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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Empire
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>When I first heard about this series and heard the title "Empire" I
>thought either the Napoleonic Enpire or the British Empire as both are
>more historic costume interesting. 

 
That's funny. When I heard the title "Empire," I thought of Star Wars. Guess I'm still just an amateur historical costumer. :)
 
Tea Rose
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Nah..you're just a closet cosplayer.

On 7/1/05, tearoses@aol.com <tearoses@aol.com> wrote:
> That's funny. When I heard the title "Empire," I thought of Star Wars. Guess I'm still just an amateur historical costumer. :)
> 
> Tea Rose

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>There are plenty of fat women (like me) who I see, who don't realize
>this; their skirts hang lower in the front!

It seems to me that some of the extant medieval garments are longer in back 
than in front, presumably for this reason.

Marc


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Marc Carlson wrote:

>> There are plenty of fat women (like me) who I see, who don't realize
>> this; their skirts hang lower in the front!
> 
> It seems to me that some of the extant medieval garments are longer in 
> back than in front, presumably for this reason.

Possibly -- although this is only a problem for me for things that end 
at the waistband.  A garment that hangs from the shoulders, even if 
belted, evens out by the time it gets to the hem, what with bust and 
butt sort of counter-balancing.

Are you thinking of everyday wear, or something more frivolous?  Because 
a slight train (a few inches) makes a graceful line without getting in 
the way very much.  But one wouldn't do that for an average garment, I 
think.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"I told Dru I'm laying down the law tonight."
"A verb very close to her heart."  -- Pibgorn
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>>I have to roll the front waistband of off-the-rack skirts so that the hem
>>hangs horizontal because of this.  If I had the time, I'd hem the skirts
>>properly.

>Several of us have the same problem.  Fortunately it is correctable if you
>make your own skirts for historicals.

Carolyn, Cynthia, others,
It's so common there's a standard set of adjustments for the "dropped
waist" that will correct your patterns nicely.   Sway backs & dancer
butt are other common causes of "dropped waist".  I usually search for
another pair of pants. If I *must* have them, pick back the WB, and
put it where I want it.  Cant stand the messy bulky rolled "solution".

How do you tell if you need to take this into acct?  Tie a piece of
elastic 'round your  mostly unclothed waist. Wiggle around ... hip
circles, shimmies whatever, just keep your hands off waist & elastic. 
Turn sideways in the mirror. If the front is lower: dropped waist.  If
not, there are other pages in the pattern fitting books to refer to.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 17:22:15 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waists, waists, waists
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>put it where I want it.  Cant stand the messy bulky rolled "solution".

I only do that for commercially produced skirts, like the kind with an 
elasticized waistband that would be a pain to remodel, and that I only wear 
to job interviews anyway.  My commercially produced trousers fit fine, and 
so do my self-made historical costume skirts.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Sorry it's been awhile since I commented last, but I've been a bit busy 
this week and only caught up today.

To everyone with their suggestions for little boy suspenders, I thank you 
all. I will be checking many of them out soon.

Kimiko

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Juana la Loca
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At 10:50 AM 6/28/2005, you wrote:
>Henry's complaint that "Am I not a man like
>other men?" was a veiled statement that other Popes had annuled royal
>marriages or engagements when a male heir was needed(he fathered and
>recognized his son Henry Fitzroy)by Elizabeth Blount).


It is also interesting to note that when Henry's older sister Margaret, 
Dowager Queen of Scotland, was in the process of annulling her marriage to 
her second husband Archibald Douglas, Earl of Angus, that Henry and 
Catherine both tried very hard to dissuade her from doing so. This was 
years before Anne came into the picture. But when it came to Henry's time 
to request an annulment, he was upset that Margaret had succeeded in an 
annulment, but because of politics in Europe and with the Pope, he couldn't 
get his request granted.

More info on Margaret (and Mary Tudor Brandon), read _The Rose and the 
Thorn: The lives of Mary and Margaret Tudor_ by Nancy Lenz Harvey. It is 
very informative.

fwiw,

Kimiko


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At 03:29 PM 6/28/2005, you wrote:
>Due to politics of the time and the mysterious deaths of nobility I would
>say keeping on your toes 24/7 can drive you a bit crazy. Look at James of
>Scotland.


Which James of Scotland?

Kimiko


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>From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1135788103.a6aad1@thibault.org>
>Possibly -- although this is only a problem for me for things that end
>at the waistband.  A garment that hangs from the shoulders, even if
>belted, evens out by the time it gets to the hem, what with bust and
>butt sort of counter-balancing.
>
>Are you thinking of everyday wear, or something more frivolous?  Because
>a slight train (a few inches) makes a graceful line without getting in
>the way very much.  But one wouldn't do that for an average garment, I
>think.

I'll have to take your word for it, since in the case of my skirts, my bust 
and butt don't counterbalance anything :)

At this point I'm trying to figure out where I saw the pictures I'm thinking 
of and drawing a blank.  Sorry, my bad - I withdraw the thought until I can 
find the darned things.

Marc


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Is anyone else watching the series "Young Blades" on PAX network?
http://www.paxtv.com/shows/yngblad/
It's sort of a "Three Musketeers, the next generation" sort of thing (with 
a little "Magnificent 7" thrown in), supposedly set in the 17th 
Century.  It has an odd mix of historical and modern, nothing is terribly 
accurate, but it's fun and some of the outfits are really impressive, even 
if not period-accurate.  Not to mention some pretty nifty eye-candy (of 
both genders).

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Juana la Loca
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 14:46:15 -0500
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The one who took over being King of England after Elizabeth I.

-----Original Message-----
Which James of Scotland?

Kimiko



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Subject: [h-cost] AD- Patterns for sale
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Patterns from my private stash.
Simplicity
7756 Size 10.12.14.
7756 Size 4.6.8
8715 Size 10.12.14
8249 Size 18W-24W
9966 Size 14.16.18.20
7761 Size XS.S.M.L.XL
8735 Size 4.6.8
9713 Size 16.18.20
8249 Size 26W-32W
9058 Size 14.16.18.20
9255 Size 14.16.18.20
8249 Size 26W-32W
9058 Size 6.8.10.12
8881 Size 6.8.10.12

Butterick
5655 Size 14.16.18
6294 OS


16 patterns total. Really do not want to separate so please try not
to ask. $90 includes shipping. Have been stored in a pattern drawer
so they are compact but are UNCUT.
Paypal only also will take CC or debit.

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Ahh, James VI and I.
(6th of Scotland, first of England)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2005 2:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Juana la Loca

The one who took over being King of England after Elizabeth I.

-----Original Message-----
Which James of Scotland?

Kimiko



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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for 1500s European clothing merchant
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Hi Folks,

Could you email me off list about this -- I recieved an email via my 
website and I don't know who to send this fellow to; it's out of my 
range of competence.

"I have been looking for quite some time for Quality Mens Clothing for 
The Late 1500's. I would like Upper Class/Noble English Clothing.  I'm a 
Big Guy 6'2" 225 lbs., 48 yrs.  I want to Quality, No Junk, Period 
Clothing."

He's in the upper Midwest of the USA.

If others are interested, I'd be happy to compile the answers and repost 
them to the list.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for 1500s European clothing merchant
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I would suggest Sykes Sutlering - they do wonerful stuff, and since the clothes are made in the owner's house - custom sizing could be done.

sykesutler@worldnet.att.net  attn: Raffaella Marr

NAYY -- just a good observer of their stuff.

Katheryne


----- Original Message -----
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1135962731.47898e@thibault.org>
 
> "I have been looking for quite some time for Quality Mens Clothing 
> for The Late 1500's. I would like Upper Class/Noble English Clothing.  
> I'm a Big Guy 6'2" 225 lbs., 48 yrs.  I want to Quality, No Junk, Period 
> Clothing."
> 
> If others are interested, I'd be happy to compile the answers and 
> repost 
> them to the list. 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Looking for 1500s European clothing merchant
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Top of the line that I have seen would be "Desert Torch tailoring."(also
Pavilions)
Located in Arizona- website seems to be down from where I am accessing from,
you may have better luck.

www.deserttorch.com

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of purplkat@optonline.net
Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 3:20 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for 1500s European clothing merchant

I would suggest Sykes Sutlering - they do wonerful stuff, and since the
clothes are made in the owner's house - custom sizing could be done.

sykesutler@worldnet.att.net  attn: Raffaella Marr

NAYY -- just a good observer of their stuff.

Katheryne


----- Original Message -----
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1135962731.47898e@thibault.org>
 
> "I have been looking for quite some time for Quality Mens Clothing 
> for The Late 1500's. I would like Upper Class/Noble English Clothing.  
> I'm a Big Guy 6'2" 225 lbs., 48 yrs.  I want to Quality, No Junk, Period 
> Clothing."
> 
> If others are interested, I'd be happy to compile the answers and 
> repost 
> them to the list. 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
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I loved It its a miniseries I was told by a friend that they are trying to do the same thing with this as they did with Roar a few years ago staring Heath ledger if it goes it may be a ongoing series.. we will see... I liked the garb it looked comfy! 
 
However leads me to a question! how does one keep veils on when nothing ever stays I have tried everything this side of glue and staples to keep veils on  even the folding method. any suggestions???? 
 
thanks 
 
Satine 


		
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I never have any trouble with mine, but then I cheat.  I tack them to headbands - the kind that go around your hair Alice in Wonderland style.  I use white ones because my hair is grey so they don't show even with sheer veils.  Don't try to match the veil in color - match your hair.  There may be a little slipping, but not enough to be a problem and I haven't lost a veil yet.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 07:13:56 -0700 (PDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 433

I loved It its a miniseries I was told by a friend that they are trying to do the same thing with this as they did with Roar a few years ago staring Heath ledger if it goes it may be a ongoing series.. we will see... I liked the garb it looked comfy! 
 
However leads me to a question! how does one keep veils on when nothing ever stays I have tried everything this side of glue and staples to keep veils on  even the folding method. any suggestions???? 
 
thanks 
 
Satine 


		
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Satine wrote:
> However leads me to a question! how does one keep veils on when nothing 
> ever stays I have tried everything this side of glue and staples to keep 
> veils on  even the folding method. any suggestions????

Pay attention to the rear views this week- last episode, when most of the 
women turned around, you could clearly see one or two fairly ornate pins 
holding the veils to the hair.
               -Helen/Aidan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric
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The thing about 'snug-fitting' sleepwear for children has the rationale that the problem with traditional 'loose' nightgowns or PJs was that their excess fabric was much more likely to fall into the flame from a fire, or onto the heating element of those old bar heaters, than PJs with knit bands at the wrists and ankles, or nightgowns that were pretty much just a close fitting tube with sleeves.

Many years ago ( 1985-86-ish ) there was a poster up on the wall of the Red-Cross Tea Room under the Brisbane City Hall ( it had a cloakroom where you could leave luggage while going about whatever business you had in town, toilets, shower, and mothers' room ) which had simple but effective illustrations of the 'good' styles, the 'bad' styles, and *why* the 'bad' styles where dangerous. ( I think there was a reasonably graphic depiction of small girl with her nightgown catching on fire from the skirt falling into a heater. ) It also recommended using sleepwear made from fire-retardant fabrics.

In Australia, I think it has become less of an issue - at least, I haven't seen the topic addressed in sundry parent-child-oriented publications - as that particular style of heater was withdrawn from the market as being too dangerous, it was around that time that fan heaters and oil-filled heaters became the only types which you could buy. I also suspect that the majority of childrens sleepwear available in the shops is in the recommended styles, but I could be wrong about that, not having had to buy kiddies sleepwear. ( No kids yet! ;-) )

My 2 cents.

Joannah.   

--- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

From: AnnBWass@aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 18:17:59 EDT
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric

 
In a message dated 6/21/2005 4:55:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kimiko@kimiko1.com writes:

I have  several ready-made cotton children's pjs, and they are not flame 
retardant  (and are so marked). 


yes, I've noticed in reading labels on ready-made sleepwear that evidently  
the legislation was changed to allow knit cotton fabrics for children's  
sleepwear, as long as they are "snug fitting."  Don't know if that was a  result of 
pressure from manufacturers, or consumers, or something else--I've  been out 
of touch with all those issues for about 10 years now.
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 09:44:56 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] veils
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Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com> wrote:
>However leads me to a question! how does one keep veils on when 
>nothing ever stays I have tried everything this side of glue and 
>staples to keep veils on  even the folding method. any 
>suggestions????

Ah, another person with slippery hair! :)

Briefly, what you need is some sort of non-moving structure 
underneath the veil that you can pin it to. Two cloth bands will 
provide this. One goes under your chin and up to fasten on top of 
your head. The other goes around your forehead and fastens at the 
back of your head. Pin these two together where they cross. You can 
now pin your veil to these two bands and I guarantee you it will not 
go _anywhere_! The vertical band keeps the horizontal band from 
sliding backward or upward.

These bands should be snug, but they don't need to be tight. Some 
people just use the horizontal band, but that doesn't work for me -- 
I have to make it so tight that it gives me a headache. Using both 
bands is much more comfortable.

Instead of the chin band, you can also use a wimple -- a rectangle of 
cloth, with one edge under your chin and pinned at the top of your 
head, and the other edge hanging loose. Pull the loose bottom corners 
around to the back of your head and pin them together (I also usually 
pin them together about halfway down the back of my head).

The wimple is every woman's friend after she turns 40: it's 
flattering to most faces, and if you wear one, nobody can tell how 
many chins you have! :))
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Mon, 4 Jul 2005, Chris Laning wrote:

> Instead of the chin band, you can also use a wimple -- a rectangle of
> cloth, with one edge under your chin and pinned at the top of your
> head, and the other edge hanging loose. Pull the loose bottom corners
> around to the back of your head and pin them together (I also usually
> pin them together about halfway down the back of my head).

Another useful trick is to take a square or circle, and fold it on the
diagonal. Put the center of the folded edge under your chin, and wrap the
sides up to the top of your head and pin the folded corners together
there, so that the folded edge frames your face. Pull the loose sides to
the back and pin once or twice along the back of the head, as you describe
above The folded edge will be elastic and very comfortable, staying snug
while allowing you to move your jaw. Drop a veil over the top and pin here
and there as needed. Do all this in linen, which is a little "sticky"
anyway, and it will never slip.

> The wimple is every woman's friend after she turns 40: it's flattering
> to most faces, and if you wear one, nobody can tell how many chins you
> have! :))

I love wimples for exactly this reason, but I generally do not wear one
for my lectures, because people have to clearly see my bust and cleavage
in the fitted dress for demonstration purposes. I should try to find some
examples of chin-bands consistent with late 14th c. high fashion, which
would serve the same purpose without concealing the cleavage. I do have
images of clearly older women in fitted dresses, but they mostly are
bare-necked, alas -- I even point out the sagging chins in one of my
slides to show that older women wore the fitted fashion!

--Robin

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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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I have someone that has requested me to interpret this
painting into real costume:

http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg

Portrait of a Soldier
1555-59
Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm
Museo del Prado, Madrid

I lack practical experience with men's wear in
general, let alone this period. This is a skin-out
project, so I need to know just what I am committing
to here. I see the following layers:
*underwear
*shirt
*netherstocks
*jerkin
*possibly waistcoat, but could be attached sleeves
*Venetians/Breeches

Sound about right? Anyone have any clues where to
start finding reference materials for construction?

Thanks so much, this will be a major project once I
get underway - just trying to design the embossing on
that velvet will be a serious challenge.

Kathy

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
An inordinate passion for pleasure is the secret of remaining young.
-Oscar Wilde

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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At 08:29 PM 7/4/2005, you wrote:
>I have someone that has requested me to interpret this
>painting into real costume:
>
>http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg
>
>Portrait of a Soldier
>1555-59
>Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm
>Museo del Prado, Madrid
>
>I lack practical experience with men's wear in
>general, let alone this period. This is a skin-out
>project, so I need to know just what I am committing
>to here. I see the following layers:
>*underwear
>*shirt
>*netherstocks
>*jerkin
>*possibly waistcoat, but could be attached sleeves
>*Venetians/Breeches
>
>Sound about right? Anyone have any clues where to
>start finding reference materials for construction?
>
>Thanks so much, this will be a major project once I
>get underway - just trying to design the embossing on
>that velvet will be a serious challenge.
>
>Kathy
>
>It's never too late to be who you might have been.
>-George Eliot
>An inordinate passion for pleasure is the secret of remaining young.
>-Oscar Wilde

I'm not certain what you mean by "embossing".  All the fabric looks 
plain-surfaced on my monitor.

The sleeves (and in this case the Venetians, too) look to my eyes 
like alternating strips of plain and box-pleated fabric. I once made 
a pair of sleeves that were described in the written material as 
"paned", but when I studied the portrait in great detail, I concluded 
that the "paned" strips were actually box-pleated.  When I tried 
box-pleating alternate strips instead of making panes, the sleeves 
were easy to wear and looked very much like the portrait, right down 
to the way the artist showed the fabric at the elbows.  It is a lot 
less work than finishing off innumerable small panes (plus, you don't 
need to have any fancy lining to show between the panes).

You might want to look into the Gentleman's Wardrobe pattern set from 
Margo's Historic Patterns (www.margospatterns.com).

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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Quoting Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>:

> At 08:29 PM 7/4/2005, you wrote:
>> I have someone that has requested me to interpret this
>> painting into real costume:
>>
>> http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg
>>
>
> I'm not certain what you mean by "embossing".  All the fabric looks
> plain-surfaced on my monitor.
>
> The sleeves (and in this case the Venetians, too) look to my eyes
> like alternating strips of plain and box-pleated fabric.

*snippage*

I suspect that what they're talking about is the horizontal strips separating
the "box-pleated" panes.  If you look at those, you may be able to see that
there appears to be some sort of tracery pattern on them -- perhaps 
embroidery.
This image is too small to really tell -- and I"m not finding a better one
on the web.  :-(

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Thanks to everyone for the great Ideas for Veils. I am new to the is type of costume and Have recently discovered a sligtly damp veil in this heat (yes I am a heat wimp!)  is so much cooler! I will play with both ideas and give an update after a few events!!!!

I will need to tape it tonight. Husband has bosses coming over for a BBQ.. I will look! thanks 

S.

 


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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To me, the sleeves look like they are a velvet or fine wool that has been
slashed, then trim applied as horizontal bands separating the slashed
sections. To get them to stand out, you cut the 'fashion fabric' slightly
longer than the lining and then tack the horizontal bands to the lining
and let the extra fabric naturally created the fullness. 

Unless you are planning to make linen under drawers (which were worn but
not universally) then the long tails of the shirt function as underwear.
The bottom of the shirt should fall well below the hips and could fall as
low as just above the knee. 

There's a doublet under the jerkin made of the red fabric, so that's two
'outer' layers for the torso. The jerkin has the long, vertical slashes
that were frequently found in Italian fashions. Hope you get really good
at the slashes with horizontal bands because from what I can see, the
doublet is made in the same way as the sleeves and trunkhose so you will
be doing alot of it!

Oh, and don't forget the stuffed codpiece.......



Karen
Seamstrix

On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 23:29:31 -0400 (EDT) Kathy Page
<caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca> writes:
> I have someone that has requested me to interpret this
> painting into real costume:
> 
> http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg
> 
> Portrait of a Soldier
> 1555-59
> Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm
> Museo del Prado, Madrid
> 
> I lack practical experience with men's wear in
> general, let alone this period. This is a skin-out
> project, so I need to know just what I am committing
> to here. I see the following layers:
> *underwear
> *shirt
> *netherstocks
> *jerkin
> *possibly waistcoat, but could be attached sleeves
> *Venetians/Breeches
> 
> Sound about right? Anyone have any clues where to
> start finding reference materials for construction?
> 
> Thanks so much, this will be a major project once I
> get underway - just trying to design the embossing on
> that velvet will be a serious challenge.
> 
> Kathy
> 
> It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> An inordinate passion for pleasure is the secret of remaining young.
> -Oscar Wilde
> 
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I wonder if that red material was a very find brushed or sueded leather. 
Leather breeches and jerkins were not unusual and of the few extant 
examples I've seen some were buttery soft and had a slight nap. That 
would certainly make the slashes easier--wouldn't have to finish any edges.

Of course, reproducing the bands would then be a problem. If they are 
fabric over leather that might be hard to match color-wise and might 
look odd, and if they are tooled leather that would be really difficult. 
Unless it's embroidered leather. Can someone refresh my 
memory--embroidery on soft leather--examples?

- Hope

> <>
> Kathy Page writes:
>
> http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg
>
> Thanks so much, this will be a major project once I
> get underway - just trying to design the embossing on
> that velvet will be a serious challenge.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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I can think of lots of gloves and a few shoes that were leather with gold 
or polychrome embroidery.  Bridgette / Mari

>  Can someone refresh my memory--embroidery on soft leather--examples?

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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Subject: [h-cost] looking for early 16thC allegorical images
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I'm looking for something a little odd: allegorical styles from c1500-c1525, from France/Flanders/Netherlands/Germany/Poland/Hungary & Bohemia, etc... just about anywhere within Europe except England, Spain, and Italy.  I'm not looking for the classical drapery sort of allegorical garments, nor the ones that are so similar to what's normally worn that you have to check every single detail to figure out what exactly is out of the norm.  

A good example of what I am looking for is this bit of saints-wear, by Holbein Jr:
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi03977f11b.jpg (small)
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi03977f11a.jpg (same thing, just larger)
which is clearly fanciful and allegorical, but bears a passing resemblance to something that could have been worn by a real person.

Anyone seen anything along these lines?  Any suggestions for artists who did a whole lot of allegorical works, but didn't use drapery styles?  I've gotten so much in the (bad) habit of turning a blind eye to what's obviously, flat-out allegorical that I haven't even noticed which of my favorite artists did a lot of the kind of thing I'm looking for!  Holbein Jr and Sr both did a good bit of it, as did Durer, but that's about as far as I've gotten. 

-E House
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for early 16thC allegorical images
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E House wrote:
I'm looking for something a little odd: allegorical styles from c1500-c1525, 
from France/Flanders/Netherlands/Germany/Poland/Hungary & Bohemia, etc... 
just about anywhere within Europe except England, Spain, and Italy.  I'm not 
looking for the classical drapery sort of allegorical garments, nor the ones 
that are so similar to what's normally worn that you have to check every 
single detail to figure out what exactly is out of the norm.



Try the Flemish artists like Quentin Massys and Marinus van Reymerswaele. 
Their works include paintings of saints and some moral allegories.
                 -Helen/Aidan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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Historical Costume in Detail has a doublet from about 1625-1630 that is 
leather with embroidery.

Melusine


>
> I can think of lots of gloves and a few shoes that were leather with gold 
> or polychrome embroidery.  Bridgette / Mari
>
>>  Can someone refresh my memory--embroidery on soft leather--examples?
>
> Mari Stewart
> Webmaster
> College of Veterinary Medicine
> Cornell University
>
>
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Jerusha wrote:

> I suspect that what they're talking about is the horizontal strips separating
> the "box-pleated" panes.  If you look at those, you may be able to see that
> there appears to be some sort of tracery pattern on them -- perhaps
> embroidery.
> This image is too small to really tell -- and I"m not finding a better one
> on the web.  :-(

On my screen, the horizontal strips show up very well. They look more like a
jaquard weave to me. That might not be the right term. What I am trying to
say is a geometric pattern woven into threads of the same color. That's how
I would recreate it, not as embroidery or embossing. But a very gorgeous
outfit, however you interpret it!

Gail Finke

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 14:51:30 -0500
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The red material is either red suede leather or velvet. The sleeves could be
box pleated but the left forearm and the right cuff make me lean towards
slashes and that the bands are non - applied bands but of the same sleeve
material with embroidery to stop the slashes. Basically, one solid sleeve
with alternating slashes and bands.  So the suede route might be easier and
you could possibly embossed instead of embroider.
Note that the sleeve cuffs have small cloth covers buttons.
Note that the codpiece uses the "embroidered" band design only, no slashes.
The black jerkin looks to be velvet. The garment seems to be a bit odd on
the right shoulder region so I not sure about the cut there.
I am not sure what he has in his hand but it isn't gloves.
Though I don't think there is underwear underneath this, you might want to
make him a set of linen boxers for his own modern mind comfort. (unless he's
use to not wearing any underwear.) From my understanding the pants and
codpiece are what help the special package from bouncing around to much.
Long shirt..
Actually, Margo Anderson has a good pattern for Men that may cut your
trouble in half
http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm
Just scroll down to the men's pattern, go to the site for that pattern.

Good luck on your challenge.


De

-----Original Message-----
I have someone that has requested me to interpret this
painting into real costume:

http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg

Portrait of a Soldier
1555-59
Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm
Museo del Prado, Madrid
(snip)
Kathy



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Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 21:58:36 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for early 16thC allegorical images
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Not sure about specific artists, but check out crucifixion scenes and 
look for Mary Magdalene.  She is very often distinguished from the other 
women by wearing something outlandish, particularly in sleeves or 
headgear.

Jean

E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote
>I'm looking for something a little odd: allegorical styles from 
>c1500-c1525, from France/Flanders/Netherlands/Germany/Poland/Hungary & 
>Bohemia, etc... just about anywhere within Europe except England, 
>Spain, and Italy.  I'm not looking for the classical drapery sort of 
>allegorical garments, nor the ones that are so similar to what's 
>normally worn that you have to check every single detail to figure out 
>what exactly is out of the norm.
>
>A good example of what I am looking for is this bit of saints-wear, by 
>Holbein Jr:
>http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi03977f11b.jpg (small)
>http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi03977f11a.jpg (same thing, just larger)
>which is clearly fanciful and allegorical, but bears a passing 
>resemblance to something that could have been worn by a real person.
>
>Anyone seen anything along these lines?  Any suggestions for artists 
>who did a whole lot of allegorical works, but didn't use drapery 
>styles? I've gotten so much in the (bad) habit of turning a blind eye 
>to what's obviously, flat-out allegorical that I haven't even noticed 
>which of my favorite artists did a lot of the kind of thing I'm looking 
>for!  Holbein Jr and Sr both did a good bit of it, as did Durer, but 
>that's about as far as I've gotten.
>
>-E House
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 09:26:27 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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Kathy Page wrote:

>http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg
>
>Portrait of a Soldier
>1555-59
>Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm
>Museo del Prado, Madrid
>
>I lack practical experience with men's wear in
>general, let alone this period. This is a skin-out
>project, so I need to know just what I am committing
>to here. I see the following layers:
>*underwear
>*shirt
>*netherstocks
>*jerkin
>*possibly waistcoat, but could be attached sleeves
>*Venetians/Breeches
>
>Sound about right? Anyone have any clues where to
>start finding reference materials for construction?
>  
>

Mostly.  I'd have to guess that he's wearing a black jerkin over a red 
doublet.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Maybe you could find a well-illustrated book with a general overview of Flemish saints or something? I just picked up a pretty nice little book about angels from Taschen. I'm making some Christmas angel dolls for my craft booth and I needed inspiration for the costumes. It gave a pretty good overview of lots of artists in different time periods, which gives me a basis to do more research.
 
Tea Rose
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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otsisto wrote:

>Though I don't think there is underwear underneath this, you might want to
>make him a set of linen boxers for his own modern mind comfort. (unless he's
>use to not wearing any underwear.) From my understanding the pants and
>codpiece are what help the special package from bouncing around to much.
>  
>
Nope.  White linen drawers would have been the norm. 

(Can you imagine the condition of a pair of venetians made of 
non-washable fabric after a few wearings without underpants?  Ugh!!)

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: [h-cost] Cotton velvet
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By the way, Fabric.com has eight earthtone-type shades of cotton velvet right now for $10.65 a yard, if anyone's interested.
 
Tara
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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Oh that is so good to know! I have seen the results of leather loinclothes
that haven't been cleaned and their not a pretty sight. EEww

De

-----Original Message-----
Nope.  White linen drawers would have been the norm.

(Can you imagine the condition of a pair of venetians made of
non-washable fabric after a few wearings without underpants?  Ugh!!)

--
Adele de Maisieres


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: looking for early 16thC allegorical images
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Jean wrote:

> Not sure about specific artists, but check out crucifixion scenes and
> look for Mary Magdalene. She is very often distinguished from the
> other women by wearing something outlandish, particularly in sleeves
> or headgear.

Tea rose wrote:

> Maybe you could find a well-illustrated book with a general overview
> of Flemish saints or something? I just picked up a pretty nice little
> book about angels from Taschen.

I'm guessing these are indeed the sort of thing E was looking for, but
just in case, it's worth making a clarification: Not all non-realistic
costumes are allegorical. Allegory is a particular kind of non-literal
portrayal (the presentation of a quality or concept via symbols) -- think
of images of the virtues or Fate or the Church. The use of attributes to
identify saints is iconographical, not allegorical. The use of "foreign"
or "historic" elements to mark characters in a story is a visual means of
showing distance in place or time. You can have allegorical elements
working in the same figure as iconography or other visual symbolism, but
they're not all the same thing.

So: Mary Magdalen is not an allegorical figure; she's
historical/religious/biblical. Her costume may include specific accepted
attributes for identification (e.g. the ointment jar), symbols to put her
in a time/place context (foreign headdress, Biblical sandals), and/or
elements to indicate her personal characteristics (sexy or expensive
clothing to indicate her background as a courtesan, undone hair to
indicate grief, a cross or rosary to indicate piety, etc.). None of those
happen to be allegorical in the technical sense.

Costumer's shorthand, though, tends to call all of these things
"allegorical," because they are all unreliable for a realistic
interpretation. And I think we all understand that, but I figured it was
worth pointing out that not all scholars outside of costume would
understand the term in this way. So if E wants to ask an art historian for
examples of "allegorical art," she'll get only a subset of what she's
probably looking for. And if she describes certain uses as allegorical,
some people will misunderstand what she is saying.

This is something I have been sloppy about in the past, and I should have
known better, since my original exposure to this terminology was through
art history and literary criticism, not costume! I tend to be much more
careful when talking with other scholars than when I'm talking with
costumers who I'm certain are more interested in the basic distinction of
real/not-real, not "why is it not real."

E, if you're looking for the migration of certain costume elements from
real life to symbolic use, or the other way around, you might do well to
distinguish the various types of symbolic use, e.g. you may find the
pattern in some forms of painting but not others. To the medieval artist,
there was as much difference between an historical treatment and an
allegorical one as there was between a either of those and a portrait. And
as much overlap!

--Robin

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: looking for early 16thC allegorical images
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I was definitely using 'allegorical' as shorthand, since it's the most 
common term used on this list for the type of thing I'm seeking.  I'm 
looking for images of saints, foreigners, religious figures, historical 
figures, allegorical figures, and even royalty depicted in clothing that is, 
for one reason or another, not what would have been worn by any actual human 
being of that time period.  I'm also looking for fashions that are odd 
enough that it would take a lot of proof to call them realistic.  But that 
takes a lot longer to say. =}  I do ask in different terms on a list like 
this than I would ask in, say, a museum.  However, it is certainly good to 
make that distinction--especially since I'm looking for as large a subset as 
possible!

-E House

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I just got my weekly online ad from Hancock's Fabric - normally I just 
ignore them, but this looks like it might have interest for those who do 
needlework at events:

<http://www.hancockfabrics.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1229&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=1218&iSubCat=1229&page=1>

It's a collection of "heirloom" looking sewing tools, including tape 
measure, seam ripper, needle case, etc.  that comes in both silver and gold 
finishes.

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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At 09:37 PM 7/5/2005, you wrote:
>I just got my weekly online ad from Hancock's Fabric - normally I 
>just ignore them, but this looks like it might have interest for 
>those who do needlework at events:
>
><http://www.hancockfabrics.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1229&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=1218&iSubCat=1229&page=1>
>
>It's a collection of "heirloom" looking sewing tools, including tape 
>measure, seam ripper, needle case, etc.  that comes in both silver 
>and gold finishes.
>
>Sandy

Some of these would be lovely for 19th century events (especially for 
1870s or later).

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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Hi Kathy,

It sounds like your listing of garments is about right, although I call a 
waistcoat a doublet. I am not as familiar with the Italian styles, but I 
have done a few men's 16th c. garments in the past few years, English and 
German (who so loved those cuttes and slashes). You may get more info on 
the slashing and cuttes from those who do German fashions. There is a group 
on yahoogroups, and the people there are very helpful (and some were on 
here, but not sure if they still are).

Some observations, fwiw. The fabric to me appears to be a sueded leather, 
velvet or even a fulled tight weave yet fuzzy looking wool (similar to 
today's heavy coat wool). My reasoning is that on the upper thigh, it 
appears more to be a reversed embossing where the pile has flattened along 
the decorative edges and is shiny there while the design and main material 
is matte in appearance. I don't know if they could do a reversed emboss 
back then, so that's just speculation on my part.

If the fabric is leather or a tight, fulled wool, cuttes are easily done 
with no fraying of the edges.

If the fabric is velvet, then the edges might not be finished. Many 
articles of pinked and slashed garments in Janet Arnold's Patterns of 
Fashion book shows obvious fraying. What can minimize fraying is cutting on 
the bias, or glueing the edges if you really want (like Fraycheck, although 
that *will* change the look of the fabric). It may be that the sleeves and 
breeches were created on the bias to allow the slits to be vertical, yet 
still minimize the fraying, and allow for a comfortable, yet relatively 
tight fit, and allow for good movement, something a soldier would want.

The jerkin is obviously slashed to show the doublet underneath. There may 
be a third slash that cannot be seen because of the angle of the model. 
However, considering the right slash (from the viewer) is showing the 
buttons of the doublet, I am inclined to think there is a third slash 
further right showing off more of the cut work of the doublet underneath. 
You can sew the lining to the fashion fabric of the jerkin to prevent any 
fraying, or sew them in sections for a similar effect.

I am wondering what the bump on the side of the codpiece really is. It 
breaks the line of the jerkin's edge. I also wonder what the shiny thing 
above the codpiece is as well.

On the small slashes of the sleeves and breeches, from experience I know 
that when a garment area is cut in that manner, it will naturally open up a 
bit more, giving the look of being bigger than the bands that aren't cut. 
It is my suggestion to have one piece of material, and alternate between 
cut bands and uncut fabric, instead of sewing larger cut bands onto uncut 
bands. However, the best thing is to experiment with this yourself, and see 
what you think is best.

And definitely stabilize the collar area of the jerkin, padstitching the 
foundation fabrics to the main fabric. I did that for my husband's doublet, 
and it really gets that collar to stay upright and proper looking.

Good luck, and keep us informed on your progress. I would love to see your 
final garments.

Kimiko


At 08:29 PM 7/4/2005, you wrote:
>I have someone that has requested me to interpret this
>painting into real costume:
>
>http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg
>
>Portrait of a Soldier
><snip for space>>
>Kathy



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [h-cos } pants........ what a "waist"
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Heavens, yes! I made a simple skirt, with an elastisized waist in a casing, for a Magenta costume, for the same young friend who only wore hipster jeans - and she kept pulling the skirt down on her hips! She politely listened when I adjusted the skirt back to where it belonged, and then promptly pulled it back down again. <sigh>
 
At least she never tried to do that with the loaner skirt she had for her 17thC costume. :-) Although she would have been tripping over the hem all the time if she did that.

Joannah. 

--- Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:

<snip>
Then again, I have had the same discussion with my two teen-age
daughters about where their waists are. It's pitiful to try to fit
anything with a hoop skirt on them because they insist that the waist
of the skirt goes down where their jean tops are. And they're angry at
me because I don't know my own anatomy! I ask, "Does it fit better
here and does it feel better here?" "Yeah." "And that's where it
belongs, right near your belly button." "But that's not where my waist
is." I've given up the semantic argument and tell them that These
Particular Clothes fit HERE not where they wear their jeans. That
sometimes ends argument for the time.
LynnD


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Belt clasp for the sword belt.

-----Original Message-----
(snip)
 I also wonder what the shiny thing 
above the codpiece is as well.



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From: ladysarafina@att.net (Sarafina Sinclair)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Greetings,

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's elizabethan doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes (for a large busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with uncontrollable gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all eyes and laced it up.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Sarafina
--
The Honourable Lady Sarafina Sinclair, CE 
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net 
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
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Sarafina Sinclair wrote:

>Greetings,
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's elizabethan doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes (for a large busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with uncontrollable gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all eyes and laced it up.
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated!
>
>  
>

Depends... if the doublet's being worn over bodies or a kirtle-bodies 
(as it should), it should only be a matter of using sufficient hooks and 
eyes.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
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At 08:28 PM 7/6/2005, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's elizabethan 
>doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes (for a large 
>busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with uncontrollable gaps 
>and I eventually gave up and just put on all eyes and laced it up.
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Sarafina
>--
>The Honourable Lady Sarafina Sinclair, CE
>http://ladysarafina.home.att.net


Hello Sarafina,

The best suggestion I have is to place the hooks where they are just 
peeking over the one edge, and then place the eyes further in from the edge 
(and further in then you think at first glance). Then to alternate between 
the hooks and eyes, if you are sewing each set individually (vs. using hook 
& eye tape).

hth,

Kimiko


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From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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And setting the hooks and eyes into the seam/between the lining and
outer layer of fabric, so only a bit of the hook or eye shows.  

alex

--- Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:

> Sarafina Sinclair wrote:
> 
> >Greetings,
> >
> >Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's
> elizabethan doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes
> (for a large busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with
> uncontrollable gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all eyes
> and laced it up.
> >
> >Any help is greatly appreciated!
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> Depends... if the doublet's being worn over bodies or a kirtle-bodies
> 
> (as it should), it should only be a matter of using sufficient hooks
> and 
> eyes.
> 
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres
> 
> -----------------------------
> Quot homines, tot sententiae.
> ----------------------------- 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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In one word, boning.
Not only good boning in the corset she's surely wearing underneath, but
also additional boning in the doublet, especially along the edges where 
you're putting the fasteners.
Also, ensuring the doublet fits properly, and making it out of fabrics 
that aren't flimsy will help.
I don't wear 'bethans much any more, having largely gone to an earlier 
time period for my SCA stuff, but I'm extremely large-busted, and as 
long as the top was fitted and boned, and of sufficient strength, I 
never had a gaposis problem.
--sue
p.s.  Putting the hooks and eyes relatively close together helps as 
well.  I tended to use the pre-made hook-and-eye tape when I could get 
away with it. ;o)

Sarafina Sinclair wrote:

> Greetings,
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's elizabethan
> doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes (for a large
> busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with uncontrollable
> gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all eyes and laced it
> up.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul  7 01:06:26 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
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Set the hooks slightly back from the edge, and have the eye  slightly out 
from the opposing edge, with a strip of the fashion  fabric protruding about an 
inch or so behind them as an underlap. Use lots of  them.
 
If the front is curved [as is the cut in Janet Arnold], it helps to run a  
line of running stitches at the bulge of the curve and SLIGHTLY ease  in the 
outside edge. You can do this right on the fold if self faced.....so it  won't 
show. Press it on a ham. This is particularly effective if you have  an overlap 
or underlap...like with buttons, but will help with edge to edge  closings 
too. 
 
The ease thingie is good on 18 century men's coats with curved CFs  
too....even if the don't close at all.
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At 08:28 PM 7/6/2005, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's 
>elizabethan doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes 
>(for a large busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with 
>uncontrollable gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all 
>eyes and laced it up.
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Sarafina
>--
>The Honourable Lady Sarafina Sinclair, CE
>http://ladysarafina.home.att.net

My doublet closes with hooks and eyes.  The hooks and eyes need to be 
no more than about an inch apart and placed so that the front edges 
of the doublet meet; any farther apart and they leave gaps.  Also, 
the doublet should not be too tightly fitted; leave a little bit of 
ease.  The hooks and eyes should not be straining to hold the doublet closed.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net  

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Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 05:48:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
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Boning down both edges helps.  Put the hooks and eyes about an inch apart (yep, it's a real bother, but closer is better) AND add a modesty panel along one side.  It will make you feel more secure and will hide any little gaps that happen from time to time no matter how well made and how well fitted the doublet is.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- ladysarafina@att.net (Sarafina Sinclair) wrote:

From: ladysarafina@att.net (Sarafina Sinclair)
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 03:28:44 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets

Greetings,

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's elizabethan doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes (for a large busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with uncontrollable gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all eyes and laced it up.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Sarafina
--
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http://ladysarafina.home.att.net 
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Subject: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
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Do any of our list members live in London? If so, has anyone heard from them 
and are they alright?

I've spent the last half hour watching the morning news and am concerned.

kate 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
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I've heard from Teddy and he's okay. He was at work by the time the
explosions happened. He will probably be stuck staying at a friend's
house this evening as the Tube service from where he works (north and
west in London) to where he lives (Wimbledon, far south of London) is
pretty much nonfunctional.



Karen
Seamstrix



On Thu, 7 Jul 2005 08:58:52 -0400 "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
writes:
> Do any of our list members live in London? If so, has anyone heard 
> from them 
> and are they alright?
> 
> I've spent the last half hour watching the morning news and am 
> concerned.
> 
> kate 
> 
> 
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> 
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From: ladysarafina@att.net (Sarafina Sinclair)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 13:20:51 +0000
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Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

I think my problem was the spacing on the hooks and eyes. I need to move them closer together and change where they sit on the edge. I do wear a proper corset and all the other stuff that goes under the doublet and it fits quite well. I guess with lacing you can get away with the eyes being farther apart. It already has 28 sets of eyes and I will probably have to add in half again as many. I was hoping to not have to remove all of them and start over, but that's life. The closer you get to the end of a project, the more work that pops up. I hope to wear this gown in a few weeks and I'll post pics on my website.

Thanks again!

Sarafina
--
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I was horrified to read in the news this morning that some damned 
terrorist group was setting off bombs in London today, and that there 
were casualties.  My thoughts and prayers are with anyone dealing with 
the effects of that violence....
Does anyone have a way of contacting Teddy, and seeing if he's okay? I 
know he's off-list at the moment....
--Sue from Montana

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I am rally glad to hear that our London Frieds are Okay! 
 
Satine

		
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Subject: [h-cost] London troubles
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 Dear List folks

London is indeed in trouble - so far four explosions,
timed to cause a lot of pain and injury. It will be
tomorrow before final death and casualty numbers are
known since explosions took place within tunnels on
the tube. Further controlled explosions have taken
place but they don't seem to think any more will take
place. Suzi - are you ok???  You and all the
otherlondoners are in our thoughts.

Susan, feeling guilty for complaining about the G8
protesters in her backyard all weekend...


		
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For those of us in the US that are awaiting delivery of NESAT 7, David 
Brown Books has notified me that

"NESAT 7 will be arriving here in early August.  It is already on its way 
to us in a surface shipment."

Beth 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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At 11:49 AM 7/6/2005, you wrote:
>Belt clasp for the sword belt.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>(snip)
>  I also wonder what the shiny thing
>above the codpiece is as well.


That's an interesting style for a belt clasp. Thanks.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 15:07:25 +0200
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Hi,
I hope also everybody we know are safe. It is really scary.
They also told Denmark to keep out of the war, so i guess Copenhagen could 
be hit next time, i use the subway every day to my work.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 2:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] folks in London ok??


> Do any of our list members live in London? If so, has anyone heard from 
> them and are they alright?
>
> I've spent the last half hour watching the morning news and am concerned.
>
> kate
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 


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Is Stevie Gamble still on list? I know she lives in London.
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 14:32:01 +0100
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My daughter Bella was caught up in it, had to leave the Tube first,
and then was on a bus when they were all evacuated because there was
supposed to be a bomb on it. She's very, very shaken up, but OK. Good
to hear that Teddy is fine
Stevie


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 1:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] folks in London ok??


> Do any of our list members live in London? If so, has anyone heard
from them
> and are they alright?
>
> I've spent the last half hour watching the morning news and am
concerned.
>
> kate
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul  7 12:20:34 2005
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 12:13:35 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: folks in London OK?
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    This is simply stunning news. I shouldn't be surprised. But I am.

    Look, from Canada, from the Stephens household (which has very deep 
roots in England) we send all our thoughts and wishes.

Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
historical sewing patterns; quality, hand-crafted cooperage; embroidery 
supplies, and more.
www.5rivers.org - info@5rivers.org
519-799-5577 

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Status: RO

This may be a bit off topic since it's not clothing...but it is historic.

A friend is trying to research how wall hangings were actually hung.  I suggested she get in touch with some English museums but then remembered there are many UK folks here.

How did they keep those gorgeous tapestries on the castle walls?

Thanks
Julie in San Diego

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Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 20:45:54 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
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At 08:28 PM 7/6/2005, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's 
>elizabethan doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes 
>(for a large busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with 
>uncontrollable gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all 
>eyes and laced it up.
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Sarafina
>--
>The Honourable Lady Sarafina Sinclair, CE
>http://ladysarafina.home.att.net

My doublet closes with hooks and eyes.  The hooks and eyes need to be 
no more than about an inch apart and placed so that the front edges 
of the doublet meet; any farther apart and they leave gaps.  Also, 
the doublet should not be too tightly fitted; leave a little bit of 
ease.  The hooks and eyes should not be straining to hold the doublet closed.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Glad to hear you are okay too, Stevie! 


Karen
Seamstrix

-- "STEPHANIE GAMBLE" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote:
My daughter Bella was caught up in it, had to leave the Tube first,
and then was on a bus when they were all evacuated because there was
supposed to be a bomb on it. She's very, very shaken up, but OK. Good
to hear that Teddy is fine
Stevie


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 1:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] folks in London ok??


> Do any of our list members live in London? If so, has anyone heard
from them
> and are they alright?
>
> I've spent the last half hour watching the morning news and am
concerned.
>
> kate
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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A couple of folks have mentioned hook-and-eye tape; and I've seen/heard 
several
folks say to alternate hooks and eyes on each side; and most folks say "close
together."

What about using hook and eye tape and then attaching additional "opposite"
fasteners (i.e., hooks on the eye-side, and eyes on the hook-side) between the
ones that are already on the tape?

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 20:23:17 +0200
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Hi Stephen, and all others in London 
Glad that you are ok and Bella two.
Give her a big hug from me.
It is terrible.................

Bjarne
 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "STEPHANIE GAMBLE" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??


> My daughter Bella was caught up in it, had to leave the Tube first,
> and then was on a bus when they were all evacuated because there was
> supposed to be a bomb on it. She's very, very shaken up, but OK. Good
> to hear that Teddy is fine
> Stevie
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 1:58 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
> 
> 
>> Do any of our list members live in London? If so, has anyone heard
> from them
>> and are they alright?
>>
>> I've spent the last half hour watching the morning news and am
> concerned.
>>
>> kate
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: london bombings
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British members:

I am so sorry to hear the news about the bombings. It's been on the
television and radio all day here. My heart goes out to all of you and your
countrymen.

Gail Finke in Cincinnati, Ohio
 

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From: Pam Dotson <dotsontwo@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Stevie, I'm so glad to hear from you!  You and Bella were the first thing I thought of when I heard about the bombs.  Continue to take care, and take care of Bella.
 
Pam Dotson

STEPHANIE GAMBLE <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote:
My daughter Bella was caught up in it, had to leave the Tube first,
and then was on a bus when they were all evacuated because there was
supposed to be a bomb on it. She's very, very shaken up, but OK. Good
to hear that Teddy is fine
Stevie


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Thank God she is all right!

Very glad our friends over there are ok.

Arlys

On Thu, 7 Jul 2005 14:32:01 +0100 "STEPHANIE GAMBLE"
<stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> writes:
> My daughter Bella was caught up in it, had to leave the Tube first,
> and then was on a bus when they were all evacuated because there was
> supposed to be a bomb on it. She's very, very shaken up, but OK. 
> Good
> to hear that Teddy is fine
> Stevie

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Hope everybody down south's ok.

Debbie.
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] NESAT 7
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 19:54:50 -0400
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On Thursday 07 July 2005 10:58 am, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> For those of us in the US that are awaiting delivery of NESAT 7, David
> Brown Books has notified me that
>
> "NESAT 7 will be arriving here in early August.  It is already on its way
> to us in a surface shipment."

Arrrgh.  August.  Thanks for the information, though; I was beginning to 
wonder.  They originally thought they might have it by the end of June.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
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Cc: Nicola  Boyd <nicolaboyd@hotmail.com>,
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        Reconstructing History <Patterns@reconstructinghistory.com>,
        Schaz  Stevens <sangomas@yahoo.co.uk>,
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Subject: [h-cost] Corset, for a giggle
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Had to share this - it gave me a major case of the giggles :-D

http://thedevilspanties.keenspace.com/d/20050623.html

Hope you enjoyed!

Joannah.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul  8 01:55:39 2005
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roar
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Regarding Roar - I have some friends and aquaintances who were extras on the series - one of these aquaintances was *obviously* pregnant during filming, and somebody involved in the production asked her, in terms of astonishment, " Did they have babies that way back then? " ( or words to that effect ). Doh! 

Joannah
 
--- Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com> wrote:
<snip>
I loved It its a miniseries I was told by a friend that they are trying to do the same thing with this as they did with Roar a few years ago staring Heath ledger if it goes it may be a ongoing series.. we will see... I liked the garb it looked comfy! 


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On behalf of my fellows, many thanks for all your messages of sympathy.
They are much appreciated.

Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:
> Hope everybody down south's ok.
> 
> Debbie.
> _______________________________________________

Here on the edge of the London region, we're alright.
Life goes on as usual - just a different cause for today's traffic jams.
A few people have 'lucky escape' stories to tell.
It's the usual aftermath of another attempt to terrorise us.
You'd think history would tell them it's not worth it.
Others have tried a lot harder and not succeeded.

Is anyone keeping a record of changes in uniform of the emergency 
services staff?
Future re-enactors might want to know!

Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).
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Subject: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question
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What is the difference between damask and jacquard?

I ask because I just finished ironing a huge pile of napkins and 4 large 
tablecloths that were originally my grandmothers'. So they could be as 
old as early 20th century (one looks very art deco to me) to probably 
the 50s or 60s.

Also, any preferred cleaning method to lighten the yellowed areas on 
some of the pieces? I believe they are all linen: iron like linen, 
wrinkle like linen, wash like linen. It won't kill me to toss the 
yellowed pieces, but I'd like to try cleaning them anyway.
I have washed them in hot water with regular laundry detergent and some 
liquid bleach. No difference.

liz young

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Hi,
A couple of sites I found by googling 'linen care' and ' bleaching yellowed linen'.

http://www.srfabrics.com/care/linen.htm

http://www.touchofeurope.net/care.html 
     - this site you need to scroll down to the relevant parts.

Good luck with whatever you decide to try.

Joannah. 

--- Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net> wrote:

From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 23:40:22 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question

What is the difference between damask and jacquard?

I ask because I just finished ironing a huge pile of napkins and 4 large 
tablecloths that were originally my grandmothers'. So they could be as 
old as early 20th century (one looks very art deco to me) to probably 
the 50s or 60s.

Also, any preferred cleaning method to lighten the yellowed areas on 
some of the pieces? I believe they are all linen: iron like linen, 
wrinkle like linen, wash like linen. It won't kill me to toss the 
yellowed pieces, but I'd like to try cleaning them anyway.
I have washed them in hot water with regular laundry detergent and some 
liquid bleach. No difference.

liz young

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>What is the difference between damask and jacquard?

I think the relationship is that Damask is a fabric produced by the 
jacquard weaving method.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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In a message dated 7/8/2005 6:03:13 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kayta@frys.com writes:

I think  the relationship is that Damask is a fabric produced by the 
jacquard  weaving method.



That is close.  Damask and brocade are both elaborately patterned  weaves.  
Damask always has a satin background and is reversible.   Brocade can have a 
satin or twill background and is not reversible.
 
The jacquard attachment, invented in the early 19th century, could be  
attached to a loom automate such patterns, as it were.  The most elaborate  patterns 
can be woven on the simplest loom--it just takes forever!  The  draw loom, 
where each thread is controlled individually, enabled patterned  weaves, but was 
still very slow--a "drawboy" would draw up each row of threads  according to 
the pattern for the weaver.  The "barrel" loom was another  development in 
patterned weaving--think of a mechanism kind of like the cylinder  in a music box.
 
So, jacquard is NOT a weave, nor is it even a loom--it is an attachment  that 
can be installed on a loom.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Everyone in London okay?
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <H-Needlework@ansteorra.org>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 9:38 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Everyone in London okay?


> I was horrified to read in the news this morning that some damned
> terrorist group was setting off bombs in London today, and that there
> were casualties.  My thoughts and prayers are with anyone dealing with
> the effects of that violence....
> Does anyone have a way of contacting Teddy, and seeing if he's okay? I
> know he's off-list at the moment....

Teddy posted several times to Live Journal yesterday. He was stuck in
London, but unhurt.

Dianne
> --Sue from Montana
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>Damask always has a satin background and is reversible.   Brocade can have a
>satin or twill background and is not reversible.

I thought the difference between Damask and Brocade was that Damask was all 
one color and Brocade was more than one.  But both could be woven by the 
Jacquard process, involving those punch-cards.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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In a message dated 7/8/2005 8:18:10 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kayta@frys.com writes:

thought  the difference between Damask and Brocade was that Damask was all 
one  color and Brocade was more than one.  


And I believe you are right about that--I think that damask is all one  color.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 433
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> However leads me to a question! how does one keep veils on when nothing 
> ever stays I have tried everything this side of glue and staples to keep 
> veils on  even the folding method. any suggestions????

The secret is pins.

I've used two methods
1 - I make a little bunch of hair with rubber bands (they don't slip like 
elastics made for hair tend to do), one at the front of my head, one at the 
back, and pin through the elastic to keep the veil in place. It makes a 
little bump, but it doesn't show too much.
2 - I wear a white cap under the veil. I tie it at the back of my head or 
under my chin, depending if the veil will cover the ties in front or not. 
When tied at the nape of my neck, I bring the front down lower than my 
hairline, to make sure it stays. Then I pin the veil to it, making sure I 
hide everything underneath.

The second technique is much more comfortable than anything else I've tried. 
My hair is short and slippery, so nothing holds to it :-) 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Items of possible interest
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> <http://www.hancockfabrics.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1229&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=1218&iSubCat=1229&page=1>
>
> It's a collection of "heirloom" looking sewing tools, including tape 
> measure, seam ripper, needle case, etc.  that comes in both silver and 
> gold finishes.

You might also be interested in what Historic Enterprises 
(www.historicenterprises.com) have
a Sewing kit 
http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=67&c=38
and a Repair Kit 
http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=221&c=38
They're very, very nice. Not rated as super historical on their site, but 
good enough for what I do... One day I'll buy one. Or buy the pieces 
separately, and eventually build myself one :-) Let's just say I have other 
priorities for now... 
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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> 2 - I wear a white cap under the veil.

I've tried this method, and the issue I have is that even the cap 
doesn't stay. I can be sitting still and within about 10 minutes the 
little bugger slides right off the back of my head, even if it's tied 
under my chin!

I know they're modern, but the only thing I can get to stay on my head 
for any length of time are those Chinese hair nets with the elastic in 
them, and even those I have to pin down!


Dawn



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Dawn wrote:

>> 2 - I wear a white cap under the veil.
> 
> I've tried this method, and the issue I have is that even the cap 
> doesn't stay. I can be sitting still and within about 10 minutes the 
> little bugger slides right off the back of my head, even if it's tied 
> under my chin!

Do you have the "made from a square" early sort, or the later one with 
three pieces, which narrows down a bit toward the face?  The latter 
might stay better.  Also using a rougher fabric might help -- a larger 
weave linen, for example.

cv

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue
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> Dawn wrote:
>
>>> 2 - I wear a white cap under the veil.
>>
>> I've tried this method, and the issue I have is that even the cap doesn't 
>> stay. I can be sitting still and within about 10 minutes the little 
>> bugger slides right off the back of my head, even if it's tied under my 
>> chin!
>
> Do you have the "made from a square" early sort, or the later one with 
> three pieces, which narrows down a bit toward the face?  The latter might 
> stay better.  Also using a rougher fabric might help -- a larger weave 
> linen, for example.
>
> cv

If it's any help, I used Margo's patterns to make mine, and it's the 
three-piece kind. I think the front edge is all on the grain so it doesn't 
stretch at all. As I said, I usually wear it low in front (a good 1/2 inch 
below my hairline) and tie it at the nape of my neck. So it actually holds 
to skin, not hair, in front. 
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Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 19:23:41 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] veils
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I don't know when your persona is, but you might try looking into a
medieval linen coif. They were a very popular item for both genders.

I cheated a bit on mine. It's got a cotton shell, and a flannel lining.
Warm when you want warm. In hot weather, you can get it soaking wet,
wring it out, and you'll stay comfortable for hours--the shell dries
quickly, but the cotton doesn't.

The same friend who made this one to my specs is making another one for
me of linen--both layers.

Back to veils--I hate underpinnings for veils. I don't use any. My
circlet is lined with leather strapping with bias tape over that, so it
has lots of tooth and doesn't let the veil slide into the sunset. I
recently made a cross stitched headband, using canvas as the ground
fabric, and folded the edges to the back and stitched them down. Again,
the back has plenty of tooth and won't let the veil drop.

Arlys

On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 16:22:06 -0500 Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> writes:
> Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> 
> > 2 - I wear a white cap under the veil.
> 
> I've tried this method, and the issue I have is that even the cap 
> doesn't stay. I can be sitting still and within about 10 minutes the 
> 
> little bugger slides right off the back of my head, even if it's 
> tied 
> under my chin!
> 
> I know they're modern, but the only thing I can get to stay on my 
> head 
> for any length of time are those Chinese hair nets with the elastic 
> in 
> them, and even those I have to pin down!
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 20:32:33 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Items of possible interest
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>You might also be interested in what Historic Enterprises 
>(www.historicenterprises.com) have
>a Sewing kit 
>http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=67&c=38
>and a Repair Kit 
>http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=221&c=38
>They're very, very nice. Not rated as super historical on their site, but 
>good enough for what I do... One day I'll buy one. Or buy the pieces 
>separately, and eventually build myself one :-)

You'll save a ton of money buying the parts separately, elsewhere, and 
building one yourself.  You can do better than their box too.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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For those who have been asking about Suzi Clark in London, she would like 
me to pass on the word that she and her family are okay.  She is having 
difficulty posting to the list.
Dawn


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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
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At 07:58 AM 7/7/2005, you wrote:
>For those of us in the US that are awaiting delivery of NESAT 7, David 
>Brown Books has notified me that
>
>"NESAT 7 will be arriving here in early August.  It is already on its way 
>to us in a surface shipment."
>
>Beth


For those of us scratching our heads... what is NESAT 7??

Kimiko


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:) lol

-----Original Message-----
Had to share this - it gave me a major case of the giggles :-D

http://thedevilspanties.keenspace.com/d/20050623.html

Hope you enjoyed!

Joannah.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hanging a hanging
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A row of loops or rings round a horizontal pole? I've seen modern tapestries hung that way.
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> jtknits@jtknits.cts.com 07/07/2005 17:22 >>>

This may be a bit off topic since it's not clothing...but it is historic.

A friend is trying to research how wall hangings were actually hung.  I suggested she get in touch with some English museums but then remembered there are many UK folks here.

How did they keep those gorgeous tapestries on the castle walls?

Thanks
Julie in San Diego

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question
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Actually, I had the old way work for me on a yellowed spot on a dishtowel- I
got it soaking wet- just tap water, wrung it out then hung in the sun to
dry.. my towel was hung on a concrete pillar of a building, but I'm sure a
windowsill or shrub would be much more period.
Hope this helps, worth a try anyway (course you may have to re-iron..darn.)
Betsy
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Young
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 1:40 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question

What is the difference between damask and jacquard?

I ask because I just finished ironing a huge pile of napkins and 4 large 
tablecloths that were originally my grandmothers'. So they could be as 
old as early 20th century (one looks very art deco to me) to probably 
the 50s or 60s.

Also, any preferred cleaning method to lighten the yellowed areas on 
some of the pieces? I believe they are all linen: iron like linen, 
wrinkle like linen, wash like linen. It won't kill me to toss the 
yellowed pieces, but I'd like to try cleaning them anyway.
I have washed them in hot water with regular laundry detergent and some 
liquid bleach. No difference.

liz young

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> Slashing with a 5/8" chisel worked very well--

What did you use? A woodworking chisel, or a pinking chisel, or something 
made especially for slashing? 
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> 
> Do you have the "made from a square" early sort, or the later one with 
> three pieces, which narrows down a bit toward the face?  The latter 
> might stay better.  Also using a rougher fabric might help -- a larger 
> weave linen, for example.

It's made from a rectangle, the seam is across the top and the back has 
been gathered to fit the curve of my head.  It was actually a mock-up, 
but it came out well enough I never made one in linen. I guess it's time 
to do that. :)



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
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Glad to know everybody is okay.

I was in France, trying to get back to Canada. The planes were all late 
because they were triple-checking passports and doubling security checks. I 
grew up in the 80s, when nothing seemed to be happening worldwide - as if 
all the great wars and human-caused tragedies were behind us. It's very 
disquieting for me to see things like this starting to happen again... 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hanging a hanging
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Kate M Bunting wrote:

> A row of loops or rings round a horizontal pole? I've seen modern tapestries hung that way.

The images I've seen would be consistent with nails or hooks in the 
walls, and metal rings sewn on the backs of the tapestries.  Or possibly 
nails straght through the fabric.

Here's some examples:

http://humanities.uchicago.edu/images/heures/january.jpg

http://www.godecookery.com/afeast/feasts/fea005.html

http://www.godecookery.com/afeast/feasts/fea026.html

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pr? Argent

In the 1960s I was taught that Werner von Braun and the other Germans 
admitted to the United States had been Nazis in name only and had not 
perpetrated war crimes.  This is a lie generated by our government.  -- 
M.G. Lord in _Astro_Turf_
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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2005 09:11:07 -0400
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On my monitor, the codpiece looks like it has a stripe of black velvet about 
an inch or two wide running down the front of it with a shiny black button 
(?) right in the middle---constructed like the sides are red and the center 
front is black.   What would the black "button" be? Or am I seeing things?
Kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 11:47 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier


> At 11:49 AM 7/6/2005, you wrote:
>>Belt clasp for the sword belt.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>(snip)
>>  I also wonder what the shiny thing
>>above the codpiece is as well.
>
>
> That's an interesting style for a belt clasp. Thanks.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] NESAT 7
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The NESAT series are the published proceedings for the conferences of the 
Northern European Society for Archaeological Textiles.

For a list of the first 7:
http://home.arcor.de/dieter.kadereit/NESAT/

NESAT 8 is also out. My copy was shipped (from Poland) two months ago and 
I'm expecting (hoping for) it any day now. Contact me if you would like a 
copy of the flyer.

Copies of NESAT 4 and 5 are listed as still available via Oxbow and DBBC. 
All others are out of print, though a copy of NESAT 2 was listed by ABE and 
ILAB from Kirkegaards Antikvariat (Denmark). This is where I got my copy. 
I'm still looking for NESAT 1, 3 and 6.

Beth

At 06:50 AM 7/9/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 23:04:54 -0700
>From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] NESAT 7
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.0.20050707230434.03537418@64.87.54.245>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>At 07:58 AM 7/7/2005, you wrote:
> >For those of us in the US that are awaiting delivery of NESAT 7, David
> >Brown Books has notified me that
> >
> >"NESAT 7 will be arriving here in early August.  It is already on its way
> >to us in a surface shipment."
> >
> >Beth
>
>
>For those of us scratching our heads... what is NESAT 7??
>
>Kimiko

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question
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Thanks! everyone for defination and the sites and the tips.
I will put it all to good use.

liz young

Betsy Marshal wrote:
> Actually, I had the old way work for me on a yellowed spot on a dishtowel- I
> got it soaking wet- just tap water, wrung it out then hung in the sun to
> dry.. my towel was hung on a concrete pillar of a building, but I'm sure a
> windowsill or shrub would be much more period.
> Hope this helps, worth a try anyway (course you may have to re-iron..darn.)
> Betsy
> -----Original Message-----
> Behalf Of Elizabeth Young
> Subject: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question
> 
> What is the difference between damask and jacquard?

> Also, any preferred cleaning method to lighten the yellowed areas on 
> some of the pieces? 

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My husband bought me the Historic Enterprises sewing kit for Christmas a few 
years ago.  The box is attractive, but you need a cotter (sp?) pin to keep it 
closed.  I couldn't get the scissors to even cut thread.  They told me at 
Pennsic when I went to exchange them that you "had to hold them a certain way" 
that I never got the hang of.  Fortunately they finally accepted them in 
exchange.  The best thing in the box is the ring thimble.  I have bought several of 
those and keep them in the various places I sew.  Theirs is the most comfortable 
one that I've found.  My brain reads wearing a modern thimble as though 
there's an injury to that finger, so it shouldn't be used.  The ring thimble is the 
first one I've ever managed to use on a regular basis.

Nancy Stengel Ulmer
(Maddalena Salutati)
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On Sat, 9 Jul 2005 MaddNancy@aol.com wrote:

> The best thing in the box is the ring thimble.  I have bought several
> of those and keep them in the various places I sew.  Theirs is the
> most comfortable one that I've found.  My brain reads wearing a modern
> thimble as though there's an injury to that finger, so it shouldn't be
> used.  The ring thimble is the first one I've ever managed to use on a
> regular basis.

I love my ring thimble. Mine was from a company called Westair; there's a
UK phone number on the box if anyone wants. I forget which website I found
it on.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: veils
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Here's what I do to get veils to stay in place.

I have a little square white cloth which I fold in half to make a sort of
kerchief. On the corners, I sewed white ties. This looks like the kind of
little fashionable scarves or kerchiefs teen girls wear. I suppose you could
use one of those, but they're generally bright and patterned.

I put the folded edge of this kerchief over my forehead. Then I pull the
ties back behind my neck, cross them, and tie them either at the back of my
neck (if the veil is sheer) or on the top of my head (if I'm wearing a hat
that needs anchoring). The kerchief is just big enough that the back point
comes to the nape of my neck, and that gets tucked into the cords/ties. I
hope that makes sense.

I got this idea from the Elizabethan forehead cloth. It works for me because
I have very short hair and it keeps the bangs hidden, it is a nice anchor
for a coronet or circlet, and it is something for the veil pins to stick to.
And also, it's a lot easier to make than a cap.

Gail Finke

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> > The best thing in the box is the ring thimble.  I have bought several
> > of those and keep them in the various places I sew.
>
>I love my ring thimble. Mine was from a company called Westair; there's a
>UK phone number on the box if anyone wants. I forget which website I found
>it on.

I buy mine at a Japanese store that carries needlework supplies for things 
like Bunka.  Ring thimbles are for people with fingernails, or who 
otherwise can't feel the fabric thru a regular thimble.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: veils
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I take about a yard of a fine white cotton cloth, about a foot wide.  I fold it on the diagonal, place the middle about half way down my forehead, twist the two ends and then wrap them around the back of my head (at the nape of the neck) and around to the front and tuck them in. The fabric on top of the head tucks into the twisted wrap in the back so that the whole head is covered. This creates a bulkier headwrap than others have described, but not out of period as I've seen similar things in paintings.   Another way is to take the two twisted ends, cross them in the back, twist them more and make a figure eight at the nape of my neck and tuck in the eges.  This creates a smooth front and top, while the knot in the back is hidden by the veil. Veils and wimples pin to it very easily.  I have short, very fine and slippery hair and this works very well.  I actually wear this heapwrap by itself quite a bit, unless I'm being formal....  Gytha

Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote: 
Here's what I do to get veils to stay in place.

I have a little square white cloth which I fold in half to make a sort of
kerchief. On the corners, I sewed white ties. This looks like the kind of
little fashionable scarves or kerchiefs teen girls wear. I suppose you could
use one of those, but they're generally bright and patterned.

I put the folded edge of this kerchief over my forehead. Then I pull the
ties back behind my neck, cross them, and tie them either at the back of my
neck (if the veil is sheer) or on the top of my head (if I'm wearing a hat
that needs anchoring). The kerchief is just big enough that the back point
comes to the nape of my neck, and that gets tucked into the cords/ties. I
hope that makes sense.

I got this idea from the Elizabethan forehead cloth. It works for me because
I have very short hair and it keeps the bangs hidden, it is a nice anchor
for a coronet or circlet, and it is something for the veil pins to stick to.
And also, it's a lot easier to make than a cap.

Gail Finke

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I'm not sure what she used, but I used a 1/2" woodworking chisel, well 
sharpened..

Melusine


>> Slashing with a 5/8" chisel worked very well--
>
> What did you use? A woodworking chisel, or a pinking chisel, or something 
> made especially for slashing? 

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Thanks for clearing that up Beth!  I was also wondering what Nesat stood
for.  Can someone please tell me whether they are published in English,
German or both?  (Hoping for a good semblance of English but have friend
who can translate German if pushed and shoved a little).

Thanks in advance,
Lynette Hobcroft (ska Tyghra)
Sydney, Australia

> The NESAT series are the published proceedings for the conferences of the 
> Northern European Society for Archaeological Textiles.
> 
> For a list of the first 7:
> http://home.arcor.de/dieter.kadereit/NESAT/
> 
> NESAT 8 is also out. My copy was shipped (from Poland) two months ago and 
> I'm expecting (hoping for) it any day now. Contact me if you would like a 
> copy of the flyer.
> 
> Copies of NESAT 4 and 5 are listed as still available via Oxbow and DBBC. 
> All others are out of print, though a copy of NESAT 2 was listed by ABE
> and ILAB from Kirkegaards Antikvariat (Denmark). This is where I got my copy. 
> I'm still looking for NESAT 1, 3 and 6.
> 
> Beth


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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
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I was talking with one of my housemates, who told me that a friend of his had a time line up on his bedroom wall, with ALL of the battles since the beginning of recorded history on it. In 5000 odd years of recorded history, there was about a *total* of about 3 years in which there was not warfare of some sort occurring somewhere.

Unfortunately, it seems that war is inherent in human nature.

I don't remember a time when there hasn't been some sort of strife going on somewhere ( my earliest memories of being aware of war date from about 1973, when I became aware of news reports on TV ).

Joannah.


--- "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> wrote:

<snip>
I grew up in the 80s, when nothing seemed to be happening worldwide - as if all the great wars and human-caused tragedies were behind us. It's very disquieting for me to see things like this starting to happen again... 
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Subject: [h-cost] new thread - continuing strife in the World - was "folks
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COMMENT
 a whole world "always completely at peace" is a centuries-old dream, to which most of the Human Race has probably subscribed at one time or another. Hence it is very germane to our "living-history" interests as it enables us to more-easily understand the reasons for historical conflicts, and the way in which this shaped the historic civilisations we study.
However, as long as Humanity occasionally produces abberrant "human wolves" who "prey" on the rest of us - ["the Sheep"]; - for racial survival, the Human Race has always needed - and will continue to need - to study and practise the Arts of War, in order to protect "the Sheep".
As long as there is no effective, swift, and supra-National means of dealing with these "human wolves"** before their aberrant actions create major problems for the remainder of Humanity - ** i.e. - [1] Tyrants, Dictators, or outright Criminals who 'hi-jack' their own Nations' political Processes to obtain ultimate political power - which they then pervert for their own twisted- &/ -criminal purposes. Or [2] political/religious extremist fanatics who are prepared to use terrorism to get their hands on the levers of political, social, or religious control over the rest of their populations; - so long shall the Human Race have a need to train in- and to practise the Arts of War to protect the rest of us - who, for whatever reasons - personal inclination, religious, or political reasons - cannot, do not, or are unable to - take up arms in our own defence.
I suspect this situation will continue until political processes world-wdie develop to the point where policiains can be held individually-&-personally, Civilly/Politically/ criminally- responsible, life-long, for their actions while in Office.
It is a sad comment on the United Nations at the moment that of the near-200 Nation-States represented there, - less than 40 have governments that could be described as truly democratic. This is - and I suspect - will remain - a recipe for potential conflict and probable innocent deaths numbered in the 1000's, if not in the millions.
Julian Wilson,
Military & Political Historian,
in "olde" Jersey.

Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net> wrote:
I was talking with one of my housemates, who told me that a friend of his had a time line up on his bedroom wall, with ALL of the battles since the beginning of recorded history on it. In 5000 odd years of recorded history, there was about a *total* of about 3 years in which there was not warfare of some sort occurring somewhere.

Unfortunately, it seems that war is inherent in human nature.

I don't remember a time when there hasn't been some sort of strife going on somewhere ( my earliest memories of being aware of war date from about 1973, when I became aware of news reports on TV ).


		
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we haven't
actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going to
charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how shiny
it is would that change when I washed it? (I have never worked with Rayon
Velvet as you don't see it in the shops here mostly it's poly/acetate deep
pile velvet or cotton velveteen)
So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better
off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from it?
Also if I were to take it what sort of era would suit 8m of Rayon velvet?
I'm primarily interested in Tudor (my first thought was something like
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary5.jpg or a loose gown like this
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Mary09.jpg) but I'm also open to
Elizabethan, 18th or 19th century ideas (there's nothing preventing me from
doing 17th century except that I haven't yet come across a 17th century
fashion that really grabs me and says "wear me!")
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
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At 04:04 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we haven't
>actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going to
>charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how shiny
>it is would that change when I washed it? (I have never worked with Rayon
>Velvet as you don't see it in the shops here mostly it's poly/acetate deep
>pile velvet or cotton velveteen)
>So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better
>off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from it?
>Also if I were to take it what sort of era would suit 8m of Rayon velvet?
>I'm primarily interested in Tudor (my first thought was something like
>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary5.jpg or a loose gown like this
>http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Mary09.jpg) but I'm also open to
>Elizabethan, 18th or 19th century ideas (there's nothing preventing me from
>doing 17th century except that I haven't yet come across a 17th century
>fashion that really grabs me and says "wear me!")
>thanks
>Elizabeth
>--------------------------------------------
>Elizabeth Walpole
>Canberra Australia
>ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
>http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

Given that rayon velvet is generally very difficult to sew (watch it 
slither away from you) and that it does not have the right hand or 
drape for pre-20th century clothing, I'd say "Thank you very much for 
thinking of me, but ..." and send it off to charity.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we haven't
actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going to
charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how shiny
it is would that change when I washed it? (I have never worked with Rayon
Velvet as you don't see it in the shops here mostly it's poly/acetate deep
pile velvet or cotton velveteen)
So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better
off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from it?
Also if I were to take it what sort of era would suit 8m of Rayon velvet?
I'm primarily interested in Tudor (my first thought was something like
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary5.jpg or a loose gown like this
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Mary09.jpg) but I'm also open to
Elizabethan, 18th or 19th century ideas (there's nothing preventing me from
doing 17th century except that I haven't yet come across a 17th century
fashion that really grabs me and says "wear me!")

I have used rayon velvet for Tudor with no problems - you just need to pin
it and pin it and pin it. 

Why do you want to wash it? I never, ever wash velvet, (of any kind) and
the suppliers here in England are horrifeid at the thought. I don't see the
point of buying a fabric for its look and feel, then washing it to change
that.

Suzi in London

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At 04:04 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we haven't
>actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going to
>charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how
shiny
>it is would that change when I washed it? (I have never worked with Rayon
>Velvet as you don't see it in the shops here mostly it's poly/acetate deep
>pile velvet or cotton velveteen)
>So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better
>off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from
it?
>Also if I were to take it what sort of era would suit 8m of Rayon velvet?
>I'm primarily interested in Tudor (my first thought was something like
>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary5.jpg or a loose gown like this
>http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Mary09.jpg) but I'm also open to
>Elizabethan, 18th or 19th century ideas (there's nothing preventing me from
>doing 17th century except that I haven't yet come across a 17th century
>fashion that really grabs me and says "wear me!")
>thanks
>Elizabeth

Given that rayon velvet is generally very difficult to sew (watch it 
slither away from you) and that it does not have the right hand or 
drape for pre-20th century clothing, I'd say "Thank you very much for 
thinking of me, but ..." and send it off to charity.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

Why do you say that? I find it works perfectly well for any period,
providing you use the right patterns. I prefer cotton velvet - there is no
cotton velveteen anywhere in England that I can find - but if my customers
are not well off, rayon velvet sometimes has to do. You can see several
examples of it in wear on my web site - The Henry Vlll and Anne Boleyn
figures are both wearing rayon velvet, as are the "Ramirez" characters -
both I seem to remember.


Suzi (www.suziclarke.co.uk)

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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: NESAT Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 444
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I haven't looked any any but - as far as I remember the different articles are written in the language of the writer's home country.

So a particular NESAT might have articles written in:
English, German, Swedish, Danish, French, German, Polish, etc
With no translation of any particular article for the non-native speaker.

Katheryne
who is still trying to get up the money for NESAT 5 - and then find the time to translate it.....

----- Original Message -----
From: Tyghra na Tintagel <tyghra_@fastmail.fm>
> Can someone please tell me whether they are published 
> in English, German or both?  (Hoping for a good semblance of English but
> have friend who can translate German if pushed and shoved a little).
> Lynette Hobcroft (ska Tyghra)
> Sydney, Australia

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The language of the papers vary in each NESAT volume. Most papers are in 
English or German, though I can think of one in Spanish.

Beth

At 06:42 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2005 14:03:08 +1000
>From: "Tyghra na Tintagel" <tyghra_@fastmail.fm>
>
>Thanks for clearing that up Beth!  I was also wondering what Nesat stood
>for.  Can someone please tell me whether they are published in English,
>German or both?  (Hoping for a good semblance of English but have friend
>who can translate German if pushed and shoved a little).
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Lynette Hobcroft (ska Tyghra)
>Sydney, Australia

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> A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we
haven't
> actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going
to
> charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how
shiny
> it is would that change when I washed it? (I have never worked with Rayon
> Velvet as you don't see it in the shops here mostly it's poly/acetate deep
> pile velvet or cotton velveteen)

It shouldn't change too much. Is this the chiffon velvet often labeled as
silk velvet, but actually has a rayon pile? Or does it have a heavier base?

> So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better
> off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from
it?

Take it! Velvet through the ages as far as I can tell varies as much as it
varies now. From close photos of several items I know I've spotted different
pile depths, thicknesses of the pile and sheen. And there are some very
glossy velvets out there. Especially of the 19thC. Some really OTT velvet
travelling suits made of the shiniest velvet seen;) Also very shiny plush.

There was a travelling outfit on ebay not long ago... but I'm not sure if it
is still up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=48864&item=8303219926&rd=1
That's one still up anyway.

http://www.rubylane.com/ni/shops/terry2/iteml/5821#pic1
This is one in particular I was thinking about.

True the flash probably affected the aparent sheen, but compared to man made
fibre shine in flash it's not too far off. Except in many poly velvets you
wind up seeing the ground through the pile.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=48864&item=8315843543&rd=1
Maybe someone has a different date on it, but that is some very glossy
plush. (first photo sans flash)

If it is chiffon velvet, just flat line it with some cotton to stabilise it
for a heavier feel. I did that with my velveteen for my Elizabeth de Valois
gown, and it makes a huge difference. In this way I'd think the Victoriam is
going to be the better way though as there was at least one very large piece
of velveteen in my Valois skirt which I think wouldn't work with the chiffon
velvet. With the Victorian you have the option of puffing and otherwise
catching the two layers of fabric together. But I also think one could do a
row of hand tacking stitched to keep the two frabrics together. I did that
with the wool interlining of my dress based on Mary of Hungary's gown.

michaela de bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: NESAT
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On Sun, 10 Jul 2005, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> The language of the papers vary in each NESAT volume. Most papers are in 
> English or German, though I can think of one in Spanish.

I don't have the book myself, but I have a bibliographical listing on hand
that says there are 24 papers in NESAT 7, five of them in German and the
rest in English.

You can usually get a good sense of the languages by looking at
the table of contents in a volume. Someone posted a listing earlier, but
this one might be easier:

http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/nesatlist.html

It covers NESATs 1-6.

--Robin

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"Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
writes:
>
> I'm not sure what she used, but I used a 1/2" woodworking chisel, well
> sharpened..

What _he_ used, actually:-)

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
  Phnglui mgwlnafth Cthulhu rlyey wghnagl fthagn.
  In his flat in Bromley, drunk Cthulhu waits knitting?  I think a few
subtle typos may have crept into that one.
  That explains why this shoggoth I summoned is only 3mm tall.
                           --Peter da Silva and Peter Gutmann

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we
> haven't
> actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going
> to
> charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how
> shiny
> it is would that change when I washed it?

I had some rayon velvet one time that I used to wrap gifts to give to
people at costume events.  Instead of wrapping paper, I used velvet.  Add
some ribbon and you have a beautiful gift on the inside AND outside ;~>

Or you could make wall hangings or curtains out of it....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: [h-cost] does anyone have these books?
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PANTS: A History Afoot
By Laurence Benaim

HOW THE WEST WAS WORN
By H. George-Warren & M. Freedman


Has anyone here seen, read, or bought either of these books? I'm looking 
for comments or reviews before I mail-order.



Dawn

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On Saturday 09 July 2005 10:03 am, you wrote:
> The NESAT series are the published proceedings for the conferences of the
> Northern European Society for Archaeological Textiles.
>
> For a list of the first 7:
> http://home.arcor.de/dieter.kadereit/NESAT/
>
> NESAT 8 is also out. My copy was shipped (from Poland) two months ago and
> I'm expecting (hoping for) it any day now. Contact me if you would like a
> copy of the flyer.

Two months!  Well, I won't get mine for a few weeks, then--mine was shipped 
only about 6 weeks ago.  Thanks for the information.

>
> Copies of NESAT 4 and 5 are listed as still available via Oxbow and DBBC.

bn.com also claims to have a used copy of NESAT 4 for $89.91, more than 
Oxbow/DBBC's price.

> All others are out of print, though a copy of NESAT 2 was listed by ABE and
> ILAB from Kirkegaards Antikvariat (Denmark). This is where I got my copy.

Those listings are still up.  

> I'm still looking for NESAT 1, 3 and 6.

NESAT 3 shows up in used book listings every once in a great while.  I last 
saw a copy a year or so ago.  Still wish I could have afforded it then.  I 
bought NESAT 6 when it first came out, but you're right that it doesn't seem 
to be available any longer even through used book channels.

I have never seen NESAT 1 advertised for sale anywhere and I've been looking 
for the NESATs for over 5 years now.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
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At 04:36 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>Why do you want to wash it? I never, ever wash velvet, (of any kind) and
>the suppliers here in England are horrifeid at the thought. I don't see the
>point of buying a fabric for its look and feel, then washing it to change
>that.
>
>Suzi in London


I wash my cotton velveteens and cotton velvets all the time. Why? To allow 
me to clean it at home, with gentle detergent and rinse, and then hang to 
dry. Otherwise, my costumes would cost a fortune to keep dry cleaned, not 
to mention all the trims I would have to remove first as dry cleaners here 
mangle or melt them.

Not to mention that some of the velvets I have purchased have the nastiest 
hand before wash (all the treatments), and soften up nicely after wash.

Then again, I don't buy rayon velvets as our groups locally consider them 
too shiny for "ren faire use" (we do Henry VIII to Elizabethan). But for 
other costuming things, I wouldn't mind... but I'd rather get the 
silk/rayon just cause it drapes better. And yes, I would gently pre-wash 
those as well.

Kimiko
in Fresno, CA, USA.



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At 04:04 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better
>off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from it?


A few questions to help you decide:
Are you involved in a group activity where the group is fine with rayon 
velvet use in the costumes?
If not involved, are you ok with using rayon velvet for one project or several?
Are you willing to do a lot of hand basting (better than lots of pins) in 
order to control the "velvet creep" while machine sewing?
Do you have a garment in mind when you look at the fabric, that does scream 
"make me!!!"?
Do you have space for the 8m of fabric?

If your answers are yes to any or most of the above, then by all means, 
accept the gift. If no is the common answer, then decline, and let the 
person give to charity.

Personally, I would accept it, and if after a year I hadn't found a 
suitable use, then I would give to a charity, perhaps in the name of the 
original donor. But the decision is yours. Have fun if you do!

Kimiko


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Subject: [h-cost] Bologna, Italy
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I'll be in Bologna, Italy, the afternoon of July 29th.  Any "must sees", 
especially textile-related?

TIA,
--Charlene

-- 
America is addicted to wars of distraction.  -- Barbara Ehrenreich
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Status: RO

 
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> audreybmorin2@hotmail.com 08/07/2005 22:06 >>>wrote
> I grew up in the 80s, when nothing seemed to be happening >worldwide - as if all the great wars and human-caused >tragedies were behind us.
 
Oh yes it was; here in Britain we were having to be wary of suspect packages because of the risk of IRA bombs.

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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 04:07:48 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: pinking & chisels was Re: ????  Re: [h-cost] h-costume added to Gmane
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At 04:20 PM 7/8/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>>Slashing with a 5/8" chisel worked very well--
>
>What did you use? A woodworking chisel, or a pinking chisel, or something 
>made especially for slashing?

I use both a pinking chisel like these:
http://www.greenmanforge.com/

Or a buttonhole chisel like this one:
http://www.bernina.co.uk/shop/General.htm
or
http://sewing-machine-parts-store.com/ButtonCut.asp

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]
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"Audrey Bergeron-Morin"
<audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> writes:
>
> > Slashing with a 5/8" chisel worked very well--
> 
> What did you use? A woodworking chisel, or a pinking chisel, or
> something made especially for slashing?

I ended up buying a woodworking chisel & rubber mallet from Lowe's.  The
only pinking tools I could find were from Green Man Forge, and the guy
who makes them didn't reply to my email until after I'd already gotten
my tools.

As it turns out, the chisel & mallet work very well: the chisel is
shaped to be comfortable in the hand, and the length means that I can
set a piece of scrap wood in my lap and cut the design into the fabric
bit-by-bit.  Only thing to be careful of is hitting too hard and
splitting the wood, sending a sharp chisel shooting into one's thigh.
This is pretty easy to prevent.

I forget if I mentioned this or not, but getting a long slash by putting
one right after the other works, although it does tend to have a little
jag where they meet--once the slash is properly fulled (by washing &
tumble drying), this shouldn't be a problem.  But if using a fabric
which cannot be washed, this might be an issue.

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
Homines est!  Dici omnes!  Soylens viridis HOMINES EST!

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 11 08:43:32 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
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In a message dated 7/10/2005 7:43:15 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suziclarkeuk-mail@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

I prefer  cotton velvet - there is no
cotton velveteen anywhere in England that I can  find - but if my customers
are not well off, rayon velvet sometimes has to  do.


Granted I don't do Tudor period, but here is my opinion on velvet.  I  think 
rayon velvet actually simulates silk velvet better than cotton does  because 
rayon is a filament fiber and cotton is staple--silk is also a filament  fiber. 
 It is true, though, that many cotton velvets have a good heavy  weight and 
rayon velvet can be pretty thin and slippery.  And it can be  difficult to sew, 
but this can be overcome with patience.  If it were  offered to me, I would 
probably take it.
 
Ann Wass 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 11 08:44:04 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] new book
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Hi,

I got two books from Sweden some time ago. One is a book about Sophia 
Magdalenas weddingdress, wich is a french court dress with a huge pannier. 
It is in Swedish, dont know if they have translated it. Livrustkammaren is 
the museum in the world that has 4 complete french court dresses, and i knew 
the 3 of them, but this book shows also the 4th. wich is a weddingdress used 
for Gustav III's younger brother's bride.
Then i wondered if any of you 17th century folks know how rich and 
wonderfull the book Fashion Lions is? It is packed with costumes from the 
northern part of Europe, included some of the danish costumes. Never have i 
seen a finer scandinavian book, it is to be compared to the large book i 
also have from Colonial Williamsburg, dont remember the name pressent, 
sorry.
We have a heat wawe in Denmark right now, wich makes me gloomy because my 
fingers gets oily all the time, and i cant touch the embroidery on the 
chenille dress, but i have started a small factory of ladies purses, intends 
to sell them on ebay. They are quick to make, i can make one each day- well 
the embroidery that is..................
Glad that our english members are safe and well, but i hope that the terror 
is gone again. I am so frightened because we are expecting actions here 
soon, and i go by the tube tomorrow to work. Luckily the police has taken 
patrols on the stations all the time.......................

Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
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At 04:36 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>Why do you want to wash it? I never, ever wash velvet, (of any kind) and
>the suppliers here in England are horrifeid at the thought. I don't see the
>point of buying a fabric for its look and feel, then washing it to change
>that.
>
>Suzi in London


I wash my cotton velveteens and cotton velvets all the time. Why? To allow 
me to clean it at home, with gentle detergent and rinse, and then hang to 
dry. Otherwise, my costumes would cost a fortune to keep dry cleaned, not 
to mention all the trims I would have to remove first as dry cleaners here 
mangle or melt them.

If I am using velvet it is  for an elaborate gown, covered with trims, and
totally unsuitable for washing. I have customers from 20 years ago who have
only had their costumes dry cleaned, and they are in excellent condition,
no melting or mangling. Obviously it takes all sorts.

Not to mention that some of the velvets I have purchased have the nastiest 
hand before wash (all the treatments), and soften up nicely after wash.

I have never had to buy velvets that I didn't like the hand of - I don't
give customers those to sample!! And the rayons here are not really shiny
at all. However, the so-called silk velvets are really nasty looking, and
expensive, but usually look cheap!! I won't touch them at all. Isn't it
fascinating how different our experiences qwith fabrics are?

Suzi in London

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What name do you use to sell on ebay?  I'd love to watch for your purses -
perhaps something I can actually afford done by Bjarne!!!!!
Eagerly waiting to shop,
-Megan

Bjarne Drews wrote:
<snip>
 i have started a small factory of ladies purses, intends 
to sell them on ebay. They are quick to make, i can make one each day- well 
the embroidery that is..................
<snip>


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That's a nice looking awl handle.   Do you know if they sell any of those 
things individually?

Marc
(always looking to improve my collection of medieval shoemaking tools)


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From: pixel <goddessandqueen@gmail.com>
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Usually I just wear a barbette (the chin band) and a veil. The
barbette is folded on the grain to be about an inch wide. It then gets
pinned to itself on the top of my head or somewhere close to the top
of my head, and the veil gets pinned to that.

Margaret/Pixel

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*snip*

Glad that our english members are safe and well, but i hope that the
terror is gone again. I am so frightened because we are expecting
actions here soon, and i go by the tube tomorrow to work. Luckily the
police has taken patrols on the stations all the
time.......................

Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 

********

This is one of the few times I've been happy that the Seattle area has
such lousy mass transit. Do we need to do combat costuming for our daily
commute now? Kevlar pannier might not be such a bad idea, and the
stomacher, being already boned, could translate well into a modern
decorative shield . . . *ahem* . . . Sorry, being worried about various
friends makes me snippy.

My thoughts are with you, Bjarne, and be sure to check in with us when
you get home. We worry!

Kate McClure
aka StitchWitch
 

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Bjarne wrote:

> Glad that our english members are safe and well, but i hope that the terror
> is gone again. I am so frightened because we are expecting actions here
> soon, and i go by the tube tomorrow to work. Luckily the police has taken
> patrols on the stations all the time.......................

Bjarne: Are you all really expecting a terrorist attack in Denmark? Or are
you worried about that web post from the group who said they did the English
bombing, and threatened Denmark and Italy? It is easy to say anything on a
web site. It is much harder to do something. Do you have a large Muslim
population in Denmark?

Gail Finke

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In a message dated 7/11/2005 4:51:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
hanstar88@yahoo.com writes:

jacquard


Main Entry: jac·quard
Pronunciation: 'ja-"kärd
 
Of course it's a proper name, so the French pronunciation is  fine too, as 
far as I'm concerned.
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In a message dated 7/11/2005 8:44:09 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suziclarkeuk-mail@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

I wash  my cotton velveteens and cotton velvets all the time.  Why?


I used to get [when I lived in Greensboro, NC] heavy cotton velvet "scraps"  
free from a company called SECCOA [it's an anagram for....something] that 
makes  theatre curtains and "blacks". Since the lengths used to make the curtains 
are  the height of whatever proscenium they are to decorate, if there was a 
flaw in  the fabrics say 6 yards into a 10 yard piece for a 30' proscenium, that 
piece  would get cut off and become a 6 yard scrap!!!! I'd go get lengths of 
4 to 6  yards usually. "Thank goodness we don't have to lug them to the 
dumpster" the  girls would say as I came to haul these enormous scraps off.
 
Anyway, I'd always wash the heavy velvet. It got out a salt treatment put  in 
the fabric to make it fire proof and the nap would fluff up beautifully. It's 
 the kind of velvet whose color changes an entire shade from nap up to  nap 
down. [Many rayon velvets don't seem to do this.] Better cut everything out  in 
one direction!
 
I had a steamer to "iron" the velvet.
 
I might wash a rayon velvet to fluff it up. But thank god for the  steamer!
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From: Mary <hanstar88@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] "jacquard" pronunciation
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While we're on the subject of jacquard, I have a dumb question....

My friend and I have this argument all the time.  Is "jacquard"
pronounced like "jack-erd" or "zhe-card"?  She says the former and I
say the latter.  But then again, she comes from a sail-makers/boating
background and says that's how everyone in that industry says it;
while I come from a "4 years of high school french" & self-taught
sewer/costumer background.

Thanks!
~mary

> Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 07:10:54 EDT
> From: AnnBWass@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question
>  
> In a message dated 7/8/2005 6:03:13 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> kayta@frys.com writes:
> 
> I think  the relationship is that Damask is a fabric produced by
> the 
> jacquard  weaving method.
> 
> 
> 
> That is close.  Damask and brocade are both elaborately patterned 
> weaves.  
> Damask always has a satin background and is reversible.   Brocade
> can have a 
> satin or twill background and is not reversible.
>  
> The jacquard attachment, invented in the early 19th century, could
> be  
> attached to a loom automate such patterns, as it were.  The most
> elaborate  patterns 
> can be woven on the simplest loom--it just takes forever!  The 
> draw loom, 
> where each thread is controlled individually, enabled patterned 
> weaves, but was 
> still very slow--a "drawboy" would draw up each row of threads 
> according to 
> the pattern for the weaver.  The "barrel" loom was another 
> development in 
> patterned weaving--think of a mechanism kind of like the cylinder 
> in a music box.
>  
> So, jacquard is NOT a weave, nor is it even a loom--it is an
> attachment  that 
> can be installed on a loom.
>  
> Ann Wass
> 
> 


"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: bjarne(and Scottish fabrics)
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 I really like the idea of using historic clothing as the basis of
anti-terrorist attack clothing--panniers, stomachers--the History
Channel on the west side of the pond recently ran a program on advances
in protective gear for armed services. Sad that we have to even consider
such for civilians, but we might as well keep a sense of humor, however
dark, about it, and a sense of fashion.  Panniers or hoop skirts,
especially could conceal a myriad of aids to help one during a terrorist
attack. You could custom outfit yourself to fit your own situation like
a giant Swiss Army knife.

I recall one New York woman a month or so after 9-11 remarking: "Ok,
I've got my  special parachute as I live and work in tall buildings, my
gas mask, AK-47 and all of my shots, including anthrax. Am I missing
anything?"

Sure, I have to admit that I'm afraid of some sort of terrorist attack,
by some idealist domestic or foreign. But my chances of getting robbed,
hit by a car while crossing the street, or contracting a serious illness
are much higher every day. And I'm sure some violent idealist somewhere
would like to attack Omaha Nebraska where I live, since we are near the
home of the Strategic Air Command.

The terrorists we fear today are no different than those with idealists
throughout history who have believed that killing the innocent is
necessary in order to obtain their idea of Utopia, so that all must
believe as they believe or else. The sad thing is today's violent
idealist turned terrorist has much better weapons.

Unbelievably sad that one of the subway bombings took place right in a
Muslim neighborhood. At least one Muslim woman is missing.

Didn't the British during the Blitz manufacture gas masks in fashionable
shades, BTW?

On a lighter note, a friend of mine is in the process of planning a
possible trip to Scotland, perhaps as early as the fall, and would
appreciate info on shops that carry unique fabrics as she is a quilter
and doll costumer. I, and some of the gals in our doll-making class, are
planning to give her some purchase commissions as well. We know about
Scottish tartans, wools, and tweeds--but are their other fabrics unique
or popular in Scotland, not known to the non-fabricholic?

Thanks much.

Cindy Abel

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Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2005 09:56:59 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
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AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> 
>In a message dated 7/10/2005 7:43:15 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
>suziclarkeuk-mail@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
>I prefer  cotton velvet - there is no
>cotton velveteen anywhere in England that I can  find - but if my customers
>are not well off, rayon velvet sometimes has to  do.
>
>
>Granted I don't do Tudor period, but here is my opinion on velvet.  I  think 
>rayon velvet actually simulates silk velvet better than cotton does  because 
>rayon is a filament fiber and cotton is staple--silk is also a filament  fiber. 
> It is true, though, that many cotton velvets have a good heavy  weight and 
>rayon velvet can be pretty thin and slippery.  And it can be  difficult to sew, 
>but this can be overcome with patience.  If it were  offered to me, I would 
>probably take it.
>  
>

I concur.  Personally, I feel that good-quality cotton velvet is the 
best non-silk velvet for re-creation (taking into account weight, drape, 
ease of use although losing a little in sheen).  But having said that, 
rayon velvet has some advantages and is not to be sniffed at.  Besides 
that, you shouldn't pass up free fabric.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2005 09:59:08 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "jacquard" pronunciation
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Mary wrote:

>While we're on the subject of jacquard, I have a dumb question....
>
>My friend and I have this argument all the time.  Is "jacquard"
>pronounced like "jack-erd" or "zhe-card"?  She says the former and I
>say the latter.  But then again, she comes from a sail-makers/boating
>background and says that's how everyone in that industry says it;
>while I come from a "4 years of high school french" & self-taught
>sewer/costumer background.
>  
>

ja-CARD.  The first 'a' is pronounced like the 'a' in 'funeral'.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bjarne(and Scottish fabrics)
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>Panniers or hoop skirts,
>especially could conceal a myriad of aids to help one during a terrorist
>attack. You could custom outfit yourself to fit your own situation like
>a giant Swiss Army knife.
>  
>

Panniers or hoopskirts would probably be great for a terrorist too--I 
bet they're big enough to hide some kind of explosive device.  Not that 
I'm any expert on bombs . . . but  if you tried to get on an airplane in 
such an outfit, security would give you very close scrutiny.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 16:39:40 -0700
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> >a giant Swiss Army knife.
Except you can't get a Swiss Army knife onto a plane!

On 7/11/05, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
> Panniers or hoopskirts would probably be great for a terrorist too--I
> bet they're big enough to hide some kind of explosive device.  Not that
> I'm any expert on bombs . . . but  if you tried to get on an airplane in
> such an outfit, security would give you very close scrutiny.

Especialy with metal bones! 

I was pulled out of line in 1982-3 travelling by plane from SFO to LA
with a boned bodice in my duffle bag. Security went through everything
I was carrying. I barely made it onto my plane in time.

LynnD

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From: Pam Dotson <dotsontwo@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new book
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Please let us know when you put the purses up on ebay.  I'm getting giddy just at the thought of owning something made by you!
 
Pam Dotson

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
Hi,

I got two books from Sweden some time ago. One is a book about Sophia 
Magdalenas weddingdress, wich is a french court dress with a huge pannier. 
It is in Swedish, dont know if they have translated it. Livrustkammaren is 
the museum in the world that has 4 complete french court dresses, and i knew 
the 3 of them, but this book shows also the 4th. wich is a weddingdress used 
for Gustav III's younger brother's bride.
Then i wondered if any of you 17th century folks know how rich and 
wonderfull the book Fashion Lions is? It is packed with costumes from the 
northern part of Europe, included some of the danish costumes. Never have i 
seen a finer scandinavian book, it is to be compared to the large book i 
also have from Colonial Williamsburg, dont remember the name pressent, 
sorry.
We have a heat wawe in Denmark right now, wich makes me gloomy because my 
fingers gets oily all the time, and i cant touch the embroidery on the 
chenille dress, but i have started a small factory of ladies purses, intends 
to sell them on ebay. They are quick to make, i can make one each day- well 
the embroidery that is..................
Glad that our english members are safe and well, but i hope that the terror 
is gone again. I am so frightened because we are expecting actions here 
soon, and i go by the tube tomorrow to work. Luckily the police has taken 
patrols on the stations all the time.......................

Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] To Bjarne :-)
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Bjarne,

	I can understand your worries.  I'm going to be spending a week in
Washington, D.C. at the Hyatt Crystal City.  This hotel is right next to
Reagan/National Airport. Only a few miles from the Pentagon (an old friend
was at ground zero on 9/11.  He survived Viet Nam and was working to make
life easier for other veterans) and the White House.  The conference is
government run and covers the US military health care system.
	While there I intend to spend every free second in the Smithsonian or on
the subway getting there.  Ground zero for the latest terrorists junkies.
	I'm simply not worried.  Do I believe that it can't happen to me?  No, I
don't believe that.  What I do believe is that the chance that I will at
that particular place at that particular time is so small that it doesn't
rate a worry.
	Granted, I don't take the tube every day, but I'm not so sure how much that
really increases your change of being in the wrong place at the wrong time.
The death toll in London is around 50.  Far worse, the injured is around
700.  This from a number of commuters/tourists/shoppers that probably
numbers in the many thousands.  The chances against being one of them must
have been miniscule. Much less than your chance of being run over riding
your bike to work the next day!
	At any event, this is blackmail.  The schoolyard bullies beating up on one
person and threatening the rest "if you don't tow the line, next time this
will be you!"  The choice is to crawl to their demands or to stand up like
grown ups and refuse to be bullied into accepting their way "or else!"
	Don't you dare take this personally because it isn't meant for you Oh Great
Dane (grin - that's a joke)!  The English have had a saying for nearly 1000
years:  "If you pay Danegeld, you never get rid of the Dane."  These
terrorists want their variety of Danegeld.  If they get it, they will be
back again, and again.
	I've always had the highest respect for the Danish people.  They stood up
to the greatest bullies of the last century, the Nazi's and did what they
believed was right.  Probably the only country in the world that came out of
WWII with the moral high ground intact.
	Do I believe that all the US is doing is right?  No, and neither do a large
share of Americans.  However, I don't see that letting the terrorists who
are willing to massacre completely innocent people to get their way as
anyone I want to hand the world over to either.

	Love your embroidery.  Hope the ladies purses go over well.  Hope the
weather cools down soon since I'll be spending three weeks in
September/October in England and Scotland (one whole week in London!)

Wanda Pease
Snip
......
> Glad that our english members are safe and well, but i hope that
> the terror
> is gone again. I am so frightened because we are expecting actions here
> soon, and i go by the tube tomorrow to work. Luckily the police has taken
> patrols on the stations all the time.......................
>
> Bjarne Drews

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bjarne(and Scottish fabrics)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 23:44:21 -0400
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Fran wrote:
> Panniers or hoopskirts would probably be great for a terrorist too--I 
> bet they're big enough to hide some kind of explosive device.  Not that 
> I'm any expert on bombs . . . but  if you tried to get on an airplane in 
> such an outfit, security would give you very close scrutiny.

Yeah, and they'd probably make you buy two extra seats...
          -Helen/Aidan

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new book
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2005 00:11:06 -0400
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On Monday 11 July 2005 8:45 pm, Pam Dotson wrote:
> Please let us know when you put the purses up on ebay.  I'm getting giddy
> just at the thought of owning something made by you!
>
> Pam Dotson
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I got two books from Sweden some time ago. One is a book about Sophia
> Magdalenas weddingdress, wich is a french court dress with a huge pannier.
> It is in Swedish, dont know if they have translated it. Livrustkammaren is
> the museum in the world that has 4 complete french court dresses, and i
> knew the 3 of them, but this book shows also the 4th. wich is a
> weddingdress used for Gustav III's younger brother's bride.
> Then i wondered if any of you 17th century folks know how rich and
> wonderfull the book Fashion Lions is? It is packed with costumes from the
> northern part of Europe, included some of the danish costumes. Never have i
> seen a finer scandinavian book, it is to be compared to the large book i
> also have from Colonial Williamsburg, dont remember the name pressent,
> sorry.

Bjarne, could the "large book...from Colonia Williamsburg" be "What Clothes 
Reveal" by Linda Baumgarten?


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "jacquard" pronunciation
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Status: RO

 
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> AlbertCat@aol.com 11/07/2005 21:58 >>>


In a message dated 7/11/2005 4:51:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
hanstar88@yahoo.com writes:

jacquard


Main Entry: jac·quard
Pronunciation: 'ja-"kärd

Of course it's a proper name, so the French pronunciation is  fine too, as 
far as I'm concerned.
_______________________________________________

Last week I attempted to forward to the list an article about the Jacquard loom from "Oxford Reference Online", but the system wouldn't let me. Here's the relevant bit:
"The invention of the Jacquard loom by Joseph Marie Jacquard (1752-1834), born in Lyons, France, simplified weaving, but it also cost thousands of silk workers their jobs. There was much turmoil, and Jacquard on one occasion was seized by an angry mob and barely escaped with his life. The problem subsided when Napoleon purchased the loom and declared it to be the property of the French state. The purchase hastened the lowering of silk prices, which, in turn, greatly improved the market for silk, and thus helped the reemployment of workers in that industry. In 1819 Jacquard was awarded a gold medal and the Cross of the Legion of Honour. The use of his loom spread to England in the 1820s and from there virtually worldwide."
 
When I was young I once had a holiday job at a local textile factory.  Nearby was a man operating a machine to make the punched cards for Jacquard weaving. I should think the design was virtually unchanged since the 19th century.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Slashing
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Out of curiousity, is there a reason for making a long slash with a chisel rather than with scissors?

On a similar note, I used a gouge (curved chisel) to make the dagged edges of a hood, and it worked very well.

Nancy Kiel
"I'm not lost, but I don't know where I am." -- David Byrne
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Robert Uhl<mailto:eadmund42@gmail.com> 
  To: h-costume@net.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@net.indra.com> 
  Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2005 10:19 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]



  I forget if I mentioned this or not, but getting a long slash by putting
  one right after the other works, although it does tend to have a little
  jag where they meet--once the slash is properly fulled (by washing &
  tumble drying), this shouldn't be a problem.  But if using a fabric
  which cannot be washed, this might be an issue.

  -- 
  Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl<http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>>
  Homines est!  Dici omnes!  Soylens viridis HOMINES EST!

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Slashing
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>Out of curiousity, is there a reason for making a long slash with a chisel 
>rather than with scissors?

I use an Xacto knife.  Scissors leave a jag at one end, where you begin 
cutting, unless you're really careful.  I lay out all my slashes on the 
back side of the fabric, or at least the lines between which a row of them 
will go, and I use a convexly-curved blade on the knife.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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You could also, conceivably, use a seam ripper, as long as it was fairly 
sharp.  Where I worked, years ago, we used to use them all the time when 
cutting away letters and such on backlit awnings*, but then, we had a 
nearly endless supply of them, and could discard at will.  Doesn't leave 
the little jags that scissors can.
--sue
*Think of awnings for casinos and such--frequently a large part of the 
awnings are made from one fabric or vinyl, but the "logo" areas are made 
from other materials.  In an application a bit like reverse applique, 
the see-through materials are sewn to the back of the base fabric along 
certain design lines (usually letters for a word or name, or a design 
element), and then the extra bits of base fabric are carefully removed 
to reveal the accents beneath.  If the awning is to be backlit, you have 
to be *exceedingly* careful with stitch holes and maintaining an even 
margin of fabric, because the tiniest errors can cast suprising shadows 
when the thing is lit up.  It was a very interesting job, but not one 
that I'd want to have to do again if I can avoid it--at the very least, 
it did a lot to ruin my hands! ;o)

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> 
>> Out of curiousity, is there a reason for making a long slash with a 
>> chisel rather than with scissors?
> 
> 
> I use an Xacto knife.  Scissors leave a jag at one end, where you begin 
> cutting, unless you're really careful.  I lay out all my slashes on the 
> back side of the fabric, or at least the lines between which a row of 
> them will go, and I use a convexly-curved blade on the knife.
> 

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When I used to do live-action roleplaying, I was always trying to convince the boys that I should get a point of armor for my steel-boned corset. 
 
Tea Rose
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At 07:15 AM 7/12/2005, you wrote:
>When I used to do live-action roleplaying, I was always trying to 
>convince the boys that I should get a point of armor for my 
>steel-boned corset.
>
>Tea Rose

And I've been known to refer to a steel-boned corset as my "brigantine". :-)

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Mary <hanstar88@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "jacquard" pronunciation
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Thanks, I guess my friend and I are both wrong!  She says it "jack" +
"erd" (like "herd").  While I tried to "frenchify" it, giving the "j"
the "zhe" sound, like the name Jacques. :-)

We also argue about "voile".....  Good thing we only argue about
stupid things like that!

Thanks again, AlbertCat & Adele de Maisieres,
~mary

> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> jacquard
> 
> 
> Main Entry: jac·quard
> Pronunciation: 'ja-"kärd
>  
> Of course it's a proper name, so the French pronunciation is  fine
> too, as 
> far as I'm concerned.
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
> 
> ja-CARD.  The first 'a' is pronounced like the 'a' in 'funeral'.
> 
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres
> 


"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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>>When I used to do live-action roleplaying, I was always trying to 
>>convince the boys that I should get a point of armor for my steel-boned corset.

>>And I've been known to refer to a steel-boned corset as my "brigantine". :-)

There's a Charles Adams cartoon from like the 1930s or 40s, showing a 
matron in a corset shop, wearing a hat, slip, stockings, shoes, and a 
corset made up of geometric shaped pieces of something.  The sales lady is 
telling her "This one has the advantage of being bulletproof".

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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Sorry for the cross post -- but is there anybody at the University of British
Columbia who could help me with an Off-List conundrum?

Thanks,
Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Defensive costuming
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> At 07:15 AM 7/12/2005, you wrote:
>>When I used to do live-action roleplaying, I was always trying to convince 
>>the boys that I should get a point of armor for my steel-boned corset.
>>
>>Tea Rose
>
> And I've been known to refer to a steel-boned corset as my "brigantine". 
> :-)
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net

I  do fight in my corset....I do historic rapier combat, and I fight in my 
early 17th century dress, complete with corset.  The only thing I change is 
to wear my high-necked bodice instead.

Melusine 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] embroidery for purses
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Hi,
I have uploaded 4 different embroideries for purses so that you can have a 
look. They need to be ironed, shameless of me, but i just wanted to hurry 
along.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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"Nancy Kiel" <nancy_kiel@hotmail.com> writes:
>
> Out of curiousity, is there a reason for making a long slash with a
> chisel rather than with scissors?

It's very difficult to get a straight cut with scissors, at least for
me--I end up with wide-mouthed Vs.  There is a bit of an irregularity
with the chisel, but it's still much less noticeable than with scissors.

Also, for what I'm doing and how I do it, it helps to see a good portion
of the fabric arrayed before me.

> On a similar note, I used a gouge (curved chisel) to make the dagged
> edges of a hood, and it worked very well.

Actually the chisel worked so well that I've started try to think where
else a similar arrangement might work out--similar to your usage of a
gouge to make dags.

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
Anyone who considers arithmetical methods of producing random digits
is, of course, in a state of sin.                 --John Von Neumann

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>>> <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> 08/07/2005 11:10 >>>



Kate Bunting found this entry in Oxford Reference Online and thought that you'd like to see it.
I believe "damask" is a much older name (derived from Damascus) for a fabric with a pattern woven into it.
Oxford Reference Online is an online subscription service offering fully searchable access to 100 of Oxford's dictionary and reference titles.
A New Dictionary of Eponyms
Jacquard   Jacquard is the name of an elaborate woven design found in tablecloth damask, bedspreads, and brocades. The weave gets its name from the Jacquard loom, on which flower designs or even pictures of men and women can be woven. The name jacquard is also used for a type of knitting that requires a machine somewhat like the Jacquard loom to make changes in color or design.

The invention of the Jacquard loom by Joseph Marie Jacquard (1752-1834), born in Lyons, France, simplified weaving, but it also cost thousands of silk workers their jobs. There was much turmoil, and Jacquard on one occasion was seized by an angry mob and barely escaped with his life. The problem subsided when Napoleon purchased the loom and declared it to be the property of the French state. The purchase hastened the lowering of silk prices, which, in turn, greatly improved the market for silk, and thus helped the reemployment of workers in that industry. In 1819 Jacquard was awarded a gold medal and the Cross of the Legion of Honour. The use of his loom spread to England in the 1820s and from there virtually worldwide.

The loom was so constructed that each warp thread could be raised or lowered. It thus became the first practical machine to weave intricate patterns. It was operated and controlled by punched cards, forerunners of those used with the modern computer.

Jacquard is a fabric woven by the jacquard method.




How to cite this entry:
"Jacquard"  A New Dictionary of Eponyms. Morton S. Freeman. Oxford University Press, 1997. Oxford Reference Online. Oxford University Press.  Derby University.  8 July 2005  <http://www.oxfordreference.com/views/ENTRY.html?subview=Main&entry=t31.e186>
 
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> Bjarne: Are you all really expecting a terrorist attack in Denmark? Or are
> you worried about that web post from the group who said they did the 
> English
> bombing, and threatened Denmark and Italy? It is easy to say anything on a
> web site. It is much harder to do something. Do you have a large Muslim
> population in Denmark?
>
> Gail Finke

Hi Gail,
I was thinking about the website that make these threats to Italy and 
Denmark.
We do have a large group of muslims living in Denmark, but i am not afraid 
of them, they are very friendly people and they just do their job like the 
rest of us. Maybe a few real extreme relligious people, but not much.
No i am getting more back to normal again, it is just that going away in a 
bomb attach would be the most stupid way to pass away, and that thoaght 
worries me. It is a horrified world we are living in today and i think it is 
only getting worse and worse.
Sorry no more groomings from me.

Bjarne

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Yes this is the one i ment, excactly. Thanks

Bjarne



> Bjarne, could the "large book...from Colonia Williamsburg" be "What 
> Clothes
> Reveal" by Linda Baumgarten?
>
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
> entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
> to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley
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but I was alway taught at college not to use seam rippers for slashes and 
buttinholes, as it takes extreme care to avoid going further than intended.  
(that said, I never had that problem.)

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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery for purses
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Shameless nothing!  Those are so beautiful Bjarne!  I know I'll be keeping an eye out on Ebay and if the budget allows, I get to acquire a Bjarne original...yipee :)
 
Chris G.

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
Hi,
I have uploaded 4 different embroideries for purses so that you can have a 
look. They need to be ironed, shameless of me, but i just wanted to hurry 
along.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm

Bjarne



		
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Oh my.  Those embroideries are lovely!
I can't wait until you put them up on ebay, Bjarne.
Michelle
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They are beautiful!
I like the fhirst one with the ribbon embroidery.

Greetings,
       Deredere


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> I have uploaded 4 different embroideries for purses so that you can 
> have a look. They need to be ironed, shameless of me, but i just 
> wanted to hurry along.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: Andrea McElwain <mevanwy@gmail.com>
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On 7/12/05, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> Hi,
> I have uploaded 4 different embroideries for purses so that you can have a
> look. They need to be ironed, shameless of me, but i just wanted to hurry
> along.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm
> 
> Bjarne


I'm drooling all over my keyboard now... those are absolutely gorgeous!

Andie

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery for purses
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At 11:51 AM 7/12/2005, you wrote:
>Hi,
>I have uploaded 4 different embroideries for purses so that you can 
>have a look. They need to be ironed, shameless of me, but i just 
>wanted to hurry along.
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm
>
>Bjarne

Very beautiful, Bjarne.  Are these your own designs?  They are very 
evocative of 18th and 19th century designs.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 12 16:51:07 2005
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Stunning as always...How much would you charge if I wanted just the piece not set into anything?  I have a plan...

--
Slan go foill
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri

Emer's Needle Wares


> Hi,
> I have uploaded 4 different embroideries for purses so that you can have a 
> look. They need to be ironed, shameless of me, but i just wanted to hurry 
> along.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 449
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:

> but I was alway taught at college not to use seam rippers for slashes
> and buttinholes, as it takes extreme care to avoid going further than
> intended.  (that said, I never had that problem.)

I start at one end with a seam ripper and work toward the center. Then I
start from the other end and work toward the center. It takes a little
practice to make sure the two lines meet straight, but it does eliminate
the problem of overshooting.

This is for buttonholes; I haven't done slashes.

--Robin


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Bjarne-
You're going to make some lucky people very happy.
              -Helen/Aidan
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 Bjarne:

Yes, I also think "what is the world coming to" more the older I get,
but also try to keep in mind that there has always been something out
there to fear might kill us.  Just think of what would have gone on if,
say, during the Black Death of 1347-51, there had been today's
technology and news media to cover it.

Plus, in those times, everyone was more aware that death could come at
any time, and quite suddenly. It is really with the advent of
sophisticated medical technology that those of us in industrialized
countries do expect to live long, healthy lives.

To keep this on a costuming bent, terrorists seem to have certain things
they like to wear(like many robbers, they like to wear hoods or ski
masks to hide their identity, and dress in dark colors or fatiques)and
perhaps other clothing will become popular or unpopular if a terrorist
is pictured wearing such.  And some of us may start wearing some kind of
anti-bomb protective clothing with no more thought than the fact we don
clothing to fit the seasons or a day's event.

Anyone want to speculate on Future Wear? For instance will fear of
developing skin cancer return us to wearing natural fabric clothing that
covers more of the body with hats and gloves becoming expected wear?
Will untanned skin become fashionable again as a sign you take the extra
time to hide your skin from the sun? Or will we continue to bare more
skin and use more sophisticated sunscreens, while persuing the ultimate
"safe" fake(healthy) tan?

Cindy Abel
cynthiaabel@creighton.edu 

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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery for purses
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You will have everyone on the list in a bidding war when you put them on eBay.  I have wanted something of your work for ages.  Let us know when to start bidding.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:

From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2005 20:51:49 +0200
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] embroidery for purses

Hi,
I have uploaded 4 different embroideries for purses so that you can have a 
look. They need to be ironed, shameless of me, but i just wanted to hurry 
along.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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At 09:04 AM 7/12/2005, you wrote:
>but I was alway taught at college not to use seam rippers for slashes and
>buttinholes, as it takes extreme care to avoid going further than intended.
>(that said, I never had that problem.)


I use a seam ripper for buttonholes, but I place a pin at the end I am 
aiming for to stop the ripper before going too far. It's worked for me so far!

As for long slashes, I either use an x-acto blade, or I use my rotary 
cutter, again with a pin at the end to stop the cutting. I tend to use the 
heavy quilt pins as they can take abuse better than my silk pins.

Kimiko


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You will have everyone on the list in a bidding war when you put them on eBay.  I have wanted something of your work for ages.  Let us know when to start bidding.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:

From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2005 20:51:49 +0200
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] embroidery for purses

Hi,
I have uploaded 4 different embroideries for purses so that you can have a 
look. They need to be ironed, shameless of me, but i just wanted to hurry 
along.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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> I forget if I mentioned this or not, but getting a long slash by putting
> one right after the other works, although it does tend to have a little
> jag where they meet--once the slash is properly fulled (by washing &
> tumble drying), this shouldn't be a problem.  But if using a fabric
> which cannot be washed, this might be an issue.

I plan on doing this on suede, so of course it won't get washed or fulled! 
But I don't want very long slashes anyway, and I think they make woodworking 
chisels long enough for what I want.

Thanks! 
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>>>Slashing with a 5/8" chisel worked very well--
>>
>>What did you use? A woodworking chisel, or a pinking chisel, or something 
>>made especially for slashing?
>
> I use both a pinking chisel like these:
> http://www.greenmanforge.com/

Hmm that might be interesting. Any idea why I should buy this over a wood 
chisel? 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Items of possible interest
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> That's a nice looking awl handle.   Do you know if they sell any of those 
> things individually?
>
> Marc
> (always looking to improve my collection of medieval shoemaking tools)

Which one are you referring to? The one at Historic Enterprises? If so, I 
think they sell everything separately, at least they used to, even if it's 
not always easy to find them on their website. 
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Subject: [h-cost] Portrait gallery
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Hi,

Here's a gallery of portraits that might interest some of you.

http://www2.ville.montreal.qc.ca/archives/portraits/
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*snort*
Silly teachers....If you've got the skill, why *not* use the tool? 
That's what they were designed for!
--sue, who generally prefers to use a single-edged razor blade for seams ;o)

Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:

> but I was alway taught at college not to use seam rippers for slashes and 
> buttinholes, as it takes extreme care to avoid going further than intended.  
> (that said, I never had that problem.)


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Subject: [h-cost] brocade / damask question
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uummm,,,,, 

Does anyone get the magazine 'Threads' ?

It has a short answer to the question - difference between brocade & damask??

Katheryne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] brocade / damask question
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In a message dated 7/12/2005 9:12:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
purplkat@optonline.net writes:

It has a  short answer to the question - difference between brocade &  
damask??



My short answer is a brocade has a raised pattern and a damask  doesn't.
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>  Only thing to be careful of is hitting too hard and
>splitting the wood, sending a sharp chisel shooting into one's thigh.
>This is pretty easy to prevent.
>
>Hi, All. If this is a concern, try using plywood to cut against. The cross layers will prevent the chisel from splitting the wood. If you only have regularly grained wood available, either make the cuts 90 degrees to the grain of the wood or work on another surface other than your lap to avoid injury. I would hate to see anyone get hurt in this manner...Mike T.  PS, if you have a blacksmith in your local SCA/reenactment group that can anneal/harden, they can help you create differently shaped pinking chisels by annealing the wood chisel, bending or filing the blade then re-tempering it. Good Luck and be safe, MJT
>  
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: pinking & chisels was Re: ???? Re: [h-cost] h-costume
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At 07:08 PM 7/12/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>>>>Slashing with a 5/8" chisel worked very well--
>>>
>>>What did you use? A woodworking chisel, or a pinking chisel, or 
>>>something made especially for slashing?
>>
>>I use both a pinking chisel like these:
>>http://www.greenmanforge.com/
>
>Hmm that might be interesting. Any idea why I should buy this over a wood 
>chisel?

They are made to look like extant examples so if you are in a situation 
(i.e. living history) where your use of the tool is on display, they are 
perfect.  Otherwise, I don't see much of a difference.  Unless of course 
you prefer the smaller size of the the repro one.  I got one just because 
they are really cool. : )

Cheers,
Danielle

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] brocade / damask question
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At 06:21 PM 7/12/2005, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 7/12/2005 9:12:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>purplkat@optonline.net writes:
>
>It has a  short answer to the question - difference between brocade &
>damask??
>
>My short answer is a brocade has a raised pattern and a damask  doesn't.

A brocade is a patterned fabric woven with a supplementary weft; if 
you remove the pattern threads the ground fabric is still intact.

Damask is more complex to define.  According to Sharon Alderman's 
"Mastering Weave Structures", 'Damask is a cloth having satin and 
sateen areas on the same face' (page 69). Satin is warp-faced, with 
almost no weft showing; sateen is the opposite, weft-faced with 
almost no warp showing. No supplementary weft is used.  The basic 
weaves are complex twills with 5 or more shafts.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: [h-cost] Clothing protection from the sun (was Re: bjarne)
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At 03:21 PM 7/12/2005, you wrote:
<<snip>>
>Anyone want to speculate on Future Wear? For instance will fear of
>developing skin cancer return us to wearing natural fabric clothing that
>covers more of the body with hats and gloves becoming expected wear?
><snip>>
>
>Cindy Abel
>cynthiaabel@creighton.edu


While I won't speculate about future wear, the comment about wearing 
cottons and other natural fiber clothing reminded me of something I found 
recently while looking at the Rit Dye site online, and that is their Rit 
Sunguard. http://www.ritdye.com/sun_guard/

"Rit® Sun GuardTMLaundry treatment works by putting a colorless agent into 
clothing that absorbs UV rays so that they do not pass through your 
clothes. You can’t see it, feel it or smell it, but it works invisibly to 
protect from the damaging UVA and UVB rays from the sun."

I am going to try this myself on my family's linen shifts and chemises for 
faire (and some regular clothes as well). While most of our bodies are well 
covered, I know our arms (when sleeves are off) and upper chest are not. 
Handkerchief weight linen is rather transparent, so anything that helps 
reduce burns on our bodies will be greatly appreciated. I should also add 
this to my lightweight partlets as well, to reduce that odd-shaped tanned 
breast area that tends to show up every summer after faires.

The company states that this product doesn't change the way material looks, 
smells or feels, so it is worth a try in my book, especially since I live 
in sunny central California where today we got 100+, and expecting hotter 
the rest of the week. Needless to say I stay indoors a lot during the 
summer, and we do wear hats outside.

And yes, I am a bit paranoid as a mom. I used to worship the sun when I was 
a teen, and now wonder if that was a fatal mistake, that I don't want to 
repeat with my kids. Thankfully, I rarely burned as I have oriental skin 
that browned nicely, but the danger is worse today.

Kimiko

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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: seam ripper/slash maker
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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If you put a straight pin cross wise at the end of the
slash line wouldn't that act as a stopper, so you
couldn't slash past the desired length?
 Melody
--- Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:

> but I was alway taught at college not to use seam
> rippers for slashes and 
> buttinholes, as it takes extreme care to avoid going
> further than intended.  
> (that said, I never had that problem.)
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 



		
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"Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu> writes:
>
> For instance will fear of developing skin cancer return us to wearing
> natural fabric clothing that covers more of the body with hats and
> gloves becoming expected wear?

As a slowly balding guy, I can only hope that hats make a comeback.  And
as a red-blooded guy, I can only hope that women's gloves come back:-)

> Will untanned skin become fashionable again as a sign you take the
> extra time to hide your skin from the sun?

One can only hope so.  There's nothing quite so pretty as a fair-skinned
girl with a rosy blush to her cheeks!

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
According to the latest poll, 60 percent of Americans want
Al Gore to concede the election.  The other 40 percent are
lawyers working for Al Gore.                   --Jay Leno

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Robert Uhl wrote:

>> <>As a slowly balding guy, I can only hope that hats make a comeback. And
>> as a red-blooded guy, I can only hope that women's gloves come back:-)
>>

Ok, gloves? 
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Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 08:43:27 -0400
From: Irmgart <irmgart@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]
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Status: RO

I've found that rolling cutters work well on both fabric and
leather... use a straight edge.

Examples:

http://bordervalekeep.crosswinds.net/Images/Irmgart/DSC00417a.jpg

http://pics.livejournal.com/thalionar/pic/00024e10

(he thinks he's fully dressed in this picture... I was in the kitchen
so didn't get a chance to "fix" him before he went out in public. He's
missing his garters.. Also, the doublet is after he'd fenced in it.
It's in the process of being replaced. Believe me, I was *steamed*
when I saw it trashed the first time!)

-Irmgart

On 7/12/05, michael tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote:
> 
> >  Only thing to be careful of is hitting too hard and
> >splitting the wood, sending a sharp chisel shooting into one's thigh.
> >This is pretty easy to prevent.
> >
> >Hi, All. If this is a concern, try using plywood to cut against. The cross layers will prevent the chisel from splitting the wood. If you only have regularly grained wood available, either make the cuts 90 degrees to the grain of the wood or work on another surface other than your lap to avoid injury. I would hate to see anyone get hurt in this manner...Mike T.  PS, if you have a blacksmith in your local SCA/reenactment group that can anneal/harden, they can help you create differently shaped pinking chisels by annealing the wood chisel, bending or filing the blade then re-tempering it. Good Luck and be safe, MJT
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Irmgart, when I clicked on the 2nd link, I got an odd error 
message--something along the lines of "Forbidden: you do not have 
permission to view this picture."
--sue

Irmgart wrote:
> I've found that rolling cutters work well on both fabric and
> leather... use a straight edge.
> 
> Examples:
> 
> http://bordervalekeep.crosswinds.net/Images/Irmgart/DSC00417a.jpg
> 
> http://pics.livejournal.com/thalionar/pic/00024e10
> 
> (he thinks he's fully dressed in this picture... I was in the kitchen
> so didn't get a chance to "fix" him before he went out in public. He's
> missing his garters.. Also, the doublet is after he'd fenced in it.
> It's in the process of being replaced. Believe me, I was *steamed*
> when I saw it trashed the first time!)

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Subject: [h-cost] Seam Rippers
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> but I was alway taught at college not to use seam rippers for slashes
> and buttinholes, as it takes extreme care to avoid going further
than
> intended.  (that said, I never had that problem.)

I start at one end with a seam ripper and work toward the center. Then
I
start from the other end and work toward the center. It takes a little
practice to make sure the two lines meet straight, but it does
eliminate
the problem of overshooting.

This is for buttonholes; I haven't done slashes.

--Robin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I had used a seam ripper on tons of buttons holes with no problems,
then I slipped, once.  That was all it took.  Now I put a large pin at
the end of the buttonhole and 'rip' toward it.  Pins on either end of
the line might help.

And Bjarne, the embroidery is absolutley gorgeous!!!!

Catherine
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Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 06:05:46 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]
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At 05:43 AM 7/13/2005, you wrote:
>I've found that rolling cutters work well on both fabric and
>leather... use a straight edge.
>
>Examples:
>
>http://bordervalekeep.crosswinds.net/Images/Irmgart/DSC00417a.jpg
>
>http://pics.livejournal.com/thalionar/pic/00024e10
>
>(he thinks he's fully dressed in this picture... I was in the kitchen
>so didn't get a chance to "fix" him before he went out in public. He's
>missing his garters.. Also, the doublet is after he'd fenced in it.
>It's in the process of being replaced. Believe me, I was *steamed*
>when I saw it trashed the first time!)
>
>-Irmgart

I was not able to view the livejournal picture. I received a "not 
authorized" message.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 13 10:41:50 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Going round in circles... (The T-shirts and pants things)
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Coming back to the thread on "droopy drawers" for the moment, The one thing 
the droopy drawers (I mean, jeans) -- worn most frequently with 
knee-length, greatly-oversized T-shirts (or sports jerseys, or tanks, 
or...) -- reminds me of is, all the threads on this list and others about 
shirtes and trews. I have to chuckle at these young kids going around in 
what looks like their (somewhat updated!) underwear!

Then again, we've had the "camisole top", "chemise dress", and "slip 
skirt/petticoat skirt" trends going in and out of style for young women 
over the past 25 years or so, that it's probably about time for young men 
to go around in "underwear-as-outerwear"...

OTTH, the first time I saw **T-shirts** that oversized in style, they were 
shown in a junior/misses/women's ("Hey, tourist gal! Buy this as a souvenir 
of Miami Beach, 1980!") shop, one side knotted up at just-below-crotch 
height, worn either as a beach coverup or over leggings.

The thing that really bugs me about current styles, though -- other than 
the "I have a loaded diaper under my pants" look -- are the super-low-cuts 
that require the wearer shave or wax off *everything* below the navel and 
make even the slimmest of women look pregnant.

Worse, I think this look triggers anorexia since some of the slim teens and 
young women who have bought into this look show up on health-and-fitness 
sites such as SELF magazine's "healthy eating forum" severely underweight 
and asking how to lose weight to get rid of their "pooch" (natural belly 
curvature). An interesting side-note is that to my eyes, the media only 
seem to acknowledge anorexia nervosa (which I understand to be a continuing 
problem among women at least going back to the 1920's and probably back to 
Victorian days, if not further) when the current style for females is for 
hip-huggers/low-riders/"waistline"-exposes-part-of-the-belly slacks...

Then again, given the choice of seeing large numbers of obese women who 
think they look fine in tight-fitting, belly-exposing tank-tops with 
super-low-slung jeans, or those obese women being afraid to go out in 
public because they believe they *don't* look fine in any sort of modern 
clothes (and therefore stress-eat themselves into even worse obesity)... 
viewing the exposed bellies has *got* to be the better choice...



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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To: h-costume@net.indra.com
From: Robert Uhl <eadmund42@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 08:39:38 -0600
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J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net> writes:
>
>> As a slowly balding guy, I can only hope that hats make a
>> comeback. And as a red-blooded guy, I can only hope that women's
>> gloves come back:-)
>
> Ok, gloves?

They're cute, that's all.  Which is something I don't get about most
modern business clothing.  The entire purpose of clothing is to make one
attractive, and yet there are few things less attractive than business
casual for both men & women.

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
Modern art is what happens when painters stop looking at girls and
persuade themselves that they have a better idea.    --John Ciardi

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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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Robert Uhl wrote:

>They're cute, that's all.  Which is something I don't get about most
>modern business clothing.  The entire purpose of clothing is to make one
>attractive, and yet there are few things less attractive than business
>casual for both men & women.
>
>  
>
That is something that i can DEFINITLY agree with you on.  I am a 
teacher and i useally look "overdressed" at work  because i can't stand 
khakies and such. 

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Just gorgeous.  Any idea how much you plan on selling them for...and what that would equal in US dollars?

Julie

> Hi, I have uploaded 4 different embroideries for purses so that you can have a look. 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews

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On Wed, 13 Jul 2005, Robert Uhl wrote:

> ...  Which is something I don't get about most modern business
> clothing.  The entire purpose of clothing is to make one attractive,
> and yet there are few things less attractive than business casual for
> both men & women.

I can think of plenty of purposes of clothing other than making one
attractive. In a business setting, in particular, there are many
situations in which a woman does not want to look "attractive" because she
is taken less seriously or is assumed to be sending sexual signals.
Competent, professional, tidy, tasteful, yes. Attractive, definitely not.
And men typically do not find any need to look "attractive" at work; men
who go out of their way to look attractive may be seen as interested in
something other than getting business accomplished.

Deborah Tannen has written some interesting things about the linguistic
concept of "marking" and business clothing.  In language, "marking" is the
addition of a suffix or other element to a word to indicate gender or
another quality, e.g. the generic "poet" plus a marker becomes "poetess"
and in turn signals certain qualities. She notes that in business
settings, men have the option of dressing in an "unmarked" fashion -- that
is, neutrally, so that nothing about their clothing stands out or makes a
statement about them. In the average office setting this might mean a grey
suit and conservative tie, or a blue blazer and khakis, or whatever is
considered the norm. They can add to that -- an arty tie, red socks, etc.
-- or choose something else entirely, if they wish to use the clothing to
make a statement. Women, however, have no "unmarked" option in this
setting, because whatever they wear is interpreted (accurately or not) as
meaning something. If they wear the female equivalent to the man's suit,
it's read as sending a signal of (at the least) their intent to fit in, or
to seek power, or to be "masculine," or any of a number of other things.
Women's clothing can be variously "cute" or "sexy" or "frumpy" or a
variety of other things. Makeup sends signals; the lack of it sends a
signal. Short skirts send one signal, longish ones send another. And so
forth.

In some social settings, this is true as well -- men can rent generic
tuxes (which they may or may not choose to differentiate in some
individual way) but there's no such thing as a generic evening gown.

To bring this back to historic clothing, it strikes me that in many of the
periods we discuss here, both men and women's fashions were "marked," at
least on the upper-class level; there wasn't always a "generic" that all
men (or all women) could wear that would not send a signal. I think I'm
only beginning to recognize some of the clothing signals that would have
been evident to the period viewer in my eras of study. I know a scholar
who has done two books so far on the significance of the clothing
descriptions on Chaucer's general prologue to the Canterbury Tales, if you
want a good set of examples of cues that the medieval reader would have
found significant. 

--Robin


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Irmgart wrote:

> I've found that rolling cutters work well on both fabric and
> leather... use a straight edge.
> 
> Examples:
> 
> http://bordervalekeep.crosswinds.net/Images/Irmgart/DSC00417a.jpg
> 

What is that on your head? I can't quite make out the style of headwear. 
  Just curious, as I think headwear *makes* the costume, and I'm always 
looking at new styles for historic wear.



Dawn

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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Defensive costuming
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And I've been known to refer to a steel-boned corset as my "brigantine". 
> :-)
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net

 
Your brigantine???
....
Er - what is the connection between a woman's steel-boned  undergarment, - and a two masted, sailing cargo-ship - square-rigged on the foremast, and fore-&-aft-rigged on the main mast  
Sorry, but I had to ask   :-)>




Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
		
---------------------------------
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>l, yes. Attractive, definitely not.
>And men typically do not find any need to look "attractive" at work; men
>who go out of their way to look attractive may be seen as interested in
>something other than getting business accomplished.
>  
>
There is "attractiveness" that is not a come-on.  Many men and women 
find it important, even required, to look attractive at work.  A company 
dress code, official or unofficial, boils down to presenting the image 
the company wants to present, or which that department of the company 
wants to present.

Obviously, people connected with the fashion industry in any way tend to 
dress fashionably, at least if and when they "meet the public."  
Professionals in the performing arts do their best to look attractive, 
or at least off-beat, because appearance is an important part of those 
jobs.  From my observation, most people who do much face-to-face 
marketing or sales dress noticeably well and are well groomed, and are 
often naturally handsomer/prettier than average. Corporate CEOs, even of 
companies like computer firms where people tend to dress down, tend to 
look very sharp. Their job involves representing the company as well as 
running it, and their personal image has to display success.

And, many other people.  In my last not-working-for-myself full-time job 
as a senior editor for a midsize book publisher, I (and other editors 
above the copy editor level) were officially required to dress up 
because we regularly "met with authors."  I went to work every day in 
high-fashion clothes (never suits, which were viewed as acceptable but 
dowdy). Any female editor at any level who wore pants at that company 
got reprimanded (except one who was officially excused because she had 
nasty scars on her legs from an accident).   As was any editor of any 
gender who wore what they defined as a T-shirt. Not a T-shirt cut per 
se; I wore silk T-shirts; the editor-in-chief thought a T-shirt was a 
cotton knit.  Male editors had to wear suits; "slacks" were not allowed; 
the pants had to be suit pants.  They went in for the tweedy English 
professor look.

>She notes that in business
>settings, men have the option of dressing in an "unmarked" fashion -- that
>is, neutrally, so that nothing about their clothing stands out or makes a
>statement about them. In the average office setting this might mean a grey
>suit and conservative tie, or a blue blazer and khakis, or whatever is
>considered the norm.
>
I think women tend to assume that men's clothes and appearance don't 
matter as much, because they're not men. Also, men are culturally 
encouraged to say they don't care about appearance. But that doesn't 
mean they don't, or that it does not affect their jobs.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>  
>
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whoops!

Correct link for first pic (forgot that it was locked):
http://www.freewebs.com/irmgart/wilhelm.jpg

As to what is on my head:

something along these lines:
http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOneZoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&viewMode=1&item=11.15

And a caul made out of a yellow jaquard (same as the guards on the
skirt) and more red velveteen. Unfortunately, the hat wasn't stiff
enough (I didn't interline it with anything) so it's being stiffened
with corsage pins.

-Irmgart

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Joan wrote:
> And I've been known to refer to a steel-boned corset as my "brigantine". 

julian wilson wrote:
> Er - what is the connection between a woman's steel-boned
> undergarment, - and a two masted, sailing cargo-ship - square-rigged
> on the foremast, and fore-&-aft-rigged on the main mast?

An understandable confusion between the T in the word for the ship, and 
the D in the word for the plate/scale armor.

Main Entry: brig·an·tine
Pronunciation: 'bri-g&n-"tEn
Function: noun
Etymology: Middle French brigantin, from Old Italian brigantino, from 
brigante
: a 2-masted sailing ship that is square-rigged except for a 
fore-and-aft mainsail

Main Entry: brig·an·dine
Pronunciation: 'bri-g&n-"dEn
Function: noun
Etymology: Middle English, from Middle French, from brigand
: medieval body armor of scales or plates

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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----- Original Message -----
From: "J Schueller" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)


> Robert Uhl wrote:
>
> >They're cute, that's all.  Which is something I don't get about most
> >modern business clothing.  The entire purpose of clothing is to make one
> >attractive, and yet there are few things less attractive than business
> >casual for both men & women.
> >
> >
> >
> That is something that i can DEFINITLY agree with you on.  I am a
> teacher and i useally look "overdressed" at work  because i can't stand
> khakies and such.

My husband's place of employment is slowly swinging in the other
direction--they just sent down a new rule that jeans and khakis are no
longer acceptable dress during the week--and this is a cluster of radio
stations, which normally tend to be quite casual. I did notice, though, that
I have never seen the program director without a suit and tie.

Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!

Dianne
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The purpose of clothing
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Fran quoted me as saying:
> 
> >l, yes. Attractive, definitely not.

and responded:

> There is "attractiveness" that is not a come-on....

with examples such as:
> dress noticeably well and are well groomed
> look very sharp
> display success.
> high-fashion clothes

We are not in disagreement. That was the exactly the distinction I was
making when I clarified my use of "attractive" in my original quote, which
you snipped:

> In a business setting, in particular, there are many situations in
> which a woman does not want to look "attractive" because she is taken
> less seriously or is assumed to be sending sexual signals. Competent,
> professional, tidy, tasteful, yes. Attractive, definitely not.

The original poster talked about how he liked gloves on women for
aesthetic reasons and then commented that "the entire purpose of clothing
is to make one attractive," which he felt business clothing does not do.
That struck me as a much narrower definition of "attractive," which I
maintained in my response. Your points make perfect sense for a broader
definition, but that was not the one I was discussing.

I also was speaking specifically of the "business casual" clothing that
the original poster cited (as I quoted). This is not relevant to all
professional settings; as you mention, fields such as performing arts,
fashion, and sales have particular cultures that are reflected in their
clothing expectations, and my statements did not refer to that.

In the offices I've worked in, it was the secretaries and lower-level
assistants that wore the snazzy hairstyles, trendy jewelry, shorter
skirts, figure-flattering tops, and the like. The higher the level, the
more sober the women dressed -- definitely well-groomed and successful,
but not at all "attractive" in the narrower sense. I learned early on that
the degree to which I got hit on at the office was directly proportional
to the "attractiveness" of my clothing. It is very hard to work with
people who are looking at you rather than your work. I learned to dress in
a way to give off a "hands off" signal, which is in fact the exact
opposite of "attractive" in the narrower sense.

Perhaps things have changed in the last 10 years, but I don't hold out a
lot of hope on that.

--Robin




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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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> 
> Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!
> 
> Dianne
>>
>> _______________________________________________
Sure, i agree wholehardedly with this!

Bjarne

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From: "Rhonda Donaldson" <rdonalds@wvu.edu>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
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Hey everyone,

I have to agree with Suzi.  I don't wash my velvets before or after I
sew...it seems to mess with the pyle/pile.  ok, it gets funky after it's
washed; however gently.  

Just my 4 cents (inflation + GW Bush, ya Know)

Rhonda

Rhonda Donaldson
LTA II
e-Reserves Jr. Guru in Training
Circulation Department
Downtown Campus Library
P O Box 6069
Morgantown, WV
26506
293-4040 x4094
rhonda.donaldson@mail.wvu.edu

"Without change, something sleeps inside us, and seldom
awakens. The sleeper must awaken."
--Frank Herbert

"The future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their
dreams."
- Eleanor Roosevelt



>>> suziclarkeuk-mail@suziclarke.co.uk 7/11/2005 3:15:10 AM >>>

At 04:36 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>Why do you want to wash it? I never, ever wash velvet, (of any kind)
and
>the suppliers here in England are horrifeid at the thought. I don't
see the
>point of buying a fabric for its look and feel, then washing it to
change
>that.
>
>Suzi in London


I wash my cotton velveteens and cotton velvets all the time. Why? To
allow 
me to clean it at home, with gentle detergent and rinse, and then hang
to 
dry. Otherwise, my costumes would cost a fortune to keep dry cleaned,
not 
to mention all the trims I would have to remove first as dry cleaners
here 
mangle or melt them.

If I am using velvet it is  for an elaborate gown, covered with trims,
and
totally unsuitable for washing. I have customers from 20 years ago who
have
only had their costumes dry cleaned, and they are in excellent
condition,
no melting or mangling. Obviously it takes all sorts.

Not to mention that some of the velvets I have purchased have the
nastiest 
hand before wash (all the treatments), and soften up nicely after
wash.

I have never had to buy velvets that I didn't like the hand of - I
don't
give customers those to sample!! And the rayons here are not really
shiny
at all. However, the so-called silk velvets are really nasty looking,
and
expensive, but usually look cheap!! I won't touch them at all. Isn't
it
fascinating how different our experiences qwith fabrics are?

Suzi in London

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 13 14:27:39 2005
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I've also spent a lot of time as a technical writer in computer 
cultures, where, below the higher management levels, appearance is 
downplayed.  I was generally one of the best-dressed female employees, 
as well dressed as any of the secretaries and better than some.  I was 
even told by one freelance writer who always wore old jeans and dirty 
blouses, and who had worked at many companies, that good appearance was 
harmful to a career at all associated with technical work. 

But I always found it to be the opposite. In a culture that downplays 
appearance you can wear pretty much what you want (as long as it's not 
super-extreme offbeat; but I even worked with one programmer who 
apparently never either bathed or washed his clothes; he reeked).  That 
includes looking fashionable. And also, no, although my co-workers were 
predominately male (at one company there were only three full-time 
female employees including me), they weren't hitting on me.  And 
although never model material, I've always had average good looks.  
Everybody was far more interested in getting their work done than in 
socializing.

As someone who's been married (to the same person) her entire adult life 
(since I was 18) and never worn a wedding or engagement ring, I think 
being hit on is largely a matter of the signals you send off (on purpose 
or not).  And by signals, I don't just mean clothes.  If you tell people 
you're married, and don't act available, they understand you're not 
available and that's that.  Besides, these days people are afraid of 
getting sued for sexual harrassment if they hit on someone in the office.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

<snip>

>In the offices I've worked in, it was the secretaries and lower-level
>assistants that wore the snazzy hairstyles, trendy jewelry, shorter
>skirts, figure-flattering tops, and the like. The higher the level, the
>more sober the women dressed -- definitely well-groomed and successful,
>but not at all "attractive" in the narrower sense. I learned early on that
>the degree to which I got hit on at the office was directly proportional
>to the "attractiveness" of my clothing. It is very hard to work with
>people who are looking at you rather than your work. 
>  
>
<snip>

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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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Well, at my wedding this past weekend I kept wondering who that drop-dead gorgeous broad shouldered, blond haired back belonged to ... then remembering it was my HUSBAND!

That was the first time I had seen him in a tux... DDDRRROOOOOOLLLL...... 

Of course he kept drooling on my 1940's vintage hoop skirted dress.

Katheryne

---------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 12:51:09 -0400
From: Dianne and Greg <goofy1@suscom.net>

Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!

Dianne

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] embroidered purses
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Hi all,
You have ben most generous with your interesse in my embroidered purses. I 
thank you a million times.
Guess i could sell some then.
I now have started to make some embroidered with silk all the way. Those i 
have shown you are mixed, some with cotton. But i now have had the Gumnut 
Yarns from Australia wich i can use for the bullion roses, and Gumnut Yarns 
are pure hand dyed silk threads.
I plan to sell the mixed fiber ones for about 80 dollars included postage 
for USA. The purses will be lined with soft silk satin, and i plan to make 
them with eylet holes and lacing in the top.
For the pure silk embroidered, i will charge 120 dollars because i have 
imported from many different countries with the silk threads, and i had to 
pay extra taxes to get them.
When i get there, i will let you know when they are ready to be shipped.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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LOL! Oh my, yes! And it doesn't mean he has to be a buff guy either.
Well-dressed, well-groomed guys are nice eye candy. 

Arlys

On Wed, 13 Jul 2005 20:20:49 +0200 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> 
> > 
> > Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? 
> Rarr!
> > 
> > Dianne
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> Sure, i agree wholehardedly with this!
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <6b.48faf9c7.30054406@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 449
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> but I was alway taught at college not to use seam rippers for slashes and
> buttinholes, as it takes extreme care to avoid going further than 
> intended.
> (that said, I never had that problem.)

I was taught the opposite in my sewing books :-) They tell to just put a 
needle at the end of the slit to make sure you don't cut too far. 
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Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 17:36:59 -0400
From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 449
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    I was taught not to use rippers for anything, and I don't.  Nippers are
far more effective, and easily controlled.  Button hole chisels on the other
hand are a dream!

Ron Carnegie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
> Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 4:24 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 449
>
>
> > but I was alway taught at college not to use seam rippers for
> slashes and
> > buttinholes, as it takes extreme care to avoid going further than
> > intended.
> > (that said, I never had that problem.)
>
> I was taught the opposite in my sewing books :-) They tell to just put a
> needle at the end of the slit to make sure you don't cut too far.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 13 19:02:13 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: "Future clothing"
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Status: RO

What will be interesting will be to examine our ideas of what clothing will 
be like 20 years from now, 20-30 years from now to see how far off the mark 
we were...

Back in grade school, when we still had weekly "Assembly" marked by 
performances from each class in the grade (each week a different class), 
one of the classes put on a "history of fashion" show. I recall this being 
during the 1967-68 school year, and the group of classes was first- and 
second-graders (6-, 7-, and 8-year-olds). The show ended with a look at 
"fashions of the future" which, for the purpose of the presentation, was 
approximately 1980. The two girls modelling this "look" were wearing 
metallic-looking clothes (I believe one had on a jumper of silvery 
bonded-knit lamé, with a gold large-link chain belt worn at hip-level).

Around us, the NASA space program was in full-swing and we fully expected 
to be able to travel to the Moon and Mars easily within our lifetimes -- 
the cartoon program _The Jetsons_ was a very plausible "future reality" for 
us. The metallics represented the future for us, space travel and space 
suits and the idea of these lines and fabrics trickling down into everyday 
apparel.

As it turned out, the only element of that grade-school "fashion show" that 
was "prescient" about 1980 is that we still had some below-the-waist styles 
of lower-garments -- hip-huggers had not yet died out completely. On the 
other hand, George Jetson's front-ladder-laced polo shirt is little more 
than a solid-color version of the broad-striped "rugby shirt" of the 
'seventies and early 'eighties, or today's ubiquitous polo shirt -- and the 
highly-structured collars and shoulder treatments of Jane and Judy Jetsons' 
dresses survived, morphed into the ultra-broad-shouldered, structured and 
highly-graphically-oriented "power suits" Bob Mackie created for the 
"Alexis Carrington Colby" character in _Dynasty_.

Some of the more dystopic looks at the future would have had us all in "Mao 
suits" by now; yet the women's "power suit" of the '80's (ref John T. 
Malloy, "The Women's Dress for Success Book") is almost impossible to find 
in a modern cut and many workplaces encourage creativity in 
self-presentation to a degree that would have seemed unthinkable even a 
deacade ago.

So... camoflage "Mao" suits with metal plate interlinings? Shirts and 
shifts because nobody can afford outer garments (except the very rich)? 
All-natural fibers? All synthetic fibers? Holographically-projected 
clothing (now *there's* "The Emperor's New Suit of Clothes" for ya...)

Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Future clothing"
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Status: RO

Something retro.  The fashion industry has been mining retro (or 
history) since, heck, since about 1800.  Maybe 20 years from now, the 
1980s, 1990s, and early 2000s all mixed together?  30 years from now, 
they can start swiping from some years later in the 2000s.

Maybe they can do the Geek Look.  Recalling the glamorous years of being 
able to make (or lose) a killing in high-tech start-up stocks.  Of 
course, the really distinctive geek accessories were old-fashioned by 
the 1980s--the plastic reinforcer for the ballpoint pen in the shirt 
pocket, the stack of punch cards, and thick glasses.  But I could see 
them being labeled 1980s-90s anyway.

On the other hand, maybe it'll be time to revive the Punk Look. 

It'll still be ready-to-wear, probably mostly made in countries where 
labor is cheaper, and relatively comfortable and practical. Meaning, 
even though high heels might be worn, I don't see boned hoopskirts or 
bustles as such ever coming back as long as the RTW industry 
predominates.  Maybe some kind of poofy skirt style, but not the real thing.

There might be some new synthetics, but I'd wonder _how_ new.  I'm not a 
textile expert, but a number of the "new" ones now seem to be minor 
variants on rayon, polyester, and--Lycra?  What is the forerunner of 
Spandex?  Maybe there will be a new textile that provides extra sun 
protection?

In other words, I see fashion evolving along the same lines it's been 
evolving in for some time.  I could see some sort of new electronics 
that would spur a need for special pockets in clothing and purses.  
Maybe a combination small personal computer (but the monitor would be 
terribly small, unless you could magnify the image) and picture cell phone.

As for nanotech within the human body, I don't see it happening except 
for people who are fatally ill or otherwise medically desperate, for 
whom it is worth the substantial risks.  If you've ever had a few 
problems with your Miscrosoft programs, can you imagine what buggy 
software could do INSIDE YOU?

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com



Brenda Bell wrote:

> What will be interesting will be to examine our ideas of what clothing 
> will be like 20 years from now, 20-30 years from now to see how far 
> off the mark we were...
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going round in circles... (The T-shirts and pants things)
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At 07:40 AM 7/13/2005, you wrote:
>or those obese women being afraid to go out in public because they believe 
>they *don't* look fine in any sort of modern clothes (and therefore 
>stress-eat themselves into even worse obesity)... viewing the exposed 
>bellies has *got* to be the better choice...


As an obese woman (200+) who is currently pregnant and have a toddler to 
deal with, I don't go out a lot (especially in summertime when it's 100+ 
out). When I do go out, I don't wear the current fashions or bother trying 
to deal with current fashions. I am working on figuring out my own fashion 
sense of style and have come to accept this body, for all its lumps, bumps, 
and current back pains (pregnancy isn't grand sometimes). This is why I 
appreciate being able to sew my own garments.

But I am glad that larger fashions for us larger women are actually looking 
decent for a change, and not just a larger version of a thin fashion 
maker's idea of beautiful. Larger women are designing clothes made to fit 
and be attractive on larger women, and I am so thankful for that.

But I would still rather have fun with historical fashions. While I may not 
fit the "ideal" thinnness of those times either (depending on time frame), 
to my eye, they are much more attractive in many ways than the current 
loose-fit-rectangular-tube-on-a-stick fashions of today.

But that's my thoughts, and everyone's will be different. :-)

Kimiko

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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Future clothing"
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Wed, 13 Jul 2005 17:08:32 -0700, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:

>Something retro.  The fashion industry has been mining retro (or history) 
>since, heck, since about 1800.  Maybe 20 years from now, the 1980s, 1990s, 
>and early 2000s all mixed together?  30 years from now, they can start 
>swiping from some years later in the 2000s.

That sounds a lot like what the '90's were like... 40's shoulder pads, 50's 
"crinoline" skirts, and... hmm... some of the Mod and Rocker looks of the 
60's/early 70's, plus add in the 50's "biker" look (often redone in black 
as "punk") and the "Goth" look...

>Maybe they can do the Geek Look.  Recalling the glamorous years of being 
>able to make (or lose) a killing in high-tech start-up stocks.  Of course, 
>the really distinctive geek accessories were old-fashioned by the 
>1980s--the plastic reinforcer for the ballpoint pen in the shirt pocket, 
>the stack of punch cards, and thick glasses.  But I could see them being 
>labeled 1980s-90s anyway.

The pocket protector would hold your iPod or your Smart Phone... Geek 
glasses almost seem to be back, but for women. Then there were the 
high-water pants worn with mismatched sweat socks, the crew-necked 
undershirt sticking out the unbuttoned collar of the shirt... In short, the 
"Are You a Nerd?" poster of circa 1980 that was marketed alongside the "Are 
You a Preppy?" (male and female versions) posters. FWIW, the one on my door 
was the "Are You A JAP?" version -- while *I* wasn't, I grew up in a town 
where most of the Conservative and Reformed Jewish girls... *were*.

I notice Lord & Taylor has had a lot of Scooter Skirts this spring/summer. 
'Course there's another name for it now...

>There might be some new synthetics, but I'd wonder _how_ new.  I'm not a 
>textile expert, but a number of the "new" ones now seem to be minor 
>variants on rayon, polyester, and--Lycra?  What is the forerunner of 
>Spandex?  Maybe there will be a new textile that provides extra sun protection?

One of the very interesting new fibers that's being worked with is 
Holofiber, which IIRC aligns microprisms in a polyester matrix. It conducts 
light of certain wavelengths from the outside surface of the fabric to the 
inside; at current, it is used mostly in specialized medical applications 
(wound healing).

>In other words, I see fashion evolving along the same lines it's been 
>evolving in for some time.  I could see some sort of new electronics that 
>would spur a need for special pockets in clothing and purses.

Checkout the clothing sold at http://www.scottevest.com -- they've been 
doing hidden/specialty pockets for years, now!

>Maybe a combination small personal computer (but the monitor would be 
>terribly small, unless you could magnify the image) and picture cell phone.

What I've seen people talking about is a HUD that displays on your 
spectacles (think of "Augur's" specialized glasses in _Earth: Final 
Conflict_)...

>As for nanotech within the human body, I don't see it happening except for 
>people who are fatally ill or otherwise medically desperate, for whom it 
>is worth the substantial risks.  If you've ever had a few problems with 
>your Miscrosoft programs, can you imagine what buggy software could do 
>INSIDE YOU?

Hey, most humans already *have* "buggy software" inside them. Otherwise, 
how would you account for genetically-based diseases, cancers, even such 
common medical problems as bunions and Metabolic Syndrome?

Though I should certainly hate to have to believe that Mr. Gates and Mr. 
Ballmer are G-d and Jesus rolled into one...

Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 15:24:26 +1000
Subject: Re: [h-cost] brocade / damask question
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Sorry to hijack your topic, but I've got a question on the same topic - 
I'm about to make an upper-class Elizabethan Gown and am looking
for a lovely rich brocade to use in earthy colour combinations - can 
anyone recommend a place online that I might go to that would have a 
design that is close to period accurate and is of a natural fibre? Also 
which is better/cheaper to buy, use and sew - linen/silk or linen/wool 
blend?
Many thanks, Aylwen

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>
> The pocket protector would hold your iPod or your Smart Phone... Geek 
> glasses almost seem to be back, but for women. Then there were the 
> high-water pants worn with mismatched sweat socks, the crew-necked 
> undershirt sticking out the unbuttoned collar of the shirt...

Hey, my husband still wears the crew-necked white undershirt sticking 
out of the shirt neck. Though I made him quit wearing intentionally 
mismatched (loud) socks years ago.  Also, he quit wearing sandals to 
work when they promoted him to management.

> What I've seen people talking about is a HUD that displays on your 
> spectacles (think of "Augur's" specialized glasses in _Earth: Final 
> Conflict_)...

If you mean a computer display on the glasses, there is some guy who 
designed them and is wearing them regularly to prove someone can. It 
would drive me nuts.

>
> Hey, most humans already *have* "buggy software" inside them. 
> Otherwise, how would you account for genetically-based diseases, 
> cancers, even such common medical problems as bunions and Metabolic 
> Syndrome?

Yeah, but why make the problem worse by uploading someone's buggy 
software just so you can make fashion statements like growing an extra 
nose this week or covering yourself with green body hair? 

> Though I should certainly hate to have to believe that Mr. Gates and 
> Mr. Ballmer are G-d and Jesus rolled into one...
>
>
Nah, they're more powerful.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 23:51:56 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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>Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!

Men have to be a little on the thin side for a suit to look that 
good.  Suits bulk out the man with a good bathing-suit-physique, and he 
looks, well, bulky.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Men in suits (was: Future ware(gloves)
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> Men have to be a little on the thin side for a suit to look that
> good.  Suits bulk out the man with a good bathing-suit-physique, and he 
> looks, well, bulky.
>
>
>        CarolynKayta Barrows

I disagree.  I have yet to find a man, of whatever physique, who doesn't 
look good in a suit.  This includes a good friend who's at least 100 lbs 
overweight.

Melusine 

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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 09:08:11 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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I particularly like the look of a three-piece suit (getting rarer these days).
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> goofy1@suscom.net 13/07/2005 17:51 >>>


Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!

Dianne
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 14 05:16:44 2005
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] New Laughing Moon pattern!
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Just received word from my supplier last evening about a new Laughing Moon 
pattern. Very excited about this one and thought I'd share, as well as offer 
advance, discounted sale.

Early 1860s Day Dress

I know this pattern's going to be a hit, not only because of the consistent 
level of high quality, research, documentation, engineering, sewing 
instructions which are the hallmark of Laughing Moon patterns, but because 
this pattern includes three sleeve options, collar and undersleeves, as well 
as much more! Details about the pattern follow. Our normal retail on this 
pattern is $15.00CDN ($12.42US at today's exchange rate). On advance orders 
received until July 26 we're offering the pattern at $12.00CDN 
(approximately $10.00US). Anyone wishing to take advantage of this offer 
please note in your order 'Lorina's Special'. I'll catch that when I receive 
the order and be sure you receive your advance discount. But remember, 
discount only available until July 26!

To view the pattern go to: http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/p_983.html .

View A is a copy of an extant period dress in the author's collection. Views 
B and C are copies of extant sleeves. Finished Length of Skirt is 42" in 
front and 45" in back. (Click on 'Click here for more product information' 
below for extra views.)

All Views have a two dart front bodice and a classic curved V, tucked back. 
The darts are boned. The front of the skirt is directionally knife pleated, 
the sides are box pleated and the back is cartridge pleated (gauged). The 
bodice, sleeves, and skirt are flat lined with polished cotton. The skirt 
has a pocket and is stitched to the bodice. The bodice has piping at the 
neck, armscyes and waist. View A has coat sleeves, View B has pagoda 
sleeves, and View C has pleated pagoda sleeves. Included are a 1 1/2 inch 
collar and plain undersleeves.

Sizes 6-26 included in same envelope.

Regards

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry
historical sewing patterns; quality, hand-crafted cooperage; embroidery 
supplies, and more.
www.5rivers.org - info@5rivers.org
519-799-5577

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 2:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)


>
> >Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!
>
> Men have to be a little on the thin side for a suit to look that
> good.  Suits bulk out the man with a good bathing-suit-physique, and he
> looks, well, bulky.

Oh, I dunno..I think it's a power thing, actually. And an expensive,
beautifully fitted suit speaks power very loudly.

I remember watching my dad leave for work, in a suit and tie and his
gorgeous long overcoat, and being very proud that my daddy was so handsome!
So maybe a suit speaks of security for me.

Dianne
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]
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> something along these lines:
>
http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOneZoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&view
Mode=1&item=11.15
>

Sigh..I love that gown. Absolutely love it. I want it. And there is no way I
have time to make it before Pennsic.

Dianne

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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 04:59:30 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Men in suits (was: Future ware(gloves)
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>>Men have to be a little on the thin side for a suit to look that
>>good.  Suits bulk out the man with a good bathing-suit-physique, and he 
>>looks, well, bulky.

>>I disagree.  I have yet to find a man, of whatever physique, who doesn't 
>>look good in a suit.  This includes a good friend who's at least 100 lbs 
>>overweight.

Your friend probably looked better in a suit than he looks in a t-shirt and 
shorts, but I have my own preferences.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
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             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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I think the key clue in the original question is "well-fitted," which, 
for me, would certainly include fabrics with a drape/hand appropriate to 
the wearer and the design.  Certainly, men with different builds will 
look different in suits, but they all do tend to look Pretty Darned Good 
in a properly fitted suit.  But then, I think the same about most men in 
any sort of well-fitted historical clothing.  Or the right Levi's and 
tee shirt. <g>
I suppose the same thing holds true for women, as well, although without 
the same "yumm!" reaction, at least on my part ;o) I do know that I look 
better when I'm wearing something that isn't completely sloppy and 
casual (which I do a LOT--I'm large and also work in a geek haven so the 
dress code is very...relaxed).  Ditto my SCA garb (which is all that I 
do in the way of historical clothing)...properly fitted and cut, it 
looks a LOT better than a sloppy 'ole tee tunic.  (Nothing against tee 
tunics, mind you, or any of the style-cousins, but many of the ones I've 
seen are old, sloppy, and badly-fitting.  The nicely-fitting ones have 
just as much Yum! factor as other clothing styles. ;oD)
--sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
>> Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!
> 
> 
> Men have to be a little on the thin side for a suit to look that good.  
> Suits bulk out the man with a good bathing-suit-physique, and he looks, 
> well, bulky.
> 

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Robin Netherton wrote:
> In the offices I've worked in, it was the secretaries and lower-level
> assistants that wore the snazzy hairstyles, trendy jewelry, shorter
> skirts, figure-flattering tops, and the like. The higher the level, the
> more sober the women dressed -- definitely well-groomed and successful,
> but not at all "attractive" in the narrower sense.

That's because sex sells.  Sells cars, sells people.  If someone's for 
sale, they're not successful.  Does "figure flattering top" mean "shows 
the bustline off to advantage?"  "Whose advantage?" is the next question.

I don't doubt that most of the people on this list understand this 
point; it's a pity more "average" people don't.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue
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> And I've been known to refer to a steel-boned corset as my "brigantine".
> > :-)
> >
> > Joan Jurancich
> > joanmj@surewest.net
>
>
> Your brigantine???
> ....
> Er - what is the connection between a woman's steel-boned  undergarment, -
and a two masted, sailing cargo-ship - square-rigged on the foremast, and
fore-&-aft-rigged on the main mast
> Sorry, but I had to ask   :-)>
>
>
> Yours in service,
> Julian Wilson,

Well, in at least two Terry Pratchett books, there is reference to ladies
corsetry 'creaking like a tea clipper in a gale'.

That image just sticks with me for some reason. :-)

Sheridan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The purpose of clothing
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Robin Netherton wrote:
> I know a scholar who has done two books so far on the significance of
> the clothing descriptions on Chaucer's general prologue to the
> Canterbury Tales, if you want a good set of examples of cues that the
> medieval reader would have found significant.

Would you have the citations handy for those works? Sounds fascinating!

liz young

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>Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!
>
>Dianne
>  
>
Yes, and i keep trying to convice my husband tio wear that stuff, but he 
says since he put on the years to get a phd, he does not have to wear 
that, and so i have to subsite on him in khakies :(

Now, to bring this back onto a historical note, I have a thought 
question.  I was talking to some guys at work (older)  and they siad 
that they had never bought cloths for themselfs, their wifes had always 
boght their clothes. 

So, how much of what guys wore over the centries has been what they 
wanted to wear, and how much of it was chosen by thier womanfolks?

A;sp. it seems like many modern guys dislike "dressing up" per say (say 
tux and such) and the popular image is that women like to dress up more 
then guys.  has this always been the popular image?

jordana

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
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> I have to agree with Suzi.  I don't wash my velvets before or after I
> sew...it seems to mess with the pyle/pile.  ok, it gets funky after it's
> washed; however gently.

And I've found all the velvet I have washed looks infinitely better than
when I first got it. Same with many people around me who wash fabrics the
second they get them.

I was all mine in cold water with enough powder to remove whatever treatment
is put on. I find velveteen here especially given some treatment that makes
them mush harsher than they need to be. I snubbed velveteen for years
because of it.
I also either use fabric conditioner or regular conditioner (ok, high end
stuff, but it's made for hair anyway;) ) and then hang it out on a day where
it's either mildly windy (beats out folds and wrinkles) or on a damp day
with light breezes.

If the pile still isn't soft I'll hand spritz it with a mixture of water an
my best conditioner and pat the pile until it feels better.

I've had cotton velvet curtains come up beautifully this way too. Necessary
when you are poor and the only large lot of velvet of this thickness you can
get is by buying second hand.

And when velveteen in the shops is less than perfect.

I have had poly velvet get wet and then go crunchy when dry (though it was
able to be brushed softer again), which really made me nervous the first
time I washed cotton velvet. But I have also washed a viscose piled silk
backed velvet with no adverse reaction. Gentle cycle cold water.

I suspect success has as much to to with the actual fabric bought (and
prestore treatment) as the water you have (our water fluctuates between soft
and hard and musty) and the machine and drying space etc.

I consider myself lucky to live in Auckland, even though the humidity is
extremely frustrating from a comfort point of view, just as the rain is, it
can be great for some washing needs. If not general washing needs;)

We don't have a dryer btw, which is probably not the case for the vast
majority here. We simply have no need of it. If it's cold and wet we usually
have the heater on and the lounge becomes a laundry room over night. If it's
a lovely day they we have two seperate drying areas.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: [h-cost] 1740s characters
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A friend of mine has been asked to get together some costumes for a short  
promotional film to show investors and others in order to get funding to do a  
whole film. He always comes to me for period consultation because he has never  
studied any period clothing or costuming or design. But he's bright and eager 
 and learns fast. I come to consult you guys....
 
Anyway, I haven't seen a script or anything but apparently the cast  includes 
2 men, a son and father I think, who are Puritans in Ireland getting  ready 
to go to the new world. There is also a Catholic servant girl. It is the  1740s.
 
Obviously things need to look good and interesting....and convincing. We're  
trying to sell the thing, right?
 
I thought the men would be in well made fine clothes in dark colors  [wool] 
devoid of trim. Nice but not flashy buttons...perhaps of the  coat fabric or 
matching,certainly analogous, in coloring, and button holes  [uncut] being the 
only decorations. The silhouette should be reasonably  fashionable I 
think...they aren't poor. So the coat skirts would be full  with fairly large cuffs, no 
collar. The waistcoats kinda long and buttoned high.  No frills on the 
shirt...but a stock [right?]. Plain stockings [dark?] and  buckled shoes. Could I get 
away with a coat buttoning? In the 1740s, the  coats' CF don't curve over the 
breast do they? They are straight.
 
The men will most likely be rented. Any suggestions on where to go before  we 
just call Western Costume or something?
 
The girl [which I may make for my friend] I want to put in a jacket  and 
petticoat. I'd do a simple gown...but the fabric I want to  use is only a 4 yard 
piece. It's a cotton that is dark dark OD  green...unevenly dyed...with a sprig 
with leaves printed all over in dark grey.  Looks blockprinted. It'd make a 
great jacket with some modest skirts  and laced up CF. I need some instructions 
on how to do a single  lace. A dark petticoat and a pinner apron. A fichu 
should fill in....in a  very modest way, the neckline. A linen cap...maybe one of 
those that has wide  ties that go behind the ears and under the chin. She's 
not Puritan remember  so maybe line the jacket with brick red...a glimpse of 
color. The apron  shouldn't be white either I think. Maybe out and out beige or 
brown. Striped?  Like ticking?
 
What do y'all think? Any interesting details I might add to the men or girl  
you can think of? Like I said....haven't seen a script. Maybe it will suggest  
some good details...like scissors or keys on hanging from the girls  
waist...y'know, that kind of thing.
 
Any suggestions and insights...or inside info on the period or  Puritans...is 
greatly appreciated.
 
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> I'm about to make an upper-class Elizabethan Gown and am looking
> for a lovely rich brocade to use in earthy colour combinations - can 
> anyone recommend a place online that I might go to that would have a 
> design that is close to period accurate and is of a natural fibre?

Calico Corners is a chain expensive fabric/curtain store.  They have 
damask silk in their orderable racks, but it's (IIRC) $50/yard.  Lovely 
though.

Side note: I was taught that it's not a brocade unless it has a gold 
thread in the design.  Otherwise it's something else.  Not sure if this 
is true or not!
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>  (Nothing against tee tunics, mind you, or any of the style-cousins, 
> but many of the ones I've seen are old, sloppy, and badly-fitting.  
> The nicely-fitting ones have just as much Yum! factor as other 
> clothing styles. ;oD)
> --sue

I do seem to have MORE trouble getting a t-tunic to fit right then 
getting a fitted bodice to fit right though. I have lots of trouble with 
the tummy bigness in relation to the shoulders. (re my questions of 
about a month ago! )

jordana

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At 03:46 AM 7/14/2005, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

>Side note: I was taught that it's not a brocade unless it has a gold 
>thread in the design.  Otherwise it's something else.  Not sure if 
>this is true or not!

A brocade is (properly, as per a weaver) defined by the weaving 
technique used to create the design.  Gold thread just makes it an 
*expensive* brocade.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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> Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!

Oh my, yes! For our wedding 17 years ago, all the men in the party wore
pearl gray tailcoats. I loved the color at the time, though it is very dated
now. As someone who loves historic costume, that doesn't bother me. Anyway,
one of the men in the party was very overweight, and he looked gorgeous in
his tux. It wasn't even fitted! Just a rental. I wish men would wear them
all the time.

I really got to appreciate suits when I worked in the Pennsylvania Capital
building for a summer internship. Many of the lobbyists wore very expensive,
tailored suits. And there is nothing anonymous looking about them!

Gail Finke


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Status: RO

Well, I associate the term "Puritan" with the late 16th-early 17th centuries. Puritanism was a movement within the Church of England protesting against what they saw as continuing Catholic practices in worship. By the 18th century, people of that persuasion had started to form separate Nonconformist churches. I don't know anything specific about 1740s Ireland, but no doubt well-to-do Nonconformists would wear plain but well-cut clothing such as you describe.
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> AlbertCat@aol.com 14/07/2005 05:10 >>>

Anyway, I haven't seen a script or anything but apparently the cast  includes 
2 men, a son and father I think, who are Puritans in Ireland getting  ready 
to go to the new world. There is also a Catholic servant girl. It is the  1740s.
Any suggestions and insights...or inside info on the period or  Puritans...is greatly appreciated.

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> Sorry to hijack your topic, but I've got a question on the same topic -
> I'm about to make an upper-class Elizabethan Gown and am looking
> for a lovely rich brocade to use in earthy colour combinations - can
> anyone recommend a place online that I might go to that would have a
> design that is close to period accurate and is of a natural fibre? Also
> which is better/cheaper to buy, use and sew - linen/silk or linen/wool
> blend?
> Many thanks, Aylwen
>

Aylwen,

I have some brocades that might work for you.  They are 50% cotton/50%
polyester and there are several in earth tones.  I am trying very hard to
find an all cotton/linen/wool brocade supplier but I am not having much
luck and when I do find a lovely fabric, the price is outrageous.  The
blends that I have were a very good deal so I figured that at least 50%
cotton was better than nothing ;~>

Take a look at what I have:

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/products.php?int_style_id=3

(Click the "next" button to see the second page)

Let me know if you are interested in anything and I can send you swatches
if you like.  Just tell me which ones and what address to send them to....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] brocade / damask question
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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Oooops!  That last message wasn't supposed to go to the list.

Sorry!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Influence of women, was Future ware(gloves)
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Status: RO

Given the (officially) low status of women in the past (though many no doubt found ways of exerting influence), I can't imagine it ever having been the norm for wives to choose their husbands' clothes. As for "dressing up", don't forget that before the 19th century well-to-do men often chose to dress quite flamboyantly.
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> jaurbik@optonline.net 14/07/2005 02:42 >>>


Now, to bring this back onto a historical note, I have a thought 
question.  I was talking to some guys at work (older)  and they siad 
that they had never bought cloths for themselfs, their wifes had always 
boght their clothes. 

So, how much of what guys wore over the centries has been what they 
wanted to wear, and how much of it was chosen by thier womanfolks?

A;sp. it seems like many modern guys dislike "dressing up" per say (say 
tux and such) and the popular image is that women like to dress up more 
then guys.  has this always been the popular image?

jordana

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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 00:10:49 EDT
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1740s characters
To: h-costume@indra.com
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A friend of mine has been asked to get together some costumes for a short 
promotional film to show investors and others in order to get funding to do a 
whole film. He always comes to me for period consultation because he has never 
studied any period clothing or costuming or design. But he's bright and eager 
and learns fast. I come to consult you guys....

Anyway, I haven't seen a script or anything but apparently the cast includes 
2 men, a son and father I think, who are Puritans in Ireland getting ready 
to go to the new world. There is also a Catholic servant girl. It is the 1740s.

Obviously things need to look good and interesting....and convincing. We're 
trying to sell the thing, right?

I thought the men would be in well made fine clothes in dark colors [wool] 
devoid of trim. Nice but not flashy buttons...perhaps of the coat fabric or 
matching,certainly analogous, in coloring, and button holes [uncut] being the 
only decorations. The silhouette should be reasonably fashionable I 
think...they aren't poor. So the coat skirts would be full with fairly large cuffs, no 
collar. The waistcoats kinda long and buttoned high. No frills on the 
shirt...but a stock [right?]. Plain stockings [dark?] and buckled shoes. Could I get 
away with a coat buttoning? In the 1740s, the coats' CF don't curve over the 
breast do they? They are straight.

The men will most likely be rented. Any suggestions on where to go before we 
just call Western Costume or something?

The girl [which I may make for my friend] I want to put in a jacket and 
petticoat. I'd do a simple gown...but the fabric I want to use is only a 4 yard 
piece. It's a cotton that is dark dark OD green...unevenly dyed...with a sprig 
with leaves printed all over in dark grey. Looks blockprinted. It'd make a 
great jacket with some modest skirts and laced up CF. I need some instructions 
on how to do a single lace. A dark petticoat and a pinner apron. A fichu 
should fill in....in a very modest way, the neckline. A linen cap...maybe one of 
those that has wide ties that go behind the ears and under the chin. She's 
not Puritan remember so maybe line the jacket with brick red...a glimpse of 
color. The apron shouldn't be white either I think. Maybe out and out beige or 
brown. Striped? Like ticking?

What do y'all think? Any interesting details I might add to the men or girl 
you can think of? Like I said....haven't seen a script. Maybe it will suggest 
some good details...like scissors or keys on hanging from the girls 
waist...y'know, that kind of thing.

Any suggestions and insights...or inside info on the period or Puritans...is 
greatly appreciated.



I know the late 1700's better. The clothing seems right on, but seems to my recollection that 1740's is pretty late for Puritans in the states  Again New england is not my area 

(New England is a BIG assumption on my part.  Irish went to all areas of the new world north american colonies. What follows is the really,really short version of history  Puritans were origianlly scheduled to land further south and ended up in the cold north.  Ladies from Canada, did any end up on your shores? )  

Am Rev War Mia in CHarlotte


		
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Subject: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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Hi, I'm feeling lazy, don't feel like getting out the tape measure, its 
12:12am here in Australia - maybe one of you on the list has this info 
in your head - please don't go to any lengths  - otherwise I should be 
the one doing the work <grin> - but approx. how much length of trim do 
you think I should get for a reproduction of this dress at 
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Images/colourpics/8486.jpg ? And do 
you think the same trim is used throughout the whole dress, or maybe 
the tabs at the waist and shoulders are simply edged with gold? And 
where on earth would one find the jewellery? (or the money to get it 
:((! ) I've already purchased the cotton velvet and am presently making 
the undergarments.
Regards, Aylwen Garden

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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 08:29:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The purpose of clothing
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On Wed, 13 Jul 2005, Elizabeth Young wrote:

> Robin Netherton wrote:
> > I know a scholar who has done two books so far on the significance of
> > the clothing descriptions on Chaucer's general prologue to the
> > Canterbury Tales, if you want a good set of examples of cues that the
> > medieval reader would have found significant.
> 
> Would you have the citations handy for those works? Sounds fascinating!

Laura Hodges, _Chaucer and Costume_ and _Chaucer and Clothing_. I'd
suggest you get them via library or ILL rather than buying them sight
unseen; they're primarily lit-crit (or, as the description says, "the
semiotics of textile and costume in literature"), not costume histories
per se. The first one (which is out of print) is about the secular
pilgrims in the Tales, and the second (just released this year) is about
the religious pilgrims. Summaries here:
	http://www.boydell.co.uk/59915778.HTM
	http://www.boydell.co.uk/43840332.HTM

Laura and I had the same Chaucer professor (though at different
universities) in, hmm, the late 1970s for me, I think the 1980s for Laura.
We met through her at Kalamazoo and see each other there every year.

--Robin

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The wise acre answer to that is, how much can you afford? For my Elizabethans I have stopped buying trim in anything less than 10 yard batches and prefer to buy the trim in 20 to 30 yard lengths. As the portrait doesn't show what is happening at the hem (do I count as a true 16th century costuming geek since I knew who the subject of the portrait was immediately?) you will have to guess based on other Spanish potraits of the time and extrapolate. Since this is a Royal portrait, I tend to think tha the trim was used pretty extravagantly. 

Good luck on the jewelry!


Karen
Seamstrix

-- Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au> wrote:
Hi, I'm feeling lazy, don't feel like getting out the tape measure, its 
12:12am here in Australia - maybe one of you on the list has this info 
in your head - please don't go to any lengths  - otherwise I should be 
the one doing the work <grin> - but approx. how much length of trim do 
you think I should get for a reproduction of this dress at 
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Images/colourpics/8486.jpg ? And do 
you think the same trim is used throughout the whole dress, or maybe 
the tabs at the waist and shoulders are simply edged with gold? And 
where on earth would one find the jewellery? (or the money to get it 
:((! ) I've already purchased the cotton velvet and am presently making 
the undergarments.
Regards, Aylwen Garden

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I don't think there were Puritans, per se, in 1740.  Does he mean
1640, perhaps?  Or, if 1740, maybe he's referring to Presbyterian or
some other Protestant Scots-Irish immigrants?

-- Mara


Message: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 00:10:49 EDT
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1740s characters
To: h-costume@indra.com
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A friend of mine has been asked to get together some costumes for a 
short  
promotional film to show investors and others in order to get funding

to do a  
whole film. He always comes to me for period consultation because he 
has never  
studied any period clothing or costuming or design. But he's bright 
and eager 
 and learns fast. I come to consult you guys....
(snip)
Any suggestions and insights...or inside info on the period or  
Puritans...is 
greatly appreciated.


---------------------
http://www.knittingobsession.com - modern knitting stuff
http://www.knittingobsession.blogspot.com
http://www.marariley.net - 18th century research and knitting patterns
---------------------
Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd. - Voltaire
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Subject: [h-cost] Tunic terminology
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I've heard people rant about not calling tunics-with-gores/godets 
"T-Tunics" but I'm not sure why.  The top is shaped like a T, even if 
the skirt area spreads out.  Could someone enlighten me?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue
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Subject: [h-cost] looking for picture of  Frank Leslie's Lady's magazine
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Hi,

I have found a nice drawing from  Frank Leslie's Lady's magazine.
But the picture is quite small and since I am using it for inspiration 
for my bustle dress,
I wondered if someone has a bigger picture of it.
Here is the one I found online.
http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/women/fashionplates/1870sleslies.gif

I am making the dress from light purple cotton and a white and dark 
purple cooton plaid.

Greetings,
       Deredere


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From: ladysarafina@att.net (Sarafina Sinclair)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 15:23:28 +0000
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Greetings,

A friend and I did a set of 1590s spanish court clothing for the King and Queen of the Midrealm a year or so and we went through easily 100 yards of trim. You could conservatively estimate 50 yards of trim for this dress and still not put as much trim on as you could. I have portraits of Spanish royalty on my website to give you some comparison to the portrait you referenced.

Check out:
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net/anneofaus.JPG
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net/cathofaus.JPG
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net/claraeugenia2.JPG
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net/lizdevalois2.JPG

Hope this helps,

Sarafina

--
The Honourable Lady Sarafina Sinclair, CE 
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net 



-------------- Original message from Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>: -------------- 


> Hi, I'm feeling lazy, don't feel like getting out the tape measure, its 
> 12:12am here in Australia - maybe one of you on the list has this info 
> in your head - please don't go to any lengths - otherwise I should be 
> the one doing the work - but approx. how much length of trim do 
> you think I should get for a reproduction of this dress at 
> http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Images/colourpics/8486.jpg ? And do 
> you think the same trim is used throughout the whole dress, or maybe 
> the tabs at the waist and shoulders are simply edged with gold? And 
> where on earth would one find the jewellery? (or the money to get it 
> :((! ) I've already purchased the cotton velvet and am presently making 
> the undergarments. 
> Regards, Aylwen Garden 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Future clothing"
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Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> writes:
>
> Hey, my husband still wears the crew-necked white undershirt sticking
> out of the shirt neck.

That's wrong?!?  I'd far rather show an undershirt than my chest...

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
The question of whether a computer can think is no more interesting than the
question of whether a submarine can swim.               --Edsger W. Dijkstra

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>From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1136905482.a65864@thibault.org>
>I've heard people rant about not calling tunics-with-gores/godets
>"T-Tunics" but I'm not sure why.  The top is shaped like a T, even if
>the skirt area spreads out.  Could someone enlighten me?

My understanding is (and it may be flawed of course) is that "T-tunic" has 
traditionally referred to the fold over cut and sew up the side, but 
otherwise unconstructed sort of tunic.  When you start attaching sleeves, or 
sticking in gores, you are making a constructed garment.

Pesonally, I'm not thrilled with the term T-tunic in the first place, but 
whatever.

Marc


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I thought it was more usual to wear a tank undershirt and show a very 
small amount of upper chest, but I don't meddle in these things. 

You should see his sandals--he's had that pair since we first met (as 
college students) and he refuses to replace them. They look like 
archaeological finds.  Luckily he only wears them to do yard work.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Robert Uhl wrote:

>Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> writes:
>  
>
>>Hey, my husband still wears the crew-necked white undershirt sticking
>>out of the shirt neck.
>>    
>>
>
>That's wrong?!?  I'd far rather show an undershirt than my chest...
>
>  
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Future clothing"
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     A couple years back, my nephew had a crew neck undershirt showing in
his open collar.  We were about to do a family portrait, so I
suggested he adjust it.  I was informed that it was an intentional
look.

     Better that than boxeer shprts showing, I guess!  :-)

     -Carol


> I thought it was more usual to wear a tank undershirt and show a very
> small amount of upper chest, but I don't meddle in these things.
>
> You should see his sandals--he's had that pair since we first met (as
> college students) and he refuses to replace them. They look like
> archaeological finds.  Luckily he only wears them to do yard work.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> Robert Uhl wrote:
>
>>Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> writes:
>>
>>
>>>Hey, my husband still wears the crew-necked white undershirt sticking
>>>out of the shirt neck.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>That's wrong?!?  I'd far rather show an undershirt than my chest...
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology
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Marc Carlson wrote:
>> From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1136905482.a65864@thibault.org>
>> I've heard people rant about not calling tunics-with-gores/godets
>> "T-Tunics" but I'm not sure why.  The top is shaped like a T, even if
>> the skirt area spreads out.  Could someone enlighten me?
> 
> 
> My understanding is (and it may be flawed of course) is that "T-tunic" 
> has traditionally referred to the fold over cut and sew up the side, but 
> otherwise unconstructed sort of tunic.  When you start attaching 
> sleeves, or sticking in gores, you are making a constructed garment.
> 
> Pesonally, I'm not thrilled with the term T-tunic in the first place, 
> but whatever.

I've never understand the difference between "t-tunic" and "tunic".

--Charlene


-- 
America is addicted to wars of distraction.  -- Barbara Ehrenreich
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Alen/ell?
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Hi,
Going through my copy of _Woven into the Earth_ with a calculator this time,
since I still think in inches, not centimeters. Ostergard writes that the
ell (alen) as referred to in the Gragas manuscript was about 19.29 inches --
or roughly 1/2 modern yard. I have heard elsewhere that the standard "ell"
was closer to the full modern yard. Is there a good resource for historical
units of measurement?
Thanks!
Lauren
-- 
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net
-- 
"One does not need buildings, money, power, or status to practice the Art of
Peace. Heaven is right where you are standing, and that is the place to
train." -- Morihei Ueshiba

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Repling to part:

My husband's place of employment is slowly swinging in the other
direction--they just sent down a new rule that jeans and khakis are no
longer acceptable dress during the week--and this is a cluster of radio
stations, which normally tend to be quite casual. I did notice, though, that
I have never seen the program director without a suit and tie.

Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!

Dianne
---------------------------

Kind of sad that there are a lot of jobs that require an image to maintain,
but do not provide the salary to maintain it!  My friend is trying to get
a job that will pay only $9/hr, and expect professional dress.  

When I lost my job, my husband's salary wouldn't have been enough to keep
our house if his job required dress clothes and the money to maintain them.

Maybe I'm wrong, but along with clothes there's the car you drive and you
address.  These things can easily cost more than your salary can afford.
That's another part of the "image" people feel they need to maintain.

One of my friends who works in the computer industry said once, "I wished
the TechBubble would have stayed around long enough to get rid of the
notion of professional dress once and for all."  His job allowed him to
wear free (computer conference swag) tshirts and shorts to work.  He
was a programmer and actually had to produce something that worked, rather
than sell a product (where looks, including pure physical appearance is 
a big factor) or management where he sat in meetings all day with other
people who didn't produce anything.

I wonder if there is a trend that if a person is in a job that produces 
something tangible, they can dress more casually?  The professional dressed
ones are either managers, or sellers of the product, but don't produce anything.

Another thing my husband has noted in the computer industry is those that
dress nicer are often compensating for a lack of job skills (unless a
dress code is enforced).

Kate
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At 06:28 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote:
>Oooops!  That last message wasn't supposed to go to the list.
>
>Sorry!
>
>Diana
>
>www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>"Everything for the Costumer"


That's fine with me. I was about to start looking for something similar for 
my next Tudor gown ideas. It will be a bit before I can order and make 
anything, tho. But I am glad to know you have materials I am looking for.

Thanks for posting the info.

Kimiko


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At 07:14 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote:
>  And where on earth would one find the jewellery?


There is a company in England that makes pewter replicas of Tudor jewelry 
(and other jewelry things, spoons, collars, etc.), and he notes that he 
makes custom pieces as well.
http://www.tudorjewels.com/ (for the historical images)
http://www.pewterreplicas.com/ (to order the same)

While it may not be exactly what you are looking for, some of the patterns 
appear similar, or he could make them for you.

I have not ordered from him yet, but plan on doing so later this year when 
I have some more money.

Kimiko


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From: Robert Uhl <eadmund42@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Alen/ell?
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 11:39:18 -0600
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Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> writes:
>
> Ostergard writes that the ell (alen) as referred to in the Gragas
> manuscript was about 19.29 inches -- or roughly 1/2 modern yard. I
> have heard elsewhere that the standard "ell" was closer to the full
> modern yard.

FWIW the definition of 'ell' with which I am familiar is exactly 1/2 yd.

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
Truth hurts.  Maybe not as much as jumping on a bicycle with a seat
missing, but it hurts.                    --Drebin, Naked Gun 2 1/2

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Future clothing trends?
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saka@toysmakeuspowerful.com wrote:


> 
> I wonder if there is a trend that if a person is in a job that produces 
> something tangible, they can dress more casually?  The professional dressed
> ones are either managers, or sellers of the product, but don't produce anything.
> 

What I've seen in recent years is that professional jobs where you 
interact with "clients" require more formal dress than jobs where your 
workgroup never meets anyone outside its own department. Clients can be 
people outside your department or building, depending on what service 
job you're in, as well as outside the company.


Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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Quoting Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>:

> http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Images/colourpics/8486.jpg ? And do

OOh!  I've never seen that painting before!  Do you have more information
about it?

Susan
-----
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University of Tennessee
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http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Men in suits (was: Future ware(gloves)
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Quoting Carmen Beaudry <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>:

>
> I disagree.  I have yet to find a man, of whatever physique, who doesn't
> look good in a suit.  This includes a good friend who's at least 100 lbs
> overweight.
>

Oh, yeah.  I'll second that idea.  My teen-ager wanted to buy his tux 
after his
prom for that reason.  He's also getting more of the guys in his youth 
choir at
church to wear ties/jackets.  Evidently, the other fellows are noticing the
attention that he gets from the girls in his suit .....

Susan
-----
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sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Alen/ell?
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 20:23:24 +0200
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Hi
Østergaard is danish, and here we use the word alen. It is an old meassure 
comparallel to an ell.
I once went to a lecture where Østergaard showed slides and told about the 
royal childrens burrials at Roskilde Cathedral. Very very interresting.
She is a member of the danish textile history group.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Uhl" <eadmund42@gmail.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Alen/ell?


> Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> writes:
>>
>> Ostergard writes that the ell (alen) as referred to in the Gragas
>> manuscript was about 19.29 inches -- or roughly 1/2 modern yard. I
>> have heard elsewhere that the standard "ell" was closer to the full
>> modern yard.
>
> FWIW the definition of 'ell' with which I am familiar is exactly 1/2 yd.
>
> -- 
> Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
> Truth hurts.  Maybe not as much as jumping on a bicycle with a seat
> missing, but it hurts.                    --Drebin, Naked Gun 2 1/2
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <420e3e4420c920.420c920420e3e4@optonline.net><m3br5qglcq.fsf@4dv.net><BAY106-DAV1979429963AC123E4C2AE8F6DB0@phx.gbl><m3u0j2lp56.fsf_-_@4dv.net><42D46CB9.4050508@dandy.net><a8e200f1050713054375e8bdf7@mail.gmail.com><42D534B0.1000102@reddawn.net><a8e200f105071309493d80a2e0@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]
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Hi
I can understand you would love to make this, but isnt it difficult to get 
the jewelry that goes with this fashion, i think about the big gold chains? 
They are very important accesories for this fashion?

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dianne and Greg" <goofy1@suscom.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]


>
>> something along these lines:
>>
> http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOneZoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&view
> Mode=1&item=11.15
>>
>
> Sigh..I love that gown. Absolutely love it. I want it. And there is no way 
> I
> have time to make it before Pennsic.
>
> Dianne
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] velveteen
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Now, i have ben on this list for long, so please forgive my ignorance but 
what is the difference between velveteen and velvet?
I only know the rayon velvet and cotton velvet. Did i miss something?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Alen/ell?
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At 10:07 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Going through my copy of _Woven into the Earth_ with a calculator this time,
>since I still think in inches, not centimeters. Ostergard writes that the
>ell (alen) as referred to in the Gragas manuscript was about 19.29 inches --
>or roughly 1/2 modern yard. I have heard elsewhere that the standard "ell"
>was closer to the full modern yard. Is there a good resource for historical
>units of measurement?
>Thanks!
>Lauren
>--
>Lauren M. Walker
>lauren.walker@comcast.net
>--
>"One does not need buildings, money, power, or status to practice the Art of
>Peace. Heaven is right where you are standing, and that is the place to
>train." -- Morihei Ueshiba

There is no "standard ell" that is recognized in all countries, 
especially during these earlier periods.   Depending upon your 
location (and this varied even within some countries), the ell could 
range from half a yard to around 1-1/4 yard.  And it sometimes 
differed depending upon what was being measured.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology
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>From: Charlene Charette <perronnelle@earthlink.net>
>I've never understand the difference between "t-tunic" and "tunic".

Let's first establish what a "tunic" is:  according to the Oxford Mnglish 
Dictionary and Middle English Dictionary, a Tunic (for the middle ages at 
least) is "A garment resembling a shirt or a gown, worn by both sexes among 
the Greeks and Romans (OED)", "In Old English and mediaeval times, a body 
garment or coat over which a loose mantle of cloak was worn. (OED)" and "A 
garment resembling a shirt or gown, worn alone or beneath a mantle, armor, 
etc. (MED)"

In other words, it is a simple shirt/gown, worn next to the body, as opposed 
to the usual kirtles/gowns, etc, which are worn with a shirt/camisa under 
them, and stylistically similar to what people thought the romans and greeks 
wore.

A "T-tunic." as I learned the term, was a modern term for a simple type of 
tunic cut from a wide bit of fabric, folded, then cut in the shape of a "T" 
and so there is minimal cutting and sewing.  The term may refer to the shape 
it's cut from, or the fact they are as ubiquitous as t-shirts, or could be 
worn like t-shirts (all of which I've heard as -the- explanation.

Marc


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Marc Carlson wrote:
> Let's first establish what a "tunic" is:  according to the Oxford 
> Mnglish Dictionary and Middle English Dictionary, a Tunic (for the 
> middle ages at least) is "A garment resembling a shirt or a gown, worn 
> by both sexes among the Greeks and Romans (OED)", "In Old English and 
> mediaeval times, a body garment or coat over which a loose mantle of 
> cloak was worn. (OED)" and "A garment resembling a shirt or gown, worn 
> alone or beneath a mantle, armor, etc. (MED)"
> 
> In other words, it is a simple shirt/gown, worn next to the body, as 
> opposed to the usual kirtles/gowns, etc, which are worn with a 
> shirt/camisa under them,

Did you skip a cite there?  I don't see something which says it wasn't 
worn with some kind of body linen layer under it.  "a body garment or 
coat" seems to imply "tunic" could apply to both layers.

Puzzling,

cv
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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 15:26:56 -0400
From: Irmgart <irmgart@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]
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You do often see the big gold chains with this fashion. Personally, I
have not been able to find anything even remotely close other than
"decorative chain" from the hardware store, and that does not have the
right "look" to me.

photos of extant jewelry: 
http://www.curiousfrau.com/Articles/jewelry.htm

I'm currently trying for a middle class/Kampfollower portrayal... so
might not have as much in the way of heavy gold jewelry.

Also, I personally don't have the money to buy what I think will look
"right." I'm *always* on the lookout, though.

There are a couple of paintings with that style dress without as much
in the way of chains:

http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach45.html
http://www.st-max.org/images/woodcuts/Kampfrau4.jpg
http://www.uni-leipzig.de/ru/bilder/luther/cranac02.jpg

-Irmgart


On 7/14/05, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> Hi
> I can understand you would love to make this, but isnt it difficult to get
> the jewelry that goes with this fashion, i think about the big gold chains?
> They are very important accesories for this fashion?
> 
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dianne and Greg" <goofy1@suscom.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 1:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]
> 
> 
> >
> >> something along these lines:
> >>
> > http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOneZoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&view
> > Mode=1&item=11.15
> >>
> >
> > Sigh..I love that gown. Absolutely love it. I want it. And there is no way
> > I
> > have time to make it before Pennsic.
> >
> > Dianne
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Wed, 13 Jul 2005, Elizabeth Young wrote:
> 
> 
>> Robin Netherton wrote:
>> 
>>> two books so far on the significance of the clothing descriptions
>>> on Chaucer's general prologue to the Canterbury Tales,
>> 
>> Would you have the citations handy for those works? Sounds
>> fascinating!
> 
> Laura Hodges, _Chaucer and Costume_ and _Chaucer and Clothing_. I'd 
> suggest you get them via library or ILL 

I live for ILL - thanks!

liz young

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: elizabethan dress trimm question
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Forgive me for being dense, but I know I've seen that portrait before. I 
just can't for the life of me remember who it is. Could someone ID it for 
me? And does anyone have a link to a larger version of the portrait?

As for the yardage of trim required, my rule is to guestimate generously 
and then increase by 50%. I always end up using/needing more than I figured 
on to begin with.

Julie

At 08:08 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote:
>Message: 10
>Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 00:14:07 +1000
>From: Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
>Subject: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID:
>         <8A26BCF2-F471-11D9-8439-000393B11100@earthlydelights.com.au>
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>
>Hi, I'm feeling lazy, don't feel like getting out the tape measure, its
>12:12am here in Australia - maybe one of you on the list has this info
>in your head - please don't go to any lengths  - otherwise I should be
>the one doing the work <grin> - but approx. how much length of trim do
>you think I should get for a reproduction of this dress at
>http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Images/colourpics/8486.jpg ? And do
>you think the same trim is used throughout the whole dress, or maybe
>the tabs at the waist and shoulders are simply edged with gold? And
>where on earth would one find the jewellery? (or the money to get it
>:((! ) I've already purchased the cotton velvet and am presently making
>the undergarments.
>Regards, Aylwen Garden

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velveteen
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At 11:42 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote:
>Now, i have ben on this list for long, so please forgive my ignorance but 
>what is the difference between velveteen and velvet?
>I only know the rayon velvet and cotton velvet. Did i miss something?
>
>Bjarne


Hi Bjarne,

Taken from http://www.apparelsearch.com/glossary_v.htm

velvet:   silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, and a little wool and 
worsted.  Pile, made with an extra warp yarn.  Mostly made with a plain 
back but some with a twill.  Some are made with a silk pile and a rayon or 
cotton back.

velveteen:  a clothing fabric usually of cotton in twill or plain weaves 
made a short close weft pile in imitation of velvet.  Woven with a extra 
filling yarn with either a plain or a twill back (twill back is the best).

Around in my area, cotton velveteen at 45" is found at most Hancocks or 
Jo-Ann Fabrics, and sometime in Wal-Mart (which I don't buy from anymore, 
you get what you pay for). Cotton velvet is usually only found in 
upholstery stores like Home Fabrics or Harts for the Home, usually at a 
wider width of 54", and is much sturdier and usually with a little deeper 
pile. I just bought a yard of black cotton velvet to see how well it makes 
into a hat.

I have yet to see all rayon velvet, as acetate velvet and other man-made 
materials being more common here for crafters. Silk/rayon velvet is a 
luxury item for me, being something I have to either travel great distances 
to buy (either the Bay area or LA), or buy online.

hth,

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)
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At 10:24 PM 7/13/2005, you wrote:
>Also which is better/cheaper to buy, use and sew - linen/silk or 
>linen/wool blend?


Hi Aylwen,

Hmmmm... I've never thought of that question. Thanks for asking it. My 
usual thought is what do I want the fabric of my Elizabethans to look like, 
then go from there. As in, do I want it to be a velvet, wool or silk/satin 
look? Is it one color fabric, or do I want to use a something visually 
textured (as in brocade or damask)?

My first reaction is to go with cotton velvet, maybe wool, because that's 
what I can find locally. I've only recently been able to afford doing 
anything in real linen or silks, let alone blends, and then I have to order 
those (and I hate waiting for them to arrive). I want to do a gown in 
hemp/silk blend or a cotton/silk blend to get more weight to the silk, yet 
the look of silk satin, but that's for next year when my body size returns 
to normal.

What I've seen tho' of linen/silk or linen/wool blends tend to look 
visually coarse, not at all as nice as an all wool or all silk fabric. But 
I can't give advice on how well either is to sew up or wear.

If you decide to take the plunge on the blends, please share your 
experiences with us. I always like to hear of others experiences with 
fabric (sometimes I think I am a fabric junkie, not just a sewing junkie).

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)

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Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 09:48:20 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology
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Marc Carlson wrote:

>> From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1136905482.a65864@thibault.org>
>> I've heard people rant about not calling tunics-with-gores/godets
>> "T-Tunics" but I'm not sure why.  The top is shaped like a T, even if
>> the skirt area spreads out.  Could someone enlighten me?
>
>
> My understanding is (and it may be flawed of course) is that "T-tunic" 
> has traditionally referred to the fold over cut and sew up the side, 
> but otherwise unconstructed sort of tunic.  When you start attaching 
> sleeves, or sticking in gores, you are making a constructed garment.
>
> Pesonally, I'm not thrilled with the term T-tunic in the first place, 
> but whatever.


Around here we tend to use "t-tunic" for a simple gored and gusseted 
model.  The fold-over-and-cut-out model is _very_ uncommon here.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology
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Charlene Charette wrote:

>> My understanding is (and it may be flawed of course) is that 
>> "T-tunic" has traditionally referred to the fold over cut and sew up 
>> the side, but otherwise unconstructed sort of tunic.  When you start 
>> attaching sleeves, or sticking in gores, you are making a constructed 
>> garment.
>>
>> Pesonally, I'm not thrilled with the term T-tunic in the first place, 
>> but whatever.
>
>
People here practically use "t-tunic" as a techinical term.   It means 
"a basic tunic with a rectangular front and back, unshaped sleeve heads, 
small square gussets at the armpit and two-piece gores in the 
side-seam."  Great shorthand when you want to use that as a starting 
pount for descriding something -- ie, "it's just like a t-tunic only it 
has additional gores at the cente front and back" etc.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology
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Adele de Maisieres wrote:

> pount for descriding something


I'm clearly having one of those days.  But I'd like to define the word 
"descride" as--  v.t. to describe dismissively or unkindly. 


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velveteen
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Now, i have ben on this list for long, so please forgive my ignorance 
> but what is the difference between velveteen and velvet?
> I only know the rayon velvet and cotton velvet. Did i miss something?


Oo, oo!  Pick me!  I know this one!

In velvet, the pile is formed from a supplemental warp.  In velveteen, 
it's formed from a supplemental weft.  So it's a difference in weave 
rather than in fibre. 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology
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Adele de Maisieres wrote:

> People here practically use "t-tunic" as a techinical term.   It means 
> "a basic tunic with a rectangular front and back, unshaped sleeve heads, 
> small square gussets at the armpit and two-piece gores in the 
> side-seam."  Great shorthand when you want to use that as a starting 
> pount for descriding something -- ie, "it's just like a t-tunic only it 
> has additional gores at the cente front and back" etc.

Interesting -- to me, it's not really a proper tunic without center 
front and back gores.  Otherwise that's a great description.

Where's "here?"  NZ on your email means New Zealand, I'd guess?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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From: Pam Dotson <dotsontwo@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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>Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!
>
 
hums "Every girl's crazy for a sharp dressed man...." 


		
---------------------------------
 Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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It's more of an issue with me, as well, but in my case, it's more of a 
bust issue than tummy, which I take care of with gores.
When I wrote that this morning, what I was picturing was not only all 
the folk I know in the SCA who wear "I don't give a d@mn if it's old and 
grody, you can't make me wear anything else" tee tunics, but also all 
the larger people who seem to have bought into the 
tunic-or-houpe-as-medieval-equivalent-to-a-muumuu, when I know, from 
personal experience, that fit is just as important for those of us at 
the larger end of the bodily bell curve as it is for those who are 
otherwise blessed, if not more so!
I'd like to add that I know a variety of SCA people, mostly guys, who 
wear nicely fitting tunics or cotes, and their heights and weights vary 
significantly, but they all still look good.  It's the fit, and the 
right materials (natural fibers so ROCK!).
--sue

J Schueller wrote:
> 
>>  (Nothing against tee tunics, mind you, or any of the style-cousins, 
>> but many of the ones I've seen are old, sloppy, and badly-fitting.  
>> The nicely-fitting ones have just as much Yum! factor as other 
>> clothing styles. ;oD)
>> --sue
> 
> 
> I do seem to have MORE trouble getting a t-tunic to fit right then 
> getting a fitted bodice to fit right though. I have lots of trouble with 
> the tummy bigness in relation to the shoulders. (re my questions of 
> about a month ago! )
> 
> jordana

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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 21:14:48 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Alen/ell?
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
> 
> There is no "standard ell" that is recognized in all countries,
> especially during these earlier periods.   Depending upon your
> location (and this varied even within some countries), the ell could
> range from half a yard to around 1-1/4 yard.  And it sometimes
> differed depending upon what was being measured.

Cool, thank you. But to revert to my original question -- is there anyplace
where the various known ells have been compiled for comparison and/or
reference? You know, "English ell, 15th century, 1.25 modern yards;
Icelandinc ell, 14th century, 19.5 modern inches," etc.?

Thanks again,
Lauren

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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Sue Clemenger wrote:

> It's more of an issue with me, as well, but in my case, it's more of a 
> bust issue than tummy, which I take care of with gores.
> When I wrote that this morning, what I was picturing was not only all 
> the folk I know in the SCA who wear "I don't give a d@mn if it's old 
> and grody, you can't make me wear anything else" tee tunics, but also 
> all the larger people who seem to have bought into the 
> tunic-or-houpe-as-medieval-equivalent-to-a-muumuu, when I know, from 
> personal experience, that fit is just as important for those of us at 
> the larger end of the bodily bell curve as it is for those who are 
> otherwise blessed, if not more so!


Oh, jeez, don't get me started.  If I had a dollar for every fat SCAdian 
woman who seems to think that _huge_ clothes are somehow more 
modest/flattering/who knows what than clothes that fit, I would be a 
wealthy woman.  A fat, wealthy, well-dressed woman.

>
> I'd like to add that I know a variety of SCA people, mostly guys, who 
> wear nicely fitting tunics or cotes, and their heights and weights 
> vary significantly, but they all still look good.  It's the fit, and 
> the right materials (natural fibers so ROCK!).
>

Absolutely! 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 19:37:26 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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We get away with casualness in my company for several reasons, a couple 
of which are:
1.  Montana, as a whole, is a much more casual state than many others. 
Even the governor is known to wear jeans on occasion. <g>
2.  My department deals mostly with data, and virtually no face-to-face 
interactions with clients (that's what the Implementation Dept is for 
<g>...they're the ones who go out to districts and do training, or train 
in-house, and you can definitely tell when it's happening, because they 
all sprout dress pants and ties).
3.  My particular job (as a Data/project manager) involves a fair amount 
of client contact, but again, it's not face-to-face.  I need to know 
client-speak, etc., but they don't have a clue as to what I look like, 
nor do I, they.  Works okay with me, especially on hot summer days like 
this, when the air conditioning isn't working as well as it should, and 
the temp inside the building is somewhere in the 80's.  Definitely 
easier to deal with if I'm not forced into a suit and pantyhose....
--Sue

saka@toysmakeuspowerful.com wrote:


> I wonder if there is a trend that if a person is in a job that produces 
> something tangible, they can dress more casually?  The professional dressed
> ones are either managers, or sellers of the product, but don't produce anything.


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Alen/ell?
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On Thu, 14 Jul 2005, Lauren Walker wrote:

> Cool, thank you. But to revert to my original question -- is there
> anyplace where the various known ells have been compiled for
> comparison and/or reference? You know, "English ell, 15th century,
> 1.25 modern yards; Icelandinc ell, 14th century, 19.5 modern inches,"
> etc.?

I doubt you'll find anything that comprehensive. Sometimes measurements
varied by city, and I wouldn't place bets on them being standard over the
course of a century.

What you will find is references to specific times and places. I believe,
for example, that the facsimile edition of Alcega's pattern book has some
discussion of the ell lengths at that time and place (late 16th c. Spain)
to help you make sense of the patterns. 

If I needed this information, I'd start hunting through literature on
trade and guild regulations in the place and time of interest -- e.g. if I
were studying account books from 1362 London that included fabric orders
of ells, I'd want to know what regulations applied at that period in that
locale.

Where to look for that? I am sure there is a body of literature out there
on this, but it's just a little ways out of my field. I do have contact
with some people who do work in trade and economics, and truth is, if I
needed to know this, I'd probably call one of them, who could probably
know just which reference book to pull off the shelf. Assuming it was for
the right period and country for their expertise!

I do see citations like this on a fairly regular basis -- a few weeks ago
I edited an article comparing cloth production in various French cities
that had to translate the recorded production levels to a consistent rate
... let's see, 840 Flemish ells equalled about 679 Champagne ells or 640
modern yards, in that particular case. So you can see there was a lot of
variation. Among her citations were John Munro, "Textile Technology," in
The Dictionary of the Middle Ages, ed. Joseph R. Strayer (New York:
Scribner, 1988) and Patrick Chorley, "The Cloth Exports of Flanders and
Northern France During the Thirteenth Century: A Luxury Trade?" Economic
History Review, new series 40 (1987): 349-79. She probably got her
particular ell ratios from one of those. In turn, the article she used
might have cited either another paper or a primary source.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 21:51:36 -0400
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On Thursday 14 July 2005 2:51 am, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!
>
> Men have to be a little on the thin side for a suit to look that
> good.  Suits bulk out the man with a good bathing-suit-physique, and he
> looks, well, bulky.

There's some truth to that. 

In general, suits look best on guys with less than perfect figures; they give 
definition and bulk to the skinny, and conceal potbellies and other 
flab-related flaws.  But muscular men tend to have problems with wearing them 
unless they're tailored to perfection.  My husband is convinced that suits 
were designed to make men who work with their bodies (and thus have the 
muscle to prove it) look awkward, and he may have a point.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<20050714130220.k17co7r1n8u8sck8@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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> > http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Images/colourpics/8486.jpg ? And do
>
> OOh!  I've never seen that painting before!  Do you have more information
> about it?

http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/main.htm
Scroll down, just thought it owuld be nice to show a comparisson between it
and other examples of Spanish fashion.
I found it via the virtual tour on the museum site it is actually on. In the
virtual tour it was an amzing magenta colour, which is why we must always be
careful about colour unless one has seen an item in person. In outdoor
light.. which let's face it is not going to happen very often;)

If it's familiar, it appears in black and white in Patterns of Fashion with
different attribution.

As for jewellery, I've had to cobble mine from various sources (brass
filigree diamonds cut down and layered with other finding for brooches and
two plaque belts for the girdle and carcanet:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm


Amount of trim, I always guesstimate, I know my measurements pretty well now
to say for this example: two limes waist to floor, plus 10cm extra just in
case, 3m hem is usual, four times arm length, four times neck to waist plus
extra for the horizontal arm guards.

I think the wider trim is composed of narrow braid which is used also for
the tabs.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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An interesting book on this subject is "Uniforms: Why We Are What We 
Wear", by Paul Fussell, Mariner Books, 2002.


Your humble and obediant servant,
David S Mallinak

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Oh, jeez, don't get me started.  If I had a dollar for every fat SCAdian 
> woman who seems to think that _huge_ clothes are somehow more 
> modest/flattering/who knows what than clothes that fit, I would be a 
> wealthy woman.  A fat, wealthy, well-dressed woman.

What are the particular fitting problems you see?  Might be useful to 
point them out specifically.  My biggest annoyance is people putting the 
armscye halfway down their upper arm.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
      "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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It's more likely to be a complete *lack* of fitting, at least with the 
folks wearing problem tunics that I've seen.  It's as if people think 
tunic, and equate that with a shapeless potato sack, or an over-sized 
equivalent of a mundane tee shirt.  Seems to be more prevalent, or 
perhaps more noticeable, on larger people.  And being one, myself, I 
sometimes wonder how much of *that* is a combination of lack of sewing 
experience combined with years of mundane/modern experience with 
ill-fitting off-the-rack clothing. ;-(  And, of course, having the wrong 
fabrics (or less-than-appropriate fabrics) doesn't help any, either.
The other too-large/unfitted thing that I occasionally see is a strong 
tendency to using a houpelande without any kind of supportive underlayer 
(kirtle, gown, cote, whatever).  Looks like a big, sloppy tent on just 
about anyone of any size in that instance.

And speaking of armscyes, if I'm not careful, and do some moderate 
tweaking of my body-fabric, I end up with the armscyes on my tunics and 
rectangularly-constructed garments down around my *elbows.*  I am 
exceedingly large busted, and end up with *all* kinds of extra fabric 
coming off my shoulders that was needed just below to cover the bust. 
(And yeah, I know all about underarms gussets <g>.  They only help so 
much!)  I finally learned when, working on a shift to go with a 16th 
century Flemish outfit, and cross-referencing with some of my 18th c. 
stuff in books, that I could carefully remove slanted wedges on the 
sides of my body piece(s) from front underarm up over the shoulder to 
back underarm, and the finished result not only fitted *much, much* 
better, but the slanting was completely invisible unless you laid the 
finished garment down and looked for it.  Although I suppose it would 
also show slightly if the garment fabric were striped.  It's a solution, 
though, that your average non-costuming joe might not think of.
--Sue

Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> 
>> Oh, jeez, don't get me started.  If I had a dollar for every fat 
>> SCAdian woman who seems to think that _huge_ clothes are somehow more 
>> modest/flattering/who knows what than clothes that fit, I would be a 
>> wealthy woman.  A fat, wealthy, well-dressed woman.
> 
> 
> What are the particular fitting problems you see?  Might be useful to 
> point them out specifically.  My biggest annoyance is people putting the 
> armscye halfway down their upper arm.
> 

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Sue (and other large busted ladies out there!)

Here's a picture of my one and only tunic. It's linen, I need a better
undergarment (is a kind of old cotton bra... it was ~95 degrees and at
an outside demo from 10am to 6pm)

http://pics.livejournal.com/thalionar/pic/0003rrct/g10

One of the things I do (and I saw this *somewhere* with some sort of
documentation, but can't find it now!) is make the main panels (front
and back) the width of my shoulders, then make flat topped gores that
go from my armpits (where my chest starts to become "breast")  and
goes all the way to the hem. You can see the line of the gore going
over the curve of my breast. I then have a triangular shaped gusset at
the top of the gore that goes down the arm to about the elbow, and the
sleeve is tapered from my elbow to my wrist (well, on this one,
actually tapered to about my fingertips as I keep forgetting when I'm
not wearing it to trim the sleeve to length).

As you can see, the armscye is only about an inch down onto my shoulder.

If I'd had more fabric, I would have done center front and back gores.

-Irmgart

On 7/15/05, Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
> It's more likely to be a complete *lack* of fitting, at least with the
> folks wearing problem tunics that I've seen.  It's as if people think
> tunic, and equate that with a shapeless potato sack, or an over-sized
> equivalent of a mundane tee shirt.  Seems to be more prevalent, or
> perhaps more noticeable, on larger people.  And being one, myself, I
> sometimes wonder how much of *that* is a combination of lack of sewing
> experience combined with years of mundane/modern experience with
> ill-fitting off-the-rack clothing. ;-(  And, of course, having the wrong
> fabrics (or less-than-appropriate fabrics) doesn't help any, either.
> The other too-large/unfitted thing that I occasionally see is a strong
> tendency to using a houpelande without any kind of supportive underlayer
> (kirtle, gown, cote, whatever).  Looks like a big, sloppy tent on just
> about anyone of any size in that instance.
> 
> And speaking of armscyes, if I'm not careful, and do some moderate
> tweaking of my body-fabric, I end up with the armscyes on my tunics and
> rectangularly-constructed garments down around my *elbows.*  I am
> exceedingly large busted, and end up with *all* kinds of extra fabric
> coming off my shoulders that was needed just below to cover the bust.
> (And yeah, I know all about underarms gussets <g>.  They only help so
> much!)  I finally learned when, working on a shift to go with a 16th
> century Flemish outfit, and cross-referencing with some of my 18th c.
> stuff in books, that I could carefully remove slanted wedges on the
> sides of my body piece(s) from front underarm up over the shoulder to
> back underarm, and the finished result not only fitted *much, much*
> better, but the slanting was completely invisible unless you laid the
> finished garment down and looked for it.  Although I suppose it would
> also show slightly if the garment fabric were striped.  It's a solution,
> though, that your average non-costuming joe might not think of.
> --Sue

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The Workwoman's Guide (English, 1838)has an equivalency chart which 
includes French and English ells, which are larger than a yard:

2.25 inches make 1 nail
4 nails make 1 quarter
4 quarters make 1 yard
5 quarters make 1 English ell
6 quarters make 1 French ell

Anne
-- 
Anne Dealy

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Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 13:28:40 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Alen/ell?
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi, Robin,
Thank you for the ell info cites. I have a lot of Munro's stuff -- and am
mapping out my winter research plans, so these will go on the bibliography.
Right now the examples I've found and been given in response to this query
have given me enough to begin -- my first step is to get a handle on the
scope of variation, then narrow down to times and places relevant to my
bigger project and hunt the likely suspects there.

Thanks again!
Lauren
-- 
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net
-- 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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At 08:46 PM 7/14/2005, you wrote:
>As for jewellery, I've had to cobble mine from various sources (brass
>filigree diamonds cut down and layered with other finding for brooches and
>two plaque belts for the girdle and carcanet:
>http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm


Hi Michaela,

I remember when you posted about the jewelry some time ago. I really liked 
what you did. I've been wanting to do something similar to your jewelry for 
my Tudor project, but all I can seem to find are just the flat brass 
findings. That just doesn't give me the "weight" of the gold jewelry seen 
in the paintings. Where did you find the other findings that you used to 
give the jewelry a richer feel?

Kimiko


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul 15 17:38:01 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <20.48b8dad2.30073fc9@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740s characters
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 20:48:08 +0200
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Hi,
I think your ideas are brilliant. I dont want to make any changes, but only 
say that your mens jackets could be buttoned in the waist. (This would give 
the wearer's a more oldfashioned look) and just because they are puritans as 
you say.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 6:10 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 1740s characters


>A friend of mine has been asked to get together some costumes for a short
> promotional film to show investors and others in order to get funding to 
> do a
> whole film. He always comes to me for period consultation because he has 
> never
> studied any period clothing or costuming or design. But he's bright and 
> eager
> and learns fast. I come to consult you guys....
>
> Anyway, I haven't seen a script or anything but apparently the cast 
> includes
> 2 men, a son and father I think, who are Puritans in Ireland getting 
> ready
> to go to the new world. There is also a Catholic servant girl. It is the 
> 1740s.
>
> Obviously things need to look good and interesting....and convincing. 
> We're
> trying to sell the thing, right?
>
> I thought the men would be in well made fine clothes in dark colors 
> [wool]
> devoid of trim. Nice but not flashy buttons...perhaps of the  coat fabric 
> or
> matching,certainly analogous, in coloring, and button holes  [uncut] being 
> the
> only decorations. The silhouette should be reasonably  fashionable I
> think...they aren't poor. So the coat skirts would be full  with fairly 
> large cuffs, no
> collar. The waistcoats kinda long and buttoned high.  No frills on the
> shirt...but a stock [right?]. Plain stockings [dark?] and  buckled shoes. 
> Could I get
> away with a coat buttoning? In the 1740s, the  coats' CF don't curve over 
> the
> breast do they? They are straight.
>
> The men will most likely be rented. Any suggestions on where to go before 
> we
> just call Western Costume or something?
>
> The girl [which I may make for my friend] I want to put in a jacket  and
> petticoat. I'd do a simple gown...but the fabric I want to  use is only a 
> 4 yard
> piece. It's a cotton that is dark dark OD  green...unevenly dyed...with a 
> sprig
> with leaves printed all over in dark grey.  Looks blockprinted. It'd make 
> a
> great jacket with some modest skirts  and laced up CF. I need some 
> instructions
> on how to do a single  lace. A dark petticoat and a pinner apron. A fichu
> should fill in....in a  very modest way, the neckline. A linen cap...maybe 
> one of
> those that has wide  ties that go behind the ears and under the chin. 
> She's
> not Puritan remember  so maybe line the jacket with brick red...a glimpse 
> of
> color. The apron  shouldn't be white either I think. Maybe out and out 
> beige or
> brown. Striped?  Like ticking?
>
> What do y'all think? Any interesting details I might add to the men or 
> girl
> you can think of? Like I said....haven't seen a script. Maybe it will 
> suggest
> some good details...like scissors or keys on hanging from the girls
> waist...y'know, that kind of thing.
>
> Any suggestions and insights...or inside info on the period or 
> Puritans...is
> greatly appreciated.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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Hi,
I think perhaps one of the reasons men dont want to stand out in fashion is 
because they are afraid that it would give them a gayish image. This is one 
of the major reasons today i think.
50 years ago it was not the case i think because then gay people still lived 
in their closets.
Back in time, i dont think that the wife would go with her husband to his 
tailor to make choises for him. The tailor would have ben his guide!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J Schueller" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 3:42 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)


>
>>Does anyone else find a man in a well-fitted suit drop-dead sexy? Rarr!
>>
>>Dianne
>>
> Yes, and i keep trying to convice my husband tio wear that stuff, but he 
> says since he put on the years to get a phd, he does not have to wear 
> that, and so i have to subsite on him in khakies :(
>
> Now, to bring this back onto a historical note, I have a thought question. 
> I was talking to some guys at work (older)  and they siad that they had 
> never bought cloths for themselfs, their wifes had always boght their 
> clothes.
> So, how much of what guys wore over the centries has been what they wanted 
> to wear, and how much of it was chosen by thier womanfolks?
>
> A;sp. it seems like many modern guys dislike "dressing up" per say (say 
> tux and such) and the popular image is that women like to dress up more 
> then guys.  has this always been the popular image?
>
> jordana
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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At 11:42 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote:
>Now, i have ben on this list for long, so please forgive my 
>ignorance but what is the difference between velveteen and velvet?
>I only know the rayon velvet and cotton velvet. Did i miss something?
>
>Bjarne

The technical (weaving) difference between velvet and velveteen is 
that the velvet pile is made with extra warp threads while the 
velveteen pile is made with extra weft threads.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology
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>From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1136920403.8a0c5b@thibault.org>
>Did you skip a cite there?  I don't see something which says it wasn't
>worn with some kind of body linen layer under it.  "a body garment or
>coat" seems to imply "tunic" could apply to both layers.

I think we're interpretting what the "body" applies to "alone", or 'garment 
or coat" equally.  You may well be right, I don't know.

Marc


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Adele de Maisieres wrote:
>
>> People here practically use "t-tunic" as a techinical term.   It 
>> means "a basic tunic with a rectangular front and back, unshaped 
>> sleeve heads, small square gussets at the armpit and two-piece gores 
>> in the side-seam."  Great shorthand when you want to use that as a 
>> starting pount for descriding something -- ie, "it's just like a 
>> t-tunic only it has additional gores at the cente front and back" etc.
>
>
> Interesting -- to me, it's not really a proper tunic without center 
> front and back gores.  Otherwise that's a great description.
>
> Where's "here?"  NZ on your email means New Zealand, I'd guess?
>
Yup, Christchurch, New Zealand.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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The picture is on my renaissance dress diary page and I've linked to 
from http://www.flg.es/ficha.asp?ID=8486
and unfortunately its the only picture I can find. Janet Arnold has it 
in black and white in her book.
Cheers, Aylwen

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Just an idea, but you might be able to find large-linked gold chains at 
jewelers/merchants who cater to SCA customers.  They're used as a symbol 
of rank for members of the Chivalry (Knights or Masters-at-Arms).  I 
know there are a variety of them online, although I don't really 
purchase much.  If you like, I could ask on a couple of sca-specific 
lists, though.
--sue

Irmgart wrote:

> You do often see the big gold chains with this fashion. Personally, I
> have not been able to find anything even remotely close other than
> "decorative chain" from the hardware store, and that does not have the
> right "look" to me.
> 
> photos of extant jewelry: 
> http://www.curiousfrau.com/Articles/jewelry.htm
> 
> I'm currently trying for a middle class/Kampfollower portrayal... so
> might not have as much in the way of heavy gold jewelry.
> 
> Also, I personally don't have the money to buy what I think will look
> "right." I'm *always* on the lookout, though.
> 
> There are a couple of paintings with that style dress without as much
> in the way of chains:
> 
> http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach45.html
> http://www.st-max.org/images/woodcuts/Kampfrau4.jpg
> http://www.uni-leipzig.de/ru/bilder/luther/cranac02.jpg
> 
> -Irmgart


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One website that i would love to do (when i have the fitting ability) is 
do a web site with various people and show the first fit of a t-tunic, 
and then how it looks as one changes each measurement to get a great 
fitting tunic. 

can you tell that i am a math teacher (methodical, methodical, and 
methodical)

\Sue Clemenger wrote:

> It's more of an issue with me, as well, but in my case, it's more of a 
> bust issue than tummy, which I take care of with gores.
> When I wrote that this morning, what I was picturing was not only all 
> the folk I know in the SCA who wear "I don't give a d@mn if it's old 
> and grody, you can't make me wear anything else" tee tunics, but also 
> all the larger people who seem to have bought into the 
> tunic-or-houpe-as-medieval-equivalent-to-a-muumuu, when I know, from 
> personal experience, that fit is just as important for those of us at 
> the larger end of the bodily bell curve as it is for those who are 
> otherwise blessed, if not more so!
> I'd like to add that I know a variety of SCA people, mostly guys, who 
> wear nicely fitting tunics or cotes, and their heights and weights 
> vary significantly, but they all still look good.  It's the fit, and 
> the right materials (natural fibers so ROCK!).
> --sue
>
> J Schueller wrote:
>
>>
>>>  (Nothing against tee tunics, mind you, or any of the style-cousins, 
>>> but many of the ones I've seen are old, sloppy, and badly-fitting.  
>>> The nicely-fitting ones have just as much Yum! factor as other 
>>> clothing styles. ;oD)
>>> --sue
>>
>>
>>
>> I do seem to have MORE trouble getting a t-tunic to fit right then 
>> getting a fitted bodice to fit right though. I have lots of trouble 
>> with the tummy bigness in relation to the shoulders. (re my questions 
>> of about a month ago! )
>>
>> jordana
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Future ware(gloves)
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> In general, suits look best on guys with less than perfect figures; they 
> give  definition and bulk to the skinny, and conceal potbellies and other 
> flab-related flaws.  But muscular men tend to have problems with wearing 
> them
> unless they're tailored to perfection.  My husband is convinced that suits 
> were designed to make men who work with their bodies (and thus have the 
> muscle to prove it) look awkward, and he may have a point.

> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

I don't think anyone looks good in a suit that doesn't fit.  There are a 
very few men who can walk into a store and buy off the rack; all the rest 
have to have them tailored.  The best suit my husband ever had was the one 
he had tailor made in London when he was in the Army, and he most certainly 
was in great shape then (and not bad now).

Melusine 

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Subject: [h-cost] _huge_ clothes (Was Future ware(gloves))
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At 06:25 PM 7/14/2005, you wrote:
>Oh, jeez, don't get me started.  If I had a dollar for every fat SCAdian 
>woman who seems to think that _huge_ clothes are somehow more 
>modest/flattering/who knows what than clothes that fit, I would be a 
>wealthy woman.  A fat, wealthy, well-dressed woman.


As someone who's had to relearn a few things about personal fashion... I 
have come to realize personally that such large garments are an attempt, at 
least by me, to hide who I was inside by hiding behind the oversized 
garments I wore on the outside. It had nothing to do with fit, but personal 
body image and a lack of self esteem.

I recently made a modern garment that I thought would look attractive, and 
I am almost finished with it. But because my self esteem has returned, I 
realized when I put the garment on for fitting that I was wearing another 
shapeless shirt, and that I didn't want to hide myself anymore. So now it 
is in the closet awaiting the final collar facing and buttons, and is now 
unwanted. I will probably eBay it to someone else if I can finish it.

Mind you, I know fitted garments. I wear fitted bodices in my Tudor and 
Elizabethan gowns. I've enjoyed fitted peasant bodices as well. But those 
are "costumes" in that I am playing dress up and the character I put on 
isn't "me", while modern garments have to reflect the real me, who I am inside.

Other thought I have on your statement, perhaps we need to try and educate 
those people?

Take bras for example, I had to train my best friend when we were both 
younger that her skimpy, thin, no support bras were bad for her posture, 
looks, and even the amount of breast tissue her bras were *not* holding. It 
wasn't until I got her into a good department store, and had her properly 
fitted in a well supporting bra, did she even begin to realize what was 
right, and where she had gone so very wrong. It really perked her up, both 
in figure and mentally.

However, I am also all to aware that some people just either don't want to 
be educated, or ignore any advice for who knows what reason. There was one 
lady I have in mind who asked me two years ago for various advice on making 
a well fitted garment for her character (she was supposedly portraying 
something comparable to a Countess). As of last fall she still was wearing 
the frumpy muu-muu bag dress which she has worn for a year prior to asking 
my advice. I understand she still wears that same "dress", because she's so 
busy making everyone else's garb. However, she's the leader of her group... 
if she doesn't dress well for her station, how is she going to expect 
others to dress well for their station, especially when they are in court?

But I better stop before I go on and on and on....

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)

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STOP the surgers! The gig's off.
 
They want us to do it for FREE. That's right, not at a reduced rate  
even....or for a nice dinner somewhere even...but Free.
 
NOT
 
I wonder if the actors, camera crew, lighting grips, and location people  are 
doing it for FREE. What do you think?
 
What is wrong with these people? How experienced can they be in film if  they 
expect costumes for free? Do they think this is the Middle School  play? They 
expressed a need for "accuracy and attention to detail." How about  the 
detail that Mr. Lincoln ended slavery. Get your grandmother to sew something  up 
for you Bud....I'm outta here!
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Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 16:50:25 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] _huge_ clothes (Was Future ware(gloves))
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(After much snippage of some excellent insights.....)

After a number of years at the RenFaire, I made an interesting
observation when one of our larger ladies tried on a man's surcoat for a
lark one day. She looked really nice in it! Many larger ladies that I
have seen (not all, but some!) seem to think that a corset/period bodice
is a magic girdle that will make them thinner if they can just lace it
down enough. This results in the 'stuffed sausage' look that I think is
really painful looking and unpleasant. When this lady put on the surcoat,
it skimmed over her body in such a way that made her look very majestic
and very elegant. Please note that a well-fitted surcoat is NOT the same
as an ill-fitting costume. 

Just my tuppence!

Karen
Seamstrix



On Thu, 14 Jul 2005 19:57:36 -0700 Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
writes:
> At 06:25 PM 7/14/2005, you wrote:
> >Oh, jeez, don't get me started.  If I had a dollar for every fat 
> SCAdian 
> >woman who seems to think that _huge_ clothes are somehow more 
> >modest/flattering/who knows what than clothes that fit, I would be 
> a wealthy woman.  A fat, wealthy, well-dressed woman.
> 
> 
> As someone who's had to relearn a few things about personal 
> fashion... I 
> have come to realize personally that such large garments are an 
> attempt, at 
> least by me, to hide who I was inside by hiding behind the oversized 
> garments I wore on the outside. It had nothing to do with fit, but 
> personal 
> body image and a lack of self esteem.
> 
> Kimiko
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Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 16:52:55 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740's characters
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Well Albert, I hate to say it, but anybody that thinks that Puritans were
still around in the 1740's probably hasn't paid that much attention in
the first place and so doesn't really kow what he is asking for.


Karen
Seamstrix


On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 07:46:29 EDT AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
> STOP the surgers! The gig's off.
>  
> They want us to do it for FREE. That's right, not at a reduced rate  
> 
> even....or for a nice dinner somewhere even...but Free.
>  
> NOT
>  
> I wonder if the actors, camera crew, lighting grips, and location 
> people  are 
> doing it for FREE. What do you think?
>  
> What is wrong with these people? How experienced can they be in film 
> if  they 
> expect costumes for free? Do they think this is the Middle School  
> play? They 
> expressed a need for "accuracy and attention to detail." How about  
> the 
> detail that Mr. Lincoln ended slavery. Get your grandmother to sew 
> something  up 
> for you Bud....I'm outta here!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Tunic terminology
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On Thu, 14 Jul 2005, Marc Carlson wrote:

> >From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1136920403.8a0c5b@thibault.org>
> >Did you skip a cite there?  I don't see something which says it wasn't
> >worn with some kind of body linen layer under it.  "a body garment or
> >coat" seems to imply "tunic" could apply to both layers.
> 
> I think we're interpretting what the "body" applies to "alone", or 'garment 
> or coat" equally.  You may well be right, I don't know.

The MED quote you gave was "A garment resembling a shirt or gown, worn
alone or beneath a mantle, armor, etc." It sounds to me that they were
contrasting "worn alone" as versus "worn with another layer over it." I
don't see any implication as to whether anything was or wasn't worn
*under* it. Underwear (being unseen and also not much thought about by
non-clothing historians) is typically ignored in these types of
definitions. In the same way, I might say that the fitted dress could be
worn "alone" or with a sideless surcote or houppeland over it, but that
wouldn't mean that there's no chemise beneath.

The phrase "body garment" was used not in the same quote as "alone"; it
was in another source, the OED, as you quote: "In Old English and
mediaeval times, a body garment or coat over which a loose mantle of cloak
was worn."

My understanding is that "body garment" doesn't mean "body linen" or "worn
against the body" -- it means a major garment designed to cover the body
(that is, the torso, with or without limbs), e.g. a gown or shirt or coat.
It's used in the same way that "headdress" is a generic term for a garment
covering the head or "footwear" is a general term for garments covering
the feet.

I suppose "body garment" could be applied to garments that cover part of
the body, particularly taken as a set (e.g. a man's suit), but usually
individual garment names are used to distinguish pieces like trousers,
blouses, skirts. As a category, they can all be lumped in as "body
garments" as opposed to "headdress" and "footwear."

As I've been accustomed to reading it, if there's any implication of layer
in "body garment," it's typically a visible layer. I probably wouldn't
blink to see a chemise described as a body garment, though. It's a very
generic categorical term.

--Robin


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In a message dated 7/15/2005 6:04:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
penhalion@juno.com writes:

Well  Albert, I hate to say it, but anybody that thinks that Puritans were
still  around in the 1740's


Are you kidding? We have Puritans in Kansas today!
 
Seriously, I know what you mean. But I didn't think they meant Puritans in  
the dictionary sense. I assumed they meant "Puritanical" types. Now, of course, 
 I think you're absolutely correct.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Men in suits (was: Future ware(gloves)
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> I disagree.  I have yet to find a man, of whatever physique, who doesn't 
> look good in a suit.  This includes a good friend who's at least 100 lbs 
> overweight.
>
> Melusine

Oh I've found one who doesn't look good in a suit. Peter Jackson. His 
clothes always  look wrinkled and badly worn, no matter what he wears, I 
don't know why... 
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> STOP the surgers! The gig's off.
>  
> They want us to do it for FREE. That's right, not at a reduced rate  
> even....or for a nice dinner somewhere even...but Free.
>  
> NOT

Well, hey, if they can come up with some FREE fabric, trims, buttons, 
and notions, a couple of FREE patterns, a FREE sewing machine or two I 
might consider throwing in the free labor....

Or not. :)


Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Alen/ell?
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>On Thu, 14 Jul 2005, Lauren Walker wrote:
> > Cool, thank you. But to revert to my original question -- is there
> > anyplace where the various known ells have been compiled for
> > comparison and/or reference? You know, "English ell, 15th century,
> > 1.25 modern yards; Icelandinc ell, 14th century, 19.5 modern inches,"
> > etc.?

I've seen very few lists, and they are -far- from comprehensive.  For 
example, in the OED "A measure of length varying in different countries. The 
English ell = 45 in.; the Scotch = 37·2; the Flemish = 27 in."

Marc


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] _huge_ clothes (Was Future ware(gloves))
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Kimiko Small wrote:

> At 06:25 PM 7/14/2005, you wrote:
>
>> Oh, jeez, don't get me started.  If I had a dollar for every fat 
>> SCAdian woman who seems to think that _huge_ clothes are somehow more 
>> modest/flattering/who knows what than clothes that fit, I would be a 
>> wealthy woman.  A fat, wealthy, well-dressed woman.
>
>
>
> As someone who's had to relearn a few things about personal fashion... 
> I have come to realize personally that such large garments are an 
> attempt, at least by me, to hide who I was inside by hiding behind the 
> oversized garments I wore on the outside. It had nothing to do with 
> fit, but personal body image and a lack of self esteem.


<snip of many more worthwhile comments>

Thanks for reading my mind :-)

Adele
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 3:29 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question


> At 07:14 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote:
> >  And where on earth would one find the jewellery?
>
>
> There is a company in England that makes pewter replicas of Tudor jewelry
> (and other jewelry things, spoons, collars, etc.), and he notes that he
> makes custom pieces as well.
> http://www.tudorjewels.com/ (for the historical images)
> http://www.pewterreplicas.com/ (to order the same)
>
> While it may not be exactly what you are looking for, some of the patterns
> appear similar, or he could make them for you.
>
> I have not ordered from him yet, but plan on doing so later this year when
> I have some more money.
>
> Kimiko
>
I agree that Steve Millingham's work is really fabulous but if your budget
doesn't stretch that far look at http://www.sapphireandsage.com/index.html
especially the portrait reproduction section, whilst these are not exact
replicas (as she doesn't make her own settings) they do a very good job of
imitating the style fairly closely (I'm lusting after the reproduction of
Princess Mary Tudor's necklaces)
the "Queen Elizabeth I" Cluster Necklace (under portrait reproductions) is
fairly similar to this portrait
http://www.photo.rmn.fr/c/htm/CSearchZ.aspx?o=&Total=2&FP=3825164&E=22S39UNTBJPH&SID=22S39UNTBJPH&New=T&Pic=2&SubE=2C6NU0XQAIT8
(or the short version http://snipurl.com/gagx) which is Spanish from the
same era (I found it via Michaela's page) but if you're doing a large ruff a
collar close to the neck may not show up very well. Alternately, some of the
other examples show just a long strand of pearls (I use one short & one long
strand of fake pearls with a pendant tied onto the shorter one)
HTH
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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In a message dated 7/15/2005 9:02:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

Well,  hey, if they can come up with some FREE fabric, trims, buttons, 
and  notions, a couple of FREE patterns, a FREE sewing machine or two I 
might  consider throwing in the free labor....

Or not.  :)



Exactly. I mean I don't expect union rates for a feature film, but to offer  
nothing at all???!
 
It's a strange mentality when it comes to costuming. Just eat some pins and  
fabrics and pull it out of your ass! But we'll pay a fortune for the set.  
Ooooooo...it's so BIG! Yeah...well there only like 3 or 4 sets [in  
theatre....dozens in film] but there like 40 to 100 costumes [in a big theatre  
production....thousands in film].
 
And as my set designer friend used to point out: "I can suggest a wall or  an 
arch. You can't suggest a bodice or a pair of shoes...they have to be  there."
 
I once had a tech director sigh at me and say "Y'know, the costumes don't  
have to fit perfectly". To which I said "And the lighting designer doesn't have  
to light the whole stage, just some general illumination will do. And the  
actors don't have to get their lines exactly right; as long as it sounds  
something like what Shakespeare wrote. And...."
 
"OK. OK. I get your point." he said walking away.
 
When I worked on "Last of the Mohican" the Brits on the crew couldn't  
understand the low esteem costuming was held in.
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On Thursday 14 July 2005 9:59 pm, Carmen Beaudry wrote:
[snip]
>
> I don't think anyone looks good in a suit that doesn't fit.  There are a
> very few men who can walk into a store and buy off the rack; all the rest
> have to have them tailored.  The best suit my husband ever had was the one
> he had tailor made in London when he was in the Army, and he most certainly
> was in great shape then (and not bad now).

I quite agree.  Tailoring is everything to making a suit look well on a man, 
and vice versa.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Men in suits (was: Future ware(gloves)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 00:25:27 -0400
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On Friday 15 July 2005 6:44 pm, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> > I disagree.  I have yet to find a man, of whatever physique, who doesn't
> > look good in a suit.  This includes a good friend who's at least 100 lbs
> > overweight.
> >
> > Melusine
>
> Oh I've found one who doesn't look good in a suit. Peter Jackson. His
> clothes always  look wrinkled and badly worn, no matter what he wears, I
> don't know why...

Probably because he buys them off the rack.  Melusine is right; fit is 
important, and stocky men are one group that are exceptionally badly served 
by the standard sizing.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] _huge_ clothes (Was Future ware(gloves))
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At 02:50 PM 7/15/2005, you wrote:
>After a number of years at the RenFaire, I made an interesting
>observation when one of our larger ladies tried on a man's surcoat for a
>lark one day. She looked really nice in it! Many larger ladies that I
>have seen (not all, but some!) seem to think that a corset/period bodice
>is a magic girdle that will make them thinner if they can just lace it
>down enough. This results in the 'stuffed sausage' look that I think is
>really painful looking and unpleasant. When this lady put on the surcoat,
>it skimmed over her body in such a way that made her look very majestic
>and very elegant. Please note that a well-fitted surcoat is NOT the same
>as an ill-fitting costume.
>
>Just my tuppence!
>
>Karen
>Seamstrix


Very much agreed!

I am not sure what kind of men's surcoat you are thinking of (my mind goes 
to Henry VIII's big puffy sleeved surcoat). Even my ladies Spanish surcoat 
(a la Patterns of Fashion) that is fitted to my upper body looks very nice 
on me, just skimming my uncorseted body (I was post pregnant at the time), 
and even flattering over my Tudor gown with hoops (but too short for hoops 
on its own). I love the thing and will be making another in a nicer fabric 
for next spring, along with a maternity kirtle (gotta figure out how to 
make the kirtle really usable for breastfeeding, first).

Kimiko


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At 09:05 PM 7/15/2005, you wrote:
>When I worked on "Last of the Mohican" the Brits on the crew couldn't
>understand the low esteem costuming was held in.


*I* don't understand why such low esteem either. What is it with people 
today that expect couture level work, and want it for free or at Wal-Mart 
prices?

Grrrrrrrrrr.

Kimiko


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At 06:56 PM 7/15/2005, you wrote:
><snip of many more worthwhile comments>
>
>Thanks for reading my mind :-)
>
>Adele


You are welcome! I am glad I am not the only one who felt that way.

Kimiko


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> At 07:14 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote:
> >  And where on earth would one find the jewellery?
>
>
> There is a company in England that makes pewter replicas of Tudor jewelry
> (and other jewelry things, spoons, collars, etc.), and he notes that he
> makes custom pieces as well.
> http://www.tudorjewels.com/ (for the historical images)
> http://www.pewterreplicas.com/ (to order the same)

Be aware that Steve Millingham's pieces are very, very heavy, being pewter
castings. I have worked with his jewellery, and in fact some of his Anne
Boleyn and Henry Vlll pieces were originally designed for a customer of
mine. You could also try http://www.anniethepedlar.com, who made all the
pieces for my Elizabeth figure. She works in brass, and will custom make. I
would always use her pieces as a first choice.


Suzi
www.suziclarke.co.uk

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <8A26BCF2-F471-11D9-8439-000393B11100@earthlydelights.com.au><20050714130220.k17co7r1n8u8sck8@www.goldsword.com><00a101c588ef$ca8f2ff0$0301010a@michaela>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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> > http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm

> I remember when you posted about the jewelry some time ago. I really liked
> what you did. I've been wanting to do something similar to your jewelry
for
> my Tudor project, but all I can seem to find are just the flat brass
> findings. That just doesn't give me the "weight" of the gold jewelry seen
> in the paintings. Where did you find the other findings that you used to
> give the jewelry a richer feel?


Thanks:) Basically I just layered pieces up until they felt about right. So
it's really just a matter of hunting down bits and pieces and keeping them
on hand. I'm slightly annoyed as at the time I couldn't find those plaque
bracelets that had been everywhere shortly before. I know Avon made one...
Well I did find one, but it was $30 which was a tad steep considering I
would have needed more than 3;)

The layers go:
brooch pin: Spotlight (25NZc each)
filigree brass bit: Spotlight ($NZ1.75 each)
bracelet plaque with "gem" : e Thing (like a dollar store) ($NZ3 for each
bracelet with 6 or more useable plaques)

I now have 22 brooches.

The pearls I used are all glass, and weigh a fair bit as well;) 44 pearl
knots of 47 pearls each... But it does seem to give a good pull to the
costume... They too came from a dollar stoore. The larger pearls on the
carcanet and girdle were $NZ3 a strand (fairly standard size, to the collar
bone) the smaller $NZ2 per strand. It took four strands to make five knots.

I'm also looking to see if I can get some of my plaque belts and other
findings electroplated into a nice bright brass. Luckily one of the
companies that did the electroplating for some Lord of the Rings mail is
fairly close by. I'm going to see if I can get my silver mug replated at the
same time.

I would use more of the filigree bits for my carcanet and girdle, but it
took nearly a year for the nearest Spotlight store to get more of the ones I
used;) I may have to order some in if the wait time isn't too bad.

regards,
michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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> >Oh, jeez, don't get me started. If I had a dollar for every fat 
> SCAdian 
> >woman who seems to think that _huge_ clothes are somehow more 
> >modest/flattering/who knows what than clothes that fit, I would be 
> a wealthy woman. A fat, wealthy, well-dressed woman.
 
Here! here! I second that! .LOL!!!!!!   
 
AS for men in suits GEt em taylored guys! you look beter and we women notice these things! LOL.... TEh better teh Fit the more women notice.. Rrrarrrr.... 
 
IMHO
 
Satine...


		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jul 16 10:50:19 2005
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bjarne
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Back in 1985-86, for a couple of terms, I was a junior mistress in the boarding house of a private girls school in Toowoomba, which is a large country town on the top of a mountain range, a couple of hours drive west of Brisbane. ( Winter is looong - lasts for about 6 months of the year - and cold and windy, being on the top of a mountain. Even in summer you never went anywhere at night without taking a jacket. ) The Headmistress of boarding had only been in Toowoomba for a couple of years, having come from Southport, on the Gold Coast. ( Think California - beaches, lots of deep tans. ) 

She had two teenage sons, who came with her to Toowoomba. She told me that when they moved to Toowoomba, her oldest son commented to her about how beautiful girls' skins were. He had never seen so many rose petal complexions! ( I was impressed that a teenage boy noticed! ) 

But it was true, the girls had lovely skin. Generally skins were much fairer and less weathered than on people who lived in less chilly areas, I think mostly because it was too cold to spend much time out of doors during the winter months. I know that personally, after two years of living there, I had lovely pale skin, but within two weeks of moving back to Brisbane, I was tanned again, without trying to tan. :-( 

Joannah.   

--- Robert Uhl <eadmund42@gmail.com> wrote:

<snip>
> Will untanned skin become fashionable again as a sign you take the
> extra time to hide your skin from the sun?

One can only hope so.  There's nothing quite so pretty as a fair-skinned
girl with a rosy blush to her cheeks!



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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Italian cotehardie/GFD question
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Robin, I know that Italian garb isn't your regular focus of interest, but I have
a question about 2 paintings .....

http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giottino/pieta.jpg
http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giovanni/milano/birth.jpg

The first by Giottino was painted in 1365; the second by Giovanni da Milano was
also painted in 1365.

The "inverse scoop" neckline seems to be common in Italian garb, but the
question is about the bicolor gowns -- the donor lady in black and grey in the
Pieta, and the red and cream in the Birth of the Virgin.

I'm thinking that since both of these women are spectators or donors rather than
Saints, that this just might be "Real Clothes."  Even though your area of
expertise *isn't* Italian, what your thoughts on these gowns are.

(for more info on the paintings go to
http://www.wga.hu/html/g/giottino/pieta.html
http://www.wga.hu/html/g/giovanni/milano/birth.html

Thanks!
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Hi Joannah,
Interresting thoaght, but i was a little confused because of the headder in 
the post.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joannah Hansen" <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 4:49 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bjarne


> Back in 1985-86, for a couple of terms, I was a junior mistress in the 
> boarding house of a private girls school in Toowoomba, which is a large 
> country town on the top of a mountain range, a couple of hours drive west 
> of Brisbane. ( Winter is looong - lasts for about 6 months of the year - 
> and cold and windy, being on the top of a mountain. Even in summer you 
> never went anywhere at night without taking a jacket. ) The Headmistress 
> of boarding had only been in Toowoomba for a couple of years, having come 
> from Southport, on the Gold Coast. ( Think California - beaches, lots of 
> deep tans. )
>
> She had two teenage sons, who came with her to Toowoomba. She told me that 
> when they moved to Toowoomba, her oldest son commented to her about how 
> beautiful girls' skins were. He had never seen so many rose petal 
> complexions! ( I was impressed that a teenage boy noticed! )
>
> But it was true, the girls had lovely skin. Generally skins were much 
> fairer and less weathered than on people who lived in less chilly areas, I 
> think mostly because it was too cold to spend much time out of doors 
> during the winter months. I know that personally, after two years of 
> living there, I had lovely pale skin, but within two weeks of moving back 
> to Brisbane, I was tanned again, without trying to tan. :-(
>
> Joannah.
>
> --- Robert Uhl <eadmund42@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> <snip>
>> Will untanned skin become fashionable again as a sign you take the
>> extra time to hide your skin from the sun?
>
> One can only hope so.  There's nothing quite so pretty as a fair-skinned
> girl with a rosy blush to her cheeks!
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community!
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jul 16 12:41:37 2005
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Do you suppose that in the next 20 or 30 years India and China will 
become important world powers, and start driving more fashion trends 
instead of being places the US goes to have things made cheap?

As for outsourcing garment manufacture, I think the US will continue 
doing it, but somewhere other than in those countries if wages rise there.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jul 16 13:19:05 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Future garments again
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Hello,

I do think that India and China will become much more influential in 
the next 20-30 years, and not just in fashion.  (Don't get me started 
on the state of education in this country.  I'm constantly appalled at 
the simple words and concepts of which my university junior and seniors 
have no knowledge. Examples, 'calendrical', 'intimate', and 'monarchy')

US companies will continue to shop around for the best deal in apparel 
production, because the majority of the market in the US is in the 
budget/ low-end range.  People are not willing to spend the money on 
higher priced/ higher quality garments.  It's simple economics, really. 
  It's why I try my hardest to avoid the box stores when possible.  
Companies like LL Bean and Pendleton have found niche markets catering 
to a customer that desires a higher quality at a higher price.  Unless 
things have changed recently, both companies manufacture mostly in the 
US, with the exception of a few items.

YMMV,
Althea

On Saturday, July 16, 2005, at 09:40 AM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> Do you suppose that in the next 20 or 30 years India and China will 
> become important world powers, and start driving more fashion trends 
> instead of being places the US goes to have things made cheap?
>
> As for outsourcing garment manufacture, I think the US will continue 
> doing it, but somewhere other than in those countries if wages rise 
> there.
>

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Reunite Pangaea!

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
people.
- Giordano Bruno

Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
- Gunn

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Have you considered making a square-necked kirtle (ala Lady Burghley) and then having it open/close down the center front (at least to the waist) with either hooks and eyes or lacing? That way you could open it for breast feeding and hook/lace it back together for wearing. If you made it snug fitting, it would probably give you decent support too.

No personal experience in the area, just an idea.


Karen
Seamstrix


Kimiko writes:
 I love the thing and will be making another in a nicer fabric 
for next spring, along with a maternity kirtle (gotta figure out how to 
make the kirtle really usable for breastfeeding, first).

Kimiko


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Future garments again
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 10:46:44 -0700
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Umm...  As a long time Pendleton customer, at least for the fabric, and
Pendleton, Oregon native I have to tell you that must of the clothing is
actually manufactured in places like Mexico.  The woolen fabric is woven
here in Pendleton, Portland, and Washougal, WA, but the clothing is put
together elsewhere.

The Blankets are made here though! :-)  The mill outlets are EVIL places.
What you see is what you get; however when that happens you can get
beautiful yardage for $10 a yard and under!

On the other hand doesn't it seem like current western fashion (shirts,
pants, etc.) have pretty much taken over from "traditional" garments?  India
is one of the few places where I see women in things like sari's, salwar's
and cameeze.  Even then the children are frequently in pants and shirts that
look like they originally came from a US catalogue.

Regina
> snip<

>   It's why I try my hardest to avoid the box stores when possible.
> Companies like LL Bean and Pendleton have found niche markets catering
> to a customer that desires a higher quality at a higher price.  Unless
> things have changed recently, both companies manufacture mostly in the
> US, with the exception of a few items.
>
> YMMV,
> Althea
>

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If we're talking 20-30 years from now, that's enough time for Indians to 
start a retro trend. Mybe not precisely traditional clothing but styles 
derived from it, or traditional fabrics made into nontraditional 
styles.  Or maybe color influences, or several of the above.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>On the other hand doesn't it seem like current western fashion (shirts,
>pants, etc.) have pretty much taken over from "traditional" garments?  India
>is one of the few places where I see women in things like sari's, salwar's
>and cameeze.  Even then the children are frequently in pants and shirts that
>look like they originally came from a US catalogue.
>
>Regina
>  
>
>  
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Future garments again
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Hello again :)

Yes, Pendleton does do some off-shore production, but their emphasis is 
still on quality.  I don't really know if this translates into higher 
wages/ better conditions for workers in Mexico.  I should look into it. 
  I'm sure one of my students will ask about it. :)

There are other companies, such as Winter Sun, that produces off-shore 
but works very closely with the workers to create a unique garment and 
enrich (a Western concept, to be sure) their lives.  This company also 
uses a local tree nut as the source of their buttons, which helps to 
preserve the local environment.  So off-shore sourcing does not 
automatically means 'bad'.  But it takes a LOT of work and time and 
money to bring it above slave wage. (oops, my bias is showing)

As to Western dress in India, from what I have read, it is usually the 
males that adopt world dress first.  We already have many influences 
making the way from India (sari fabric, mendhi (Sp)).   I think it is 
rather unfortunate that one mode of dress is coming to dominate.  There 
are so many beautiful styles of dress out there, especially the sari.

Althea



On Saturday, July 16, 2005, at 10:46 AM, Wanda Pease wrote:

> Umm...  As a long time Pendleton customer, at least for the fabric, and
> Pendleton, Oregon native I have to tell you that must of the clothing 
> is
> actually manufactured in places like Mexico.  The woolen fabric is 
> woven
> here in Pendleton, Portland, and Washougal, WA, but the clothing is put
> together elsewhere.
>
> The Blankets are made here though! :-)  The mill outlets are EVIL 
> places.
> What you see is what you get; however when that happens you can get
> beautiful yardage for $10 a yard and under!
>
> On the other hand doesn't it seem like current western fashion (shirts,
> pants, etc.) have pretty much taken over from "traditional" garments?  
> India
> is one of the few places where I see women in things like sari's, 
> salwar's
> and cameeze.  Even then the children are frequently in pants and 
> shirts that
> look like they originally came from a US catalogue.
>
> Regina
>> snip<
>
>>   It's why I try my hardest to avoid the box stores when possible.
>> Companies like LL Bean and Pendleton have found niche markets catering
>> to a customer that desires a higher quality at a higher price.  Unless
>> things have changed recently, both companies manufacture mostly in the
>> US, with the exception of a few items.
>>
>> YMMV,
>> Althea
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Reunite Pangaea!

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
people.
- Giordano Bruno

Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
- Gunn

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Regina wrote:
> On the other hand doesn't it seem like current western fashion (shirts,
> pants, etc.) have pretty much taken over from "traditional" garments? 
> India
> is one of the few places where I see women in things like sari's, salwar's
> and cameeze.  Even then the children are frequently in pants and shirts 
> that
> look like they originally came from a US catalogue.

That certainly depends on where you live.  I recently moved from Jackson 
Heights (Queens County, New York City), after almost 30 years there.  The 
place is often referred to as "Little India" and traditional clothes are 
pretty common except for the kids, who mostly dress like the other kids. 
The heavy shopping strip consists of: sari/salwar suit store, restaurant, 
jewelry store, video store, appliance store, repeat, repeat, repeat.  The 
wedding stuff is just amazing.
Sundays are the best, when the adult women break out their best saris and 
kameezes to go out to eat.  The fabric and embroidery are to die for.
             -Helen/Aidan 

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If you've seen sari fabric used in mainstream Western clothes (I know 
it's popular for historic costumes), tell me where to buy the clothes!  

What do you mean by mendhi?

What I've been seeing in Indian influences is in the "boho/gypsy/hippie" 
revival imitating the fashions of the late 1960s and the 1970s.  For 
example, the ebay seller "hipsexychic" sells beautiful crinkle cotton 
"gypsy skirts" in ombre, various colors being available. I don't know 
what she has up right now, and she's not around on weekends, but anyone 
who wants to see them could try searching her listings and/or emailing 
her on Monday.  She's by no means the only eBay seller I've seen with 
"gypsy" skirts of some sort, but I've bought some of hers and know they 
are lovely (though not yet how well they wash).   I've also seen a lot 
of embroidered kurtas/kurti/Indian tunics of varying degrees of quality, 
some made in India, some commissioned by US manufacturers (I have two 
great ones in medium-weight linen made [very well] in China that I 
bought at a local Ross store).  If anyone can tell me where to buy 
really high-quality embroidered Indian kurtas for women (without mirror 
work, which I hate), I'd be glad.

However, in US sales venues these skirts and tunics are all labeled as 
"boho," etc., as a revival of a US/British/possibly European style.  As 
Western retro, in other words. I've noticed that various Indian sellers 
are happy to leap on the bandwagon, but I'm not sure you could call this 
a recent trend that started in India.

If this trend continues, I also expect shortly (maybe next summer) to 
see the embroidered Eastern European style "peasant blouses," of the 
1970s, and possibly kebayas, a 1970s trend that some people are also 
trying to revive in Indonesia.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com





> We already have many influences making the way from India (sari 
> fabric, mendhi (Sp)).   I think it is rather unfortunate that one mode 
> of dress is coming to dominate.  There are so many beautiful styles of 
> dress out there, especially the sari.
>
> Althea
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Indian clothing was: Future garments again
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addresses please!!!!!

All I can find is 'Little India' in Islin, NJ. And most of those stores sell the VERY high prices stuff, and polyester stuff. 

I am looking for more choli's in cotton - not that nasty polyester or knit.

Katheryne

--------------------------------------
That certainly depends on where you live.  I recently moved from Jackson Heights (Queens County, New York City), after almost 30 years there.  The place is often referred to as "Little India" and traditional clothes are pretty common except for the kids, who mostly dress like the other kids. The heavy shopping strip consists of: sari/salwar suit store, restaurant, jewelry store, video store, appliance store, repeat, repeat, repeat.  The wedding stuff is just amazing.
Sundays are the best, when the adult women break out their best saris and kameezes to go out to eat.  The fabric and embroidery are to die for.
            -Helen/Aidan 
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Web addresses please, if there are any!

Fran

>
>--------------------------------------
>That certainly depends on where you live.  I recently moved from Jackson Heights (Queens County, New York City), after almost 30 years there.  The place is often referred to as "Little India" and traditional clothes are pretty common except for the kids, who mostly dress like the other kids. The heavy shopping strip consists of: sari/salwar suit store, restaurant, jewelry store, video store, appliance store, repeat, repeat, repeat.  The wedding stuff is just amazing.
>Sundays are the best, when the adult women break out their best saris and kameezes to go out to eat.  The fabric and embroidery are to die for.
>            -Helen/Aidan 
>
>  
>
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At 10:32 AM 7/16/2005, you wrote:
>Have you considered making a square-necked kirtle (ala Lady Burghley) and 
>then having it open/close down the center front (at least to the waist) 
>with either hooks and eyes or lacing? That way you could open it for 
>breast feeding and hook/lace it back together for wearing. If you made it 
>snug fitting, it would probably give you decent support too.
>
>No personal experience in the area, just an idea.
>
>
>Karen
>Seamstrix


Thanks Karen. I like the idea and will see if it will work for me. I 
originally was thinking something high necked, but with the surcoat it 
really doesn't have to be.

Kimiko


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At 07:27 AM 7/16/2005, you wrote:
>The layers go:
>brooch pin: Spotlight (25NZc each)
>filigree brass bit: Spotlight ($NZ1.75 each)
>bracelet plaque with "gem" : e Thing (like a dollar store) ($NZ3 for each
>bracelet with 6 or more useable plaques)

<<snip lots of great info>>


Wow, thanks so much for sharing how all that went together. I see from 
doing a google search that your Spotlight store may be like some of our 
craft/fabric stores in the US. I will have to look outside the box so to 
speak to find something comparable, and start thinking differently on what 
can be used in what manner.

Thanks again for sharing your work with us. I know I find it very inspiring.

Kimiko


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At 11:36 PM 7/15/2005, you wrote:
>Be aware that Steve Millingham's pieces are very, very heavy, being pewter
>castings. I have worked with his jewellery, and in fact some of his Anne
>Boleyn and Henry Vlll pieces were originally designed for a customer of
>mine. You could also try http://www.anniethepedlar.com, who made all the
>pieces for my Elizabeth figure. She works in brass, and will custom make. I
>would always use her pieces as a first choice.
>
>
>Suzi
>www.suziclarke.co.uk


Thank you Suzi for sharing that with me. I was looking at his work, because 
I am looking for the jewelry to recreate Mary Tudor Brandon's jewelry in 
her marriage portrait.
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/marytudor.jpg
His was very close in the ouches that he made for the Princess Elizabeth 
repros.

I will check out Annie the Pedlar as well. I've heard her name very favorably.

Thanks again,

Kimiko


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At 08:18 PM 7/15/2005, you wrote:
>I agree that Steve Millingham's work is really fabulous but if your budget
>doesn't stretch that far look at http://www.sapphireandsage.com/index.html
>especially the portrait reproduction section, whilst these are not exact
>replicas (as she doesn't make her own settings) they do a very good job of
>imitating the style fairly closely (I'm lusting after the reproduction of
>Princess Mary Tudor's necklaces)
>the "Queen Elizabeth I" Cluster Necklace (under portrait reproductions) is
>fairly similar to this portrait
>http://www.photo.rmn.fr/c/htm/CSearchZ.aspx?o=&Total=2&FP=3825164&E=22S39UNTBJPH&SID=22S39UNTBJPH&New=T&Pic=2&SubE=2C6NU0XQAIT8
>(or the short version http://snipurl.com/gagx) which is Spanish from the
>same era (I found it via Michaela's page) but if you're doing a large ruff a
>collar close to the neck may not show up very well. Alternately, some of the
>other examples show just a long strand of pearls (I use one short & one long
>strand of fake pearls with a pendant tied onto the shorter one)
>HTH
>Elizabeth


Thank you Elizabeth for the suggested site. I see she already has a repro 
of the jewelry I am looking for. However, this is more a secondary choice, 
as I would prefer the jewelry to look "thicker" and richer than what she 
has done, more like the paintings if possible. I also need "ouches" or 
something similar for the hats I am working on, which is even more tricky 
in some ways as they have to stay on the edge of buckram and wires, instead 
of flat on a neckline.

The eventual gown to go with the dress is mid 1540s Tudor style for 
Eleanore Brandon, with no ruff (too early for them) just lots of bare chest 
area (and a partlet depending on season). The collar and carcenet will work 
well with that.

When I do Elizabethans I do wear more pearl strands, especially as my 
character's husband brings them back from raiding the Spanish galleons when 
successful (gotta love an actual historical Pirate Earl). Eventually I will 
try to recreate that character's gown covered in pearls, when I can 
determine more about what it would look like.
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Russell,Margaret(CCumberland).jpg

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jul 16 21:11:40 2005
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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian clothing was: Future garments again
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 21:10:48 -0400
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It's unofficially "Little India", although there was a move to make it 
official several years ago, including changing the street signs to be 
changed into Taj Mahal shapes...   Jackson Heights is a historical district 
(turn of the last century original garden apartments), and the change didn't 
fly.  "Little India" occupies part of the commercial district.
Jackson Heights is in north Queens.  The stores are mostly on 74th St 
between Roosevelt Ave and 37th Ave, on 37th Ave between about 72nd and 77th 
Sts, some more under the el (Roosevelt), and a bit on the other side 
streets.  There is a stop on the subway right on the corner for several 
subway lines - the station is called Roosevelt Ave - 74th St - the Flushing 
train and the Jamaica/Forest Hills trains all stop there.  (The Flushing 
train is an elevated line, the others are below ground.)  Driving is also 
possible, but parking is scarce, the spaces are metered, the parking police 
are clairvoyant, and the traffic can be brutal.  One of the biggest stores 
is called India Sari Palace, at 37-07  74th St; most are smaller.
There is also another shopping area in Flushing near Main St and Kissena, 
and one in Jamaica.
I've been in Pittsburgh for almost three years now, but I doubt the 
neighborhood has changed much.  If you go, give it a few hours, and have 
lunch/dinner at the Jackson Diner (on 74th St, halfway down the block). 
Despite the name, it is an Indian restaurant.  It started in an old diner 
down the block and they never changed the sign.  About 7 years ago, they 
moved to the old Woolworths, where there is room.
             --Helen/Aidan 

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	<6.2.1.2.0.20050716164417.035a9440@64.87.54.245>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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Kimiko wrote:
>  I also need "ouches" or > something similar for the hats I am working on

OK, I'll bite- what are "ouches"?
          -Helen/Aidan

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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At 06:15 PM 7/16/2005, you wrote:
>Kimiko wrote:
>>  I also need "ouches" or > something similar for the hats I am working on
>
>OK, I'll bite- what are "ouches"?
>          -Helen/Aidan


That's what the creator (Steve Millingham) of the jewelry replicas calls 
"dress jewels (ouches) ". I am not sure why he calls them that, as in I 
haven't seen a source for the name other than at his site.
http://www.tudorjewels.com/princess%20elizabeth.htm
First jewelry pic you come across. It's what I want for the jewelry I am 
looking to get.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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Thanks, I recognize the item (way late for me), but I never heard the term 
before.  Maybe it refers to the noise your wallet makes after you've 
acquired enough for the outfit?
          -Helen/Aidan 

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	trim question
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>
> > > http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Images/colourpics/8486.jpg ? And do
> >
> > OOh!  I've never seen that painting before!  Do you have more information
> > about it?
>
> http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/main.htm

Yet another painting question.  While I was cruising this web site, I found
another painting that interests me -- it's on the
http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/inspired.htm
page -- 5th painting from the left -- the URL for the painting is
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10780_28a.jpg

I"ve been searching bildindex.de for 2 days trying to get some information on
this painting -- and I can't figure out how to make it give it to me!  I
suspect that it's a self-portrait of Lavinia Fontana, but I'm not certain --
she is holding a paint palette and brushes -- and the eyes aren't right for it
to be Sofonisba -- although it could be one of her sisters.

Help!  Pretty please?  :-)

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 20:20:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It's not just his term:
http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?book=Dictionary&va=ouch
 
Anybody else finished the new Harry Potter yet?  Yowser!
 
KP


Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
At 06:15 PM 7/16/2005, you wrote:
>Kimiko wrote:
>> I also need "ouches" or > something similar for the hats I am working on
>
>OK, I'll bite- what are "ouches"?
> -Helen/Aidan


That's what the creator (Steve Millingham) of the jewelry replicas calls 
"dress jewels (ouches) ". I am not sure why he calls them that, as in I 
haven't seen a source for the name other than at his site.
http://www.tudorjewels.com/princess%20elizabeth.htm
First jewelry pic you come across. It's what I want for the jewelry I am 
looking to get.

Kimiko


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On Saturday 16 July 2005 11:20 pm, Kathryn Parke wrote:
[snip]
> Anybody else finished the new Harry Potter yet?  Yowser!

Yes, I have and yes, Yowser! indeed.  And if we say more we'll likely be 
lynched--and not just because it's grossly off-topic.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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>Kimiko wrote:
>>  I also need "ouches" or > something similar for the hats I am working on
>
>OK, I'll bite- what are "ouches"?
>          -Helen/Aidan


That's what the creator (Steve Millingham) of the jewelry replicas calls 
"dress jewels (ouches) ". I am not sure why he calls them that, as in I 
haven't seen a source for the name other than at his site.
http://www.tudorjewels.com/princess%20elizabeth.htm
First jewelry pic you come across. It's what I want for the jewelry I am 
looking to get.

Steve Millingham got the word from my customer who got it from me, who got
it from Annie the Pedlar who did the research for my Elizabeth figure. I
imagine she has sources for it, as she did a great deal of research before
making the jewellery for me.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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At 08:35 PM 7/16/2005, you wrote:
>Steve Millingham got the word from my customer who got it from me, who got
>it from Annie the Pedlar who did the research for my Elizabeth figure. I
>imagine she has sources for it, as she did a great deal of research before
>making the jewellery for me.
>
>Suzi


I would love to know the source. It's an amusing name for them.

Kimiko


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Yup.  In one straight shot, this morning....although I did get a couple 
of chapters into it last night, after I walked home from the bookstore. 
  (What can I say? I'm Auld.  I fell asleep! ;o)
Wow, what a book.  Hope we don't have to wait two years for the next one.
OCC: I'm thinking of an outfit to wear to the final release, whenever 
that happens.  Think I'll do a take on some sort of historical witch's 
robes--Elizabethan gone funky, maybe, so I could be one of the 
"portraits" at Hogwarts....
--sue

Kathryn Parke wrote:

> It's not just his term:
> http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?book=Dictionary&va=ouch
>  
> Anybody else finished the new Harry Potter yet?  Yowser!
>  
> KP
> 
> 
> Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
> At 06:15 PM 7/16/2005, you wrote:
> 
>>Kimiko wrote:
>>
>>>I also need "ouches" or > something similar for the hats I am working on
>>
>>OK, I'll bite- what are "ouches"?
>>-Helen/Aidan
> 
> 
> 
> That's what the creator (Steve Millingham) of the jewelry replicas calls 
> "dress jewels (ouches) ". I am not sure why he calls them that, as in I 
> haven't seen a source for the name other than at his site.
> http://www.tudorjewels.com/princess%20elizabeth.htm
> First jewelry pic you come across. It's what I want for the jewelry I am 
> looking to get.
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathryn Parke" <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question


>  
> Anybody else finished the new Harry Potter yet?  Yowser!
>  
> KP

Me!! Finished it by 12:30 yesterday afternoon.

Yowser is right!!

Dianne



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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20050716221519.6sl4zylrzqgo0880@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: Spanish influenced Italian (was Re: [h-cost] elizabethan
	dresstrim question
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> Yet another painting question.  While I was cruising this web site, I
found
> another painting that interests me -- it's on the
> http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/inspired.htm
> page -- 5th painting from the left -- the URL for the painting is
> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10780_28a.jpg
>
> I"ve been searching bildindex.de for 2 days trying to get some information
on
> this painting -- and I can't figure out how to make it give it to me!  I
> suspect that it's a self-portrait of Lavinia Fontana, but I'm not
certain --
> she is holding a paint palette and brushes -- and the eyes aren't right
for it
> to be Sofonisba -- although it could be one of her sisters.

That's what it says;) (I put image information in the alt tags of the
thumbnails, so moving the cursor too quickly will not show it up;) )

Lavinia Fontana, self portrait, 1579 But I'll look on bildindex to see if it
cites the place it is housed.

Looking for it under Kunstler doesn't bring it up, I think I found it
originally via artcyclopedia.com .... hmm.. so I didn't.... I'll have to see
if a search will find it..

OK, the image seems to be hard to find, but I did find this:
Florenz, öffentliche Sammlung, Galleria Palatina, Palazzo Pitti,
Inventar-Nr. del 1890 n.1841

SO it seems the image is lurking in some area, or the links to the image
have been taken down due to copyright..
Ooh, I just found a new image;) Sorry..


I can't find it sorry. I'm sure I didn't do anything terribly complicated to
find it either...

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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I'm at Chapter 9. Yowser is right!

Obligatory costume content: Did Elizabethans use hatpins?

Arlys

On Sat, 16 Jul 2005 20:20:42 -0700 (PDT) Kathryn Parke
<kjp1685@yahoo.com> writes:
> It's not just his term:
> http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?book=Dictionary&va=ouch
>  
> Anybody else finished the new Harry Potter yet?  Yowser!
>  
> KP

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KP wrote:
> It's not just his term:
> http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?book=Dictionary&va=ouch
> 

Very cool. A new, accurate, but obsolete, word.
Thanks, 
         -Helen/Aidan
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I'v been at my sister in law's place and we bought the book on sat at sometime in around 12pm, but i have only got about an chapter read as the little ones (7 and 4 year old) keep wanting me to read it to them when i pick up the book.  it is torture! :)

jordana


----- Original Message -----
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Date: Sunday, July 17, 2005 0:51 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question

> Yup.  In one straight shot, this morning....although I did get a 
> couple 
> of chapters into it last night, after I walked home from the 
> bookstore. 
>  (What can I say? I'm Auld.  I fell asleep! ;o)
> Wow, what a book.  Hope we don't have to wait two years for the 
> next one.
> OCC: I'm thinking of an outfit to wear to the final release, 
> whenever 
> that happens.  Think I'll do a take on some sort of historical 
> witch's 
> robes--Elizabethan gone funky, maybe, so I could be one of the 
> "portraits" at Hogwarts....
> --sue
> 
> Kathryn Parke wrote:
> 
> > It's not just his term:
> > http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?book=Dictionary&va=ouch
> >  
> > Anybody else finished the new Harry Potter yet?  Yowser!
> >  
> > KP
> > 
> > 
> > Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
> > At 06:15 PM 7/16/2005, you wrote:
> > 
> >>Kimiko wrote:
> >>
> >>>I also need "ouches" or > something similar for the hats I am 
> working on
> >>
> >>OK, I'll bite- what are "ouches"?
> >>-Helen/Aidan
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > That's what the creator (Steve Millingham) of the jewelry 
> replicas calls 
> > "dress jewels (ouches) ". I am not sure why he calls them that, 
> as in I 
> > haven't seen a source for the name other than at his site.
> > http://www.tudorjewels.com/princess%20elizabeth.htm
> > First jewelry pic you come across. It's what I want for the 
> jewelry I am 
> > looking to get.
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: RE:HP was [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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Indeed- My SO said not to read him the good bits- he hasn't got thru
"Goblet" or "OOPhoenix" yet.
Also name change to thread!
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of jaurbik@optonline.net
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 9:43 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question

I'v been at my sister in law's place and we bought the book on sat at
sometime in around 12pm, but i have only got about an chapter read as the
little ones (7 and 4 year old) keep wanting me to read it to them when i
pick up the book.  it is torture! :)

jordana


----- Original Message -----
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Date: Sunday, July 17, 2005 0:51 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question

> Yup.  In one straight shot, this morning....although I did get a 
> couple 
> of chapters into it last night, after I walked home from the 
> bookstore. 
>  (What can I say? I'm Auld.  I fell asleep! ;o)
> Wow, what a book.  Hope we don't have to wait two years for the 
> next one.
> OCC: I'm thinking of an outfit to wear to the final release, 
> whenever 
> that happens.  Think I'll do a take on some sort of historical 
> witch's 
> robes--Elizabethan gone funky, maybe, so I could be one of the 
> "portraits" at Hogwarts....
> --sue
> 
> Kathryn Parke wrote:
> 
> > It's not just his term:
> > http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?book=Dictionary&va=ouch
> >  
> > Anybody else finished the new Harry Potter yet?  Yowser!
> >  
> > KP
> > 
> > 
> > Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
> > At 06:15 PM 7/16/2005, you wrote:
> > 
> >>Kimiko wrote:
> >>
> >>>I also need "ouches" or > something similar for the hats I am 
> working on
> >>
> >>OK, I'll bite- what are "ouches"?
> >>-Helen/Aidan
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > That's what the creator (Steve Millingham) of the jewelry 
> replicas calls 
> > "dress jewels (ouches) ". I am not sure why he calls them that, 
> as in I 
> > haven't seen a source for the name other than at his site.
> > http://www.tudorjewels.com/princess%20elizabeth.htm
> > First jewelry pic you come across. It's what I want for the 
> jewelry I am 
> > looking to get.
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Just you wait, 'enry 'iggins, just you wait!
It get more "yowser" the farther into the book you go, which would go a 
long way to explaining why I read it straight through.
--sue (Ravenclaw '78)

Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> I'm at Chapter 9. Yowser is right!
> 
> Obligatory costume content: Did Elizabethans use hatpins?
> 
> Arlys
> 
> On Sat, 16 Jul 2005 20:20:42 -0700 (PDT) Kathryn Parke
> <kjp1685@yahoo.com> writes:
> 
>>It's not just his term:
>>http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?book=Dictionary&va=ouch
>> 
>>Anybody else finished the new Harry Potter yet?  Yowser!
>> 
>>KP


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Spanish influenced Italian (was Re: [h-cost] elizabethan
	dresstrim question
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Status: RO

Quoting michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>:

>> Yet another painting question.  While I was cruising this web site, I
> found
>> another painting that interests me -- it's on the
>> http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/inspired.htm
>> page -- 5th painting from the left -- the URL for the painting is
>> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10780_28a.jpg
>>
>> I"ve been searching bildindex.de for 2 days trying to get some information
> on
>> this painting -- and I can't figure out how to make it give it to me!  I
>> suspect that it's a self-portrait of Lavinia Fontana, but I'm not
> certain --
>> she is holding a paint palette and brushes -- and the eyes aren't right
> for it
>> to be Sofonisba -- although it could be one of her sisters.
>
> That's what it says;) (I put image information in the alt tags of the
> thumbnails, so moving the cursor too quickly will not show it up;) )

Ah -- that's an IE only trick, I believe.  Mozilla and Netscape (to my
knowledge) only display the alt= tag before the image loads.  There are
javascript commands that you can make to a similar thing -- but that displays
in the message bar at the bottom of the screen.

>
> Lavinia Fontana, self portrait, 1579 But I'll look on bildindex to see if it
> cites the place it is housed.
>
> Looking for it under Kunstler doesn't bring it up, I think I found it
> originally via artcyclopedia.com .... hmm.. so I didn't.... I'll have to see
> if a search will find it..
>
> OK, the image seems to be hard to find, but I did find this:
> Florenz, öffentliche Sammlung, Galleria Palatina, Palazzo Pitti,
> Inventar-Nr. del 1890 n.1841
>
> SO it seems the image is lurking in some area, or the links to the image
> have been taken down due to copyright..
> Ooh, I just found a new image;) Sorry..
>
>
> I can't find it sorry. I'm sure I didn't do anything terribly complicated to
> find it either...
>

Oh, don't worry about it that much -- you told me what I wanted to know.
Sometimes, you can google for the file name and find the original page -- but
that frequently doesn't work of the pages are dynamically generated.  
If you've
got the text in an alt tag, I can just look at the source and pull out the
information.

Thanks!
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/



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Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> Quoting michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>:
>>> Yet another painting question.  While I was cruising this web 
>>> site, I found another painting that interests me -- it's on the 
>>> http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/inspired.htm page -- 5th 
>>> painting from the left I suspect that it's a self-portrait of 
>>> Lavinia Fontana, but I'm not certain
>> 
>> That's what it says;) (I put image information in the alt tags of 
>> the thumbnails, so moving the cursor too quickly will not show it 
>> up;) )
> 
> Ah -- that's an IE only trick, I believe.  Mozilla and Netscape (to 
> my knowledge) only display the alt= tag before the image loads.

OK, I chopped the dickens out of the email, so I hope the attributions
are still ok.
Anyway!
In Firefox you can right click on a image, go to properties, and see the
alternate image info that way. Might be the same in Mozilla and
Netscape, dunno.

liz young

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Spanish influenced Italian (was Re: [h-cost] elizabethan
	dresstrim question
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Quoting Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>:

Michaela said ....
>>> That's what it says;) (I put image information in the alt tags of 
>>> the thumbnails, so moving the cursor too quickly will not show it 
>>> up;) )
>>

and I replies
>> Ah -- that's an IE only trick, I believe.  Mozilla and Netscape (to 
>> my knowledge) only display the alt= tag before the image loads.
>
> OK, I chopped the dickens out of the email, so I hope the attributions
> are still ok.
> Anyway!
> In Firefox you can right click on a image, go to properties, and see the
> alternate image info that way. Might be the same in Mozilla and
> Netscape, dunno.

OOOh!  IT works!  Happy dance!  :-)

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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> >> another painting that interests me -- it's on the
> >> http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/inspired.htm
> >> page -- 5th painting from the left -- the URL for the painting is
> >> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10780_28a.jpg
> >>

> Ah -- that's an IE only trick, I believe.  Mozilla and Netscape (to my
> knowledge) only display the alt= tag before the image loads.  There are
> javascript commands that you can make to a similar thing -- but that
displays
> in the message bar at the bottom of the screen.

Ahhh good to know:) Thanks, I've been wanting to chop about my site a bit,
so I'll have to put those blasted tables back in.... poo. Or simply let
people know at the top of each page how to find the information... I don't
have right click disabled as I know it ammoys the heck out of me;)

> > Lavinia Fontana, self portrait, 1579 But I'll look on bildindex to see
if it
> > cites the place it is housed.
>
> Oh, don't worry about it that much -- you told me what I wanted to know.
> Sometimes, you can google for the file name and find the original page -- 
but
> that frequently doesn't work of the pages are dynamically generated.
> If you've
> got the text in an alt tag, I can just look at the source and pull out the
> information.

I wonder why Mozilla doesn't support it.. It's such a handy little
function... Ah well, never mind. I had to get rid of a nifty sliding index
page as well because of lack of support a few years back;)

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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A friend of ours is starting a rose-pink pseudo-historical - she's doing 
the "fat lady" - the entry portrait for Griffindor's quarters.  Should be fun!

P & S

At 01:00 PM 7/17/2005, you wrote:

>From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
>
>OCC: I'm thinking of an outfit to wear to the final release, whenever
>that happens.  Think I'll do a take on some sort of historical witch's
>robes--Elizabethan gone funky, maybe, so I could be one of the
>"portraits" at Hogwarts....
>--sue

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
> A friend of ours is starting a rose-pink pseudo-historical - she's doing 
> the "fat lady" - the entry portrait for Griffindor's quarters.  Should 
> be fun!

	And I think it would be hysterical if she had a (supply) of plastic 
champagne glasses to offer to break - by stomping on them if she can't 
shatter them with her voice!

	-Judy
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Subject: [h-cost] contacting Diana Habra
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Hi, I'm trying to contact Diana as I owe her for some patterns and have 
lost her contact details. Thanks Suzi for reminding me that she's on 
this list.
Cheers, Aylwen Garden, Australia
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 463
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On 7/16/05, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> > There is a company in England that makes pewter replicas of Tudor jewelry (and other jewelry things, spoons, collars, etc.), and he notes that he makes custom pieces as well.
> > http://www.tudorjewels.com/ (for the historical images)
> > http://www.pewterreplicas.com/ (to order the same)

> 
> Be aware that Steve Millingham's pieces are very, very heavy, being pewter  castings. I have worked with his jewellery, and in fact some of his Anne Boleyn and Henry Vlll pieces were originally designed for a customer of mine. >

I'm going to delurk for a moments to comment.  I can attest to the
quality of Steve's work.  I had the privliege of meeting him (and his
wife) at his shop (in a 13th century church) in Ludlow, England a
couple of years ago.  My husband and I found them to be delightful,
gracious people, spending a couple of hours with them.  I think
Steve's work is  high quality and worth what he charges for it.  When
we finally left his shop, I'll admit that I was quite a bit lighter in
the pocketbook.  I've worn one of his pieces, a reproduction reliquary
(sp?) that was commissioned by V&A for their Goth exhibit,  several
times and everytime I have I've gotten wonderful comments.

BTW, he does a lot of commission works for the many of the British
museums and historically socitities.

Back to lurking.

Baroness Isabeau Quiquandon
(Terri Hirling)
Barony of Stargate 
Houston, Texas
Kingdom of Ansteorra

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 wrote:
> > There is a company in England that makes pewter replicas of Tudor
jewelry (and other jewelry things, spoons, collars, etc.), and he notes
that he makes custom pieces as well.
> > http://www.tudorjewels.com/ (for the historical images)
> > http://www.pewterreplicas.com/ (to order the same)

> 
> Be aware that Steve Millingham's pieces are very, very heavy, being
pewter  castings. I have worked with his jewellery, and in fact some of his
Anne Boleyn and Henry Vlll pieces were originally designed for a customer
of mine. >

I'm going to delurk for a moments to comment.  I can attest to the
quality of Steve's work.  I had the privliege of meeting him (and his
wife) at his shop (in a 13th century church) in Ludlow, England a
couple of years ago.  My husband and I found them to be delightful,
gracious people, spending a couple of hours with them.  I think
Steve's work is  high quality and worth what he charges for it.  When
we finally left his shop, I'll admit that I was quite a bit lighter in
the pocketbook.  I've worn one of his pieces, a reproduction reliquary
(sp?) that was commissioned by V&A for their Goth exhibit,  several
times and everytime I have I've gotten wonderful comments.



I have no quibble with the quality of Steve Millingham's work, but all the
Henry Vlll and Jane Seymour jewellery was originally designed and made for
my costumes. The large sleeve ouches are very heavy, when you sew 40 or
more on to fine sleeve fabric, and the small ouches and neck trimmings have
to be sewn to firm fabric in order not to sag. Given the option, I would
choose lighter jewels, and these do tend to weigh down some items of
costume. The later pendants, and the necklaces  are quite exquisite, but I
have not had the opportunity to use them.

Suzi

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That's interesting. Steve's work is really too early for the period I do, but as I spend a week in the Ludlow area every August, a few years ago I thought I would look for his workshop out of curiosity. I located it in a tiny, remote village, but a notice outside said it was not open to the public. (I have since seen his stall at a reenactors' market.)
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> thirling@gmail.com 18/07/2005 15:18 >>> wrote:


I'm going to delurk for a moments to comment.  I can attest to the
quality of Steve's work.  I had the privliege of meeting him (and his wife) at his shop (in a 13th century church) in Ludlow, England a couple of years ago. 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 449
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Stick a pin across where you want to stop.  I always do that to avoid 
ripping the stitching when opening up machined buttonholes.

Jean


Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote
>but I was alway taught at college not to use seam rippers for slashes and
>buttinholes, as it takes extreme care to avoid going further than intended.
>(that said, I never had that problem.)
>
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>h-costume mailing list
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] Real 100% silk velvet found!
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Hi everyone,

I have finally managed to find 100% silk velvet, back and pile. Since I work 
in a lab, I usually put my fabric samples under the microscope to make sure 
they are what they pretend to be. So far, no "silk velvet" has passed any 
test until last week. It is available in white only, from a supplier in 
Germany for €57 per meter (that's about $69) and it's 140 cm wide. The 
website is http://www.gewand-und-tand.de/samt.php. It's quite fine (190g/m), 
which makes it lighter, but not finer than the usual "silk chiffon velvet" 
with the rayon pile, but the feel is infinitely better than any rayon pile 
velvet could ever be. The silk pile reflects the light a bit randomly, not 
like a rayon pile, which *seems* to be denser, due to the rayon fibres being 
thicker in diameter than silk. The lady in Germany is very helpful, she'll 
send out samples for €0.50 if you send her a prepaid and addressed envelope.

Cheers,

Caithlinn


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: everything - newbie delurking
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Hello All,
 
I joined a few weeks ago and have been lurking about and enjoying reading the different topics, finally ready to speak up.
 
Have some questions and comments, but will give a short intro first. I have always been interested in historical and vintage costume. Love the Medieval period, especially the early to mid, (just starting to get involved with the SCA), but also have interest in Renaissance, "Highland", latter 1800's/US Civil War era and Victorian, early 20th century to 1940's, and just about anything else.
 
Also planning a Medieval/Celtic themed wedding for next year. The groom doesn't care about period accuracy, just wants to wear his kilt (I know, but...). I am interested in reasonable accuracy for the other clothing. If I am going to make the expense, I want to have things that can be later used for SCA events.
 
Questions:
 
Does anyone know where I can find a pattern for a Ghillie or "Jacobite" shirt or something of the sort (the more period appropriate the better), and a pattern for what is referred to as a 'Frontier' Gilet/doublet in the highland catalogs? 
 
Two books I have been resourcing from (in addition to the multitude of web pages out there!) are "Medieval Costume in England and France: the 13th, 14th, and 15th Centuries" by Mary Houston, and "Medieval Costume and How to Recreate It" by Dorothy Hartley. Any opinions on these two books? And does anyone know of other resources that show more of the French take on fashions of the period?
 
Is there anyone on the list from the Seattle area (or Vancouver, BC)? I'm hoping to find some 'local' resources for appropriate fabrics as most everything here (Bellingham) is either devoted to quilting, or are multipurpose craft stores that carry limited garment fabrics (some of the home decorating fabrics are gorgeous though).
 
Comments:
T-shirts as undershirts - Weren't t-shirts under a man's shirt the "proper" dress until some Hollywood actor went without in a movie in the 50's? James Dean or Brando I think.
 
Fashion future - I think the traditional sari outfit is beautiful. And it looks quite comfortable. There is some RTW that seem to have adapted this to 'modern' clothing.
 
As for HPHBP - sshhhhh - the only time I get to read is just at bed time and I keep falling asleep! Only to chapter two so far. :-)
 
Cheers,
Annette
 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 18 18:53:14 2005
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Good point - never thought of that (duh!).  Most of the time use v. sharp 
snips, cos a seam ripper doesn't always go through all the layers (greatcoats, 
jacks, etc)

Debbie.

In a message dated 7/18/05 9:53:56 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Stick a pin across where you want to stop.  I always do that to avoid 
> ripping the stitching when opening up machined buttonholes.
> 
> Jean
> 
> 

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I have found that the buttonhole "chisel" is wonderful.  Nice, 
straight cut, goes through however many layers you have.
Joan

At 03:51 PM 7/18/2005, you wrote:
>Good point - never thought of that (duh!).  Most of the time use v. sharp
>snips, cos a seam ripper doesn't always go through all the layers 
>(greatcoats,
>jacks, etc)
>
>Debbie.
>
>In a message dated 7/18/05 9:53:56 PM GMT Daylight Time,
>h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
> > Stick a pin across where you want to stop.  I always do that to avoid
> > ripping the stitching when opening up machined buttonholes.
> >
> > Jean

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I like to use an exacto-knife...not the big box cutter ones but the kind  
that are like a scalpel. They make great seam rippers too. I never use a seam  
ripper.
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JoAnne's has a new cotton velveteen that they call corduroy velvet and it is on sale (probably till Saturday) for 2.99 a yard.  It is with the rest of the corduroys.  It  It is probably a little thinner than their regular cotton velvet but on a warm day like today, that seems like a desirable property.  The clerk in my store told me it wasn't on sale like the rest of the corduroys, but I had her scan it and the computer came up 2.99.  

Janet
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Online its advertised at 8.99/yd - boy I wish someone could get some of 
the camel for me at the 2.99 price!
Cheers, Aylwen

On Tuesday, July 19, 2005, at 01:03 PM, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:

> JoAnne's has a new cotton velveteen that they call corduroy velvet and 
> it is on sale (probably till Saturday) for 2.99 a yard.  It is with 
> the rest of the corduroys.  It  It is probably a little thinner than 
> their regular cotton velvet but on a warm day like today, that seems 
> like a desirable property.  The clerk in my store told me it wasn't on 
> sale like the rest of the corduroys, but I had her scan it and the 
> computer came up 2.99.
>
> Janet
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] Bustle gown in progress
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Hi,

I was working on my bustle gown and I thougt it would be nice to post 
some pictures.
I don't have nice pictures yet of the chemise.
I have some pictures of the silk corset but I am wearing it with a 
fantasy costume.
Unfortionally you can't really see the white embroidery I made on it.
Look at the pictures of the black and white fairy.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Fantasy/Fairy/Fairy.html

I made the bustle, petticoat and skirt.
And today I will start on the bodice.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html
For the petticoat, skirt and bodice I used Truly Victorian patterns.
The bustle I made from a drawing in Corsets and Crinolines.

It is a bit sweet those purples...

Greetings,
       Deredere


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bustle gown in progress
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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>
> I made the bustle, petticoat and skirt.
> And today I will start on the bodice.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html
> For the petticoat, skirt and bodice I used Truly Victorian patterns.
> The bustle I made from a drawing in Corsets and Crinolines.
>
> It is a bit sweet those purples...

What a fun outfit!  And it looks great :~>  What are you making it for?

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Diana Habra wrote:

>What a fun outfit!  And it looks great :~>  What are you making it for?
>
>Diana
>
>www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>"Everything for the Costumer"
>  
>
It is for an Archery competition in an openair museum in the Netherlands.
I promised to come in costume since this is the 10th time they organise 
the competition.
And they like people to come in style of the museum.
"The museum offers an image of daily life in the Netherlands between 
1700 an 1970"
http://www.openluchtmuseum.nl/Algemeen/engels-01.html
The Competition is for Archers who shoot with wooden bows and wooden arrows.
In the 19th century archery became very popular for women.
And my bow is like the bows that were used in the 19th century.
So I found it a good excuse to make this dress. :-)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Future garments again
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Last winter, on a day that wasn't good for much else, I went through the LL Bean Christmas catalog and circled all the products NOT marked "imported." Less than ten percent of the total. VERY disillusioning.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
gypsy scholar and amateur costumer

----------------------
>>   It's why I try my hardest to avoid the box stores when possible.
>> Companies like LL Bean and Pendleton have found niche markets catering
>> to a customer that desires a higher quality at a higher price.  Unless
>> things have changed recently, both companies manufacture mostly in the
>> US, with the exception of a few items.
>>
>> YMMV,
>> Althea
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Reunite Pangaea!

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
people.
- Giordano Bruno

Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
- Gunn

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To: aquaterratextiles@yahoogroups.com (Aquaterra Textiles),
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Really funny....Enjoy!!!

--
Slan go foill
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri

Emer's Needle Wares


Subject: Secret report stolen from the costumer's guild
Date:    Tue, 19 Jul 2005 14:33:41 +0000



Scientific Study Reveals Hypnotizing Effect
           A recent study has indicated that fabric gives off certain
Pheromones, that actually hypnotize women and cause them to purchase ungodly
amounts.
          When stored in large quantities in enclosed spaces, the Pheromones
(in the fabric) cause memory loss and induce the nesting syndrome (similar
to the one squirrels have before the onset of winter, i.e. storing food),
therefore perpetuating their species, and not having a population loss due
to their kind being cut up into pieces and mixed with others. Sound tests
have also revealed that these fabrics emit a very high-pitched sound, heard
only by a select few of breed of women known as 'Costumers'.

    When played backwards on an LP, the sounds are heard as chants 'buy me,
cut me, sew me!" In order to overcome the so-called 'feeding frenzy effect'
that these fabrics cause, one must wear a face mask when entering a storage
facility and use ear plugs to avoid being pulled into their grip. (One must
laugh, however, at the sight of customers in a fabric store, with WW2 army
gas masks and headphones!).

    Studies have also indicated that aliens have inhabited the earth, 
helping
to spread the effect that these fabrics have on the human population. They
are called FABRIC STORE CLERKS. It's also been my experience that these same
Pheromones cause a pathological need to secret these fabric purchases away
when taken home (or at least blend them into the existing stash), and when
asked by a significant other if the fabric is new, the reply is "I've had it
for a while".

(Originally published in August 1997 in the Western North Carolina Quilters
Guild Newsletter)




Youth is when we are always hunting greener pastures, and middle age is when
we can barely mow the one we've got. [Uh oh; nowadays I have someone else
mow it for me!]


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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Indian clothing was: Future garments again
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 15:27:44 -0400
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When I walked up & down Oak Tree Rd (Edison/Islin, NJ) there were lots
of stores --Granted this was two summers ago, but I got silks and
cottons --bargain with the sales staff --"Is this the best you can do?"
are great words that I learned from my hubby. There was also a lot of
polyester mixed in.  I'm sure it's not as large an area as Jackson
Heights, but it's a lot closer for me.

Kate

addresses please!!!!!

All I can find is 'Little India' in Islin, NJ. And most of those stores
sell the VERY high prices stuff, and polyester stuff. 

I am looking for more choli's in cotton - not that nasty polyester or
knit.

Katheryne

--------------------------------------
That certainly depends on where you live.  I recently moved from Jackson
Heights (Queens County, New York City), after almost 30 years there.
The place is often referred to as "Little India" and traditional clothes
are pretty common except for the kids, who mostly dress like the other
kids. The heavy shopping strip consists of: sari/salwar suit store,
restaurant, jewelry store, video store, appliance store, repeat, repeat,
repeat.  The wedding stuff is just amazing.
Sundays are the best, when the adult women break out their best saris
and kameezes to go out to eat.  The fabric and embroidery are to die
for.
            -Helen/Aidan 
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Amen Brother!  It seems a shame that  Mr Bush's work to help keep drugs 
out of the hands of regular citizens has ended with folks like this 
obviously smoking crack...They apparently didn't even have their 
terminology right, not to mention their budget...Sorry to hear that you 
lost a gig, but happy you didn't get screwed. Mike T. who avoided Live 8 
by the skin of his teeth and didn't lose brain cells to a 36 hour day...

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>STOP the surgers! The gig's off.
> 
>They want us to do it for FREE. That's right, not at a reduced rate  
>even....or for a nice dinner somewhere even...but Free.
> 
>NOT
> 
>I wonder if the actors, camera crew, lighting grips, and location people  are 
>doing it for FREE. What do you think?
> 
>What is wrong with these people? How experienced can they be in film if  they 
>expect costumes for free? Do they think this is the Middle School  play? They 
>expressed a need for "accuracy and attention to detail." How about  the 
>detail that Mr. Lincoln ended slavery. Get your grandmother to sew something  up 
>for you Bud....I'm outta here!
>
>  
>
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Hi, All. I can second Suzi's enthusiastic support of Spike (Steve) and 
his wife. He was kind enough to allow a random American reenactor to 
share his home (church) some years ago, and I am in awe of his skill in 
reproducing interesting historical items. I am also an avid customer of 
his. I was able to phone him when I visited, so perhaps he was away at 
an event that weekend, Kate? BTW, his spoons do enter into our period, 
and I think he still does his repro Charles I coin sets... Cheers, Mike T.

Kate M Bunting wrote:

>That's interesting. Steve's work is really too early for the period I do, but as I spend a week in the Ludlow area every August, a few years ago I thought I would look for his workshop out of curiosity. I located it in a tiny, remote village, but a notice outside said it was not open to the public. (I have since seen his stall at a reenactors' market.)
> 
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
>  
>
>  
>
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tunic terminology
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 20:52:32 -0400
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> I've heard people rant about not calling tunics-with-gores/godets 
> "T-Tunics" but I'm not sure why.  The top is shaped like a T, even if the 
> skirt area spreads out.  Could someone enlighten me?

To me "T" is about the shape, or absence of a shape, of the sleeve, combined 
with the fact that the main piece is a rectangle (to which I add side gores 
because I'm a woman and it has to be long and I want to be able to walk). I 
doubt anyone can really give a definition of what a T-tunic is.... Some 
things we call T-shirts aren't really T-shirts anymore, with the way the 
sleeves are cut on most women's tees these days... 
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Subject: OT: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
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> Anybody else finished the new Harry Potter yet?  Yowser!
>

Yeah, I agree with you there! Phew!

(Incidentally, HP is the reason I'm so late in answering many threads... 
every time one comes out, the world stops turning...) 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 19 21:37:48 2005
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From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Good costume movie recommendation
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Hello everyone!

I just finished watching a wonderfully accurate movie called "The Last
King" made by the BBC in 2003.  It is about the life of Charles II of
England and stars Rufus Sewell.

What a good movie!  It is almost completely historically accurate (based
on what I read in my reference books) AND had good costuming.  How often
do we get those two things in the same movie?

It is a period that I know little about (and I still don't understand the
meaning of the title) but it is very interesting and the costumes are
lovely.  I recommend it!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good costume movie recommendation
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"Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com> writes:
> 
> I just finished watching a wonderfully accurate movie called "The Last
> King" made by the BBC in 2003.
> 
> What a good movie!  It is almost completely historically accurate (based
> on what I read in my reference books) AND had good costuming.

I dunno--they simplified the Oates plot quite a bit.  And I think that
the 'young Charles' period clothing looked way too faux-Elizabethan to
be right for the period, although I could be wrong.

> It is a period that I know little about (and I still don't understand
> the meaning of the title) but it is very interesting and the costumes
> are lovely.

It's called 'The Last King' because Charles II was the last English king
to rule without a parliament.  One would wish that Elizabeth II had the
guts to do the same; it would have saved a lot of bother.

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
My Hope is the Father, my Refuge is the Son, my Shelter is the Holy Spirit.  
O Holy Trinity, our God, glory to Thee!

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Subject: [h-cost] Harry Potter was: elizabethan dress trim question
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Got my book Saturday afternoon (darn postman is running late.  Couldn't
start til 9pm.  5:20am Sunday morning I finished it and tried to sleep.
Good thing it came out on a Saturday!  Next time I'll stand in line and get
my copy early!  I'm half way through the re-read to pick up a few of the
many things I missed the first time.  Then I'll get the CD's with Jim Dale
(worth it, believe me!) so I can go to sleep listening to it with a proper
British accent.

Regina

P.S.  Anyone else wondering if Dumbledor was pleading with Snape not to kill
him or if he was pleading with Snape to kill him and maintain his cover?

Was it really Sirius Blacks brother Regulas who stole the locket?  Is it the
locket they found in the house?

>
> > Anybody else finished the new Harry Potter yet?  Yowser!
> >
>
> Yeah, I agree with you there! Phew!
>

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Hey! Shhhhhh!

I won't be picking the book up for quite a while, tell me nothing.

Sheridan


> Regina
>
> P.S.  Anyone else wondering if Dumbledor was pleading with Snape not to
kill
> him or if he was pleading with Snape to kill him and maintain his cover?
>
> Was it really Sirius Blacks brother Regulas who stole the locket?  Is it
the
> locket they found in the house?


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At 03:00 PM 7/18/2005, you wrote:
>Does anyone know where I can find a pattern for a Ghillie or "Jacobite" 
>shirt or something of the sort (the more period appropriate the better), 
>and a pattern for what is referred to as a 'Frontier' Gilet/doublet in the 
>highland catalogs?


Hello Annette,

I am not sure about the rest of your questions, especially the costume 
books, as I have not read those nor is French my thing. However, on 
Scottish attire, that I know some things about, as I did 16th century 
re-enactment for a decade or so.

Ghillies (or gillies), when not talking about a male attendant on a Chief, 
is generally talking about shoes. However, you asked about a "Jacobite" 
shirt as well, so I am not positive what exactly you are asking for. Were 
you asking about a shirt style?

You also mention that you are interested in using the wedding outfits for 
SCA purposes afterwards. However, anything Jacobite related Scotswear is 
much later than 16th century, which is my understanding the cutoff points 
for SCA purposes (I am not in the SCA, but that was my understanding. 
Please correct me if I am incorrect.) I don' recall exactly the dates for 
the Jacobite rebellions, but I know there was a ban soon afterwards that is 
recorded in 1747 in my book. Do you have a specific time frame you are 
going for?

As to a "'Frontier' Gilet/doublet in the highland catalogs", I couldn't 
even begin to guess what style exactly that would mean. Do you have an 
online link to something in mind? A picture would definitely help here.

If you are interested in period history on Scottish attire, especially from 
the highlands, check your local or college library for _Old Highland Dress 
and Tartans_ by H.F. McClintock. This is a partial book of a larger book 
called _Old Irish and Highland Dress_ which also has a revised book that 
added something like _... and that of the Isle of Man_ or something like 
it. Any of the three will get you more info on Scottish attire from as 
early a written history as they had (very little prior to the 16th c., a 
smattering in the 16th c., and much more of later times). There are a few 
other books out there, but this was the one I used most frequently as 
McClintock quotes original works as much as possible.

hth,

Kimiko



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No criticism intended. The previous poster referred to a shop in Ludlow, which surprised me as I was only aware of the village workshop which isn't officially open to the public. I didn't attempt to make contact as I had only gone there out of idle curiosity, not to buy anything in particular.
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> mikes@dandy.net 19/07/2005 23:01 >>>

Hi, All. I can second Suzi's enthusiastic support of Spike (Steve) and 
his wife. He was kind enough to allow a random American reenactor to 
share his home (church) some years ago, and I am in awe of his skill in 
reproducing interesting historical items. I am also an avid customer of 
his. I was able to phone him when I visited, so perhaps he was away at 
an event that weekend, Kate? BTW, his spoons do enter into our period, 
and I think he still does his repro Charles I coin sets... Cheers, Mike T.



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Harry Potter was: elizabethan dress trim question
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 Warning: Spoiler for HP fans!

 I thought that immediately. Also Fawkes disappeared from Hogwarts after
which is curious, seeing as there were wounded defenders. So we may be
hearing more from D as he is the only wizard Voldemort(t is silent
according to JK Rowling)that Voldemort fears. And what was in what D
drank and insisted Harry make him drink it all, no matter what? JKR has
always had D insist that he would trust Severus Snape with his
life(possible multiple meanings here)


On a costuming bent: always note that JK Rowling describes what the
characters are wearing--what is the significance of D's robes?

Cindy Abel
cynthiaabel@creighton.edu 

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If you are going to put spoilers, please put several blank lines
between "spoiler alert" and the spoiler, or else note spoiler in the
subject, please.

This is pretty standard practice on lists where spoilers are likely to occur.

Thank you.

Irmart (who can't get her copy until Friday!)

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: spoiler Re: [h-cost] Harry Potter was: elizabethan dress trim question
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>P.S.  Anyone else wondering if Dumbledor was pleading with Snape not to kill
>him or if he was pleading with Snape to kill him and maintain his cover?

Not wondering - think I know.

>Was it really Sirius Blacks brother Regulas who stole the locket?  Is it the
>locket they found in the house?

Do Mr. Borgun's initials match?

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Dianne and Greg" <goofy1@suscom.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harry Potter SPOILERS
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 10:38 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Harry Potter was: elizabethan dress trim question


> Warning: Spoiler for HP fans!
>
>  I thought that immediately. Also Fawkes disappeared from Hogwarts after
> which is curious, seeing as there were wounded defenders. So we may be
> hearing more from D as he is the only wizard Voldemort(t is silent
> according to JK Rowling)that Voldemort fears. And what was in what D
> drank and insisted Harry make him drink it all, no matter what? JKR has
> always had D insist that he would trust Severus Snape with his
> life(possible multiple meanings here)

Also note that, at D's funeral, Harry thinks for "one glorious moment" that
he saw a phoenix fly out of the flames around the tomb.
>
>
> On a costuming bent: always note that JK Rowling describes what the
> characters are wearing--what is the significance of D's robes?

Rats, now I have to read it again, as I have forgotten the description of
his robes. Oh, the agony...

Dianne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harry Potter SPOILERS
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 14:38:26 -0400
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Um, guys?

can we please bring the posts back on topic to costuming?

And thanks for changing the header. :-)

S.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dianne and Greg" <goofy1@suscom.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harry Potter SPOILERS


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 10:38 AM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Harry Potter was: elizabethan dress trim question
>
>
> > Warning: Spoiler for HP fans!
> >
> >  I thought that immediately. Also Fawkes disappeared from Hogwarts after
> > which is curious, seeing as there were wounded defenders. So we may be
> > hearing more from D as he is the only wizard Voldemort(t is silent
> > according to JK Rowling)that Voldemort fears. And what was in what D
> > drank and insisted Harry make him drink it all, no matter what? JKR has
> > always had D insist that he would trust Severus Snape with his
> > life(possible multiple meanings here)
>
> Also note that, at D's funeral, Harry thinks for "one glorious moment"
that
> he saw a phoenix fly out of the flames around the tomb.
> >
> >
> > On a costuming bent: always note that JK Rowling describes what the
> > characters are wearing--what is the significance of D's robes?
>
> Rats, now I have to read it again, as I have forgotten the description of
> his robes. Oh, the agony...
>
> Dianne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 19:44:28 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: everything - newbie delurking
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Hi Annette,

I'm assuming this is roughly the kind of look you're aiming for?
https://www.geoffreykilts.co.uk/upload/tplt_test_.asp?page=2100002147

the "Jacobean outfit" (authentic? pah!) (The Jacobite rebellions were 
1695, 1715 and, most famously, 1745.  A "Jacobite style" shirt is 
generally floppy with a slit neck hole, laced across.)

I had a quick look through the main pattern companies, and was surprised 
that I couldn't find a generic "romantic" kilt outfit.  I'm sure I have 
seen them - maybe it's the wrong season, maybe if you look back over the 
winter catalogues they might have something?  Otherwise you could 
probably do the shirt and doublet/jerkin/thingy from Butterick B4574, 
which is a pirate but similar
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4574=x&TI
='b4574'&page=1
(The one shown is about 2 sizes too big for the chap wearing it, I 
reckon!) You need to make the sleeve caps smaller, only about 3 inches 
wide at the shoulder.

But as Kimiko says, this kind of thing really isn't authentic.  The best 
thing is to look at the period sources and try to find a compromise 
between what is authentic and what your chap wants to wear.  You can get 
away with a late 16th century doublet and shirt worn with the Great Kilt 
- if he has a modern kilt he wants to wear for the wedding, you can 
replace it with a Great Kilt (if he's brave) or hose for SCA use.

Jean





Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote
>At 03:00 PM 7/18/2005, you wrote:
>>Does anyone know where I can find a pattern for a Ghillie or 
>>"Jacobite" shirt or something of the sort (the more period appropriate 
>>the better), and a pattern for what is referred to as a 'Frontier' 
>>Gilet/doublet in the highland catalogs?
>
>
>Hello Annette,
>
>I am not sure about the rest of your questions, especially the costume 
>books, as I have not read those nor is French my thing. However, on 
>Scottish attire, that I know some things about, as I did 16th century 
>re-enactment for a decade or so.
>
>Ghillies (or gillies), when not talking about a male attendant on a 
>Chief, is generally talking about shoes. However, you asked about a 
>"Jacobite" shirt as well, so I am not positive what exactly you are 
>asking for. Were you asking about a shirt style?
>
>You also mention that you are interested in using the wedding outfits 
>for SCA purposes afterwards. However, anything Jacobite related 
>Scotswear is much later than 16th century, which is my understanding 
>the cutoff points for SCA purposes (I am not in the SCA, but that was 
>my understanding. Please correct me if I am incorrect.) I don' recall 
>exactly the dates for the Jacobite rebellions, but I know there was a 
>ban soon afterwards that is recorded in 1747 in my book. Do you have a 
>specific time frame you are going for?
>
>As to a "'Frontier' Gilet/doublet in the highland catalogs", I couldn't 
>even begin to guess what style exactly that would mean. Do you have an 
>online link to something in mind? A picture would definitely help here.
>
>If you are interested in period history on Scottish attire, especially 
>from the highlands, check your local or college library for _Old 
>Highland Dress and Tartans_ by H.F. McClintock. This is a partial book 
>of a larger book called _Old Irish and Highland Dress_ which also has a 
>revised book that added something like _... and that of the Isle of 
>Man_ or something like it. Any of the three will get you more info on 
>Scottish attire from as early a written history as they had (very 
>little prior to the 16th c., a smattering in the 16th c., and much more 
>of later times). There are a few other books out there, but this was 
>the one I used most frequently as McClintock quotes original works as 
>much as possible.
>
>hth,
>
>Kimiko
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Jean Waddie wrote:


> I had a quick look through the main pattern companies, and was surprised 
> that I couldn't find a generic "romantic" kilt outfit.  I'm sure I have 
> seen them - maybe it's the wrong season, maybe if you look back over the 
> winter catalogues they might have something? 

There's Butterick 4486, which has those shirts with lacing up the front. 
It's new so it's probably still in stores.

Simplicity put out a "Scottish" renfest set for men a while back, it's 
number 8913. I do not know if it is still in print. It's older and due 
to be pulled if it's not gone already.

Simplicity 5029 is a recent pattern for a modern kilt, jacket, and sash. 
It should be available, if not it's worth contacting the company to see 
if they have any left in the warehouse they can sell you direct.



Dawn



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Well it sort of was on topic with D's robes.
I have a question. Do the movie costumes match the books' description?

De
Who has not read any of the books, though loves the movies.

-----Original Message-----
Um, guys?

can we please bring the posts back on topic to costuming?

And thanks for changing the header. :-)

S.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Harry Potter SPOILERS and costumes
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>Well it sort of was on topic with D's robes.
>I have a question. Do the movie costumes match the books' description?

They tried.  But there's only so much you can do with words, a picture 
traditionally being worth a thousand of them.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Ouches (was Elizabethan dress trim question)
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This word appears in the King James Bible (Numbers, I think, in the description of the Ephod), with apparently the same meaning; so how's that for a source?
 
Tea Rose
 
================================
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Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 23:35:57 -0400
From: "suziclarkeuk-mail@mail.suziclarke.co.uk"
    <suziclarkeuk-mail@suziclarke.co.uk>
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>Kimiko wrote:
>>  I also need "ouches" or > something similar for the hats I am working on
>
>OK, I'll bite- what are "ouches"?
>          -Helen/Aidan


That's what the creator (Steve Millingham) of the jewelry replicas calls 
"dress jewels (ouches) ". I am not sure why he calls them that, as in I 
haven't seen a source for the name other than at his site.
http://www.tudorjewels.com/princess%20elizabeth.htm
First jewelry pic you come across. It's what I want for the jewelry I am 
looking to get.

Steve Millingham got the word from my customer who got it from me, who got
it from Annie the Pedlar who did the research for my Elizabeth figure. I
imagine she has sources for it, as she did a great deal of research before
making the jewellery for me.

Suzi
=============================================

KP wrote:
> It's not just his term:
> http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?book=Dictionary&va=ouch
> 

Very cool. A new, accurate, but obsolete, word.
Thanks, 
         -Helen/Aidan
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Thank you all for sharing your stories about Steve and his wife, not to 
mention the jewelry he makes. Thank you Suzi for mentioning Annie the 
Pedler as well.

I am all to aware of how heavy metal jewelry will be for the hats, which is 
something I am very worried about. If only it could look like gold, feel 
like gold, but weigh as light as a feather.

I do want a good reproduction of the jewelry that I intend on wearing, but 
for the hat I may have to go with something lighter, even if it isn't quite 
portrait perfect. I don't know if buckram and wire can hold up to several 
metal pieces... which makes me wonder how they did hold up to a lot of 
metal pieces, especially if they were really big gold "ouches" with stones 
as the portraits show. Is there a support under there that we are missing 
just looking at the hoods?

I will keep looking around for my project, and see if I can find anything 
suitable for the French hood. Wish me luck!

Kimiko

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At 11:44 AM 7/20/2005, you wrote:
>You can get away with a late 16th century doublet and shirt worn with the 
>Great Kilt - if he has a modern kilt he wants to wear for the wedding, you 
>can replace it with a Great Kilt (if he's brave) or hose for SCA use.
>
>Jean


Mmmmmmm... great kilts. I so love a man who wears great kilts. That's one 
reason why I married my husband. :-) Now if I could just get him to wear 
them around the house or something. {sigh}

And there's one way to get a man to wear any kilt, great or modern. That's 
to appreciate them fully while they wear it. Believe me, we used to have 
loads of guys wanting to wear kilts at our various local faires because all 
the women just went for the guys in them. Bonny Knees contests were very 
popular. Ah, those were the days I miss, when I was young and ... well 
young. ;-)

... but I digress.

There is a pattern from Folkwear patterns (#152) that includes the kilt, 
shirt and jacket, but it is definitely modern in styling. I have never used 
the pattern, and I've heard over the years that it wasn't worth getting, 
but I am not positive why other than it was hard to follow.

Simplicity has #5029 (modern) and #8913 (faux historic), and the other big 
companies may have something similar.

The great kilts we used in faire (theatrical use, not strictly period) were 
hand pleated and belted onto the wearer every time (hint, use a weight 
lifter's belt if they wear the kilt for very long. Helps the body 
distribute the weight of wool better), and shirts were basic rectangular 
shirts, although I did develop a kilt shirt that had a semi-fitted yoke, 
and a long wide underskirting gathered to the yoke that helped prevent 
chaffing under the wool; very helpful for those who went "regimental". I've 
only recently found a similar type of shirt that was historical, but I 
don't think it was Scottish (French, or Burgundian from an earlier time??? 
... I can't find that link anymore, grrr).

hth,

Kimiko


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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harry Potter SPOILERS
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 17:43:13 -0500
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I was surprised to find that I was far angrier over Snape (possibly) turning 
evil than over Dumbledore's death--one of my favorite parts of the series 
has been this character who by all that's reasonable SHOULD be evil, yet is 
able to put aside his intense hatred in order to do what's right; not only 
right for everyone in general, but right for the object of his hatred 
specifically.  I thought it was incredibly brave of the author to create 
that sort of character in this kind of a book and I'll lose a lot of respect 
for her if Snape turns out to be truly evil.

Bet he won't, though.  The way that Dumbledore repeatedly made Harry swear 
to do whatever Dumbledore said, no matter how much danger that put 
Dumbledore in, makes me almost certain that Snape had promised the same sort 
of thing.  Not 'please Snape, don't betray me,' but 'please Snape, do what 
you promised.'  Snape's reaction to being called a coward by Harry seems to 
feed into this theory... obeying Dumbledore under the circumstances 
certainly wasn't a cowardly act.

-E House 

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I've seen in cartoons, and the like, pictures of an old style Laboratory
coat (white, high collar, has a flap front that closes with buttons on the
shoulder - tends to be slightly fitted).

Does anyone know where I can find more information about these? Or even a
pattern. Are they real or just a mythical garment?

Susan

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How do I unsubscribe from this list while I am on vacation? I have tried 
every trick listed on the H-Costume group page and none of them work.
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Susan wrote:
> I've seen in cartoons, and the like, pictures of an old style Laboratory
> coat (white, high collar, has a flap front that closes with buttons on the
> shoulder - tends to be slightly fitted).
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find more information about these? Or even a
> pattern. Are they real or just a mythical garment?

A quick stab at Google and Froogle shows chef's double breasted chef 
coats which might be like this, although the early selections were too 
short.  If you keep looking, you might find longer ones.

I don't suppose you're a Girl Genius fan, too? (Online cartoon with mad 
scientists.)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

About 1/4 of men and 1/6 of women leave a bathroom without washing their 
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Bad Astronomer's Blog
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Spike's work is probably the best repro pewter around.

He does all sorts of stuff (the apostle spoons are fabulous, as is all the 
jewellery) - and his stock goes up to the 18th century, although of course he 
takes commissions too.  In pirates of the carribean it was spike's cutlery they 
shot out of the cannon (god, what a waste!)

I always take some time out at the markets to drool over his stall!!

Debs.

PS the website is .co.uk, not .com (ie www.pewterreplicas.co.uk :-) )

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References: <200507182053.j6IKqlD0022967@net.indra.com><20050718220036.78824.qmail@web30309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>	<6.2.1.2.0.20050719225929.0358c838@64.87.54.245><007601c58d88$e3c14510$0300a8c0@sc>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 19:29:43 -0700
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> > Does anyone know where I can find more information about these? Or even
a
> > pattern. Are they real or just a mythical garment?
>
> A quick stab at Google and Froogle shows chef's double breasted chef
> coats which might be like this, although the early selections were too
> short.  If you keep looking, you might find longer ones.

No, it's close but they have two lines of buttons down the front and the
ones I am thinking of have one line or none.  I was hoping there was a
history of lab coats website out there that someone knews about that I can't
find.
>
> I don't suppose you're a Girl Genius fan, too? (Online cartoon with mad
> scientists.)
>
Oddly enough, while I've known Kaja (and by extension Phil) off and on for
years I'm not a fan.

This has two roots - one is that someone on another of my lists was asking
what a female doctor would be wearing in the 20's and I was wondering what
lab coats looked like then. And the other is that I've got a friend with
perfect mad scientist hair and I was thinking of offering to make him a
coat.\

But thanks, Susan


> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>
>

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From: "Kristalor" <kristalori@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 22:30:33 -0400
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It's not a nehru jacket?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan" <Scourney@nwlink.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats


> > > Does anyone know where I can find more information about these? Or
even
> a
> > > pattern. Are they real or just a mythical garment?
> >
> > A quick stab at Google and Froogle shows chef's double breasted chef
> > coats which might be like this, although the early selections were too
> > short.  If you keep looking, you might find longer ones.
>
> No, it's close but they have two lines of buttons down the front and the
> ones I am thinking of have one line or none.  I was hoping there was a
> history of lab coats website out there that someone knews about that I
can't
> find.
> >
> > I don't suppose you're a Girl Genius fan, too? (Online cartoon with mad
> > scientists.)
> >
> Oddly enough, while I've known Kaja (and by extension Phil) off and on for
> years I'm not a fan.
>
> This has two roots - one is that someone on another of my lists was asking
> what a female doctor would be wearing in the 20's and I was wondering what
> lab coats looked like then. And the other is that I've got a friend with
> perfect mad scientist hair and I was thinking of offering to make him a
> coat.\
>
> But thanks, Susan
>
>
> > -- 
> > Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 19:40:26 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
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At 06:05 PM 7/20/2005, you wrote:
>I don't suppose you're a Girl Genius fan, too? (Online cartoon with mad 
>scientists.)


Online??? Online???? I love Girl Genius, but I read the books my friend 
picks up for me. Are you saying that it is available online as well? 
OOoooohhhh.

Kimiko


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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
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They were not mythical fourty years ago when my ex-husband was chief med-tech at a hospital lab.  I made a half dozen of the miserable things but didn't have a pattern - just used an old one he had bought as a guide.  He was very tall and thin and it was difficult to buy uniforms that actually fit him so I made his lab coats.  Actually, they were rather spiffy looking, but he was a great looking guy and looked really good in white.  

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Susan" <Scourney@nwlink.com> wrote:

From: "Susan" <Scourney@nwlink.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 17:12:32 -0700
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] lab coats


I've seen in cartoons, and the like, pictures of an old style Laboratory
coat (white, high collar, has a flap front that closes with buttons on the
shoulder - tends to be slightly fitted).

Does anyone know where I can find more information about these? Or even a
pattern. Are they real or just a mythical garment?

Susan

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_____________________________________________________________
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 11:59:33 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The lab coat is a knee-length heavy cotton (usually white) unlined 
coat/jacket, with side seams split to allow access to trousers pockets, 
possibly two front pockets with angled openings, and a pocket on the 
left chest. You could probably use a raincoat pattern along 
Chesterfield lines (narrow lapels, somewhat high closing) and come 
pretty close, back kick opening and all.
Many doctors still wear these, and so do many college lab instructors. 
And so did they when I was in college (late '60s), and I imagine well 
into the past with little change. The set designer in my college 
theater program also wore them.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Jul 20, 2005, at 10:30 PM, Kristalor wrote:

> It's not a nehru jacket?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Susan" <Scourney@nwlink.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 10:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
>
>
>>>> Does anyone know where I can find more information about these? Or
> even
>> a
>>>> pattern. Are they real or just a mythical garment?
>>>
>>> A quick stab at Google and Froogle shows chef's double breasted chef
>>> coats which might be like this, although the early selections were 
>>> too
>>> short.  If you keep looking, you might find longer ones.
>>
>> No, it's close but they have two lines of buttons down the front and 
>> the
>> ones I am thinking of have one line or none.  I was hoping there was a
>> history of lab coats website out there that someone knews about that I
> can't
>> find.
>>>
>>> I don't suppose you're a Girl Genius fan, too? (Online cartoon with 
>>> mad
>>> scientists.)
>>>
>> Oddly enough, while I've known Kaja (and by extension Phil) off and 
>> on for
>> years I'm not a fan.
>>
>> This has two roots - one is that someone on another of my lists was 
>> asking
>> what a female doctor would be wearing in the 20's and I was wondering 
>> what
>> lab coats looked like then. And the other is that I've got a friend 
>> with
>> perfect mad scientist hair and I was thinking of offering to make him 
>> a
>> coat.\
>>
>> But thanks, Susan
>>
>>
>>> -- 
>>> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>>>
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
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When I was a tech writer for one of Hewlett-Packard's computer research 
labs, there was a chemistry research lab across the hall. Our 
department's vending machine was near our door to that hall, and the 
chemists came in to use it a lot. Yes, they wore white lab coats.  They 
also wore what is apparently the other essential costuming accessory for 
chemists (and probably mad scientists)--badly stained hands.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:

> The lab coat is a knee-length heavy cotton (usually white) unlined 
> coat/jacket, with side seams split to allow access to trousers 
> pockets, possibly two front pockets with angled openings, and a pocket 
> on the left chest.

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Regular lab coats can be had from many places, easily.  I got one for my 
hubby one year; his job title was "Senior Scientist" and I had one 
embroidered "Senior Mad Scientist" above the pocket in the usual place.

However, the shoulder-button type is one I've only seen in 
Victorian-era-imitation mad scientists.  I'll be interested to hear if 
anyone comes up with a ready-made source.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

About 1/4 of men and 1/6 of women leave a bathroom without washing their 
hands. So wash! And use soap. Just rinsing doesnÕt help, and in fact it 
hurts; wet hands are a great place for breeding more bacteria.  -- The 
Bad Astronomer's Blog
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Quoting Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>:

> The lab coat is a knee-length heavy cotton (usually white) unlined
> coat/jacket, with side seams split to allow access to trousers pockets,
> possibly two front pockets with angled openings, and a pocket on the
> left chest. You could probably use a raincoat pattern along
> Chesterfield lines (narrow lapels, somewhat high closing) and come
> pretty close, back kick opening and all.

That's how mine is made.  And I embroidered a Trillium on the pocket so
that no one would walk of with it.  :-S

Susan, botanist and occasional lab rat
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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http://nawtythings.com/halloween/him4.html
This one it's probably not really what you are looking for but it's closer
than the newer style coats.

I know that House of Vamp (a goth company) does a "lab coat" dress. Maybe
they have some ideas.
http://www.houseofvamp.com/Catagories/dresses/new/labcoatla2_t.jpg

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
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Quoting Susan <Scourney@nwlink.com>:

>
> I've seen in cartoons, and the like, pictures of an old style Laboratory
> coat (white, high collar, has a flap front that closes with buttons on the
> shoulder - tends to be slightly fitted).

Sounds like you're thinking about what I think of as a chef's jacket
http://images.google.com/images?q=chef+jacket&hl=en&lr=&sa=N&tab=wi
Sinplicity has a pattern for one.

Susan (who's lab coat is just like an Old Fashioned Duster)
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] Spoiler space please!!
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Please folks, have pity on us poor schleps that can't read the book 
right away.  Put space at the top of the messages so we can enjoy our 
read as much as you obviously are.  :D

Thanks!!

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Reunite Pangaea!

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
people.
- Giordano Bruno

Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
- Gunn

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Maybe look for a chef's coat or pharmacist's, maybe
dentist.

I've only seen pictures of lab coats back to the turn
of the 20th century at my school, and they tended
towards large.  (women in the chemistry lab; woman's
college)

My own, personal lab coats when I worked in chemistry
were nearly always Huge, as I am a pear-shaped woman,
and the coats are cut straight down.

not very helpful, sorry.

Ann in CT
Smith
--- Susan <Scourney@nwlink.com> wrote:

> 
> I've seen in cartoons, and the like, pictures of an
> old style Laboratory
> coat (white, high collar, has a flap front that
> closes with buttons on the
> shoulder - tends to be slightly fitted).
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find more information
> about these? Or even a
> pattern. Are they real or just a mythical garment?
> 
> Susan



		
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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'd be downright shocked if the American Memory collection at the Library of 
Congress didn't have some pictures of doctors/scientists in the 1920s:
http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/

-E House

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan" <Scourney@nwlink.com>
<snip>
> This has two roots - one is that someone on another of my lists was asking
> what a female doctor would be wearing in the 20's and I was wondering what
> lab coats looked like then. And the other is that I've got a friend with
> perfect mad scientist hair and I was thinking of offering to make him a
> coat.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats OT: GG online
References: <200507182053.j6IKqlD0022967@net.indra.com>	<20050718220036.78824.qmail@web30309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>	<6.2.1.2.0.20050719225929.0358c838@64.87.54.245>	<007601c58d88$e3c14510$0300a8c0@sc>
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Kimiko Small wrote:
> Online??? Online???? I love Girl Genius, but I read the books my friend 
> picks up for me. Are you saying that it is available online as well? 

http://www.girlgeniusonline.com/ -- The new series starts at the end of 
issue 13; will be collected in 'graphic novel' format but not individual 
issues.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Pewter Replicas was Re: h-costume Digest, Vol
	4, Issue 463 
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At 06:21 PM 7/20/2005, you wrote:
>Debs.
>
>PS the website is .co.uk, not .com (ie www.pewterreplicas.co.uk  )


Hi Debs,

I had that url as well. However, the Tudor Jewels site 
(www.tudorjewels.com) points to the .com version 
(http://www.pewterreplicas.com), which appears to be a newer version of the 
shopping cart program or something. "Copyright © Steve Millingham Pewter 
Replicas 2005"

I wonder why he's running both? Anyone know?

And among his things like the jewelry, I want to buy my husband one of the 
German repro pocket watches, since my husband has to keep the Queen's 
schedule at faire. Oh, but Steve has too many things actually that I could 
easily spend money on. {sigh}

Kimiko



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Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> Sounds like you're thinking about what I think of as a chef's jacket

Indra's sending things through in funny order again....

It's not quite a chef's jacket.  Those tend to have two rows of buttons. 
  what I think of as the classic has one row, roughly along the nipple 
line (vertical) with a panel edge just below the collarbones, which may 
or may not have buttons.  Not fully double breasted, although I don't 
know why not.

Here's some images:

Mad science mouse:
http://www.research.usf.edu/cm/pics/mad_scientist.JPG

Nutcase in white satin version:
http://halfass.com/images/madman.jpg

GG version:
http://www.girlgeniusonline.com/promo/banners/girlgenius.08.jpg

I don't know if these are what Susan is thinking of, though.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

About 1/4 of men and 1/6 of women leave a bathroom without washing their 
hands. So wash! And use soap. Just rinsing doesnÕt help, and in fact it 
hurts; wet hands are a great place for breeding more bacteria.  -- The 
Bad Astronomer's Blog
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Cynthia Virtue posted:
> Here's some images:
>
> Mad science mouse:
> http://www.research.usf.edu/cm/pics/mad_scientist.JPG

Yes, this is really close to what I am thinking of, thanks. I looked last
night and couldn't find a picture even that good.  But I still would kinda
like to know if they were based on a real garment.

To make it I was thinking of altering a frock coat pattern.  A better
solution might be to use the frock coat back and alter a chef's coat front
to match what I am looking for.  I have the folklife pattern, so that would
be doable.

Susan

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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Kimiko Small wrote:
> 
>> Online??? Online???? I love Girl Genius, but I read the books my 
>> friend picks up for me. Are you saying that it is available online as 
>> well? 
> 
> 
> http://www.girlgeniusonline.com/ -- The new series starts at the end of 
> issue 13; will be collected in 'graphic novel' format but not individual 
> issues.
> 

FRACK! Well, that explains why my FLGS hasn't been getting issues 
lately. Not that it was ever easy to get issues....

I just love the costumes for the series. It'd be great to see a bunch of 
folks dressed up for this sometime.


Dawn

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Wouldn't it be just as easy to alter a regular jacket - extend the one
side over the other and add the facings? It wouldn't be much different
from changing a center back seam to a center side seam. These lab
coats are much closer fitting than the current ones, and I don't
remember if there are pockets in them or not.

I seem to remember a picture of several people in iron lungs in one
room. The nurses are smiling at the camera and the smiling doctors are
wearing the lab coats you are talking about. The people in the iron
lungs are not smiling. I'm sure that famous picture (from Life
Magazine IIRC) would be somewhere online.

LynnD
Works in a research laboratory

On 7/21/05, Susan <Scourney@nwlink.com> wrote:
> Cynthia Virtue posted:
> > Here's some images:
> >
> > Mad science mouse:
> > http://www.research.usf.edu/cm/pics/mad_scientist.JPG
> 
> Yes, this is really close to what I am thinking of, thanks. I looked last
> night and couldn't find a picture even that good.  But I still would kinda
> like to know if they were based on a real garment.
> 
> To make it I was thinking of altering a frock coat pattern.  A better
> solution might be to use the frock coat back and alter a chef's coat front
> to match what I am looking for.  I have the folklife pattern, so that would
> be doable.
> 
> Susan
> 
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
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Quoting Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1137527150.ae7eb6@thibault.org>:

> Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>> Sounds like you're thinking about what I think of as a chef's jacket
>
> Indra's sending things through in funny order again....

Yeah I noticed that ....

>
> It's not quite a chef's jacket.  Those tend to have two rows of buttons.
>   what I think of as the classic has one row, roughly along the nipple
> line (vertical) with a panel edge just below the collarbones, which may
> or may not have buttons.  Not fully double breasted, although I don't
> know why not.
>
> Here's some images:
>
> Mad science mouse:
> http://www.research.usf.edu/cm/pics/mad_scientist.JPG

Oh, *that* jacket!  I don't think I've ever seen one in the flesh.  I'd think
that the chef's jacket would be a good place to start for making one though.

Susan (the *other* Susan)
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
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>> Mad science mouse:
>> http://www.research.usf.edu/cm/pics/mad_scientist.JPG
> 
> Oh, *that* jacket!  I don't think I've ever seen one in the flesh.  I'd 
> think
> that the chef's jacket would be a good place to start for making one 
> though.

And would be dandy as-is for a nearly-right costume, if someone doesn't 
have a lot of time, or has good enough accessories to carry the rest of it.

I looked for the iron lung pictures, and found a lot (shudder, thank you 
Dr. Salk!) but none with other than center-front button lab coats.

cv
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To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
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Quoting Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1137534260.98a56d@thibault.org>:

>>> Mad science mouse:
>>> http://www.research.usf.edu/cm/pics/mad_scientist.JPG
>>
>> Oh, *that* jacket!  I don't think I've ever seen one in the flesh.  
>> I'd think
>> that the chef's jacket would be a good place to start for making one though.
>
> And would be dandy as-is for a nearly-right costume, if someone doesn't
> have a lot of time, or has good enough accessories to carry the rest of it.
>
> I looked for the iron lung pictures, and found a lot (shudder, thank you
> Dr. Salk!) but none with other than center-front button lab coats.

One of my professors spent a year or so in one when he was about 5.  They
wouldn't even let him kep his teddy bear.  He could see his parents via
a mirror over his head.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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I think you're referring to a coat with a standing color, buttons across one 
shoulder, and then down the side of the chest, right?
For the long-sleeved version (also long in length), try an image search for 
pictures of civilian and maybe military doctors from the influenza epidemic 
of 1918 or any of the polio epidemics pre WWII.
The short-sleeved (and shorter) version was standard wear for hospital 
interns up through the 1960's.  Any image search for "Ben Casey" or "Dr 
Kildare" should turn up plenty of pictures.  The short-sleeved version was 
also worn by dentists and pharmacists up through the 60's and maybe a bit 
beyond.
Disclaimer- look for images from the US; I don't know about the rest of the 
world.
       -Helen/Aidan 

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Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 22:07:03 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
In-Reply-To: <00c801c58e51$6dfa69f0$2d159b04@HELENPINTO>
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I found something close -
Went to http://memory.loc.gov , searched for the word "dentist".
The last picture on page 4 of the results has something really close.
(The one titled "Wilson Dam, Alabama (Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA)).
Dentist uses the X-ray on a TVA chemical worker")

It looks like a zip instead of buttons, but it has the high collar, tight
fit and side closure.

Sheryl Nance-Durst

At 08:08 PM 7/21/05 -0400, you wrote:
>I think you're referring to a coat with a standing color, buttons across 
>one shoulder, and then down the side of the chest, right?
>For the long-sleeved version (also long in length), try an image search 
>for pictures of civilian and maybe military doctors from the influenza 
>epidemic of 1918 or any of the polio epidemics pre WWII.
>The short-sleeved (and shorter) version was standard wear for hospital 
>interns up through the 1960's.  Any image search for "Ben Casey" or "Dr 
>Kildare" should turn up plenty of pictures.  The short-sleeved version was 
>also worn by dentists and pharmacists up through the 60's and maybe a bit 
>beyond.
>Disclaimer- look for images from the US; I don't know about the rest of 
>the world.
>       -Helen/Aidan
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 21 23:54:47 2005
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This looks like what you are looking for, style wise:
http://www.antiquescientifica.com/web.civil_war_confederate_surgeon's_coat.htm

http://www.braceface.com/medical/images/civil%20war%20surgeon's%20coat.jpg

I also tried finding pictures from old silent movies and horror movies,
after much head scratching (because I know I have seen them, and I can't
remember where...) I came up with this picture of a couple of makeup artists
putting Boris Karloff into his Frankenstein paint:

http://www.nlm.nih.gov/hmd/frankenstein/IIIB2.jpg  (IIRC, the short sleeved
one should tie in the back)
http://www.georgetown.edu/faculty/irvinem/english016/franken/whale.jpg

IIRC Dr Finkelstein in Nightmare Before Christmas wears one...

Hope this helps,

Sheridan


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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lab coats
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 Men's Barbers also were required to wear"appropriate"

 uniforms in the 50's-60's that were cut in this form,
I personaly remember my dentist and Peditrician
wearing these tops in the late 50's also
Melody

--- Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com> wrote:

> I found something close -
> Went to http://memory.loc.gov , searched for the
> word "dentist".
> 



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Argh.  There was a great website with a whole bunch of fashion plates from lots of different eras, which I have bookmarked.  However, I've got about 102371 sites bookmarked, so I can't find it!  I'm pretty srue it was a university website, but not positive; whatever it was, it was the website of some sort of official or semi-official group, rather than an individual.  Any ideas?

-E House
(looking for fashion plates 1915-1920)
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Debs said:
<I always take some time out at the markets to drool over his stall!!<

What type of markets are you referring to?  Do they cater to
reenactors?  Are they public markets or just at reenactment events? 
My husband and I hoping to travel to England sometime next year and
would be interested in attending one of these markets.  We members of
the SCA (in Houston, Texas).  I seem to recall finding a website
sometime ago about an annual open market for reenactors (in England)
but can't seem to find it now or maybe I'm just imagining it.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give you.

Baroness Isabeau Quiquandon, CSM, CIM
(m/k/a Terri Hirling)

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Jacobite/Scottish (was - newbie delurking)
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Hello and thank you all for the responses.
 
Kimiko - Thank you for the references - the local University ought to have at least one of those books!
 
Yes, Jacobite shirt - I have also seen it refered to as a ghilie shirt, presumably because the opening was laced. I thought I had included a link for the 'doublet', but apparently it didn't show up. I'll try again. http://www.mccallsltd.com/mall/highlandwear/shoppingFrames.htm
 
I know the Jacobite rebellion is too late - but as he wants his outfit for attending Highland games and such, and it's likely no one else at the wedding is going to know or care if it is 'to period', it wasn't vital to be that accurate with his clothes. I wish I could get him to wear a 'great kilt', but he wants his family tartan and the cost is far too prohibitive.
 
I would like to find something from an earlier era for the shirt though. Was thinking of making a variation on the '"T-tunic", but it would require so much tailoring to make it fit well that using a pattern with set in sleeves would probably be easier and quicker. I have the Simplicity 5029, and a modern jacket is planned for later on. I hadn't considered the other because it looked too costumish at first glance. Looking again though and the shirts might be ok. Would a highlander find much use for those big, belled sleeves though? ;-) Anything with a Celtic or Irish flavor would be ok too.
 
Annette
 


>Does anyone know where I can find a pattern for a Ghillie or 
"Jacobite" 
>shirt or something of the sort (the more period appropriate the 
better), 
>and a pattern for what is referred to as a 'Frontier' Gilet/doublet in 
the 
>highland catalogs?


Hello Annette,

I am not sure about the rest of your questions, especially the costume 
books, as I have not read those nor is French my thing. However, on 
Scottish attire, that I know some things about, as I did 16th century 
re-enactment for a decade or so.

Ghillies (or gillies), when not talking about a male attendant on a 
Chief, 
is generally talking about shoes. However, you asked about a "Jacobite" 
shirt as well, so I am not positive what exactly you are asking for. 
Were 
you asking about a shirt style?

You also mention that you are interested in using the wedding outfits 
for 
SCA purposes afterwards. However, anything Jacobite related Scotswear 
is 
much later than 16th century, which is my understanding the cutoff 
points 
for SCA purposes (I am not in the SCA, but that was my understanding. 
Please correct me if I am incorrect.) I don' recall exactly the dates 
for 
the Jacobite rebellions, but I know there was a ban soon afterwards 
that is 
recorded in 1747 in my book. Do you have a specific time frame you are 
going for?

As to a "'Frontier' Gilet/doublet in the highland catalogs", I couldn't 
even begin to guess what style exactly that would mean. Do you have an 
online link to something in mind? A picture would definitely help here.

If you are interested in period history on Scottish attire, especially 
from 
the highlands, check your local or college library for _Old Highland 
Dress 
and Tartans_ by H.F. McClintock. This is a partial book of a larger 
book 
called _Old Irish and Highland Dress_ which also has a revised book 
that 
added something like _... and that of the Isle of Man_ or something 
like 
it. Any of the three will get you more info on Scottish attire from as 
early a written history as they had (very little prior to the 16th c., 
a 
smattering in the 16th c., and much more of later times). There are a 
few 
other books out there, but this was the one I used most frequently as 
McClintock quotes original works as much as possible.

hth,

Kimiko

I'm assuming this is roughly the kind of look you're aiming for?
https://www.geoffreykilts.co.uk/upload/tplt_test_.asp?page=2100002147

the "Jacobean outfit" (authentic? pah!) (The Jacobite rebellions were 
1695, 1715 and, most famously, 1745.  A "Jacobite style" shirt is 
generally floppy with a slit neck hole, laced across.)

I had a quick look through the main pattern companies, and was 
surprised 
that I couldn't find a generic "romantic" kilt outfit.  I'm sure I have 
seen them - maybe it's the wrong season, maybe if you look back over 
the 
winter catalogues they might have something?  Otherwise you could 
probably do the shirt and doublet/jerkin/thingy from Butterick B4574, 
which is a pirate but similar
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4574=x&TI
='b4574'&page=1
(The one shown is about 2 sizes too big for the chap wearing it, I 
reckon!) You need to make the sleeve caps smaller, only about 3 inches 
wide at the shoulder.

But as Kimiko says, this kind of thing really isn't authentic.  The 
best 
thing is to look at the period sources and try to find a compromise 
between what is authentic and what your chap wants to wear.  You can 
get 
away with a late 16th century doublet and shirt worn with the Great 
Kilt 
- if he has a modern kilt he wants to wear for the wedding, you can 
replace it with a Great Kilt (if he's brave) or hose for SCA use.

Jean


> I had a quick look through the main pattern companies, and was 
surprised 
> that I couldn't find a generic "romantic" kilt outfit.  I'm sure I 
have 
> seen them - maybe it's the wrong season, maybe if you look back over 
the 
> winter catalogues they might have something? 

There's Butterick 4486, which has those shirts with lacing up the 
front. 
It's new so it's probably still in stores.

Simplicity put out a "Scottish" renfest set for men a while back, it's 
number 8913. I do not know if it is still in print. It's older and due 
to be pulled if it's not gone already.

Simplicity 5029 is a recent pattern for a modern kilt, jacket, and 
sash. 
It should be available, if not it's worth contacting the company to see 
if they have any left in the warehouse they can sell you direct.



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The University of Washington has an online collection but it stops at 1915

http://content.lib.washington.edu/costumehistweb/index.html



> Message: 13
> Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 10:04:22 -0500
> From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
> Subject: [h-cost] fashion plates website
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <015901c58ece$a6077180$0400a8c0@compaqub>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
>
> Argh.  There was a great website with a whole bunch of fashion plates from
lots of different eras, which I have bookmarked.  However, I've got about
102371 sites bookmarked, so I can't find it!  I'm pretty srue it was a
university website, but not positive; whatever it was, it was the website of
some sort of official or semi-official group, rather than an individual.
Any ideas?
>
> -E House
> (looking for fashion plates 1915-1920)
>

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There are a variety of old horror movies that feature that sort of lab coat. I have this mental picture of the werewolf standing next to a scientist wearing that sort of coat which could be way off base. I am not sure, but I think that is what the Dr. is wearing in "Van Helsing" too. Defintiely something that was considered a dentist's coat in a shorter version at one time.
 
I think your idea of taking an old frock coat back and chef's coat front and altering might work. Seems you have a pretty good idea of how it is supposed to look. As someone else said, there should openings in the side seams for access to trouser pockets. The modern coats I wore when I worked in a lab also had large patch pockets on the front and one on the chest.
 
 
>From: "otsisto" 
>Subject: [h-cost] Japanes fabrics

> http://www.kimkatz.com/
 
Yum! These are beautiful fabrics!
 
Annette

		
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Argh.  There was a great website with a whole bunch of fashion plates from
lots of different eras, which I have bookmarked.  However, I've got about
102371 sites bookmarked, so I can't find it!  I'm pretty srue it was a
university website, but not positive; whatever it was, it was the website
of some sort of official or semi-official group, rather than an individual.
Any ideas?

-E House
(looking for fashion plates 1915-1920)
_______________________________________________
It might be this
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/costumehistweb/index.html

For ealier plates I have several sites marked on my links page.

Suzi

www.suziclarke.co.uk

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<I always take some time out at the markets to drool over his stall!!<

What type of markets are you referring to?  Do they cater to
reenactors?  Are they public markets or just at reenactment events? 
My husband and I hoping to travel to England sometime next year and
would be interested in attending one of these markets.  We members of
the SCA (in Houston, Texas).  I seem to recall finding a website
sometime ago about an annual open market for reenactors (in England)
but can't seem to find it now or maybe I'm just imagining it.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give you.


Try www.livinghistory.com (I think) there are several banner ads at the top
for markets. There are a goddly number. However, not everyone who is a
maker attends the markets, me for a start!!

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] Lacing rings
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Does anyone know the merchant who sold me a supply of small (less than 1/4 inch)
but sturdy brass rings (no visible seam) that I purchased at an SCA event a few
years ago?  Unfortunately I can't remember where I bought these, or I'd go back
to that source.  She also had larger brighter rings and even some white venetian
glass rings at the time.

I'm looking for this merchant because she's the only one I've seen that has the
kind of rings she sells.  If Greenberg & Hammer has these, I don't know what
they'd be called.  I'm willing to buy from other vendors, especially on-line
vendors, if I can find one.

Thank you for your help.

- Ynes

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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 09:15:48 -0700
From: Crystal Gold <crysgold@shaw.ca>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lacing rings
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I'm sorry.  I've only seen what you've described in a 1/2 inch size.
They're found in the curtain/drapery department of one of our local shops.

-Crystal.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of ynes@sskip.net
Sent: July 22, 2005 9:04 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Lacing rings


Does anyone know the merchant who sold me a supply of small (less than 1/4
inch)
but sturdy brass rings (no visible seam) that I purchased at an SCA event a
few
years ago?  Unfortunately I can't remember where I bought these, or I'd go
back
to that source.  She also had larger brighter rings and even some white
venetian
glass rings at the time.

I'm looking for this merchant because she's the only one I've seen that has
the
kind of rings she sells.  If Greenberg & Hammer has these, I don't know what
they'd be called.  I'm willing to buy from other vendors, especially on-line
vendors, if I can find one.

Thank you for your help.

- Ynes

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Kahlara wrote:


> I would like to find something from an earlier era for the shirt though. Was thinking of making a variation on the '"T-tunic", but it would require so much tailoring to make it fit well that using a pattern with set in sleeves would probably be easier and quicker. I have the Simplicity 5029, and a modern jacket is planned for later on. I hadn't considered the other because it looked too costumish at first glance. Looking again though and the shirts might be ok. Would a highlander find much use for those big, belled sleeves though? ;-) Anything with a Celtic or Irish flavor would be ok too.
>  

McCalls 2802 has a shirt with a renaissance gathered neckline that would 
work as "earlier era". The sleeves might be a bit on the poofy side, but 
you might like that look.

I can't quite see how the 'doublet' in your link is cut, but Butterick 
5656 might be a good option if you cut it waist length. Simplicity 5574 
could also work for you. One view has the higher waist, the other has 
the collar and shoulder tabs.


Dawn


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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 12:47:44 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing rings
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Hey Ynez...

How many do you need?  I can buy them for you at Pennsic.  Then send 
them... along with the silk thread I promised you <blush> ages ago.  And I 
can also include her card.

Mari  /  Bridgette

>Does anyone know the merchant who sold me a supply of small (less than 1/4 
>inch)
>but sturdy brass rings (no visible seam) that I purchased at an SCA event 
>a few
>years ago?  Unfortunately I can't remember where I bought these, or I'd go 
>back
>to that source.  She also had larger brighter rings and even some white 
>venetian
>glass rings at the time.
>
>I'm looking for this merchant because she's the only one I've seen that 
>has the
>kind of rings she sells.  If Greenberg & Hammer has these, I don't know what
>they'd be called.  I'm willing to buy from other vendors, especially on-line
>vendors, if I can find one.
>
>Thank you for your help.
>
>- Ynes

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing rings
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Fine Mountain Gems carries 'em--look for 'pre-soldered rings'.  They have 
them in several sizes and gauges:
http://www.firemountaingems.com

-E House 

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lacing rings
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And maybe mention "her" name/shop so those of us going to Pennsic can find
them also?
Betsy

Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing rings


Hey Ynez...

How many do you need?  I can buy them for you at Pennsic.  Then send 
them... along with the silk thread I promised you <blush> ages ago.  And I 
can also include her card.

Mari  /  Bridgette
tume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fashion plates website
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That's the one I was thinking of!  Thanks, guys.

-E House

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lacing rings
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Sorry I don't know her name... only that she is 2-3 stalls up the road from 
Dragon's Magic Fabrics.  But I will attempt to post her info once I have 
it... after Pennsic.
Bridgette


>And maybe mention "her" name/shop so those of us going to Pennsic can find
>them also?
>Betsy
>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing rings
>
>
>Hey Ynez...
>
>How many do you need?  I can buy them for you at Pennsic.  Then send
>them... along with the silk thread I promised you <blush> ages ago.  And I
>can also include her card.
>
>Mari  /  Bridgette
>tume

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Subject: [h-cost] Article on Bizarre Fashion Trends
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Given the recent discussion of today's unflattering and sloppy fashions, 
I thought some of you might be interested in this article about the 
subject and its relation to history.

http://encarta.msn.com/encnet/departments/CareerTraining/?article=weirdfashionmain

-- 
Anne Dealy
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Inez said:

<Does anyone know the merchant who sold me a supply of small (less
than 1/4 inch) but sturdy brass rings (no visible seam) that I
purchased at an SCA event a few years ago?  Unfortunately I can't
remember where I bought these, or I'd go back
to that source.  She also had larger brighter rings and even some white venetian
glass rings at the time.>

Here's where I got my brass rings:

http://www.textol.com/drapery/Page_15.htm

At $20.00 a bag (1000 rings), I'd say that's a pretty good price.  Not
to mention that its probably a lifetime supply.  I've given some away
and still have a bunch.  They're not 1/4" though, more like 1/2".  I
really like them.  There is one drawback though, they have a $25
minimum.  I think when I placed my order I also got an 18" x 18"
pillow form for $6.70.

Hope that helps.


Isabeau

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Terri Hirling wrote:
> http://www.textol.com/drapery/Page_15.htm
> 
> At $20.00 a bag (1000 rings), I'd say that's a pretty good price.  Not
> to mention that its probably a lifetime supply.  I've given some away
> and still have a bunch.  They're not 1/4" though, more like 1/2".

Calico Corners and other similar custom or make your own fancy curtain 
shops have them, although usually in squashed cardboard boxes in a 
drawer somewhere known only to staff, so you have to ask for them.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue
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I've also been told that you can get them from fishing supply shops. 
Not yet tried going there though.
Warmest Regards,
Aylwen Garden

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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 19:07:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lacing rings at JoAnns' ...a back room item
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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i got the brass no seam rings at JoAnn's in the
curtain supply rack.It's one particular company
something like "Warm Wonder" or Warm weather" they
have their own display board. they aren't on the
"notions wall" they are where the Decor fabric on
thoses big rolls are.
About $4.00 for 40  i believe they are the small 1/4"
ones.
Melody

--- Crystal Gold <crysgold@shaw.ca> wrote:

> I'm sorry.  I've only seen what you've described in
> a 1/2 inch size.
> They're found in the curtain/drapery department of
> one of our local shops.
> 
> -Crystal.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of ynes@sskip.net
> Sent: July 22, 2005 9:04 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Lacing rings
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the merchant who sold me a supply
> of small (less than 1/4
> inch)
> but sturdy brass rings (no visible seam) that I
> purchased at an SCA event a
> few
> years ago?  Unfortunately I can't remember where I
> bought these, or I'd go
> back
> to that source.  She also had larger brighter rings
> and even some white
> venetian
> glass rings at the time.
> 
> I'm looking for this merchant because she's the only
> one I've seen that has
> the
> kind of rings she sells.  If Greenberg & Hammer has
> these, I don't know what
> they'd be called.  I'm willing to buy from other
> vendors, especially on-line
> vendors, if I can find one.
> 
> Thank you for your help.
> 
> - Ynes
> 
> --
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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 19:37:15 -0700
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From: "Sharon L. Krossa" <skrossa-ml@medievalscotland.org>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Jacobite/Scottish
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I'm coming to this discussion late (just having rejoined the list), 
but on an issue of terminology origin raised...

At 8:31 AM -0700 7/22/05, Kahlara wrote:
>Yes, Jacobite shirt - I have also seen it refered to as a ghilie
>shirt, presumably because the opening was laced.

There is a good chance that it is (modernly) called a gillie/ghillie 
shirt (and other spelling variants) because it is (modernly) 
associated with gillies, that is, with (Highland) male servants, 
especially attendants on Highland chiefs, and/or more modernly, 19th 
century and later sportsmen's attendants (for fishing & hunting, 
etc.). See the Dictionary of the Scots Language (DSL, available 
online free at <http://www.dsl.ac.uk/>) entry from the SND s.v. 
GILLIE 
<http://www.dsl.ac.uk/dsl/getent4.php?plen=9304&startset=14404904&query=GILLIE&dtext=snd>

This is the source of the <gillie> in <gillie brogues>, after the 
style shoes worn by such attendants -- so it would not be surprising 
if it were also the source of the <gillie> in <gillie shirt>, 
possibly derived from the style of shirts actually worn by such 
attendants, or, probably more likely, based on more modern 
associations of this style of shirt with such attendants, or at least 
the Romantic past and rustic image often modernly associated with 
such attendants and/or their attire.

Note, btw, that the defining stylistic characteristic of 
gillie/ghillie brogues is not that they are laced, or even the 
decorative pierced patterns in the leather, but the scalloped cut of 
the leather around the eyelets through which the lacing is threaded. 
In contrast, "non-gillie" <day brogues> or <plain brogues>, which are 
also laced and can have the decorative patterns, do not have the 
scalloped cut. (There may be additional terms for specifically 
non-gillie brogues, but I can't figure out what they may be, other 
than simply being called <brogues>. BTW, in addition to the laced 
brogues, there is also the <buckle brogue>. A <brogue> is just a 
heavy men's shoe, which of course can have various styles.)

For examples of day brogues, see
<http://www.kiltmakers.co.uk/catalogue_shoes.htm> (shows both)
<http://66.70.66.18/geomantics/preview/index.cfm?action=product&a=1&b=1&c=3&d=5&g=GAE&s=BR>

For examples of gillie/ghillie brogues, see
<http://www.kiltmakers.co.uk/catalogue_shoes.htm> (shows both)
<http://66.70.66.18/geomantics/preview/index.cfm?action=product&a=1&b=1&c=3&d=4&g=GAE&s=BBP>

The above are, of course, modern shoes, and, for that matter, the 
terms <ghillie brogue> and especially <ghillie shirt> are likewise 
modern. How far back the style of shirt now called <ghillie shirt> 
(or <Jacobean/Jacobite shirt>, etc.) goes, I don't myself know, 
though I would guess at very earliest early modern, and more probably 
later than earlier.

Finally, I should probably comment explicitly that, especially since 
it seems the term <ghillie shirt> was coined relatively recently, it 
is also possible that rather than being named for associations of 
that style of shirt with ghillies (Highland attendants) and/or their 
(historical) image or the like, the term arose among various modern 
people who associate the term <ghillie> in <ghillie brogues> with 
lacing rather than the defining scalloping (nevermind ghillies), and 
so does refer to the lacing. [It's difficult to know for sure without 
finding the earliest uses of the term and knowing more of the context 
and coiners.]

Sharon
-- 
Sharon Krossa, skrossa-ml@MedievalScotland.org
Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language & more:
     Medieval Scotland - http://www.MedievalScotland.org/
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How do I unsubscribe from this list? I have tried all the tricks listed 
on the H-Costume site to no avail.
Joe
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <7847A491-FB1C-11D9-966D-000393B11100@earthlydelights.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Rings
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 15:08:42 +1200
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> I've also been told that you can get them from fishing supply shops.
> Not yet tried going there though.
> Warmest Regards,
> Aylwen Garden

Yep, they are reasonably pricey if you buy them that way though. I was
gifted some by the Lochac Queen a few years ago (SCA Kingdom, Aussie and
NZ.) They were quite rough inside and I have to replace lacing string fairly
frequently.

I bought some from a fishing shop here in Auckland and they are smoothly
finished on the inside.

When you ask at a fishing supply shop ask for solid brass rings. Or brass
rig rings. They some in a variety of shapes and sizes.

Do a google image search for rig rings. You'll find a wide range of places
you can by them online. But it may be easier to ask your local tackle store
to order some in.

http://www.tackleshop.co.uk/ProductDetails/mcs/ProductID/634/GroupID/14/CategoryID/105/v/
These are stainless steel, but basically what you are looking for. I'm
trying to see if there are more on the site.

http://www.fishsa.com/sinkswiv.php
Just some info at the bottom about what they look like and used for.

I love them, and have a goodly number on garb;) I am about to buy some more
(I have to order them) in 3.5mm size and if I buy in bulk I get them for 30c
a piece rtaher than 50c/piece. Brass curtain rings here at the smallest size
(which are too big for several projects) are at least half that price
anyway.

michaela de bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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Would it be the digital.nypl archives?

http://digital.nypl.org/mmpco/index.cfm
http://digital.nypl.org/mmpco/browse.cfm
That's probably the most helpful link to give as their categores are quite
nice to just jump into:
for you, scroll down to costume-1910s

michaela de bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 3:04 AM
Subject: [h-cost] fashion plates website


Argh.  There was a great website with a whole bunch of fashion plates from
lots of different eras, which I have bookmarked.  However, I've got about
102371 sites bookmarked, so I can't find it!  I'm pretty srue it was a
university website, but not positive; whatever it was, it was the website of
some sort of official or semi-official group, rather than an individual.
Any ideas?

-E House
(looking for fashion plates 1915-1920)
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Harry Potter costumes
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I *loved* what the designers came up with for the Quidditch uniforms.
Joannah.

--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

>Well it sort of was on topic with D's robes.
>I have a question. Do the movie costumes match the books' description?

They tried.  But there's only so much you can do with words, a picture 
traditionally being worth a thousand of them.


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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Harry Potter costumes
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I *loved* what the designers came up with for the Quidditch uniforms.
Joannah.

--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

>Well it sort of was on topic with D's robes.
>I have a question. Do the movie costumes match the books' description?

They tried.  But there's only so much you can do with words, a picture 
traditionally being worth a thousand of them.


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I remember that someone on the list made a version of this partlet
(painting: Mrs. Pemberton by Holbein) and posted it to a web page, but
repeated Googling and examination of my bookmarks hasn't found it.

Does anyone have the link?

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.

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At 08:31 AM 7/22/2005, you wrote:
>I hadn't considered the other because it looked too costumish at first 
>glance. Looking again though and the shirts might be ok. Would a 
>highlander find much use for those big, belled sleeves though?  Anything 
>with a Celtic or Irish flavor would be ok too.


Ah, had to relook at the image of #8913 to see what you mean by the 
sleeves. And yes, the outfit in general is rather costumish, especially 
without a decent doublet on, but I think it came out originally sometime 
when Braveheart and Rob Roy were such big movies.

I think they are trying to vaguely imitate the big sleeves of the "Irish" 
leine, which is commonly seen in ren faires today. Although most of the 
leine sleeves are made with the front sewn mostly shut so it acts as a 
carrying bag as well. There are issues and comments and disagreements with 
how big the leine sleeves really should be, but they are popular. I've seen 
one guy pull out an entire silver tea set, with tray (but not liquid), in 
his really huge leine sleeves.

If you wanted to, you could gather the ends of the sleeves into a simple 
cuff instead, and the sleeves would be very puffy. Some people like that look.

Kimiko


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At 08:49 AM 7/22/2005, you wrote:
>It might be this
>http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/costumehistweb/index.html
>
>For ealier plates I have several sites marked on my links page.
>
>Suzi
>
>www.suziclarke.co.uk


Oooooohhh, thanks for sharing that link. I've been wanting to do an 1870s 
bustle gown, but haven't done the research for it yet. I have definitely 
bookmarked that site for later.

Kimiko



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At 02:55 AM 7/21/2005, you wrote:
>http://www.girlgeniusonline.com/ -- The new series starts at the end of 
>issue 13; will be collected in 'graphic novel' format but not individual 
>issues.


Thanks for sharing this. My friends and I were wondering what happened to 
the series.

Kimiko


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At 08:50 AM 7/22/2005, you wrote:
>Try www.livinghistory.com (I think)


Hi Suzi,

Just an fyi, the above link goes to a site that is for sale. Did you mean 
http://www.livinghistory.co.uk/ ??

Kimiko


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At 08:50 AM 7/22/2005, you wrote:
>Try www.livinghistory.com (I think)


Hi Suzi,

Just an fyi, the above link goes to a site that is for sale. Did you mean 
http://www.livinghistory.co.uk/ ??

Oooops, yes - sorry. Did you get my private mail - my system is playing up!

Suzi



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>From: Anne <adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com>
>Given the recent discussion of today's unflattering and sloppy fashions,
>I thought some of you might be interested in this article about the
>subject and its relation to history.
>
>http://encarta.msn.com/encnet/departments/CareerTraining/?article=weirdfashionmain

"...But Manolo Blahnik fans everywhere should note that men were the first 
to wear really pointy shoes.
They were called crackows or poulaines, and their toes were as much as 24 
inches long. Whalebone and stuffing helped them keep their shape, though in 
extreme situations, knee-chains were required. Even commoners wore them, but 
much shorter versions. Also, the men who wore them paired them with snug 
silk, velvet, or leather pantyhose. "

*mutter*

Marc


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IIRC that was Kirrily Robert aka Skud. It was on her elizabethan geek 
website which no longer seems to exists

Sharon

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At 07:37 PM 7/22/2005, you wrote:
<<snipped lots of great info for length>>
>Sharon
>Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language & more:
>     Medieval Scotland - http://www.MedievalScotland.org/


Wow, Sharon, Thanks so much for your insight into gillies, ghillies, and so 
much more. I really appreciate the clarifications, because I was badly 
scratching my head on the terminology.

Kimiko


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Article on Bizarre Fashion Trends
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>*mutter*
>
>Marc

      I was annoyed by the "pantyhose", too.  Also the term 
"petticoat" referred to what we now call a skirt, and later became a 
term more specific for underwear.

      Much of the article was good, but those things really stood out.

      -Carol
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] fashion plates website
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Well now I know where Simplicity got their idea for pattern #5724
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/costumehistweb/index.html
Click on late Victorian. Second picture.

De


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Has anyone ordered from this shoe company before?
http://www.kmgarlick-shoemaker.co.uk/
Thanks, Aylwen Garden

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Original Message:
-----------------
From: Garden garden@earthlydelights.com.au
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 23:47:57 +1000
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] reproduction shoes?


Has anyone ordered from this shoe company before?
http://www.kmgarlick-shoemaker.co.uk/
Thanks, Aylwen Garden

This trader has a great reputation, (and I have met him). He seems very
competent, and well worth contacting, in my opinion. He is regularly
recoomened on British chat sites I use.

Suzi

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Jacobite/Scottish
References: <20050722153122.74694.qmail@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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Sharon L. Krossa <skrossa-ml@medievalscotland.org> wrote
>I'm coming to this discussion late (just having rejoined the list), but 
>on an issue of terminology origin raised...
>
>At 8:31 AM -0700 7/22/05, Kahlara wrote:
>>Yes, Jacobite shirt - I have also seen it refered to as a ghilie
>>shirt, presumably because the opening was laced.
>
>There is a good chance that it is (modernly) called a gillie/ghillie 
>shirt (and other spelling variants) because it is (modernly) associated 
>with gillies, that is, with (Highland) male servants, especially 
>attendants on Highland chiefs, and/or more modernly, 19th century and 
>later sportsmen's attendants (for fishing & hunting, etc.). See the 
>Dictionary of the Scots Language (DSL, available online free at 
><http://www.dsl.ac.uk/>) entry from the SND s.v. GILLIE 
><http://www.dsl.ac.uk/dsl/getent4.php?plen=9304&startset=14404904&query=
>GILLIE&dtext=snd>

<snip>
>The above are, of course, modern shoes, and, for that matter, the terms 
><ghillie brogue> and especially <ghillie shirt> are likewise modern. 
>How far back the style of shirt now called <ghillie shirt> (or 
><Jacobean/Jacobite shirt>, etc.) goes, I don't myself know, though I 
>would guess at very earliest early modern, and more probably later than 
>earlier.
>

Hi Sharon!  Welcome back.

I don't recall the existence of Jacobite style shirts more than about 15 
years ago.  My perception is that they have been developed as people 
started wanting to wear the kilt in a less formal way - before that it 
was all collar and tie, or lace frills.  The Jacobite shirt gives an 
option that's still dressy enough for weddings and parties, but more 
relaxed.

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mrs. Pemberton's partlet?
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> Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 08:55:13 +1000
> From: koid gath <koid.gath@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mrs. Pemberton's partlet?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.0.20050724085223.01d12b78@pop.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> 
> IIRC that was Kirrily Robert aka Skud. It was on her elizabethan geek
> website which no longer seems to exists

Thanks for sending it though - I found a Google cached version of the
page and gave me some ideas :)


> 
> Sharon


Allison T.

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> Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 08:55:13 +1000
> From: koid gath <koid.gath@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mrs. Pemberton's partlet?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.0.20050724085223.01d12b78@pop.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> 
> IIRC that was Kirrily Robert aka Skud. It was on her elizabethan geek
> website which no longer seems to exists

Thanks for sending it though - I found a Google cached version of the
page and gave me some ideas :)


> 
> Sharon


Allison T.

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Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 13:15:26 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: "Sharon L. Krossa" <skrossa-ml@medievalscotland.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Jacobite/Scottish
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At 4:36 PM +0100 7/24/05, Jean Waddie wrote:
>Sharon L. Krossa <skrossa-ml@medievalscotland.org> wrote
>>I'm coming to this discussion late (just having rejoined the list),
>>but on an issue of terminology origin raised...
>>
>>At 8:31 AM -0700 7/22/05, Kahlara wrote:
>>>Yes, Jacobite shirt - I have also seen it refered to as a ghilie
>>>shirt, presumably because the opening was laced.
><snip>
>>The above are, of course, modern shoes, and, for that matter, the
>>terms <ghillie brogue> and especially <ghillie shirt> are likewise
>>modern. How far back the style of shirt now called <ghillie shirt>
>>(or <Jacobean/Jacobite shirt>, etc.) goes, I don't myself know,
>>though I would guess at very earliest early modern, and more
>>probably later than earlier.
>
>Hi Sharon!  Welcome back.

Thanks!

>I don't recall the existence of Jacobite style shirts more than
>about 15 years ago.  My perception is that they have been developed
>as people started wanting to wear the kilt in a less formal way -
>before that it was all collar and tie, or lace frills.  The Jacobite
>shirt gives an option that's still dressy enough for weddings and
>parties, but more relaxed.

I agree that with modern kilt attire it is a relatively recent 
introduction -- in

Thompson, J. Charles . _So You're Going To Wear the Kilt!_. 3d ed., 
rev. Glasgow: Lang Syne Publishers Ltd, 1989. 
<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/185217126X/medievalscotland> 
<http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/185217126X/medievalscotla02>

the author has a drawing on page 64 showing a sleeveless doublet with 
a similar style shirt (only with buttons rather than lacing) and 
legend "b) the peitean is a recent revival, very convenient for hot 
weather. It is often worn with a shirt in Colonial style." My copy of 
the book is the 1989 third revised edition and the first and second 
editions were published in 1979 and 1982, so that dates this style of 
kilt attire as a "recent revival" circa 1979-89 (depending on when it 
was first included in the book).

What I am not clear on is whether it happens to be a shirt style that 
existed earlier outside the context of kilt attire, either as a 
somewhat earlier but still very modernly invented "historical 
costume" style shirt, or even (perhaps coincidentally) as a much 
earlier actual worn by normal people as an everyday style shirt. I 
just don't know enough about 17th, 18th, and early 19th century shirt 
styles to know whether or not anything like it was seen in that 
period.

To partially answer my own question, outside the context of kilt 
attire the very full sleeved, collared, lace up neck opening shirt 
can be dated to at least 1975 in the stage costume of the Corries -- 
see <http://www.corries.com/images/newsclips/news47.gif> -- and it 
might even have worn by them in the 1960s -- see 
<http://www.corries.com/images/newsclips/news4.gif>.

Other places it occurs to me to look for modern (non-kilt attire) 
uses are early or mid-20th century films set in colonial America (cf 
Thompson's "shirt in Colonial style") or set on pirate ships.

But even examples from that context (and I don't know if there 
actually are any) would still leave whether this style was a 20th 
century invention attributed to/associated with earlier centuries, or 
actually the same or similar to something worn in the Colonial era or 
similar period. And that I just don't know (due to my own ignorance 
of the relevant periods) -- but I expect others might...

Sharon
-- 
Sharon Krossa, skrossa-ml@MedievalScotland.org
Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language & more:
     Medieval Scotland - http://www.MedievalScotland.org/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing rings
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Does anyone know the merchant who sold me a supply of small (less than 1/4
> inch)
> but sturdy brass rings (no visible seam)

I sell these rings.  They are 20 for $1.00 and you can buy as many or as
few as you want.

Here is the link:

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/products.php?int_era_id=5&start_count_url=36

....or you can go to my homepage at

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/index.php

and do a search for "lacing rings".  They are about 3/8" in diameter and
very sturdy!

Hope that helps!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fashion plates website
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At 08:53 PM 7/22/2005, you wrote:
>Would it be the digital.nypl archives?
>
>http://digital.nypl.org/mmpco/index.cfm
>http://digital.nypl.org/mmpco/browse.cfm
>That's probably the most helpful link to give as their categores are quite
>nice to just jump into:
>for you, scroll down to costume-1910s
>
>michaela de bruce
>http://costumes.glittersweet.com


Hi Michaela,

Thanks for sharing this link with us.

Depending on time frame, I just want to warn people that the images may not 
be "accurate", as to me, some look rather "Victorian" in styling. I am 
currently looking over the 1500s England to see what they have. Some are 
not in the right time frame (ie images noted as being in the reign of James 
I, which was 1600s). Some are noted on the image as being of a certain 
date, but the style of garment is definitely incorrect for that date. (ie: 
Elizabeth, 1559., IMAGE ID: 811192 ). Most make me want to see the 
original, if there is any. Thankfully, they do have detailed info on where 
the plates originally come from in most cases.

There is one lady holding a handbag! ([Woman in long dress holding a 
handbag]. IMAGE ID: 811216) Oh, I've never seen that style of purse in this 
time period before.

There is one that I have become partial to. Anyone know if there is an 
actual portrait this image may be based on?
(Mary. IMAGE ID: 811214 )

Kimiko


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At 05:04 PM 7/24/2005, you wrote:
>At 08:53 PM 7/22/2005, you wrote:
>>Would it be the digital.nypl archives?
>>
>>http://digital.nypl.org/mmpco/index.cfm
>>http://digital.nypl.org/mmpco/browse.cfm
>>That's probably the most helpful link to give as their categores are quite
>>nice to just jump into:
>>for you, scroll down to costume-1910s
>>
>>michaela de bruce
>>http://costumes.glittersweet.com
>
>
>Hi Michaela,
>
>Thanks for sharing this link with us.
>
>Depending on time frame, I just want to warn people that the images 
>may not be "accurate", as to me, some look rather "Victorian" in 
>styling. I am currently looking over the 1500s England to see what 
>they have. Some are not in the right time frame (ie images noted as 
>being in the reign of James I, which was 1600s). Some are noted on 
>the image as being of a certain date, but the style of garment is 
>definitely incorrect for that date. (ie: Elizabeth, 1559., IMAGE ID: 
>811192 ). Most make me want to see the original, if there is any. 
>Thankfully, they do have detailed info on where the plates 
>originally come from in most cases.
>
>There is one lady holding a handbag! ([Woman in long dress holding a 
>handbag]. IMAGE ID: 811216) Oh, I've never seen that style of purse 
>in this time period before.
>
>There is one that I have become partial to. Anyone know if there is 
>an actual portrait this image may be based on?
>(Mary. IMAGE ID: 811214 )
>
>Kimiko

How did you manage to view the images? Only a few images showed up 
when I went to the folder, unfortunately, none of them were the ones 
you looked at.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Greetings again,

    I'm working on a couple of  gowns and will be needing to write 
something up about how I "would have" dyed them the color they are.  
Since, I am not a dyer (yet). Can someone give me a name of a good book 
on medieval dyes that I may be able to find at my local library?  The 
dye recipes I am looking for are a pink (more of a dusty rose) and a 
bluish violet.

Thanks for any help.

Roscelin

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How do I unsubscribe from this list? I have tried every trick on the 
H-Costume website and none of them work.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric dying
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> Greetings again,
>
>     I'm working on a couple of  gowns and will be needing to write
> something up about how I "would have" dyed them the color they are.
> Since, I am not a dyer (yet). Can someone give me a name of a good book
> on medieval dyes that I may be able to find at my local library?  The
> dye recipes I am looking for are a pink (more of a dusty rose) and a
> bluish violet.

I have done some natural dyeing in the past but I can't remember the books
that I used as reference (my dyeing partner bought and kept the books).

Your best bet may be to start with your library...older books are still
good references and won't cost you anything.  Once you decide to try some
dyeing yourself, you may want to invest in some books because they will
have weights and measures that will help immensely.

And if you want bonus points from the judges, mention how colorfast the
dye is.  You can achieve many colors using all kinds of natural dyestuffs
but many of them will fade either quickly or eventually.

Good luck & sorry I couldn't give you better suggestions!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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At 05:35 PM 7/24/2005, you wrote:
>How do I unsubscribe from this list? I have tried every trick on the 
>H-Costume website and none of them work.
>Joe
>_______________________________________________

There's a "list-unsubscribe" line in the header of each message with 
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Joan Jurancich
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> >http://digital.nypl.org/mmpco/index.cfm
> >http://digital.nypl.org/mmpco/browse.cfm
> >That's probably the most helpful link to give as their categores are
quite
> >nice to just jump into:
> >for you, scroll down to costume-1910s

> Depending on time frame, I just want to warn people that the images may
not
> be "accurate", as to me, some look rather "Victorian" in styling. I am
> currently looking over the 1500s England to see what they have. Some are
> not in the right time frame (ie images noted as being in the reign of
James
> I, which was 1600s).

I'm pretty sure those are from Victorian costumes books, so anythign prior
to the mid 19thC I really would take with a grain of salt. I did notice
quite a few of the German images were from trachtenbuch that can be found
online (Wiegel, Jost Amman...) They were not too bad actually, being based
on woodcuts. The colours were pretty fantastical though;)

> There is one lady holding a handbag! ([Woman in long dress holding a
> handbag]. IMAGE ID: 811216) Oh, I've never seen that style of purse in
this
> time period before.

I'm having major troubles getting the images to load .. Ok got it. This
looks like it could be cobbled from Vicello's book perhaps?

> There is one that I have become partial to. Anyone know if there is an
> actual portrait this image may be based on?
> (Mary. IMAGE ID: 811214 )

It looks a bit like some SPanish or Spanish inspired portraits actually. I
suspect a half or bustlength portrait from which they have extrapolated the
skirt.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: [h-cost] Sleeve question bustle gown
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Hi,

I am making a bustle gown from Truly Victorian patterns.
Everything was going together so smootly that I decided not to try the 
sleeves before making the real sleeves.
Wel, they looked redicilous!
The sleeve is gathered on the top and it looked more like a big sleeve 
from 1891.
When I look at pitures and real garments from the 1870s or 1880's I 
don't see any gathers or just a few.
Am I right on this?

Greetings,
       Deredere

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve question bustle gown
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> I am making a bustle gown from Truly Victorian patterns.
> Everything was going together so smootly that I decided not to try the
> sleeves before making the real sleeves.
> Wel, they looked redicilous!
> The sleeve is gathered on the top and it looked more like a big sleeve
> from 1891.
> When I look at pitures and real garments from the 1870s or 1880's I
> don't see any gathers or just a few.
> Am I right on this?

You are right that they are fitted into the armscye. I know someone else who
had this trouble with the patterns.  The good news is you should be able to
cut them down from the sleeves you are currently making seeing as you in
effect have excess fabric.
You can draft your own sleeve fairly easily, depending on the style you are
after.
http://www.marquise.de/en/1800/index.shtml
If you look at the pattern diagrams here as well as PoF etc you can find a
basic shape to make your own sleeve (if you haven't already:) )

I've even put some test fabric on the ironing board and, standing at the
pointy end, laid my arm on top with my elbow subtly bent to get a
proportioned curve to my sleeve. Of course one needs to add a few inches
either side of the line around the arm... My sleevehead also winds up
deviating no more than 10cm. So the curve of the top part is no more than
5cm tall and the curve of the bottom part is no more than 5cm tall. This
gives a sleeve that can be fitted into a small armscye and still give plenty
of room to move the arm. Well, given a finite value for plenty;)

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 25 06:48:28 2005
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Status: RO

Thanks!
I think I will try to make it as smooth as possible but I don't think I 
will be able to get all the gathers out.
Next time I will make my own sleeve pattern.
It really looks like the sleeve pattern is of the wrong time.
It was also way to short.
The TV patterns are made for very short women.
I made the sleeve 10cm longer and still it ended up being to short.
Luckely I had already decided that I wanted a nice pleated cuff on the end.
And that worked out really well.

Greetings,
       Deredere

>You are right that they are fitted into the armscye. I know someone else who
>had this trouble with the patterns.  The good news is you should be able to
>cut them down from the sleeves you are currently making seeing as you in
>effect have excess fabric.
>You can draft your own sleeve fairly easily, depending on the style you are
>after.
>http://www.marquise.de/en/1800/index.shtml
>If you look at the pattern diagrams here as well as PoF etc you can find a
>basic shape to make your own sleeve (if you haven't already:) )
>
>I've even put some test fabric on the ironing board and, standing at the
>pointy end, laid my arm on top with my elbow subtly bent to get a
>proportioned curve to my sleeve. Of course one needs to add a few inches
>either side of the line around the arm... My sleevehead also winds up
>deviating no more than 10cm. So the curve of the top part is no more than
>5cm tall and the curve of the bottom part is no more than 5cm tall. This
>gives a sleeve that can be fitted into a small armscye and still give plenty
>of room to move the arm. Well, given a finite value for plenty;)
>
>michaela de bruce
>http://glittersweet.com
>
>
>
>  
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fashion plates website
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At 05:11 PM 7/24/2005, you wrote:
>How did you manage to view the images? Only a few images showed up when I 
>went to the folder, unfortunately, none of them were the ones you looked at.
>
>Joan Jurancich


Hi Joan

Lets see... I clicked on the browse button that brought me to this page, 
then clicked on folder titles:
http://digital.nypl.org/mmpco/browse.cfm?trg=folder
I went down the list of titles and found "Costumes - 1500s - English" and 
hit Go.
Then it went to the first of three pages of images, and waited while they 
all loaded in.

I later found that if you went to Search instead of Browse, you can ask for 
each image number if you already know them.
http://digital.nypl.org/mmpco/search.cfm
Chose "Search in image id field" from the first set of drop downs.
Enter the number of the image you want, then press the Search button.
You can also search by other means as well.

hth,
Kimiko

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At 05:31 PM 7/24/2005, you wrote:
>Greetings again,
>
>    I'm working on a couple of  gowns and will be needing to write 
> something up about how I "would have" dyed them the color they are.
>Since, I am not a dyer (yet). Can someone give me a name of a good book on 
>medieval dyes that I may be able to find at my local library?  The dye 
>recipes I am looking for are a pink (more of a dusty rose) and a bluish violet.
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>Roscelin


The one book I've been recommended is:
The Art and Craft of Natural Dyeing: Traditional Recipes for Modern Use 
(Paperback), by J.N. Liles
ISBN: 0870496700

I understand the writer goes over the history of dyes, but he uses modern 
chemistry to help perfect dyeing techniques. I don't know how well it will 
work for your needs, but it may be a start.

Kimiko


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Mystery Designers
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I am still working on my series "Designers of Their Time" series.  I have a few 1896 fashion plates. I can't find information about two of the European designers.  Would you all please check your books and see if you have them listed.  I am trying to find out when they were in business.  Below is the information that I have:

1. Emilia Bossi, Florence, Italy.
Furnishes Their Majesties the Queens of Italy, Servia, and Wurtemburg.
I found a webpage of an exhibit of one gown from 1882.  Nothing else was mentioned.

2. Jules Bister, Berlin.
Furnishes to Her Majesty and the Princess of the Royal and Imperial Family of Germany.

I have searched google and have come up with very little.
 
Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 25 09:52:21 2005
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric dying (fwd)
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Roscelin wrote:

>    I'm working on a couple of gowns and will be needing to write
> something up about how I "would have" dyed them the color they are.
> Since, I am not a dyer (yet). Can someone give me a name of a good
> book on medieval dyes that I may be able to find at my local library?  
> The dye recipes I am looking for are a pink (more of a dusty rose) and
> a bluish violet.

If I understand this, you want to know how these colors would have been
achieved in period, not how you would go about doing it today?  (Are you
writing documentation for arts competition?)

It's pretty likely that if you were wearing these colors in most of the
Middle Ages, you wouldn't have dyed them. You'd have bought the fabric
already dyed by a specialized dyer, or brought undyed wool or woven fabric
to the local dyer. The exact sequences and roles (who dyes, who weaves,
when those steps occur, and when it ends up in the consumer's possession)
would vary from one time to another and one place to another.

If you want to know how the dyer would have achieved the colors, again for
most of the Middle Ages, you're dealing with madder for most red shades
and woad for all blues. Your bluish violet would have been made with some
combination of those two, possibly with overdyeing.

I think madder is the most likely possibility for a household-used dye,
but again, less likely in certain periods and at certain social strata.

Woad dyeing became a highly specialized occupation rather early because it
requires certain facilities and is very unpleasant to be around. The best
book on period woad dyeing I've seen is this "The History of Woad and the
Medieval Woad Vat," a little booklet by John Edmonds that's absolutely
packed iwth information. My copy seems to be buried somewhere, alas:
http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/22249;$7B$7FM$?/Location/Oxbow

There's also the possibility of kermes as a red dye (particularly later in
the period) which was much more expensive than madder; I'm not well-versed
in this and would be glad to be corrected, but all the references I can
think of to kermes-dyed cloth have to do with very expensive imported dyed
cloth, so I suspect this would also have been a specialist occupation, not
something the average medieval household owner would have done on her own.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: reproduction shoes?
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>From: Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
>Has anyone ordered from this shoe company before?
>http://www.kmgarlick-shoemaker.co.uk/
>Thanks, Aylwen Garden

It's hard to tell from the photos, but his stuff looks reasonably well made 
for the cost, and while most of his stuff looks inaccurate from a historical 
perspective, it's at least innocuous.  Actually, some of his 17th century 
stuff looks pretty good.

A major problem with most people doing historical shoes these days is the 
shapes of the lasts.  They tend to use modern lasts, which becomes gradually 
more noticeable the earlier you go.  I don't mean this as a criticism of 
anyone in particular, I'm just frustrated by the situation.

Marc


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>From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
>       I was annoyed by the "pantyhose", too.  Also the term
>"petticoat" referred to what we now call a skirt, and later became a
>term more specific for underwear.
>       Much of the article was good, but those things really stood out.

I have a knee-kerk response to that whole "chained to the knee" thing, 
although to be fair the author did at least indicate that it wasn't how most 
people wore their shoes.

Marc


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fashion plates website
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At 09:55 PM 7/24/2005, you wrote:
>At 05:11 PM 7/24/2005, you wrote:
>>How did you manage to view the images? Only a few images showed up 
>>when I went to the folder, unfortunately, none of them were the 
>>ones you looked at.
>>
>>Joan Jurancich
>
>
>Hi Joan
>
>Lets see... I clicked on the browse button that brought me to this 
>page, then clicked on folder titles:
>http://digital.nypl.org/mmpco/browse.cfm?trg=folder
>I went down the list of titles and found "Costumes - 1500s - 
>English" and hit Go.
>Then it went to the first of three pages of images, and waited while 
>they all loaded in.
>
>I later found that if you went to Search instead of Browse, you can 
>ask for each image number if you already know them.
>http://digital.nypl.org/mmpco/search.cfm
>Chose "Search in image id field" from the first set of drop downs.
>Enter the number of the image you want, then press the Search button.
>You can also search by other means as well.
>
>hth,
>Kimiko

Basically, that's what I did.  But only one or two (or sometimes no) 
pictures loaded on any one page; I tried several pages with similar 
results. I have cable internet, so speed is not the problem (and I 
walked away and left it to load for several minutes, just in 
case).  When I used the search function as you described, I still did 
not get an image.  Since I did occasionally get an image, just not 
the ones I wanted:-(, I assume that my security settings and pop-up 
blocking are not the problem.  Bummer, I wanted to get a look at 
these.  But from the ones that do load (a tiny percentage) and from 
the bibliographic information provided, I would expect nearly all of 
them for earlier periods to be 18th or 19th century illustrations, 
and for our purposes, we would need to remember all the caveats about 
artistic license.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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I'm looking into squeezing in a day in London on our holiday next 
spring, and was wondering what's the best place to go spend half a day 
looking at costume and clothing related items? I'll probably only really 
have time to spend at one location, so I want to make it a good one, 
unless there are  two quite close to each other. Tower of London? V&A? 
Portrait Gallery? Any suggestions?


I'm also looking for a budget-oriented place to sleep, as the flight I 
am planning arrives at Midnight local time and we'll be knackered. 
Someplace quiet, clean and comfortable is all we need. We won't be in it 
long enough to want much more than a bed and plumbing.



Dawn

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  "NASA's Centennial Challenges program has announced its latest prize
contest, the Astronaut Glove Challenge. The competition, a
collaboration between NASA and the non-profit Volanz Aerospace, will be
held in late 2006 and will award $250K to the team which produces the
best-performing glove within contest parameters. The basic idea was
originally proposed last year on Rand Simberg's Transterrestrial
Musings blog to improve on current gloves, which have difficulties with
remaining flexible while maintaining constant internal pressure in the
vacuum of space. Previously-announced competitions include prizes for
superstrong tethers, beaming power, and extracting oxygen from lunar
regolith. These prizes are intended to lay the groundwork for larger
competitions to further NASA's Vision for Space Exploration, possibly
including 'an eight-figure prize for the first privately developed
robotic moon lander.'"

http://www.astronaut-glove.us/



Dawn


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Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 08:16:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric dying (fwd)
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> It's pretty likely that if you were wearing these colors in most of the
> Middle Ages, you wouldn't have dyed them. You'd have bought the fabric
> already dyed by a specialized dyer, or brought undyed wool or woven fabric
> to the local dyer. The exact sequences and roles (who dyes, who weaves,
> when those steps occur, and when it ends up in the consumer's possession)
> would vary from one time to another and one place to another.

I absolutely agree with Robin here.  Some people did do their own dyeing
at home.  In general, however, the fabric was generally bought already
dyed.

> If you want to know how the dyer would have achieved the colors, again for
> most of the Middle Ages, you're dealing with madder for most red shades
> and woad for all blues. Your bluish violet would have been made with some
> combination of those two, possibly with overdyeing.

Except that madder gives a more orange-red in various shades.  And
bluish-violet, depending on the actual shade, could be achieved by other
dyestuffs...logwood being one of them.  But I don't know when logwood came
to be used as a dye so the time frame you are talking about is important.

Dyeing in period is a fascinating subject and if you love chemistry and
doing experiments, natural dyeing is a lot of fun.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 08:21:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Suggestions for London
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> I'm looking into squeezing in a day in London on our holiday next
> spring, and was wondering what's the best place to go spend half a day
> looking at costume and clothing related items? I'll probably only really
> have time to spend at one location, so I want to make it a good one,
> unless there are  two quite close to each other. Tower of London? V&A?
> Portrait Gallery? Any suggestions?

Wow, how to choose?!  The V & A costume collection is quite awesome.  So
if you want to see actual clothing, that is the place.

I also really enjoyed the National Portrait Gallery.  Seeing the paintings
of the Tudors and whatnot that you have only seen in books before is quite
an experience.  And you discover new things by being able to stick your
nose right up to them.  For example, I never realized that the embroidery
on Mary Tudor's dress was redwork!

For budget places to sleep, I used the Rick Steve's travel book.  He had a
series on public television called Travels in Europe that was great.  He
tells you interesting, off the path places to go and gives ideas on good
budget place to sleep that aren't dumps.

Have fun!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Suggestions for London
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 17:23:30 +0200
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Hi Dawn,
If you only want to go into 1 part of London, i definately would choose V&A. 
There is so much to see here, that you will have to forse yourself to 
deside. And it is near the big ware houses. Berwick street is not that far 
away, here you could go looking for nice silk fabrics.
But i am not sure of they have made the costume exhibition again. Last i was 
there, it was removed and only few items was exhibited in the big time 
period exhibitions.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 5:09 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Suggestions for London


> I'm looking into squeezing in a day in London on our holiday next spring, 
> and was wondering what's the best place to go spend half a day looking at 
> costume and clothing related items? I'll probably only really have time to 
> spend at one location, so I want to make it a good one, unless there are 
> two quite close to each other. Tower of London? V&A? Portrait Gallery? Any 
> suggestions?
>
>
> I'm also looking for a budget-oriented place to sleep, as the flight I am 
> planning arrives at Midnight local time and we'll be knackered. Someplace 
> quiet, clean and comfortable is all we need. We won't be in it long enough 
> to want much more than a bed and plumbing.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 10:09:15 -0500 Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> writes:
> I'm looking into squeezing in a day in London on our holiday next 
> spring, and was wondering what's the best place to go spend half a 
> day  looking at costume and clothing related items? I'll probably only 
> really have time to spend at one location, so I want to make it a good
one, 
>  unless there are  two quite close to each other. Tower of London? 
> V&A? Portrait Gallery? Any suggestions?

For costume related stuff in one location, you can't beat the V&A. That
should absolutely be your first choice. The other ones are great too, but
you won't get much costume stuff at the Tower. The National Portrait
Gallery is nice, but generally the subject is more important than their
clothing so it's not really great for costume stuff. The Elizabethan and
Tudor gallery is really nice, but you can easily see it in less than an
hour and it's mostly stuff that you see all the time in books- there's a
kick to seeing the portraits in person, but you won't see anything you
haven't seen before. London is chock full of great museums and places to
visit, but for many of them the costume content is minimal. One of my
personal favs is Hampton Court Palace but you can spend a full day there
without even trying and the costume content is scattered. With the V&A
you get a good costume collection, as well as a needlework/textiles
gallery where you can get within an inch of the items and a jewelry
gallery that has a fantastic collection of jewels from the Renaissance
on. 



just my tuppence,

Karen
Seamstrix




> 
> 
> I'm also looking for a budget-oriented place to sleep, as the flight 
> I 
> am planning arrives at Midnight local time and we'll be knackered. 
> Someplace quiet, clean and comfortable is all we need. We won't be 
> in it 
> long enough to want much more than a bed and plumbing.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 10:09:15 -0500 Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> writes:
> I'm looking into squeezing in a day in London on our holiday next 
> spring, and was wondering what's the best place to go spend half a 
> day  looking at costume and clothing related items? I'll probably only 
> really have time to spend at one location, so I want to make it a good
one, 
>  unless there are  two quite close to each other. Tower of London? 
> V&A? Portrait Gallery? Any suggestions?

For costume related stuff in one location, you can't beat the V&A. That
should absolutely be your first choice. The other ones are great too, but
you won't get much costume stuff at the Tower. The National Portrait
Gallery is nice, but generally the subject is more important than their
clothing so it's not really great for costume stuff. The Elizabethan and
Tudor gallery is really nice, but you can easily see it in less than an
hour and it's mostly stuff that you see all the time in books- there's a
kick to seeing the portraits in person, but you won't see anything you
haven't seen before. London is chock full of great museums and places to
visit, but for many of them the costume content is minimal. One of my
personal favs is Hampton Court Palace but you can spend a full day there
without even trying and the costume content is scattered. With the V&A
you get a good costume collection, as well as a needlework/textiles
gallery where you can get within an inch of the items and a jewelry
gallery that has a fantastic collection of jewels from the Renaissance
on. 


What is your "period"? I believe the V and A have reopened the Costume
Court, but the last time I was there they had closed everything before
about 1800! So do check before arriving. My fvourite is the Museum of
London (I am a volunteer there so I admit I am biased.) It is a small
museum, but they have a nice display of 18thC printed cotton gowns and
banyans, and a time line from 1800, both men and women. Some of Queen
Victoria's parliamentary robes (replica petticoat by me!) and some late
Victorian clothes in another case. There is a lovely "shop window" display
of 18th century clothing too, both real and replica. And there is the
Cheapside hoard, a wonderful collection of early 17th century jewellery,
and two gable headdress frames, and purses and belts from medieval. (And
you can get round it in half a day! - the V and A is huge!)

Suzi

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One of my long term projects is back tracking sources, and seeing who was 
using what when writing costume (and specifically shoe) related texts.  This 
week I finally got a hold of a copy of Strutt's _A complete view of the 
dress and habits of the people of England_ (1796) [there is a 1970 reprint], 
and have to say that from a historiographical perspective it's fascinating.  
I find it really interesting how little the known and accepted 'facts' have 
changed since the 18th century, and where they -have-.   If you are 
interested in (mostly English) historical costume, you might want to find a 
copy of this -- not to use as a guide mind you, but to see where things have 
come from.  And it's possible to find tiny nuggets that have been dropped 
out of later repetitions.

As a note for further information back-tracking shoe stuff, I recently 
managed to get a copy of the C. Roach Smith collection catalog (1854), which 
has some interesting drawings of medieval shoe parts (including one, the 
long toe of a poulaine, that has been reprinted in a variety of later works 
- most of which describe it as armor.

Marc


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Strutt
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On Mon, 25 Jul 2005, Marc Carlson wrote:

> One of my long term projects is back tracking sources, and seeing who
> was using what when writing costume (and specifically shoe) related
> texts.  This week I finally got a hold of a copy of Strutt's _A
> complete view of the dress and habits of the people of England_ (1796)
> [there is a 1970 reprint], and have to say that from a
> historiographical perspective it's fascinating.  I find it really
> interesting how little the known and accepted 'facts' have changed
> since the 18th century, and where they -have-.  If you are interested
> in (mostly English) historical costume, you might want to find a copy
> of this -- not to use as a guide mind you, but to see where things
> have come from.

Tracking back is one of my longtime recurring themes in my work as well,
and when you track back costume in English, you always come back to Joseph
Strutt. He was a fascinating figure as a researcher, too, being mostly a
dedicated amateur (in the traditional sense of the word) and antiquarian,
as well as a professional engraver and artist. He wrote his first book (on
medieval English antiquities) when he was only 24 years old. I spend a lot
of time talking about Strutt and his influence (which was enormous, and
continues today) in my lecture on the origins of costume sources, which
some of you have heard.

Strutt essentially invented the field of English costume history, so many
of the longstanding assumptions of the field originate with him. In fact,
sometime he got things right that got twisted or confused with later
scholars -- most notably James Robinson Planche, who edited Strutt's work
into a "new and improved" edition in the 1840s (after publishing his own
costume history in 1834). A lot of Planche's emendations were wrong; it's
interesting to compare his version with Strutt's original 1796 edition.
The latter is available for view in quite a few rare book rooms. It's
worth the perusal.

I don't recall seeing the 1970 reprint of Strutt; Marc, is it of Strutt's
original, or Planche's edited version? An affordable facsimile of the
original Strutt would be a lovely thing to have.

Drea has an original edition of Strutt, of which I am very jealous.

--Robin


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(snip)
> I don't recall seeing the 1970 reprint of Strutt; Marc, is it of Strutt's
> original, or Planche's edited version? An affordable facsimile of the
> original Strutt would be a lovely thing to have.
>
> Drea has an original edition of Strutt, of which I am very jealous.
>
> --Robin

If you happen to have an extra $600 laying around...

http://dogbert.abebooks.com/abe/BookDetailsPL?bi=376521152

The 1970 reprint is of the 1842 edition, sadly, and itself is going for 
around $125.

Melusine 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric dying
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 16:44:37 +0000
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Roscelin wrote:
 Can someone give me a name of a good book 
> on medieval dyes that I may be able to find at my local library? The 
> dye recipes I am looking for are a pink (more of a dusty rose) and a 
> bluish violet. 

Depending on what time period you are researching, two sources that I found very useful when I was researching what dyes would have been used to achieve specific colors for a 14th century Florentine dress are:

Brunello, F. _The Art of Dyeing In The History of Mankind.  Vicenza : Neri Pozza Editore, 1973.

The Plictho: Instructions in the Art of the Dyers Which Teaches the Dyeing of Woolen Cloths, Linens, Cottons, and Silk by the Great Art as Well as by the Common; Translation of the First Edition of 1548 by Sidney M. Edelstein and Hector C. Borghetty.  Cambridge, MA: The M.I.T. Press, (1969).

You may also want to look at these sources:

The Red Dyes: Cochineal, Madder, and Murex Purple A World Tour of Textile Techniques by Gosta Sandberg.  Hardcover, ISBN: 1887374175
Publisher: Sterling Pub Co Inc, 1997

Madder Red: A History of Luxury and Trade Plant Dyes and Pigments in World Commerce and Art by Robert Chenciner   Hardcover, ISBN: 0700712593
Publisher: Routledge

I haven't used the last two, so I can't vouch for the contents.

Good luck!

Colleen
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Hello all,

yesterday i got a movie out from the Library and was wondering on you 
all's reaction /memory of it.  I was not particularly impressed, but 
then, i was watching WHILE sewing so, i was not paying as much attention 
to the movie as i could have. 

The movie was LUTHER  ( http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0309820/  ) The 
movie was not in itself very impressive.  i thought the acting was ok, 
but there was no attempt to go in depth so it just seemed like people 
walking on stage, then walking off stage, and i did not get much of a 
feeling of a story from the movie.

The costumes were also not too impressive.  most looked right, but it 
just did not click ion my brain and give me the feeling of clothes for 
many of the people.  Like Emperor Charles V's costume was gorgeous, but 
it looked like he was wearing a costume, not clothes. 

What did others think?


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From: ladysarafina@att.net (Sarafina Sinclair)
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Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 18:25:48 +0000
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Can anyone point me in the direction of where to find more paintings like Hoefnagel's "Panorama of English Society" more commonly known as A Wedding at Bermondsey?

Thanks!!

Sarafina
--
The Honourable Lady Sarafina Sinclair, CE 
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net 
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> The movie was LUTHER  ( http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0309820/  ) The
> movie was not in itself very impressive.  i thought the acting was ok,
> but there was no attempt to go in depth so it just seemed like people
> walking on stage, then walking off stage, and i did not get much of a
> feeling of a story from the movie.
>
> The costumes were also not too impressive.  most looked right, but it
> just did not click ion my brain and give me the feeling of clothes for
> many of the people.  Like Emperor Charles V's costume was gorgeous, but
> it looked like he was wearing a costume, not clothes.

I pretty much agree with you.  Unfortunately, I bought this one sight
unseen.  It did make me find out more about Luther because I was
interested in how accurate it was.  But they do have a disclaimer at the
beginning that it was partially funded by the Lutheran church.  So I am
sure it wasn't as accurate or well done as it could have been.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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>Can anyone point me in the direction of where to find more paintings like 
>Hoefnagel's "Panorama of English Society" more commonly known as A Wedding 
>at Bermondsey?

Wouldn't it be nice if there were more of these.  Oh well.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Well, rats.  As mentioned, this is a reprint of the 1842 edition, which 
means that the quest continues.

Robin, just out of curiousity, what sorts of changes did Planche make?

Marc


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> 
> What is your "period"? I believe the V and A have reopened the Costume
> Court, but the last time I was there they had closed everything before
> about 1800! So do check before arriving. 

I'll look at anything from medieval up to about 1800, but renaissance is 
really interesting to me right now...

And you're right, sigh. The website says the Renaissance amd late 
medieval rooms are closed until next July. How disapointing.



Dawn


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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costum Movies
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Being rather interested in the Reformation, I thought the movie did a great
job of laying out Luther's role and how everything happened in the two hours
allotted to feature films. My own costuming experience is later (1570-1600),
but things looked pretty darn good to me. I really liked it a lot.


*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of J Schueller
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 12:40 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Costum Movies

Hello all,

yesterday i got a movie out from the Library and was wondering on you all's
reaction /memory of it.  I was not particularly impressed, but then, i was
watching WHILE sewing so, i was not paying as much attention to the movie as
i could have. 

The movie was LUTHER  ( http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0309820/  ) The movie
was not in itself very impressive.  i thought the acting was ok, but there
was no attempt to go in depth so it just seemed like people walking on
stage, then walking off stage, and i did not get much of a feeling of a
story from the movie.

The costumes were also not too impressive.  most looked right, but it just
did not click ion my brain and give me the feeling of clothes for many of
the people.  Like Emperor Charles V's costume was gorgeous, but it looked
like he was wearing a costume, not clothes. 

What did others think?


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Hi Marc,

Can you give a quick and dirty comparison of modern and historical 
lasts?  I assume it has to do with the left/rightness of the lasts.

Thanks!
Althea

On Monday, July 25, 2005, at 07:03 AM, Marc Carlson wrote:
>
>
> A major problem with most people doing historical shoes these days is 
> the shapes of the lasts.  They tend to use modern lasts, which becomes 
> gradually more noticeable the earlier you go.  I don't mean this as a 
> criticism of anyone in particular, I'm just frustrated by the 
> situation.
>
> Marc
>

> Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Bustle pictures
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Mmmm... I feel a bit like a Nanny or a school teacher...
It looks a stif.
Probably just a bit to simple for my taste.

http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html

There is still a lot of work to do on the bodice to get it right.
Have to take out the sleeves again since they are stil not looking right.
And it looks like I have huge shoulder muscles :-) .

I am planning on making a nice little straw hat to make the look complete.

Greetings,
       Deredere





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NESAT 7 was delivered today (in Arkansas) from David Brown. I have not had 
a chance to do more than skim, but there are several fascinating articles 
in it!

Beth

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Kimiko said:
>I am all to aware of how heavy metal jewelry will be for the hats, which is
something I am very worried about. If only it could look like gold, feel
like gold, but weigh as light as a feather.

>I do want a good reproduction of the jewelry that I intend on wearing, but
for the hat I may have to go with something lighter, even if it isn't quite
portrait perfect.

Why would you want it to be light as a feather?!  Everyone knows is
*isnt* real if it doesnt have heft.

I've just returned from Italy (poor me) and found a lovely repro
jewelry shop in Florence.  Tharros Jewelry.  The website is, as yet,
non-existant. Tho they say "coming soon". All of the pieces are copied
from local paintings & frescoes. (You know, places like the Galleria
Accademia, The Pitti Palace, Uffizi and those wonderful Ghirlandaio
frescoes in every church all over town.) Dee-lish!

I've uploaded a few photos onto
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hysteria95126/my_photos
Choose the Florence Jewelry Thassos (I spelled it wrong when I made
the folder) to see the pictures.
All of the jewelry is 925 silver w gold wash and real, but minor
gemstones: amythest, citrine, tourmaline, amber, garnet & others.  No
rubies, emerald diamond or pearl.  The "pearls" are priced like
Swarovski crystals, rather than the real thing.
The last photo is me on the "softphone" talking to friends in Calif. 
They bought a few things & so did I.

Enjoy dreaming!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Overall, it looks really nice! Can't wait to see it with all the extra bits too!

Karen
Seamstrix

-- Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
Mmmm... I feel a bit like a Nanny or a school teacher...
It looks a stif.
Probably just a bit to simple for my taste.

http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html

There is still a lot of work to do on the bodice to get it right.
Have to take out the sleeves again since they are stil not looking right.
And it looks like I have huge shoulder muscles :-) .

I am planning on making a nice little straw hat to make the look complete.

Greetings,
       Deredere





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At 02:29 PM 7/25/2005, you wrote:
>Kimiko said:
> >I am all to aware of how heavy metal jewelry will be for the hats, which is
>something I am very worried about. If only it could look like gold, feel
>like gold, but weigh as light as a feather.
>
> >I do want a good reproduction of the jewelry that I intend on wearing, but
>for the hat I may have to go with something lighter, even if it isn't quite
>portrait perfect.
>
>Why would you want it to be light as a feather?!  Everyone knows is
>*isnt* real if it doesnt have heft.
>
>I've just returned from Italy (poor me) and found a lovely repro
>jewelry shop in Florence.  Tharros Jewelry.  The website is, as yet,
>non-existant. Tho they say "coming soon". All of the pieces are copied
>from local paintings & frescoes. (You know, places like the Galleria
>Accademia, The Pitti Palace, Uffizi and those wonderful Ghirlandaio
>frescoes in every church all over town.) Dee-lish!
>
>I've uploaded a few photos onto
>http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hysteria95126/my_photos
>Choose the Florence Jewelry Thassos (I spelled it wrong when I made
>the folder) to see the pictures.
>All of the jewelry is 925 silver w gold wash and real, but minor
>gemstones: amythest, citrine, tourmaline, amber, garnet & others.  No
>rubies, emerald diamond or pearl.  The "pearls" are priced like
>Swarovski crystals, rather than the real thing.
>The last photo is me on the "softphone" talking to friends in Calif.
>They bought a few things & so did I.
>
>Enjoy dreaming!
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com

Lovely jewelry!  I hope they get that web site up soon...

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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> 
> What is your "period"? I believe the V and A have reopened the Costume
> Court, but the last time I was there they had closed everything before
> about 1800! So do check before arriving. 

I'll look at anything from medieval up to about 1800, but renaissance is 
really interesting to me right now...

And you're right, sigh. The website says the Renaissance amd late 
medieval rooms are closed until next July. How disapointing.

Then give the Museum of London a try - they have some lovely costume
related artifacts, and as I said before, are much more time friendly.

Suzi

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Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 15:47:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve question bustle gown
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi, 
I live in the USA, about 1 county over from where
"Heather" the woman who owns "Truly Victorian" lives,
I have meet and talked to Heather at Victorian 12th
night celebrations and Victorian Faires, and can vouch
that she is not short, I'm 5 ft tall and she towers
over me a good foot and a half. 
She wears her creations at the faires and events too.
 I haven't been able to access my sewing room as it 
has become a temp-y storage area during house
renovations
,but I do have her Polanaise pattern waitng for me,
are there any "adjust for height/length here" lines on
the patterns? I can't get tomine to check.....
 Her web site has an area for questions and help with
the patterns, heck she even offered to have people
come to her house to get help with the fitting.
I'm sure any problem you encountered with the patterns
she would be happy to help with, she likes feed back
on the designs.
 Melody

--- Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:

> snip......
> It was also way to short.
> The TV patterns are made for very short women.
> I made the sleeve 10cm longer and still it ended up
> being to short.
> 
> snip
> Greetings,
>        Deredere
> 
> >You are right that they are fitted into the
> armscye. I know someone else who
> >had this trouble with the patterns.  
> >
>  >michaela de bruce
> >http://glittersweet.com
> >




		
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From: Karinne Taylor <karinne.taylor@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Paintings of Elizabethan era common folk
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I'm not familiar with Hoefnagel's "Panorama of English Society",
however Jane Stockton has reproduced the images from the Civitates
Orbis Terrarum, published in 1572. You can find the images here:

http://needleprayse.webcon.net.au/research/middle_class_elizabethan_clothing.html

I hope this helps, Karinne

On 7/26/05, Sarafina Sinclair <ladysarafina@att.net> wrote:
> Can anyone point me in the direction of where to find more paintings like Hoefnagel's "Panorama of English Society" more commonly known as A Wedding at Bermondsey?

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From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bustle pictures
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Hmm, nice look and great use of detailing on the corset (but lace tighter, 
tighter, I say, bwa-ha-haa!)

By the way, the first bustle I ever made, I realised I could lay on its side to 
look like the Dr Smith Android Machine.

It is hard to see where the problem with the sleeves is from the pics but, 
perhaps, some simple rotation will cure the problem,

-C.


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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric dying (fwd)
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At 08:16 AM 7/25/2005, you wrote:
>But I don't know when logwood came
>to be used as a dye so the time frame you are talking about is important.


I was talking to a friend of mine about blue dyes, as I watched Troy and 
just fell in love with the bright blues they used. Unfortunately, I've yet 
to find out if that blue they used was a natural dye, or like most movie 
costumes, modern cobalt blue dye.

Anyways, my friend sent me a number of links on dyeing, mostly about blue 
or purpura dyes. Here is one of the links he sent that has a timeline of 
when dyes were used by what countries. It's actually a quilter's site.

IMPORTANT DATES IN FABRIC HISTORY
http://threadsintyme.tripod.com/id63.htm

Here's the pertinent text on logwood:
1614  "Logwood" is developed from (species Haematoxylon campechianum), tree 
of the pea family (Fabaceae), native to Central America and the West 
Indies. The name is sometimes applied also to Condalia obovata, a tree of 
the buckthorn family (Rhamnaceae) native to southwestern North America. H. 
campechianum grows 9-15 m (30-50 feet) tall and has a short, crooked trunk. 
The leaves are pinnately compound (feather-formed), with rather oval 
leaflets. The small yellow flowers grow in a cluster from the leaf axil 
(upper angle between branch and leaf stem). The wood is heavy and extremely 
hard. A black dye, also called logwood, is obtained from the heartwood.

I see from this listing that Brazilwood is available earlier:
1321  The East Indies and India export Brazilwood. Later Brazilwood becomes 
a source of dye for textiles.  Brazilwood is a dense, compact dye wood from 
any of various tropical trees whose extracts yield bright crimson and deep 
purple colors.
In ancient and medieval times, the brazilwood imported to Europe from the 
Middle East was Caesalpinia braziliensis )  and other species of 
Caesalpinia. Caesalpinia echinata (called pau-brasil in Portuguese) is 
indigenous to the Brazilian coast and played a role in the naming of that 
country.

I only wish the site gave citation to where this timeline came from. But it 
is very interesting to read.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Repro medieval & renn jewelry -- from Italy
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At 02:29 PM 7/25/2005, you wrote:
>Why would you want it to be light as a feather?!  Everyone knows is
>*isnt* real if it doesnt have heft.
>
>I've just returned from Italy (poor me) and found a lovely repro
>jewelry shop in Florence.  Tharros Jewelry.  The website is, as yet,
>non-existant. Tho they say "coming soon". All of the pieces are copied
>from local paintings & frescoes. (You know, places like the Galleria
>Accademia, The Pitti Palace, Uffizi and those wonderful Ghirlandaio
>frescoes in every church all over town.) Dee-lish!
<<snipped great content and link>>



Hello Cynthia,

Thanks so much for sharing those pics. I just drooled all over my keyboard. 
I have got to tour Europe sometime soon!! (and hope they get that website 
up soon in the meantime). Yep, I've never been to Europe. Been to Japan, 
and Mexico once, and toured all the USA when I was a baby, and that's it.

I know real jewels have to have some weight to them. It's why so many of 
the modern repros just don't have that rich, expensive look to them, 
because they are made of flat brass bits (which is pretty, but doesn't look 
right). The reason why I wanted the jewels to be lighter was because I 
thought actual metal jewels would put a huge strain on the French hood I am 
making. However, I have come up with a theory that I am working on 
verifying that might help the F-hood to hold up to the strain of gold and 
jewels all over the top. I will share more when I get the darn hood done! 
(my fingers don't like the hand sewing of a curved object).

Thanks again. I am going back to drooling again.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Paintings of Elizabethan era common folk
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At 03:47 PM 7/25/2005, you wrote:
>I'm not familiar with Hoefnagel's "Panorama of English Society",
>however Jane Stockton has reproduced the images from the Civitates
>Orbis Terrarum, published in 1572. You can find the images here:
>
>http://needleprayse.webcon.net.au/research/middle_class_elizabethan_clothing.html
>
>I hope this helps, Karinne


Thank you Karinne for sharing that link. I've been wanting some images to 
share with a friend who is doing "middle class" research for his next garb.

Kimiko


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Mon, 25 Jul 2005, Marc Carlson wrote:

> Robin, just out of curiousity, what sorts of changes did Planche make?

Oh, you would ask! It's been ten years since I've compared them, and it
was at a time when I was looking at a *lot* of books from that period, so
I don't trust my memory. I think mostly it was footnotes commenting on
Strutt's text, and also IIRC the pictures are smaller and not colored. I
don't know if they were re-engraved (which could mean serious differences
in the visual details); I'd have to compare them to remind myself.
Strutt's original pictures were one to a page in a nice spacious layout,
and hand-colored.

I just dug out a Xerox of Planche's introduction to his edition. He says
that he corrected things like dates on artworks, manuscript numbers,
verses and line numbers on quotations, and such. I'm sure he did catch
some errors by Strutt, but given the number of errors I've found in
Planche's own work, I'd frankly want to doublecheck everything back to the
source rather than trust anything he had his hands on.

Planche marks his footnotes in brackets, but I would not put it past him
to have made subtle changes to the text as well. He occasionally "fixed
up" sources in some of his other work. Strutt, by contrast, placed a
higher value on faithful reproduction; his errors tend to be those of
misinterpretation, not intentional adjustment.

Planche literally calls his revision of Strutt the "New and Improved
Edition." Tee hee.

--Robin

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nesat 7
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On Monday 25 July 2005 5:03 pm, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> NESAT 7 was delivered today (in Arkansas) from David Brown. I have not had
> a chance to do more than skim, but there are several fascinating articles
> in it!

I got mine this past Tuesday (Pennsylvania) and my copy of NESAT 8, finally, 
on Saturday.  Both have some very interesting articles, though NESAT 8 in 
particularl is really making me think about learning German.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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I'd suggest either just do the V&A (can't go wrong with that place!), or 
go to the National Gallery, which is right near the National Portrait 
Gallery, so you could do both galleries.
--Sue, who hasn't been there in 3 years, and is rapidly getting a 
serious jones to go back....

Dawn wrote:

> I'm looking into squeezing in a day in London on our holiday next 
> spring, and was wondering what's the best place to go spend half a day 
> looking at costume and clothing related items? I'll probably only really 
> have time to spend at one location, so I want to make it a good one, 
> unless there are  two quite close to each other. Tower of London? V&A? 
> Portrait Gallery? Any suggestions?

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Subject: [h-cost] Byzantium women's clothing
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Hi,

I'm helping a friend research women's apparel in 14th
C. Byzantium.  Anything not ecclesiastical or for a
coronation would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Lynda
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On Mon, 25 Jul 2005, Lynda Boots wrote:

> I'm helping a friend research women's apparel in 14th
> C. Byzantium.  Anything not ecclesiastical or for a
> coronation would be appreciated.

May I ask why?  IIRC, that is a _very_ depressing part of
Byzantine history.

Glenn McDavid
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gmcdavid@winternet.com
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From: Pam Dotson <dotsontwo@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Suggestions for London
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I second the vote for the V & A.  It is to die for.  And don't just hit the costume rooms...the British Galleries also have a lot of costumes, and some of my favorite items.

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:I'm looking into squeezing in a day in London on our holiday next 
spring, and was wondering what's the best place to go spend half a day 
looking at costume and clothing related items? I'll probably only really 
have time to spend at one location, so I want to make it a good one, 
unless there are two quite close to each other. Tower of London? V&A? 
Portrait Gallery? Any suggestions?


I'm also looking for a budget-oriented place to sleep, as the flight I 
am planning arrives at Midnight local time and we'll be knackered. 
Someplace quiet, clean and comfortable is all we need. We won't be in it 
long enough to want much more than a bed and plumbing.



Dawn

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Hi Dawn.
Go to the V&A especially if you are interested in textiles and period embroidery. They have a study collection that can be seen at really close hold, behind glass. Unfortunately their elizabethan part of the main exhibition is closed at the moment, will probably be open again when you get there. 
 
If you are females only you can get a room at Queen Alexandra's house for 25£ a night, breakfast included. It is a college dorm room, with toilets in the hallway, but cheap and nice, and 10 minutes walk from the V&A ;-) Right next to the Royal Albert Hall.
 
Hope you have a nice trip. Just came back from a week there friday.
 
Tania

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
I'm looking into squeezing in a day in London on our holiday next 
spring, and was wondering what's the best place to go spend half a day 
looking at costume and clothing related items? I'll probably only really 
have time to spend at one location, so I want to make it a good one, 
unless there are two quite close to each other. Tower of London? V&A? 
Portrait Gallery? Any suggestions?


I'm also looking for a budget-oriented place to sleep, as the flight I 
am planning arrives at Midnight local time and we'll be knackered. 
Someplace quiet, clean and comfortable is all we need. We won't be in it 
long enough to want much more than a bed and plumbing.



Dawn

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I have a suggestion for those wanting to go to London.  I am on United 
Airlines frequent flyer email list.  During Feb. & Mar. 2005 flights to 
London went for around $200 ISD (roundtrip) from Dulles airport in DC. At 
one point, the price dropped to $175.   I saw flights from Chicago to London 
for just a little bit more. The catch is that you have to purchase the 
ticket within the week of the offer, and you can travel anytime for a month 
and stay up to a month.  United is also affiliated with British Midway 
(BMI).  So the flights may be on that airline instead of United.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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The jewelry collection of the V&A or London Gallery is also something to 
behold. I can't remember which one museum has the collection.  The diamonds, 
emeralds, and rubies are stunning!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve question bustle gown
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There are lines to adjust the length on the skirt patterns.
Not on the bodice pattern.
I lengthed the skirt by 6" en my hem is 1" deep.
And I am 1m 78cm.
The only thing I don't like on the *TV460 *are the gathers at the sleeve 
top.
There were way to much gathers and it looked silly.
But I think she did a really good job on the patterns.
They are the simple shapes for the garments and are so easy to adjust to 
make them more fancy.


Melody Watts wrote:

>Hi, 
>I live in the USA, about 1 county over from where
>"Heather" the woman who owns "Truly Victorian" lives,
>I have meet and talked to Heather at Victorian 12th
>night celebrations and Victorian Faires, and can vouch
>that she is not short, I'm 5 ft tall and she towers
>over me a good foot and a half. 
>She wears her creations at the faires and events too.
> I haven't been able to access my sewing room as it 
>has become a temp-y storage area during house
>renovations
>,but I do have her Polanaise pattern waitng for me,
>are there any "adjust for height/length here" lines on
>the patterns? I can't get tomine to check.....
> Her web site has an area for questions and help with
>the patterns, heck she even offered to have people
>come to her house to get help with the fitting.
>I'm sure any problem you encountered with the patterns
>she would be happy to help with, she likes feed back
>on the designs.
> Melody
>
>--- Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
>
>  
>
>>snip......
>>It was also way to short.
>>The TV patterns are made for very short women.
>>I made the sleeve 10cm longer and still it ended up
>>being to short.
>>
>>snip
>>Greetings,
>>       Deredere
>>
>>    
>>
>>>You are right that they are fitted into the
>>>      
>>>
>>armscye. I know someone else who
>>    
>>
>>>had this trouble with the patterns.  
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>> >michaela de bruce
>>    
>>
>>>http://glittersweet.com
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>
>
>
>
>		
>____________________________________________________
>Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
>http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
> 
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>


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Ha, found the business card in my luggage.
It will be www.Tharros.com when it comes to life.
The business seemed relatively new for all that it had 2 shops on the
street in Florence and a full case in the Pitti Palace bookshop (where
I took some of the pictures).
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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>Hello Cynthia,

<snip>
>I know real jewels have to have some weight to them. It's why so many of
the modern repros just don't have that rich, expensive look to them,
because they are made of flat brass bits (which is pretty, but doesn't look
right). The reason why I wanted the jewels to be lighter was because I
thought actual metal jewels would put a huge strain on the French hood I am
making. However, I have come up with a theory that I am working on
verifying that might help the F-hood to hold up to the strain of gold and
jewels all over the top. I will share more when I get the darn hood done!
(my fingers don't like the hand sewing of a curved object).

>Thanks again. I am going back to drooling again.

>Kimiko

No prob. Love to share a good source.  Love to be the first to find
same! I'm fairly new to Elizahoovian, tho not to sewing and not to
milinery. My first french hood, which couldnt take the weight of
Swarovski pearls, looks good anyway, if a bit plain. I've started the
"dog house" gabled hood a la Catherine of Aragon. What a monster. It
could support a gold brick. Maybe two. Having erred in either
direction, I'm hoping that next time, I can get something in the
middle ground. <sigh>

Wouldja couldja post an F-hood photo or 6? Since I've not yet seen you
IRL, I'd love to get an idea of your work. Thanks.

Ciao!  Gotta catch a flight to NYC & the Met.
--cin

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Mmmm...that reminds me.  The Cheapside Hoard lives at the Museum of 
London.  Really impressive!
--sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> The jewelry collection of the V&A or London Gallery is also something to 
> behold. I can't remember which one museum has the collection.  The 
> diamonds, emeralds, and rubies are stunning!


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REPLY &THANKS TO ALL 
Very many thanks to all of you who have contributed suggestions [or are still thinking of doing so] for sites to visit; and thus are helping us to plan our itinery for both cities. 
When going to an unknown area, nothing beats advance Intelligence briefings from people who have visited the area already, and have no "personal axes to grind" - [unlike guide-book authors, who are getting paid to write "good stuff" ].
 
God's Benison upon you all, and your Houses, this Day and until The Judgement.







Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
		
---------------------------------
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 26 09:02:09 2005
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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Holiday in Rome & Venice
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My wife and I are going to Italy in 3 weeks time, spending a week in Rome for her to visit as many historic Catholic Sites as she can cram into the week; - and then on to Venice for me, where I have long wanted to visit the Murano Glass makers, and a "working" boatyard building Gondolas, and the historic Arsenale - or at least the parts open to the Public, - which was the world's first "production-line shipyard".
 
Given our interest in the late-mediæval period, may I ask Listers for their suggestions of Museums and Collections to visit in both cities, where the exhibits would be of particular interest to a couple of enthusiastic re-enactors of English/Norman/Breton** 15th Century life? [** - all 3 Polities had their influence on Life in 15th Century Jersey.]
 
We've never been to either city previously, and although I have already spent quite a number of hours online looking at tourism sites  for Rome & Venice, there is so much "historic" listed , that choices will be hard to make without a little bit more "knowledgeable input".  So suggestions from Listers who've been fortunate enough to visit both cities' historic sites will be very welcome indeed.


 







Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 26 09:21:04 2005
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Your message just now came through on the H-Costume list; the server had 
a hiccup.

Venice: Murano was a disappointment, except for the glass museum.  It's 
a big island (when you're on foot) and there are seemingly hundreds of 
glass shops, many of them selling obvious mass-produced imports, such as 
little molded creatures, painted glass where the color comes off in the 
wash, or lampwork beads, which the proprietors swear were made by their 
family around the corner.

Watching some of the glassblowers at work is fun, but their work sells 
for hundreds of dollars.

What I really enjoyed shopping for in Venice was an unusual paper-mache 
mask.  And as far as touristing, just walking around in the areas far 
away from the major tourist spots was really fun.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Let's see: a game where the object is to kill hundreds of innocents is 
ok, but the minute you have consensual sex in it, it needs a 
Congressional investigation.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 26 10:10:51 2005
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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bustle pictures
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You look wonderful and I love the fancy work on the corset.  Did you do it by hand?
 
Thanks for sharing,
Chris G.

Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
Mmmm... I feel a bit like a Nanny or a school teacher...
It looks a stif.
Probably just a bit to simple for my taste.

http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html

There is still a lot of work to do on the bodice to get it right.
Have to take out the sleeves again since they are stil not looking right.
And it looks like I have huge shoulder muscles :-) .

I am planning on making a nice little straw hat to make the look complete.

Greetings,
Deredere





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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 26 10:51:01 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fitting t-tunics
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I am sorry I am replying to this soooo late - my computer sometimes 'eats' messages.

Any way, I would love to help you with this web site. I am always making T-tunics that fit badly.
I am a broad shouldered, long armed, long torso, short rise, slim build lady.

No matter how I try to 'tweak' the tunic I end up with something that looks like a potato sack - or worse.

I would love to end up with a tunic that: sits properly on my shoulders/neckline, allows me to do work without the sleeves getting in the way, long 'bell' sleeves, enough width in the 'skirt' area for me to walk normally, slightly fitted in the torso area.

hhmmmm..... ooopppsss I guess tunic fitting is a 'hot button' for me.....

Katheryne
who is now trying to find a rock to hide under

J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net> wrote:
One website that i would love to do (when i have the fitting ability) is do a web site with various people and show the first fit of a t-tunic, and then how it looks as one changes each measurement to get a great fitting tunic. 
can you tell that i am a math teacher (methodical, methodical, and methodical)


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     I think you mean British Midlands, which is one of my favorite
airlines and especially the way the flight attendants dress - gloves
and hats while in the airport!

     Good idea about the e-mail list; I should check that out.

     Often there are good fares advertised in the paper, but then they say
"one way based on round trip, other charges apply" - which basically
means double it and add $100.  Which may still be a good deal, but be
sure to read the fine print before getting too excited.

     The V&A is nice, as is the Museum of London.  The Museum of London is
sort of set up as a timeline of London history, and I think it's well
done and of interest to those of us who like any period of history.

     -Carol


> I have a suggestion for those wanting to go to London.  I am on United
> Airlines frequent flyer email list.  During Feb. & Mar. 2005 flights to
> London went for around $200 ISD (roundtrip) from Dulles airport in DC. At
> one point, the price dropped to $175.   I saw flights from Chicago to
> London for just a little bit more. The catch is that you have to
purchase the
> ticket within the week of the offer, and you can travel anytime for a
> month and stay up to a month.  United is also affiliated with British
Midway
> (BMI).  So the flights may be on that airline instead of United.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nesat 7 & 8
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 15:10:11 +0000
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 Beth and Bob Matney wrote: 
> > NESAT 7 was delivered today (in Arkansas) from David Brown. > 
and Cathy Raymond wrote 
I got mine this past Tuesday (Pennsylvania) and my copy of NESAT 8. >>

Is there any chance we could talk you into posting the table of contents of each of these here?

Colleen
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aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:


>  Which may still be a good deal, but be
> sure to read the fine print before getting too excited.

I noticed a lot of internet fares right now being advertised at about 
$650 round trip, which is a great deal, but when I look closely there 
are several hundred dollars in fees and taxes added on that make the 
price the same as the 'regular' fare. They do that with hotels a lot 
too. Taxes can almost double the cost of travel, and surprise you if you 
aren't paying attention.


> 
>      The V&A is nice, as is the Museum of London.  The Museum of London is
> sort of set up as a timeline of London history, and I think it's well
> done and of interest to those of us who like any period of history.
> 

I think I'll be giving the V&A a miss, since a lot of what I really want 
to see won't be on display.  We'll hit the National Gallery and the 
Museum of London, have a nice cup of tea, and find our train...



Dawn



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Yes, I did the embroidery by hand.
The inspiration came from a cream/white embroidered corset in the book 
from the Kyoto museum.
It is on page 279 on the left of the middle row.
Deredere

Chris wrote:

>You look wonderful and I love the fancy work on the corset.  Did you do it by hand?
> 
>Thanks for sharing,
>Chris G.
>
>  
>


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Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 11:04:55 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: ASCII t-tunic pattern (was Re: [h-cost] Fitting t-tunics
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>No matter how I try to 'tweak' the tunic I end up with something that 
>looks like a potato sack - or worse.
>
>I would love to end up with a tunic that: sits properly on my 
>shoulders/neckline, allows me to do work without the sleeves getting in 
>the way, long 'bell' sleeves, enough width in the 'skirt' area for me to 
>walk normally, slightly fitted in the torso area.

I can get a t-tunic dress that fits me out of 4 yards of 45" wide 
material.  I use underarm gussets and side gussets.  My basic pattern is, 
as near as I can do in ASCII (using a fixed-width font), as follows, except 
that it will take extra fabric to make the long bell sleeves:

  basic t-tunic, front view, NOT to scale

|<--sleeve-->|<----body---->|<--sleeve-->|
  __________________neck__________________
|            |     \__/     |            |
|____________|              |____________|
|     /   \  |  underarm    |  /   \     |  hanging
|    /     \ |<--gussets--> | /     \    |<-sleeve
|   /       \|              |/       \   |  piece
|  /         |              |         \  |
| /         /|              |\         \ |
|/         / |    side      | \         \|
/         /  |<--gussets--->|  \         \
          /   |              |   \
         /    |              |    \
        /     |              |     \
           (lengthen as needed)

The body piece is about shoulder width, and the underarm gussets make the 
ease and fitting the bust needs.  The side gussets allow you to walk.

The sleeve pieces will be shorter than you think they should be because the 
shoulder seam drops off the shoulder a little.

Sew the bias edges of the side gussets to the sides of the front and back 
pieces.

Make the underarm gussets a square cut on grain, fold it diagonally and sew 
it in so that it's bias on the diagonal/folded edge under your arm where it 
needs to stretch.

Tie your sleeve points together behind you when you're working or there's 
no way to keep them out of what you're doing.  Cooks/servers didn't wear 
dangly sleeves when cooking/serving, or if they did they got them out of 
the way somehow so the things didn't flop into the Master's food.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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Hi,
I have found a dealer of Suzhou Embroidery Silk Thread on ebay.
He has listed his threads in bundles after colours, each bundle has 6 skeins 
of the same colour in darker to lighter shades. More than 400 colours in 
all.
As i want to buy quite a large amount of this thread in many colours, i have 
asked the dealer if i can buy outside ebay, to save the money this way.
He only can receive a money order or check.
Would you consider this to be much two risky to buy outside ebay, or would 
you recomend me to use ebay?
It would be very slow if i should bit on all those bundles i want.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> He only can receive a money order or check.
> Would you consider this to be much two risky to buy outside ebay, or 
> would you recomend me to use ebay?
> It would be very slow if i should bit on all those bundles i want.

I would take a very good look at the sellers feedback and see if he has 
a good record of transactions with others over the last six months or 
year. If there are any negative comments, what are they for? Is it for 
bad service, or because the buyer changed his mind?

And I would pay by check, because your bank can tell you if it was 
cashed and will have the record, which you do not get so easily with a 
money order.



Dawn


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Postal money orders at least can be researched as cashed/not cashed, 
provided you save the money order number.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>
>
> And I would pay by check, because your bank can tell you if it was 
> cashed and will have the record, which you do not get so easily with a 
> money order.
>
>
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From: Lynda Boots <primevalooze@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Byzantium women's clothing
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Her main interest is in Malta of that period but the
Byzantium influence there was very strong.  

Lynda

--- Glenn McDavid <gmcdavid@comcast.net> wrote:

> On Mon, 25 Jul 2005, Lynda Boots wrote:
> 
> > I'm helping a friend research women's apparel in
> 14th
> > C. Byzantium.  Anything not ecclesiastical or for
> a
> > coronation would be appreciated.
> 
> May I ask why?  IIRC, that is a _very_ depressing
> part of
> Byzantine history.
> 
> Glenn McDavid
> gmcdavid@comcast.net
> gmcdavid@winternet.com
> http://www.winternet.com/~gmcdavid/
> _______________________________________________
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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
>Can you give a quick and dirty comparison of modern and historical lasts?  
>I assume it has to do with the left/rightness of the lasts.

Not necessarily -- the right/left/straight thing is a commonly held myth, 
when in fact the truth could differe fro time to time, and even with social 
class.  In general:

In the Middle Ages shoes were generally made right and left on separate 
lasts (although it seems that straights were a possiblity in certain 
circumstances, and definately an option for peasant shoes).

In the immeadiate post medieval period, when non-turned shoes became the 
norm, lasts remained right and left.

After 1600, probably due to the introduction of separate raised heels, 
straights gradually became the norm, so that by the 1700s people had 
generally forgotten they had been any other way.

In the late 1700s, "crooked" lasts were rediscovered and gradually the new 
technology developed out of that, so that by the mid-1800s the norm was once 
again right and left.

---------------------------

In general the difference in last shape produced a different shaped shoe.  
My best examples are some links to pictures.

Compare the shape of the shoe in the following pictures:

Not made on a last:
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/marc/photos/russboot2.jpg

Made on a 1950s "flat" shoe last.
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/marc/photos/monday4.jpg

Made on a repro 1400 era last:
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/marc/photos/boot.JPG

The last for the preceeding looks like:
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/marc/15th+century+German+style.jpg

This is a 1300s era repro last.

So, some lasts look like lumps of wood, while others are far more developed. 
   And even by the early 1200s, some of the extant shoes hint at that raised 
toe spring and upswept waist.

For a comparison - this is a last from the 1970s:
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/1970s+last.jpg

Looking at them from the front and top, there are similar detail differences 
in last shapes.

Does this help?

Marc


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At 05:40 AM 7/26/2005, you wrote:
>No prob. Love to share a good source.  Love to be the first to find
>same! I'm fairly new to Elizahoovian, tho not to sewing and not to
>milinery. My first french hood, which couldnt take the weight of
>Swarovski pearls, looks good anyway, if a bit plain. I've started the
>"dog house" gabled hood a la Catherine of Aragon. What a monster. It
>could support a gold brick. Maybe two. Having erred in either
>direction, I'm hoping that next time, I can get something in the
>middle ground. <sigh>
>
>Wouldja couldja post an F-hood photo or 6? Since I've not yet seen you
>IRL, I'd love to get an idea of your work. Thanks.
>
>Ciao!  Gotta catch a flight to NYC & the Met.
>--cin


Hiya Cynthia,

I am slowly working my way through my second French hood (1545 time frame). 
My first was made years ago and badly at that, so I figured while I had 
some time not devoted to a gown or man's outfit, I would work on 
accessories for me. I am pregnant with my third child so I really can't do 
a fitted gown right now, and have no reason to make my kirtle until this 
winter for next spring's events.

So, on this new hood after some research, I've wired the buckram, mulled 
the two pieces (base and coronet), hand sewn the fabric on base, and just 
started pinning the lining on that as well. I have a dress diary that has 
some photos and lots of musing of what I am doing, including the theory I 
mentioned.
http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/1545FrenchHood/

I also hope to get a gabled hood as well after this f-hood is finished, and 
a tall hat for my Elizabethan dress. I usually rush through the accessories 
that having time to research and construct well is a nice change, even if I 
don't get to wear it until next spring or fall.

The only other millinery project was my husband's Italian bonnet and an old 
Elizabethan pill box hat that I have no pictures of, yet. I learned a lot 
from the Italian bonnet (like how much I hate curved needles).

Well before I ramble on too much, enjoy your trip to the Met!

Kimiko


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 26 20:24:12 2005
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Tudor Fashions" <TudorFashions@yahoogroups.com>,
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Subject: [h-cost] launching a new Am I Period or Not website (cross post)
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Hello everyone,
many of you may remember the original Am I Period or Not website run by
Kirrily Roberts, well now myself and a team of assistants are reviving the
idea at http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
If you aren't familiar with the concept here's a brief summary: People send
in photos of the historical costumes they've made, the photos are loaded
onto a website where people can view them, vote on how period accurate they
are and leave comments. This new Am I Period Or Not website covers the
fashions of any era you like, from the first civilisations to the day before
yesterday. Right now the website is in it's infancy there are 5 16th century
outfits but we're happy to expand (right now there are a lot of empty
albums). So if you're interested in seeing other people's work or you want
to see your own work critiqued (though be warned, not everyone on the
internet is polite so if you're sensitive about your work you might want to
re-think sending it in) come along and have a look. Fell free to pass this
message on, but be warned geocities doesn't deal well with floods of people
viewing the site all at once, and you may get an error message if a lot of
people all turn up at once.
enjoy,
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic about ebay
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At 12:00 PM 7/26/2005, you wrote:
>Hi,
>I have found a dealer of Suzhou Embroidery Silk Thread on ebay.
>He has listed his threads in bundles after colours, each bundle has 6 
>skeins of the same colour in darker to lighter shades. More than 400 
>colours in all.
>As i want to buy quite a large amount of this thread in many colours, i 
>have asked the dealer if i can buy outside ebay, to save the money this way.
>He only can receive a money order or check.
>Would you consider this to be much two risky to buy outside ebay, or would 
>you recomend me to use ebay?
>It would be very slow if i should bit on all those bundles i want.
>
>Bjarne


Hi Bjarne,

Is the seller chinaembroider? If so, I wonder why such a low feedback score 
of 2, when they have been on eBay since Sept of last year, and only one is 
from a buyer of their threads? I also wonder why he states on the auctions 
that he *does* accept credit cards through PayPal, but doesn't do so when 
bought outside of eBay? There are two too many questions for me to feel 
comfortable on this, although it could be legit.

You could try a bundle or two in eBay, to see if it is worth your time and 
money. Considering the low starting bid I see, it may be worth a chance, 
and if you use Paypal, you would have some record of the payment in case 
there is a problem. Then if things are fine, you would feel better about 
ordering more from this seller. That's what I did for some silk I ordered 
from a seller in India. I am happy with them, and will be ordering more.

My thoughts fwiw.

Kimiko


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 Kimiko wrote:
 
 I also wonder why he states on the auctions that he *does* accept credit cards through PayPal, but doesn't do so when bought outside of eBay?  

As someone who makes a big percentage of his income from selling on eBay and who has had a bank merchant sales account for 25 years,  I feel qualified to answer this question. Many eBay merchants have a PayPal account and can accept all the forms of payment through PayPal that PayPal accepts (in fact, they soon will be *required* to do so by eBay), since the customer is actually paying PayPal and then PayPal is transferring the money to your account. 
 
In order to accept credit cards directly from a customer, you have to have a merchant sales account through your own bank (and jump through all the hoops necessary to have that account and to process payments). For many merchants, it's not worth the trouble or expense, especially since PayPal has made it so easy.
 
In service,
 
Geffrei de Warenne
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Julian wrote:

> 
> My wife and I are going to Italy in 3 weeks time, spending a week 
> in Rome for her to visit as many historic Catholic Sites as she can 
> cram into the week; - and then on to Venice for me.

I've never been lucky enough to travel to Italy, but my general suggestion for anyone traveling is to check out the BBS on  www.lonelyplanet.com (if I remember correctly, it is called the Thorn Tree), they generally have good suggestions about food, accomodations ect.

have fun,
Katie

-- 
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NEW! Lycos Dating Search. The only place to search multiple dating sites at once.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic about ebay
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In my experience there is no more risk buying from an eBay seller 
"outside the auction" than inside it.  eBay in reality does little or 
nothing to protect the buyer's interests.  Oh, they give you a "dispute 
form" so you and the seller can communicate (which you could do 
anyway).  And--if you're willing to pay $25 for the privilege--after 
going through this "dispute process" eBay will try and get the seller to 
cough up. How hard eBay tries, and how well they succeed, I don't know.  
In any case I think you get only three of the "dispute resolutions"--not 
the form, but the process where eBay tries to claim from the seller--in 
a lifetime.  Meaning, you probably don't want to bother unless a lot of 
money is involved.

So all you get, if you buy at auction rather than from an eBay seller 
"outside" one, is the dispute form and the privilege of paying 
$25--three times only--to let eBay try and collect for you.

What you really want is seller reliability. That is good inside and 
outside the auction.  A few negative feedbacks over a selling lifetime 
probably don't matter.  Some people are really irrational and will slap 
hysterical revenge feedback if the buyer complained even mildly about 
them.  I've had a seller give me revenge feedback in return for a 
positive feedback they thought wasn't glowing enough, and use 
obscenities in it too.

You don't have to pay attention to this kind of stuff.  But anyone, even 
a "Power Seller," with thousands of feedbacks, who's getting several 
negatives a month, is worth worrying about.  Especially if these are all 
of the same type, and show a pattern of merchandise never arriving, or 
bad quality, or some such thing.  Or they're all about the type of thing 
you're buying--all the negatives are about the embroidery thread this 
seller sells, even though buyers all love the fabric or whatever else 
they sell.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


>
> As i want to buy quite a large amount of this thread in many colours, 
> i have asked the dealer if i can buy outside ebay, to save the money 
> this way.
> He only can receive a money order or check.
> Would you consider this to be much two risky to buy outside ebay, or 
> would you recomend me to use ebay?
> It would be very slow if i should bit on all those bundles i want.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] launching a new Am I Period or Not website (cross post)
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Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> If you aren't familiar with the concept here's a brief summary: People send
> in photos of the historical costumes they've made, the photos are loaded
> onto a website where people can view them, vote on how period accurate they
> are and leave comments.

Is it going to be a serious website, or a joke website, with lots of 
joke submissions, like the former version?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] launching a new Am I Period or Not website (cross post)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1137976039.9cc427@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] launching a new Am I Period or Not website (cross
post)


> Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> > If you aren't familiar with the concept here's a brief summary: People
send
> > in photos of the historical costumes they've made, the photos are loaded
> > onto a website where people can view them, vote on how period accurate
they
> > are and leave comments.
>
> Is it going to be a serious website, or a joke website, with lots of
> joke submissions, like the former version?
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
<snip>
Well I've created a category for fantasy creations with a tenuous link to
history and I'm going to cut out much of the fetish wear (as the terms of
use for the site that's hosting the photos says anything they define as
pornography will get the account cancelled and all the photos deleted so I'm
going to err on the side of caution). I haven't  decided yet what to do if I
think somebody has requested the wrong category, hopefully this will be
predominantly serious attempts and the jokes will be confined to the 'other'
category
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> 
> Is it going to be a serious website, or a joke website, with lots of 
> joke submissions, like the former version?
> 

If you're looking for a fairly serious feedback site, try here:

http://slumberland.org/moodle/course/view.php?id=5

Looks like it's only medieval and renaissance, but the folks there seem 
to be pretty mature about the comments thing, and since the site 
requires registration there's little or no abuse.



Dawn


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Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 13:40:10 +1000
From: Karinne Taylor <karinne.taylor@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] launching a new Am I Period or Not website (cross post)
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Thanks for the compliments :) There is a section for post 16th
century, and one of "not-so-period" but most of our membership is
focussed on pre-16th century clothing. So it doesn't get much traffic.

That can of course change. we are always welcome to new members, it's
a samll but active community.

Cheers, Karinne
16thC Moderator for MedCos site

On 7/27/05, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> If you're looking for a fairly serious feedback site, try here:
> 
> http://slumberland.org/moodle/course/view.php?id=5
> 
> Looks like it's only medieval and renaissance, but the folks there seem
> to be pretty mature about the comments thing, and since the site
> requires registration there's little or no abuse.

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Table of Contents--NESAT 7 (was Re: [h-cost] Nesat 7 & 8)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 00:03:28 -0400
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On Tuesday 26 July 2005 11:10 am, colleen.mcdonald@comcast.net wrote:
>  Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> > > NESAT 7 was delivered today (in Arkansas) from David Brown. >
>
> and Cathy Raymond wrote
> I got mine this past Tuesday (Pennsylvania) and my copy of NESAT 8. >>
>
> Is there any chance we could talk you into posting the table of contents of
> each of these here?

Sure.  I'm a sucker for requests for help.  

I have the Table of Contents for 8 in a jpeg that includes the order form, but 
this list doesn't permit attachments and I don't (yet) have a website to post 
the jpeg on, so I will have to input both by hand.  There is a website that 
lists the contents of NESAT 7 (and someone in fact posted it to this list), 
but I didn't save it and can't find it again despite many Googling efforts.

Some of the articles in both NESATs are in German, and some of the authors are 
French or of other nationalities whose names require certain diacritical 
marks.  I don't read German, and since I'm not doing this email in HTML 
markup, any diacritical marks will be missing.  Please take that into account 
when reading this.  Finally, I'm going to put each table of contents in a 
separate email so that neither post is excessively long.  Here goes.

__________________________________________________________________

NESAT 7--TABLE OF CONTENTS:

Northern Archaeological Textiles--NESAT VII  edited by Frances Pritchard and 
John Peter Wild.  Oxbow Books, 2005.  ISBN:  1 84217 162 3

1.  Carmen Alfaro Giner, "Gold Textiles from a Roman Burial at Munigua, 
(Malva, Seville)."
2.  Isabelle Bedat, Sophie Desrosiers, Christophe Moulherat, Caroline Relier, 
"Two Gallo-Roman Graves Recently Found in Naintre (Vienne, France)."
3.  Frauke Kadereit, "Das Madchengrab der Fallward:  Vorlaufiger Bericht."
4.  Antoinette Rast-Eicher, "Fruhmittelalterliche Textileien aus der 
Nordostschweiz."
5.  Lisa Vanhaeke, Chris Verhecken-Lammens, "Textile Pseudomorphs from a 
Merovingian Burial Ground at Harmignies, Belgium."
6.  Anne Hedeager Krag, "Denmark--Europe:  Dress and Fashion in Denmark's 
Viking Age."
7.  Lise Raeder Knudsen, "Brocaded Tablet-Woven Bands:  Same Appearance, 
Different Weaving Technique, Horning, Hvilehoj and Mammen."
8.  Eva Andersson, "Textile PRoduction at Birka:  Household Needs or Ogranized 
Workshops?"
9.  Philippa A. Henry, "Who Produced the Textiles?  Changing Gender Roles in 
Late Saxon Textile Production:  The Archaeological and Documentary Evidence."
10.  Eva-Maria Pfarr, "Handwerk oder Industrie?  Erfahrungen bei der 
Herstellung eines hochmittelalterlichen Wollgewebes auf dem 
Gewichtswebstuhl."
11.  Lise Bender Jorgensen, "Textiles of Seafaring:  an INtroduction to an 
Interdisciplinary Research Project."
12.  Bill Cooke, Carol Christiansen, "What Makes a Viking Sail?"
13.  Susan Moller-Wiering, "Textiles for Transport."
14.  Else Ostergard, "The Greenlandic Vadmal."
15.  Jerzy Maik, "Stand und Notwendigkeit der Forschungen uber die 
mittelalterliche Wollweberei auf dem sudlichen Ostseegebiet."
16.  Milena Bravermanova, "The Collection of Archaeological Textiles at Prague 
Castle."
17.  Klaus Tidow, "Textilfunde aus dem dreizehnten bis siebzehnten 
Jahrhundert:  Neue Fund--Neue Erkenntnisse."  
18.  Hanna Zimmerman, "Sixtennth-Century Textiels from Two Sites in Groningen, 
The Netherlands."
19.  Elizabeth Wincott Heckett, " 'The Apparel oft Proclaims the Man'--Late 
Sixteenth-and Early Seventeenth-Century Textiles from Bridge Street Upper; 
Dublin."
20. Malgorzata Grupa, "Women's Roves Excavated from the Burial Crypt in the 
Holy Virgin Mary's Chruch,l Torun, Poland."
21.  Anna Drazkowska, "The Influence of Western European Fashion on the 
Clothing of Torun's Townsfolk."
22.  Michael L. Ryder, "The Human Development of Different Fleece-Types in 
Sheep and Its Association with the Development of Textile Crafts."
23. Karen-Hanne Staermose Nielsen, "A Preliminary Classification of Shapes of 
Loomweights."
24.  Gertrud Grenaander Nyberg, "Remarks Concerning Some Details of Early 
Spinning Wheels."

END OF VOLUME

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Table of Contents--NESAT 8 (Was: Re: [h-cost] Nesat 7 & 8)
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On Tuesday 26 July 2005 11:10 am, colleen.mcdonald@comcast.net wrote:
>  Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> > > NESAT 7 was delivered today (in Arkansas) from David Brown. >
>
> and Cathy Raymond wrote
> I got mine this past Tuesday (Pennsylvania) and my copy of NESAT 8. >>
>
> Is there any chance we could talk you into posting the table of contents of
> each of these here?

Here comes NESAT 8.

NESAT 8--TABLE OF CONTENTS

Priceless Invention of Humanity--Textiles.  NESAT VIII,  edited by Jerzy Maik, 
Acta Archaeologica Lodziensia Nr 50/1 (2004).  ISSN:  0065-0986

1.  Carol A. Christiansen, "A Reanalysis of Fleece Evolution Studies."
2.  Fabienne Medard, Christophe Moulherat, Sophie Mery, "Discovery of Charred 
Yarn in a Bronze Age Burial at Hili (Abu Dhabi Region, United Arab 
Emirates)."
3.  Carmen Alfaro Giner, "Late Roman Textiles in the North of Spain ("Las 
Ermitas," Vitoria).
4.  Ida Demant, "Textiles and Dress-Fasteners from Lerdal Grave 101."
5.  Heidemarie Farke, "Textiles Spuren in einem kaiserzeitlichen Grab aus 
Horddeutschland."
6.  Katarzyna Barska, "The Roman Period Warp-Weighted Loom from Ozarow 
Mazowiecki, Poland."
7.  Chris Verhecken-Lammens, March Rogge, Antoine De Moor, "Textiles found in 
a Merovingian Woman's Grave at Beerlegem, Belgium."
8.  Marianne Vedeler, "Pleated Fragments fo Clothing from Norway."
9.  Ulla Mannering, "Dress in Scandinavian Iconography of the 5-10th Centuries 
A.D."
10.  Antoinette Rast-Eicher, "Early Medieval Costume in Switzerland."
11.  Anne Hedeager Krag, "New Light on a Viking Garment from Ladby, Denmark."
12.  Milena Bravermanova, "The Oldest Textile Items from the Reliquary Tomb of 
St. Ludmila."
13.  Elizabeth Wincott Heckett, "A Tenth Century Cloth from Bogstown Co. 
Meath."
14.  Malgorzata Grupa, "Textiles from the Early Medieval Cemetery at Kaldus, 
Pomerania, Poland."
15. Eva I. Andersson, "Written Traces--Wills in 13th to 15th Century 
Scandanavia."
16.  Susan Moller-Wiering, " Schiffbau und Textil:  Ansatze zu einer 
systematischen Untersuchung von Kalfat."
17.  Lise Raeder Knudsen, "Written Patterns in Early Tablet Weaving."
18.  Katarzyna Urbaniak-Walczak, "Ein koptisches Textilfragment in 
Leinwand-Schuss-Kompositbindung aus der Sammlung des Nationalmuseums in 
Warschau."
19.  Marek Trojanowicz, Isabella Surowiec, Jowita Orska-Gawrys, Bogan Szostek, 
Katarzyna Urbaniak-Walczak, Magadalena Biesaga, "Chromatographic Examination 
of Dyes Extracted from Coptic Textiles from the Collections of the National 
Museum in Warsaw."
20.  Klaus Tidow, "Neue Funde von Webstuhlteilen und Geweben aus Ausgrabungen 
in Braunschweig (Niedersachsen) und Wiesloch (Baden-Wurttemberg)."
21.  Fabian Peise, "Eine Lubecker Kase im Danziger Paramentenschatz."
22.  Hanna Zimmerman, "Sixteenth-Century Hose and their Manufacture.'
23.  Anna Drazkowska, "17th and 18th Century Clothing from Children's Graves 
Discovered in the Church at Kostryn on the Oder, Poland."
24.  Gudren Bottcher, "Versuche und Erge Bnisse bei der Rekonstruktion von 
Nadelbindungstextilien."
25.  Britt Nowak, "Zur Bearbeitung and Konservierung von Goldfaden aus dem 
fruhmittelalterlichen Mannergrab 21 in Lauchheim/Mittelhofen 
(Ostalbkreis/Baden-Wurttemberg)."
26.  Elizabeth E. Peacock, "Moseforsog--Two Generations of Bog Burial Studies.  
Interim Textile Results."
27.  Eva Andersson, "The Reconstruction ;of Archaeological Textiles, A Source 
Critical Approach."

END OF VOLUME.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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I have to brag! 

It seem that I won this weeks $100 Shopping Spree at Fabric.Com.  Still 
in shock and now I have to figure out what to spend it on.  I've got a 
dozen ideas all screaming at me.  Do I remake, "The Baby Blue Cavalier" 
(Remember the first one Regina?) or make some new Renn Faire clothes in 
real silk and cotton velvet.  Or they have some real red silk for a drop 
dead Byzantine and use up all those pearls that my bead freak Mother 
keeps giving me, not that I'm complaining.  There is the Celery and 
Violet  Bengaline that would make a great 1770's suit embrodierd in 
Ribbons ala Bjarne.  And let's not even look at the wools, I need a new 
1840's great coat in a LOUD plaid.  They have orange and pink velvet for 
some thing Teddy might wear.  AND AND AND

HELP!!!!

The shell shocked Stephen Bergdahl
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Subject: [h-cost] medieval garb for nursing mothers
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Are there any on-line sites about medieval garb for nursing mothers?  
Thank you.
 
Nancy  

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 
Ingvild  Josefsdatter, OL
Bright Hills, Atlantia

"But if by a 'Liberal' they  mean someone who looks ahead and not behind, 
someone who welcomes new ideas  without rigid reactions, someone who cares about 
the welfare of the people --  their health, their housing, their schools, 
their jobs, their civil rights, and  their civil liberties -- someone who believes 
we can break through the stalemate  and suspicions that grip us in our 
policies abroad, if that is what they mean by  a 'Liberal,' then I'm proud to say 
I'm a 'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept  1960

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] launching a new Am I Period or Not website (cross post)
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Hello everyone,
many of you may remember the original Am I Period or Not website run by
Kirrily Roberts, well now myself and a team of assistants are reviving the
idea at http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
If you aren't familiar with the concept here's a brief summary: People send
in photos of the historical costumes they've made, the photos are loaded
onto a website where people can view them, vote on how period accurate they
are and leave comments. This new Am I Period Or Not website covers the
fashions of any era you like, from the first civilisations to the day before
yesterday. Right now the website is in it's infancy there are 5 16th century
outfits but we're happy to expand (right now there are a lot of empty
albums). So if you're interested in seeing other people's work or you want
to see your own work critiqued (though be warned, not everyone on the
internet is polite so if you're sensitive about your work you might want to
re-think sending it in) come along and have a look. Fell free to pass this
message on, but be warned geocities doesn't deal well with floods of people
viewing the site all at once, and you may get an error message if a lot of
people all turn up at once.
enjoy,


I wish you luck with your new venture.

However, the original website took a picture from my personal website
without my permission - a fantasy costume and so specified - and made a
critique as if it was an historical one. I do hope that this will not
happen on your new version. 

Suzi

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Good News
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 22:23:03 -0700
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Oh My!  I've been looking through the Drachenwald photos lately since we now
have a drachenwaldreminiscencers yahoo group (wanna join?) I think I have
the posed pic of the Baby Blue Cavalier.  Still, My vote goes for the red
silk Byzantine!

Regina

> It seem that I won this weeks $100 Shopping Spree at Fabric.Com.  Still
> in shock and now I have to figure out what to spend it on.  I've got a
> dozen ideas all screaming at me.  Do I remake, "The Baby Blue Cavalier"
> (Remember the first one Regina?) or make some new Renn Faire clothes in
> real silk and cotton velvet.  Or they have some real red silk for a drop
> dead Byzantine and use up all those pearls that my bead freak Mother
> keeps giving me, not that I'm complaining.

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Good News
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May I recommend Elizabethan with pearl work?
or this in Italian
http://www.fabric.com/cotton-velvet-fabric-coral-stria.aspx

-----Original Message-----
I have to brag! 

It seem that I won this weeks $100 Shopping Spree at Fabric.Com.  Still 
in shock and now I have to figure out what to spend it on.  I've got a 
dozen ideas all screaming at me.  Do I remake, "The Baby Blue Cavalier" 
(Remember the first one Regina?) or make some new Renn Faire clothes in 
real silk and cotton velvet.  Or they have some real red silk for a drop 
dead Byzantine and use up all those pearls that my bead freak Mother 
keeps giving me, not that I'm complaining.  There is the Celery and 
Violet  Bengaline that would make a great 1770's suit embrodierd in 
Ribbons ala Bjarne.  And let's not even look at the wools, I need a new 
1840's great coat in a LOUD plaid.  They have orange and pink velvet for 
some thing Teddy might wear.  AND AND AND

HELP!!!!

The shell shocked Stephen Bergdahl


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 27 04:46:06 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Suggestions for London
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I received my United Airlines newsletter today.  If anyone would like for me 
to forward it to you, please contact me privately.

Carol, you are correct, it is British Midlands.  The stewarts were so nice 
to me and helped carry my bags.  They also feed you all the way to England 
and back.  Tickets to England and back from Washington DC, generally go in 
the $600 to $800 range during peak season and if you purchase them a month 
or so in advance.  Within the past year we have purchased three round trip 
tickets and the price was around upper $400 to lower $500s.  The last one we 
purchased was in March before the airlines raised rates for gas prices.

When I was in London, my very favorite place was St. Paul's Catheral.  The 
artwork is beautiful!  I also loved our day trip to the Bath Costume Museum. 
I was very impressed with their costume displays.  I wasn't impressed with 
the permanent V&A costume exhibit... to much high fashion.   The storage and 
textiles areas were closed when I was there. I loved the crown jewels at the 
Tower of London.  I could have stayed there all day staring, if they would 
have let me.  I am not a big jewelry fan, but these jewelry exhibits that I 
mentioned today and yesterday were just breathtaking.

Susan, my asst. told me that there is a hand-fan museum in London.  She 
tried to find it on her trip to England but was unsuccessful.  Maybe some of 
our London list members can give better directions to the museum and if they 
have been there, provide a review of the collection.  Is it worth finding.

If anyone is going to Liverpool, I can suggest a couple of must-see places 
there.  One day I will get my photos online from that trip.  Currently I am 
putting online antebellum homes from the Mississippi Gulf Coast.  Maybe I'll 
get to the Liverpool/Wales photos after the Back-to-School/Halloween rush 
season.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good News
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Hi Steven,
Congratulations with the lottery, gosh what a treat!
I couldnt resist in notice your line with Violet Bengaline for a suit. What 
is Bengaline, havent got a clue?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>; 
<margospatterns@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 6:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Good News


>I have to brag!
> It seem that I won this weeks $100 Shopping Spree at Fabric.Com.  Still in 
> shock and now I have to figure out what to spend it on.  I've got a dozen 
> ideas all screaming at me.  Do I remake, "The Baby Blue Cavalier" 
> (Remember the first one Regina?) or make some new Renn Faire clothes in 
> real silk and cotton velvet.  Or they have some real red silk for a drop 
> dead Byzantine and use up all those pearls that my bead freak Mother keeps 
> giving me, not that I'm complaining.  There is the Celery and Violet 
> Bengaline that would make a great 1770's suit embrodierd in Ribbons ala 
> Bjarne.  And let's not even look at the wools, I need a new 1840's great 
> coat in a LOUD plaid.  They have orange and pink velvet for some thing 
> Teddy might wear.  AND AND AND
>
> HELP!!!!
>
> The shell shocked Stephen Bergdahl
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
Thanks for all your responses, well i think that many of you are right, i 
should be cautious.
I have desided to ask him if he will make a "package" of the bundles i want 
and make it so that i can bit on this package at ebay. If he dont want, well 
then i wont buy.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Suggestions for London/Fan Museum
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Susan, my asst. told me that there is a hand-fan museum in London.  She 
tried to find it on her trip to England but was unsuccessful.  Maybe some
of 
our London list members can give better directions to the museum and if
they 
have been there, provide a review of the collection.  Is it worth finding.

The Fan Museum is slightly outside the centre of London, and not really
close enough for a quick visit if you are limited for time. It is at
Croom's Hill, Greenwich and has a web site, which I don't have to hand. It
is housed in two 18th century houses, with a small garden and does cream
teas (!!!) Greenwich is a fascinating place for a day's visit any way -
National Maritime Museum, markets, Cutty Sark, beautiful architecture -
well worth it. And at the top of the hill in Blackheath is the Ranger's
House housing a wonderful portrait collection from the very early 17th
century


Suzi

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<snip>
> I wish you luck with your new venture.
>
> However, the original website took a picture from my personal website
> without my permission - a fantasy costume and so specified - and made a
> critique as if it was an historical one. I do hope that this will not
> happen on your new version.
>
> Suzi
>
I will do what I can to stop image theft but I don't have the resources to
search the internet every time somebody submits a picture so, I'm going to
work on a presumption of innocence until proven guilty. However I will keep
a record of the name of the person who submits a photo and if somebody
brings it to my attention I will ban any image thief from submitting more
photos.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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<snip>
> I wish you luck with your new venture.
>
> However, the original website took a picture from my personal website
> without my permission - a fantasy costume and so specified - and made a
> critique as if it was an historical one. I do hope that this will not
> happen on your new version.
>
> Suzi
>
I will do what I can to stop image theft but I don't have the resources to
search the internet every time somebody submits a picture so, I'm going to
work on a presumption of innocence until proven guilty. However I will keep
a record of the name of the person who submits a photo and if somebody
brings it to my attention I will ban any image thief from submitting more
photos.
Elizabeth

Thank you for your reassurance. I think the premise behind the original one
was - "Take any image and do a critique" which I think is questionable to
say the least. If I want a critique of my work I am happy to submit it
personally, but as a professional maker, I am bound by customer choice, so
often it is not truly "historical". Your new version sounds much more
sensible and personal, and I hope it goes well.

Suzi

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suziclarkeuk-mail@mail.suziclarke.co.uk wrote:
> Thank you for your reassurance. I think the premise behind the original one
> was - "Take any image and do a critique" which I think is questionable to
> say the least.

The old site didn't specify that it had to be a picture of one's own 
work, or even if the site was trying to be serious or silly.  As a 
result, it got fairly crazy, and some people clearly thought it was 
"let's be as unhelpfully critical as possible, for fun."

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

It stressed the "negative effects" of long hair on "human intelligence 
development", noting that long hair "consumes a great deal of nutrition" 
and could thus rob the brain of energy.  -- BBC about a public-education 
campagin in N. Korea
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] medieval garb for nursing mothers
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Try this site:

http://www.briaca.com/art/maternity.html

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady25.jpg

Good luck
Annette

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of SNSpies@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 12:56 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] medieval garb for nursing mothers

Are there any on-line sites about medieval garb for nursing mothers?  
Thank you.
 
Nancy  

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
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  They have orange and pink velvet for 
> some thing Teddy might wear.  AND AND AND

Ooh! Ooh!! Do the orange and pink, do the orange and pink.

And by the way, you suck. ;-)

Dianne

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<weg>
I'd be happy to take the problem off your hands entirely!
--sue

Stephen Bergdahl wrote:

> I have to brag!
> It seem that I won this weeks $100 Shopping Spree at Fabric.Com.  Still 
> in shock and now I have to figure out what to spend it on.  I've got a 
> dozen ideas all screaming at me.  Do I remake, "The Baby Blue Cavalier" 
> (Remember the first one Regina?) or make some new Renn Faire clothes in 
> real silk and cotton velvet.  Or they have some real red silk for a drop 
> dead Byzantine and use up all those pearls that my bead freak Mother 
> keeps giving me, not that I'm complaining.  There is the Celery and 
> Violet  Bengaline that would make a great 1770's suit embrodierd in 
> Ribbons ala Bjarne.  And let's not even look at the wools, I need a new 
> 1840's great coat in a LOUD plaid.  They have orange and pink velvet for 
> some thing Teddy might wear.  AND AND AND
> 
> HELP!!!!
> 
> The shell shocked Stephen Bergdahl


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On Wed, 27 Jul 2005, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> I will do what I can to stop image theft but I don't have the
> resources to search the internet every time somebody submits a picture
> so, I'm going to work on a presumption of innocence until proven
> guilty. However I will keep a record of the name of the person who
> submits a photo and if somebody brings it to my attention I will ban
> any image thief from submitting more photos.

Perhaps also make an explicit rule that people are to submit only photos
of themselves or costumes they have made (or something similarly
restrictive). Otherwise people might assume the purpose of the site is to
seek comments on costumes they've seen elsewhere, e.g. "I saw someone
wearing this, what do you think?" or "Look what I found, isn't this a
hoot?" -- these can be valid questions but probably not what you want in
your forum, and that's where the privacy and copyright violations will
occur.

I think asking everyone who posts pictures or comments to register first
might be a good way to cut down on the viciousness that appeared on the
original site, if there's some way to allow people to vote/comment without
their identities being posted (but perhaps accessible to you). Then you
could boot the trolls and ballot-box stuffers.

You might also consider making explicit just what the question means. Is
it "Please identify every possible error you can spot in this based on
your personal knowledge of the period," or -- and I'm guessing this is
more likely -- "If you saw this person at an event, rate your overall
initial impression from 0 (wandered in by mistake) to 10 (stepped out of a
time machine)." 

Also, consider whether you want to allow people to specify in their
picture postings just what they want viewers to consider: the whole outfit
or just a certain portion, the period/place/class they're aiming for,
whether it's a first attempt, whether it's 95 degrees out and that's why
they took off the fur-lined overdress, whether it was an informal snapshot
and thus the person happened to be wearing glasses and carrying a
clipboard but please comment on the outfit thankyouverymuch.

--Robin

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Not that I know of, although discussions about same do come up on some 
of the medieval lists that I'm on.  Discussions seem to center around 
the easiest ways to modify historical clothing (e.g., where/how to place 
a neck slit in an earlier-period tunic or shift lacing lines), or which 
styles most easily morph into nursing-friendly clothing (like those 16th 
century surcoats with the slits over the chest).
--sue

SNSpies@aol.com wrote:

> Are there any on-line sites about medieval garb for nursing mothers?  
> Thank you.
>  
> Nancy  


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Suggestions for London - Fan Museum
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The Fan museum is in Greenwich (near naval museum) also next to the house
Daniel Day Lewis grew up in, his father was poet laureate for United Kingdom
at the time. There is a plaque marking it.  It is an easy walk from the tube
station.

It is a lovely small museum with a fine orangery in the back.

http://www.fan-museum.org/information.asp

12 Crooms Hill,
Greenwich, London SE10 8ER
Telephone:   
0208-305 1441
0208-293 1889

 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 04:45:24 -0400
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Suggestions for London
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <003601c59287$87c3e610$6800a8c0@Penny>
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>\

> Susan, my asst. told me that there is a hand-fan museum in London.  She
> tried to find it on her trip to England but was unsuccessful.  Maybe some of
> our London list members can give better directions to the museum and if they
> have been there, provide a review of the collection.  Is it worth finding.
> 
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval garb for nursing mothers
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A friend of mine swore by sideless surcoats. She'd slit the neckline of
the undertunic, making flaps which velcro'd closed. When baby fussed, she
would open the flap, and discretely nurse under the surcoat.

Arlys
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The first time I went to London, my parents insisted that I promise to see
the Crown Jewels. Not much interested in jewelry, I balked -- but then I
figured I was going to the Tower anyway, so why not?

Go. See the Crown Jewels. They are unbelievable, and this from (again)
someone not much interested in jewels or jewelry. Get there early before
there's a huge line.

As far as non-costume things go, I recommend Canterbury. It's a good day
trip, and a lovely medieval town. And then you can wear a pilgrim medal!

Gail Finke

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In a message dated 7/27/2005 9:10:20 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

What  
is Bengaline, havent got a clue?



Since no one has replied yet--it is one of the crosswise ribbed fabrics  
(originally made from silk, of course), similar to faille and grosgrain.   There 
is an order of these fabrics from fine ribs to fatter ones, but I  don't 
remember exactly how they fall.  I think bengaline is one of the  fatter ones.  
Also, I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I  believe some of these 
have "stuffers" to make the ribs fatter.
 
Ann Wass 
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One thing to do might be to have people submit not only their own 
photos, but a brief statement (like one paragraph) about their goal in 
creating the costume and what they want out of a critique.  Like, their 
goal was 100% accuracy for a woman's Viking outfit, their goal was to 
create as good an Elizabethan noble outfit as possible with a total 
budget of $50 and a total schedule of 80 hours, their goal was to create 
a really great outfit for Kate in a performance of _The Taming of the 
Shrew_, their goal was to create a fastasy medievalish wedding dress for 
a customer, their goal was to create a humorous take-off of an 1860s 
crinoline dress. etc.

Really, the only valid critique of an outfit (or many other things) is 
whether the creator met the goal they were trying to meet. And how can 
anyone do that if they don't know the goal?

Fran


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Hi Steven,
Now i found out what bengaline is, but seriously when you have won such a 
price, it would be a shame to make a suit of polyester Steven, even that the 
colours are lovely, but seriously.........

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>; 
<margospatterns@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 6:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Good News


>I have to brag!
> It seem that I won this weeks $100 Shopping Spree at Fabric.Com.  Still in 
> shock and now I have to figure out what to spend it on.  I've got a dozen 
> ideas all screaming at me.  Do I remake, "The Baby Blue Cavalier" 
> (Remember the first one Regina?) or make some new Renn Faire clothes in 
> real silk and cotton velvet.  Or they have some real red silk for a drop 
> dead Byzantine and use up all those pearls that my bead freak Mother keeps 
> giving me, not that I'm complaining.  There is the Celery and Violet 
> Bengaline that would make a great 1770's suit embrodierd in Ribbons ala 
> Bjarne.  And let's not even look at the wools, I need a new 1840's great 
> coat in a LOUD plaid.  They have orange and pink velvet for some thing 
> Teddy might wear.  AND AND AND
>
> HELP!!!!
>
> The shell shocked Stephen Bergdahl
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 27 13:19:19 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Medieval garb for nursing mothers
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Status: RO

 Hello  :o )

I am very glad to meet you.

I am fairly new to the list, a recent American immigrant to Australia, Susie 
White.  I have had intense urges to sew costumes for as long as I can 
remember, and having recently joined the SCA, my interest in historical 
accuracy has zoomed  lol

I have had reason to comb the net lately for medieval references, and 
remember seeing something about nursing attire on Margo Anderson's site 
(www.margospatterns.com) under "Future Releases".
She has introduced a package of patterns called, "The Elizabethan Comfort 
Patterns" which are based on the Janet Arnold Kirtle and Gown from _Patterns 
Of Fashion_.  There are directions for maternity hemlines and breast feeding 
openings, something I remember well  ;o )  lol  having had two children, 
myself.  Don't know if this sort of resource is your bailiwick or not, but 
is the only thing I've found recently.  I do wish you well, _and_ plenty of 
rest!!!  Remember to take care of Mom, Nancy  :o )

Thank you all so very much for all the information you share so freely, and 
to the creators of the list...  Brilliant!!!  Absolutely Brilliant!!!  :o )

Susie

-----Original Message-----
 >From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of SNSpies@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 12:56 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] medieval garb for nursing mothers
>
> Are there any on-line sites about medieval garb for nursing mothers?
> Thank you.
>
> Nancy
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 27 13:44:46 2005
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From: Stephen Bergdahl <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good News
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Status: RO

Yes I know Bjarne.

A polyester suit is a bad idea.  Even if I was just going to wear it 
indoors.  But those colors are just so wonderful.  I am leaning more 
towards a new Elizabethain.  In silk and cotton velvet, seeing I will be 
selling at a number of faires next year I should have something spiffy 
to wear.

Stephen

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi Steven,
> Now i found out what bengaline is, but seriously when you have won 
> such a price, it would be a shame to make a suit of polyester Steven, 
> even that the colours are lovely, but seriously.........
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Bergdahl" 
> <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>; 
> <margospatterns@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 6:46 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Good News
>
>
>> I have to brag!
>> It seem that I won this weeks $100 Shopping Spree at Fabric.Com.  
>> Still in shock and now I have to figure out what to spend it on.  
>> I've got a dozen ideas all screaming at me.  Do I remake, "The Baby 
>> Blue Cavalier" (Remember the first one Regina?) or make some new Renn 
>> Faire clothes in real silk and cotton velvet.  Or they have some real 
>> red silk for a drop dead Byzantine and use up all those pearls that 
>> my bead freak Mother keeps giving me, not that I'm complaining.  
>> There is the Celery and Violet Bengaline that would make a great 
>> 1770's suit embrodierd in Ribbons ala Bjarne.  And let's not even 
>> look at the wools, I need a new 1840's great coat in a LOUD plaid.  
>> They have orange and pink velvet for some thing Teddy might wear.  
>> AND AND AND
>>
>> HELP!!!!
>>
>> The shell shocked Stephen Bergdahl
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Status: RO

Hi Steven,
What are you selling at these faires? Is it your embroidery?
I have had succes to sell 4 embroideries lately for ladies purses, and it is 
only for people i know on some embroidery lists. I plan to make many more 
and take with me when i go to the gustavians, hopefully i will be able to 
sell some to the ladies there.
Embroidery is what i do best, and i have as a matter of fact ben thinking 
about giving up the costumes, and only make embroidery. But then again it is 
rather drastic to say that i wont make any more costumes, deep inside of me, 
i know that i will be making more :-)
There is a shop here in Denmark where they sell beautifull taffetas, and in 
colours that are to die for. But unfortunately they are very expensive, it 
is a shop that sells silks for all the people who goes to party's with our 
queen, and therefore their collektion is huge, and prices high.
Is there a place where we can see your light blue cavalier style? I would 
love to see it.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 7:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good News


> Yes I know Bjarne.
>
> A polyester suit is a bad idea.  Even if I was just going to wear it 
> indoors.  But those colors are just so wonderful.  I am leaning more 
> towards a new Elizabethain.  In silk and cotton velvet, seeing I will be 
> selling at a number of faires next year I should have something spiffy to 
> wear.
>
> Stephen
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> Hi Steven,
>> Now i found out what bengaline is, but seriously when you have won such a 
>> price, it would be a shame to make a suit of polyester Steven, even that 
>> the colours are lovely, but seriously.........
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Bergdahl" 
>> <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>; 
>> <margospatterns@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 6:46 AM
>> Subject: [h-cost] Good News
>>
>>
>>> I have to brag!
>>> It seem that I won this weeks $100 Shopping Spree at Fabric.Com.  Still 
>>> in shock and now I have to figure out what to spend it on.  I've got a 
>>> dozen ideas all screaming at me.  Do I remake, "The Baby Blue Cavalier" 
>>> (Remember the first one Regina?) or make some new Renn Faire clothes in 
>>> real silk and cotton velvet.  Or they have some real red silk for a drop 
>>> dead Byzantine and use up all those pearls that my bead freak Mother 
>>> keeps giving me, not that I'm complaining.  There is the Celery and 
>>> Violet Bengaline that would make a great 1770's suit embrodierd in 
>>> Ribbons ala Bjarne.  And let's not even look at the wools, I need a new 
>>> 1840's great coat in a LOUD plaid.  They have orange and pink velvet for 
>>> some thing Teddy might wear.  AND AND AND
>>>
>>> HELP!!!!
>>>
>>> The shell shocked Stephen Bergdahl
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 


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I sew a lot with Bengaline and like it.  No, it is not a natural fiber, but when you are in a pinch it not only suffices but excels if used in period appropriate styles.  The fabric that I have used has a very slight ribbed texture, and is close to faille in appearance, maybe a smidge heaveir.  The material holds up to rough wear at events and such, and dry cleans beautifully.  I have never tried to machine wash it, but have been told that it holds up well in the wash also.  
 
You guys can just go ahead and laugh now....
 
My very first piece of real period style garb was an Elizabethan gown that I made with a pattern that I based on a Period Pattern pattern, their patterns of course not even remotely fitting me.  I was very cash strapped, and had no idea of where I was going to come up with 10 yards or thereabouts of fabric.  I sat in my parlor, and my eyes traveled to the draperies that had been left by the previous owner - yards and yards of a dusty rose bengaline with black tie backs and valances.  The parlor looked much nicer with just the lace sheers, and I wound up with a lovely bodice, skirt and hat.  The dining room drapes went next, also out of bengaline.  I made a gown for myself, and an outfit for a daughter out of those drapes.
 
I am not sure where the inspiration came from, Gone With the Wind or the Sound of Music, but either way, the bengaline worked great.
 
:)
~Kimberley
 
-----Original Message-----
From: AnnBWass@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 11:44:04 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good News


 
In a message dated 7/27/2005 9:10:20 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

What  
is Bengaline, havent got a clue?



Since no one has replied yet--it is one of the crosswise ribbed fabrics  
(originally made from silk, of course), similar to faille and grosgrain.   There 

is an order of these fabrics from fine ribs to fatter ones, but I  don't 
remember exactly how they fall.  I think bengaline is one of the  fatter ones.  
Also, I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I  believe some of 
these 
have "stuffers" to make the ribs fatter.
 
Ann Wass 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (was Good News)
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On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 chindora@aol.com wrote:

> I sew a lot with Bengaline and like it.  No, it is not a natural
> fiber...

Sometimes it is. I am wearing a dress of burgundy silk bengaline here:
http://www.barony-of-arnhold.org/gothicdress1.htm

More views on page 2.

However, it turned out to be a spun silk rather than a reeled silk (though
the appearance was quite smooth and lustrous, more than you'd expect from
a spun silk). As a result it wore badly in areas that got a lot of
rubbing, such as under the arms. I replaced it a few years ago with a red
wool dress lined with linen.

--Robin


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Actually Bjarne I sell Enchanted Frogs and Period Toys.  Here is our web 
site I just got it up and running. 

http://home.earthlink.net/~ribbit-tat/Start_Page.html

I wish you luck selling your embroiderys they are lovely and well worth 
the price.  Now for those of you interested I placed the order with 
Fabric.com.  I got for my prize:

5 Yards of Burn Orange Cotton Velvet
Yard of Dark Olive Cotton Velvet
Yard of Emerald Silk Dupion
3 Yards Sage Green Linen
Yard of Silk Dupion in a Check of Pink, Mint Green, and Yellow

The orange and the greens are going to be my new merchant costume for 
selling at faires.  Haven't decided if I am going to trim the Orange in 
the silk or the velvet.  Whichever doesn't become trim will be the hat.  
The Sage Green is for the doublet lining.  And the Check is for a new 
1840's vest for Sutter's Fort.  That should turn a few heads.

Stephen

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi Steven,
> What are you selling at these faires? Is it your embroidery?
> I have had succes to sell 4 embroideries lately for ladies purses, and 
> it is only for people i know on some embroidery lists. I plan to make 
> many more and take with me when i go to the gustavians, hopefully i 
> will be able to sell some to the ladies there.
> Embroidery is what i do best, and i have as a matter of fact ben 
> thinking about giving up the costumes, and only make embroidery. But 
> then again it is rather drastic to say that i wont make any more 
> costumes, deep inside of me, i know that i will be making more :-)
> There is a shop here in Denmark where they sell beautifull taffetas, 
> and in colours that are to die for. But unfortunately they are very 
> expensive, it is a shop that sells silks for all the people who goes 
> to party's with our queen, and therefore their collektion is huge, and 
> prices high.
> Is there a place where we can see your light blue cavalier style? I 
> would love to see it.
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Bergdahl" 
> <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 7:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good News
>
>
>> Yes I know Bjarne.
>>
>> A polyester suit is a bad idea.  Even if I was just going to wear it 
>> indoors.  But those colors are just so wonderful.  I am leaning more 
>> towards a new Elizabethain.  In silk and cotton velvet, seeing I will 
>> be selling at a number of faires next year I should have something 
>> spiffy to wear.
>>
>> Stephen
>>
>> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Steven,
>>> Now i found out what bengaline is, but seriously when you have won 
>>> such a price, it would be a shame to make a suit of polyester 
>>> Steven, even that the colours are lovely, but seriously.........
>>>
>>> Bjarne
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Bergdahl" 
>>> <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
>>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>; 
>>> <margospatterns@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 6:46 AM
>>> Subject: [h-cost] Good News
>>>
>>>
>>>> I have to brag!
>>>> It seem that I won this weeks $100 Shopping Spree at Fabric.Com.  
>>>> Still in shock and now I have to figure out what to spend it on.  
>>>> I've got a dozen ideas all screaming at me.  Do I remake, "The Baby 
>>>> Blue Cavalier" (Remember the first one Regina?) or make some new 
>>>> Renn Faire clothes in real silk and cotton velvet.  Or they have 
>>>> some real red silk for a drop dead Byzantine and use up all those 
>>>> pearls that my bead freak Mother keeps giving me, not that I'm 
>>>> complaining.  There is the Celery and Violet Bengaline that would 
>>>> make a great 1770's suit embrodierd in Ribbons ala Bjarne.  And 
>>>> let's not even look at the wools, I need a new 1840's great coat in 
>>>> a LOUD plaid.  They have orange and pink velvet for some thing 
>>>> Teddy might wear.  AND AND AND
>>>>
>>>> HELP!!!!
>>>>
>>>> The shell shocked Stephen Bergdahl
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
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I  do wish you well, _and_ plenty of 
rest!!!  Remember to take care of  Mom, Nancy  :o )


 
Thank you for this information, but I hasten to add that I needed it for  
someone else, thank goodness.
 
Nancy
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval garb for nursing mothers
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Hooks and eyes also worked well on the openings for my
undergowns with a sideless surcoat.

Angharad
--- Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote:

> A friend of mine swore by sideless surcoats. She'd
> slit the neckline of
> the undertunic, making flaps which velcro'd closed.
> When baby fussed, she
> would open the flap, and discretely nurse under the
> surcoat.
> 
> Arlys
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 27 17:33:44 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (was Good News)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 23:33:36 +0200
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <chindora@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (was Good News)


>I sew a lot with Bengaline and like it.  No, it is not a natural fiber, but 
>when you are in a pinch it not only suffices but excels if used in period 
>appropriate styles.  The fabric that I have used has a very slight ribbed 
>texture, and is close to faille in appearance, maybe a smidge heaveir.  The 
>material holds up to rough wear at events and such, and dry cleans 
>beautifully.  I have never tried to machine wash it, but have been told 
>that it holds up well in the wash also.
>
> You guys can just go ahead and laugh now....
>
> My very first piece of real period style garb was an Elizabethan gown that 
> I made with a pattern that I based on a Period Pattern pattern, their 
> patterns of course not even remotely fitting me.  I was very cash 
> strapped, and had no idea of where I was going to come up with 10 yards or 
> thereabouts of fabric.  I sat in my parlor, and my eyes traveled to the 
> draperies that had been left by the previous owner - yards and yards of a 
> dusty rose bengaline with black tie backs and valances.  The parlor looked 
> much nicer with just the lace sheers, and I wound up with a lovely bodice, 
> skirt and hat.  The dining room drapes went next, also out of bengaline. 
> I made a gown for myself, and an outfit for a daughter out of those 
> drapes.
>
> I am not sure where the inspiration came from, Gone With the Wind or the 
> Sound of Music, but either way, the bengaline worked great.
>
> :)
> ~Kimberley

Hi Kimberley,
I am not laughing, and i must confes that also i have ben inspired by this 
Bengaline. Besides i also dream of making a costume in watered "silk" wich 
also only comes in polyester or rayon.
And i was mostly thinking about hot weather and polyester, you can die of 
heat in that, but for winter use, it would be ok.
And then i also sometimes think, that it is only us freaks that notice these 
things, i believe that the majority of reenactors dont know about these 
things At least when i talk about the gustavians in Sweden. I think that it 
only is about 1/5 th of them who makes costumes, the rest buys costumes and 
dont know about fabrics.

Bjarne 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 27 17:54:19 2005
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Thread-Topic: New Martha McCain Simplicity Pattern
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] New Martha McCain Simplicity Pattern
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The new Simplicity patterns for Autumn 2005 are online and # 4400 is
another Civil War era dress by Martha McCain. The pic is small but
appears to have two sleeve variations and has a many button front long
pointed bodice.

As an aside, is Butterick patterns just behind everyone else(even Vogue
whose Fall pattern catalog came out recently)or is going out of
business. The latest book from them is still Summer whereas everyone
else is at least early Fall/Autumn patterns.

For Star Wars fans, there are two or three patterns that appear to be
costumes from the first movie(Episode 4), but may have been in the
latest film--I haven't seen that one yet.

In November, those on the list who go to the Star Wars films to check
out the costumes, may be interested in a pricey book "Costuming a
Universe" with Natalie Portman on the cover in one of Queen Amidala's
more extravagant costumes--guess Darth Vader or Han Solo doesn't
consitute fantasy costume eye candy. 

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Angharad ver' Reynulf
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 4:26 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval garb for nursing mothers

Hooks and eyes also worked well on the openings for my undergowns with a
sideless surcoat.

Angharad
--- Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote:

> A friend of mine swore by sideless surcoats. She'd slit the neckline 
> of the undertunic, making flaps which velcro'd closed.
> When baby fussed, she
> would open the flap, and discretely nurse under the surcoat.
> 
> Arlys
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 27 18:30:48 2005
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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Am I period or not
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At 09:02 AM 7/27/2005, you wrote:
>Really, the only valid critique of an outfit (or many other things) is 
>whether the creator met the goal they were trying to meet. And how can 
>anyone do that if they don't know the goal?
>
>Fran


Thank you Fran for stating what should be the obvious, and reminding me of 
something I often forget in my recreation attempts. I really have to 
remember to set a specific goal for my garments from now on.

Kimiko


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 27 18:37:49 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (was Good News)
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In a message dated 7/27/2005 2:33:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

And i  was mostly thinking about hot weather and polyester, you can die of 
heat  in that, but for winter use, it would be ok.



<smiling>
 
Maybe I should have told you first that I live in Florida, and have worn  
those outfits down here in this heat and humidity for years.  Oh, granted,  real 
silk would have been much nicer, I am sure, but I was never miserable in my  
synthetic bengaline.  And anyway, it does not matter WHAT you wear down  here, 
you are going to be hot.  I have found that as long as I can stay in  the 
shade, and keep a breeze up my skirt by slowly walking, that I do  fine.
 
:)
~Kimberley
(who drools helplessly over Bjarne's creations just like the rest of you  
guys.)
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 27 19:19:47 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] French hood gold 
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Hi all,

I am working on a French hood c.1545, and I was wondering if anyone had any 
suggestions for the gold "goffering" (is that the right term?) that is 
usually found on the hood? It's that gold ribbon or something that is in 
the front part of the crest, not the jewels which I understand are called 
billiments.

I read one instruction set that calls for pleating organza by hand and 
pressing by iron, but that sounds tedious and not quite the right look. To 
my eye it looks more of a set pattern crinkle in an up and down pattern, 
not really pleated as in a knife pleat, if that makes sense. But I am kinda 
stumped as to how to go about doing this. I already have gold organza to 
pleat, so I am not looking to find ribbon already done up, unless I really 
have to.

And fwiw, I am basing my French hood on Princess Elizabeth's portrait,
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/kideliz.jpg
with hopefully similar jewel billiment set from Mary Tudor Brandon's 
wedding portrait.
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/marytudor.jpg

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good News


> 
> 
> Actually Bjarne I sell Enchanted Frogs and Period Toys.  Here is our web 
> site I just got it up and running. 
> 
> http://home.earthlink.net/~ribbit-tat/Start_Page.html
> 
> I wish you luck selling your embroiderys they are lovely and well worth 
> the price.  Now for those of you interested I placed the order with 
> Fabric.com.  I got for my prize:
> 
> 5 Yards of Burn Orange Cotton Velvet
> Yard of Dark Olive Cotton Velvet
> Yard of Emerald Silk Dupion
> 3 Yards Sage Green Linen
> Yard of Silk Dupion in a Check of Pink, Mint Green, and Yellow
> 
> The orange and the greens are going to be my new merchant costume for 
> selling at faires.  Haven't decided if I am going to trim the Orange in 
> the silk or the velvet. 

Ooh, trim it in the silk. Velvet makes such lovely hats.

But either way sounds scrumptious!!

Dianne


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A friend of mine is starting a costume related website and asked if I would
post to the group.

Terri Casey



Hi all!

 

Please forgive the bandwidth, but I need people to beta test this website
and see if they find bugs. 

 

http://www.costumerating.com  

 

Thanks!!!!

Lee

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Kimiko Small wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> I read one instruction set that calls for pleating organza by hand and 
> pressing by iron, but that sounds tedious and not quite the right look. 

I used wired christmas ribbon on mine. It was very easy to pleat exactly 
the way I wanted it, and it stays in place. :)



Dawn


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I think the site owner should tell people only to post pictures of their 
own creations, and those which the creator has given them permission to 
post. Both for copyright reasons (note:  the copyright to a photo 
belongs to the photographer, who may not be the costumer), and to help 
keep it from becoming a site for everybody trashing everyone they are 
jealous of or personally dislike.  Yes, maybe the site owner can't keep 
everyone from illegally posting some photos, but they can at least say 
this is an issue.

Also, as for the "Am I Period" site, asking people to post a few 
sentences about what they were trying to do with the costume, and about 
anything specific they want critiqued, might keep people from putting up 
others' pictures without permission.  And it would help people give 
better critiques.

Basically, it is a good idea to have the names of the people who posted 
the photos, the names of the costumes, and the names of everyone who 
gives critiques, publicly displayed.  Sure people can create false IDs, 
but it's something of a deterrent.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Terri wrote:

>A friend of mine is starting a costume related website and asked if I would
>post to the group.
>
>Terri Casey
>
>
>
>Hi all!
>
> 
>
>Please forgive the bandwidth, but I need people to beta test this website
>and see if they find bugs. 
>
> 
>
>http://www.costumerating.com  
>
> 
>
>Thanks!!!!
>
>Lee
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>  
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Martha McCain Simplicity Pattern
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In a message dated 7/27/2005 5:54:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu writes:

is  Butterick patterns just behind everyone else(even Vogue
whose Fall pattern  catalog came out recently)or is going out of
business. The latest book from  them is still Summer whereas everyone
else is at least early Fall/Autumn  patterns.



Hadn't heard anything about their going out of business, but you know they  
were taken over by McCall's a few years ago.  So maybe they just stagger  their 
release dates.
 
And yes, the new Simplicity Martha McCain pattern is very nice. There is  
also a visiting dress coming out--it is made up in bright purple for the  
envelope.
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 18:46:33 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Martha McCain Simplicity Pattern
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At 06:42 PM 7/27/2005, you wrote:
>And yes, the new Simplicity Martha McCain pattern is very nice. There is
>also a visiting dress coming out--it is made up in bright purple for the
>envelope.


Is that #4510? Because if it is, that one came out a month or so ago as I 
bought it from Hancock's in June. Lovely dress, even if it is shiny purple 
(not my color).

Kimiko


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From: Pam Dotson <dotsontwo@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Off to Turin
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I'm off to Turin, Italy early Friday morning.  I haven't yet read my guidebooks, I think I'll do that on the flight(s) over.  Does anyone know of anything textile related that I shouldn't miss?  I mean, of course, other than the famous Shroud, which if it is a fake, is still several hundred years old, and if it's not...it's even older.  I'll be checking my email most days, so if there are any suggestions, even in the middle of the time I'm there (one week) I should get them.  Thank you very much!

Pam Dotson


		
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood gold 
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>Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Find somebody with a pleating machine like they use pleating up fabric for 
smocking, and do your pleating on that.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Went to the site. You have some spelling errors. Thought you might want to
know.

"All of our Frogs and other items are ..... so that each on(e) ..... can be
loved by either Adults or Children."

"We stock the finest col(l)ection of Fairy Bottles to be found and our..."

Nice site. :)

De



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood gold 
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> I read one instruction set that calls for pleating organza by hand and
> pressing by iron, but that sounds tedious and not quite the right look. To
> my eye it looks more of a set pattern crinkle in an up and down pattern,
> not really pleated as in a knife pleat, if that makes sense. But I am
kinda
> stumped as to how to go about doing this. I already have gold organza to
> pleat, so I am not looking to find ribbon already done up, unless I really
> have to.

Hi Kimiko, I'm pretty sure it's simply accordian pleated, so it might be
easiest to fold the fabric up like one would for paper. Does anyone remember
making paper fans as children? Sort of like the parchemtn fan of some
queen/empress or other that is still in a museum somewhere.
You fold the paper back, edges parallel, then turn it over and fold to the
same line. Repeat to the end. For the fan you'd fold the folded paper int he
middle and tape the touching edges of course;)

If the fabric is a sheer gold, then in period it would have been made with a
good deal of real metal. I have some metal organza that forms very sharp
creases and folds and would not require much ironing to create accordian
pleats at all. So I can imagine with more metal this becomes easier. My
crinkle metal organza has more metal and holds those crinkles like crazy!

So it may come down to choosing a nice sheer fabric with a real metal
componant and making tiny folds, using the fingernail to crease.

Or there may be some something akin to pletaing tape made for very fine
accordian pleats.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com

> And fwiw, I am basing my French hood on Princess Elizabeth's portrait,
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/kideliz.jpg
> with hopefully similar jewel billiment set from Mary Tudor Brandon's
> wedding portrait.
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/marytudor.jpg



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <6.2.1.2.0.20050727160721.035a9f80@64.87.54.245>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood gold 
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 09:57:24 +0200
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Hi Kimiko,
I have seen some danish peassants hats/hoods that has such a finely pleated 
band made of lace.
They also show how this was pleated that way. They used small sticks. Place 
one stick under and one over - one under and one over etc. While the lace is 
wet and starched. When dry, it is finely pleated like this.
How about using matches for this purpose?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <margospatterns@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 1:19 AM
Subject: [h-cost] French hood gold


> Hi all,
>
> I am working on a French hood c.1545, and I was wondering if anyone had 
> any suggestions for the gold "goffering" (is that the right term?) that is 
> usually found on the hood? It's that gold ribbon or something that is in 
> the front part of the crest, not the jewels which I understand are called 
> billiments.
>
> I read one instruction set that calls for pleating organza by hand and 
> pressing by iron, but that sounds tedious and not quite the right look. To 
> my eye it looks more of a set pattern crinkle in an up and down pattern, 
> not really pleated as in a knife pleat, if that makes sense. But I am 
> kinda stumped as to how to go about doing this. I already have gold 
> organza to pleat, so I am not looking to find ribbon already done up, 
> unless I really have to.
>
> And fwiw, I am basing my French hood on Princess Elizabeth's portrait,
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/kideliz.jpg
> with hopefully similar jewel billiment set from Mary Tudor Brandon's 
> wedding portrait.
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/marytudor.jpg
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kimiko
>
> Kimiko Small
> http://www.kimiko1.com
> Fresno, CA, USA
>
> "Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
> Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
> Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
>  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 28 06:22:55 2005
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Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 17:55:00 -0700
From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Am I period or not
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Status: RO

Everyone has goals for pretty much everything whether they are 
consciously aware of them or not.

As for the obvious, this is something people are always forgetting in 
criticism.  For example, that a historical film is intended to be 
entertainment, not an educational event--how many times have you seen 
people slam a film because "the costumes aren't accurate"?  Personally, 
I think that's the best way to tell whether a review of any product  is 
by an amateur or a professional. The professional reviews something on 
whether it meets the creator's stated goals, the amateur just reacts to 
whether they personally liked it.

As for this site, having people state a goal might be a barrier to 
putting up other people's pictures without their permission just for the 
fun of seeing other people's work trashed. If they're required to frame 
a statement about "what I intended when I made this costume," many may 
balk at claiming it's actually their work when it is not.

Fran
Lavolta Press

Kimiko Small wrote:

>
> Thank you Fran for stating what should be the obvious, and reminding 
> me of something I often forget in my recreation attempts. I really 
> have to remember to set a specific goal for my garments from now on.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (was Good News)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 23:25:00 +1200
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> I sew a lot with Bengaline and like it.  No, it is not a natural fiber,
but when you are in a pinch it not only suffices but excels if used in
period appropriate styles.  The fabric that I have used has a very slight
ribbed texture, and is close to faille in appearance, maybe a smidge
heaveir.  The material holds up to rough wear at events and such, and dry
cleans beautifully.  I have never tried to machine wash it, but have been
told that it holds up well in the wash also.


Bengaline refers to the weave not the fibre, and in fact refers to Bengal.
In the 19thC was used in many garments.

http://www.bharattextile.com/dictionary/118
First made in Bengal, India. Ribs raised and rounded. Often has wool or
cotton dilling [sic]* in the ribs which doesn't show. Difficult to make
bound buttonholes in it. Has a tendancy to slip at the seams if too tightly
fitted. Grosgrain and Petersham is bengaline cut to ribbon widths.

http://www.retrodress.com/suit74.html
Silk bengaline suit, has a closeup near a button to show the weave.


I just recently did a search for it as I suspected it was used for one of
the Star Wars prequel costumes. I'm still pretty sure it was bengaline or
other crosswise ribbed silk fabric.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com


* I thought this might have been a fabric term I hadn't heard of before,
beacuse it shows up in so many online textile sites... nope, just seems to
be that they all copied from the same source;)



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bustle pictures
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 13:34:52 +0200
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Hi Deredere,
Congratulations with your bustle dress, even it is not finished yeat.
What a lovely dress, and love the embroidered corset.
Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 10:43 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Bustle pictures


> Mmmm... I feel a bit like a Nanny or a school teacher...
> It looks a stif.
> Probably just a bit to simple for my taste.
>
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html
>
> There is still a lot of work to do on the bodice to get it right.
> Have to take out the sleeves again since they are stil not looking right.
> And it looks like I have huge shoulder muscles :-) .
>
> I am planning on making a nice little straw hat to make the look complete.
>
> Greetings,
>       Deredere
>
>
>
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (was Good News)
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Well now, I am thrilled to have been set straight.  Back in the dark ages, 
after I made my first gown, I went to a high end fabric store here in town and 
asked if they had any silk bengaline, because I had heard that it was also 
available in "real" silk.  When I got to the store and asked the clerk if they had 
any bengaline, she snipped at me that they did not carry any lower end 
synthetic fabrics.  She curled her lip and suggested that I try someplace like 
JoAnn's, the condecension thick in her voice, so I never looked into the matter 
further.  Thanks to everyone for the info.  I will post some links to me in a 
couple of my bengaline gowns when I get a chance.

:)
~Kimberley
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 28 07:42:11 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (was Good News)
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Hi Kimberley,
I know these kind of people in silk fabric shops. When i went to the special 
silk fabric shop we have here in Denmark, i was aware that the prices was 
huge. But i had saved a lot of money from a trip to Portugal, and had a lot 
left when i got home. I aimed to use these money in this shop.
They had never seen me before so i also got a strange look when i arrived. 
But you should have seen their eyes when i ordered 7 meters of the sky blue 
duchesse satin i made the suit for.
Bad thing is that i never will forget those lovely other fabrics they had, 
and i am afraid that i have to go back for more some day................

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Chindora@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (was Good News)


> Well now, I am thrilled to have been set straight.  Back in the dark ages,
> after I made my first gown, I went to a high end fabric store here in town 
> and
> asked if they had any silk bengaline, because I had heard that it was also
> available in "real" silk.  When I got to the store and asked the clerk if 
> they had
> any bengaline, she snipped at me that they did not carry any lower end
> synthetic fabrics.  She curled her lip and suggested that I try someplace 
> like
> JoAnn's, the condecension thick in her voice, so I never looked into the 
> matter
> further.  Thanks to everyone for the info.  I will post some links to me 
> in a
> couple of my bengaline gowns when I get a chance.
>
> :)
> ~Kimberley
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (with Star Wars digression)
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michaela wrote:

> I just recently did a search for it as I suspected it was used for one of
> the Star Wars prequel costumes. I'm still pretty sure it was bengaline or
> other crosswise ribbed silk fabric.

You know about this site, right?  http://www.padawansguide.com/  Lots of 
screen shots, details, & info about making the costumes.

Chindora@aol.com wrote:

 > any bengaline, she snipped at me that they did not carry any lower end
 > synthetic fabrics.  She curled her lip

Goes to show that everyone doesn't know everything.  I've had the 
hardest time getting the idea across to my mother that "percale" doesn't 
mean just cotton, it's a weave.  And I'm sure there are new sewers out 
there who think that "linen" is only a weave/coarseness style, because 
that's what's on the bolts.

... although my most memorable high-end fabric store interaction was 
eavesdropping on someone describe how accomplished she was with medieval 
costuming to a clerk, and she needed a particular sort of frilly lace 
fabric for one of these projects.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

It stressed the "negative effects" of long hair on "human intelligence 
development", noting that long hair "consumes a great deal of nutrition" 
and could thus rob the brain of energy.  -- BBC about a public-education 
campagin in N. Korea
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (was Good News)
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> Well now, I am thrilled to have been set straight.  Back in the dark ages,
> after I made my first gown, I went to a high end fabric store here in town
and
> asked if they had any silk bengaline, because I had heard that it was also
> available in "real" silk.  When I got to the store and asked the clerk if
they had
> any bengaline, she snipped at me that they did not carry any lower end
> synthetic fabrics.  She curled her lip and suggested that I try someplace
like
> JoAnn's, the condecension thick in her voice, so I never looked into the
matter
> further.  Thanks to everyone for the info.  I will post some links to me
in a
> couple of my bengaline gowns when I get a chance.

Cool:) I've had some very bad advice from behind the counter people as well.
Like how I should bleach my ilk chiffon to remove the dye but couldn't iron
it.

Good thing I did know silk was destroyed by bleach really;) I didn't iron
it, but that was because the super crinkle was ideal for the purpose I
bought it for:)

It's pretty annoying when the people selling the goods often don't know what
you are after.

Ooh, wouldn't it be nice if she decided to relate the tale to someone else
who set her straight;)

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (with Star Wars digression)
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> > I just recently did a search for it as I suspected it was used for one
of
> > the Star Wars prequel costumes. I'm still pretty sure it was bengaline
or
> > other crosswise ribbed silk fabric.
>
> You know about this site, right?  http://www.padawansguide.com/  Lots of
> screen shots, details, & info about making the costumes.

Oh yes, I know Maggie quite well:) There is no description of the fabric of
that particular gown on her site though:) I love the costume myself, but am
not looking to recreate it.

I'm still hunting around looking for other crosswise ribbed silks that it
could be. I don't know if the core of the ribbing is cotton/wool or silk.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (was Good News)
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In a message dated 7/27/2005 5:33:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

And i  was mostly thinking about hot weather and polyester, you can die of 
heat  in that, but for winter use, it would be ok.



If we can stand one more "thread" on fibers/fabrics--not all  
manmade/synthetic fabrics are the same, either.  Those curtains might very  well have been 
rayon, or a rayon/acetate blend. I've seen home decorating ribbed  fabrics made 
of these fibers.  And rayon, of course, being cellulose, like  cotton, won't 
make you swelter. If fact, it absorbs moisture even better than  cotton, hence 
the fact that it also wrinkles like crazy.  Acetate, though,  being chemically 
modified cellulose, is not as comfy in hot humid weather.   Many synthetic 
satins and taffetas are also made out of acetate, although  polyester seems to 
be gaining ground.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] 1870 hat stuf
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Hi,

I made my own hat!
I took an old hat made out of straw bands and took it appart to make a 
hat to go with my bustle gown.
But I was wondering if the purple ribbon would be to colour coordinated.
Schould I put more stuf on it?
Like ribbons or flowers?
The dress is very simple...

Would this hairstyle be ok for that time period?
I need to keep it out of the way of my bowstring.

http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html

Deredere



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (was Good News)
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Quoting AnnBWass@aol.com:

> If we can stand one more "thread" on fibers/fabrics--not all
> manmade/synthetic fabrics are the same, either.  Those curtains might 
> very  well have been
> rayon, or a rayon/acetate blend. I've seen home decorating ribbed  
> fabrics made
> of these fibers.  And rayon, of course, being cellulose, like  cotton, won't
> make you swelter. If fact, it absorbs moisture even better than  
> cotton, hence
> the fact that it also wrinkles like crazy.  Acetate, though,  being 
> chemically
> modified cellulose,

Thanks for the "One More Thread."  I didn't know that about acetate!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Fran wrote:
> As for this site, having people state a goal might be a barrier to
> putting up other people's pictures without their permission just for the
> fun of seeing other people's work trashed. If they're required to frame
> a statement about "what I intended when I made this costume," many may
> balk at claiming it's actually their work when it is not.

After seeing what happened at the old AIPON, I think that this is a
fine and lovely thing :)

-Irmgart

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I, too, know how haughty clerks can be at high-end fabric stores. I used to
visit one located near my office (it has since moved, so I haven't been
there in years). I couldn't afford the printed cottons! The clerks were the
most disdainful men and women I've ever met. But I did get to see some
pearled white satin that cost $400 a yard.

Is faille the same thing as bengaline? Because I distinctly remember this
store selling faille.

Gail Finke

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> > the fact that it also wrinkles like crazy.  Acetate, though,  being
> > chemically
> > modified cellulose,
>
> Thanks for the "One More Thread."  I didn't know that about acetate!

Yeah I recently read about this as I was doing a search on the history of
man made fibres. I was trying to find the earliest one in production. I knew
elasic is older than we generally thinkabout, but wasn't sure when man made
fibres appeared.

http://www.fibersource.com/f-tutor/cellulose.htm
http://www.apparelsearch.com/Definitions/Fiber/acetate_definition.htm
Probably more than you want to know;)

michaela
http://glittersweet.com




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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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I preordered from Amazon.com  Dressing a Galaxy: the costumes of Star
Wars. Their price is $31.50 and since the book is still over $25.00, I
chose Free Super Saver Shipping. For the serious(and moneyed)Star Wars
and/or costuming fan, there is a special edition of the book with a DVD
on the costumes and their creation for $295.00.

With the three last films(haven't seen the last one yet)it is simply fun
to pick out all the historical and cultural references within especially
Amidala's costumes.

Cindy Abel

 

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: acetateRe: [h-cost] Bengaline (was Good News)
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Quoting michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>:

>> > the fact that it also wrinkles like crazy.  Acetate, though,  being
>> > chemically
>> > modified cellulose,
>>
>> Thanks for the "One More Thread."  I didn't know that about acetate!
>
> Yeah I recently read about this as I was doing a search on the history of
> man made fibres. I was trying to find the earliest one in production. I knew
> elasic is older than we generally thinkabout, but wasn't sure when man made
> fibres appeared.
>
> http://www.fibersource.com/f-tutor/cellulose.htm
> http://www.apparelsearch.com/Definitions/Fiber/acetate_definition.htm
> Probably more than you want to know;)
>

Oh, I don't know that I'd say that.  While all I wanted to be able to 
do was to
be able to identify my Trillium photos, I'm finishing up a PhD.  Obsessive
about knowledge?  Who me?  Nah -- these are not the droids that you're looking
for.

Jerusha, the "old lady" grad student
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Is there an online TOC to this journal (with page numbers)?  My library 
doesn't
have it (yet?), but I can ILL things .....  [The anglo-saxon book they have,
but it's out on loan to a Faculty member for a *year*]

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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In a message dated 7/28/2005 9:58:03 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:

Acetate,  though,  being 
> chemically
> modified  cellulose,




Yeah, if you REALLY want to know, it is acetylated cellulose.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Holiday in Rome & Venice
>...and then on to Venice for me, where I have long wanted to visit
the Murano Glass makers, and a "working" boatyard building Gondolas,
and the historic Arsenale - or at least the parts open to the Public,
- which was the world's first "production-line shipyard".

Cant help you with Rome. I'm still on the way home from Venice (and
other parts of Italy).
Galleria della Accadmia... wowie zowie. Get there 1st thing in the AM
or stand in line. Only ~300 permitted in museum at one time. Photos
WITHOUT flash are ok. Take a tripod.  You'll love the Carpaccios.

Dinner: go out the door of the Accademia, turn left & left. Straight
down that walkway, is a Trattoria. Pretty tasty and a whole lot better
& authentic that the touristy places 'round San Marco.  When dining,
avoid Ristorante in favor of Osteria & Trattoria if you want to try
local specialities.  I love Italy. Every trip is 1/2lb gained per day.
Dee-lish!

Churches -- Have Madame take a thin silk scarf to cover shoulders. 
You'll impress the staff, then they let you take more pics.

Speaking of fabric: Ca' Mocenigo is quite small, but they do have 3
Burano lace 16th c collars, some 15th & 16th fabrics and eccleastical
things. Not much really. I enjoyed it, but the PItti Palace collection
in Florence is much better. Photos "senza flash" OK. Ask. Have tripod
handy it's quite dim.  A polarizing filter will reduce much of the
glare off the cases. Wish I'd had one.

The Centro Studio... Tessuti (fabric study center) is Italian only, by
appointment.  I failed to have a specific question handy and dont
speak Italian.

Palazzo Ducale -- Take the passagio segreto (secret passages) tour.
Must book a week ahead. We failed to book early enough. In Florence,
the passagio segreto tour in the Palazzo Vecchio was our favorite part
of that city.

Murano Glass -- I did it last week with a professional guest glass
artist. We were hugely disappointed by everything by the glass museum.
Truthfully, the Met here in NYC has more & better 15th & 16th murano
glass. (Really & truly. I just saw it yesterday.)  Frankly, it's not
worth the ride out on the boat.

Speaking of boats, dont get taken in by the taxi-boat drivers who love
to tell tourists that there's a vaporetto strike.  It'll cost you
80euro for the ride in.  Study up on local transport. Venice Card,
Alilaguna & Vaporetto are words to google.

Buon Viaggio!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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> Is there an online TOC to this journal (with page numbers)?  My
> library doesn't have it (yet?), but I can ILL things .....  [The
> anglo-saxon book they have, but it's out on loan to a Faculty member
> for a *year*]

If an ISBN number will help: 1843831236

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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In a message dated 7/28/2005 11:14:13 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu writes:

Dressing  a Galaxy: the costumes of Star
Wars. Their price is $31.50 and since the  book is still over $25.00, I
chose Free Super Saver  Shipping.


Gee, thanks.  Just what I needed, another book I HAVE to have!
 
Ann Wass
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On Thu, 28 Jul 2005, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> Is there an online TOC to this journal (with page numbers)?  My
> library doesn't have it (yet?), but I can ILL things .....  [The
> anglo-saxon book they have, but it's out on loan to a Faculty member
> for a *year*]

Here's the publisher's page with the TOC. If you need page numbers for a
specific article, write me directly.
http://www.boydell.co.uk/43831236.HTM

Amazon also is selling it for $32.97, which is better than the discount I
can offer. But I would expect that individuals typically would buy it only
if several of the individual essays are on topics of personal interest, or
if they're buying for a group library.

--Robin



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bengaline
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On Thu, 28 Jul 2005, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> Is faille the same thing as bengaline? Because I distinctly remember
> this store selling faille.

They're on the same spectrum of ribbed fabrics. I'm not sure what the
"official" difference is, but from what I've seen, there's probably more
than one definition -- meaning one person's "faille" is another's
"bengaline." And ditto for "shantung."

Best to just ask for "a finely ribbed fabric" if you don't really care
what the label is and you're looking for the type/texture.

In my case, I bought my bengaline (faille? shantung?) off the discount
silk table at Vogue in Chicago in, hmm, 1988 or so, and I was just
looking for silk, not that particular weave necessarily.

 --Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bengaline (with Star Wars digression)
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At 05:03 AM 7/28/2005, you wrote:
>I'm still hunting around looking for other crosswise ribbed silks that it
>could be. I don't know if the core of the ribbing is cotton/wool or silk.


Silk Shantung has fine crosswise ribs. Not sure what the core is either.

Kimiko


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Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 14:03:39 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Clothing and Textiles
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Book Recall,  if your library offers it, is a wonderful thing.   My 
university has 2 copies of Flury Lemburg... and there are 3 reseaerchers 
here on campus (that includes me) that are perpetually playing "hand it 
over" with one another.

Mari  :>

>Is there an online TOC to this journal (with page numbers)?  My library 
>doesn't
>have it (yet?), but I can ILL things .....  [The anglo-saxon book they have,
>but it's out on loan to a Faculty member for a *year*]
>
>Susan

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10507281157200.14168-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bengaline
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 20:10:07 +0200
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Hi,
As i have told you before i was so lucky to get some real silk ribbed 
fabrics in London some years ago. It is still not finished, but it is the 
suit i embroider with silk ribbon.
I baught every yard they had. I dont know why, but originally they were 140 
cm wide, but they had cut them in half, so that it only was 70 cm. wide.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/setasilkpaint.htm
Schroll down to the bottom, and there are some closeups of the weave.
Dont know if this could be Bengaline?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bengaline


>
> On Thu, 28 Jul 2005, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
>
>> Is faille the same thing as bengaline? Because I distinctly remember
>> this store selling faille.
>
> They're on the same spectrum of ribbed fabrics. I'm not sure what the
> "official" difference is, but from what I've seen, there's probably more
> than one definition -- meaning one person's "faille" is another's
> "bengaline." And ditto for "shantung."
>
> Best to just ask for "a finely ribbed fabric" if you don't really care
> what the label is and you're looking for the type/texture.
>
> In my case, I bought my bengaline (faille? shantung?) off the discount
> silk table at Vogue in Chicago in, hmm, 1988 or so, and I was just
> looking for silk, not that particular weave necessarily.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 14:03:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1st Regency
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Hi -
>
> There's an event coming up in early September for which I'd like to make
> my first regency gown, c1815. I'm interested in authenticity (will
> gladly sacrifice modern notions of what is flattering to acheive it).
> I'll be drafting everything myself.
>
> Does anyone have advice on the following:
>
> 1) As a matron of, ahem, mature years, I'm planning on making a corset.
> Though it dates to a bit later, I thought I might go with the more
> substantial corset as seen in the Kyoto Museum
> http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/1819stay.jpg) instead of the Corset á
> Ninon (http://www.regencygarderobe.com/First%20Decade%20corsetry.htm).
> Any comments on that one?

Hope,

I made a corset of the same style you are talking about at Costume College
last year.  (For those who don't know, Costume College is a weekend full
of classes and events for costumers--it is held each summer in Los
Angeles) I took an all day class from a lady and finished about 75% of it.
 It needed a little adjusting, but it came out pretty good.  One word of
advice, though....make the corset ALL white or ivory.  Do NOT add colored
accents of any kind.  I put lavender bias tape around the edges and it can
be seen through my gauzy white dress.  Obviously I have to change it but
haven't gotten the motivation yet ;~>

The corset is very comfortable, just like it is supposed to be.  It isn't
supposed to squoosh you into an unnatural form.  It is supposed to lift
and separate "the girls" and just sort of smooth everything else out.  My
busk is too long which makes sitting a little difficult, so try to avoid
making the busk go below your hip line.

> This would probably mean making the gown white cotton. Would that be OK
> for a ball gown, especially for someone my age?

Ball gowns usually weren't white and were probably made out of more
expensive fabrics.  If you are trying to portray a lady of wealth and
society, you may want to try to make two different gowns.  They really
don't take long and it will probably be easier to make another dress than
to make a spencer anyway.

> 4) Since the local Joann's is woefully limited when it comes to fine
> cottons, I was going to order some from online (Farmhouse Fabrics? any
> otheres?). Which is lighter: lawn or batiste? Recommendations either way?

I think lawn is lighter than batiste.  I sell it on my website for
$5.60/yd and it is very soft.  It is also very see-through.  So maybe lawn
or shirting on the outside and muslin for the lining?

> (For a future day gown I was wondering if this would be appropriate:
> http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Shopper_id=94847281015469484&Store_id=198&page_id=23&Item_ID=8294)

You betcha!  I made my recent Regency out of something very similar.  I
can send you a picture if you like.  Mine was a nylon material but it
certainly gives the right look.  It is very sheer so I used a shirting
material (that has small stripes woven into it) as the lining fabric.  It
came out very nice.  And I strategically placed the embroidered flowers on
the bodice and sleeves to give it a great look.

Well, I didn't answer all of your questions but I hope that I helped
somewhat ;~>

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1st Regency
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Hi -

There's an event coming up in early September for which I'd like to make 
my first regency gown, c1815. I'm interested in authenticity (will 
gladly sacrifice modern notions of what is flattering to acheive it). 
I'll be drafting everything myself.

Does anyone have advice on the following:

1) As a matron of, ahem, mature years, I'm planning on making a corset. 
Though it dates to a bit later, I thought I might go with the more 
substantial corset as seen in the Kyoto Museum 
http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/1819stay.jpg) instead of the Corset á 
Ninon (http://www.regencygarderobe.com/First%20Decade%20corsetry.htm). 
Any comments on that one?

2) Under the corset will go the linen shift, of course, but over that 
I'll need a petticoat. I'm a bit confused by some of the websites I've 
been visiting: were period petticoats shaped like the gowns that went 
over them, that is, with a small sleeveless bodice, like a slip? Would 
you recommend linen or cotton?

3) The event has some day events and a ball in the evening. Since there 
isn't much time, though, I was hoping I could "cheat" by making a gown 
that could be used for the ball, but making a spencer or pelisse to 
cover it up, and wearing a chemisette to disguise it further. (I'll swap 
a bonnet for a turban, too.) The two examples I'm leaning towards are:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/02-1810walkingspencer.jpg
or
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/01-acandace-1815-2-yes.jpg

This would probably mean making the gown white cotton. Would that be OK 
for a ball gown, especially for someone my age?

4) Since the local Joann's is woefully limited when it comes to fine 
cottons, I was going to order some from online (Farmhouse Fabrics? any 
otheres?). Which is lighter: lawn or batiste? Recommendations either way?

(For a future day gown I was wondering if this would be appropriate:
http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Shopper_id=94847281015469484&Store_id=198&page_id=23&Item_ID=8294)

5) Since this event is in the context of the 1815 Battle of Plattsburgh, 
New York (http://www.battleofplattsburgh.com/main.html) I was wondering 
if I should be focusing on styles from a few years earlier. How up to 
date do you think a well-to-do lady from New York, Philadelphia, or 
Boston would be?

So many questions! But this group is always so helpful!!

Thanks.

- Hope


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Hope Greenberg wrote:


> 
> 5)  How up to 
> date do you think a well-to-do lady from New York, Philadelphia, or 
> Boston would be?
> 

Quite up to date under those circumstances. Philadelphia was THE modern 
city of the time, and residents of the eastern seaboard prided 
themselves on being just as civilized and advanced as any european city, 
if not more so, given the 'Great Experiment' of democratic government 
going on in America. European fashion publications could be had in those 
cities with a month or two of release. Trade and travel across the 
Atlantic was thriving. Factory production of textiles in America had 
just begun in 1814, so you're still importing 99% of your fabric from 
Europe, but it's cheap. After the 2nd War of Independence ended (1812) 
all kinds of goods got dumped cheap, because they'd been hoarded during 
the conflict. So yeah, no excuse for a lady to not have the latest and 
best fashions.


Dawn


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In a message dated 7/28/2005 4:29:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:

Since  this event is in the context of the 1815 Battle of Plattsburgh, 
New York  (http://www.battleofplattsburgh.com/main.html) I was wondering 
if I should  be focusing on styles from a few years earlier. How up to 
date do you  think a well-to-do lady from New York, Philadelphia, or 
Boston would  be?




I agree that big city American women were very up to date--and probably not  
so big city women tried to be, too.  We have had some debates on the  subject, 
but I think American women, at least here in the Mid-Atlantic, looked  more 
to France than England, too.  Friends could send fashion plates in  letters.  
In the very early 19th c., a man in New York subscribed to one of  the 
magazines and charged women a small fee to come in and see the fashion  plates.
 
Many extant garments in collections show evidence of being re-modeled,  often 
likely to keep up with changing fashions.
 
Ann Wass  
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I'm interested too...but for Renaissance.  We see beautifully decorated hats at Ren Faires, but I don't think I've ever seen big decorated straw hats in pictures - just plain ones.
Julie

> 
> I made my own hat!
> I took an old hat made out of straw bands and took it appart to make a 
> hat to go with my bustle gown.
> But I was wondering if the purple ribbon would be to colour coordinated.
> Schould I put more stuf on it?
> Like ribbons or flowers?
> The dress is very simple...

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I'm interested too...but for Renaissance.  We see beautifully decorated hats at Ren Faires, but I don't think I've ever seen big decorated straw hats in pictures - just plain ones.
Julie

> 
> I made my own hat!
> I took an old hat made out of straw bands and took it appart to make a 
> hat to go with my bustle gown.
> But I was wondering if the purple ribbon would be to colour coordinated.
> Schould I put more stuf on it?
> Like ribbons or flowers?
> The dress is very simple...

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Very nice project. I wonder why you didn't include the fullness and 
depth of the drape in the fashion plate though. But as you say, the 
gown is simple and if that's what you're going for....go for it! It's 
lov-er-ly. The hat is perfect too.

Isn't it sorta funny how in this period you see bias pleated ruffles 
and the draped overskirts cut on the straight all the time?  Even when 
the fabric is a solid color. If the ruffle were on the straight it 
would pleat better [the gowns I've seen will line the bias ruffle to 
stiffen it, thus rendering the bias cut useless....unless of course it 
has a pattern that you want on the bias like the check in your dress. 
But like I said they do this even with solids] And the draped overskirt 
would drape more gracefully if on the bias rather than the straight. 
Curiouser and curiouser......

-----Original Message-----
From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 15:38:32 +0200
Subject: [h-cost] 1870 hat stuf

  Hi,

 I made my own hat!
  I took an old hat made out of straw bands and took it appart to make a 
hat to go with my bustle gown.
  But I was wondering if the purple ribbon would be to colour 
coordinated.
 Schould I put more stuf on it?
 Like ribbons or flowers?
 The dress is very simple...

 Would this hairstyle be ok for that time period?
 I need to keep it out of the way of my bowstring.

 http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html

 Deredere


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In a message dated 7/28/2005 4:29:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:

Under  the corset will go the linen shift, of course, but over that 
I'll need a  petticoat. I'm a bit confused by some of the websites I've 
been visiting:  were period petticoats shaped like the gowns that went 
over them, that is,  with a small sleeveless bodice, like a slip? Would 
you recommend linen or  cotton?

3) The event has some day events and a ball in the evening.  Since there 
isn't much time, though, I was hoping I could "cheat" by  making a gown 
that could be used for the ball, but making a spencer or  pelisse to 
cover it up, and wearing a chemisette to disguise it further.  (I'll swap 
a bonnet for a turban, too.) The two examples I'm leaning  towards  are:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/02-1810walkingspencer.jpg
or
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/01-acandace-1815-2-yes.jpg

This  would probably mean making the gown white cotton. Would that be OK 
for a  ball gown, especially for someone my age?



The petticoat is a separate undergarment.  However, some of the more  sheer 
dresses have what is described as a "slip," but we would call an  underdress, 
either in a vivid color or a peach/pink, to look skin-toned.   What of the 
questions I don't know the answer to is, would one have also worn a  petticoat 
under such a slip?
 
You can also make detachable long sleeves, as well as a chemisette, for the  
"day" look, and then remove them for evening.  A spencer would also be a  good 
coverup for daytime, and, by all means, swap headgear. It can be of a dark  
colored silk or wool in colder weather.
 
White does seem to have been worn by all ages.  I have used white  Swiss 
cotton batiste (hideously expensive!), and have also had good luck with  Indian 
cotton curtains with a heavier woven pattern--the Restoration Hardware  ones w
ere great; the Target ones, while cheaper, I'm not as happy with.   But I wear 
one of these dresses, with long sleeves, and a colored fichu,  colored gloves a 
and coordinating bonnet for day.  For evening, I  wear a turban, leave off 
the fichu, wear my good cameo jewelry, white kid  gloves, and a fan.
 
I contend that mixing and matching for day into evening looks was probably  
rather common in the early 19th century, even among the fairly well-to-do.   
Most people just did not have a lot of clothes.  I have fun switching  spencers, 
shawls, bonnets, turbans, reticules, gloves, chemisettes, shoes, and  boots 
to change the look of my basic dresses.
 
Look at the Old Sturbridge Village website, _www.osv.org_ 
(http://www.osv.org) , cat. #26.33.166, for an early 19th  century dress with its own matching 
tucker (or chemisette) and detachable  sleeves.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1st Regency
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 16:57:48 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Depends on your sense and comfort with what would be fashionable to a "matron of mature years" Are you, or your character, a person of means to keep up with fashion, with at least a maid to help you dressa la Dolly Madison, or are you someone more comfortable with the fashions of your youth and have no maid and too much to do to fuss much with fashionable attire? Or do you adopt "present-day" fashions to suit what looks best or is easy to do for you? Jane Austen adopted headgear as early as her 30's as it saved her much time in hairdressing and had to be coaxed into having her hair done by a male hairdresser. Although she got many compliaments, she wrote she "longed for my snug cap" Dolly Madison, preferred fashionable bright colors and the latest in turbans, in counterpoint to the clothing of her Quaker youth. 

Older women might wear more fashionable clothing, but cling to the support of the stays(corsets)that they had worn since girlhood. Also many women of all ages, wore the "Empire/Regency" fashionable mode, whether it was flattering or not, as with any fashion. And of course a mature figure then, could wear the high-waisted fashions and be thought a fine figure of a female, whereas now, only anorexia-like figures are thought attractive in the stereotypical "Regency" gown.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Hope Greenberg
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 3:27 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 1st Regency

Hi -

There's an event coming up in early September for which I'd like to make my first regency gown, c1815. I'm interested in authenticity (will gladly sacrifice modern notions of what is flattering to acheive it). 
I'll be drafting everything myself.

Does anyone have advice on the following:

1) As a matron of, ahem, mature years, I'm planning on making a corset. 
Though it dates to a bit later, I thought I might go with the more substantial corset as seen in the Kyoto Museum
http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/1819stay.jpg) instead of the Corset á Ninon (http://www.regencygarderobe.com/First%20Decade%20corsetry.htm). 
Any comments on that one?

2) Under the corset will go the linen shift, of course, but over that I'll need a petticoat. I'm a bit confused by some of the websites I've been visiting: were period petticoats shaped like the gowns that went over them, that is, with a small sleeveless bodice, like a slip? Would you recommend linen or cotton?

3) The event has some day events and a ball in the evening. Since there isn't much time, though, I was hoping I could "cheat" by making a gown that could be used for the ball, but making a spencer or pelisse to cover it up, and wearing a chemisette to disguise it further. (I'll swap a bonnet for a turban, too.) The two examples I'm leaning towards are:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/02-1810walkingspencer.jpg
or
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/01-acandace-1815-2-yes.jpg

This would probably mean making the gown white cotton. Would that be OK for a ball gown, especially for someone my age?

4) Since the local Joann's is woefully limited when it comes to fine cottons, I was going to order some from online (Farmhouse Fabrics? any otheres?). Which is lighter: lawn or batiste? Recommendations either way?

(For a future day gown I was wondering if this would be appropriate:
http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Shopper_id=94847281015469484&Store_id=198&page_id=23&Item_ID=8294)

5) Since this event is in the context of the 1815 Battle of Plattsburgh, New York (http://www.battleofplattsburgh.com/main.html) I was wondering if I should be focusing on styles from a few years earlier. How up to date do you think a well-to-do lady from New York, Philadelphia, or Boston would be?

So many questions! But this group is always so helpful!!

Thanks.

- Hope


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 28 21:12:47 2005
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BF0E63FB.18569%gailscott@eos.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bengaline
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 12:53:29 +1200
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> Is faille the same thing as bengaline? Because I distinctly remember this
> store selling faille.

I'm pretty sure it's not. I seem to recall a discussion about the
differences between ribbed silks a while back..... not sure where though.

I have polyester faille, and the warp threads are the same fibre as the weft
just heavier, you can also see the weft. In bengaline the filling is
completely disguised, so I'm pretty sure the weaving has to be different.

http://www.apparelsearch.com/

faille  a somewhat shiny/lustrous closely woven silk, rayon, or cotton
fabric characterized by slight ribs in the weft.  Finer than gros grain but
in that family - ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain.   Some belongs to
the crepe family.  It is rather difficult to launder.  Will give good wear
if handled properly

bengaline a fabric with a crosswise rib made from textile fibers (as rayon,
nylon, cotton, or wool) often in combination.  Crosswise rib, warp faced.
First made of silk in Bengal, India. Ribs are round and raised.   Often has
wool or cotton dilling in the ribs which doesn't show.  Difficult to make
bound buttonholes in it.  Has a tendency to slip at the seams if too tightly
fitted.  Grosgrain and Petersham is bengaline cut to ribbon widths.  The
cloth is usually 40" wide.  Cotele - A French term for bengaline made from a
silk or rayon warp and worsted filling which is given a hard twist

So it seems that bengaline usually uses a filler in the weft and has a warp
face, thus concealing the filling.
ottoman  heavy in weight - larger rib than both faille and bengaline.  Very
pronounced flat ribs in the filling direction.   Ribs are made by a cotton,
worsted, silk, or rayon filling which does not show on either the face or
the back, because the warp covers the filling entirely.  Is called Ottoman
Cord or Ottoman rib when a warp rib is employed.  Fabric is stiff and connot
be gathered or shirred.  Like other ribbed fabrics, it has a tendency to
slip at the seams and crack, so it cannot be fitted too tightly.



This seemed to give the best descriptions of fabrics.



michaela de bruce

http://glittersweet.com





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At 12:57 AM 7/28/2005, you wrote:
>Hi Kimiko,
>I have seen some danish peassants hats/hoods that has such a finely 
>pleated band made of lace.
>They also show how this was pleated that way. They used small sticks. 
>Place one stick under and one over - one under and one over etc. While the 
>lace is wet and starched. When dry, it is finely pleated like this.
>How about using matches for this purpose?
>
>Bjarne


That's an interesting low-tech way to pleat things. Thanks for sharing 
that. I will see if I can find appropriate matches (I don't think matchbook 
types would work.)

Kimiko


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At 08:59 PM 7/27/2005, you wrote:
>Find somebody with a pleating machine like they use pleating up fabric for 
>smocking, and do your pleating on that.


I only know of one person locally that has a pleater, and she's on vacation 
till September. :-(

Kimiko


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At 12:21 AM 7/28/2005, you wrote:
>So it may come down to choosing a nice sheer fabric with a real metal
>componant and making tiny folds, using the fingernail to crease.
>
>Or there may be some something akin to pletaing tape made for very fine
>accordian pleats.
>
>michaela de bruce


Hi Michaela,

The gold organza I have has metal in it, but the fabric is not holding the 
creases without some heat.

I've been informed there is a doll makers tiny pleating board available 
that would do the trick. I've also found hair irons - micro crimpers that 
also might do the trick. There is one with variable heat settings. I just 
can't find either locally, but have internet sites found if I have to order 
them. I just wish most sites would have better images so I can see what 
size the crimps are at.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1870 hat stuf
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> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html
> I made my own hat!
> I took an old hat made out of straw bands and took it appart to make a
> hat to go with my bustle gown.

I'm in the middle of remaking a large straw hat into something more suitable
for the 16thC. The crown is too tall and too square as it is, but I have
only got to the unravelling stage;)

> But I was wondering if the purple ribbon would be to colour coordinated.
> Schould I put more stuf on it?
> Like ribbons or flowers?
> The dress is very simple...

If you look at the bottom of this page
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/1870s1.htm
and the top of this page
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/1880s1.htm
you should see some nice examples of hats and bonnets of the time period you
are doing. There is generally a bit more fluffiness.. and if I could just
find the links page for the victorian links which seems to have completely
fallen offline.... Anyway, Tara had a page on hats and bonnets from exactly
the time you are doing, but I cannot find it as the links page has gone down
and there are no links to it elsewhere.


> Would this hairstyle be ok for that time period?
> I need to keep it out of the way of my bowstring.

It's actually rather a later hairstyle than you are after. The good news is
that the hair could be tidied away to keep safe from your bowstring.

http://demode.tweedlebop.com/hair_natural.html
There are some very pretty styles there that would work well with the style
of hat and dress you have made:) And some that are similar to what you have
done, but in an earlier style.

regards,
micahela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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I searched the New York Public Library Digital Collection using "dress" and 
1815" and  got about 9 of 12 period fashion plates. (The other three were 
later.) If this helps!

http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital

You could argue that if these prints made it to New York, they would also 
make it to whereever.

For example, I've been meaning to sort through my heaps of papers to 
determine which British fashion journal was the source for an account of 
the latest fashions in a 1814 Montreal newspaper. Depending on what kind of 
person you were and your personal interests, I believe fashions could be 
transmitted quite quickly.

Sheridan Alder



At 04:26 PM 7/28/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi -
>
>There's an event coming up in early September for which I'd like to make 
>my first regency gown, c1815. I'm interested in authenticity (will gladly 
>sacrifice modern notions of what is flattering to acheive it). I'll be 
>drafting everything myself.
>
>Does anyone have advice on the following:
>
>1) As a matron of, ahem, mature years, I'm planning on making a corset. 
>Though it dates to a bit later, I thought I might go with the more 
>substantial corset as seen in the Kyoto Museum 
>http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/1819stay.jpg) instead of the Corset á 
>Ninon (http://www.regencygarderobe.com/First%20Decade%20corsetry.htm). Any 
>comments on that one?
>
>2) Under the corset will go the linen shift, of course, but over that I'll 
>need a petticoat. I'm a bit confused by some of the websites I've been 
>visiting: were period petticoats shaped like the gowns that went over 
>them, that is, with a small sleeveless bodice, like a slip? Would you 
>recommend linen or cotton?
>
>3) The event has some day events and a ball in the evening. Since there 
>isn't much time, though, I was hoping I could "cheat" by making a gown 
>that could be used for the ball, but making a spencer or pelisse to cover 
>it up, and wearing a chemisette to disguise it further. (I'll swap a 
>bonnet for a turban, too.) The two examples I'm leaning towards are:
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/02-1810walkingspencer.jpg
>or
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/01-acandace-1815-2-yes.jpg
>
>This would probably mean making the gown white cotton. Would that be OK 
>for a ball gown, especially for someone my age?
>
>4) Since the local Joann's is woefully limited when it comes to fine 
>cottons, I was going to order some from online (Farmhouse Fabrics? any 
>otheres?). Which is lighter: lawn or batiste? Recommendations either way?
>
>(For a future day gown I was wondering if this would be appropriate:
>http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Shopper_id=94847281015469484&Store_id=198&page_id=23&Item_ID=8294)
>
>5) Since this event is in the context of the 1815 Battle of Plattsburgh, 
>New York (http://www.battleofplattsburgh.com/main.html) I was wondering if 
>I should be focusing on styles from a few years earlier. How up to date do 
>you think a well-to-do lady from New York, Philadelphia, or Boston would be?
>
>So many questions! But this group is always so helpful!!
>
>Thanks.
>
>- Hope
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1870 hat stuf
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On Thursday 28 July 2005 9:38 am, Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I made my own hat!
> I took an old hat made out of straw bands and took it appart to make a
> hat to go with my bustle gown.

It looks great!  Nice job!

> But I was wondering if the purple ribbon would be to colour coordinated.
> Schould I put more stuf on it?
> Like ribbons or flowers?  
[snip]

You certainly could...but I've seen very plain period bonnets and hats also.  
I think you should leave this one as it is.  

>
> Would this hairstyle be ok for that time period?
> I need to keep it out of the way of my bowstring.
>
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html

My recollection of 1870s hair styles is that they were generally pulled back, 
away from the face (except for perhaps a fringe of curls along the forehead) 
and cascaded down the back of the head in curls, many of which were 
hairpieces.  I think your style is generally fine, though I would pull the 
hair back a bit more tightly from my face for less of a poofy, pompadoured 
"Gibson Girl" effect.  

Tuese illustrations from the 1875 issue of Peterson's magazine may give you a 
better idea of what I'm trying to say (illustrations courtesy of the 
Victorian section of Jennifer Thompson's "Featured Attyre" site):

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/victorian/p75/feb1.html

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/victorian/p75/oct4.html

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/victorian/p75/nov1.html

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/victorian/p75/jun2.html

Looking at these, I see that you might also want to give your hair an overall 
permanent for more waves and body, to better simulate the period look.  Have 
fun experimenting!



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Byzantine women's clothing
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I apologize if someone else has already posted this -- I'm a little behind  
on my e-mails -- but I liked the Levantia website: _www.levantia.com/au_ 
(http://www.levantia.com/au) . I think they're a  little bit earlier than 14th 
Century, but it's somewhere to  start. I acquired a bunch of references for 
Byzantium recently by  pestering this list, but as I was researching an earlier 
period, most of them  probably won't apply. I'll look through my list of references 
again and see if I  have anything you'd want.
 
Tea Rose

From: Lynda  Boots <primevalooze@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Byzantium women's  clothing

Hi,

I'm helping a friend research women's apparel in  14th
C. Byzantium.  Anything not ecclesiastical or for a
coronation  would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Lynda




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood gold 
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Bjarne wrote:
>>They also show how this was pleated that way. They used small sticks. 
>>Place one stick under and one over - one under and one over etc. While the 
>>lace is wet and starched. When dry, it is finely pleated like this.
>>How about using matches for this purpose?
Kimiko replied:
> That's an interesting low-tech way to pleat things. Thanks for sharing 
> that. I will see if I can find appropriate matches (I don't think 
> matchbook types would work.)

Wooden toothpicks would work as well as matchsticks, and are available in 
every supermarket.
               -Helen/Aidan

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Would one of those "perfect pleaters" work, the kind Clothilde sells, or are the pleats not small enough?  That might be a pretty fast and easy way to do it, I would think...
 
KP


Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
At 08:59 PM 7/27/2005, you wrote:
>Find somebody with a pleating machine like they use pleating up fabric for 
>smocking, and do your pleating on that.


I only know of one person locally that has a pleater, and she's on vacation 
till September. :-(

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Clothing and Textiles
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Status: RO

But I would expect that individuals typically would buy it only
if several of the individual essays are on topics of personal interest, or
if they're buying for a group library.

I was talking to Boydell & Brewer today (placing last minute Pennsic order) and they said it's selling quite well.  My response was that I hoped that meant that I hoped on the next one they would increase your budget for photos and color plates.

Janet
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On Fri, 29 Jul 2005, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:

> I was talking to Boydell & Brewer today (placing last minute Pennsic
> order) and they said it's selling quite well.  My response was that I
> hoped that meant that I hoped on the next one they would increase your
> budget for photos and color plates.

You and me both! Gale and I don't have much say in the matter of photos.
Color images will require a separate grant (something we're targeting for
a special issue a few years down the line). As for b/w images, we have a
limit on the number of halftones per volume. (In fact, for a couple of the
images in my own article, I had actually gotten permission from the
holding library to use photos and had purchased the transparencies, but we
were over our volume allotment, so I had to do redrawings instead anyway.)

We do try to make sure there are footnotes pointing people to better views
of images where possible (in other books or online).

What surprised me most on Vol. 1 was that the designer made some of the
images so small, particularly as we had specified that some of them needed
to be larger to show necessary detail. I have had a specific request
approved for some larger images in Volume 2 (which is already in the
publisher's hands -- we're assembling Vol. 3 now). So, with luck we will
get a bit more bang per halftone buck. Cross your fingers.

--Robin





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood gold 
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At 09:23 PM 7/28/2005, you wrote:
>Wooden toothpicks would work as well as matchsticks, and are available in 
>every supermarket.
>               -Helen/Aidan


The only toothpicks I seem to find are the round ones with plasticy things 
on the ends. I will have to see if I can find more square ones. Thanks for 
the suggestion.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood gold 
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At 09:38 PM 7/28/2005, you wrote:
>Would one of those "perfect pleaters" work, the kind Clothilde sells, or 
>are the pleats not small enough?  That might be a pretty fast and easy way 
>to do it, I would think...
>
>KP


Hi KP,

Thanks for the suggestion. Our fiber guild has one of those, and I looked 
at it to see, and 1, it is too large a pleat, and 2, it does knife pleats, 
not crimped pleats, which is what I am looking to do. Really fine crimped 
pleats.

Someone on a different list suggested a doll pleater tool, called a Pretty 
Pleater. It comes in 3 sizes and it just may do the trick.
http://danneruff.com/pleater.htm
pic of the 3 pleaters here: http://danneruff.com/pleat.htm
They suggest using a fusible backing to hold the pleats in place.

Also on that other list was a suggestion for a hair crimper, and I found a 
micro crimper that has different levels of heat control, and it seems to be 
really small, but I haven't found one locally yet to really tell. Online 
photos are small.

Then there's the wooden stick method that has an appeal as well, and a few 
other suggestions. I may be testing a few ideas to see what works well.

Kimiko


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Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 09:32:52 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] No Subject
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I think the fashion for piling stuff on your hat came later than the Renaissance. For straw hats, just a simple hatband would be appropriate.
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> jtknits@jtknits.cts.com 29/07/2005 00:19 >>>

I'm interested too...but for Renaissance.  We see beautifully decorated hats at Ren Faires, but I don't think I've ever seen big decorated straw hats in pictures - just plain ones.
Julie

> 
> I made my own hat!
> I took an old hat made out of straw bands and took it appart to make a 
> hat to go with my bustle gown.
> But I was wondering if the purple ribbon would be to colour coordinated.
> Schould I put more stuf on it?
> Like ribbons or flowers?
> The dress is very simple...

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Kimiko Small wrote:
> That's an interesting low-tech way to pleat things. Thanks for sharing 
> that. I will see if I can find appropriate matches (I don't think 
> matchbook types would work.)
> 

	Matches might be too small. When I made my Danish day dress (which has 
a tulle cap with a ruffle pleated this way), I made a long frame sorta 
like a picture frame and cut a bunch of 1/4" wood dowels. I wanted to 
use straws, but they weren't sturdy enough. then with the tulle wet I 
anchored one end to the frame and wound it over a stick on top of the 
frame, then under a stick beneath the frame, then over a stick on top of 
the frame... until the length of the ruffle was all wound in and then I 
let it dry. After it's dry and you take it off the dowels, you can 
gather it in a little tighter (assuming you ran a gather thread before 
you started pleating) to fit along the edge you need. Apparently this 
was the method used at least in the 1860s for ruffling.

          -Judy Mitchell
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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
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What a great idea!!!  Thank you so much for sharing Judy.
 
Chris G.

Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net> wrote:
Kimiko Small wrote:
> That's an interesting low-tech way to pleat things. Thanks for sharing 
> that. I will see if I can find appropriate matches (I don't think 
> matchbook types would work.)
> 

Matches might be too small. When I made my Danish day dress (which has 
a tulle cap with a ruffle pleated this way), I made a long frame sorta 
like a picture frame and cut a bunch of 1/4" wood dowels. I wanted to 
use straws, but they weren't sturdy enough. then with the tulle wet I 
anchored one end to the frame and wound it over a stick on top of the 
frame, then under a stick beneath the frame, then over a stick on top of 
the frame... until the length of the ruffle was all wound in and then I 
let it dry. After it's dry and you take it off the dowels, you can 
gather it in a little tighter (assuming you ran a gather thread before 
you started pleating) to fit along the edge you need. Apparently this 
was the method used at least in the 1860s for ruffling.


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Byzantine women's clothing
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Yeah, Levanita is good, but earlier than the 14th century. I'm on the road this week, but I'll take a look at my resources and see what I can find early next week. 
--
Eirene Tzimiskina Kontostephanina


> I apologize if someone else has already posted this -- I'm a little behind  
> on my e-mails -- but I liked the Levantia website: _www.levantia.com/au_ 
> (http://www.levantia.com/au) . I think they're a  little bit earlier than 14th 
> Century, but it's somewhere to  start. I acquired a bunch of references for 
> Byzantium recently by  pestering this list, but as I was researching an earlier 
> period, most of them  probably won't apply. I'll look through my list of 
> references 
> again and see if I  have anything you'd want.
>  
> Tea Rose
> 
> From: Lynda  Boots <primevalooze@yahoo.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Byzantium women's  clothing
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm helping a friend research women's apparel in  14th
> C. Byzantium.  Anything not ecclesiastical or for a
> coronation  would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Lynda
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Kimiko Small wrote:
> At 09:23 PM 7/28/2005, you wrote:
> 
>> Wooden toothpicks would work as well as matchsticks, and are available 
>> in every supermarket.
>>               -Helen/Aidan
> 
> 
> 
> The only toothpicks I seem to find are the round ones with plasticy 
> things on the ends. I will have to see if I can find more square ones. 
> Thanks for the suggestion.
> 
> Kimiko

or you might try wooden skewers (like for kebabs). They are longer than 
matchsticks or toothpicks and might be easier to hang on to. I think the 
ones I have in a drawer are actually bamboo and were sold in the chinese 
section of some grocery store.

liz young

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I am making a late 15th century Italian dress, of the fitted bodice, 
gathered or pleated skirt, and contrasting sleeves variety (like the 
ones described on this website and seen in this painting).
http://www.geocities.com/kamillavh/01.html
http://tinyurl.com/aoyzd (birth of St. John the Baptist by Domenico 
Ghirlandaio (particularly the woman reaching out for the baby or the 
servant in the red dress and green sleeves)).

I have made several fitted bodices over the years of this type and 
always have the same problem. Unless I use a shaped center back seam, 
the bodice gaps at the center back neckline and sometimes at the center 
back waist. I have very pronounced shoulder blades and a sway back.
If I want to have a center back seam, then I can eliminate the gapping. 
But if I do not (for some reason) want a c/b seam, is there some fitting 
technique I am missing?

This time, I added a c/b seam to my original draft. I took 2 inches 
total from the neckline, tapering to nothing at the level of the bottom 
of the armscye, and then an inch from the waist, again tapering to 
nothing at the armscye.
This bodice ends just above my natural waist and has a center front 
opening. It has slanted side back seams. It is very similar to the 
bodice draft seen on Drea's site:
http://costume.dm.net/kirtlepat/kirtlepat.jpg

Thanks
liz young


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From: ladysarafina@att.net (Sarafina Sinclair)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bodice fit question
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 16:21:01 +0000
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Liz,

I have a sway back as well. I think the answer is using side front seams. All of my garb has the back on the straight, both with and without CB seams, and I don't have that problem at all. You can use the side front seams to shape the bodice to you and eliminate the gapping.

Hope that helps.

Sarafina
--
The Honourable Lady Sarafina Sinclair, CE 
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net 



-------------- Original message from Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>: -------------- 


> I am making a late 15th century Italian dress, of the fitted bodice, 
> gathered or pleated skirt, and contrasting sleeves variety (like the 
> ones described on this website and seen in this painting). 
> http://www.geocities.com/kamillavh/01.html 
> http://tinyurl.com/aoyzd (birth of St. John the Baptist by Domenico 
> Ghirlandaio (particularly the woman reaching out for the baby or the 
> servant in the red dress and green sleeves)). 
> 
> I have made several fitted bodices over the years of this type and 
> always have the same problem. Unless I use a shaped center back seam, 
> the bodice gaps at the center back neckline and sometimes at the center 
> back waist. I have very pronounced shoulder blades and a sway back. 
> If I want to have a center back seam, then I can eliminate the gapping. 
> But if I do not (for some reason) want a c/b seam, is there some fitting 
> technique I am missing? 
> 
> This time, I added a c/b seam to my original draft. I took 2 inches 
> total from the neckline, tapering to nothing at the level of the bottom 
> of the armscye, and then an inch from the waist, again tapering to 
> nothing at the armscye. 
> This bodice ends just above my natural waist and has a center front 
> opening. It has slanted side back seams. It is very similar to the 
> bodice draft seen on Drea's site: 
> http://costume.dm.net/kirtlepat/kirtlepat.jpg 
> 
> Thanks 
> liz young 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Elizabeth Young wrote:

>  
> I have very pronounced shoulder blades and a sway back.
> If I want to have a center back seam, then I can eliminate the gapping. 
> But if I do not (for some reason) want a c/b seam, is there some fitting 
> technique I am missing?

You could try taking darts along the top of the neckline in order to 
produce a curve that fits you, like wise along the waist. Personally, I 
think using the CB seam is going to be the best way to get you a good 
looking fit, even if the style doesn't normally have one, because of 
your unique fitting issues.



Dawn



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From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi all, I have a question that is only sort of costume related, but
more of a language question.

Background I'm making a series of dolls as close to 16th century
art/artifacts and records as I can.  My base sources include the basic
doll history books that I am not sure if the authors are British or
American, and therefore I ask this question.

Is bran a generic term used to refer grain of various types or is it a
specific grain type?

The context is that the dolls' cloth or leather bodies were filled with
bran or sawdust.  While I can get the sawdust, right at the moment I
don't have the quanity I need for the several dolls I'm putting
together in the next two weeks.

and to add costume content, I making making several historical outfits
for these dolls, from an 1503 Spanish gown, 1530's German, 1550 English
and 1570's Italian for just a few of them.  

alex



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul 29 12:42:19 2005
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] bodice fit question
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 11:41:52 -0500
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Have you tried asking on one of these three sites?
sca_italiano@yahoogroups.com
SCAItaliano@yahoogroups.com
Italian_Renaissance_Costuming@yahoogroups.com
There are 4 locations wear the bodice can be seam. Back, side back, front
and side.

You probably have seen this but just in case not,
http://members.fortunecity.com/cadieuxx/florentine.html
she has a contact link.
Hope this helps,
De


-----Original Message-----

I am making a late 15th century Italian dress, of the fitted bodice,
gathered or pleated skirt, and contrasting sleeves variety (like the
ones described on this website and seen in this painting).
http://www.geocities.com/kamillavh/01.html
http://tinyurl.com/aoyzd (birth of St. John the Baptist by Domenico
Ghirlandaio (particularly the woman reaching out for the baby or the
servant in the red dress and green sleeves)).

I have made several fitted bodices over the years of this type and
always have the same problem. Unless I use a shaped center back seam,
the bodice gaps at the center back neckline and sometimes at the center
back waist. I have very pronounced shoulder blades and a sway back.
If I want to have a center back seam, then I can eliminate the gapping.
But if I do not (for some reason) want a c/b seam, is there some fitting
technique I am missing?

This time, I added a c/b seam to my original draft. I took 2 inches
total from the neckline, tapering to nothing at the level of the bottom
of the armscye, and then an inch from the waist, again tapering to
nothing at the armscye.
This bodice ends just above my natural waist and has a center front
opening. It has slanted side back seams. It is very similar to the
bodice draft seen on Drea's site:
http://costume.dm.net/kirtlepat/kirtlepat.jpg

Thanks
liz young


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Technically speaking, the bran would have been a waste product left over from processing grain. It would be what was left after cleaning and winnowing. It wouldn't have been the whole grain (wheat, barley, whatever). I suppose you could pop out to the store and buy a box of bran (not bran cereal, just the bran) but it would be easier (and less expensive) to go to your local Lowes, Home Depot, etc and just ask them if you can have the leavings of their wood sawing area. They might look at you a little funny, but I'm sure they'd be happy to get rid of it.


Just a thought,

Karen
Seamstrix

-- Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Hi all, I have a question that is only sort of costume related, but
more of a language question.

Background I'm making a series of dolls as close to 16th century
art/artifacts and records as I can.  My base sources include the basic
doll history books that I am not sure if the authors are British or
American, and therefore I ask this question.

Is bran a generic term used to refer grain of various types or is it a
specific grain type?

The context is that the dolls' cloth or leather bodies were filled with
bran or sawdust.  While I can get the sawdust, right at the moment I
don't have the quanity I need for the several dolls I'm putting
together in the next two weeks.

and to add costume content, I making making several historical outfits
for these dolls, from an 1503 Spanish gown, 1530's German, 1550 English
and 1570's Italian for just a few of them.  

alex



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bran
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Bran is fed to horse in the form of a mash for a light feeding. You can get bran  at a feed store.
Wendy

-----Original Message-----
From: "penhalion@juno.com" <penhalion@juno.com>
Sent: Jul 29, 2005 1:16 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bran


Technically speaking, the bran would have been a waste product left over from processing grain. It would be what was left after cleaning and winnowing. It wouldn't have been the whole grain (wheat, barley, whatever). I suppose you could pop out to the store and buy a box of bran (not bran cereal, just the bran) but it would be easier (and less expensive) to go to your local Lowes, Home Depot, etc and just ask them if you can have the leavings of their wood sawing area. They might look at you a little funny, but I'm sure they'd be happy to get rid of it.


Just a thought,

Karen
Seamstrix

-- Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Hi all, I have a question that is only sort of costume related, but
more of a language question.

Background I'm making a series of dolls as close to 16th century
art/artifacts and records as I can.  My base sources include the basic
doll history books that I am not sure if the authors are British or
American, and therefore I ask this question.

Is bran a generic term used to refer grain of various types or is it a
specific grain type?

The context is that the dolls' cloth or leather bodies were filled with
bran or sawdust.  While I can get the sawdust, right at the moment I
don't have the quanity I need for the several dolls I'm putting
together in the next two weeks.

and to add costume content, I making making several historical outfits
for these dolls, from an 1503 Spanish gown, 1530's German, 1550 English
and 1570's Italian for just a few of them.  

alex



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You probably have seen this but just in case not,
http://members.fortunecity.com/cadieuxx/florentine.html
she has a contact link.
Hope this helps,
De


Hi Deredere,
This is fabulous work she has done on her costumes, gosh i drolled of  her 
renaissance dresses.
Thanks for sharing the link

Bjarne 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
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>or you might try wooden skewers (like for kebabs). They are longer than 
>matchsticks or toothpicks and might be easier to hang on to. I think the 
>ones I have in a drawer are actually bamboo and were sold in the chinese 
>section of some grocery store.

These are bamboo and make nasty splinters, so be careful.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Your welcome. I love her work as well.
 I am not Deredere, I go by De because people have problems pronouncing and
spelling my birth name. And since it isn't Debbie, Deloris,..(the norm) etc
I choose using De instead of Dee. :)

De
aka: D'Lisa

-----Original Message-----
Hi Deredere,
This is fabulous work she has done on her costumes, gosh i drolled of  her
renaissance dresses.
Thanks for sharing the link

Bjarne


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bran
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>Is bran a generic term used to refer grain of various types or is it a
>specific grain type?

Bran is grain husks, not whole grain.  Health food stores and Organic 
groceries will carry it.

>The context is that the dolls' cloth or leather bodies were filled with
>bran or sawdust.  While I can get the sawdust, right at the moment I
>don't have the quanity I need for the several dolls I'm putting
>together in the next two weeks.

Coarse sawdust can usually be gotten in the pet department, as cage-bottom 
stuff for birds or small animals.  Also there's a brand of kitty litter 
that's compressed sawdust pellets, and crumbles down into very fine 
sawdust.  The rest of the bag will be very good for kitty litter (it's what 
our cats use).

>and to add costume content, I making making several historical outfits
>for these dolls, from an 1503 Spanish gown, 1530's German, 1550 English
>and 1570's Italian for just a few of them.

I'm all inspired now.  I'd been trying to use wool for stuffing, and it 
wasn't working well.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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-----Original Message-----

 
Two books I have been resourcing from (in addition to the multitude of web
pages out there!) are "Medieval Costume in England and France: the 13th,
14th, and 15th Centuries" by Mary Houston, and "Medieval Costume and How to
Recreate It" by Dorothy Hartley. Any opinions on these two books? 
[Betsy Marshal] 
Sorry to be late getting back on this! I recently acquired the Hartley book,
and most of her reconstructed examples appear to be from theater/stage
designs, so be aware that the appearance may be close to some of the
manuscript illos, but the pattern/detail drawings are aimed at getting the
"Look" as simply as possible. 
The original was published in 1931, so does not include the last 70 years of
improved research and recent finds.
That being said, if you want a decent appearance of medieval garb, you could
do worse than to follow some of her examples- (N*rris leaps to mind.) most
of the construction is rectangular, rather than fitted, and so will suit
many body types over a wider range of size fluctuations than the closely
fitted styles of later years.
I hope this has been some help, Betsy
(Planning at least one of Hartley's clerk's (over)robes for Pennsic- some of
us Ansteorrans get a mite chilled that far north!)


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Chris wrote:
> What a great idea!!!  Thank you so much for sharing Judy.

	no problem. Luckily there was a diagram in one of my Danish costuming 
books! Only trick is: make sure the dowels are longer than the width of 
the frame, that way when you wind the fabric over and under them you can 
pull them taut against the frame. Just don't leave it out to dry 
somewhere where a cat can investigate! <sigh>

	-Judy Mitchell
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
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Elizabeth Young wrote:
> or you might try wooden skewers (like for kebabs). They are longer than 
> matchsticks or toothpicks and might be easier to hang on to. 

	true, but depending on how much fabric you have to take up, the 
diameter is not big enough. That's why (after tons of calculations) I 
went with the 1/4" dowels. I had to involve a certain amount in the 
ruffle depth (think pleating depth). The gather thread allowed me to 
pull it in to fit the edge it was being attached to.

	-Judy
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bodice fit question
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 12:25:28 +1200
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> I have made several fitted bodices over the years of this type and
> always have the same problem. Unless I use a shaped center back seam,
> the bodice gaps at the center back neckline and sometimes at the center
> back waist. I have very pronounced shoulder blades and a sway back.
> If I want to have a center back seam, then I can eliminate the gapping.
> But if I do not (for some reason) want a c/b seam, is there some fitting
> technique I am missing?

The only way I can get a flat back panel is when I'm using a raglan sleeve
construction and my neckline is quite low:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/kampfrau.htm
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/beham.htm
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/annameyer.htm
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/1560.htm this one does have a centre
back seam because of contraints in cutting (one blanket for the dress.) The
lining and inteerlining however are one piece each.

(I do have drafted patterns of each of these, they just aren't online yet.)

My curve occurs above the shoulder blades (yay for genetics and
prednisone;) )

Luckily the raglan sleeve construction works for this place and time as I
have not seen a centre back seam on German dress of this era. If anyone has
seen one please forward the address to me as it would ease my mind as I do
have a centre back seam on two of them;)

I drafted my original pattern by pinning the fabric to my dress form in a
straight line down the centre back. I used my hand to smooth the fabric
around to the sides and pinned where the side seam would be (pins folloing
the direction of the seam.)

In shaping the piece it does depend on where you start with the smoothing
and where you direct the fabric to, especially with a pronounced curve.

You can also lower the back neckline a bit to account for individual shapes.
It might make the drafting a bit easier too.

You could also make the side back seams curved or make the angles different
for each. So you'd pin the fabric at centre back and possibly pin the side
panels in place then take fabric from the side edges of the centre back
panel.


Thing is, if you are achieving a  good comfortable fit with what you are
doing, just treat other ideas as experimentation.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Agnes,

Thank you for the information about the fan museum.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (confused) French hood gold
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Status: RO

Alright, I will admit it when I am confused.  I have no clue what you  guys 
are talking about with these dowels and bits of wood.  I have been  sewing for 
almost 40 years, and have not the faintest idea of how this is  happening.  I 
have never been very good at just visualizing things in the  first place, and 
usually require some sort of illustration or very patient  explaining.  I am 
sorry to be so obtuse, but I figure that if I am confused  there are probably 
others out there, and if this is really a technique that  could help, then I 
would be most humbly grateful if someone would kindly explain  further for me.
 
:)
~Kimberley
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (confused) French hood gold
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Chindora@aol.com wrote:
> Alright, I will admit it when I am confused.  I have no clue what you  guys 
> are talking about with these dowels and bits of wood.  I have been  sewing for 
> almost 40 years, and have not the faintest idea of how this is  happening.  I 
> have never been very good at just visualizing things in the  first place, and 
> usually require some sort of illustration or very patient  explaining.  I am 
> sorry to be so obtuse, but I figure that if I am confused  there are probably 
> others out there, and if this is really a technique that  could help, then I 
> would be most humbly grateful if someone would kindly explain  further for me.
>  


	Ok, I've put up the original line drawing from my Danish book and a pic 
of the frame I made (with the rods). 
<http://www.oldwaylane.net/Judy/Costuming/pleating.html> Hope this makes 
sense. Main thing I ahve to remember when I use it, is that the lower 
rods HAVE to go beneath the frame, or there isn't enoughspce between the 
peaks and valleys of the pleats and it doesn't 'take up' enough fabric. 
The fabric going over and under is enough pressure to keep the rods 
pressed against the frame - just don't tip it sideways or the rods slide 
out.

	-Judy Mitchell
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In a message dated 7/30/2005 7:22:22 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
judymitch@oldwaylane.net writes:

http://www.oldwaylane.net/Judy/Costuming/pleating.html


OOh, Judy, thanks so much!  Now I get it!
 
:)
Kimberley Mitchell
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Chindora@aol.com wrote:
> http://www.oldwaylane.net/Judy/Costuming/pleating.html
> 
> 
> OOh, Judy, thanks so much!  Now I get it!

	glad it helped. It's easy, although time consuming. I've done it both 
with cooked starch (now that was hot on the fingers!) and saturating the 
lace with Niagra spray starch. Both took about the same amount of time 
to dry and held up about the same. spray starch is much less messy and 
travels a whole lot better to hotels ;-)

	-Judy Mitchell
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 31 11:27:47 2005
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Howdy all,

I just went to the Gilbert Stuart exhibit at the National Gallery in DC. 
Alas, it ends today! I assume it will go somewhere else but I don't know 
where...if anywhere.

This show of late 18th and early 19th portraits is a fascinating study of the 
transition of fashion at this time. Some amazingly unique get ups on the 
women. Very beautiful and not run of the mill at all....some most interesting 
gowns and accessories from 1780s and 90s. The man's conservative suit [all those 
Presidents, y'know] and its subtle changes are there in glorious black on black 
detail.

Mr. Stuart is an amazing painter. He's best known for those unfinished 
portraits of George and Martha Washington. But other works are familiar...like the 
full length of William Grant skating. The portrait of Catherine Brass Yates 
sewing in her high mob cap is also known...the rendering of the white satin is 
yummy. Matilda Stoughton de Jaudenes y Nebot is delicious in her elaborately 
embroidered gown [1794] with lots of accessories and plumed headdress.

Like I said, today's the last day of the exhibition in DC, but I'm sure there 
must be a catalogue. I'm gonna try to get one. Not as good as seeing the real 
things but, y'know...
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>Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 16:59:11 -0500
>From: "Betsy Marshal" 
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: everything - newbie delurking

-----Original Message-----


>Two books I have been resourcing from (in addition to the multitude of web
>pages out there!) are "Medieval Costume in England and France: the 13th,
>14th, and 15th Centuries" by Mary Houston, and "Medieval Costume and How to
>Recreate It" by Dorothy Hartley. Any opinions on these two books? 
>[Betsy Marshal] 
>Sorry to be late getting back on this! I recently acquired the Hartley book,
>and most of her reconstructed examples appear to be from theater/stage
>designs, so be aware that the appearance may be close to some of the
>manuscript illos, but the pattern/detail drawings are aimed at getting the
>"Look" as simply as possible. 
>The original was published in 1931, so does not include the last 70 years of
>improved research and recent finds.
>That being said, if you want a decent appearance of medieval garb, you could
>do worse than to follow some of her examples- (N*rris leaps to mind.) most
>of the construction is rectangular, rather than fitted, and so will suit
>many body types over a wider range of size fluctuations than the closely
>fitted styles of later years.
>I hope this has been some help, Betsy
>>(Planning at least one of Hartley's clerk's (over)robes for Pennsic- some of
>>us Ansteorrans get a mite chilled that far north!)
 

 
Thank you Betsy,
 
I had the impression that the book was aimed more at theatrical costuming. It is nice to have a source of historial references/artwork without having to go on line or make a trek to the library.
 
I thought her simple pattern for a dress with a very full circle skirt was interesting and wondered how accurate it was. The bodice and sleeve construction appear close to my understanding of typical "T" tunic construction. But it seems to me the skirt would not hang properly with either a heavy or stiff fabric. I have seen pictures that suggest this sort of construction with contrasting fabric in the side pieces, although I'm pretty sure the one that comes to my mind was made with gored side pieces. (now, if I can remember where I saw that) I was thinking that in a lighter weight fabric the pattern would make a nice underdress - with narrower sleeves.
 
(The late 1920's photos of the theatrical modeling of her costumes were a bit of a hoot. :-) )
 
Annette M
The more I research the more I learn - and d* it's fun!


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] water soluble fabric
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Hi,
I have not received any letters for a long time, so i wondered what you all 
do.
Have you gone on vacations?
Well actually i wanted to start your brains and ask you clever people what 
can i use the water soluble fabrics that i baught for?
I think it is a wonderfull invention, but to what?
Could it be used for embroidery?
Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] water soluble fabric
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


> Well actually i wanted to start your brains and ask you clever people 
> what can i use the water soluble fabrics that i baught for?
> I think it is a wonderfull invention, but to what?
> Could it be used for embroidery?

There is a technique where you take the water soluble sheet and sew over 
it with all kinds of fancy threads in a random pattern until it is 
covered all over. Then you wash out the stabilizer and you have a small 
piece of "lace" that you can use in other projects.



Dawn



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Hi, Bjarne! (Sue waves from Montana)
I think it's just a quiet weekend--all of my lists are pretty subdued. 
I have only limited experience using water-soluble fabrics, but this is 
what I've used them for:
1.  To stabilize the very edge of some inexpensive lace that I was 
machine-stitching a zigzagged/buttonhole edging onto, using a gold 
thread (made especially for sewing machines).  You could probably use it 
as a temporary stabilizer in other ways, too.
2.  If you're embroidering or embellishing fabric that has a texture 
that makes it difficult to transfer a pattern onto the fabric, you can 
draw the patterns or guidelines onto the water-soluble fabric, and then 
tack or attach that to your fashion fabric, and embroider right through it.
3.  If you're embroidering or machine-appliqueing onto a knit (say, 
putting a motif onto a tee shirt or sweat shirt), you can use the w.s. 
fabric as a stabilizer for the whole area, so that the knit doesn't 
shift or pucker.
4.  I've also seen books talk about machine-sewn versions of lace done 
with a design drawn onto w.s. fabric, which is then dissolved, leaving 
only the machine embroidery behind.

Sure it could be used for embroidery, but the embroidery materials would 
need to be okay to get wet, of course, and it probably works much better 
with some techniques than others....

--Sue, in hot, sticky wants-to-thunderstorm-but-probably-won't Montana ;oD

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> I have not received any letters for a long time, so i wondered what you 
> all do.
> Have you gone on vacations?
> Well actually i wanted to start your brains and ask you clever people 
> what can i use the water soluble fabrics that i baught for?
> I think it is a wonderfull invention, but to what?
> Could it be used for embroidery?
> Bjarne

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Hartley girl dress ('medieval')
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I can tell you from bitter experience that the
half-circle on either side gown in Hartley will rip
straight across where all the fabric is hanging from
the one waist point, and it's not a particularly
repairable tear.

If you follow the advice given often for a Simplicity
surcote pattern with half-circles on either side, you
will make 1/4 circles (or less) gores/godets, and
insert them on each side & center front & back.  

Ann in CT

--- Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com> wrote:

> >From: "Betsy Marshal" 
> 
> > "Medieval Costume and How to Recreate It" by 
> > Dorothy Hartley. Any opinions? 
> >[Betsy Marshal] 

> Thank you Betsy,
>  
> I thought her simple pattern for a dress with a very
> full circle skirt was interesting and wondered how
> accurate it was. The bodice and sleeve construction
> appear close to my understanding of typical "T"
> tunic construction. But it seems to me the skirt
> would not hang properly with either a heavy or stiff
> fabric. I have seen pictures that suggest this sort
> of construction with contrasting fabric in the side
> pieces, although I'm pretty sure the one that comes
> to my mind was made with gored side pieces. (now, if
> I can remember where I saw that) I was thinking that
> in a lighter weight fabric the pattern would make a
> nice underdress - with narrower sleeves.
>  
> Annette M



		
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