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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Is there anything costume=y there (or needlework or .....)

I'll be in town in August (big Botany meeting)

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Excerpt about men's hairdressing.  Sarah is one of the servants.

...and so home, and had Sarah to comb my head clean, which I found so 
foul with powdering and other troubles, that I am resolved to try how I 
can keep my head dry without powder; and I did also in a suddaine fit 
cut off all my beard, which I had been a great while bringing up, only 
that I may with my pumice-stone do my whole face, as I now do my chin, 
and to save time, which I find a very easy way and gentile. So she also 
washed my feet in a bath of herbs, and so to bed.

All the rest of it is at 
http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1662/05/31/index.php

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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NB "Beard" in this context probably means "moustache", as full beards were not normally worn at this time.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> cvirtue+dated+1133181112.e48a2f@thibault.org 01/06/2005 13:39 >>>
Excerpt about men's hairdressing.  Sarah is one of the servants.

...and so home, and had Sarah to comb my head clean, which I found so 
foul with powdering and other troubles, that I am resolved to try how I 
can keep my head dry without powder; and I did also in a suddaine fit 
cut off all my beard, which I had been a great while bringing up, only 
that I may with my pumice-stone do my whole face, as I now do my chin, 
and to save time, which I find a very easy way and gentile. So she also 
washed my feet in a bath of herbs, and so to bed.




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  1 09:43:32 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Satin question
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Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
has always really bugged me for the supposed era
people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
before that?

This occurred to me the other day and I really haven't
delved too deeply into this yet.  I thought somebody
here might be an expert!  I'll be taking a textiles
class in the fall but I'm too impatient to wait that
long.  ;)



		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  1 09:46:47 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume musings
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 15:44:54 +0200
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Hi Julie,
There also are some curators at museums who claimes that those costumes wich 
has survived never has ben used for some reason.
I dont agree on this, but the only proof we have to rely on are the 
paintings. And for my period 1700 there also are fashion prints. You could 
imagine that a maid of a woman of fashion would be green of envy of her 
lady's outfits, and she would struggle and do as best as she could to look 
like her lady.
Some comedians, in Denmark we have a comedy play wrighter who complainted 
that it sometimes was difficult to point out wich was the servants and wich 
were the masters, this was not ment ironicly, but a true complaint.
So it tells a little about how well dressed servants would be. Street scenes 
either printed or painted also has a lot of sources to go for when it comes 
to common people.
But then again my period is far from yours and it is much easyer because 
there are so many other sources for my period.
The difference between fashion prints and real clothes in 1700 is not far 
from eachother, so fashion prints of the 18th century is quite reliable.

Bjarne

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Julie" <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 11:56 PM
Subject: [h-cost] costume musings


>I had kind of an "oh wow" moment this weekend.
>
> I was looking at costuming books (OK, they were the paper doll books) that 
> had representative costumes by decades starting with the 1920's through 
> the 1990's.  Now I lived through many of those decades and I can tell you 
> I didn't see much that looked like clothes I actually wore.
>
> So the big question is, how do we know what was really worn in whatever 
> period we're studying?  It seems that only very special items were saved 
> or items belonging to royalty (which makes them special).  So what were 
> real people doing when they weren't sitting for their portraits?  What 
> would be a place to look for what minor nobility or merchants really 
> wore/did?
>
> Julie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Kate M Bunting wrote:

> NB "Beard" in this context probably means "moustache", as full beards were not normally worn at this time.

That explains why he was already using the stone on his chin!  That one 
puzzled me.

Can I post this to the glossary for the diary online?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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Galadriel of Lothlorien wrote:

> when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
> satin, and when did it become more common?

Do you mean shiny satin as if made of silk?  Because the weave probably 
was used earlier.  (I have what I believe is some wool satin that my mom 
found in England a few years back.  It's glorious.)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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There are numerous examples of satin being referred to in the catalog
portion of Queen E's Un'L. As I recall there are also various portraits
that appear to show people wearing satin. The problem with people wearing
satin at RenFaires is that they generally choose the super-shiney acetate
version that is very light and insubstantial (cheap prom dress type
stuff). To get the Elizabethan effect with satin you need to choose
something quite heavy, like the stuff they sell for lining coats, and
with a somewhat matte appearance. I know that sounds odd- matte satin,
but there is a spectrum of shininess and to look right in period you
should avoid the super shiny stuff and go for stuff with more of a
'glow'. and of course you need to get the skirt looking full enough so
you have nice luxurious folds of softly shining satin....mmmmmmm.......I
think I feel a satin Elizabethan coming on.......


Karen
Seamstrix



On Wed, 1 Jun 2005 06:42:15 -0700 (PDT) Galadriel of Lothlorien
<galadrielfinwe@yahoo.com> writes:
> Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
> has always really bugged me for the supposed era
> people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
> when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
> satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
> the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
> before that?
> 
> This occurred to me the other day and I really haven't
> delved too deeply into this yet.  I thought somebody
> here might be an expert!  I'll be taking a textiles
> class in the fall but I'm too impatient to wait that
> long.  ;)
> 
> 
> 
>                 
> __________________________________ 
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By all means, but I think it's already mentioned in the notes.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> cvirtue+dated+1133185394.46599e@thibault.org 01/06/2005 14:51 >>>
Kate M Bunting wrote:

> NB "Beard" in this context probably means "moustache", as full beards were not normally worn at this time.

That explains why he was already using the stone on his chin!  That one 
puzzled me.

Can I post this to the glossary for the diary online?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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At 06:42 AM 6/1/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
>has always really bugged me for the supposed era
>people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
>when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
>satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
>the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
>before that?
>
>This occurred to me the other day and I really haven't
>delved too deeply into this yet.  I thought somebody
>here might be an expert!  I'll be taking a textiles
>class in the fall but I'm too impatient to wait that
>long.  ;)

"Satin" is a weave that can be done in any fiber, but is especially good 
for showing off the shine of fibers like silk and fine worsted-spun 
wool.  The weave goes back to early Chinese times in silk.  So silk satins 
are perfectly appropriate for Renaissance Faires, which are generally set 
in 16th century England.  And we have inventories and other records, 
especially wills, listing satin.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net

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Whew!
I escaped that one, handily! Lovely fabric but *wrong* color for me!
--sue

otsisto wrote:

> http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code
> =15692&Category_Code=T-d&Product_Count=6
> 
> http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code
> =16901&Category_Code=UPCHES&Product_Count=7
> 
> De


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] traveling to Austin TX
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
> Is there anything costume=y there (or needlework or .....)
> I'll be in town in August (big Botany meeting)


UT Austin has a nice textiles collection:
http://www.utexas.edu/depts/he/txa/txahistoriccollect.htm
but it's only of interest for 19th & 20th century stuff.

The museums, unfortunately, seem to be all about the modern art, except for 
the Blanton Museum at UT Austin, which is closed to the public until Feb 
2006!  Sad, because they do have a really good collection.  Since it seems 
to be open to students, though, you might be able to talk someone into being 
nice!
http://www.blantonmuseum.org/

-E House


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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 15:44:54 +0200
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume musings
To: "Historical Costume" 
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Hi Julie,
There also are some curators at museums who claimes that those costumes wich 
has survived never has ben used for some reason.
I dont agree on this, but the only proof we have to rely on are the 
paintings. And for my period 1700 there also are fashion prints. You could 
imagine that a maid of a woman of fashion would be green of envy of her 
lady's outfits, and she would struggle and do as best as she could to look 
like her lady.
Some comedians, in Denmark we have a comedy play wrighter who complainted 
that it sometimes was difficult to point out wich was the servants and wich 
were the masters, this was not ment ironicly, but a true complaint.
So it tells a little about how well dressed servants would be. Street scenes 
either printed or painted also has a lot of sources to go for when it comes 
to common people.
But then again my period is far from yours and it is much easyer because 
there are so many other sources for my period.
The difference between fashion prints and real clothes in 1700 is not far 
from eachother, so fashion prints of the 18th century is quite reliable.

Bjarne

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Julie" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 11:56 PM
Subject: [h-cost] costume musings


>I had kind of an "oh wow" moment this weekend.
>
> I was looking at costuming books (OK, they were the paper doll books) that 
> had representative costumes by decades starting with the 1920's through 
> the 1990's. Now I lived through many of those decades and I can tell you 
> I didn't see much that looked like clothes I actually wore.
>
> So the big question is, how do we know what was really worn in whatever 
> period we're studying? It seems that only very special items were saved 
> or items belonging to royalty (which makes them special). So what were 
> real people doing when they weren't sitting for their portraits? What 
> would be a place to look for what minor nobility or merchants really 
> wore/did?
>
> Julie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
Hey Bjarne, good to have you back.

The people on the street would probably have been greener than the ladies maid.  The Maid would have probably gotten some of the out of style, or unwanted dresses, especially of the very highest ladies of fashion.  Although I have not seen documents, the 18c womans list has discussed hand-me downs and the second hand trade.  To me, Any ladies maid worth her pay would have been able to re-work some of these second hand garments into something very fashionable.

Dappert in Charlotte, NC - the 18c centuries 2nd worst servant.  Wishing she knew more about the life of a ladies maid, since she frequently portrays one at reenactment in The Am Rev War South


		
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Quoting E House <formfunc@formfunction.org>:

> The museums, unfortunately, seem to be all about the modern art, except for
> the Blanton Museum at UT Austin, which is closed to the public until Feb
> 2006!  Sad, because they do have a really good collection.  Since it seems
> to be open to students, though, you might be able to talk someone into being
> nice!
> http://www.blantonmuseum.org/

The Harry Ransom Center http://www.hrc.utexas.edu/, also at UT Austin, isn't
really about modern art, but rather about modern (after the printing press)
media.  Their collection includes one of the Scarlett O'hara dresses from Gone
with the Wind, but from what's on their site, I don't think that piece is on
exhibit right now.  There may be nifty costume pictures in some of the print
collections that are on exhibit.  Wouldn't hurt to email them and ask them if
they have anything of interest to a costume historian that you could see while
you're in town.  

- Ynes/Lisa


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This reminds me...
What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

The only costumes which survive are those that are from small people.  They couldn't be handed down because they were already too small. (what about children?)

People were smaller then.  Just look at all the small uniforms that have been recovered, small armor, etc.  (what about some of the 6 foot plus skeletons, etc...Abe Lincoln)  So were they mostly smaller?  Sure seems to be so in current times.  Children are often taller than their parents and grandparents.  Is it diet?  Is it genes?

Julie

----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:

> There also are some curators at museums who claimes that those costumes wich 
> has survived never has ben used for some reason.
> I dont agree on this, but the only proof we have to rely on are the 
> paintings. 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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>Children are often taller than their parents and grandparents.  Is it 
>diet?  Is it genes?

It is a statistical fact that the first US-born generation of children of 
Oriental immigrants to this country are larger than their parents.  It's 
probably diet, like from all that meat Americans typically eat.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Satin question
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 14:05:46 -0500
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Satin is a weave. The "satin" used today at Ren fests. are not pre 1600s
unless it is made of wool or silk. (I have heard rumors to the effect of
linen satin but....)
Best thing to do is feel sorry for those in the Acetate/Nylon/polysomething
satin dress as they will be miserable on those looonnnggg hot days.

De

-----Original Message-----
Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
has always really bugged me for the supposed era
people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
before that?

This occurred to me the other day and I really haven't
delved too deeply into this yet.  I thought somebody
here might be an expert!  I'll be taking a textiles
class in the fall but I'm too impatient to wait that
long.  ;)


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>Children are often taller than their parents and grandparents. Is it 
>diet? Is it genes?

It is a statistical fact that the first US-born generation of children of 
Oriental immigrants to this country are larger than their parents. It's 
probably diet, like from all that meat Americans typically eat.

Increased fat and protein, same thing happened when McDonalds hit Japan....

		
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Costuming myths? Let's see....

"Women's shirts button the opposite way from men's because women were being dressed by maids." (In previous discussions on this list, we've established that the correlation between buttoning direction and maid service appears nonexistent; instead, it seems to have been a decision, and not always a consistent one, by early ready-to-wear garment manufacturers IIRC.)

"White wedding dresses are an ancient tradition." (Only if you define "ancient" as "Victorian"...)

"Pink is a color that was impossible to produce in the Middle Ages." (That one's simply false...)

"Only kings and queens could wear purple." (Demonstrably not true, but because it's a convention at many Renaissance Faires, a lot of people believe it.)

"There were no buttons or buttonholes in the Middle Ages." (Demonstrably not true.)

"Peasants not only sewed, but spun and wove all their own clothing." (Demonstrably not true for most times and places; cloth and second-hand clothing seem to have been available and more or less affordable over much of Europe.)

"Blackwork embroidery was always reversible."

"Built-in pockets in clothing are a modern invention."

Then there are the more pervasive myths that are seldom articulated, such as the assumption that in all times and places clothing is decorated with embroidery..... or that fitted bodices frequently expose the entire bosom.... or that folk clothing is exactly like medieval clothing....

And that's not even getting INTO the debateable ones! <g>

BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!

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At 11:38 AM 6/1/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>This reminds me...
>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?
>
>The only costumes which survive are those that are from small 
>people.  They couldn't be handed down because they were already too small. 
>(what about children?)
>
>People were smaller then.  Just look at all the small uniforms that have 
>been recovered, small armor, etc.  (what about some of the 6 foot plus 
>skeletons, etc...Abe Lincoln)  So were they mostly smaller?  Sure seems to 
>be so in current times.  Children are often taller than their parents and 
>grandparents.  Is it diet?  Is it genes?
>
>Julie

"They" didn't have metal buttons (overheard from visitors to Ren. Faire).

Joan

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"The little bow on your bra is a holdover from corset lacing. "

I went looking for this one, and found out that comment comes out of 
Winter & Savoy's "Elizabethan Costuming".

A little more looking and I found that brassieres and corsets evolved 
concurrently through the end of the 19th century. The corset slid down 
and turned into more of what we now think of as a control-top garter. 
I've seen vintage ads for "bra and corset" sets. The bra was always a 
separate garment, supported by straps, where the corset, when it 
supported the bust, relied on boning that pushed up from the torso.

Anyway. If your bra has a bow on it, it's because the Edwardians put 
bows on everything, and the lingerie industry has continued the 
tradition of frilly female underthings.



Dawn

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
<snip>
> Anyway. If your bra has a bow on it, it's because the Edwardians put bows 
> on everything, and the lingerie industry has continued the tradition of 
> frilly female underthings.

Yup.  If it's a holdover from anything corset related, it's a holdover from 
the corset _cover_, which often had a ribbon at the neckline.

-E the endlessly fascinated by Edwardian underthings. 

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This has been fun.  I'd love to hear more.
----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:

> 
> >Children are often taller than their parents and grandparents. Is it 
> >diet? Is it genes?
> 
> It is a statistical fact that the first US-born generation of children of 
> Oriental immigrants to this country are larger than their parents. It's 
> probably diet, like from all that meat Americans typically eat.

**Funny you should mention Orientals...hubby's heritage is Japanese.  His grandfather was about 5' 2" or 3", his father was about 5' 8", hubby is 5' 11" and our son is 6' 2".
 
> Increased fat and protein, same thing happened when McDonalds hit Japan....

**Wow.  I hadn't heard that.  So the Japanese, still in Japan are taller?
 
> I have a book on the early days of New Orleans where, in 1735 a
> commander of the French fort complains about the troops that have been
> sent to him are practically dwarves: "There are but one or two men among
> them whose size is above five feet, and as to the rest, they are under
> four feet ten inches." 

**That's tiny for adult males.  Where were they born?  France?
  
> 
> As for Abe Lincoln, he grew up in the new world, where food was much
> more plentiful, and his family was reasonably well-off. 

**I thought he "wasn't" reasonably well-off...the log cabin thing and all that?  Is that another myth?
 
> That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
> aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
> wearing crowd?

**Amen to that.  I'm plus size by today's standards - both height and weight.  We joke about going back in time but I think folks back then wouldn't have known what to make of the lady giant in their midst <G>. 
> 
> 
> I also heard (about 5 years ago) of a study that showed that there was a 
> higher percentage of weddings in taller males than in shorter ones. From 
> what I recall, they didn't push the study far enough to state that this had an influence on gene transmittal.

**Interesting.  I vaguely recall something like that too.
 
> Costuming myths? Let's see....
> 
> "Women's shirts button the opposite way from men's because women were being dressed by maids." (In previous discussions on this list, we've established that the correlation between buttoning direction and maid service appears nonexistent; instead, it seems to have been a decision, and not always a consistent one, by early ready-to-wear garment manufacturers IIRC.)

**Ulp - I thought it was something about keeping the sword arm free.  Another myth?
> 
> "White wedding dresses are an ancient tradition." (Only if you define "ancient" as "Victorian"...)
> 
> "Pink is a color that was impossible to produce in the Middle Ages." (That one's simply false...)
**I can get screaming fushia with cochenile.  Not sure how red kermes would be.  Madder also gave/gives red.
 
> "Only kings and queens could wear purple." (Demonstrably not true, but because it's a convention at many Renaissance Faires, a lot of people believe it.)
> 
**I did for a while.  That one ticks me off.  Purple is my favorite color so I use it a lot.  Have to be careful when I'm doing a faire.

> "There were no buttons or buttonholes in the Middle Ages." (Demonstrably not true.)

**Hadn't heard that one - so easily disproved.

> "Peasants not only sewed, but spun and wove all their own clothing." (Demonstrably not true for most times and places; cloth and second-hand clothing seem to have been available and more or less affordable over much of Europe.)

**Interesting.  Are we thinking colonial and frontier U.S. instead of Europe?  I'm hearing this one regularly, and sometimes from arts judges.  I'd love to hear more about inexpensive cloth in period where the ladies of the house would buy their fabric to make their clothes.
 
> "Blackwork embroidery was always reversible."
**Not from anyone who's tried to do it ;-)
 
> "Built-in pockets in clothing are a modern invention."
**Oops - ignorance alert here.  I've been going along with that one.  Colonial U.S. had separate "pockets" like a belt pouch.  Please, pretty please show me documentation of pockets in period.  I'd love to show to our judges when I make something with pockets.  I've would have claimed it as a creative touch or modern substitution.
 
>or that folk clothing is exactly like medieval clothing....
**no, but I've been amazed looking at modern church vestments how much they look like the ancient ones.  The new pope brought that one to mind.
 
> And that's not even getting INTO the debateable ones! <g>

**Please do.  This has been fun and informative.

> BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!

**Hey, this one at least makes sense.  A small warm body in a pocket would be warmer than just a pocket.  Course, the warm poo in the pocket would be a down side ;-)  (Don't ask about my pet rats...) 
Any truth to small dogs traveling with their mistresses under their hoops?
> ____________________________________________________________
> 0  Chris Laning
** Julie Tamura

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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Galadriel of Lothlorien wrote:

>Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
>has always really bugged me for the supposed era
>people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
>when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
>satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
>the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
>before that?
>
>This occurred to me the other day and I really haven't
>delved too deeply into this yet.  I thought somebody
>here might be an expert!  I'll be taking a textiles
>class in the fall but I'm too impatient to wait that
>long.  ;)
>
>  
>
Definitely in use in the 16th century.  I think there are some examples 
in Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 09:46:53 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Chris Laning wrote:

>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!
>  
>

I haven't heard that one before, but the mental images it produces are 
_hilarious_.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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There are examples of satin weaves used in 16th century clothing....I've 
even seen an extant bit of cut-and-voided velvet (16th c.) that had a 
background of satin weave, which really made the velvet pile stand out 
in contrast.
--sue

Galadriel of Lothlorien wrote:

> Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
> has always really bugged me for the supposed era
> people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
> when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
> satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
> the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
> before that?
> 
> This occurred to me the other day and I really haven't
> delved too deeply into this yet.  I thought somebody
> here might be an expert!  I'll be taking a textiles
> class in the fall but I'm too impatient to wait that
> long.  ;)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
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In a message dated 6/1/2005 9:52:01 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cvirtue+dated+1133185394.46599e@thibault.org writes:

NB  "Beard" in this context probably means "moustache", as full beards were 
not  normally worn at this time.



No, I think "beard" means all facial hair.  Pepys was a proponent of  
self-shaving.  After trying the stone, he later switched to a razor.   A later entry, 
"without being shaved I am not fully awake nor ready to settle to  business."
 
While full face beards as we know them were not in fashion, yet it does not  
appear that every man shaved every single day.  I can't find the exact  
reference right now, but when researching shaving a couple of years ago, I came  
across a quote that Oxford students were expected to be clean-shaven, but would  
only be fined if they didn't shave at least every 2 weeks!  Pepys himself  
evidently waited a week once, writing, "Lord! How ugly I was yesterday and how  
fine today."
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 10:17:20 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] traveling to Austin TX
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
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Ya know, when I went to Paris France I expected it to be full of
museums of art and such. NOT. They are all private and closed to the
public. Austin out numbers Paris 5 fold when it comes of museums of
art. I would do a search for them on google for the exact addresses.
The one I love most is off MOPAC and 32nd street (I think that is
the right street, it is the one that runs by the military base).
They have white peacocks that stroll the yard....

The Harry Ransom Center at UT is incredible. The UGL on the same
campus holds the costumes from Gone With the Wind and if you can ...
get into the basement of the Textiles building. That is the mecca of
costumes from all eras that get donated to the University for one
reason or another. Many are not in great condition so they get used
by the grad students for study on pattern and technique.

That is all I can think of off the top of my head and that info is
about 13 years old. I no longer live there but in Dallas.

Chiara

On Wed, June 1, 2005 6:08 am, Susan B. Farmer said:
> Is there anything costume=y there (or needlework or .....)
>
> I'll be in town in August (big Botany meeting)
>
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
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Franchesca Havas
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ooooooooo .... that almost looks like pink ... hmmmmmm mine? ;)


On Tue, May 31, 2005 11:49 pm, otsisto said:
> http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code
> =15692&Category_Code=T-d&Product_Count=6
>
> http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code
> =16901&Category_Code=UPCHES&Product_Count=7
>
> De
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Franchesca Havas
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In a message dated 6/1/2005 8:01:56 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
penhalion@juno.com writes:
satin at RenFaires is that they generally choose the super-shiney acetate
version that is very light and insubstantial (cheap prom dress type
stuff). To get the Elizabethan effect with satin you need to choose
something quite heavy, like the stuff they sell for lining coats, and
with a somewhat matte appearance
Plus, the less shine, the better quality the satin because the float is 
shorter.  Ever notice how fast the shiny stuff unravels?  Less threads 
intersecting.  Peau de soie would be an example of the good stuff.  Luster rather than 
shine, or what is called "bridal satin", though it tends to be synthetic.  For 
the cheap stuff, think Halloween.  Cheryl
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It's mostly diet. I don't have the stats at hand, but diet plays a huge
role in how tall a person will get. Genes dictate the range of height
that a person might grow to. Diet dictates where on that range you will
end up. Even a person with very tall parents, if he suffers persistent
malnutrition in childhood, will be noticeably stunted. 

I have a book on the early days of New Orleans where, in 1735 a
commander of the French fort complains about the troops that have been
sent to him are practically dwarves: "There are but one or two men among
them whose size is above five feet, and as to the rest, they are under
four feet ten inches." 

He goes on to complain at length about the larcenous nature of the new
troops. These guys were probably born in poverty and went hungry a lot
as kids. 

As for Abe Lincoln, he grew up in the new world, where food was much
more plentiful, and his family was reasonably well-off. 

That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
wearing crowd?


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Julie
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 2:38 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)

This reminds me...
What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal
with?

The only costumes which survive are those that are from small people.
They couldn't be handed down because they were already too small. (what
about children?)

People were smaller then.  Just look at all the small uniforms that have
been recovered, small armor, etc.  (what about some of the 6 foot plus
skeletons, etc...Abe Lincoln)  So were they mostly smaller?  Sure seems
to be so in current times.  Children are often taller than their parents
and grandparents.  Is it diet?  Is it genes?

Julie

----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:

> There also are some curators at museums who claimes that those
costumes wich 
> has survived never has ben used for some reason.
> I dont agree on this, but the only proof we have to rely on are the 
> paintings. 

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> It is a statistical fact that the first US-born generation of children of
> Oriental immigrants to this country are larger than their parents. It's
> probably diet, like from all that meat Americans typically eat.
>
> Increased fat and protein, same thing happened when McDonalds hit 
> Japan....

I also heard (about 5 years ago) of a study that showed that there was a 
higher percentage of weddings in taller males than in shorter ones. From 
what I recall, they didn't push the study far enough to state that this had 
an influence on gene transmittal.

I don't know if the study was any good or if the results were verified. But 
it's enough to say that it *might* also have something to do with genetics. 
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Penny Roberts wrote:

> It is a statistical fact that the first US-born generation of children of 
> Oriental immigrants to this country are larger than their parents. It's 
> probably diet, like from all that meat Americans typically eat.

No argument to this data point, it's just that it can't be extrapolated 
backwards more than a few decades.

Measurements of bones or other records don't show much difference 
between a medieval European and a modern one.

I know there's a bunch of data in the archives about this.  If anyone 
has trouble finding it, pipe up and we can all go archive-mining together.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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Joan commented:

>So silk satins 
>are perfectly appropriate for Renaissance Faires, which are generally set 
>in 16th century England.  And we have inventories and other records, 
>especially wills, listing satin.

True: but _silk_ satin is expensive and hard to find, and modern synthetic satins tend to be too lightweight, too slithery, and far too shiny to look like their period equivalents. Not to mention the fact that they generally don't "breathe" and so are rather uncomfortable to wear to summer events (like renfaires).

I've seen the wrong side of a heavier than usual synthetic satin used in small amounts with some success, though. And apparently if you can find somethng called "peau de soie", which isn't nearly as brilliantly shiny as ordinary satin, that's a better match for the look of period satin. Although as Joan will tell you, it snags very easily, right Joan? If I remember correctly, you had a panel of it on one of your gowns that barely lasted the season...

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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<<<<"Only kings and queens could wear purple." (Demonstrably not true, but
because it's a convention at many Renaissance Faires, a lot of people
believe it.)>>>>>>

Hmmmm. I've got this lovely simple patterned purple material...hmmmm. I be
going in Sept to a RenFest....hmmmm. Do I want to disturb the bovine fecal
matter? :)

De



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Satin Question
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Yes, I know Satin is a weave!  :)  And yes, the Orient
had satins wayyy back when... I should have been more
specific in my question.  I was thinking
narrow-mindedly of western culture.  Teehee.  Thanks
for the responses, though.  It looks like it will
definitely require some more research.  That's
interesting about it being in wills!  I never would
have thought to look there.  I'll bet there's all
sorts of interesting things to learn from wills!


> There are examples of satin weaves used in 16th
> century clothing....I've 
> even seen an extant bit of cut-and-voided velvet
> (16th c.) that had a 
> background of satin weave, which really made the
> velvet pile stand out 
> in contrast.
> --sue


That sounds absolutely breathtaking!  Hm, I may want
to "steal" that idea (or "re-create"... right?  wink
wink).



"Is there any hope, Gandalf? . . . For Frodo and Sam?"
"There never was much hope.  Just a fool's hope."

--Pippin and Gandalf, RETURN OF THE KING


		
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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 10:01:34 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Julie wrote:

>>Increased fat and protein, same thing happened when McDonalds hit Japan....
>>    
>>
>
>**Wow.  I hadn't heard that.  So the Japanese, still in Japan are taller?
>  
>

Young Japanese people are often _much_ taller than their parent-- but I 
think directly attributing that to McDonalds is rubbish.


> <>
>
>>As for Abe Lincoln, he grew up in the new world, where food was much
>>more plentiful, and his family was reasonably well-off. 
>>    
>>
>
>**I thought he "wasn't" reasonably well-off...the log cabin thing and all that?  Is that another myth?
>  
>

For one thing, the diet of the lower classes in America was probably 
better than that of the lower classes in Europe. 
For another, one datum does not a statistic make.


>>That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
>>aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
>>wearing crowd?
>>    
>>

I don't know-- I do notice that about gloves, but then, my perusal of 
old catalogues from Canada indicates that the shoe size range available 
is generally similar to what you'd get in modern shops. (UK 3-8 = 
roughly US 5-10/11) and that the most common size range for corsets was 
18-30 inch waist (ie fitting up to about a 34-35" waist when you take 
into account the fact that many women's corsets had a 2-3" gap when 
worn)  Maybe it's just that kid leather is prone to shrinkage?


>>Costuming myths? Let's see....
>>
>>"Women's shirts button the opposite way from men's because women were being dressed by maids." (In previous discussions on this list, we've established that the correlation between buttoning direction and maid service appears nonexistent; instead, it seems to have been a decision, and not always a consistent one, by early ready-to-wear garment manufacturers IIRC.)
>>    
>>
>
>**Ulp - I thought it was something about keeping the sword arm free.  Another myth?
>  
>
I think nearly anything that posits a relationship between weapons use 
and ordinary clothes can be dismissed.



>>"Peasants not only sewed, but spun and wove all their own clothing." (Demonstrably not true for most times and places; cloth and second-hand clothing seem to have been available and more or less affordable over much of Europe.)
>>    
>>
>
>**Interesting.  Are we thinking colonial and frontier U.S. instead of Europe?  I'm hearing this one regularly, and sometimes from arts judges.  I'd love to hear more about inexpensive cloth in period where the ladies of the house would buy their fabric to make their clothes.
>  
>

A loom would actually have been a _huge_ investment-- and as such, cloth 
was woven by professionals.


>>"Built-in pockets in clothing are a modern invention."
>>    
>>
>**Oops - ignorance alert here.  I've been going along with that one.  Colonial U.S. had separate "pockets" like a belt pouch.  Please, pretty please show me documentation of pockets in period.  I'd love to show to our judges when I make something with pockets.  I've would have claimed it as a creative touch or modern substitution.
>  
>

I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a picture of a pair of 
Venetians with a pocket set into the side seam. This is _not_ to say 
that pockets on seperate bands didn't stay popular for at least another 
300 years.



-- 
Adele de Maisieres

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>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original 
>of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for 
>warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with 
>them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the 
>mental images this produces are hilarious!

The closest I have heard to that is that small dogs, besides being amusing, 
were warmer than people-body-temperature.  And Eskimos do sleep next to 
dogs on cold nights (or is it the dogs choosing to sleep next to the people?).


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>This reminds me...
>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

"18-inch waists were common."  Someone pointed out to me that the average 
head is something like 22 inches around.  So if the photograph shows the 
head larger than the waist, we're not looking at a photo of any 18-inch 
waist.  And pre-PhotoShop photo re-touching is pretty obvious in most cases.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Althea Turner" <althea@alfalfapress.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 16:01:38 -0500
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On Wed, 1 Jun 2005 12:23:49 -0700 (GMT-07:00), Chris Laning wrote
>> BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the 
> original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I 
> saw it: that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small 
> furry animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their 
> clothing.... for me at least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!
> 

Why am I hearing in my head strains of the song, "When the squirrel went 
berzerk in the First Selfrighteous church in the sleepy little town of 
Tuskagoula"

:D

Obligatory costume content - I have a chunk 2' x 2' of soft white leather and 
am not sure what to use it for.  I've thought gloves, but am not sure of my 
ability after one class.  Any suggestions for something 16th C Venice or 6th 
C Francia?

Althea

***
Directory of Diverse Knowledge
http://www.alfalfapress.com/sca

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Wed, 1 Jun 2005, Dawn wrote:

> "The little bow on your bra is a holdover from corset lacing. "
> ...
> Anyway. If your bra has a bow on it, it's because the Edwardians put 
> bows on everything, and the lingerie industry has continued the 
> tradition of frilly female underthings.

But in a nice example of like-things-recurring over time: The busk on an
Elizabethan corset can be secured at the top by a small lace or point or
ribbon put through the corset, which (when tied) produces a little bow at
the same point we're accustomed to seeing bra bows.

And if that's not enough: I don't have a source for this, but I've heard
others comment on Elizabethan-era references to the giving of one's
busk-lace as an intimate gift from a woman to a man (perhaps suggesting
that once the lace is undone, the busk can be removed...). And it seems
that within the last few decades, there has been a custom among teenage
girls to clip off their bra bows to give to their boyfriends.

I'd love to have a source on the giving of busk-strings, just because the
parallel is so cute.

--Robin


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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Karen R Bergquist wrote:

>To get the Elizabethan effect with satin you need to choose
>something quite heavy, like the stuff they sell for lining coats, and
>with a somewhat matte appearance. I know that sounds odd- matte satin,
>but there is a spectrum of shininess and to look right in period you
>should avoid the super shiny stuff and go for stuff with more of a
>'glow'. and of course you need to get the skirt looking full enough so
>you have nice luxurious folds of softly shining satin....mmmmmmm.......I
>think I feel a satin Elizabethan coming on.......
>

I think the "good stuff" is sold as Duchesse or delustred satin.  It's 
fairly heavyweight, and popular for wedding gowns and the like. 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Julie wrote:

>People were smaller then.  Just look at all the small uniforms that have been recovered, small armor, etc.  (what about some of the 6 foot plus skeletons, etc...Abe Lincoln)  So were they mostly smaller?  Sure seems to be so in current times.  Children are often taller than their parents and grandparents.  Is it diet?  Is it genes?
>  
>

It depends what you mean.  It's probably safest to say that the heights 
of _lower_class people have increased a good deal, but those of upper 
class people by much less.  A friend of mine is interested in 19th 
century militaria and says that many of the jackets he's found have been 
too small for him-- and he's only 5'7" and slim. Heights are determined 
by a combination of genetics and diet.  And a single example doesn't 
prove anything about averages-- Lincoln was considered a tall man while 
he was alive.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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> That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
> aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
> wearing crowd?


I've read in several places that earlier women (Regency, I think) deliberately wore gloves too small for them in order to make their hands look daintier -- thus, the references to the women "working their hands into" their gloves.  It would make sense to me that that aesthetic would have continued into the Victorian period.  I believe I've also read that about shoes -- have mercy!  I can't even imagine the discomfort, if that's true, as the clothes themselves look hot and confining enough without extra torture!  I live in an un-air-condititioned Victorian in KS, and I've always joked that I'd have had to be a prostitute, just so I could take my clothes off during the day...

KP

 


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Kate M Bunting wrote:

> By all means, but I think it's already mentioned in the notes.

Oh! Right you are.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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I have heard that one a few times. Mostly associated with "Italian". So
called docs. used for it was the portraits with the little dogs in them.
I guess those little critters escaped from the pockets while the portraits
were being painted. :)

De

-----Original Message-----
Chris Laning wrote:

>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original
of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for
warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with
them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the
mental images this produces are hilarious!
>


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There's a corset in the Williamsburg collection measuring around 30 inches.

Laura


>This reminds me...
>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

"18-inch waists were common."  Someone pointed out to me that the average 
head is something like 22 inches around.  So if the photograph shows the 
head larger than the waist, we're not looking at a photo of any 18-inch 
waist.  And pre-PhotoShop photo re-touching is pretty obvious in most cases.


-- 
"If you can't feed a hundred people then just feed one." Mother Theresa -- 
www.thehungersite.com 





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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Althea Turner wrote:

>Obligatory costume content - I have a chunk 2' x 2' of soft white leather and 
>am not sure what to use it for.  I've thought gloves, but am not sure of my 
>ability after one class.  Any suggestions for something 16th C Venice or 6th 
>C Francia?
>
>  
>

I _would_ go for glowes.  But if you're not sure of your ability, fold 
it up nicely and put it away until you've made a pair out of something 
less fancy.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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On 6/1/05, Sandra Olsen <sandraleigh@abraxis.com> wrote:
         <snip>
> As for Abe Lincoln, he grew up in the new world, where food was much
> more plentiful, and his family was reasonably well-off. 

Abe Lincoln is a bad example as he had a genetic condition. One year
on his birthday the local newspaper compared his height to that of
modern basketball players (this was a few years ago) and he was either
as tall as the tallest or they could have have the rare pleasure of
actually asking someone "How's the weather up there?" as he was just a
little taller.

I seem to remember a photo of him in a crowd and everyone can up to
about his waist. Or was that a first hand description?

Does this ring a bell for anyone?


> 
> That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
> aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
> wearing crowd?
> 

I think that I've read (in that famous 'somewhere') that small hands
were prized so a woman would wear gloves that were as small as
possible -- even if it made her hands look like stuffed sausages
because they were so tight.

Onaree

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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 10:17:44 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Robin Netherton wrote:

>And if that's not enough: I don't have a source for this, but I've heard
>others comment on Elizabethan-era references to the giving of one's
>busk-lace as an intimate gift from a woman to a man (perhaps suggesting
>that once the lace is undone, the busk can be removed...). And it seems
>that within the last few decades, there has been a custom among teenage
>girls to clip off their bra bows to give to their boyfriends.
>  
>

Actually, the busk itself could be a gift from a sweetheart.  There's a 
surviving example with the words "Think of me when this you see" carved 
on it.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 15:28:51 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Wearing purple, was RE: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for
  fun...)
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At 02:32 PM 6/1/2005 -0500, you wrote:
><<<<"Only kings and queens could wear purple." (Demonstrably not true, but
>because it's a convention at many Renaissance Faires, a lot of people
>believe it.)>>>>>>
>
>Hmmmm. I've got this lovely simple patterned purple material...hmmmm. I be
>going in Sept to a RenFest....hmmmm. Do I want to disturb the bovine fecal
>matter? :)
>
>De

If you are a ticket-buying visitor, wear whatever you want <g>.  Only those 
who actually work the Faires are covered by such conventions (and they 
differ from fair to fair).

Joan

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  1 18:31:33 2005
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Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 15:30:49 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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At 12:29 PM 6/1/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Joan commented:
>
> >So silk satins
> >are perfectly appropriate for Renaissance Faires, which are generally set
> >in 16th century England.  And we have inventories and other records,
> >especially wills, listing satin.
>
>True: but _silk_ satin is expensive and hard to find, and modern synthetic 
>satins tend to be too lightweight, too slithery, and far too shiny to look 
>like their period equivalents. Not to mention the fact that they generally 
>don't "breathe" and so are rather uncomfortable to wear to summer events 
>(like renfaires).
>
>I've seen the wrong side of a heavier than usual synthetic satin used in 
>small amounts with some success, though. And apparently if you can find 
>somethng called "peau de soie", which isn't nearly as brilliantly shiny as 
>ordinary satin, that's a better match for the look of period satin. 
>Although as Joan will tell you, it snags very easily, right Joan? If I 
>remember correctly, you had a panel of it on one of your gowns that barely 
>lasted the season...
>
>____________________________________________________________
>0  Chris Laning
>|  <claning@igc.org>
>+  Davis, California
>____________________________________________________________

Yep. I did a kirtle and gown combination, with the kirtle front in the 
satin.  Snagged if you looked at it cross-wise.  But it would be fine if 
used in an indoors situation.

Joan

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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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I just wanted to add 2 cents on these 2 topics...   About the cloth... I suspect that the time period (and probably place) would matter a lot... I've been studying Viking era Danelaw/Greenland/Iceland and medieval Greenland and it appears that many, if not all, homes had a loom, though it was a hanging, weighted loom not a floor loom.  Once the floor looms came into vogue weaving became more specialized and the looms more complex and thus more expensive.  Also, woven cloth was used as a currency for trade and payment of services, so cloth was not just made at home even then.
As to the pockets issue... I can say that in the book "Woven into the Earth" there are pictures of actual 12-13th century gowns with side pockets... some in the gore seam and some in the side seam.  The author felt that much of the style on Greenland followed the style of Europe, so I hope that helps with the documentation!   Gytha

Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:
snippets:


>>"Peasants not only sewed, but spun and wove all their own clothing." (Demonstrably not true for most times and places; cloth and second-hand clothing seem to have been available and more or less affordable over much of Europe.)
>> 
>>
>
>**Interesting. Are we thinking colonial and frontier U.S. instead of Europe? I'm hearing this one regularly, and sometimes from arts judges. I'd love to hear more about inexpensive cloth in period where the ladies of the house would buy their fabric to make their clothes.
> 
>

A loom would actually have been a _huge_ investment-- and as such, cloth 
was woven by professionals.


>>"Built-in pockets in clothing are a modern invention."
>> 
>>
>**Oops - ignorance alert here. I've been going along with that one. Colonial U.S. had separate "pockets" like a belt pouch. Please, pretty please show me documentation of pockets in period. I'd love to show to our judges when I make something with pockets. I've would have claimed it as a creative touch or modern substitution.
> 
>

I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a picture of a pair of 
Venetians with a pocket set into the side seam. This is _not_ to say 
that pockets on seperate bands didn't stay popular for at least another 
300 years.



-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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I just wanted to add 2 cents on these 2 topics...   About the cloth... I suspect that the time period (and probably place) would matter a lot... I've been studying Viking era Danelaw/Greenland/Iceland and medieval Greenland and it appears that many, if not all, homes had a loom, though it was a hanging, weighted loom not a floor loom.  Once the floor looms came into vogue weaving became more specialized and the looms more complex and thus more expensive.  Also, woven cloth was used as a currency for trade and payment of services, so cloth was not just made at home even then.
As to the pockets issue... I can say that in the book "Woven into the Earth" there are pictures of actual 12-13th century gowns with side pockets... some in the gore seam and some in the side seam.  The author felt that much of the style on Greenland followed the style of Europe, so I hope that helps with the documentation!   Gytha

Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:
snippets:


>>"Peasants not only sewed, but spun and wove all their own clothing." (Demonstrably not true for most times and places; cloth and second-hand clothing seem to have been available and more or less affordable over much of Europe.)
>> 
>>
>
>**Interesting. Are we thinking colonial and frontier U.S. instead of Europe? I'm hearing this one regularly, and sometimes from arts judges. I'd love to hear more about inexpensive cloth in period where the ladies of the house would buy their fabric to make their clothes.
> 
>

A loom would actually have been a _huge_ investment-- and as such, cloth 
was woven by professionals.


>>"Built-in pockets in clothing are a modern invention."
>> 
>>
>**Oops - ignorance alert here. I've been going along with that one. Colonial U.S. had separate "pockets" like a belt pouch. Please, pretty please show me documentation of pockets in period. I'd love to show to our judges when I make something with pockets. I've would have claimed it as a creative touch or modern substitution.
> 
>

I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a picture of a pair of 
Venetians with a pocket set into the side seam. This is _not_ to say 
that pockets on seperate bands didn't stay popular for at least another 
300 years.



-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:

>I just wanted to add 2 cents on these 2 topics...   About the cloth... I suspect that the time period (and probably place) would matter a lot... I've been studying Viking era Danelaw/Greenland/Iceland and medieval Greenland and it appears that many, if not all, homes had a loom, though it was a hanging, weighted loom not a floor loom.  Once the floor looms came into vogue weaving became more specialized and the looms more complex and thus more expensive.  Also, woven cloth was used as a currency for trade and payment of services, so cloth was not just made at home even then.
>  
>

Fair cop... I admit I was thinking primarily of 14th-15th century cloth 
production-- which was mostly professional.

>As to the pockets issue... I can say that in the book "Woven into the Earth" there are pictures of actual 12-13th century gowns with side pockets... some in the gore seam and some in the side seam.  The author felt that much of the style on Greenland followed the style of Europe, so I hope that helps with the documentation!  
>  
>
Excellent-- I must have a look at that book.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
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----------------------------- 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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> "18-inch waists were common."  Someone pointed out to me that the average 
> head is something like 22 inches around.  So if the photograph shows the 
> head larger than the waist, we're not looking at a photo of any 18-inch 
> waist.  And pre-PhotoShop photo re-touching is pretty obvious in most 
> cases.

And from what I heard, a lot of photos were retouched.

Not to say that 22 inch waists didn't exist... but people tend to assume 
that EVERYONE tight-laced, which is far from the truth... 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths , esp small dogs
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Re: small dogs for warmth

Dogs have an average body heat of 101F to 102.5F- that's 3-4 degrees warmer 
than a human.  Also, with their fur coats and inability to sweat anywhere 
except their pads, they do a much better job of conserving body heat than us 
humans.
I used to love watching my mother kick the dog (a warlock Doberman) out of 
his spot by the stove.  She'd lie down on it, wrapped in a blanket, and he'd 
come and lie down along her back.  (Stretched out, he was longer than she 
was.)  They'd do tea and PF Milano's and TV together.
                 -Helen/Aidan

 

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I wrote:
>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!

Adele wrote:
>I haven't heard that one before, but the mental images it produces are 
>_hilarious_.

I just keep picturing two or three little beasts the size of hamsters, playing hide and seek.... running races, in one sleeve, out the other..... playing "king of the castle" on top of the headdress..... <g>

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Chris Laning wrote:

>I wrote:
>  
>
>>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!
>>    
>>
>
>Adele wrote:
>  
>
>>I haven't heard that one before, but the mental images it produces are 
>>_hilarious_.
>>    
>>
>
>I just keep picturing two or three little beasts the size of hamsters, playing hide and seek.... running races, in one sleeve, out the other..... playing "king of the castle" on top of the headdress..... <g>
>  
>

Yup... also, some sort of mustelid shooting out of a sleeve and into a 
pocket opening, across the inside of the skirt...

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
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----------------------------- 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: busk lace (was Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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>>And if that's not enough: I don't have a source for this, but I've heard
>>others comment on Elizabethan-era references to the giving of one's
>>busk-lace as an intimate gift from a woman to a man (perhaps suggesting
>>that once the lace is undone, the busk can be removed...).

I heard that about the drawstring from trousers, as an intimate gift in the 
Middle East.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: glove leather (was Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for
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>>Obligatory costume content - I have a chunk 2' x 2' of soft white leather 
>>and am not sure what to use it for.  I've thought gloves, but am not sure 
>>of my ability after one class.  Any suggestions for something 16th C 
>>Venice or 6th C Francia?

>>I _would_ go for glowes.  But if you're not sure of your ability, fold it 
>>up nicely and put it away until you've made a pair out of something less fancy.

Roll it, instead of folding it.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
there?  (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
have been head lice.)  I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then).  I later heard the same 
story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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>Maybe it's just that kid leather is prone to shrinkage?

The stitching doesn't shrink, so that can't be it.  Probably it's because 
"back then" smaller people, i.e. children, commonly wore gloves.  My guess 
is that we're seeing children's gloves, or at least adult style gloves worn 
by teens and pre-teens.


>I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a picture of a pair of 
>Venetians with a pocket set into the side seam. This is _not_ to say that 
>pockets on seperate bands didn't stay popular for at least another 300 years.

One of the doublets of the Sture family has a pocket under a waist-skirt part.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: busk lace (was Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>
>>> And if that's not enough: I don't have a source for this, but I've 
>>> heard
>>> others comment on Elizabethan-era references to the giving of one's
>>> busk-lace as an intimate gift from a woman to a man (perhaps suggesting
>>> that once the lace is undone, the busk can be removed...).
>>
>
> I heard that about the drawstring from trousers, as an intimate gift 
> in the Middle East.

I think I've heard that one too... and I think it's not so much a string 
as a small sash.  It does go throught the trouser waist casing, but it's 
about 8" wide, made of very light fabric, and has heavily embroidered ends.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 11:39:58 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: glove leather (was Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>
>>> Obligatory costume content - I have a chunk 2' x 2' of soft white 
>>> leather and am not sure what to use it for.  I've thought gloves, 
>>> but am not sure of my ability after one class.  Any suggestions for 
>>> something 16th C Venice or 6th C Francia?
>>
>
>>> I _would_ go for glowes.  But if you're not sure of your ability, 
>>> fold it up nicely and put it away until you've made a pair out of 
>>> something less fancy.
>>
>
> Roll it, instead of folding it.


Yes, good point... in fact, roll it up with some acid free tissue paper.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: [h-cost] Gloves??
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Intact gloves--weren't gloves as disposable as nylon
stockings?

They got dirty very fast, and L.M. Alcott makes it a
point to show how cleaned gloves weren't best wear any
more, if you could even get them clean-ish.

Nice thin leather that you'd already gotten wear out
of is useful for a lot of things, and 'free'.

Ann in CT

> That said, I wonder why I can't ever find
> Victorian-era gloves that aren't ridiculously tiny. 
> Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove wearing
crowd?



		
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 5:44 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
[snip]
> It depends what you mean.  It's probably safest to say that the heights
> of _lower_class people have increased a good deal, but those of upper
> class people by much less.  A friend of mine is interested in 19th
> century militaria and says that many of the jackets he's found have been
> too small for him-- and he's only 5'7" and slim. Heights are determined
> by a combination of genetics and diet.  And a single example doesn't
> prove anything about averages-- Lincoln was considered a tall man while
> he was alive.

Exactly.  As Oliver Wendell Holmes (allegedly) said, "all generalizations are 
no good, including this one."  Henry VIII of England was apparently around 6 
feet 2 inches tall (we have full suits of armor he wore to help confirm it).    
On the other hand, I've seen Horatio Nelson's uniform coat in the Greenwich 
Naval Museum, and it's tiny (i.e., I could not fit into it, and I'm only 5 
feet 1 inch tall, 130 pounds).  

What would tell us more is how far from the norm of their respective times 
Henry and Horatio were.  (There's a term in statistics for such a figure, but 
I forget what that term is.)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Small hands may indeed be prized, but stuffing ones hands into
child-sized gloves seems a little extreme in pursuit of fashion, rather
like tightlacing. Surely married, settled women might give in and admit
their real size instead of blowing the seams out of every pair.

I have very long thin hands and I'm used to fingers on gloves being too
short, but surely I can't be so much of an ogre that not even the tips
of my fingers will fit!

Maybe there's an expert out there who has yet to weigh in?


> 
> That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
> aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
> wearing crowd?
> 

I think that I've read (in that famous 'somewhere') that small hands
were prized so a woman would wear gloves that were as small as
possible -- even if it made her hands look like stuffed sausages
because they were so tight.

Onaree

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This is one of the many reasons I like doing historical outfits.  My 
usual joke is that it's hard for me to find gloves that don't have 
snowmen knitted on the back, because my hands are so small.  I love 
finding gloves at estate sales; most people can't wear them.  Even as 
small as they are, usually the little finger is too long.

Karen

Onaree Berard wrote:

>>That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
>>aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
>>wearing crowd?
>>
>
>I think that I've read (in that famous 'somewhere') that small hands
>were prized so a woman would wear gloves that were as small as
>possible -- even if it made her hands look like stuffed sausages
>because they were so tight.
>
>Onaree
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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> This is one of the many reasons I like doing historical outfits.  My usual 
> joke is that it's hard for me to find gloves that don't have snowmen 
> knitted on the back, because my hands are so small.  I love finding gloves 
> at estate sales; most people can't wear them.  Even as small as they are, 
> usually the little finger is too long.
>
> Karen

This I can relate with. I can usually manage to find small enough gloves, 
just barely small enough, that is. But for me, the fingers are usually too 
short. Children's gloves usually fit around the hand but are WAY too short 
for me. The smallest size of adult gloves will sometimes fit me. Actually... 
they fit me when there's tons of size small left on the rack because they're 
too small for everybody else :-)

What I still haven't found is a suitable archery glove. I think I'll give up 
and just buy a pair of second-hand full gloves, and shoot with that. 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 7:12 pm, Chris Laning wrote:
[snip]
> I just keep picturing two or three little beasts the size of hamsters,
> playing hide and seek.... running races, in one sleeve, out the other.....
> playing "king of the castle" on top of the headdress..... <g>

<g>

I suspect, however, that they really mean small lap dogs (such as the dogs 
depicted in the January image in the Tres Riches Heures).   I doubt women 
wore them in their clothing, deep sleeves or no.  On the other hand, I'm 
inclined to believe what I have heard about noble ladies incurring the 
displeasure of priests by taking them to church with them on cold winter 
mornings.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 3:45 pm, Dawn wrote:
[snip]

> A little more looking and I found that brassieres and corsets evolved
> concurrently through the end of the 19th century. The corset slid down
> and turned into more of what we now think of as a control-top garter.
> I've seen vintage ads for "bra and corset" sets. The bra was always a
> separate garment, supported by straps, where the corset, when it
> supported the bust, relied on boning that pushed up from the torso.

Really?  I don't know of any evidence for a support garment remotely like the 
brassiere before the late 19-teens--early 1920s.  What source do you have in 
mind?


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>On Wednesday 01 June 2005 7:12 pm, Chris Laning wrote:
>[snip]
>  
>
>>I just keep picturing two or three little beasts the size of hamsters,
>>playing hide and seek.... running races, in one sleeve, out the other.....
>>playing "king of the castle" on top of the headdress..... <g>
>>    
>>
>
><g>
>
>I suspect, however, that they really mean small lap dogs (such as the dogs 
>depicted in the January image in the Tres Riches Heures).   I doubt women 
>wore them in their clothing, deep sleeves or no.  On the other hand, I'm 
>inclined to believe what I have heard about noble ladies incurring the 
>displeasure of priests by taking them to church with them on cold winter 
>mornings.
>  
>

Kind of a late-medieval Paris Hilton... ugh!

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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>**That's tiny for adult males.  Where were they born?  France?
>  
>  
>
>No. Corsica. They were all named Bonaparte, and they all wanted to conquer the world....Just kidding, I couldn't resist, Mike T.
>  
>
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 21:36:06 -0400
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 9:23 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
[snip]
> >I suspect, however, that they really mean small lap dogs (such as the dogs
> >depicted in the January image in the Tres Riches Heures).   I doubt women
> >wore them in their clothing, deep sleeves or no.  On the other hand, I'm
> >inclined to believe what I have heard about noble ladies incurring the
> >displeasure of priests by taking them to church with them on cold winter
> >mornings.
>
> Kind of a late-medieval Paris Hilton... ugh!

 Human nature hasn't changed--I'm sure there've been Paris H. clones in every 
generation since Adam and Eve.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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>
> The closest I have heard to that is that small dogs, besides being
> amusing,  were warmer than people-body-temperature.  And Eskimos do
> sleep next to  dogs on cold nights (or is it the dogs choosing to sleep
> next to the people?).
>
>

Only if they are out away from home at night. If they are home the eskimo
sleeps in his home and the dogs outside in the snow or possibly dog
houses.   Unless they have taken to keeping pet dogs now.

Now in our house the dog chooses to sleep with one of the humans if she is
cold, or on our bedroom floor if she is not.   LOL  Kitty


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>On Wednesday 01 June 2005 3:45 pm, Dawn wrote:
>[snip]
>
>  
>
>>A little more looking and I found that brassieres and corsets evolved
>>concurrently through the end of the 19th century. The corset slid down
>>and turned into more of what we now think of as a control-top garter.
>>I've seen vintage ads for "bra and corset" sets. The bra was always a
>>separate garment, supported by straps, where the corset, when it
>>supported the bust, relied on boning that pushed up from the torso.
>>    
>>
>
>Really?  I don't know of any evidence for a support garment remotely like the 
>brassiere before the late 19-teens--early 1920s.  What source do you have in 
>mind?
>
>
>  
>

In 1889 Herminie Cadolle of France invented a two-peice undergarment set 
called /le bien-être/ (the wellbeing) consisting of a corset for the 
waist and hips and an upper half supporting the breasts by means of 
shoulder straps. By 1905 the upper half was being sold separately as a 
*soutien-gorge* (breast support), which is still the term used fro bras 
in France.

In 1893, Marie Tucek patented the “Breast Supporter” – similar to a 
modern bra that in that it supported the breasts in pockets of fabric.

In America, Mary Phelps Jacob was granted the first U.S. patent for the 
brassiere, in 1913. Her invention is most widely recognized as the 
predecessor to the modern bra. She sold the patent to the Warner 
Brothers Corset Company.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Hmmm, I've got to share this:  Back in my younger days...say around 1978, I was sitting in church and the lady in the seat in front of me had an elaborately teased and hairsprayed like a rock up do.  Lo and behond I saw a spider, leisurely wandering through the stiffened mass of hair.  I gingerly took my crochet hook, enticed it out of the little nest and promptly stomped on it.

She gave me the dirtiest look and didn't believe me when I explained what had happened.  But I promise you it was true!  I do not like spiders anywhere in my immediate vicinty, and thus the intruder had to go, even though it was on someone else's head!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> >What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with? 
> 
> What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
> there? (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
> have been head lice.) I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
> 1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
> head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then). I later heard the same 
> story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
> powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth. 
> 
> CarolynKayta Barrows 
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian 
> www.FunStuft.com 
> 
> //// \\\ 
> ////-@@\\\ 
> (((( 7 ))) 
> ((( <> )))) 
> ) (((((( 
> /----\ /---\)) 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 9:44 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
[snip ]
> >Really?  I don't know of any evidence for a support garment remotely like
> > the brassiere before the late 19-teens--early 1920s.  What source do you
> > have in mind?
>
> In 1889 Herminie Cadolle of France invented a two-peice undergarment set
> called /le bien-être/ (the wellbeing) consisting of a corset for the
> waist and hips and an upper half supporting the breasts by means of
> shoulder straps. By 1905 the upper half was being sold separately as a
> *soutien-gorge* (breast support), which is still the term used fro bras
> in France.

Yes, "soutien-gorge" is still the term used. 

I was aware of Ms. Jacob's invention but not Mlle. (Mme.?) Cadolle's. Do you 
know of anywhere I could find an image of it on line?

>
> In 1893, Marie Tucek patented the “Breast Supporter” – similar to a
> modern bra that in that it supported the breasts in pockets of fabric.

Another image I should track down.  I suppose I shouldn't be surprised, 
though, considering how many designs were patented for crinolines and 
bustles.

 Thank you so much for the information!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 9:47 pm, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net wrote:
> Hmmm, I've got to share this:  Back in my younger days...say around 1978, I
> was sitting in church and the lady in the seat in front of me had an
> elaborately teased and hairsprayed like a rock up do.  Lo and behond I saw
> a spider, leisurely wandering through the stiffened mass of hair.  I
> gingerly took my crochet hook, enticed it out of the little nest and
> promptly stomped on it.
>
> She gave me the dirtiest look and didn't believe me when I explained what
> had happened.  But I promise you it was true!  I do not like spiders
> anywhere in my immediate vicinty, and thus the intruder had to go, even
> though it was on someone else's head!

Some of the reports of the wildlife harbored by the high hairstyles of the 
1780s are similar.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
there?  (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
have been head lice.)  I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then).  I later heard the same 
story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 6:46 pm, Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:

[snip]

> I can say that in the book "Woven into the Earth" 
> there are pictures of actual 12-13th century gowns with side pockets...
> some in the gore seam and some in the side seam.  
 [rest snipped]

Where?  I have "Woven Into the Earth" and I don't see anything that 
demonstrates the existence of modern, integral-to-the-garment pockets.  The 
discussion on p. 94 does refer to "pocket slits", but that could refer to 
slits made so that pouches or pockets on a string (such as the 18th c ones) 
worn underneath could be easily reached.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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> I suspect, however, that they really mean small lap dogs (such as 
> the dogs depicted in the January image in the Tres Riches Heures).   I
doubt 
> women wore them in their clothing, deep sleeves or no.  On the other
hand, 
> I'm inclined to believe what I have heard about noble ladies incurring 
> the displeasure of priests by taking them to church with them on cold 
> winter mornings.

Why wouldn't you? Nuns did. More than one papal bull was directed at the
good sisters for having pets and then bringing them to church.

Arlys
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 Ah ....but there so began the myth of "Is that a
weasal in your pocket,or are you just happy to see
me?" ;~>

--- Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote:
 <snip>
> Costuming myths? Let's see....
> >> 
> BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer
> locate the original of, which means it must be at
> least fifteen years since I saw it: that for warmth,
> medieval women frequently carried small furry
> animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves
> of their clothing.... for me at least, the mental
> images this produces are hilarious!
> 
>
____________________________________________________________
> 0  Chris Laning
> |  <claning@igc.org>
> +  Davis, California
> _


		
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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 15:28:06 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>>In 1889 Herminie Cadolle of France invented a two-peice undergarment set
>>called /le bien-être/ (the wellbeing) consisting of a corset for the
>>waist and hips and an upper half supporting the breasts by means of
>>shoulder straps. By 1905 the upper half was being sold separately as a
>>*soutien-gorge* (breast support), which is still the term used fro bras
>>in France.
>>    
>>
>
>Yes, "soutien-gorge" is still the term used. 
>
>I was aware of Ms. Jacob's invention but not Mlle. (Mme.?) Cadolle's. Do you 
>know of anywhere I could find an image of it on line?
>  
>

Sadly, no... I did have a quick hunt around, but no luck.



-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 11:28 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> >>In 1889 Herminie Cadolle of France invented a two-peice undergarment set
> >>called /le bien-être/ (the wellbeing) consisting of a corset for the
> >>waist and hips and an upper half supporting the breasts by means of
> >>shoulder straps. By 1905 the upper half was being sold separately as a
> >>*soutien-gorge* (breast support), which is still the term used fro bras
> >>in France.
> >
> >Yes, "soutien-gorge" is still the term used.
> >
> >I was aware of Ms. Jacob's invention but not Mlle. (Mme.?) Cadolle's. Do
> > you know of anywhere I could find an image of it on line?
>
> Sadly, no... I did have a quick hunt around, but no luck.

Thanks.  I'll troll a bit for it myself and if I get lucky, I'll post the 
result.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 

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>
>>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal
>> with?
>
> What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived
> there?  (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could
> have been head lice.)  I first heard this in the beehive-period early
> 1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the
> owners  head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then).  I later
> heard the same  story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s
> (weevils going after the  powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old
> myth.
>

In the midwest the rumor went around that women had died from black widow
spiders taking up residence in the beehive hairdo and being provoked
perhaps by scratching or other irritation, stung the wearer to death.  
don't know if it was true, but I found a black widow spider on my pillow
one morning the first year I lived in Colorado.   scared of spiders ever
since.  Kitty


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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

> 
> On Wed, 1 Jun 2005, Dawn wrote:
> 
> > "The little bow on your bra is a holdover from
> corset lacing. "
> > ...Snip....
> >
> But in a nice example of like-things-recurring over
> time: The busk on an Elizabethan corset can be
secured at the top by a small lace or point or
> ribbon put through the corset, which (when tied)
> produces a little bow at the same point we're
accustomed to seeing bra bows.
> 
> And if that's not enough: I don't have a source for
> this, but I've heard others comment on
Elizabethan-era references to the giving of one's
> busk-lace as an intimate gift from a woman to a man
> (perhaps suggesting
> that once the lace is undone, the busk can be
> removed...). 
        Comment:
I seem to remember seeing in the BBC production of
Elizabeth R an episode when she is holding the Spanish
Prince at bay,  by sending him a present of a ribbon
from her corset or busk...quite a darling & intimate
gift for a suitor....after recieving  quite a few of
these ribbons, he gets miffed and tossese them to the
floor. Where they got this "factoid" for the
production I don't know.....

> I'd love to have a source on the giving of
> busk-strings, just because the
> parallel is so cute.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Men's Flemish peasant garb 
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Status: RO

 
 
That hay-in-art site is interesting, but the painting I was talking  about 
isn't on it. I will try to get my book back from the person who borrowed  it so 
I can scan the image for you. It didn't occur to me that it would be so  hard 
to find online.
 
Tara


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Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 21:50:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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My personal experience,: I still have a pair of kid
gloves I first acquired at about age of 6 or 8. These
were my "church" gloves. I took those poor crumpled
gloves out the other day, worked them in my hands,
softening the skin,warming them, and "worked" my now
adult hands into them. only a slight "strain' showed
at the thumb seam line.
 So ,when they say the ladies "worked" their hands
into the gloves for some times before going out,it is
true.
The reason why the gloves are cut so small,_I_ think
is the fact that they do indeed stretch out quite a
bit after warming and wearing them...if they were cut
large to begin with you'd have probably lost them off
your hands. We don't have the patience to smooth,
stretch,smooth ,stretch our selves into those gloves.
They do look lovely when finally on, and fit like
surgical gloves(commercial mode: "so flexible you can
pick up a dime")
 I have a modern pair I bought from a lady "4 in hand"
coach driver, kid skin,bitty, and smeling wonderful.
Her instructions were the same, "warm ,stretch, ,put
on, warm,stretch,warm, tug a bit, repeat"
 And a note: my adult hands resemble "donald Duck's
feet,palm is almost perfectly square-about 3"x3" with
longish fingers, ...not dainty by far...the gloves are
about 2" across.

--- Sandra Olsen <sandraleigh@abraxis.com> wrote:

> Small hands may indeed be prized, but stuffing ones
> hands into
> child-sized gloves seems a little extreme in pursuit
> of fashion, rather
> like tightlacing. Surely married, settled women
> might give in and admit
> their real size instead of blowing the seams out of
> every pair.
> 
> I have very long thin hands and I'm used to fingers
> on gloves being too
> short, but surely I can't be so much of an ogre that
> not even the tips
> of my fingers will fit!
> 
> Maybe there's an expert out there who has yet to
> weigh in?
> 
> 
> > 
> > That said, I wonder why I can't ever find
> Victorian-era gloves that
> > aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even
> among the kid-glove
> > wearing crowd?
> > 
> 
> I think that I've read (in that famous 'somewhere')
> that small hands
> were prized so a woman would wear gloves that were
> as small as
> possible -- even if it made her hands look like
> stuffed sausages
> because they were so tight.
> 
> Onaree
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  2 01:11:38 2005
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 17:10:33 +1200
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> Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
> has always really bugged me for the supposed era
> people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
> when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
> satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
> the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
> before that?

I can't believe no one has mentioned the glorious red satin doublet of
Charles the bold! It is a stunningly lustrous garment even now!

I think I have some images of it in my photobucket account..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/sca/DSCN2084.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/sca/DSCN2080.jpg

The doublet is from the 1570s, and I'm pretty sure I've seen satin mentioned
in the Privy Purse Accounts from the Richard III society, probably around
1500.
http://caterinaetcetera.tripod.com/reference-elysabeth.htm

http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/ms154/ArmingCoat/assembly.htm
"Extant examples sported satin linings, and that made good sense for my
effort. "
Not sure which ones, but on the page on the history of arming doublets there
are a few extant doublets.
http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/ms154/ArmingCoat/history.htm

Of course Eleanora di Toledo was buried in a satin gown, and when you look
at the photos in Patterns of Fashion it still has a fair bit of lustre.
Especially seen in the close up of the side back lacing.

http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20011109/high/0332-013.jpg
http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20011109/high/0332-014.jpg
1580-1600, cloak
Red satin, couched and embroidered with silver, silver-gilt and coloured
silk threads, trimmed with silver-gilt and silk thread fringe and tassel,
and lined with pink linen
museum number 793-1901
I understand it looks more lustrous in real life, brighter red as well.

There is much more research out ther that has been done (possibly books
about silk would be a good place to start as well as wills and the like)
just perhpas not in a readily accessable site;)

michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 01:25:41 -0400
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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>And pre-PhotoShop photo re-touching is pretty obvious in most cases.

      The ones I've seen have the lady against a dark background - 
sitting on a dark chair, for example.  So the retouching is not 
obvious, because they pick a plain background in order for it to work.

>Maybe it's just that kid leather is prone to shrinkage?

      When is the last time kid gloves were made?  So there they are 
at various antique stores, a shrinking cache, the larger ones being 
sold before the smaller ones.  Not to mention the doll makers who buy 
them to cut off the tips for doll shoes!  Although the stretching 
makes sense, I think it's becoming more and more a lucky find for 
gloves that fit an average or large size hand.

      -Carol
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On Wed, 1 Jun 2005 16:01:38 -0500 "Althea Turner"
<althea@alfalfapress.com> writes:

> Why am I hearing in my head strains of the song, "When the squirrel 
> went berzerk in the First Selfrighteous church in the sleepy little
town 
> of Tuskagoula"
> 
> :D

You WOULD bring that up!!! ;D

Regarding busk points--there's an English madrigal that mentions them.
Apparently for a man to gain a lady's favor to the end that she gave him
one was quite the prize. The song mentions a fellow recieving a busk
points with the tags (ties) off. I can't remember what it's called at the
moment, although I swear I hear the King's Singers performing the
relevent bits in my head. ;)

Arlys
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
<snip> BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the
original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it:
that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals
around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at
least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!

Actually I believe this may have been imported, I believe the Chinese
Emperors actually did have dogs in their sleeves (but then again I may be
perpetuating a costume myth here) so I'd expect somebody made a joke about
Houpellande sleeves being the right shape for something similar, and
somebody took it as fact.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 01:18:38 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Satin Question
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Yup, wills are a font of information.  <G>  While I mainly work with 16th 
century wills, I have seen it in 15th century English wills as well as, 
"silk of Saracen work" - it was bedding in a priest's will... <G>

Cheers,
Danielle

At 12:35 PM 6/1/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Yes, I know Satin is a weave!  :)  And yes, the Orient
>had satins wayyy back when... I should have been more
>specific in my question.  I was thinking
>narrow-mindedly of western culture.  Teehee.  Thanks
>for the responses, though.  It looks like it will
>definitely require some more research.  That's
>interesting about it being in wills!  I never would
>have thought to look there.  I'll bet there's all
>sorts of interesting things to learn from wills!
>
> > There are examples of satin weaves used in 16th
> > century clothing....I've
> > even seen an extant bit of cut-and-voided velvet
> > (16th c.) that had a
> > background of satin weave, which really made the
> > velvet pile stand out
> > in contrast.
> > --sue
>
>
>That sounds absolutely breathtaking!  Hm, I may want
>to "steal" that idea (or "re-create"... right?  wink
>wink).
>
>
>
>"Is there any hope, Gandalf? . . . For Frodo and Sam?"
>"There never was much hope.  Just a fool's hope."
>
>--Pippin and Gandalf, RETURN OF THE KING
>
>
>
>__________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard.
>http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Julie wrote:
>**Ulp - I thought it was something about keeping the
sword arm free.  Another myth?

Adele replied:
I think nearly anything that posits a relationship
between weapons use and ordinary clothes can be
dismissed.

I comment:
Why do you think this? Certainly there have been
points in history in which military "style" has
influenced civilian style (eg: late 1990's, when camos
were cool, Regency/Napoleonic times, when ladies wore
Scarlet outfits with gold frogging-- or is that
another urban legend I believe in? *g*)... why would
influence due to function be so very different?

Adele wrote:
I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a
picture of a pair of Venetians with a pocket set into
the side seam. This is _not_ to say that pockets on
separate bands didn't stay popular for at least
another 300 years.

I reply:
Awesome! I have Renaissance-minded, pocket-loving
(addicted?) friends who will be thrilled when they
learn about this! (I, too, believed in the "fichets,
not pockets for pre-modern days" myth.) Out of
curiosity, why did the "old" method stick around for
so long?

Cheers,
Stephanie


		
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>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original
of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for
warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry >animals around with
them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the
mental images this produces are hilarious!

You are kidding, right? That is not even close to being logical!

Mine is the old "women removed their ribs for tinier waists". Hmm, in the
days of antique medicine, you would have to be rather vain for that one.
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>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original
of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for
warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry >animals around with
them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the
mental images this produces are hilarious!

You are kidding, right? That is not even close to being logical!

Mine is the old "women removed their ribs for tinier waists". Hmm, in the
days of antique medicine, you would have to be rather vain for that one.
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"Cavaliers and Roundheads could be instantly told apart by their style of dress."
(Clothing differences had much more to do with social class; officers on both sides dressed similarly, although a few wealthy Parliamentarians affected plain "Puritan" styles on principle.)

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> jtknits@jtknits.cts.com 01/06/2005 19:38 >>>
This reminds me...
What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

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Kate Bunting
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>>> AnnBWass@aol.com 01/06/2005 15:35 >>>
 
>In a message dated 6/1/2005 9:52:01 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
>cvirtue+dated+1133185394.46599e@thibault.org writes:

>NB  "Beard" in this context probably means "moustache", as full >beards were 
>not  normally worn at this time.

>No, I think "beard" means all facial hair.  Pepys was a proponent of  
>self-shaving.  After trying the stone, he later switched to a razor.   A >later entry, "without being shaved I am not fully awake nor ready to >settle to  business."
 
But he says he suddenly decided to remove his beard "which I had been a great while bringing up". This suggests a deliberately cultivated area of facial hair, not just a few days' stubble.


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Kate Bunting
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>>> cathy@thyrsus.com 02/06/2005 01:42 >>>
>Exactly.  As Oliver Wendell Holmes (allegedly) said, "all >generalizations are no good, including this one."  Henry VIII of England >was apparently around 6 feet 2 inches tall (we have full suits of >armor he wore to help confirm it).    
>On the other hand, I've seen Horatio Nelson's uniform coat in the >Greenwich Naval Museum, and it's tiny (i.e., I could not fit into it, and >I'm only 5 feet 1 inch tall, 130 pounds).  

Yes, and King Charles I was around 5 feet tall, but his son Charles II (who allegedly took after his French grandfather) was "above two yards high".


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"If you wish to live and thrive,
Let the spider run alive."

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net 02/06/2005 02:47 >>>
Hmmm, I've got to share this:  Back in my younger days...say around 1978, I was sitting in church and the lady in the seat in front of me had an elaborately teased and hairsprayed like a rock up do.  Lo and behond I saw a spider, leisurely wandering through the stiffened mass of hair.  I gingerly took my crochet hook, enticed it out of the little nest and promptly stomped on it.

She gave me the dirtiest look and didn't believe me when I explained what had happened.  But I promise you it was true!  I do not like spiders anywhere in my immediate vicinty, and thus the intruder had to go, even though it was on someone else's head!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> >What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with? 
> 
> What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
> there? (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
> have been head lice.) I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
> 1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
> head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then). I later heard the same 
> story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
> powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth. 
> 
> CarolynKayta Barrows 
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian 
> www.FunStuft.com 
> 
> //// \\\ 
> ////-@@\\\ 
> (((( 7 ))) 
> ((( <> )))) 
> ) (((((( 
> /----\ /---\)) 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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When male and female button direction was discussed on this list several years ago, I quoted the assertion from a boys' book of my father's, circa 1917, that men's coats buttoned left over right so the sword would not catch in the opening. It was agreed that this doesn't make sense - when you draw a sword, you don't pull it across your front.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> sismith42@yahoo.com 02/06/2005 07:54 >>>
Julie wrote:
>**Ulp - I thought it was something about keeping the
sword arm free.  Another myth?

Adele replied:
I think nearly anything that posits a relationship
between weapons use and ordinary clothes can be
dismissed.

I comment:
Why do you think this? Certainly there have been
points in history in which military "style" has
influenced civilian style (eg: late 1990's, when camos
were cool, Regency/Napoleonic times, when ladies wore
Scarlet outfits with gold frogging-- or is that
another urban legend I believe in? *g*)... why would
influence due to function be so very different?

Adele wrote:
I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a
picture of a pair of Venetians with a pocket set into
the side seam. This is _not_ to say that pockets on
separate bands didn't stay popular for at least
another 300 years.

I reply:
Awesome! I have Renaissance-minded, pocket-loving
(addicted?) friends who will be thrilled when they
learn about this! (I, too, believed in the "fichets,
not pockets for pre-modern days" myth.) Out of
curiosity, why did the "old" method stick around for
so long?

Cheers,
Stephanie


		
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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<snip>
>
> That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
> aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
> wearing crowd?

well, statistically, there was quite a drop in height (and therefore overall
size) at the beginning of the 19th century, plus tight gloves were another
one of those immobilising signs of status. and (as others have mentioned)
they may not actually be adult gloves.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Men's Flemish peasant garb
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Hey, don't worry.  I have had no time (10 is earliest i've got home 
lately, and i leave at 6am sharp) to do anything about it.  when i get a 
breather, i will stop at the library.  I should today or they will send 
back my books on tape, but they are not open by the time i get near home 
(complain, complain, complain!)

TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:

> 
> 
>That hay-in-art site is interesting, but the painting I was talking  about 
>isn't on it. I will try to get my book back from the person who borrowed  it so 
>I can scan the image for you. It didn't occur to me that it would be so  hard 
>to find online.
> 
>Tara
>
>
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>
>
>  
>


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Drop in hight?

Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

>well, statistically, there was quite a drop in height (and therefore overall
>size) at the beginning of the 19th century, 
>


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On Thursday 02 June 2005 2:54 am, Stephanie Smith wrote:
[snip]
> Adele wrote:
> I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a
> picture of a pair of Venetians with a pocket set into
> the side seam. This is _not_ to say that pockets on
> separate bands didn't stay popular for at least
> another 300 years.

I grabbed for my copy when I read that.  Actually, Arnold describes two pair 
of  upper hose with pockets, both dated to the late 1610s.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Subject: [h-cost] Copper lace. 
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Copper lace ca. 1560.  from Theater Inventory listings



>Hi all you Lacers out there.  What is the earliest evidence you have seen 
>of any kind of lace made from metallic threads?
>
>Thanks, Sg
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So what do y'all figure the powder in the hair was for?  To keep it from 
looking oily?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
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At 08:16 02/06/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>So what do y'all figure the powder in the hair was for?  To keep it from 
>looking oily?
>
>--
>Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>
>"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
>I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
>Get me a steam drill too!"
>    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry


Powder was used in hair to make it the colour required, mostly white or 
grey but coloured powders were used too. (Later, 18th century wigs were 
stiffened, shaped and coloured with pipeclay.) It is perfectly probable 
that "creatures" would like it, as it was food based, I believe, like 
powdered orris root, which also smells wonderful (when fresh!) or other 
substances. There is a good book on Hair and hairdressing, probably out of 
print, by Richard Corson. It has detailed information on 5000 years of 
hairdressing, quotes on the subject and many line drawings of hair and wig 
styles through the centuries.

Suzi


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  2 08:43:33 2005
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From: Mara Riley <corbiegirl@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] handspun/handwoven, was costume myths
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Actually, we've had several discussions on the 18cWoman list about
handspun.  Yes, people in the colonies / on the frontier did weave
some of their own clothing, but a LOT of fabric was being imported as
well.  The perception that "everyone in the colonies wore handspun,
all the time" is another costuming myth that I've been trying to
combat.  (All-or-nothing statements, you know...)  And in the
mid-Atlantic PA German areas, particularly, the pattern seems to have
been that (some) women spun flax and wool at home (a fair percentage
of houses didn't have spinning wheels at all), then sent the yarn off
to a local (professional) weaver and/or dyer to be woven and/or dyed.


A few books that deal with the subject are "Good Wives" and "The Age
of Homespun" by Laurel Thatcher Ulrich and "Cloth and Costume" by
Tandy and Charles Hersh.

Cheers,
Mara


http://knittingobsession.blogspot.com/ - knitting blog
http://www.knittingobsession.com/patterns.htm - Modern knitting patterns
http://www.marariley.net/ - 18th century costume notes and patterns
---------------------
Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd. - Voltaire
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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I wouldn't want to carry a critter around with me, but a half dozen cats beats an electric blanket any cold night!!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 12:38:08 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)

The closest I have heard to that is that small dogs, besides being amusing, 
were warmer than people-body-temperature.  And Eskimos do sleep next to 
dogs on cold nights (or is it the dogs choosing to sleep next to the people?).


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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On the whole, nutrition has a lot to do with how tall people grow (after their genes are considered).  QE 1 was very proud of her height and Mary Queen of Scots was almost six feet tall.  Of course, they ate better than than the average too.  However, they did not have nutritionists telling them what to eat and changing their minds every year either.  They ate what was available and for the rich, their diet was pretty high in meat and bread and root crops that could be stored.  Fresh vegies and fruit were pretty seasonal.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:

From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 09:44:37 +1200
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)

Julie wrote:

>People were smaller then.  Just look at all the small uniforms that have been recovered, small armor, etc.  (what about some of the 6 foot plus skeletons, etc...Abe Lincoln)  So were they mostly smaller?  Sure seems to be so in current times.  Children are often taller than their parents and grandparents.  Is it diet?  Is it genes?
>  
>

It depends what you mean.  It's probably safest to say that the heights 
of _lower_class people have increased a good deal, but those of upper 
class people by much less.  A friend of mine is interested in 19th 
century militaria and says that many of the jackets he's found have been 
too small for him-- and he's only 5'7" and slim. Heights are determined 
by a combination of genetics and diet.  And a single example doesn't 
prove anything about averages-- Lincoln was considered a tall man while 
he was alive.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  2 09:33:28 2005
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References: <5.2.1.1.2.20050602080125.01961be0@postoffice8.mail.cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  metallic lace
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 08:33:58 -0500
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There's a portrait by Corneille de Lyon from 1530-40 of a woman with what I 
can only assume is some sort of metallic lace at the neckline:
http://www.wga.hu/html/c/corneill/p_woman.html
(If anyone can think of something _other_ than metallic lace that this could 
be, I'd like very much to know!)

-E House 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  2 09:35:19 2005
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	<200506012120.12320.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 08:35:57 -0500
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I'm not Dawn, but if you'll give me an hour or two I can post several 
pictures of advertisements of bras & extant garments from the 1890s-1910s.

-E House

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> Really?  I don't know of any evidence for a support garment remotely like 
> the
> brassiere before the late 19-teens--early 1920s.  What source do you have 
> in
> mind?

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  2 09:50:18 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shot silk (was: Satin question)
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This discussion reminds me of something I've been trying to track down the 
last few days.  Exactly when did shot silk (or shot wool, for that matter) 
fall out of fashion between the 15th & 16th centuries?  Fabric shot with 
both gold and other colors shows up in manuscripts well into the 16thC, but 
not in any portraits I can call to mind.  It seems reasonable to assume that 
the shot effect seen in the manuscripts is intended for artistic purposes 
only (in other words, as an opportunity to lay on the gilt and make it look 
richer).

-E House (has her eye on a lovely shot silk taffeta she'd like to buy for a 
c1515 gown, but would settle for 1490s...)

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: spiders..Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 14:07:04 +0000
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Oh, I agree!  But as a girl, I ended up getting bitten by a spider 5 summers in a row, so they are not allowed in close proximity.  If they stay where they belong, they can merrily spin whatever webs they like...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> "If you wish to live and thrive, 
> Let the spider run alive." 
> 
> Kate Bunting 
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor 
> 
> >>> elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net 02/06/2005 02:47 >>> 
> Hmmm, I've got to share this: Back in my younger days...say around 1978, I was 
> sitting in church and the lady in the seat in front of me had an elaborately 
> teased and hairsprayed like a rock up do. Lo and behond I saw a spider, 
> leisurely wandering through the stiffened mass of hair. I gingerly took my 
> crochet hook, enticed it out of the little nest and promptly stomped on it. 
> 
> She gave me the dirtiest look and didn't believe me when I explained what had 
> happened. But I promise you it was true! I do not like spiders anywhere in my 
> immediate vicinty, and thus the intruder had to go, even though it was on 
> someone else's head! 
> 
> -- 
> Slan go foill 
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
> 
> Emer's Needle Wares 
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> 
> > 
> > >What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with? 
> > 
> > What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
> > there? (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
> > have been head lice.) I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
> > 1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
> > head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then). I later heard the same 
> > story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
> > powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth. 
> > 
> > CarolynKayta Barrows 
> > dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian 
> > www.FunStuft.com 
> > 
> > //// \\\ 
> > ////-@@\\\ 
> > (((( 7 ))) 
> > ((( <> )))) 
> > ) (((((( 
> > /----\ /---\)) 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> _______________________________________________ 
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Oh, I agree!  But as a girl, I ended up getting bitten by a spider 5 summers in a row, so they are not allowed in close proximity.  If they stay where they belong, they can merrily spin whatever webs they like...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> "If you wish to live and thrive, 
> Let the spider run alive." 
> 
> Kate Bunting 
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor 
> 
> >>> elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net 02/06/2005 02:47 >>> 
> Hmmm, I've got to share this: Back in my younger days...say around 1978, I was 
> sitting in church and the lady in the seat in front of me had an elaborately 
> teased and hairsprayed like a rock up do. Lo and behond I saw a spider, 
> leisurely wandering through the stiffened mass of hair. I gingerly took my 
> crochet hook, enticed it out of the little nest and promptly stomped on it. 
> 
> She gave me the dirtiest look and didn't believe me when I explained what had 
> happened. But I promise you it was true! I do not like spiders anywhere in my 
> immediate vicinty, and thus the intruder had to go, even though it was on 
> someone else's head! 
> 
> -- 
> Slan go foill 
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
> 
> Emer's Needle Wares 
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> 
> > 
> > >What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with? 
> > 
> > What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
> > there? (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
> > have been head lice.) I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
> > 1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
> > head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then). I later heard the same 
> > story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
> > powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth. 
> > 
> > CarolynKayta Barrows 
> > dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian 
> > www.FunStuft.com 
> > 
> > //// \\\ 
> > ////-@@\\\ 
> > (((( 7 ))) 
> > ((( <> )))) 
> > ) (((((( 
> > /----\ /---\)) 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
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> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shot silk (was: Satin question)
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I'm not sure if this qualifies as 'shot' but there are numerous references in Queen E's Unl of various colors of cloth of gold and silver. I can think of 'Tawney cloth of gold'and 'purple cloth of gold' as two specifically, but there are pages of references to what I have always thought of as cloth with a metallic thread on one direction (weft?) and colored silk in the other direction (warp?) giving a changeable look depending on how you saw the fabric. I'm away from my books right now, but anyone with a Queen E's handy can look up the various descriptions of the fabrics.


Karen
Seamstrix
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Subject: [h-cost] busk points
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Here's that lyric I was trying to remember, thanks to a madrigalist pal
o' mine.

Arlys


> Thomas Weelkes' "Lord, When I Think". The lyrics are below, and it's 
> in the first verse:
> 
> Lord, when I think what a paltery thing
> is a glove or a ring or a top of a fan to brag of,
> and how much a Noddy will triumph in a busk point,
> snatch with the tag off, then I say
> Well fare him that hath ever used close play.
> 
> And when I see what a pitiful grace
> hath a frown in the face
> or a no in the lips of a Lady,
> and when I had wist she would be kiss'd
> when she away did go with hey ho
> I end so, Never trust any woman more than you know.

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shot silk (was: Satin question)
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 14:28:02 +0000
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I know that there are sources for similar fabrics in Italian city states as well...I'll have to find my books...they are still in boxes..

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> I'm not sure if this qualifies as 'shot' but there are numerous references in 
> Queen E's Unl of various colors of cloth of gold and silver. I can think of 
> 'Tawney cloth of gold'and 'purple cloth of gold' as two specifically, but there 
> are pages of references to what I have always thought of as cloth with a 
> metallic thread on one direction (weft?) and colored silk in the other direction 
> (warp?) giving a changeable look depending on how you saw the fabric. I'm away 
> from my books right now, but anyone with a Queen E's handy can look up the 
> various descriptions of the fabrics. 
> 
> 
> Karen 
> Seamstrix 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shot silk (was: Satin question)
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At 14:19 02/06/2005 +0000, you wrote:

>I'm not sure if this qualifies as 'shot' but there are numerous references 
>in Queen E's Unl of various colors of cloth of gold and silver. I can 
>think of 'Tawney cloth of gold'and 'purple cloth of gold' as two 
>specifically, but there are pages of references to what I have always 
>thought of as cloth with a metallic thread on one direction (weft?) and 
>colored silk in the other direction (warp?) giving a changeable look 
>depending on how you saw the fabric. I'm away from my books right now, but 
>anyone with a Queen E's handy can look up the various descriptions of the 
>fabrics.


Shot silk is also called "changeable" - as in Shakespeare. Can't remember 
the full quote but he talks of making a doublet of changeable taffeta 
(which would have been silk.)

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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>From: Stephanie Smith <sismith42@yahoo.com>
>Why do you think this? Certainly there have been
>points in history in which military "style" has
>influenced civilian style (eg: late 1990's, when camos
>were cool, Regency/Napoleonic times, when ladies wore
>Scarlet outfits with gold frogging-- or is that
>another urban legend I believe in? *g*)... why would
>influence due to function be so very different?
>...

Simply as an example of military wear influencing style (there are many 
others):  The introduction of the raised stacked heel in Europe for men's 
shoes around 1600 seems to have been brought in with the fashion of 
emulating the Turkish riding boot.  Women's shoes traditionally have a 
carved solid core heel with a heel cover, probably ultimately derived from 
the patten.

Then of course, there are modern cargo pants -- those pockets were 
originally put there so soldiers could store more "stuff", like grenades and 
amunition, in easy to reach places...  At least that's what *I* used them 
for :)

Marc


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths, dogs and petticoats (just for fun...)
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In a message dated 6/2/2005 7:22:31 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:
I wouldn't want to carry a critter around with me, but a half dozen cats 
beats an electric blanket any cold night!!
Apparently, Mary Queen of Scots brought her little dog along with her to her 
execution hidden under her petticoat.  No one knew it was there until her head 
was removed, upon which the dog became extremely distressed and began 
wailing.  This is not an urban legend, I believe, as I came across it in a history of 
the Tudor family by a reputable historian.  But who knows?  Cheryl Odom
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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>From: Stephanie Smith <sismith42@yahoo.com>
>Why do you think this? Certainly there have been
>points in history in which military "style" has
>influenced civilian style (eg: late 1990's, when camos
>were cool, Regency/Napoleonic times, when ladies wore
>Scarlet outfits with gold frogging-- or is that
>another urban legend I believe in? *g*)... why would
>influence due to function be so very different?
>...

Certainly military style has influenced civilian styles in many times and places. But a good many costume practices are demonstrably awkward, inconvenient and impractical, and people still do them because they're "fashionable." So explanations of clothing bits that claim a specific practical reason (such as interfering with drawing a sword) are always worth looking at twice before assuming they're true (starting with asking whether the clothing innovation and the supposed practical reason are from the same time period...). 

And of course, some _are_ true. :)

As for the continued popularity of hanging pockets even after built-in pockets were invented -- if I had to speculate, I'd say one major advantage for the fashion-conscious is that they don't affect the "hang" of the garment as much. Putting something heavy or large in a built-in pocket can create a visible bulge, if one cares about such things. With a hanging pocket, if the garments aren't closely fitted you can practically carry a partridge in a pear tree without it showing nearly as much :) My Elizabethan farthingale has pockets built into it that hang *inside* the hoops, for that reason, and they hold my checkbook and wallet, handkerchiefs, spectacles, pens, etc. etc. (not that I can document farthingale pockets, but they're certainly practical).



____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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I am traveling right now without that book... I will check it when I return in mid-June... I read the entire book and my impression was that there are actually pockets and not just slits, but I could be wrong.  Gytha

Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:On Wednesday 01 June 2005 6:46 pm, Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:

[snip]

> I can say that in the book "Woven into the Earth" 
> there are pictures of actual 12-13th century gowns with side pockets...
> some in the gore seam and some in the side seam. 
[rest snipped]

Where? I have "Woven Into the Earth" and I don't see anything that 
demonstrates the existence of modern, integral-to-the-garment pockets. The 
discussion on p. 94 does refer to "pocket slits", but that could refer to 
slits made so that pouches or pockets on a string (such as the 18th c ones) 
worn underneath could be easily reached.

-- 
Cathy Raymond 

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy. I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth. So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Quoting Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>:


> As for the continued popularity of hanging pockets even after 
> built-in pockets were invented -- if I had to speculate, I'd say one 
> major advantage for the fashion-conscious is that they don't affect 
> the "hang" of the garment as much. Putting something heavy or large 
> in a built-in pocket can create a visible bulge, if one cares about 
> such things. With a hanging pocket, if the garments aren't closely 
> fitted you can practically carry a partridge in a pear tree without 
> it showing nearly as much :) My Elizabethan farthingale has pockets 
> built into it that hang *inside* the hoops, for that reason, and they 
> hold my checkbook and wallet, handkerchiefs, spectacles, pens, etc. 
> etc. (not that I can document farthingale pockets, but they're 
> certainly practical).

OOh, tell me more!  This sounds like a much better solution in
some ways than a belt pouch!

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 10:16:07 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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>When male and female button direction was discussed on this list several 
>years ago, I quoted the assertion from a boys' book of my father's, circa 
>1917, that men's coats buttoned left over right so the sword would not 
>catch in the opening. It was agreed that this doesn't make sense - when 
>you draw a sword, you don't pull it across your front.

I thought a "cross-draw" did exactly that.  This is also why, I heard, the 
woman walks on the man's right, so he can draw his sword and not clip her 
with the point.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 13:43:08 -0400
From: Christine Robb <cedar@interlog.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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On Thu, Jun 02, 2005 at 09:13:53AM -0700, Chris Laning wrote:
> As for the continued popularity of hanging pockets even after
> built-in pockets were invented -- if I had to speculate, I'd say one
> major advantage for the fashion-conscious is that they don't affect
> the "hang" of the garment as much.

Would a hanging pocket be harder to pick, and/or more noticeable to
the wearer?


Christine

---
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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 12:42:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hello,

   You do pull a sword across your "front" when drawing.  They are commonly worn by a right hander on the left hip.  I still doubt that this is really the reason though.  You pull it across your frontage, BUT not across your actual front.  (i.e. It is not drug across the chest itself).  It seels very unlikely that reversed buttoning would affect the draw at all.  It definetly would not affect the draw more than baldrics and other equipment often worn alongside swords.  Personally the only clothes I recall ever having a sword tangle with has been paned trunkhose!

  Where a women walks in relation to a man varies with location and time, and occasionally social status.  For instance today she should be away from the street, which may or may not be the right side.  Again, a womens presence on my right or left would not affect my sword draw with any of my different period rigs.

Cheers,

Ron Carnegie

>I thought a "cross-draw" did exactly that.  This is also why, I heard, the 
>woman walks on the man's right, so he can draw his sword and not clip her 
>with the point.
>
>
>        CarolynKayta Barrows
>dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>          www.FunStuft.com
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Brocade loops
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I have some chinese brocade fabric and the pattern I
am using calls for very thin loops for buttons. 
However the brocade shreds every time I try to turn
out the loop.  Is there a better way to turn it?  Or
perhaps a better way to sew the loop that doesn't
involve turning it out?


"Pain or damage don't end the world, or despair or f*ckin' beatings. The world ends when your dead. Until then, you got more punishment in store. Stand it like a man and give some back"

-Al Swearengen, Deadwood
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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At 13:43 02/06/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>On Thu, Jun 02, 2005 at 09:13:53AM -0700, Chris Laning wrote:
> > As for the continued popularity of hanging pockets even after
> > built-in pockets were invented -- if I had to speculate, I'd say one
> > major advantage for the fashion-conscious is that they don't affect
> > the "hang" of the garment as much.
>
>Would a hanging pocket be harder to pick, and/or more noticeable to
>the wearer?



I defy anyone to pick my pocket when tucked into my pocket hoops, covered 
by my cotton petticoat (yes, I know) and my fancy petticoat, and my dress! 
You are more likely to lose it because the tie breaks or becomes loose.

"Lucy Locket had a pocket
Kitty Fisher found it
Not a penny was there in it
But a ribbon round it"

Scurrilous verse about a lady of pleasure, mid 18th century. There is a 
?Gainsborough painting of Kitty Fisher, who I believe was an actress.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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I like to use pockets in my underskirt for the same reason (YMMV).  I've 
found that a vertically-placed pocket opening is most practical (a 
horizontal pocket tends to gape open, risking loss of contents, even under 
my skirt).

Basically, I've not seen any good evidence that noble women (which is what 
I portray at our faire) regularly wore any sort of pouch.  Plus a pouch 
leaves you open to pickpockets (or cutpurses).  And I have two fairly 
capacious pockets into which I can put whatever I need to keep on me but is 
not "period".

Joan Jurancich
aka Mistress Blanche Parry, Chief Gentlewoman of the Queen's Bedchamber

At 12:24 PM 6/2/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Quoting Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>:
>
>
>>As for the continued popularity of hanging pockets even after built-in 
>>pockets were invented -- if I had to speculate, I'd say one major 
>>advantage for the fashion-conscious is that they don't affect the "hang" 
>>of the garment as much. Putting something heavy or large in a built-in 
>>pocket can create a visible bulge, if one cares about such things. With a 
>>hanging pocket, if the garments aren't closely fitted you can practically 
>>carry a partridge in a pear tree without it showing nearly as much :) My 
>>Elizabethan farthingale has pockets built into it that hang *inside* the 
>>hoops, for that reason, and they hold my checkbook and wallet, 
>>handkerchiefs, spectacles, pens, etc. etc. (not that I can document 
>>farthingale pockets, but they're certainly practical).
>
>OOh, tell me more!  This sounds like a much better solution in
>some ways than a belt pouch!
>
>Jerusha
>-----
>Susan Farmer

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20756740.1117653829300.JavaMail.root@wamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net><429E1067.4090202@reddawn.net><200506012120.12320.cathy@thyrsus.com>
	<00f501c56778$02a659c0$0400a8c0@compaqub>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  first bras (was: Costuming myths)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 13:01:03 -0500
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Status: RO

Well, here's one I hadn't noticed before (click to enlarge):
http://haabet.dk/patent/43321/index.html
I think _this_ would have to be the first bra, from 1864 (unless you count that regency thingy, or the 18thC really-high-waisted bust corsets).  Can we CRINGE?  
Actually, I've seen mention of one from 1863, patented by Luman L. Chapman, but have yet to find a picture.

Many 1880s-1890s 'health corsets' were basically bras with unboned (though not unstiffened) waists attached:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/c1882-2.gif

Marie Tucek's 1893 bust supporter is commonly called the first bra:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/1893braMTucek494397.gif

Most of the earliest separate bust support originated from a desire for a more attractive figure, leading to the 'bust perfector' patented 1899:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/kabobust.jpg
(From the propaganda: "It is an efficient bust support, and will be hailed with delight by the athletic woman who wants the waist entirely free."

This one, from 1909, shows the evolution of the bust form into the brassiere:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/us000933265-001.gif
As does this, from 1914 (click to enlarge):
http://haabet.dk/patent/1231011/index.html

Here are a couple of those bust forms, both c1910:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/corset1.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/vec289.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/vec289a.jpg

(And for fun:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/ebay30373.jpg )

But for a completely modern-looking, can't-deny-it's-a-bra bra, here's an ad from c1904-05:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/oct4braad.jpg 

Here's the patent for the famous 1914 Mary Phelps bra, which is a lot less bra-like than several earlier inventions:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/mary_phelps_jacob_bra-v.jpg

Incidentally, a company (Charles R. DeBevoise Company) first labelled a bust support garment 'brassiere' in 1904. Vogue first used the word brassiere for a bust support garment in 1907, and it first appeared in the OED in 1912.  This means that Mary Phelps, contrary to her claims, did not coin the term in 1913-14.

-E House, recovering corset nut
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: RE: spiders..Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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I had been given the name Spider Woman or Starspider by an elder because of
my unique ability to attract spiders especially but not exclusively when out
doors. Five minutes after I have my tent up there will be at least one
spider with their web up inside it.

De

-----Original Message-----
Oh, I agree!  But as a girl, I ended up getting bitten by a spider 5 summers
in a row, so they are not allowed in close proximity.  If they stay where
they belong, they can merrily spin whatever webs they like...

--
Slan go foill
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri

Emer's Needle Wares


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Status: RO

Hi Melody,
In 17th and 18th century there was a big industry of gloves in a city in 
Denmark called Randers. They were quite famous because they also had smell 
in them. They were perfumed.
I have often wished, that i could smell those perfumed gloves, but alas only 
my imagination will perhaps get a glimse of the real scent.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melody Watts" <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 6:50 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)


> My personal experience,: I still have a pair of kid
> gloves I first acquired at about age of 6 or 8. These
> were my "church" gloves. I took those poor crumpled
> gloves out the other day, worked them in my hands,
> softening the skin,warming them, and "worked" my now
> adult hands into them. only a slight "strain' showed
> at the thumb seam line.
> So ,when they say the ladies "worked" their hands
> into the gloves for some times before going out,it is
> true.
> The reason why the gloves are cut so small,_I_ think
> is the fact that they do indeed stretch out quite a
> bit after warming and wearing them...if they were cut
> large to begin with you'd have probably lost them off
> your hands. We don't have the patience to smooth,
> stretch,smooth ,stretch our selves into those gloves.
> They do look lovely when finally on, and fit like
> surgical gloves(commercial mode: "so flexible you can
> pick up a dime")
> I have a modern pair I bought from a lady "4 in hand"
> coach driver, kid skin,bitty, and smeling wonderful.
> Her instructions were the same, "warm ,stretch, ,put
> on, warm,stretch,warm, tug a bit, repeat"
> And a note: my adult hands resemble "donald Duck's
> feet,palm is almost perfectly square-about 3"x3" with
> longish fingers, ...not dainty by far...the gloves are
> about 2" across.
>
> --- Sandra Olsen <sandraleigh@abraxis.com> wrote:
>
>> Small hands may indeed be prized, but stuffing ones
>> hands into
>> child-sized gloves seems a little extreme in pursuit
>> of fashion, rather
>> like tightlacing. Surely married, settled women
>> might give in and admit
>> their real size instead of blowing the seams out of
>> every pair.
>>
>> I have very long thin hands and I'm used to fingers
>> on gloves being too
>> short, but surely I can't be so much of an ogre that
>> not even the tips
>> of my fingers will fit!
>>
>> Maybe there's an expert out there who has yet to
>> weigh in?
>>
>>
>> >
>> > That said, I wonder why I can't ever find
>> Victorian-era gloves that
>> > aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even
>> among the kid-glove
>> > wearing crowd?
>> >
>>
>> I think that I've read (in that famous 'somewhere')
>> that small hands
>> were prized so a woman would wear gloves that were
>> as small as
>> possible -- even if it made her hands look like
>> stuffed sausages
>> because they were so tight.
>>
>> Onaree
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s29ed5ad.050@CSV6.derby.ac.uk> <429EF881.8040404@thibault.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
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Hi Cynthia,
I think this is the case.
I could also imagine that if you did not wash your hair for about 14 days, 
( i have never tryed this :-)) it would get quite oily, and if you had some 
long curls, it would grease your clothes on the shoulders. The powder would 
eat all that grease, and kind of protect your clothes, the powder
could just be brushed away with a cloth brush.
I think there is a quotation in Norah Waughs the cut of womens clothes, 
about this with the tall hairdresses, that it was taken down again after 3 
weeks, i must try and find this and post it later.
There also was some that invented fleece traps to lye into the tall hairdos, 
but they didnt work.....

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1133266075.4ba27d@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys


> So what do y'all figure the powder in the hair was for?  To keep it from 
> looking oily?
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>
> "Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
> I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
> Get me a steam drill too!"
>    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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Subject: [h-cost] Dye Colors
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I ran the "rust brown" job, which came out rust orange with 3 cups of 
salt in a 15-gallon washer, with the full amount of salt, no other 
changes to the materials or process. It came out one shade darker, and 
still dark reddish orange rather than reddish brown as on the dye chart. 

As for dye jobs not looking like the chart, though--I recently got a 
number of printed charts for Procion MX dyes. One is the manufacturer's 
chart, the others are from various vendors displaying the dyes they 
sell.  For most colors, ones that are supposed to be the same color 
according to the labels, there is significant difference among all the 
printed charts. 

So who the heck knows, I suppose every dye job is a surprise and if you 
don't like it you dye over it.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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Date: Fri, 03 Jun 2005 09:42:53 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>On Thursday 02 June 2005 2:54 am, Stephanie Smith wrote:
>[snip]
>  
>
>>Adele wrote:
>>I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a
>>picture of a pair of Venetians with a pocket set into
>>the side seam. This is _not_ to say that pockets on
>>separate bands didn't stay popular for at least
>>another 300 years.
>>    
>>
>
>I grabbed for my copy when I read that.  Actually, Arnold describes two pair 
>of  upper hose with pockets, both dated to the late 1610s.  
>
>  
>
I stand (slightly) corrected :)

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Date: Fri, 03 Jun 2005 09:43:25 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> So what do y'all figure the powder in the hair was for?  To keep it 
> from looking oily?
>
I don't think it was "for" anything, except the look.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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"Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com> wrote:
>> My Elizabethan farthingale has pockets 
>> built into it that hang *inside* the hoops, for that reason, and they 
>> hold my checkbook and wallet, handkerchiefs, spectacles, pens, etc. 
>> etc. (not that I can document farthingale pockets, but they're 
>> certainly practical).
>
>OOh, tell me more!  This sounds like a much better solution in
>some ways than a belt pouch!

As best I can describe it without waving my hands around in the air: I constructed my farthingale as a gored petticoat with two hoops: one near the bottom hem (maybe 6 or 8 inches off the ground), the other about a foot higher. 

The waistand is in two separate pieces, front and back, meeting (and fastening) at both side seams. The side seams of the farthingale are left open all the way down to fingertip level.

Each pocket is made from two rectangular pieces about 12 inches tall and maybe 8 inches wide (I don't have it to look at right now, because it's with my seamstress, serving as a pattern for a new version). The front of the pocket is actually divided into two tall skinny pieces joined by a vertical seam. The bottom six inches or so of that seam is sewed shut. The rest is left open and the edges finished. The front and back of the pocket are then seamed together on three sides, with the top left open (and hemmed of course). It actually looks a lot like an 18th-century rectangular hanging pocket, except that it's open at the top as well as partway down the front.

The pocket is attached to the farthingale by sewing one side of the open front seam of the pocket to the corresponding side of the open side seam of the farthingale, near the bottom. Then the other side of the front seam of the pocket is sewed to the other side of the opening. 

|----------|      < - - -  top of pocket
|\          /|
| \        / |
|  \      /  |      < - - - - "V" of pocket opening edges sewed to farthingale opening edges
|   \    /   |
|    \  /    |
|     \/     |      < - - - - bottom of pocket opening
|      :     |                    = bottom of open side seam of farthingale
|      :     |
|      :     |
|      :     |      < - - - - hidden part of pocket hanging down 
|      :     |                    inside farthingale
------------

The whole thing is finished off with a ribbon tie at each top corner of the pocket. 

When I put the farthingale on, the open side seam lets me put the whole thing on easily. Then I load up the pockets and tie the ribbon ties at the pocket top together. On the outside of the farthingale, it's easy to reach into the pocket through the vertical open slit, but because the slit is tied shut at the top, things don't fall out.

Hope this is clear enough -- I've been trying to write this with about six people talking in my ear :)

As I say, I have no documentation for this sort of thing, but from a practical standpoint it's worked VERY well for me. Renaissance Faire is the sort of event where you pretty much have to keep your valuables ON your person, since there's seldom a secure place to leave them, and this lets me carry my wallet, checkbook, et cetera instead of having to put them in a basket where I'd have to watch them constantly.

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  2 17:45:38 2005
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Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 17:42:17 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brocade loops
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Oh, I am sorry you are going through this grief.  I had the same  problem 
with a gown that I made years ago and finally wound up using a cord out  of a 
coordinating colour to make the loops with.  
 
Good luck, whatever you decide to do.
 
:)
~Kimberley
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Date: Fri, 03 Jun 2005 09:44:50 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Lalah wrote:

>QE 1 was very proud of her height and Mary Queen of Scots was almost six feet tall.  
>

Do you have a source for that information about Mary's height?  I've 
heard that she was taller than Elizabeth, but that's about all.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Quoting Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>:

> "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com> wrote:
>>> My Elizabethan farthingale has pockets
>>> built into it that hang *inside* the hoops, for that reason, and they
>>> hold my checkbook and wallet, handkerchiefs, spectacles, pens, etc.
>>> etc. (not that I can document farthingale pockets, but they're
>>> certainly practical).
>>
>> OOh, tell me more!  This sounds like a much better solution in
>> some ways than a belt pouch!
>
> As best I can describe it without waving my hands around in the air: 
> I constructed my farthingale as a gored petticoat with two hoops: one 
> near the bottom hem (maybe 6 or 8 inches off the ground), the other 
> about a foot higher.
>

Girl, (she said gesturing wildly with *both* hands) You mean you can't
talk without waiing your hands?  (both hands are now on hips) Who ever
heard of such-a-thang!

:-D

I think I can figure it out.  I'll let you know if I get confused.

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>
>> When male and female button direction was discussed on this list 
>> several years ago, I quoted the assertion from a boys' book of my 
>> father's, circa 1917, that men's coats buttoned left over right so 
>> the sword would not catch in the opening. It was agreed that this 
>> doesn't make sense - when you draw a sword, you don't pull it across 
>> your front.
>
>
> I thought a "cross-draw" did exactly that.  This is also why, I heard, 
> the woman walks on the man's right, so he can draw his sword and not 
> clip her with the point.
>
Which still doesn't explain it, since (a) the vast majority of men never 
owned a sword and (b) the _consistent_ use of buttons came into being 
with late19th-20th-21st century ready-to-wear clothes-- some time after 
sword-carrying went out of vogue.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Christine Robb wrote:

>On Thu, Jun 02, 2005 at 09:13:53AM -0700, Chris Laning wrote:
>  
>
>>As for the continued popularity of hanging pockets even after
>>built-in pockets were invented -- if I had to speculate, I'd say one
>>major advantage for the fashion-conscious is that they don't affect
>>the "hang" of the garment as much.
>>    
>>
>
>Would a hanging pocket be harder to pick, and/or more noticeable to
>the wearer?
>
>  
>

Hard to say, and I'm not sure whether pockets tended to be used as 
purses per se, or more as hold-alls.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 16:12:46 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brocade loops
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Hi,

Here's a couple ideas....

fuse a feather weight interfacing and see if that helps prevent 
shredding, or

Don't try to turn it out....  fold the fabric and sew from the outside

fold lengthwise edges to center
fold again lengthwise
sew down the open side with small stitches

Althea


On Thursday, June 2, 2005, at 10:47 AM, Rachel Hillen wrote:

> I have some chinese brocade fabric and the pattern I
> am using calls for very thin loops for buttons.
> However the brocade shreds every time I try to turn
> out the loop.  Is there a better way to turn it?  Or
> perhaps a better way to sew the loop that doesn't
> involve turning it out?
>
>
> "Pain or damage don't end the world, or despair or f*ckin' beatings. 
> The world ends when your dead. Until then, you got more punishment in 
> store. Stand it like a man and give some back"
>
> -Al Swearengen, Deadwood
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Reunite Pangaea!

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
people.
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Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
In-Reply-To: <429F90E2.2040502@paradise.net.nz>
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At 11:06 03/06/2005 +1200, you wrote:
>Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>
>>
>>>When male and female button direction was discussed on this list several 
>>>years ago, I quoted the assertion from a boys' book of my father's, 
>>>circa 1917, that men's coats buttoned left over right so the sword would 
>>>not catch in the opening. It was agreed that this doesn't make sense - 
>>>when you draw a sword, you don't pull it across your front.
>>
>>
>>I thought a "cross-draw" did exactly that.  This is also why, I heard, 
>>the woman walks on the man's right, so he can draw his sword and not clip 
>>her with the point.
>Which still doesn't explain it, since (a) the vast majority of men never 
>owned a sword and (b) the _consistent_ use of buttons came into being with 
>late19th-20th-21st century ready-to-wear clothes-- some time after 
>sword-carrying went out of vogue.


I wonder whether it is just that the manufacturers of clothing determined 
which way they should go, as a way of differentiating ladies' clothes from 
men's when cutting by a machine, i.e. a band saw.

Also, when I used to work in the theatre, it was easy to fasten ladies' 
clothes right over left, using some tension to fasten therefore pulling 
towards "my" right, whereas fastening men's clothes *from* my right to left 
did not need the same tension as a rule. I am not sure I have explained 
this quite how I meant!

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Snip
> Which still doesn't explain it, since (a) the vast majority of men never 
> owned a sword and (b) the _consistent_ use of buttons came into being with 
> late19th-20th-21st century ready-to-wear clothes-- some time after 
> sword-carrying went out of vogue.
>
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres

I find buttons used very consistantly on mens doublets and coats throughout 
the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries and most gentlemen of the nobility did use 
and wear swords until fairly late in the 18th century.

Melusine
(who has just finished putting 48 buttons and buttonholes on yet another 
early 17th century doublet.) 

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From: "Carolann Schmitt" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Brocade loops
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 20:13:06 -0400
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Are you cutting the strips on the bias? Fabric cut on the bias does not
shred or fray as much as fabric cut on the straight grain.

Another alternative is to cord the loops:
-  Cut and join the bias strips until you have one long bias piece.
-  Cut a piece of cord at least twice as long as the bias strip plus 6"-10".
The cord should be slightly narrower than the desired finished width.
-  Fold the bias strip around the cord wrong side out. Leave a 6" tail of
cord sticking out one end of the bias.
-  Using a zipper or cording foot (or do it by hand) and beginning at the
end with the 6" tail, stitch close to the cord. As you approach the other
end of the bias strip, flare the stitching out into the seam allowance. Then
stitch across the flared end of the bias strip, securing it to the cord.
-  Trim seam allowance to 1/8"
-  Grasp the short tail sticking out of the open end of the bias with one
hand.
-  With the opposite hand, gently work the bias strip down over the other
end of the cord, turning the bias strip right side out as you go. Once you
get it started it will turn quite easily.
-  You can either leave the cord in place, or snip the end where you sewed
the bias strip to the cord and pull it out.

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006



On Thursday, June 2, 2005, at 10:47 AM, Rachel Hillen wrote:

> I have some chinese brocade fabric and the pattern I
> am using calls for very thin loops for buttons.
> However the brocade shreds every time I try to turn
> out the loop.  Is there a better way to turn it?  Or
> perhaps a better way to sew the loop that doesn't
> involve turning it out?




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Surely you all know that the poet Bobbie Burns wrote a whole poem about seeing a head louse on a lady in church.  Remember the line "Ah would some power the Giftie gi us to see oursels as ithers see us" from said poem. (Please excuse the spelling errors).

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 19:55:12 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)


>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
there?  (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
have been head lice.)  I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then).  I later heard the same 
story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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             (((  <> ))))
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Subject: [h-cost] Crannach and Heads 
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Hi fllks sorry for the late replys... I've been out to the beach and fell 
behind.

Crannach - Interesting personality.  Most of his 'religiously themed' 
paintings have to do with the juxtaposition of beauty and danger.  There is 
an interesting exhibit right now at the Cornell Art Museum exploring this 
theme.  And it features two of Crannach's most famous paintings  "Judith" 
and "Lucretia".    He was definately exploring the psyche of danger to 
others and to self - in opposition to the myth of female frailty.  One of 
the reasons he is one of my favorite artists of the time.

Mari  / Bridgette


Lahlah wrote:
>What is with that artist and his thing for heads on platters?  GROSS!
>Costumes are neat though.
>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Will you be staff, or paying customer? If staff, bring along enough
documentation to convince your wardrobe dept.; if customer, wear what you
like!
Betsy (been on both sides)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 2:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)

<<<<"Only kings and queens could wear purple." (Demonstrably not true, but
because it's a convention at many Renaissance Faires, a lot of people
believe it.)>>>>>>

Hmmmm. I've got this lovely simple patterned purple material...hmmmm. I be
going in Sept to a RenFest....hmmmm. Do I want to disturb the bovine fecal
matter? :)

De



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Subject: [h-cost] RE: on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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>From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
>When male and female button direction was discussed on this list several 
>years ago, I
>quoted the assertion from a boys' book of my father's, circa 1917, that 
>men's coats
>buttoned left over right so the sword would not catch in the opening. It 
>was agreed that
>this doesn't make sense - when you draw a sword, you don't pull it across 
>your front.
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor

In no way to support the whole button issue, but doesn't this really depend 
on the type of sword and how it's hung?  If the sword is hung on the left, 
to use it in your right hand, you are going to have to pull it across your 
front at some point.

I suspect that with the buttons, men's clothes developed that way to 
facilite sticking the right hand under the coat or shirt, particularly when 
storing junk in your clothes (wallets, spectacles, car keys, knives, guns, 
nuclear explosive detonators, whatever).  Women, I would suppose, have those 
separate pockets, reticules and later purses to stick their stuff in, and 
therefore are less restricted on which way their buttons face.

>Adele wrote:
>I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a
>picture of a pair of Venetians with a pocket set into
>the side seam. This is _not_ to say that pockets on
>separate bands didn't stay popular for at least
>another 300 years.
>I reply:
>Awesome! I have Renaissance-minded, pocket-loving
>(addicted?) friends who will be thrilled when they
>learn about this! (I, too, believed in the "fichets,
>not pockets for pre-modern days" myth.) Out of
>curiosity, why did the "old" method stick around for
>so long?

In Henry VIII's armory there is reputedly a revolver that is very similar to 
the Colt pattern in design and breech loading weapons designed for paper 
cartridges.  Some things just are ahead of their time and so are so atypical 
that they probably shouldn't be used to represent the norm of a period.


Marc


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Here's another one: "All monks go barefoot and wear rope tied around their waists."

(Plain leather belts are actually the norm, as are shoes. Franciscans, and a few other obscure groups, are definitely the exceptions, though for some reason they have a much more prominent public image; they _do_ wear a cord rather than a belt and go barefoot or wear sandals. You could argue that technically they are friars rather than monks, however.)

I also can't count how many "monks" or "friars" I've seen wearing habits that are too skimpy, too lightweight, ragged, or made out of cotton -- but those are a different problem. :)

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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  Emma Thompson did a journal about the filming of "Remains of the Day."  
One of the consultants for the film, coaching people in how to be butlers & 
footmen, said that the footmen at Buckingham Palace had still worn powdered 
hair until QE II took over and put a stop to it.  They were using white 
flour at the time.   Thompson's comment was "think of the hoovering!"

Laura Dickerson


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Quoting Cheryldee@aol.com:

> In a message dated 6/2/2005 7:22:31 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
> lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:
> I wouldn't want to carry a critter around with me, but a half dozen cats
> beats an electric blanket any cold night!!

And then there's this painting by Holbein of a woman with her pet squirrel --
notice the chain that she's holding .....

http://www.wga.hu/art/h/holbein/hans_y/1528/6lady.jpg

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  metallic lace
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 21:24:42 +0200
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Hi,
I totally agree with you, this must be a bobbin lace in goldthread.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] metallic lace


> There's a portrait by Corneille de Lyon from 1530-40 of a woman with what 
> I can only assume is some sort of metallic lace at the neckline:
> http://www.wga.hu/html/c/corneill/p_woman.html
> (If anyone can think of something _other_ than metallic lace that this 
> could be, I'd like very much to know!)
>
> -E House
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Fri, 03 Jun 2005 09:42:08 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Kate M Bunting wrote:

>Adele replied:
>I think nearly anything that posits a relationship
>between weapons use and ordinary clothes can be
>dismissed.
>
>I comment:
>Why do you think this? Certainly there have been
>points in history in which military "style" has
>influenced civilian style (eg: late 1990's, when camos
>were cool, Regency/Napoleonic times, when ladies wore
>Scarlet outfits with gold frogging-- or is that
>another urban legend I believe in? *g*)... why would
>influence due to function be so very different?
>  
>
In short, bucause the civilians making and wearing the clothes knew how 
swish military uniforms looked and wanted to copy the style,  but knew 
very little about the functional aspect and had very little use for them.

Sort of explains why camoflage trousers go in and out of style but 
helmets never really catch on :)

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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This discussion shows exactly why I love sideless surcoats. Belt the
undergown with your pouch on it, throw on the overdress, and no one will
notice unless you're carrying around something particularly bulky.

Did they do it? I have no idea. Mightn't it be rather hard to prove?

Arlys

On Thu, 02 Jun 2005 10:49:16 -0700 Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
writes:
> I like to use pockets in my underskirt for the same reason (YMMV).  
> I've 
> found that a vertically-placed pocket opening is most practical (a 
> horizontal pocket tends to gape open, risking loss of contents, even 
> under 
> my skirt).
> 
> Basically, I've not seen any good evidence that noble women (which 
> is what 
> I portray at our faire) regularly wore any sort of pouch.  Plus a 
> pouch 
> leaves you open to pickpockets (or cutpurses).  And I have two 
> fairly 
> capacious pockets into which I can put whatever I need to keep on me 
> but is 
> not "period".
> 
> Joan Jurancich
> aka Mistress Blanche Parry, Chief Gentlewoman of the Queen's 
> Bedchamber
> 
> At 12:24 PM 6/2/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> >Quoting Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>:
> >
> >
> >>As for the continued popularity of hanging pockets even after 
> built-in 
> >>pockets were invented -- if I had to speculate, I'd say one major 
> >>advantage for the fashion-conscious is that they don't affect the 
> "hang" 
> >>of the garment as much. Putting something heavy or large in a 
> built-in 
> >>pocket can create a visible bulge, if one cares about such things. 
> With a 
> >>hanging pocket, if the garments aren't closely fitted you can 
> practically 
> >>carry a partridge in a pear tree without it showing nearly as much 
> :) My 
> >>Elizabethan farthingale has pockets built into it that hang 
> *inside* the 
> >>hoops, for that reason, and they hold my checkbook and wallet, 
> >>handkerchiefs, spectacles, pens, etc. etc. (not that I can 
> document 
> >>farthingale pockets, but they're certainly practical).
> >
> >OOh, tell me more!  This sounds like a much better solution in
> >some ways than a belt pouch!
> >
> >Jerusha
> >-----
> >Susan Farmer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Metal braid? might be "lace"?
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There are some images on this page 
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/w/weyden/rogier/02stluke/ which in some 
versions, notably the St. Petersburg one, look remarkably like metallic 
braid to me. In England, metallic braid for uniforms is still made by 
"lacemen" and is still called lace.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
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> > So what do y'all figure the powder in the hair was for?  To keep it
> > from looking oily?
> >
> I don't think it was "for" anything, except the look.

Depending on what the powder was, and considering this was the 17thC (1662
you see natural hair colours in wigs and hair styles, I haven't seen
powdered, has anyone else?) it could be for oilyness.

I have a few annuals from the start of the 20thC that advocate using orris
root powder as a dry hair bath.  As far as I know that is an old practice
and may well have been in practice in the 17thC.

I used powder to damp down the effects of oily hair as a teen. I was washing
my hair every 2nd day as it was. Don't have that issue now funnily enough;)

I think I have the article online still... it's on tripod so beware the pop
ups.
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/titanic/hair.htm
bottom right link "how to keep the hair pretty"
I thought people might like to see the hair styles as well;)

"If the hair is still oily and lies flat on the head, sprinkle a little
powdered orris-root on the hair, then brush it out thoroughly. This will
make the hair soft and fluffy, will polish and gloss it, and the odour from
the orris-root is delightfully refreshing and pleasant."

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylrog@fone.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye Colors
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 18:15:38 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Dyeing is such an art.  Apparently there is a lengthy weekend or week 
long class that one of the national dye experts gives in nothing but 
mixing dye colors.  I usually just like to experiment and see what 
happens, but it is rather frustrating when you actually have to come up 
with an exact shade of a color or when you have to duplicate a color 
from a swatch.  But my dyeing is usually just for belly dance veils and 
I love to see how they will turn out differently from one to the next.

Sylrog

On Jun 2, 2005, at 1:57 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> I ran the "rust brown" job, which came out rust orange with 3 cups of 
> salt in a 15-gallon washer, with the full amount of salt, no other 
> changes to the materials or process. It came out one shade darker, and 
> still dark reddish orange rather than reddish brown as on the dye 
> chart.
> As for dye jobs not looking like the chart, though--I recently got a 
> number of printed charts for Procion MX dyes. One is the 
> manufacturer's chart, the others are from various vendors displaying 
> the dyes they sell.  For most colors, ones that are supposed to be the 
> same color according to the labels, there is significant difference 
> among all the printed charts.
> So who the heck knows, I suppose every dye job is a surprise and if 
> you don't like it you dye over it.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Corson


I did a Google search and found several books by him at Amazon, including  
this one.  Very rich, but look as though they would be more than worth the  
investment for someone who was seriously interested in going the extra  mile.
 
:)
~Kimberley
 
 
In a message dated 6/2/2005 5:27:17 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

There is  a good book on Hair and hairdressing, probably out of 
print, by Richard  

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michaela wrote:
>>>So what do y'all figure the powder in the hair was for?  To keep it
>>>from looking oily?

>>I don't think it was "for" anything, except the look.

> Depending on what the powder was, and considering this was the 17thC (1662
> you see natural hair colours in wigs and hair styles, I haven't seen
> powdered, has anyone else?) it could be for oilyness.

Pepys said "that I am resolved to try how I can keep my head dry without 
powder"

Thus the powder is a solution to the problem of non-dryness.  But does 
he mean he's sweaty, or he's got oily hair, or something else?


--
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Want to see my Brass Rubbings?"
     "Mediaevalist on Board" license plate frames
           at http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  metallic lace-thankyou!
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Yeah!  Coool!  Thanks guys!

Sg

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> I totally agree with you, this must be a bobbin lace in goldthread.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 3:33 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] metallic lace
>
>
>> There's a portrait by Corneille de Lyon from 1530-40 of a woman with 
>> what I can only assume is some sort of metallic lace at the neckline:
>> http://www.wga.hu/html/c/corneill/p_woman.html
>> (If anyone can think of something _other_ than metallic lace that 
>> this could be, I'd like very much to know!)
>>
>> -E House
>> _______________________________________________
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Copper lace.
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Thank you M. Stewart!  Can you tell me which Theater, where?  Thanks

M Stewart wrote:

>
>
>
> Copper lace ca. 1560.  from Theater Inventory listings
>
>
>
>> Hi all you Lacers out there.  What is the earliest evidence you have 
>> seen of any kind of lace made from metallic threads?
>>
>> Thanks, Sg
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From: "Katie Lewis" <katie_lewis@lycos.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 21:04:50 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Marc wrote:
> 
> I suspect that with the buttons, men's clothes developed that way 
> to facilite sticking the right hand under the coat or shirt, 
> particularly when storing junk in your clothes (wallets, 
> spectacles, car keys, knives, guns, nuclear explosive detonators, 
> whatever).  Women, I would suppose, have those separate pockets, 
> reticules and later purses to stick their stuff in, and therefore 
> are less restricted on which way their buttons face.

Except that a large number of pre-20th century *women's* garments fasten left on top.  The switch to right on top for women seems to happen in the early 20th century.  One of the times that this was discussed someone cited a article in _Costume_ that made a pretty good case for gender specific buttoning having showed up first with ready-made women's shirtwaists, in the 1890's and then become "the way things are" in the next few decades.

-Katie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
> In Henry VIII's armory there is reputedly a revolver that is very similar 
> to the Colt pattern in design and breech loading weapons designed for 
> paper cartridges.  Some things just are ahead of their time and so are so 
> atypical that they probably shouldn't be used to represent the norm of a 
> period.

I would REALLY love to know more about this--can you give me any key words 
or point me towards any resources?

-E House 

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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Scotch guard and dyeing
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Hi,
A question please, does anyone know if an application
of Scotch Guard Fabric treatment will affect how or if
dye is used on the garment at a later date?
Or should one dye ,then Scotch guard,and would this
cause any type of chemical reaction?
Thanks
Melody

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On Thursday 02 June 2005 12:17 pm, Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:
> I am traveling right now without that book... I will check it when I return
> in mid-June... I read the entire book and my impression was that there are
> actually pockets and not just slits, but I could be wrong.  

That's just fine.  See you then!


-- 
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entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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On Thursday 02 June 2005 3:16 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi Cynthia,
> I think this is the case.
> I could also imagine that if you did not wash your hair for about 14 days,
> ( i have never tryed this :-)) it would get quite oily, and if you had some
> long curls, it would grease your clothes on the shoulders. The powder would
> eat all that grease, and kind of protect your clothes, the powder
> could just be brushed away with a cloth brush.

It's an interesting thought.  Except for the fact that powder was used by both 
sexes, both on wigs and on hair styles that never went anywhere near the 
shoulders (such as the upswept towering women's styles of the 1780s.)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths, dogs and petticoats (just for fun...)
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Dunno about Mary QofS, but I definitely agree about the cats! I have 
four, and they *definitely* choose more frequently to sleep with me on 
the bed when the weather is cooler or cold (and sometimes very 
snugly...I even have one that will root around under the covers and hiss 
like a steam kettle if I don't make room for her).  I can even tell if 
the temperature drops during the night because instead of napping on me 
or on the bed, they'll all pile on, and *stay* there. ;o)
--Sue, in a remarkably-chilly-for-a-June-evening 
Montana....hmmmm....wool sox and hot tea....hmmmm....

Cheryldee@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 6/2/2005 7:22:31 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
> lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:
> I wouldn't want to carry a critter around with me, but a half dozen cats 
> beats an electric blanket any cold night!!
> Apparently, Mary Queen of Scots brought her little dog along with her to her 
> execution hidden under her petticoat.  No one knew it was there until her head 
> was removed, upon which the dog became extremely distressed and began 
> wailing.  This is not an urban legend, I believe, as I came across it in a history of 
> the Tudor family by a reputable historian.  But who knows?  Cheryl Odom
> 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 23:34:23 -0400
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On Thursday 02 June 2005 5:42 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> >On Thursday 02 June 2005 2:54 am, Stephanie Smith wrote:
> >[snip]
> >
> >>Adele wrote:
> >>I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a
> >>picture of a pair of Venetians with a pocket set into
> >>the side seam. This is _not_ to say that pockets on
> >>separate bands didn't stay popular for at least
> >>another 300 years.
> >
> >I grabbed for my copy when I read that.  Actually, Arnold describes two
> > pair of  upper hose with pockets, both dated to the late 1610s.
>
> I stand (slightly) corrected :)

1618, to be exact.  :-)

Though, to be fair, that doesn't mean that there were no men's upper hose with 
pockets before 1600.  It's unlikely anyone would have thought of trying 
something like an integral pocket in the more leg-contoured upper hose early 
in Elizabeth's reign (I forget what they're called.  Camions?  Canions?) 
because actually putting anything in such a pocket would risk spoiling the 
silhouette, so to speak.  Before then, upper hose fit much too closely (and, 
while codpieces were in fashion, there wouldn't have been much of a need for 
another form of pocket.  One could even argue that the codpiece was superior 
because it would be really hard for pickpockets to get at it without alerting 
the prorprietor. )

It strikes me as very possible that integral pockets may have turned up in 
men's wear as early as the 1580's, but I think it's hard arguing for the 
existence of integral pockets before then.  (Pockets worn on a separate 
string, and clothing with slits permitting access to same, are another 
story.)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Scotch guard and dyeing
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 22:42:25 -0500
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>From my experience you need to dye first and then once you have the color
you sew it and then scotch guard the item.

De


-----Original Message-----
Hi,
A question please, does anyone know if an application
of Scotch Guard Fabric treatment will affect how or if
dye is used on the garment at a later date?
Or should one dye ,then Scotch guard,and would this
cause any type of chemical reaction?
Thanks
Melody


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>
>Before then, upper hose fit much too closely (and, 
>while codpieces were in fashion, there wouldn't have been much of a need for 
>another form of pocket.  One could even argue that the codpiece was superior 
>because it would be really hard for pickpockets to get at it without alerting 
>the prorprietor. )
>  
>
I think you may have highlighted another myth here...


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  first bras (was: Costuming myths)
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On Thursday 02 June 2005 2:01 pm, E House wrote:
> Well, here's one I hadn't noticed before (click to enlarge):
> http://haabet.dk/patent/43321/index.html
> I think _this_ would have to be the first bra, from 1864 (unless you count
> that regency thingy, or the 18thC really-high-waisted bust corsets).  Can
> we CRINGE? 


Yes.  This thing looks more like what Lucas had Princess Leia wear after she 
was captured by Jabba the Hut, rather than a true bra.


> Actually, I've seen mention of one from 1863, patented by Luman 
> L. Chapman, but have yet to find a picture.
>
> Many 1880s-1890s 'health corsets' were basically bras with unboned (though
> not unstiffened) waists attached:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/c1882-2.gif


That seems more like a modern camisole than anything that would provide real 
breast support--so I would hesitate to call it a bra or a bra-ancestor.


> Marie Tucek's 1893 bust supporter is commonly called the first bra:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/1893braMTucek494397.gif

Yup, looks like a bra, all right.  Now I'm mad at the so-called histories I'd 
read that don't include it.



> Most of the earliest separate bust support originated from a desire for a
> more attractive figure, leading to the 'bust perfector' patented 1899:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/kabobust.jpg
> (From the propaganda: "It is an efficient bust support, and will be hailed
> with delight by the athletic woman who wants the waist entirely free."

Still looks more like a camisole than either a bra or a corset to me, but this 
model at least looks as though it would provide breast support.



> This one, from 1909, shows the evolution of the bust form into the
> brassiere: http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/us000933265-001.gif
> As does this, from 1914 (click to enlarge):
> http://haabet.dk/patent/1231011/index.html
>
> Here are a couple of those bust forms, both c1910:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/corset1.jpg
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/vec289.jpg
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/vec289a.jpg

This gets us into Ms. Jacob's era and her direct competitors.  My question was 
whether the bra was invented before the 1910s.  Apparently there were bra 
inventions before then, though it's hard to know how many women wore them.

Thanks for all the nifty links!


By the way, Herminie Cadolle (the woman who invented the "soutien gorge") 
founded a designer lingerie house which is in operation to this day:

Wiki entry about Cadolle:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herminie_Cadolle

Cadolle company web site (note; features flash and annoying background music):

http://www.cadolle.com/

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 22:46:06 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Jumping in here without my books to hand.....I remember seeing at least
one man's portrait with an elaborately embroidered handkerchief corner
hanging out of  what could be a pocket in his paned slops and I seem to
remember a portrait of a woman in a surcoat who also had an embroidered
handkerchief hanging out of an apparent pocket. These were both
comfortably in the reign of Elizabeth ( that style of surcoat being 'in'
during the first half of her reign). The lady might have had hers showing
from a separate pocket worn under the surcoat.....but an integral pocket
seems more likely. The gentleman probably had a pocket in the fullness of
the lining of the slops. Can I prove this without a doubt? Nope. But it's
the simplest explanation for the observed phenomenon. 



Karen
Seamstrix

On Thu, 2 Jun 2005 23:34:23 -0400 Catherine Olanich Raymond
<cathy@thyrsus.com> writes:
> On Thursday 02 June 2005 5:42 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> > Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> > >On Thursday 02 June 2005 2:54 am, Stephanie Smith wrote:
> > >[snip]
> > >
> > >>Adele wrote:
> > >>I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a
> > >>picture of a pair of Venetians with a pocket set into
> > >>the side seam. This is _not_ to say that pockets on
> > >>separate bands didn't stay popular for at least
> > >>another 300 years.
> > >
> > >I grabbed for my copy when I read that.  Actually, Arnold 
> describes two
> > > pair of  upper hose with pockets, both dated to the late 1610s.
> >
> > I stand (slightly) corrected :)
> 
> 1618, to be exact.  :-)
> 
> Though, to be fair, that doesn't mean that there were no men's upper 
> hose with 
> pockets before 1600.  It's unlikely anyone would have thought of 
> trying 
> something like an integral pocket in the more leg-contoured upper 
> hose early 
> in Elizabeth's reign (I forget what they're called.  Camions?  
> Canions?) 
> because actually putting anything in such a pocket would risk 
> spoiling the 
> silhouette, so to speak.  Before then, upper hose fit much too 
> closely (and, 
> while codpieces were in fashion, there wouldn't have been much of a 
> need for 
> another form of pocket.  One could even argue that the codpiece was 
> superior 
> because it would be really hard for pickpockets to get at it without 
> alerting 
> the prorprietor. )
> 
> It strikes me as very possible that integral pockets may have turned 
> up in 
> men's wear as early as the 1580's, but I think it's hard arguing for 
> the 
> existence of integral pockets before then.  (Pockets worn on a 
> separate 
> string, and clothing with slits permitting access to same, are 
> another 
> story.)
> 
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> 
> "So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse 
> powered by
> entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm 
> going
> to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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<snip>
> As for the continued popularity of hanging pockets even after built-in
pockets were invented -- if I had to speculate, I'd say one major advantage
for the fashion-conscious is that they don't affect the "hang" of the
garment as much. Putting something heavy or large in a built-in pocket can
create a visible bulge, if one cares about such things. With a hanging
pocket, if the garments aren't closely fitted you can practically carry a
partridge in a pear tree without it showing nearly as much :) My Elizabethan
farthingale has pockets built into it that hang *inside* the hoops, for that
reason, and they hold my checkbook and wallet, handkerchiefs, spectacles,
pens, etc. etc. (not that I can document farthingale pockets, but they're
certainly practical).
> 0  Chris Laning

I find pouches on a belt (worn either over or under my skirts) are more
convenient because instead of transferring all the objects from one pocket
to another I just transfer the belt and pocket at once. I expect it would be
much the same for the objects that women in the past needed to carry every
day.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 21:00:30 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Scotch guard and dyeing
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At 08:15 PM 6/2/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi,
>A question please, does anyone know if an application
>of Scotch Guard Fabric treatment will affect how or if
>dye is used on the garment at a later date?
>Or should one dye ,then Scotch guard,and would this
>cause any type of chemical reaction?
>Thanks
>Melody

Since ScotchGuard will prevent water penetration, you definitely don't want 
to treat the fabric until after you have dyed it.  Once the dye is set and 
the fabric is dry, treating it should not cause any problem with the dye job.

Joan

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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On Thursday 02 June 2005 11:50 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> >Before then, upper hose fit much too closely (and,
> >while codpieces were in fashion, there wouldn't have been much of a need
> > for another form of pocket.  One could even argue that the codpiece was
> > superior because it would be really hard for pickpockets to get at it
> > without alerting the prorprietor. )
>
> I think you may have highlighted another myth here...

I don't deny that there's no proof that anyone carried his ...money in his 
codpiece.  On the other hand, I know of no proof that  it *wasn't* done, 
either.  And you must grant that although a preoccupied man might fail to 
notice a tug at his belt or other part of his body, reaching for his crotch 
could not fail to get a reaction.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 00:41:14 -0400
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On Thursday 02 June 2005 11:46 pm, Karen R Bergquist wrote:
> Jumping in here without my books to hand.....I remember seeing at least
> one man's portrait with an elaborately embroidered handkerchief corner
> hanging out of  what could be a pocket in his paned slops 


Or, perhaps, from behind a pane in his paned slops?  At any event, I'd love to 
see the portrait.

> and I seem to 
> remember a portrait of a woman in a surcoat who also had an embroidered
> handkerchief hanging out of an apparent pocket. These were both
> comfortably in the reign of Elizabeth ( that style of surcoat being 'in'
> during the first half of her reign). 

If it's the kind of surcoat I think you mean (sleeveless, full-length, with a 
suggestion of a collar and some fitting through the torso?), I think it came 
in toward the end of the first half of her reign--which would put it near the 
1580s.  Elizabeth took the throne in 1558.


> The lady might have had hers showing 
> from a separate pocket worn under the surcoat.....but an integral pocket
> seems more likely. 

Why?

> The gentleman probably had a pocket in the fullness of 
> the lining of the slops. 

If they were indeed full slops, I agree that certainly is possible.  But 
Elizabeth took the throne in the late 1550s.  I didn't think the full slops 
started to come in for a good 15 years after that (though I could be 
mistaken; I don't know Elizabethan costume as well as some other eras).

Of course, it all depends upon the date of the costumes in the portrait.  If 
the portrait is late 1570s-early 1580s, I quite agree with you.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 21:40:27 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
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At 10:19 AM +1200 6/3/05, michaela wrote:
>
>"If the hair is still oily and lies flat on the head, sprinkle a little
>powdered orris-root on the hair, then brush it out thoroughly. This will
>make the hair soft and fluffy, will polish and gloss it, and the odour from
>the orris-root is delightfully refreshing and pleasant."

Anyone else old enough to remember using cornmeal for this? I 
remember my mom doing this sort of "dry shampoo" treatment on me a 
few times when I was quite young.
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 21:57:05 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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P.S. Let's not forget "pointy toed shoes with points so long they 
have to be fastened with chains to the knees so the wearer doesn't 
trip over them" <g>

Or the idea that all medieval women wore those tall cone-shaped hats 
with a veil hanging from the point.... (actually IIRC the veil, for 
the fairly short time this hat style was in fashion, was actually 
draped over the _entire_ hat, but it's hard to see in paintings, 
except for the folds at the back, because it's so transparent...)

Or the idea that knights wore their armor all the time (in the movies 
they even seem to wear it while making love, or trying to.... :). Or 
the idea that armor is so heavy that the wearer has to be hoisted up 
onto his horse, or that he can't get up if he falls over.... but then 
I'm not sure if armor actually qualifies as "clothing."

Or chastity belts. Or iron corsets (both of which I think we've 
discussed extensively in the archives...).
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
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On Thu, 2 Jun 2005, Chris Laning wrote:

> At 10:19 AM +1200 6/3/05, michaela wrote:
> >
> >"If the hair is still oily and lies flat on the head, sprinkle a little
> >powdered orris-root on the hair, then brush it out thoroughly. This will
> >make the hair soft and fluffy, will polish and gloss it, and the odour from
> >the orris-root is delightfully refreshing and pleasant."
> 
> Anyone else old enough to remember using cornmeal for this? I 
> remember my mom doing this sort of "dry shampoo" treatment on me a 
> few times when I was quite young.

I keep plain oatmeal on hand for this. Works like a charm. 

Something scented would be nice. Apparently orris root powder is sold at
craft stores, for potpourris. I'm going to check it out. However, my
experience with powders is that they're much more of a nuisance to get out
of the hair compared to something rough or large like oatmeal (or even
cornmeal), which brushes out easily and leaves the hair light and clean.
Baby powder or talcum powder just stick in the hair and get gummy/heavy.

I stand in the back yard when I brush out oatmeal.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
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Michaela wrote
>>"If the hair is still oily and lies flat on the head, sprinkle a little
>>powdered orris-root on the hair, then brush it out thoroughly. This will
>>make the hair soft and fluffy, will polish and gloss it, and the odour 
>>from
>>the orris-root is delightfully refreshing and pleasant."
Then Chris wrote
> Anyone else old enough to remember using cornmeal for this? I remember my 
> mom doing this sort of "dry shampoo" treatment on me a few times when I 
> was quite young.
> -- 

How about something called "Minipoo", as in "when you can't shampoo, 
minipoo".  It came in a shaker can, sort of like grated parmesan cheese, and 
you shook it onto your hair, let it sit a while, then brushed it out.  This 
was back in the late 50s/early 60's.  I don't remember how successful a 
product it was, but I do remember getting dosed with it in the winter or 
when I was sick.
              -Helen/Aidan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
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> It's an interesting thought.  Except for the fact that powder was used by 
> both
> sexes, both on wigs and on hair styles that never went anywhere near the
> shoulders (such as the upswept towering women's styles of the 1780s.)


Powdering hair for men started in 1670-80ies if not earlyer and this time 
men had long hair. Perhaps it was just a tradition that started there, and 
went on even if the hair got shorter.
In 18th century boys of the age of 12 had all their hair cut off and they 
started to wear wigs. And as they wore these wigs all the time, their own 
hair got bad because it was hide away all the time. Same thing happens if 
you wear a hat all the time.
Women seldom wore wigs in 18th century, but had the hairstyles made of their 
own hair.
But the same thing with the wig and hygiene. It also seldom was washed, and 
therefore it was easyer to powder it and fresh it up.

Bjarne 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2005 2:57 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)


> P.S. Let's not forget "pointy toed shoes with points so long they
> have to be fastened with chains to the knees so the wearer doesn't
> trip over them" <g>
>
> Or the idea that all medieval women wore those tall cone-shaped hats
> with a veil hanging from the point.... (actually IIRC the veil, for
> the fairly short time this hat style was in fashion, was actually
> draped over the _entire_ hat, but it's hard to see in paintings,
> except for the folds at the back, because it's so transparent...)
<snip>

Actually, while draping the veil over the whole hennin (i.e. pointy hat) was
more common there is evidence for veils dangling from the tip too. See this
page http://members.fortunecity.com/cadieuxx/burgundy3.html the pictures
showing veils dangling from the tip are about halfway down the page.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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>Or the idea that armor is so heavy that the wearer has to be hoisted up 
>onto his horse, or that he can't get up if he falls over....

They may have been talking about jousting armor, which is much 
thicker/heavier than the kind worn in wars.  I heard a story that a knight 
in armor was expected to be able to get up and remount his horse if he fell 
off.

>Or chastity belts. Or iron corsets

Both of these garments exist.  I'm not saying they aren't Victorian, Kinky, 
or joke things, but they do exist.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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>>QE 1 was very proud of her height and Mary Queen of Scots was almost six 
>>feet tall.
>Do you have a source for that information about Mary's height?  I've heard 
>that she was taller than Elizabeth, but that's about all.

Davenport says, in her costume book, that, according to a garment 
supposedly worn my Elizabeth I and which is in the Elizabeth Day McCormick 
collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, Elizabeth I was the size of a 
ten-year-old American girl.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> r.carnegie@verizon.net 02/06/2005 18:42 >>> wrote:

>   You do pull a sword across your "front" when drawing.  They are commonly worn by a >right hander on the left hip.  I still doubt that this is really the reason though.  You pull it across >your frontage, BUT not across your actual front.  (i.e. It is not drug across the chest itself). 

Well, that's what I meant. Obviously it has to be transferred left to right, but surely the hilt moves outward from the body, not across against the clothing.

My father was born in 1907, and the books I have of his were published around the later years of WW1. The buttoning convention must have been well established by then for a boys' book to offer an "explanation" of it.


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Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> thebruce@ihug.co.nz 02/06/2005 23:19 >>>

> > So what do y'all figure the powder in the hair was for?  To keep it
> > from looking oily?
> >
> I don't think it was "for" anything, except the look.

>Depending on what the powder was, and considering this was the 17thC (1662
>you see natural hair colours in wigs and hair styles, I haven't seen
>powdered, has anyone else?) it could be for oilyness.

I was going to say the same thing. White hair powder wasn't in fashion at the time Pepys was writing his diary. It must have been to absorb oil.



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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Hi everyone,
My grandma just gave me a few things when she was doing a clean out, one of
them is a lace collar which belonged to her mother, so it could be any time
after c. 1900 it's in really good condition (I can only find a couple of
flaws where a thread has broken) but it's been sitting in a chest for a long
time and it's got that musty smell and I think its discoloured (there's one
or two tiny brown spots). So far I was thinking of just washing it in hot
water and pure soap and laying it out in the sun, could I use 'oxygen' stain
removal powder (nappi san for Australians) to get rid of the stains or would
that damage it? Can I just wrap it in a piece of (washed, cotton) fabric to
store it or should I go out and buy some acid free paper?
thanks,
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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At 19:09 03/06/2005 +1000, you wrote:
>Hi everyone,
>My grandma just gave me a few things when she was doing a clean out, one of
>them is a lace collar which belonged to her mother, so it could be any time
>after c. 1900 it's in really good condition (I can only find a couple of
>flaws where a thread has broken) but it's been sitting in a chest for a long
>time and it's got that musty smell and I think its discoloured (there's one
>or two tiny brown spots). So far I was thinking of just washing it in hot
>water and pure soap and laying it out in the sun, could I use 'oxygen' stain
>removal powder (nappi san for Australians) to get rid of the stains or would
>that damage it? Can I just wrap it in a piece of (washed, cotton) fabric to
>store it or should I go out and buy some acid free paper?
>thanks,
>Elizabeth
>--------------------------------------------
My friend who collects lace told me to wrap it round a bottle or jar before 
washing in plain water to start with. It can be dried that way too. I don't 
know about using anything stronger (she lives in Denmark with no e-mail so 
I can't ask), but real soap (Lux, Fairy, shaved bar soap, baby shampoo or 
wash - not detergent) is probably as safe as anything, and would be what 
was used originally.

I store everything *old* in acid free tissue in archive boxes. (Part of my 
storage problem!)

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Ladies carrying knives
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   In my search about women in the late 13th through the 14th centuries, 
I can find any info about women carrying any form of knife/dagger.  Do 
any of you know if women ever did carry any form of a blade?  If I 
understand correctly they carried a pouch and possibly a rosary (which I 
am having problems finding what one actually looked like even looking at 
pictures).
    Thanks for any help.  And by the way, it looks like I finally get to 
start to work on stuffed toy horse next week.  A doll maker friend is 
going to sit down with me and help me make my first ever doll/animal.  
I'll take some pictures as soon as it is done.  I guess that leads to 
another question.  When taking pictures of projects; is it best to make 
a photo journal of the steps I take in any of my projects?

Roscelin

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References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPEEENEFAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: spiders..Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 2:13 PM
Subject: RE: spiders..Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)


>I had been given the name Spider Woman or Starspider by an elder because of
> my unique ability to attract spiders especially but not exclusively when 
> out
> doors. Five minutes after I have my tent up there will be at least one
> spider with their web up inside it.

That name suits me too. And especially in this house, I've never seen so 
many spiders in my life.

Dianne

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ladies carrying knives
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>    In my search about women in the late 13th through the 14th centuries,
> I can find any info about women carrying any form of knife/dagger.  Do
> any of you know if women ever did carry any form of a blade?  If I
> understand correctly they carried a pouch and possibly a rosary (which I
> am having problems finding what one actually looked like even looking at
> pictures).

Well.. wrong century, and probably not what you are after... But in
researching some late 16thC German dress I did notice some odd things
hanging off women's girdles. They can be seen most readily in the Jost Amman
Frauenzimmer book. It looks like two daggers in a single sheath that hang
quite horizontally at times.
Click to view the full sized image.
http://inky.library.yale.edu/medwomen/04183034.html
(below her pouch)
http://inky.library.yale.edu/medwomen/04183035.html
(behind her pouch)
http://inky.library.yale.edu/medwomen/04183037.html
(ditto)
http://inky.library.yale.edu/medwomen/04183127.html
(beside her pouch hanging near her hem)
http://inky.library.yale.edu/medwomen/04183128.html
(obcsured by her pouch)
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/zwimmer.htm
There are probably more, these were the most likely looking "German" women I
could find, but my understanding of place names is ever so much better than
when I made those links I'm sure I will be doing a fair bit of editing
later;)


Someone on my friends list on Livejournal had also pointed out quite
coincidentally extant items that were these girdles and objects. So I made
an update in my own journal:
http://www.livejournal.com/users/pinkdiamond/322146.html

I have many images from bildindex of the extant items not pointed to in my
journal.
It took some hunting, and I cannot remember which museums I found them all
in.

I'm hoping to eventually get a set made or learn somehow to cast my own.

So it is possibly a knife and fork set worn in a "lederfuttel." I'm guessing
fork rather than spoon for the shape and possibly the status.

I did see one in a portrait that is lurking somewhere in my files as well...


Anyway, they are just another funky accessory I'm trying to organise for my
complete wardrobe of a 1570s German woman;) Hats, extra snuggly layers, an
apron, pouch and possibly shoes.. and definitely the cutlery set;)

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jun  3 07:16:26 2005
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Didn't people carry their own cutlery (rather than expect it to be supplied when they ate out)?

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> roscelin@pcez.com 03/06/2005 11:15 >>>
   In my search about women in the late 13th through the 14th centuries, 
I can find any info about women carrying any form of knife/dagger.  Do 
any of you know if women ever did carry any form of a blade?  If I 
understand correctly they carried a pouch and possibly a rosary (which I 
am having problems finding what one actually looked like even looking at 
pictures).
    Thanks for any help.  And by the way, it looks like I finally get to 
start to work on stuffed toy horse next week.  A doll maker friend is 
going to sit down with me and help me make my first ever doll/animal.  
I'll take some pictures as soon as it is done.  I guess that leads to 
another question.  When taking pictures of projects; is it best to make 
a photo journal of the steps I take in any of my projects?

Roscelin

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Date: Fri, 03 Jun 2005 07:59:27 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Mari Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Copper lace.
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OK...  I have the reference in front of me now so here goes.

 From "Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory"  by Ann Rosalind 
Jones & Peter Stallybrass  on p. 190
They mention copper lace, and then give a footnote.  The footnote reads...

"See also MacIntyre, Costumes and Scripts, 93-5."

I believe that MacIntyre pulled her information from the Henslowe's 1598 
inventories of the Admiral's Men.

Remember- these would have been for stage costumes.  Look the part from 
afar, but not for anything other than the stage.

Hope it's useful.
Mari

>Thank you M. Stewart!  Can you tell me which Theater, where?  Thanks
>
>M Stewart wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>>Copper lace ca. 1560.  from Theater Inventory listings
>>
>>
>>
>>>Hi all you Lacers out there.  What is the earliest evidence you have 
>>>seen of any kind of lace made from metallic threads?
>>>
>>>Thanks, Sg
>>
>>Webmaster@vet.cornell.edu
>>
>>Mari Stewart
>>College of Veterinary Medicine
>>Cornell University 


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At 03:15 AM 6/3/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>   In my search about women in the late 13th through the 14th centuries, I 
> can find any info about women carrying any form of knife/dagger.  Do any 
> of you know if women ever did carry any form of a blade?  If I understand 
> correctly they carried a pouch and possibly a rosary (which I am having 
> problems finding what one actually looked like even looking at pictures).
>    Thanks for any help.  And by the way, it looks like I finally get to 
> start to work on stuffed toy horse next week.  A doll maker friend is 
> going to sit down with me and help me make my first ever doll/animal.
>I'll take some pictures as soon as it is done.  I guess that leads to 
>another question.  When taking pictures of projects; is it best to make a 
>photo journal of the steps I take in any of my projects?
>
>Roscelin

For information about medieval rosaries, try Chris Laning's web site at 
http://paternosters.home.igc.org/ .  Given the simplicity of most of the 
rosaries (and the variety of styles), you should be able to make one easily.

Joan

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On Fri, 3 Jun 2005 00:41:14 -0400 Catherine Olanich Raymond
<cathy@thyrsus.com> writes:
> 
> Or, perhaps, from behind a pane in his paned slops?  At any event, 
> I'd love to  see the portrait.

Of course I can't find my copy of 'A Visual History of Costume- 16th
Century' which is where I think I saw the gentleman with the handkerchief
coming out of his pocket. Rats! Believe me, in the early part of
Elizabeth's reign, there was enough fullness in men's breeches to hide a
decent sized pocket. I think the portrait may have been of Robert Dudley,
Earl of Leicester....but I can't be sure. If anyone has a copy of the
book handy, you can take a look and let me know if I should keep tearing
my sewing room apart looking for it.



> If it's the kind of surcoat I think you mean (sleeveless, 
> full-length, with a 
> suggestion of a collar and some fitting through the torso?), I think 
> it came 
> in toward the end of the first half of her reign--which would put it 
> near the 1580s.  Elizabeth took the throne in 1558.

It's a fitted version of the surcoat with sleeves. It's in Queen E's Unl
on page 188. The portrait is of "'Joan Thornbury, Mrs. Hugh Wakeman'
panel painting by Hans Eworth 1566. She wears what is probably a Flanders
gown and a white linen handkerchief with a tassel on the corner hangs out
of the pocket. Present whereabouts unknown." The placement of the pocket
opening rather far down  on the side of the gown would seem to indicate
that it is not a separate article tied around her waist.....but look for
yourself and tell me what you think.


 
> Of course, it all depends upon the date of the costumes in the 
> portrait.  If 
> the portrait is late 1570s-early 1580s, I quite agree with you.  

I'm pretty sure that the man's portrait is no later than 1580, and men's
breeches would have been plenty full at that point. 'The Tailor' by
Moroni dated 1570 shows very full breeches on a middle class man (page 4
Patterns of Fashion) and on page 14 there are 4 separate portraits of men
ranging from  1556 thru 1574 all showing paned shops with considerable
fullness.


Karen
Seamstrix
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 08:21:36 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On the other hand I remember reading in a source (can't remember which
one, I've read so many!) that Queen E was 5'7" tall. At one point she was
talking to a visiting dignitary while walking thru a palace and made the
joke that she was 'as big as a door'. While Elizabethan doors might have
been somewhat smaller than later doors, they were still at least 6 feet
tall. I think that the combination of being somewhat tall with an tall
elaborate hairstyle and the wide farthingale and sleeves might have made
her quite literally as big as an average door.

Just my tuppence as someone who has spent far too much time studying
Elizabeth and Elizabethan costuming. ;-)


Karen
Seamstrix

P.S. As a ten year old American girl I was well over 5 feet tall......



On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 00:25:30 -0700 Carolyn Kayta Barrows 

> Davenport says, in her costume book, that, according to a garment 
> supposedly worn my Elizabeth I and which is in the Elizabeth Day 
> McCormick 
> collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, Elizabeth I was the size 
> of a 
> ten-year-old American girl.
> 
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
> 
>               //// \\\
>              ////-@@\\\
>             ((((   7 )))
>              (((  <> ))))
>                 )   ((((((
>            /----\   /---\))
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ladies carrying knives
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I've been studying medieval English noble households of late--everyone,
regardless of rank or place, brought their own knife to the table. It was
expected to be clean, as anything less was extremely bad manners.
Apparently spoons were supplied.

I've yet to find a picture of an eating knife though. Anyone have any
references?

Arlys

On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 12:14:34 +0100 "Kate M Bunting"
<K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> writes:
> Didn't people carry their own cutlery (rather than expect it to be 
> supplied when they ate out)?
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Ooh, shoes, (was: Costuming myths (just for fun...) )
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>From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
>P.S. Let's not forget "pointy toed shoes with points so long they
>have to be fastened with chains to the knees so the wearer doesn't
>trip over them" <g>

That's a  personal favorite.  Mind you, I can't find anything to discount 
the possibility that SOMEONE did it once, and people just kept repeating it, 
but I doubt it.  If nothing else, the laws restricting the length of shoes 
to social rank would pretty much dictate that the only people who could be 
wearing shoes with points THAT long would be royalty.

The earliest reference I can find so far is is Ranulf Higden's 
Polychronicon, which was translated into English in 1387, and only actually 
published in 1432.  I can't find the original by the Caxton version has the 
chains story on a section about Queen Anne, so may have been a bit of a 
Ricardian slam (1387 was the point of the first real attempt to oust Richard 
2).  I need to track down the original, since I find it very odd that Ranulf 
Higden, who died in 1364, would have written anything about Anne of Bohemia, 
but there it is  :)

Marc


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ladies carrying knives
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I seem to vaugely recall that we had a discussion regarding the mystery object on a saint's (monk's?) belt.  Might that be his cutlery?

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> I've been studying medieval English noble households of late--everyone, 
> regardless of rank or place, brought their own knife to the table. It was 
> expected to be clean, as anything less was extremely bad manners. 
> Apparently spoons were supplied. 
> 
> I've yet to find a picture of an eating knife though. Anyone have any 
> references? 
> 
> Arlys 
> 
> On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 12:14:34 +0100 "Kate M Bunting" 
> writes: 
> > Didn't people carry their own cutlery (rather than expect it to be 
> > supplied when they ate out)? 
> > 
> > Kate Bunting 
> > Librarian and 17th century reenactor 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair, was costuming myths
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I seem to remember some of the ladies on the 18c llste experimenting with not washing thier hair for long periods of time.  (To me that's longer than 2 days) They noted that just what you said happened.  After the first few days,or being 20-21st century hair that craved washing every few days, it reverted to earlier period hair and was not so.. greasy? as one might expect.  I my self have never lasted beyond 2-days without my scalp itching.  But I remember ladies in my youth (1950's and60's) only getting their hair "done" at the beauty shop once a week, and not washing it inbetween.  

And some of the black ladies I work with look at me as if I'm crazy when I say how frequently I was my hair.  They only wash theirs once a week

Mia in Charlotte, NC

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Subject: [h-cost] Guns (was: on the influence of weapons use and pockets)
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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: on the influence of weapons use and pockets
>>From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
>>In Henry VIII's armory there is reputedly a revolver that is very similar 
>>to the Colt pattern in design and breech loading weapons designed for 
>>paper cartridges.  Some things just are ahead of their time and so are so 
>>atypical that they probably shouldn't be used to represent the norm of a 
>>period.
>I would REALLY love to know more about this--can you give me any key words 
>or point me towards any resources?

I'm still trying to track down the Henry VIII reference, however just off 
the top of my head, Ian Hogg's _Illustrated encyclopedia of firearms_ makes 
reference to the breechloaders ("...two carbines and two shield pistols made 
for Henry VIII.  The carbines used a trap-door at the rear of the barrel, 
which could be lifted and an iron tube, charged with powder and ball, 
inserted [Why was I thinking paper?  Sorry about that.]  Ignition was by 
wheel-lock through a vent incorporated in the tube.  The shield pistols used 
a similar loading system but were matchlocks -- and that itself is 
remarkable, for only one other specimen of a matchlock pistol is known.  But 
in spite of the excellent workmanship for their time, the sealing of the 
breeches left a lot to be desired." (page 34.  There is a phot of a 16th 
century German breech loading pistol on the facing page).

There is no text on the revolver, although there is a photo of a Venetian 
pepperbox, c.1550 and a German snaphaunce - looks like a carbine, with a 
revolving chamber on page 40.

In Blackmore’s _Guns and Rifles of the world_, pictures 547-563 show a 
number of revolvers before 1600, and more before 1700.  Specifically (and 
removing the multiple barrel weapons):
547 Italian c1600 5 chambered cylinder. Palazzo Ducale, Venice.  33.4 in 
carrel. 1.58 in. cal.
559 German c1600 6 chambered cylinder carbine matchlock, Tower of London 
(no. XII-471) .35 cal.
560 German (Nurmeberg) 1597  8 chambered cylinder Tojhusmuseet, Copenhagen 
(No. B 294) .42 Cal (I think this is the same one as in the Hogg photo 
mentioned above).
561 German (Nurmeberg) c1600  8 chambered cylinder Tojhusmuseet, Copenhagen 
(No. B 295) .4 Cal
562 German, c1600 8 chambered cylinder. Royal Scottish Museum, Edinburgh 
(no. 1876.29.22) .4 cal.
563 Pistol carbine with 6 chanbered cylinder c1600 German.  Kremlin, Moscow 
(no. 8352)

Marc


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On Fri, 3 Jun 2005, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> Davenport says, in her costume book, that, according to a garment
> supposedly worn my Elizabeth I and which is in the Elizabeth Day
> McCormick collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, Elizabeth I was
> the size of a ten-year-old American girl.

Sounds like "supposedly" is the key word here. There are many anecdotal
references to Elizabeth's tallness.

--Robin

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I think we could say the practice continued to 20th century.  Does anyone remember the spray shampoo called Psssssst?  Catchy jingle said it wasn't a dry or wet shampoo but that you just spray and brush.  I think it was aerosolized powder.  Was better than oily hair but got gucky.  Not nearly as gucky as talcum powder I tried instead <G>.

----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> Depending on what the powder was, and considering this was the 17thC (1662
> you see natural hair colours in wigs and hair styles, I haven't seen
> powdered, has anyone else?) it could be for oilyness.
> 
> I have a few annuals from the start of the 20thC that advocate using orris
> root powder as a dry hair bath.  As far as I know that is an old practice
> and may well have been in practice in the 17thC.
> 
> I used powder to damp down the effects of oily hair as a teen. I was washing
> my hair every 2nd day as it was. Don't have that issue now funnily enough;)

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Thanks to everyone who offered advice. After a little
trial and error I went with the alternative to turning
it out.  I folded the outer edges in, then folded it
in half.  I will keep the other methods in mind for
future reference though.

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----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:> 

> > Marie Tucek's 1893 bust supporter is commonly called the first bra:
> > http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/1893braMTucek494397.gif
> 
> Yup, looks like a bra, all right.  Now I'm mad at the so-called histories I'd 
> read that don't include it.

Has anyone heard the story that the first modern cantilevered bra was developed by Howard Hughes for Jane Russell?  Who really designed that bra?
Julie

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] powdered hair
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On Fri, 3 Jun 2005, Julie wrote:

> I think we could say the practice continued to 20th century.  Does
> anyone remember the spray shampoo called Psssssst?  Catchy jingle said
> it wasn't a dry or wet shampoo but that you just spray and brush....

Aaaaggghh! Earworm! Get it out!

Psssssst. There's something new!
Psssssst. Instant spray shampoo!
Clairol freshens your hair instantly
With P-s-s-s-s-s-s-t!

Aaaaauuuuggghhh!

--Robin
who used it...once

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] first bras
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At 09:07 03/06/2005 -0700, you wrote:

>----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:>
>
> > > Marie Tucek's 1893 bust supporter is commonly called the first bra:
> > > http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/1893braMTucek494397.gif
> >
> > Yup, looks like a bra, all right.  Now I'm mad at the so-called 
> histories I'd
> > read that don't include it.
>
>Has anyone heard the story that the first modern cantilevered bra was 
>developed by Howard Hughes for Jane Russell?  Who really designed that bra?
>Julie


I saw an interview with Jane Russell, in which she explained about the bra. 
Apparently, there was a lot of cleavage, and her nipples poked out. The 
censor would only pass the cleavage with no nipples, so Hughes designed and 
had made a bra that hid the nipples. However, it was extremely 
uncomfortable and so Miss Russell wore her own bra, and tucked  - she said 
tissues but I guess that early it might not have been - something inside to 
hide them. Hughes never knew!!

Suzi


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One of my favorite stories:

Janet Arnold quotes John Bulwer (in POF) in his book 
Anthropometamophosis: Man Transformed or the Artificial Changeling 
(1653).  He wrote:

 "...A Prisoner..who being to go before the Judge for a certain cause he 
was accused of, it being at the time when the Law was in force against 
weary Bayes stuffed in their Breeches, and he then having stuffed his 
breeches very full, the Judges told him that he did weare his breeches 
contrary to the Law: who began to excuse himself of the offense, and 
endeavoring by little and little to discharge himself of that which he 
did weare within them, he drew out of breeches a pair of Sheets, two 
TableCloaths, 10 Napkins, foure Shirts a Brush a Clasp, and a Combe, 
Night-camps and  other things of use saying (all the Hall being strewed 
with this furniture)) your Highnesse may understand that because I have 
not safer a store-house,  these pockets do serve me of a roome to lay my 
goods in, and though it be a straight prison, yet it is a store-house 
big enough for them, for I have many things more of value yet within 
it.  And so his discharge was accepted and well laughed at, and they 
commanded him that he should not alter the furniture of his store-house, 
but that he should rid the Hall of his stuffe, and keep them as it 
pleased him."


Sg
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From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] powdered hair
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My partner worked in her family's drug store in Buffalo, NY during this era, and she loves to tell the story about a customer who came in and asked, "Excuse me, but do you sell piss?"
 
"I beg your pardon?"
 
"Do you sell piss?"
 
"Uh, ma'am, what would you use it for?!"
 
She was, of course, looking for Pssssst -- I remember my sisters using it, a white aerosol bottle with a purple and browl swirly swoosh around it.
 
KP


Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com> wrote:
I think we could say the practice continued to 20th century. Does anyone remember the spray shampoo called Psssssst? Catchy jingle said it wasn't a dry or wet shampoo but that you just spray and brush. I think it was aerosolized powder. Was better than oily hair but got gucky. Not nearly as gucky as talcum powder I tried instead .

---- wrote:
> Depending on what the powder was, and considering this was the 17thC (1662
> you see natural hair colours in wigs and hair styles, I haven't seen
> powdered, has anyone else?) it could be for oilyness.
> 
> I have a few annuals from the start of the 20thC that advocate using orris
> root powder as a dry hair bath. As far as I know that is an old practice
> and may well have been in practice in the 17thC.
> 
> I used powder to damp down the effects of oily hair as a teen. I was washing
> my hair every 2nd day as it was. Don't have that issue now funnily enough;)

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> On Fri, 3 Jun 2005, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>> Davenport says, in her costume book, that, according to a garment
>> supposedly worn my Elizabeth I and which is in the Elizabeth Day
>> McCormick collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, Elizabeth I was
>> the size of a ten-year-old American girl.
> 
> Sounds like "supposedly" is the key word here. There are many anecdotal
> references to Elizabeth's tallness.


Or perhaps she wore it when she was, you know, ten years old.

-E House

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair, was costuming myths
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On Fri, 3 Jun 2005, Mia Dappert wrote:

> I seem to remember some of the ladies on the 18c llste experimenting
> with not washing thier hair for long periods of time.  (To me that's
> longer than 2 days) They noted that just what you said happened.  
> After the first few days,or being 20-21st century hair that craved
> washing every few days, it reverted to earlier period hair and was not
> so.. greasy? as one might expect.

We had a similar discussion on this list in May 2000, in which several
people on this list described their switch to a non-shampoo method of hair
care. Teddy, who has beautiful long hair (or did at the time, at least; no
idea what he's got now) noted that he had not washed his hair for four
years.

I tried it myself shortly afterward; my adjustment period was about three
weeks. Since then I have washed my hair perhaps once or twice a year, when
my eczema springs up and I need to use a medicated shampoo on my scalp.
That doesn't mean I don't *clean* my hair, I just don't wash it -- I brush
it thoroughly every day (and clean my brushes), and rinse periodically
with an infusion from herbs from my garden.

Anyone who has seen me in the last four years can testify as to the
quality and attractiveness of my hair. I must say it's far more manageable
than it ever was before. It's definitely not greasy. Interestingly,
although I used to have very oily hair, it's now normal-leaning-to-dry.

> I my self have never lasted beyond 2-days without my scalp itching.  
> But I remember ladies in my youth (1950's and60's) only getting their
> hair "done" at the beauty shop once a week, and not washing it
> inbetween.

I was already at a once-a-week schedule before I started the no-shampoo
method; my hair is so long it takes a day to dry, so no way I was going to
wash it every other day! Once a week was pretty standard when I was a kid
in the 1960s; I remember the marketing push for more frequent washing,
including the jingle (eek! another earworm!) for "Everynight Shampoo" that
had the audacity to call itself "natural." Huh?

For that matter, the custom of regular washing with shampoo is less than
100 years old -- another marketing push.

--Robin


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 I just don't wash it -- I brush
it thoroughly every day (and clean my brushes), and rinse periodically
with an infusion from herbs from my garden. <snip>
--Robin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..

Care to share your recipie :)?

Catherine



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair, was costuming myths
Date: Fri, 03 Jun 2005 18:21:41 +0000
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More on hair: I, too remember when once a week was regarded as normal for hair washing, and the ad campaigns to encourage more frequent washage. But then, my parents still make fun of me for taking a shower every single day. I have coarse, thick, wavy hair, and it gets very dry and brittle. A couple of years ago, in desperation, I remembered that it had been healthier when I washed it once a week, so now I wash it no more than once a week -- I rinse it with water in hot water a couple of times a week in summer or if I'm working out a lot, and of course there's the hair dye once every four weeks (so sue me; it went gray when I was 29 and I wasn't ready; now I'm not prepared to wear a veil for six months to get past the Pepe Le Pew/Susan Sontag stage). In the summer I always try to have it as dirty as possible for re-enactor events because when it is dirty, it stays up much better. It's also much more 19th-century wavy and lush if I am getting a lot of exercise -- as my pals a!
 t the dojo used to say, there's nothing for beautiful hair like sweat. 
Lauren 
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Date: Fri, 03 Jun 2005 10:26:19 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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>>>Davenport says, in her costume book, that, according to a garment
>>>supposedly worn my Elizabeth I and which is in the Elizabeth Day
>>>McCormick collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, Elizabeth I was
>>>the size of a ten-year-old American girl.
>>Sounds like "supposedly" is the key word here. There are many anecdotal
>>references to Elizabeth's tallness.

And many surviving garments supposedly worn by her.


>Or perhaps she wore it when she was, you know, ten years old.

It's one of those almost-Jacobean embroidered jackets, so the dates are 
wrong for that.



        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair, was costuming myths
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On Fri, 3 Jun 2005, Catherine Kinsey wrote:

>  I just don't wash it -- I brush
> it thoroughly every day (and clean my brushes), and rinse periodically
> with an infusion from herbs from my garden. <snip>
> --Robin
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..
> 
> Care to share your recipie :)?

I use mostly rosemary, which I grow in the summer and then dry for use
throughout the year. Boil water, steep the rosemary in it along with some
whole cloves and maybe a crushed cinnamon stick, for nice scent. When it's
cooled down a bit and is quite dark, pour through a strainer. (You can use
it right away, or let it cool and then heat it a bit in the microwave
before using.) I put a large bowl in the sink and pour the rinse from a
pitcher over my head and into the bowl; comb thoroughly, then pour the
rinse back into the pitcher and repeat a couple of times to saturate my
hair thoroughly. I might also dilute it a bit with warm water for the
second or third pourings, and rinse with additional warm water if I need.

Rinsing your hair with warm water when you shower is probably enough to
keep the hair fresh, but I don't like having wet hair every time I shower,
because it takes so long to dry.

Several people described other herb combinations when we discussed this
before; should be in the archives (May 2000, several subject lines).
Rosemary is recommended for reducing oil.  I have found lemon to be too
astringent; I don't like the feel on my hair.

Chamomile was suggested, too, but if you're allergic to ragweed (as I am),
avoid it; it's cross-reactive. Same for chamomile tea if you have hay
fever.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ladies carrying knives
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Status: RO

Looks to me like you're going to need a huge set of arms as well, don't
you think?   LOL

> http://inky.library.yale.edu/medwomen/04183034.html
> (below her pouch)
> http://inky.library.yale.edu/medwomen/04183035.html
> (behind her pouch)
> http://inky.library.yale.edu/medwomen/04183037.html
> (ditto)
> http://inky.library.yale.edu/medwomen/04183127.html
> (beside her pouch hanging near her hem)
> http://inky.library.yale.edu/medwomen/04183128.html
> (obcsured by her pouch)
> http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/zwimmer.htm
> There are probably more, these were the most likely looking "German"
> women I could find, but my understanding of place names is ever so much
> better than when I made those links I'm sure I will be doing a fair bit
> of editing later;)
>
>
> Someone on my friends list on Livejournal had also pointed out quite
> coincidentally extant items that were these girdles and objects. So I
> made an update in my own journal:
> http://www.livejournal.com/users/pinkdiamond/322146.html
>
> I have many images from bildindex of the extant items not pointed to in
> my journal.
> It took some hunting, and I cannot remember which museums I found them
> all in.
>
> I'm hoping to eventually get a set made or learn somehow to cast my own.
>
> So it is possibly a knife and fork set worn in a "lederfuttel." I'm
> guessing fork rather than spoon for the shape and possibly the status.
>
> I did see one in a portrait that is lurking somewhere in my files as
> well...
>
>
> Anyway, they are just another funky accessory I'm trying to organise for
> my complete wardrobe of a 1570s German woman;) Hats, extra snuggly
> layers, an apron, pouch and possibly shoes.. and definitely the cutlery
> set;)
>
> michaela de bruce
> http://glittersweet.com
>
>
>
> --
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> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jun  3 16:57:29 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] powdered hair
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Yes, earworm indeed!  What was that, 30+ years ago yet I remember their jingle.  How's that for advertising?  Is there anything comprable in modern times?  (Earworm alert! <G>)

Pssssst it's not a dry shampoo, oh no
Pssssst it's not a wet shampoo, oh no
Spray and brush is all you do - then go
'cause Clairol freshens your hair instantly...etc.

----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
>
> > I think we could say the practice continued to 20th century.  Does
> > anyone remember the spray shampoo called Psssssst?  Catchy jingle said
> > it wasn't a dry or wet shampoo but that you just spray and brush....
> 
> Aaaaggghh! Earworm! Get it out!
> 
> Psssssst. There's something new!
> Psssssst. Instant spray shampoo!
> Clairol freshens your hair instantly
> With P-s-s-s-s-s-s-t!
> 
> Aaaaauuuuggghhh!
> 
> --Robin
> who used it...once

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On Friday 03 June 2005 11:54 am, Julie wrote:
> I think we could say the practice continued to 20th century.  Does anyone
> remember the spray shampoo called Psssssst?  Catchy jingle said it wasn't a
> dry or wet shampoo but that you just spray and brush.  

They still sell it; I've seen it in drug stores.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Friday 03 June 2005 9:21 am, Karen R Bergquist wrote:
> On the other hand I remember reading in a source (can't remember which
> one, I've read so many!) that Queen E was 5'7" tall. At one point she was
> talking to a visiting dignitary while walking thru a palace and made the
> joke that she was 'as big as a door'. 

While we're comparing notes, I vaguely remember reading that measurements of 
her effigy measured about 5 ft 3 or 4.


> While Elizabethan doors might have 
> been somewhat smaller than later doors, they were still at least 6 feet
> tall. I think that the combination of being somewhat tall with an tall
> elaborate hairstyle and the wide farthingale and sleeves might have made
> her quite literally as big as an average door.

Or at least as *wide.*  My recollection is that the average door--as opposed 
to the front doors of a cathedral or public building--was quite narrow at 
least through the 18th century.  
[snip]
>
> P.S. As a ten year old American girl I was well over 5 feet tall......

As a 10-year old American girl, I was barely 5 ft 1--as tall as I am now.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Ooh, shoes, (was: Costuming myths (just for fun...) )
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On Friday 03 June 2005 10:29 am, Marc Carlson wrote:
> >From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
> >P.S. Let's not forget "pointy toed shoes with points so long they
> >have to be fastened with chains to the knees so the wearer doesn't
> >trip over them" <g>
>
> That's a  personal favorite.  Mind you, I can't find anything to discount
> the possibility that SOMEONE did it once, and people just kept repeating
> it, but I doubt it.   If nothing else, the laws restricting the length of 
> shoes to social rank would pretty much dictate that the only people who
> could be wearing shoes with points THAT long would be royalty.

Agreed.  I suspect that, if anyone did do it, it would be on par for rarity 
with the model who zipped herself into (designer) blue jeans that were so 
tight she could not bend at the hips sufficiently to sit down, and had to get 
to her photo shoot lying down across the back seat of a cab.  (Or is that an 
urban legend?)  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Well, I passed my prelim exams and am now a real doctoral candidate.  
woohoo!!!!!

This is a question I was asked and kinda stumped me.  Apparently I 
answered ok....
"What did Neanderthal's wear?"

:D

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Reunite Pangaea!

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
people.
- Giordano Bruno

Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
- Gunn

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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 19:50:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 You might want to consider this info before dumping
orris root on your head:

 "Iris florentina (orris root): problems.

Angella Anderson, Mar 1994, herblist
Sender: "Medicinal and Aromatic Plants discussion
list" <HERB.TREARN.BITNET>
From: Angella Anderson <unicorn.UX1.CSO.UIUC.EDU>
Subject: Re: orris root

>> Question: what is orris root?
> Orris root is the root of Iris florentina. When
ground it is used as a fixative in perfurmes &
potpourris. You usually sprinkle some of the oil on
the orris & stir it together to cover it with the
scent. Then you add it to the potpourri.

Orris root is also ****highly allergenic***. Alot of
people are allergic to orris root. But I have been
told that many manufacturers are now using new
fixatives for fragrances. I can only use a couple
different kinds of make-up such as Clinique, and
others that are not available in my area and are much
more expensive than Clinique!! I break out in hives or
have sneezing fits if get too much exposure at one
time!!"

 Guess you should try this very judiciously.
Melody



--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

> 
> On Thu, 2 Jun 2005, Chris Laning wrote:
> 
> > At 10:19 AM +1200 6/3/05, michaela wrote:
> > >
> > >"If the hair is still oily and lies flat on the
> head, sprinkle a little
> > >powdered orris-root on the hair, then brush it
> out thoroughly. This will
> > >make the hair soft and fluffy, will polish and
> gloss it, and the odour from
> > >the orris-root is delightfully refreshing and
> pleasant."
> > 
>  >  
> Something scented would be nice. Apparently orris
> root powder is sold at
> craft stores, for potpourris. I'm going to check it
> out. 
> >  
> --Robin
> 
> 

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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: spiders..Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Same here - however I *like* a spider (and web) in my tent.

They eat all of the flying insects that somehow are attracted to me like kids to candy.

Katheryne
who is alergic to insect stings

 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> 
> >I had been given the name Spider Woman or Starspider by an elder  because of my unique ability to attract spiders especially but not exclusively when out doors. Five minutes after I have my tent up there will be at least one spider with their web up inside it.

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair, was costuming myths
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 23:16:17 -0400
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On Friday 03 June 2005 2:21 pm, lauren.walker@comcast.net wrote:
> More on hair: I, too remember when once a week was regarded as normal for
> hair washing, and the ad campaigns to encourage more frequent washage. 

I never went in for daily washing, even when it was popular--my hair became 
too hard to manage, that way.  But before I was 40 or so, my hair was prone 
to get very greasy, so I usually washed it several times a week.

Now, my hair is more fragile and much drier, so I wash it much less.  However, 
my scalp gets sebum deposits like crazy if I don't wash at least my scalp at 
least once every other week.  (Then my scalp becomes very itchy, as someone 
else on the list described.)  Of course, if you use any detergent on your 
scalp, some of it will end up on your hair, but I don't focus on putting the 
shampoo on my hair anymore, just on my scalp--and my hair seems to be better 
off for it.  

[snip]

>It's also much more 19th-century wavy and lush if I am getting a
> lot of exercise -- as my pals a! t the dojo used to say, there's nothing
> for beautiful hair like sweat. 

Not for me.  Sweat does nothing for my hair but make it look stringy and 
encouraging the sebum to build up on my scalp even faster.  (Humidity, on the 
other hand, as from humid weather or light rain, does make my hair 
wavier.)  :-)



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 20:22:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes /dry shampoos
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ah yes...I remember gritty,flea powder
consistency,(now i can appreciate what the cat went
thru)
 I remember the improved product "Psssssst".. arasol
powder dry shampoo. My mom always was cutting edge...
melody

--- Helen  Pinto <hpinto@mindspring.com> wrote:

> Michaela wrote
> >>"If the hair is still oily and lies flat on the
> head, sprinkle a little
> >>powdered orris-root on the hair, then brush it out
> thoroughly. This will
> >>make the hair soft and fluffy, will polish and
> gloss it, and the odour 
> >>from
> >>the orris-root is delightfully refreshing and
> pleasant."
> Then Chris wrote
> > Anyone else old enough to remember using cornmeal
> for this? I remember my 
> > mom doing this sort of "dry shampoo" treatment on
> me a few times when I 
> > was quite young.
> > -- 
> 
> How about something called "Minipoo", as in "when
> you can't shampoo, 
> minipoo".  It came in a shaker can, sort of like
> grated parmesan cheese, and 
> you shook it onto your hair, let it sit a while,
> then brushed it out.  This 
> was back in the late 50s/early 60's.  I don't
> remember how successful a 
> product it was, but I do remember getting dosed with
> it in the winter or 
> when I was sick.
>               -Helen/Aidan
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
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How about -- 

1) You can't run or climb in long skirts.

and of course:

2) You can't breathe, much less do anything strenuous, in a corset.

Which reminds me ... the latter has been discussed numerous times here on
the list, of course. When the Antonio Banderas Zorro movie came out, someone
on this list actually asked if you could "really" fence in a corset like
Catherine Zeta Jones. Ha ha! If that person is still on the list, I don't
mean to embarrass you. It was just so funny. The actress was fencing in a
corset, about 50 times larger than life, but the person's idea that it was
impossible couldn't overcome the evidence of his/her own eyes! She was
actually fencing in a corset, so yes, it could be done. Was it done often?
Beats me!

Gail Finke

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Whatever was fashionable of course!  Congratulations!

Sg

Althea Turner wrote:

> Well, I passed my prelim exams and am now a real doctoral candidate.  
> woohoo!!!!!
>
> This is a question I was asked and kinda stumped me.  Apparently I 
> answered ok....
> "What did Neanderthal's wear?"
>
> :

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Subject: [h-cost] ISO millinary buckram/ stiffener??
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I am trying to re-furbish my mother's wedding headpiece/ crown.

However it has been ravaged by 42 years of neglect. It is in amazingly good condition - however the stiffener (buckram?) has gone and it needs to be replaced.

This is the item that is on the 'back' of the headpiece, that protects the beadwork stitching from damage.

All I need is a piece 3 1/2" wide by 16" long (I've included 'fudge factor' ) I carefully detached the old piece and can use it as a template for the new one.

The old piece seemed to have a sorta slipery/ satin-y side out and a webbing/ fiberous type stuff against the stiching. It also appears to be glued (pasted) on.

My local fabric stores don't carry anything like this, the only thing closest is either iron-on fusing or heavy duck/ canvas.

Can anyone help me here?
The wedding is July 10th and I would like to get all of the sewing done by the end of June.

Thanks
Katheryne

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On Friday 03 June 2005 9:47 pm, Althea Turner wrote:
> Well, I passed my prelim exams and am now a real doctoral candidate.
> woohoo!!!!!

Excellent!  Congratulations.
>
> This is a question I was asked and kinda stumped me.  Apparently I
> answered ok....
> "What did Neanderthal's wear?"

Herbert Norris actually tried to answer this one in "Ancient European Costume 
and Fashion" or whatever that volume was called.  Considering he had no real 
information, the answer wasn't bad.  It deserved points for moxie, at 
least.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ISO millinary buckram/ stiffener?? try here.....
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site with buckram, various hole size:
 http://dollarfabric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?
and here are preformed shapes,maybe one will match
yours:
  http://www.theatrehouse.com/
 hope it helps,
Melody

--- purplkat@optonline.net wrote:

> I am trying to re-furbish my mother's wedding
> headpiece/ crown.
> 
> However it has been ravaged by 42 years of neglect.
> It is in amazingly good condition - however the
> stiffener (buckram?) has gone and it needs to be
> replaced.
> 
> This is the item that is on the 'back' of the
> headpiece, that protects the beadwork stitching from
> damage.
> 
> All I need is a piece 3 1/2" wide by 16" long (I've
> included 'fudge factor' ) I carefully detached the
> old piece and can use it as a template for the new
> one.
> 
> The old piece seemed to have a sorta slipery/
> satin-y side out and a webbing/ fiberous type stuff
> against the stiching. It also appears to be glued
> (pasted) on.
> 
> My local fabric stores don't carry anything like
> this, the only thing closest is either iron-on
> fusing or heavy duck/ canvas.
> 
> Can anyone help me here?
> The wedding is July 10th and I would like to get all
> of the sewing done by the end of June.
> 
> Thanks
> Katheryne
> 
> 


		
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	<200506032054.04383.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>> P.S. As a ten year old American girl I was well over 5 feet tall......
>
> As a 10-year old American girl, I was barely 5 ft 1--as tall as I am now. 
> :-)

Well, I was 5'7" at 10, but people do grow at different rates. =}

-E House 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2005 02:01:31 -0400
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On Friday 03 June 2005 9:12 am, Karen R Bergquist wrote:
> On Fri, 3 Jun 2005 00:41:14 -0400 Catherine Olanich Raymond
>
> <cathy@thyrsus.com> writes:
> > Or, perhaps, from behind a pane in his paned slops?  At any event,
> > I'd love to  see the portrait.
>
> Of course I can't find my copy of 'A Visual History of Costume- 16th
> Century' which is where I think I saw the gentleman with the handkerchief
> coming out of his pocket. Rats! 

Aha!  However, *I* have a copy of that book too!  Let me go track mine 
down....

Okay, I've looked through the book twice, and the only image I see showing a 
gentleman with a handkerchief is No. 62.  It's identified as a portrait of 
Sir Nicholas Throckmorton, c. 1562.  However, the handkerchief in question is 
not emerging from a pocket--it's peeping from the mouth of one of those 
ring-mouthed purses.  In this case, the ring has a metal fitting by which it 
is attached to the gentleman's belt.  Ms. Ashelford's caption states as much:  
"The elaborate purse containing the handkerchief is attached to the 
belt."  (p. 71).  I'll grant that it's hard to see what's going on since the 
purse and slops are both very dark in hue--they look indistinguishably black 
in this black-and-white photo.  However, the ring is visible, and there is a 
kind of dark fabric bunch under his left hand that might be the bottom of a 
cloth purse.

If you are thinking of a different image of a gentleman with a handkerchief, 
and find your copy, please let me know what it is!  I'd be most curious.


> Believe me, in the early part of 
> Elizabeth's reign, there was enough fullness in men's breeches to hide a
> decent sized pocket. I think the portrait may have been of Robert Dudley,
> Earl of Leicester....but I can't be sure. 

I've seen several images of Dudley from the 1570s (which I don't think of as 
"the early part" of her reign).  However, I agree with you that by the 1570s 
many  slops were big enough to conceal a period handgun, let alone a 
pocket.  :-)



> If anyone has a copy of the 
> book handy, you can take a look and let me know if I should keep tearing
> my sewing room apart looking for it.

See above.

[I said:]
>
> > If it's the kind of surcoat I think you mean (sleeveless,
> > full-length, with a
> > suggestion of a collar and some fitting through the torso?), I think
> > it came
> > in toward the end of the first half of her reign--which would put it
> > near the 1580s.  Elizabeth took the throne in 1558.
>
> It's a fitted version of the surcoat with sleeves. It's in Queen E's Unl
> on page 188. The portrait is of "'Joan Thornbury, Mrs. Hugh Wakeman'
> panel painting by Hans Eworth 1566. 

Sorry, I don't own a copy of QEWU.  Next time I have access to a copy, I'll 
have to look.

> She wears what is probably a Flanders 
> gown and a white linen handkerchief with a tassel on the corner hangs out
> of the pocket. Present whereabouts unknown." The placement of the pocket
> opening rather far down  on the side of the gown would seem to indicate
> that it is not a separate article tied around her waist.....but look for
> yourself and tell me what you think.

Next time I get a chance, I will, thanks.  Interestingly, Throckmorton's 
handkerchief (see my description of that image, above) also has a tassel on 
the corner.  I wonder if that was typical of the handkerchiefs of the 
well-to-do in period, and if so what the reason for it was.


> > Of course, it all depends upon the date of the costumes in the
> > portrait.  If
> > the portrait is late 1570s-early 1580s, I quite agree with you.
>
> I'm pretty sure that the man's portrait is no later than 1580, and men's
> breeches would have been plenty full at that point. 'The Tailor' by
> Moroni dated 1570 shows very full breeches on a middle class man (page 4
> Patterns of Fashion) 

Right.  We're in agreement on this point.

> and on page 14 there are 4 separate portraits of men 
> ranging from  1556 thru 1574 all showing paned shops with considerable
> fullness.

Do you mean Page 14 of Patterns of Fashion?  (Flip, flip.)  

Yes, you're right that there are 4 portraits of men in slops on this page, but 
all strike me as fairly narrow.  In particular, the 1556 pair worn by Prince 
Carlos do not even seem to be stuffed, and if he had a pocket that contained 
anything bulkier than a handkerchief, I think it would make an unsightly 
bulge.  In the later three portraits, most  of the fullness that they have is 
concentrated at the very bottom, where the leg enters the slops, which 
strikes me as an awkward location for a pocket, though I wouldn't want to 
rule the possibility out without seeing a good reproduction of the garments 
in question.  

Speaking of PofF, Item No. 44--1570-80 Woman's Kirtle is the type of thing I 
hand in mind when you spoke of a "surcoat" above.  Since this garment is 
roughly contemporary with the wider slops, it would not surprise me to find a 
pocket in such a garment, but Arnold's sketch does not show one in this 
specimen.


Thanks for the citations and your comments.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair, was costuming myths
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 20:42:41 -0400
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On Friday 03 June 2005 12:18 pm, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Fri, 3 Jun 2005, Mia Dappert wrote:
> > I seem to remember some of the ladies on the 18c llste experimenting
> > with not washing thier hair for long periods of time.  (To me that's
> > longer than 2 days) They noted that just what you said happened.
> > After the first few days,or being 20-21st century hair that craved
> > washing every few days, it reverted to earlier period hair and was not
> > so.. greasy? as one might expect.
>
> We had a similar discussion on this list in May 2000, in which several
> people on this list described their switch to a non-shampoo method of hair
> care. Teddy, who has beautiful long hair (or did at the time, at least; no
> idea what he's got now) noted that he had not washed his hair for four
> years.
>
> I tried it myself shortly afterward; my adjustment period was about three
> weeks. Since then I have washed my hair perhaps once or twice a year, when
> my eczema springs up and I need to use a medicated shampoo on my scalp.
> That doesn't mean I don't *clean* my hair, I just don't wash it -- I brush
> it thoroughly every day (and clean my brushes), and rinse periodically
> with an infusion from herbs from my garden.
>
> Anyone who has seen me in the last four years can testify as to the
> quality and attractiveness of my hair. I must say it's far more manageable
> than it ever was before. It's definitely not greasy. Interestingly,
> although I used to have very oily hair, it's now normal-leaning-to-dry.
>
> > I my self have never lasted beyond 2-days without my scalp itching.
> > But I remember ladies in my youth (1950's and60's) only getting their
> > hair "done" at the beauty shop once a week, and not washing it
> > inbetween.
>
> I was already at a once-a-week schedule before I started the no-shampoo
> method; my hair is so long it takes a day to dry, so no way I was going to
> wash it every other day! Once a week was pretty standard when I was a kid
> in the 1960s; I remember the marketing push for more frequent washing,
> including the jingle (eek! another earworm!) for "Everynight Shampoo" that
> had the audacity to call itself "natural." Huh?
>
> For that matter, the custom of regular washing with shampoo is less than
> 100 years old -- another marketing push.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Fri, 3 Jun 2005 20:54:04 -0400 Catherine Olanich Raymond 


> While we're comparing notes, I vaguely remember reading that 
> measurements of her effigy measured about 5 ft 3 or 4.

Been there, seen the effigy- it's definitely bigger than 5'3". I have
photos of it around here somewhere, but as i didn't sneak a ruler into
the shot, there's no way I can prove how big it is. ;-) As a matter of
fact, I had the impression that it might have been made larger than
life-size.........The dressed effigy has been extensively made over so
height taken from that is probably not accurate.....although there's
another less famous effigy from Mary I that's largely intact and that
height of that one is 5'5".....wasn't Mary said to be the shorter of the
two sisters?

> Or at least as *wide.*  My recollection is that the average door--as 
> opposed 
> to the front doors of a cathedral or public building--was quite 
> narrow at  least through the 18th century.  

They tend to be both shorter and narrower than modern doors- at least the
ones I have had the opportunity to walk thru. I have a shot of me
standing in front of a door in Shakespeare's Birthplace where even in
modern clothes I fill the doorway quite nicely.....did I mention I'm just
over 5'7" tall?


Karen
Seamstrix
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] exams
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Skins?

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Well, I passed my prelim exams and am now a real doctoral candidate. 
> woohoo!!!!! 
> 
> This is a question I was asked and kinda stumped me. Apparently I 
> answered ok.... 
> "What did Neanderthal's wear?" 
> 
> :D 
> 
> Althea Turner 
> *** althea@alfalfapress.com 
> *** http://www.alfalfapress.com 
> 
> Reunite Pangaea! 
> 
> It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
> masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
> does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
> people. 
> - Giordano Bruno 
> 
> Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well. 
> - Gunn 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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on 6/3/05 12:35 AM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

>> Marie Tucek's 1893 bust supporter is commonly called the first bra:
>> http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/1893braMTucek494397.gif

Not just the first bra -- the first Wonderbra!!

Gail Finke

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
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On Friday 03 June 2005 3:05 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> > It's an interesting thought.  Except for the fact that powder was used by
> > both
> > sexes, both on wigs and on hair styles that never went anywhere near the
> > shoulders (such as the upswept towering women's styles of the 1780s.)
>
> Powdering hair for men started in 1670-80ies if not earlyer and this time
> men had long hair. Perhaps it was just a tradition that started there, and
> went on even if the hair got shorter.

Right.  I remembered that much.

> In 18th century boys of the age of 12 had all their hair cut off and they
> started to wear wigs. And as they wore these wigs all the time, their own
> hair got bad because it was hide away all the time. Same thing happens if
> you wear a hat all the time.
> Women seldom wore wigs in 18th century, but had the hairstyles made of
> their own hair.

I'm not sure whether I knew that or not.


> But the same thing with the wig and hygiene. It also seldom was washed, and
> therefore it was easyer to powder it and fresh it up.

Or at least make sure it held its shape.  Thanks for the details!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Oh yeah, All through this thread I was trying to remember the name of
Minipoo.   I guess we all bought something along those lines at least
once, the ads made it seem so easy.   I tried the cornmeal thing once too.

Kitty
>
> --- Helen  Pinto <hpinto@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>> Michaela wrote
>> >>"If the hair is still oily and lies flat on the
>> head, sprinkle a little
>> >>powdered orris-root on the hair, then brush it out
>> thoroughly. This will
>> >>make the hair soft and fluffy, will polish and
>> gloss it, and the odour
>> >>from
>> >>the orris-root is delightfully refreshing and
>> pleasant."
>> Then Chris wrote
>> > Anyone else old enough to remember using cornmeal
>> for this? I remember my
>> > mom doing this sort of "dry shampoo" treatment on
>> me a few times when I
>> > was quite young.
>> > --
>>
>> How about something called "Minipoo", as in "when
>> you can't shampoo,
>> minipoo".  It came in a shaker can, sort of like
>> grated parmesan cheese, and
>> you shook it onto your hair, let it sit a while,
>> then brushed it out.  This
>> was back in the late 50s/early 60's.  I don't
>> remember how successful a
>> product it was, but I do remember getting dosed with
>> it in the winter or
>> when I was sick.
>>               -Helen/Aidan
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
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On Saturday 04 June 2005 1:16 am, E House wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> >> P.S. As a ten year old American girl I was well over 5 feet tall......
> >
> > As a 10-year old American girl, I was barely 5 ft 1--as tall as I am now.
> >
> > :-)
>
> Well, I was 5'7" at 10, but people do grow at different rates. =}

They sure do.  Occasionally, I wished I'd grown a bit faster, but it's way too 
late to worry about that now!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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	<200506032054.04383.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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>> P.S. As a ten year old American girl I was well over 5 feet tall......
>
> As a 10-year old American girl, I was barely 5 ft 1--as tall as I am now. 
> :-)
>

I never quite made it to five feet tall--about a quarter inch shy of it! 
When I started school, I was smaller than my 3 y.o. son is now.

Dianne

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Date: Sat, 04 Jun 2005 07:56:18 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Mari Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
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Congratulations Althea!!

Now, if I could just screw my courage up to try for one.  ; /

::hugs::   What wonderful news.
Sincerely Mari

>Well, I passed my prelim exams and am now a real doctoral candidate.
>woohoo!!!!!
>
>This is a question I was asked and kinda stumped me.  Apparently I 
>answered ok....
>"What did Neanderthal's wear?"
>
>:D
>
>Althea Turner

Webmaster@vet.cornell.edu

Mari Stewart
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University 


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On Sat, 4 Jun 2005 02:01:31 -0400 Catherine Olanich Raymond 

> Okay, I've looked through the book twice, and the only image I see 
> showing a 
> gentleman with a handkerchief is No. 62.  It's identified as a 
> portrait of 
> Sir Nicholas Throckmorton, c. 1562.  
(snip)

Okay- that might be it, but I can't be sure. I'll just have to take a
stroll thru my Elizabethan costuming books and see if I can find the
image that I have in my mind.....or determine that I'm out of my mind!



> Sorry, I don't own a copy of QEWU.  Next time I have access to a 
> copy, I'll have to look.

The apparent opening for the pocket is at about hand level when the arm
is at more or less full extension which would mean that if it were
separate hanging pockets, the tops of the pouch part would have to be
over 6 inches long with the holding part of the pocket extending even
lower making it difficult to get to items at the bottom of the
pocket.....and I'm sure that the Truth Of The Universe that whatever you
want is at the very bottom of the purse held true even then........If it
is set into the body of the garment, then it can be almost horizontal and
much easier to retrieve items from.


 
> Yes, you're right that there are 4 portraits of men in slops on this 
> page, but 
> all strike me as fairly narrow.  In particular, the 1556 pair worn 
> by Prince 
> Carlos do not even seem to be stuffed, and if he had a pocket that 
> contained 
> anything bulkier than a handkerchief, I think it would make an 
> unsightly bulge.  

Well, what would an Elizabethan man have kept in his pockets? Let's face
it he didn't have even half of what we schlep around on a regular basis.
He might have had the apparently requisite handkerchief, maybe a small
pouch of coins.....maybe not if he wasn't planning on buying
anything....A comb? A rosary or other devotional item? There would not be
a wad of credit cards, car keys, cell phone, checkbook, make-up bag,
house keys, wallet full of paper money, novel to read at lunch,
hairbrush..... and that's just some of the stuff I carry in my purse!
Before we decide if there is enough room for a pocket, we need to have
some idea of what that pocket might have been intended to contain.

Karen
Seamstrix
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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I don't think size can be blamed on food or anything else. I was barely 5' 
tall if I stood up real straight. My older son is 6', my younger 5'3". Older 
son's father was 6', younger son's 6'3". Go figure.

On 6/4/05, Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net> wrote: 
> 
> 
> >> P.S. As a ten year old American girl I was well over 5 feet tall......
> >
> > As a 10-year old American girl, I was barely 5 ft 1--as tall as I am 
> now.
> > :-)
> >
> 
> I never quite made it to five feet tall--about a quarter inch shy of it!
> When I started school, I was smaller than my 3 y.o. son is now.
> 
> Dianne
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 



-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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> 2) You can't breathe, much less do anything strenuous, in a corset.

Depends! If you're wearing the corset correctly, as a support garment,
you should be fine. If you're wearing one to confine your waist and ribs
and mash your breasts together up to your chin, then no.

Arlys
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Hey, congratulations!!! :)

On Fri, 3 Jun 2005 18:47:43 -0700 Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
writes:
> Well, I passed my prelim exams and am now a real doctoral candidate.  
> 
> woohoo!!!!!
> 
> This is a question I was asked and kinda stumped me.  Apparently I 
> answered ok....
> "What did Neanderthal's wear?"

Whatever wandered by that they could kill, skin, and eat, I guess. Darn
them for not leaving records.... ;)

Arlys
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From: Bonnie Booker <aspasia1@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On 6/1/05, Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: 
> 
> 
> >This reminds me...
> >What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal 
> with?
> 
> "18-inch waists were common." Someone pointed out to me that the average
> head is something like 22 inches around. So if the photograph shows the
> head larger than the waist, we're not looking at a photo of any 18-inch
> waist. And pre-PhotoShop photo re-touching is pretty obvious in most 
> cases.
> 
> When I was 16 back in the ' 60s, I had an 18" waist. But then I'm barely 
> 5' tall. Now I would be happy to have an 18" thigh.
> -- 
> Aspasia Moonwind
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2005 10:37:46 -0400
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My paternal great-great-grandparents, born in 1850 and 1852, were 6'4" (him)
and 6'3" (her)!!!  My father was 5'2" in first grade (his teacher was
4'11"). I am 5'10" and the shortest woman in the family.

Genetics will always play a role, no matter what the diet.

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006  


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I like how the "everybody was shorter back then" is said even about the 1950's. 
Hello, all the people born before 1950 raise your hand! 

Wendy

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A friend of mine is looking for something to wear in the historical line; specifically the time period covering Colonial America to (roughly) Lewis and Clark in men's big and tall sizes.  Either premade or patterns would work, he's got someone lined up who can sew.  I don't know if he's looking for seriously authentic or just something that looks good.

Anyone have ideas?  I've got the Folkwear Missouri Boatman's shirt pattern, but I don't even want to think about how much alteration it would take to get the size large enough.  (I made the man's large for me, and the cuffs were almost too tight to fasten.)

I'm willing to pass on responses, but Joe (my friend) gave me permission to post his e-mail as well for anyone who would want to reply directly -- it's cpspalding@aol.com .

Leah
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2005 17:21:18 -0400
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On Friday 03 June 2005 9:15 pm, Karen R Bergquist wrote:
> On Fri, 3 Jun 2005 20:54:04 -0400 Catherine Olanich Raymond
>
> > While we're comparing notes, I vaguely remember reading that
> > measurements of her effigy measured about 5 ft 3 or 4.
>
> Been there, seen the effigy- it's definitely bigger than 5'3". 

Not having seen it or having another source that has seen and measured it 
handy, I'll have to take your word for it.  


> I have 
> photos of it around here somewhere, but as i didn't sneak a ruler into
> the shot, there's no way I can prove how big it is. ;-) As a matter of
> fact, I had the impression that it might have been made larger than
> life-size.........The dressed effigy has been extensively made over so
> height taken from that is probably not accurate....

Now that's certainly conceivable, but without having looked into the subject I 
can't be sure.

> although there's 
> another less famous effigy from Mary I that's largely intact and that
> height of that one is 5'5".....wasn't Mary said to be the shorter of the
> two sisters?

I do not recall ever having seen any source that has purported to comment on 
the relative heights of the Tudor sisters.  

>
> > Or at least as *wide.*  My recollection is that the average door--as
> > opposed
> > to the front doors of a cathedral or public building--was quite
> > narrow at  least through the 18th century.
>
> They tend to be both shorter and narrower than modern doors- at least the
> ones I have had the opportunity to walk thru. I have a shot of me
> standing in front of a door in Shakespeare's Birthplace where even in
> modern clothes I fill the doorway quite nicely.....did I mention I'm just
> over 5'7" tall?

You might have.  Anyway, you've confirmed my recollection on this point.

I was unwilling to speculate that Elizabeth would have to stoop to get through 
a period door (that gets back to the height issue, above) but it's clear from 
her portraits that she wore wider skirts as her reign went on.  She'd 
certainly have trouble getting one of them through a period door.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
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I was just recently told (by someone who is repeating what they were told)
that wearing a corset over a long period of time will weaken the back
muscles so that when you get older you have to wear a corset.
This sounds like BS to me but has anyone heard from a reputable health
source that this is true?

De

-----Original Message-----
> 2) You can't breathe, much less do anything strenuous, in a corset.

Depends! If you're wearing the corset correctly, as a support garment,
you should be fine. If you're wearing one to confine your waist and ribs
and mash your breasts together up to your chin, then no.

Arlys


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I used to dance the cancan in a corset for the Living History Center's "Old 
San Francisco/California Faires."  Our costumes were designed on a lace up 
the back corset. Since it was a long over the hips style, our kick range was 
reduced to 90-135 degrees but we sang and danced around. You just had to 
watch that the person helping you dress didn't get over enthusiastic and 
lace it up too tightly!

Jennifer McArdle


<<How about --

1) You can't run or climb in long skirts.

and of course:

2) You can't breathe, much less do anything strenuous, in a corset.

Which reminds me ... the latter has been discussed numerous times here on
the list, of course. When the Antonio Banderas Zorro movie came out, someone
on this list actually asked if you could "really" fence in a corset like
Catherine Zeta Jones. Ha ha! If that person is still on the list, I don't
mean to embarrass you. It was just so funny. The actress was fencing in a
corset, about 50 times larger than life, but the person's idea that it was
impossible couldn't overcome the evidence of his/her own eyes! She was
actually fencing in a corset, so yes, it could be done. Was it done often?
Beats me!

Gail Finke>>


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      We're not talking about weekend use, but constant use, yes. 
Check out the fetish sites - some women are unable to go uncorsetted 
for a great length of time.

      While not quite the same as a corset, I wore a back brace from 
age 10 to 16.  It was fairly solid around the hips.  I had to do 
exercises that supposedly would keep the back muscles in shape. (As 
if 15 minutes a day was enough!)  About age 17 to 20 I worked part 
time in a retail store.  On weekends (usually a 4 hour shift) I could 
definitely tell my lower back was complaining.

      Eventually it got better, and I don't suspect I will ever "need" a corset.

      -Carol


>I was just recently told (by someone who is repeating what they were 
>told) that wearing a corset over a long period of time will weaken 
>the back muscles so that when you get older you have to wear a 
>corset. This sounds like BS to me but has anyone heard from a 
>reputable health source that this is true?
>
>De
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 > "I like how the "everybody was shorter back then" is said even about 
  > the 1950's.
 > Hello, all the people born before 1950 raise your hand! "

Hah, that's a laugh!  My mom was born in 1941 and my dad in 1937, and 
they're BOTH much taller than I am (5ft 5-3/4 in).
Michelle
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
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At 19:05 04/06/2005 -0400, you wrote:

>      We're not talking about weekend use, but constant use, yes. Check 
> out the fetish sites - some women are unable to go uncorsetted for a 
> great length of time.
>
>      While not quite the same as a corset, I wore a back brace from age 
> 10 to 16.  It was fairly solid around the hips.  I had to do exercises 
> that supposedly would keep the back muscles in shape. (As if 15 minutes a 
> day was enough!)  About age 17 to 20 I worked part time in a retail 
> store.  On weekends (usually a 4 hour shift) I could definitely tell my 
> lower back was complaining.
>
>      Eventually it got better, and I don't suspect I will ever "need" a 
> corset.
>
>      -Carol
>
>
>>I was just recently told (by someone who is repeating what they were 
>>told) that wearing a corset over a long period of time will weaken the 
>>back muscles so that when you get older you have to wear a corset. This 
>>sounds like BS to me but has anyone heard from a reputable health source 
>>that this is true?
>>
>>De


I was told by a corsetiere (making corsets during the 40's and 50's) that 
women who had been in corsets since their teens, and were now elderly, had 
got so used to the holding up a corset gives, they were not comfortable 
without. Not medical, but someone "in the trade".

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 19:10 04/06/2005 -0400, you wrote:
> > "I like how the "everybody was shorter back then" is said even about  > 
> the 1950's.
> > Hello, all the people born before 1950 raise your hand! "
>
>Hah, that's a laugh!  My mom was born in 1941 and my dad in 1937, and 
>they're BOTH much taller than I am (5ft 5-3/4 in).
>Michelle


I was born in 1943, and was considered a good size at 5' 41/2". My Mom, 
born in 1922 barely reached 5'. My Dad (1920) came from a taller, mining 
village family, and all the boys were over 6' and the girl was 5' 7".

Suzi


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>>>Before then, upper hose fit much too closely (and,
>>>while codpieces were in fashion, there wouldn't have been much of a need
>>>for another form of pocket.  One could even argue that the codpiece was
>>>superior because it would be really hard for pickpockets to get at it
>>>without alerting the prorprietor. )
>>>      
>>>
>>I think you may have highlighted another myth here...
>>    
>>
>
>I don't deny that there's no proof that anyone carried his ...money in his 
>codpiece.  On the other hand, I know of no proof that  it *wasn't* done, 
>either. 
>
Which is a damned good argument for serving sushi and hamburgers at 
feasts, isn't it?


Adele d'M
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Karen R Bergquist wrote:

>On the other hand I remember reading in a source (can't remember which
>one, I've read so many!) that Queen E was 5'7" tall. At one point she was
>talking to a visiting dignitary while walking thru a palace and made the
>joke that she was 'as big as a door'. While Elizabethan doors might have
>been somewhat smaller than later doors, they were still at least 6 feet
>tall. I think that the combination of being somewhat tall with an tall
>elaborate hairstyle and the wide farthingale and sleeves might have made
>her quite literally as big as an average door.
>  
>
Or for that matter, it could mean that with big sleeves and farthingale, 
she was simple as _wide_ as a door.

Adele d'M
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Mia Dappert wrote:

>I seem to remember some of the ladies on the 18c llste experimenting with not washing thier hair for long periods of time.  (To me that's longer than 2 days) They noted that just what you said happened.  After the first few days,or being 20-21st century hair that craved washing every few days, it reverted to earlier period hair and was not so.. greasy? as one might expect.  I my self have never lasted beyond 2-days without my scalp itching.  But I remember ladies in my youth (1950's and60's) only getting their hair "done" at the beauty shop once a week, and not washing it inbetween.  
>
>And some of the black ladies I work with look at me as if I'm crazy when I say how frequently I was my hair.  They only wash theirs once a week
>  
>

I go through periods of only shampooing once a week or so.  Basically, 
if you wash it less, it will need less washing.

Adele d'M
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Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2005 11:49:11 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] first bras
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Julie wrote:

>----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:> 
>
>  
>
>>>Marie Tucek's 1893 bust supporter is commonly called the first bra:
>>>http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/1893braMTucek494397.gif
>>>      
>>>
>>Yup, looks like a bra, all right.  Now I'm mad at the so-called histories I'd 
>>read that don't include it.
>>    
>>
>
>Has anyone heard the story that the first modern cantilevered bra was developed by Howard Hughes for Jane Russell?  Who really designed that bra?
>  
>


I don't know, but Jane Russell said later that she wore her own bra for 
the "infamous" photo shoot.

Adele d'M
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Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2005 10:21:38 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Born in the 50's. 5'1" at age 11. 5'2 by age 12, and still had 2 more
inches to go.

No genetic basis for it though, being adopted.

Obligatory costume content. My mother gave up buying me clothes during
this wild growth spurt. Instead, she made my clothes (she was a wonderful
seamstress) with huge hems neatly tuck and sewn so they could be let out!

Arlys

On Sat, 4 Jun 2005 10:36:18 -0400 Bonnie Booker <aspasia1@gmail.com>
writes:
> On 6/1/05, Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > >This reminds me...
> > >What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to 
> deal 
> > with?
> > 
> > "18-inch waists were common." Someone pointed out to me that the 
> average
> > head is something like 22 inches around. So if the photograph 
> shows the
> > head larger than the waist, we're not looking at a photo of any 
> 18-inch
> > waist. And pre-PhotoShop photo re-touching is pretty obvious in 
> most 
> > cases.
> > 
> > When I was 16 back in the ' 60s, I had an 18" waist. But then I'm 
> barely 
> > 5' tall. Now I would be happy to have an 18" thigh.
> > -- 
> > Aspasia Moonwind
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 5:41 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths


> I was just recently told (by someone who is repeating what they were told)
> that wearing a corset over a long period of time will weaken the back
> muscles so that when you get older you have to wear a corset.
> This sounds like BS to me but has anyone heard from a reputable health
> source that this is true?
>
> De
>
Actually there is plenty of evidence that muscles that don't do anything
atrophy over time, in the same way as working the muscles makes them
stronger not working the muscles makes them weaker. Because the corset does
the work of keeping your posture erect your muscles get used to not doing
the work. It would probably not be so bad that you were unable to use the
muscles at all but if you had been wearing a corset since you were a
teenager (or even younger) every day of your life then yes your muscles
would get weaker and 40 years on you probably would find it difficult to go
without a corset. A quick google on muscle atrophy and corsets turned up
this page http://www.staylace.com/medicaladvice/med_44.htm with advice from
a doctor.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Someone wrote:

> 
>  > "I like how the "everybody was shorter back then" is said even 
> about  > the 1950's.
>  > Hello, all the people born before 1950 raise your hand! "

Actually, this is partially true.  There were a noticable number of adults in the 1950's who suffered from the effects of having been undernourished as children during the 1930's.  Slightly diminshied stature would definately be one result.


-Katie 


-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: costume myth
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 13:17:13 +1000
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: costume myth


> At 19:10 04/06/2005 -0400, you wrote:
> > > "I like how the "everybody was shorter back then" is said even about
>
> > the 1950's.
> > > Hello, all the people born before 1950 raise your hand! "
> >
<snip>
but statistically in western countries it's true, probably only an inch or
so spread across the whole population but average height is less for those
who reached their full adult height 30 years ago than people who reached
their adult height 3 years ago.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <5.1.0.14.2.20050603103933.014dedb8@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] how to clean & store a lace collar
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 13:27:22 +1000
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<snip>
> My friend who collects lace told me to wrap it round a bottle or jar
before
> washing in plain water to start with. It can be dried that way too. I
don't
> know about using anything stronger (she lives in Denmark with no e-mail so
> I can't ask), but real soap (Lux, Fairy, shaved bar soap, baby shampoo or
> wash - not detergent) is probably as safe as anything, and would be what
> was used originally.
>
> I store everything *old* in acid free tissue in archive boxes. (Part of my
> storage problem!)
>
> Suzi

Suzi,
Thanks for the advice, I rinsed it and then washed it in warm water with lux
flakes, I couldn't wrap it around a bottle effectively as it's essentially a
circle shape so because the outside is bigger than the inside it wouldn't
work right. Instead I decided it would probably cope with floating loose in
the water and I dried it flat on a towel near the heater. Now I've just got
to wait until I've finished my end of semester essays (all of my subjects
decided to give me research essays instead of exams, but that means I've got
to go out and spend my time on research instead of just reading back through
my notes) to go out & buy some acid free paper, though for now I'm sure it's
OK between a couple of layers of cotton.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
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Maybe it's a perceived comfort-level thing and not medical at all (at 
least for some)? Like getting used to wearing a bra? Or wearing skirts 
and not liking pants, or vice versa? It may be the discrepancy that is 
perceived as "discomfort," rather than actual discomfort, if that makes 
any sort of sense....I know that the restriction I used to feel when 
wearing my late-16th century for SCA things took some getting used to. 
It was a different way for my body to move and "feel," even when I was 
sitting still....Not bad or painful, just different.
Of course, I think that's half the fun of making historical clothing! ;o)
--sue

Suzi Clarke wrote:


> 
> I was told by a corsetiere (making corsets during the 40's and 50's) 
> that women who had been in corsets since their teens, and were now 
> elderly, had got so used to the holding up a corset gives, they were not 
> comfortable without. Not medical, but someone "in the trade".
> 
> Suzi


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 00:00:17 -0400
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On Saturday 04 June 2005 7:41 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> >>>Before then, upper hose fit much too closely (and,
> >>>while codpieces were in fashion, there wouldn't have been much of a need
> >>>for another form of pocket.  One could even argue that the codpiece was
> >>>superior because it would be really hard for pickpockets to get at it
> >>>without alerting the prorprietor. )
> >>
> >>I think you may have highlighted another myth here...
> >
> >I don't deny that there's no proof that anyone carried his ...money in his
> >codpiece.  On the other hand, I know of no proof that  it *wasn't* done,
> >either.
>
> Which is a damned good argument for serving sushi and hamburgers at
> feasts, isn't it?

Of course not, and that's not what I was trying to say above.

I wasn't attempting to defend the codpiece comment as *truth*.  I was trying 
to make the point that it isn't *myth*.  A myth is a "fact" or, perhaps more 
properly, a factoid, that people relay as true even though there is evidence 
that it is not true.  If there is no evidence on the point one way or the 
other, you cannot say it's true--but you also can't say that it's a "myth", 
either.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 00:19:48 -0400
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On Saturday 04 June 2005 9:58 am, Karen R Bergquist wrote:
> On Sat, 4 Jun 2005 02:01:31 -0400 Catherine Olanich Raymond
>
> > Okay, I've looked through the book twice, and the only image I see
> > showing a
> > gentleman with a handkerchief is No. 62.  It's identified as a
> > portrait of
> > Sir Nicholas Throckmorton, c. 1562.
>
> (snip)
>
> Okay- that might be it, but I can't be sure. I'll just have to take a
> stroll thru my Elizabethan costuming books and see if I can find the
> image that I have in my mind.....or determine that I'm out of my mind!

If you do find it, please let me know--now I'm curious!

>
> > Sorry, I don't own a copy of QEWU.  Next time I have access to a
> > copy, I'll have to look.
>
> The apparent opening for the pocket is at about hand level when the arm
> is at more or less full extension which would mean that if it were
> separate hanging pockets, the tops of the pouch part would have to be
> over 6 inches long

That assumes that the hanging pocket would necessarily hang with the very 
top of the pouch even with the edge of the pocket slit--the way a modern 
pocket works.  However, I don't think it's at all clear that the 
hanging-pocket-with-slit set up would have needed to work that way.  See my 
comments below.

By the way, the pockets shown in the 17th c slops in PofF are trapezoidal in 
shape (compared to the more modern rectangular or kidney shapes) and as made 
up would be about 6 inches wide and 12 inches deep.

> with the holding part of the pocket extending even 
> lower making it difficult to get to items at the bottom of the
> pocket.....and I'm sure that the Truth Of The Universe that whatever you
> want is at the very bottom of the purse held true even then........If it
> is set into the body of the garment, then it can be almost horizontal and
> much easier to retrieve items from.

I agree that the stuff one wants always decends to the bottom of the container 
(whether it be a purse, pocket, chest, or whatever).

However, since hanging pockets are not by definition attached to the garment, 
once you've reached into the slit you can haul them up as far as you need to 
in order to reach the stuff on the bottom.  (In fact, having the pocket hang 
a fair way below the slit when the pocket is not being accessed could have 
been considered a feature; greater safety from potential pickpockets, and a 
smaller chance that the pocket would create a bulge to spoil the line of the 
dress.)

Of course, all of this is speculation anyway and you might well have the right 
of it...



> > Yes, you're right that there are 4 portraits of men in slops on this
> > page, but
> > all strike me as fairly narrow.  In particular, the 1556 pair worn
> > by Prince
> > Carlos do not even seem to be stuffed, and if he had a pocket that
> > contained
> > anything bulkier than a handkerchief, I think it would make an
> > unsightly bulge.
>
> Well, what would an Elizabethan man have kept in his pockets? 

The list you give below sounds about right for a wealthy man.  

> Let's face 
> it he didn't have even half of what we schlep around on a regular basis.

That's true, but beside the point.  We don't need to presume that any 16th c 
gentleman would have as many pockets in his slops as a modern man might have 
in his jeans or even his suit trousers.  Moreover, depending on cut and 
fabric even a small number of contents could "spoil the line."  That's one 
reason modern tailors frown when a customer actually uses the pockets in his 
suit jacket, for example.


> He might have had the apparently requisite handkerchief, maybe a small
> pouch of coins.....

Which might have been quite heavy--remember, period coinage had a higher 
precious metal content than anything in use today.


> maybe not if he wasn't planning on buying 
> anything....A comb? A rosary or other devotional item?

 Whether an unsightly bulge would result from carrying items in a pocket would 
depend more on the bulk and weight of the items relative to the size of the 
pocket, and where the pocket hung in relation to the outermost surface of the 
garment, not from how much could be stuffed in the pocket in absolute terms.


> There would not be 
> a wad of credit cards, car keys, cell phone, checkbook, make-up bag,
> house keys, wallet full of paper money, novel to read at lunch,
> hairbrush..... and that's just some of the stuff I carry in my purse!

I don't carry a purse myself (gave it up decades ago except on the rare 
occasions when I'm wearing a skirt in public), and on average men carry many 
fewer items in their pockets than women carry either in pockets or purses.


> Before we decide if there is enough room for a pocket, we need to have
> some idea of what that pocket might have been intended to contain.

That's a good point.

One thing we can do is to go back to PofF and look at the dimensions of the 
pockets Arnold found in those early 17th century slops.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>On Saturday 04 June 2005 7:41 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
>  
>
>>>I don't deny that there's no proof that anyone carried his ...money in his
>>>codpiece.  On the other hand, I know of no proof that  it *wasn't* done,
>>>either.
>>>      
>>>
>>Which is a damned good argument for serving sushi and hamburgers at
>>feasts, isn't it?
>>    
>>
>
>Of course not, and that's not what I was trying to say above.
>
>I wasn't attempting to defend the codpiece comment as *truth*.  I was trying 
>to make the point that it isn't *myth*.  A myth is a "fact" or, perhaps more 
>properly, a factoid, that people relay as true even though there is evidence 
>that it is not true.  If there is no evidence on the point one way or the 
>other, you cannot say it's true--but you also can't say that it's a "myth", 
>either.
>  
>
But that's eaxctly what the codpiece-as-purse theory is.  I've heard it 
repeated as "truth" more than once.  There is no evidence I know of that 
it is true-- no literary or documentary evidence.  No extant examples 
showing any evidence of pouch-ness.  Nothing.  It is a theory made of 
whole cloth.


Adele d'M
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>> "What did Neanderthal's wear?"
>
The ones I know usually wear dirty t-shirts with obscene messages and 
jeans...

Kate 


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Status: RO

Yeah, it's true. Corsets hold one into a rigidly upright posture - it's
impossible to slouch, or to tie one's own shoelaces in a properly worn
corset (All those people who CAN tie their shoelaces, well... how's your
job in Cirque du Soleil going?). That means that neither your back
muscles nor your abdominals are called on to do their usual task of
holding you upright. So yes, if you wear a corset constantly for a long
period of time, more than a few months, say... those muscles will
weaken. Over the course of several years, the effect will be
significant.

It doesn't mean that you'll collapse entirely (even our Victorian
forebears too them off to bathe and sleep and got a little "exercise"
that way), but going without a corset will be very uncomfortable and
tiring.

It's like asking your legs to run five miles when they've never had to
do more than carry you around the house. 

That said, one could certainly train ones muscles back into shape. You
wouldn't "have" to wear a corset, but you'd be in pain until you could
strengthen them enough to do the task.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 3:41 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths

I was just recently told (by someone who is repeating what they were
told)
that wearing a corset over a long period of time will weaken the back
muscles so that when you get older you have to wear a corset.
This sounds like BS to me but has anyone heard from a reputable health
source that this is true?

De

-----Original Message-----
> 2) You can't breathe, much less do anything strenuous, in a corset.

Depends! If you're wearing the corset correctly, as a support garment,
you should be fine. If you're wearing one to confine your waist and ribs
and mash your breasts together up to your chin, then no.

Arlys


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>> >Before then, upper hose fit much too closely (and,
>> >while codpieces were in fashion, there wouldn't have been
>> >much of a need
>> > for another form of pocket.
>
>> I think you may have highlighted another myth here...
>
>I don't deny that there's no proof that anyone carried his
> ...money in his codpiece.  On the other hand, I know of no
> proof that  it *wasn't* done, either.  And you must grant
> that although a preoccupied man might fail to 
> notice a tug at his belt or other part of his body, reaching
> for his crotch could not fail to get a reaction.  :-)

True, but I would think a man reaching for his crotch when asked to pay for something would have gotten a reaction as well :) .

Leah
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 20:37:43 +0200
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Hi Derede
One of my clients at my job is wearing a support corset because she has a 
weak back.
She complains that she feel as if her back collapses every time i undo her 
corset. She complains that her muscles are weakened by the corset because it 
almost keeps her up ( the corset) and not her muscles.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 9:41 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths


>I was just recently told (by someone who is repeating what they were told)
> that wearing a corset over a long period of time will weaken the back
> muscles so that when you get older you have to wear a corset.
> This sounds like BS to me but has anyone heard from a reputable health
> source that this is true?
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> 2) You can't breathe, much less do anything strenuous, in a corset.
>
> Depends! If you're wearing the corset correctly, as a support garment,
> you should be fine. If you're wearing one to confine your waist and ribs
> and mash your breasts together up to your chin, then no.
>
> Arlys
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 21:08:38 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Marc Carlson <marccarlson20@hotmail.com> wrote
>>From: Stephanie Smith <sismith42@yahoo.com>
>>Why do you think this? Certainly there have been
>>points in history in which military "style" has
>>influenced civilian style (eg: late 1990's, when camos
>>were cool, Regency/Napoleonic times, when ladies wore
>>Scarlet outfits with gold frogging-- or is that
>>another urban legend I believe in? *g*)... why would
>>influence due to function be so very different?
>>...
>
>Simply as an example of military wear influencing style (there are many 
>others):  The introduction of the raised stacked heel in Europe for 
>men's shoes around 1600 seems to have been brought in with the fashion 
>of emulating the Turkish riding boot.  Women's shoes traditionally have 
>carved solid core heel with a heel cover, probably ultimately derived 
>from the patten.
>
>Then of course, there are modern cargo pants -- those pockets were 
>originally put there so soldiers could store more "stuff", like 
>grenades and amunition, in easy to reach places...  At least that's 
>what *I* used them for :)
>
>Marc
>
But when will flight crew pants be produced for fashion - the ones with 
write-on-wipe-off pads on the thighs?  That would be seriously handy. 
Of course, they'd have to ban them in schools for exams - the girls 
would have to go back to writing on their thighs under short skirts like 
we did!

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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Status: RO

hello all, here is another of my simplestic questions.

In making a t-tunic  with the underarm gores, how big should the gores 
be? Yes i know that this depends on the size of the guy(mine wears 
t-shirt size XL-Tall), but I am not sure of the proportions.  I have the 
body and the sleeves down ok, but i need to do work on the gores.  I 
currently have the gores being square of about 8 inchs, which seems too 
big.   How big are the gores on the tunics you make for guys? 

Also, My guy is complaing that the arm seem seems too far down on his 
sholder-i think this is just a fearture of a t-tunic (if the sholders 
are where he want then, then his belly would NOT fit!)

j schueller

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] exams
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Quoting Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>:

> Well, I passed my prelim exams and am now a real doctoral candidate.
> woohoo!!!!!
>

WooHoo indeed!  Been there and done that and lived to tell about it!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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In a message dated 6/5/2005 4:10:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jaurbik@optonline.net writes:

I  
currently have the gores being square of about 8 inchs, which seems too  
big.   How big are the gores on the tunics you make for guys?  




For the T-shaped 18th c. shirt, I make a 6" gusset--That would probably be  
better for you, too, I imagine.  Also, such shirts have small neck  gussets--a 
4" or so square folded in half and sewn into the neck slit--to help  them fit 
comfortably around the neck and shoulders.  Probably totally  inauthentic for 
T tunics, but might help the comfort problem you are talking  about.
 
Ann Wass
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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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Well, I am making a bunch of undertunics for 16th cent, so i think i 
will stay away from neck gussets, but i am not sure i understand what 
you are mentioning.  Do you mean in the front of the garment?

j schueller

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> 
>  Also, such shirts have small neck  gussets--a 
>4" or so square folded in half and sewn into the neck slit--to help  them fit 
>comfortably around the neck and shoulders.  Probably totally  inauthentic for 
>T tunics, but might help the comfort problem you are talking  about.
> 
>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2005 21:12:20 +0000
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Do you mean triangles?  To me, gores typically mean a panel of triangular shape, which sometimes are made from  splitting rectangular panel diagonally. The hem being 8" and narrowing to 1 1/2" *wide* at the point?  Meaning you end with a 'flat' point, to allow for the seam allowance at the point.

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> In a message dated 6/5/2005 4:10:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
> jaurbik@optonline.net writes: 
> 
> I 
> currently have the gores being square of about 8 inchs, which seems too 
> big. How big are the gores on the tunics you make for guys? 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the T-shaped 18th c. shirt, I make a 6" gusset--That would probably be 
> better for you, too, I imagine. Also, such shirts have small neck gussets--a 
> 4" or so square folded in half and sewn into the neck slit--to help them fit 
> comfortably around the neck and shoulders. Probably totally inauthentic for 
> T tunics, but might help the comfort problem you are talking about. 
> 
> Ann Wass 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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In a message dated 6/5/2005 5:09:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jaurbik@optonline.net writes:

Do you  mean in the front of the garment?




No, they are inserted at the ends of the neck slits--that face out to the  
shoulders.  The point is put into the end of the slit, with the wide part  of 
the gusset at the neck edge.  But it probably wouldn't work for a  tunic--on a 
shirt, the whole neckline is gathered/guaged onto the collar or  band.
 
Ann Wass
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote
<<Snip>>
>>
>> Well, what would an Elizabethan man have kept in his pockets?
>
>The list you give below sounds about right for a wealthy man.
>
>> Let's face
>> it he didn't have even half of what we schlep around on a regular basis.
>
>That's true, but beside the point.  We don't need to presume that any 16th c
>gentleman would have as many pockets in his slops as a modern man might have
>in his jeans or even his suit trousers.  Moreover, depending on cut and
>fabric even a small number of contents could "spoil the line."  That's one
>reason modern tailors frown when a customer actually uses the pockets in his
>suit jacket, for example.
>
>
>> He might have had the apparently requisite handkerchief, maybe a small
>> pouch of coins.....
>
>Which might have been quite heavy--remember, period coinage had a higher
>precious metal content than anything in use today.
>
>
I don't know about 16th century, but medieval coins were very much 
thinner than today - remember you could quite easily cut them in 
quarters (farthings) or snip bits off them.  They didn't need to last 
through millions of transactions (and vending machines, and the washing 
machine, etc).  A pouch of gold sovereigns would be heavy, but enough 
for a day's expenses wouldn't be.

>> maybe not if he wasn't planning on buying
>> anything....A comb? A rosary or other devotional item?
>
> Whether an unsightly bulge would result from carrying items in a pocket would
>depend more on the bulk and weight of the items relative to the size of the
>pocket, and where the pocket hung in relation to the outermost surface of the
>garment, not from how much could be stuffed in the pocket in absolute terms.
>
>
>> There would not be
>> a wad of credit cards, car keys, cell phone, checkbook, make-up bag,
>> house keys, wallet full of paper money, novel to read at lunch,
>> hairbrush..... and that's just some of the stuff I carry in my purse!
>
>I don't carry a purse myself (gave it up decades ago except on the rare
>occasions when I'm wearing a skirt in public), and on average men carry many
>fewer items in their pockets than women carry either in pockets or purses.
>

I wonder what future people will think early 21st century fashionable 
women carried - no pockets and those ridiculously tiny handbags.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Genie Barrett <maggie.gene@justinanimator.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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At 03:11 PM 6/5/2005, you wrote:

>hello all, here is another of my simplestic questions.
>
>In making a t-tunic  with the underarm gores, how big should the gores be?

What I do, is put it on him before I sew the sides.  Then, I see how much 
gappage there is, and how much room he wants and add seam allowance.  It's 
always better to fit to him after all, than try some preset pattern that 
may not fit him.

>Yes i know that this depends on the size of the guy(mine wears t-shirt 
>size XL-Tall), but I am not sure of the proportions.  I have the body and 
>the sleeves down ok, but i need to do work on the gores.  I currently have 
>the gores being square of about 8 inchs, which seems too big.   How big 
>are the gores on the tunics you make for guys?
>Also, My guy is complaing that the arm seem seems too far down on his 
>sholder-i think this is just a fearture of a t-tunic (if the sholders are 
>where he want then, then his belly would NOT fit!)

Another option, if he has a big belly is that you may not need the gussets 
at all.  Just put the thing on wrong side out, pin it closed, and flare for 
the belly.  The seam will still be way down on his arm, but you can take 
some of that discomfort out by tightening it up a little under the 
arm.  This adds to the ability to raise the arm.

What I mean is that you make a shape of how the gusset would be if it were 
there.

__________________
                l seam       l  Neck hole
  sleeve     l       Body
________ l
                 \   gusset shape
                 \     This is not to scale
                   l
                   l   top of belly
                  /
                   /   flare for belly
                  /


What this does is gives you enough fabric for the belly, and still allows 
room for the gusset (which really is necessary, though not as big as I used 
to think).  The comfort comes in the ability to raise the arm and bring the 
hands together in front of you without straining the fabric or having to 
lift the entire tunic up with the arms.

Good luck
Genie 

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Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 22:38:25 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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On a t-tunic you cut a round neck hole.  You can either do it quite 
tight to the collar size with a slit down the front to make the total 
opening large enough for his head (pre-12th century) or make it a wider 
circle overall.

Here is a recipe for neck holes that really works - Debbie Lough gave it 
to me, I think she got it from someone else.  Measure the size of hole 
you want and divide it by 5.  From the centre of the back piece, measure 
1 inch down and one-fifth of your measurement to each size, and draw 
your scoop to that (allow for hemming when you cut).  From the centre 
front, measure one-fifth down and one-fifth to either side, for a 
semi-circle.  If you want a non-round neck, use this plan to collar 
size, which will make it sit right, then draw outwards from there.  My 
neckholes always used to be weird and wobbly, now they never fail 
(thanks Debs!)

And yes, he will just have to put up with the shoulders to the size of 
his belly.  Maybe you can make it an incentive for him to slim??

Jean


AnnBWass@aol.com wrote
>
>In a message dated 6/5/2005 5:09:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>jaurbik@optonline.net writes:
>
>Do you  mean in the front of the garment?
>
>
>
>
>No, they are inserted at the ends of the neck slits--that face out to the
>shoulders.  The point is put into the end of the slit, with the wide part  of
>the gusset at the neck edge.  But it probably wouldn't work for a  tunic--on a
>shirt, the whole neckline is gathered/guaged onto the collar or  band.
>
>Ann Wass
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Greetings everyone,

     This term I did an Independent Study course with one of most 
favorite instructors.  Mary teaches Basic Design.  Anyway, as I was 
coming up with some designs and looking at the history of fabric 
printing and seeing some great periods in designs.  How feasible is it 
for someone to design fabrics that would have been used as far back as 
the 14th or 15th centuries and althrough the Victorian era?

To many ideas and not enough time in a lifetime,
Roscelin



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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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Trust me, already have that covered!!  actually, he has lost 16 pounds 
in the last 6 months, so he is on the right direction.  Just he (and not 
me :( ) is going to pennsic and going though old garb, he only has 1 
pair of pants and no shirts that fit him comfertablely.  But since it 
was all made for him by ex-girlfrend(10 years +), i have no problem 
makeing stuff for him.  In fact, they only reason that stuff is not 
already made for him is that he is VERY picky.  He can't stand tight or 
heavy things.  And gives me no feedback inito what style he wants.  So I 
figure since I KNOW what I want, Ii spend most of my time making me stuff. 

Jean Waddie wrote:

>
> And yes, he will just have to put up with the shoulders to the size of 
> his belly.  Maybe you can make it an incentive for him to slim??



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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On Sunday 05 June 2005 5:38 pm, Jean Waddie wrote:
[snip]
> Here is a recipe for neck holes that really works - Debbie Lough gave it
> to me, I think she got it from someone else.  Measure the size of hole
> you want and divide it by 5. 

Do you mean "the diameter of the hole you want"?
 
> From the centre of the back piece, measure 
> 1 inch down and one-fifth of your measurement to each size, and draw
> your scoop to that (allow for hemming when you cut). 

The measurement that you're taking the fifth of is the "size of hole you want" 
measure from the first part, right?


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
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>Yeah, it's true. Corsets hold one into a rigidly upright posture - it's
impossible to slouch, or to tie one's own shoelaces in a properly worn
corset (All those people who CAN tie their shoelaces, well... how's your
job in Cirque du Soleil going?).<

You just have to pull your leg up sideways - as if you're going to sit
cross-legged. I'm far from thin and I wear my corset fairly tight. But then,
as a child I could hook my feet behind my neck.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 22:25:12 -0400
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>
> In a message dated 6/5/2005 5:09:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> jaurbik@optonline.net writes:
>
> Do you  mean in the front of the garment?
>
> No, they are inserted at the ends of the neck slits--that face out to the
> shoulders.  The point is put into the end of the slit, with the wide part 
> of
> the gusset at the neck edge.  But it probably wouldn't work for a 
> tunic--on a
> shirt, the whole neckline is gathered/guaged onto the collar or  band.
>
> Ann Wass

Yes, but you usually make *neck slits* in those kinds of chemises, while a 
typical T-tunic has... well... any kind of opening you like. I make mine 
round with a front slit. 
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 22:30:52 -0400
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> In making a t-tunic  with the underarm gores, how big should the gores be?

It also depends on the width of the sleeve. If the sleeve is very wide, you 
don't need gussets at all. If they're fairly tight, you want some kind of 
gusset. I think 8" is a little too big even for a XL size.  I make mine 4" 
(of course, I'm tiny) but you would probably be happier with something like 
a 6" gusset.

> Also, My guy is complaing that the arm seem seems too far down on his 
> sholder-i think this is just a fearture of a t-tunic (if the sholders are 
> where he want then, then his belly would NOT fit!)

That's all right. It's like a T-shirt... except that the T-shirt stretches 
so it can be much tighter. The shoulder seam will go down on the arm on a 
T-tunic. If he wants it higher on the shoulder, he needs to get you to make 
him later styles :-)

Good luck! 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
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LOL! I used to be able to do that when I was young, too, and could also 
slip on my shoes after getting corseted.  *That,* alas, was pre-knee 
surgeries.  *sigh*  When the surgeon replaced my ACL, he tightened up 
things, so I'm no longer nearly as flexible as I used to be, which is 
supposed to be good from a medical standpoint (less flex, less chance of 
damaging them again), but which I find annoying when I run into 
something I can no longer do (shoe laces, lotus position, etc).
--sue

Beth Chamberlain wrote:

>>Yeah, it's true. Corsets hold one into a rigidly upright posture - it's
> 
> impossible to slouch, or to tie one's own shoelaces in a properly worn
> corset (All those people who CAN tie their shoelaces, well... how's your
> job in Cirque du Soleil going?).<
> 
> You just have to pull your leg up sideways - as if you're going to sit
> cross-legged. I'm far from thin and I wear my corset fairly tight. But then,
> as a child I could hook my feet behind my neck.


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 21:05:25 -0700
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I rinse my hair two or three times a week.  I did it twice a day at Pennsic
because I was HOT and sweaty.  I figured that all parts of my skin including
the scalp got that way.  However the only time I use anything else is when
I'm coloring it (if God meant me to go grey he wouldn't have invented
Revlon!).  They it does the "hair like silk" stuff and I can't do anything
with it.  It won't stay up, it gets into my face, and it's just miserable to
deal with.

It's about mid back length now and very shiny and healthy.

When a friend decided to try the rinse with water only and the oiliness
began to drive her nuts we decided to try brushing it gently every night and
morning 50 strokes (you need to be gentle because oily or wet hair will
break) and then keeping her hair up in braids or a bun.  The brushing (with
a brush washed after every use with hot water) got the scruff that was
causing the itching off her scalp and a hot towel at night, or simply the
hot water rinse took care of the rest of it.  After about 2 weeks she could
just brush it and leave it down during the day.  The oiliness had
dissipated.  Better yet, as the weeks went by, the dandruff problem she had
since she was 16 also went away.  I think it was flakes of dry skin from the
shampooing rather than anything organic wrong with her.

I've been doing this for the last 3 years and she for about 2.  Neither of
us are going back to the chemical stuff.  Saves an amazing amount of hot
water and time at events!  Not to mention money for shampoos and then
conditioners to put back the stuff you just washed out :-)

Regina
(your mileage may vary depending on scalp conditions)
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair
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> I've been doing this for the last 3 years and she for about 2.  Neither of
> us are going back to the chemical stuff.  Saves an amazing amount of hot
> water and time at events!  Not to mention money for shampoos and then
> conditioners to put back the stuff you just washed out :-)
>
> Regina
> (your mileage may vary depending on scalp conditions)

You know it works for skin too. I rarely use soap when I shower - basically, 
I use a tiny amount on my armpits and uh... other likely-to-smell areas, 
mostly to get rid of odour, but that's it. If I don't shower on a certain 
day for whatever reason, I'll wash my face with warm water. I know they say 
that living in a city and all, the skin accumulates dirt and pollution, but 
I've had much nicer skin since I stopped using soap... Of course, I'll wash 
my hands carefully with soap whenever needed - I don't want to think how 
disgusting some of the things they touch during a day must be!

I'm wondering if we've just become intolerant to body smells, or if the fact 
that we shower so much and use so many chemicals makes us smell worse when 
we try to stop using them. Or might it just be something as simple as the 
fact that until recently, people had been wearing linen and cotton 
underwear? Or that we show more skin so the odour can... hmm... get out more 
easily?

I know that for a time, some people refused to bathe (I'm thinking 
Renaissance, but I might be off). Not that they didn't clean themselves: 
they scraped and rubbed the grit out of their skins, and changed body 
linens. I don't know if they were any more dirty than people who took the 
required "once a week, dirty or not" bath. We were talking about costuming 
myths, and that might be one of the most widely spread - that people didn't 
clean themselves in the Middle Ages and Renaissance, and that all their 
clothes were dirty. Hollywood might have something to do in perpetuating the 
myth... 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric design
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I think it would be highly unlikely a fabric design would remain popular over such a long span of time.  There aren't any fashion elements that carried through the period AS IS, and fabrics change to suit the fashion.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Rose Amberwulf<mailto:roscelin@pcez.com> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 5:49 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Fabric design


  Greetings everyone,

       This term I did an Independent Study course with one of most 
  favorite instructors.  Mary teaches Basic Design.  Anyway, as I was 
  coming up with some designs and looking at the history of fabric 
  printing and seeing some great periods in designs.  How feasible is it 
  for someone to design fabrics that would have been used as far back as 
  the 14th or 15th centuries and althrough the Victorian era?

  To many ideas and not enough time in a lifetime,
  Roscelin



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Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 13:33:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> hello all, here is another of my simplestic questions.
>
> In making a t-tunic  with the underarm gores, how big should the gores
> be? Yes i know that this depends on the size of the guy(mine wears
> t-shirt size XL-Tall), but I am not sure of the proportions.  I have the
> body and the sleeves down ok, but i need to do work on the gores.  I
> currently have the gores being square of about 8 inchs, which seems too
> big.   How big are the gores on the tunics you make for guys?

I would think that 8 inches is too big as you said.  Maybe try 6 inches
square.  You can also make them diamond shaped as well if that helps.  I
think the diagonal distance should be the width of his underarm when
raised.  Then you can play with how long the other diagonal should be
based on what will fit your fabric and cut.

> Also, My guy is complaing that the arm seem seems too far down on his
> sholder-i think this is just a fearture of a t-tunic (if the sholders
> are where he want then, then his belly would NOT fit!)

I think that you may be right here.  However, if you wanted to do a
modification of the t-tunic pattern, try cutting the arm opening as a
diagonal starting from where the shoulder would be to where the tunic will
be big enough for his chest and belly.  Like this:
                                 ______________________
              ----\   /----      \                     |
             /     \ /     \      \    sleeve          |
            /               \      \___________________|
            |       body    |
            |               |



Then put your gore under the sleeve like normal.  I am not sure if they
would have done the tunic with a diagonal seam like this but they were
also a lot skinnier in general than some of our men nowadays ;~>

Good luck!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2005 20:40:24 +0000
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Status: RO

The gusset under the arm is what (I think) should fix the issue of the sleeve shoulder seam complaint.  For my men's XL gusset, I use a 5" square (with 1/2" seam allowance included, when sewn they will become a 4" square).  Personally, I've found that if I use a true square, I get the full benefit of the 45 degree bias.  Using a diamond shape reduces the bias stretch; and once you get the square into the underarm seam, it will automatically 'look' like a diamond shape.  

That's my .02 worth....  

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> hello all, here is another of my simplestic questions. 
> 
> In making a t-tunic with the underarm gores, how big should the gores 
> be? Yes i know that this depends on the size of the guy(mine wears 
> t-shirt size XL-Tall), but I am not sure of the proportions. I have the 
> body and the sleeves down ok, but i need to do work on the gores. I 
> currently have the gores being square of about 8 inchs, which seems too 
> big. How big are the gores on the tunics you make for guys? 
> 
> Also, My guy is complaing that the arm seem seems too far down on his 
> sholder-i think this is just a fearture of a t-tunic (if the sholders 
> are where he want then, then his belly would NOT fit!) 
> 
> j schueller 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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-- J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net> wrote:
hello all, here is another of my simplestic questions.

In making a t-tunic  with the underarm gores, how big should the gores 
be? Yes i know that this depends on the size of the guy(mine wears 
t-shirt size XL-Tall), but I am not sure of the proportions.  I have the 
body and the sleeves down ok, but i need to do work on the gores.  I 
currently have the gores being square of about 8 inchs, which seems too 
big.   How big are the gores on the tunics you make for guys?

I take it you mean gussets? Seems pendantic, I know, but gores are vaguely triangular pieces that make hemlines bigger while gussets give expanding room between two seams.....want to be sure we are tlaking about the same thing. The gussets I make under my arms are about 4 inches on a side. I suppose for an extra-large sized guy you could go to 5 or 6 inches on a side, but I agree that 8 is just too much- they'd be hanging down like pouches when the guy's arms weren't raised!

 

Also, My guy is complaing that the arm seem seems too far down on his 
sholder-i think this is just a fearture of a t-tunic (if the sholders 
are where he want then, then his belly would NOT fit!)

Well, as far as I know, the shoulder seam on a t-tunic should fall about 1/3 of the way down the guy's upper arm. If it won't fit over his belly at that size tell him either to lose some weight (*snort*) or use a couple of those gores starting at about chest level and widening down to the hem. That should give him the extra tummy room he needs.




Karen
Seamstrix
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Subject: [h-cost] t-tunics for children
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Ok, so my sister-in-law just got me her kids measurements.  Basic a boy 
sized 8 and a girl sized 6.  I am going to make up a host of t-tunics 
for them also.  How big should I make the squares(or two triangles) that 
go under the arms? Unlike my husband, theses are two states away, so i 
can NOT put the tunics on them snd see what fits. 

thanks for all the good comments,
j schueller

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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J Schueller wrote on 6/5/2005 3:11 PM:

> hello all, here is another of my simplestic questions.
>
> In making a t-tunic with the underarm gores, how big should the gores 
> be? Yes i know that this depends on the size of the guy(mine wears 
> t-shirt size XL-Tall), but I am not sure of the proportions. I have 
> the body and the sleeves down ok, but i need to do work on the gores. 
> I currently have the gores being square of about 8 inchs, which seems 
> too big. How big are the gores on the tunics you make for guys?
> Also, My guy is complaing that the arm seem seems too far down on his 
> sholder-i think this is just a fearture of a t-tunic (if the sholders 
> are where he want then, then his belly would NOT fit!)
>
> j schueller
>
Are you talking about the underarm gussets instead of gores? Maggie 
Forest has a wonderful article in which she has an equation to figure it 
out, as well as how to figure out the other proportions at 
http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Tunics/TUNICS.HTML.

For underarm gussets (which always look too large to me) she suggests:

2 * [length of body panel (or shoulder to hem with allowance) - length 
of gores (or waist to hem with allowances)] / 3

If you were talking about gores, make them as wide as you want, although 
8" does not sound long enough (which is why I think you were talking 
about gussets).

Here's some approximate measurements from one of my husband's old comfy 
t-tunics (6'4" with a 48" waist, 2XLT) if you would like an idea:
Body panel - 30" by 46"
Sleeve panel - 19" by 20"
Gusset - 3" by 3"
Gore panel - 9" by 32" (cut in half diagonally, of course)
(all are width by length, add about 1" to each measurement for seam 
allowances)

Hmm...if I use the formula, he should have 9" gussets, but it looks and 
fits alright to me. I forget how I determined how large they must be. 
*hits head* It was probably a handout my local laurel did. I'll have to 
find it again and see what she recommended. Maybe that's why the 
t-tunics I recently made for my son seemed a bit odd, since I went back 
and used Maggie Forest's site for a refresher course. Then again I made 
it way too big for him anyways, so it's hard to tell.

Now as for the shoulders, this is something I've pondered over the past 
year but haven't found much time to work on the question. My husband and 
I are large people, so if we use the regular t-tunic pattern, we end up 
with shoulder points way down our arms too ( my husband measures is 18" 
from shoulder point to shoulder point, so on the tunic above, the 
shoulders are 6" down his arms!)

Has anyone seen any period depictions of people wearing tunics like 
this? I've looked through some of my favorite sources (Maciejowski 
Bible, Manesse Codex, etc) but either haven't seen any or the artist 
didn't bother with that detail. I haven't seen illustrations of larger 
people until the Renaissance.

Has anyone tried to work with the basic t-tunic pattern to solve this 
problem? I've thought that maybe making the body panel a trapezoid 
(narrower at the top) or just cutting a slant where the sleeves are 
attached might work. I haven't had time to sketch it all out and then do 
a mockup though. Do any of you have thoughts on this? Not period 
construction, but a fix to achieve period appearance, I guess.

-- 
Elinor Salter

"Re-enactor Resource Center" … now does that sound more impressive than fabric stash"?

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric design
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>How feasible is it for someone to design fabrics that would have been used 
>as far back as the 14th or 15th centuries and althrough the Victorian era?

I do know that quilters are always looking for fabrics from the late 1700s 
thru the early 20th Century.  I should think re-enactors would also be 
looking for these.  These repro-fabrics are sold today, especially in the 
high-end quilt specialty shops, so there has to be some kind of market for 
them, if only to quilters.  What I don't know about is actual feasibility, 
nor how to break into that market.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 11:34:42 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric design
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At 06:22 06/06/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>I think it would be highly unlikely a fabric design would remain popular 
>over such a long span of time.  There aren't any fashion elements that 
>carried through the period AS IS, and fabrics change to suit the fashion.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Rose Amberwulf<mailto:roscelin@pcez.com>
>   To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>
>   Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 5:49 PM
>   Subject: [h-cost] Fabric design
>
>
>   Greetings everyone,
>
>        This term I did an Independent Study course with one of most
>   favorite instructors.  Mary teaches Basic Design.  Anyway, as I was
>   coming up with some designs and looking at the history of fabric
>   printing and seeing some great periods in designs.  How feasible is it
>   for someone to design fabrics that would have been used as far back as
>   the 14th or 15th centuries and althrough the Victorian era?
>
>   To many ideas and not enough time in a lifetime,
>   Roscelin


The Victorians were very keen on "Gothic" designs, tapestries and so on, 
and many of the Pugin designs used when the Houses of Parliament were 
rebuilt (19th century) are based particularly on the "pineapple" and 
"pomegranate" figures. These fabrics can still be purchased, mostly for 
Church vestments, at Whipples in Westminster, I think) and Perkins who do 
mail order. http://www.mperkins.com/  There is another source which I 
cannot recall right now.

Suzi
  


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> ...rebuilt (19th century) are based particularly on the "pineapple" and 
> "pomegranate" figures.

I seem to recall seeing vase/urn-based designs quite a lot over most of the 
period in question, too; at least as far back as the early 16th century, and 
for almost everything in between except possibly the early 19th century.

-E House


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Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 12:42:57 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair
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At 01:22 06/06/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>>I've been doing this for the last 3 years and she for about 2.  Neither of
>>us are going back to the chemical stuff.  Saves an amazing amount of hot
>>water and time at events!  Not to mention money for shampoos and then
>>conditioners to put back the stuff you just washed out :-)
>>
>>Regina
>>(your mileage may vary depending on scalp conditions)
>
><snip>You know it works for skin too. I rarely use soap when I shower - 
>basically, I use a tiny amount on my armpits and uh... other 
>likely-to-smell areas, mostly to get rid of odour, but that's it. If I 
>don't shower on a certain day for whatever reason, I'll wash my face with 
>warm water. I know they say that living in a city and all, the skin 
>accumulates dirt and pollution, but I've had much nicer skin since I 
>stopped using soap... Of course, I'll wash my hands carefully with soap 
>whenever needed - I don't want to think how disgusting some of the things 
>they touch during a day must be! <snip>

I haven't deliberately washed my face since I was 18, and discovered that 
soap was what was giving me spots. I carefully cleanse tone and moisturise 
like it says on the label, and my skin is far better than some of my 
contemporaries who use soap and water. (I'm 62 by the way). London water is 
very hard, so I strip wash rather than shower for the same reason - it just 
takes off layers of skin no matter what I have tried. However, it is good 
for your arteries, so I just drink lots. I'm also of the "once a week" 
brigade re washing my hair - used to be waistlength , heavy and thick, and 
took hours and hours to dry, so learned that one ages ago. Also it used to 
be dry and fluffy - now is normal!

Suzi


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] silk chenille stumpwork
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Hi,
Not to change topics, but i would like to share that i have made progress 
with the stumpwork dress in silk chenille thread.
Each overskirt panels have 7 bouquets and then 3 on the underskirt.
I plan to make the sleave ruffles with small bouquets also.

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm


Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Bjarne's stump work embroidery
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Bjarne, that is so pretty. You are very skilled and I congratulate you. It 
must have taken, and will take, hours.

I would like to ask you a question about stump work. I recently went to a 
study day on 17th costume and accessories, and we got to see an exquisite 
stump work box from the later part of the 17th century - 1665-70. The 
conservator told us that stump work was only found in England between 1620 
and 1680, and nowhere else. Do you have evidence that contradicts this? I 
would be most interested to know, so I could go back and argue with her. I 
love arguing with experts!

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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If it helps this discussion any, the portrait of Nicholas Throckmorton
can be see here:
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Throckmorton,Nicholas(Sir).jpg
On my monitor, I can clearly see the bag the kerchief is in.
Margaret


		
__________________________________ 
Discover Yahoo! 
Find restaurants, movies, travel and more fun for the weekend. Check it out! 
http://discover.yahoo.com/weekend.html 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarne's stump work embroidery
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Hi Suzi,
First, stumpwork can be many things, but your expert perhaps only calculate 
work with wire as real stumpwork.
There are jackets from Elizabethan time wich has 3 dimensional embroidery 
made with needle weaving this i also call stumpwork, but as i am no expert 
in this, i wont dare to say so. In my memory there is stumpwork in Denmark 
two, i have seen boxes in the museum of decoratif art, but it could be that 
it has english origin, even it is in a museum in Denmark.
As for 18th century there is a closeup photo in the Revolution of fashion 
book with a stomacher. And the flowers looks like stumpwork flowers to me. 
They at least are 3 dimensional flowers cut out and mounted on the 
stomacher.
I wished that the revolution book had closeup photos of the chenille 
ornament flowers wich shows on the dress i make after, and the neckband has 
a bunch of flowers made of chenille threads.
But it also could be that those flowers just are artificially made flowers 
made in chenille thread.
However it is true that the highliht of stumpwork is 17th century.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 3:00 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Bjarne's stump work embroidery


>
> Bjarne, that is so pretty. You are very skilled and I congratulate you. It 
> must have taken, and will take, hours.
>
> I would like to ask you a question about stump work. I recently went to a 
> study day on 17th costume and accessories, and we got to see an exquisite 
> stump work box from the later part of the 17th century - 1665-70. The 
> conservator told us that stump work was only found in England between 1620 
> and 1680, and nowhere else. Do you have evidence that contradicts this? I 
> would be most interested to know, so I could go back and argue with her. I 
> love arguing with experts!
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair, was costuming myths
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I use mostly rosemary, <snip>

--Robin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thanks!  I have rosemary in the garden (actually survived the last to
Kansas winters) so I may give this a try.  And I vaguely remember when
this thread poped up before but appreciate everyone's additional input. 


Vacation is coming up so that is probably a good time to get through
the ugly stage :).

Catherine

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Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 06:46:36 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk chenille stumpwork
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It's always wonderful to see your work, Bjarne. Beautiful and awe
inspiring! 

Arlys

On Mon, 6 Jun 2005 14:14:11 +0200 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> Hi,
> Not to change topics, but i would like to share that i have made 
> progress 
> with the stumpwork dress in silk chenille thread.
> Each overskirt panels have 7 bouquets and then 3 on the underskirt.
> I plan to make the sleave ruffles with small bouquets also.
> 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
> 
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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I am not sure I really understand the question.  Are you asking if a 
design would remain popular for the entire period, or are you asking 
about the are you asking what the saleability of these items would be? 

Sg


>
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Subject: [h-cost] Bjarne's stump work embroidery-missed the link
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I missed the original link....could you resend? 


>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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> Has anyone tried to work with the basic t-tunic pattern to solve this 
> problem? I've thought that maybe making the body panel a trapezoid 
> (narrower at the top) or just cutting a slant where the sleeves are 
> attached might work. I haven't had time to sketch it all out and then do a 
> mockup though. Do any of you have thoughts on this? Not period 
> construction, but a fix to achieve period appearance, I guess.
>
> Elinor Salter

When I do early 13th C clothing, I start the side gores as high as 
possible - right at the garment armpit, when I can. That might help with 
your problem. It would give you a little extra width around the belly, but 
not so much around the shoulders. I guess you could do the same with front 
and back gores if you want, I usually put them in only at the sides, because 
I like the hang better that way. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk chenille stumpwork
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Darlin', you can change the subject any ol' time!  Your work is *always* exquiste and well worth the segue!

Once again wiping the drool off my keyboard...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Hi, 
> Not to change topics, but i would like to share that i have made progress 
> with the stumpwork dress in silk chenille thread. 
> Each overskirt panels have 7 bouquets and then 3 on the underskirt. 
> I plan to make the sleave ruffles with small bouquets also. 
> 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm 
> 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews 
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair
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>
> You know it works for skin too. I rarely use soap when I shower -
> basically,  I use a tiny amount on my armpits and uh... other
> likely-to-smell areas,  mostly to get rid of odour, but that's it. If I
> don't shower on a certain  day for whatever reason, I'll wash my face
> with warm water. I know they say  that living in a city and all, the
> skin accumulates dirt and pollution, but  I've had much nicer skin since
> I stopped using soap... Of course, I'll wash  my hands carefully with
> soap whenever needed - I don't want to think how  disgusting some of the
> things they touch during a day must be!

I'm the same way, it started with my face, since it is sensitive to oils
in face cleaners.

>
> I'm wondering if we've just become intolerant to body smells, or if the
> fact  that we shower so much and use so many chemicals makes us smell
> worse when  we try to stop using them. Or might it just be something as
> simple as the  fact that until recently, people had been wearing linen
> and cotton  underwear?

A little of both is my idea, plus our unnatural diet.
>


 that
> people didn't  clean themselves in the Middle Ages and Renaissance, and
> that all their  clothes were dirty. Hollywood might have something to do
> in perpetuating the  myth...

On another victorian list there was a link to an article done by a
reporter who was allowed to spend a couple days on the site of a "colonial
House" experiment they did recently in Australia.   He said the people
were so dirty and their clothing was so dirty that the directors had to
forbid him to trade clothing with the envious colonists even if they
begged him to.

In their case I assume the problem would have been lack of water, in the
case of the Dark age people, and others, it is said to have been a
religious reaction to what they percieved as the excessive bathing of the
"heathen" opressors, (the Moors, I believe)  sort of "the heathen bathe so
therefore it follows that dirt is next to godliness"

 The moors primarily occupied spain though, and the eastern part of europe
suffered under a different opressor at the time, (the Huns?)  so that
might be a myth or a partial myth for all I know.

Kitty


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarne's stump work embroidery
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At 15:21 06/06/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi Suzi,
>First, stumpwork can be many things, but your expert perhaps only 
>calculate work with wire as real stumpwork.

I do not know what work with wire is, but what she was showing certainly 
was what I have always thought of as stump work.

>There are jackets from Elizabethan time wich has 3 dimensional embroidery 
>made with needle weaving this i also call stumpwork, but as i am no expert 
>in this, i wont dare to say so.

This is normally done over a padding, or sating stitch base. I have been 
looking at embroidered jackets in museums recently, and am pretty sure that 
most raised embroidery is done like this.

>In my memory there is stumpwork in Denmark two, i have seen boxes in the 
>museum of decoratif art, but it could be that it has english origin, even 
>it is in a museum in Denmark.
>As for 18th century there is a closeup photo in the Revolution of fashion 
>book with a stomacher. And the flowers looks like stumpwork flowers to me. 
>They at least are 3 dimensional flowers cut out and mounted on the stomacher.

I agree they look like stumpwork, and I can certainly see chenille threads, 
but if I was reproducing these flowers, I would use plaited braid, as on my 
copy of the Kyoto book "Fashion" that is what I see. I would welcome any 
other opinions. I think the flowers are made up an a tiny circular base 
from rounds of braid.

>I wished that the revolution book had closeup photos of the chenille 
>ornament flowers wich shows on the dress i make after, and the neckband 
>has a bunch of flowers made of chenille threads.
>But it also could be that those flowers just are artificially made flowers 
>made in chenille thread.
>However it is true that the highliht of stumpwork is 17th century.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Please Help Date A Corset
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Dear List Members,

a friend of mine - another lacemaker - has agreed that I can pass on her
message to you all, in the hope that someone may be able to cast light on
her new purchase.  We are both very grateful for any attention that you may
be willing to spare, and I will pass on to her all suggestions.

Yours sincerely,
Linda Walton,
(High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).

Here are the details:-

. . .  While I was away this weekend I bought from a junk stall a delightful
pink satin "corset".  I don't know a lot about underwear and wonder if there
is anyone that could give me some ideas about date.

It is waist length (10" from the highest arch of the bust shape), the front
boned top to bottom.  There is a 2" wide elasticated panel in the centre
back
and two small elastic gussets at the lower back edge.  It does up down the
centre front with silver colour hooks and eyes.  The elastic panel edges are
turned over top and bottom with a 1/4" hem and it is finished with a form of
multiple thread machine stitch.  The rest of the stitching is straight
stitch.  There is no evidence of there ever having been a label inside the
garment.

The lace content is at the front over the bust, where the top shape curves
(between 2" and 3" deep), there is a double layer of hexagonal machine net
with three twists on the main zig-zag horizontal line and one twist on the
vertical connecting bars.  The outer layer of net is decorated with a
coached design.  I believe that this is hand done as the coaching stitches
appear to be a single thread, are not related to the net, are long on the
back (as far as I can see through the other layer) and each repeat is subtly
different in shape and size.

It is in a box (which may, of course, not belong to it) with a large picture
of a double ended axe with and the words "The Double Axe Brand Corsetry" and
Trademark written along and under the picture.  Beneath is the description
"The Corsets that have Stood the Test of Time"  On the end of the box it
repeats the trademark picture with its wording, then "Double Axe Company"
again in big letters (in case you missed it).  The quality is marked as SB2,
colour Tea-Rose and size 7.

All in all, it is delightful but I would like to know a little bit more
about
it and the sort of clothes it would have been worn under.

Many thanks,
Jacquie.
-

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarne's stump work embroidery
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 19:54:53 +0200
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Hi Suzi,
The books i have learned stumpwork from, shows you how to outline your 
stumpwork projekts with milliners wire. You outline the motif with wire and 
buttonhole stitch it close together all the way round the wire. Then you sew 
the motif with the stitches you want to use, and finally cut out the motif.
You can pad it and shape it to get the right look.
This is how i do my stumpwork, but i am not aware if this is a new method or 
the original 17th century way to do it.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarne's stump work embroidery


> At 15:21 06/06/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>>Hi Suzi,
>>First, stumpwork can be many things, but your expert perhaps only 
>>calculate work with wire as real stumpwork.
>
> I do not know what work with wire is, but what she was showing certainly 
> was what I have always thought of as stump work.
>
>>There are jackets from Elizabethan time wich has 3 dimensional embroidery 
>>made with needle weaving this i also call stumpwork, but as i am no expert 
>>in this, i wont dare to say so.
>
> This is normally done over a padding, or sating stitch base. I have been 
> looking at embroidered jackets in museums recently, and am pretty sure 
> that most raised embroidery is done like this.
>
>>In my memory there is stumpwork in Denmark two, i have seen boxes in the 
>>museum of decoratif art, but it could be that it has english origin, even 
>>it is in a museum in Denmark.
>>As for 18th century there is a closeup photo in the Revolution of fashion 
>>book with a stomacher. And the flowers looks like stumpwork flowers to me. 
>>They at least are 3 dimensional flowers cut out and mounted on the 
>>stomacher.
>
> I agree they look like stumpwork, and I can certainly see chenille 
> threads, but if I was reproducing these flowers, I would use plaited 
> braid, as on my copy of the Kyoto book "Fashion" that is what I see. I 
> would welcome any other opinions. I think the flowers are made up an a 
> tiny circular base from rounds of braid.
>
>>I wished that the revolution book had closeup photos of the chenille 
>>ornament flowers wich shows on the dress i make after, and the neckband 
>>has a bunch of flowers made of chenille threads.
>>But it also could be that those flowers just are artificially made flowers 
>>made in chenille thread.
>>However it is true that the highliht of stumpwork is 17th century.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
I dont know if any of you remember a coupple of years back, i was telling 
you about an unfinished embroidered dress i examined, wich was said to have 
ben ment to be presented to Marie Antoinette?
There were some small "rings" or strings of embroidered pearls wich i could 
not figure out how was done.
Some time ago, i found out how it was done. I was embroidering bullion 
roses, and bullion stitches were new to me. Then suddently i realised that 
these rings, was made with only 1 long bullion stitch starting and ending 
the same place and shaped in a cirkle.
Boy am i glad i found that out!!!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Men's peasant costume
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I've finally gotten my new Bruegel book into the same room with a scanner, so I've uploaded the painting I was talking about to my Epson photoalbum here: 
 
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4293000&a=31783828&f=
 
I misremembered the title; it's actually called "The Corn Harvesters." The one guy has his back to the "camera" and you can clearly see the seamlines on his hose. I have another example in the same book which I will put up soon so you can see it. I'm sure you all know how to make them like this already, but I hadn't realized before that there is no seam on the front or sides of their hose. The pattern it takes to make this is very different from modern pants, but I think it would be easier to fit.
 
I know the recent discussion about men's necklines was in reference to early-period t-tunics, but as you can see, in Flanders in 1565, there is no slit or collar and the neck opening is clearly large enough for the head to pass through. The guy on the left looks like he could probably get his hat through the neck opening too, if he wanted to. 
 
I'm also uploading a sketch by Bruegel that shows the front of a peasant man's hose. Bruegel is very consistent in the number and placement of the points in all of his paintings. Most peasants apparently let the points at the waist dangle, but I do have one painting that shows a man with his jerkin tied to his hoseby means of these points. What I found interesting was that the points are invariably tipped with metal aiglettes. I suppose I thought peasants would be too poor to have so many metal bits on their costumes, but aiglettes, lacing rings and buckles seem to be commonplace.
 
I apologize if these observations seem very old-news to the rest of you, but I'm new at this. :)
 
Tea Rose
 
 
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From: pixel <goddessandqueen@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ladies carrying knives
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I have a photo of what might be a knife hanging at a woman's belt.
It's on a statue on the west front of Wells Cathedral, but I haven't
been through the sculpture program to figure out who she is. She's got
a pouch and then there's this *thing* behind it that unfortunately is
a little hard to see because she's about thirty feet up and we were on
the ground. But it's long and narrow, and it could be a knife or it
could be a pen case.

Margaret/Pixel

On 6/3/05, Rose Amberwulf <roscelin@pcez.com> wrote:
>   In my search about women in the late 13th through the 14th centuries,
> I can find any info about women carrying any form of knife/dagger.  Do
> any of you know if women ever did carry any form of a blade?  If I
> understand correctly they carried a pouch and possibly a rosary (which I
> am having problems finding what one actually looked like even looking at
> pictures).
>    Thanks for any help.  And by the way, it looks like I finally get to
> start to work on stuffed toy horse next week.  A doll maker friend is
> going to sit down with me and help me make my first ever doll/animal.
> I'll take some pictures as soon as it is done.  I guess that leads to
> another question.  When taking pictures of projects; is it best to make
> a photo journal of the steps I take in any of my projects?
> 
> Roscelin
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery mystery
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Hi Bjarne,
 
As always, your work is SUCH an inspiration.  When do you sleep ? :)
 
Question on this, could you see if it was tacked down?
 
Thanks!
 
Chris G.

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
Hi,
I dont know if any of you remember a coupple of years back, i was telling 
you about an unfinished embroidered dress i examined, wich was said to have 
ben ment to be presented to Marie Antoinette?
There were some small "rings" or strings of embroidered pearls wich i could 
not figure out how was done.
Some time ago, i found out how it was done. I was embroidering bullion 
roses, and bullion stitches were new to me. Then suddently i realised that 
these rings, was made with only 1 long bullion stitch starting and ending 
the same place and shaped in a cirkle.
Boy am i glad i found that out!!!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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>I'm also uploading a sketch by Bruegel that shows the front of a peasant 
>man's hose. Bruegel is very consistent in the number and placement of the 
>points in all of his paintings.

I looked at the placement of the points on the guy in the sketch who is 
facing us, and I looked at the jeans I'm wearing, and the points are just 
about where my belt loops are.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Please Help Date A Corset
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 11:54:48 -0400
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Without a picture, it'll be hard to identify it. But elastic at least tells 
me that it's fairly recent.

Double Axe Brand Corsetry only turns up this page
http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/object.php?irn=14909&themeback=3&CostumeTheme=Underwear
That one is dated 1900-1910, and we learn that Double Axe is a British 
company.

Sorry I can't be more help... 
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Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 13:12:50 -0700
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ISO millinary buckram/ stiffener??
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Sometimes crinoline was used instead of buckram; sometimes it's easier
to find. Is the piece wired? If so, you could use some satin or
iron-on interfacing or anything else since this piece is protecting
the stitches and not suppporting the shape. If you really need the
buckram to keep the shape that's a bit different. I only have the very
heavy buckram and black crinoline in my stash. I could send you some
of the heavy but it might be TOO heavy. Contact me off list. You may
need the regular weight buckram, which I don't have. Maybe someone
else can help you?

And sometimes you can restiffen the buckram. Let me know if you want
some instruction on that - very simple to do, tiresome for others to
read.

Are you the bride?

LynnD

On 6/3/05, purplkat@optonline.net <purplkat@optonline.net> wrote:
> I am trying to re-furbish my mother's wedding headpiece/ crown.
> 
> However it has been ravaged by 42 years of neglect. It is in amazingly good condition - however the stiffener (buckram?) has gone and it needs to be replaced.
> 
> This is the item that is on the 'back' of the headpiece, that protects the beadwork stitching from damage.
> 
> All I need is a piece 3 1/2" wide by 16" long (I've included 'fudge factor' ) I carefully detached the old piece and can use it as a template for the new one.
> 
> The old piece seemed to have a sorta slipery/ satin-y side out and a webbing/ fiberous type stuff against the stiching. It also appears to be glued (pasted) on.
> 
> My local fabric stores don't carry anything like this, the only thing closest is either iron-on fusing or heavy duck/ canvas.
> 
> Can anyone help me here?
> The wedding is July 10th and I would like to get all of the sewing done by the end of June.
> 
> Thanks
> Katheryne
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
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I have a nice 'gague' to see if a corset will work for all the moving I do in a day.

I put the prototype on (wiht boning) and sit down at the sewing machine. If I can sew for over an hour - with all stretching, moving, twisting, etc needed - and I am STILL comfortable it is a good fit. *
Otherwise I mark the problem area(s), fix, and go back to sewing. 

When the final version is done, I not only can tie my own shoes, I can sit at my spinning wheel for hours, and even bend and pick up stuff from the ground without problems.

Katheryne

* my sewing machine sits on a low coffee table, and the seat for the machine is a child's stool. So I have to do a lot of twisting and reaching for all the material, thread, etc.

----- Original Message -----
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> LOL! I used to be able to do that when I was young, too, and could 
> also slip on my shoes after getting corseted.  *That,* alas, was pre-
> knee surgeries.  *sigh*   --sue
> 
> Beth Chamberlain wrote:
> >>Yeah, it's true. Corsets hold one into a rigidly upright posture 
> - it's impossible to slouch, or to tie one's own shoelaces in a 
> properly worn corset (All those people who CAN tie their shoelaces, well... 
> how's your job in Cirque du Soleil going?).<

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Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 21:55:36 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote
>On Sunday 05 June 2005 5:38 pm, Jean Waddie wrote:
>[snip]
>> Here is a recipe for neck holes that really works - Debbie Lough gave it
>> to me, I think she got it from someone else.  Measure the size of hole
>> you want and divide it by 5.
>
>Do you mean "the diameter of the hole you want"?
>
Sorry, I should have been clearer, it's the circumference.  Collar 
measurement, basically.

>> From the centre of the back piece, measure
>> 1 inch down and one-fifth of your measurement to each size, and draw
>> your scoop to that (allow for hemming when you cut).
>
>The measurement that you're taking the fifth of is the "size of hole you want"
>measure from the first part, right?
>
Yes.
>

-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> wrote
>> Has anyone tried to work with the basic t-tunic pattern to solve this 
>>problem? I've thought that maybe making the body panel a trapezoid 
>>(narrower at the top) or just cutting a slant where the sleeves are 
>>attached might work. I haven't had time to sketch it all out and then 
>>mockup though. Do any of you have thoughts on this? Not period 
>>construction, but a fix to achieve period appearance, I guess.
>>
>> Elinor Salter
>
>When I do early 13th C clothing, I start the side gores as high as 
>possible - right at the garment armpit, when I can. That might help 
>with your problem. It would give you a little extra width around the 
>belly, but not so much around the shoulders. I guess you could do the 
>same with front and back gores if you want, I usually put them in only 
>at the sides, because I like the hang better that way. 
>_______________________________________________

It would be very obvious if you put in a front or back gore high enough 
to give extra width over the belly.  At the side wouldn't show so much 
that it was for that purpose, just looks like a standard layout.

Jean
-- 
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Audrey wrote:
>I know that for a time, some people refused to bathe (I'm thinking 
>Renaissance, but I might be off). Not that they didn't clean themselves: 
>they scraped and rubbed the grit out of their skins, and changed body 
>linens. 

Or took sponge baths -- IIRC, what was thought to be most unhealthy was immersing the entire body in a tub of water. A sponge bath can get you quite clean and is more economical of hot water as well. (The only place where it really doesn't work is for washing a full head of hair -- that pretty much does require pouring or immersing or something.)

>I don't know if they were any more dirty than people who took the 
>required "once a week, dirty or not" bath. We were talking about costuming 
>myths, and that might be one of the most widely spread - that people didn't 
>clean themselves in the Middle Ages and Renaissance, and that all their 
>clothes were dirty. Hollywood might have something to do in perpetuating the 
>myth... 

I had occasion a couple of years ago to buy and read a historical novel that was getting rave reviews from non-historians for its portrayal of "everyday life." I will admit that I didn't like the heroine much, but neither she nor anyone else in the book _ever_ washed, either themselves or their clothing, not even when, shall we say, unpleasant bodily discharges were involved. There is one scene where she actually <gasp!> removes all her clothes and takes a dip in a local pond, but it's presented as something she does because she is a dreamy, poetic sort of person who loves nature (unlike everyone else in the Middle Ages of course ;) rather than out of any thought of actual cleanliness.

The book was interesting in an intellectual sort of way, though I had to read it more than once before I could figure out just why it struck me as peculiar. I finally figured out that it read like it had been written with a checklist in hand: one ignorant priest, check. One person who dies of an infected wound that could have been cured with penicillin, check. One arranged marriage, check. One person who actually gets out of the village and goes to a "foreign country" a whole mile away, check. And so forth. I think there was a village idiot in there, too :)

I also noticed that the author had fallen for the idea that linen in the Middle Ages in England was rare and expensive, so she made everyone have underclothes (if any) made of wool. Made me itch just thinking of it :)

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
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> It would be very obvious if you put in a front or back gore high enough to 
> give extra width over the belly.  At the side wouldn't show so much that 
> it was for that purpose, just looks like a standard layout.

You're right! What I was picturing in my mind is starting the point at the 
bottom of the front slit, so it wouldn't be that obvious (I do a front slit, 
so that's the image I was going with). But you're right, it would probably 
look weird if there was a front gore starting right in the middle of the 
chest! 
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Subject: Itchy wool was: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair
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> I also noticed that the author had fallen for the idea that linen in the 
> Middle Ages in England was rare and expensive, so she made everyone have 
> underclothes (if any) made of wool. Made me itch just thinking of it :)

I know wool itches. I know many people are allergic to it. And I probably 
wouldn't want to wear wool for hours directly on some delicate areas but... 
Am I the only one who enjoys the itchy feeling of wool? I actually love 
cuddling in an itchy wool blanket or sweater. As if the fact that it itches 
made my brain think it's warmer? 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: Itchy wool was: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair
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>>I also noticed that the author had fallen for the idea that linen in the 
>>Middle Ages in England was rare and expensive, so she made everyone have 
>>underclothes (if any) made of wool. Made me itch just thinking of it :)
>
>I know wool itches. I know many people are allergic to it. And I probably 
>wouldn't want to wear wool for hours directly on some delicate areas 
>but... Am I the only one who enjoys the itchy feeling of wool? I actually 
>love cuddling in an itchy wool blanket or sweater. As if the fact that it 
>itches made my brain think it's warmer? 
>_______________________________________________

Only cheap wool itches.  Really expensive wool, or maybe lamb's wool, 
doesn't.  This is aside from any questions of allergies, of course, and 
mindful of the fact that cheap for wool is not cheap for, say, cotton.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adele de Maisieres" <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question


> Karen R Bergquist wrote:
>
> >To get the Elizabethan effect with satin you need to choose
> >something quite heavy, like the stuff they sell for lining coats, and
> >with a somewhat matte appearance. I know that sounds odd- matte satin,
> >but there is a spectrum of shininess and to look right in period you
> >should avoid the super shiny stuff and go for stuff with more of a
> >'glow'. and of course you need to get the skirt looking full enough so
> >you have nice luxurious folds of softly shining satin....mmmmmmm.......I
> >think I feel a satin Elizabethan coming on.......
> >
>
> I think the "good stuff" is sold as Duchesse or delustred satin.  It's
> fairly heavyweight, and popular for wedding gowns and the like.
>
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres
>
However, there's really no point in buying that heavy weight polyester satin
when you can get cotton brocades and velveteen cheaper, and if you're lucky
you can get wool for the same price. This is based on prices available to me
from the two chain fabric stores locally (well technically there's 3 stores
but only 2 chains), if I order online I can sometimes get an even better
price. Buying silk satin in an appropriate weight is prohibitively expensive
(and I don't know about other countries but I've never seen it in person,
just online) but there are alternatives to polyester if you can't afford
silk.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: Re: Itchy wool was: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair
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yes, in the winter I do.   I have a lot of allergies, and I won't touch
anything but merino wool in the summer, but in the winter I Love wool.  it
is so cuddly.   Kitty


>> I also noticed that the author had fallen for the idea that linen in
>> the  Middle Ages in England was rare and expensive, so she made
>> everyone have  underclothes (if any) made of wool. Made me itch just
>> thinking of it :)
>
> I know wool itches. I know many people are allergic to it. And I
> probably  wouldn't want to wear wool for hours directly on some delicate
> areas but...  Am I the only one who enjoys the itchy feeling of wool? I
> actually love  cuddling in an itchy wool blanket or sweater. As if the
> fact that it itches  made my brain think it's warmer?
> _______________________________________________
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Greetings--

> Or took sponge baths -- IIRC, what was thought to be most unhealthy was 
> immersing the entire body in a tub of water. A sponge bath can get you 
> quite clean and is more economical of hot water as well. (The only place 
> where it really doesn't work is for washing a full head of hair -- that 
> pretty much does require pouring or immersing or something.)

The other misconception about "bathing" in the Middle Ages is the idea that 
the Church believed it to be sinful.  What the Church believed was sinful 
was public mixed bathing in bathhouses (you know, the kind where the 
Bohemian Bathhouse Babes were to be found :-).   It wasn't washing or 
cleansing--indeed, the Church has a very long history of viewing that kind 
of thing in very positive terms.

Susan 

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Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 13:43:10 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

>>I think the "good stuff" is sold as Duchesse or delustred satin.  It's
>>fairly heavyweight, and popular for wedding gowns and the like.
>>
>>    
>>
>However, there's really no point in buying that heavy weight polyester satin
>when you can get cotton brocades and velveteen cheaper, and if you're lucky
>you can get wool for the same price. 
>

Oh, heck, personally, I agree with you.  I think satin is rather 
overrated, and I can get equally nice and more durable things at better 
prices. With careful shopping, I can _definitely_ get woollens as 
cheaply as the grade of synthetic satin I would consider acceptable.  
Bit if you really, really want satin, the heavy, low sheen stuff is the 
stuff to buy.  But personally, I'd rather wear wool, cotton velvet, etc. 
Especially wool.


>This is based on prices available to me
>from the two chain fabric stores locally (well technically there's 3 stores
>but only 2 chains), if I order online I can sometimes get an even better
>price. Buying silk satin in an appropriate weight is prohibitively expensive
>(and I don't know about other countries but I've never seen it in person,
>just online) but there are alternatives to polyester if you can't afford
>silk.
>  
>

Incidentally, I think you can sometimes get heavy, low-sheen silk satin 
in the fancier sort of bridal fabric shop-- no idea what it costs, 
though, and the colour range is probably a bit limited.  I suppose 
another option would be high-quality cotton sateen.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for men
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 21:48:44 -0400
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On Monday 06 June 2005 4:55 pm, Jean Waddie wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote
>
> >On Sunday 05 June 2005 5:38 pm, Jean Waddie wrote:
> >[snip]
> >
> >> Here is a recipe for neck holes that really works - Debbie Lough gave it
> >> to me, I think she got it from someone else.  Measure the size of hole
> >> you want and divide it by 5.
> >
> >Do you mean "the diameter of the hole you want"?
>
> Sorry, I should have been clearer, it's the circumference.  Collar
> measurement, basically.

[snip]

Thanks!



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 22:13:56 -0400
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On Monday 06 June 2005 9:17 am, mlysett wrote:
> If it helps this discussion any, the portrait of Nicholas Throckmorton
> can be see here:
> http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Throckmorton,Nicholas(Sir).jpg
> On my monitor, I can clearly see the bag the kerchief is in.

On the other hand, I've found the same portrait in a different book, namely, 
Ribeiro and Cumming's "The Visual History of Costume," and the authors of 
that book report, in the caption to the Throckmorton portrait (No. 44 on page 
85) that "Although trunkhose and breeches were usually made with pockets for 
handkerchiefs and other accessories, Sir Nicholas has chosen to wear a 
separate purse to accommodate his carefully arranged handkerchief."

Now I wish I knew what the authors' source of information was for the claim 
that trunkhose "usually" had pockets....


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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In a message dated 6/6/2005 7:55:17 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

>I'm  also uploading a sketch by Bruegel that shows the front of a peasant  
>man's hose. Bruegel is very consistent in the number and placement of  the 
>points in all of his paintings.

I looked at the placement  of the points on the guy in the sketch who is 
facing us, and I looked at  the jeans I'm wearing, and the points are just 
about where my belt loops  are.


CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker,  fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com



That's a good point! But Bruegel shows lots of guys wearing belts -- nearly  
all of them, in fact -- and the points still dangle. I'll have to make a 
survey  and see if I can find any belts  attached to the points. 
 
Someone not on this list was looking at my scans and wondered how they held  
their hose up. Neither the belts nor the hose seem to constrict their bodies 
at  all. Would it have been made out of something stretchy enough that the ties 
at  the front would hold them on? Does anyone have first- or second-hand 
knowledge  of wearing hose like that, and if so, how did you keep them from 
falling  off?
 
Tea Rose
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Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 20:52:35 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for children
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At 6:45 PM -0400 6/5/05, J Schueller wrote:
>Ok, so my sister-in-law just got me her kids measurements.  Basic a 
>boy sized 8 and a girl sized 6.  I am going to make up a host of 
>t-tunics for them also.  How big should I make the squares(or two 
>triangles) that go under the arms? Unlike my husband, theses are two 
>states away, so i can NOT put the tunics on them snd see what fits.
>thanks for all the good comments,

In response to both this and the other t-tunic arm-gusset thread ...

Note that extremely few of the surviving medieval (and late 
classical) geometric-cut tunics have underarm gussets.  For example, 
all the vast myriad of surviving late classical Egyptian tunics have 
nothing resembling an underarm gusset.  For close-fitting garments, 
the usual solution is a slightly tapered sleeve, so that the shoulder 
area fits comfortably without having a wide wrist opening.  For 
loose-fitting garments, the sleeves may be wide for the entire 
length, or there may be a very strong taper to the sleeves.  Having a 
slightly shaped armscye -- even for an otherwise geometric-cut tunic 
-- is also found.  (The Herjolfsness garments with a triangular 
insert in the sleeve seem at the back, rather than the underarm, 
functionally falls in the "slight taper + shaped armscye" class.)

In general, underarm fitting problems happen when you have a 
loose-fitting garment (so that the sleeve attachment to the body is 
dropped down the shoulder somewhat), relatively tight sleeves (so 
that movement of the arm forces the garment to move), and a belted 
style (so that when the arm forces the garment to move, the belt 
stops it).

For a child, I'd lean towards making the garment more loose-fitting, 
with wide sleeves.  This solves the arm movement issue while 
simultaneously leaving some growing room.  There are several 
late-classical children's tunics from Egypt that are from the 
T-shaped stylistic tradition but are cut with a slight curve at the 
underarm (and a slight flare in the skirts), but I think this is more 
a function of being cut from a larger piece of cloth, as contrasted 
with the adult garments which were generally woven to shape and 
therefore had a sharp angle at the underarm.

I think that much of the impression of t-tunics as having underarm 
gussets (in addition to popular modern patterns that call for them) 
is bleed-over from Renaissance- and later-era shirts and chemises, 
which follow a somewhat different cutting tradition.

For reference: the 11th c. Danish shirt from Viborg has square 
underarm gussets; the Boksten tunic _may_ have underarm gussets of 
functionally triangular shape, but they may have been placed towards 
the back (like the Herjolfsnes ones) instead -- it's hard to know. 
I'm not bringing to mind any other medieval or earlier garments that 
have a square underarm gusset.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
<http://heatherrosejones.com>
*****
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<snip> There is one scene where she actually <gasp!> removes all her clothes
and takes a dip in a local pond, but it's presented as something she does
because she is a dreamy, poetic sort of person who loves nature (unlike
everyone else in the Middle Ages of course ;) rather than out of any thought
of actual cleanliness.
>
<snip>
Well yeah, everyone else hated nature coz it was out to kill them, nature is
frost and snow and sunburn and disease. only people who live far away from
nature like the thought of being close to nature.:)
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Hi everyone,
I saw some quilting cotton for a really good price at a local fabric store
and considered using it as a lining for a dress I'm making (well once I've
got the corset finished, but I figured I ought to snap up the bargain while
I could). The pattern calls for polished cotton but I haven't seen anything
labelled polished cotton here, can somebody give me a comparison of the
weight to other fabrics. Is it a similar weight to quilting cotton or is it
heavier like drill?
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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I seem to remember reading somewhere that once humanity settled
down  to  farming,  their  diets became a lot more limited - as
opposed  to  the diet provided by hunting/gathering - which led
to  a  form  of  malnutrition,  leading  to  decreased  size. (
The evidence  came from comparing skeleton sizes of Cro-Magnons
with later skeletons.) This trend didn't start to reverse until
well  into  the industrial  age/  revolution  with  the  rising
prosperity of the middle-classes.

I  also  remember  reading  somewhere that Lincoln had Marfan's
syndrome - which is why he was so tall.

There  is  this passage from 'Little House in the Big Woods' by
Laura Ingalls Wilder :

   '  Pull,  Ruby,  pull!  ' Aunt Docia said, breathless. 'Pull
harder.'  So  Aunt Ruby braced her feet and pulled harder. Aunt
Docia  kept measuring her waist with her hands, and at last she
gasped, ' I quess that's the best you can do. '
   She said, ' Caroline says Charles could span her waist with his hands, when they were married. '
   Caroline was Laura's Ma, and when she heard this Laura felt proud.

Even with tight lacing, to be able to have a waist *that* small, you would have to be a small person. In general, women are *not* big/tall.

I've also read about studies that correlate height with career success.

My 2c worth.

Joannah.


--- Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 09:44:37 +1200
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
Julie wrote:
>People  were smaller then. Just look at all the small uniforms
that have been recovered, small armor, etc. (what about some of
the  6  foot  plus  skeletons,  etc...Abe Lincoln) So were they
mostly  smaller? Sure seems to be so in current times. Children
are  often  taller  than  their parents and grandparents. Is it
diet? Is it genes?
>
>
It  depends what you mean. It's probably safest to say that the
heights
of _lower_class people have increased a good deal, but those of
upper
class  people  by  much less. A friend of mine is interested in
19th
century  militaria and says that many of the jackets he's found
have been
too  small  for  him-- and he's only 5'7" and slim. Heights are
determined
by  a  combination  of  genetics and diet. And a single example
doesn't
prove  anything  about averages-- Lincoln was considered a tall
man while
he was alive.
--
Adele de Maisieres
-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
-----------------------------
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shot silk
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What is shot?  I'm still learning all of the fabric descriptions.

Roscelin

E House wrote:

> This discussion reminds me of something I've been trying to track down 
> the last few days.  Exactly when did shot silk (or shot wool, for that 
> matter) fall out of fashion between the 15th & 16th centuries?  Fabric 
> shot with both gold and other colors shows up in manuscripts well into 
> the 16thC, but not in any portraits I can call to mind.  It seems 
> reasonable to assume that the shot effect seen in the manuscripts is 
> intended for artistic purposes only (in other words, as an opportunity 
> to lay on the gilt and make it look richer).



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shot silk
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In a message dated 6/7/2005 6:33:55 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
roscelin@pcez.com writes:

What is  shot?  I'm still learning all of the fabric  descriptions.




"Shot" has one color threads in the warp and another in the weft.   This 
gives an iridescent effect.
 
Ann Wass

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Message-ID: <00b301c56b5a$ef02bd50$0301010a@michaela>
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2005 00:17:54 +1200
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> However, there's really no point in buying that heavy weight polyester
satin
> when you can get cotton brocades and velveteen cheaper, and if you're
lucky
> you can get wool for the same price. This is based on prices available to
me
> from the two chain fabric stores locally (well technically there's 3
stores
> but only 2 chains), if I order online I can sometimes get an even better
> price. Buying silk satin in an appropriate weight is prohibitively
expensive
> (and I don't know about other countries but I've never seen it in person,
> just online) but there are alternatives to polyester if you can't afford
> silk.

It depends on the type of silk satin really. At Global fabrics I've found a
so called double organga that was essentially a silk satin for $NZ5/m and a
nice decent width. A spot of dye and backing fabric and it became a great
sleeve lining for my Valois gown and verdugardos. It needed to be washed so
I think a lot of people were put off by the papery feeling of it on the
bolt. I'm only replacing it because I want a white lining like the original.

Global Fabrics is unpredictable, but I haven't seen a silk over $NZ30/m and
that includes the silk/metal brocades. They have some stunning cream heavy
silk satin in at the moment that should be more tempting that it actually is
for me. I just have a fear of making something from fabric so beautiful and
ripping it/dropping soemthign on it etc etc. I don't have much in the way of
glass or crockery in my SCA feast gear for the same reason. It breaks.

Satin also probably isn't as flattering on me as matt fabrics anyway.

I have yet to buy fabric online, mostly because I like to feel the fabric
before buying it. Though for habotai (or any of the varient spellings/names
for the fabric) I was thinking about it. Before realising I could get it for
under $NZ10/m which was probably less than buying it online once the value
of the NZ dollar, shipping this far out and possible tax spalled on it at
this end.

heehee, I love how this thread has diverted from the original question, but
still is about satin. How often does that happen?

And slightly OT: prices can vary from store to store here wildly. I found
some really lovely fake fur for $NZ149.99/m which was $NZ79.99/m somewhere
else then $NZ49.99/m and finally $NZ29.99/m. The lower three prices I know
for sure were the exact same fabric, the first might have been different, I
can't recall... but the quality was the same.
So that silk satin I mentioned would likely be... about $NZ100/m in another
store. If not $NZ150/m.

michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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At 00:17 08/06/2005 +1200, you wrote:
> > However, there's really no point in buying that heavy weight polyester
>satin
> > when you can get cotton brocades and velveteen cheaper, and if you're
>lucky
> > you can get wool for the same price. This is based on prices available to
>me
> > from the two chain fabric stores locally (well technically there's 3
>stores
> > but only 2 chains), if I order online I can sometimes get an even better
> > price. Buying silk satin in an appropriate weight is prohibitively
>expensive
> > (and I don't know about other countries but I've never seen it in person,
> > just online) but there are alternatives to polyester if you can't afford
> > silk.

I have a couple of examples of silk duchesse satin which is really heavy, 
not too shiny, and curls like the devil so it is almost un-handleable!! The 
acetate satin on the other hand is really good and ideal for Edwardian/late 
Victorian skirts, which is what I was looking for. I can't remember prices, 
but the duchesse is far more than I would want to pay, I remember that!

Suzi


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So what should I do if I have nothing much to support, but wear a corset with my best 1640s attire to try to create the right look? It doesn't reach to my waist, but as I have no spare flesh on my torso, my ribs are unavoidably constricted so that I can't take a deep breath.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> cley@juno.com 04/06/2005 15:12 >>>
> 2) You can't breathe, much less do anything strenuous, in a corset.

Depends! If you're wearing the corset correctly, as a support garment,
you should be fine. If you're wearing one to confine your waist and ribs
and mash your breasts together up to your chin, then no.

Arlys
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Wear the corset loose enough to breathe and use some stuffing?
(it's not just for 20th century teenagers anymore!) HTH, Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 7:50 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths

So what should I do if I have nothing much to support, but wear a corset
with my best 1640s attire to try to create the right look? It doesn't reach
to my waist, but as I have no spare flesh on my torso, my ribs are
unavoidably constricted so that I can't take a deep breath.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: hose
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In "Dressing Renaissance Florence" by Carole Collier Frick ISBN 0801869390, 
she mentions the use of wool jersey for several items.

One specific reference by Frick: "A wide array of woolens was also 
available to citizens, from fine English wool cloth (finished in Florence 
in the Convento di San Martino) to the relatively inexpensive stretchable 
perpignan jersey used for hose, with many grades in between." pg 167.

In her Glossary (pg 315):
"perpigniano:  Woolen jersey cloth made in many colors, used mainly for 
hosiery worn by men, which originated in the town of Perpignan, France. 
However, in the Parenti ricordanza, f. 59V, a gamurra for a girl is also 
recorded as fashioned of 'perpigniano azurro con maniche di velluto verde'; 
the Dominican friars also occasionally made their toniche of perpigniano cupo."

Now the question is: What does Frick mean by the use of the term 
"jersey"  and what is the characteristics of the cloth that make it 
"stretchable"? To most of us this would imply a knit textile, but I cannot 
find supporting documentation (though we do know that knitted stockings 
were made in England by the time of Elizabeth I). Perhaps some variation on 
a twill is intended...

Beth

At 07:18 AM 6/7/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 23:13:14 EDT
>From: TeaRoseS@aol.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 379
>
>In a message dated 6/6/2005 7:55:17 P.M. Central Standard Time,
>Tea Rose writes:
>
>That's a good point! But Bruegel shows lots of guys wearing belts -- nearly
>all of them, in fact -- and the points still dangle. I'll have to make a
>survey  and see if I can find any belts  attached to the points.
>
>Someone not on this list was looking at my scans and wondered how they held
>their hose up. Neither the belts nor the hose seem to constrict their bodies
>at  all. Would it have been made out of something stretchy enough that the 
>ties
>at  the front would hold them on? Does anyone have first- or second-hand
>knowledge  of wearing hose like that, and if so, how did you keep them from
>falling  off?
>
>Tea Rose

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
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Yes like she said.  If even female impersonators can have cleavage, you can 
too.

>Wear the corset loose enough to breathe and use some stuffing?
>(it's not just for 20th century teenagers anymore!) HTH, Betsy
>
>-----Original Message-----
>So what should I do if I have nothing much to support, but wear a corset
>with my best 1640s attire to try to create the right look? It doesn't reach
>to my waist, but as I have no spare flesh on my torso, my ribs are
>unavoidably constricted so that I can't take a deep breath.




        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] polished cotton weight?
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 08:59:17 -0500
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"polished cotton" refers to the finish on the fabric, not to the weight.
You can find heavier polished cottons intended for drapery and
upholstery, and lighter weight for quilting.
Personally, I would use the quilting fabric for linings--unless for some
reason you need a really heavy, stiff lining.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:20 AM
To: historic costume
Subject: [h-cost] polished cotton weight?


Hi everyone,
I saw some quilting cotton for a really good price at a local fabric
store and considered using it as a lining for a dress I'm making (well
once I've got the corset finished, but I figured I ought to snap up the
bargain while I could). The pattern calls for polished cotton but I
haven't seen anything labelled polished cotton here, can somebody give
me a comparison of the weight to other fabrics. Is it a similar weight
to quilting cotton or is it heavier like drill? thanks Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
<snip>
> The pattern calls for polished cotton but I haven't seen anything
> labelled polished cotton here, can somebody give me a comparison of the
> weight to other fabrics. Is it a similar weight to quilting cotton or is 
> it
> heavier like drill?

It's heavier than quilting cotton, but only by a little--lighter than drill. 
The polished cotton I've seen was, however, more tightly woven than quilting 
cotton, which is what made it heavier; it was a plain weave and the threads 
were about the same size.

-E House

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-tunics for children
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Heather Rose Jones wrote:
> In general, underarm fitting problems happen when you have a 
> loose-fitting garment (so that the sleeve attachment to the body is 
> dropped down the shoulder somewhat), relatively tight sleeves (so that 
> movement of the arm forces the garment to move), and a belted style (so 
> that when the arm forces the garment to move, the belt stops it).

My belief is that modern people who buy ready-made shirts have gotten 
used to the idea that the shoulder-to-sleeve seam should be partway down 
the arm, when ideally, it should be much closer to the shoulder bone bump.

Robin's demonstration at her lecture showed that a fairly closely fitted 
upper body (say, nipples to shoulder area) cut in a medieval style was 
not likely to make someone feel constrained, because it moved 
differently -- exactly what you've written, above.

For us fat folks, gores get inserted to deal with bellies and all.

I recall from one of your lectures, Heather, that you had said that if 
there were only two gores, they were on the CF and CB, not the sides; do 
you still think this is so?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hennin veils Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> Actually, while draping the veil over the whole hennin (i.e. pointy hat) was
> more common there is evidence for veils dangling from the tip too. See this
> page http://members.fortunecity.com/cadieuxx/burgundy3.html the pictures
> showing veils dangling from the tip are about halfway down the page.

I belive that most of those have veils that run along the cone snugly, 
and then fall off at the end, giving the appearance of just at the tip. 
  You can see some light colored tracings at the front of the cones 
which may be folded "cuffs" on the veils, and some of them show the veil 
continuing over the forehead -- notably the fourth and sixth on that 
line on that page.

It's possible that the others hang just from the tip, but I'd be willing 
to put money against it.  Larger versions of the images would give us 
better information.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
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Get me a steam drill too!"
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths - pointy shoes
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Chris Laning wrote:

> P.S. Let's not forget "pointy toed shoes with points so long they have 
> to be fastened with chains to the knees so the wearer doesn't trip over 
> them" <g>

Hey, those are coming back into style. I saw a woman in dressy heels 
this weekend, with extended points on the front of the shoe. The toe was 
obviously designed to be long and thin, it wasn't just a narrow shoe she 
had squeezed into.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
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Have you considered a barrel corset? I have no idea what period they
are--Regina made mine for a 1500's Italian Ren, but it was the perfect
choice for a singer, as it doesn't constrict the ribs at all. It only
supports the dress.

Sorry I can't be more helpful--I don't costume.

Arlys

On Tue, 07 Jun 2005 13:50:23 +0100 "Kate M Bunting"
<K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> writes:
> So what should I do if I have nothing much to support, but wear a 
> corset with my best 1640s attire to try to create the right look? It 
> doesn't reach to my waist, but as I have no spare flesh on my torso, 
> my ribs are unavoidably constricted so that I can't take a deep 
> breath.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor

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*Much snippage below, as I'm on digest*

> Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 21:32:05 -0400
> From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@rogers.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <005a01c56b00$b6cf2d10$1d7f1b46@g5e4d0>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed;
> charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
> 
> Greetings--
> 
> > Or took sponge baths -- IIRC, what was thought to
> be most unhealthy was 
> > immersing the entire body in a tub of water. A
> sponge bath can get you 
> > quite clean and is more economical of hot water as
> well. (The only place 
> > where it really doesn't work is for washing a full
> head of hair -- that 
> > pretty much does require pouring or immersing or
> something.)
> 
> The other misconception about "bathing" in the
> Middle Ages is the idea that 
> the Church believed it to be sinful.  What the
> Church believed was sinful 
> was public mixed bathing in bathhouses (you know,
> the kind where the 
> Bohemian Bathhouse Babes were to be found :-).   It
> wasn't washing or 
> cleansing--indeed, the Church has a very long
> history of viewing that kind 
> of thing in very positive terms.
> 
> Susan 
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 17:37:07 +1000
> From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <002201c56b37$a5c128c0$32dbf5dc@e9q5h8>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> <snip> There is one scene where she actually <gasp!>
> removes all her clothes
> and takes a dip in a local pond, but it's presented
> as something she does
> because she is a dreamy, poetic sort of person who
> loves nature (unlike
> everyone else in the Middle Ages of course ;) rather
> than out of any thought
> of actual cleanliness.
> >
> <snip>
> Well yeah, everyone else hated nature coz it was out
> to kill them, nature is
> frost and snow and sunburn and disease. only people
> who live far away from
> nature like the thought of being close to nature.:)
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/


Combining a reply to both of these...

Michael Crichton brings up a point about basin/cloth
baths in his novel _Timeline_. The modern character,
when transported into medieval times, is taken into
the bedchamber to freshen up and wonders how he's ever
going to get clean with the basin he's provided with,
but tries. Then the servant comes to present him to
his host and is appalled at how unclean he still is,
and proceeds to finish the job, surprising the modern
guy with how much grunge he was able to get off with
such a seemingly small amount of water and lots of
scrubbing.

Back to lurking & enjoying the knowledge...
tracy


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> So what should I do if I have nothing much to support,
> but wear a corset with my best 1640s attire to try to
> create the right look? It doesn't reach to my waist, but
> as I have no spare flesh on my torso, my ribs are
> unavoidably constricted so that I can't take a deep breath.


By the 1640s, corsets really weren't separate garments anymore, and didn't 
re-separate until several decades later.  Instead, the bodice area was boned 
with an integral stiffened interlining (not always terribly stiff, for that 
matter).  The seams of this stiffened interlining didn't necessarily match 
the seams of the outer fabric, and parts of the bodice could be left 
completely unstiffened.

In Norah Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines, there's an example of a slightly 
earlier stiffened high-waisted bodice on p20.  The interlining is made of 
stiffened linen; probably somewhat like buckram. Only the back and sides are 
boned; there is no boning in the front, except for a piece on each side of 
the lacing holes.  Nonetheless, this particular extant garment must have 
produced instant cleavage--the only part of the stiffened lining that goes 
anywhere near the bust is along the sides of each breast (not over) which 
would squeeze 'em together pretty effectively.

So if you're trying to get the right look, skip the corset and figure out a 
way to re-work your lining!  It sounds like the above Corsets and Crinolines 
example would fix just about all the things you're having trouble with. =}

(Disclaimer, disclaimer, disclaimer:  This is not to say that absolutely no 
separate corsets existed in the mid 17th century.  They just weren't the 
norm; instead, the boned bodice was the norm.)

-E House 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 17:00:24 +0200
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Hi Suzi,
Yes curly duchesse satin, scared me a little two when i cut out my habit 
francaise. but it really was a dream to sew with it, and my satin wasnt 
shiny like fake satin is.
But you are right it is two expensive, i only baught mine because it was 
some money i had left from a holliday in Portugal, i only spended very 
little money there, and had a lot left when i got home.
Then i went to this shop we have, wich lies way out in the countryside, but 
only has silk and what silk..........
Sigh droll, but alas also very expensive prices.
I remember they had some taffeta wich was more beautifull than all the other 
taffetas, they also called it another name, but it was not shot taffeta, 
what could this have ben? It was a finer quality taffeta, and also much more 
beautifull colours.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question


> At 00:17 08/06/2005 +1200, you wrote:
>> > However, there's really no point in buying that heavy weight polyester
>>satin
>> > when you can get cotton brocades and velveteen cheaper, and if you're
>>lucky
>> > you can get wool for the same price. This is based on prices available 
>> > to
>>me
>> > from the two chain fabric stores locally (well technically there's 3
>>stores
>> > but only 2 chains), if I order online I can sometimes get an even 
>> > better
>> > price. Buying silk satin in an appropriate weight is prohibitively
>>expensive
>> > (and I don't know about other countries but I've never seen it in 
>> > person,
>> > just online) but there are alternatives to polyester if you can't 
>> > afford
>> > silk.
>
> I have a couple of examples of silk duchesse satin which is really heavy, 
> not too shiny, and curls like the devil so it is almost un-handleable!! 
> The acetate satin on the other hand is really good and ideal for 
> Edwardian/late Victorian skirts, which is what I was looking for. I can't 
> remember prices, but the duchesse is far more than I would want to pay, I 
> remember that!
>
> Suzi
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] polished cotton weight?
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> Hi everyone,
> I saw some quilting cotton for a really good price at a local fabric
> store and considered using it as a lining for a dress I'm making (well
> once I've got the corset finished, but I figured I ought to snap up the
> bargain while I could). The pattern calls for polished cotton but I
> haven't seen anything labelled polished cotton here, can somebody give
> me a comparison of the weight to other fabrics. Is it a similar weight
> to quilting cotton or is it heavier like drill?
> thanks
> Elizabeth

it is heavier than quilting cotton but not at all coarse.   I would
compare it to the heavy cottons that are sold for the fancy little girls
dresses, with a border on them?   thick and crisp if you know what I mean,
to make the skirts nice and full.   Polished cotton has a firm, somewhat
shiny finish.

Have you tried a web search?   Kitty


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At 13:50 07/06/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>So what should I do if I have nothing much to support, but wear a corset 
>with my best 1640s attire to try to create the right look? It doesn't 
>reach to my waist, but as I have no spare flesh on my torso, my ribs are 
>unavoidably constricted so that I can't take a deep breath.
>
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
> >>> cley@juno.com 04/06/2005 15:12 >>>
> > 2) You can't breathe, much less do anything strenuous, in a corset.
>
>Depends! If you're wearing the corset correctly, as a support garment,
>you should be fine. If you're wearing one to confine your waist and ribs
>and mash your breasts together up to your chin, then no.


Do you actually *need* to wear a corset? Many of the extant bodices (often 
silk) of the 1640's that I have seen have bones built into them, thus 
saving the necessity of a separate corset. It seems perfectly possible that 
corsets may not have been worn at this time, although I have no proof 
either way. I do not know of any corsets actually in existence from this 
era. Does anyone else know of any?

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Please Help Date A Corset
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Is there any chance of pictures?  They really would be worth a thousand 
words, here...

-E House 

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TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:


> Someone not on this list was looking at my scans and wondered how they held  
> their hose up. Neither the belts nor the hose seem to constrict their bodies 
> at  all. Would it have been made out of something stretchy enough that the ties 
> at  the front would hold them on? Does anyone have first- or second-hand 
> knowledge  of wearing hose like that, and if so, how did you keep them from 
> falling  off?


That one picture you scanned shows a waistband held closed in front with 
a looped knot that closes a gap or perhaps an inch or two. I would guess 
that the tension there is enough to hold the hose up, combined with the 
close fit of the hose themselves. If the waist is cut on the straight so 
it doesn't stretch then you'd get good hold.

My one experiment with men's bias hose was 15 years ago, but I recall 
that they did keep themselves up reasonably well.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century corset was costuming myths
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Hi Suzi and Kate

I would say the same thing. The most important of your appearal is that your 
bodice sits very well and you wont have any wrinkles anywhere. The fabric 
should sit smooth all the way round.
You could have a corset made wich just sits tight to your body, not 
nescesary to reduce your waist or anything, but it must be boned so that 
your bodice will sit well.

Bjarne.

I just got a note from Ian the staymaker that he had travelled to the other 
side of Brittain to examin a corset from 1630-40 wich was hided in a house 
wall.
I hope to se some photos of it, would be very interresting.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 5:01 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 17th century corset was costuming myths


> At 13:50 07/06/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>>So what should I do if I have nothing much to support, but wear a corset 
>>with my best 1640s attire to try to create the right look? It doesn't 
>>reach to my waist, but as I have no spare flesh on my torso, my ribs are 
>>unavoidably constricted so that I can't take a deep breath.
>>
>>Kate Bunting
>>Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>>
>> >>> cley@juno.com 04/06/2005 15:12 >>>
>> > 2) You can't breathe, much less do anything strenuous, in a corset.
>>
>>Depends! If you're wearing the corset correctly, as a support garment,
>>you should be fine. If you're wearing one to confine your waist and ribs
>>and mash your breasts together up to your chin, then no.
>
>
> Do you actually *need* to wear a corset? Many of the extant bodices (often 
> silk) of the 1640's that I have seen have bones built into them, thus 
> saving the necessity of a separate corset. It seems perfectly possible 
> that corsets may not have been worn at this time, although I have no proof 
> either way. I do not know of any corsets actually in existence from this 
> era. Does anyone else know of any?
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair, was costuming myths
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> That doesn't mean I don't *clean* my hair, I just don't wash it -- I brush
> it thoroughly every day (and clean my brushes), and rinse periodically
> with an infusion from herbs from my garden.


Pardon this for being late, I'm wading through 300+ messages now that 
I'm home from vacation....

I've found that it's not so much the shampoo that can damage your hair 
as the method you use with the product. Most people have learned to pile 
their hair onto the top of their head and work it into a tangled lather. 
  And then they try to comb it out when it's wet and most susceptible to 
damage.

I comb my hair out, then wet it down, then lather the scalp areas while 
leaving the ends hanging, and the result is far less tangling and 
breakage from having to untangle it afterward. I also don't use *hot* 
water. Yes, it's warm, but it's not scalding, and I find that makes a 
big difference in manageability, too.

A lot of folks who want long, beautiful, 'period' hair are failing 
because the care techniques they've learned don't apply to hair that 
gets beyond shoulder length. For some really good care tips, I recommend 
this website: http://www.tlhs.org/

Not trying to say that your herbal rinse isn't a great way to care for 
hair, but that folks who might be aprehensive about taking the step away 
from a modern product CAN do things less scary than giving up shampoo 
entirely.



Dawn



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century corset was costuming myths
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At 17:51 07/06/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi Suzi and Kate
>
>I would say the same thing. The most important of your appearal is that 
>your bodice sits very well and you wont have any wrinkles anywhere. The 
>fabric should sit smooth all the way round.
>You could have a corset made wich just sits tight to your body, not 
>nescesary to reduce your waist or anything, but it must be boned so that 
>your bodice will sit well.
>
>Bjarne.
>
>I just got a note from Ian the staymaker that he had travelled to the 
>other side of Brittain to examin a corset from 1630-40 wich was hided in a 
>house wall.
>I hope to se some photos of it, would be very interresting.
>
>Bjarne


Will you ask Ian if he would mind you sharing the photos? I would really 
like to see a corset of that period, and I am sure the other members of the 
list would too. Also is he going to publish any information about it? That 
would be even better.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: baths
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Tracy:

> Michael Crichton brings up a point about basin/cloth
> baths in his novel _Timeline_. The modern character,
> when transported into medieval times, is taken into
> the bedchamber to freshen up and wonders how he's ever
> going to get clean with the basin he's provided with,
> but tries. Then the servant comes to present him to
> his host and is appalled at how unclean he still is,
> and proceeds to finish the job, surprising the modern
> guy with how much grunge he was able to get off with
> such a seemingly small amount of water and lots of
> scrubbing.

One of the few things he got right in that book... a major disappointment,
IMHO. Never saw the movie, I just couldn't stand even the idea. My biggest
memory of the book is the female character (who wore a wig to go back in
time, and then took it off when she needed people to think she was a boy --
no mention of her clothes!!) climbing everything in sight. I think rock
climbing must have been really in style in California at the time.

Gail Finke

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Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 18:05:57 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ISO millinary buckram/ stiffener??
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When I wanted to make a new stomacher a few years ago, like you I couldn't find anything nearly stiff enough in the shops. Drea Leed told me (via this list ) how to make my own buckram by painting several thicknesses of canvas with dilute glue (the white kind used for sticking paper). I've made two stomachers in this way and it works very well.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths - pointy shoes
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 10:07:53 -0700
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I saw a man in a pair a couple of weeks ago wearing a pair where the toe 
extended about 3-4 inches out, narrowing and curving slight up.

He was the manager of a shoe store, so this must be a hot new trend.

Tayla

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 7:39 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths - pointy shoes


> Chris Laning wrote:
>
>> P.S. Let's not forget "pointy toed shoes with points so long they have to 
>> be fastened with chains to the knees so the wearer doesn't trip over 
>> them" <g>
>
> Hey, those are coming back into style. I saw a woman in dressy heels this 
> weekend, with extended points on the front of the shoe. The toe was 
> obviously designed to be long and thin, it wasn't just a narrow shoe she 
> had squeezed into.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths - pointy shoes
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 12:26:38 -0500
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sablerose" <tayla@sablerose.net>
>I saw a man in a pair a couple of weeks ago wearing a pair where the toe 
>extended about 3-4 inches out, narrowing and curving slight up.
>
> He was the manager of a shoe store, so this must be a hot new trend.



On one of the "What Not To Wear" episodes on TLC, the host Stacy was going 
on and on about how pointy shoes were the revolutionary newnewnew thing, and 
I just had to put my head in my hands and groan. Oy.

-E House


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths - pointy shoes
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Sablerose wrote:

> I saw a man in a pair a couple of weeks ago wearing a pair where the toe 
> extended about 3-4 inches out, narrowing and curving slight up.
> 
> He was the manager of a shoe store, so this must be a hot new trend.

In Venice we saw black pointy shoes with a little gondola-front-bit on 
the end.  We assumed they were for over-enthusiastic rich tourists.  (As 
opposed to us over-enthusiastic miserly tourists.)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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Speaking of carrying small animals in your clothing....


http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/8117876/?GT1=6657


"There must have been something fishy about the way she walked. Customs 
officials said Monday they stopped a woman as she arrived Friday in the 
southern city of Melbourne on a flight from Singapore and found 51 live 
tropical fish allegedly hidden in a specially designed apron under her 
skirt...."



Dawn
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths (corsetry)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
>So what should I do if I have nothing much to support, but wear a
corset with my best >1640s attire to try to create the right look? It
doesn't reach to my waist, but as I have
>no spare flesh on my torso, my ribs are unavoidably constricted so
that I can't take a >deep breath.

My body size is much like yours and my current gown project is based
on the 1628 portrait of Henrietta of Lorraine.  The conical corset
will give you the right body shape; cleavage was not guaranteed.  (I
dont get any either.)  A corset should never be too tight so tight you
cant breathe. Never. Never.

It sounds to me like your corset doesnt actually fit. 

Perhaps the area over the diaphragm is too tight with respect to the
bustline and/or waistline.  Second guess is that it's too big and you
are compensating by over tightening.  I can polka all nite in my
Elizo-Stuart corset (yeah, yeah polka's out of period, but you know
what I mean), I can buckle my shoes, I can drive in a car with
bucketseats.

What should you do?  Find a corsetiere who can make one that actually
fits you.  Neat tidy sewing that just follows the pattern isnt
guaranteed to fit anyone. If you can find someone who's just as
skinny, then s/he'll know the special problems and solutions for your
body type.  When I'm wandering down at the skinnier end of my weight
range, I even put the out-of-period shoulder straps back on my corset.
 It helps with the tendancy towards slippage.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: nature (waws Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair)
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Quoting Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>:

> <snip> There is one scene where she actually <gasp!> removes all her clothes
> and takes a dip in a local pond, but it's presented as something she does
> because she is a dreamy, poetic sort of person who loves nature (unlike
> everyone else in the Middle Ages of course ;) rather than out of any thought
> of actual cleanliness.
>>
> <snip>
> Well yeah, everyone else hated nature coz it was out to kill them, nature is
> frost and snow and sunburn and disease. only people who live far away from
> nature like the thought of being close to nature.:)

You know, there's still a lot of truth in that statement.  I was leading a
group of children on a hike in the Smoky Mountains National Park.  The kids
who were "afraid" of being Out In The Woods were the ones that lived in
Gatlinburg (the town^H^H^H^HTourist-Trap) that's right next to the park!

Susan (botanist and wildflower junkie)
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths - pointy shoes
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 13:50:20 -0400
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths - pointy shoes


> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Sablerose" <tayla@sablerose.net>
>>I saw a man in a pair a couple of weeks ago wearing a pair where the toe 
>>extended about 3-4 inches out, narrowing and curving slight up.
>>
>> He was the manager of a shoe store, so this must be a hot new trend.
>
>
>
> On one of the "What Not To Wear" episodes on TLC, the host Stacy was going 
> on and on about how pointy shoes were the revolutionary newnewnew thing, 
> and I just had to put my head in my hands and groan. Oy.

Stacy also believes every woman should wear nothing BUT pointy-toed high 
heels. I don't care if they make my legs look longer, I cannot stand to wear 
heels. They HURT. And it's not like people will suddenly not realize that 
I'm short!

Dianne

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  7 14:14:37 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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Hi,
Have you seen the trailer of the new Pride and Prejudice?
The time is set to 1795.
How do you think the costumes are?
http://movies.yahoo.com/feature/prideandprejudice.html 

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century corset was costuming myths
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>
> Will you ask Ian if he would mind you sharing the photos? I would really 
> like to see a corset of that period, and I am sure the other members of 
> the list would too. Also is he going to publish any information about it? 
> That would be even better.
>
> Suzi

Hi Suzi,
Well i should try and ask him about it, i know he only has a slow internet 
provider, so perhaps it would be difficult to send me pictures.

Bjarne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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At 20:13 07/06/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Have you seen the trailer of the new Pride and Prejudice?
>The time is set to 1795.
>How do you think the costumes are?
>http://movies.yahoo.com/feature/prideandprejudice.html
>Bjarne


Personal opinion only. I think these costumes bear very little relationship 
to 1795. Judi Dench, who is "posh" is wearing clothes from the 1780's at 
the latest, and so are many of the older women. No attempt seems to have 
been made to give the leading actresses anything like the right period hair 
styles. The dresses look limp and skimpy, and the coat that Keira Knightley 
is seen in beggars description. I for one will not be paying good money to 
see this. There are enough fashion plates and paintings about for the 
designer to look at. Why didn't he/she? Or if they did, the interpretation 
is not what mine would have been.

Can you tell I don't like it?

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] new historical tv series?
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Sometime over the weekend while I was travelling I saw a preview or an 
ad for what I think was a new US TV series -- a family drama set in 
American Colonial times. Unfortunately, I can't remember the details of 
where or what I saw in the airports, on billboards, or late night 
channel surfing on hotel cable tv. Does anyone here know what I'm 
talking about? It might be a movie or a mini-series, but I'm pretty sure 
it was TV because the thought of historical TV drama caught my 
attention. I'd love to find more info on the program, whatever it was.



Dawn


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 22:39:40 +0200
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Strange, i think i replyed to your mail, but it didnt get trough, so i try 
once more:

I think that excactly this point, that the mature ladies in the film wears 
1780ies styles, makes it more realistic.
Remember that fashion changed very slowly in the small country towns, and 
didnt the previous film, wich i love and treassure, make the Bennet family 
richer than it is in the novel?
I find it very likely that ladies in a mature age, didnt dare to wear the 
high waisted fashion, and especially not country ladies.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice


> At 20:13 07/06/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>Have you seen the trailer of the new Pride and Prejudice?
>>The time is set to 1795.
>>How do you think the costumes are?
>>http://movies.yahoo.com/feature/prideandprejudice.html
>>Bjarne
>
>
> Personal opinion only. I think these costumes bear very little 
> relationship to 1795. Judi Dench, who is "posh" is wearing clothes from 
> the 1780's at the latest, and so are many of the older women. No attempt 
> seems to have been made to give the leading actresses anything like the 
> right period hair styles. The dresses look limp and skimpy, and the coat 
> that Keira Knightley is seen in beggars description. I for one will not be 
> paying good money to see this. There are enough fashion plates and 
> paintings about for the designer to look at. Why didn't he/she? Or if they 
> did, the interpretation is not what mine would have been.
>
> Can you tell I don't like it?
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 13:04:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair, was costuming myths
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Dawn said,
> Not trying to say that your herbal rinse isn't a great way to care for
> hair, but that folks who might be aprehensive about taking the step away
> from a modern product CAN do things less scary than giving up shampoo
> entirely.

     For those in the Washington, DC area, here's a shameless commercial
plug - my friend Alan is planning to open a salon for long hair.

http://www.downyourback.com/

     Since we long-haired types don't go to salons very often, it will
take more of us to support it - even if just occasionally for hair
toys and bariding. :-)

     -Carol
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century corset was costuming myths
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Note that I said "my best 1640s attire". For most events I wear a lightly boned wool bodice with a firm lining, which provides quite enough support for me. However, I bought a ready-made corset to wear with a lighter-weight bodice for parties and concerts, hoping it might give me a bit of cleavage. (It doesn't unless I use padding.)
One of these days I must make myself a new "best" bodice and experiment with a different style.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> suzi@suziclarke.co.uk 07/06/2005 16:01 >>>
>Do you actually *need* to wear a corset? Many of the extant bodices >(often silk) of the 1640's that I have seen have bones built into them, >thus saving the necessity of a separate corset. It seems perfectly >possible that corsets may not have been worn at this time, although I >have no proof either way. I do not know of any corsets actually in >existence from this era. Does anyone else know of any?

Suzi


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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
At 00:17 08/06/2005 +1200, you wrote:
> I have a couple of examples of silk duchesse satin which is really heavy,
>not too shiny, and curls like the devil so it is almost un-handleable!! 

Argh, modern duchesse!  Fiendish stuff.  A friend just flung 2 yds of
the curly writhing demon infested stuff at me (including cutout
garment pieces) with a screech of frustration.  I've tamed it somewhat
using a very lightweight fusible interfacing.  Some of the smaller
garment pieces became an impromptu fusibles sampler.  Of the dozen I
tried, pellon shirtweight and Easy-Knit tamed the duchess demonic curl
without destroying the "hand".

The 1/2 yd test piece she tossed in the washer has an amusing change
of personality.  It's limper, scrunchy, less curly and the shiny glaze
is gone.  It will probably become a hat.

>The
>acetate satin on the other hand is really good and ideal for Edwardian/late
>Victorian skirts, which is what I was looking for. I can't remember prices,
>but the duchesse is far more than I would want to pay, I remember that!

>Suzi

I would never use acetate on any vintage reconstruction.  I think it
looks cheap & modern, which it is.  If you need something for those
Edwardian evening gowns that isnt quite so heavyweight or expensive,
then try some the taffeta & damask woven silks.  Lovely hand,
documentable fiber content, looks elegant.  What's not to like?  OTOH,
look at all those Worth gowns... beading looks grand on silk satin. 
Dee-lish!

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 20:27:20 +0200
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Forgot to give you my 2 cents.
To me it looks as if there are some ladies who still wears 1780ies fashions, 
This i think is realistic. I can imagine how slow fashion changes in small 
villages, and especially mature ladies, would not dare to change to the new 
high waisted fashion.
I have heard that people dont like this, but i think it gives a realistic 
image of how life was in the country back then.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 8:13 PM
Subject: [h-cost] pride and prejudice


> Hi,
> Have you seen the trailer of the new Pride and Prejudice?
> The time is set to 1795.
> How do you think the costumes are?
> http://movies.yahoo.com/feature/prideandprejudice.html
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
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Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 11:34:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ISO millinary buckram/ stiffener??
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Info please :) !!!!
 
Thank you,
 
Chris G.

Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:
When I wanted to make a new stomacher a few years ago, like you I couldn't find anything nearly stiff enough in the shops. Drea Leed told me (via this list ) how to make my own buckram by painting several thicknesses of canvas with dilute glue (the white kind used for sticking paper). I've made two stomachers in this way and it works very well.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 11:56:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> At 20:13 07/06/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>Have you seen the trailer of the new Pride and Prejudice?
>>The time is set to 1795.
>>How do you think the costumes are?
>>http://movies.yahoo.com/feature/prideandprejudice.html
>>Bjarne
>
>
> Personal opinion only. I think these costumes bear very little
> relationship
> to 1795. Judi Dench, who is "posh" is wearing clothes from the 1780's at
> the latest, and so are many of the older women. No attempt seems to have
> been made to give the leading actresses anything like the right period
> hair
> styles. The dresses look limp and skimpy, and the coat that Keira
> Knightley
> is seen in beggars description. I for one will not be paying good money to
> see this. There are enough fashion plates and paintings about for the
> designer to look at. Why didn't he/she? Or if they did, the interpretation
> is not what mine would have been.
>

I agree that things don't look appropriate or fitted.  I also think that
too many of the characters looked "dressed down" while in company.  But
that doesn't mean that I won't pay money to see it.  If I only saw movies
based on how good/period the costumes are, I would miss many otherwise
good movies!

It will be hard to see new people play my old favorite characters, but I
am going to try to give it a chance.  I also plan to see the early BBC
version of P & P soon.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote
>Hi,
>Have you seen the trailer of the new Pride and Prejudice?
>The time is set to 1795.
>How do you think the costumes are?
>http://movies.yahoo.com/feature/prideandprejudice.html
>Bjarne
>
It looks terribly dark and dismal, for most of it.  I played the trailer 
without sound, and if I hadn't know I would have assumed it was Jane 
Eyre (lots of windswept heath) or something set in the Grim North.  The 
designer obviously had a bad attack of "history must be mud-coloured". 
And the hair is just rubbish and kills any historical atmosphere.

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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At 22:39 07/06/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>Strange, i think i replyed to your mail, but it didnt get trough, so i try 
>once more:
>
>I think that excactly this point, that the mature ladies in the film wears 
>1780ies styles, makes it more realistic.
>Remember that fashion changed very slowly in the small country towns, and 
>didnt the previous film, wich i love and treassure, make the Bennet family 
>richer than it is in the novel?
>I find it very likely that ladies in a mature age, didnt dare to wear the 
>high waisted fashion, and especially not country ladies.

Yes, but Lady Whosis(can't remember - Catherine de Burgh?) , the character 
that Judi Dench plays, as far as I remember is a fashionable lady, and 
would not be seen dead in the fashions of 15 years before. I have seen 
totally unflattering portraits of upper class ladies in that fashion, and 
they were awful!! And if the Bennett girls are poor, then why are they 
wearing supposedly fashionable clothes - there were 5(?) of them and Father 
could not have afforded fashionable clothes for all of them. No I'm sorry, 
I am prejudiced against it from the start - I really loathe the costumes!!


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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>
>e:
> > I have a couple of examples of silk duchesse satin which is really heavy,
> >not too shiny, and curls like the devil so it is almost un-handleable!!
>
>Argh, modern duchesse!  Fiendish stuff.  A friend just flung 2 yds of
>the curly writhing demon infested stuff at me (including cutout
>garment pieces) with a screech of frustration.  I've tamed it somewhat
>using a very lightweight fusible interfacing.  Some of the smaller
>garment pieces became an impromptu fusibles sampler.  Of the dozen I
>tried, pellon shirtweight and Easy-Knit tamed the duchess demonic curl
>without destroying the "hand".
>
>The 1/2 yd test piece she tossed in the washer has an amusing change
>of personality.  It's limper, scrunchy, less curly and the shiny glaze
>is gone.  It will probably become a hat.
>
> >The
> >acetate satin on the other hand is really good and ideal for Edwardian/late
> >Victorian skirts, which is what I was looking for. I can't remember prices,
> >but the duchesse is far more than I would want to pay, I remember that!
>
> >Suzi
>
>I would never use acetate on any vintage reconstruction.  I think it
>looks cheap & modern, which it is.

Sorry to disagree, but the acetate satin I get here in England is perfectly 
fine for period reproductions. I have a genuine late Victorian/Edwardian 
skirt, and the weight, feel, hand and sheen are almost identical.

>  If you need something for those
>Edwardian evening gowns that isnt quite so heavyweight or expensive,
>then try some the taffeta & damask woven silks.  Lovely hand,
>documentable fiber content, looks elegant.

For what I want, the satin is ideal. Taffeta and damask would be quite 
inappropriate as the customer wants an all-purpose skirt to go with 
different bodices for different events - a shirtwaist blouse for day wear, 
and an evening bodice for evening recitals. I have a genuine Worth bodice 
in damask, from about 1893, and nothing I have seen comes near to it. I 
would almost say it was a cotton/silk mixture. The colour, texture and hand 
are really difficult to match with anything modern. There is an identical 
bodice in satin, with a matching skirt, in Boston I think. I am not going 
into the beading thing - again, not what the customer wants. And the 
customer is King!

>  What's not to like?  OTOH,
>look at all those Worth gowns... beading looks grand on silk satin.

  I am not going into the beading thing - again, not what the customer 
wants. And the customer is King!

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hennin veils Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1133706072.86bb55@thibault.org> wrote
>Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
>
>> Actually, while draping the veil over the whole hennin (i.e. pointy hat) was
>> more common there is evidence for veils dangling from the tip too. See this
>> page http://members.fortunecity.com/cadieuxx/burgundy3.html the pictures
>> showing veils dangling from the tip are about halfway down the page.
>
>I belive that most of those have veils that run along the cone snugly, 
>and then fall off at the end, giving the appearance of just at the tip. 
>You can see some light colored tracings at the front of the cones which 
>may be folded "cuffs" on the veils, and some of them show the veil 
>continuing over the forehead -- notably the fourth and sixth on that 
>line on that page.
>
>It's possible that the others hang just from the tip, but I'd be 
>willing to put money against it.  Larger versions of the images would 
>give us better information.
>
I have tried this (not in a totally period context - my work colleagues 
made me a big cone hennin for my leaving present, half-filled with 
chocolates, and I undertook to wear it on my last day!) (without the 
chocolates!!) What I found was that, even with a very light veil, as 
near to transparent as I could get, when you have that much length 
there's still quite a bit of weight to it.  Attaching it to the point 
would make it extremely difficult to balance the cone, but when it is 
draped over the whole length it works.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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I know that y'all know just about everything ....

Is there a way to get that junk out of velcro (tm)?  The one side attracts
*everything*

Thanks,
Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> Is there a way to get that junk out of velcro (tm)?  The one side attracts
> *everything*

Clothilde used to sell a little wire brush dingus for just this purpose. 
  If you have carding combs, it's much the same, but smaller.  It's also 
like the little wire brush for suede-sole dance shoes.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2005 09:48:17 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Joannah Hansen wrote:

>There  is  this passage from 'Little House in the Big Woods' by
>Laura Ingalls Wilder :
>
>   '  Pull,  Ruby,  pull!  ' Aunt Docia said, breathless. 'Pull
>harder.'  So  Aunt Ruby braced her feet and pulled harder. Aunt
>Docia  kept measuring her waist with her hands, and at last she
>gasped, ' I quess that's the best you can do. '
>   She said, ' Caroline says Charles could span her waist with his hands, when they were married. '
>   Caroline was Laura's Ma, and when she heard this Laura felt proud.
>
>Even with tight lacing, to be able to have a waist *that* small, you would have to be a small person. In general, women are *not* big/tall.
>  
>
I don't think you can generalise from that. I knew a girl in high school 
in the 1980s who was 5'0" and had an 18" waist.  That doesn't indicate 
that people were smaller in the 1980s, thogh.

Tight lacing was far less common than is popularly imagined.  The most 
common range of sizes for corsets produced in Great Britain was waist 
sized 18-30 inches, which would have covered natural waist sizes from 
about 19 to 35 inches. 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
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Kate M Bunting wrote:

>So what should I do if I have nothing much to support, but wear a corset with my best 1640s attire to try to create the right look? It doesn't reach to my waist, but as I have no spare flesh on my torso, my ribs are unavoidably constricted so that I can't take a deep breath.
>  
>

If you can't breathe, your corset is too tight and that's all there is 
too it.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's peasant costume
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Dawn wrote:

> TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>> Someone not on this list was looking at my scans and wondered how 
>> they held  their hose up. Neither the belts nor the hose seem to 
>> constrict their bodies at  all. Would it have been made out of 
>> something stretchy enough that the ties at  the front would hold them 
>> on? Does anyone have first- or second-hand knowledge  of wearing hose 
>> like that, and if so, how did you keep them from falling  off?
>
>
> That one picture you scanned shows a waistband held closed in front 
> with a looped knot that closes a gap or perhaps an inch or two. I 
> would guess that the tension there is enough to hold the hose up, 
> combined with the close fit of the hose themselves. If the waist is 
> cut on the straight so it doesn't stretch then you'd get good hold.
>
> My one experiment with men's bias hose was 15 years ago, but I recall 
> that they did keep themselves up reasonably well.

Not to mention that the waistband itself may well be cut on the straight 
rather than the bias.  If so, once it was pointed on at the front, there 
simply wouldn't be enough stretch in the back waistband for the hose to 
go anywhere.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Jean Waddie wrote:

> Attaching it to the point 
> would make it extremely difficult to balance the cone, but when it is 
> draped over the whole length it works.

A pound of bb-gun shot in a cloth bag inside the front does wonders.  ;)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Want to see my Brass Rubbings?"
     "Mediaevalist on Board" license plate frames
           at http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths - pointy shoes
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E House wrote:

>
> On one of the "What Not To Wear" episodes on TLC, the host Stacy was 
> going on and on about how pointy shoes were the revolutionary 
> newnewnew thing, and I just had to put my head in my hands and groan. Oy.
>
Stacy?  Is this some kind of American edition of WNTW?

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Strange, i think i replyed to your mail, but it didnt get trough, so i 
> try once more:
>
> I think that excactly this point, that the mature ladies in the film 
> wears 1780ies styles, makes it more realistic.
> Remember that fashion changed very slowly in the small country towns, 
> and didnt the previous film, wich i love and treassure, make the 
> Bennet family richer than it is in the novel?


If you mean the 1996 BBC TV production, then no, I don't think so.  The 
Bennets are comfortable enough to have one manservant and a housekeeper, 
keep a nice house, and be reasonably well dressed, but poor enough that 
their horses have to double duty on the farm and drawing their carriage, 
they don't spend any time in town, and there's no real money to provide 
a dowry for any of the girls.  There's also a hint in that they 
economise by not heating every room in winter. I think that about jives 
with the book.

You're not thinking of the Dashwoods in Sense and Sensibility, are you?  
They're definitely more in the area of genteel poverty, with only £500 
per annum to support three adults and a little girl.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
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Jean Waddie wrote:

> [Pride and Prejudice] looks terribly dark and dismal, for most of it.  
> I played the trailer without sound, and if I hadn't know I would have 
> assumed it was Jane Eyre (lots of windswept heath) or something set in 
> the Grim North.  The designer obviously had a bad attack of "history 
> must be mud-coloured". And the hair is just rubbish and kills any 
> historical atmosphere.


Urrgh... I wonder if the script will be as abynmal as that version of 
Mansfield Park that came out a few years ago...

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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 I will withhold judgement until I see the movie. Remember that Lady
Catherine du Burgh might be wealthy, but she is very opinionated and in
all other movie adaptations of P&P we have seen her dressed in the
latest fashions--some which look ridiculous on older women who generally
didn't wear the latest fashions--and the new fashions of the 1790's were
sometimes thought downright indecent by the older generation.
High-waisted female fashions hadn't existed since the second quarter of
the 17th century among fashionable Europeans, so no one was living to
recall fashions of the court of Charles I, let alone the new fashionable
muslins, calicoes, and low to flat-heeled slippers. Some gowns of the
18th century survive today that show alteration to the newly-fashionable
high waist, but the original long bodice survives within these gowns to
show that those that altered them or ordered their alteration, weren't
about to trust that the high-waisted fashion would last--the skirt could
be lowered back to its original level should Dame Fashion declare it so.

As for the movie being dark--it appears to have been shot in natural
light--or what would appear to be natural light to our eyes circa 1795.
Read P&P again carefully. Despite it being "light, bright and sparkling"
compared to the rest of Austen's work, there is a really dark undertone
throughout.



Also, who did the costuming?--Jenny Beaven who did "Sense and
Sensiblity" complained that the higher-ups(read Hollywood big wigs")
pressured her into removing several underlayers of petticoats so that
the female characters would be more in line with present day thin and
flat aesthetics in fashion. 

Cindy Abel

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Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2005 10:23:04 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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Suzi Clarke wrote:

> At 22:39 07/06/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>
>> Strange, i think i replyed to your mail, but it didnt get trough, so 
>> i try once more:
>>
>> I think that excactly this point, that the mature ladies in the film 
>> wears 1780ies styles, makes it more realistic.
>> Remember that fashion changed very slowly in the small country towns, 
>> and didnt the previous film, wich i love and treassure, make the 
>> Bennet family richer than it is in the novel?
>> I find it very likely that ladies in a mature age, didnt dare to wear 
>> the high waisted fashion, and especially not country ladies.
>
>
> Yes, but Lady Whosis(can't remember - Catherine de Burgh?) , the 
> character that Judi Dench plays, as far as I remember is a fashionable 
> lady, and would not be seen dead in the fashions of 15 years before. 

I don't remember that from the book... must re-read it.  All I can 
remember about Lady C d'B's taste is that her house is very expensively 
furnished, but her choices show less real taste than the furnishings at 
Pemberly.

> I have seen totally unflattering portraits of upper class ladies in 
> that fashion, and they were awful!! And if the Bennett girls are poor, 
> then why are they wearing supposedly fashionable clothes - there were 
> 5(?) of them and Father could not have afforded fashionable clothes 
> for all of them. No I'm sorry, I am prejudiced against it from the 
> start - I really loathe the costumes!! 


Poverty is relative-- they're poor in terms of the marriage market (the 
sisters will only inherit £1000 each from their mother and their 
father's estate is entailed upon their cousin Mr. Collins), but they're 
not meant to be living some sort of hand-to-mouth existance.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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At 10:23 08/06/2005 +1200, you wrote:
>Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
>>At 22:39 07/06/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>>
>>>Strange, i think i replyed to your mail, but it didnt get trough, so i 
>>>try once more:
>>>
>>>I think that excactly this point, that the mature ladies in the film 
>>>wears 1780ies styles, makes it more realistic.
>>>Remember that fashion changed very slowly in the small country towns, 
>>>and didnt the previous film, wich i love and treassure, make the Bennet 
>>>family richer than it is in the novel?
>>>I find it very likely that ladies in a mature age, didnt dare to wear 
>>>the high waisted fashion, and especially not country ladies.
>>
>>
>>Yes, but Lady Whosis(can't remember - Catherine de Burgh?) , the 
>>character that Judi Dench plays, as far as I remember is a fashionable 
>>lady, and would not be seen dead in the fashions of 15 years before.
>
>I don't remember that from the book... must re-read it.  All I can 
>remember about Lady C d'B's taste is that her house is very expensively 
>furnished, but her choices show less real taste than the furnishings at 
>Pemberly.
>
>>I have seen totally unflattering portraits of upper class ladies in that 
>>fashion, and they were awful!! And if the Bennett girls are poor, then 
>>why are they wearing supposedly fashionable clothes - there were 5(?) of 
>>them and Father could not have afforded fashionable clothes for all of 
>>them. No I'm sorry, I am prejudiced against it from the start - I really 
>>loathe the costumes!!
>
>
>Poverty is relative-- they're poor in terms of the marriage market (the 
>sisters will only inherit £1000 each from their mother and their father's 
>estate is entailed upon their cousin Mr. Collins), but they're not meant 
>to be living some sort of hand-to-mouth existance.


I have to confess that I am only going on what I learned from the two 
Austen novels I have read, and the films I have seen. I have not read P and 
P  or S and S. (My choices were Northanger Abbey and Persuasion). I just 
don't like the costumes from the new one that I have seen. Even if they are 
"authentic" suitable for age and status, place in the country and in 
society, and so on, I do not like them. They irk my costumer's soul. (Just 
because I might have to make costumes on the cheap, out of period and to 
order, doesn't mean I want to see that kind of costume on screen!!)



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At 17:26 07/06/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>
>>Is there a way to get that junk out of velcro (tm)?  The one side attracts
>>*everything*
>
>Clothilde used to sell a little wire brush dingus for just this 
>purpose.  If you have carding combs, it's much the same, but 
>smaller.  It's also like the little wire brush for suede-sole dance shoes.


I use a long pin, or my unpicker, and sit for a happy half hour doing a 
mindless job. (Like getting the knots out of a piece of string, or putting 
all the long pins in one box, all the short pins in another. All very 
relaxing and soothing jobs!)

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Costuming myths - pointy shoes
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>From: "Sablerose" <tayla@sablerose.net>
>I saw a man in a pair a couple of weeks ago wearing a pair where the toe
>extended about 3-4 inches out, narrowing and curving slight up.
>He was the manager of a shoe store, so this must be a hot new trend.

I believe winkle-pickers are making a bit of a comeback....

Marc


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths - pointy shoes
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adele de Maisieres" <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
> Stacy?  Is this some kind of American edition of WNTW?

Yup! Didn't realize there was a non-American edition.  

-E House

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> (Like getting the knots out of a piece of string, or putting all the long 
> pins in one box, all the short pins in another. All very relaxing and 
> soothing jobs!)

Ah... or stringing beads on a cord, or sorting them by colour. Or making 
hems by hand. Or ironing huge quantities of new fabric.

I love mindless jobs :-) Well... when I can watch TV or listen to the radio 
while I do them :-) 
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths - pointy shoes
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E House wrote:

>> Stacy?  Is this some kind of American edition of WNTW?
>
>
> Yup! Didn't realize there was a non-American edition. 


The original is from the BBC, with Trinny Woodall and Susannah Constantine.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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_Bridal Fashions: Victorian Era Origional Illustrations, Wedding Photos, Etiquette, Pattern for Doll's 1898 Bridal Gown_  by Helen Shannon.

This book is a compellation of mainly late 19th and early 20th century ladies magazines, with a few illustrations from advertisments and pics of extant garments thrown in.  There is also a complete pattern for a doll's dress, which has never been removed from the book.
I was given the book as a gift a few years ago, its not my period, so I have never used it.
I'm asking $20, which includes shipping.  If interested please email me off list.

-Katie

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Subject: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
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Hello,
I could not bear my curiosity any longer, so I did watch the trailer.  
While I did not find it entirely loathsome, I still must admit to a 
fondness and preference for Colin Firth as Darcy.

The "fine eyes" of Miss Elizabeth Bennett are lost in the ethereal 
beauty of Kieara Knightly and I cannot comprehend anyone saying about 
her beauty "that they would sooner find her Mother a wit."  Hello?  
That's Kieara Knightly you are calling un-lovely.

And as for Mr. Collins, he doesn't not even begin to have the delicious 
oiliness of the one from the BBC version.


Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Reunite Pangaea!

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
people.
- Giordano Bruno

Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
- Gunn

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
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Althea Turner wrote:

> The "fine eyes" of Miss Elizabeth Bennett are lost in the ethereal 
> beauty of Kieara Knightly and I cannot comprehend anyone saying about 
> her beauty "that they would sooner find her Mother a wit."  Hello?  
> That's Kieara Knightly you are calling un-lovely.

Er, well, it's supposed to be an unfounded remark-- although I suspect 
she's a bit brown and skinny for late 18th century tastes.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ISO millinary buckram/ stiffener??
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Unfortunately the crown has suffered being slightly crushed.

I *could* try to re-stiffen the backing, but it is badly degraded and very bent.

Would fine weave cross stich fabric with many layers of thined glue work?

I am the bride and going nuts with all of the minute details!!!! All of the big details were easy.... Now to find a good cheap local florist.
Katheryne

------------- Original Message ---------------
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
Sometimes crinoline was used instead of buckram; If you really need the buckram to keep the shape that's a bit different. 
I only have the very heavy buckram and black crinoline in my stash. I could send you some of the heavy but it might be TOO heavy.
Contact me off list. You may need the regular weight buckram, which I don't have. Maybe someone else can help you?

And sometimes you can restiffen the buckram. Let me know if you want some instruction on that - very simple to do, tiresome for others to read.
Are you the bride?
LynnD

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cleaning velcro (tm)
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How about using a bit of the same side of the velcro, and stroking it 
across the cruddy bit? (I'm assuming you're referring to the hookie side 
and not the loopie side.) I do something similar to clean the 
recalcitrant wool from my wool cards (use one to clean the other...it's 
called "stripping," IIRC).  The trick is to make sure that the hooks on 
both pieces are pointed in the same direction, like this:
/  /
/  /
/  /
/  /

and NOT like this:
/  \
/  \
/  \
/  \

Does that make any sense? (sorry for the bad ascii art).
--sue

Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> I know that y'all know just about everything ....
> 
> Is there a way to get that junk out of velcro (tm)?  The one side attracts
> *everything*
>

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Subject: Re: Soothing jobs Re: [h-cost] cleaning velcro (tm)
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If I need something soothing and relatively mindless, I'll do dishes 
(nice in winter because my hands like the heat), or I'll knit something, 
or spin.  I absolutely loathe hand hemming ;o( .  Reorganizing a 
bookshelf or my racks of CDs is also nice.
Oh, and then there's always working in the garden, season allowing....
--sue

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

>> (Like getting the knots out of a piece of string, or putting all the 
>> long pins in one box, all the short pins in another. All very relaxing 
>> and soothing jobs!)
> 
> 
> Ah... or stringing beads on a cord, or sorting them by colour. Or making 
> hems by hand. Or ironing huge quantities of new fabric.
> 
> I love mindless jobs :-) Well... when I can watch TV or listen to the 
> radio while I do them :-) _______________________________________________
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costuming myths
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 20:40:50 -0400
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Learn to breathe like singers and babies do, from the belly, by expanding 
your belly instead of pushing your breasts outward. You won't be able to 
take quite as big a breath as when you're not wearing a corset, but it 
shouldn't be too constricting. Also, you can make your corset out of 
something that stretches slightly, like linen.

> So what should I do if I have nothing much to support, but wear a corset 
> with my best 1640s attire to try to create the right look? It doesn't 
> reach to my waist, but as I have no spare flesh on my torso, my ribs are 
> unavoidably constricted so that I can't take a deep breath. 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  7 20:43:49 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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In a message dated 6/7/2005 2:14:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Have you  seen the trailer of the new Pride and Prejudice?
The time is set to  1795.
How do you think the costumes are?



Not bad. But they seem awfully....grey. Y'know, dull. But it's hard to tell  
from just the trailer.
 
I was struck at how many of the lines are EXACTLY the same as in the  
miniseries that A&E and the BBC did. They must be lifted right from the  pages of the 
novel.
 
BTW....that miniseries is WONDERFUL and very well  costumed.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  7 20:51:43 2005
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In a message dated 6/7/2005 4:42:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

To me it  looks as if there are some ladies who still wears 1780ies fashions, 
This i  think is realistic. I can imagine how slow fashion changes in small  
villages, and especially mature ladies, would not dare to change to the  new 
high waisted fashion.



True....but Judi Dench plays, I think, Lady De Bourgh, who I think would be  
right at the height of fashion, though sensible, not 15 years  behind.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  7 20:56:57 2005
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In a message dated 6/7/2005 6:14:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ladyadele@paradise.net.nz writes:

You're  not thinking of the Dashwoods in Sense and Sensibility, are you?   
They're definitely more in the area of genteel poverty, with only £500  
per annum to support three adults and a little  girl.




But that is where they END UP after the father [who had money] dies. I  think 
they might have saved some things from when they had money....not just  
suddenly gone poor in every respect.
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Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2005 14:34:09 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> 
>In a message dated 6/7/2005 6:14:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
>ladyadele@paradise.net.nz writes:
>
>You're  not thinking of the Dashwoods in Sense and Sensibility, are you?   
>They're definitely more in the area of genteel poverty, with only £500  
>per annum to support three adults and a little  girl.
>
>
>But that is where they END UP after the father [who had money] dies. I  think 
>they might have saved some things from when they had money....not just  
>suddenly gone poor in every respect.
>  
>

They don't have a heck of a lot beyond personal posessions, and that's 
all they're really entitled to.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hennin veils Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 23:03:29 -0400
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hennin veils Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)


> Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1133706072.86bb55@thibault.org> wrote
> >Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> >
> >> Actually, while draping the veil over the whole hennin (i.e. pointy
hat) was
> >> more common there is evidence for veils dangling from the tip too. See
this
> >> page http://members.fortunecity.com/cadieuxx/burgundy3.html the
pictures
> >> showing veils dangling from the tip are about halfway down the page.
> >
> >I belive that most of those have veils that run along the cone snugly,
> >and then fall off at the end, giving the appearance of just at the tip.
> >You can see some light colored tracings at the front of the cones which
> >may be folded "cuffs" on the veils, and some of them show the veil
> >continuing over the forehead -- notably the fourth and sixth on that
> >line on that page.
> >
> >It's possible that the others hang just from the tip, but I'd be
> >willing to put money against it.  Larger versions of the images would
> >give us better information.
> >
> I have tried this (not in a totally period context - my work colleagues
> made me a big cone hennin for my leaving present, half-filled with
> chocolates, and I undertook to wear it on my last day!) (without the
> chocolates!!) What I found was that, even with a very light veil, as
> near to transparent as I could get, when you have that much length
> there's still quite a bit of weight to it.  Attaching it to the point
> would make it extremely difficult to balance the cone, but when it is
> draped over the whole length it works.
>
> Jean
> -- 
> Jean Waddie


Somewhere in my picture stash, there is a painting of a lady with a sheer
veil draped in such a manner over her hat, but it starts quite low on her
forhead. Tinkering around with a piece of fabric, straight pins, and my
truncated hennin, I found that this makes the entire thing sit *very*
securely on your head. You could easily let a large amount of fabric hang
from the back of the hat this way, because of the extra security of the
fabric on the forhead holding the hat on.

Sheridan


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: historical TV series?
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Dawn,

I think you're seeing previews for "Into the West" which will be a 6 
installment series/miniseries this summer.  It is produced by Steven 
Spielberg.  I'm looking forward to at least checking it out.

Sandy

>Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 13:56:58 -0500
>From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>Subject: [h-cost] new historical tv series?
>
>Sometime over the weekend while I was travelling I saw a preview or an
>ad for what I think was a new US TV series -- a family drama set in
>American Colonial times. Unfortunately, I can't remember the details of
>where or what I saw in the airports, on billboards, or late night
>channel surfing on hotel cable tv. Does anyone here know what I'm
>talking about? It might be a movie or a mini-series, but I'm pretty sure
>it was TV because the thought of historical TV drama caught my
>attention. I'd love to find more info on the program, whatever it was.
>
>Dawn

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hennin veils Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Tuesday 07 June 2005 4:59 pm, Jean Waddie wrote:
[snip]
> I have tried this (not in a totally period context - my work colleagues
> made me a big cone hennin for my leaving present, half-filled with
> chocolates, and I undertook to wear it on my last day!) (without the
> chocolates!!) What I found was that, even with a very light veil, as
> near to transparent as I could get, when you have that much length
> there's still quite a bit of weight to it.  Attaching it to the point
> would make it extremely difficult to balance the cone, but when it is
> draped over the whole length it works.

Now that I think of it, the hennins I've seen with the veil on the tip of the 
cone feature much shorter veils than the over the length draped veils.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 20:56:38 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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At 9:48 AM +1200 6/8/05, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
>I don't think you can generalise from that. I knew a girl in high 
>school in the 1980s who was 5'0" and had an 18" waist.  That doesn't 
>indicate that people were smaller in the 1980s, thogh.

As I understand it, the whole "people were smaller back then" myth 
comes mostly from trying to extrapolate backwards from the wrong data.

If I recall correctly, *lower-class* people *were* smaller in the 
mid-19th century than most people are today, mostly (as has been 
said) due to poor nutrition.

However, people sometimes then go on to assume that smaller body size 
is a continuing trend the further back in history you go, and it's 
clearly not.

Rather, the 19th century seems to have shown a decided "dip" in the 
heights of people who weren't in the comfortable or upper classes, 
compared to (say) the 16th or the 13th century. The speculation is 
that this is likely due to the mass movement of people into cities, 
where the effective earning power of an ordinary laborer was no 
higher than back on the farm, _and_ a lot less fresh or nutirious 
food was available or affordable.

People such as our beloved late-Victorian ancestors, who certainly 
_wished_ to believe they were living in an age of progress, also 
proceeded to look for evidence that people were smaller in the Middle 
Ages, and of course found some -- while not finding, or sometimes 
ignoring, any evidence that would indicate otherwise. This would also 
explain why it always seems to be the same few pieces of evidence 
that are trotted out to "explain" the supposed trend.
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 21:51:30 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: nature (waws Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair)
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At 12:12 PM -0500 6/7/05, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>Quoting Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>:
>
>><snip> There is one scene where she actually <gasp!> removes all her clothes
>>and takes a dip in a local pond, but it's presented as something she does
>>because she is a dreamy, poetic sort of person who loves nature (unlike
>>everyone else in the Middle Ages of course ;) rather than out of any thought
>>of actual cleanliness.
>>>
>><snip>
>>Well yeah, everyone else hated nature coz it was out to kill them, nature is
>>frost and snow and sunburn and disease. only people who live far away from
>>nature like the thought of being close to nature.:)
>
>You know, there's still a lot of truth in that statement.  I was leading a
>group of children on a hike in the Smoky Mountains National Park.  The kids
>who were "afraid" of being Out In The Woods were the ones that lived in
>Gatlinburg (the town^H^H^H^HTourist-Trap) that's right next to the park!

True, but to assume (as the author in this case does) that no one in 
the Middle Ages ever voluntarily stopped to smell a flower, listen to 
birdsong, or enjoy a spring morning does take it a bit far :) Nature 
to a farmer can certainly be untrustworthy, uncomfortable and 
sometimes disastrous, but it can also be sweet and beautiful, and 
there are certainly medieval comments preserved indicating that quite 
ordinary people acknowledged both aspects.
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  8 00:56:07 2005
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice


>
> In a message dated 6/7/2005 2:14:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
> Have you  seen the trailer of the new Pride and Prejudice?
> The time is set to  1795.
> How do you think the costumes are?
>
>
>
> Not bad. But they seem awfully....grey. Y'know, dull. But it's hard to
tell
> from just the trailer.
>
> I was struck at how many of the lines are EXACTLY the same as in the
> miniseries that A&E and the BBC did. They must be lifted right from the
pages of the
> novel.
>
> BTW....that miniseries is WONDERFUL and very well  costumed.

The BBC miniseries followed _very_ closely to the text of the book, in some
scenes it's almost like a book on tape.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adele de Maisieres" <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice


> Althea Turner wrote:
>
> > The "fine eyes" of Miss Elizabeth Bennett are lost in the ethereal
> > beauty of Kieara Knightly and I cannot comprehend anyone saying about
> > her beauty "that they would sooner find her Mother a wit."  Hello?
> > That's Kieara Knightly you are calling un-lovely.
>
> Er, well, it's supposed to be an unfounded remark-- although I suspect
> she's a bit brown and skinny for late 18th century tastes.
>
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres

Actually there's quite a few references in the book to the fact that Jane
(the oldest) is the prettiest of the sisters and the rest are sortof
standard and don't have anything in particular to make them stand out in a
crowd. I think it's supposed to be accurate in that she's not a beauty,
she's a bit pretty but doesn't have any sort of stand out beauty to really
catch your eye.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2005 17:04:42 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Chris Laning wrote:

> People such as our beloved late-Victorian ancestors, who certainly 
> _wished_ to believe they were living in an age of progress, also 
> proceeded to look for evidence that people were smaller in the Middle 
> Ages, and of course found some -- while not finding, or sometimes 
> ignoring, any evidence that would indicate otherwise. This would also 
> explain why it always seems to be the same few pieces of evidence that 
> are trotted out to "explain" the supposed trend.


That is an interesting point, one that I wasn't really aware of.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
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On Tuesday, June 7, 2005, at 09:59 PM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Adele de Maisieres" <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
>> Althea Turner wrote:
>>
>>> The "fine eyes" of Miss Elizabeth Bennett are lost in the ethereal
>>> beauty of Kieara Knightly and I cannot comprehend anyone saying about
>>> her beauty "that they would sooner find her Mother a wit."  Hello?
>>> That's Kieara Knightly you are calling un-lovely.
>>
>> Er, well, it's supposed to be an unfounded remark-- although I suspect
>> she's a bit brown and skinny for late 18th century tastes.
>>
>> -- 
>> Adele de Maisieres
>
> Actually there's quite a few references in the book to the fact that 
> Jane
> (the oldest) is the prettiest of the sisters and the rest are sortof
> standard and don't have anything in particular to make them stand out 
> in a
> crowd. I think it's supposed to be accurate in that she's not a beauty,
> she's a bit pretty but doesn't have any sort of stand out beauty to 
> really
> catch your eye.
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole

*smiles* Which is why I have a hard time believing Kiera Knightly in 
the role.  She's far too pretty.

>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Stop Continental Drift!

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I used to like untangling yarn or embroidery floss.  Now I weed my flower 
beds to get rid of stress.  In the winter I crochet scarves... repetitive 
work that doesn't require a lot of thinking.  I also like to redraw 
embroidery or sewing patterns.  Typing books is my latest past-time.

Ironing a soothing job... LOL!  I leave that work to my husband.  If ironing 
is soothing to anyone, they can iron my 30 ft. long curtains that we wash at 
Christmas and summer time.  I'll make sure they are wadded up really good, 
and mail them to you!  <<<evil grin>>>

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
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>>>
>>>
>>>>The "fine eyes" of Miss Elizabeth Bennett are lost in the ethereal
>>>>beauty of Kieara Knightly and I cannot comprehend anyone saying about
>>>>her beauty "that they would sooner find her Mother a wit."  Hello?
>>>>That's Kieara Knightly you are calling un-lovely.
>>>
>>>Er, well, it's supposed to be an unfounded remark-- although I suspect
>>>she's a bit brown and skinny for late 18th century tastes.
>>>
>>>--
>>>Adele de Maisieres
>>
>>Actually there's quite a few references in the book to the fact that Jane
>>(the oldest) is the prettiest of the sisters and the rest are sortof
>>standard and don't have anything in particular to make them stand out in a
>>crowd. I think it's supposed to be accurate in that she's not a beauty,
>>she's a bit pretty but doesn't have any sort of stand out beauty to really
>>catch your eye.
>>Elizabeth
>>--------------------------------------------
>>Elizabeth Walpole
>
>*smiles* Which is why I have a hard time believing Kiera Knightly in the 
>role.  She's far too pretty.

That, of course, is a matter of opinion!

Suzi


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I have a question for those of you who know more than me about Victorian trivia (that includes every last one of you, I guess ;))â€¦ 

I have to play the governess of a rich English family in 1861... and I am unfortunately deeply ignorant about that period. What is such a character suppose to wear ? For example, should I wear crinoline or is it reserved to the higher class ? Does an employee wear several dresses a day ? Are there colors more appropriate ( such as darker colors, black maybe ) ?
 
Thank you everyone,
Mathilde
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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> Tight lacing was far less common than is popularly imagined.  The most
> common range of sizes for corsets produced in Great Britain was waist
> sized 18-30 inches, which would have covered natural waist sizes from
> about 19 to 35 inches.

One of my favourite quotes can be found in Fashion and reality (reprinted by
Dover as Victorian and Edwardian Fashion: a Photographic survey.)

"A distinction should be made between actual and corset measurements,
because stays as ordinarily worn do not meet in the back. Young girls,
especially, derive intense satisfaction from proclaiming the diminuative
size of their corset. Many purchase 18 and 19 inch stays, who must leave
them open 2, 3 and 4 inches."
E.M ward & Co. put out a booklet with that in it. And was apparently quoted
in The Dress Reform Problem, Bradford, 1886.

Valerie Steele discusses the various issues around tightlacing in a few
books. Fashion and Eroticism is actually really good, more lieka  series of
essays dealing with what the corset meant to different groups and what we
get to read about now can be distorted by choice of source etc.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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michaela wrote:

>Many purchase 18 and 19 inch stays, who must leave
> them open 2, 3 and 4 inches."

Heh.  That's like buying a D size bra for a B size gal and stuffing it, 
and saying you're a "D".

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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My understanding of the position of the governess in a Victorian
household was one that straddled classifications in a rather
uncomfortable way. The governess was generally a woman of good breeding
who was 'economically disadvantaged' and hired to teach the children of a
middling age in a wealthy household.  In other words, she didn't deal
with the very young children (nanny or nursery maid) or the teenage boys
(off to public school) but taught the children from about age 6 or 7 thru
11 or 12 for boys and up thru 15 or 16 for girls (who typically didn't
get shipped off to public school). The position of the governess was
roughly equivalent to the housekeeper- a very high position- but she
could be treated more as member of the family. That's why governesses
tend to have affairs with married male employers or to end up marrying
widowed employers. They are hired but not exactly servants.....

As to what she would wear, she would be expected to dress well to reflect
well on her employers but not too well as she was still technically a
servant. She would probably wear a hoop skirt of modest dimensions and
darkish somewhat conservative clothing.....of course for 1861, almost any
fashion was relatively conservative! Her clothes might be fairly
fashionable as she was setting the example for the young ladies of the
house. She would probably wear one dress during the day while teaching
and another in the evening for dinner (especially if she ate at the
family's table). She would probably have a traveling dress so that she
could accompany the children if they needed to go somewhere and she might
have a somewhat fancier 'ball gown' so that she could chaperone the young
girls at local festivities (holiday dances) although once the girls had
formally 'come out' they would no longer be under the care of the
governess. If the governess was a widow of good family, she would be
expected to follow the conventions for a widow- if she was a young woman
of good family who had yet to marry, she might wear a somewhat more
lively and fashionable clothes because she might still make a good
marriage. If she was an older spinster, she would probably just wear
modest clothing but not necessarily black. Brown was considered very
proper and serviceable. 

I'm sure there are other folks on the list who can give you more
specifics.


Karen
Seamstrix




On Wed,  8 Jun 2005 11:45:40 +0200 (CEST) Rhianna <liara@wanadoo.fr>
writes:
> I have a question for those of you who know more than me about 
> Victorian trivia (that includes every last one of you, I guess 
> ;))… 
> 
> I have to play the governess of a rich English family in 1861... and 
> I am unfortunately deeply ignorant about that period. What is such a 
> character suppose to wear ? For example, should I wear crinoline or 
> is it reserved to the higher class ? Does an employee wear several 
> dresses a day ? Are there colors more appropriate ( such as darker 
> colors, black maybe ) ?
>  
> Thank you everyone,
> Mathilde
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ISO millinary buckram/ stiffener??
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Well, that's it really. I cut out several copies of the required shape, laid them in a stack on a non-absorbent surface and painted them with diluted white glue (Drea said "Elmer's glue" but as we don't have that brand in the UK I asked the list what it was and found an equivalent). When nearly dry it can be peeled off the surface.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> emeraldepona@yahoo.com 07/06/2005 19:34 >>>
Info please :) !!!!
 
Thank you,
 
Chris G.

Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:
When I wanted to make a new stomacher a few years ago, like you I couldn't find anything nearly stiff enough in the shops. Drea Leed told me (via this list ) how to make my own buckram by painting several thicknesses of canvas with dilute glue (the white kind used for sticking paper). I've made two stomachers in this way and it works very well.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ISO millinary buckram/ stiffener??
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Thanks Kate!

Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:Well, that's it really. I cut out several copies of the required shape, laid them in a stack on a non-absorbent surface and painted them with diluted white glue (Drea said "Elmer's glue" but as we don't have that brand in the UK I asked the list what it was and found an equivalent). When nearly dry it can be peeled off the surface.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> emeraldepona@yahoo.com 07/06/2005 19:34 >>>
Info please :) !!!!

Thank you,

Chris G.

Kate M Bunting wrote:
When I wanted to make a new stomacher a few years ago, like you I couldn't find anything nearly stiff enough in the shops. Drea Leed told me (via this list ) how to make my own buckram by painting several thicknesses of canvas with dilute glue (the white kind used for sticking paper). I've made two stomachers in this way and it works very well.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: historical TV series?
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Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:

> Dawn,
> 
> I think you're seeing previews for "Into the West" which will be a 6 
> installment series/miniseries this summer.  It is produced by Steven 
> Spielberg.  I'm looking forward to at least checking it out.
> 
> Sandy

Sandy, that's it! Thanks. I saw a poster with the leading man, and 
mistook his clothing for an earlier period.


Oooh! It starts this Friday!


http://alt.tnt.tv/itw/#



Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] 1861 Governess
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In my research of the dress of the working class at that time, all my sources 
specifically stated that working women wore crinolines. As for the changing, 
I'm sorry but I can't help there :) I don't remember the source (it's somewhere 
in my collection, I can dig if you need), but a woman's research into gowns of 
the time stated the majority of dresses were solid colours, followed by thin 
stripes, then prints.

Hope this helps,
Laura

-- 
How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to 
improve the world.
-Anne Frank
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2005 13:24:27 +0000
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IIRC Kiera is beautiful for "our" time.  But, also IIRC, the beautiful in that time is blonde, blue eyes and oval face.

Please feel free to correct me if I've got this wrong...it's not my period, just a fan of books about this period.  

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> On Tuesday, June 7, 2005, at 09:59 PM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote: 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Adele de Maisieres" 
> >> Althea Turner wrote: 
> >> 
> >>> The "fine eyes" of Miss Elizabeth Bennett are lost in the ethereal 
> >>> beauty of Kieara Knightly and I cannot comprehend anyone saying about 
> >>> her beauty "that they would sooner find her Mother a wit." Hello? 
> >>> That's Kieara Knightly you are calling un-lovely. 
> >> 
> >> Er, well, it's supposed to be an unfounded remark-- although I suspect 
> >> she's a bit brown and skinny for late 18th century tastes. 
> >> 
> >> -- 
> >> Adele de Maisieres 
> > 
> > Actually there's quite a few references in the book to the fact that 
> > Jane 
> > (the oldest) is the prettiest of the sisters and the rest are sortof 
> > standard and don't have anything in particular to make them stand out 
> > in a 
> > crowd. I think it's supposed to be accurate in that she's not a beauty, 
> > she's a bit pretty but doesn't have any sort of stand out beauty to 
> > really 
> > catch your eye. 
> > Elizabeth 
> > -------------------------------------------- 
> > Elizabeth Walpole 
> 
> *smiles* Which is why I have a hard time believing Kiera Knightly in 
> the role. She's far too pretty. 
> 
> > 
> Althea Turner 
> *** althea@alfalfapress.com 
> *** http://www.alfalfapress.com 
> 
> Stop Continental Drift! 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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I think that tight lacing then was like 6 inch heels now.

Many woman occasionally do (such as going out on a special occasion or
such) but very few is it an everyday fashion.

Onaree

On 6/7/05, Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:

> 
> Tight lacing was far less common than is popularly imagined.  The most 
> common range of sizes for corsets produced in Great Britain was waist 
> sized 18-30 inches, which would have covered natural waist sizes from 
> about 19 to 35 inches. 
> 
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres
> 
> -----------------------------
> Quot homines, tot sententiae.
> ----------------------------- 
> 
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On Wednesday, June 8, 2005, at 12:46 AM, Suzi Clarke wrote:
>>
>> *smiles* Which is why I have a hard time believing Kiera Knightly in 
>> the role.  She's far too pretty.
>
> That, of course, is a matter of opinion!
>
> Suzi
>
>
Ok, I must not be articulating myself well enough.   Lemme try one last 
time.

Kiera Knightly is *generally* considered a pretty girl using *today's* 
aesthetic criteria.  Of course, that is a matter of opinion.  While one 
may not think she has aesthetic value, one cannot deny that "in the 
mainstream" she has been assigned such value in today's world.   Her 
success as an actress has relied more on her looks than her acting 
ability.  *cough*

Miss Elizabeth Bennett was fine enough looking, but *generally* not 
acknowledged as a "beauty."  That role fell upon her older sister, 
Jane.  Yes, the ideal was blonde, peaches and cream, etc, and that was 
Jane.  At one point in conversation, Elizabeth even told Jane that 
since Jane had all the beauty on the family, it fell on her to marry 
well and raise the fortunes of all.

So, it *my opinion* that Miss Knightly was a poor choice in casting, 
but one rooted chiefly in modern Hollywood sense and sensibility, and 
not one vaguely true to the Jane Austen book.

I have been utterly and thoroughly (and quite happily) spoiled by the 
BBC version.  Were I new to the various film versions, and not at all 
familiar with Austen's books, the new version probably wouldn't bother 
me so much.  I usually accept movies for what they are; someone else's 
version of truth through the lens of fantasy.  And a really good excuse 
for eating incredibly over-priced and extremely bad for you popcorn. :D

YMMV

Althea


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Martha McCain Simplicity Pattern out
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 On the Simplicity website for their Fall Preview patterns is a new
Martha McCain Civil War era dress pattern.  It is #4510 and appears to
be a more formal "visiting gown." It appears to be deep violet(on my
screen), possibly in imitation of the then newly popular aniline dyes.


Cindy Abel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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In a message dated 6/7/2005 10:34:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ladyadele@paradise.net.nz writes:

>You're  not thinking of the Dashwoods in Sense and  Sensibility, are you?   
>They're definitely more in the area  of genteel poverty, with only £500  
>per annum to support three  adults and a little  girl.
>
>
>But that is where they  END UP after the father [who had money] dies. I  
think 
>they might  have saved some things from when they had money....not just   
>suddenly gone poor in every respect.
>   
>

They don't have a heck of a lot beyond personal possessions,  and that's 
all they're really entitled to.






You are of course correct. Clothes are personal possessions, no?....and  
we're talking the film's costumes here, are we not? I don't see that they  take 
much else to the cottage with them. Indeed, each character has a "closet".  You 
see the same gowns over and over, with different hats and things. In fact I  
thought Mrs. Dashwood should have had more changes. But the girls stick  with 
one evening gown and about 5 or 6 day gowns....most quite simple but of  lovely 
fabrics. I remember one Emma Thomson wears that is plain a snuff but a  
beautiful plaid silk. She wears it [among other scenes] when she tells Mr.  Farris 
he has be offered a post as curate....I think. I'm remembering these  things 
from seeing the film a while ago.
 
It is true the whole film has a clean, fresh look. Now the film of  
"Persuasion" is different. Things are worn and the men have 5 o'clock shadows  and 
such. I did like those clothes a lot too. But not as crisp and clean a  S&S.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  8 11:19:19 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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	<p05100305becc1d8807a5@[209.165.44.106]>
Subject: Re: nature (waws Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair)
Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2005 17:18:13 +0200
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Hi,
We have an old song in Denmark origin from 15th century and it phraises the 
first day of spring, when the valley gets warm and wonderfull after the long 
winter.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: nature (waws Re: [h-cost] Re: not washing hair)


> At 12:12 PM -0500 6/7/05, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>>Quoting Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>:
>>
>>><snip> There is one scene where she actually <gasp!> removes all her 
>>>clothes
>>>and takes a dip in a local pond, but it's presented as something she does
>>>because she is a dreamy, poetic sort of person who loves nature (unlike
>>>everyone else in the Middle Ages of course ;) rather than out of any 
>>>thought
>>>of actual cleanliness.
>>>>
>>><snip>
>>>Well yeah, everyone else hated nature coz it was out to kill them, nature 
>>>is
>>>frost and snow and sunburn and disease. only people who live far away 
>>>from
>>>nature like the thought of being close to nature.:)
>>
>>You know, there's still a lot of truth in that statement.  I was leading a
>>group of children on a hike in the Smoky Mountains National Park.  The 
>>kids
>>who were "afraid" of being Out In The Woods were the ones that lived in
>>Gatlinburg (the town^H^H^H^HTourist-Trap) that's right next to the park!
>
> True, but to assume (as the author in this case does) that no one in the 
> Middle Ages ever voluntarily stopped to smell a flower, listen to 
> birdsong, or enjoy a spring morning does take it a bit far :) Nature to a 
> farmer can certainly be untrustworthy, uncomfortable and sometimes 
> disastrous, but it can also be sweet and beautiful, and there are 
> certainly medieval comments preserved indicating that quite ordinary 
> people acknowledged both aspects.
> -- 
> ____________________________________________________________
>
> O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
> +     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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Hi
No i did mean the Bennets and i think that they were spoiled daughters and 
had many fashionable dresses. And then i ment that they were portrayed 
richer than the novel.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adele de Maisieres" <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice


> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> Strange, i think i replyed to your mail, but it didnt get trough, so i 
>> try once more:
>>
>> I think that excactly this point, that the mature ladies in the film 
>> wears 1780ies styles, makes it more realistic.
>> Remember that fashion changed very slowly in the small country towns, and 
>> didnt the previous film, wich i love and treassure, make the Bennet 
>> family richer than it is in the novel?
>
>
> If you mean the 1996 BBC TV production, then no, I don't think so.  The 
> Bennets are comfortable enough to have one manservant and a housekeeper, 
> keep a nice house, and be reasonably well dressed, but poor enough that 
> their horses have to double duty on the farm and drawing their carriage, 
> they don't spend any time in town, and there's no real money to provide a 
> dowry for any of the girls.  There's also a hint in that they economise by 
> not heating every room in winter. I think that about jives with the book.
>
> You're not thinking of the Dashwoods in Sense and Sensibility, are you? 
> They're definitely more in the area of genteel poverty, with only £500 per 
> annum to support three adults and a little girl.
>
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres
>
> -----------------------------
> Quot homines, tot sententiae.
> ----------------------------- 
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
I got a note from Ian again. Unfortunately he was not allowed to take any 
photos of the stays found in the brick wall, but he has told me that they 
were very early 1625-45 and very similar to the Manchester red stays.
Ian also told me that the stays he examined was better laced with cross 
lacing in stead of cable lacing. They were off the shoulders and would suit 
the high waisted look of the 1620's 40's. They are very straight and not at 
all like the shapely cone of the 18th. century.
Ian told me that the museum in Manchester is online, and that there are 
pictures of the red stays, but i tryed to find them, but did not succes in 
seing any pictures at all.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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     Does anyone do 1610?  E-mail me off list if you prefer.  I don't have
any specific questions at the moment, but would like to hear
impressions, opinions, indiosyncrasies of the fashion of the time,
particularly Paris.  :-)

     Thanks!
     -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century stays
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> Hi,
> I got a note from Ian again. Unfortunately he was not allowed to take any
> photos of the stays found in the brick wall, but he has told me that they
> were very early 1625-45 and very similar to the Manchester red stays.
> Ian also told me that the stays he examined was better laced with cross
> lacing in stead of cable lacing. They were off the shoulders and would
> suit
> the high waisted look of the 1620's 40's. They are very straight and not
> at
> all like the shapely cone of the 18th. century.
> Ian told me that the museum in Manchester is online, and that there are
> pictures of the red stays, but i tryed to find them, but did not succes in
> seing any pictures at all.

Which museum is it in?  Maybe the Gallery of Costume?  There seems to be a
problem with that website.  Maybe it was online before but they are having
technical difficulties now?

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century stays
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At 20:49 08/06/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi,
>I got a note from Ian again. Unfortunately he was not allowed to take any 
>photos of the stays found in the brick wall, but he has told me that they 
>were very early 1625-45 and very similar to the Manchester red stays.
>Ian also told me that the stays he examined was better laced with cross 
>lacing in stead of cable lacing. They were off the shoulders and would 
>suit the high waisted look of the 1620's 40's. They are very straight and 
>not at all like the shapely cone of the 18th. century.
>Ian told me that the museum in Manchester is online, and that there are 
>pictures of the red stays, but i tryed to find them, but did not succes in 
>seing any pictures at all.
>
>Bjarne


Thanks so much for the information Bjarne. That is interesting as I have 
the Manchester stays dated at 1700. Maybe we are not talking about the same 
stays. I will see if I can find my flyer from Ian, and write to him myself.

Suzi


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to dress an 1861 governess...
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If I could suggest an excellent book titled "The Unnatural History of the
Nanny" by Jonathan Gathorne-Hardy. It covers governesses and the like in
enough detail to give you some help. 

 



Bice

-------Original Message-------

My understanding of the position of the governess in a Victorian

household was one that straddled classifications in a rather

uncomfortable way. The governess was generally a woman of good breeding

who was 'economically disadvantaged' 



<snipped>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century stays
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Hi,
Thanks, yes i think there must be a problem.
It is just that i am dying to se that red pair of stays, i dont recall i 
have seen these before.
Is it in one of the costume patterns books?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century stays


>
>> Hi,
>> I got a note from Ian again. Unfortunately he was not allowed to take any
>> photos of the stays found in the brick wall, but he has told me that they
>> were very early 1625-45 and very similar to the Manchester red stays.
>> Ian also told me that the stays he examined was better laced with cross
>> lacing in stead of cable lacing. They were off the shoulders and would
>> suit
>> the high waisted look of the 1620's 40's. They are very straight and not
>> at
>> all like the shapely cone of the 18th. century.
>> Ian told me that the museum in Manchester is online, and that there are
>> pictures of the red stays, but i tryed to find them, but did not succes 
>> in
>> seing any pictures at all.
>
> Which museum is it in?  Maybe the Gallery of Costume?  There seems to be a
> problem with that website.  Maybe it was online before but they are having
> technical difficulties now?
>
> Diana
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Velcro,  and pointy shoes
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> >
> >>Is there a way to get that junk out of velcro (tm)?  The one side attracts
> >>*everything*
> >
> >Clothilde used to sell a little wire brush dingus for just this 
> >purpose.  If you have carding combs, it's much the same, but 
> >smaller.  It's also like the little wire brush for suede-sole dance shoes.
> 
**or a steel wire brush about the size of a toothbrush.
> 
> >I saw a man in a pair a couple of weeks ago wearing a pair where the toe
> >extended about 3-4 inches out, narrowing and curving slight up.
> >He was the manager of a shoe store, so this must be a hot new trend.
> 
> I believe winkle-pickers are making a bit of a comeback....
> 
> Marc

**Is this like cockroach killers?  Don't know what a winkle is, but pointy shoes make it easier to get into corners ;-)
Julie

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elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net wrote:

>IIRC Kiera is beautiful for "our" time.  But, also IIRC, the beautiful in that time is blonde, blue eyes and oval face.
>
>Please feel free to correct me if I've got this wrong...it's not my period, just a fan of books about this period.  
>
>  
>
Not necessarily blonde or blue-eyed I don't think, but fair with rosy 
cheeks, slim or plump but not skinny.

Jane Austin describes one of the Bennet sisters (flatteringly) as a 
stout, well grown girl, while Anne de Burgh is "thin and insignificant".

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> No i did mean the Bennets and i think that they were spoiled daughters 
> and had many fashionable dresses. And then i ment that they were 
> portrayed richer than the novel.
>
>> If you mean the 1996 BBC TV production, then no, I don't think so.  
>> The Bennets are comfortable enough to have one manservant and a 
>> housekeeper, keep a nice house, and be reasonably well dressed, but 
>> poor enough that their horses have to double duty on the farm and 
>> drawing their carriage, they don't spend any time in town, and 
>> there's no real money to provide a dowry for any of the girls.  
>> There's also a hint in that they economise by not heating every room 
>> in winter. I think that about jives with the book. 
>

Well, the bits I'm referring to _are_ in the book (other than the 
heating one).  And I don't recall that the girls have especially many 
clothes in the BBC series.  Their day dresses certainly make multiple 
appearances.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: [h-cost] New Queen Elizabeth I Series
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This morning a new B.B.C. (U.K.) series was trailered on "Breakfast"
television.  It is to be a new dramatized biography of Queen Elizabeth I.

There was a short item about the filming of her coronation, and the series
won't be ready to show until early next year.  They described it as a really
big production, to be filmed over three months, no expense spared - and the
costumes do most of the story-telling.

Cast members mentioned were:-
Queen Elizabeth - Anne Marie Duff
Kat Ashley - Tara Fitzgerald
Lettice Knowles - Sienna Guillory
Duke of Norfolk - Kevin McKidd
Earl of Sussex - Dexter Fletcher
and about 1600 extras.

Although what I saw of the coronation looked most impressive to me,
unfortunately I know nothing about the period, so my opinion is worth
nothing to you.  I'll just trust the BBC and hope for the best.  At least it
will be something to look forward to in the dreary days of January/February.

Best wishes,
Linda Walton,
(High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Queen Elizabeth I Series
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At 00:22 09/06/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>This morning a new B.B.C. (U.K.) series was trailered on "Breakfast"
>television.  It is to be a new dramatized biography of Queen Elizabeth I.
>
>There was a short item about the filming of her coronation, and the series
>won't be ready to show until early next year.  They described it as a really
>big production, to be filmed over three months, no expense spared - and the
>costumes do most of the story-telling.
>
>Cast members mentioned were:-
>Queen Elizabeth - Anne Marie Duff
>Kat Ashley - Tara Fitzgerald
>Lettice Knowles - Sienna Guillory
>Duke of Norfolk - Kevin McKidd
>Earl of Sussex - Dexter Fletcher
>and about 1600 extras.
>
>Although what I saw of the coronation looked most impressive to me,
>unfortunately I know nothing about the period, so my opinion is worth
>nothing to you.  I'll just trust the BBC and hope for the best.  At least it
>will be something to look forward to in the dreary days of January/February.


This is what I was asked to work on earlier in the year. I made some ruffs 
for background characters, and delivered them to Angels, who were making 
the costumes. The production manager showed me a few of the costumes in the 
workroom, although not close up. There was at least one corset on a stand, 
probably taken from Hunnisett, as it looked very, very like. Also a few 
heavy brocade gowns. The fabrics looked pretty good, but I would not say 
they were authentic, exactly. Although the ruffs were not made in an 
authentic manner, on camera they will look good, and I guess the clothes 
should do too. I did meet the designer, for a second or two, but have no 
idea of her name!

At the same time one of the independent channels if filming an older Queen 
Elizabeth, starring Helen Mirren. There was a photo in this week's "Radio 
Times". A very interesting garment was being worn - no further comments 
till I have seen more than one picture!!

Suzi


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>Now the question is: What does Frick mean by the use of the term 
>"jersey"  and what is the characteristics of the cloth that make it 
>"stretchable"? To most of us this would imply a knit textile, but I cannot 
>find supporting documentation (though we do know that knitted stockings 
>were made in England by the time of Elizabeth I). Perhaps some variation 
>on a twill is intended...

I made a pair of waist-high footed hose for someone using thin 
loosely-woven wool cut on the bias.  My only guess is that "jersey" refers 
to cloth woven in Jersey, not to a knit.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adele de Maisieres" <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice


> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
> > No i did mean the Bennets and i think that they were spoiled daughters
> > and had many fashionable dresses. And then i ment that they were
> > portrayed richer than the novel.
> >
> >> If you mean the 1996 BBC TV production, then no, I don't think so.
> >> The Bennets are comfortable enough to have one manservant and a
> >> housekeeper, keep a nice house, and be reasonably well dressed, but
> >> poor enough that their horses have to double duty on the farm and
> >> drawing their carriage, they don't spend any time in town, and
> >> there's no real money to provide a dowry for any of the girls.
> >> There's also a hint in that they economise by not heating every room
> >> in winter. I think that about jives with the book.
> >
>
> Well, the bits I'm referring to _are_ in the book (other than the
> heating one).  And I don't recall that the girls have especially many
> clothes in the BBC series.  Their day dresses certainly make multiple
> appearances.
>
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres

I think they are quite well off, they obviously aren't really rich but Mr.
Bennet's estate provides them with enough money to afford quite a few
luxuries, IIRC there's a suggestion in the book that Mrs Bennett is quite
good at spending her husband's money and the only thing that keeps them
within their budget is the fact that Mr Bennett enjoys the quiet country
life and doesn't feel the need to go to London or hold balls etc. When Mr.
Bennett dies they won't have much money but until then they have the money
to hold an occasional dinner party (though it doesn't happen often because
Mr. Bennett doesn't like company) and buy a new frock (or a bonnet) every so
often. There is a comment made after Lydia's wedding that giving her £100 a
year would leave him scarcely £10 a year worse off once he takes into
account what she spends.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice
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Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

>
>I think they are quite well off, they obviously aren't really rich but Mr.
>Bennet's estate provides them with enough money to afford quite a few
>luxuries...
>

Quite-- the Bennets' financial worries come from the fact that Mr. 
Bennet's estate is entailed on his cousin, Collins-- not from a want of 
money for day-to-day living.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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> Ironing a soothing job... LOL!  I leave that work to my husband.  If 
> ironing is soothing to anyone, they can iron my 30 ft. long curtains that 
> we wash at Christmas and summer time.  I'll make sure they are wadded up 
> really good, and mail them to you!  <<<evil grin>>>

Well, if they have folds at the top, then forget it. But if they're the flat 
kind, maybe with loops or a sleeve, then I'd happily iron them! I love 
ironing... just as long as there's no fiddly bits... I HATE ironing shirts. 
Especially the ones with darts :-) 
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2005 01:34:12 +0000
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Yes, I think you've got the 'perfect woman' description  right.  I would only add is that the shape of the face was an item as well.  Oval, I think, was the preferred shape?  As far as hair color, I'm not sure.. Bright red hair was not known to be a trait for beauty at this time, right?  More towards the 'classical' hairdos (as they thought of it at that time) and that should be blonde or at least fair haired?

Learning more is such fun!!!
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net wrote: 
> 
> >IIRC Kiera is beautiful for "our" time. But, also IIRC, the beautiful in that 
> time is blonde, blue eyes and oval face. 
> > 
> >Please feel free to correct me if I've got this wrong...it's not my period, 
> just a fan of books about this period. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> Not necessarily blonde or blue-eyed I don't think, but fair with rosy 
> cheeks, slim or plump but not skinny. 
> 
> Jane Austin describes one of the Bennet sisters (flatteringly) as a 
> stout, well grown girl, while Anne de Burgh is "thin and insignificant". 
> 
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres 
> 
> ----------------------------- 
> Quot homines, tot sententiae. 
> ----------------------------- 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
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On Wednesday 08 June 2005 9:34 pm, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net wrote:
> Yes, I think you've got the 'perfect woman' description  right.  I would
> only add is that the shape of the face was an item as well.  Oval, I think,
> was the preferred shape?  As far as hair color, I'm not sure.. Bright red
> hair was not known to be a trait for beauty at this time, right?  More
> towards the 'classical' hairdos (as they thought of it at that time) and
> that should be blonde or at least fair haired?

I suppose that depends on what you mean by "bright red."  You're probably 
right that copper-colored hair or reddish brown wasn't much valued.  On the 
other hand, I remember seeing tons of Dutch 15th c painting with strawberry 
blonde Madonnas with fine, long, wavy hair.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  8 22:29:04 2005
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2005 02:28:11 +0000
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Yes, the bright copper and reddish brown are what I was referring to.  
I would not call strawberry blonde a bright red...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> On Wednesday 08 June 2005 9:34 pm, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net wrote: 
> > Yes, I think you've got the 'perfect woman' description right. I would 
> > only add is that the shape of the face was an item as well. Oval, I think, 
> > was the preferred shape? As far as hair color, I'm not sure.. Bright red 
> > hair was not known to be a trait for beauty at this time, right? More 
> > towards the 'classical' hairdos (as they thought of it at that time) and 
> > that should be blonde or at least fair haired? 
> 
> I suppose that depends on what you mean by "bright red." You're probably 
> right that copper-colored hair or reddish brown wasn't much valued. On the 
> other hand, I remember seeing tons of Dutch 15th c painting with strawberry 
> blonde Madonnas with fine, long, wavy hair. 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond 
> 
> "So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by 
> entropy. I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going 
> to brush its teeth. So there."-- Rob Landley 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2005 19:12:42 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths - pointy shoes
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>Hey, those are coming back into style. I saw a woman in dressy heels this 
>weekend, with extended points on the front of the shoe. The toe was 
>obviously designed to be long and thin, it wasn't just a narrow shoe she 
>had squeezed into.

Um, these have been around so long that they're showing up in thrift stores 
already.  as in, they're a few seasons old.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
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On Wednesday 08 June 2005 10:28 pm, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net wrote:
> Yes, the bright copper and reddish brown are what I was referring to.
> I would not call strawberry blonde a bright red...

I would, but clearly I'm the one out of step here, judging by those strawberry 
blonde Madonnas....  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tuxedo/tails pattern needed
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 00:34:08 -0400
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I need to find a pattern for a formal tuxedo jacket, the kind with tails,
preferably sized small (or alterable) to fit my sister, bust 34.5", waist
29", hips 35" or thereabouts. I need to make her a "formal flannel" and
can't resist the idea of it being VERY formal.  But I cannot seem to find
anyone who sells a tux pattern.  Anyone have any ideas?
-Megan




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>I need to find a pattern for a formal tuxedo jacket, the kind with tails,
>preferably sized small (or alterable) to fit my sister, bust 34.5", waist
>29", hips 35" or thereabouts. I need to make her a "formal flannel" and
>can't resist the idea of it being VERY formal.  But I cannot seem to find
>anyone who sells a tux pattern.  Anyone have any ideas?

Not even Vogue?


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Velcro,  and pointy shoes
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A winkle is a shellfish, traditionally bought cooked at the seaside and pulled out of their shells with a pin. Pointy shoes were called winkle-pickers in the late 1950s-early 60s.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> jtknits@jtknits.cts.com 08/06/2005 20:44 >>> wrote:

>> I believe winkle-pickers are making a bit of a comeback....
>> 
>> Marc

>**Is this like cockroach killers?  Don't know what a winkle is, but pointy shoes make it >easier to get into corners ;-)
>Julie

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But the 19th century isn't the 15th! Certainly in 18th-19th century literature "red-haired" seems to be intended as synonymous with "plain".

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> cathy@thyrsus.com 09/06/2005 03:13 >>>
>I suppose that depends on what you mean by "bright red."  You're probably 
>right that copper-colored hair or reddish brown wasn't much valued.  On the 
>other hand, I remember seeing tons of Dutch 15th c painting with strawberry 
>blonde Madonnas with fine, long, wavy hair.


-- 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] fabric for sale
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Greetings,

I am in the process of listing a bunch of fabric I have for sale on these 
two Yahoo groups.  The fabrics are silks, wools, and two unusual velvets.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/swapsell/

and

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumetrader/

If you aren't already a member of swapsell, go ahead and sign up, just be 
sure to mention the fact that you are a member of H-costume since the group 
is limited to members of this list only.

If you are interested but aren't on the list, please feel free to email me 
(dannw@mn.rr.com) with inquiries.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tuxedo/tails pattern needed
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In a message dated 6/9/2005 12:37:30 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
megan@benchite.com writes:

I need  to find a pattern for a formal tuxedo jacket, the kind with  tails,
preferably sized small (or alterable) to fit my sister, bust 34.5",  waist
29", hips 35" or thereabouts. I need to make her a "formal flannel"  and  
Burda used to sell a tuxedo pattern, but a tailcoat is something  else.  
 

can't resist the idea of it being VERY formal.  But  I cannot seem to find
anyone who sells a tux pattern.  Anyone have any  ideas?
-Megan



A tuxedo and tails are two different things.  Burda used to have a  tuxedo 
pattern.  However, for a tail coat, check out Jean Hardy equestrian  
patterns--the shadbelly coat looks close to what you want, and it comes as small  as a 
size 6.
 

_http://www.jeanhardypatterns.com/patterns.htm_ 
(http://www.jeanhardypatterns.com/patterns.htm) 
 
Ann Wass

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Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 22:22:46 +1000
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Martha McCain Simplicity Pattern out
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Where can you buy this pattern online? I can't find it for sale online 
anywhere.
Aylwen (who wants to make one for herself!)

On Thursday, June 9, 2005, at 12:49 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:

>
>
>  On the Simplicity website for their Fall Preview patterns is a new
> Martha McCain Civil War era dress pattern.  It is #4510 and appears to
> be a more formal "visiting gown." It appears to be deep violet(on my
> screen), possibly in imitation of the then newly popular aniline dyes.
>
>
> Cindy Abel
>
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If it's a "Fall Preview" pattern, it may not yet be out in the stores....
--sue

Aylwen & John wrote:

> Where can you buy this pattern online? I can't find it for sale online 
> anywhere.
> Aylwen (who wants to make one for herself!)
> 
> On Thursday, June 9, 2005, at 12:49 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:
> 
>>
>>
>>  On the Simplicity website for their Fall Preview patterns is a new
>> Martha McCain Civil War era dress pattern.  It is #4510 and appears to
>> be a more formal "visiting gown." It appears to be deep violet(on my
>> screen), possibly in imitation of the then newly popular aniline dyes.
>>
>>
>> Cindy Abel
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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> 
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In a message dated 6/8/2005 10:31:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net writes:

> Yes, the bright copper and reddish brown are what I was referring to.  
> I would not call strawberry blonde a bright red...
> 
> 

And of course these are huge generalities. It may be that in, say, Greece or 
Italy where dark hair is prominent, bright copper red would have the men 
flocking to admire its exotic beauty. But we're talking England, so such a color 
may be looked down upon as too Irish or Scottish...horrors!
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Velcro,  and pointy shoes
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>From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
>A winkle is a shellfish, traditionally bought cooked at the seaside and 
>pulled out of their shells with a
>pin. Pointy shoes were called winkle-pickers in the late 1950s-early 60s.

Thank you, I missed the message this is responding to.

And yes, that's *ahem* certainly the most common definition, although 
considering some of the weirder looking medieval shoes...
:)


Marc


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In a message dated 6/8/2005 3:22:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
jacquelinejbump@gmail.com writes:

> If I could suggest an excellent book titled "The Unnatural History of the
> Nanny" by Jonathan Gathorne-Hardy. It covers governesses and the like in
> enough detail to give you some help. 
> 

That sounds interesting.

I was gonna say, If you want to see it all in action, check out the film 
"Angels and Insects". Yes, some of the costumes are indeed stylized, but the 
Governess' [a major character] clothes are not and her style is contrasted 
realistically, I think, with her "betters".
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Kate wrote:
>A winkle is a shellfish, traditionally bought cooked at the seaside and 
>pulled out of their shells with a pin. Pointy shoes were called 
>winkle-pickers in the late 1950s-early 60s.

Here, they were called lock-pickers and cockroach killers (because they 
could get into the corners).
               -Helen/Aidan

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And let's not forget Jane Eyre, of course.

Laura

-- 
How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to 
improve the world.
-Anne Frank
www.thehungersite.com





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Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 17:34:45 -0400
From: Jacqueline Johnson <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to dress an 1861 governess...
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Except that Jane was well before 1861 and being the graduate and
former teacher of a charity school her dress would have been even
plainer than the normal dress of her era.
 
-------Original Message-------
And let's not forget Jane Eyre, of course.
 
Laura

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Subject: [h-cost] Byzantine/late Roman costume
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Does anyone know if these two books are worth the paper they're printed on?
 
Costumes of the Greeks and Romans by Thomas Hope
Ancient Greek, Roman & Byzantine Costume by Mary G. Houston
 
I'm looking for early Byzantine specifically, but I'll settle for late Roman or what they call "romanesque" if that's all I can get. I can't figure out why there are so many Byzantine personas in my local SCA group when I can't find ANY decent reference material on them. I'm starting to think it's just an excuse to sew on forty pounds' worth of beads.
 
Other suggestions of books on the period would be welcome, too.
 
Thanks, guys.
Tea Rose
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "historic costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 23:06:29 +1000
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Subject: [h-cost] bustle or natural form era movies
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Hi everyone,
I was trying to explain the natural form period to a non costumer recently
and I often resort to 'think of [XYZ movie]' or sometimes [xyz figure famous
enough that you can picture them e.g. Marie Antoinette] when I'm explaining
what sort of style I'm talking about. But I couldn't think of a movie set in
the 1870s-80s. Can anybody else think of one? I realise bustle styles are
probably not going to be terribly popular as the idea of a big backside is
abhorrent to modern fashion, but the natural form period has a lot in common
with modern aesthetics, emphasising long lines and a tall slim figure,
without the need to distort actual fashions like they do with regency (which
almost fits the modern aesthetic so they tinker a little so only the
costumers notice the difference and their actresses look 'good' on the
screen) I suppose westerns are usually set about this time but I can't think
of any recent ones (and there's very little room for fashionable ladies when
you're focussing so heavily on men out in the wilderness)
So is there one I've missed or do the directors just skip those two decades?
Elizabeth (still procrastinating from assignments, I've got a week to write
2500 words after all *g*)
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: [h-cost] Costume notes 1662: cloaks and ruffians
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Excerpt from http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1662/06/08/index.php

Home, and observe my man Will to walk with his cloak flung over his 
shoulder, like a Ruffian, which, whether it was that he might not be 
seen to walk along with the footboy, I know not, but I was vexed at it; 
and coming home, and after prayers, I did ask him where he learned that 
immodest garb, and he answered me that it was not immodest, or some such 
slight answer, at which I did give him two boxes on the ears, which I 
never did before, and so was after a little troubled at it.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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It starts tonight on CBS...  8:00-9:30 ET... The Cut:

Iconic design mogul Tommy Hilfiger hosts this new reality series in search of the next great American designer. Hilfiger's rags-to-riches journey is the basis for the competition in which 16 style-savvy contestants will find themselves literally living Hilfiger's life in fast-forward. Competing in a series of grueling style assignments that test their talent, business acumen, sales and marketing expertise, social skills, resourcefulness and style IQs, the winner will have the opportunity to design his or her own collection under the Tommy Hilfiger label. 

http://www.cbs.com/primetime/the_cut/

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bustle or natural form era movies
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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"Life with Father" should be about right, shouldn't it, if they did it in the correct period?  I've never actually watched it, as I'm afraid it'll ruin the book for me (one of my favorites), but I know a lot of people love it.  You'll be a far better judge of its period accuracy than I, but I would think it would be worth a look.
 
KP


Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au> wrote:
Hi everyone,
I was trying to explain the natural form period to a non costumer recently
and I often resort to 'think of [XYZ movie]' or sometimes [xyz figure famous
enough that you can picture them e.g. Marie Antoinette] when I'm explaining
what sort of style I'm talking about. But I couldn't think of a movie set in
the 1870s-80s. Can anybody else think of one? I realise bustle styles are
probably not going to be terribly popular as the idea of a big backside is
abhorrent to modern fashion, but the natural form period has a lot in common
with modern aesthetics, emphasising long lines and a tall slim figure,
without the need to distort actual fashions like they do with regency (which
almost fits the modern aesthetic so they tinker a little so only the
costumers notice the difference and their actresses look 'good' on the
screen) I suppose westerns are usually set about this time but I can't think
of any recent ones (and there's very little room for fashionable ladies when
you're focussing so heavily on men out in the wilderness)
So is there one I've missed or do the directors just skip those two decades?
Elizabeth (still procrastinating from assignments, I've got a week to write
2500 words after all *g*)
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  9 19:35:41 2005
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Hi everyone,

>I was trying to explain the natural form period to a non costumer recently
>and I often resort to 'think of [XYZ movie]' or sometimes [xyz figure famous
>enough that you can picture them e.g. Marie Antoinette] when I'm explaining
>what sort of style I'm talking about. But I couldn't think of a movie set in
>the 1870s-80s. Can anybody else think of one?
>

If I recall correctly, the 1974 _Daisy Miller_ (a superb film and an 
excellent rendition of Henry Jame's novel) was costumed in the natural 
form period.  I haven't seen it in a while though.

> but the natural form period has a lot in common
>with modern aesthetics, emphasising long lines and a tall slim figure,
>without the need to distort actual fashions like they do with regency (which
>almost fits the modern aesthetic so they tinker a little so only the
>costumers notice the difference and their actresses look 'good' on the
>screen) 
>
I agree.

Fran Grimble
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
Two books of natural form era patterns!
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>  
>
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From: Laura Morlock <lbmorloc@artsmail.uwaterloo.ca>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to dress an 1861 governess...
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I was referring to her status in relation to the family. The life of a 
governess didn't change much in 100 years, even if the fashions did. Just a 
good classic of the day.

-- 
How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to 
improve the world.
-Anne Frank
www.thehungersite.com





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bustle or natural form era movies
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I recommend a Merchant-Ivory film "The Bostonians". some great clothes in 
that. Some obviously real. And Scorsese's "Age of Innocence".
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On Thursday 09 June 2005 4:10 am, Kate M Bunting wrote:
> But the 19th century isn't the 15th! Certainly in 18th-19th century
> literature "red-haired" seems to be intended as synonymous with "plain".

You raise a good point.  I simply don't know whether the 18th-19th century  
belief that red-haired = "plain" is a historical relic of earlier sentiment 
against red hair, or whether it arose from something else entirely.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Subject: new belly styles was Re: [h-cost] bustle or natural form era movies
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 01:16:24 +0000
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Springing off of the comment about big backsides, a trend I've been noticing among the late teens and early 20's set around the town (Univ. of  WA):  Hip hugger jeans, a cropped top, and a lovely view of not just the navel, but (to my wondering eyes) a liberal amount of 'baby fat' (for lack of a better phrase) proudly displayed just above the waistband of the jeans.  It actually doesn't look 'gross' to me.  At least they don't look anorexic.  

Another trend I'm seeing is for gals to wear a skirt and a pair of 'pants' under it.  Today I saw a young lady wearing a micro-mini black knit ruffled skirt over a pair of raggedy well worn flared jeans.

Is this the new grunge?

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

 Can anybody else think of one? I realise bustle styles are 
> probably not going to be terribly popular as the idea of a big backside is 
> abhorrent to modern fashion, but the natural form period has a lot in common 
> with modern aesthetics, emphasising long lines and a tall slim figure, 
> without the need to distort actual fashions like they do with regency (which 
> almost fits the modern aesthetic so they tinker a little so only the 
> costumers notice the difference and their actresses look 'good' on the 
> screen) I suppose westerns are usually set about this time but I can't think 
> of any recent ones (and there's very little room for fashionable ladies when 

> Elizabeth Walpole 
> Canberra Australia 
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au 
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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tuxedo/tails pattern needed
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 21:26:06 -0400
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Thanks for the suggestion.  I looked up Jean Hardy on the web, plus I went
to G-Street today and found that Folkwear has a frock coat, plus the prince
Charlie jacket in the kilt pattern is not too far off, so I think I may use
those.  There is also a Suitability shadbelly that is pretty close.  So,
somewhere between these three is the jacket I have in mind.... unless I find
an actual tails pattern before I get around to making it.
-Megan



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Subject: new belly styles was Re: [h-cost] bustle or natural form era movies
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When I was in HS (grad in 90) I often wore my denim mini over leggins
so I'm guessing it's just the new version of a retro look. Fashion
always returns. Bustles are also in among the goth crowd (I sell a
bustle skirt a month on average in nearly every fabric out there
mainly plastic) the more lavish the better with train is even better.

Bice
 
Another trend I'm seeing is for gals to wear a skirt and a pair of
'pants' under it.  Today I saw a young lady wearing a micro-mini black
knit ruffled skirt over a pair of raggedy well worn flared jeans.
 
Is this the new grunge?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bustle or natural form era movies
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It's not a movie, but an HBO series which just wrapped its second season - 
"Deadwood".  There are a lot of female characters, of several classes, some 
of whom are recently arrived from back east, and therefore fashionably 
dressed.  If the series is not running in Australia, you can go to the 
website -
http://www.hbo.com/deadwood/?ntrack_para1=leftnav_category0_show1    where 
you can see lots of pictures.   If you click on "behind the scenes", you can 
access a special feature with the costume designer.
As for movies, try "The Age of Innocence" (1993) with Daniel Day-Lewis and 
Michelle Pfeiffer.
             -Helen/Aidan



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
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Part of the 19th-century prejudice against red hair--before the 
Pre-Rapaelites, who brought it into style--was the preference for very 
fair skin.  Redheads tend to get freckles.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>I simply don't know whether the 18th-19th century  
>belief that red-haired = "plain" is a historical relic of earlier sentiment 
>against red hair, or whether it arose from something else entirely.
>
>
>
>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Redheads
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All the posts on redheads made me think about one of the recent
prejudices I was reading about with redheads. I wish I could recall
where however. It had to do with that it was felt that red heads were
a sign that the parents had copulated during the woman's menses
showing a lack of restrain that was possibly passed on to the child.
In the case of the daughter this could be horrible. The one reference
had to do of course with Elizabeth I.

Bice

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redheads
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Of course, Elizabeth didn't actually have red hair. She had a reddish
blonde that was the same as her father's.....and I don't believe that
anyone ever accused either Henry VII or Elizabeth of York of being
profligate....later in her reign she often wore wigs of a less subtle
color. For her true hair color, see the portrait of her attributed to
Scrots where she is an adolescent girl- it's closer to gold than
red.....not that there's anything wrong with red hair, it's just a common
misconception that Elizabeth had red hair and it makes me cranky when
people attempt to cast aspersion on her without really knowing anything
about her or her time. (That's not you, it's the author of whatever it
was you read.....)


Karen
Seamstrix





On Thu, 9 Jun 2005 22:14:53 -0400 Jacqueline Johnson
<jacquelinejbump@gmail.com> writes:
> All the posts on redheads made me think about one of the recent
> prejudices I was reading about with redheads. I wish I could recall
> where however. It had to do with that it was felt that red heads 
> were
> a sign that the parents had copulated during the woman's menses
> showing a lack of restrain that was possibly passed on to the child.
> In the case of the daughter this could be horrible. The one 
> reference
> had to do of course with Elizabeth I.
> 
> Bice
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>On Thursday 09 June 2005 4:10 am, Kate M Bunting wrote:
>  
>
>>But the 19th century isn't the 15th! Certainly in 18th-19th century
>>literature "red-haired" seems to be intended as synonymous with "plain".
>>    
>>
>
>You raise a good point.  I simply don't know whether the 18th-19th century  
>belief that red-haired = "plain" is a historical relic of earlier sentiment 
>against red hair, or whether it arose from something else entirely
>  
>

I don't think it was even red hair as such that was  all tha 
objectionable, but the freckles that often go with it were.

Adele d'M

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Subject: [h-cost] re:redheads
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To be honest the author cast nothing on her. It was an in general
comment about how society of the time up until today had that
prejudice against redheads and Elizabeth had been included amongst
them. I saw her hair as more a red gold myself in most of the
paintings and descriptions of the time and depending on her wig and
choice for the day. (or glint of light)



Of course, Elizabeth didn't actually have red hair. She had a reddish
blonde that was the same as her father's.....and I don't believe that
anyone ever accused either Henry VII or Elizabeth of York of being
profligate....later in her reign she often wore wigs of a less subtle
color. For her true hair color, see the portrait of her attributed to
Scrots where she is an adolescent girl- it's closer to gold than
red.....not that there's anything wrong with red hair, it's just a common
misconception that Elizabeth had red hair and it makes me cranky when
people attempt to cast aspersion on her without really knowing anything
about her or her time. (That's not you, it's the author of whatever it
was you read.....)
 
 
Karen
Seamstrix

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Byzantine/late Roman costume
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On Thursday 09 June 2005 6:19 pm, tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> Does anyone know if these two books are worth the paper they're printed on?
>
> Costumes of the Greeks and Romans by Thomas Hope


The edition I have of Hope is a Dover reprint of his 1812 book.  The book is 
roughly 99% redrawings of figures from Greek and Roman pottery and/or 
sculpture, as well as a few miscellaneous images from other ancient cultures. 
The drawings have one-line captions that tell the reader next to nothing.  
Further, Hope does not identify the source of most of his images, and only 
provides a general summary of costume of the period which is clearly his 
reporting in words the trends he perceived in  the images he redrew.  I 
haven't looked at the Hope book it for awhile and classical Greece/Rome is 
not my main period, so I will make no representations about the accuracy of 
his information or the quality of his redrawing.  However, I know he's not 
what you're looking for, because his book has nothing Byzantine in it; his 
cutoff date appears (based on my memory of the images) to be somewhere during 
the early days of the Roman Republic, more than 300 years before the period 
we think of as early Byzantine arguably began.  


> Ancient Greek, Roman & Byzantine Costume by Mary G. Houston

This one isn't bad, and definitely covers what I consider "early 
Byzantine" (though I'm not really sure what you mean by that description).  I 
have a ex-library second edition copy that is dated 1947.  Like Hope's book, 
Houston's book is illustrated entirely with redrawings and she gives at best 
only general dating (e.g. "5th C A.D.") for most images, but unlike Hope she 
identifies where most of her sources came from so the inspired reader can 
track them down elsewhere and thus learn more about them.  Insofar as I'm 
familiar with the original source, her redrawings aren't bad.   Her 
"Byzantine" section also includes a chapter on Eastern Orthodox church 
vestments (though that may not be of much interest or use to you).  

Also like Hope, 99% of what Houston says about the costumes she writes about 
is based upon her study of period artwork.  However, Houston has a better eye 
for interpreting costume-related art and figuring out what kind of garments a 
drawing or sculpture is meant to depict than do most costume historians who 
attempt the same feat.  In general, when Houston makes a generalization about 
what was often or always worn in period, or why it was worn, she is wrong as 
often as she's right, but when she focuses on a particular artwork and how 
the items of clothing shown therein drapes and how it might have been made, 
her advice is, IMHO, quite good.  Houston also likes to provide diagrams of 
how she believes the clothing was constructed based on her examination of the 
art, and these look good to me, though I can't speak with authority here 
since I haven't tried to reconstruct anything on the basis of the drawings or 
diagrams in this book.  She also includes images of representative patterns 
and accessories, which you will find useful also (though they'd be better 
with more precise dating than Houston supplies).

The biggest catch in using Houston is that you may need to know more about the 
period before you can tell which drawing fits the time frame of your chosen 
persona, since her dating is so vague.

So, overall, I'd say pick up a copy of Houston if you can get it at a 
reasonable price, but forget about Hope.  I know that Houston's book on 
Mesopotamian costume was recently reprinted by Dover in a cheap paperback 
edition, and this one may have as well--check dover.com to see.  If not, you 
can often find old hardback copies fairly cheap ( I think I paid $25 for mine 
before shipping) on the websites of on-line used book dealers or even on 
Ebay. 



> I'm looking for early Byzantine specifically, but I'll settle for late
> Roman or what they call "romanesque" if that's all I can get. 

"Late Roman" (say, 300-400 CE) and "early Byzantine (say, 400-600 CE) are 
pretty similar in appearance and tend to shade into each other.  "Romanesque" 
is neither late Roman or, for that matter, early Byzantine.  It's used to 
describe an art and architecture style that's characteristic, not of 
Byzantium, but of  northern Europe rather later in time than what I'd 
consider "early Byzantine."  The Wikipedia claims that the "Romanesque" 
period is 11thc-12thc, though I'd always thought it started a bit earlier 
(around 800).  Anyway, here's Wikipedia's entry on "Romanesque."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romanesque

> I can't 
> figure out why there are so many Byzantine personas in my local SCA group
> when I can't find ANY decent reference material on them. 

I can.  Two words:  minimal tailoring.  :-)  It's a lot easier to sew beads on 
a dalmatic (wide sleeved Byzantine style of tunic) than it is to fit a proper 
Tudor or Elizabethan gown, but you can go as crazy decorating the Byzantine 
if you wish.


> I'm starting to 
> think it's just an excuse to sew on forty pounds' worth of beads.

Yes, you could be right.  See above.  Are the Byzantines in your group 
enthusiastic embroiderers and/or beaders outside of SCA activities?


> Other suggestions of books on the period would be welcome, too.

I don't know of any books off hand on Byzantine costume/culture of the period 
other than SCA pamphlets which may be out of print and/or less than 
authoritative.  I suggest you look for a good book or two on Byzantine art, 
with plenty of illustrations (color if you can find such a treasure). 

No wait, I take that back.  I have heard of a scholar called Anna Muthenius 
(or something like that) who supposedly has written the definitive studies of 
Byzantine textiles, but the only copies I've ever seen of her works were on 
used book sites and going for over $250 apiece.  That's probably outside your 
budget (I know it's outside of mine) but if you track down the titles you can 
take a shot at getting them through interlibrary loan.

 In addition, consider looking up these websites:

The Basics of Byzantine Dress c. 1000 A.D--Exactly what the title implies.
http://www.gryph.com/byzantine/dress.htm

Levantia. This site concentrates more on Byzantine costume in and about the 
Levant, and includes material as late as the 13th century, but a lot of it is 
Early Period. Some Arab costume material as well.
http://www.levantia.com.au/


Good luck!



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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 > All the posts on redheads made me think about one of the recent
 > prejudices I was reading about with redheads. I wish I could recall
 > where however. It had to do with that it was felt that red heads were
 > a sign that the parents had copulated during the woman's menses
 > showing a lack of restrain that was possibly passed on to the child.
 > In the case of the daughter this could be horrible. The one reference
 > had to do of course with Elizabeth I.
 >
 > Bice

Hahahahaha!  And both sides of my family are loaded with redheads! 
They'll find this funny.
Michelle
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
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On Thursday 09 June 2005 10:06 pm, Lavolta Press wrote:
> Part of the 19th-century prejudice against red hair--before the
> Pre-Rapaelites, who brought it into style--was the preference for very
> fair skin.  Redheads tend to get freckles.

I should have remembered  that; thanks. (That may have been part of the 
medieval prejudice too, judging by the home remedies against freckling).


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: new belly styles was Re: [h-cost] bustle or natural form
	era movies
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At 01:16 10/06/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>Springing off of the comment about big backsides, a trend I've been 
>noticing among the late teens and early 20's set around the town (Univ. 
>of  WA):  Hip hugger jeans, a cropped top, and a lovely view of not just 
>the navel, but (to my wondering eyes) a liberal amount of 'baby fat' (for 
>lack of a better phrase) proudly displayed just above the waistband of the 
>jeans.  It actually doesn't look 'gross' to me.  At least they don't look 
>anorexic.
>
>Another trend I'm seeing is for gals to wear a skirt and a pair of 'pants' 
>under it.  Today I saw a young lady wearing a micro-mini black knit 
>ruffled skirt over a pair of raggedy well worn flared jeans.
>
>Is this the new grunge?
>
>--
>Slan go foill
>Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri


I don't know about the new grunge but in London those fashions are old hat. 
Jeans that are dyed and bleached to look old and dirty (!!) seem to be the 
new grunge. Torn is "in". Many of the ethnic minorities here wear skirts 
over trousers, and I don't mean shawar kameez type outfits.

Various bits of puppy fat are proudly on display in clothes - often 
tracksuits with baggy legs are worn low on the hips, and (whisper it ) 
underpants show above the waistband - so ugly.

And yesterday, going up to see the Star Wars movie, a blonde wearing a gold 
leather jump suit, split to the navel, with probably her bra exposed under 
it, got on the bus. Boy did I wish I had a gun - would have made a great 
trophy! "Unusual specimen of London Dress, 2005"!

I hate underwear as underwear but showing, straps of bras, 
knickers/panties/thongs exposed on fat backsides. Bring back decorum say I.

Suzi



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Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 23:21:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Byzantine/late Roman costume      Cheap books online
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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hello ladies,
< Much snippage>
 just for fun I checked my new favorite place for
cheap books- WalMart online.
I found:

 Ancient Greek, Roman & Byzantine Costume  
  Author:   Houston, Mary G.

List Price: $12.95
Our Price: $9.74

IN STOCK

Paperback, 182 pages, Dover
Pub. Date: Aug 2003, Publisher: Dover Pubns
ISBN: 0486426106, 
Description (from the publisher or distributor)
This meticulously researched and profusely illustrated
book includes 315 drawings based on renderings by
artists of the period to achieve utmost accuracy and
authenticity. Included are elaborate examples of
Aegean costume, Doric and Ionic styles of dress for
women, Greek and Roman armor, graceful and intricately
arranged Roman togas, the tunica--a roomy wide-sleeved
garment--and the pallium, a cloak-like garment. Ornate
vestments of the Eastern Orthodox Church and Byzantine
costumes are carefully described and portrayed as are
styles of hairdressing, jewelry, and other decorative
elements. Instructions and flat patterns showing the
cut of sample garments make it easy for costume
designers to reproduce period apparel. An excellent
reference for the history classroom, this volume will
be invaluable to costume historians and art students
interested in the development of representative art.
Unabridged republication of the edition published by
Adam & Charles Black, London, 1947. 315
black-and-white illustrations.


--- Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
wrote:

> On Thursday 09 June 2005 6:19 pm, tearoses@aol.com
> wrote:
> > Does anyone know if these two books are worth the
> paper they're printed on?
> >
> > 
> > 
> > > Ancient Greek, Roman & Byzantine Costume by Mary
> G. Houston
> 
> This one isn't bad, and definitely covers what I
> consider "early  Byzantine" by that description).
> Houston's book is illustrated entirely with
> redrawings and she gives at best  only general
dating (e.g. "5th C A.D.") for most images, but unlike
Hope she 
> identifies where most of her sources came from so
> the inspired reader can track them down elsewhere
and thus learn more about them. 
> 
>   Houston has a better eye 
> for interpreting costume-related art and figuring
> out what kind of garments a  drawing or sculpture is
meant to depict than do most costume historians who 
attempt the same feat. 
> > So, overall, I'd say pick up a copy of Houston if
> you can get it at a  reasonable price,   
> 
> 
> 
> 


		
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3013B599-D8E1-11D9-B75B-000393B11100@earthlydelights.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Martha McCain Simplicity Pattern out
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 11:53:27 +1000
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aylwen & John" <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Martha McCain Simplicity Pattern out


> Where can you buy this pattern online? I can't find it for sale online
> anywhere.
> Aylwen (who wants to make one for herself!)
>
I thought Simplicity sold them through their website? or is that just the 3
McCall's companies? Emailing Simplicity would be a good start, just tell
them you need it now and it isn't going to arrive in Australia for a while.
When you do buy it let me know I'm very tempted to try it out (I like the
skirt especially, though I could probably improvise that without a pattern)
and I'd like to have a look at the instructions sheet for more information.
Elizabeth (2 essays down 3 to go)
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Out of the depths of my PUFF file ("Perfectly Useless Facts & Figures), 
I dredge forth a vague memory of reading, more than once, about an old 
(as in medieval?) superstition about Judas Iscariot also having red 
hair, which adds additional...unluckiness...to the associations with the 
color.
--sue

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> On Thursday 09 June 2005 10:06 pm, Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
>>Part of the 19th-century prejudice against red hair--before the
>>Pre-Rapaelites, who brought it into style--was the preference for very
>>fair skin.  Redheads tend to get freckles.
> 
> 
> I should have remembered  that; thanks. (That may have been part of the 
> medieval prejudice too, judging by the home remedies against freckling).
> 
> 

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Subject: re: [h-cost] Byzantine/late Roman costume
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I was not terribly impressed by Mary G. Houston's.. but it's a bit better 
than Norris (I find Norris too unreliable). I haven't seen the Hope. 
There's a new book coming out that I've been waiting for:

Byzantine Dress : Representations of Secular Dress (The New Middle Ages)
by Jennifer L. Ball Hardcover: 256 pages. Palgrave Macmillan (September 15, 
2005) Language: English ISBN: 1403967008

another that I've been thinking about is

Ecclesiastical Dress in the Medieval Near East (Studies in Textile Costume 
History, Vol 1) by K.C. Innemee, Karel C. Innemee Hardcover: 300 pages. 
Brill Academic Pub (August 1, 1997) ISBN: 9004095489

Beth

At 08:30 PM 6/9/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2005 18:19:03 -0400
>From: tearoses@aol.com
>
>Does anyone know if these two books are worth the paper they're printed on?
>
>Costumes of the Greeks and Romans by Thomas Hope
>Ancient Greek, Roman & Byzantine Costume by Mary G. Houston
>
>I'm looking for early Byzantine specifically, but I'll settle for late 
>Roman or what they call "romanesque" if that's all I can get. I can't 
>figure out why there are so many Byzantine personas in my local SCA group 
>when I can't find ANY decent reference material on them. I'm starting to 
>think it's just an excuse to sew on forty pounds' worth of beads.
>
>Other suggestions of books on the period would be welcome, too.
>
>Thanks, guys.
>Tea Rose

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Us rredheads ain nothing but trouble..says my mom  well actually a lot of Mischief and a whole lot of fun....Says I! From one who had  the kind of rich Copper gold red hair that you can pick out in a crowd of redheads....  
 
Satine teh Sassy redhead... 



		
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From: Aurelia Rufinia <aureliarufinia@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Roman/Byzantine
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Status: RO

Hope isn't bad- I've done some side by sides with the
statues he drew from, and he's pretty accurate.  That
said, it's better to just go to the source if
possible.

Mostly I do Roman, so I go from art books and the
like.  _The World of Roman Costume_ is really quite
good for history, but I'm not very impressed with
their reconstruction techniques.

As far as Byzantine goes, I've done two, and one was
based off of the Theodora mosaic at Ravenna.  There
isn't a lot on early Byzantine clothing at all, and
less if you're not dressing like Royalty or a saint.  

What time period of PByzantine are you looking at,
specifically?

Aurelia

> 
> Does anyone know if these two books are worth the
> paper they're printed on?
>  
> Costumes of the Greeks and Romans by Thomas Hope
> Ancient Greek, Roman & Byzantine Costume by Mary G.
> Houston
>  
> I'm looking for early Byzantine specifically, but
> I'll settle for late Roman or what they call
> "romanesque" if that's all I can get. I can't figure
> out why there are so many Byzantine personas in my
> local SCA group when I can't find ANY decent
> reference material on them. I'm starting to think
> it's just an excuse to sew on forty pounds' worth of
> beads.
>  
> Other suggestions of books on the period would be
> welcome, too.
>  
> Thanks, guys.
> Tea Rose
> 
>

Baroness Aurelia Rufinia
House Iron Maiden, Barony of Carolingia, 
East Kingdom, Northshield Ex-Pat

"We're always fascinated when we find leg irons with no legs in them.  Who held the keys, sir?"


		
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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Byzantine/late Roman costume
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Muthenius concentrates on early silk textiles.. I haven't seen anything by 
her on costume, per se.  All I have is her collected papers: "Studies in 
Byzantine and Islamic Silk Weaving". As Carolyn said, the cut of Byzantine 
is quite simple, but the jewelry was most distinctive. I've been looking 
for a really good book on the jewelry. Any suggestions?

You may want to check out:
Women in Purple : Rulers of Medieval Byzantium by Judith Herrin. 320p 
(Orion 2001) ISBN 184212529X. Paperback DBBC $4.98

This is mostly bio and history but has a few illustrations.

Beth

At 02:42 AM 6/10/2005, you wrote:
>No wait, I take that back.  I have heard of a scholar called Anna Muthenius
>(or something like that) who supposedly has written the definitive studies of
>Byzantine textiles, but the only copies I've ever seen of her works were on
>used book sites and going for over $250 apiece.  That's probably outside your
>budget (I know it's outside of mine) but if you track down the titles you can
>take a shot at getting them through interlibrary loan.

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: bustle or natural form era movies
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>
>
>But I couldn't think of a movie set in
>the 1870s-80s. Can anybody else think of one?
>

Hi!

Another wonderful movie would be "Anna Karenina" by Bernard Rose with
Sophie Marceau as Anna.
Here are some pictures:
http://www.angelfire.com/mi3/greeneggsandham/anna.html

Veronika
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jun 10 11:22:58 2005
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Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 10:22:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Pattern company links was re: New Martha McCain Simplicity
 Pattern out
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Here is a page that I have had bookmarked for years now ....

http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/companylist.pl

it always has a good listing of urls of pattern companies, all of them!

Chiara


On Thu, June 9, 2005 8:53 pm, Elizabeth Walpole said:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aylwen & John" <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 10:22 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Martha McCain Simplicity Pattern out
>
>
>> Where can you buy this pattern online? I can't find it for sale
>> online
>> anywhere.
>> Aylwen (who wants to make one for herself!)
>>
> I thought Simplicity sold them through their website? or is that
> just the 3
> McCall's companies? Emailing Simplicity would be a good start, just
> tell
> them you need it now and it isn't going to arrive in Australia for a
> while.
> When you do buy it let me know I'm very tempted to try it out (I
> like the
> skirt especially, though I could probably improvise that without a
> pattern)
> and I'd like to have a look at the instructions sheet for more
> information.
> Elizabeth (2 essays down 3 to go)
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
>
> _______________________________________________
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>


Franchesca Havas
----------------------------------------

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I'd also like to suggest the Forsythe Saga (new version) with Gina
McKee. The clothing is simply AMAZING.

Bice

On 6/10/05, Veronika Liewald <v@bruin.at> wrote:
> >
> >
> >But I couldn't think of a movie set in
> >the 1870s-80s. Can anybody else think of one?

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Subject: [h-cost] Natural Form
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I made my sister's wedding dress in this era.  I
absolutely love this period!  For pics of how it
turned out, see here:

http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressFront.jpg
http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressBack.jpg
http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressSide.jpg

Go easy on me.  There's a lot of talent on this board
and I'm kind of intimidated.  ;)  I'm rather proud of
how the front of the bodice turned out but of COURSE I
wasn't able to be there on her wedding day to tell her
to "Put the BLASTED BOUQUET DOWN so we can get a good
shot of the bodice!"  D'oh!

Such is life.

As for movies, my favorite costume movie for this era
has to be the Sean Bean/Sophie Marceau version of Anna
Karenina.  The problem with this movie is it's
supposed to take place over a certain period of time
but the fasions never change, which is a HUGE no-no
for this era because it changed so rapidly over the
course of a decade.  But the good news is that means
we get a LOT of the natural form costumes to oggle at!
 Huzzah!

And I guess I'm definitely not trendy then because I
LOVE bustles (made my own wedding dress with one, in
fact...)  ;)  Three cheers for big bottoms!

;)


"Is there any hope, Gandalf? . . . For Frodo and Sam?"
"There never was much hope.  Just a fool's hope."

--Pippin and Gandalf, RETURN OF THE KING

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Have you seen "Monster-in-Law"?  Jennifer Lopez wears that when she's walking the dogs.  I thought it was a good idea.  I slipped on jeans under my work dress last night to add some warmth and dress down a work outfit.  I don't know about grunge.  Wouldn't the jeans have to be ripped? <G>

And speaking of ripped, can someone explain to me the prices they're getting for brand new jeans in the stores that I would make my kids throw in the trash?!!

Oh, and I'm double the twenty-something...;-)

Julie

----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> Another trend I'm seeing is for gals to wear a skirt and a pair of
> 'pants' under it.  Today I saw a young lady wearing a micro-mini black
> knit ruffled skirt over a pair of raggedy well worn flared jeans.
>  
> Is this the new grunge?

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"Portrait of a Lady", most recently with Nicole Kidman in 1996.




Dawn

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Very beautiful!

I too love this period but have never made a gown from the 1870s.....or the 
1880s for that matter.
Anyone doing a Ibsen play? I'm not busy now......
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Now that I think of it, there's a great film of Ibsen's _A Doll's House_ 
with natural form era costumes.  Not the one with Jane Fonda, but the 
one with Claire Bloom as Nora.

Fran
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>Very beautiful!
>
>I too love this period but have never made a gown from the 1870s.....or the 
>1880s for that matter.
>Anyone doing a Ibsen play? I'm not busy now......
>
>  
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Byzantine/late Roman costume
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I'm not familiar with Hope, but I'd recommend *not* using Houston. I can direct you to some near-primary sources, but the books are at home in Denver, and I'm in Wichita. I'll be happy to list citations (if others haven't already) later this weekend. 

There are some on-line resources as well, but most of them follow Houston, and therefor aren't so great. The SCA-Byzantine list on Yahoo! Groups has some good resources; sign up to the list to access them. If you want to do Middle Period, Tim Dawson's Levanita website is great. I don't have the URL handy, but if you Google it, it'll come right up. 

Eirene 


-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Does anyone know if these two books are worth the paper they're printed on? 
> 
> Costumes of the Greeks and Romans by Thomas Hope 
> Ancient Greek, Roman & Byzantine Costume by Mary G. Houston 
> 
> I'm looking for early Byzantine specifically, but I'll settle for late Roman or 
> what they call "romanesque" if that's all I can get. I can't figure out why 
> there are so many Byzantine personas in my local SCA group when I can't find ANY 
> decent reference material on them. I'm starting to think it's just an excuse to 
> sew on forty pounds' worth of beads. 
> 
> Other suggestions of books on the period would be welcome, too. 
> 
> Thanks, guys. 
> Tea Rose 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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That is, I think they were natural form rather than bustle era, it's 
been a while since I saw the film . . . but I remember I really liked 
the film.

Fran

Lavolta Press wrote:

> Now that I think of it, there's a great film of Ibsen's _A Doll's 
> House_ with natural form era costumes.  Not the one with Jane Fonda, 
> but the one with Claire Bloom as Nora.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Byzantine/late Roman costume
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Thanks Cathy, that's exactly the information I needed. I'll get the Houston book. I already have an SCA pamphlet, but it assumes that you know the difference between a dalmatica and a palla before you start.
 
Regarding Romanesque: I guess I was getting the term from a costuming book, I think it's Holkeboer, who calls the period immediately after Roman withdrawal "Romanesque." Your delineation of the general periods for Roman, Byzantine and Romanesque will help, too. I think part of my problem has been not really knowing which century I was talking about. Saying "Byzantine" is like saying "English," or "Russian;" it covers a huge period of time. Yet nobody seems to distinguish between early Byzantine and late Byzantine. Surely their costume changed over a period of more than a thousand years? Textile technology must have changed drastically in that amount of time. I think most of the extant images are of their court dress, which might have stayed the same, but probably wasn't what people actually wore.
 
And you're right about the SCA Byzantines being interested in beading and needlework. One of them was introduced to me as "Amanda Do-Not-Look-Directly-Into-The-Dress," because of the quantity of pearls and glass beads she was sporting. Also there seems to be some kind of local obsession with very early cultures, sometimes even outside the official SCA period. We have some great-looking Vikings, though. :)
 
Melody -- wow, that is a good price! I'll definitely check that out. Thanks!
 
Tea Rose
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Pride and Prejudice redheads
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I remember reading somewhere that superstitious people considered it bad luck to see a redhead in every part of the world where the Vikings had made a nuisance of themselves. The explanation seems a little pat to me, though, especially since I think of Vikings as being blonde. 
 
Tea Rose
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new belly styles
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I haven't seen MiL.  I imagine that's what the fashion is imulating, I guess.  The gal I saw was *definitely* wearing well worn, ripped jeans with her little skirt.  And a t-shirt.  The ripped, torn and faded jeans have been around for a while now...but I don't know how long.  It was just too wierd to see it with the cutsey little skirt.  At least her underwear was not showing! 

I used to wear leggings under my skirts back when I had a problem with keep ing warm.  Now that I'm -ahem- older, I don't seem to have that problem anymore.  I seem to need to layer my outfits for the sudden warmth.  I used to wear dresses more than separates, but now my wardrobe consists of separates that can be worn in layers.  My favorites are the sleeveless 'shell' blouse and a mid-knee aline skirt, that I can wear a sweater or nice jacket with.  Think of the outfits Jackie Kennedy Onassis used to wear, and you'll get an idea.  

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Have you seen "Monster-in-Law"? Jennifer Lopez wears that when she's walking 
> the dogs. I thought it was a good idea. I slipped on jeans under my work dress 
> last night to add some warmth and dress down a work outfit. I don't know about 
> grunge. Wouldn't the jeans have to be ripped? 
> 
> And speaking of ripped, can someone explain to me the prices they're getting for 
> brand new jeans in the stores that I would make my kids throw in the trash?!! 
> 
> Oh, and I'm double the twenty-something...;-) 
> 
> Julie 
> 
> ---- wrote: 
> > Another trend I'm seeing is for gals to wear a skirt and a pair of 
> > 'pants' under it. Today I saw a young lady wearing a micro-mini black 
> > knit ruffled skirt over a pair of raggedy well worn flared jeans. 
> > 
> > Is this the new grunge? 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Natural Form
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*gorgeous*!  Now I want to make one.  What pattern did you use?  I think this is just something I'd want to wear to the opera or symphony...just to be dressy!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> I made my sister's wedding dress in this era. I 
> absolutely love this period! For pics of how it 
> turned out, see here: 
> 
> http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressFront.jpg 
> http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressBack.jpg 
> http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressSide.jpg 
> 
> Go easy on me. There's a lot of talent on this board 
> and I'm kind of intimidated. ;) I'm rather proud of 
> how the front of the bodice turned out but of COURSE I 
> wasn't able to be there on her wedding day to tell her 
> to "Put the BLASTED BOUQUET DOWN so we can get a good 
> shot of the bodice!" D'oh! 
> 
> Such is life. 
> 
> As for movies, my favorite costume movie for this era 
> has to be the Sean Bean/Sophie Marceau version of Anna 
> Karenina. The problem with this movie is it's 
> supposed to take place over a certain period of time 
> but the fasions never change, which is a HUGE no-no 
> for this era because it changed so rapidly over the 
> course of a decade. But the good news is that means 
> we get a LOT of the natural form costumes to oggle at! 
> Huzzah! 
> 
> And I guess I'm definitely not trendy then because I 
> LOVE bustles (made my own wedding dress with one, in 
> fact...) ;) Three cheers for big bottoms! 
> 
> ;) 
> 
> 
> "Is there any hope, Gandalf? . . . For Frodo and Sam?" 
> "There never was much hope. Just a fool's hope." 
> 
> --Pippin and Gandalf, RETURN OF THE KING 
> 
> __________________________________________________ 
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 392
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 18:41:10 +0000
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LOL!!!  You lucky gal...you go girl!!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Us rredheads ain nothing but trouble..says my mom well actually a lot of 
> Mischief and a whole lot of fun....Says I! From one who had the kind of rich 
> Copper gold red hair that you can pick out in a crowd of redheads.... 
> 
> Satine teh Sassy redhead... 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------- 
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> Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. 
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Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 19:55:41 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote
>In a message dated 6/8/2005 10:31:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net writes:
>
>> Yes, the bright copper and reddish brown are what I was referring to.
>> I would not call strawberry blonde a bright red...
>>
>>
>
>And of course these are huge generalities. It may be that in, say, Greece or
>Italy where dark hair is prominent, bright copper red would have the men
>flocking to admire its exotic beauty. But we're talking England, so 
>such a color
>may be looked down upon as too Irish or Scottish...horrors!

Usually comes with freckles, too, which were definitely not the thing!

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
That weddingdress you made was gorgeous, i really love the simplissity of 
it, and yeat so full of details.
Congratulations, what a shame you could not attend to the  weding. Your 
sister must love you very much!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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I get the digest, so this may have been answered...

The pattern is currently available.

One place to buy on-line is
http://www.sewingpatterns.com
I didn't see a link for Simplicity (could just be my bad eyes), so i 
put Simplicity 4510 in the search box and it turns up.

I have never purchased anything from this site, so i don't know how 
quickly they deliver.

Anahita
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>Another trend I'm seeing is for gals to wear a skirt and a pair of
'pants' under it.  >Today I saw a young lady wearing a micro-mini
black knit ruffled skirt over a pair of >raggedy well worn flared
jeans.

>Is this the new grunge?

Nyah, it's one of the variations on Japanese schoolgirl.  Usually it's
a frilly or ruffled or eyelet or lacey skirt, about knee length, over
those jeans with the o-so-artificial "faded" spots in perfect oblongs
on thigh & shin.
It's was just starting to come into fashion as we were leaving Tokyo
in early 2002. Given the lag of films & shows coming over here, it's
about time for the fashion to creep in. Near Cupertino CA (very Asian
neighborhoods), it's been around for awhile.
The micromini over pants must be a Western variation?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Hi,
I hope not that my post gets a pestilense to you all because i want to show 
you things all the time.
But this time i would like to show you a new watercolour design i have made 
for an embroiderd waistcoat for myself. I want to start this projekt to take 
with me to the 1700 fair where i am going to demonstrate 18th century 
embroidery.
Mind you the bigger picture is large, because i want to show the details.
Also if you click on the chenille stumpwork dress, i have finished the 
embroidery of the right overskirt.

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/herreveste..htm


Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Here's a wonderful site with LOTS of period beading.

http://www.medievalbeads.com/

Julie

----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
It's a lot easier to sew beads on 
> a dalmatic (wide sleeved Byzantine style of tunic) than it is to fit a proper 
> Tudor or Elizabethan gown, but you can go as crazy decorating the Byzantine 
> if you wish.
> 
> 
> > I'm starting to 
> > think it's just an excuse to sew on forty pounds' worth of beads.
> 
> Yes, you could be right.  See above.  Are the Byzantines in your group 
> enthusiastic embroiderers and/or beaders outside of SCA activities?
> 

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Bjarne, your work is so breathtaking you could never send us too many 
pictures!  You're a constant source of inspiration.
Michelle
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 15:23:34 -0500
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Despite the preponderance of redhaired heroines in modern romance novels
set in historic times, who mostly seem wonderously free of freckles and
sunburn despite running around without the proper proper protection from
the sum(ie headgear, masks, gloves, fichus, whatever), red-haired ladies
and gentleman were rather rare, save in the back of beyond Ireland or
Scotland, unless there were some Viking DNA in the local gene pool. At
the least, red hair held the meaning of being of quick temper, and was
still traditionally held to have been the color of Judas's hair(whether
true or not, and how did they know), so in Christian Europe, red hair
was not a desired color and was usually described as anything but red.

Cindy Abel 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Jean Waddie
Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 1:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote
>In a message dated 6/8/2005 10:31:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
>elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net writes:
>
>> Yes, the bright copper and reddish brown are what I was referring to.
>> I would not call strawberry blonde a bright red...
>>
>>
>
>And of course these are huge generalities. It may be that in, say, 
>Greece or Italy where dark hair is prominent, bright copper red would 
>have the men flocking to admire its exotic beauty. But we're talking 
>England, so such a color may be looked down upon as too Irish or 
>Scottish...horrors!

Usually comes with freckles, too, which were definitely not the thing!

Jean

--
Jean Waddie
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From: Christine Robb <cedar@interlog.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing skirts over pants
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On Fri, Jun 10, 2005 at 09:29:58AM -0700, Cin wrote:
> It's was just starting to come into fashion as we were leaving Tokyo
> in early 2002. Given the lag of films & shows coming over here, it's
> about time for the fashion to creep in. Near Cupertino CA (very Asian
> neighborhoods), it's been around for awhile.
> The micromini over pants must be a Western variation?

The mini length, usually of an A-line skirt style, has been around the
New England contra dance scene for a number of years now, usually
amongst the younger crowd, but some 40+ women wear it too.


Christine
---
Toronto English Country Dancers present
A Weekend with Joseph Pimentel, June 17-19, 2005
http://www.interlog.com/cedar
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 09:25 PM 6/10/05 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi,
>I hope not that my post gets a pestilense to you all because i want to 
>show you things all the time.

Are you kidding?!? Bjarne, your work is so fine that we just love looking 
(and drooling)!
I especially love all of the pictures you take at various stages so that we 
can see the process
as each item develops.

Sheryl N-D





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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Natural Form
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Oh my gosh!!!
I want, I want, I want!

Sheryl N-D


At 08:39 AM 6/10/05 -0700, you wrote:
>I made my sister's wedding dress in this era.  I
>absolutely love this period!  For pics of how it
>turned out, see here:
>
>http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressFront.jpg
>http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressBack.jpg
>http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressSide.jpg




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Byzantine/late Roman costume
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A couple book recommendations:

Byzantine Women and Their World by Ioli Kalavrezou  This is quite recent, just coming out 2 years ago, and I recall there being a fair number of pictures.  I think it was part of a catalog for an exhibit at the Met. 

Byzantium: Faith and Power by Helen Evans   This came out after the one above but had something to do with the same exhibit.  This one is a big coffee table picture book (and priced accordingly) but worth it if this is your area of interest.

Byzantine Fashions by Tom Tierney   This is supposed to be a coloring book (for which use it is fairly inappropriate) but instead think of it as a cheap collection of clear line drawings showing  different outfits throughout the Byzantine period.  No documentation is given, but the captions usually give color information and identify the century and class of people pictured.  For  Fro $3.95, it's a deal.

Janet
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redheads
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 14:22:57 +1200
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> Of course, Elizabeth didn't actually have red hair. She had a reddish
> blonde that was the same as her father's.....and I don't believe that
> anyone ever accused either Henry VII or Elizabeth of York of being
> profligate....later in her reign she often wore wigs of a less subtle
> color. For her true hair color, see the portrait of her attributed to
> Scrots where she is an adolescent girl- it's closer to gold than
> red.....not that there's anything wrong with red hair, it's just a common
> misconception that Elizabeth had red hair and it makes me cranky when
> people attempt to cast aspersion on her without really knowing anything
> about her or her time. (That's not you, it's the author of whatever it
> was you read.....)

Technically that's still red;)

The red colour is coded by a different set of genes than the ones that
determine how dark your hair is.

Once you have that working, you are a redhead no matter how pale it is.

I do have to ask why is it saying she has red hair casting aspersions on
her? Or is it that the authors trot out the old myths about hair colour?

Michaela de bruce
born with carrot orange fuzz on my head that became bright golden blonde and
is now back to almost carrot orange again. That is when you can see my
natural har colour as I put rinses though it regularly for costuming;) Mind
you some people still call it blonde and when my hair was gold, there were
some who didn't want to call it blonde.... very odd.
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bustle or natural form era movies
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Helen Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bustle or natural form era movies


> It's not a movie, but an HBO series which just wrapped its second season -
> "Deadwood".  There are a lot of female characters, of several classes,
some
> of whom are recently arrived from back east, and therefore fashionably
> dressed.  If the series is not running in Australia, you can go to the
> website -
> http://www.hbo.com/deadwood/?ntrack_para1=leftnav_category0_show1    where
> you can see lots of pictures.   If you click on "behind the scenes", you
can
> access a special feature with the costume designer.

The series is not running in Australia, but I had a look at that site when
it was posted on one of my lists a few weeks ago.
My problem was that I was trying to explain the look of the natural form era
to a non costumer (just in casual conversation, she asked me what I was
working on & I commented that I had been distracted from my usual period by
natural form era fashion plates) and I couldn't think of an example to give
her a mental picture, I came up with a vague description of the basic ideas
(long bodices, fitted skirts, lots of draperies pulled to the back which end
in a train) but I usually try to give an example that I know a non costumer
will be relatively familiar with (e.g. if I'm talking about Regency I say
'Jane Austen era' because people don't understand what Regency fashion
means).
Thanks to everyone who suggested movies, I know what the era looks like and
there's plenty of fashion plates and photos of extant garments online
(though movies are fun they are inspiration not documentation). I was just
wondering if there was something I could have referred her to. I think "Age
of Innocence" might be the best candidate as a mainstream film set in the
1880s. I haven't seen it (I was 10 in 1993 so I probably couldn't have seen
it anyway) but based on the stills from the movie I've seen online (though
they weren't great costume shots) I think it was the beginning of the 2nd
bustle period?
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 14:22:57 +1200 "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
writes:
> I do have to ask why is it saying she has red hair casting 
> aspersions on
> her? Or is it that the authors trot out the old myths about hair 
> colour?

It was trotting out the old myths that pisses me off. As folks can
probably tell, I'm kinda into her as a historical personality and it just
makes me cranky that people tend to fling manure towards her in a way
that I seldom see done to any other ruler. I mean I never hear anyone
making those kind of catty comments about Queen Anne I........


Karen
Seamstrix

(who's parents fully expected her to be a red-head but who managed to
confound them.....)
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It is Kiinda wierd when my husband oggles over any new Spots as he calls freckles that I get just from being outside at dusk..... Its awlful I do not tan I Lobster or Spot..... 

 
Grizel  aka Jen Seagrest from Medieval beads is an amazing beader,  and Mentos as well as a wonderful woman and friend! you want to know beads she knows beads!!!!!!  

 
S


		
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Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 23:16:53 -0400
From: Jacqueline Johnson <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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People made many catty comments about Anne I. The whole Queen Anne is
dead thing could not have been flattering to an old gout ridden woman
who knew people were waiting for her to die. She also had the
advantage of a husband. (dolt as he was) An unmarried ruling woman is
suspect, hence the reason Mary of Scotland jumped into bad marriage
bed two and three. Anne had her own crosses to bear. Being called
stupid and too much into Sarah Churchill was the least of the
accusations.

B~

On 6/10/05, Karen R Bergquist <penhalion@juno.com> wrote:
> It was trotting out the old myths that pisses me off. As folks can
> probably tell, I'm kinda into her as a historical personality and it just
> makes me cranky that people tend to fling manure towards her in a way
> that I seldom see done to any other ruler. I mean I never hear anyone
> making those kind of catty comments about Queen Anne I........
> 
> 
> Karen
> Seamstrix

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Yes, I'm aware that they weren't kind to Anne during her life- but these
days most people (in America) aren't consciously aware she even existed
(except maybe for a style of late 19th century house *wink*) and people
aren't continually trotting out asinine theories like she was actually a
man.....or she had syphilis (perfectly possible actually, all her
children were sickly and died young, poor things), or any of the other
crackpot theories one hears. The Elizabeth was certainly no saint, but
I'd like it if people gave her credit for being clever enough not to make
Mary's mistake (talk about your object lesson!) and to make a damn fine
job of ruling a difficult country during a difficult time while making
minimal mistakes.... all things considered. Instead there seems to be a
cottage industry in academia and the popular press to try to diminish her
accomplishments by finding reasons why either she didn't do it or she
wasn't herself in some way or she had some terrible secret (Who really
cares what color her hair was? Does it make a difference?).......She's
become a great, big historical punching bag and she's not around to
defend herself so history weirdos like me feel like we have to do it. 


Karen
Seamstrix


On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 23:16:53 -0400 Jacqueline Johnson
<jacquelinejbump@gmail.com> writes:
> People made many catty comments about Anne I. The whole Queen Anne is
> dead thing could not have been flattering to an old gout ridden 
> woman
> who knew people were waiting for her to die. She also had the
> advantage of a husband. (dolt as he was) An unmarried ruling woman 
> is
> suspect, hence the reason Mary of Scotland jumped into bad marriage
> bed two and three. Anne had her own crosses to bear. Being called
> stupid and too much into Sarah Churchill was the least of the
> accusations.
> 
> B~
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Byzantine/late Roman costume
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 00:23:42 -0400
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On Friday 10 June 2005 7:38 am, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> I was not terribly impressed by Mary G. Houston's.. but it's a bit better
> than Norris (I find Norris too unreliable).

I'd forgotten that Norris purported to do Greek/Roman/Byzantine.  That's 
probably because it's in his "Ancient" volume which annoyed me so much with 
its myths and inaccuracies that I got rid of it after reading it.


> There's a new book coming out that I've been waiting for:
>
> Byzantine Dress : Representations of Secular Dress (The New Middle Ages)
> by Jennifer L. Ball Hardcover: 256 pages. Palgrave Macmillan (September 15,
> 2005) Language: English ISBN: 1403967008

Thank you.  This could be very interesting.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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On Friday 10 June 2005 10:04 am, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> Muthenius concentrates on early silk textiles.. I haven't seen anything by
> her on costume, per se.   All I have is her collected papers: "Studies in 
> Byzantine and Islamic Silk Weaving". As Carolyn said, the cut of Byzantine
> is quite simple, but the jewelry was most distinctive. 

[snip]

I haven't seen anything by her on "costume per se" either, but I believe that 
studies of period textiles is important to getting a handle on a period's 
costume.  As you said above,  Byzantine is simply cut.  It is the jewelry 
and, to some extent, the patterns that make it distinctive.  And although it 
may not be possible to find a brocade that is sufficiently close to period 
designs, period designs can inspire embroidery efforts.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Byzantine/late Roman costume
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 00:39:51 -0400
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On Friday 10 June 2005 5:53 pm, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:
[snip]


> Byzantine Fashions by Tom Tierney   This is supposed to be a coloring book
> (for which use it is fairly inappropriate) but instead think of it as a
> cheap collection of clear line drawings showing  different outfits
> throughout the Byzantine period.  No documentation is given, but the
> captions usually give color information and identify the century and class
> of people pictured.  For  Fro $3.95, it's a deal.

Personally, I've grown disenchanted with Tom Tierney.  I have some of the 
other historic costume coloring books he's done for Dover, and where I'm 
familiar with the source art I notice that he sometimes interprets the 
original wrongly.  For instance, in his "Medieval Fashions" book he shows an 
image of a woman from one of the calendar images in the Tres Riches Heures du 
Duc de Berry--the one in the light blue houppelande with a dark blue pattern 
on it, and a wide hat that looks as though it might be made of dark fur or 
feathers.  She is also wearing a long string of coral colored beads, with a 
tassel on the end.  Tierney interprets the string of beads as the edging of 
translucent cloak--even though nothing of the kind is indicated in the 
original.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Byzantine/late Roman costume
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On Friday 10 June 2005 12:44 pm, tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks Cathy, that's exactly the information I needed. I'll get the Houston
> book. I already have an SCA pamphlet, but it assumes that you know the
> difference between a dalmatica and a palla before you start.

You're welcome.  

Some of the other list members raised caveats about Houston.  The big thing 
about Houston is that she's one of the few costume-specific sources for 
Byzantine costume that is pretty generally available.  However, as I said, 
Houston doesn't really do dates and can have errors, so you may want to 
consider looking for the Jennifer Ball book that Beth Matney mentioned, once 
it is published.  This is the one:

Byzantine Dress : Representations of Secular Dress (The New Middle Ages)
by Jennifer L. Ball Hardcover: 256 pages. Palgrave Macmillan (September 15, 
2005) Language: English ISBN: 1403967008


> Regarding Romanesque: I guess I was getting the term from a costuming book,
> I think it's Holkeboer, who calls the period immediately after Roman
> withdrawal "Romanesque." Your delineation of the general periods for Roman,
> Byzantine and Romanesque will help, too. I think part of my problem has
> been not really knowing which century I was talking about. Saying
> "Byzantine" is like saying "English," or "Russian;" it covers a huge period
> of time. 

That's right.  It's also another reason why tracking down some of the 
history-oriented books and art books other list members have cited will help 
you lots.  

> Yet nobody seems to distinguish between early Byzantine and late 
> Byzantine. Surely their costume changed over a period of more than a
> thousand years? 

It certainly did.

> Textile technology must have changed drastically in that 
> amount of time. I think most of the extant images are of their court dress,
> which might have stayed the same, but probably wasn't what people actually
> wore.

Court dress changed also.  I'm not the best person to talk about details since 
it's not a primary interest for me, though.


> And you're right about the SCA Byzantines being interested in beading and
> needlework. One of them was introduced to me as "Amanda
> Do-Not-Look-Directly-Into-The-Dress," because of the quantity of pearls and
> glass beads she was sporting. Also there seems to be some kind of local
> obsession with very early cultures, sometimes even outside the official SCA
> period. We have some great-looking Vikings, though. :)

Do you?  Now that *is* within my period of interest.  However, it's not yours, 
so I'll be quiet now.  :-)

Good luck!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing skirts over pants
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let's not forget our Punker Boy friends who wear kilts
over low rider jeans with engineer boots

--- Christine Robb <cedar@interlog.com> wrote:

> On Fri, Jun 10, 2005 at 09:29:58AM -0700, Cin wrote:
> > It's was just starting to come into fashion as we
> were leaving Tokyo
> > in early 2002. Given the lag of films & shows
> coming over here, it's
> > about time for the fashion to creep in. Near
> Cupertino CA (very Asian
> > neighborhoods), it's been around for awhile.
> > The micromini over pants must be a Western
> variation?
> 
> The mini length, usually of an A-line skirt style,
> has been around the
> New England contra dance scene for a number of years
> now, usually
> amongst the younger crowd, but some 40+ women wear
> it too.
> 
> 
> Christine
> ---
> Toronto English Country Dancers present
> A Weekend with Joseph Pimentel, June 17-19, 2005
> http://www.interlog.com/cedar
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 



		
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman/Byzantine
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On Friday 10 June 2005 9:07 am, Aurelia Rufinia wrote:
> Hope isn't bad- I've done some side by sides with the
> statues he drew from, and he's pretty accurate.  That
> said, it's better to just go to the source if
> possible.

If only because Hope doesn't provide dates for anything.  :-)
>
> Mostly I do Roman, so I go from art books and the
> like.  _The World of Roman Costume_ is really quite
> good for history, but I'm not very impressed with
> their reconstruction techniques.

It's interesting that you say that.  There's a website that shows 
reconstructions of Roman costume done by Sebesta and other academics as part 
of a 1988 conference.  (Make sure to select "Reproductions of Ancient 
Costumes" in the box at the top of the page to get the slide show I'm talking 
about.)  Many of their costumes did strike me as unconvincing.  Here's where 
the slideshow starts, if you're curious:

http://www.uky.edu/ArtsSciences/Classics/slides/selectshow.html

However, one thing I have learned from my efforts to make untailored costumes 
such as peploses and stolas is that the properties of the fabric are  the 
single most important factor to getting the right look.  Moreover, finding 
modern fabrics --even natural fiber fabrics--with the appropriate textural 
and drape qualities is, IMO, very difficult.  How do you do it?   What 
fabrics do you use for your Roman recreations, and how well have they worked 
for you?  I'm curious.


Speaking of reconstruction, what do you think of Alexandra Croom's book, 
"Roman Clothing and Fashion"?  I found it more comprehensible than World of 
Roman Costume in conveying an understanding of how the clothing items were 
actually worn.  In particular, it was the first source I encountered on the 
subject that made me aware that stolas had shoulder cords which acted as 
straps.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bustle or natural form era movies
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In a message dated 6/10/2005 10:49:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
ewalpole@tpg.com.au writes:

> I could have referred her to. I think "Age
> of Innocence" might be the best candidate as a mainstream film set in the
> 1880s.

Except that it's mid-1870s.....as is "The Bostonians" which if you haven't 
seen, you should. By 1883 we're into the big huge late bustle period you see in 
"Topsy Turvy"....and indeed in "Deadwood" which I would not call set in this 
"natural" or cuirass bustle. The period you refer to is brief: from like 1875 
to 1880 with bits of it appearing a little before and after. For a pre- cuirass 
bustle film, try "The French Lieutenant's Woman". The spoiled fiancee has 
some great clothes of a period seen even less in film than cuirass.
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20050610153903.93515.qmail@web32905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Natural Form
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 19:21:57 +1000
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Galadriel of Lothlorien" <galadrielfinwe@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 1:39 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Natural Form


> I made my sister's wedding dress in this era.  I
> absolutely love this period!  For pics of how it
> turned out, see here:
>
> http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressFront.jpg
> http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressBack.jpg
> http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressSide.jpg
>
> Go easy on me.  There's a lot of talent on this board
> and I'm kind of intimidated.  ;)  I'm rather proud of
> how the front of the bodice turned out but of COURSE I
> wasn't able to be there on her wedding day to tell her
> to "Put the BLASTED BOUQUET DOWN so we can get a good
> shot of the bodice!"  D'oh!
>
> Such is life.
<snip>
It looks fabulous! I especially like the way you used textures to prevent
the all white colour scheme from getting monotonous.
The only possible flaw would be the train (though I have seen one photo with
a train that lies flat on the ground like that so it is period) I thought
the look might be improved with a petticoat like this
http://www.fashion-era.com/images/Crinsbustles/pett1873.jpg
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> Personally, I've grown disenchanted with Tom Tierney.  I have some of the 
> other historic costume coloring books he's done for Dover, and where I'm 
> familiar with the source art I notice that he sometimes interprets the 
> original wrongly.  For instance, in his "Medieval Fashions" book he shows an 
> image of a woman from one of the calendar images in the Tres Riches Heures du 
> Duc de Berry--the one in the light blue houppelande with a dark blue pattern 
> on it, and a wide hat that looks as though it might be made of dark fur or 
> feathers.  She is also wearing a long string of coral colored beads, with a 
> tassel on the end.  Tierney interprets the string of beads as the edging of 
> translucent cloak--even though nothing of the kind is indicated in the 
> original.

Oh, my!  That's ... original.

Folks interested in the Tres Riches Heures will find this image very 
interesting -- a close-up of another draped string of beads 
(enlargements available via click):

http://www.nga.gov/collection/gallery/gg39/gg39-31.0.html

Franco-Flemish 15th Century
Profile Portrait of a Lady, c. 1410

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Want to see my Brass Rubbings?"
     "Mediaevalist on Board" license plate frames
           at http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures
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------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 01:21:30 -0400
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman/Byzantine
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <200506110121.30967.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="iso-8859-1"

On Friday 10 June 2005 9:07 am, Aurelia Rufinia wrote:
> Hope isn't bad- I've done some side by sides with
the
> statues he drew from, and he's pretty accurate. 
That
> said, it's better to just go to the source if
> possible.

>>If only because Hope doesn't provide dates for
>>anything.  :-)
>
He does not, you're right.  THere are a few statues
that I was pretty sure I know who they were, or at
least had a idea of where I'd seen them before.  


http://www.uky.edu/ArtsSciences/Classics/slides/selectshow.html

However, one thing I have learned from my efforts to
make untailored 
costumes 
such as peploses and stolas is that the properties of
the fabric are  
the 
single most important factor to getting the right
look.  Moreover, 
finding 
modern fabrics --even natural fiber fabrics--with the
appropriate 
textural 
and drape qualities is, IMO, very difficult.  How do
you do it?   What 
fabrics do you use for your Roman recreations, and how
well have they 
worked 
for you?  I'm curious.
------------

SInce most of my costumes were made for Pennsic, I use
a *lot* of linen.  I have a few items made from
cotton,  (Egyptian cotton, of course.  :-) and a
decent amount made from wool.  It works well for me,
as long as my linen is well washed and the wool isn't
too heavy.  I've found that the bigger isssue when it
comes to pallas is figuring out the lenght that you
can amange without drowning in it.  For me it's about
3 to 3.5 yards.  Any more than that and I get
frusterated with managing it.  
--------------

Speaking of reconstruction, what do you think of
Alexandra Croom's 
book, 
"Roman Clothing and Fashion"?  I found it more
comprehensible than 
World of 
Roman Costume in conveying an understanding of how the
clothing items 
were 
actually worn.  In particular, it was the first source
I encountered on 
the 
subject that made me aware that stolas had shoulder
cords which acted 
as 
straps.

---------------
I have not seen this book.  I have my own theories on
stola shoulders....  I pleat mine into straps (Hard ot
explain on email) but the World of Roman Costume (I
think) also has a close up shot of a stola strap on a
statue (try saying that ten times fast) that looks, to
me, like it's been pleated into itself.  

AUrelia

Baroness Aurelia Rufinia
House Iron Maiden, Barony of Carolingia, 
East Kingdom, Northshield Ex-Pat

"We're always fascinated when we find leg irons with no legs in them.  Who held the keys, sir?"


		
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Did anybody else watch the first episode last night? It was a lot better 
than I was expecting. The story starts around 1830, and I thought they 
made a good effort on the clothing and sets, although there was only one 
female closeup very early.

Part two looks like it will have more female characters, so costume 
watching ought to be more interesting.

They'll be repeating part one again Saturday and Sunday nights on TNT. 
(US cable channel)



Dawn


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Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 06:47:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered waistcoat.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Oh Bjarne NEVER think you send to many e-mails.  I, for one, so look forward to seeing what you create and have been inspired on several occasions to 'get my butt moving' on projects I've put off  to the side.
 
PLEASE keep sending e-mails and again, thank you for sharing your talent and knowledge.
 
All the Best,
Chris G.

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
Hi,
I hope not that my post gets a pestilense to you all because i want to show 
you things all the time.
But this time i would like to show you a new watercolour design i have made 
for an embroiderd waistcoat for myself. 
		
---------------------------------
Discover Yahoo!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Byzantine/late Roman costume
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> On Friday 10 June 2005 12:44 pm, tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> > Thanks Cathy, that's exactly the information I needed. I'll get the Houston
> > book. I already have an SCA pamphlet, but it assumes that you know the
> > difference between a dalmatica and a palla before you start.
>
> You're welcome.
>

*snippage*

> > Regarding Romanesque: I guess I was getting the term from a costuming book,
> > I think it's Holkeboer, who calls the period immediately after Roman
> > withdrawal "Romanesque." Your delineation of the general periods for Roman,
> > Byzantine and Romanesque will help, too. I think part of my problem has
> > been not really knowing which century I was talking about. Saying
> > "Byzantine" is like saying "English," or "Russian;" it covers a huge period
> > of time.
>
> That's right.  It's also another reason why tracking down some of the
> history-oriented books and art books other list members have cited will help
> you lots.
>

OK.  It seems I missed the post with the definitions in it.  (It will probably
show up in my inbox with a huge dump of other things that I haven't realized
that I've missed, but ...)  could somebody please re-post that message?

Thanks!
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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*snippage*
>
> It's interesting that you say that.  There's a website that shows
> reconstructions of Roman costume done by Sebesta and other academics as part
> of a 1988 conference.  (Make sure to select "Reproductions of Ancient
> Costumes" in the box at the top of the page to get the slide show I'm talking
> about.)  Many of their costumes did strike me as unconvincing.  Here's where
> the slideshow starts, if you're curious:
>
> http://www.uky.edu/ArtsSciences/Classics/slides/selectshow.html
>

*nice*  Based on this, my chiton is way to "wide" and looks to perhaps be
the primary reason I'm not satisfied with it.  How "big" should one be --
or what's a good rule of thumb I guess -- widest measurement plus ?????

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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At 6:38 AM -0500 6/10/05, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
>I was not terribly impressed by Mary G. Houston's.. but it's a bit 
>better than Norris (I find Norris too unreliable). I haven't seen 
>the Hope. There's a new book coming out that I've been waiting for:
>
>Byzantine Dress : Representations of Secular Dress (The New Middle Ages)
>by Jennifer L. Ball Hardcover: 256 pages. Palgrave Macmillan 
>(September 15, 2005) Language: English ISBN: 1403967008
>
>another that I've been thinking about is
>
>Ecclesiastical Dress in the Medieval Near East (Studies in Textile 
>Costume History, Vol 1) by K.C. Innemee, Karel C. Innemee Hardcover: 
>300 pages. Brill Academic Pub (August 1, 1997) ISBN: 9004095489

I had a chance to browse through the Innemee book at a bookstore 
once.  My impression was that, while there was a great deal of 
in-depth analysis, the visual material they were working from was 
rather scanty.  (I had been hoping for some surviving garments, given 
that ecclesiastical items tend to be preserved more often, and also 
given that another volume in the series is Vogelsang-Eastwood's book 
on Pharaonic clothing, which is chock-full of surviving garments.)

Everyone's interests are different, so I don't know whether your 
needs might match the book's contents better.  But given that it's 
likely to be expensive, I hope you get a chance to look through it 
before committing your money.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
<http://heatherrosejones.com>
*****
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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: re: [h-cost] Byzantine/late Roman costume
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Thanks for the update. I've been thinking about it for about a year.. the 
price has been an issue. I'm really glad to hear from someone that's 
actually seen it. Think I'll ILL it instead. Not a primary interest.. just 
fleshing out background.

It's strange that they didn't use more of the surviving garments.. there is 
so much out there... just scattered, but Stillman's didn't illustrate much 
on Islamic either.

Beth

At 01:00 PM 6/11/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 20:47:42 -0700
>From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
>Subject: re: [h-cost] Byzantine/late Roman costume
>
>At 6:38 AM -0500 6/10/05, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
>
> >another that I've been thinking about is
> >
> >Ecclesiastical Dress in the Medieval Near East (Studies in Textile
> >Costume History, Vol 1) by K.C. Innemee, Karel C. Innemee Hardcover:
> >300 pages. Brill Academic Pub (August 1, 1997) ISBN: 9004095489
>
>I had a chance to browse through the Innemee book at a bookstore
>once.  My impression was that, while there was a great deal of
>in-depth analysis, the visual material they were working from was
>rather scanty.  (I had been hoping for some surviving garments, given
>that ecclesiastical items tend to be preserved more often, and also
>given that another volume in the series is Vogelsang-Eastwood's book
>on Pharaonic clothing, which is chock-full of surviving garments.)
>
>Everyone's interests are different, so I don't know whether your
>needs might match the book's contents better.  But given that it's
>likely to be expensive, I hope you get a chance to look through it
>before committing your money.
>
>Heather

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman/Byzantine
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On Saturday 11 June 2005 11:23 am, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> *snippage*
>
> > It's interesting that you say that.  There's a website that shows
> > reconstructions of Roman costume done by Sebesta and other academics as
> > part of a 1988 conference.  (Make sure to select "Reproductions of
> > Ancient Costumes" in the box at the top of the page to get the slide show
> > I'm talking about.)  Many of their costumes did strike me as
> > unconvincing.  Here's where the slideshow starts, if you're curious:
> >
> > http://www.uky.edu/ArtsSciences/Classics/slides/selectshow.html
>
> *nice*  Based on this, my chiton is way to "wide" and looks to perhaps be
> the primary reason I'm not satisfied with it.  How "big" should one be --
> or what's a good rule of thumb I guess -- widest measurement plus ?????

No, you've misunderstood the reason I posted the URL above.  

I think that many of the women's garments on the page are too *narrow*.  I 
sent the URL to Aurelia because the photos include Judith Lynn Sebesta, who 
wrote a book called "The World of Roman Costume."  Aurelia found the book to 
be useful, *except* for the author's article about reconstructing Roman 
costume.   I posted the URL because I agreed with Aurelia, and thought she 
might be interested in visual evidence of how the reconstructions by Sebesta 
et al. are off the mark.

RE:  What width works.  I've seen several different rules of thumb, the 
origins of which I do not know (and which I therefore suspect to be 
non-documentable).  One is to make the tube for a narrow chiton as wide as 
the length of one's outstretched arms from elbow to elbow, and a wide chiton 
as wide as the distance from  fingertip to fingertip.  However, my 
experiments have shown me that width alone will not get you a result that 
looks like the Roman sculptures and the Greek sculptures and paintings.  You 
also need a fabric that can drape into fine folds and is not stiff.  The only 
fabrics I ever found that came reasonably close to this ideal were a mystery 
fabric I bought from an SCA vendor which was sold to me as "linen"--I'm not 
sure if it is, but I love the way it falls and wish I had more of it.  The 
other was a medium-weight crinkle rayon, which doesn't have the right surface 
appearance and which I'm afraid to wash.  (The "linen," on the other hand, 
has shrunk some but otherwise washes very well.)



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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On Saturday 11 June 2005 8:35 am, Aurelia Rufinia wrote:
[snip]

[I said:]
> Speaking of reconstruction, what do you think of
> Alexandra Croom's
> book,
> "Roman Clothing and Fashion"?  

[snip]
[You replied:]

> I have not seen this book. 

Oxbow Books (David Brown Book Company,in the US) sells it, if you decide 
you're interested.


> I have my own theories on 
> stola shoulders....  I pleat mine into straps (Hard ot
> explain on email) but the World of Roman Costume (I
> think) also has a close up shot of a stola strap on a
> statue (try saying that ten times fast) that looks, to
> me, like it's been pleated into itself.

I'll need to check that out;  thanks.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman/Byzantine
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Quoting Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>:

> On Saturday 11 June 2005 11:23 am, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>> *snippage*
>>
>> > It's interesting that you say that.  There's a website that shows
>> > reconstructions of Roman costume done by Sebesta and other academics as
>> > part of a 1988 conference.  (Make sure to select "Reproductions of
>> > Ancient Costumes" in the box at the top of the page to get the slide show
>> > I'm talking about.)  Many of their costumes did strike me as
>> > unconvincing.  Here's where the slideshow starts, if you're curious:
>> >
>> > http://www.uky.edu/ArtsSciences/Classics/slides/selectshow.html
>>
>> *nice*  Based on this, my chiton is way to "wide" and looks to perhaps be
>> the primary reason I'm not satisfied with it.  How "big" should one be --
>> or what's a good rule of thumb I guess -- widest measurement plus ?????
>
> No, you've misunderstood the reason I posted the URL above.
>
> I think that many of the women's garments on the page are too *narrow*.  I
> sent the URL to Aurelia because the photos include Judith Lynn Sebesta, who
> wrote a book called "The World of Roman Costume."  Aurelia found the book to
> be useful, *except* for the author's article about reconstructing Roman
> costume.   I posted the URL because I agreed with Aurelia, and thought she
> might be interested in visual evidence of how the reconstructions by Sebesta
> et al. are off the mark.
>

Ahhh.  Now I understand!  Thanks for clarifying that for me.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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As per films or television shows with natural forms..; Gone With The Wind has Scarlett O'Hara is a gorgeous red dress with bustle toward the end of the movie. Since the beginning of this movies is 1861 and she doesn't marry Rhett Butler until after Reconstruction, the time would be the 1870's to 1880's.
 
Also, Gunsmoke, which can be found on the Hallmark Channel almost all day Saturday and in the evening all week, has the famous Miss Kitty. It to is set post Civil War. Miss Kitty has some great stuff. I'm not sure how authentic, but she is certainly the most fashionable womn in the town. Her stuff sure does show off her figure.
 
Mary

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From: Aurelia Rufinia <aureliarufinia@yahoo.com>
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I make *all* of my Roman garb the width of the fabric,
so most of it is around 54".  Any shaping is done with
belts or draping.   The ionic chintons I make as wide
as my armspan, and use a minorly complecated belting
method to shape them.

Aurelia

-------------
*nice*  Based on this, my chiton is way to "wide" and
looks to perhaps 
be
the primary reason I'm not satisfied with it.  How
"big" should one be 
--
or what's a good rule of thumb I guess -- widest
measurement plus ?????

Baroness Aurelia Rufinia
House Iron Maiden, Barony of Carolingia, 
East Kingdom, Northshield Ex-Pat

"We're always fascinated when we find leg irons with no legs in them.  Who held the keys, sir?"

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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Susan Farmer wrote:

>You also need a fabric that can drape into fine folds and is not stiff.  The only 
>fabrics I ever found that came reasonably close to this ideal were a mystery 
>fabric I bought from an SCA vendor which was sold to me as "linen"--I'm not 
>sure if it is, but I love the way it falls and wish I had more of it.  The 
>other was a medium-weight crinkle rayon, which doesn't have the right surface 
>appearance and which I'm afraid to wash.  (The "linen," on the other hand, 
>has shrunk some but otherwise washes very well.)

I would suspect your "mystery material" may also be rayon, or possibly a rayon-linen blend. Rayon does have a wonderful drape, and since it's a cellulose-based fiber, it breathes much better than most synthetics. 

I would suspect also that what the Greeks and Romans used (assuming the "drape" on statues is not artistic license!) may have been very fine linen, washed multiple times for softness, or perhaps a fine gauzy wool. Both, alas, very hard to find nowadays :)

Remember that "linen" nowadays in fabric-store terms refers to a particular surface appearance, not to fiber content. Peculiarities like "linen, 100% rayon" are not uncommon, or the one that always makes me laugh, the otherwise redundant "100% flax linen".

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0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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In a message dated 6/11/2005 10:27:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
texas_byrd@yahoo.com writes:

Miss  Kitty has some great stuff. I'm not sure how authentic, but 


Zero....zero authentic!
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing skirts over pants
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Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com> wrote
>let's not forget our Punker Boy friends who wear kilts
>over low rider jeans with engineer boots
>
>--- Christine Robb <cedar@interlog.com> wrote:
>
Are you telling me they are wearing kilts at "low rider" level? 
Eeuuughhhh! Thank goodness that hasn't travelled over here.  I feel 
quite ill!

The other week I had to fly to a meeting, and I got off the plane and 
walked all the way into the terminal behind this young guy, I swear I 
thought his jeans were going to fall round his ankles any minute, there 
were several inches of underpant showing.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing skirts over pants
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>The other week I had to fly to a meeting, and I got off the plane and 
>walked all the way into the terminal behind this young guy, I swear I 
>thought his jeans were going to fall round his ankles any minute, there 
>were several inches of underpant showing.

I guess I have a different perspective on what young people wear.  I see 
these oddities as ways they have to try to upset us "older folks".  And I 
can see, from the responses on this list, that they're doing a pretty good 
job of it.  I smile at things like low-rider jeans, which I merely don't 
like, and hope somebody shows these guys blackmail photos of themselves 
when they get to be suit-wearing middle-aged businessmen.  I mean, I was a 
Hippie when I was their age, and wore some pretty outrageous and 
in-your-face things back then.

Come to think of it, I wear some pretty outrageous and in-your-face things 
now, and embarrass one of my daughters no end.  (The other daughter has 
been known to borrow some of my modern outrageous clothes.)


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman/Byzantine
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 16:18:25 -0400
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On Sunday 12 June 2005 10:52 am, Chris Laning wrote:

> Susan Farmer wrote:

No, actually the following comment was from me.

> >You also need a fabric that can drape into fine folds and is not stiff. 
> > The only fabrics I ever found that came reasonably close to this ideal
> > were a mystery fabric I bought from an SCA vendor which was sold to me as
> > "linen"--I'm not sure if it is, but I love the way it falls and wish I
> > had more of it.  

[snip]

>
> I would suspect your "mystery material" may also be rayon, or possibly a
> rayon-linen blend. Rayon does have a wonderful drape, and since it's a
> cellulose-based fiber, it breathes much better than most synthetics.

You could be right, I certainly can't rule rayon out without something like a 
burn test.

The woman who sold it to me said she'd tried to dye it with a natural dye 
(can't remember which one) but it didn't really take.  The result remained a 
very pale tan (not creme--it's not a yellowish color at all) with brown bits 
here and there.  

I suspect the yarn type and weave has a lot to do with its wonderful 
properties.  The yarn is fairly fine and the weave somewhat open.  I'm 
thinking of hunting for linen gauze in the future to try to obtain a fabric 
with similar properties.


> I would suspect also that what the Greeks and Romans used (assuming the
> "drape" on statues is not artistic license!) may have been very fine linen,
> washed multiple times for softness, or perhaps a fine gauzy wool. Both,
> alas, very hard to find nowadays :)

I agree with you, on both statements.  :-)


> Remember that "linen" nowadays in fabric-store terms refers to a particular
> surface appearance, not to fiber content. Peculiarities like "linen, 100%
> rayon" are not uncommon, or the one that always makes me laugh, the
> otherwise redundant "100% flax linen".

I'm aware of that. 

The fabric I was writing about does not have the "linen-look"; it actually 
looks more like a gauze.  The woman I bought it from routinely sells to SCA 
people and understands the difference between "look" and content, but her own 
information was not complete.  I'm certain she was honestly telling me what 
she had been toled, but we both recognized that her information may have been 
incorrect.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1662/06/12/index.php

This morning I tried on my riding cloth suit with close knees, the first 
that ever I had; and I think they will be very convenient, if not too 
hot to wear any other open knees after them.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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There's a new look up here (Winnipeg) of wearing jeans with one leg down to the ankle and the other rolled up to under the knee. 

I'm guessing some celebrity thought it was brilliant idea. It's going to leave interesting tan lines.

Wendy



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Wendy said,
>There's a new look up here (Winnipeg) of wearing jeans with one leg 
>down to the ankle and the other rolled up to under the knee.
>
>I'm guessing some celebrity thought it was brilliant idea. It's 
>going to leave interesting tan lines.

      I suppose you could alternate each day?  :-)

      Carolyn mentioned earlier how people dress in outrageous fashion 
as teenagers, and then would be embarrassed to admit to it as adults. 
As people interested in costume, I think we would be less likely to 
feel that way.  I didn't like most of the trends out there when I was 
a teenager.  If "everybody" did it, why bother? :-)  Either I liked 
the style or I didn't, so there's no need for me to be embarrassed 
about it later.  Except for things my mom bought for me....

      -Carol
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That's pretty old really. Depending on which leg is up it's drug
dealer code as to whether or not they are carrying.

Bice

On 6/12/05, Wendy <emmajean@myway.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> There's a new look up here (Winnipeg) of wearing jeans with one leg down to the ankle and the other rolled up to under the knee.
> 
> I'm guessing some celebrity thought it was brilliant idea. It's going to leave interesting tan lines.
> 
> Wendy

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Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 19:25:37 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hose
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Status: RO

Another possibility is that the "jersey" was woven with somewhat 
overtwisted yarns, which would also make it stretchy, almost like a knit.
Joan

At 05:08 PM 6/8/2005 -0700, you wrote:

>>Now the question is: What does Frick mean by the use of the term 
>>"jersey"  and what is the characteristics of the cloth that make it 
>>"stretchable"? To most of us this would imply a knit textile, but I 
>>cannot find supporting documentation (though we do know that knitted 
>>stockings were made in England by the time of Elizabeth I). Perhaps some 
>>variation on a twill is intended...
>
>I made a pair of waist-high footed hose for someone using thin 
>loosely-woven wool cut on the bias.  My only guess is that "jersey" refers 
>to cloth woven in Jersey, not to a knit.
>
>
>        CarolynKayta Barrows
>dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>          www.FunStuft.com
>
>              //// \\\
>             ////-@@\\\
>            ((((   7 )))
>             (((  <> ))))
>                )   ((((((
>           /----\   /---\))
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 13 00:41:31 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hose
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I think some of the costuming books (especially the older ones) tend to
assume XYZ fabric name must mean jersey (Using the modern definition of a
knit) because it's generally listed as used to make hose and that's the sort
of fabric you would use to make hose. I don't know how good this author is,
but it's a thought to consider that she might be wrong.
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hose


> Another possibility is that the "jersey" was woven with somewhat
> overtwisted yarns, which would also make it stretchy, almost like a knit.
> Joan
>
> At 05:08 PM 6/8/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >>Now the question is: What does Frick mean by the use of the term
> >>"jersey"  and what is the characteristics of the cloth that make it
> >>"stretchable"? To most of us this would imply a knit textile, but I
> >>cannot find supporting documentation (though we do know that knitted
> >>stockings were made in England by the time of Elizabeth I). Perhaps some
> >>variation on a twill is intended...
> >
> >I made a pair of waist-high footed hose for someone using thin
> >loosely-woven wool cut on the bias.  My only guess is that "jersey"
refers
> >to cloth woven in Jersey, not to a knit.
> >
> >
> >        CarolynKayta Barrows
> >dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
> >          www.FunStuft.com
> >
> >              //// \\\
> >             ////-@@\\\
> >            ((((   7 )))
> >             (((  <> ))))
> >                )   ((((((
> >           /----\   /---\))
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 13 01:16:26 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] teen fashion
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When I ride my bike, I roll my right pant leg up and sometimes I forget 
to unroll it when I dismount.  Personally, I think this habit makes me 
look quite the doofus.

- Ynes

Wendy wrote:

>There's a new look up here (Winnipeg) of wearing jeans with one leg down to the ankle and the other rolled up to under the knee. 
>
>I'm guessing some celebrity thought it was brilliant idea. It's going to leave interesting tan lines.
>
>Wendy
>  
>

-- 

Lady Ynes Garcia, Chatelaine for the Barony of Storvik
mka Lisa Fogelman
ynes@sskip.net

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 13 01:24:10 2005
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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The one pants leg rolled up has been a teen fashion for a couple of years.  

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com

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Bjarne, your posts could never be a pestilence; you show us such beautiful things. The detail is exquisite and the colour combinations lovely.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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I know we have discussed the 1890s and the social classes... that the middle and upper classes were larger at this time.  Does anyone know of a website that has details on this information?

Also were there other notable inventions during the 1890s.  I have the electric iron and the shoe fasteners (aka zippers).  Can anyone else think of other inventions that related to our industry during this time?

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tuxedo/tails pattern needed
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Ageless Patterns has a men's tailcoat suit pattern, says it is 1860's,
don't know what the source of the patetrn is or if it is any good.

www.agelesspatterns.com

Katy

On Thu, 9 Jun 2005, Megan M. wrote:

>Thanks for the suggestion.  I looked up Jean Hardy on the web, plus I went
>to G-Street today and found that Folkwear has a frock coat, plus the prince
>Charlie jacket in the kilt pattern is not too far off, so I think I may use
>those.  There is also a Suitability shadbelly that is pretty close.  So,
>somewhere between these three is the jacket I have in mind.... unless I find
>an actual tails pattern before I get around to making it.
>-Megan
>
>
>
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Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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I finally got a chance to see this movie--it is the new version with Al
Pacino playing Shylock--and I have to say that it was very well done.  The
costumes for the ladies were a pity, though.

They used beautiful fabrics for the dresses (one particularly exquisite
shot silk in a jacquard weave that was super yummy) but they didn't make
them right.  Every dress Portia wears is off the shoulder (huh?) and she
wears her hair down constantly with just a fancy circlet/crown-ish thing. 
I realize that it is Hollywood but the real styles are just as sexy and
beautiful and they would have been a better use of the gorgeous fabrics!

I recommend seeing it, though.  The acting was very good and the language
isn't as difficult to understand as some other Shakespeare stuff.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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For the skirt, we started out with an Ageless Pattern
(http://www.agelesspatterns.com) but even though the
picture looks like the skirt we made, the pattern was
for something MUCH simpler.  So we really had to make
that mostly on our own.  The bodice I patterned
myself.

Thank you all for the compliments. :)



> *gorgeous*!  Now I want to make one.  What pattern
> did you use?  I think this is just something I'd
> want to wear to the opera or symphony...just to be
> dressy!
> 
> --
> Slan go foill 
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
> 
> Emer's Needle Wares
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> 
> > I made my sister's wedding dress in this era. I 
> > absolutely love this period! For pics of how it 
> > turned out, see here: 
> > 
> >
> http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressFront.jpg 
> > http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressBack.jpg
> 
> > http://member.dorianmirth.com/Rachel/DressSide.jpg



		
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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 08:38:22 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1890s and Social Classes
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>Also were there other notable inventions during the 1890s.  I have the 
>electric iron and the shoe fasteners (aka zippers).  Can anyone else think 
>of other inventions that related to our industry during this time?

Rayon


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Thank you!  We had a lot of fun finding the fabrics.

Actually, I would have LOVED to have had time to make
a petticoat.  I know you can't achieve the right look
without the right underthings, but as it was, while I
was making her corset and dress, I was also preparing
for a national competition for costume design in
theatre which I did NOT expect to win regionally so I
had a LOT to do, oh yeah and I also had pneumonia.  ;)

My costume design friend has offered to make a
petticoat for my sister for a Christmas present, so
thanks for the link!  I've passed it on and it will
come in handy.  :D


> <snip>
> It looks fabulous! I especially like the way you
> used textures to prevent
> the all white colour scheme from getting monotonous.
> The only possible flaw would be the train (though I
> have seen one photo with
> a train that lies flat on the ground like that so it
> is period) I thought
> the look might be improved with a petticoat like
> this
>
http://www.fashion-era.com/images/Crinsbustles/pett1873.jpg
> Elizabeth



		
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If you need a pattern, there are four natural form era petticoat 
patterns in Volume 1 of my anthology of 1877-1882 women's patterns, 
_Fashions of the Gilded Age_. One of the petticoats has an attached 
train, another a buttoned-on detachable train.  There is also a pattern 
for a sort of tie-on partial petticoat with back ruffles to tie over 
another petticoat.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Galadriel of Lothlorien wrote:

<snip>

>My costume design friend has offered to make a
>petticoat for my sister for a Christmas present, so
>thanks for the link!  I've passed it on and it will
>come in handy.  :D
>
>  
>
>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: hose
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That is a good suggestion.. twill with over-twisted yarns... and we will 
probably never know for sure. It would be wonderful to find a surviving 
sample.  Frick is a current scholar and is usually quite meticulous, which 
is why her use of the term "jersey" (without qualification) jumped out at 
me. The actual textile that she refers by this is "perpignan" (named for 
the town in what is now France... originally capital of Majorca and then in 
Catalonia until 1603). There was quite a trade in the textile to Italy.

I would love it if Dr. Frick would reply to one of my emails and say why 
she chose to describe it as jersey. The only footnote she gives is to an 
economic history text in Italian (which I have) that does not discuss the 
textile's properties.

Beth

At 10:54 AM 6/13/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 19:25:37 -0700
>From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hose
>
>Another possibility is that the "jersey" was woven with somewhat
>overtwisted yarns, which would also make it stretchy, almost like a knit.
>Joan
>
>At 05:08 PM 6/8/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >>Now the question is: What does Frick mean by the use of the term
> >>"jersey"  and what is the characteristics of the cloth that make it
> >>"stretchable"? To most of us this would imply a knit textile, but I
> >>cannot find supporting documentation (though we do know that knitted
> >>stockings were made in England by the time of Elizabeth I). Perhaps some
> >>variation on a twill is intended...

>Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 14:39:09 +1000
>From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
>
>I think some of the costuming books (especially the older ones) tend to
>assume XYZ fabric name must mean jersey (Using the modern definition of a
>knit) because it's generally listed as used to make hose and that's the sort
>of fabric you would use to make hose. I don't know how good this author is,
>but it's a thought to consider that she might be wrong.
>Elizabeth

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-------------- Original message -------------- 

> A couple book recommendations: 
> 
> Byzantine Women and Their World by Ioli Kalavrezou This is quite recent, just 
> coming out 2 years ago, and I recall there being a fair number of pictures. I 
> think it was part of a catalog for an exhibit at the Met. 
Thanks, Janet - this is exactly the one I was going to reccomend, and now I don't have to type the citation!. :-) It's actually a Harvard exhibit, and is an excellent pictorial source. It's not going to have patterns, but with a basic understanding of dress forms, one can figure it out. One of my favorites, since there are also lots of head-dressings depicted. I also get some direction from:
Late Antiquity, A guide to the Post-Classical World, G.W. Bowersock, et.al.1999, Harvard University Press, 0-674-51173-5
I bought this solely for the necklace in plate 23 (which pretty much debunks the "superhumeral" idea), but have since found it useful for other clothing interpretations. Not tons of illustrations, but enough. Lots and lots of info.

Eirene
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese Parasol
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>Anyway, I have a kinda-sorta-not-really OT question. I
>picked up a chinese parasol for a song at $5. or so.
>Only problem with it, it has those typical oriental
>water colour paintings all over it. I'd like to remove
>them if at all possible. I *think* the parasol cover
>is a poly of sorts and the paint seems fairly opaque
>so it's not necessarily stained the fabric. Any ideas
>what might lift it off without damaging the parasol
>itself? I can't paint over it, the painting will shine
>through anyway when the sun hits it. I'd like to turn
>this into a Romano-Venetian parasol and would prefer
>it without the pretty birdies.

What about recovering the frame with different fabric?  You might have to 
resort to that if the paint removal doesn't work.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman/Byzantine
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-------------- Original message -------------- 

> On Sunday 12 June 2005 10:52 am, Chris Laning wrote: 
> 
> > Susan Farmer wrote: 
> 
> No, actually the following comment was from me. 
> 
> > >You also need a fabric that can drape into fine folds and is not stiff. 
> > > The only fabrics I ever found that came reasonably close to this ideal 
> > > were a mystery fabric I bought from an SCA vendor which was sold to me as 
> > > "linen"--I'm not sure if it is, but I love the way it falls and wish I 
> > > had more of it. 
> 
Well, linen would be an excellent choice. It's usually a tad stiffer than rayon, but has the added advantage that is doesn't shrink (much), unlike rayon which seems to have the remarkable property of shrinking everytime it goes into the laundry. 
<snip> 
> 
> You could be right, I certainly can't rule rayon out without something like a 
> burn test. 
Since I frequent the Denver Fabric Annex, I often pick up fabric that certainly has some linen content, and very likely seems to have rayon as well. I've done a lot of burn tests, but I can't tell the difference between rayon and linen. They both have a yellow flame, smell alike, and the ash looks and feels the same. What else should I look for? 
Eirene
<snip> 
> 
> > I would suspect also that what the Greeks and Romans used (assuming the 
> > "drape" on statues is not artistic license!) may have been very fine linen, 
> > washed multiple times for softness, or perhaps a fine gauzy wool. Both, 
> > alas, very hard to find nowadays :) 
I believe that you are correct. The wool would have to be a worsted, and I think you'd have the devil's own time finding that. But light-weight almost see-through linens are pretty easy to find, if white's what you want. I really like www.fabrics-store.com; their IL020 is very nice, and is a deal if you opt for the bulk bolt. $118.98 for 20 yards is less then $6 a yard. 

Eirene
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: Historical Costume List <h-costume@net.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Chinese Parasol
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Hi again, I have been rudely remiss in thanking those
that have offered their advice and sympathy to my
dyeing dilemma not long ago. To which, the fustian
turned grey at best. Since then, I ran across a 100%
linen denim twill in black - needless to say my friend
and I grumbled - worse yet, it was like 6.50/yd. Ah,
such is life.

Anyway, I have a kinda-sorta-not-really OT question. I
picked up a chinese parasol for a song at $5. or so.
Only problem with it, it has those typical oriental
water colour paintings all over it. I'd like to remove
them if at all possible. I *think* the parasol cover
is a poly of sorts and the paint seems fairly opaque
so it's not necessarily stained the fabric. Any ideas
what might lift it off without damaging the parasol
itself? I can't paint over it, the painting will shine
through anyway when the sun hits it. I'd like to turn
this into a Romano-Venetian parasol and would prefer
it without the pretty birdies.

Thanks!

Kathy

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
An inordinate passion for pleasure is the secret of remaining young.
-Oscar Wilde

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eirenetz@comcast.net wrote:

> I also get some direction from: Late
> Antiquity, A guide to the Post-Classical World, G.W. Bowersock,
> et.al.1999, Harvard University Press, 0-674-51173-5 I bought this
> solely for the necklace in plate 23 (which pretty much debunks the
> "superhumeral" idea)

For those of us just reading along in the cheap seats, could you tell us 
what a "superhumeral" is and how the necklace debunks it?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"And the people next door oppress me all night long. I tell them, I work 
all day, a man's got to have some time to learn to play the tuba. That's 
oppression, that is. If I'm not under the heel of the oppressor, I don't 
know who is."  -- Terry Pratchett, _Guards, Guards_
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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 12:57:30 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese Parasol
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I have to agree with Carolyn. I have the most beautiful pale pink
parasol that I purchased with a group of friends during an event and
when I used it in an actual rain situation the colors ran and bled
as opposed to washing off. The image is permanently imprinted into
the fabric. Grant it rain water does have a tendency to clean colors
out of things that nothing else will (I think it is the oxygen
content) but I could tell that if I left it out in the rain the most
it would do would fade the images.

For what it is worth, it has cute birdies on it. :)

Chiara

On Mon, June 13, 2005 12:42 pm, Carolyn Kayta Barrows said:
>
>>Anyway, I have a kinda-sorta-not-really OT question. I
>>picked up a chinese parasol for a song at $5. or so.
>>Only problem with it, it has those typical oriental
>>water colour paintings all over it. I'd like to remove
>>them if at all possible. I *think* the parasol cover
>>is a poly of sorts and the paint seems fairly opaque
>>so it's not necessarily stained the fabric. Any ideas
>>what might lift it off without damaging the parasol
>>itself? I can't paint over it, the painting will shine
>>through anyway when the sun hits it. I'd like to turn
>>this into a Romano-Venetian parasol and would prefer
>>it without the pretty birdies.
>
> What about recovering the frame with different fabric?  You might
> have to
> resort to that if the paint removal doesn't work.
>
>
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
>
>               //// \\\
>              ////-@@\\\
>             ((((   7 )))
>              (((  <> ))))
>                 )   ((((((
>            /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 11:15:47 -0700
> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing skirts over pants
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <4.3.1.2.20050612110723.024f8ba8@mail.frys.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii";
> format=flowed
> 
> 
> >The other week I had to fly to a meeting, and I got
> off the plane and 
> >walked all the way into the terminal behind this
> young guy, I swear I 
> >thought his jeans were going to fall round his
> ankles any minute, there 
> >were several inches of underpant showing.
> 
> I guess I have a different perspective on what young
> people wear.  I see 
> these oddities as ways they have to try to upset us
> "older folks".  And I 
> can see, from the responses on this list, that
> they're doing a pretty good 
> job of it.  I smile at things like low-rider jeans,
> which I merely don't 
> like, and hope somebody shows these guys blackmail
> photos of themselves 
> when they get to be suit-wearing middle-aged
> businessmen.  
 Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 20:47:52 -0400
> From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] teen fashion
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <a05010401bed287241b4f@[209.249.180.253]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ;
> format="flowed"
> 
> Wendy said,
> >There's a new look up here (Winnipeg) of wearing
> jeans with one leg 
> >down to the ankle and the other rolled up to under
> the knee.
> >
> >I'm guessing some celebrity thought it was
> brilliant idea. It's 
> >going to leave interesting tan lines.
> 
>       I suppose you could alternate each day?  :-)
> 
>       Carolyn mentioned earlier how people dress in
> outrageous fashion 
> as teenagers, and then would be embarrassed to admit
> to it as adults. 
> As people interested in costume, I think we would be
> less likely to 
> feel that way.  I didn't like most of the trends out
> there when I was 
> a teenager.  If "everybody" did it, why bother? :-) 
> Either I liked 
> the style or I didn't, so there's no need for me to
> be embarrassed 
> about it later.  Except for things my mom bought for
> me....
> 
>       -Carol
> Message: 10
> Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 01:23:22 -0400
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] teen fashion
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <002401c56fd8$04b97810$0200a8c0@yourw04gtxld67>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed;
> charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=response
> 
> The one pants leg rolled up has been a teen fashion
> for a couple of years.  
> 
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com

The 'droopy pants' thing has been around for a long
while, too. I just hope by the time my boys are old
enough to want to 'dress trendy' that that fad is
LOOOOONG gone (but it's been around so long already
that I doubt it will be gone then, either). I have
seen guys getting out of cars & had their pants fall
to their ankles before they can do anything about it.
My dad has a funny story about watching a group of
guys coming home from church wearing their chior
robes... the one guy had his robe hiked up so he could
hold his pants up as he was running across the street.
Talk about an impractical fashion!
:}
tracy

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 20:38:39 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] 1640 stays
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Hi,
I found the red satin stays in Manchester Museum from about  1640-60, i 
would guess it is more 40 than 60 because of the high waist.

http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/object.php?irn=14962&themeback=3&CostumeTheme=Underwear


Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1640 stays
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> I found the red satin stays in Manchester Museum from about  1640-60, i 
> would guess it is more 40 than 60 because of the high waist.
> 
> http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/object.php?irn=14962&themeback=3&CostumeTheme=Underwear 
> 
> 


Mmmmn... Now I want a back view so I can see how those straps are 
attached behind. It looks like they fit over the upper arm, rather than 
on the shoulder.


Dawn

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1640 stays
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Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:

> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>> Hi,
>> I found the red satin stays in Manchester Museum from about  
>> 1640-60, i would guess it is more 40 than 60 because of the high 
>> waist.
>>
>> http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/object.php?irn=14962&themeback=3&CostumeTheme=Underwear
>
>
> Mmmmn... Now I want a back view so I can see how those straps are
> attached behind. It looks like they fit over the upper arm, rather than
> on the shoulder.
>

There is one down at the bottom of the page.  I didn't see it until I printed
the page out!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1640 stays
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> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>> Hi,
>> I found the red satin stays in Manchester Museum from about  1640-60, i
>> would guess it is more 40 than 60 because of the high waist.
>>
>> http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/object.php?irn=14962&themeback=3&CostumeTheme=Underwear
>>
>>
>
>
> Mmmmn... Now I want a back view so I can see how those straps are
> attached behind. It looks like they fit over the upper arm, rather than
> on the shoulder.
>
>
> Dawn


     There is a back view, and a side view, and a front detail.  Scroll
down and click on the thumbnails at the bottom.

     I was a bit surprised at the stitching around the eyelet holes - it's
very thick compared to what I'm used to for 18th century stays.  Is
this what people find more on 17thC items?

     -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Byzantine/late Roman costume
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-------------- Original message -------------- 

> eirenetz@comcast.net wrote: 
> 
> > I also get some direction from: Late 
> > Antiquity, A guide to the Post-Classical World, G.W. Bowersock, 
> > et.al.1999, Harvard University Press, 0-674-51173-5 I bought this 
> > solely for the necklace in plate 23 (which pretty much debunks the 
> > "superhumeral" idea) 
> 
> For those of us just reading along in the cheap seats, could you tell us 
> what a "superhumeral" is and how the necklace debunks it? 
> 

:-) Good point.
I'm not sure who coined the term, Norris or Houston, or someone else, but it's a term applied to the wide collar that Theodora wears in the Ravenna mosaic. "Super-" since it goes over everything, and "-humeral" because - well I don't "do" Latin, so I'm not sure. (Been language-impaired as long as I can remember.) 
There are several issues with the so-called superhumeral, not the least of which is that it doesn't seem to be described as such in surviving documents. And this underscores another issue with much of the Byzantine costuming resources out there, including Houston, Morris, and Veleda of Isenfir - if the names of the garments are in Latin, the work is based on old, out of date research. See, although what we call the Byzantine people were descended from - and in many cases still deeply connected to - the Romans, they spoke Greek as the vernacular. The clothing names applied by the early researchers were Latin, although in lots of cases they were at least partially made-up. More recent researchers have been using the terms for clothing that the Byzantines themselves used in extant docments, and those terms are Greek. 
It seems to be a mark of very high nobility, and therefore isn't seen but on a very few notable women. Royalty, for instance. In the Theodora mosaic, of the eight women depicted, only three are wearing some sort of necklace or collar. Theodora's is of course the widest and most elaborate. Of her two attendants, one has a collar of two rows of decoration with green drops, and the other wears something similar without the drops. A couple of the women might be wearing a little standing collar or choker, but only two are wearing what we would recognise as a "superhumeral". Based this sort of analysis, the current thinking is that this is not a common sort of decoration, and (at least in my opinion) isn't the sort of decoration that every SCA Byzantine woman should be wearing. Maybe with a very special occasion outfit, but not all the time. I personally don't have one at all, being of the craftsman class - the "high estate" of the Laurel wouldn't have been so high in that place a!
 nd time.
Thirdly, although it is commonly interpreted as a fabric bit with pearls and dropped beads, the existing examples are actually jewelry. There are some existing garments with a faux collar woven in, but there's no evidence that those fabric examples were over-beaded or otherwise embellished. The necklace to which I refered looks remarkably like the one worn by the third lady to Theodora's left. It's in gold and pearls and gemstones, and is, well, spectacular. And to logic in a slight circle, the lavishness of this collar is indicative of the *very* high rank of the wearer. Byzantine society was remarkably segmented; the rich were very rich, and the rest of the people were not what we'd consider even upper-class. There are quite a few bits if existing jewelry, but they are mostly bronze.  
In describing the "superhumeral" and associated concepts, I've enumerated some of the issues with Houston's and Norris' works, and with sites like http://www.gryph.com/byzantine/dress.htm that derrive information from them. However I do like this particular site, because Clare includes some existing garments and fabric fragments. I used to reccomend Houston and Norris for the very beginning Byzantine clothier, because they seemed to at least get the cut of the garments right, but I'm not very confident of that any more. 
Probably more information than you wanted.....
Eirene
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>>
>> Mmmmn... Now I want a back view so I can see how those straps are
>> attached behind. It looks like they fit over the upper arm, rather than
>> on the shoulder.
>>
> 
> There is one down at the bottom of the page.  I didn't see it until I 
> printed
> the page out!

Yeah, I noticed that about 30 seconds after hitting the 'send' button 
and making a fool out of myself. :)



Dawn


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eirenetz@comcast.net wrote:

>I'm not sure who coined the term, Norris or Houston, or someone else, but it's a term applied to the wide collar that Theodora wears in the Ravenna mosaic. "Super-" since it goes over everything, and "-humeral" because - well I don't "do" Latin, so 
>
You'll find it in church dictionaries:
superhumeral: ecclesiastical garment worn over the shoulders
so, not those necklaces specifically. Probably derived from humerus: of 
or pertaining to the upper arm

- Hope
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1640 stays
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Hi Carol,
As i recall, also the pink stays in V&A has rather thick stitching round the 
eyletholes, perhaps they laced tighter in 17th century?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1640 stays


>> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>> I found the red satin stays in Manchester Museum from about  1640-60, i
>>> would guess it is more 40 than 60 because of the high waist.
>>>
>>> http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/object.php?irn=14962&themeback=3&CostumeTheme=Underwear
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Mmmmn... Now I want a back view so I can see how those straps are
>> attached behind. It looks like they fit over the upper arm, rather than
>> on the shoulder.
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>
>
>     There is a back view, and a side view, and a front detail.  Scroll
> down and click on the thumbnails at the bottom.
>
>     I was a bit surprised at the stitching around the eyelet holes - it's
> very thick compared to what I'm used to for 18th century stays.  Is
> this what people find more on 17thC items?
>
>     -Carol
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From: eirenetz@comcast.net
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Byzantine/late Roman costume
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Ahhh, ecclesiastical. Perhaps applied by Norris/Houston, but not really descriptive of the Byzantine collar. Thanks!  

Eirene

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> eirenetz@comcast.net wrote: 
> 
> >I'm not sure who coined the term, Norris or Houston, or someone else, but it's 
> a term applied to the wide collar that Theodora wears in the Ravenna mosaic. 
> "Super-" since it goes over everything, and "-humeral" because - well I don't 
> "do" Latin, so 
> > 
> You'll find it in church dictionaries: 
> superhumeral: ecclesiastical garment worn over the shoulders 
> so, not those necklaces specifically. Probably derived from humerus: of 
> or pertaining to the upper arm 
> 
> - Hope 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1640 stays
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Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:

>>>
>>> Mmmmn... Now I want a back view so I can see how those straps are
>>> attached behind. It looks like they fit over the upper arm, rather than
>>> on the shoulder.
>>>
>>
>> There is one down at the bottom of the page.  I didn't see it until 
>> I printed
>> the page out!
>
> Yeah, I noticed that about 30 seconds after hitting the 'send' button
> and making a fool out of myself. :)
>

Well, I wouldn't exactly go *that* far ...  :-)  You haven't seen some of the
things that I've done!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese Parasol
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>For what it is worth, it has cute birdies on it. :)

So save the birdies, maybe frame them, when you remove the existing cover 
to replace it.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: new belly styles was Re: [h-cost] bustle or natural form era
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> Is this the new grunge?

It's been going on for a few seasons around here, probably in the third or 
fourth summer of the fashion (here being Montreal). To the point where I've 
stopped noticing. It's probably already starting to go away.  The new thing 
this year is to wear 2 or even 3 tank tops in contrasting colours. 
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Thank you for the site. My sister loves this era's style.

De
-----Original Message-----
For the skirt, we started out with an Ageless Pattern
(http://www.agelesspatterns.com) but even though the
picture looks like the skirt we made, the pattern was
for something MUCH simpler.  So we really had to make
that mostly on our own.  The bodice I patterned
myself.

Thank you all for the compliments. :)


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In a message dated 6/13/2005 6:35:59 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
audreybmorin2@hotmail.com writes:

The new  thing 
this year is to wear 2 or even 3 tank tops in contrasting colours.  



Now see, this is funny to me, in a way.  My daughter wears shirts that  
/look/ like she has on several different shirts layered over each other.   Reminds 
me a lot of the false puffs and other fashionable artifices of days gone  by.  
If you were to look at a photo of her, you would swear she had on  several 
shirts.  Guess that just goes to show that a picture may be worth a  thousand 
words, but sometimes you just never really know what is being worn  unless you 
have the garment(s) in front of you to get up close and personal  with.
 
:)
~Kimberley
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: new belly styles/ things aren't always what they
	seem...
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>
> In a message dated 6/13/2005 6:35:59 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> audreybmorin2@hotmail.com writes:
>
> The new  thing
> this year is to wear 2 or even 3 tank tops in contrasting colours.
>
>
>
> Now see, this is funny to me, in a way.  My daughter wears shirts that
> /look/ like she has on several different shirts layered over each other.

 but sometimes you just never
> really know what is being worn  unless you  have the garment(s) in front
> of you to get up close and personal  with.
>
> :)
> ~Kimberley

My daughter has a couple tees which are faded and worn to a thread it
seems, but she bought them that way.  they are called tissue tees and if
you go into some of the stores, maybe GAP?  you will see tissue tanks or
whatever they call them, sold to be worn over each other.   they would be
considered indecent if worn alone, they are see through.   Kitty


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Subject: Re: new belly styles was Re: [h-cost] bustle or natural formera movies
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 21:42:31 -0400
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> Various bits of puppy fat are proudly on display in clothes - often 
> tracksuits with baggy legs are worn low on the hips, and (whisper it ) 
> underpants show above the waistband - so ugly.

Last summer, it was *thongs* showing above the waistband. UGH! This year 
it's mostly boxers. Or often a fake waistband that looks like underpants. 
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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 23:37:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] chinese parasols and beads
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Ah well... I was hoping that there was a miracle out
there that would strip it off without removing it. One
more project that went from quick to complicated in
one easy step. I have a knack for finding those
projects. Hmm.... I wonder if pressurised water shot
from behind would push the bulk of it off? Musing at
the moment... 

Onto the next question.... I have a bunch of beading
to do, too many projects and not enough time. I know
they exist but no idea what the name of the little
machine that does it is called that appliques beads
onto fabric surfaces. I am fairly certain it's not
practical for the application, but for the excercise,
does anyone out there know what its called, where one
would find such a beast and what cost might it be?

Thanks!

Kathy

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
An inordinate passion for pleasure is the secret of remaining young.
-Oscar Wilde

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1640 stays
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The waist doesn't seem high to me; it suggests the narrow-waisted drop-shouldered look of the 1650s. My 1630s-40s stays don't reach below my ribcage (except for the centre front) and I wear a bumroll round my waist to give me the "bulky" look of the Hollar ladies.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> drewscph@post12.tele.dk 13/06/2005 19:38 >>>
Hi,
I found the red satin stays in Manchester Museum from about  1640-60, i 
would guess it is more 40 than 60 because of the high waist.

http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/object.php?irn=14962&themeback=3&CostumeTheme=Underwear 


Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk 

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: new belly styles, modern fashion 
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I keep hearing that they're bringing back the super-preppy, tailored and 
detailed fashions of the 50s and early 60s.  Why don't I see it?  Grumble.

I'm going to just go with my plan of making & wearing whatever I want.  If I 
ever get around to it.  Why is it so hard for me to make time to sew 
'normal' everyday clothes for myself?

-E House 

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I know what you mean.  I started sewing my own clothes for work last January, after I had my carpal tunnel release surgery, because I just liked that look.  Plus, I couldn't do any of my costumey sewing because the weight of the fabric for them was too much for me.  Even now, I can't handle too much fabric in a garment.

I've got a 'shell' dress/blouse pattern and a-line skirt that I just love.  Now that I've lost more weight, I need to make more...such fun!
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> I keep hearing that they're bringing back the super-preppy, tailored and 
> detailed fashions of the 50s and early 60s. Why don't I see it? Grumble. 
> 
> I'm going to just go with my plan of making & wearing whatever I want. If I 
> ever get around to it. Why is it so hard for me to make time to sew 
> 'normal' everyday clothes for myself? 
> 
> -E House 
> 
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Eirine -- Thanks for the info! At the last SCA event I went to (I'm not technically a member, I just like to turn up at the costuming events), there was this lady with this "superhumeral" that was made out of padded gold lame with about ten pounds of glass beads sewn on it in no apparent pattern. Everybody was giving her all these compliments, but I thought it looked terrible, because I'd already assumed they were made out of metal. Now I feel vindicated. :) 
 
That event was part of what sparked my initial questions; I sat in this class that was supposed to be Roman and Byzantine costume, (Turned out to be more like Greek/early Roman costume, not that I mind, but I wish the title of the class had reflected the actual subject matter) and everything the teacher said about Byzantine costume contradicted what I'd already been able to find out from my meager research. 
 
Didn't the Egyptians wear a metal collar sort of like the superhumeral? How was that made? 
 
Thanks for all the info, everybody. I've been looking at all the books that were suggested, and I think I'm going to buy the ones by Kalavrezou and Bowersock, if I can't get them at the library, that is. The others seem to focus on a later period than I'm interested in. 
 
Eirine -- any chance we could see some pictures of your Byzantine garb?
 
Tea Rose
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Not long ago I was e-mailing with someone about costume, and that person
mentioned in passing knowing a certain researcher (possibly a professor at
her college/university?) who had done a paper on Turkish-style turbans in
medieval art. I cannot find my copies of that correspondence, but it was
very likely someone on this list. If you recognize yourself in that
description, please e-mail me directly. Thanks!

--Robin

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eirenetz@comcast.net wrote:
> Probably more information than you wanted.....

Nope.  That was a great overview, thanks!

Is this info becoming known in the costuming circles?  How likely is it 
that someone interested in that period find out it wasn't fabric?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"And the people next door oppress me all night long. I tell them, I work 
all day, a man's got to have some time to learn to play the tuba. That's 
oppression, that is. If I'm not under the heel of the oppressor, I don't 
know who is."  -- Terry Pratchett, _Guards, Guards_
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: A busk, looking for pictures, late16th c
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.> I'm working on a very late Elizabethan with a drum farthingale, the
>head-on-a platter ruff, you know that look.  "All I need..." you know
>you've said that... "is a busk".  ...

I'm on a quest for pictures, drawings of real turn of the 17th century
busks (plus or minus 50 years).  I've heard rumor of a tortoise shell
one in/near London (google failed me), found the 18th c scrimshaw one
and found a zillion people recommending paint stirrers as busks.  Not
what I'm looking for.

What I hope to find is pictographic evidence on how to attach the busk
points (laces).  Do they go thru holes in the busk? do they join thru
or to a corset?  Are they simply attached to the sarcenet busk casing?
 Are busk laces attached permanently so that giving busk laces to your
paramour is something best at home? Does the lace pass thru some combo
of corset, casing & busk meaning that to acquire a lace means the
lover has some detailed, intimate knowledge of womens' costume?

Thanks h-costumers,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: A busk, looking for pictures, late16th c


(snip)
> I'm on a quest for pictures, drawings of real turn of the 17th century 
> busks (plus or minus 50 years).  I've heard rumor of a tortoise shell one 
> in/near London (google failed me), found the 18th c scrimshaw one and 
> found a zillion people recommending paint stirrers as busks.  Not
> what I'm looking for.
>
> What I hope to find is pictographic evidence on how to attach the busk 
> points (laces).  Do they go thru holes in the busk? do they join thru or 
> to a corset?  Are they simply attached to the sarcenet busk casing?
> Are busk laces attached permanently so that giving busk laces to your 
> paramour is something best at home? Does the lace pass thru some combo of 
> corset, casing & busk meaning that to acquire a lace means the
> lover has some detailed, intimate knowledge of womens' costume?
>
> Thanks h-costumers,
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com

I've got pictures somewhere, and I'll try to find and post them, of the 
attachments.  I've seen holes in the busk that correspond to eyelets in the 
corset, with ribbon points to thread through both and tie.  That's the 
method I use for my 17th cen. corsets.  I've also seen one that seemed to 
have an extra long casing for the busk, with eyelets through both coset and 
busk pocket, so that the ribbon didn't pass through the busk at all, but 
closed the busk pocket.

The best pictures of very early busks I have found by haunting the antique 
auction sites.  I actually own a few, but the earliest one I have is from 
the late 18th century.  It's a bit larger than the ones I use for my 17th 
cen. corsets, or for the earlier 18th cen. ones, for that matter.

Melusine 

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Hello!

There is a wonderful on-line exhibit at the Victoria and Albert museum,
with some of Queen Maud of Norway's gowns. Early 1900's stuff, very
nice!

Kate McClure
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Thanks for pointing this out, Kate. The url is http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1333_styleandsplendour/index.html

Anecdote about Queen Maud (we have family friends in Norway from when my father was stationed there at the end of WW2) - Apparently when travelling to and from England by sea she used to sit in the passenger lounge knitting.


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> kate.mcclure@dexmedia.com 14/06/2005 18:08 >>>
Hello!

There is a wonderful on-line exhibit at the Victoria and Albert museum,
with some of Queen Maud of Norway's gowns. Early 1900's stuff, very
nice!

Kate McClure
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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There is also a book about the exhibit. I read about it in Piecework?
Threads? They both come to my house within a day or two of each other
and I sometimes can't remember what I read in which one.

LynnD


On 6/14/05, Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:
> Thanks for pointing this out, Kate. The url is http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1333_styleandsplendour/index.html
> 
> Anecdote about Queen Maud (we have family friends in Norway from when my father was stationed there at the end of WW2) - Apparently when travelling to and from England by sea she used to sit in the passenger lounge knitting.
> 
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
> 
> >>> kate.mcclure@dexmedia.com 14/06/2005 18:08 >>>
> Hello!
> 
> There is a wonderful on-line exhibit at the Victoria and Albert museum,
> with some of Queen Maud of Norway's gowns. Early 1900's stuff, very
> nice!
> 
> Kate McClure
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Ah well... I was hoping that there was a miracle out
there that would strip it off without removing it. 

*snip*

Just a passing thought. Have you tried softening the paint? I don't know
if it would work in this instance, but I've had good luck with Goo
Gone(tm) removing things and leaving the base color intact. It also
hasn't harmed any of my fabric (yet, knock wood).

Kate McClure
Who manages to complicate projects without any outside help, whether
they need it or not!

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From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] new belly styles, modern fashion
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Ya know, of all the stupid and ugly fashions to be seen out there, this is the only one that really offends me.  The others, like boxers showing above pants and mohawk hairdos I can just quietly snigger at.  A thong showing above hip hugger pants is just gross - and even more gross on a heavy girl.
Julie
> 
> Last summer, it was *thongs* showing above the waistband. UGH! This year 
> it's mostly boxers. Or often a fake waistband that looks like underpants. 
> 
 

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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Check the V&A
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Hi,
 
It's listed on the site for 30 pound British.  To rich for me right now (DARN IT)  Such work!
 
Thanks for the heads up,
 
Chris G.

Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
There is also a book about the exhibit. I read about it in Piecework?
Threads? They both come to my house within a day or two of each other
and I sometimes can't remember what I read in which one.

LynnD


On 6/14/05, Kate M Bunting wrote:
> Thanks for pointing this out, Kate. The url is http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1333_styleandsplendour/index.html
> 
> Anecdote about Queen Maud (we have family friends in Norway from when my father was stationed there at the end of WW2) - Apparently when travelling to and from England by sea she used to sit in the passenger lounge knitting.
> 
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
> 
> >>> kate.mcclure@dexmedia.com 14/06/2005 18:08 >>>
> Hello!
> 
> There is a wonderful on-line exhibit at the Victoria and Albert museum,
> with some of Queen Maud of Norway's gowns. Early 1900's stuff, very
> nice!
> 
> Kate McClure
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Subject: [h-cost] Houppelande sleeves
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Hi Folks!

I'm working on a theory.  The theory is that if a houppelande has 
trumpet or angelwing sleeves (these are the big open sleeves, not with a 
cuff) then they are always at least as long as the hem of the body of 
the houppelande, if not longer.

Never a knee-length man's houppelande with sleeves only to the waist or 
a woman's floor-or-longer with sleeves only to the knee.

Have you run into any medieval contradictions to this theory?

(For example, my wedding houp is in violation of this: 
http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/fandc.jpg  (excuse: I bought the 
fabric to make *one* houp and then we decided we wanted matching ones... 
and it was 8 years ago....)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"And the people next door oppress me all night long. I tell them, I work 
all day, a man's got to have some time to learn to play the tuba. That's 
oppression, that is. If I'm not under the heel of the oppressor, I don't 
know who is."  -- Terry Pratchett, _Guards, Guards_
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun 14 17:39:14 2005
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1890s and Social Classes
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Thank you Kayta!  I forgot about rayon.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Stomacher question
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Status: RO

The 1640 stays reminded me of a question I've had for a while (and if 
the answer's come up again in the last school year, I've managed to miss 
it in my skimming)...


Does anyone happen to know when the use of stomachers *behind 
front-lacings* came about?

-Elisabeth

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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
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The new thing 
this year is to wear 2 or even 3 tank tops in contrasting colours. 

I used to do this when I was a teen back in the late 1980's...  Turquoise over Hot pink over Neon yellow was one Combo I used....


> Various bits of puppy fat are proudly on display in clothes - often 
> tracksuits with baggy legs are worn low on the hips, and (whisper it ) 
> underpants show above the waistband - so ugly.

I agree it is awlful to look at! I think all low riders are ugly I do not care how good your figure is you just look cheap and easy to me not one who wants  any respect.... 



Onto the next question.... I have a bunch of beading
to do, too many projects and not enough time. I know
they exist but no idea what the name of the little
machine that does it is called that appliques beads
onto fabric surfaces. I am fairly certain it's not
practical for the application, but for the excercise,
does anyone out there know what its called, where one
would find such a beast and what cost might it be?

Thanks!


Are you talking about the Beaddazzler??? try Possibly Hobby Lobby, or Michael's as for price I do not remember what they cost. best guestimate between 25-50 USD depending on Model... its only a guess though.. Hope it helps/// 


Eirine -- Thanks for the info! At the last SCA event I went to (I'm not technically a member, I just like to turn up at the costuming events), there was this lady with this "superhumeral" that was made out of padded gold lame with about ten pounds of glass beads sewn on it in no apparent pattern. Everybody was giving her all these compliments, but I thought it looked terrible, because I'd already assumed they were made out of metal. Now I feel vindicated. :) 

THE SAC is such a funny place to play! One does not have to be a member to play, get awards, help out etc... 

That event was part of what sparked my initial questions; I sat in this class that was supposed to be Roman and Byzantine costume, (Turned out to be more like Greek/early Roman costume, not that I mind, but I wish the title of the class had reflected the actual subject matter) and everything the teacher said about Byzantine costume contradicted what I'd already been able to find out from my meager research. 
I would love to have been there and gotten some of her resources..... I have been finding that Nyzantine is such a fussy subject as far a sschools of thought.. I am all confused by it! 


Didn't the Egyptians wear a metal collar sort of like the superhumeral? How was that made? 

I do not know about a metal Collar.  however I have been trying to Find a Beaded Version  with Lapis Lazuli and other beads in it..I once heard about.. or am I hearing things???? I am new to the Whole Byzantine, Egyptian garb.. since its probably going to be a really HOT and Muggy  summer here in Windsor I thught I would try to vary my garb into something other than gypsy and Turkish...  Any Help amnd Suggestions woudl be greatly appreciated for Byzantine and Egyptian.. Thanks!


Thanks 

Satine



		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun 14 19:31:41 2005
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Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2005 15:05:39 -0400
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Boston Area Sari Trunk Show
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For those near Cambridge, Massachusetts: On Saturday and Sunday, June 25 and
26, from 11 am to 5 pm each day, I will be hosting a sari trunk show with
Melinda Williams of Sari Safari (sarisafari.com). Melinda will be showing
her latest stock from her recent trip to India; expect many beautiful yet
affordable silks, plus new tribal cottons, and other surprises.

I will also have on hand some Indian block-printed yard goods, dupattas, and
cotton print saris for those who are interested.

Please e-mail me off-list for directions to my house. I hope to see some of
you then!
Best,
Lauren

-- 
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net
-- 
"One does not need buildings, money, power, or status to practice the Art of
Peace. Heaven is right where you are standing, and that is the place to
train." -- Morihei Ueshiba

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Suzi,

Matthew McFadyen (sp) YUUUUMMMMM    Worth seeing that one I think.  Is
he going to dive into the drink like Colin Firth?  Nice

Rhonda

Rhonda Donaldson
LTA II
e-Reserves Jr. Guru in Training
Circulation Department
Downtown Campus Library
P O Box 6069
Morgantown, WV
26506
293-4040 x4094
rhonda.donaldson@mail.wvu.edu

"Without change, something sleeps inside us, and seldom
awakens. The sleeper must awaken."
--Frank Herbert

"The future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their
dreams."
- Eleanor Roosevelt



>>> suzi@suziclarke.co.uk 6/7/2005 2:22:36 PM >>>
At 20:13 07/06/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Have you seen the trailer of the new Pride and Prejudice?
>The time is set to 1795.
>How do you think the costumes are?
>http://movies.yahoo.com/feature/prideandprejudice.html 
>Bjarne


Personal opinion only. I think these costumes bear very little
relationship 
to 1795. Judi Dench, who is "posh" is wearing clothes from the 1780's
at 
the latest, and so are many of the older women. No attempt seems to
have 
been made to give the leading actresses anything like the right period
hair 
styles. The dresses look limp and skimpy, and the coat that Keira
Knightley 
is seen in beggars description. I for one will not be paying good money
to 
see this. There are enough fashion plates and paintings about for the 
designer to look at. Why didn't he/she? Or if they did, the
interpretation 
is not what mine would have been.

Can you tell I don't like it?

Suzi


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: new belly styles, modern fashion 
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The next step in fashion is the late 70s, early `80s, so there might be some
tailoring. Disco, revamped to Punk (or puke depending on the style)

De

-----Original Message-----
I keep hearing that they're bringing back the super-preppy, tailored and
detailed fashions of the 50s and early 60s.  Why don't I see it?  Grumble.



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Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2005 15:16:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] translation please ...
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Can anyone translate this for me please? .... specifically:

From: http://www.istorija.lt/le/

Merkienë, Irena Regina; Pautieniûtë-Banionienë, Marija. Lietuvininkø
pirðtinës : kultûrø kryþkelëje, Vilnius. 1998. 212 p. – (Lietuvos
etnologija; 3). (Tekstai lietuviø ir anglø kalbomis).

It is a book about gloves found in ancient Lithuanian. Please ....
help! I NEED this book! :)

Chiara
the glove maker

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: new belly styles, modern fashion 
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2005 19:38:26 -0400
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The disco fashion are here for this summer.  Have you seen the Old Navy 
commercials for the Big Skirts?  LOL!  Their claim they are something new. 
I had a big disco skirt like this in the late 1970s that I made from a 
pattern by the Big 3 companies.  My husband died laughing when he saw the 
commercial.  He said, "You used to wear a skirt like that when we went disco 
dancing."  I do have to admit they are fun skirts to wear.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] translation please ...
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Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio wrote:

> Can anyone translate this for me please? .... specifically:
> 
> From: http://www.istorija.lt/le/
> 
> Merkienë, Irena Regina; Pautieniûtë-Banionienë, Marija. Lietuvininkø
> pirðtinës : kultûrø kryþkelëje, Vilnius. 1998. 212 p. – (Lietuvos
> etnologija; 3). (Tekstai lietuviø ir anglø kalbomis).
> 
> It is a book about gloves found in ancient Lithuanian. Please ....
> help! I NEED this book! :)

According to the site, the title is "Lithuanian Gloves in Lithuania Minor".

There are links to the forward and conclusions in English:

http://www.istorija.lt/le/merkiene1998_foreword.html
http://www.istorija.lt/le/merkiene1998_conclusions.html

I checked the OCLC, and there are six copies in the US (none close to 
Texas, unfortunately) and one in Canada.  You might want to try 
interlibrary loan before buying a copy; that's what I often do.  The 
OCLC translates the title as "Gloves of Lithuania Minor:  at the 
cross-roads of cultures".  The listing also states that the book is in 
Lithuanian and English.

--Charlene

-- 
Signs that you're a Reenactor:  No one will attend a historical film 
with you. -- http://www.gwerin.org.uk/silly/signs_that_you.htm
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Houppelande sleeves
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On Tue, 14 Jun 2005, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> I'm working on a theory.  The theory is that if a houppelande has
> trumpet or angelwing sleeves (these are the big open sleeves, not with
> a cuff) then they are always at least as long as the hem of the body
> of the houppelande, if not longer.
> 
> Never a knee-length man's houppelande with sleeves only to the waist
> or a woman's floor-or-longer with sleeves only to the knee.
> 
> Have you run into any medieval contradictions to this theory?

Any theory that includes "always" and "never" is an easy target. ;-)
I gave it 10 minutes at my bookshelf and found some exceptions. One
clearly secular example being in Gaston Phoebus's Hunting Book, a scene in
which the lord is instructing his hunters; the lord is in a sumptuous
floor-length houppelande of blue-and-gold brocade with sleeves noticeably
shorter.

You'll find a good lot of exceptions in brasses, as well. Do you have
Scott's Visual History of Costume? See figures 42, 48, 52. These are
middle-to-upper-class people, of course; very long sleeves would have been
a mark of great wealth. Even on the brasses, though, the later you go, the
longer the sleeves, so perhaps it's a time thing (and they're eventually
replaced with bag sleeves, which do routinely come shorter, as you
noticed).

Some exceptions are not as clear-cut, e.g. wide sleeves that hang only a
foot or so off the wrist; are these still trumpet sleeves? (See Scott,
fig. 40, for an example.)  For that matter, you'll never find a
"waist-length" sleeve by definition, since your *elbows* reach to your
waist, and any wide sleeve will hang lower.

All that said, I think it's safe to say your rule of thumb describes
typical style, though not universal.

--Robin

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Egyptian broad collar
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The Eyptian bead collars are fairly broad, about a
hands-width, and all of beads with thread holding them
together (replacement in most to all of the museum
holdings I've seen strung), and counterweights in the
back, as it is open like a 'C'.  The two ends of the C
hang down over either shoulder and have a weight on
each to balance all the beads in front.
Semi-precious stones, gold, and faiance, mostly.

Ann in CT
visits the Met

--- Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com> wrote:

> 
> Didn't the Egyptians wear a metal collar sort of
> like the superhumeral? How was that made? 
> 
> I do not know about a metal Collar.  however I have
> been trying to Find a Beaded Version  with Lapis
> Lazuli and other beads in it..I once heard about..
> or am I hearing things???? 
> 
> Satine


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] translation please ...
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2005 19:07:48 -0500
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Thanks! I just did not know which translator to use to get the title. :)

(`'·.¸(`'·.¸(`'·.¸¸.·'´)¸.· '´)¸.·'´)
«·.·*¨`·¤ Chiara ¤·´¨*·.·»
(¸.·'´(¸.·'´(¸.·'´`'·.¸)`'· .¸)`'·.¸)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charlene Charette" <perronnelle@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] translation please ...


: Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio wrote:
:
: > Can anyone translate this for me please? .... specifically:
: >
: > From: http://www.istorija.lt/le/
: >
: > Merkienë, Irena Regina; Pautieniûtë-Banionienë, Marija. Lietuvininkø
: > pirðtinës : kultûrø kryþkelëje, Vilnius. 1998. 212 p. – (Lietuvos
: > etnologija; 3). (Tekstai lietuviø ir anglø kalbomis).
: >
: > It is a book about gloves found in ancient Lithuanian. Please ....
: > help! I NEED this book! :)
:
: According to the site, the title is "Lithuanian Gloves in Lithuania 
Minor".
:
: There are links to the forward and conclusions in English:
:
: http://www.istorija.lt/le/merkiene1998_foreword.html
: http://www.istorija.lt/le/merkiene1998_conclusions.html
:
: I checked the OCLC, and there are six copies in the US (none close to
: Texas, unfortunately) and one in Canada.  You might want to try
: interlibrary loan before buying a copy; that's what I often do.  The
: OCLC translates the title as "Gloves of Lithuania Minor:  at the
: cross-roads of cultures".  The listing also states that the book is in
: Lithuanian and English.
:
: --Charlene
:
: -- 
: Signs that you're a Reenactor:  No one will attend a historical film
: with you. -- http://www.gwerin.org.uk/silly/signs_that_you.htm
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun 14 20:37:00 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Egyptian broad collar
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2005 20:35:56 -0400
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Satine,

The name of it is called a pectoral necklace.  I have seen one in an exhibit 
with lapis.  This p. necklace I didn't see counter-weight in the back and 
the two ends almost met.  The pectoral necklace is different from a regular 
necklace because it looks like a broad collar.  Where regular necklace just 
hang and do not lay broadly on the chest, shoulders, and back.

In the exhibit book, "Treasures of Tutankhamun", there is a pectoral 
necklace with the description:
Plate 13:
This superb gold collar, inlaid with colored glass, was placed on the chest 
of Tut.'s mummy.  In the form of the vulture goddess Nekhbet, it was 
intended to provide magical protection.

The pectoral necklace for the outer coffin (maybe middle coffin) has lapis 
on it.  The coffin is ormentented with lapis on several places.  The book 
does show a necklace (not pectoral) with lapis.

I have also seen the pectoral necklace worn by Rames in film, The Ten 
Commandments.  What a beautiful piece of work!  This piece is owned by a 
private collector.  If you didn't know it was made in the 20th Century, you 
would think it was an original to Ancient Egypt.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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A nice link about pectoral necklaces is 
http://www.sis.gov.eg/women/fashion/html/anc5.htm  Not many images but some 
interesting descriptions.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Oh, this is too cool!  A King Tut exhibit in LA.  Go see: 
http://www.kingtut.org/

Penny Ladnier, owner
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Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Robin Netherton wrote:

> Any theory that includes "always" and "never" is an easy target. ;-)

It's the worm on the hook of inquiry.  (Worked, too!)  Thank you!

> I gave it 10 minutes at my bookshelf and found some exceptions. One
> clearly secular example being in Gaston Phoebus's Hunting Book, a scene in
> which the lord is instructing his hunters; the lord is in a sumptuous
> floor-length houppelande of blue-and-gold brocade with sleeves noticeably
> shorter.

I'll hunt that down.  I know the images have been webbed.

> You'll find a good lot of exceptions in brasses, as well. Do you have
> Scott's Visual History of Costume?

I've had it on a booksearch for years, but it's always way too 
expensive, sigh.  (The specific centuries 14th-15th c. one, that is. 
The survey one is far less useful, but easily available, last time I 
checked.)

> All that said, I think it's safe to say your rule of thumb describes
> typical style, though not universal.

Okay.  I've been mulling it over as another example of "not enough 
fabric in the recreated clothes" problem, similar to women's houps that 
stop at the ankle, etc.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"And the people next door oppress me all night long. I tell them, I work 
all day, a man's got to have some time to learn to play the tuba. That's 
oppression, that is. If I'm not under the heel of the oppressor, I don't 
know who is."  -- Terry Pratchett, _Guards, Guards_
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Satine wrote:
I would love to have been there and gotten some of her resources..... I have 
been finding that Nyzantine is such a fussy subject as far a sschools of 
thought.. I am all confused by it! 

 
My point was that I don't think that teacher had any sources. She seemed knowledgeable about Greek and Roman costume, but she only mentioned Byzantium because half of her class was dressed that way (the title of her class _did_ include Byzantium), but I don't think she really knew anything about it. You must have missed our recent conversation about Byzantine costumes; I'll e-mail you off list with a summary, or you can check the archives. :)
 
Tea Rose
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Drea Leed has a hilarious article on her costume website about the 
"Superwide" style of pants (i.e. low riders). She wrote it several years 
ago in response to my comment that future costume historians will wonder 
"How DID they keep their pants up?" As far as I know it's not linked to 
anything else on her site, but I checked and it's still there:

http://costume.dm.net/superwides.htm

At 05:58 PM 6/14/2005, you wrote:
> > Various bits of puppy fat are proudly on display in clothes - often
> > tracksuits with baggy legs are worn low on the hips, and (whisper it )
> > underpants show above the waistband - so ugly.
>
>I agree it is awlful to look at! I think all low riders are ugly I do not 
>care how good your figure is you just look cheap and easy to me not one 
>who wants  any respect....

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0  Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
0  <http://paternoster-row.org>  <http://paternosters.blogspot.com>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------  


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Rogers, Penelope.  "Cloth and Clothing in Anglo-Saxon England, AD  450-700".  
250 p, 100 illus, paperback.  1902771540, $39.95.   Council for British 
Archaeology, December 2005
 
from The David Brown Book Company (_www.davidbrownbookco.com_ 
(http://www.davidbrownbookco.com/) ):
 
This archaeological study of textiles and costume considers all aspects  of 
early Anglo-Saxon clothing -- how textiles were made in the early  Anglo-Saxon 
settlements, how the cloth was fashioned into garments and the  nature of the 
clasps and jewellery with which the cloths were worn.   Drawing on the 
author's 38 years of experience, and a database of 3,800 finds,  it includes a review 
of the primary evidence from 162 Anglo-Saxon cemeteries,  where small 
fragments of the dead's clothes have been preserved with brooches,  pins, and 
necklaces.  Regional styles of dress, the social and cultural  meaning behind 
changing fashions, the role of women in textile production, and  Scandinavian and 
Continental influences help to place the study in its  broadest historical and 
archaeological context.  The volume is amply  illustrated with line drawings of 
craft processes and reconstructions of  individual costumes.
 
Contents
 
Introduction
Manufacturing textiles
Textile products
Clothing accessories
Reconstructing the clothing
Drawing conclusions
Bibliography
Index
 
(This will be a grand companion book to Owen-Crocker's newly-revised and  
edited, "Anglo-Saxon Dress and Clothing".)
 
Please pass this information to any groups who might be interested.
 
Nancy  

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 
Ingvild  Josefsdatter, OL
Bright Hills, Atlantia

"But if by a 'Liberal' they  mean someone who looks ahead and not behind, 
someone who welcomes new ideas  without rigid reactions, someone who cares about 
the welfare of the people --  their health, their housing, their schools, 
their jobs, their civil rights,  and their civil liberties -- someone who believes 
we can break through the  stalemate and suspicions that grip us in our 
policies abroad, if that is what  they mean by a 'Liberal,' then I'm proud to say 
I'm a 'Liberal'." John F.  Kennedy, 14 Sept 1960




 

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basyefelton@floodcity.net wrote
>>
>> In a message dated 6/13/2005 6:35:59 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> audreybmorin2@hotmail.com writes:
>>
>> The new  thing
>> this year is to wear 2 or even 3 tank tops in contrasting colours.
>>
>>
>>
>> Now see, this is funny to me, in a way.  My daughter wears shirts that
>> /look/ like she has on several different shirts layered over each other.
>
> but sometimes you just never
>> really know what is being worn  unless you  have the garment(s) in front
>> of you to get up close and personal  with.
>>
>> :)
>> ~Kimberley
>
>My daughter has a couple tees which are faded and worn to a thread it
>seems, but she bought them that way.  they are called tissue tees and if
>you go into some of the stores, maybe GAP?  you will see tissue tanks or
>whatever they call them, sold to be worn over each other.   they would be
>considered indecent if worn alone, they are see through.   Kitty
>
I was looking for jeans last week, and seeing "pre-distressed" ones with 
fake tears and worn patches.  I thought, if I didn't mind going out in 
jeans that looked like that I wouldn't be bothering to buy new ones!

Jean
-- 
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I have seen little other than the Arnold images. Please keep us posted on 
what you find out.

Beth

At 01:00 PM 6/15/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2005 10:42:23 -0400
>From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
>Subject: [h-cost] question about stockings
>
>
>Hi there folks.
>
>We over on the H-knit list have been having a 'discussion' about the
>stockings of Eleanora de Toledo.  We have hashed the English resources to
>death.  I'm wondering if anyone on this list knows some Spanish or Italian
>costume resources - or better yet textile related journals - that have
>published an analysis of these items.
>
>I really am looking for a thorough analysis of them.  Like I said,  Spanish
>or Italian resources would be where I would expect to find something, and
>be able to read it.
>
>Any ideas... I don't even need a specific article.  Just a journal name or
>historical society to start my queries with.   I already have plans of
>speaking to the museum.
>
>Thanks,
>Mari  /  Bridgette
>
>Mari Stewart
>Webmaster
>College of Veterinary Medicine
>Cornell University

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Hi there folks.

We over on the H-knit list have been having a 'discussion' about the 
stockings of Eleanora de Toledo.  We have hashed the English resources to 
death.  I'm wondering if anyone on this list knows some Spanish or Italian 
costume resources - or better yet textile related journals - that have 
published an analysis of these items.

I really am looking for a thorough analysis of them.  Like I said,  Spanish 
or Italian resources would be where I would expect to find something, and 
be able to read it.

Any ideas... I don't even need a specific article.  Just a journal name or 
historical society to start my queries with.   I already have plans of 
speaking to the museum.

Thanks,
Mari  /  Bridgette

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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Satine wrote:
I would love to have been there and gotten some of her resources..... I have 
been finding that Nyzantine is such a fussy subject as far a sschools of 
thought.. I am all confused by it! 

 
My point was that I don't think that teacher had any sources. She seemed knowledgeable about Greek and Roman costume, but she only mentioned Byzantium because half of her class was dressed that way (the title of her class _did_ include Byzantium), but I don't think she really knew anything about it. You must have missed our recent conversation about Byzantine costumes; I'll e-mail you off list with a summary, or you can check the archives. :)
 
Tea Rose
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Low Riders (WAS: Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 402)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
> Drea Leed has a hilarious article on her costume website about the 
> "Superwide" style of pants (i.e. low riders). She wrote it several years 
> ago in response to my comment that future costume historians will wonder 
> "How DID they keep their pants up?" As far as I know it's not linked to 
> anything else on her site, but I checked and it's still there:
>
> http://costume.dm.net/superwides.htm

To me, the funniest thing about that website is that those are pretty much 
the same thoughts I had the first time I saw the style.  Actually, I 
imagined some even wilder things, some of them involving those wallet chains 
that were also fashionable around the same time.

-E House 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about stockings
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>I have seen little other than the Arnold images. Please keep us posted on 
>what you find out.

>We over on the H-knit list have been having a 'discussion' about the
>>stockings of Eleanora de Toledo.  We have hashed the English resources to
>>death.  I'm wondering if anyone on this list knows some Spanish or Italian
>>costume resources - or better yet textile related journals - that have
>>published an analysis of these items.
>>
>>I really am looking for a thorough analysis of them.  Like I said,  Spanish
>>or Italian resources would be where I would expect to find something, and
>>be able to read it.
>>
>>Any ideas... I don't even need a specific article.  Just a journal name or
>>historical society to start my queries with.   I already have plans of
>>speaking to the museum.

Mr. Rutt's book on the history of hand knitting has a knitting pattern for 
these, in case this one isn't among the hashed.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Penny, it also will travel to Ft. Lauderdale, Chicago and Philadelphia
over the next two years.

I can't wait to see it in Los Angeles though. that's as close as it
gets to San Francisco. We plan to visit during Costume College at the
end of July.

LynnD

On 6/14/05, Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> Oh, this is too cool!  A King Tut exhibit in LA.  Go see:
> http://www.kingtut.org/
> 
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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At 03:59 PM 6/15/2005, Kayta wrote:

>>I have seen little other than the Arnold images. Please keep us posted on 
>>what you find out.
>
>>We over on the H-knit list have been having a 'discussion' about the
>>>stockings of Eleanora de Toledo.  We have hashed the English resources to
>>>death.  I'm wondering if anyone on this list knows some Spanish or Italian
>>>costume resources - or better yet textile related journals - that have
>>>published an analysis of these items.

>Mr. Rutt's book on the history of hand knitting has a knitting pattern for 
>these, in case this one isn't among the hashed.

It is indeed among those being discussed. Rutt's description is not very 
detailed, but several of us are working on alternative "redactions." I 
encourage anyone interested in historic knitting to join that list anyway 
<grin>:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HistoricKnit/

I just checked with a friend who gave me the most recent citation of work 
on these stockings that she knows about: Janet Arnold's article (in 
English) in:  "Moda ala corte dei Medici:  gli abiti restaurati di Cosimo, 
Eleonora e don Garzia" by Piacenti, Kirsten A. and Chiarelli, 
Caterina.  Florence, Centro Di, 1993.



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0  Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
0  <http://paternoster-row.org>  <http://paternosters.blogspot.com>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>> We over on the H-knit list have been having a 'discussion' about the
>>
>>> stockings of Eleanora de Toledo.  We have hashed the English 
>>> resources to
>>> death.  I'm wondering if anyone on this list knows some Spanish or 
>>> Italian
>>> costume resources - or better yet textile related journals - that have
>>> published an analysis of these items.
>>>
>>> I really am looking for a thorough analysis of them.  Like I said,  
>>> Spanish
>>> or Italian resources would be where I would expect to find 
>>> something, and
>>> be able to read it.
>>> <snip!>
>>
>
> Mr. Rutt's book on the history of hand knitting has a knitting pattern 
> for these, in case this one isn't among the hashed.
>
No, it doesn't.  He explains the stitch patterns for the cuff and the 
leg/foot, but he does not give a worked out pattern for the whole piece.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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In a message dated 6/13/2005 6:35:59 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
audreybmorin2@hotmail.com writes:

The new thing 
this year is to wear 2 or even 3 tank tops in contrasting colours. 

I've just spent the past few days shopping...The Gap is promoting this aggressively.


		
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Subject: [h-cost] Question on water stains on Bridal Satin and Costume Satin
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I have just recently noticed some water stains on my Bridal Satin and my 
Costume satin. Is there anyway to get those out or what can I do to make it 
look better?This is my first time in working with this type of material. 
Does anyone have any input and without having to dry clean it at the moment. 
I need it this Saturday.
Mary


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on water stains on Bridal Satin and
	Costume Satin
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>I have just recently noticed some water stains on my Bridal Satin and my 
>Costume satin. Is there anyway to get those out or what can I do to make 
>it look better?

If the stains won't show, or if you can cut around them, ignore them.  If 
not, maybe you could get the entire piece wet, so it will all be water 
stain colored.  No, that's not a joke answer.  If the piece can stand being 
wet, and try a little piece first, then this may be your answer.

>This is my first time in working with this type of material. Does anyone 
>have any input and without having to dry clean it at the moment. I need it 
>this Saturday.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about stockings
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I've got a copy of that.  Well, a photocopy.  My local library managed 
to get it for me through ILL.
I took full advantage of our scanner at work, so I've got pretty good 
images (regular and blown up) of the stocking details.  I think they're 
considerably better than the ones in Rutt, although those aren't bad.  I 
love the toe and heel details....
--sue (also on the h-knit list, but enough behind in her digests that 
she's missed the discussion...hmmm)

Chris Laning wrote:

> It is indeed among those being discussed. Rutt's description is not very 
> detailed, but several of us are working on alternative "redactions." I 
> encourage anyone interested in historic knitting to join that list 
> anyway <grin>:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HistoricKnit/
> 
> I just checked with a friend who gave me the most recent citation of 
> work on these stockings that she knows about: Janet Arnold's article (in 
> English) in:  "Moda ala corte dei Medici:  gli abiti restaurati di 
> Cosimo, Eleonora e don Garzia" by Piacenti, Kirsten A. and Chiarelli, 
> Caterina.  Florence, Centro Di, 1993.


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Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2005 22:40:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] chinese parasols ......paint removal ideas
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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mm...about the paint,can you tell what type it is?(oil
,acrylic,tempra?) 
Plain water will wash out the tempra,(my sis
broughtback souvineer T's from Hawaii, 1 wash and we
had plain white t's)I had really good luck with dry
laytex paint coming   out of cloth using an
application of "Mr Klean" liquid, the white opaque
cleaning stuff, from the market, Took it right out,
didn't take out any of the base color either.
 WIld random thought, maybe if you took the "brolly"
to an art supply store, they might be able to identify
the paint and a way to remove it.
melody

--- Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca> wrote:

> Ah well... I was hoping that there was a miracle out
> there that would strip it off without removing it.
> One
> more project that went from quick to complicated in
> one easy step. I have a knack for finding those
> projects. Hmm.... I wonder if pressurised water shot
> from behind would push the bulk of it off? Musing at
> the moment... 
> 
> Onto the next question.... I have a bunch of beading
> to do, too many projects and not enough time. I know
> they exist but no idea what the name of the little
> machine that does it is called that appliques beads
> onto fabric surfaces. I am fairly certain it's not
> practical for the application, but for the
> excercise,
> does anyone out there know what its called, where
> one
> would find such a beast and what cost might it be?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Kathy
> 
> It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> An inordinate passion for pleasure is the secret of
> remaining young.
> -Oscar Wilde
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about stockings
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Hey there Chris ; >

I've got the book on ILL order!  We'll see if it comes through.   Also, I'm 
retrieving a bibliography from the Cornell Library Archive - seeing if it 
mentions any other resources.  And the letter to the museum is almost 
translated to my satisfaction.   I'm quite determined to resolve this 
issue.  The whole 10st/inch v. 22 st/inch question is irritating me... 
rather like an oyster - I might just get something good out of it.  ; >

Have fun - and I 'll keep you posted.
Mari / Bridgette



>>Mr. Rutt's book on the history of hand knitting has a knitting pattern 
>>for these, in case this one isn't among the hashed.
>
>It is indeed among those being discussed. Rutt's description is not very 
>detailed, but several of us are working on alternative "redactions." I 
>encourage anyone interested in historic knitting to join that list anyway 
><grin>:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HistoricKnit/
>
>I just checked with a friend who gave me the most recent citation of work 
>on these stockings that she knows about: Janet Arnold's article (in 
>English) in:  "Moda ala corte dei Medici:  gli abiti restaurati di Cosimo, 
>Eleonora e don Garzia" by Piacenti, Kirsten A. and Chiarelli, 
>Caterina.  Florence, Centro Di, 1993.

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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>The whole 10st/inch v. 22 st/inch question is irritating me... rather like 
>an oyster - I might just get something good out of it.  ; >

Please keep those of us, who only dabble in knitting, posted on this 
issue.  I can see knitting 10st/inch, but not 22st/inch - I'm not a "real" 
knitter like my mother, I'm a living history participant who dabbles in 
knitting.  The process and the product are of historical interest, but it's 
not my artform.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>
>> The whole 10st/inch v. 22 st/inch question is irritating me... rather 
>> like an oyster - I might just get something good out of it.  ; >
>
>
> Please keep those of us, who only dabble in knitting, posted on this 
> issue.  I can see knitting 10st/inch, but not 22st/inch - I'm not a 
> "real" knitter like my mother, I'm a living history participant who 
> dabbles in knitting.  The process and the product are of historical 
> interest, but it's not my artform.


You might want to read some of the discussion on Historic Knit 
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HistoricKnit/).  I think 22st/in has been 
more-or-less discounted.  A more likely figure seems to be 12st/in.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about stockings
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>>>The whole 10st/inch v. 22 st/inch question is irritating me... rather 
>>>like an oyster - I might just get something good out of it.  ; >
>>
>>
>>Please keep those of us, who only dabble in knitting, posted on this 
>>issue.  I can see knitting 10st/inch, but not 22st/inch - I'm not a 
>>"real" knitter like my mother, I'm a living history participant who 
>>dabbles in knitting.  The process and the product are of historical 
>>interest, but it's not my artform.
>
>
>You might want to read some of the discussion on Historic Knit 
>(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HistoricKnit/).  I think 22st/in has been 
>more-or-less discounted.  A more likely figure seems to be 12st/in.

12st/inch is doable by a dabbler like me.  But I don't think I'd live long 
enough to make a pair of stockings, even baby stockings, at 
22st/inch.  Knitting, to me, is just something I do at historical events in 
periods before crochet was invented.  (I knit at Ren. events because I 
haven't seen a Ren.-period example I can copy.)  Knitting, to a 'real' 
knitter like my mother, is churning out charity sweaters at the rate of one 
per week-and-a-half, each one different.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
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Subject: [h-cost] Historicals costume out of Duct/Duck tape
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The entries are getting quite sophisticated.  3420 is nearly Bjarne's 
period, 3437 is medievalish, 3437 looks good, and there are other 
historical designs which you can search for from this page:

http://ducktapeclub.com/contests/prom/entries.asp

Category "theme/costume" gets the closest approximation to historical. 
Most of the other entries are standard prom-wear, though.

Note for non-North Americans: this is an adhesive tape with threads in 
it, allegedly for using on heating ducts and whatnot.  The contest is 
for high school prom (dance) clothing made of it.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The smart way to keep people passive and obedient is to strictly limit 
the spectrum of acceptable opinion, but allow very lively debate within 
that spectrum.  -- Noam Chomsky
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Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 12:18:37 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historicals costume out of Duct/Duck tape
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> The entries are getting quite sophisticated.  3420 is nearly Bjarne's 
> period, 3437 is medievalish, 3437 looks good, and there are other 
> historical designs which you can search for from this page:
>
> http://ducktapeclub.com/contests/prom/entries.asp
>
> Category "theme/costume" gets the closest approximation to historical. 
> Most of the other entries are standard prom-wear, though.
>
> Note for non-North Americans: this is an adhesive tape with threads in 
> it, allegedly for using on heating ducts and whatnot.  The contest is 
> for high school prom (dance) clothing made of it.


Um, we do have duct tape in other countries :-)


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Adele de Maisieres wrote:

> Um, we do have duct tape in other countries :-)

I don't doubt it.  The thing I didn't know is if it was called something 
entirely different.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 17:51:46 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historicals costume out of Duct/Duck tape
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>>Um, we do have duct tape in other countries :-)
>
>I don't doubt it.  The thing I didn't know is if it was called something 
>entirely different.

In Hollywood it's called "gaffer's tape", and is likely to have a ground 
wire in it.

In Airplane racing, I hear it's called "100-mile-an-hour tape", because it 
starts peeling at 100 mph, airspeed.

In the Navy, I hear it's called "E.B.Green", for "electrical, boat, green", 
and it is said to only come in green.

In some places it is called "The Force" because it holds the Universe 
together and has a 'dark' side and a 'light' side.

In the SCA it's called "sword tape".

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historicals costume out of Duct/Duck tape (MASTIC?)
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>> http://ducktapeclub.com/contests/prom/entries.asp
>>
>> Category "theme/costume" gets the closest approximation to historical.
>>  Most of the other entries are standard prom-wear, though.
>>
>> Note for non-North Americans: this is an adhesive tape with threads in
>>  it, allegedly for using on heating ducts and whatnot.  The contest is
>>  for high school prom (dance) clothing made of it.
>

does anyone remember MASTIC?   it was cloth tape available in a host of
colors, maybe 10 or 15 which was used in the sixties for everything,
repair and decoration.   Then it dissappeared and there was duct tape.  
Ok, looking at it, I think I got the name a bit wrong but hopefully
someone knows what I mean


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 16 23:22:19 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics
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Status: RO

Hi all,

It's been several months since I left the mail list, and I am glad to have 
returned. My life story took quite a turn earlier this year as I took care 
of my ailing mom, and focused all my efforts for her. She died on May 1 
after a year long fight with lung cancer. I have since been trying to 
reclaim my own life, one small step at a time. On the positive side, my 
husband and I are expecting a baby girl in mid-October, which after two 
boys will be different for me. But it does mean that any full costuming 
plans I had are currently on hold till sometime this winter.

So, I figured I would work on accessories for my outfits this summer, such 
as finishing my leather gloves (inspiration for the gauntlets still elude 
me), making partlets (a Tudor and an Elizabethan), and making appropriate 
hats as my old ones ... well are old.

On hats, I would like to make a Tudor gable hat, a French hood similar to 
what Mary Brandon (sister to Henry VIII) wears in her portrait with her 
husband, and something for my Elizabethan attire (what exactly, I am not sure).

I have worked with cotton velveteen for my previous hats (scraps from the 
main gowns), but this time I want to work with better velvets. I don't know 
if cotton velvet or silk/rayon velvet would be better choices for hats?

Is there a millinery velvet still available? I searched for millinery 
velvet in LA's hat store (the one at the edge of the garment district), but 
I didn't see it. Might have overlooked it considering how dark the place was.

Anyway, any and all suggestions or experiences working with the various 
velvets for hats would be appreciated. Also, any suggestions for 
appropriate silk to use for lining the hats would be helpful. I am 
concerned with using something too slippery, as I don't want them falling 
or sliding around my head all the time.

Thanks all.

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)

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	<4.3.1.2.20050616174336.02725c08@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historicals costume out of Duct/Duck tape
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 23:38:08 -0400
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> In some places it is called "The Force" because it holds the Universe 
> together and has a 'dark' side and a 'light' side.

And also: To build or repair anything, you only need two things, duct tape 
and DW40. When it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape. When it doesn't 
move but should, use DW40. 
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Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 21:36:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics **Reply**
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

 **reply**

--- Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
> **HI**
> It's been several months since I left the mail list,
> and I am glad to have 
> returned. My life story took quite a turn earlier
> this year as I took care 
> of my ailing mom, and focused all my efforts for
> her. She died on May 1 
> after a year long fight with lung cancer.
  **My condolences to you,lost my mom 362 days ago** 
I have since been trying to 
> reclaim my own life, one small step at a time.
 ** do it one day at a time, don't rush your emotions
**
 On the positive side, my husband and I are expecting
a baby girl in mid-October,** Congrats!,new life -a
blessing**  which after two 
> boys will be different for me. ** Just think, tennie
tinenie Tudors to make!** But it does mean that
> any full costuming  plans I had are currently on
hold till sometime this winter.
> 
> So, I figured I would work on accessories for my
> outfits this summer, such as finishing my leather
gloves (inspiration for the gauntlets still elude 
> me), making partlets (a Tudor and an Elizabethan),
> and making appropriate  hats as my old ones ... well
are old.
> 
> On hats, I would like to make a Tudor gable hat, a
> French hood similar to  what Mary Brandon (sister to
    Henry VIII) wears in her portrait with her 
> husband, and something for my Elizabethan attire
> (what exactly, I am not sure).
> 
> I have worked with cotton velveteen for my previous
> hats (scraps from the main gowns), but this time I
want to work with better velvets. I don't know 
> if cotton velvet or silk/rayon velvet would be
> better choices for hats?
** lighter in weight-heavier in nap,millinery velvet.
I think the cotton velvet is more in that line then
the silk**
> Is there a millinery velvet still available? I
> searched for millinery  velvet in LA's hat store
(the one at the edge of the garment district), but 
> I didn't see it. Might have overlooked it
> considering how dark the place was.
 ** have 2 listings for supplies California Millinery
721 S.Spring .L.A.  and Richard the Thread 8320
Melrose #201 L.A. 800 748 5830 (check #)**
> 
> Anyway, any and all suggestions or experiences
> working with the various velvets for hats would be
appreciated. Also, any suggestions for 
> appropriate silk to use for lining the hats would be
> helpful.
 I am  concerned with using something too slippery, as
I
> don't want them falling or sliding around my head
all the time.
** what about using the silk only on the part that
shows and a cotton for the"works" part?**
> 
> Thanks all.
> ** hope this helps, You might want to take a look at
Denise Dreher"s "From the neck Up " book has info,tips
 & patters, I swear by mine**
  Melody

> Kimiko
> 
> Kimiko Small
> http://www.kimiko1.com
> Fresno, CA, USA
> 
> "Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
> Portraying at California's Central Valley
> Renaissance Faires
> Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
>   (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret
> Russell)
> 
> __

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I found my photo copy of the Italian exhibit catalogue.  The text 
concerning the stockings is in Italian (which I don't speak or read or 
write, unfortunately), but there are a couple of useful details, anyway. 
  The description of them reads, in part:
"Le calze (lungh. cm. 52; piedi cm. 23; caviglie cm. 11,5)," which, if I 
catch that properly, gives a length of 52 cm, a foot-something of 23 cm, 
and the calf? of 11.5 cm.  Judging from a rough guesstimate with my 
thumb and forefinger against the picture of the complete stockings, 
pre-conservation, I'd say that the measurement across the calf (roughly 
half the diameter at calf height) is about one-quarter the total length 
of the stocking, which would give a diameter of 23 cm or so, but that's 
very rough.
Other things I can tell, just from the pictures:
1.  There are more repeats to the alternating bands in the leg of the 
stockings than are used in the version that showed up in _TI_ a while 
back, and the pattern bands continue all the way down to the toes, which 
look to have some sort of "star" decrease going on (don't know the 
technical term, but the bands look to decrease uniformly, and not just 
on the sides.  I can clearly see 5 panels of the seed stitch on just the 
one half of the stocking that faces me.
2.  I can't really see much of the heels--looks to be completely gone on 
one of the stockings, and there, but crumpled, in the other (there are 
no post-conservation pictures).
3.  There is a very, very good, clear blowup of the details of one of 
the cuffs, which remind me somewhat of the ones from the _TI_ article, 
but not exactly--IIRC, the author actually said something about using 
modern stitches to approximate what she thought was going on, and making 
at least one alteration.  The patterns on the cuff include some clusters 
of eyelets (looks like the sort you get with yarn-overs), but mostly 
it's done with knit stitches and purl stitches.
And folks, the stitches look really, really teeny, so I wouldn't be 
surprised at all if it was more along the 22 st/inch measure than the 
other.  The cuff may be something on the order of 60 stitches "deep," 
which would give you about a 3" cuff, and it's significantly longer, 
horizontally, than it is vertically, so the circumference, at least at 
the cuff, is gonna be a bunch more than 120 stitches. I counted 10 
stitches across one of the seed-stitch panels, so if you had, say, 10 
panels of seed stitch at 10 stitches each, and another, and add in 
almost as much for the narrower panels, you'd have something that's 
roughly 10" in diameter, which would fit with the diameter of 23 cm. 
Sounds seriously skinny, I know, but take into account that she was a 
seriously ill woman when she died, and may have had slender limbs. 
Also, I just hauled a handknit boot sock out of my drawer.  It goes part 
way up my calf, and only has a calf measurement of (rustle, rustle) 7". 
  And I have seriously large calves, being a large woman.
At least for these stockings, I'd go with the finer count of stitches 
per inch, truly.
If, however, you're interested in 16th century stockings made of wool, 
and distinctly coarser, check out the 16th c. woolen stockings from 
Ireland on Kass McGann's website (reconstructinghistoryDOTcom), in the 
"Irish" section.  They're mentioned, briefly, in my copy of Dunlevy's 
_Dress in Ireland_, but Kass, who got to actually see them when she was 
in Ireland, was able to tell me that they were distinctly knitted from a 
worsted single, and (I think...the email's at work) that the gauge was 
about 10 stitches to the inch.  Don't quote me on it, though...I'd have 
to double-check her email.
I'm starting to dabble in historical knitting, and while my (historical 
knitting) goal is to be able to make a pair of Eleanor's stockings, my 
skill level isn't there yet.  So my first ones will be based on the 
woolen Irish ones, and then, I'll work my way into finer gauges and 
materials.
If Urtatim (whom I still think of as "the artist formerly known as 
Anahita") would like to forward this one to the historic knitting list, 
so I don't have to retype the whole thing, I'd be grateful.  I get that 
list with another email account than the one I use for h-costume.
--sue, dabbler in many things fibery these days....

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> 
>> The whole 10st/inch v. 22 st/inch question is irritating me... rather 
>> like an oyster - I might just get something good out of it.  ; >
> 
> 
> Please keep those of us, who only dabble in knitting, posted on this 
> issue.  I can see knitting 10st/inch, but not 22st/inch - I'm not a 
> "real" knitter like my mother, I'm a living history participant who 
> dabbles in knitting.  The process and the product are of historical 
> interest, but it's not my artform.
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historicals costume out of Duct/Duck tape
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LOL! Wouldn't do much for my knees or, come to think of it, the cats. 
Well, maybe the duct tape *would* work on the cats, especially when they 
get kitty rips in the middle of the night.  (How can an animal so small 
sound so LOUD! at 2 a.m.????)
--sue, who once mended the hem of an SCA dress with duct tape, and 
never, ever, ever will do it again that way (it does Truly Evyl Things 
to velveteen)

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

>> In some places it is called "The Force" because it holds the Universe 
>> together and has a 'dark' side and a 'light' side.
> 
> 
> And also: To build or repair anything, you only need two things, duct 
> tape and DW40. When it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape. When it 
> doesn't move but should, use DW40. 


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Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 17:09:28 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about stockings
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Sue Clemenger wrote:

> I found my photo copy of the Italian exhibit catalogue.  The text 
> concerning the stockings is in Italian (which I don't speak or read or 
> write, unfortunately), but there are a couple of useful details, 
> anyway.  The description of them reads, in part:
> "Le calze (lungh. cm. 52; piedi cm. 23; caviglie cm. 11,5)," which, if 
> I catch that properly, gives a length of 52 cm, a foot-something of 23 
> cm, and the calf? of 11.5 cm.  Judging from a rough guesstimate with 
> my thumb and forefinger against the picture of the complete stockings, 
> pre-conservation, I'd say that the measurement across the calf 
> (roughly half the diameter at calf height) is about one-quarter the 
> total length of the stocking, which would give a diameter of 23 cm or 
> so, but that's very rough.
> Other things I can tell, just from the pictures:
> 1.  There are more repeats to the alternating bands in the leg of the 
> stockings than are used in the version that showed up in _TI_ a while 
> back, and the pattern bands continue all the way down to the toes, 
> which look to have some sort of "star" decrease going on (don't know 
> the technical term, but the bands look to decrease uniformly, and not 
> just on the sides.  I can clearly see 5 panels of the seed stitch on 
> just the one half of the stocking that faces me.



Any chance you'll post the scan?  Based on the pictures in Rutt and 
accompanying description, I guessed at a circumference in the calf of 
155st. Rutt gives the leg pattern as double-moss stitch panels of 9st, 
double-garter of 8st, and between those, panels of 5st. All of the 
panels are seperated by one stitch, so a complete iteration of the 
pattern would be 8 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 9 + 1 + 5 + 1 = 31 stitches, and I 
thought I could safely say there were five complete iterations of the 
pattern in the upper calf = 155st. My original guesstimate of 
circumference was based on my own leg size (for lack of anything 
better), and that yielded a gauge of <12st/in.  If the original diameter 
was 23cm, that's a gauge of about 16st/in, but I think that the 
stockings must have shrunken considerably, given their current rather 
stumpy shape.

I wasn't relying on the TI article at all for any of that-- it's a 
modern redaction that starts with (I think) 100 stitches.  I found 
_most_ of what I wanted re: stitch patterns in modern books (with a 
little fudging and adaptation). 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Hi,
Thanks for the link. It is increddible how much you can get out of nothing.
My favourite is 3468.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historicals costume out of Duct/Duck tape
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1134516978.f262a5@thibault.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 7:40 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Historicals costume out of Duct/Duck tape


> The entries are getting quite sophisticated.  3420 is nearly Bjarne's 
> period, 3437 is medievalish, 3437 looks good, and there are other 
> historical designs which you can search for from this page:

My favorite is 3384, the Mary Poppins set. I have always wanted to make a 
doll dressed in that costume!

Dianne

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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
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We signed up to see it during Costume College too... my 16 year old daughter got her registration today... my didn't come yet!  I'm really looking forward to it!  Gytha/Kathy

Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:Penny, it also will travel to Ft. Lauderdale, Chicago and Philadelphia
over the next two years.

I can't wait to see it in Los Angeles though. that's as close as it
gets to San Francisco. We plan to visit during Costume College at the
end of July.

LynnD

On 6/14/05, Penny Ladnier 
wrote:
> Oh, this is too cool! A King Tut exhibit in LA. Go see:
> http://www.kingtut.org/
> 
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 09:56:56 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about stockings
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>
>>>> The whole 10st/inch v. 22 st/inch question is irritating me... 
>>>> rather like an oyster - I might just get something good out of it.  
>>>> ; >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Please keep those of us, who only dabble in knitting, posted on this 
>>> issue.  I can see knitting 10st/inch, but not 22st/inch - I'm not a 
>>> "real" knitter like my mother, I'm a living history participant who 
>>> dabbles in knitting.  The process and the product are of historical 
>>> interest, but it's not my artform.
>>
>>
>>
>> You might want to read some of the discussion on Historic Knit 
>> (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HistoricKnit/).  I think 22st/in has 
>> been more-or-less discounted.  A more likely figure seems to be 12st/in.
>
>
> 12st/inch is doable by a dabbler like me.  But I don't think I'd live 
> long enough to make a pair of stockings, even baby stockings, at 
> 22st/inch.  Knitting, to me, is just something I do at historical 
> events in periods before crochet was invented.  (I knit at Ren. events 
> because I haven't seen a Ren.-period example I can copy.)  Knitting, 
> to a 'real' knitter like my mother, is churning out charity sweaters 
> at the rate of one per week-and-a-half, each one different.


The thing is that the assertion about 22st/in simply does not jive with 
an examination of stockings.  They are, at most, 15.5st/in and probably 
more like 10/12.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historicals costume out of Duct/Duck tape
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Well, gaff & duct tape are similar, except that gaff
is nice & sticks better & then peels off better, and
duct wants to leave a sticky mess without actually
sticking to anything itself.

Ann in CT
has taped many an acre of put-together stages.

--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

> >>duct tape 
> 
> In Hollywood it's called "gaffer's tape", and is
> likely to have a ground 
> wire in it.
> 
>         CarolynKayta Barrows


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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics **Reply**
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Hi Melody,

At 09:36 PM 6/16/2005, you wrote:
>   **My condolences to you,lost my mom 362 days ago**

Thank you. My condolences to you as well. Moms are so very special, and 
it's hard to lose them.

>  ** do it one day at a time, don't rush your emotions**

I try that approach. Some days are definitely better than others. Today was 
a good one.

>** Congrats!,new life -a blessing**  which after two
> > boys will be different for me. ** Just think, tennie
>tinenie Tudors to make!**

Yeah, and girly styles this time. My boy toddler wore appropriate Tudor 
"gowns" and kept getting called a girl for it. Now I will have a girl in a 
gown. I guess I will have to make something else for my boy, as he's 
outgrown his old gown.

> > if cotton velvet or silk/rayon velvet would be
> > better choices for hats?
>** lighter in weight-heavier in nap,millinery velvet.
>I think the cotton velvet is more in that line then
>the silk**

I have yet to find millinery velvet, and only worked in cotton velvet once 
for a doublet. Cotton velvet is thicker than velveteen so I am wondering if 
it will be harder to sew up as a hat?

> > Is there a millinery velvet still available? I
> > searched for millinery  velvet in LA's hat store
>(the one at the edge of the garment district), but
> > I didn't see it. Might have overlooked it
> > considering how dark the place was.
>  ** have 2 listings for supplies California Millinery
>721 S.Spring .L.A.  and Richard the Thread 8320
>Melrose #201 L.A. 800 748 5830 (check #)**

It was California Millinery that I went to in LA. Very dark place. They no 
longer send out catalogs of their things, and phone calls take forever to 
get answered. I forgot to ask about millinery velvet when I was there, but 
I did get other supplies like heavy buckram and heavy gauge wire.

I will have to dig up my Richard the Thread catalog and see if he carries 
millinery velvet. I've also checked Hats by Leko and JudithM Hats online, 
and they seem to carry velour, either pre-made hats or the fabric. Is that 
the same as millinery velvet?? I've been checking other online sources and 
still can't find millinery velvet. There is a mail order source I may have 
to try; Manny's Millinery Supply in NY.

>** what about using the silk only on the part that
>shows and a cotton for the"works" part?**

I have used either linen or cotton for the lining before. I wanted to try a 
silk lining, but I am not sure what kind of silk would work best. (Maybe a 
crepe?) Even cotton ends up slipping around on my head. Seems china silk is 
the usual lining according to some websites, and the book.

> > ** hope this helps, You might want to take a look at
>Denise Dreher"s "From the neck Up " book has info,tips
>  & patters, I swear by mine**
>   Melody

I have the book, which helped me before, but on the specifics of fabrics, I 
can't find anything really helpful regarding velvet, other than it saying 
that millinery velvet is more suitable than other velvets for hats. But 
thanks for reminding me to look at the book again. It's been a year since I 
read it last.

Thank you,

Kimiko


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historicals costume out of Duct/Duck tape (MASTIC?)
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> does anyone remember MASTIC?   it was cloth tape available in a host of
> colors, maybe 10 or 15 which was used in the sixties for everything,
> repair and decoration.   Then it dissappeared and there was duct tape.  
> Ok, looking at it, I think I got the name a bit wrong but hopefully
> someone knows what I mean

I remember mastic tape, even when it only came in black.  
             -Helen/Aidan

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics **Reply**
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 14:13:30 +0000
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Gee, I can't really snip 'cuz good info in the body!  I agree.  I found that a really nappy deep velvet is a must, because when it 'breaks' on the fold, the ground isn't staring the audience in the face.

Also, when I made my little Italian Ren hat (think what Elenora of Toledo wore), I used a fabric with a really *strong* one way nap on the lowest edge, on the part that touches the hair.  I think I used a corduroy and make sure the nap is pointing back towards the crown.  If you have it facing forward the silly little thing will just slide forward.

Another thing, to keep the hat on, since I had long hair at the time, I dressed my hair in a tight bun to fit directly into the crown, so that I could take a hat pin and pin my hairbun to the crown, making sure to gently 'tug' the front of the hat back so the nap sets into the hair.  Worked like a charm.

Anyhow, these are my tips...for what they are worth...Now that I have shorter hair, I'll have to think of a different way...I'm open to suggestions!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> **reply** 
> 
> --- Kimiko Small wrote: 
> 
> > Hi all, 
> > **HI** 
> > It's been several months since I left the mail list, 
> > and I am glad to have 
> > returned. My life story took quite a turn earlier 
> > this year as I took care 
> > of my ailing mom, and focused all my efforts for 
> > her. She died on May 1 
> > after a year long fight with lung cancer. 
> **My condolences to you,lost my mom 362 days ago** 
> I have since been trying to 
> > reclaim my own life, one small step at a time. 
> ** do it one day at a time, don't rush your emotions 
> ** 
> On the positive side, my husband and I are expecting 
> a baby girl in mid-October,** Congrats!,new life -a 
> blessing** which after two 
> > boys will be different for me. ** Just think, tennie 
> tinenie Tudors to make!** But it does mean that 
> > any full costuming plans I had are currently on 
> hold till sometime this winter. 
> > 
> > So, I figured I would work on accessories for my 
> > outfits this summer, such as finishing my leather 
> gloves (inspiration for the gauntlets still elude 
> > me), making partlets (a Tudor and an Elizabethan), 
> > and making appropriate hats as my old ones ... well 
> are old. 
> > 
> > On hats, I would like to make a Tudor gable hat, a 
> > French hood similar to what Mary Brandon (sister to 
> Henry VIII) wears in her portrait with her 
> > husband, and something for my Elizabethan attire 
> > (what exactly, I am not sure). 
> > 
> > I have worked with cotton velveteen for my previous 
> > hats (scraps from the main gowns), but this time I 
> want to work with better velvets. I don't know 
> > if cotton velvet or silk/rayon velvet would be 
> > better choices for hats? 
> ** lighter in weight-heavier in nap,millinery velvet. 
> I think the cotton velvet is more in that line then 
> the silk** 
> > Is there a millinery velvet still available? I 
> > searched for millinery velvet in LA's hat store 
> (the one at the edge of the garment district), but 
> > I didn't see it. Might have overlooked it 
> > considering how dark the place was. 
> ** have 2 listings for supplies California Millinery 
> 721 S.Spring .L.A. and Richard the Thread 8320 
> Melrose #201 L.A. 800 748 5830 (check #)** 
> > 
> > Anyway, any and all suggestions or experiences 
> > working with the various velvets for hats would be 
> appreciated. Also, any suggestions for 
> > appropriate silk to use for lining the hats would be 
> > helpful. 
> I am concerned with using something too slippery, as 
> I 
> > don't want them falling or sliding around my head 
> all the time. 
> ** what about using the silk only on the part that 
> shows and a cotton for the"works" part?** 
> > 
> > Thanks all. 
> > ** hope this helps, You might want to take a look at 
> Denise Dreher"s "From the neck Up " book has info,tips 
> & patters, I swear by mine** 
> Melody 
> 
> > Kimiko 
> > 
> > Kimiko Small 
> > http://www.kimiko1.com 
> > Fresno, CA, USA 
> > 
> > "Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild 
> > Portraying at California's Central Valley 
> > Renaissance Faires 
> > Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland 
> > (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret 
> > Russell) 
> > 
> > __ 
> 
> __________________________________________________ 
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I took my serger in for repair/maintenance the other day as one of the 
threads kept disappearing as I sewed (it would then reappear- very odd).  The place 
I took it said that their standard fee was $100, which seemed high to me.  A 
few years ago I had taken it there, and it had only been $70.  This machine is 
about 12 years old and has always had trouble with its tension (Singer 14U 
model).  So, I'm trying to decide what to do.

First, does anyone know where I can find a manual that will teach me how to 
adjust timing of a serger (that's what they think has gone wacky this time)?

Secondly, what sergers do people recommend, including those to avoid?  I've 
searched the archives, and we haven't discussed sergers in a while, so I 
thought people might have some new info.

Thanks,

Nancy Stengel Ulmer
(otherwise Maddalena Salutati)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Recommendation on Sergers Wanted
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Secondly, what sergers do people recommend, including those to avoid?
> I've
> searched the archives, and we haven't discussed sergers in a while, so I
> thought people might have some new info.

I bought my Juki serger about 10 years ago and at the time I was told by
someone who had been to fashion design school that Juki was a home model
made like the the professional machines.  I have to say that with the
exception of a bent part and new blades, I haven't had to service it a
bit.  And it will go through ANYTHING!!  Four layers of fabric is nothing
for this little guy.

Aside from Juki specifically, I was told that sergers that use the cutting
blades in a "scissor" fashion are better for costuming because they can
take many layers of fabric without a problem.

But my Juki also cost $600 at the time and that was for a floor model. 
But I would say that it was money VERY well spent.

Hope that helps!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Recommendation on Sergers Wanted
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Nancy--

I think you should dump the 12 year old Singer and get a new serger.

And, even though all sergers are made in China or Japan or Korea, not by
the actual sewing machine companies (such as Pfaff or Singer), I would
not recommend a Singer.

You can find some very pricey sergers out there, with lots of bells and
whistles. Most of them do a great job, and many of the expensive
features are convenient, if you want to pay for them.

But you can also find more basic sergers that work just as well, but
they make you do a little of the work yourself, adjusting tensions and
stitch lengths and widths rather than pushing a button for pre-set
stitches. These basic sergers are NOT difficult to thread, although
retailers take advantage of the serger's reputation as hard to thread to
sell you models that are in some way self-threading. Again, if you care
to pay extra, this is not a bad feature.

Take some of the fabric you typically sew with, go to your favorite
dealer, and try out some sergers. Don't listen too closely to the
salesperson's spiel--judge by the machine itself, as you use it.

If you NEVER sew modern clothing with knits, you don't need a machine
that can do a cover stitch. As an adjunct to historical costume, you
will be perfectly happy with a 3/4thread machine that has differential
feed.

Kim
(ex-dealer)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of MaddNancy@aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 9:16 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Recommendation on Sergers Wanted


I took my serger in for repair/maintenance the other day as one of the 
threads kept disappearing as I sewed (it would then reappear- very odd).
The place 
I took it said that their standard fee was $100, which seemed high to
me.  A 
few years ago I had taken it there, and it had only been $70.  This
machine is 
about 12 years old and has always had trouble with its tension (Singer
14U 
model).  So, I'm trying to decide what to do.

First, does anyone know where I can find a manual that will teach me how
to 
adjust timing of a serger (that's what they think has gone wacky this
time)?

Secondly, what sergers do people recommend, including those to avoid?
I've 
searched the archives, and we haven't discussed sergers in a while, so I

thought people might have some new info.

Thanks,

Nancy Stengel Ulmer
(otherwise Maddalena Salutati)
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about stockings
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At 01:09 AM 6/17/2005, Adele wrote:
>Any chance you'll post the scan?  Based on the pictures in Rutt and 
>accompanying description, I guessed at a circumference in the calf of 155st.

FWIW, 155 is the count I came up with also.

>  If the original diameter was 23cm, that's a gauge of about 16st/in, but 
> I think that the stockings must have shrunken considerably, given their 
> current rather stumpy shape.

I'm not sure silk would shrink under those conditions. I haven't tried 
washing knitted silk, but my impression is that just as silk is remarkably 
non-stretchy compared to wool, I'd expect it to be fairly shrink-proof as well.

>I wasn't relying on the TI article at all for any of that-- it's a modern 
>redaction that starts with (I think) 100 stitches.  I found _most_ of what 
>I wanted re: stitch patterns in modern books (with a little fudging and 
>adaptation).

Clearly Melinda Strehl (the TI article author) wasn't trying to do a 
stitch-for-stitch replica -- her article was originally written for a 
mundane knitting publication. For reasons I don't fully understand, what 
she did was to find modern patterns that approximated the originals, and 
gave directions for the modern patterns as they stood. I can only suppose 
she felt that her audience would find those reassuringly familiar, and 
perhaps feel more comfortable trying the project, since it's certainly not 
your typical modern knitting project (for one thing it's at far more 
stitches per inch, even in her pattern, than most people are used to).

I knitted a small sample at about 20 stitches per inch (IIRC) in a 2-ply 
spun-silk thread about the same size as Guterman's size E. (I'm 3,000 miles 
from home at the moment, so I can't check the details or measurements till 
late next week.) It did take time, but I didn't find it that hard, once I 
got used to the 0.5mm knitting needles (they are weirdly flexible and 
springy). The color pattern I tried to work in green _reeled_ silk, though, 
was a royal pain, since the needles split the thread if you so much as look 
at it cross-eyed. (This is the stuff that is just a lot of parallel silk 
threads as they come off the cocoons, bundled together but not twisted at all.)

Let me see which of my knitting files I have with me -- I may have a chart 
I can post over at the [HistoricKnit] list's Files section.
( http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HistoricKnit/ if anyone's still in need of 
the address...)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0  Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
0  <http://paternoster-row.org>  <http://paternosters.blogspot.com>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 


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Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 10:35:03 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Recommendation on Sergers Wanted
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Ah ha! An expert!!

Ok, ravel question then. A 3/4 server is good for linen that will
not quite raveling, yes?

One of my girlfriends just got a new one from her oh so wonderful
hubby and he has been playing with it too. She is sooo lucky. ;)

Anyhow, that is her question. :)

Chiara

On Fri, June 17, 2005 9:48 am, kim baird said:
> Nancy--
>
> I think you should dump the 12 year old Singer and get a new serger.
>
> And, even though all sergers are made in China or Japan or Korea,
> not by
> the actual sewing machine companies (such as Pfaff or Singer), I
> would
> not recommend a Singer.
>
> You can find some very pricey sergers out there, with lots of bells
> and
> whistles. Most of them do a great job, and many of the expensive
> features are convenient, if you want to pay for them.
>
> But you can also find more basic sergers that work just as well, but
> they make you do a little of the work yourself, adjusting tensions
> and
> stitch lengths and widths rather than pushing a button for pre-set
> stitches. These basic sergers are NOT difficult to thread, although
> retailers take advantage of the serger's reputation as hard to
> thread to
> sell you models that are in some way self-threading. Again, if you
> care
> to pay extra, this is not a bad feature.
>
> Take some of the fabric you typically sew with, go to your favorite
> dealer, and try out some sergers. Don't listen too closely to the
> salesperson's spiel--judge by the machine itself, as you use it.
>
> If you NEVER sew modern clothing with knits, you don't need a
> machine
> that can do a cover stitch. As an adjunct to historical costume, you
> will be perfectly happy with a 3/4thread machine that has
> differential
> feed.
>
> Kim
> (ex-dealer)

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I'll put my 2cents in here.

I have a raw silk woven fabric dress that has shrunk total about 10% from original.

I also have a modern silk knitted sweater that has shrunk total about 5% from original. 
The sweater can easily be stretched back into shape without looking 'funny'. 

Maybe the stockings react like modern pantyhose? After washing they look baggy and child-sized - but stretch to fit an adult. 

Katheryne
who hasn't knitted with any needles smaller than a sz 3 

----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>

> At 01:09 AM 6/17/2005, Adele wrote:
> > >  If the original diameter was 23cm, that's a gauge of about 
> 16st/in, but I think that the stockings must have shrunken considerably, 
> given their current rather stumpy shape.
> 
> I'm not sure silk would shrink under those conditions. I haven't 
> tried washing knitted silk, but my impression is that just as silk is 
> remarkably non-stretchy compared to wool, I'd expect it to be fairly shrink-
> proof as well.
> 
> 0  Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>

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Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 09:04:16 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about stockings
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Most shrinkage associated with wool is due to felting (or fulling).  Silk 
does not felt, and one can stretch it back out after shrinkage.
Joan

At 11:40 AM 6/17/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>I'll put my 2cents in here.
>
>I have a raw silk woven fabric dress that has shrunk total about 10% from 
>original.
>
>I also have a modern silk knitted sweater that has shrunk total about 5% 
>from original.
>The sweater can easily be stretched back into shape without looking 'funny'.
>
>Maybe the stockings react like modern pantyhose? After washing they look 
>baggy and child-sized - but stretch to fit an adult.
>
>Katheryne
>who hasn't knitted with any needles smaller than a sz 3
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
>
> > At 01:09 AM 6/17/2005, Adele wrote:
> > > >  If the original diameter was 23cm, that's a gauge of about
> > 16st/in, but I think that the stockings must have shrunken considerably,
> > given their current rather stumpy shape.
> >
> > I'm not sure silk would shrink under those conditions. I haven't
> > tried washing knitted silk, but my impression is that just as silk is
> > remarkably non-stretchy compared to wool, I'd expect it to be fairly 
> shrink-
> > proof as well.
> >
> > 0  Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Recommendation on Sergers Wanted
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 11:18:32 -0500
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Yes, I use 3 threads to overcast cut edges and prevent raveling: both
loopers and the left needle.

Even when I change colors, I rarely have to re-thread the machine. I
simply dial the looper tensions down to ZERO, tie the new thread onto
the old above the first thread guide, and pull it through. BUT--before
you do this, cut the needle thread, then re-thread the needle after the
loopers are done.

Don't forget to dial the tension back up from zero!

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 10:35 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Recommendation on Sergers Wanted


Ah ha! An expert!!

Ok, ravel question then. A 3/4 server is good for linen that will not
quite raveling, yes?

One of my girlfriends just got a new one from her oh so wonderful hubby
and he has been playing with it too. She is sooo lucky. ;)

Anyhow, that is her question. :)

Chiara

On Fri, June 17, 2005 9:48 am, kim baird said:
> Nancy--
>
> I think you should dump the 12 year old Singer and get a new serger.
>
> And, even though all sergers are made in China or Japan or Korea, not 
> by the actual sewing machine companies (such as Pfaff or Singer), I
> would
> not recommend a Singer.
>
> You can find some very pricey sergers out there, with lots of bells 
> and whistles. Most of them do a great job, and many of the expensive
> features are convenient, if you want to pay for them.
>
> But you can also find more basic sergers that work just as well, but 
> they make you do a little of the work yourself, adjusting tensions and
> stitch lengths and widths rather than pushing a button for pre-set
> stitches. These basic sergers are NOT difficult to thread, although
> retailers take advantage of the serger's reputation as hard to
> thread to
> sell you models that are in some way self-threading. Again, if you
> care
> to pay extra, this is not a bad feature.
>
> Take some of the fabric you typically sew with, go to your favorite 
> dealer, and try out some sergers. Don't listen too closely to the 
> salesperson's spiel--judge by the machine itself, as you use it.
>
> If you NEVER sew modern clothing with knits, you don't need a machine
> that can do a cover stitch. As an adjunct to historical costume, you
> will be perfectly happy with a 3/4thread machine that has
> differential
> feed.
>
> Kim
> (ex-dealer)

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Chris Laning wrote:

> At 01:09 AM 6/17/2005, Adele wrote:
>>  If the original diameter was 23cm, that's a gauge of about 16st/in, 
>> but I think that the stockings must have shrunken considerably, given 
>> their current rather stumpy shape.
> 
> 
> I'm not sure silk would shrink under those conditions. I haven't tried 
> washing knitted silk, but my impression is that just as silk is 
> remarkably non-stretchy compared to wool, I'd expect it to be fairly 
> shrink-proof as well.

Silk shrinks. At least the modern silk fabric I used for my wedding 
dress did, and all I did to it was dunk it into a cool bath. (Good 
thing, too, because I got soaked to the skin in it taking pictures on my 
wet rainy wedding day) It shrunk several inches per yard. Wouldn't plain 
silk strands used for knitting shrink the same way as silk used in woven 
fabric?



Dawn


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Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 11:34:43 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about stockings
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Actually, silk used in knitting is likely not to shrink to the same 
extent.  The threads are under great tension during weaving, especially the 
warp threads.  In knitting, the strands "relax" after the knitting is done, 
so the resulting fabric is not under high tension (and none of us can knit 
under the tensions used in weaving).  Since woven fabric is often treated 
with sizing, removing the sizing will result not only in a change in hand 
of the fabric, but may also result in some shrinkage when the threads are 
no longer being held in place by the sizing.
Joan

At 01:12 PM 6/17/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Chris Laning wrote:
>
>>At 01:09 AM 6/17/2005, Adele wrote:
>>>  If the original diameter was 23cm, that's a gauge of about 16st/in, 
>>> but I think that the stockings must have shrunken considerably, given 
>>> their current rather stumpy shape.
>>
>>I'm not sure silk would shrink under those conditions. I haven't tried 
>>washing knitted silk, but my impression is that just as silk is 
>>remarkably non-stretchy compared to wool, I'd expect it to be fairly 
>>shrink-proof as well.
>
>Silk shrinks. At least the modern silk fabric I used for my wedding dress 
>did, and all I did to it was dunk it into a cool bath. (Good thing, too, 
>because I got soaked to the skin in it taking pictures on my wet rainy 
>wedding day) It shrunk several inches per yard. Wouldn't plain silk 
>strands used for knitting shrink the same way as silk used in woven fabric?
>
>Dawn

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Subject: [h-cost] 1856 farm clothing supplier
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Hi Everyone,

I was just given a job as a summer historic interpreter at a house museum, 
recreating the 1856 Mennonite family that lived there. They have most of the 
costume for me, but they're missing some things, and I was hoping someone 
could tell me where to find them asap. I begin July 1. I need shoes, 
stockings, garters for the stockings, and a farm woman's corset. I live in 
Ontario, Canada, so it would be best if the suppliers were in Canada, but 
that's unlikely, so the States would be fine, too. Oh, I also need drawers, 
right?

Also, the dresses they have are really heavy homespun, lined with linen, and 
are supposedly really hot. Is that correct? Why wouldn't they have worn a 
lighter cotton?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Laura


-- 
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www.thehungersite.com





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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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I have in a box the fine knitting needles you pointed out for me, and also 
machine embroidery silk i baught from Aurora silk.
I have not started the knitting of the stockings yeat, but i have made a 
sampler where i use 2 threads and i get 16 stitches an inch.
I am not kittin, i really plan to knit those stockings for myself, but i 
will make them next autumn vinter, because i dont want to waist this season 
of light, for my embroidery where the importance of colours in the 
embroidery really takes the best light of the summer period.
But my hands are ichy though..............

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Funny you should mention stockings.

I just started to TRY and knit a pait of stocking using Mara Riley's 18c pattern and graph and excellent instruction.  Note I said TRY , Its going to taker me a long time.

I wanted to do this for a long time, but it didn't really rise to the top of my radar til I saw some Halycon Silk and wool mixture. It is so nice. I got a color called apricot (authentic 18 cent.? I don't fully know, but I think it is close enough to Aurora to pass, a little more oranngy, rather that pinky, but it will have to pass)

I started on 00 needles, not quite fine enough. and the darned stuff kept slipping off the needles???!!!.  At a local knitting clatch at out Library in Charlotte, someone suggested, Try it on cirular Needles (my respose, do they have them that small?  Surprisingly they do.)  I could only get 000 circulars, which I am knitting on now.  lovely fine stiches now, but I know it will take me forever.  I only have about  1 inch of the stocking done. But the silk and wook is so lovely and fine

 

Mia in CHarlotte NC


		
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Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 11:54:35 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: stockings
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Yeah, silk is slippery stuff to knit.  I found that you need to knit a bit 
more tightly than with wool, since silk has much less than elasticity than 
wool.  I also found that I needed to have fewer stitches per needle than 
with wool to prevent them slipping off easily.
Joan

At 11:48 AM 6/17/2005 -0700, you wrote:

>Funny you should mention stockings.
>
>I just started to TRY and knit a pait of stocking using Mara Riley's 18c 
>pattern and graph and excellent instruction.  Note I said TRY , Its going 
>to taker me a long time.
>
>I wanted to do this for a long time, but it didn't really rise to the top 
>of my radar til I saw some Halycon Silk and wool mixture. It is so nice. I 
>got a color called apricot (authentic 18 cent.? I don't fully know, but I 
>think it is close enough to Aurora to pass, a little more oranngy, rather 
>that pinky, but it will have to pass)
>
>I started on 00 needles, not quite fine enough. and the darned stuff kept 
>slipping off the needles???!!!.  At a local knitting clatch at out Library 
>in Charlotte, someone suggested, Try it on cirular Needles (my respose, do 
>they have them that small?  Surprisingly they do.)  I could only get 000 
>circulars, which I am knitting on now.  lovely fine stiches now, but I 
>know it will take me forever.  I only have about  1 inch of the stocking 
>done. But the silk and wook is so lovely and fine
>
>
>
>Mia in CHarlotte NC

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     You can  also get little rubber ends to put on the double point
needles, on the non-working ends.  If the rubber ebds are too big,
you can poke the needle through them and they will hold.

     I don't kow how well circular needles work when you are decreasing. 
Do you need to get a shorter one?  Also you will find the double
points helpful when you divide the stitches to thrn the heel.

     -Carol


> I started on 00 needles, not quite fine enough. and the darned stuff kept
> slipping off the needles???!!!.  At a local knitting clatch at out Library
> in Charlotte, someone suggested, Try it on cirular Needles (my respose, do
> they have them that small?  Surprisingly they do.)  I could only get 000
> circulars, which I am knitting on now.  lovely fine stiches now, but I
> know it will take me forever.  I only have about  1 inch of the stocking
> done. But the silk and wook is so lovely and fine

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: stockings
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Mia... you have my admiration and my sympathy.  ; >  Been there done that - 
and IMO, it was worth all the effort.  Enjoy the journey and please let us 
se when you get there.
Wishing you success.
Bridgette

>I wanted to do this for a long time, but it didn't really rise to the top 
>of my radar til I saw some Halycon Silk and wool mixture. It is so nice. I 
>got a color called apricot (authentic 18 cent.? I don't fully know, but I 
>think it is close enough to Aurora to pass, a little more oranngy, rather 
>that pinky, but it will have to pass)
>
>I started on 00 needles, not quite fine enough. and the darned stuff kept 
>slipping off the needles???!!!.  At a local knitting clatch at out Library 
>in Charlotte, someone suggested, Try it on cirular Needles (my respose, do 
>they have them that small?  Surprisingly they do.)  I could only get 000 
>circulars, which I am knitting on now.  lovely fine stiches now, but I 
>know it will take me forever.  I only have about  1 inch of the stocking 
>done. But the silk and wook is so lovely and fine
>
>
>
>Mia in CHarlotte NC

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics
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Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote
>Anyway, any and all suggestions or experiences working with the various 
>velvets for hats would be appreciated. Also, any suggestions for 
>appropriate silk to use for lining the hats would be helpful. I am 
>concerned with using something too slippery, as I don't want them 
>falling or sliding around my head all the time.
>
With the designs I have tried, I would wear some sort of linen undercap 
under the part that grips your head, with the silk just lining the 
hanging parts of the velvet.  The velvet may be sewn directly to the 
structural bits, in which case you stop the silk at the edge of that, or 
may be a separate top layer pinned on, with lining throughout.

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics **Reply**
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Welcome back, Kimiko. I'm very sorry for your loss and overjoyed for
you girl-to-be.

I love to make hats and have taken classes and read a zillion books about it.

I've looked for millinery velvet and haven't been able to find it
anywhere. The closest I think I've come is upholstery velvet, and it
was SO thick I chickened out and didn't use it. No, velour isn't the
same thing. The velvet is usually by-the-yard and velour is usually in
a blocked or unblocked hat form. You could always purchase an
umblocked hood and cut it up if you wanted to. CalMill or Leko or
Manny's in New York (wonderful company, slow sometimes-overnight
others, their catalog is great, no website that I can remember). I'm
at work so I don't have the Manny's info here; google them. You will
have to send a check for their catalog and I don't remember how much
it costs - $8? $10?

I have used bengaline for later period Tudor hats and it works
beautifully. The issue is that bengaline fades in the bright sun
eventually, and I know that neither you nor I have ever done a fair
that wasn't bright sunshine. May I suggest a good weight, good quality
wool instead of velvet or velveteen. Wool gives a wonderfully rich
look to English renaissance pieces, and we all know that it's very
period. You'll also have a wider choice of colors in wool. As much as
I love silk (I'm one of the silk chemise proponents) I've used cotton
for all my hat linings; however, I've never made a gable hat. Don't
they tie on? Would small combs sewn into the sweat band help keep it
on your head in the right position? And please take the time to put in
a sweat band in millinary grossgrain, a.k.a. petersham, not the
regular grossgrain. If you can afford it, Cal Mill also has wide, thin
leather sweatbands (I think they're about $8-10), used in men's hats
but even better than the petersham for hat protection.  You know we
sweat into our hats, and the sweatband will protect the lining and the
buckram from the salt and the liquid. Sweatbands are easier and
cheaper to replace than the whole hat. Regular grossgrain is usually
made of polyester and won't absorb the sweat nor will it swirl the way
petersham will (check From the Head Up for how to swirl and why it's
so great).

And Kimiko, you may want to check out Lynn McMaster's website for info
and patterns for making many types of Renaissance style hats. I know
you've met her at Costume College.

Will we see you at Costume College this year, with your imminent
"visitation" or is October far enough away that you can make the trip
from Fresno? I hope to see you again there. Maybe we can take more
classes together.

LynnD


On 6/17/05, Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
> Hi Melody,
> 
> At 09:36 PM 6/16/2005, you wrote:
> >   **My condolences to you,lost my mom 362 days ago**
> 
> Thank you. My condolences to you as well. Moms are so very special, and
> it's hard to lose them.
> 
> >  ** do it one day at a time, don't rush your emotions**
> 
> I try that approach. Some days are definitely better than others. Today was
> a good one.
> 
> >** Congrats!,new life -a blessing**  which after two
> > > boys will be different for me. ** Just think, tennie
> >tinenie Tudors to make!**
> 
> Yeah, and girly styles this time. My boy toddler wore appropriate Tudor
> "gowns" and kept getting called a girl for it. Now I will have a girl in a
> gown. I guess I will have to make something else for my boy, as he's
> outgrown his old gown.
> 
> > > if cotton velvet or silk/rayon velvet would be
> > > better choices for hats?
> >** lighter in weight-heavier in nap,millinery velvet.
> >I think the cotton velvet is more in that line then
> >the silk**
> 
> I have yet to find millinery velvet, and only worked in cotton velvet once
> for a doublet. Cotton velvet is thicker than velveteen so I am wondering if
> it will be harder to sew up as a hat?
> 
> > > Is there a millinery velvet still available? I
> > > searched for millinery  velvet in LA's hat store
> >(the one at the edge of the garment district), but
> > > I didn't see it. Might have overlooked it
> > > considering how dark the place was.
> >  ** have 2 listings for supplies California Millinery
> >721 S.Spring .L.A.  and Richard the Thread 8320
> >Melrose #201 L.A. 800 748 5830 (check #)**
> 
> It was California Millinery that I went to in LA. Very dark place. They no
> longer send out catalogs of their things, and phone calls take forever to
> get answered. I forgot to ask about millinery velvet when I was there, but
> I did get other supplies like heavy buckram and heavy gauge wire.
> 
> I will have to dig up my Richard the Thread catalog and see if he carries
> millinery velvet. I've also checked Hats by Leko and JudithM Hats online,
> and they seem to carry velour, either pre-made hats or the fabric. Is that
> the same as millinery velvet?? I've been checking other online sources and
> still can't find millinery velvet. There is a mail order source I may have
> to try; Manny's Millinery Supply in NY.
> 
> >** what about using the silk only on the part that
> >shows and a cotton for the"works" part?**
> 
> I have used either linen or cotton for the lining before. I wanted to try a
> silk lining, but I am not sure what kind of silk would work best. (Maybe a
> crepe?) Even cotton ends up slipping around on my head. Seems china silk is
> the usual lining according to some websites, and the book.
> 
> > > ** hope this helps, You might want to take a look at
> >Denise Dreher"s "From the neck Up " book has info,tips
> >  & patters, I swear by mine**
> >   Melody
> 
> I have the book, which helped me before, but on the specifics of fabrics, I
> can't find anything really helpful regarding velvet, other than it saying
> that millinery velvet is more suitable than other velvets for hats. But
> thanks for reminding me to look at the book again. It's been a year since I
> read it last.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Laura Morlock wrote:

>Also, the dresses they have are really heavy homespun, lined with linen,
and are supposedly really hot. Is that correct? Why wouldn't they have worn
a lighter cotton?<

Is the dress linen or just the lining? I don't know enough about Mennonites
to know if this is related or not. During that same time period Quakers in
the US were shunning domestically produced cotton because is it was grown
with slave labor. They would use wool or linen instead, or if possible, buy
cottons from India. I know I've heard reference to the Amish (in
Pennsylvania at least) being anti-slavery but I don't know if they sought
out free labor products or not.

Beth Chamberlain

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Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 12:41:55 -0700
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Recommendation on Sergers Wanted
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To Nancy's original question:
I've got a New Home serger, the most expensive one I could afford when
I bought it, and I love it. I"m sure I'm not using it as completely as
I could, but it still intimidates me. I want to take another class on
all the things a serger can help me with this summer. I won't
recommend it because you can probably afford a better one than I got,
as happy with it as I am. However, sometime in the last year and a
half, Threads Magazine did a comparison report on different brands and
types of sergers, going from the least expensive ones to some really
expensive ones. I don't know if it's on their website or if you have
back issues of Threads or what, but that might be a really good place
to start research.

And, as Kim said, take your own fabric with you to try out. That
highly sized muslin they try to get you to use on the machines will
give you no real idea of what it'll do on your prewashed thick
fabrics. I brought heavy wools, light silks and velveteens to use with
the machines, and found that some of the more expensive machines
couldn't take the heavy fabrics I use constantly.

I always love it when someone is looking for a new machine. I remember
how exciting it was to sew on my serger for the first time!

LynnD

On 6/17/05, kim baird <kbaird@cableone.net> wrote:
> Yes, I use 3 threads to overcast cut edges and prevent raveling: both
> loopers and the left needle.
> 
> Even when I change colors, I rarely have to re-thread the machine. I
> simply dial the looper tensions down to ZERO, tie the new thread onto
> the old above the first thread guide, and pull it through. BUT--before
> you do this, cut the needle thread, then re-thread the needle after the
> loopers are done.
> 
> Don't forget to dial the tension back up from zero!
> 
> Kim
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio
> Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 10:35 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Recommendation on Sergers Wanted
> 
> 
> Ah ha! An expert!!
> 
> Ok, ravel question then. A 3/4 server is good for linen that will not
> quite raveling, yes?
> 
> One of my girlfriends just got a new one from her oh so wonderful hubby
> and he has been playing with it too. She is sooo lucky. ;)
> 
> Anyhow, that is her question. :)
> 
> Chiara
> 
> On Fri, June 17, 2005 9:48 am, kim baird said:
> > Nancy--
> >
> > I think you should dump the 12 year old Singer and get a new serger.
> >
> > And, even though all sergers are made in China or Japan or Korea, not
> > by the actual sewing machine companies (such as Pfaff or Singer), I
> > would
> > not recommend a Singer.
> >
> > You can find some very pricey sergers out there, with lots of bells
> > and whistles. Most of them do a great job, and many of the expensive
> > features are convenient, if you want to pay for them.
> >
> > But you can also find more basic sergers that work just as well, but
> > they make you do a little of the work yourself, adjusting tensions and
> > stitch lengths and widths rather than pushing a button for pre-set
> > stitches. These basic sergers are NOT difficult to thread, although
> > retailers take advantage of the serger's reputation as hard to
> > thread to
> > sell you models that are in some way self-threading. Again, if you
> > care
> > to pay extra, this is not a bad feature.
> >
> > Take some of the fabric you typically sew with, go to your favorite
> > dealer, and try out some sergers. Don't listen too closely to the
> > salesperson's spiel--judge by the machine itself, as you use it.
> >
> > If you NEVER sew modern clothing with knits, you don't need a machine
> > that can do a cover stitch. As an adjunct to historical costume, you
> > will be perfectly happy with a 3/4thread machine that has
> > differential
> > feed.
> >
> > Kim
> > (ex-dealer)
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics **Reply**
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Hi LynnD,

It's good to know you are still here, too. I always enjoy your posts.

At 12:29 PM 6/17/2005, you wrote:
>Welcome back, Kimiko. I'm very sorry for your loss and overjoyed for
>you girl-to-be.

Thank you on both counts.

>I love to make hats and have taken classes and read a zillion books about it.

I would love to take more in-depth hat making classes, but Fresno has zilch 
on millinery, and trips to LA or SF will have to wait for a year or two.

>I've looked for millinery velvet and haven't been able to find it
>anywhere. The closest I think I've come is upholstery velvet, and it
>was SO thick I chickened out and didn't use it.

I was wondering as well on upholstery velvet, because it is thicker, which 
is great for costumes, but on hats... my hands hurt enough after the 
velveteen Italian Bonnet I made for my hubby (I hate curved needles).

>No, velour isn't the
>same thing. The velvet is usually by-the-yard and velour is usually in
>a blocked or unblocked hat form. You could always purchase an
>umblocked hood and cut it up if you wanted to.

Thanks for the idea, but no thanks. The term "velour" in general reminds me 
of cheap stuff, and I wanted to go into nicer fabrics.

>I'm at work so I don't have the Manny's info here; google them. You will
>have to send a check for their catalog and I don't remember how much
>it costs - $8? $10?

Ok, I got their info, and will call them to find out how much their catalog is.

>I have used bengaline for later period Tudor hats and it works <snip>

I have used some bengaline before for a bodice for a friend, so I may have 
some around to try out. But you are right that sun fade would be an issue.

>May I suggest a good weight, good quality
>wool instead of velvet or velveteen.

Again, it would be an issue of weight and look. While you, I, and others 
here know wool is period and appropriate for court wear, the court group we 
work with (not my own, but another) prefers to stay away from wool, because 
that has more of a "merchant class" look that they don't want. They gave me 
all sorts of issues with my nice suit-weight wool surcoat, even with the 
velvet appliques.

><snip>however, I've never made a gable hat. Don't
>they tie on? Would small combs sewn into the sweat band help keep it
>on your head in the right position?

I have found one pattern for a gable that doesn't tie on, the pressure of 
the wires keep it on the head. The other patterns I have seen do have it 
tie on. Not sure yet which I am going to use.

I've used small hair combs in the past on my French hood, but even then the 
hat slides off the back of my head for some reason. It may have been the 
pattern or something else. The lining was cotton muslin.

>And please take the time to put in
>a sweat band in millinary grossgrain, a.k.a. petersham, not the
>regular grossgrain.

I bought some petersham at California Millinery last year which I plan on 
using.

><snip> Regular grossgrain is usually
>made of polyester and won't absorb the sweat nor will it swirl the way
>petersham will (check From the Head Up for how to swirl and why it's
>so great).

I will check that section out.

>And Kimiko, you may want to check out Lynn McMaster's website for info
>and patterns for making many types of Renaissance style hats. I know
>you've met her at Costume College.

I actually knew Lynn years ago when she was a member of the Royal Stewarts 
(they were based near Salinas/Monterey). I have a few of her patterns, like 
the Italian Bonnet I made for my hubby (which I enjoy wearing as well). I 
also have one of her french hoods and her tall hat. I may make the tall hat 
for my Elizabethan, but the gable and French hood come first.

>Will we see you at Costume College this year, with your imminent
>"visitation" or is October far enough away that you can make the trip
>from Fresno? I hope to see you again there. Maybe we can take more
>classes together.
>
>LynnD

Unfortunately, I didn't sign up for costume college this year, as I didn't 
know how long Mom's battle would last. She was doing fairly well until her 
final couple of weeks, so I expected to be busy in July/August. I plan on 
going next year if I can either take my baby with me (if she's quiet 
enough) or if I can leave her with daddy without too much hassle. Time will 
tell.

Please enjoy yourself at CC, and let me know of anything really interesting.

Kimiko


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics
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Hi Jean,

When you say a "linen undercap under the part that grips your head", do you 
mean something like a biggens or coif? Or did you mean linen lining the hat 
where it meets the head? If a separate undercap, how do you keep the main 
hat and the undercap together?

And I like the idea of a full lining in something else (my favorite lately 
is linen, would that work?) with only silk on those showing parts of a hat.

Thanks for the ideas.

Kimiko


At 12:10 PM 6/17/2005, you wrote:
>Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote
>>Anyway, any and all suggestions or experiences working with the various 
>>velvets for hats would be appreciated. Also, any suggestions for 
>>appropriate silk to use for lining the hats would be helpful. I am 
>>concerned with using something too slippery, as I don't want them falling 
>>or sliding around my head all the time.
>With the designs I have tried, I would wear some sort of linen undercap 
>under the part that grips your head, with the silk just lining the hanging 
>parts of the velvet.  The velvet may be sewn directly to the structural 
>bits, in which case you stop the silk at the edge of that, or may be a 
>separate top layer pinned on, with lining throughout.
>
>Jean
>
>--
>Jean Waddie



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Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 14:05:08 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics **Reply**
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Hi Elena,

Thanks for the suggestions. As I have shoulder length hair, I don't know if 
the bun idea would work, but it might. I read somewhere online about 
putting two front hair sections into a crisscross across the top of the 
head, and the back hair into a bun, to help stabilize a French hood I think 
it was. I will have to hunt that one down again as I can't find it in my 
Favorites folder.

I will have to remember the direction of the velvet nap as well (something 
I didn't even think about). And I hope I can find a deep pile velvet that 
isn't too thick to work through.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Kimiko


At 07:13 AM 6/17/2005, you wrote:
>Gee, I can't really snip 'cuz good info in the body!  I agree.  I found 
>that a really nappy deep velvet is a must, because when it 'breaks' on the 
>fold, the ground isn't staring the audience in the face.
>
>Also, when I made my little Italian Ren hat (think what Elenora of Toledo 
>wore), I used a fabric with a really *strong* one way nap on the lowest 
>edge, on the part that touches the hair.  I think I used a corduroy and 
>make sure the nap is pointing back towards the crown.  If you have it 
>facing forward the silly little thing will just slide forward.
>
>Another thing, to keep the hat on, since I had long hair at the time, I 
>dressed my hair in a tight bun to fit directly into the crown, so that I 
>could take a hat pin and pin my hairbun to the crown, making sure to 
>gently 'tug' the front of the hat back so the nap sets into the 
>hair.  Worked like a charm.
>
>Anyhow, these are my tips...for what they are worth...Now that I have 
>shorter hair, I'll have to think of a different way...I'm open to suggestions!
>
>--
>Slan go foill
>Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>
>Emer's Needle Wares




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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Recommendation on Sergers Wanted
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2005 22:06:52 +0000
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I found that linen dulled the serger blade on my serger very quickly...I learned to not serge linen and just do a different finish.  I find quite easy to fold the linen garment's cut seam edges into the seam(so the cut edges are inside the fold)  and sew at the folds, I sew that it up and looks like a top stitched french seam.

Not sure if I'm clear enough...*sigh*...let me know if I need to figure a better way to explain...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Ah ha! An expert!! 
> 
> Ok, ravel question then. A 3/4 server is good for linen that will 
> not quite raveling, yes? 
> 
> One of my girlfriends just got a new one from her oh so wonderful 
> hubby and he has been playing with it too. She is sooo lucky. ;) 
> 
> Anyhow, that is her question. :) 
> 
> Chiara 
> 
> On Fri, June 17, 2005 9:48 am, kim baird said: 
> > Nancy-- 
> > 
> > I think you should dump the 12 year old Singer and get a new serger. 
> > 
> > And, even though all sergers are made in China or Japan or Korea, 
> > not by 
> > the actual sewing machine companies (such as Pfaff or Singer), I 
> > would 
> > not recommend a Singer. 
> > 
> > You can find some very pricey sergers out there, with lots of bells 
> > and 
> > whistles. Most of them do a great job, and many of the expensive 
> > features are convenient, if you want to pay for them. 
> > 
> > But you can also find more basic sergers that work just as well, but 
> > they make you do a little of the work yourself, adjusting tensions 
> > and 
> > stitch lengths and widths rather than pushing a button for pre-set 
> > stitches. These basic sergers are NOT difficult to thread, although 
> > retailers take advantage of the serger's reputation as hard to 
> > thread to 
> > sell you models that are in some way self-threading. Again, if you 
> > care 
> > to pay extra, this is not a bad feature. 
> > 
> > Take some of the fabric you typically sew with, go to your favorite 
> > dealer, and try out some sergers. Don't listen too closely to the 
> > salesperson's spiel--judge by the machine itself, as you use it. 
> > 
> > If you NEVER sew modern clothing with knits, you don't need a 
> > machine 
> > that can do a cover stitch. As an adjunct to historical costume, you 
> > will be perfectly happy with a 3/4thread machine that has 
> > differential 
> > feed. 
> > 
> > Kim 
> > (ex-dealer) 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Mending hems-wasRe: [h-cost] Historicals costume out of Duct/Duck tape
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Sue Clemenger wrote:

>
> --sue, who once mended the hem of an SCA dress with duct tape, and 
> never, ever, ever will do it again that way (it does Truly Evyl Things 
> to velveteen)
>
When I was in catholic school  (uniforme was "kilts") we had a teacher 
who was so tierd of us going around with our hems falling apart that she 
would STAPEL our hems up!

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics **Reply**
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On 6/17/05, Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
> Hi LynnD,
> 
> SNIP>
> 
> 
> I was wondering as well on upholstery velvet, because it is thicker, which
> is great for costumes, but on hats... my hands hurt enough after the
> velveteen Italian Bonnet I made for my hubby (I hate curved needles).

If you use Milliners' needles, it may be easier on your hands.These
needles are quite thin with a large eye and they will bend with a bit
of work -  not into a semi-circle, but enough that you can get where
you need to get while making a hat of buckram. I've stopped using
almost any other kind of needle now for handwork.
> 
> >No, velour isn't the
> >same thing. The velvet is usually by-the-yard and velour is usually in
> >a blocked or unblocked hat form. You could always purchase an
> >umblocked hood and cut it up if you wanted to.
> 
> Thanks for the idea, but no thanks. The term "velour" in general reminds me
> of cheap stuff, and I wanted to go into nicer fabrics.

Hat velour isn't that flocked stuff you're probably thinking of. It's
a furry-er than usual felt, usually with a soft texture. A good velour
will cost more than a "nice" felt hood because it is a better quality
of felt.
> 
<SNIP Manny's and bengaline.> 

> >May I suggest a good weight, good quality
> >wool instead of velvet or velveteen.
> 
> Again, it would be an issue of weight and look. While you, I, and others
> here know wool is period and appropriate for court wear, the court group we
> work with (not my own, but another) prefers to stay away from wool, because
> that has more of a "merchant class" look that they don't want. They gave me
> all sorts of issues with my nice suit-weight wool surcoat, even with the
> velvet appliques.

Every group is different in their tastes and requirement, and there's
nothing one can do about it except educate or leave. As you know, many
faires say that no one but the queen can wear purple, whether it was
correct or not, because it only confuses the audience. The Northern
California faires stayed away from wools for a long time, but a good
(stout Englishman) wool is better than a cheap (woosy Frenchy)
velveteen almost any day. ;)
> 
> ><snip>however, I've never made a gable hat. Don't
> >they tie on? Would small combs sewn into the sweat band help keep it
> >on your head in the right position?
> 
> I have found one pattern for a gable that doesn't tie on, the pressure of
> the wires keep it on the head. The other patterns I have seen do have it
> tie on. Not sure yet which I am going to use.

> I've used small hair combs in the past on my French hood, but even then the
> hat slides off the back of my head for some reason. It may have been the
> pattern or something else. The lining was cotton muslin.

My hair is thinning now that I'm on the other side of childbirth, and
it's harder to do now, but you can also put a comb in the front of
your hat and attach it to a twist of hair in the front.

> SNIP petersham topic, Lynn McMasters, as wonderful as she is, and the upcoming Costume College in Los Angeles, CA> 
> 
> Please enjoy yourself at CC, and let me know of anything really interesting.
> 
> Kimiko
> 
Will do!

LynnD

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1856 farm clothing supplier
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At 02:33 PM 6/17/2005, Laura wrote:
>Hi Everyone,
>
>I was just given a job as a summer historic interpreter at a house museum,
>recreating the 1856 Mennonite family that lived there. They have most of the
>costume for me, but they're missing some things, and I was hoping someone
>could tell me where to find them asap. I begin July 1. I need shoes,
>stockings, garters for the stockings, and a farm woman's corset. I live in
>Ontario, Canada, so it would be best if the suppliers were in Canada, but
>that's unlikely, so the States would be fine, too. Oh, I also need drawers,
>right?

Gohn Brothers, Middlebury, Indiana (USA). This is a small and delightful 
Mennonite company that has interesting stuff at very very reasonable 
prices. I haven't checked lately to see if they are still in business, but 
I'd be surprised if they weren't. The last time I wrote to them, they had a 
plain-paper catalog (no pictures) and the only address necessary to reach 
them was "Gohn Brothers, Middlebury Indiana [zipcode]." I know they had 
shoes, black cotton stockings, and garters -- not sure about the other 
stuff. (I phoned them once and one of the actual brothers answered the phone :)

You can also search around for "Lehman Bros." which used to carry odd 
farm-things like working scythes -- again, don't know if they still do. 
Also in the US, the Vermont Country Store sometimes has authentic items of 
various kinds, but the last time I saw their catalog they seemed to be 
focused on "nostalgia" from the first half of the 20th century.

Hope these help --

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0  Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
0  <http://paternoster-row.org>  <http://paternosters.blogspot.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: A busk, looking for pictures, late16th c
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>I've got pictures somewhere, and I'll try to find and post them, of the

Thanks, Carmen, appreciate it. 

>attachments.  I've seen holes in the busk that correspond to eyelets in the
>corset, with ribbon points to thread through both and tie.  That's the
>method I use for my 17th cen. corsets.  I've also seen one that seemed to
>have an extra long casing for the busk, with eyelets through both coset and
>busk pocket, so that the ribbon didn't pass through the busk at all, but
>closed the busk pocket.
I've trolled Google images. Absolutely none have holes thru the busk
for points.  One, 18th c busk was pierced as part of the carved
design.  Looks like lace. Pretty!

Where do you put the busk-point eyelets and why did you choose this
(those?) locations? (This query to all the busk-wearing Elizabeth
re-enactors out there.)

The one I really want a pic of is in the Louvre, Objet d'Art
collection, made of fanon de baleine, early 17th c (the reference is
from a catalog list of ivory & related objects.  I think it's the
closest I'm going to get to 1600.

Sorry, little slow responding to you, 
--cin
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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>When I was in catholic school  (uniforme was "kilts") we had a teacher who 
>was so tierd of us going around with our hems falling apart that she would 
>STAPLE our hems up!

I actually used that trick last month, when I was putting on a dress to 
wear to the graduation ceremony of the school I work for -- and realized 
that the under-dress's hem was showing. So I quickly stapled it up a couple 
of inches. It held for the evening, which was all I needed!

ObHistorical: It was one of my 13thc linen gowns I was wearing, and the 
white linen undergown was what was showing <g>. I figured it was a 
comfortable, cool, plain linen dress in a flattering color, and with a 
conventional jacket over it, it only looked *slightly* odd! I always have 
trouble with the graduation events as I have essentially NO modern dress-up 
clothes.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0  Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
0  <http://paternoster-row.org>  <http://paternosters.blogspot.com>
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As a middle school teacher, I see a lot of droopy pants. Unfortunately, what these boys don't know is that this style developed in prisons. The droppy pants signal to the rest of the inmates, that they are (How does one say this is a politically correct manner?) be on the receiving end of homosexual intercourse. I wonder how many of the boys who wear their pants droopy really want that message sent out?
 
As far as the girls, their pants are getting to that ultra-tight stage again. In the 70's some girls used wooden spoons to press themselves into their jeans. It was the big fashion in Texas for the cowgirl. I wonder if the boys will soon follow suit.
 
Mary Lawhorne

		
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It may depend on the weave, more than the fiber in this case....If your 
modern silk fabric had sizing in it, that might make a difference, and 
if it was a twill weave (wedding satin, anyone? <g>), it might "shrink" 
differently than a knitted fabric or plain-weave fabric.
--sue

Dawn wrote:


> Silk shrinks. At least the modern silk fabric I used for my wedding 
> dress did, and all I did to it was dunk it into a cool bath. (Good 
> thing, too, because I got soaked to the skin in it taking pictures on my 
> wet rainy wedding day) It shrunk several inches per yard. Wouldn't plain 
> silk strands used for knitting shrink the same way as silk used in woven 
> fabric?


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: stockings
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Normally, I'd say if you had a problem with the yarn slipping off
needles, try some wooden ones, but I don't think they make them that 
fine.  Circulars never would have occured to me, since I didn't know you 
could get them that small--where ever did you find them?
--sue

Mia Dappert wrote:

> Funny you should mention stockings.
> 
> I just started to TRY and knit a pait of stocking using Mara Riley's
> 18c pattern and graph and excellent instruction.  Note I said TRY ,
> Its going to taker me a long time.
> 
> I wanted to do this for a long time, but it didn't really rise to the
> top of my radar til I saw some Halycon Silk and wool mixture. It is
> so nice. I got a color called apricot (authentic 18 cent.? I don't
> fully know, but I think it is close enough to Aurora to pass, a
> little more oranngy, rather that pinky, but it will have to pass)
> 
> I started on 00 needles, not quite fine enough. and the darned stuff
> kept slipping off the needles???!!!.  At a local knitting clatch at
> out Library in Charlotte, someone suggested, Try it on cirular
> Needles (my respose, do they have them that small?  Surprisingly they
> do.)  I could only get 000 circulars, which I am knitting on now.
> lovely fine stiches now, but I know it will take me forever.  I only
> have about  1 inch of the stocking done. But the silk and wook is so
> lovely and fine

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about stockings
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Joan Jurancich wrote:

> Most shrinkage associated with wool is due to felting (or fulling).  
> Silk does not felt, and one can stretch it back out after shrinkage.
>
>>
>>
>> Maybe the stockings react like modern pantyhose? After washing they 
>> look baggy and child-sized - but stretch to fit an adult.
>>
>>
>> > > >  If the original diameter was 23cm, that's a gauge of about
>> > 16st/in, but I think that the stockings must have shrunken 
>> considerably,
>> > given their current rather stumpy shape.
>> >
>> > I'm not sure silk would shrink under those conditions. I haven't
>> > tried washing knitted silk, but my impression is that just as silk is
>> > remarkably non-stretchy compared to wool, I'd expect it to be 
>> fairly shrink-
>> > proof as well.
>

It may be that the knit fabric has more distorted than shrunk per se.  
Keep in mind that we can't readily test the conditions they were 
subjected to -- Eleonora's stockings did spend 300-odd years clothing a 
corpse :-)

Adele d'M

>> >
>

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From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: stockings
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in regards to knitting on circulars when you have to decrease smaller
than the one circular needle... use two of them, will let you go around
curves and still keep it all on your needles...

alex

--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:

> Normally, I'd say if you had a problem with the yarn slipping off
> needles, try some wooden ones, but I don't think they make them that 
> fine.  Circulars never would have occured to me, since I didn't know
> you 
> could get them that small--where ever did you find them?
> --sue
> 
> Mia Dappert wrote:
> 
> > Funny you should mention stockings.
> > 
> > I just started to TRY and knit a pait of stocking using Mara
> Riley's
> > 18c pattern and graph and excellent instruction.  Note I said TRY ,
> > Its going to taker me a long time.
> > 
> > I wanted to do this for a long time, but it didn't really rise to
> the
> > top of my radar til I saw some Halycon Silk and wool mixture. It is
> > so nice. I got a color called apricot (authentic 18 cent.? I don't
> > fully know, but I think it is close enough to Aurora to pass, a
> > little more oranngy, rather that pinky, but it will have to pass)
> > 
> > I started on 00 needles, not quite fine enough. and the darned
> stuff
> > kept slipping off the needles???!!!.  At a local knitting clatch at
> > out Library in Charlotte, someone suggested, Try it on cirular
> > Needles (my respose, do they have them that small?  Surprisingly
> they
> > do.)  I could only get 000 circulars, which I am knitting on now.
> > lovely fine stiches now, but I know it will take me forever.  I
> only
> > have about  1 inch of the stocking done. But the silk and wook is
> so
> > lovely and fine
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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>At a local knitting clatch at out Library in Charlotte, someone suggested, 
>Try it on cirular Needles (my respose, do they have them that 
>small?  Surprisingly they do.)  I could only get 000 circulars, which I am 
>knitting on now.

My mother knits lace doilies on circular needles, and she uses thread 
almost as fine as sewing thread, so there must be some pretty teensy-gauge 
circular needles out there.  She starts out on wire double-pointed needles, 
goes to sleeve-size circular needles, then to bigger circular ones.  She 
might get them mail-order from someplace, but I don't know.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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There is one dress with corset in Pattrens of fhasion from Dorothea.
The corset and dress has holes to put lacing thru.
So it atached the corset to the bodice of the dress.
Probably to keep the bodice point from curling up.
And maby even for keeping a jeweld belt in place.
So I wonder if it was for keeping the busk in place.
I don't think it wil work as I see where the holes are placed.

Greetings,
       Deredere

>>
>> What I hope to find is pictographic evidence on how to attach the 
>> busk points (laces).  Do they go thru holes in the busk? do they join 
>> thru or to a corset?  Are they simply attached to the sarcenet busk 
>> casing?
>> Are busk laces attached permanently so that giving busk laces to your 
>> paramour is something best at home? Does the lace pass thru some 
>> combo of corset, casing & busk meaning that to acquire a lace means the
>> lover has some detailed, intimate knowledge of womens' costume?
>


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	<42B20DFA.1090202@thibault.org><42B216DD.1090902@paradise.net.nz><4.3.1.2.20050616174336.02725c08@mail.frys.com><BAY106-DAV187A6A95D1D9ABD25086CBF6F40@phx.gbl><42B25A65.1040809@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: Mending hems-wasRe: [h-cost] Historicals costume out of Duct/Duck
	tape
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 01:02:57 +1200
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> When I was in catholic school  (uniforme was "kilts") we had a teacher
> who was so tierd of us going around with our hems falling apart that she
> would STAPEL our hems up!

Heh, while working on Jack of All Trades our hems were taped and then
finally held together using plastic tags! You know the sort sed to hold
price tags in garments? It worked well too, as we were in damp sand most
mornings which is when the damage to the hems actually happened.

michaela "My butt is famous" de bruce
http://glittersweet.com
Not many people can lay claim to having an ECU on their bottom for a TV
series;) it was a stunt goosing that I'm not sure made it to the final cut
having not yet seen the episode...



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jun 18 11:38:03 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: A busk, looking for pictures,
	late16th c/placement of eyelets
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In a message dated 6/17/2005 4:22:16 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
cinbarnes@gmail.com writes:

Where do  you put the busk-point eyelets and why did you choose this
(those?)  locations? (This query to all the busk-wearing Elizabeth
re-enactors out  there.)



I drilled two holes in the red oak busk that I made, and placed them about  a 
quarter of an inch from the top of the busk.  I then worked two eyelet  holes 
, well, actually four counting front and back, in the corset so that I  could 
run both ends of a small ribbon through from the back, then through the  
corset, and tie it in the front.  
 
And yes, I have given a couple of busk ribbons away in my time.
 
;-)
~Kimberley
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jun 18 15:21:49 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Quick Fixes...wasRe: Mending hems-
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While on the subject of quick fixes for hems.  I've just discovered that glue sticks work wonders on holes in hose.  The trick, though, is to catch it before it starts to run.   The neat thing is that it doesn't get stiff like nail polish and even lasts through the wash. 

I used to use nail polish, but then I dumped my *really* old stash years ago, and didn't have any around when I started wearing hose again.  Tried the elmers (or whatever brand it was) glue stick and voila!

I'd love to hear other fixes...if this isn't too OT..

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> > When I was in catholic school (uniforme was "kilts") we had a teacher 
> > who was so tierd of us going around with our hems falling apart that she 
> > would STAPEL our hems up! 
> 
> Heh, while working on Jack of All Trades our hems were taped and then 
> finally held together using plastic tags! You know the sort sed to hold 
> price tags in garments? It worked well too, as we were in damp sand most 
> mornings which is when the damage to the hems actually happened. 
> 
> michaela "My butt is famous" de bruce 
> http://glittersweet.com 
> Not many people can lay claim to having an ECU on their bottom for a TV 
> series;) it was a stunt goosing that I'm not sure made it to the final cut 
> having not yet seen the episode... 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message. 
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. 
> Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.7.8/22 - Release Date: 17/06/2005 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Laura wrote: 

> I need shoes,
> stockings, garters for the stockings, and a farm woman's corset.

I live in the US, so most of the suppliers I know about are here :(  For the corset, I reccomened Kay Gnagney, her website is:
http://www.originals-by-kay.com/
I purchased by corset from her, and found it to be both very comfortable and durable.  For garters I suggest The Stevenson House their contact info can be found at this website:
http://usregulars.web.aplus.net/vendors.html  
They also have a website, which I can't acess at the moment:
http://www.thestevensonhouse.com/
They sell very nice, very comfortable flat woven elastic garters.
For stockings, I just about any vendor who sells clothing to the 17th/18th/19th century reenactment  crowd will sell stockings and most of them seem to come from the same place.
For shoes I highly reccomend Missouri Boot and Shoe.  Their work is top notch in terms of quality and authenticity.Their website is:
www.missouribootandshoe.com
There is also a shoemaker in Canada (I belive he is in Niagra Falls) who is highly spoken of, but I can't recall his name or find his contact information easily.

> Oh, I also need drawers,
> right?
>

I don't know much about Canada specifically, but in the US in the late 1850's and well into the 1860's there were a lot of women, especially rural women who didn't wear drawers.  I would say that they are probobly "optional" for you.  Also, some people thought that drawers, being bifurcated were inappropriate for women.  I don't know if the Mennonites thought that or not, but it might be a factor.
 

hope this helps,
Katie

Buffy: And what are we if not women up to a challenge? 
Willow: Exactly!  I mean, did we not put the 'grr' in girl?






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Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 15:34:23 -0400
From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1856 farm clothing supplier
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Hello

	I would be careful on relying on either Gohn Brothers or Lehman's.  The
Amish are NOT living history enthusiasts.  Just because some of there
lifestyle seems primitive does not mean that they are living a mid
nineteenth century lifestyle.  In fact if you receive the Gohn Brothers
catalog, you will be surprised by how much of it is man made, let alone more
modern styles.

	Some of there items are useful with some alteration, some is not.  I don't
think I have any of there catalogs anymore, I suspect that stockings and
garters can easily be had from them. They can also be easily had from just
about every reenacting supplier (sutler) out there.  These often have some
manmade material in them, usually for stretch.  That may or may not be a
problem for you.

	For shoes, there are a few resources out there.  Since you specifically
preferred Canadian sources I will first suggest Robert Land.  He can be
contacted at R. Land Footwear [rlandfootwear@rogers.com].  He has no website
unfortunately.  I do not know if he has a catalog.  He seems to live very
close to the border.  He does make women's shoes.  Many of the 19th century
shoemakers out there do not. He can also send you photos through email.
Sometimes he sell seconds and castoffs on Ebay.   Confederate Yankee, and
American sutlery at http://www.confederateyankee.ws/ carry some of his shoes
if you have trouble contacting him.  He can also send you photos through
email.

	Another supplier, cheaper but with less variation and styles as well as
being south of the border, is Fugawee. http://www.fugawee.com/

	I can't say I know much about modern Mennonites or the Amish for that
matter, save what I have learned in my own observations and in some cases
discussions with a few of them.  I would be very surprised however if there
are not some assumptions that are made regarding the present that may not be
applicable to the past.  I think you will need to do some research there.

	As far as your questions regarding wool gowns.  Today the Mennonite women I
see tend to wear cotton, so at least at present, that doesn't appear to be a
problem. I do think the earlier idea makes sense (not giving profit to
slavers) though like that poster I have no idea what the Mennonite stand on
such a thing might be.  On the other hand, they do prefer to be
self-sufficient, and to avoid doing business with the englishers (except
where they are profiting).  On the other hand, none of these matters would
prevent linen dresses.  I suspect there may be room for research to
determine if it is even true.  Where I work, people see us dressed in the
cold and say, " that must be very hot to wear in the summer!"  Yes it would
be, which is why we do dress differently in the summer!

	Lastly, as has been mentioned here before, wool does not equal hot.

Ron Carnegie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Laura Morlock
> Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 1:34 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] 1856 farm clothing supplier
>
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I was just given a job as a summer historic interpreter at a
> house museum,
> recreating the 1856 Mennonite family that lived there. They have
> most of the
> costume for me, but they're missing some things, and I was hoping someone
> could tell me where to find them asap. I begin July 1. I need shoes,
> stockings, garters for the stockings, and a farm woman's corset.
> I live in
> Ontario, Canada, so it would be best if the suppliers were in Canada, but
> that's unlikely, so the States would be fine, too. Oh, I also
> need drawers,
> right?
>
> Also, the dresses they have are really heavy homespun, lined with
> linen, and
> are supposedly really hot. Is that correct? Why wouldn't they have worn a
> lighter cotton?
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
> Laura
>
>
> --
> How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before
> starting to
> improve the world.
> -Anne Frank
> www.thehungersite.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------
> This mail sent through www.mywaterloo.ca
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing (UL)
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Mary Lawhorne wrote:
> Unfortunately, what these boys don't know is that this style
> developed in prisons.

True.

> The droppy pants signal to the rest of the
> inmates, that they are be on the receiving end of homosexual intercourse.

Apparently not true.

Full details at http://www.snopes.com/risque/homosex/sagging.asp but the 
crux is "Sagging pants became the behind-the-bars thing thanks to 
ill-fitting prison-issue garb: some of those incarcerated were provided 
with clothing a few sizes too large. That oversizing, coupled with the 
lack of belts in the big house..."

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The smart way to keep people passive and obedient is to strictly limit 
the spectrum of acceptable opinion, but allow very lively debate within 
that spectrum.  -- Noam Chomsky
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At 04:37 PM 6/18/2005, you wrote:

>>The droppy pants signal to the rest of the
>>inmates, that they are be on the receiving end of homosexual intercourse.
>
>Apparently not true.
>
>Full details at http://www.snopes.com/risque/homosex/sagging.asp but the 
>crux is "Sagging pants became the behind-the-bars thing thanks to 
>ill-fitting prison-issue garb: some of those incarcerated were provided 
>with clothing a few sizes too large. That oversizing, coupled with the 
>lack of belts in the big house..."

This is interesting. There seems to be a tendency for people to attribute 
complicated "code" meanings to certain items of clothing they regard as 
"strange" or "unusual" or -- for that matter -- related to a particular 
ethnicity. Of course, sometimes people _do_ have elaborate "codes" of 
meaning, but what interests me is that there seems to be a particular 
eagerness to believe such stories whether they have any basis or not. It 
seems to be a very attractive sort of explanation for some reason. Remember 
when there was supposed to be a great deal of esoteric significance -- 
again related to homosexuality in this case -- to exactly where or in which 
ears men wore earrings? Now they seem to be just earrings, for the most part.

(And I just this afternoon ran across a website that attributed a "code" to 
the placement of a "claddagh" ring -- third finger of the right hand with 
the ring's heart pointing toward the fingernail means one is 'single and 
looking,' for instance, whereas with the heart pointing the other way it 
means one has a sweetheart....)

As I say, certainly sometimes such things _are_ used as codes, I just find 
it interesting that it's a _type_ of explanation that seems to arise very 
easily and to be readily believed when it does, regardless of truth.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0  Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
0  <http://paternoster-row.org>  <http://paternosters.blogspot.com>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 


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Chris Laning wrote:
> As I say, certainly sometimes such things _are_ used as codes, I just 
> find it interesting that it's a _type_ of explanation that seems to 
> arise very easily and to be readily believed when it does, regardless of 
> truth.

In this case, I think it's also an attempt to persuade kids not to do it 
-- rather like the "janitor washes the girl's bathroom mirror with the 
toilet brush" thing.  The hope is that the kids will be so horrified 
that they'll stop.

-- 
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume notes 1662
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http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1662/06/18/index.php

"That done he and I walked to Lilly’s, the painter’s, where we saw among 
other rare things, the Duchess of York, her whole body, sitting instate 
in a chair, in white sattin, and another of the King, that is not 
finished; most rare things."


-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jun 18 20:46:51 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Dye experiments
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As I mentioned I am doing a washing-machine dye lot of knit tops once 
every week or so, and trying to figure out how to get something like the 
chart colors.  Of course the different vendors of the same Procion MX 
dyes print some of the same colors differently on their charts, but anyway:

When I use 100% cotton knit tops bought from Dharma, prewashed in 
Synthrapol and hot water and rinsed twice, the dye amounts recommended 
by Dharma (weighed for greater accuracy than measuring spoons) the 
amount of soda ash recommended, and 3 cups of salt per 15-gallon washer 
load:

I get a medium shade.

When I do all the same things but use the full amount of salt recommended:

I get one shade darker, but still a medium shade of colors that are dark 
on the chart.  Perceptibly but not drastically different from the color 
produced by the reduced-salt method.

When I do all the same things, including using the full amount of salt 
AND doubling the quantity of dye, I get fairly close to the shade on the 
chart. At least with the colors I've tried. 

In other words, the quantity of water used by a washing machine (our 
small load is 15 gallons) really does make a difference, and the 
quantity of dye should be increased for washer dyeing.

That's my experience so far, anyway.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun 19 06:59:26 2005
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Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 11:56:12 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics
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Either way.  I tend towards separate pieces, pinned together (pins, 
pins, pins!  If your headdress annoys you, stick pins in it till it 
stops!).  I find it easier to make everything behave - a cap/coif/thingy 
to control my hair and act as a base layer, then a structural element, 
then the "fashion fabric" which can be draped as you like without it 
having to meet multiple functions.  But if you prefer to make it as a 
single unit you can just put linen lining on the bits which are close to 
your head, and therefore invisible, and silk on the parts that will 
show.

In actual fact, my gable doesn't use anything to keep it on except the 
shape which (gently) grips the head.  Once you have a base that is not 
going to slide on your hair, the next layer will not slide on it, and 
the top layer is pinned.

Jean


Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote
>Hi Jean,
>
>When you say a "linen undercap under the part that grips your head", do 
>you mean something like a biggens or coif? Or did you mean linen lining 
>the hat where it meets the head? If a separate undercap, how do you 
>keep the main hat and the undercap together?
>
>And I like the idea of a full lining in something else (my favorite 
>lately is linen, would that work?) with only silk on those showing 
>parts of a hat.
>
>Thanks for the ideas.
>
>Kimiko
>
>
>At 12:10 PM 6/17/2005, you wrote:
>>Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote
>>>Anyway, any and all suggestions or experiences working with the 
>>>various velvets for hats would be appreciated. Also, any suggestions 
>>>for appropriate silk to use for lining the hats would be helpful. I 
>>>am concerned with using something too slippery, as I don't want them 
>>>falling or sliding around my head all the time.
>>With the designs I have tried, I would wear some sort of linen 
>>undercap under the part that grips your head, with the silk just 
>>lining the hanging parts of the velvet.  The velvet may be sewn 
>>directly to the structural bits, in which case you stop the silk at 
>>the edge of that, or may be a separate top layer pinned on, with 
>>lining throughout.
>>
>>Jean
>>
>>--
>>Jean Waddie
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Curved needles
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Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote
>On 6/17/05, Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
>> Hi LynnD,
>>
>> SNIP>
>>
>>
>> I was wondering as well on upholstery velvet, because it is thicker, which
>> is great for costumes, but on hats... my hands hurt enough after the
>> velveteen Italian Bonnet I made for my hubby (I hate curved needles).
>
>If you use Milliners' needles, it may be easier on your hands.These
>needles are quite thin with a large eye and they will bend with a bit
>of work -  not into a semi-circle, but enough that you can get where
>you need to get while making a hat of buckram. I've stopped using
>almost any other kind of needle now for handwork.

Can anyone tell me, is there any type of curved needle you can buy that 
isn't a complete semicircle?  They drive me nuts, the way you can't get 
the point into the fabric without the other end being on the fabric, 
which makes them so unwieldy.  I always think a third of a circle would 
be so much easier to handle - do they exist?

Jean
-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1856 farm clothing supplier
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Hello all,
I belong to the members-only (restricted) PlainandModestDress group at  
yahoo, which was begun by a plain-dressing Quaker lady, but is populated with  
plain dressers of many religions and persuasions.  Historic Mennonite  garments 
have been discussed there several times, but the linen question has not  come up 
before.  I will be glad to post it and see if anyone knows the  answer.
 
Also, must agree with Ron Carnegie in his comments on Amish & Mennonite  
suppliers.  Even though well-made, many of the products are 100% polyester  --as 
in, not even blends.  Gohn Brothers and Lehmans are both still  producing 
according to members of the group, as they are often mentioned.   However, Gohn 
reportedly stays rather backed up.  The other sources  mentioned for footwear and 
accessories for living history would more than  likely be your better 
resources for authentic, historically-made  attire.  The mindset of modern 
plain-dressing groups is not  geared toward history --it interests them as a part of 
their continual search  for simplicity, and some of them who find modern 
undergarments abhorrently  uncomfortable are even exploring wearing things like 
sensible stays --but  historical accuracy is not their main interest.
 
If anyone is interested in learning more about Mennonite & Amish and  other 
plain-dressing groups, you could start by searching thru these 2 online  lists 
of links here:
 
_http://www.nonviolence.org/quaker/plain/_ 
(http://www.nonviolence.org/quaker/plain/)  (http://www.nonviolence.org/) 
 
_http://stanosheck.com/Modesty.html_ (http://stanosheck.com/Modesty.html) 
 
Hope this helps,
 
Best regards,
Susannah
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 20 08:57:39 2005
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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My understanding is that it did develop in prison BUT because prison-issued clothing didn't necessarily fit, not because it was sending a message.

I have to say I HATE that fashion, regardless of how it developed. If air circulation is what's desired, why not go with kilts? If female minds are meant to be distracted by imagining what's holding the pants up, yuck--THIS female mind can generate MUCH sexier fantasies than that! If they just want to fall over their clothes, untied shoelaces would do the trick.

As for the tight pants, I can recall (1968) lying on my bed, shoulders-on-bed hips-raised, waiting for gravity to move my flesh neckward sufficiently so that my lower torso could squeeze into my hip-hugger bells. Never thought of spoons! 

I'd be content (delighted really) if both sexes went back to the way chinos used to fit the guys back in '64--snug in the butt, straight down from there. Now, THAT was sexy.

I beg pardon for offering this peek into my gently dirty mind. What can I say?--I teach English; we're all a little perverted!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: Mary Lawhorne <texas_byrd@yahoo.com>
Sent: Jun 17, 2005 6:59 PM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing

As a middle school teacher, I see a lot of droopy pants. Unfortunately, what these boys don't know is that this style developed in prisons. The droppy pants signal to the rest of the inmates, that they are (How does one say this is a politically correct manner?) be on the receiving end of homosexual intercourse. I wonder how many of the boys who wear their pants droopy really want that message sent out?
 
As far as the girls, their pants are getting to that ultra-tight stage again. In the 70's some girls used wooden spoons to press themselves into their jeans. It was the big fashion in Texas for the cowgirl. I wonder if the boys will soon follow suit.
 
Mary Lawhorne

		
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From: Mara Riley <corbiegirl@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: urban legends, was 'droopy pants'
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I've recently seen yet another example of this.  A friend of mine was
at a recent costume workshop where someone (giving a lecture,
unfortunately) said that in the 18th century, only prostitutes wore
banyans.  This is false and absolutely ridiculous -- I've seen enough
portraits of respectable women wearing dressing gowns from the 18th
c. to know better.

Why is it that some people automatically decide that anything they
dislike about 18th c. women's clothing can be attributed to
prostitutes?  I've heard rumors that various colors of stockings
(red, green, yellow) were only worn by prostitutes --  this, again,
is demonstrably false, since perfectly respectable women wore
stockings of various colors without any stain on their virtue
resulting.

I'm SO tired of these things popping up.  Time to add another 'rant'
to the reenacting myths part of my website, I guess!

-- Mara


--------------------------
At 04:37 PM 6/18/2005, you wrote:
This is interesting. There seems to be a tendency for people to 
attribute 
complicated "code" meanings to certain items of clothing they regard 
as 
"strange" or "unusual" or -- for that matter -- related to a 
particular 
ethnicity. Of course, sometimes people _do_ have elaborate "codes" of

meaning, but what interests me is that there seems to be a particular

eagerness to believe such stories whether they have any basis or not.

It 
seems to be a very attractive sort of explanation for some reason. 
Remember 
when there was supposed to be a great deal of esoteric significance 
-- 
again related to homosexuality in this case -- to exactly where or in

which 
ears men wore earrings? Now they seem to be just earrings, for the 
most part.

---------------------
www.marariley.net - 18th century research and knitting patterns
www.knittingobsession.com - modern knitting stuff
---------------------
Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd. - Voltaire
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Thanks, everybody, for all your help! Another question - some of the work 
dresses are short sleeved, about the length of a t-shirt. I was surprised by 
this - is it correct? I know the women who work there complain of dying in 
the heat, and so perhaps the took a short cut to coolness?

Thanks again,
Laura








 I belong to the members-only (restricted) PlainandModestDress group at  
 yahoo, which was begun by a plain-dressing Quaker lady, but is populated 
with  
 plain dressers of many religions and persuasions.  Historic Mennonite  
garments 
 have been discussed there several times, but the linen question has not  
come up 
 before.  I will be glad to post it and see if anyone knows the  answer.
  
 Also, must agree with Ron Carnegie in his comments on Amish & Mennonite  
 suppliers.  Even though well-made, many of the products are 100% polyester  
--as 
 in, not even blends.  Gohn Brothers and Lehmans are both still  producing 
 according to members of the group, as they are often mentioned.   However, 
Gohn 
 reportedly stays rather backed up.  The other sources  mentioned for 
footwear and 
 accessories for living history would more than  likely be your better 
 resources for authentic, historically-made  attire.  The mindset of modern 
 plain-dressing groups is not  geared toward history --it interests them as 
a part of 
 their continual search  for simplicity, and some of them who find modern 
 undergarments abhorrently  uncomfortable are even exploring wearing things 
like 
 sensible stays --but  historical accuracy is not their main interest.
  
 If anyone is interested in learning more about Mennonite & Amish and  other 
 plain-dressing groups, you could start by searching thru these 2 online  
lists 
 of links here:
  
 _http://www.nonviolence.org/quaker/plain/_ 
 (http://www.nonviolence.org/quaker/plain/)  (http://www.nonviolence.org/) 
  
 _http://stanosheck.com/Modesty.html_ (http://stanosheck.com/Modesty.html) 
  
 Hope this helps,
  
 Best regards,
 Susannah

-- 
How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to 
improve the world.
-Anne Frank
www.thehungersite.com





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Now see, I was recently told by a woman who claims to be in the know, that she had done several interviews while working on her master's on this subject.  According to her, the style started to show that you were no different from other poor people who had to wear ill fitting hand me down clothing.  I thought that sounded absolutely ridiculous, but she was very sincere that this is what she had been told in her interviews. 
 
Whatever the reason, I hate it.  I am offended that I have to see men and boys, sometimes toddlers, with their pants well into the middle of their butts and their underwear showing.  I do not understand why any level of society would condone and encourage this type of behavior and style of dress, and find it peculiar that such is permitted with men.  Women would never be allowed to dress like that.
 
Or, maybe it is just that we have enough sense not to....but then, there are the chicks that like the whole thong above the top of the jeans thing.
 
;-)
~Kimberley
 
-----Original Message-----
From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 07:56:38 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing


My understanding is that it did develop in prison BUT because prison-issued 
clothing didn't necessarily fit, not because it was sending a message.

I have to say I HATE that fashion, regardless of how it developed. If air 
circulation is what's desired, why not go with kilts? If female minds are meant 
to be distracted by imagining what's holding the pants up, yuck--THIS female 
mind can generate MUCH sexier fantasies than that! If they just want to fall 
over their clothes, untied shoelaces would do the trick.

As for the tight pants, I can recall (1968) lying on my bed, shoulders-on-bed 
hips-raised, waiting for gravity to move my flesh neckward sufficiently so that 
my lower torso could squeeze into my hip-hugger bells. Never thought of spoons! 

I'd be content (delighted really) if both sexes went back to the way chinos used 
to fit the guys back in '64--snug in the butt, straight down from there. Now, 
THAT was sexy.

I beg pardon for offering this peek into my gently dirty mind. What can I 
say?--I teach English; we're all a little perverted!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: Mary Lawhorne <texas_byrd@yahoo.com>
Sent: Jun 17, 2005 6:59 PM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing

As a middle school teacher, I see a lot of droopy pants. Unfortunately, what 
these boys don't know is that this style developed in prisons. The droppy pants 
signal to the rest of the inmates, that they are (How does one say this is a 
politically correct manner?) be on the receiving end of homosexual intercourse. 
I wonder how many of the boys who wear their pants droopy really want that 
message sent out?
 
As far as the girls, their pants are getting to that ultra-tight stage again. In 
the 70's some girls used wooden spoons to press themselves into their jeans. It 
was the big fashion in Texas for the cowgirl. I wonder if the boys will soon 
follow suit.
 
Mary Lawhorne

        
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 1856 farm clothing supplier
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> Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 10:47:44 -0500
> From: "Katie Lewis" <katie_lewis@lycos.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1856 farm clothing supplier
> 
> 
> Laura wrote: 
> 
> > I need shoes,
> > stockings, garters for the stockings, and a farm woman's corset.
> 
> For garters I suggest The Stevenson House
> their contact info can be found at this website:
> http://usregulars.web.aplus.net/vendors.html  
> They also have a website, which I can't acess at the moment:
> http://www.thestevensonhouse.com/

I'm about 99% sure that Stevenson House closed their business a year
or two ago, which could be why the web URL doesn't work.  (Bummer,
too, cuz they had some nice hats!)

~mary



"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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chindora@aol.com wrote:

> I do not understand why
> any level of society would condone and encourage this type of
> behavior and style of dress,

Because the subgroups that encourage it see themselves as rebels against 
those of us who do not.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The smart way to keep people passive and obedient is to strictly limit 
the spectrum of acceptable opinion, but allow very lively debate within 
that spectrum.  -- Noam Chomsky
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Subject: [h-cost] singer machine manuals
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A woman has contacted me about finding a manual for a Singer machine she 
bought. She claims she cannot find the model number listed anywhere, and 
thus is unable to find the right manual for it.

Can someone point me to a sewing machine list where she might post a 
picture and get help identifying her machine?



Dawn


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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> chindora@aol.com wrote:
> 
>> I do not understand why
>> any level of society would condone and encourage this type of
>> behavior and style of dress,
> 
> 
> Because the subgroups that encourage it see themselves as rebels against 
> those of us who do not.
> 

In my neighborhood there are more than a few young men who dress this 
way. The wide pants are only one of the status symbols they use in their 
social group. Shoes are another. Not too long ago I overheard a very 
enthusiast conversation regarding brand name shoes endorsed by a popular 
athlete. The boys were bragging to each other about how many pairs of 
unworn shoes they had, and who was going to be the first to get the 
latest style this spring.

The pants are an attention getter and a status symbol. "Look at me, I 
can afford to buy clothing that serves no purpose other than to let you 
know I can waste money on this."

Some people do it with jewelry or expensive cars.  For these kids, it's 
clothing.



Dawn


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> A woman has contacted me about finding a manual for a Singer machine she 
> bought. She claims she cannot find the model number listed anywhere, and 
> thus is unable to find the right manual for it.

Below is something I saved from another list I'm on.  It's from a couple 
of years ago and I've never called myself so I don't know if it's a 
current service.

-----------------
Regarding old Singer machines: call 1-800-4-SINGER, and have the serial
numbers ready.  They'll tell you the exact date and place of yur machine's
birth, and have photocopies of the user's manual that they can send you
for free.  Even if you "know everythin" about the workings of your
machine, it's still a neat thing to know.

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Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 13:59:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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Kimberly said,
> I do not understand why any level of
> society would condone and encourage this type of behavior and style of
> dress, and find it peculiar that such is permitted with men.  Women would
> never be allowed to dress like that.

     Who is allowing what?  I don't see any men in my office dressed that
way, not even in the support staff.  Any of them might do so after
work or on the weekend.

     Remember Ebonics?  It was the idea of accepting some things as part
of thier own culture.

      Teen/young adult fashion has frequently been unappreciated by the
older generation.  It may affect their chances of being hired,
depending on their desired career.  Not everyone can be a rock star.
 :-)

     My nephew, who is in his early 20s, started shaving his head, and his
parents told him he might have difficulty in the job market for that.

     -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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In this area, for some reason a shaved head and goatee seem to be "not
an issue" for men. (For the most part it is with men in their late
20's early 30's who are starting to be concerned about obvious male
pattern baldness... their SO's have convinced them that a nicely
shaved head or very very short hair is *much* better than a comb
over!)

-Irmgart


>      My nephew, who is in his early 20s, started shaving his head, and his
> parents told him he might have difficulty in the job market for that.
> 
>      -Carol

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: photos (was circular kneedles and stockings and
	ranting on repro shoes)
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> Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 08:02:49 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
> Subject: photos (was circular kneedles and stockings and ranting
> on repro	shoes)
> 
> 
<snip>
> 
> Note to self:  Have to find somewhere to put pictures, the sharing
> of pictures from Bjarne and everyone else have helped me
> immensely... and the input and sharing have really helped me refine
> my scholarship.  Sometime knowing what question to ask is as
> important as knowing where to ask it
> 

Mia,

Since you already have a Yahoo account, why don't you use yahoo
photos?  You can store an unlimited amount of photos, put them into
folders to organize, and you can designate some folders public and
others private.

Just my $0.02...

~mary


"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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I have never seen jeans rolled up on one side on either boys or girls around
here.

Where I live, the latest thing among African American boys (and the more
stylish white ones) is giant white t-shirts. T-shirts that go down past
their knees. While it DOES hide their falling-down pants, it's really ugly.
And because it's favored by criminals, who hide drugs and things under the
shirts -- a thing I heard from a policeman, not from a horrified middle-aged
person -- people who wear them are often banned from restaurants, malls,
etc. Which of course makes them more attractive to rebellious types. Sigh.

What I really can't stand is the way young girls dress. I have seen much
more of plump young women than I really care to see. They look UGLY, never
mind trashy. My husband and I play a game when we're out among crowds -- how
many people do we see who ought to be allowed to wear low-rise pants in
combination with high-rise shirts? We rarely come up with more than one, if
that. The boys in their falling down clothes just look dumb. The girls
really look horrible.

I tend to agree with Kayta that most of these fashions are meant to make
older people cringe. I just wish they didn't make EVERYONE cringe. And of
course there is always the subtle question of whether certain kinds of
dressing demeans people without their knowing it -- whether the message they
mean to send is entirely different from the one they do send. I happen to
think so, but not everyone would agree.

Last year when I was shopping I heard a young teen ask her mother over and
over again why she couldn't buy a particular shirt. Finally her mother,
exasperated, said "Because you would look like a slut." I told a friend this
story, and she said "The girl probably just said, 'Mom, if you think that's
bad, you should see what the SLUTS are wearing!'"

I'm glad I'm not a teenager.

Gail Finke

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Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 12:24:27 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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At 07:02 AM 6/20/2005, you wrote:
>I am offended that I have to see men and boys, sometimes toddlers, with 
>their pants well into the middle of their butts and their underwear showing.


As the mom of a toddler I have to say that such pants hang low sometimes 
because the toddler is between sizes. For example, my son is too big for 
2s, but in some pants not yet able to wear them, even tho they are size 3s, 
the next size up. Each maker is different in their sizing, so one companies 
size 3s fit just fine, but other size 3s from other companies hang on the 
poor boy. And I have yet to find suspenders for the few pants that aren't 
fitting right yet.

And believe me, I hate the droopy drawers thing as much as most of you do.

Kimiko
PS
Obligatory costume content: My son's Tudor overgown fit him from age 9 
months to 2.5 years, with just a letdown of the hem.



Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)

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Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 08:33:21 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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chindora@aol.com wrote:

>I am offended that I have to see men and boys, sometimes toddlers, with their pants well into the middle of their butts and their underwear showing.  I do not understand why any level of society would condone and encourage this type of behavior <snip>
>  
>
Do you think you might be taking this a wee bit seriously?

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 20 16:43:06 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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 Well, to me, underwear is supposed to be under your clothes, not on top.  Maybe it is my southern sensibilities that are cringing.  I don't know, but I feel as though I am being subjected to seeing a private part of a person, their drawers, that I would not choose to see, but it is being forced on me.
 
And in response to Kimiko's note, I am absolutely positive that the toddlers that I see wearing this style are being made to emulate older people, and not just wearing pants that are too large.  I have had 5 kids and know well the vagaries of fitting kids into store bought clothes, but these kids are dressed in a miniature 'gangsta' style, the chains around the neck, the whole nine yards.  
 
I really do like the idea of the Tudor gowns for the kids though.
 
(wink)
 
So, to move this back towards a more costume related vein, can we maybe list some styles throughout history that were openly reviled by the good folk of the time?  I really treasure the snippets of information that are shared here and always enjoy the documentation and links that are shared.
 
~Kimberley
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 08:33:21 +1200
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing


chindora@aol.com wrote: 
 
>I am offended that I have to see men and boys, sometimes toddlers, with their pants well into the middle of their butts and their underwear showing. I do not understand why any level of society would condone and encourage this type of behavior <snip> 
> > 
Do you think you might be taking this a wee bit seriously? 
 
-- Adele de Maisieres 
 
----------------------------- 
Quot homines, tot sententiae. 
-----------------------------  
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If some people believed drawers were inappropriate for women (because they 
were bifurcated), what did women wear underneath in 1856? Anything? Or was 
the shift the bottom layer and they went commando?

Thanks,
Laura

-- 
How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to 
improve the world.
-Anne Frank
www.thehungersite.com





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Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> course there is always the subtle question of whether certain kinds of
> dressing demeans people without their knowing it -- whether the message they
> mean to send is entirely different from the one they do send.

I think it's like a language.  I don't know that language, so it sounds 
bad to me.  But to the people in their peer group who speak that 
language of clothing, it must sound like real language, good language. 
They're not speaking to *me.*

How many times have we costumer-types heard someone say they'd never 
wear a costume, or would wear X but not X's essential undergarment or 
accessory?  They don't know our language either, and what sounds like 
poetry in one language may sound like a string of swear words in another.

(On the toddler digression, I stocked a whole bunch of 2" safety pins 
for my twins.  It solves the waistband issue very well.  Maybe those 
inclined could pack some in their purses and give them to boys whose 
pants are drooping!)
-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The smart way to keep people passive and obedient is to strictly limit 
the spectrum of acceptable opinion, but allow very lively debate within 
that spectrum.  -- Noam Chomsky
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I'm unsure where you got this info? Some women did go commando or did
binding ( a pain I'm sure) but I think split drawers or regular
drawers were the norm.

On 6/20/05, Laura Morlock <lbmorloc@artsmail.uwaterloo.ca> wrote:
> If some people believed drawers were inappropriate for women (because they
> were bifurcated), what did women wear underneath in 1856? Anything? Or was
> the shift the bottom layer and they went commando?
> 
> Thanks,
> Laura

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Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 14:08:50 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] singer machine manuals
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>Can someone point me to a sewing machine list where she might post a 
>picture and get help identifying her machine?

<ismacs@lyris.quiltropolis.com>


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] farm drawers
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It's my understanding that bifurcated undergarments for women first became accepted during the Regency when 'pantalettes' were frequently worn for modesty/warm beneath light cotton frocks. During the Victorian era, they became more standard wear as 'cleanliness' and 'modesty' became associated with wearing bifurcated undergarments. These were still fully open at the crotch for ease in using the bathroom. This is essential as anyone who has tried wearing a corset over closed crotch underpants and then using the bathroom can tell you! I'm sure there were some women who for a variety of reasons might have still 'gone commando' but by 1856 it was the exception rather than the rule it would have been a hundred years earlier.


Karen
Seamstrix

-- Jacqueline Johnson <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm unsure where you got this info? Some women did go commando or did
binding ( a pain I'm sure) but I think split drawers or regular
drawers were the norm.

On 6/20/05, Laura Morlock <lbmorloc@artsmail.uwaterloo.ca> wrote:
> If some people believed drawers were inappropriate for women (because they
> were bifurcated), what did women wear underneath in 1856? Anything? Or was
> the shift the bottom layer and they went commando?
> 
> Thanks,
> Laura

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] farm drawers
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Laura Morlock wrote:

>If some people believed drawers were inappropriate for women (because they 
>were bifurcated), what did women wear underneath in 1856? Anything? Or was 
>the shift the bottom layer and they went commando?
>  
>

I believe that drawers were the norm by 1856.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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My miniskirts were frowned upon in the 1960s, as were my midi skirts
in the 70s (go figure!), as were my day-glo painted tennies, my bell
bottomed jeans and later, my hip huggers that didn't show a half inch
of skin.

The rolled jeans, as tidy as they were, and the t-shirt with the
cigarette pack in the folded up sleeve were really frowned on in the
1950s. People who wore these styles were either bikers or not WASPish
enough for middle America.

My dad got into trouble for wearing tight butt corduroy pants with
wide legs in school in 1945-46. He was sent home from his public high
school in San Francisco for wearing that style with his 2 block school
sweater. He had block letters for being captain of both the baseball
and football teams and they still sent him home!

You don't really need to be too far out of the stream before people
start worrying you're a trouble-maker.

LynnD

On 6/20/05, chindora@aol.com <chindora@aol.com> wrote:
> SNIP>
> (wink)
> 
> So, to move this back towards a more costume related vein, can we maybe list some styles throughout history that were openly reviled by the good folk of the time?  I really treasure the snippets of information that are shared here and always enjoy the documentation and links that are shared.
> 
> ~Kimberley
>

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	<8296995c0506201641147ba638@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 10:14:16 +1000
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<snip>
> > So, to move this back towards a more costume related vein, can we maybe
list some styles throughout history that were openly reviled by the good
folk of the time?  I really treasure the snippets of information that are
shared here and always enjoy the documentation and links that are shared.
> >
> > ~Kimberley

I think this happens to a certain extent whenever styles change, the new
fashions generally worry the older generation. I think the big one was
probably the Regency style gowns as they were such a huge break with the
previous styles, so light and flimsy, lacking in undergarments (you could
see their _legs_!) And you can always find some moralist who will complain
about how impractical/immodest/immoral a new (or old) fashion is. Actually I
think there may have been a similar reaction to 1920s fashions with so much
skin on display.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 07:20:30 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: "Dying in the heat", was Re: [h-cost] 1856 farm clothing
  supplier
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A friend of mine did a "dress experiment" at Sutter's Fort and found that 
lined long sleeves were much more comfortable in the heat (Sacramento, CA, 
often has many days in the summer over 100 F [~39 C]) than unlined long 
sleeves.  Reducing the area of skin that is directly exposed to the sun, I 
find, reduces the amount of direct body heating that occurs, so that when I 
move out of the sun into shade while wearing mid-19th century or 
Elizabethan clothing, I cool off much more quickly than someone in shorts 
and tee-shirt.  Most of my reenactment occurs in the warmer seasons of 
California, so I'm very good at dealing with the heat.
"Dying in the heat" can mean many things.  Are the women wearing bonnets 
while working in the sun to protect their heads? Are they wearing enough 
petticoats to (2 to 3) in the right fabrics (linen [preferable] or cotton) 
to give them some "air" around their legs?  Are they drinking enough water 
(not sodas or iced tea, just water) to keep hydrated?  Or do they just 
object to sweating heavily?  I've done quite a bit of heavy work in full 
1846 outfit here in Sacramento, and, yes, I sweat (no dainty "glow" for me 
<g>) a lot, but it's no more than I would in modern clothing. I wear a 
corset, a corded petticoat over my shift, then two more petticoats, then a 
chemisette, and the dress with a full pinner apron.  It's topped off with a 
sunbonnet when I am outside.  The heaviest and hottest work is in the 
kitchen, which, while indoors, gets pretty hot (I love to use the old 
phrase, "If you can't take the heat, get out of the kitchen.").  I just 
drink lots of water, make certain I eat moderately, and get away from the 
open hearth to cool down periodically.  And accept the fact that I will 
sweat a lot.
Joan

At 09:40 AM 6/20/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Thanks, everybody, for all your help! Another question - some of the work
>dresses are short sleeved, about the length of a t-shirt. I was surprised by
>this - is it correct? I know the women who work there complain of dying in
>the heat, and so perhaps the took a short cut to coolness?
>
>Thanks again,
>Laura
>
>
>  I belong to the members-only (restricted) PlainandModestDress group at
>  yahoo, which was begun by a plain-dressing Quaker lady, but is populated
>with
>  plain dressers of many religions and persuasions.  Historic Mennonite
>garments
>  have been discussed there several times, but the linen question has not
>come up
>  before.  I will be glad to post it and see if anyone knows the  answer.
>
>  Also, must agree with Ron Carnegie in his comments on Amish & Mennonite
>  suppliers.  Even though well-made, many of the products are 100% polyester
>--as
>  in, not even blends.  Gohn Brothers and Lehmans are both still  producing
>  according to members of the group, as they are often mentioned.   However,
>Gohn
>  reportedly stays rather backed up.  The other sources  mentioned for
>footwear and
>  accessories for living history would more than  likely be your better
>  resources for authentic, historically-made  attire.  The mindset of modern
>  plain-dressing groups is not  geared toward history --it interests them as
>a part of
>  their continual search  for simplicity, and some of them who find modern
>  undergarments abhorrently  uncomfortable are even exploring wearing things
>like
>  sensible stays --but  historical accuracy is not their main interest.
>
>  If anyone is interested in learning more about Mennonite & Amish and  other
>  plain-dressing groups, you could start by searching thru these 2 online
>lists
>  of links here:
>
>  _http://www.nonviolence.org/quaker/plain/_
>  (http://www.nonviolence.org/quaker/plain/)  (http://www.nonviolence.org/)
>
>  _http://stanosheck.com/Modesty.html_ (http://stanosheck.com/Modesty.html)
>
>  Hope this helps,
>
>  Best regards,
>  Susannah
>
>--
>How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to
>improve the world.
>-Anne Frank
>www.thehungersite.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: circular kneedles and stockings and ranting on repro
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000 (yes 000) needles   You can get them mail order, or  through the web through a store that is near Charlotte, NC  jklneedles.com They have a bricks and mortar store in Concord NC that's is open on saturday, and a mailorder/internet store that takes a bit of time for stuff to get to you, but I like to support what I think of as "local Worthy stores"  They have what seems to me to be every needle in current production.  Other stores must have them too, I

t might be less of a problem when I get down the the ankle, but it will be  awhile.  I now have about 1" of stocking knitted.  I'm not even to the knee area yet.  

Note to self:  Have to find somewhere to put pictures, the sharing of pictures from Bjarne and everyone else have helped me immensely... and the input and sharing have really helped me refine my scholarship.  Sometime knowing what question to ask is as important as knowing where to ask it

Stockings and foot wear are always a challenge for me, both historic and modern  I'm diabetic (must foot wounds) very tender footed, and have a bunion. Oh and very large calves, even when I wasn't as large as I am now. I try to avoid seams (I've always turned my socks inside out, the seam on the outside doesn't rub so much.)  I HAVE to wear stocking or I get blisters, and that bunion!!!, try to find repro or passable repro shoes in wide.  

Custom made take forever and cost a mint, and I never seem to see used repro shoes.  Weel, Enough whining for a Monday



		
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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Singer manual for a Model 367?
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Hmmm - I have the same kind of problem as that mentioned by "Dawn" dawn@reddawn.net. 
 
Several helpful Listers have referred me to Websites where they intimated that I ought to be able to download a manual for our recently-acquired Singer Model 367 - only to find that those particular websites don't list the Model 367 at all..
There cannot be any doubt about the Singer Model number - it is actually cast as part of the plastic casing in raised lettering. 
[Might this be a case of a product Model  being re-numbered to be sold in another Country? I have come-across this with a couple of the Nikon cameras I have owned - which had different Numbers for the same model depending on whether they were intended for the European Market or the N. American one.]
Anyway, that's by-the-by. The Singer 367 machine was donated to our Group as a "loaner sewing machine" for those new Companions who wanted to make their own garb but didn't have access to any other sewing machine - so we'd like the Singer 367 to go out on loan to our "needy" Companions with a copy of the original manual for guidance.
 
If any Listers can help our group by downloading a copy of the Singer 367 Manual to us, our Wardrobe Mistress will very much appreciate it*.
[ * I know this is "begging", and I hate to inpose on Listers' often-demonstrated willingness to help others less fortunate; - but - if our Group had any form of financial sponsorship, we'd buy a copy of the relevant Manual - however, we fund the operations of our Companjie out of our own private pockets - and most of us are either at school so not wage-earning; retired; or what you Americans call" blue-collar" workers. There just ain't no more spare cash in the Companie Treasury at the moment, after having this Singer Model and a similarly-donated Singer 15K serviced and overhauled as "loaner-machines".]




Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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Well, I guess I should have been more specific.  I can understand the whole teen thing, I have 5 kids, and each has had their own "thing", however, I am not just seeing this style on teens, but even on toddlers, as young as two and three.  It just makes me shake my head to see these little munchkins running around trying to hold their pants up while they go about the regular business of being a kid.  I know that it must seem as though we are picking on one particular style, or group of people who have adopted this, but for me it is an interesting discussion because I also think back to other fashions from bygone eras and think of the fashion practices of those times that were also soundly belittled and scorned by the "majority".  I can think of several, off the top, not only clothing but cosmetic and such as well. 
 
:)
~Kimberley 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 13:59:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing



Kimberly said,
> I do not understand why any level of
> society would condone and encourage this type of behavior and style of
> dress, and find it peculiar that such is permitted with men.  Women would
> never be allowed to dress like that.

     Who is allowing what?  I don't see any men in my office dressed that
way, not even in the support staff.  Any of them might do so after
work or on the weekend.

     Remember Ebonics?  It was the idea of accepting some things as part
of thier own culture.

      Teen/young adult fashion has frequently been unappreciated by the
older generation.  It may affect their chances of being hired,
depending on their desired career.  Not everyone can be a rock star.
 :-)

     My nephew, who is in his early 20s, started shaving his head, and his
parents told him he might have difficulty in the job market for that.

     -Carol
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: singer machine manuals
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Where is the most likely place to find the serial #, I'd love all that
info about my machine.

Onaree

On 6/20/05, lisa <lisleong@k12.hi.us> wrote:
> > A woman has contacted me about finding a manual for a Singer machine she 
> > bought. She claims she cannot find the model number listed anywhere, and 
> > thus is unable to find the right manual for it.
> 
> Below is something I saved from another list I'm on.  It's from a couple 
> of years ago and I've never called myself so I don't know if it's a 
> current service.
> 
> -----------------
> Regarding old Singer machines: call 1-800-4-SINGER, and have the serial
> numbers ready.  They'll tell you the exact date and place of yur machine's
> birth, and have photocopies of the user's manual that they can send you
> for free.  Even if you "know everythin" about the workings of your
> machine, it's still a neat thing to know.
> 
> _______________________________________________
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-- 
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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/

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At 06:34 AM 6/19/2005, you wrote:
>Can anyone tell me, is there any type of curved needle you can buy that 
>isn't a complete semicircle?  They drive me nuts, the way you can't get 
>the point into the fabric without the other end being on the fabric, which 
>makes them so unwieldy.  I always think a third of a circle would be so 
>much easier to handle - do they exist?
>
>Jean


Hi Jean,

I went google-dredging yesterday, and could not find a one that wasn't a 
semi-circle. Not from upholstery companies, quilt shops, leather suppliers, 
or any other hit on google. Sorry. I would like to find such a thing as 
well for similar reasons.

Kimiko

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
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Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>I'm glad I'm not a teenager.
>  
>


Amen!

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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>>I do not understand why
>>any level of society would condone and encourage this type of
>>behavior and style of dress,
>
>Because the subgroups that encourage it see themselves as rebels against 
>those of us who do not.

Yeah.  They do it to upset us staid older folks.  And, as witness the 
response to this thread, they're doing a pretty good job of it.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
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From: Jacqueline Johnson <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] farm drawers
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Not just the corset but trying to go potty in a hoop and pulling down
a pair of drawers is a nightmare. But yes pantlets seem to be a
Regency-post regenct thing. Pre regency commando seems to be the rule.
I've read about older women especially (not to be disgusting here) who
were leftovers of the French Revolution era of the era who had worn
panniers who wore nothing under there and peed where they stood.

On 6/20/05, penhalion@juno.com <penhalion@juno.com> wrote:
> 
> It's my understanding that bifurcated undergarments for women first became accepted during the Regency when 'pantalettes' were frequently worn for modesty/warm beneath light cotton frocks. During the Victorian era, they became more standard wear as 'cleanliness' and 'modesty' became associated with wearing bifurcated undergarments. These were still fully open at the crotch for ease in using the bathroom. This is essential as anyone who has tried wearing a corset over closed crotch underpants and then using the bathroom can tell you! I'm sure there were some women who for a variety of reasons might have still 'gone commando' but by 1856 it was the exception rather than the rule it would have been a hundred years earlier.
> 
> 
> Karen
> Seamstrix

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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] singer machine manuals
Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 21:14:45 -0400
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She could post here if she wanted- I know there are several of us who are on
the antique singer lists who are also on this list.  Give me the serial
number and I can give you the year- and Singer does not know all and is
frequently wrong with the model they tell you, although the year is often
correct.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 12:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] singer machine manuals

A woman has contacted me about finding a manual for a Singer machine she 
bought. She claims she cannot find the model number listed anywhere, and 
thus is unable to find the right manual for it.

Can someone point me to a sewing machine list where she might post a 
picture and get help identifying her machine?



Dawn


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Doesn't upset me, it just gives me a good laugh at how silly they look. Then
again, I don't consider myself to be staid. :)

Talia

>Yeah.  They do it to upset us staid older folks.  And, as witness the
>response to this thread, they're doing a pretty good job of it.


>        CarolynKayta Barrows
>dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian


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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>> Because the subgroups that encourage it see themselves as rebels 
>> against those of us who do not.
> 
> 
> Yeah.  They do it to upset us staid older folks. 

Or the White Folks.  Or the Rich Folks.  Or Whomever-isn't-them-Folks. 
Age is only part of it.

cv
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The serial number is on a plate in front of the pillar on the right side of
the machine on all the older black cast iron machines.  If you have a
machine that is not black with decals, it may be in another place. Do you
know what model you have?  I know mostly about models 221 and lower
numbered.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Onaree Berard
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 3:47 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Re: singer machine manuals

Where is the most likely place to find the serial #, I'd love all that
info about my machine.

Onaree


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] farm drawers
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quite a few interesting period letters, commentary, & journal entries  in 
_Corsets & Crinolines_ (Norah Waugh) regarding early to mid 19c drawers  & the 
wearing, or lack thereof.
 
best, susannah
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thank you for writing this, joan, it was so adequately put that i will  leave 
off saying anything other than, "yep, me too."
 
susannah, who also performed an 18-month long living history "experiential  
archaeology" experiment in authentic 1790 - 1840  clothing
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>here in Sacramento, and, yes, I sweat (no dainty "glow" for me <g>) a lot,

I tend to "glow" buckets.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>I think this happens to a certain extent whenever styles change, the new
>fashions generally worry the older generation. I think the big one was
>probably the Regency style gowns as they were such a huge break with the
>previous styles, so light and flimsy, lacking in undergarments (you could
>see their _legs_!) And you can always find some moralist who will complain
>about how impractical/immodest/immoral a new (or old) fashion is. Actually I
>think there may have been a similar reaction to 1920s fashions with so much
>skin on display.

So much skin and no corset!

I almost got sent home for wearing a "granny" dress, when I was in High 
School.  They said the red calico thing looked too much like a 
nightgown.  They didn't complain when I hemmed the same dress up to knee 
length and wore it.  And no less than the Girls' Vice Principal told me 
that my knee-high boots were worrying her because only "that kind of girl" 
wore them - even tho mine were lime green suede.  Then there's my aunt who 
complained that I wore colors that were too drab (browns and greys).  I 
made a Hawaiian print dress in red and yellow, and suddenly my colors were 
too bright for her.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: "Dying in the heat", was Re: [h-cost] 1856 farm clothing supplier
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 02:54:30 +0000
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LOL!!!  What a catchy phrase..."I'm not sweating!  I'm a glow bucket!"

LOL!!!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> >here in Sacramento, and, yes, I sweat (no dainty "glow" for me ) a lot, 
> 
> I tend to "glow" buckets. 
> 
> 
> CarolynKayta Barrows 
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian 
> www.FunStuft.com 
> 
> //// \\\ 
> ////-@@\\\ 
> (((( 7 ))) 
> ((( <> )))) 
> ) (((((( 
> /----\ /---\)) 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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In a message dated 6/20/2005 6:18:35 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
cvirtue+dated+1134868435.b9977f@thibault.org writes:

Or the  White Folks.  Or the Rich Folks.  Or Whomever-isn't-them-Folks.  
Age is only part of it.


Like I said earlier, my beef is not that I am not the same colour (I have  
seen people of all colours dressing this way), nor that I ain't one of them,  
because I do consider myself part of the human race.  I don't think it  is that 
my age is different, or that I am an uptight, staid matron.   I just do not 
want  to look at a complete  stranger's underwear, whether a thong sticking up 
at the back of a pair of  jeans, or a guys drawers and half of his butt 
sticking out of the back of his  pants.  I fail to see what fashion statement it is 
making, when as we have  seen here there are so many different theories as to 
why it even developed  and is perpetuated today.  I realize that we all have 
different opinions  and outlooks on this, and so I guess that the only way to 
deal with it is to  look the other way, but personally I find it just gross that 
a guy has to walk  around grabbing at the groin area of his pants just to 
keep them from dropping  to his knees.  
 
I pointed out in an earlier post that my teenage daughter (I have three  
daughters, two sons) is now wearing these shirts that look like multiple shirts  
layered one over the other.  To me, that is an example of "faking it", and  I 
can tie that to historical fashion statements like  the fake sleeves and  fake 
puffs particularly of the Tudor/Elizabethan/Renaissance in general.   We have 
discussed some recent huffs that people got in over clothes, but what  are 
some older, more historic examples that we can tie in with this?  I  have heard 
rumours that the sideless surcoat (If that is even the correct name  for it, 
sorry not my period) was considered shameless and was given the nickname  "The 
Gates of Hell."  I don't know if it is true or not, but would be  interested in 
hearing more about this, and other items of clothing that really  raised the 
ire of the Church and more of the (ahem) respectable citizens of the  
different eras that we try to learn more about.
 
~Kimberley
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 20 23:20:34 2005
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 Chindora@aol.com wrote:

> I have heard rumours that the sideless surcoat (If that is even the
> correct name for it, sorry not my period) was considered shameless and
> was given the nickname "The Gates of Hell."  I don't know if it is
> true or not, but would be interested in hearing more about this, and
> other items of clothing that really raised the ire of the Church and
> more of the (ahem) respectable citizens of the different eras that we
> try to learn more about.

There are plenty examples of such types of clothing, but the oft-mentioned
sideless surcote is probably not the best one to point to. I have heard
that "gates of Hell" (or "devil's windows") quote all over the place and
not yet seen a primary reference for it. And though costume books also
commonly repeat that it was considered shamelessly revealing, I haven't
seen anything in the literature to support that either; in fact, in its
deepest-cut versions, it was exclusively the dress of queens and royal
family, and clearly not seen as suggestive of anything but high rank. It
does appear in one well-known image of two courtesans as imagined by St.
Jerome in a hallucination (in the Tres Riches Heures), but the other
courtesan is wearing a different upper-class dress, so the surcote is more
likely meant to suggest "high fashion" or "luxury" and not anything
specific about the surcote itself as courtesan-wear. Someday I will
probably have to do a paper rehabilitating the surcote's reputation, poor
thing...

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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> In my neighborhood there are more than a few young men who dress this
> way. The wide pants are only one of the status symbols they use in their
> social group. Shoes are another. Not too long ago I overheard a very
> enthusiast conversation regarding brand name shoes endorsed by a popular
> athlete. The boys were bragging to each other about how many pairs of
> unworn shoes they had, and who was going to be the first to get the
> latest style this spring.
>
> The pants are an attention getter and a status symbol. "Look at me, I
> can afford to buy clothing that serves no purpose other than to let you
> know I can waste money on this."
>
> Some people do it with jewelry or expensive cars.  For these kids, it's
> clothing.
>
>
>
> Dawn

Besides, the same attention grabbing has been seen throughout the ages.
Extra large sleeves, slash and puff, wigs, beauty marks, velvet, hoops,
baggy pants, its all bad new to someone. (and thank goodness, or much of our
documentation in the form of sumptuary laws and Church documents would not
exist)

Sheridan :-)


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs
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>I don't know if it is true or not, but would be  interested in
>hearing more about this, and other items of clothing that really  raised the
>ire of the Church and more of the (ahem) respectable citizens of the
>different eras that we try to learn more about.

Incroyables, late 1700s - deliberate outrageousness.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs
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At 08:07 PM 6/20/2005, you wrote:
>and other items of clothing that really  raised the
>ire of the Church and more of the (ahem) respectable citizens of the
>different eras that we try to learn more about.
>
>~Kimberley


Well, in Scotland, the Kirk preachers would chastise the women for wearing 
their arasads (arasaids) in kirk/church. Apparently, the women were using 
the arasads to fall asleep under. This was sometime in the 17th c., IIRC, 
although I would have to relook up where this was written, it's been a 
number of years.

Kimiko


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: "J.E. Marshall" <jemarshall@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Curved needles
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You could try surgical supply places.  There are semi-circular and then 
there are "J" needles.  They look like a capital J.

Jennifer

At 01:27 PM 6/20/05 -0700, you wrote:

>At 06:34 AM 6/19/2005, you wrote:
>>Can anyone tell me, is there any type of curved needle you can buy that 
>>isn't a complete semicircle?  They drive me nuts, the way you can't get 
>>the point into the fabric without the other end being on the fabric, 
>>which makes them so unwieldy.  I always think a third of a circle would 
>>be so much easier to handle - do they exist?
>>
>>Jean
>
>
>Hi Jean,
>
>I went google-dredging yesterday, and could not find a one that wasn't a 
>semi-circle. Not from upholstery companies, quilt shops, leather 
>suppliers, or any other hit on google. Sorry. I would like to find such a 
>thing as well for similar reasons.
>
>Kimiko
>
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what would you attempt to do if you knew you could not fail?  Anon.


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Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 00:32:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 ** Have you tried looking in a tack and western wear
shop for those Boy's suspenders? Or a dance supplies
store.
 had the same problem with my son, long skinny
legs,tiny waist= suspenders
Melody

--- Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:

> At 07:02 AM 6/20/2005, you wrote:
> 
> > As the mom of a toddler I have to say that such
> pants hang low sometimes 
> because the toddler is between sizes. 
> 
> >And I have yet to find suspenders for the
> few pants that aren't  fitting right yet.
> 
> And believe me, I hate the droopy drawers thing as
> much as most of you do.
> 
> Kimiko
> PS
> Obligatory costume content: My son's Tudor overgown
> fit him from age 9 
> months to 2.5 years, with just a letdown of the hem.
> 
>


		
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Yes, definitely try a surgical supply. I got my stash from a veterinary 
friend.

Sg

>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Online photo albums (WAS: Re: circular kneedles...)
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At 11:02 AM 6/20/2005, you wrote:
>Note to self:  Have to find somewhere to put pictures, the sharing of 
>pictures from Bjarne and everyone else have helped me immensely... and the 
>input and sharing have really helped me refine my scholarship.  Sometime 
>knowing what question to ask is as important as knowing where to ask it

I use http://www.flickr.com . There are lots of other free places too, 
where you can create online "photo albums" -- I believe I've yeard "Yahoo 
photos" mentioned, for instance. If you search online for "free photo 
album" sites I expect you'll find several.

Flickr makes it easy to refer people to individual photos, which is why I 
like it -- I use it as a place to "park" the photos I use in my 
Paternosters blog. (The folks at Flickr also have an amusing sense of 
humor!) Some of the others I think do a better job of creating an on-screen 
"album" where visitors can see a lot of your photos in thumbnail size and 
click on the ones they want to see close up. Recommendations, anyone?

Here's an example of a photo reference from Flickr: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33802198@N00/19621462/
(This is discussed in 
http://paternosters.blogspot.com/2005/06/skully-bits.html if you want to 
know what it is, BTW.) (ObCostume: it's an accessory!! <g>)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0  Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
0  <http://paternoster-row.org>  <http://paternosters.blogspot.com>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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>I'd be content (delighted really) if both sexes went back to the way chinos 
>used to fit the guys back in '64--snug in the butt, straight down from 
>there. Now, THAT was sexy.

Ehehe... I think you hit the nail on the... butt. Every time I see a guy 
with baggy pants I think "My, this is so unflattering! Looks like he has no 
behind!"

What, they haven't learned yet that it's not just men who look at the other 
sex's body?


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>Remember Ebonics?  It was the idea of accepting some things as part
>of thier own culture.

???

I'm sorry, you've lost me. Could you explain this further?


>My nephew, who is in his early 20s, started shaving his head, and his
>parents told him he might have difficulty in the job market for that.

Perhaps. Men in my family can go bald around the age of 16, so for about a 
century they have been shaving their head in response. One relative is a 
lawyer is a very conservative and prestigous international firm, and they 
hired him sans hair.

Of course, he looks the gentleman, wearing suits, etc. But his lack of hair 
has hardly closed any doors. This is not the first firm of this sort he has 
been employed at, and I doubt that it will be the last.


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If this is to be believed, the concept of "hoodlums" (with hoods!) is not a 
new one <grin>:
  http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk_news/story/0,3604,1500808,00.html

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0  Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
0  <http://paternoster-row.org>  <http://paternosters.blogspot.com>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the droopy pants thing
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>>Remember Ebonics?  It was the idea of accepting some things as part
>>of thier own culture.
>
> ???
>
> I'm sorry, you've lost me. Could you explain this further?

     Ebonics was the study of language in America, specifically of African
American who were lower economic level.  I'm not sure if it was
considered a dialect - I'm not up on linguistics.  There are plenty
of resources on the web (including "translators" for humor).

     My point in mentioning it is that a lot of study has been done on
something that is "imporper" English.  It's become something with its
own rules.

     Back to clothing, as many people have said on the list it's also
improper, and yet being studied and discussed.

> Perhaps. Men in my family can go bald around the age of 16, so for about a
> century they have been shaving their head in response. One relative is a
> lawyer is a very conservative and prestigous international firm, and they
> hired him sans hair.

     Thought so - with my nephew it's a case of the older generation
claiming that anything fashionable will hinder him.  Even if the
fashion is not something unattractive, restrictive, or weird in some
way.  :-)

     -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] singer machine manuals
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lisa wrote:

> Regarding old Singer machines: call 1-800-4-SINGER, 


Thanks everyone. I was able to help her figure out what model she had 
(It was discontinued so she was having real trouble confirming its 
existance) and get her in touch with Singer.



Dawn


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Hi Everyone,

You keep me sane. Thanks for all your help with the resources on farm dress 
- it's been very helpful. But there are two things I'm becoming desperate 
for.

1 - I can't find a farm/work corset. Any corset I find from the 1850s is for 
fashion or light work. And those were all well beyond my budget!

2 - I have spent countless hours searching libraries and the internet for an 
example of what to wear for Sunday dress. Here are my questions: a) what did 
farm women wear? This museum is recreating a successful Mennonite farm 
family. They tended to wear the modern styles, just a few years behid the 
curb and a little more simply cut with fewer embellishments b) would they 
have worn the dress the wore to church that morning for the rest of the day?

Please help!! Thanks,
Laura

-- 
How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to 
improve the world.
-Anne Frank
www.thehungersite.com





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Subject: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric
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Does anyone on the list know of a source for flame retardant children's  
sleepwear fabric?  I haven't had any luck at either JoAnn or Hancock, and I  know 
both used to carry it in some basic solid colors.  I refuse to use  regular 
cotton flannel, and I'm not thrilled with the ready-made sleepwear out  
there--it is all printed with licensed characters!
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 12:11:14 -0700
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sunday best
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I don't have a historic answer. But I have always believed that people
remain the same throughout history. I know that I wore my best clothes
to church and then took them off once I got home to do other things.
My mother did and my grandmother did. I realize that's a small
sampling of people, but I think that would be true almost at any time
in history - unless you're hosting someone for Sunday dinner. Even my
highly religious great-aunts, who cooked an dcleaned up a storm on
Saturdays and never lit the stove on Sundays would change their
clothes after church. I don't remember what religion they were, sorry;
I just know they weren't part of our church.

LynnD

On 6/21/05, Laura Morlock <lbmorloc@artsmail.uwaterloo.ca> wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> You keep me sane. Thanks for all your help with the resources on farm dress
> - it's been very helpful. But there are two things I'm becoming desperate
> for.
> 
> 1 - I can't find a farm/work corset. Any corset I find from the 1850s is for
> fashion or light work. And those were all well beyond my budget!
> 
> 2 - I have spent countless hours searching libraries and the internet for an
> example of what to wear for Sunday dress. Here are my questions: a) what did
> farm women wear? This museum is recreating a successful Mennonite farm
> family. They tended to wear the modern styles, just a few years behid the
> curb and a little more simply cut with fewer embellishments b) would they
> have worn the dress the wore to church that morning for the rest of the day?
> 
> Please help!! Thanks,
> Laura
> 
> --
> How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to
> improve the world.
> -Anne Frank
> www.thehungersite.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------
> This mail sent through www.mywaterloo.ca
> _______________________________________________
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AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> I refuse to use regular cotton flannel

Why?  That might help folks steer you to sources for what you want.

(My own choices have been based on the theory that I'd rather have a 
thin cotton item burn quickly, rather than plastic fabric melt into 
my/kids skin.  What do they treat cotton with, anyway, to make it 
flame-retardant?)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Every time I see someone driving an SUV, they are engaging in a behavior 
which reinforces my negative opinion of them, and which I then apply to 
all people who drive SUVs.
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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric
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At 12:18 PM 6/21/2005, you wrote:
>(My own choices have been based on the theory that I'd rather have a thin 
>cotton item burn quickly, rather than plastic fabric melt into my/kids 
>skin.  What do they treat cotton with, anyway, to make it flame-retardant?)
>
>--
>Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent


I have several ready-made cotton children's pjs, and they are not flame 
retardant (and are so marked). However, if I stuck him into polyester 
clothing during our hot summers, he would have heat issues from the heat 
trapped inside the garment. But I am like you, I would rather it burn off 
quickly than melt onto skin, retardant or no. I also would prefer such 
natural fiber garments for winter wear, but I cannot find lightweight wool 
winter pjs, so polyester will do ok to keep him warm during our semi-cold 
months.

Kimiko


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At 12:32 AM 6/21/2005, you wrote:
>  ** Have you tried looking in a tack and western wear
>shop for those Boy's suspenders? Or a dance supplies
>store.
>  had the same problem with my son, long skinny
>legs,tiny waist= suspenders
>Melody


Hi Melody,

I had tried western wear, but couldn't find them small enough locally, 
maybe I will try them online. And we no longer have a dance supply store 
that carries boy's wear... only frilly girly stuff. Sad, really. But again, 
maybe the Internet has something.

Thank you.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric
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Kimiko Small wrote:
> I have several ready-made cotton children's pjs, and they are not flame 
> retardant (and are so marked). 

Yeah, if they're snug, snug like long underwear, they don't have to be 
treated to be legally sold as such in the US.

It was somone on this list, several years ago, who had information on 
what was done to cotton to make it flame retardant, and it was nasty. 
But that's old information and the methods may have changed.

cv
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Kimiko Small wrote:

> I had tried western wear, but couldn't find them small enough locally, 
> maybe I will try them online. 

Why not make them?  I'm sure I've seen the fittings in catalogs.

cv
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid suspenders/"braces" RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
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At 02:13 PM 6/21/2005, you wrote:
>Kimiko Small wrote:
>
>>I had tried western wear, but couldn't find them small enough locally, 
>>maybe I will try them online.
>
>Why not make them?  I'm sure I've seen the fittings in catalogs.
>
>cv


I've seen the fittings from Greenberg and Hammer, and they are adult sizing 
only (and the button kind). Do you know of any catalogs that carry toddler 
sizes?

But I have found the suspender store that carries toddler sized suspenders! 
http://www.suspenderstore.com/kidssuspenders.html . Now if only they had 
them with trains on the elastic... my son loves trains.

Thanks all for the suggestions.

Kimiko


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the droopy pants thing
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aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:

>>>Remember Ebonics?  It was the idea of accepting some things as part
>>>of thier own culture.
>>>      
>>>
>>???
>>
>>I'm sorry, you've lost me. Could you explain this further?
>>    
>>
>
>     Ebonics was the study of language in America, specifically of African
>American who were lower economic level.  I'm not sure if it was
>considered a dialect - I'm not up on linguistics.  There are plenty
>of resources on the web (including "translators" for humor).
>
>     My point in mentioning it is that a lot of study has been done on
>something that is "imporper" English.  It's become something with its
>own rules.
>
>     Back to clothing, as many people have said on the list it's also
>improper, and yet being studied and discussed.
>

I seem to remember there was a lot of wailing and gnashing of teeth a 
few years ago when a California school district decided to "recognise" 
Ebonics in the classroom. Some people decided that this meant that 
schools were treating Ebonics as a seperate language, or making "bad" 
English equal to "good", etc, etc, ad nauseam. Never mind that the 
purpose of recognising it was to provide better instruction in standard 
English to children who used Ebonics at home by recognising that Ebonics 
has a consistent grammar and teaching the differences between Eboics and 
standard English grammar explicitly. 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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In a message dated 6/21/2005 3:19:18 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cvirtue+dated+1134933239.11e414@thibault.org writes:

(My own  choices have been based on the theory that I'd rather have a 
thin cotton  item burn quickly, rather than plastic fabric melt into 
my/kids  skin.  What do they treat cotton with, anyway, to make it  
flame-retardant?)



There was a fairly successful treatment to make cotton flame-retardant, but  
it must not have been commercially successful.  There are home recipes for  
doing it yourself with borax and boric acid, but these were water soluble and so 
 had to be re-applied after every washing. Cotton flannel, because of the 
nap, is  really incendiary, while the inherently flame-retardant fibers do NOT 
melt and  drip.  And besides, my granddaughters live in Florida, so cotton 
flannel  isn't really very practical for them.  
 
But, to answer my own question, I forgot that the flame retardant flannel  
that Handcock sells is called "Grand Flannel."  Strangely, the website does  not 
mention its flame retardant properties.  But I have found other  extremely 
annoying features of the search engine on the website.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric
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In a message dated 6/21/2005 4:55:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kimiko@kimiko1.com writes:

I have  several ready-made cotton children's pjs, and they are not flame 
retardant  (and are so marked). 


yes, I've noticed in reading labels on ready-made sleepwear that evidently  
the legislation was changed to allow knit cotton fabrics for children's  
sleepwear, as long as they are "snug fitting."  Don't know if that was a  result of 
pressure from manufacturers, or consumers, or something else--I've  been out 
of touch with all those issues for about 10 years now.
 
Ann Wass
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AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> the inherently flame-retardant fibers do NOT 
> melt and  drip.

What do they do, then?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 18:37:19 -0500
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I know that at my JoAnns there are a few flame-retardant knits in the
nursery section - mostly prints I think, although I don't think they are
licensed characters.


*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 1:36 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric

Does anyone on the list know of a source for flame retardant children's
sleepwear fabric?  I haven't had any luck at either JoAnn or Hancock, and I
know both used to carry it in some basic solid colors.  I refuse to use
regular cotton flannel, and I'm not thrilled with the ready-made sleepwear
out there--it is all printed with licensed characters!
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleep wear fabric
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I  watching cable TV last night and saw a piece on the technology of
NASCAR (yes, it was a slow night on TV) where they discussed the
evolution of the fireproof suit that racers wear these days (or so they
tell me-I'm not actually into NASCAR). In the 60's the cotton suits were
dipped in the borax/boric acid mixture which made them fire retardant,
but also caused many racers to have uncomfortable skin rashes. Because of
this, many racers in the 60's refused to wear the flame retardant suits
until one very popular driver named 'Fireball'  died from burns sustained
in a crash. 

I mention this only to warn folks that the borax/boric acid mixture has
it's drawbacks as a functional fire retardant........



Karen
Seamstrix
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In a message dated 6/21/2005 6:23:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cvirtue+dated+1134944280.82d189@thibault.org writes:

What do  they do, then?




They self-extinguish-- Char and curl a little, and then go out.
 
Ann Wass
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And, there is a difference between FIREPROOF and Flame Retardant--the  former 
being rather more important for race car drivers, I imagine.  Nomex  and 
Kevlar are fireproof--the former being used for firefighters' suits, and  aircraft 
carrier flight crews, for example.  The children's sleepwear  fabrics I'm 
speaking of, are, on the other hand, flame retardant, meaning they  are slow to 
burn.
 
Almost all fibers will burn.  (Kevlar, Nomex, and glass being  exceptions.)  
The question is, how fast?  All fibers sold in the US  today have to meet 
basic flammability standards.  Read about the Cocoanut  Grove nightclub fire, or 
the 1950s "torch" sweaters, made out of brushed  rayon--they were evidently so 
flammable that they burst into flame if cigarette  ash fell on them--if you 
want some background on the rationale for federal  legislation.  I believe there 
were also some incidents in the late 1940s of  first communion dresses made 
of cotton batiste that caught on fire from open  candles in churches.
 
Children's sleepwear had to meet more rigid standards.  As I said, I  don't 
know when the "tight fitting knits" exceptions were allowed.  
 
I think I will be able to find the "Grand Flannel" at Hancock's in basic  
colors, which is just what I'm looking for.
 
Ann Wass
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The whole research about costume has me befuddled. I am developing a Welsh persona that was born in 1066 right as William the Conqueror came over and is about my age now. So it would be around 1109.
 
Would the Welsh have adopted the clothing of the conquering Normans? Such as the boat-like sleeves?
 
Would this person wear fashions from the past years or so due to politicla leaning or poverty compaed to the conquerors?
 
What would be the difference between the clothing this person would wear for everydy and for festive occasions?
 
How would the clothing be decorated? The Welsh supposedly loved bright clothing, but what does bright mean? And deocrations would be....
 
Anything else I really need to know? If you could lead me to any great sources to look at or delve into, I would appreciate it. Many sources I find only have a paragraph. I am not sufficiently able to interpret from a paragraph.
 
Any help would be appreciated.
 
Thanks,
 
Mary Lawhorne

		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleep wear fabric
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Okay, I think we can bring this discussion to a close.  The standards  on 
children's sleepwear in the US were amended in 1996, in response to consumers  
who wanted 100% cotton sleepwear, according the Consumer Product Safety  
Commission.  That is when the "skin tight" regulations went into  effect.
 
For those of you who favor natural fibers, please be aware that the fabric  
construction, as well as the fiber content, affect flammability.  Thus,  cotton 
flannel, with the nap, is more flammable than a smooth surface  cotton.  
Also, those of you who have children (or grandchildren, as I do),  please remember 
that the ignition can be very sudden, no matter how careful you  are--a 
candle, a stove burner, a spark from a fireplace--so please don't think  this whole 
thing is senseless.
 
Okay, down off my soapbox.  I'll be buying some Grand Flannel  soon--have to 
make my granddaughter a nightgown for Christmas!
 
Ann Wass
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Friday on hall duty, a boy was walking down the stairs and his pants fell to his ankles. I got a view of much more than I really wanted to see. He was quite amused by his friends seeing him in his underwear and having a teacher see him. He made us all into passive voyeurs (sp?). Yuck. This style is so draining of what few brian cells teeagers have. They have to worry about their pants falling down to the deteriment of all other thoughts.
 
As far as wanting to seem poor, didn't the punk rockers originally start off protesting being have nots, and then when the punk look became all the rage, people actually spent good money on it? It amazes me that so many 'haves' spend their money trying to look like 'have nots'.
 
Also, the new style for girls with the low-rise pants and high-rise shirts or overly plump girls makes me think 'corpulent." However, this style doesn't really look great on anyone except the almost anorexic.
 
However, with all of this I am humbled by a highschool picture of me in a purple crop top and grey dress pants with my hair in a bun and blue irredescent eye shadow. I was hot. (NOT)
 
Mary Lawhorne

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AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> They self-extinguish-- Char and curl a little, and then go out.

I got really curious, so I cut the self-fabric ties off of my daughter's 
new 100% poly "flame retardant" jammies and burn tested them.

Waving the match past it, less than a second: melt
Waving the match, about a second: melt and drip molten stuff
Holding the match to it, about 2 seconds, and removing match: 
enthusiastic flame with flaming bits breaking off of fabric.  Plus 
melted drips.

Moral: If you're concerned about it and have flame around your house, 
burn test everything, making no assumptions.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue
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Back in the early 60's I raced sports cars and we were required to wear flame retardent coveralls.  I don't remember the exact proportions, but it was just borax (no boric acid) that we used.  It didn't cause me to itch, but it was so strong it destroyed the fabric after just a few treatments.  Ruined my favorite coveralls too.  If you really want to treat a garment, I would recommend checking with your dry cleaner and see if they can do it for you without destroying the fabric.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1134956534.57633a@thibault.org> wrote:

From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1134956534.57633a@thibault.org>
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 21:46:48 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric: burn test

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> They self-extinguish-- Char and curl a little, and then go out.

I got really curious, so I cut the self-fabric ties off of my daughter's 
new 100% poly "flame retardant" jammies and burn tested them.

Waving the match past it, less than a second: melt
Waving the match, about a second: melt and drip molten stuff
Holding the match to it, about 2 seconds, and removing match: 
enthusiastic flame with flaming bits breaking off of fabric.  Plus 
melted drips.

Moral: If you're concerned about it and have flame around your house, 
burn test everything, making no assumptions.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue
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They treat it with chemicals.  I used to work with fire-retardant 
fabrics, and actually developed a pretty severe sensitivity to anything 
in that line.  Our tent fabrics (cotton) were treated with, IIRC, borax, 
so now, unfortunately, I have problems with it wherever it shows 
up--clothing, furniture, tents, sleeping bags, cosmetics....
Ick.
Dunno what they use with or in some of the non-natural fabrics that are 
fire retardant or flame resistant, but I have a similar reaction with them.
I'd much, much rather wear non-treated clothing.  or sleepwear....
--sue

Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> 
>> I refuse to use regular cotton flannel
> 
> 
> Why?  That might help folks steer you to sources for what you want.
> 
> (My own choices have been based on the theory that I'd rather have a 
> thin cotton item burn quickly, rather than plastic fabric melt into 
> my/kids skin.  What do they treat cotton with, anyway, to make it 
> flame-retardant?)
> 

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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  lil boy suspenders .....
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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hmmm ...too bad that didn't work out.
 One last idea, try, perhaps, a tux/formal rental
store.
Tiny ring bearers are often outfitted with suspenders.
 Melody
--- Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:

> At 12:32 AM 6/21/2005, you wrote:
> >  ** Have you tried looking in a tack and western
> wear
> >shop for those Boy's suspenders? Or a dance
> supplies
> >store.
> >  had the same problem with my son, long skinny
> >legs,tiny waist= suspenders
> >Melody
> 
> 
> Hi Melody,
> 
> I had tried western wear, but couldn't find them
> small enough locally, 
> maybe I will try them online. And we no longer have
> a dance supply store 
> that carries boy's wear... only frilly girly stuff.
> Sad, really. But again, 
> maybe the Internet has something.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
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This is a place that sells only children's suspenders:

http://www.suspenders-online.com/cgi-bin/store/agora.cgi

Kim


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Subject: [h-cost] The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs
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On 6/21/05, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
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> Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 23:07:55 EDT
> From: Chindora@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <128.5f3546a5.2fe8de8b@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> 
> 
> In a message dated 6/20/2005 6:18:35 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> cvirtue+dated+1134868435.b9977f@thibault.org writes:
> 
> Or the  White Folks.  Or the Rich Folks.  Or Whomever-isn't-them-Folks.
> Age is only part of it.
> 
> 
> Like I said earlier, my beef is not that I am not the same colour (I have
> seen people of all colours dressing this way), nor that I ain't one of them,
> because I do consider myself part of the human race.  I don't think it  is that
> my age is different, or that I am an uptight, staid matron.   I just do not
> want  to look at a complete  stranger's underwear, whether a thong sticking up
> at the back of a pair of  jeans, or a guys drawers and half of his butt
> sticking out of the back of his  pants.  I fail to see what fashion statement it is
> making, when as we have  seen here there are so many different theories as to
> why it even developed  and is perpetuated today.  I realize that we all have
> different opinions  and outlooks on this, and so I guess that the only way to
> deal with it is to  look the other way, but personally I find it just gross that
> a guy has to walk  around grabbing at the groin area of his pants just to
> keep them from dropping  to his knees.

I do seem to remember that the 17th century offered a lot of portraits
with people in their "underwear" (chemises/shirts) floating off
shoulders and coming open - I'm sure to them it was at least as
shocking as seeing boxers poking out from under jeans (not
particularly new - I was seeing this fashion at raves in the mid 1990s
- on men as well as women. Yes, women in boxers!). Chanel vented
mightily about the exposure of women's knees in the 1960s with
miniskirts. I think the Regency folks got all bent out of shape over
tight men's pants and women's flimsy dresses (though I suspect that
the latter may be part of costume mythology). In other words - nothing
new here.
> 
> I pointed out in an earlier post that my teenage daughter (I have three
> daughters, two sons) is now wearing these shirts that look like multiple shirts
> layered one over the other.  To me, that is an example of "faking it", and  I
> can tie that to historical fashion statements like  the fake sleeves and  fake
> puffs particularly of the Tudor/Elizabethan/Renaissance in general.   We have
> discussed some recent huffs that people got in over clothes, but what  are
> some older, more historic examples that we can tie in with this?  I  have heard
> rumours that the sideless surcoat (If that is even the correct name  for it,
> sorry not my period) was considered shameless and was given the nickname  "The
> Gates of Hell."  I don't know if it is true or not, but would be  interested in
> hearing more about this, and other items of clothing that really  raised the
> ire of the Church and more of the (ahem) respectable citizens of the
> different eras that we try to learn more about.

Why do you have such a need to tie fashion statements of today to
statements of the past? Sometimes I suspect most teenagers don't think
about their choices too far beyond "everyone else is doing it" and "it
will make my parents mad - goodie!" I know I didn't ;)
> 
> ~Kimberley

Allison T.

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 Allison T. said:

Why do you have such a need to tie fashion statements of today to
statements of the past?

It is not as if it is some deep seated need on my part, I just find it amusing, and interesting.   Parhaps it is also a way to show that some of the most basic trends in humanity remain the same, regardless of how much the world evolves.  I find that it helps to keep in touch with the notion that these are not just costumes, but clothes.
 
:)
~Kimberley
 
-----Original Message-----
From: A. Thurman <athurman@gmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 08:49:12 -0400
Subject: [h-cost] The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs


On 6/21/05, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
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> Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 23:07:55 EDT
> From: Chindora@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <128.5f3546a5.2fe8de8b@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> 
> 
> In a message dated 6/20/2005 6:18:35 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> cvirtue+dated+1134868435.b9977f@thibault.org writes:
> 
> Or the  White Folks.  Or the Rich Folks.  Or Whomever-isn't-them-Folks.
> Age is only part of it.
> 
> 
> Like I said earlier, my beef is not that I am not the same colour (I have
> seen people of all colours dressing this way), nor that I ain't one of them,
> because I do consider myself part of the human race.  I don't think it  is 
that
> my age is different, or that I am an uptight, staid matron.   I just do not
> want  to look at a complete  stranger's underwear, whether a thong sticking up
> at the back of a pair of  jeans, or a guys drawers and half of his butt
> sticking out of the back of his  pants.  I fail to see what fashion statement 
it is
> making, when as we have  seen here there are so many different theories as to
> why it even developed  and is perpetuated today.  I realize that we all have
> different opinions  and outlooks on this, and so I guess that the only way to
> deal with it is to  look the other way, but personally I find it just gross 
that
> a guy has to walk  around grabbing at the groin area of his pants just to
> keep them from dropping  to his knees.

I do seem to remember that the 17th century offered a lot of portraits
with people in their "underwear" (chemises/shirts) floating off
shoulders and coming open - I'm sure to them it was at least as
shocking as seeing boxers poking out from under jeans (not
particularly new - I was seeing this fashion at raves in the mid 1990s
- on men as well as women. Yes, women in boxers!). Chanel vented
mightily about the exposure of women's knees in the 1960s with
miniskirts. I think the Regency folks got all bent out of shape over
tight men's pants and women's flimsy dresses (though I suspect that
the latter may be part of costume mythology). In other words - nothing
new here.
> 
> I pointed out in an earlier post that my teenage daughter (I have three
> daughters, two sons) is now wearing these shirts that look like multiple 
shirts
> layered one over the other.  To me, that is an example of "faking it", and  I
> can tie that to historical fashion statements like  the fake sleeves and  fake
> puffs particularly of the Tudor/Elizabethan/Renaissance in general.   We have
> discussed some recent huffs that people got in over clothes, but what  are
> some older, more historic examples that we can tie in with this?  I  have 
heard
> rumours that the sideless surcoat (If that is even the correct name  for it,
> sorry not my period) was considered shameless and was given the nickname  "The
> Gates of Hell."  I don't know if it is true or not, but would be  interested 
in
> hearing more about this, and other items of clothing that really  raised the
> ire of the Church and more of the (ahem) respectable citizens of the
> different eras that we try to learn more about.

Why do you have such a need to tie fashion statements of today to
statements of the past? Sometimes I suspect most teenagers don't think
about their choices too far beyond "everyone else is doing it" and "it
will make my parents mad - goodie!" I know I didn't ;)
> 
> ~Kimberley

Allison T.

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Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> athurman@gmail.com 22/06/2005 13:49 >>>
wrote:
>I do seem to remember that the 17th century offered a lot of portraits
>with people in their "underwear" (chemises/shirts) floating off
>shoulders and coming open - I'm sure to them it was at least as
>shocking as seeing boxers poking out from under jeans .

Not just off the shoulder; men in the mid-17th century used to leave their *lower* doublet buttons undone so that the shirt puffed out (not the upper buttons as we would do today), and the skimpy doublets worn with petticoat breeches showed even more shirt at the waist. It was considered "sexy" because the shirt was underwear, even though it was a shapeless garment.



______________________________________________________________________


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On Wed, 22 Jun 2005 chindora@aol.com wrote:

>  Allison T. said:
> 
> Why do you have such a need to tie fashion statements of today to
> statements of the past?
> 
> It is not as if it is some deep seated need on my part, I just find it
> amusing, and interesting.  Parhaps it is also a way to show that some
> of the most basic trends in humanity remain the same, regardless of
> how much the world evolves.  I find that it helps to keep in touch
> with the notion that these are not just costumes, but clothes.

Gee. I read it as simply as an attempt to bring the thread back on-topic
for this list.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs
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A. Thurman writes, in a message sent 08:49 AM 6/22/2005 -0400:
>Why do you have such a need to tie fashion statements of today to
>statements of the past? Sometimes I suspect most teenagers don't think
>about their choices too far beyond "everyone else is doing it" and "it
>will make my parents mad - goodie!" I know I didn't ;)

It's not so much tying teenage fashion statements to the past, I think, so 
much as putting these in a larger fashion picture; giving them their proper 
perspective.  As in, teenagers annoying their elders is nothing new.

BTW, I hear that Brighan Young railed against fly-front trousers, as 
opposed to fall-front ones, as "fornication pants" (when "pants" was the 
word for underpants and "trousers" the word for outerwear).

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Dianne and Greg" <goofy1@suscom.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 08:31:01 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing


> My miniskirts were frowned upon in the 1960s, as were my midi skirts
> in the 70s (go figure!), as were my day-glo painted tennies, my bell
> bottomed jeans and later, my hip huggers that didn't show a half inch
> of skin.
>
> The rolled jeans, as tidy as they were, and the t-shirt with the
> cigarette pack in the folded up sleeve were really frowned on in the
> 1950s. People who wore these styles were either bikers or not WASPish
> enough for middle America.
>
> My dad got into trouble for wearing tight butt corduroy pants with
> wide legs in school in 1945-46.

My dad wanted nothing more when he was a teen than to have a black leather
jacket. His mom wouldn't allow it. A brown leather jacket, in the exact same
style, was fine, but he was not allowed to have a black one.

Dianne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 08:28:54 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: <chindora@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing


> Well, I guess I should have been more specific.  I can understand the
whole teen thing, I have 5 kids, and each has had their own "thing",
however, I am not just seeing this style on teens, but even on toddlers, as
young as two and three.  It just makes me shake my head to see these little
munchkins running around trying to hold their pants up while they go about
the regular business of being a kid.

Heh. I have two kids, ages seven and ten, who have absolutely no butts. (And
how I wish I had their problem..but I digress..) The seven year old weighs
40 pounds if that. Trying to find pants that will stay up on either of them
is a joke, as even the slim sizes are too big, so I guess, instead of
cringing when Steven walks around with his pants halfway down his butt, I
should be grateful that he is so stylish! (Not.)

Dianne

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1700 fair
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Hi,
Friday i go to the 1700 fair again. This time i have started a new waistcoat 
embroidery wich i will bring to the fair.
I also can tell you that my blue suit was back from a cleaning and it was 
very well done.
I am sewing a longer lace to my shirt so that it will be better suited to be 
used with the blue suit.
My waistcoat projekt is this:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/herreveste..htm
Now i hope and pray for no rain this weekend.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 22 14:42:58 2005
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Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 11:41:43 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Sale on light-weight linen-cotton blend
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I just ordered 20 yards of handkerchief-weight 50-50 linen-cotton blend 
from Denverfabrics.com for only $1.98 per yard (45" wide).  Since my order 
has been accepted, I thought I'd share the wealth <g>.  Their email 
notification has some nice stuff this time.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net

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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>
> BTW, I hear that Brighan Young railed against fly-front trousers, as 
> opposed to fall-front ones, as "fornication pants" (when "pants" was 
> the word for underpants and "trousers" the word for outerwear).

what is the differernce between "fly front" and "fall front" in pants?
(can you tell i focus on women's outfits?)

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs
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J Schueller wrote:

> Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>
>>
>> BTW, I hear that Brighan Young railed against fly-front trousers, as 
>> opposed to fall-front ones, as "fornication pants" (when "pants" was 
>> the word for underpants and "trousers" the word for outerwear).
>
>
> what is the differernce between "fly front" and "fall front" in pants?
> (can you tell i focus on women's outfits?)



Fly front:  like most modern men's pants and many modern women's pants 
in construction, but with buttons in place of a zipper.
Fall front:  has a centre opening, but no fly.  The gap in the front 
centre is covered by a squarish flap that buttons on both sides of the 
front waistband.

Adele d'M
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References: <s2b97882.080@cluster1-gwise3-server.derby.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 10:07:33 +1000
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Kate wrote:

> Not just off the shoulder; men in the mid-17th century used to leave their 
> *lower* doublet buttons undone so that the shirt puffed out (not the upper 
> buttons as we would do today), and the skimpy doublets worn with petticoat 
> breeches showed even more shirt at the waist. It was considered "sexy" 
> because the shirt was underwear, even though it was a shapeless garment.

I have to remind my 15yo to undo the lower buttons fairly much each time 
he's wearing his 17th century clothes, as he wears a cote and breeches. My 
husband finds it easier. He wears a suit. His breeches are a couple of 
inches wider than his waist and are attached to his doublet by ribbons (his 
next suit breeches will likewise be attached by hooks). When he gets hot 
(not an if living in Australia!), if he opens his top buttons, the whole 
suit tries to make its way groundwards. It's not a problem if he opens the 
bottom buttons only.

Glenda. 

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Subject: [h-cost] slightly OT, but someone may know
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There are people here who spend much more time than I do looking at works 
of art: maybe someone will recognize this piece.

A patron at my library is trying to identify the original of a wood carving 
(fairly deep relief panel) he has a replica of. I said I'd try.

It's a man, looking around a door (and out of the frame). He holds a set of 
sheep shears, which is why this man's father told him the piece was called 
"The Sheep Shearer." His hair is chopped off square at chin-length and he 
wears that ubiquitous medieval brimmed "cap." He's got an angular face and 
looks rather northern European to me.

Very little to go on, but does anyone have any ideas?

Jo Anne

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Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 20:07:40 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@net.indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion in 1109 or thereabouts
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At 6:26 PM -0700 6/21/05, Mary Lawhorne wrote:
>The whole research about costume has me befuddled. I am developing a 
>Welsh persona that was born in 1066 right as William the Conqueror 
>came over and is about my age now. So it would be around 1109.
>
>Would the Welsh have adopted the clothing of the conquering Normans? 
>Such as the boat-like sleeves?
>
>Would this person wear fashions from the past years or so due to 
>politicla leaning or poverty compaed to the conquerors?
>
>What would be the difference between the clothing this person would 
>wear for everydy and for festive occasions?
>
>How would the clothing be decorated? The Welsh supposedly loved 
>bright clothing, but what does bright mean? And deocrations would 
>be....
>
>Anything else I really need to know? If you could lead me to any 
>great sources to look at or delve into, I would appreciate it. Many 
>sources I find only have a paragraph. I am not sufficiently able to 
>interpret from a paragraph.

Eventually my web site will include a collection of source materials 
on medieval Welsh costume that you might find helpful (it's a matter 
of doing the html conversion), but I have several FAQs on the topic 
that might give you a starting place -- or at least agree with some 
of your suspicions. 
<http://heatherrosejones.com/welshfaqs/clothing.html>

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
<http://heatherrosejones.com>
*****
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Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 20:07:40 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@net.indra.com
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At 6:26 PM -0700 6/21/05, Mary Lawhorne wrote:
>The whole research about costume has me befuddled. I am developing a 
>Welsh persona that was born in 1066 right as William the Conqueror 
>came over and is about my age now. So it would be around 1109.
>
>Would the Welsh have adopted the clothing of the conquering Normans? 
>Such as the boat-like sleeves?
>
>Would this person wear fashions from the past years or so due to 
>politicla leaning or poverty compaed to the conquerors?
>
>What would be the difference between the clothing this person would 
>wear for everydy and for festive occasions?
>
>How would the clothing be decorated? The Welsh supposedly loved 
>bright clothing, but what does bright mean? And deocrations would 
>be....
>
>Anything else I really need to know? If you could lead me to any 
>great sources to look at or delve into, I would appreciate it. Many 
>sources I find only have a paragraph. I am not sufficiently able to 
>interpret from a paragraph.

Eventually my web site will include a collection of source materials 
on medieval Welsh costume that you might find helpful (it's a matter 
of doing the html conversion), but I have several FAQs on the topic 
that might give you a starting place -- or at least agree with some 
of your suspicions. 
<http://heatherrosejones.com/welshfaqs/clothing.html>

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
<http://heatherrosejones.com>
*****
_______________________________________________
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I don't have a clue, but someone on another list might.  Do you mind if 
I forward this?
--sue

Jo Anne Fatherly wrote:
> There are people here who spend much more time than I do looking at 
> works of art: maybe someone will recognize this piece.
> 
> A patron at my library is trying to identify the original of a wood 
> carving (fairly deep relief panel) he has a replica of. I said I'd try.
> 
> It's a man, looking around a door (and out of the frame). He holds a set 
> of sheep shears, which is why this man's father told him the piece was 
> called "The Sheep Shearer." His hair is chopped off square at 
> chin-length and he wears that ubiquitous medieval brimmed "cap." He's 
> got an angular face and looks rather northern European to me.
> 
> Very little to go on, but does anyone have any ideas?
>

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>Very little to go on, but does anyone have any ideas?

Indeed - very little to go on without an image.  Is one possible?


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] grow old dreams
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Hi, sorry that i drop the droppy pants thing, i passed long ago.
I was wondering about you all out there, what are your dreams when you 
(hopefully grow sain and helthy old)
I have dreamed about making a video, yes i did say video ...... music video 
with Jean Phillipe Rammeaus harpsicord piece called "Les barricades 
Musterieause" (Mystical barricades) wich i have the feeling is about a 
labyrinth, big dangerous labyrinth in an old baroque garden.
2 ladies and 2 gentlemen have lost eachother in the treaturessed labyrinth 
and desperately search eachother.
This i would (in my dream) make to a music video.
They should be dressed in the high fashion of 1680 with tall fontanges and 
elaborately beautifull justeocorpses and mantuas with long trains, fans and 
lots of powdered wigs.
Well well we all have our dreams, i dont know if i ever will be able to make 
this, would love to make the costumes for it, and then perhaps sell it to 
you? :-)
Dont know who would bother to see it.
Perhaps i should embroider it in stead in a big wall 
hanging..................
What is your dreams like??????
Sorry i broke your droopy pants thing.
I for  one thing dont mind, i use to go to a nude beach every summer, 
without any threads on, love it................
Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 10:16:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] grow old dreams
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     At Costume Con, they sometimes have a video contest - instead of
presenting live on a stage, the presentation is filmed in whatever
setting they want to do.

     I don't know if this is a regular feature of costume Con now, but it
would be the perfect venue to share your video.  I hope you make it -
sounds lovely!

     -Carol


> I have dreamed about making a video, yes i did say video ...... music
> video
> with Jean Phillipe Rammeaus harpsicord piece called "Les barricades
> Musterieause" (Mystical barricades) wich i have the feeling is about a
> labyrinth, big dangerous labyrinth in an old baroque garden.
> 2 ladies and 2 gentlemen have lost eachother in the treaturessed labyrinth
> and desperately search eachother.
> This i would (in my dream) make to a music video.
> They should be dressed in the high fashion of 1680 with tall fontanges and
> elaborately beautifull justeocorpses and mantuas with long trains, fans
> and
> lots of powdered wigs.
> Well well we all have our dreams, i dont know if i ever will be able to
> make
> this, would love to make the costumes for it, and then perhaps sell it to
> you? :-)
> Dont know who would bother to see it.

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    At Costume Con, they sometimes have a video contest - instead of
presenting live on a stage, the presentation is filmed in whatever
setting they want to do.

     I don't know if this is a regular feature of costume Con now, but it
would be the perfect venue to share your video.  I hope you make it -
sounds lovely!

     -Carol


Hi Carol,
I often read about costume con on this list, but i seldom read it, because 
it was in USA, and i didnt consider USA as a place i would go to, because of 
the distance.
However prices has decreased for a long period, and the Euro is strong to 
the Dollar.
What is Costume Con, a convention of a kind or a competition?
Sorry that i have ben a nerd this topic wise, did´nt
 bother because USA is so far away..........
Anyway, going away tomorrow for the 2nd. 1700 fair in Denmark, nothing 
special, most people dresses in peassants costumes, but it is the only time, 
that something is happening in the small country of Denmark,
Bring my big travelling trunk with me, because in this i can have all the 
boxes with embroidery thread, costumes, embroidery frame and wigs, weighs a 
ton, but...............

Bjarne
Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews"

(snip)
> I have dreamed about making a video, yes i did say video ...... music 
> video with Jean Phillipe Rammeaus harpsicord piece called "Les barricades 
> Musterieause" (Mystical barricades) wich i have the feeling is about a 
> labyrinth, big dangerous labyrinth in an old baroque garden.
> 2 ladies and 2 gentlemen have lost eachother in the treaturessed labyrinth 
> and desperately search eachother.
(snip)

Bjarne, I'd love to see this.  I love Rameau's music, especially this piece. 
It does sound like a labyrinth.  And, while I'm posting, thank you so much 
for posting your costume pictures.  Your work is an inspiration to me.

Melusine
http://home.earthlink.net/~moreplentyn/melusinescostumes/ 

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Subject: [h-cost] black silk embroidery floss
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hey all,

I started a blackwork Eliz coif a couple of years ago.  I've moved a 
couple times since then and can't find my floss to complete the 
project.  My local store no longer carries the brand.  And of course, I 
can't remember the brand.  It was wrapped, similarly to DMC, was French 
(I think).  It wasn't the big twisted hanks like, Kreinik, but was a 
smaller amount.  It wasn't in a plastic bag like YLI.

It's a long shot, but if anyone knows, it's you folks.  :D
Thanks!

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Reunite Pangaea!

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
people.
- Giordano Bruno

Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
- Gunn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sale on light-weight linen-cotton blend
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 2:41 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Sale on light-weight linen-cotton blend


> I just ordered 20 yards of handkerchief-weight 50-50 linen-cotton blend
> from Denverfabrics.com for only $1.98 per yard (45" wide).  Since my order
> has been accepted, I thought I'd share the wealth <g>.  Their email
> notification has some nice stuff this time.

Thanks! Just ordered 10 yards of myself! (Need garb for Pennsic!)

Dianne


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs
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J Schueller writes, in a message sent 05:30 PM 6/22/2005 -0400:
>>BTW, I hear that Brighan Young railed against fly-front trousers, as 
>>opposed to fall-front ones, as "fornication pants" (when "pants" was the 
>>word for underpants and "trousers" the word for outerwear).
>
>what is the differernce between "fly front" and "fall front" in pants?
>(can you tell i focus on women's outfits?)

Fly front are like the ones Levi's have.  Fall front ones have two parallel 
"fly"s, like on sailor's trousers.  (There's probably another name for 
these.)  Anyway, 'access' isn't as convenient with fall front trousers, and 
Brigham Young was worried about temptation, loose morals, and teenagers in 
general.  Fall front trousers were going out of fashion and fly front ones 
were the newest thing.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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For the last nearly 20 years, my *main* criteria for a handbag ( Or purse, as you in the US call it. We call a womans' wallet a purse, unless it actually is a wallet like a man usually carries. ) was that it had to be big enough for a reasonably thick paperback book! 
I have just recently graduated to a satchel or soft briefcase as I was running out of room for all the other stuff I need to carry. ( See list below.... )

Joannah ( who is currently freezing at 8deg.C / 46.4deg F - which is COLD for Brisbanites - dear God, it even snowed in Guyra, NSW today!)

<snip>
Well, what would an Elizabethan man have kept in his pockets? Let's face
it he didn't have even half of what we schlep around on a regular basis.
He might have had the apparently requisite handkerchief, maybe a small
pouch of coins.....maybe not if he wasn't planning on buying
anything....A comb? A rosary or other devotional item? There would not be
a wad of credit cards, car keys, cell phone, checkbook, make-up bag,
house keys, wallet full of paper money, novel to read at lunch,
hairbrush..... and that's just some of the stuff I carry in my purse!
Before we decide if there is enough room for a pocket, we need to have
some idea of what that pocket might have been intended to contain.

Karen
Seamstrix
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Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 11:08:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] black silk embroidery floss
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> hey all,
>
> I started a blackwork Eliz coif a couple of years ago.  I've moved a
> couple times since then and can't find my floss to complete the
> project.  My local store no longer carries the brand.  And of course, I
> can't remember the brand.  It was wrapped, similarly to DMC, was French
> (I think).  It wasn't the big twisted hanks like, Kreinik, but was a
> smaller amount.  It wasn't in a plastic bag like YLI.
>
> It's a long shot, but if anyone knows, it's you folks.  :D
> Thanks!
>
> Althea Turner

Did you already look at www.lacis.com?  They carry floss and stuff for
embroidery.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] black silk embroidery floss
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http://www.threadexpress.com

Has many brands of silk floss.

Good luck

-annette

> 
> From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
> Date: 2005/06/23 Thu PM 12:58:55 EDT
> To: Costume Historical <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] black silk embroidery floss
> 
> hey all,
> 
> I started a blackwork Eliz coif a couple of years ago.  I've moved a 
> couple times since then and can't find my floss to complete the 
> project.  My local store no longer carries the brand.  And of course, I 
> can't remember the brand.  It was wrapped, similarly to DMC, was French 
> (I think).  It wasn't the big twisted hanks like, Kreinik, but was a 
> smaller amount.  It wasn't in a plastic bag like YLI.
> 
> It's a long shot, but if anyone knows, it's you folks.  :D
> Thanks!
> 
> Althea Turner
> *** althea@alfalfapress.com
> *** http://www.alfalfapress.com
> 
> Reunite Pangaea!
> 
> It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
> masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
> does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
> people.
> - Giordano Bruno
> 
> Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
> - Gunn
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Fwd: [h-cost] The Droopy Pants Thing/historic huffs
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 16:18:38 -0400
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An old Navy friend of mine said the thirteen buttons (patriotic!) on 
the fall front of sailor's trousers were nicknamed "thirteen chances to 
say 'no'."

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

> An old Navy friend of mine said the thirteen buttons (patriotic!) on 
> the fall front of sailor's trousers were nicknamed "thirteen chances 
> to say 'no'."
>
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


>
>
> On Jun 22, 2005, at 6:01 PM, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>
>> J Schueller writes, in a message sent 05:30 PM 6/22/2005 -0400:
>>>> BTW, I hear that Brighan Young railed against fly-front trousers, 
>>>> as opposed to fall-front ones, as "fornication pants" (when "pants" 
>>>> was the word for underpants and "trousers" the word for outerwear).
>>>
>>> what is the differernce between "fly front" and "fall front" in 
>>> pants?
>>> (can you tell i focus on women's outfits?)
>>
>> Fly front are like the ones Levi's have.  Fall front ones have two 
>> parallel "fly"s, like on sailor's trousers.  (There's probably 
>> another name for these.)  Anyway, 'access' isn't as convenient with 
>> fall front trousers, and Brigham Young was worried about temptation, 
>> loose morals, and teenagers in general.  Fall front trousers were 
>> going out of fashion and fly front ones were the newest thing.
>>
>>        CarolynKayta Barrows
>> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>>          www.FunStuft.com
>>
>>              //// \\\
>>             ////-@@\\\
>>            ((((   7 )))
>>             (((  <> ))))
>>                )   ((((((
>>           /----\   /---\))
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
>

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> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 7:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
> 
> 
> My dad wanted nothing more when he was a teen than to have a black leather
> jacket. His mom wouldn't allow it. A brown leather jacket, in the exact same
> style, was fine, but he was not allowed to have a black one.

My father grew up in the 1950s when black leather jackets were
considered biker gear. As such, when my sister wanted a black biker
jacket in the 1980s, he was very upset until we explained that the
connotations of black leather that he grew up with were passe.
> 
> Dianne

Allison T.
> 
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Droopy Pants/Historic huff -leather jackets
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> > My dad wanted nothing more when he was a teen than to have a black leather
> > jacket. His mom wouldn't allow it. A brown leather jacket, in the exact 
> same
> > style, was fine, but he was not allowed to have a black one.
>
>My father grew up in the 1950s when black leather jackets were
>considered biker gear. As such, when my sister wanted a black biker
>jacket in the 1980s, he was very upset until we explained that the
>connotations of black leather that he grew up with were passe.

I've seen these jackets in toddler sizes.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2005 10:29:24 +1000
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sale on light-weight linen-cotton blend
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Oh dear - they're now sold out - just when I was going to get some.
Cheers, Aylwen

On Thursday, June 23, 2005, at 05:25 AM, Dianne and Greg wrote:

>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 2:41 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Sale on light-weight linen-cotton blend
>
>
>> I just ordered 20 yards of handkerchief-weight 50-50 linen-cotton 
>> blend
>> from Denverfabrics.com for only $1.98 per yard (45" wide).  Since my 
>> order
>> has been accepted, I thought I'd share the wealth <g>.  Their email
>> notification has some nice stuff this time.
>
> Thanks! Just ordered 10 yards of myself! (Need garb for Pennsic!)
>
> Dianne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 18:03:35 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sale on light-weight linen-cotton blend
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H-costume members strike again!  (Remember Amazon.com.uk and QEWU a few 
years ago?)

Joan

At 10:29 AM 6/24/2005 +1000, you wrote:
>Oh dear - they're now sold out - just when I was going to get some.
>Cheers, Aylwen
>
>On Thursday, June 23, 2005, at 05:25 AM, Dianne and Greg wrote:
>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
>>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 2:41 PM
>>Subject: [h-cost] Sale on light-weight linen-cotton blend
>>
>>
>>>I just ordered 20 yards of handkerchief-weight 50-50 linen-cotton blend
>>>from Denverfabrics.com for only $1.98 per yard (45" wide).  Since my order
>>>has been accepted, I thought I'd share the wealth <g>.  Their email
>>>notification has some nice stuff this time.
>>
>>Thanks! Just ordered 10 yards of myself! (Need garb for Pennsic!)
>>
>>Dianne
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 23 23:15:10 2005
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] grow old dreams
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I hope you get to make your music video.  If you do, please let us know so we can order it.  As for me, at 70 I am finally living my high school dream of doing make-up for a movie.  Well, it is an Indy film that a friend is making on the cheap and I made the monster costumes too, but doing special effects make-up is something I always wanted to do.  I never wanted to be an actress - I just wanted to do make-up, and later costumes.  Now I am doing both and having a wonderful time even if it is just an independent horror movie that will go straight to video/DVDs.  

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:

From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 16:07:05 +0200
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] grow old dreams

Hi, sorry that i drop the droppy pants thing, i passed long ago.
I was wondering about you all out there, what are your dreams when you 
(hopefully grow sain and helthy old)
I have dreamed about making a video, yes i did say video ...... music video 
with Jean Phillipe Rammeaus harpsicord piece called "Les barricades 
Musterieause" (Mystical barricades) wich i have the feeling is about a 
labyrinth, big dangerous labyrinth in an old baroque garden.
2 ladies and 2 gentlemen have lost eachother in the treaturessed labyrinth 
and desperately search eachother.
This i would (in my dream) make to a music video.
They should be dressed in the high fashion of 1680 with tall fontanges and 
elaborately beautifull justeocorpses and mantuas with long trains, fans and 
lots of powdered wigs.
Well well we all have our dreams, i dont know if i ever will be able to make 
this, would love to make the costumes for it, and then perhaps sell it to 
you? :-)
Dont know who would bother to see it.
Perhaps i should embroider it in stead in a big wall 
hanging..................
What is your dreams like??????
Sorry i broke your droopy pants thing.
I for  one thing dont mind, i use to go to a nude beach every summer, 
without any threads on, love it................
Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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In a message dated 6/23/2005 9:04:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
joanmj@surewest.net writes:

> H-costume members strike again!  (Remember Amazon.com.uk and QEWU a few 
> years ago?)
> 

Yeah....but check out the Italian linen twill. Nice classy bodice linings or 
corset fabric. 60 wide....
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Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2005 00:44:12 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] slightly OT, but someone may know
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Could it be a miserichord (sp)?  I seem to remember seeing one from 
northern Europe that looked like that.  If you did a search you might turn 
up something...

Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:25 PM 6/22/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>There are people here who spend much more time than I do looking at works 
>of art: maybe someone will recognize this piece.
>
>A patron at my library is trying to identify the original of a wood 
>carving (fairly deep relief panel) he has a replica of. I said I'd try.
>
>It's a man, looking around a door (and out of the frame). He holds a set 
>of sheep shears, which is why this man's father told him the piece was 
>called "The Sheep Shearer." His hair is chopped off square at chin-length 
>and he wears that ubiquitous medieval brimmed "cap." He's got an angular 
>face and looks rather northern European to me.
>
>Very little to go on, but does anyone have any ideas?
>
>Jo Anne

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Greetings everyone,

   For the longest time, I have been researching about period embroidery 
and how patterns were transferred to fabric.  Could someone tell me what 
exactly what the powder (pounce) was?  Where I could buy or how I may 
make it?  And did they use a dark colored one for light color fabric and 
possibly a light colored one for dark fabric?  I'm planning on teaching 
a period embroidery set-up class this fall to several of my students - 
and show it as a demo to public observers at Faires.
   Thanks for your assistance.

Roscelin

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From: "Dianne and Greg" <goofy1@suscom.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Droopy Pants/Historic huff -leather jackets
Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2005 08:53:06 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 7:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Droopy Pants/Historic huff -leather jackets


> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 7:41 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: The Droopy Pants Thing
> >
> >
> > My dad wanted nothing more when he was a teen than to have a black
leather
> > jacket. His mom wouldn't allow it. A brown leather jacket, in the exact
same
> > style, was fine, but he was not allowed to have a black one.
>
> My father grew up in the 1950s when black leather jackets were
> considered biker gear. As such, when my sister wanted a black biker
> jacket in the 1980s, he was very upset until we explained that the
> connotations of black leather that he grew up with were passe.

  I'm sure that was my grandma's reasoning as well, as my dad was a teen in
the late 50's.

Dianne
> >


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pounce
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Status: RO

Hi! I recall reading a reference that it was sometimes made of
cuttlebone.

This is going to sound wierd, but I suppose you could buy a cuttlebone
such as pet suppliers have for birds and grind it to a powder.

Arlys

On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 02:39:23 -0700 Rose Amberwulf <roscelin@pcez.com>
writes:
> Greetings everyone,
> 
>    For the longest time, I have been researching about period 
> embroidery 
> and how patterns were transferred to fabric.  Could someone tell me 
> what 
> exactly what the powder (pounce) was?  Where I could buy or how I 
> may 
> make it?  And did they use a dark colored one for light color fabric 
> and 
> possibly a light colored one for dark fabric?  I'm planning on 
> teaching 
> a period embroidery set-up class this fall to several of my students 
> - 
> and show it as a demo to public observers at Faires.
>    Thanks for your assistance.
> 
> Roscelin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pounce
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That does not sound weird at all, merely practical- I buy rawhide and bone
doggie chews from the pet aisle to get , well, bone and rawhide. All clean
and ready to go.
Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cynthia J Ley
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 9:49 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pounce

Hi! I recall reading a reference that it was sometimes made of
cuttlebone.

This is going to sound wierd, but I suppose you could buy a cuttlebone
such as pet suppliers have for birds and grind it to a powder.

Arlys
h-costume

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<snip>Could someone tell me what 
exactly what the powder (pounce) was?  Where I could buy or how I may 
make it?  And did they use a dark colored one for light color fabric
and 
possibly a light colored one for dark fabric?  <snip>

Roscelin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I think I have heard of cuttlebone, also ground charcoal.  You can get
both a light and a dark pounce from Skinnersisters however: 
http://www.skinnersisters.com/other/ 

Catherine


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I did an embroidery demo recently.  Today pounce seems to be mainly used by quilters and I bought a quilter's pounce w/ powder from a quilting specialty vendor.

In period they used charcoal and ground up cuttlefish bone and applied it with a rolled up piece of felt used like a stomper/tamper.  I made two pouncers - one for light, one for dark, and used wooden bowls.  I showed the cuttlefish bone but I bought white chalk at a hardware store (used for snapping chalk lines).  Much cheaper than in sewing stores and I didn't bother grinding the cuttlefish bone.

There is a nice recreationist article on embroidery that I used as my main resource.  I think it's on the V&A web site, but of course I can't find the link.  
Julie
----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> 
>    For the longest time, I have been researching about period embroidery 
> and how patterns were transferred to fabric.  Could someone tell me what 
> exactly what the powder (pounce) was?  Where I could buy or how I may 
> make it?  And did they use a dark colored one for light color fabric and 
> possibly a light colored one for dark fabric?  I'm planning on teaching 
> a period embroidery set-up class this fall to several of my students - 
> and show it as a demo to public observers at Faires.
>    Thanks for your assistance.
> 
> Roscelin

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I attended a demo several months ago where Cinnamon was used as pounce.


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One small caveat with grinding cuttlefish, or bone of any sort. Be sure
to mask yourself, as the powder can damage lungs and eyes during the
grinding process. Wouldn't want anyone to be able to do a 13th century
'blind beggar' costume TOO well, would we? 

Kate McClure
aka StitchWitch

Beads? What beads . . . ?

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----- Original Message ----- 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pounce


> Hi! I recall reading a reference that it was sometimes made of
> cuttlebone.
>
> This is going to sound wierd, but I suppose you could buy a cuttlebone
> such as pet suppliers have for birds and grind it to a powder.
>
> Arlys

This is actually quite easy to do, my husband and I were using cuttlebone
for casting pewter recently, you can scrape it into powder with minimal
effort.

Hmm, now I know what to do with all of the leftover bits...

Sheridan


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Interesting.  I like that idea better than charcoal.  What a mess!
Julie
----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> I attended a demo several months ago where Cinnamon was used as pounce.
> 

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Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2005 13:20:29 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pounce
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I've heard of cinnamon being used as pounce in modern ecclesiastical
embroideries.

Arlys

On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 12:53:49 -0400 Dawn Luckham <dluckham@sympatico.ca>
writes:
> I attended a demo several months ago where Cinnamon was used as 
> pounce.

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As said in previous replies, traditionally pounce was powdered cuttlefish for 
dark fabrics, and powdered charcoal for light (coloured) fabrics.

Royal School of Needlework still teach using cuttlefish and charcoal 
(although personally I cheat, and save the shavings from my tailors chalk sharpener).

Debs.
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Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2005 22:44:56 -0400
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] slightly OT, but someone may know
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I said:
 >> There are people here who spend much more time than I do looking at
 >> works of art: maybe someone will recognize this piece.
[snip]
 >>Very little to go on, but does anyone have any ideas?

And Sue said:
 >I don't have a clue, but someone on another list might.  Do you mind if
 > I forward this?

And then Kayta said:
 >Indeed - very little to go on without an image.  Is one possible?

So I now respond:
Sure, send it to anyone you think might have a clue. I wish I had a scan of 
it, but he was reluctant to let the piece out of his possession and I don't 
have a scanner at work.

Jo Anne

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Have a look at this great event in Tartu
http://www.tartu.ee/hansa/main.php?lang=en
- four days living in the days of the Hanseatic League.

(And I see that the places to visit include the Beer Museum!)

Best wishes,
Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.,
  - but wishing I was in Tartu).
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  Same here Sheridan.  We are planning to teach a class on pewter 
casting one day soon.  Actually I should have thought of that for this 
coming weekend.  But right now I am dealing with an aunt who is on her 
death bed and a day full of classes (Ithra type) this Sunday. 
   Anyway,  can anyone head me to the right book that I may use as 
documentation for my research on the use of cuttlebone and/or charcoal 
as pounce?

Roscelin

Shane & Sheridan wrote:

>This is actually quite easy to do, my husband and I were using cuttlebone
>for casting pewter recently, you can scrape it into powder with minimal
>effort.
>
>Hmm, now I know what to do with all of the leftover bits...
>
>Sheridan
>
>  
>


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Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2005 14:13:11 -0700
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At 11:27 AM -0700 6/24/05, Julie wrote:
>Interesting.  I like that idea better than charcoal.  What a mess!
>Julie
>----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
>  > I attended a demo several months ago where Cinnamon was used as pounce.

Just test whatever you use to make sure it won't stain the fabric if 
it gets wet. That's one advantage of charcoal.

It's always worth testing anything you plan to use for marking -- 
ancient or modern -- to make sure it will mark clearly, stay put as 
long as you need it, and be easy to remove afterwards.  Even plain 
white chalk can be a &%!@#%*$!  nuisance if you happen to pick a 
chalk with very fine particles that are hard to brush out of a fuzzy 
fabric.
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jun 25 10:29:58 2005
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tuxedo/tails pattern needed
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Sorry if this is a bit late, but here are some other patterns you might like to think about: 

http://www.agelesspatterns.com/men_2.htm
 - scroll down the page to 1860's Men's Tailcoat, Waistcoat and Trousers

http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B3648=x&TI=10013&page=7

http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B3556=x&TI=10013&page=8

http://sewing.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.longago.com%2F
 - scroll down to 1890 Evening Suit

http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M8701.htm?tab=costumes&page=6

Of the commercial patterns, my personal preference is either the first Butterick pattern, or the McCalls pattern. ( But that's just my opinion. )

Hope this helps.

Joannah

--- "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com> wrote:

From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 21:26:06 -0400
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tuxedo/tails pattern needed

Thanks for the suggestion.  I looked up Jean Hardy on the web, plus I went
to G-Street today and found that Folkwear has a frock coat, plus the prince
Charlie jacket in the kilt pattern is not too far off, so I think I may use
those.  There is also a Suitability shadbelly that is pretty close.  So,
somewhere between these three is the jacket I have in mind.... unless I find
an actual tails pattern before I get around to making it.
-Megan



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jun 25 11:12:40 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] slightly OT, but someone may know
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On Fri, 24 Jun 2005, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> Could it be a miserichord (sp)?  I seem to remember seeing one from
> northern Europe that looked like that.  If you did a search you might
> turn up something...

A misericord was my first thought too; if I saw it I might know for
sure, since there's a certain shape/structure to these designs, but
since it's a reproduction it might just have the carved part of the
design.

There are many hundreds of misericords, many not reproduced anywhere yet.
However, there's a misericord scholar named Elaine Block who has been
doing a series of books cataloging known misericords by subject matter.
Volumes so far cover France and Spain:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/2503512399
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/2503514995

Alas, the volumes for Northern Europe and Britain have not yet been
published.

These are extraordinarily expensive books, but they might be in a
university library within reach, in which case your patron might be able
to look them over. I believe each volume has indexes by theme, though
ultimately the fifth volume in the series will index all of them together.

At least your patron could look at some misericord images (in these books
or in others; they are, however, not easy to find) and tell right off
whether the carving is of the appropriate size and proportion to possibly
be from a misericord.

--Robin

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Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2005 12:13:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Edith Reardon <edithreardon@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sale on light-weight linen-cotton blend
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Darn my computer was down for a couple of days and now the fabric is all gone.  Boo! Hoo!
 
Brin Kendall

Dianne and Greg <goofy1@suscom.net> wrote:

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joan Jurancich" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 2:41 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Sale on light-weight linen-cotton blend


> I just ordered 20 yards of handkerchief-weight 50-50 linen-cotton blend
> from Denverfabrics.com for only $1.98 per yard (45" wide). Since my order
> has been accepted, I thought I'd share the wealth . Their email
> notification has some nice stuff this time.

Thanks! Just ordered 10 yards of myself! (Need garb for Pennsic!)

Dianne


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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendarob@exemail.com.au>
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Chris wrote:
> It's always worth testing anything you plan to use for marking -- 
> ancient or modern -- to make sure it will mark clearly, stay put as long 
> as you need it, and be easy to remove afterwards.  Even plain white chalk 
> can be a &%!@#%*$!  nuisance if you happen to pick a chalk with very fine 
> particles that are hard to brush out of a fuzzy fabric.
> -- 

However, I've seen many original 16th-17th century pieces in Museums (in my 
case in Bath, Nottingham and the V&A) that have the patterns drawn on with 
ink, and where a piece has been missed, there's still an ink mark 350-400 
years later! I no longer worry about the possibility of marks not coming 
off.

In related items: I handsew most of the reenactment clothing for my family. 
To make seams easier when sewing linen items I get a 5B pencil and draw my 
line on one part of the linen (the part that's going to be on the inside of 
the finished seam, where I fold over twice and hem/running stitch). I've 
never had a problem with show through and later when I've had to repair 
things, I've not seen anything left of the original pencil lines. And it 
makes sewing a straight seam SO quick! I also iron all my hems before I sew 
to reduce sewing time.

Glenda. 

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You know those 1950s or 1960s chokers made of what I believe to be 
clear, facted rock crystal beads, coated with something to make them 
iridescent?  Years ago, at a vintage clothing show, I bought a long 
1920s style necklace that someone probably put together from several of 
the chokers.  It was heavy, the person who strung it did not use strong 
enough thread and did not knot between the beads, and one time it broke 
and beads burst all over the floor.  I put the beads I could collect in 
a little bowl. Then, more recently, I inherited one of the chokers from 
my mother. I tried it on, and beads burst all over the floor.  I put the 
ones I could collect in the same bowl.

So anyway, I need someone who can string either a long necklace or a 
long necklace plus the choker (depending on how many beads are left) in 
a professional way, with knots between the beads and no empty thread 
showing between the beads as I see in amateur stringing jobs.  Is anyone 
on the list up to doing this for reasonable pay in a reasonable time frame?

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com




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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 397
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Any pictures that we could have a look at? I'd be really interested to see your Roman garb - I play with a Roman group here in Brisbane sometimes.

Joannah.

--- Aurelia Rufinia <aureliarufinia@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Aurelia Rufinia <aureliarufinia@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 20:18:54 -0700 (PDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 397

I make *all* of my Roman garb the width of the fabric,
so most of it is around 54".  Any shaping is done with
belts or draping.   The ionic chintons I make as wide
as my armspan, and use a minorly complecated belting
method to shape them.

Aurelia

-------------
*nice*  Based on this, my chiton is way to "wide" and
looks to perhaps 
be
the primary reason I'm not satisfied with it.  How
"big" should one be 
--
or what's a good rule of thumb I guess -- widest
measurement plus ?????

Baroness Aurelia Rufinia
House Iron Maiden, Barony of Carolingia, 
East Kingdom, Northshield Ex-Pat

"We're always fascinated when we find leg irons with no legs in them.  Who held the keys, sir?"

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I was watching the DVD of a concert tour called 'Scotland the Brave' and there was one young fellow who *was* wearing his kilt 'low rider' style. He wasn't wearing the Prince Charlie sort of outfit, but just 'poet' style shirt, kilt, plaid over one shoulder, long socks ( can't remember if they were plain or plaid patterned ) and brogues. And long hair. The ensemble really would have looked very nice, except for the low-slung kilt, which just made him look odd, and slightly deformed. :-) 

Just goes to show how pervasive the whole 'low rider' thing is. I have also seen the young girls who work in McDonalds and Hungry Jacks ( our version of Burger King ) wearing their work trousers low rider style.

Joannah

--- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote:

Are you telling me they are wearing kilts at "low rider" level? 
Eeuuughhhh! Thank goodness that hasn't travelled over here.  I feel 
quite ill!

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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My husband had a discussion last year with one of our much younger friends ( he was 36 and she just 21 at the time ) about her horror over the fact that natural waistlines in trousers are coming back ( albeit slowly ). She has never worn anything *but* hipster jeans/trousers and thought that the natural waistline was just not right _and_ made her her bum look big! :-) ( She is tall and slender and very nicely proportioned ) He made the point that as soon as natural waistlines became mainstream fashion again, she would be wearing them and wondering what she ever thought was so great about hipsters! She wasn't convinced, but then, she is still quite young. 

Joannah

>snip
--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

  I smile at things like low-rider jeans, which I merely don't 
like, and hope somebody shows these guys blackmail photos of themselves 
when they get to be suit-wearing middle-aged businessmen.






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Joannah Hansen wrote:

> He made the point that as soon as natural waistlines became mainstream fashion again, she would be wearing them and wondering what she ever thought was so great about hipsters! She wasn't convinced, but then, she is still quite young. 
>
>Joannah
>  
>
Hey it's not just the young! I have no hips to speak of--waist/hip 
measurement much closer to each other than the feminine "ideal", so if I 
buy regular women's pants that fit me around the waist, they are usually 
wide enough around the rear-end to look like clown pants. Plus I have a 
fairly low rise so if I don't want them hanging/bagging a foot below the 
crotch I have to pull them practically up to my chin. The low-rise pants 
and jeans (not super low rise, just moderate) have been a 
godsend--finally pants that fit right!!

Mandatory historic costume comment: one of the most fun things about 
doing costume for re-enactment is that you can experiment with, and then 
choose, a style that actually works with your body type.

- Hope
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In a message dated 6/27/2005 5:27:12 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Joannah@sluggy.net writes:

the  natural waistline was just not right 


Natural waistline? Like where men wore their trousers in the 1950s? Y'know  
above the navel....a little below the rib cage? That's the last time I remember 
 a 
natural" waistline.
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Subject: [h-cost] Small Museum Costume Program
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I have not posted before, but hoped that the list might provide me with 
some opinions regarding a program I am considering. I am an educator at 
a small American museum of local history with a considerable costume 
collection (about 2000 pieces). We have only 6 full time staff and 1 
curator, a generalist who is not well-versed in costume history. We 
occasionally use costumes in our exhibits, but have not done any 
costume-specific exhibits since our current curator and I came on board 
5 years ago. That said, I am very interested in costume, though my 
professional training is not in that area, and I would like to offer a 
program to our community/region featuring items from our collection and 
general information about costume history. My experience from this list 
and the many costumers who blog is that there are many out there who 
would love to see the material in our collection.

We had a costume historian inventory some of our collection and present 
a program some years ago, but we cannot afford to have her come again, 
so our curator and I are thinking of presenting something ourselves. I 
have in mind a general program for people interested in "old clothing" 
and close-up views of items from the collection for the more 
knowledgeable. I do not want to pass myself off as an expert, but I know 
there are reenactors and others who would be interested in seeing what 
we have and that those who know nothing would find my research 
interesting. As costumers and researchers, what would you think of such 
a program in your area? Thanks for any insight you can provide.
Anne

Anne Dealy
adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing skirts over pants
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joannah Hansen"
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing skirts over pants

<snip>

> My husband had a discussion last year with one of our much younger friends
( he was 36 and she just 21 at the time ) about her horror over the fact
that natural waistlines in trousers are coming back ( albeit slowly ).
> Joannah
>

I'm not too terribly pleased either, but from a comfort standpoint. I never
liked the natural waistline style in jeans, I always found it very
uncomfortable. (I'm 32, and grew up with the style) Looks like I'll be going
back to buying mens jeans for myself. :-)

Sheridan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Small Museum Costume Program
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Well, you know no one on a historic costuming list will vote against a 
prospective historic costuming exhibit!

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costume
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Anne wrote:

> I have not posted before, but hoped that the list might provide me 
> with some opinions regarding a program I am considering.


<snip>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: [h-cos }   pants........ what a "waist"
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Ah yes, men dressing like men, didn't Clark Gable and
Errol Flynn always look so "matty" and well groomed?
Wish guys dressed like that again,,, not cut off
shorts that were once dress pants and a holey white T
shirt and baseball cap.
 I miss 1940's even (if i wasn't even thought of yet)
 I always have a discussion about "where" a guys
waistline is with my DH, I say above the hips @ the
navel, DH says on hip bones, so I then counter with
"so then where are your hips?" It begins to sound like
"who's on first"
Then he'll pull his dress pants up to his armpits and
say "there are you happy?"
Maybe we should just eliminate the word "waist" from
mens
dialogue.
-

  
> In a message dated 6/27/2005 5:27:12 A.M. Eastern
> Standard Time,  
> Joannah@sluggy.net writes:
> 
> the  natural waistline was just not right 
> 
> 
> Natural waistline? Like where men wore their
> trousers in the 1950s? Y'know  
> above the navel....a little below the rib cage?
> That's the last time I remember 
>  a 
> natural" waistline.



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Subject: [h-cost] Roman garb - Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 397
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My chiton is 3 widths of 45" fabric.Sewn into a tube shape.
This makes it wrist length for me - before tying it on.
Then I sewed buttons on the top for the 'seam' - I then use a 'Cross-Your-Heart Bra' design to tie it to my body.
This makes the sleeves elbow-ish length and very comfortable.

I used 3 widths because that is what made a wrist to wrist tube. I can use a piece of 45" wide fabric for a basic roman outfit as I am a ladie's sz 10. 

Katheryne.

----- Original Message -----
> --- Aurelia Rufinia <aureliarufinia@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I make *all* of my Roman garb the width of the fabric,
> so most of it is around 54".  Any shaping is done with
> belts or draping.   The ionic chintons I make as wide
> as my armspan, and use a minorly complecated belting
> method to shape them.
> 
> Aurelia
> 
> -------------
> *nice*  Based on this, my chiton is way to "wide" and
> looks to perhaps be the primary reason I'm not satisfied with it.  How
> "big" should one be -- or what's a good rule of thumb I guess -- widest
> measurement plus ?????
> 
> Baroness Aurelia Rufinia

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <42BBD4CB.2040801@pcez.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pounce
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 12:53:46 -0400
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>   For the longest time, I have been researching about period embroidery 
> and how patterns were transferred to fabric.  Could someone tell me what 
> exactly what the powder (pounce) was?  Where I could buy or how I may make 
> it?

You can buy some, and there's also some info on how to use it at 
http://www.berlinembroidery.com/ . Probably many, many other places as 
well...

Basically you punch holes in your pattern, lay it over your fabric, then 
brush some powder on top of it all. It falls through the holes in your 
pattern and voilà! 
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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 10:01:43 -0700
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [h-cos } pants........ what a "waist"
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Oh for a dollar for every time I've had this discussion! And this
amongst people who have worn costumes for their entire lives or at
least 25 years.

My husband knows where his waist is because his 1860s naval uniform
fits there, but no modern clothes do; they all go under his belly.
Then again, I have had the same discussion with my two teen-age
daughters about where their waists are. It's pitiful to try to fit
anything with a hoop skirt on them because they insist that the waist
of the skirt goes down where their jean tops are. And they're angry at
me because I don't know my own anatomy! I ask, "Does it fit better
here and does it feel better here?" "Yeah." "And that's where it
belongs, right near your belly button." "But that's not where my waist
is." I've given up the semantic argument and tell them that These
Particular Clothes fit HERE not where they wear their jeans. That
sometimes ends argument for the time.
LynnD


On 6/27/05, Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Ah yes, men dressing like men, didn't Clark Gable and
> Errol Flynn always look so "matty" and well groomed?
> Wish guys dressed like that again,,, not cut off
> shorts that were once dress pants and a holey white T
> shirt and baseball cap.
>  I miss 1940's even (if i wasn't even thought of yet)
>  I always have a discussion about "where" a guys
> waistline is with my DH, I say above the hips @ the
> navel, DH says on hip bones, so I then counter with
> "so then where are your hips?" It begins to sound like
> "who's on first"
> Then he'll pull his dress pants up to his armpits and
> say "there are you happy?"
> Maybe we should just eliminate the word "waist" from
> mens
> dialogue.
> -
> 
> 
> > In a message dated 6/27/2005 5:27:12 A.M. Eastern
> > Standard Time,
> > Joannah@sluggy.net writes:
> >
> > the  natural waistline was just not right
> >
> >
> > Natural waistline? Like where men wore their
> > trousers in the 1950s? Y'know
> > above the navel....a little below the rib cage?
> > That's the last time I remember
> >  a
> > natural" waistline.
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
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YAY!!!!

Someone else with the 'short-rise' problem.
I have a long torso and a short rise (3" from natural waist to hip bone). So buying mundane clothes is a BEAR!!! 

Boy's dress shirts with longer bodies and sleeves, petite pants with short rise, ladies medium undergarments. (I know - too much info)

Suit coats big enough to fit my broad shoulders - sleeves are too long and the body is baggy. Coats that fit the body and sleeves are too narrow in the shoulders... ETC....

And I won't get started on the ladies sz 7 1/2 WW shoes... in pretty white flats for office work. I have to use boys sz 5 - 6 D!! to fit my feet. I'm learning how to make shoes so I can make ones that fit my feet perfectly. 
Did I say also - I have high arches....

Katheryne

OHC - I'm working on repairing/ renovating a 1940's full hoop wedding dress for my wedding in 2 weeks.
Talk about lace and crinoline!!!! aagghh. (smile)  I'll try to get a pic for everyone.

----- Original Message -----
From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>

SNIP
> Plus I have a fairly low rise so if I don't want them hanging/bagging a foot 
> below the crotch I have to pull them practically up to my chin. The low-rise 
> pants and jeans (not super low rise, just moderate) have been a 
> godsend--finally pants that fit right!!
> 
> Mandatory historic costume comment: one of the most fun things 
> about doing costume for re-enactment is that you can experiment with, 
> and then choose, a style that actually works with your body type.
> - Hope

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> ( he was 36 and she just 21 at the time ) about her horror over the fact 
> that natural waistlines in trousers are coming back ( albeit slowly ). She 
> has never worn anything *but* hipster jeans/trousers and thought that the 
> natural waistline was just not right _and_ made her her bum look big! :-)

Actually, I think it's the opposite. Higher waistlines make the waist look 
much slimmer, and put a nice emphasis on the butt. My only problem with them 
is that most of them are too long for me. I'm short-waisted and a lot of 
them dig into my lower ribs. The slightly higher low-rider styles are just 
right for me. Or what we used to call low-waist style 15 years ago :-) 
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Hi Anne,

     Have you contacted the Costume Society of America?  There may be
someone in your area who can help.  Membership is open to anyone, so
there is a range from museum professionals to amateur enthusiasts. 
There may be a student in your area who would like to volunteer, too.

     -Carol
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [h-cos }   pants........ what a "waist"
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>Errol Flynn always look so "matty" and well groomed?

It's the modern men who look "matty" and unkempt, not men in the 30s, who 
look "natty".


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Small Museum Costume Program
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*snip*

We had a costume historian inventory some of our collection and present 
a program some years ago, but we cannot afford to have her come again, 
so our curator and I are thinking of presenting something ourselves. I 
have in mind a general program for people interested in "old clothing" 
and close-up views of items from the collection for the more 
knowledgeable. I do not want to pass myself off as an expert, but I know

there are reenactors and others who would be interested in seeing what 
we have and that those who know nothing would find my research 
interesting. As costumers and researchers, what would you think of such 
a program in your area? Thanks for any insight you can provide.
Anne

Anne Dealy
adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com


----------------------

Where are you located? I can't speak for everyone on this list, but I
know that if I were given the chance for a good, close look at 'old
clothing', I'd be happy to donate some time in exchange for the
privilege.

Kate McClure
aka StitchWitch

Beads? What beads . . . ?

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As much as anything, simply to get some of the costumes out and mount 
them in a way that people can walk all round them and see the back and 
the inside would be great.  So many displays using costumes are so 
frustrating because you just can't peer round and see how it fits 
together at the back!  Maybe you could do some publicity locally and 
give groups an opportunity to choose a particular time period or type of 
garment, so you could get out a manageable number of items at a time for 
group sessions?

Jean


Anne <adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com> wrote
>I have not posted before, but hoped that the list might provide me with 
>some opinions regarding a program I am considering. I am an educator at 
>a small American museum of local history with a considerable costume 
>collection (about 2000 pieces). We have only 6 full time staff and 1 
>curator, a generalist who is not well-versed in costume history. We 
>occasionally use costumes in our exhibits, but have not done any 
>costume-specific exhibits since our current curator and I came on board 
>5 years ago. That said, I am very interested in costume, though my 
>professional training is not in that area, and I would like to offer a 
>program to our community/region featuring items from our collection and 
>general information about costume history. My experience from this list 
>many costumers who blog is that there are many out there who would love 
>to see the material in our collection.
>
>We had a costume historian inventory some of our collection and present 
>a program some years ago, but we cannot afford to have her come again, 
>so our curator and I are thinking of presenting something ourselves. I 
>have in mind a general program for people interested in "old clothing" 
>and close-up views of items from the collection for the more 
>knowledgeable. I do not want to pass myself off as an expert, but I 
>know there are reenactors and others who would be interested in seeing 
>what we have and that those who know nothing would find my research 
>interesting. As costumers and researchers, what would you think of such 
>a program in your area? Thanks for any insight you can provide.
>Anne
>
>Anne Dealy
>adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing skirts over pants
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In message <42BFF5FC.8040300@uvm.edu>, Hope Greenberg 
<hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> writes
>Joannah Hansen wrote:
>
>> He made the point that as soon as natural waistlines became 
>>mainstream fashion again, she would be wearing them and wondering what 
>>she ever thought was so great about hipsters! She wasn't convinced, 
>>but then, she is still quite young.
>>Joannah
>>
>Hey it's not just the young! I have no hips to speak of--waist/hip 
>measurement much closer to each other than the feminine "ideal", so if 
>I buy regular women's pants that fit me around the waist, they are 
>usually wide enough around the rear-end to look like clown pants. Plus 
>I have a fairly low rise so if I don't want them hanging/bagging a foot 
>below the crotch I have to pull them practically up to my chin. The 
>low-rise pants and jeans (not super low rise, just moderate) have been 
>a godsend--finally pants that fit right!!
>
>Mandatory historic costume comment: one of the most fun things about 
>doing costume for re-enactment is that you can experiment with, and 
>then choose, a style that actually works with your body type.
>
>- Hope

I'm exactly the opposite - long waist, short legs, big bum, small(er) 
waist. Trousers that fit round my hips look like a sack when belted in 
to my waist, and cropped trousers are just right for ankle length on me. 
The problem with modern clothes is just that you can only get what's 
currently fashionable - tell you what, you can keep the current trousers 
for the next 10 years or so, if I can have the style of 10 years ago 
back.

Jean

-- 
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Sorry to bother the list with this, but I recently changed email addresses
and I need to unsubscribe my old address and resubscribe under my new one.
 I know I had instructions at one time (I did manage to join this list
once), but for the life of me I cannot find them.  Can anyone help?

Thanks,
Susan

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT? - Help with Unsubscribing/Resubscribing
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Quoting lecachot@airmail.net:

> Sorry to bother the list with this, but I recently changed email addresses
> and I need to unsubscribe my old address and resubscribe under my new one.
>  I know I had instructions at one time (I did manage to join this list
> once), but for the life of me I cannot find them.  Can anyone help?

I had to just do this in fact.  Go to the web site

> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

and log on -- you may need to create a log-in name and password.  Then you
can log in and simply change the email address.  You'll need to click the
first "save" to make that change.  Email me off list if you have any problems
or need anything else.

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 27 19:50:47 2005
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Shoes Re: [h-cost] Wearing skirts over pants
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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For modern stuff, may I recommend Munro brand?
I have 7 1/2 WW feet, with narrow heels & a very high
arch.  I haven't kicked off my shoes yet, because they
are Munro brand & comfy.
If you are ever in central Connecticut--Footprints
shoe store, off Rte. 15 in Newington specializes in
having multiple A to multiple E widths.

My fifteenth century shoes are from Master Dru & very
wonderful they are.  Custom.

My main nineteenth century shoes are from Amazon
Drygoods, the Balmoral boots, and are comfy enough
that they've outlasted three out soles so far.

Ann in CT


--- purplkat@optonline.net wrote:
> 
> And I won't get started on the ladies sz 7 1/2 WW
> shoes... in pretty white flats for office work. 
> Did I say also - I have high arches....
> 
> Katheryne



		
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Subject: [h-cost] Bead Stringing 
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Hi Fran.... 
 
About  your impression on the "amateur beading  jobs" 
 
You seem to like things the way I do! with knots in between each bead.. 
However I am minded to mention that your comment of armature beading is well leaving me as to inform you better about beading and its many facets! 
 
It sounds like you want a quality Job.. NO harm there!  I expect no less than the best!  Ask my husband I get what I want! 
 
I applaude you for kinda knowing what you want.. However having knots between each bead will not prevent breakage of the stringing "cord" alone 
 
The care you take after the item is complete will help prolong the life of the Item.. Including how much wear and tear the Item gets if its a lot you will be looking to restring in a couple years again! All string will eventually stretch!  Especially if you are using a heavy bead that will cause the cord to stretch faster.... Since they are glass be careful because  glass beads have tiny fractures that act as "teeth" on the cord and may eventually "eat" the cording you use causing  early breakage..... 
 
These are all things to Keep in mind as well as the technique used for stringing these beads. They sound really pretty and I for one do not want you to loose anymore of them especially sicne some were your Mums! 
 
.  
Good luck getting these strung. to your satisfaction! I would ask a jeweler in your area who they know does what Kind of quality stringing in your area.. That you are looking for!   It may save on postage etc...... 
 
 
Hope this helps. .I just do not like seeing anyone looking for an absolute solution for beading cause there arent any I know I hve been lookin gfor 25 years for one! LOL!
 
 
Satine


		
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: mundane pattern alteration question (princess seam)
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OK.  I know all y'all know lots more about pattern alteration than I do.  I need
to alter a mundane princess seamed garmet (seams going into armhole rather than
to shoulder).  I'm chesty -- 34 F/G -- and the curve is always too high -- how
do I lower it?

Thanks,
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 21:48:20 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bead Stringing
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      I remember something else from my beading classes - knotting is 
traditional for pearls (as is using silk cord).  If they break, you 
won't drop any more than one pearl.

      There were crystal necklaces, I think popular in the 1940s, 
plain crystal.  My grandmother's was "strung" on a chain, not any 
kind of string.  Probably because the beads were tough on string, as 
Satine described.

      -Carol
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And then there's those of us in the other extreme - Even "natural 
waistline" pants are hipsters on me - VERY long rise - and almost no-one 
carries "talls" any more (which I sometimes need to hem because while I 
have a 33" inseam, most "talls" are 35").  Never mind finding tops long 
enough to cover the torso, or anything with a waist seam that actually 
comes anywhere near my waist (whatever the definition <g>).  Any wonder I 
live in knits and T-shirts? (except costumes, of course).

Sandy

>From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing skirts over pants
>
> > ( he was 36 and she just 21 at the time ) about her horror over the fact
> > that natural waistlines in trousers are coming back ( albeit slowly ). She
> > has never worn anything *but* hipster jeans/trousers and thought that the
> > natural waistline was just not right _and_ made her her bum look big! :-)
>
>Actually, I think it's the opposite. Higher waistlines make the waist look
>much slimmer, and put a nice emphasis on the butt. My only problem with them
>is that most of them are too long for me. I'm short-waisted and a lot of
>them dig into my lower ribs. The slightly higher low-rider styles are just
>right for me. Or what we used to call low-waist style 15 years ago :-)

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Status: RO

   This isn't my main period of interest, but I may be making a pair of 
breeches (mid-1770s) for someone and have been looking around on the web.  
The ones for sale as Jas Townsend list pockets.  Is that correct for the 
time?
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_17&products_id=497
  Is the Eagle View pattern suitable in terms of authenticity?  I found a 
review that said it had clear instructions, which is also a good thing.
  Thanks for any info.
Laura Dickerson


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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] pockets in 18th century breeches
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Pockets are most certainly correct. In fact there should be three.  To on
either side, usually buttoning closed just before the hips.  And a watch
pocket on the right front side just above the fall.  I wouldn't use the
Eagle View pattern,

Ron Carnegie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Laura Dickerson
> Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 12:54 PM
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] pockets in 18th century breeches
>
>
>    This isn't my main period of interest, but I may be making a pair of
> breeches (mid-1770s) for someone and have been looking around on
> the web.
> The ones for sale as Jas Townsend list pockets.  Is that correct for the
> time?
> http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_17&products_id=497
>   Is the Eagle View pattern suitable in terms of authenticity?  I found a
> review that said it had clear instructions, which is also a good thing.
>   Thanks for any info.
> Laura Dickerson
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Juana la Loca
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I just saw this film [also known as "Mad Love"]. What a clunker...but very  
beautiful. It's sorta the Spanish version of "Ann of a Thousand Days." It 
starts  to drag about half way through because it's sorta the same scene of Juana 
being  insanely jealous over her hunky husband [Philip the Handsome...yes 
that's what  he was really called] over and over. You want to slap her and say 
"Girl!  Get a grip! You're queen of Castile, fer Christ sake!"
 
Anyway, the costumes are beautiful [as are all the design elements] and for  
those of us who can watch just about anything with good costumes, worth the 2  
hours. The court ladies look fantastic, but it's the men who really  look 
good....in what I consider a difficult period ...late 1400s to early  
1500s....and it's mostly in Spain. Indeed, my only complaint is there's not much  
difference between the Spanish look and the Flemish look. But that's minor,  
really...and things get suitably dreary when Juana goes into mourning over her  mother.
 
Interesting historical note: [I like to look up characters to see what  
REALLY happened] Philip and Juana were ship wrecked in England where they were  the 
guests of Henry VII....who apparently courted Juana after Philip dies early  
on. But she was just too nuts.
 
Her younger sister was Catherine of Aragon.
 
Anyway, you Renaissance lovers should check it out if you haven't seen it.  I 
think it came out in 2002.
 
 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun 28 10:36:14 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Waists, waists, waists
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I get this ALL THE TIME!  With some people it's easy.

Confused person: My waist is down here.
Me: Where are you the smallest?
Confused person: Well... up here.
Me: That's your waist.

But that doesn't work for a lot of people so I usually
fall back on the ol' standby:  "Bend side to side. 
Put your hands where you bend.  THAT is your waist. 
Believe it or not!"

I think people get confused because even before the
hipster craze, even though waists were higher they
weren't natural.

P.S. I love hipsters.  More pants fit me this way and
I'm FINALLY finding stuff long enough that I don't
look like I'm wearing floods.  Hooray!



		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun 28 10:37:44 2005
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics
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Kimiko,

My heartfelt sympathy about your mother. I've been through a very similar situation. 

And many, many good wishes to you and your husband and sons, for your daughter-to-be. May she be a healthy, happy baby. Congratulations!

Can't help with any of the hat things, but I hope you have fun with whatever projects you end up doing!

Joannah.

--- Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:

From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 20:21:11 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Renaissance hats in velvet fabrics

Hi all,

It's been several months since I left the mail list, and I am glad to have 
returned. My life story took quite a turn earlier this year as I took care 
of my ailing mom, and focused all my efforts for her. She died on May 1 
after a year long fight with lung cancer. I have since been trying to 
reclaim my own life, one small step at a time. On the positive side, my 
husband and I are expecting a baby girl in mid-October, which after two 
boys will be different for me. But it does mean that any full costuming 
plans I had are currently on hold till sometime this winter.

So, I figured I would work on accessories for my outfits this summer, such 
as finishing my leather gloves (inspiration for the gauntlets still elude 
me), making partlets (a Tudor and an Elizabethan), and making appropriate 
hats as my old ones ... well are old.

On hats, I would like to make a Tudor gable hat, a French hood similar to 
what Mary Brandon (sister to Henry VIII) wears in her portrait with her 
husband, and something for my Elizabethan attire (what exactly, I am not sure).

I have worked with cotton velveteen for my previous hats (scraps from the 
main gowns), but this time I want to work with better velvets. I don't know 
if cotton velvet or silk/rayon velvet would be better choices for hats?

Is there a millinery velvet still available? I searched for millinery 
velvet in LA's hat store (the one at the edge of the garment district), but 
I didn't see it. Might have overlooked it considering how dark the place was.

Anyway, any and all suggestions or experiences working with the various 
velvets for hats would be appreciated. Also, any suggestions for 
appropriate silk to use for lining the hats would be helpful. I am 
concerned with using something too slippery, as I don't want them falling 
or sliding around my head all the time.

Thanks all.

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)

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Galadriel of Lothlorien wrote:

> But that doesn't work for a lot of people so I usually
> fall back on the ol' standby:  "Bend side to side. 
> Put your hands where you bend.  THAT is your waist. 
> Believe it or not!"

And the guys that wear their pants under the tummy bulge think that's 
their waist.  Of course that puts the hang of the pants fronts all 
funny, but they have a choice of either over or under the bulge, neither 
one of which is ideal.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"I told Dru I'm laying down the law tonight."
"A verb very close to her heart."  -- Pibgorn
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Juana la Loca
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Status: RO

I'm going from memory here, haven't read on this subject in a long time, 
and have never been expert on it.  So my information is vague . . . 
However, there is some historical debate over whether Juana "the mad" 
actually was mad.  There were strong political reasons for pushing her 
out of the way.  Juana inherited part of Spain, I think Castile, from 
her mother; which had not been expected when she married because at that 
time older siblings were in line for the inheritance (they later died).  
When a woman inherited a kingdom, the men in her life were all anxious 
to rule it for her (think of Mary Queen of Scots).  In Juana's case, the 
men were her father, her husband, and later her grandson, Charles V, I 
think.  So it was very convenient to declare her mad and establish her 
permanently in a remote castle.

As for Henry VII not marrying Juana, again I haven't read up on this.  
But I believe Henry considered a number of alliances for his son as well 
as himself.  This was perfectly normal for the period; everybody shopped 
around for the best political and financial deal. Henry VII ended up not 
remarrying at all, if I recall.  As for Juana, again, this is a very 
vague memory, but I seem to recall he said something like--this is the 
sentiment, not the words--it didn't matter if a woman was mad if she was 
attractive and fertile. 

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com







> 
>Interesting historical note: [I like to look up characters to see what  
>REALLY happened] Philip and Juana were ship wrecked in England where they were  the 
>guests of Henry VII....who apparently courted Juana after Philip dies early  
>on. But she was just too nuts.
> 
>
>  
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Juana la Loca
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 Juana attacked her husband in a jealous rage with a pair of scissors.  After his death, she wouldn't part with his body.  She took it everywhere.  It was finally taken from her by force.  True, she may not have been mad, but she did have anger management and separation anxiety issues.....
 
Ramona
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 08:28:41 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Juana la Loca


I'm going from memory here, haven't read on this subject in a long time, and have never been expert on it. So my information is vague . . . However, there is some historical debate over whether Juana "the mad" actually was mad. There were strong political reasons for pushing her out of the way. Juana inherited part of Spain, I think Castile, from her mother; which had not been expected when she married because at that time older siblings were in line for the inheritance (they later died). When a woman inherited a kingdom, the men in her life were all anxious to rule it for her (think of Mary Queen of Scots). In Juana's case, the men were her father, her husband, and later her grandson, Charles V, I think. So it was very convenient to declare her mad and establish her permanently in a remote castle. 
 
As for Henry VII not marrying Juana, again I haven't read up on this. But I believe Henry considered a number of alliances for his son as well as himself. This was perfectly normal for the period; everybody shopped around for the best political and financial deal. Henry VII ended up not remarrying at all, if I recall. As for Juana, again, this is a very vague memory, but I seem to recall he said something like--this is the sentiment, not the words--it didn't matter if a woman was mad if she was attractive and fertile.  
Fran 
Lavolta Press 
http://www.lavoltapress.com 
 
 
 
 
> >Interesting historical note: [I like to look up characters to see what >REALLY happened] Philip and Juana were ship wrecked in England where they were the >guests of Henry VII....who apparently courted Juana after Philip dies early >on. But she was just too nuts. 
> > 
> > 
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Physical violence, and verbal rages, used to be far more acceptable than 
now.   For example, was Philip ever involved in a swordfight during his 
lifetime?

As for the corpse, for an age that revered body parts that had 
supposedly belonged to saints, it seems less peculiar than we would 
think it if someone did it now.

The bottom line is that we make a much firmer distinction between 
madness (psychosis), chronic inability to function well in society 
(neurosis), and difficult but usually temporary (if sometimes extended) 
emotional states (depression on the death of a loved one, rage at a 
soon-to-be-divorced spouse, and so on).  In most previous eras, the line 
between an individual being permitted unusual and difficult behavior, 
and being shut away, often depended on whether someone had the motives 
and power to shut that person away.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

fabrichoarder@aol.com wrote:

> Juana attacked her husband in a jealous rage with a pair of scissors.  After his death, she wouldn't part with his body.  She took it everywhere.  It was finally taken from her by force.  True, she may not have been mad, but she did have anger management and separation anxiety issues.....
> 
>Ramona
> 
>  
>
>  
>
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Thank you so much to the many who have posted suggestions to this 
thread. I will be considering many of them, not only for this year, but 
for the future. To clarify, we aren't planning an exhibit at this 
time--this is tough for us just in terms of mannequins. What we plan to 
do is offer a one time program with a short presentation and time for 
showing people a few pieces from our collection.

For those who wondered about the museum, it's the Geneva Historical 
Society in Geneva, NY. That's in the Finger Lakes midway between 
Rochester and Syracuse, about 6 hours drive from NYC and 3-4 from 
Toronto. Most of our collection covers from about 1780-the present, with 
the bulk from the 1830s to 1960s. Our website is 
www.genevahistoricalsociety.com (though it doesn't have much info on the 
collection) if you want to check it out.

Thanks again.
Anne
-- 
Anne Dealy
adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wearing skirts over pants
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 You missed the sign up for the"short waist club";~>
 My "length betwen my waist and hip bones is about 2
finger widths(1-1 1/2"?) try fitting that! Used to
shop in the Sears pre-teen dept.before the
kids"re-arranged" my figure. I buy the hipster panties
to fit as briefs,also have the "Footballers"
shoulders,apparently I own short arms too,as all
sleeves got to my knuckles,(great for Regency era,not
cool with tailored suits).
Was tempted to learn how to make shoes also, I have
narrow heels and "duck" feet....oh and I posses an
extra set of ankle bones ,on the inside of my feet,so
they all rub an the extras...I only wear suede if I
can,it gives.
  At least with costumes,you can tailor the clothes to
your particular "pecidillos". 
Or pick an era that suits your body type.
Now shopping in a 15 century Italian gown,does turn
heads.........
   Congrats on the wedding.
 Melody

--- purplkat@optonline.net wrote:

> snip.....
> 
> Someone else with the 'short-rise' problem.
> I have a long torso and a short rise (3" from
> natural waist to hip bone). 
> 
> Boy's dress shirts with longer bodies and sleeves,
> petite pants with short rise, ladies medium
> undergarments. 
> Suit coats big enough to fit my broad shoulders -
> sleeves are too long and the body is baggy. Coats
> that fit the body and sleeves are too narrow in the
> shoulders... ETC....
> 
> And I won't get started on the ladies sz 7 1/2 WW
> shoes... 
> Did I say also - I have high arches....
> 
> Katheryne
> 
> OHC - I'm working on repairing/ renovating a 1940's
> full hoop wedding dress for my wedding in 2 weeks.
> Talk about lace and crinoline!!!! aagghh. (smile) 
> I'll try to get a pic for everyone.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
> 
> SNIP
> > Plus I have a fairly low rise so if I don't want
> them hanging/bagging a foot 
> > below the crotch I have to pull them practically
> up to my chin.


		
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Anne wrote:
> Most of our collection covers from about 1780-the present, with 
> the bulk from the 1830s to 1960s. Our website is 
> www.genevahistoricalsociety.com (though it doesn't have much info on the 
> collection) if you want to check it out.

Adding pictures of the collection would be wonderful. It's something you 
could do slowly over a period of time, adding good photos of a few 
pieces at a time. It would also be a good visual record of the 
collection in case, god forbid, something were to happen to it. 
Eventually you could collect pictures into a book that might become a 
fundraiser.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [h-cos]  "seeing error"...get my white cane
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M & N are too close on the keyboard for my 52 yr old
myopic and reading glasses needing eyeballs. spell
check was apparently happy with matty.
 Errol Flynn was never "matty" even as the Pirate
scoundrel.
I am aware of the matty/natty
difference....yucky/nice...
just can't frickin' see....

-

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Juana la Loca
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 12:50:48 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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In some defense of Juana, hubby dear was famous for his womanizing.
Although women were supposed to suffer in silence(and still are expected
to in most world cultures today) a husband's serial unfaithfulness, even
in the "enlightened" West), you have to hand it to Juana for fighting
back in some way that most wives throughout history would have secretly
applauded. So keeping his body in death was some kind of revenge, abeit
macabre. 

Also if Philip had caught some sexually transmitted disease, especially
VD, over time this could have effected her mentally and physically. And
if any of their children had inheirited an STD, she could have been both
angry and guilty that she hadn't prevented Philip's unfaithfulness.

Henry VII, recently widowed, offered to wed Juana, so perhaps she wasn't
that insane. Insane or not, having her pronounced so and committed to a
convent certainly made the inheiritance issue of who would rule the
kingdoms of Aragon and Castile(soon to be officially one as Spain), much
easier for father Ferdinand to choose his heir. Can't remember if this
was one of Juana's brothers or her sons, but a male heir was always
preferred. A woman as ruler(Juana's mother Isabelle of Castile was the
very rare exception. She quickly married cousin Ferdinand of neighboring
Aragon)was always a last resort.

Juana's younger sister Catherine also had a fixation over not giving up
her husband, namely, Henry VIII. Where other royal wives in the past had
voluntarily or forceably retired to convents or agreed to anulments upon
that rare failure of providing that all-important male heir, Salic law
or no, Catherine dug in her heels, invoked God's will that she hadn't
produced a surviving male heir for Henry, and made no excuse that she
wanted her daughter, Mary, wedded to Spanish royalty, or at least to a
ruler or heir of a vassal of Spain. Pre Anne Boleyn, Catherine had not
been at all agreeable to  Henry VIII, understandably, wanted a male
heir, to prevent the possibility of England becoming just another
outpost colony of Spain. Henry's complaint that "Am I not a man like
other men?" was a veiled statement that other Popes had annuled royal
marriages or engagements when a male heir was needed(he fathered and
recognized his son Henry Fitzroy)by Elizabeth Blount). 

Spain wanted England on its side. Rome may have wanted England to be
completely faithful to the Church as Lollardism had never completely
disappeared from England. So perhaps there was an unspoken "agreement",
enforced later by Charles of Spain's troops sacking Rome and making the
Pope prisoner, in effect, that Henry VIII's having only a legitimate
daughter was "God's Will" and it would be a good thing to have young
Mary wed into the Spanish royal family.

Cindy Abel
cynthiaabel@creighton.edu 
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of fabrichoarder@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 11:25 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Juana la Loca

 Juana attacked her husband in a jealous rage with a pair of scissors.
After his death, she wouldn't part with his body.  She took it
everywhere.  It was finally taken from her by force.  True, she may not
have been mad, but she did have anger management and separation anxiety
issues.....
 
Ramona
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 08:28:41 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Juana la Loca


I'm going from memory here, haven't read on this subject in a long time,
and have never been expert on it. So my information is vague . . .
However, there is some historical debate over whether Juana "the mad"
actually was mad. There were strong political reasons for pushing her
out of the way. Juana inherited part of Spain, I think Castile, from her
mother; which had not been expected when she married because at that
time older siblings were in line for the inheritance (they later died).
When a woman inherited a kingdom, the men in her life were all anxious
to rule it for her (think of Mary Queen of Scots). In Juana's case, the
men were her father, her husband, and later her grandson, Charles V, I
think. So it was very convenient to declare her mad and establish her
permanently in a remote castle. 
 
As for Henry VII not marrying Juana, again I haven't read up on this.
But I believe Henry considered a number of alliances for his son as well
as himself. This was perfectly normal for the period; everybody shopped
around for the best political and financial deal. Henry VII ended up not
remarrying at all, if I recall. As for Juana, again, this is a very
vague memory, but I seem to recall he said something like--this is the
sentiment, not the words--it didn't matter if a woman was mad if she was
attractive and fertile.  
Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com 
 
 
 
 
> >Interesting historical note: [I like to look up characters to see
what >REALLY happened] Philip and Juana were ship wrecked in England
where they were the >guests of Henry VII....who apparently courted Juana
after Philip dies early >on. But she was just too nuts. 
> > 
> > 
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waists, waists, waists
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I love when guys with a "beer barrel" belly say " I
have a 32" waist."  they think they still have feet,
they haven't seen them in years because of their
"waists"....

--- Cynthia Virtue
<cvirtue+dated+1135521708.a65cbe@thibault.org> wrote:

> Galadriel of Lothlorien wrote:
> 
> > But that doesn't work for a lot of people so I
> usually
> > fall back on the ol' standby:  "Bend side to side.
> 
> > Put your hands where you bend.  THAT is your
> waist. 
> > Believe it or not!"
> 
> And the guys that wear their pants under the tummy
> bulge think that's 
> their waist.  Of course that puts the hang of the
> pants fronts all 
> funny, but they have a choice of either over or
> under the bulge, neither 
> one of which is ideal.
> 
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
> 
> "I told Dru I'm laying down the law tonight."
> "A verb very close to her heart."  -- Pibgorn
> _______________________________________________
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Melody Watts wrote:
> I love when guys with a "beer barrel" belly say " I
> have a 32" waist."

There must be a technical term for the bulge part, because if you're 
doing real tailoring, you need to know what it is and how big it is.  I 
just call it 'bulge' when I'm measuring someone, though.

And I know from my own body that if you wear your waistband there, all 
the time, fat won't deposit at the waistband, so the rest gets even bulgier.

>>>Put your hands where you bend.  THAT is your waist. 

The waist would be a horizontal oval intersecting those points, right? 
Not a shape which dips down from the horizontal while intersecting those 
points.

I have to roll the front waistband of off-the-rack skirts so that the 
hem hangs horizontal because of this.  If I had the time, I'd hem the 
skirts properly.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"I told Dru I'm laying down the law tonight."
"A verb very close to her heart."  -- Pibgorn
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From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
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Pockets are good, 

no pockets are good, 

you only need a watch pocket IF you actually have a watch -  To make for a common british solider like I would make for my husband Corporal Dappert of HM 64th of foot...  I leave off the pockets.  They have no money, they spend it all on drink!!

I've used the Eagles view, their OK, but for me, I have to adjust.  They run short in the crotch, and I have to take in the legs ALOT to get a proper SLIM LEG/Baboon behind, late 1700's fit.  The Eagles view patterns are products of the bicenntenial and look more like plus fours/knickers (?  All you men's clothing experts, is that the correct term?  I'm thinking late 19, early to mid 20th cent. golfing wear thingy's)  Legs run too bagg for proper Am Rev War fit.  Other than that, they are OK.  I don't try other company's cause I've gotten to wear I can adjust and make a pair very quickly.  Technique I take from some of the williamsburg books - What clothes reveal and Costume Closeup.  Fitting and Proper tto.   Taken all togeth, they get a pretty good product.  Not perfect, but  they fit the 10 rule and look good at 10 feet away.  

Perfect reproductions now, that's my end goal, but for now...Practice Practice

Mia in Charlotte, NC

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Ramona wrote:

> Juana attacked her husband in a jealous rage with a pair of scissors.  After
> his death, she wouldn't part with his body.  She took it everywhere.  It was
> finally taken from her by force.  True, she may not have been mad, but she did
> have anger management and separation anxiety issues.....
> 

Ha ha! You convinced me.

Gail Finke

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] ]  "seeing error"...get my white cane
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 14:41:56 -0500
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Perhaps sticking a tiny rhinestone on the N might help. :)

De

-----Original Message-----
M & N are too close on the keyboard for my 52 yr old
myopic and reading glasses needing eyeballs. spell
check was apparently happy with matty.
 Errol Flynn was never "matty" even as the Pirate
scoundrel.
I am aware of the matty/natty
difference....yucky/nice...
just can't frickin' see....


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is this for real???

Katheryne

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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: mens 1770 pants
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Hello


>From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
>Date: Tue Jun 28 14:09:15 CDT 2005
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: mens 1770 pants

>
>Pockets are good, 
>
>no pockets are good, 
>
>you only need a watch pocket IF you actually have a watch -  To make for a common british solider like I would make for my husband Corporal Dappert of HM 64th of foot...  I leave off the pockets.  They have no money, they spend it all on drink!!
>
>I've used the Eagles view, their OK, but for me, I have to adjust.  They run short in the crotch, and I have to take in the legs ALOT to get a proper SLIM LEG/Baboon behind, late 1700's fit.  The Eagles view patterns are products of the bicenntenial and look more like plus fours/knickers (?  All you men's clothing experts, is that the correct term?  I'm thinking late 19, early to mid 20th cent. golfing wear thingy's)  Legs run too bagg for proper Am Rev War fit.  Other than that, they are OK.  I don't try other company's cause I've gotten to wear I can adjust and make a pair very quickly.  Technique I take from some of the williamsburg books - What clothes reveal and Costume Closeup.  Fitting and Proper tto.   Taken all togeth, they get a pretty good product.  Not perfect, but  they fit the 10 rule and look good at 10 feet away.  
>
>Perfect reproductions now, that's my end goal, but for now...Practice Practice
>
>Mia in Charlotte, NC
>
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purplkat@optonline.net wrote:

> is this for real???

The message doesn't throw any of my "bogus" dectectors.  I haven't gone 
to go read it via News, though.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"I told Dru I'm laying down the law tonight."
"A verb very close to her heart."  -- Pibgorn
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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: mens 1770 pants
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   I would definetly go with pockets.  All the originals I have seen have had them.  They also make the garment far more useful, and reduce the likelihood that the man will have to carry around a haversack as if it was a purse!  Labor is cheap in the 18th century.  Cloth is not, but not much is needed for pockets.  The interiors can easily be made from cabbage.  Besides, living in 18th century clothes as I do, I am perturbed whenever I have clothes without the proper pockets.  No where to keep all the stuff you got to carry!

   I would suggest Janice Ryan's pattern, though a muslin might be necessary.  I am told that there are some sizing issues, though I recall none. I have used both. The Eagle's view pattern is not very well researched and it has some serious fitting issues (though none that can not be resolved).

   I would add the watch pocket.  They often exist on extant garments.  It might cause him if he gets a watch to wear it in the right place (instead of his waistcoat).  Lastly watches must be more prevelent than is generally thought, otherwies a poor man like me would never be able to have purchased two.  To many survive for me to believe that they are all that rare.  Of course I do not recall what the original intention of these breeches was?

Ron Carnegie

>
>Pockets are good, 
>
>no pockets are good, 
>
>you only need a watch pocket IF you actually have a watch -  To make for a common british solider like I would make for my husband Corporal Dappert of HM 64th of foot...  I leave off the pockets.  They have no money, they spend it all on drink!!
>
>I've used the Eagles view, their OK, but for me, I have to adjust.  They run short in the crotch, and I have to take in the legs ALOT to get a proper SLIM LEG/Baboon behind, late 1700's fit.  The Eagles view patterns are products of the bicenntenial and look more like plus fours/knickers (?  All you men's clothing experts, is that the correct term?  I'm thinking late 19, early to mid 20th cent. golfing wear thingy's)  Legs run too bagg for proper Am Rev War fit.  Other than that, they are OK.  I don't try other company's cause I've gotten to wear I can adjust and make a pair very quickly.  Technique I take from some of the williamsburg books - What clothes reveal and Costume Closeup.  Fitting and Proper tto.   Taken all togeth, they get a pretty good product.  Not perfect, but  they fit the 10 rule and look good at 10 feet away.  
>
>Perfect reproductions now, that's my end goal, but for now...Practice Practice
>
>Mia in Charlotte, NC
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
>http://mail.yahoo.com 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun 28 17:09:10 2005
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Apprently there were several people who requested the additional form
of access to the list's wonderful information.  Gmane is very highly
respected by people I trust, so I've approved the request for
gatewaying.

					...eliz

-- 
Children are made up of genetics, blind luck, and the stories you tell them.
 - The Flying Ks

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Juana
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In a message dated 6/28/2005 3:28:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
gailscott@eos.net writes:

Juana  attacked her husband in a jealous rage with a pair of scissors.   After
> his death, she wouldn't part with his body.  She took it  everywhere.  It 
was
> finally taken from her by force.  True,  she may not have been mad, but she 
did
> have anger management and  separation anxiety issues.....
> 

Ha ha! You convinced  me.



Royalty! Sheesh!
 
Of course she was being used. And in a era where alcoholism was considered  
madness, her neurotic behavior was "madness" too.
 
 
And the COSTUMES are good too......
 
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I researched Juana la loca while writing my history of cochineal.  Her story 
is fascinating, and I'm not surprised it's been made into a movie -- though 
it sounds like the cinematic version strays pretty far from the known facts.

Although it's certainly true that accusations of insanity could be a 
convenient way to strip a woman of power, in the case of Juana the signs of 
instability were quite extreme.  It may well have been her philandering 
husband who pushed her beyond the brink, but after he died her behavior only 
became more erratic.  As others have already noted, she insisted on touring 
Spain with her husband's casket, which most people considered rather odd. 
But what really made Europe talk was the fact that she kept insisting that 
her servants open up the casket so that she could see his dead body.

As far as we can tell, this macabre story was true.  It was also true that 
Juana was not the only Iberian royal to suffer from madness.  The inbred 
houses of Portugal and Spain regularly produced individuals who suffered 
from what was then termed extreme "melancholia."  In fact it happened so 
often that madness was seen as the great curse of the house of Spain.  (I 
should add that some people considered the enormous Habsburg jaw a curse, 
too.)

As for her male relatives wanting to pack her away for political motives, 
Juana's father didn't have any reason to do this, since he was king of Spain 
at the time, and by law he was bound to remain so until his death.  And her 
son, Carlos (later Charles V), doesn't seem to have played any role in the 
decision to remove his mother from public life:  he was only a small child 
when Juana retired to Tordesillas.

Charles and most of his sisters were raised by his aunt in the Netherlands, 
but the youngest sister, Catalina, was raised by Juana at Tordesillas. 
Although the child was unhappy, no one dared take her away, for fear of 
seeing Juana lose her mind entirely.  And to bring this all back to some 
kind of costume-related note, I'll note that a contemporary source says that 
the Princess Catalina was said to have dressed far below her station, 
wearing nothing but a sheepskin jacket "worth less than two ducats" over her 
plain shift.


Amy G.

Amy Butler Greenfield
www.amybutlergreenfield.com
cochineal@comcast.net

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From: Jacqueline Johnson <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Juana la Loca
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I don't think Juana was any more or less nuts than any other female of
her time. As for opening the coffin...she wasn't alone in that. It
seems to have been fairly common to look on the body of the beloved.
(think of the catacombs) Now yes we think of it as gruesome. But also
keep in mind her father had her declared insane to gain control of her
lands and monarchy and her underage children. Throw in more than
likely veneral disease from her lovely hubby and you have sure signs
of some untreated clinical depression gone badly wrong. Be sure also
to check out:
http://www.xs4all.nl/~kvenjb/madmon.htm
Great pages of other Mad Monarchs including Juana.

Bice

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Juana la Loca
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 17:29:41 -0500
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Anyone think that maybe this was her way of say she finally gets him all to
herself?
Due to politics of the time and the mysterious deaths of nobility I would
say keeping on your toes 24/7 can drive you a bit crazy. Look at James of
Scotland.

De
Just because your paranoid doesn't mean there isn't someone out there to get
you.
-----Original Message-----
Europe talk was the fact that she kept insisting that
her servants open up the casket so that she could see his dead body.



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Subject: Re: ????  Re: [h-cost] h-costume added to Gmane
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purplkat@optonline.net writes:
>
> is this for real???

It sure is--I'm reading the mailing list on
nntp://news.gmane.org/gmane.culture.studies.history.costume from within
gnus right now.  Granted gnus makes mailing lists look pretty news-like
as it stands, but gmane's still nicer.  Also, its archives are supposed
to be pretty good.  It's even possible to import the old archives, but I
don't believe that I requested that.

On a more clothing-related note, I finally finished my Elizabethan
doublet, slops & netherstocks.  Approx. two months of handsewing, and a
project which I had put off for the last four or five years.  Not nearly
as much pain as I'd been led to believe.  I'll post a link to some pics
when I finally get some taken.

My one quibble is with the codpiece: the pattern I used is _not_ at all
decent.  So I need to fix that.  Otherwise things went very well
indeed.  Slashing with a 5/8" chisel worked very well--there are four
different types of slashing on the doublet (one for the body; one for
the collar; one for the wings; and one for the skirt), and one for the
slops.  My one regret is that the interlining is rather boring--next
time I'll use the structural fabric for the lining and the pretty fabric
for the interlining, so that it shows through the slashes.

The doublet & slops are lined in a light blue dupioni <sp?> silk, with a
somewhat stiff & heavy beige cotton lining and a black wool body.  I'm
not familiar enough with fabric to be certain (I'm a real amateur!), but
I believe that it's a tabby weave--very lightweight fabric, heavier than
a suiting but lighter than most wool.  The closest I can come to
describing it is as a kind of woolen broadcloth.  Wish I could find some
more, to tell the truth, and in more colours.

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
Mailserver lockup.
Error message boggles mind.
Oh well.  Beer is cold.
        --Jason Wright

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From: "Amy Butler Greenfield" <osmanthus@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Juana la Loca
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Just a quick correction to my earlier post about Juana la loca:

Officially her father Ferdinand was merely the King of Aragon.  When his 
wife Isabella died in 1504 her title of Queen of Castile went to Juana.  But 
in practice Ferdinand ruled all of Spain, and this was the case even when 
Juana was still regarded as essentially sane.

It apparently took years to persuade Juana to give up her husband's body, 
and her courtiers had strong words to say about the smell of the casket 
whenever it was opened, to say nothing of the state of the contents inside.

For a glimpse of her husband (Philip Hermoso) in better days, in all his 
finery:

http://barbarina5.tripod.com/Images/PhilipHermoso.jpg


Amy G.

Amy Butler Greenfield
www.amybutlergreenfield.com
cochineal@comcast.net

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In a message dated 6/28/2005 7:24:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
osmanthus@comcast.net writes:

http://barbarina5.tripod.com/Images/PhilipHermoso.jpg



Que Hermoso....NOT
 
He certainly doesn't look like this in the film. He looks like Fabio. 
 
Well, y'know, period aesthetics.
 
Also in the film they clearly imply his nose is not his largest  feature.
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Definitely go for the pockets - many originals I've seen have them.  

Can't recommend a pattern cos I always cut my own (sorry :-) )

Debs

PS - It's knickerbockers - knickers are panties!
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You might be interested in this album by La Nef.  The music supposedly 
belonged to her.

http://www.la-nef.com/la_nef_angl.html#Music%20for%20Joan%20the%20Mad

You can listen to some of it at Amazon.com

*http://tinyurl.com/bsa7s*

>
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I thought it was about time to change the subject heading as I was deleting
these posts without realising the content had changed from the heading;)

> You missed the sign up for the"short waist club";~>
>  My "length betwen my waist and hip bones is about 2
> finger widths(1-1 1/2"?) try fitting that!

Heheh, I have the same issue;) In my case though it's due to very tall hips
(the measurement around my belly button is not much small that around the
"saddlebag" region and then my waist is much smaller than that. Fitting
trousers is an absolute nightmare. The one style I can wear is a stretch
bootleg that sits at about the hipbones and has no fasteners. I have tried
and tried any number of other styles and they just make me look asolutely
awful.
Even these I can pull up over my waist for a very dorky look;)

My apparent waist is in balance if you ignore the big upper hips though, and
then again my fitted garb migrates to the tops of my hips as my ribs end
barely above the hip bone, thus the ares of best squishability is right
there. Not an issue for my Spanish stuff (boning and the need for that
length) but for my German garb it is due to no boning..

> Was tempted to learn how to make shoes also, I have
> narrow heels and "duck" feet....oh and I posses an
> extra set of ankle bones ,on the inside of my feet,so
> they all rub an the extras...I only wear suede if I
> can,it gives.

Snap;) At least I'm guessing you mean feet like little flippers;)

I am giving serious thought to making my own 16thC German foorwear, they are
very cute and should be relatively easy. I just need to make myself a
last... or two due to the whole flipper issue and toe shape. Hey these shoes
are ideal for flipper feet! They get really wide at the toes anyway;)

>   At least with costumes,you can tailor the clothes to
> your particular "pecidillos".
> Or pick an era that suits your body type.

This is also true! Late 15thC Flemish/Lowlands and late 16thC Spanish are my
best friends;) And funnily enough the natural form era due to leg length and
length of torso;)

michaela de bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com
Luckily no flippers in sight;)



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: flipper feet and odd waists was Re: [h-cost] Wearing
	skirts over pants
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>My apparent waist is in balance if you ignore the big upper hips though, and
>then again my fitted garb migrates to the tops of my hips as my ribs end
>barely above the hip bone, thus the ares of best squishability is right
>there. Not an issue for my Spanish stuff (boning and the need for that
>length) but for my German garb it is due to no boning..

I usually fit the lower edges of my Renaissance bodices above my actual 
waist, right at which is a roll of extra me.  That way my bodices sit 
comfortably on top of that roll and don't ride up.  I never have to tug 
them down to my actual waist, which is an un-ladylike thing to do 
anyway.  It does make me look a little short-waisted, which has the effect 
of making my legs look longer, which is a plus.  And the slight point at 
the front of the bottom of the bodice, and the lines of trim converging at 
that point, make me look as narrow-waisted as I'm ever going to look at 225#.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>
> As for her male relatives wanting to pack her away for political 
> motives, Juana's father didn't have any reason to do this, since he 
> was king of Spain at the time, and by law he was bound to remain so 
> until his death.

I thought Juana's father was king of Aragon; but that Isabella was queen 
of Castile and that Castile passed to Isabella's children (in this case 
Juana) rather than to Isabella's husband/Juana's father, or to Juana's 
husband. Also that if there was any ambiguity in a royal inheritance of 
the period, or any perceived power vacuum, the most aggressive likely 
parties made a grab for the throne.

> And her son, Carlos (later Charles V), doesn't seem to have played any 
> role in the decision to remove his mother from public life: he was 
> only a small child when Juana retired to Tordesillas.


Yes. But as far as I know Charles benefited from his mother's continued 
removal from public life; he did not attempt to reinstate her, or to 
bring her back from seclusion even without political power attached.

>
>
> Charles and most of his sisters were raised by his aunt in the 
> Netherlands, but the youngest sister, Catalina, was raised by Juana at 
> Tordesillas. Although the child was unhappy, no one dared take her 
> away, for fear of seeing Juana lose her mind entirely.

Which means that they didn't think her mind was already entirely lost.


> And to bring this all back to some kind of costume-related note, I'll 
> note that a contemporary source says that the Princess Catalina was 
> said to have dressed far below her station, wearing nothing but a 
> sheepskin jacket "worth less than two ducats" over her plain shift.
>

I haven't read it in a long time, but I think the book listed below 
discusses Juana's wardrobe while in exile:

Anderson, Ruth Matilda. /Hispanic Costume 1480–1530./ New York: Hispanic 
Society of America, 1979.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Did anyone catch "Empire" last night, the new series on ancient Rome?

HA HA HA HA.

I really couldn't stand it long enough to comment on the costumes. But
"Tyrannus" (that very common Latin name) looks a lot like Mike the Plumber
from "Desperate Housewives," sexy stubble beard and all. And the clueless
young guy who was supposed to be the future emperor, whatever his name was,
looked like any teen heartthrob actor, except that he DIDN'T have a sexy
stubble beard. That's for when he's older and more cynical, I guess. I give
it another week or two for that to appear.

All ancient Romans, as usual, sound like upper-class British people. In the
little bit I saw, only Anthony looked like an actual Roman person. He could
have been a statue come to life. Again, I can't comment on the accuracy of
the armor or uniform, because I just couldn't watch it long enough. Maybe I
should have turned off the sound? For all this was touted as a revolutionary
series, I thought it was a bad combination of Masterpiece Theater and your
typical American TV drama.

Oh well, another opportunity lost!

Gail Finke


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I caught some of it, and yes, the main actors always fall into the
current aesthetic of what looks attractive now. Usually you have to
check the extras in the background to get a more authentic look
historically.

When I first heard about this series and heard the title "Empire" I
thought either the Napoleonic Enpire or the British Empire as both are
more historic costume interesting. Flame me if I'm wrong but what I saw
of the women's costumes and hairstyles looked less the Rome of Caesar
and more Hollywood's idea of what the women should look like.  Must be
maddenly frustrating for the designers, hairstylists, and makeup people
who do all of the research and then have to water it down to meet
current attractive aesthetics. We have all this increased knowledge of
correct historical costume, but sometimes things remain as historically
inaccurate as early silent movie costume dramas.  

Cindy Abel
cynthiaabel@creighton.edu 

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Mens britches with pockets?  Pretty much all the time?  It was hard enough to agitate for proper tailoring and fitting, and we still have a long way to go with that.

Drats, now I'll have to do some actual work.   So many things to reseach, so little time.  

mia in charlotte, just back from Williamsburg, VA, 

 

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Did anyone catch "Empire" last night, the new series on ancient Rome?

HA HA HA HA.

Oh well, another opportunity lost!

Gail Finke
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..

And I distinctly caught some music riffs from the Gladiator soundtrack,
sigh.

The one positive costume note I saw was that they did seem to be using
real linen for some of the costumes, or at least something that looked
very close to it.

Isn't there supposed to be another Roman themed series on HBO or
Showtime?

Catherine


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Excerpts:

http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1662/06/29/index.php

"To church with my wife, who this day put on her green petticoat of 
flowred satin, with fine white and gimp lace of her own putting on, 
which is very pretty."


http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1662/06/22/index.php

"This day I first put on my slasht doublet, which I like very well."

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"I told Dru I'm laying down the law tonight."
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Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 23:15:37 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waists, waists, waists
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At 02:12 PM 6/28/2005 -0400, you wrote:

<snip>

>I have to roll the front waistband of off-the-rack skirts so that the hem 
>hangs horizontal because of this.  If I had the time, I'd hem the skirts 
>properly.
>
>--
>Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

You know, you're the first person I've ever heard of that has that problem, 
like me.  I cannot buy trousers to fit, the waistband sits in the correct 
place in the back half of me but I have to fold over the top of the front 
of the trousers.  Usually at least by the width of the waistband, sometimes 
more.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 21:39:30 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waists, waists, waists
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>>I have to roll the front waistband of off-the-rack skirts so that the hem 
>>hangs horizontal because of this.  If I had the time, I'd hem the skirts 
>>properly.

>>You know, you're the first person I've ever heard of that has that 
>>problem, like me.  I cannot buy trousers to fit, the waistband sits in 
>>the correct place in the back half of me but I have to fold over the top 
>>of the front of the trousers.  Usually at least by the width of the 
>>waistband, sometimes more.

Several of us have the same problem.  Fortunately it is correctable if you 
make your own skirts for historicals.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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             (((  <> ))))
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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Waists, waists, waists
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I think it is more common than you think - I have the same issue.  The
waistbands on my scrubs come up almost to my bra in front.  And I don't know
why they cut them so high.  *sigh*  I guess that's why I like to sew.
-Megan



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waists, waists, waists
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Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

>> I have to roll the front waistband of off-the-rack skirts so that the 
>> hem hangs horizontal because of this.  If I had the time, I'd hem the 
>> skirts properly.

> You know, you're the first person I've ever heard of that has that 
> problem, like me.

There are plenty of fat women (like me) who I see, who don't realize 
this; their skirts hang lower in the front!

I jumper-dresses avoid the problem, though.  I have a few in-process.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent


"I told Dru I'm laying down the law tonight."
"A verb very close to her heart."  -- Pibgorn
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waists, waists, waists
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That could be a more-butt-in-back-and-less-tummy-in-front issue, as 
well.  My skirts (historical or otherwise) need more hemming in back 
than the front/sides, because I carry most of my abdominal weight in 
front, and I have pretty good hips, structurally.  But little butt (got 
the family "hatchet @ss").  It's even more noticeable in a jumper-dress 
or a long coat, because then the "girls" make things worse.
Even if I were an appropriate size, I wouldn't be able to wear 
low-riders...when I get pants on which the waistband actually sits on my 
waist, I end up looking a bit like Marcel Marceau, as I have a really, 
really long rise (waist is right under my boobs....makes it interesting 
fitting things sometimes with such a short back-waist length).  It never 
caused much of an issue with the historical clothing I've made, although 
I've never tried any of the looks with elongated bodices, since I have 
to make my own patterns anyway.  About the only time I notice is with 
earlier-period construction, if I'm putting in side-gores that start at 
the waist and not the hips.  I have to be careful to see that my side 
gores don't run right into my underarm gussets! ;o)
--sue

Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
> 
>>> I have to roll the front waistband of off-the-rack skirts so that the 
>>> hem hangs horizontal because of this.  If I had the time, I'd hem the 
>>> skirts properly.
> 
> 
>> You know, you're the first person I've ever heard of that has that 
>> problem, like me.
> 
> 
> There are plenty of fat women (like me) who I see, who don't realize 
> this; their skirts hang lower in the front!
> 
> I jumper-dresses avoid the problem, though.  I have a few in-process.
> 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 30 11:36:11 2005
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From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Empire
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Status: RO

I don't know.  I guess to me, irrespective of any accuracy, it is a 
whole lot better than another  'reality' show.  How many of us were 
introduced to history through less than accurate sources?  I know I 
spent most of my youth absorbed in Greek and Roman mythology....I 
eventually found my way to "true" history.  I rather like some of the 
casting choices.  Cicero and Caesar for instance.

Sg


>  
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul  1 11:30:02 2005
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Yes, if your brain is research-wired, better bad than none at all.  At
least if it gets you involved and you start questioning this and
that--sort of a bad road that gets you there anyway.

My parents bought a kind of what we could call now an encyclopedia for
"tweens" now, called "The Wonderland of Knowledge" in the late '50's,
shortly after I was born, along with a Colliers' set of adult
encyclopedias plus the Year Books for several years. Sort of the closest
thing to a multimedia education in those days.  I spent many happy
hours, especially during the summer months, between the ages of 9-12
studying the reproductions of Victorian costume history illustrations of
people like Mary, Queen of Scots and the Empress Josephine in "The
Wonderland of Knowledge."  Would love to hunt down pics of the original
paintings today as inaccurate as they might be to my better educated
eyes forty years later. There was a Victorian era genre painting of a
melancholy Mary, Queen of Scots, seated, holding something that looked
more like an ornate rattle(perhaps some kind of rhythmn-keeper to the
music) as David Rizzio plays the lute. It was maybe painted in the
1890's as Mary(as I recall)wore a full wagon wheel ruff, more suited to
a 17th century Dutch upperclass woman, leg of mutton 1890's sleeves, the
corseted, small waist-wide shoulders, wide skirt of the 1890's and
probably the "Marie Stuart" cap. Another was the Empress Josephine,
overcome with emotion, her head on an Empire(or the Victorian idea of
one)chair, the rest of her becomingly drapped between chair and floor,
with Napoleon looking regreatfully back at her as he opens the door to
leave the room, after announcing he has to divorce her for the sake of
the succession. Josephine appears no older than her twenties in the
reprod of this painting, while Napoleon looks like he stepped out of one
of his paintings in military dress, post becoming Emperor(sans the hand
inside the jacket and vest pose--after all he has to open said door in
the painting!)

Cindy Abel
cynthiaabel@creighton.edu 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Wicked Frau
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 10:35 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Empire

I don't know.  I guess to me, irrespective of any accuracy, it is a
whole lot better than another  'reality' show.  How many of us were
introduced to history through less than accurate sources?  I know I
spent most of my youth absorbed in Greek and Roman mythology....I
eventually found my way to "true" history.  I rather like some of the
casting choices.  Cicero and Caesar for instance.

Sg


>  
>
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