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Hello,
I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to buy flour sack fabric by the yard. I was introduced to the towels by my mother-in-law and would love to use this fabric for other items but I'm having a hard time finding it. Does it go by another name? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

TIA,
Wendi

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flour Sack Fabric
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 11:06:12 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I thought it was osnaburg (osnaberg?)

Sylrog

On Aug 1, 2005, at 10:42 AM, <wendirae@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Hello,
> I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to buy flour sack 
> fabric by the yard. I was introduced to the towels by my mother-in-law 
> and would love to use this fabric for other items but I'm having a 
> hard time finding it. Does it go by another name? Any help would be 
> greatly appreciated.
>
> TIA,
> Wendi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flour Sack Fabric
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wendirae@bellsouth.net wrote:

> Hello,
> I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to buy flour sack fabric by the yard. I was introduced to the towels by my mother-in-law and would love to use this fabric for other items but I'm having a hard time finding it. Does it go by another name? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 

Never seen it by the yard, however feedsack fabric abounds on ebay, and 
there are a few places online selling reproduction dishtowels. I know 
you can get repro quilt fabric with the vintage prints, but I'm not sure 
it's the same texture/weave as the original feedsacks.


Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flour Sack Fabric
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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That sound right. Although my grandmother had different weights of
the fabric used for flour sacks. Since she was a quilter she
purchased them according to the weight she needed at the time.

I remember a series that were out of Chambray and a high count
ticking fabric.

Chiara


On Mon, August 1, 2005 12:06 pm, Sylvia Rognstad said:
> I thought it was osnaburg (osnaberg?)
>
> Sylrog
>
> On Aug 1, 2005, at 10:42 AM, <wendirae@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>> I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to buy flour
>> sack
>> fabric by the yard. I was introduced to the towels by my
>> mother-in-law
>> and would love to use this fabric for other items but I'm having a
>> hard time finding it. Does it go by another name? Any help would
>> be
>> greatly appreciated.
>>
>> TIA,
>> Wendi
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


Franchesca Havas
----------------------------------------

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Flour Sack Fabric
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Sylvia,
I was looking at Osnaberg at the store and it seemed too stiff; I'll have to look again and take a towel along with me for comparison.
Thanks,
Wendi
Sylvia wrote:
I thought it was osnaburg (osnaberg?)

Sylrog

On Aug 1, 2005, at 10:42 AM, <wendirae@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Hello,
> I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to buy flour sack 
> fabric by the yard. I was introduced to the towels by my mother-in-law 
> and would love to use this fabric for other items but I'm having a 
> hard time finding it. Does it go by another name? Any help would be 
> greatly appreciated.
>
> TIA,
> Wendi


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] ] Re: Flour Sack Fabric
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The osnaberg is stiff because of the sizing in the material. It loosens and
soften up after you wash it.
I do not think that osnaberg is equivalent to flour sack material but this
is isn't based on anything solid.

De

-----Original Message-----
Sylvia,
I was looking at Osnaberg at the store and it seemed too stiff; I'll have to
look again and take a towel along with me for comparison.
Thanks,
Wendi
Sylvia wrote:
I thought it was osnaburg (osnaberg?)

Sylrog

On Aug 1, 2005, at 10:42 AM, <wendirae@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Hello,
> I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to buy flour sack
> fabric by the yard. I was introduced to the towels by my mother-in-law
> and would love to use this fabric for other items but I'm having a
> hard time finding it. Does it go by another name? Any help would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> TIA,
> Wendi


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flour Sack Fabric
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 14:20:54 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The osnaberg we sell at Joanns isn't stiff at all.  Did the bolt say 
osnaberg?

On Aug 1, 2005, at 12:55 PM, <wendirae@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Sylvia,
> I was looking at Osnaberg at the store and it seemed too stiff; I'll 
> have to look again and take a towel along with me for comparison.
> Thanks,
> Wendi
> Sylvia wrote:
> I thought it was osnaburg (osnaberg?)
>
> Sylrog
>
> On Aug 1, 2005, at 10:42 AM, <wendirae@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>> I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to buy flour sack
>> fabric by the yard. I was introduced to the towels by my mother-in-law
>> and would love to use this fabric for other items but I'm having a
>> hard time finding it. Does it go by another name? Any help would be
>> greatly appreciated.
>>
>> TIA,
>> Wendi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Dawn:
Thanks for the tip; I'll have to keep an eye out on ebay.

Dawn wrote:
Never seen it by the yard, however feedsack fabric abounds on ebay, and 
there are a few places online selling reproduction dishtowels. I know 
you can get repro quilt fabric with the vintage prints, but I'm not sure 
it's the same texture/weave as the original feedsacks.


Dawn

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From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Hartley dress and some questions.
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Thank you Ann. That makes perfect sense. All that weight on one point would certainly cause a lot of stress, especially on some types of fabric. I think I know of the Simplicity pattern you are refering to. It is discontinued isn't it? I have seen it for sale on eBay for either a high price, or used and no return reply from the seller when asked if all the pieces were still there.
 
I've just realized that there is an event in three weeks I would like to have an outfit for and would rather not cobble something passable together out of my closet like I did for the first one I attended. Anyone have any hints or suggestions for something quick and easy?
 
I also have a question about linens - specifically the blended and synthetic ones. What sort of successes/failures have been experienced with these fabrics? The local Joann's often has them in 'suit weight' for less than $2.00 a yard and I was thinking this might be good for a first effort at a sideless surcotte.

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 18:41:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ann Catelli 
Subject: [h-cost] Hartley girl dress ('medieval')
To: Historical Costume 

I can tell you from bitter experience that the
half-circle on either side gown in Hartley will rip
straight across where all the fabric is hanging from
the one waist point, and it's not a particularly
repairable tear.

If you follow the advice given often for a Simplicity
surcote pattern with half-circles on either side, you
will make 1/4 circles (or less) gores/godets, and
insert them on each side & center front & back. 

Ann in CT

--- Kahlara wrote:

> >From: "Betsy Marshal" 
> 
> > "Medieval Costume and How to Recreate It" by 
> > Dorothy Hartley. Any opinions? 
> >[Betsy Marshal] 

> Thank you Betsy,
> 
> I thought her simple pattern for a dress with a very
> full circle skirt was interesting and wondered how
> accurate it was. The bodice and sleeve construction
> appear close to my understanding of typical "T"
> tunic construction. But it seems to me the skirt
> would not hang properly with either a heavy or stiff
> fabric. I have seen pictures that suggest this sort
> of construction with contrasting fabric in the side
> pieces, although I'm pretty sure the one that comes
> to my mind was made with gored side pieces. (now, if
> I can remember where I saw that) I was thinking that
> in a lighter weight fabric the pattern would make a
> nice underdress - with narrower sleeves.
> 
> Annette M


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Original Message:
-----------------
From: Kahlara kahlara@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 14:43:46 -0700 (PDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Hartley dress and some questions.


Thank you Ann. That makes perfect sense. All that weight on one point would
certainly cause a lot of stress, especially on some types of fabric. I
think I know of the Simplicity pattern you are refering to. It is
discontinued isn't it? I have seen it for sale on eBay for either a high
price, or used and no return reply from the seller when asked if all the
pieces were still there.
 
I've just realized that there is an event in three weeks I would like to
have an outfit for and would rather not cobble something passable together
out of my closet like I did for the first one I attended. Anyone have any
hints or suggestions for something quick and easy?
 
I also have a question about linens - specifically the blended and
synthetic ones. What sort of successes/failures have been experienced with
these fabrics? The local Joann's often has them in 'suit weight' for less
than $2.00 a yard and I was thinking this might be good for a first effort
at a sideless surcotte.


You could try this site for a couple of free patterns. Sally has done her
research, and while some people might not agree with her conclusions, I
have heard good reports of her patterns.

http://www.sallypointer.com/simplemedievaldress

Suzi

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Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 15:43:11 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flour Sack Fabric
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>I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to buy flour sack fabric 
>by the yard. I was introduced to the towels by my mother-in-law and would 
>love to use this fabric for other items but I'm having a hard time finding 
>it. Does it go by another name? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

A few years ago, Mexican grocery stores still sold flour in printed 
sacks.  Don't know if they still do.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flour Sack Fabric
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I think it's also called feed sack fabric and is sometimes available at 
quilting stores, including on-line ones.  This is what I gather from 
some groups I'm on, I've never bought any myself.

Hope this helps.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>
>> I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to buy flour sack 
>> fabric by the yard. I was introduced to the towels by my 
>> mother-in-law and would love to use this fabric for other items but 
>> I'm having a hard time finding it. Does it go by another name? Any 
>> help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
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We  have starting today an online class, "Basic Corsetry for Young Women: 1850 - 1865" at the Costume Classroom.   This class can be adapted for adult women's corsetry.  The class fee includes a three-month subscription to our online Research Library.  The class is taught by Elizabeth Stewart Clark.  There are still openings for new students.  For more information go to www.costumeclassroom.com .

Penny E. Ladnier
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The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ] Re: Flour Sack Fabric
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In a message dated 8/1/2005 3:50:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
otsisto@socket.net writes:

> I do not think that osnaberg is equivalent to flour sack material but this
> is isn't based on anything solid

I would think osnaberg, as I know it, too loosely woven to be a great four 
sack ...with flour sifting through it every time you moved the sack. I always 
thought flour sacks were of a moderately high count muslin...plain unbleached 
cotton [calico in England] but also often printed with blue flowers all over 
[calico in America].
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Elizabeth Young wrote:
> I am making a late 15th century Italian dress, 

> Unless I use a shaped center back seam, 
> the bodice gaps at the center back neckline and sometimes at the center 
> back waist. I have very pronounced shoulder blades and a sway back.
> If I want to have a center back seam, then I can eliminate the gapping. 
> But if I do not (for some reason) want a c/b seam, is there some fitting 
> technique I am missing?

Thanks! everybody for the helpful suggestions and web info. I will try 
some of them out on the next version of the dress.

liz young

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At 9:38 AM -0700 7/29/05, Alex Doyle wrote:
>The context is that the dolls' cloth or leather bodies were filled with
>bran or sawdust.  While I can get the sawdust, right at the moment I
>don't have the quanity I need for the several dolls I'm putting
>together in the next two weeks.

My experience making pincushions (ObCostume: surely these are a 
fashion accessory? <g>) has led me to prefer sifted sawdust over 
bran, for anything but the shortest-term use.

The reason being -- if bran has enough nourishment in it to be fed to 
horses, it also has enough nourishment in it to attract bugs. Having 
a couple of pincushions riddled with carpet-bettle holes was quite 
enough to convince me to use sawdust in the future.

Crumbled and finely sifted peat moss from the garden store works, too.
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re[2]: [h-cost] RE: costume critique/discussion website
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Ok, I have to ask.  Could you have a spot where people put up their
worst creations?  I ask because I got suckered into making a dress for
a friend. ("What do you want for your birthday?" I asked.  "Would you
sew me a new dress for SCA?" she said with big doe eyes.  "I have the
velvet fabric for the dress and cotton for the lining and the pattern
already.")

Since her mother was a sewer I asked my friend to go ahead and have
her mother cut out the fabric. I have never had such a fiasco in my
life -- instead of letting her mother help her she decided to do it
herself.  The velvet ended up being two different fabrics -- corduroy
and stretch velvet.  The lining was a flimsy cotton.  The pattern was
Halloween chic in its correctness. The problem (other than my
aesthetic sensibilities being smashed) was that none of the pieces
truly matched up.  I have seen small children do better cutting.  Over
one night (yes that means 7:00 in the evening to 4:00 the next morning
-- we were going to an SCA event the next day) I forced the pieces to
fit together.  Overall the only place that I did not force to match up
was the back above the zipper (it was the first time I ever put in a
zipper) was slightly off.  I used some holiday trim I was going to use
on wreaths that I used to cover up some of the mistakes.  We went to
the event and I wanted to hide ever time she told anyone that I made
the dress.

If there was a place to put your worst creation, I would love to put
this one.
Jonica

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Subject: [h-cost] Flour Sack
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Status: RO

I just wanted to thank everyone for their responses about the flour sack fabric.

Can you use the osnaberg for corsets or does it loosen up too much after it has been washed?

Sylvia - The osnaberg at the Joann's in Orlando seemed fairly stiff, not as much as a duck cloth, but more than a broadcloth. I'm pretty sure I looked at the information on the top of the bolt; I'll have to double check it again.

Thanks again for everyone's help!
Wendi

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If there was a place to put your worst creation, I would love to put
this one.
Jonica
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
ROTFL!  I think we all have some of these that we could drag out and
get a good cathartic laugh from.  Maybe designate one or two times a
year for these, like around April Fool's Day, so folks know it is meant
in fun?

Catherine


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At 05:26 AM 8/2/2005, you wrote:
>I just wanted to thank everyone for their responses about the flour 
>sack fabric.
>
>Can you use the osnaberg for corsets or does it loosen up too much 
>after it has been washed?
>
>Sylvia - The osnaberg at the Joann's in Orlando seemed fairly stiff, 
>not as much as a duck cloth, but more than a broadcloth. I'm pretty 
>sure I looked at the information on the top of the bolt; I'll have 
>to double check it again.
>
>Thanks again for everyone's help!
>Wendi

Osnaberg is too loosely woven to make a good corset.  You want 
something that doesn't stretch too much.  I have had successful 
corsets made with cotton duck (rather heavy, but it works and is 
cheap) as well as cotton coutil (the best, in my opinion), which is 
designed for corsets.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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on 8/1/05 11:49 PM, kahlara wrote:

> I also have a question about linens - specifically the blended and synthetic
> ones. What sort of successes/failures have been experienced with these
> fabrics? The local Joann's often has them in 'suit weight' for less than $2.00
> a yard and I was thinking this might be good for a first effort at a sideless
> surcotte.

I've used these a lot for SCA gowns, and I always thought they were okay --
until I made things out of pure linen and pure wool. Now I think they stink.
They are not stable -- they change shape while you are sewing them, even if
you are good and iron them every step of the way. And they creep in the
sewing machine. Pieces that start off the same shape don't end up that way
by the time you finish the end of a seam. I was amazed at how pure linen and
pure wool just stay put, even on the bias (cross)! And if you think linen
wrinkles -- they wrinkle too, but they are floppier.

On they other hand, they look pretty good and they are cheap. I still have
some left and I do plan to use it. But next time I will starch everthing as
I sew in hopes that it stays put a bit. If you just want something to wear
and price is important, then buy it and expect a harder time sewing. It'll
look fine.

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flour Sack
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In a message dated 8/2/2005 8:58:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
joanmj@surewest.net writes:

> I have had successful 
> corsets made with cotton duck (rather heavy, but it works and is 
> cheap) as well as cotton coutil (the best, in my opinion), which is 
> designed for corsets.
> 

I've used white denim, which has a twill weave. It will mold a bit but 
doesn't really stretch. Worked well.
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: linen blends
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While  I  prefer the 100% linen, I have used the blends and not
had  a  problem.  If you get the cotten/linen blend it acts and
looks pretty much the same as pure linen.  I am not fond of the
rayon/linen  blend.   Just  as  a  side note, I have found 100%
linen  stuffed  in  with  the blends at JoAnne's several times.
They  don't  seem to know or care that is is different, and the
price  is  the same.  You just have to look at the end of every
bolt and maybe find one in a stack of a dozen blends.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
--- Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:
From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 09:06:01 -0400
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: linen blends
on 8/1/05 11:49 PM, kahlara wrote:
>  I  also  have  a  question  about  linens - specifically the
blended and synthetic
>  ones.  What sort of successes/failures have been experienced
with these
>  fabrics?  The  local Joann's often has them in 'suit weight'
for less than $2.00
>  a  yard  and  I  was thinking this might be good for a first
effort at a sideless
> surcotte.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Aug  2 10:34:36 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flour Sack
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 08:34:56 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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If you've been looking at Joanns, ours is carrying a white or off-white 
drill, which is good for corsets.

Sylrog

On Aug 2, 2005, at 8:06 AM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 8/2/2005 8:58:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> joanmj@surewest.net writes:
>
>> I have had successful
>> corsets made with cotton duck (rather heavy, but it works and is
>> cheap) as well as cotton coutil (the best, in my opinion), which is
>> designed for corsets.
>>
>
> I've used white denim, which has a twill weave. It will mold a bit but
> doesn't really stretch. Worked well.
> _______________________________________________
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Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> on 8/1/05 11:49 PM, kahlara wrote:
> 
> 
>>I also have a question about linens - specifically the blended and synthetic
>>ones. What sort of successes/failures have been experienced with these
>>fabrics? 

I have used linen blends and find them oppressively warm compared to 
100% linen.

liz young

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A while back, I ordered a ton of $3/yd linen/cotton herringbone.  It looked 
and felt like pure linen--very silky--until I washed it.  It FULLED. 
Unwashed, it had been very lightweight, very thin, (it felt like about 3.5-4 
oz, from what I remember) and a bit loosely woven.  Washed, it's thicker 
than denim (though still pretty loosely woven; it didn't really shrink much) 
and not at all silky.  It's still pretty breathable and surprisingly easy to 
work with (especially for hand-sewing, because of the looseness of the 
weave) but it's a completely different fabric than what I'd bought; in terms 
of drape and hand you're more likely to mistake it for wool than for linen. 
The leftovers, of which I have a ton, are excellent for making mock-ups of 
fulled wool garments, since they have pretty much the same stretch and 
thickness.

As a matter of fact, I was just sitting here putting things up for sale, so 
if you're curious you can see a dress made out of this stuff:
http://www.formfunction.org/for_sale/rr.html
Both the outside and the lining are made out of this fabric, but the metric 
ton of hand-sewing that went in to it went quickly and easily and didn't 
cause any blisters! Couldn't say the same for a 100% linen cote of a similar 
washed thickness that I made around the same time.

All said, I don't find a cotton/linen blend too objectionable for outerwear, 
but I wouldn't want it directly against my skin, and I wouldn't wear it when 
it's over 85-90 degrees F.  And if it's wonderfully silky and beautiful when 
you buy it, then make a dry-clean only garment out of it!

-E 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
I am so fortunate that they are sending a series in the danish television 
about the House of Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld.
They show how they create all the haute couture models and all the staff in 
the house is working. Included a very skilled shoemaker, a professional 
tassel maker, and embroiderers. Whow it is very interresting to watch this.
Those seamstresses really knows what they are doing.
Gosh how awsome it must be to work there! Some people really are lucky!!!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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What I wouldn't give to see that series, Bjarne!
Even if I couldn't understand what they were saying, it would be enough 
just to see all that eye candy.  Sigh.

Michelle in scorching Michigan, USA
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Thank Suzi,
 
The 'simple' dress looks relatively easy. It is good to have an actual diagram of the pattern layout - makes it easier to visualize how it should go together. The 'red dress' pattern is virtually identical to the Hartley pattern (Medieval Costume...by Dorothy Hartley).
 
Annette M

Original Message:
-----------------
From: Kahlara kahlara@yahoo.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Hartley dress and some questions.

I've just realized that there is an event in three weeks I would like to
have an outfit for and would rather not cobble something passable together
out of my closet like I did for the first one I attended. Anyone have any
hints or suggestions for something quick and easy?


You could try this site for a couple of free patterns. Sally has done her
research, and while some people might not agree with her conclusions, I
have heard good reports of her patterns.

http://www.sallypointer.com/simplemedievaldress

Suzi

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Thanks for the responses! The real thing? Someday - when I am better at this and feel that I won't be wasting money on a mistake. :- ) Hopefully the heat won't be too much of a factor - up here in the Northwest an 85 degree day is in the high range even in August.
 
I have noticed that Joanne's sometimes appears to mix things up, but the local one is pretty limited that way...a huge selection of craft supplies, quilting, and home decor fabrics (that part isn't so bad actually). The actual garment fabric section takes up less than 1/4 of the fabric department and is heavily into fleeces and specialty (bridal/prom, baby, holiday) fabrics. Completely natural fabrics are hard to come by. :- (
 
In that same vein...I have seen several eBay sellers that have linen. Anyone want to share any experiences with buying fabrics from eBay?
 
Annette M  -  Today's lesson is about fabric.

From: Gail & Scott Finke 
Subject: [h-cost] Re: linen blends

on 8/1/05 11:49 PM, kahlara wrote:

> I also have a question about linens - specifically the blended and synthetic
> ones. What sort of successes/failures have been experienced with these
> fabrics? The local Joann's often has them in 'suit weight' for less than $2.00
> a yard and I was thinking this might be good for a first effort at a sideless
> surcotte.

I've used these a lot for SCA gowns, and I always thought they were okay --
until I made things out of pure linen and pure wool. Now I think they stink.
They are not stable -- they change shape while you are sewing them, even if
you are good and iron them every step of the way. And they creep in the
sewing machine. Pieces that start off the same shape don't end up that way
by the time you finish the end of a seam. I was amazed at how pure linen and
pure wool just stay put, even on the bias (cross)! And if you think linen
wrinkles -- they wrinkle too, but they are floppier.

On they other hand, they look pretty good and they are cheap. I still have
some left and I do plan to use it. But next time I will starch everthing as
I sew in hopes that it stays put a bit. If you just want something to wear
and price is important, then buy it and expect a harder time sewing. It'll
look fine.

Gail Finke

------------------------------

From: Lalah 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: linen blends

While I prefer the 100% linen, I have used the blends and not
had a problem. If you get the cotten/linen blend it acts and
looks pretty much the same as pure linen. I am not fond of the
rayon/linen blend. Just as a side note, I have found 100%
linen stuffed in with the blends at JoAnne's several times.
They don't seem to know or care that is is different, and the
price is the same. You just have to look at the end of every
bolt and maybe find one in a stack of a dozen blends.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
 
------------------

I have used linen blends and find them oppressively warm compared to 
100% linen.

liz young

---------------------

And that depends on the blend. Rayon blended with linen should not be so; 
polyester, however, may be. I think rayon is blended with linen mainly for 
lower cost; polyester is blended to make it more easy-care--less prone to 
wrinkles. Comfort is largely dependent on how well the fibers absorb moisture, 
and rayon is more absorbent than linen.

Ann Wass



		
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<snip>


> If there was a place to put your worst creation, I would love to put
> this one.
> Jonica
<snip>

hmm, maybe in the fantasy section with a note in the description explaining
what it is.
If other people are interested I could create and "Oh My God What Was I
Thinking" section (or something along those lines)
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: linen blends
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In a message dated 8/2/2005 10:59:36 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lizyoung@fenris.net writes:

I have  used linen blends and find them oppressively warm compared to 
100%  linen.




And that depends on the blend.  Rayon blended with linen should not be  so; 
polyester, however, may be.  I think rayon is blended with linen mainly  for 
lower cost; polyester is blended to make it more easy-care--less prone to  
wrinkles.  Comfort is largely dependent on how well the fibers absorb  moisture, 
and rayon is more absorbent than linen.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Handkerchief Linen
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Hello,
I wanted to know, and I am sure the answer is "yes", if anyone has any experience working with Handkerchief Linen. Can you please tell me the Pros and Cons of working with it and wearing it?

TIA,
Wendi

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Sylvia,

Where in the store would the drill be located? Is it in with the fashion fabrics or the quilting/craft fabrics? I don't remember seeing a sign for Drill.

Thanks,
Wendi

Sylvia wrote:
"If you've been looking at Joanns, ours is carrying a white or off-white 
drill, which is good for corsets.

Sylrog"


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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] House of Chanel
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You should too Bjarne, your work is perfection and you have such an amazing eye for color/color matching...just my couple of pennies worth ;)
 
A BIG fan of your incredible work, 
Chris G.

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
Hi,
I am so fortunate that they are sending a series in the danish television 
about the House of Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld.
They show how they create all the haute couture models and all the staff in 
the house is working. Included a very skilled shoemaker, a professional 
tassel maker, and embroiderers. Whow it is very interresting to watch this.
Those seamstresses really knows what they are doing.
Gosh how awsome it must be to work there! Some people really are lucky!!!

Bjarne


		
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At 03:28 PM 8/2/2005, you wrote:
>Thanks for the responses! The real thing? Someday - when I am better 
>at this and feel that I won't be wasting money on a mistake. :- ) 
>Hopefully the heat won't be too much of a factor - up here in the 
>Northwest an 85 degree day is in the high range even in August.
>
>I have noticed that Joanne's sometimes appears to mix things up, but 
>the local one is pretty limited that way...a huge selection of craft 
>supplies, quilting, and home decor fabrics (that part isn't so bad 
>actually). The actual garment fabric section takes up less than 1/4 
>of the fabric department and is heavily into fleeces and specialty 
>(bridal/prom, baby, holiday) fabrics. Completely natural fabrics are 
>hard to come by. :- (
>
>In that same vein...I have seen several eBay sellers that have 
>linen. Anyone want to share any experiences with buying fabrics from eBay?
>
>Annette M  -  Today's lesson is about fabric.

For linen, I go to www.fabrics-store.com.  I have had good service 
and decent products at a good price.  You can get free samples of up 
to 5 fabrics at a time.  Can't hurt to give it a try.
I've had good luck with cotton-linen blends (and it's amazing what a 
little color-remover and dye will do if the original color is just 
wrong); most of the ones I have used are 50-50.  I won't use any of 
the linen-rayon blends for next-to-the-skin clothing, but they should 
be fine for outer garments.

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: water soluble fabric 
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> Hi,
> I have not received any letters for a long time, so i wondered what you
all
> do.
> Have you gone on vacations?
> Well actually i wanted to start your brains and ask you clever people what
> can i use the water soluble fabrics that i baught for?
> I think it is a wonderfull invention, but to what?
> Could it be used for embroidery?
> Bjarne

Bjarne, I love watersoluble fabric I use it perhaps more than I should :)
-For drawing out the embroidery pattern, to transfer to materials like
ribbed silk, velvet, and linen that I want to keep *absolutely* white. I
baste the pattern onto the fabric, do a quick running stitch through it,
wash it, and voila!
-For stabilizing slippery fabrics, that I'm sewing together, like that dark
blue silk charmeuse that prefers to slide into a lump next to the sewing
machine, and shows pin marks badly.
-I have a friend who makes lace bowls (yes, bowls) she draws the pieces, to
make a ball, on the watersoluble, then she stitches over it, with her sewing
machine, with fancy embroidery stitches, and zigzags. After the material is
covered, she cuts the pieces out, sews them together, and then rinses out
the watersoluble. They are very pretty and delicate little things.
-and last...I've thought of using it as a ground work for making Punto in
Aria lace, a needlepoint lace, but I haven't tried it yet, so I don't know
if it would work.
I hope this gives you some ideas, enjoy it,

Bob Dorr-Robert of Stonemarche, currently embroidering, and adding pearls
for a set of tunic cuffs.


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flour Sack
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 20:30:51 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I found it with the rest of the utility fabrics, where they keep the 
osnaburg, canvas, diaper fabric, etc.

On Aug 2, 2005, at 12:09 PM, <wendirae@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Sylvia,
>
> Where in the store would the drill be located? Is it in with the 
> fashion fabrics or the quilting/craft fabrics? I don't remember seeing 
> a sign for Drill.
>
> Thanks,
> Wendi
>
> Sylvia wrote:
> "If you've been looking at Joanns, ours is carrying a white or 
> off-white
> drill, which is good for corsets.
>
> Sylrog"
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Flour Sack
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 21:34:09 -0500
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I'm not Sylvia, but the drill will probably be in the utility fabrics with
pillow ticking and osnaburg, etc. 

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of 
> wendirae@bellsouth.net
> Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 1:10 PM
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Flour Sack
> 
> Sylvia,
> 
> Where in the store would the drill be located? Is it in with 
> the fashion fabrics or the quilting/craft fabrics? I don't 
> remember seeing a sign for Drill.
> 
> Thanks,
> Wendi
> 
> Sylvia wrote:
> "If you've been looking at Joanns, ours is carrying a white 
> or off-white drill, which is good for corsets.
> 
> Sylrog"
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Handkerchief Linen
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>Can you please tell me the Pros and Cons of working with it and wearing it?

It's thin and doesn't wear as well as thicker linen.  It feels like silk 
until it wears thru.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Subject: [h-cost] 1540s French Hood Images
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Hi all,

I guess I like to research costumes, even what some would consider minor 
parts like the hats and other accessories. To me, they are just as 
important in getting right (or close to it as we can sometimes) as getting 
the gown right.

I've seen a number of French hoods worn over the years, and part of why I 
am so keen in researching this accessory is that most that I have seen at 
various renaissance faires (although, not all, thankfully) usually have 
that upper crescent shaped way too large, and standing up way too high. For 
those who watched Babylon 5, a badly made French hood can sometimes remind 
me of the Centauri's fashion for a standing crest of hair. And yes, I have 
worn such a standing crest myself, so I am not pointing fingers at anyone. 
As we learn better, we do better.

As a standing crest is something I want to avoid in making my next French 
hood, I decided that the best way to determine what a proper one should 
look like, is to look at as many examples in surviving portraits and 
sketches that I could find. Unfortunately, there are no surviving French 
hoods that I have heard of, so portraits and sketches have to suffice. 
However, the biggest problem in determining what they really look like, is 
that there are no back images of any that I could find, or really good side 
views either.

But what images I have found in my many books, I have scanned and made 
available for everyone to view for research purposes only. I am sure there 
are more images available in other books and even online, but I didn't find 
them... yet. I know there is one book that I would love to get from our 
local college, Strong's _Tudor & Jacobean Portraits_, but they are 
expanding the library, and all those kind of research books are being moved 
into storage for awhile. When I get that book, or any other images of 
interest, I will update the page.

The images I have scanned are only French hoods, and they date from the 
late 1530s to the 1550s, but all are of similar fashion style. For now, you 
can find all 10 images I have, in full and in close-up detail, at my dress 
diary section:
1540s French Hood Images
http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/1545FrenchHood/Fhood_images.html
If you know of any images that should be on this page but are not, please 
let me know.

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)

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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: Fabrics from eBay, was Re: [h-cost] linen blends
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 22:59:35 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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>>
>> In that same vein...I have seen several eBay sellers that have  
>> linen. Anyone want to share any experiences with buying fabrics  
>> from eBay?
>>
>> Annette M  -  Today's lesson is about fabric.
>

I've had very good luck with fabrics from eBay.  But I tend to be  
adventurous when it comes to such things.  But I recently got a  
gorgeous wool tapestry type fabric that I am working into a coat.  It  
wasn't exactly like it looked on eBay, it was better.  caveat  
emptor.  Make sure to check their feedback.

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Reunite Pangaea!

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the  
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority.  
Truth does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a  
majority of the people.
- Giordano Bruno

Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
- Gunn

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 03:39:06 -0400
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This is so cute:
http://www.brownielocks.com/mullet.html 
Of course you have to sing along with the midi while visiting the webpage.

We actually sing "Hair" to my son who is going his hair out. 

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Fabrics from eBay, was Re: [h-cost] linen blends
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My problem with fabrics-store  is that thier white light weight linen 
(IL-19 and IL-20 i think are they names) does not come in what they 
called "soften" so it is fairly rough-i.e. not something i would want to 
use in a chemises. I have used it so, and it is ok, but NOT as nice as 
some of the good linen I have bought for 7 dollars other places.  

I have tried washing and drying it again and again, and alos tried 
washing it with dish soap (someone said that might help at some point). 

Joan Jurancich wrote:

> At 03:28 PM 8/2/2005, you wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the responses! The real thing? Someday - when I am better 
>> at this and feel that I won't be wasting money on a mistake. :- ) 
>> Hopefully the heat won't be too much of a factor - up here in the 
>> Northwest an 85 degree day is in the high range even in August.
>>
>> I have noticed that Joanne's sometimes appears to mix things up, but 
>> the local one is pretty limited that way...a huge selection of craft 
>> supplies, quilting, and home decor fabrics (that part isn't so bad 
>> actually). The actual garment fabric section takes up less than 1/4 
>> of the fabric department and is heavily into fleeces and specialty 
>> (bridal/prom, baby, holiday) fabrics. Completely natural fabrics are 
>> hard to come by. :- (
>>
>> In that same vein...I have seen several eBay sellers that have linen. 
>> Anyone want to share any experiences with buying fabrics from eBay?
>>
>> Annette M  -  Today's lesson is about fabric.
>
>
> For linen, I go to www.fabrics-store.com.  I have had good service and 
> decent products at a good price.  You can get free samples of up to 5 
> fabrics at a time.  Can't hurt to give it a try.
> I've had good luck with cotton-linen blends (and it's amazing what a 
> little color-remover and dye will do if the original color is just 
> wrong); most of the ones I have used are 50-50.  I won't use any of 
> the linen-rayon blends for next-to-the-skin clothing, but they should 
> be fine for outer garments.
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Handkerchief Linen
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Hi Wendi,
I dont know what you mean with Pros and Cons is, but i have imported the 
most expensive and lovely handkerchief linen from Rotterdam.
I made my 18th century gentlemans shirt of it, and it is very very lovely to 
work with, irons well, washes well, and alas very very expensive. Also my 
stock cravat is made of this material.

Let me know what this pros and cons are.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wendirae@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 9:39 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Handkerchief Linen


> Hello,
> I wanted to know, and I am sure the answer is "yes", if anyone has any 
> experience working with Handkerchief Linen. Can you please tell me the 
> Pros and Cons of working with it and wearing it?
>
> TIA,
> Wendi
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Advantages and disadvantages (from the Latin "pro" (for) and "contra" (against).
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> drewscph@post12.tele.dk 03/08/2005 14:53 >>>


Let me know what this pros and cons are.

Bjarne



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <6.2.1.2.0.20050802205440.0369d240@64.87.54.245>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1540s French Hood Images
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 16:06:07 +0200
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Hi Kimiko,
Welcome to the club of high crests.
The very first i ever made, was like your description, and way to 
exagerated.
Even worse was that i made it with an elizabethan wheel farthingale. My 
research was not worth 2 pennies those days :-)
I have often wondered, that there must be many portraits at the Louvre 
Museum in Paris. Unfortunately i have never been there, but they must have 
as many portraits from the period, as the english has. Dont know if there 
are any french books arround.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: <margospatterns@yahoogroups.com>; <h-costume@indra.com>; 
<CVCostumers@yahoogroups.com>; <isleofmannca@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 6:01 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 1540s French Hood Images


> Hi all,
>
> I guess I like to research costumes, even what some would consider minor 
> parts like the hats and other accessories. To me, they are just as 
> important in getting right (or close to it as we can sometimes) as getting 
> the gown right.
>
> I've seen a number of French hoods worn over the years, and part of why I 
> am so keen in researching this accessory is that most that I have seen at 
> various renaissance faires (although, not all, thankfully) usually have 
> that upper crescent shaped way too large, and standing up way too high. 
> For those who watched Babylon 5, a badly made French hood can sometimes 
> remind me of the Centauri's fashion for a standing crest of hair. And yes, 
> I have worn such a standing crest myself, so I am not pointing fingers at 
> anyone. As we learn better, we do better.
>
> As a standing crest is something I want to avoid in making my next French 
> hood, I decided that the best way to determine what a proper one should 
> look like, is to look at as many examples in surviving portraits and 
> sketches that I could find. Unfortunately, there are no surviving French 
> hoods that I have heard of, so portraits and sketches have to suffice. 
> However, the biggest problem in determining what they really look like, is 
> that there are no back images of any that I could find, or really good 
> side views either.
>
> But what images I have found in my many books, I have scanned and made 
> available for everyone to view for research purposes only. I am sure there 
> are more images available in other books and even online, but I didn't 
> find them... yet. I know there is one book that I would love to get from 
> our local college, Strong's _Tudor & Jacobean Portraits_, but they are 
> expanding the library, and all those kind of research books are being 
> moved into storage for awhile. When I get that book, or any other images 
> of interest, I will update the page.
>
> The images I have scanned are only French hoods, and they date from the 
> late 1530s to the 1550s, but all are of similar fashion style. For now, 
> you can find all 10 images I have, in full and in close-up detail, at my 
> dress diary section:
> 1540s French Hood Images
> http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/1545FrenchHood/Fhood_images.html
> If you know of any images that should be on this page but are not, please 
> let me know.
>
> Kimiko
>
> Kimiko Small
> http://www.kimiko1.com
> Fresno, CA, USA
>
> "Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
> Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
> Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
>  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Handkerchief Linen
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I used it for a couple of 16th C shirts, machine sewed one, hand sewed
the other.  It was a dream to handsew as fingerpressing took quite
easily.  It doesn't wear as well as the heavier linens but both of the
guys I made these for say it is very cool and comfortable to wear.

I was using the handkerchief linen available on sewingcentral.com.

Hope that helps,
Catherine
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Subject: Re: Fabrics from eBay, was Re: [h-cost] linen blends
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That's a shame.  The bolt of the same stuff I got from them (their 3.5 
oz "handkerchief" linen) washed up beautifully.  It's not quite as fine 
as some other fabric I've got (60 threads/inch), but it's very nice, and 
makes great shifts and shirts (and hankies, too).  The thread count's 
not as exactly even as I'd like for my counted-thread work, but I'm 
looking forward to doing some embroidery on it for a 16th-century shift. 
  I'm going to do a variant on the partlet and sleeves from the Helena 
S????(Slackenburg? something like that) painting (English, mid-century). 
  She's the young lady in the sleeveless red dress, with the partlet and 
matching sleeves embroidered with sprigs of roses? I'm going to do the 
same thing, but using sprigs of blue columbine, since columbine are the 
charge in my (SCA) badge.  There are a number of examples in 16th c. 
English clothing that show little touches of heraldic charges or 
associations, so I thought it appropriate.  Plus, it gets me the chance 
to try another kind of embroidery (I generally don't do surface work), 
AND has the bonus of avoiding roses, which were hugely popular as 
thematic elements in 16th c. (English) embroidery, but which, in the 
SCA, tend to be associated with queens and former queens, which I am not.
--Sue in sunny Montana, who needs to get off this computer and go to 
work! ;o)

J Schueller wrote:

> My problem with fabrics-store  is that thier white light weight linen 
> (IL-19 and IL-20 i think are they names) does not come in what they 
> called "soften" so it is fairly rough-i.e. not something i would want to 
> use in a chemises. I have used it so, and it is ok, but NOT as nice as 
> some of the good linen I have bought for 7 dollars other places. 
> I have tried washing and drying it again and again, and alos tried 
> washing it with dish soap (someone said that might help at some point).


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pros and cons, was Handkerchief Linen
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pros and cons, was Handkerchief Linen



Advantages and disadvantages (from the Latin "pro" (for) and "contra" 
(against).

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


Thanks Kate,
I think i payed about 125 dollars back in 2000 for 1 meter of this 
hankerchief linen. It original is used for making hankerchiefs edged with 
very fine homemade point laces. I knew it from my time when i made laces. 
And i thoaght it would be wonderfull for shirts and chemises. I have washed 
it only about 2-3 times a year when i goes to events, and the only thing 
wrong with it today is a tiny spot i got at the first event where i got a 
moskito bite. It has not gotten thinner of wash and the quality is the same.
We have a special word for this linen in Denmark we call it Kammerdug, wich 
could be translated to something about chamber cloth. It is the finest linen 
available today, and the obstacle is sertanly the price.
However i only wash it by hand, no machine, but this is mostly because i 
dont want to ruin my cotton lace wich is attached to it.

Bjarne 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1540s French Hood Images
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I think that it's a trick of perspective that makes people think that French Hoods stand up away from the head. I have made two French Hoods that actually lay down almost flat against my skull but that look tilted when I wear them. People don't realize that the skull actually slopes up from the forehead and so if you make something that lies flat to the head it will appear tilted when observed. I cringe every time I see one of the 'sun visor' French Hoods- I know that's what some people actually use for them because they have told me with great enthusiasm that they are the perfect shape and won't it be wonderful......that's when I just grit my teeth and nod politely. I remember seeing a nun one time with a head-dress that was a perfect French Hood and I wished that I had the nerve to ask her how her order (I have no idea which one) constructs the things and if the makings might be available to the public. Alas, I haven't seen one like it since (not that I've been prowling th!
 e convents and cathedrals looking) but if I do, I may just throw caution to the wind and ask.

Byt he way, there's a sketch in one of Janet Arold's books (PoF or QEWUNLK'D) of a French woman from front and back and I believe she's wearing a French Hood......it's usually used to illustrate the farthingale that peaking out from under her hem or the way her bodice laces up the back. That might give you a back view to work from.


Karen 
Seamstrix
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Kimiko, I'm so glad you are doing this! An image collection of French 
hoods has been on the to-do list for a long time. One of the things I 
was contemplating was a look at similar styles from nearby countries 
just before this time period as well as later developments--a sort of 
evolutionary approach.

Most people trace the hood from the looser early century arrangement, or 
just before the turn of the century as in Margaret of Burgandy's 
version: http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/moulins/anne_aus.jpg
But there are several intriguing possibilities from the Flemish school 
that might be closer, evolutionary speaking. Gossaert depicts a young 
women with a frech-hood shaped headdress that contains her hair in a bag 
at the back:
http://www.wga.hu/art/g/gossaert/2/girl.jpg
Hemessen has this interesting variation:
http://www.wga.hu/art/h/hemessen/jan/weighing.jpg
and an absolute favorite, for the "bag":
http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/female/concert.jpg
(The above are from the Web Gallery of Art: 
http://www.wga.hu/index.html, go to search page, choose appropriate 
time/school)



and the post-1540 style of headdress:
Mary Tudor in profile on a medal. There is a companion medal of Phillip. 
This is about 10 years after the period you are looking at. There are 
several images of these around the web. Here's one:
http://content.answers.com/main/content/wp/en/6/63/Mary_and_Philip_medal.jpg
Quite different!


- Hope

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Subject: [h-cost] Very Cool Links
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I don't know if these links have ever been posted before, but I was browsing around the internet and found some great links that I just had to pass along!

Nineteenth Century Fashions
http://www.cwrl.utexas.edu/~ulrich/19cdress/index.htm

Lafayette Negative Archive 
http://lafayette.150m.com/thumbscourt.html 

Enjoy!!
Wendi

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Need someone to make belt
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Does anyone know where in the San Francisco area I can get a belt made 
to go with a vintage buckle?  I have a big, heavy  20th-century enameled 
buckle (probably brass) with a very simple but unusual closure.  It's 
Art Nouveau style but made in the later 20th century, probably an 
Oriental import. It has a blue suede belt that, aside from being worn, 
is blue.  I almost never wear blue.  Anyway, I want to replace the belt 
with an identical one in some shade of brown that goes with the buckle 
(which is brass color, dark blue, and red). 

Anyone know a reliable leatherworker who can do this at a reasonable price?

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: [h-cost] New (to me) book
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Hello  everyone.  I just picked up a new (to me) book at the library, 
and I thought others might be intrested in it as it seems to have a 
bunch of pictures and details of the pics. 

Private Lives in Renaissance Venice
by Patricia Fortini Brown
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0300102364/qid=1123095777/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i1_xgl14/103-9440793-8383823?v=glance&s=books&n=507846

It is not my area, but it looks well packaged, so some of you might want 
to browse it if you find it in your local library.  


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Handkerchief Linen
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Bjarne,
Thanks for the information. By Pros and Cons it means good and bad aspects of working with and wearing the fabric. So based on your email is is very easy to work with, albeit expensive, but is it uncomfortable to wear? Does it breathe or is it oppresive?

Thanks,
Wendi
Bjarne wrote:

>Hi Wendi,
>I dont know what you mean with Pros and Cons is, but i >have imported the most expensive and lovely handkerchief >linen from Rotterdam. I made my 18th century gentlemans >shirt of it, and it is very very lovely to work with, >irons well, washes well, and alas very very expensive. >Also my stock cravat is made of this material.
>
>Let me know what this pros and cons are.
>
>Bjarne


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>And i thoaght it would be wonderfull for shirts and chemises. I have washed
>it only about 2-3 times a year when i goes to events, and the only thing
>wrong with it today is a tiny spot i got at the first event where i got a
>moskito bite.

If that's a blood stain, try hydrogen peroxide. (It may be too late if
you've washed it alot.)  The H2O2 becomes H2O plus a free O molecule,
two of which bind with the iron in hemoglobin removing the color from
the blood.  Aint it great what you learn in Biology class.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Theaterworks seeks volunteers
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I know this sounds like it should be spam or even porn. Apologies. You
know where your delete key is.  The following came to me, referencing
a friend of mind currently working for Theaterworks.  Theaterworks,
based in Menlo Park California, (www.theatreworks.org) is running the
show "Intimate Apparel". They're looking for 1902 corsetted models for
the opening nite party. There is no requirement for "chapter & verse"
authenticity.  This is the theatah, dahlings.  The show is about a
corsettiere who makes outrageous corsets.

That's all the info I have.  If you'd care to volunteer or would like
more details, contact Shannon at the address below.

I've volunteered to show & tell my collection of originals, but, at my
age coyly refuse to model.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

 I am looking for models to attend our opening night of Intimate
Apparel, Saturday, August 27th. The show takes place in 1905 and
centers around corsets so I need to find about 10 people who will
attend in corsets. On the advice of the nice folks at Dark Garden, I
have tried to get a hold of the greater bay area costumers' guild and
they have not returned my calls. Heather suggested you might know
someone who could point me in the right direction. I would certainly
appreciate the help.

Shannon McDonnell
Director of Marketing & Sales 
TheatreWorks 
Phone: (650) 463-7127 
Fax: (650) 463-1963 
mailto:shannon@theatreworks.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: linen blends & handkerchief
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Elena,

Nice web page. Would you mind posting the top page for your costumes? I 
feel certain you have done this at some point and I haven't been paying 
enough attention. Mozilla, at least, doesn't show a link to it - and 
dropping the rr.html or going to the .org doesn't work either. Thanks.

I have a linen cotehardie just a tiny step up from handkerchief linen 
(some shops would probably market it as handkerchief). It is quite 
crisp; a very firm weave which doesn't have the elasticity my linen 
foundation garment has. So far, it is wearing quite well and looks good 
- the surprising body means that the skirt does not fall limply. I found 
I had to tweek the pattern because of the difference in elasticity 
including re-cutting the sleeves on the bias to allow more give.

Megh E.

>------------------------------
>
>Message: 2
>Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 13:15:31 -0500
>From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: linen blends
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <050801c5978e$2bcaac20$0400a8c0@compaqub>
>Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>	reply-type=response
>
>As a matter of fact, I was just sitting here putting things up for sale, so 
>if you're curious you can see a dress made out of this stuff:
>http://www.formfunction.org/for_sale/rr.html
>
>-E 
>
>
>  
>
>Message: 7
>Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 15:39:08 -0400
>From: <wendirae@bellsouth.net>
>Subject: [h-cost] Handkerchief Linen
>To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
>Message-ID:
>	<20050802193908.JWM12809.ibm62aec.bellsouth.net@mail.bellsouth.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
>Hello,
>I wanted to know, and I am sure the answer is "yes", if anyone has any experience working with Handkerchief Linen. Can you please tell me the Pros and Cons of working with it and wearing it?
>
>TIA,
>Wendi
>


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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1540s French Hood Images
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Perhaps I've just missed your point.  Sorry.

But the Margaret of Burgundy picture shows a bag with
the hair contained beneath it, although bigger than
the Gossaert example you gave.   Very closely related,
so far as I can see.

I've seen the portrait in person. 
It appears to me to show a large, dark, matt fabric
bag with a web/lattice of a multi-ply gold cording. 
The paint of the cord is very badly worn on the top &
back of her head, but shows fairly well towards the
bottom of the bag.

And the shape of the 'headband' parts are very close
indeed.

Ann in CT

--- Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> wrote:

> Most people trace the hood from the looser early
> century arrangement, or just before the turn of 
> the century as in Margaret of Burgandy's 
> version:
> http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/moulins/anne_aus.jpg
>
> - Hope


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Hi,
I received an email today from the Dean of my department (the Library)
and she asked:

>Is there any directory of college and university historic dress
collections?  I know many land-grant universities >who used to have home
economics programs have some sort of dress collections.  Are you aware
of any 
>directory?

I sent her URLs for some of the schools I could think of off the top of
my head, along with listings that were at the Costumer's Manifesto and
the Costume Society of America.  But I couldn't think of anything that
was published and just referred to collegiate collections.  Actually
maybe she wouldn't mind an online list--she didn't specify.

Does anyone know of any directories that I am unaware of?  I told her,
if anyone knows, it'll be you guys!

Thanks in advance for your help,
Kathy Hoover
_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze and other costume sourcebooks
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Among the treasures I brought back from Italy were scads of books.

The new Uffizi & Pitti Palace painting catalog. All the stuff. All color!
The Galleria della Accademia (Florence) catalog. Home of Michaelangelo's David.
The Galleria della Accademia (Venice) catalog. 14th thru 16th Venetian
painting primarily with good 14th thru 16th examples from thruout
Italy. Amazing Russian icon collection.

and my favorite:
"Moda a Firenze: Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza"
No, she didnt have the flu, but she did have money.  I bought 3 copies
if this one knowing my friends would scream "dibbs". They did. It's
basically QEWU for Eleanor & Florence.  Authors are on staff at the
Pitti Palace home of Eleanor's burial gown.  Text is Italian &
English, side by side. The english leaves something to be desired.  It
can be both amusing and frustrating at times.  Doublecheck by reading
the Italian, if you can. (I cant, but fake it with French.)

It's companion catalog "I Gioileria dei Medici" is lovely if you like
16th c gems & jewels. Italian only.

Another catalog, that I didnt pick up, is the one for the exhibit
"Maria de'Medici: una principessa fiorentina alla trona de Francia".
The exhibit was stupendous.  They've pulled things from Italian
galleries and from galleries all over the world for this one. Italian
only, as I recall. Better check.
http://www.polomuseale.firenze.it/english/mostre/
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze and other costume sourcebooks
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> and my favorite:
> "Moda a Firenze: Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza"
> No, she didnt have the flu, but she did have money.  I bought 3 copies
> if this one knowing my friends would scream "dibbs". They did. It's
> basically QEWU for Eleanor & Florence.  Authors are on staff at the
> Pitti Palace home of Eleanor's burial gown.  Text is Italian &
> English, side by side. The english leaves something to be desired.  It
> can be both amusing and frustrating at times.  Doublecheck by reading
> the Italian, if you can. (I cant, but fake it with French.)

I just ordered a copy via mail and it is fabulous!!  Well worth the almost
$100 that I paid for it.  And I wasn't expecting it to be in english, too.
 That was a bonus.

And I am sure that you paid much less than I did so make sure your friends
appreciate how much money you saved them ;~>

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Universities with Costume Collections
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 20:42:09 -0500
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I don't know of a directory, but I do know of some collections:

Emily P. Reynolds Costume Collection
North Dakota State University
Fargo,ND
http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/ercc/

The University of Nebraska-Lincoln
Textiles, Clothing and Design Department
Barbara Trout  - Associate Professor, costume collection curator
(402) 472-6371
btrout1@unl.edu


Goldstein Museum of Design
University of Minnesota
http://goldstein.che.umn.edu/costume.html

Kim





-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Kathy Hoover
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 5:28 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Universities with Costume Collections


Hi,
I received an email today from the Dean of my department (the Library)
and she asked:

>Is there any directory of college and university historic dress
collections?  I know many land-grant universities >who used to have home
economics programs have some sort of dress collections.  Are you aware
of any 
>directory?

I sent her URLs for some of the schools I could think of off the top of
my head, along with listings that were at the Costumer's Manifesto and
the Costume Society of America.  But I couldn't think of anything that
was published and just referred to collegiate collections.  Actually
maybe she wouldn't mind an online list--she didn't specify.

Does anyone know of any directories that I am unaware of?  I told her,
if anyone knows, it'll be you guys!

Thanks in advance for your help,
Kathy Hoover
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1540s French Hood Images
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At 07:06 AM 8/3/2005, you wrote:
>I have often wondered, that there must be many portraits at the Louvre 
>Museum in Paris. Unfortunately i have never been there, but they must have 
>as many portraits from the period, as the english has. Dont know if there 
>are any french books arround.


Hi Bjarne,

I checked the online images from the Louvre, and while some were 
interesting for French hoods, all the images online are too small to be 
really usable, mainly because they take their images to include the lovely 
frames around the portraits as well. Great for seeing the overall image, 
but not as good when looking for details.

Because you mention it, I went looking for one of my books I had 
overlooked. I own a French book of Jean Clouet's drawings, but my French is 
very rusty. I hope to scan the images in soon anyway, as there are a couple 
that would do very nicely.

Thank you for your help and suggestions.

Kimiko


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
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References: <s2f10cda.095@WVUGW01.wvu.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Universities with Costume Collections
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 22:31:10 -0500
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Contact the textiles department at UT Austin. They have an extensive 
collection in their basement and in the libraries. Most of it is closed to 
the public because they are mainly used for Grad studies. I suspect that 
many larger universities also have such collections. All you need is one 
that has one to tell you about the others.

Chiara

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 5:28 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Universities with Costume Collections


> Hi,
> I received an email today from the Dean of my department (the Library)
> and she asked:
>
>>Is there any directory of college and university historic dress
> collections?  I know many land-grant universities >who used to have home
> economics programs have some sort of dress collections.  Are you aware
> of any
>>directory?
>
> I sent her URLs for some of the schools I could think of off the top of
> my head, along with listings that were at the Costumer's Manifesto and
> the Costume Society of America.  But I couldn't think of anything that
> was published and just referred to collegiate collections.  Actually
> maybe she wouldn't mind an online list--she didn't specify.
>
> Does anyone know of any directories that I am unaware of?  I told her,
> if anyone knows, it'll be you guys!
>
> Thanks in advance for your help,
> Kathy Hoover
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze and other costume sourcebooks
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> The new Uffizi & Pitti Palace painting catalog. All the stuff. All color!

*All* the stuff? Including Laudomia de'Medici?

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Aug  4 01:05:37 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] A Career Question
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Status: RO

This may sound a bit bizarre, but I really don't know where else to ask this
and stand the chance of getting an informed answer.  Over the past years
I've been thinking of how to incorporate my love of costuming into a career
and possibly a degree.  I'd really like to finish college, but in doing so I
want a degree I can use and feel good about spending an insane amount of
money on.  I've recently been thinking of getting into restoration.  I'm
really interested in the restoration/reproduction area of costuming but I
don't know where to go from there.  Is there a degree for such a thing? Or,
more importantly, an actual job field for such a person?  If so what
category would such a degree or job position be under or titled?  I
essentially now know what I want to do, yet have zero clue as how to achieve
it.  I'd appreciate anything anyone has to say on the matter. 

Thanks for your time

 

 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1540s French Hood Images
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At 08:33 AM 8/3/2005, you wrote:
>Kimiko, I'm so glad you are doing this! An image collection of French 
>hoods has been on the to-do list for a long time.
<<snip lots of great info>>


Hi Hope,

Thanks so much for your links. I will be using most of them on the revised 
page, and you pointed me to a couple of images others had suggested, but 
the names were unknown. And the side view from the coin was just wonderful 
to find.

I really appreciate your help on this project.

Kimiko


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> Because you mention it, I went looking for one of my books I had
> overlooked. I own a French book of Jean Clouet's drawings, but my French
is
> very rusty. I hope to scan the images in soon anyway, as there are a
couple
> that would do very nicely.

http://www.artcyclopedia.com/artists/clouet_francois.html
bildindex has a few images that are interesting. And I know there is a great
french site that has many many many images of his sketches.
Jacond, which is also listed there. There are 77 images, many of whuich are
depictions of women.

Don't forget this page as well:
http://www.artcyclopedia.com/nationalities/French.html
To find other French artists on the web.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: [h-cost] Protein Based  Stain Removal:  Was Pros and cons,
	Handkerchief Linen
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Hello, Bjarne  :o )

I beg your forgiveness if you already know this, and I apologize if I make faux pas.  

I stand in such awe of the work you do, for you to mention the spot from the mosquito bite sparked memory. I realize historical clothing would have had such spots, but...  what a shame for your garment to be marred.  I always "twitch" when it happens to me  lol

I know most are aware of the lemon and sun treatment for stains on white, natural fabrics (my Grandmother taught me this one), but there is another treatment I learned of.  If you have access to bottled spices, there is something called meat tenderizer which comes in a crystal form (looks similar to salt).  It comes seasoned or unseasoned, and I used to get it in the US under the name of Adolph's.  I've not found that one in Australia, but have found others, so I assume it is available world-wide.  The unseasoned will appear white (I was always afraid the seasoned would stain, though never had it happen).

If your garment can be soaked with cold water, or small part thereof, (and you have tested this treatment on a sample of your fabric and found it safe for the fiber and color) you then sprinkle the tenderizer on the spot and slightly work it in...  being careful not to abrade your fabric.  Let the spot soak for sometime in cold water with another generous sprinkle of the tenderizer atop the stain.  Check it periodically, and if it needs to be sprinkled again or allowed to soak longer and the fabric is doing alright with that, let it soak until it appears gone.  Rinse and wash as usual.  I've been known to dissolve the tenderizer in water and let an entire garment soak for a week, but then it takes a sturdy, color/fabric for that  ;o )   I have used this successfully on cottons and synthetics, both white and colored.

I believe the reason this works is that it is made with papaya enzymes, which break down protein.  Human body fluids are protein based, to my knowledge.  If the fabric is of a protein based fiber or is dyed with protein dyes, I'd make absolutely sure to test a sample of the fabric before risking your garment.  That said, I leave this treatment to your judgment.

An aside:  The treasure of my family has been the handing on of the needle arts generation to generation.  Through necessity, I learned to rid my pieces of "needle prick marks"  ;o )

Humbly,

Susie

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 16:29:22 +0200
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pros and cons, was Handkerchief Linen

(snip)

Thanks Kate,
I think i payed about 125 dollars back in 2000 for 1 meter of this 
hankerchief linen. It original is used for making hankerchiefs edged with 
very fine homemade point laces. I knew it from my time when i made laces. 
And i thoaght it would be wonderfull for shirts and chemises. I have washed 
it only about 2-3 times a year when i goes to events, and the only thing 
wrong with it today is a tiny spot i got at the first event where i got a 
moskito bite. It has not gotten thinner of wash and the quality is the same.
We have a special word for this linen in Denmark we call it Kammerdug, wich 
could be translated to something about chamber cloth. It is the finest linen 
available today, and the obstacle is sertanly the price.
However i only wash it by hand, no machine, but this is mostly because i 
dont want to ruin my cotton lace wich is attached to it.

Bjarne 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Career Question: Education and going into business:
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Alexis,

I am sorry for re-titling this post, but I am hoping that it will make it 
easier to find in the archives one day.

Your questions are ones and several h-costume members in the past have asked 
these types of questions over the years.  Since you didn't say where you 
were located, I will assume you are in the U.S.  I remember when Margo 
started her pattern business and we discussed it on h-costume in great 
detail.  You might want to check the archives for Margo's messages.  Margo 
if you are still on h-costume can you please tell us what year you were 
starting your business.

Education:
Textile conservation is a field generally requires a degree.  There are 
several universities that have a textile program.  The programs are in all 
kinds of departments now, since the Home Economics title disappeared from 
most school catalogs.  Maybe do a search for colleges for textile science, 
consumer sciences, etc.  The schooling for textiles covers chemistry, burn 
tests, dyes, etc.  I believe the state of North Carolina's universities have 
these types of program because of all the textile mills in the state.  The 
reason you might want a degree in conservation is because of liability. 
When someone is wanting something conserved, they will want to see proof of 
your education and experience you have.  College is also a good way to get 
internships in some of the nice conservations labs at museums.  If I 
remember correctly Colonial Williamsburg wants graduate level students for 
internships in their textile conservation labs.  BTW, there is a textile 
society of America.  You might want to write them and ask what you need to 
have in education to go into textile conservation.  I know in Richmond, VA 
we have a local society.

As for the reproduction design business:

You can learn a lot by reading h-costume.  Several people are in business 
for themselves.  You can also learn more in-depth costume history here than 
in most university costume history classes.  The schools I attended required 
three semesters of costume history and two semesters of costume research. 
BUT because of a big cut in the funding of university art schools, the 
costume history classes are being squeezed into one semester.  I have been 
listening to professors complain about this for a year or so.  If you are 
interested in one certain time period to design for, maybe list members can 
suggest some good email lists for that specific period.  If museums are 
available in your area with that period of costumes, ask to visit the 
storage areas to research.

Going into business information:

If you want to go into business, I do suggest that you take business 
classes.  So many people start out in business and do not realize how much 
they needed that education until they go belly-up or the IRS is knocking at 
their door.  You can take business classes at a community college, or the 
Small Business Administration (SBA).  Either one is a lot cheaper than going 
through a university.  The SBA will also assign you a business mentor.  Even 
though the mentor may not have the same kind of business you will have, they 
can teach you rules that all businesses have to play by, examples: filing 
local, state, and federal taxes,  book keeping for these govts., business 
licensing, business laws, trademarks, copyrights, self-employment taxes, 
etc. You can also learn from the SBA about networking, marketing strategies 
and planning, advertising, small business loans, business plans, etc. A 
business owners' education is an on-going process, even after being in 
business for several years... laws change, the market changes, new 
technologies, etc.

Many businesses fail because they didn't have a firm understanding or 
education of how to run a business.  The majority of businesses do not pull 
a profit in the first five years.  Profits are re-invested back into the 
business.  Something to look into, if you are planning a home-based 
business, check with your city or county has your home zoned to do so.  My 
business is run out of my home and is zoned to do so.  I know someone else 
had a home based business for a year. A neighbor reported her for having the 
business out of her home. Then she had to pay big fines to the county and 
the govt. shut down her business because her home was in an area that was 
not zoned for home-based businesses.  Always check and don't assume!

Another good source to look at are business magazines.  My favorite business 
magazine is Entrepreneur.  I have yet to see a fashion/costume business 
profiled, but I have learned so much from this magazine. Barnes & Noble has 
a nice selection of business magazines.  I would call the SBA and ask what 
magazines do they suggest for a business.  The federal govt. has several 
free publications about starting a small business.

Some things to know about owning your own business:
***You never sleep the first few years.  The business is on your mind 24 
hours a day, especially a costume business.  Every one wears clothes!  Even 
while on vacation, watching TV, a film, etc. you are thinking about 
costumes.  Overall, most business owners on average work 80 hours a week.

***Except if you have an investor lined up, plan to fund your business with 
your own money.  Banks are very leery about making loans to start-up small 
businesses.

***Keep receipts on everything for the business.  Make sure to document on 
the back of the receipt, the vendor/store name, what the item is for, the 
date of purchase, and sub-total before taxes.  The ink on those receipts CAN 
fade over time and so can your memory.  If you don't have it documented, the 
IRS will not count it as an expense.

***Be organized with your records and stay consistent over the years of your 
business.  I use Microsoft Excel (spreadsheet) to keep all my business 
records.  If you don't know how to use spreadsheet software, there are lots 
of classes at community colleges.  Our county school system has adult 
education classes for very cheap prices. One class for is Excel for Small 
Businesses. I think it cost $60.  If you put your records on a computer, 
have several backups copies, and paper hard copies.

***Hire a professional company to do your taxes.  Get several referrals from 
others business owners in your area.  Before hiring someone to do your 
taxes, have in writing that the tax preparer company will go to IRS meetings 
if you are audited.  I learned this one the hard way.  Many moons ago, I 
owned a home-based child care business.  A private accountant did my taxes 
and verbally promised to go to bat with the IRS if I was audited. Well,  I 
got audited for one year of taxes.  The accountant disappeared!  That one 
year audit, turned into a three year business audit, and my business owing 
$10,000 to the IRS.  With my current business, I use a national 
tax-preparing business. Every year they hand me a contract with their 
signatures, stating that they will go to all IRS audits and interviews, AND 
they will pay the difference if there are any mistakes.  A very hard lesson 
learned. BTW, this scary audit was what encouraged me to go back to college 
and take as many business classes as I could.  My college professors told 
me, you don't have to take the accounting majors classes to be successful in 
business.  But you do need to know enough accounting that if the 
accountant/bookkeeper is cheating you.

I hope this advice helps you with your decision.  Best of luck to you!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blood stain in linen
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for Blood stains on Linen... put it in your mouth, and chew it out.  I kid 
you not.
Mari / Bridgette   Linen worker for more than 20 years now.


> >And i thoaght it would be wonderfull for shirts and chemises. I have washed
> >it only about 2-3 times a year when i goes to events, and the only thing
> >wrong with it today is a tiny spot i got at the first event where i got a
> >moskito bite.

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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20050802122602.HRSS9746.ibm58aec.bellsouth.net@mail.bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flour Sack
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 09:25:35 -0400
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Are you talking about the flour sack dish towels tha you get at 
WilliamSonoma? That are a very soft white cotton? Or are you talking about 
the flour sacks that used to be in prints that women in the Great Depression 
used to make clothing? I would imagine that they are the same material, but 
don't know for sure.
K
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wendirae@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 8:26 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Flour Sack


>I just wanted to thank everyone for their responses about the flour sack 
>fabric.
>
> Can you use the osnaberg for corsets or does it loosen up too much after 
> it has been washed?
>
> Sylvia - The osnaberg at the Joann's in Orlando seemed fairly stiff, not 
> as much as a duck cloth, but more than a broadcloth. I'm pretty sure I 
> looked at the information on the top of the bolt; I'll have to double 
> check it again.
>
> Thanks again for everyone's help!
> Wendi
>
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>
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blood stain in linen
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Other things that sometimes work on blood stains--
meat tenderizer (the enzyme "eats" blood)
 
the Carbona blood and milk formula
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Universities with Costume Collections
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In a message dated 8/3/2005 6:32:50 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
khoover@wvu.edu writes:

But I  couldn't think of anything that
was published and just referred to  collegiate collections.  Actually
maybe she wouldn't mind an online  list--she didn't specify.

Does anyone know of any directories that I am  unaware of?  I told her,
if anyone knows, it'll be you  guys!




The Costume Society of America's printed guide to costume collections in  
North America, including collegiate ones, I'm sure, is in press.  It is  being 
published by Texas Tech University Press and it should be out by May  next year.
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blood stain in linen
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Quoting M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>:

>
> for Blood stains on Linen... put it in your mouth, and chew it out.  I kid
> you not.
> Mari / Bridgette   Linen worker for more than 20 years now.
>

I know that this seems counter-intuitive because many dye recipies call 
for salt
to fix the dye -- but soak your item in salt water -- heavy on the salt.  I
learned this in Home Ec mumblety-mumble years ago and used it for getting out
those ugly repetitive blood stains from underwear.  Works like a charm --
usually soaking overnight does the trick.

Susan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Handkerchief Linen
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wendirae@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 9:47 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Handkerchief Linen


> Bjarne,
> Thanks for the information. By Pros and Cons it means good and bad aspects 
> of working with and wearing the fabric. So based on your email is is very 
> easy to work with, albeit expensive, but is it uncomfortable to wear? Does 
> it breathe or is it oppresive?
>
> Thanks,
> Wendi
>Hi Wendi,
Of cause you can breathe in it, it is linen?

Bjarne 


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Career Question
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 09:24:19 -0500
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Alexis--

Investigate colleges that have a textiles department. It's not really a
conservation degree you want. Look into history of fashion or textile
history. Sounds like you need to take some textiles classes, but your
degree may actually be in history or art, or even education--whatever
you have enough credits for.
I think you need to talk to someone helpful in the department you are
considering, and preferably in person.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Alexis 
Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 12:05 AM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] A Career Question


This may sound a bit bizarre, but I really don't know where else to ask
this and stand the chance of getting an informed answer.  Over the past
years I've been thinking of how to incorporate my love of costuming into
a career and possibly a degree.  I'd really like to finish college, but
in doing so I want a degree I can use and feel good about spending an
insane amount of money on.  I've recently been thinking of getting into
restoration.  I'm really interested in the restoration/reproduction area
of costuming but I don't know where to go from there.  Is there a degree
for such a thing? Or, more importantly, an actual job field for such a
person?  If so what category would such a degree or job position be
under or titled?  I essentially now know what I want to do, yet have
zero clue as how to achieve it.  I'd appreciate anything anyone has to
say on the matter. 

Thanks for your time

 

 

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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blood stain in linen
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What I heard many years ago was that your saliva will take out your own blood but not necessarily somebody else's. Is that true? I have in fact removed bloodstains with spit, but it was my blood and my spit....

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
Sent: Aug 4, 2005 8:50 AM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blood stain in linen

Quoting M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>:

>
> for Blood stains on Linen... put it in your mouth, and chew it out.  I kid
> you not.
> Mari / Bridgette   Linen worker for more than 20 years now.
>


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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protein Based Stain Removal: Was Pros and cons,
	Handkerchief Linen
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Using meat tenderizer is a good way to get rid of a stain that's been
there for a while. The fastest, cheapest and easiest way to get rid of
blood immediately - before it stains - is to use your own saliva. If I
am sewing and get a blood drop on my work, I grab some thread, chew on
it for a few seconds and lift the blood off right away with the wet
wad of thread. The blood disappears and doesn't come back. This only
works on your own blood; if you stick someone else, you need their
saliva. If I'm wearing something and cut myself and don't have any
thread, I will use my tongue to wet the blood spot; this too will
work, but it looks pretty strange to others.

Bjarne, I hope your stain comes out.
Lynn 



On 8/3/05, Lady Liberty <ladylibertywon@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hello, Bjarne  :o )
> 
> I beg your forgiveness if you already know this, and I apologize if I make faux pas.
> 
> I stand in such awe of the work you do, for you to mention the spot from the mosquito bite sparked memory. I realize historical clothing would have had such spots, but...  what a shame for your garment to be marred.  I always "twitch" when it happens to me  lol
> 
> I know most are aware of the lemon and sun treatment for stains on white, natural fabrics (my Grandmother taught me this one), but there is another treatment I learned of.  If you have access to bottled spices, there is something called meat tenderizer which comes in a crystal form (looks similar to salt).  It comes seasoned or unseasoned, and I used to get it in the US under the name of Adolph's.  I've not found that one in Australia, but have found others, so I assume it is available world-wide.  The unseasoned will appear white (I was always afraid the seasoned would stain, though never had it happen).
> 
> If your garment can be soaked with cold water, or small part thereof, (and you have tested this treatment on a sample of your fabric and found it safe for the fiber and color) you then sprinkle the tenderizer on the spot and slightly work it in...  being careful not to abrade your fabric.  Let the spot soak for sometime in cold water with another generous sprinkle of the tenderizer atop the stain.  Check it periodically, and if it needs to be sprinkled again or allowed to soak longer and the fabric is doing alright with that, let it soak until it appears gone.  Rinse and wash as usual.  I've been known to dissolve the tenderizer in water and let an entire garment soak for a week, but then it takes a sturdy, color/fabric for that  ;o )   I have used this successfully on cottons and synthetics, both white and colored.
> 
> I believe the reason this works is that it is made with papaya enzymes, which break down protein.  Human body fluids are protein based, to my knowledge.  If the fabric is of a protein based fiber or is dyed with protein dyes, I'd make absolutely sure to test a sample of the fabric before risking your garment.  That said, I leave this treatment to your judgment.
> 
> An aside:  The treasure of my family has been the handing on of the needle arts generation to generation.  Through necessity, I learned to rid my pieces of "needle prick marks"  ;o )
> 
> Humbly,
> 
> Susie
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 16:29:22 +0200
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pros and cons, was Handkerchief Linen
> 
> (snip)
> 
> Thanks Kate,
> I think i payed about 125 dollars back in 2000 for 1 meter of this
> hankerchief linen. It original is used for making hankerchiefs edged with
> very fine homemade point laces. I knew it from my time when i made laces.
> And i thoaght it would be wonderfull for shirts and chemises. I have washed
> it only about 2-3 times a year when i goes to events, and the only thing
> wrong with it today is a tiny spot i got at the first event where i got a
> moskito bite. It has not gotten thinner of wash and the quality is the same.
> We have a special word for this linen in Denmark we call it Kammerdug, wich
> could be translated to something about chamber cloth. It is the finest linen
> available today, and the obstacle is sertanly the price.
> However i only wash it by hand, no machine, but this is mostly because i
> dont want to ruin my cotton lace wich is attached to it.
> 
> Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Bjarne,
I apologize for the misunderstanding, I don't think I phrased the question properly. I meant to ask if the fabric breathes well so that you will stay cool without getting hot/overheated or having the fabric holding in too much heat or moisture. It's important down here in Florida where the heat and humidity are oppressive for several months out of the year!
Thanks,
Wendi

Bjarne wrote:
>Hi Wendi,
>Of cause you can breathe in it, it is linen?


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Handkerchief Linen
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On 8/4/05, wendirae@bellsouth.net <wendirae@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Bjarne,
> I apologize for the misunderstanding, I don't think I phrased the question properly. I meant to ask if the fabric breathes well so that you will stay cool without getting hot/overheated or having the fabric holding in too much heat or moisture. It's important down here in Florida where the heat and humidity are oppressive for several months out of the year!
> Thanks,
> Wendi

I believe Bjarne's point was that of course it is cool and breathable
- it is linen, famed for exactly those properties.  I absolutely love
handkerchief weight linen - I have one chemise of it, which is my
favorite.  I found some at a bargain once - the first time I went
shopping for linen.  I've kicked myself ever since for not buying the
whole bolt.

Catrijn

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Hi Wendi,
Well   i hav not used it in such hot weather conditions as you have, here in 
Scandinavia it is cooler.
But i have dansed quite a lot of it in Bath, and have a waistcoat and a coat 
over it, and a tight stock kravat. It drinkes the sweat nicely, and i still 
am able to breathe in it!

Bjarne


From: <wendirae@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 7:43 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Handkerchief Linen


> Bjarne,
> I apologize for the misunderstanding, I don't think I phrased the question 
> properly. I meant to ask if the fabric breathes well so that you will stay 
> cool without getting hot/overheated or having the fabric holding in too 
> much heat or moisture. It's important down here in Florida where the heat 
> and humidity are oppressive for several months out of the year!
> Thanks,
> Wendi
>
> Bjarne wrote:
>>Hi Wendi,
>>Of cause you can breathe in it, it is linen?
>
>
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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blood stain in linen
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Any kind of salt? table, sea, coarse, fine, iodized ??????

And does it matter that the 'stain' has been washed and dried already? Or does it have to be fresh?

Katheryne
of the many 'stained' items...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>

>> I know that this seems counter-intuitive because many dye recipies 
> call for salt to fix the dye -- but soak your item in salt water -- heavy on the 
> salt.  I learned this in Home Ec mumblety-mumble years ago and used it for 
> getting out those ugly repetitive blood stains from underwear.  Works like a 
> charm -- usually soaking overnight does the trick.
> Susan
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Kate,
It is very similar to the flour sack towels at W-S, but I'm looking for it on a bolt; like you would find regular fabric in a fabric store. 

Thanks,
Wendi
Kate wrote:
>Are you talking about the flour sack dish towels tha you >get at WilliamSonoma? That are a very soft white cotton? >Or are you talking about the flour sacks that used to be >in prints that women in the Great Depression used to make >clothing? I would imagine that they are the same >material, but don't know for sure.
>K


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Kahlara wrote:


> I have noticed that Joanne's sometimes appears to mix things up, but the local one is pretty limited that way...a huge selection of craft supplies, quilting, and home decor fabrics (that part isn't so bad actually). The actual garment fabric section takes up less than 1/4 of the fabric department and is heavily into fleeces and specialty (bridal/prom, baby, holiday) fabrics. Completely natural fabrics are hard to come by. :- (
>  

I find that the Joanne's stores vary quite a bit from location to 
location, as do their customers. I'm fortunate that there are two within 
driving distance so I can check both for natural fabrics. What sells out 
in one often ends up at the end of year clearance in the other, just a 
different neighborhood. So if you can check more than one store, do, 
because they don't have identical merchandise all the time.

Joann's carries linen in the spring. If you hit the end of season 
clearance you can sometimes get it cheap. They've had linen on clearance 
now for a month or two, and are doing the last couple of blow-out sales 
this month to get rid of as much spring and summer fabric as possible to 
make way for the holiday and fleece stuff. I got some almost gauze 
weight linen in June in black and tan for something like $2 a yard. This 
late in the summer I'd be hard pressed to find anything, though.

Unfortunately, the last two years embroidered linen has been the thing, 
and that's mostly what's left on the shelves, if anything. I almost wish 
they'd go back to electric blue and pink, which can at least be dyed over.

Every now and then they do those $1-$3 a yard sales, where they buy a 
random truckload of bolt ends from god-knows-where. Most of it is awful, 
but I've found some nice linen and silk in those piles by getting there 
early on the first day of the sale.

I have much better luck buying wool at Hancocks, which just seems to 
carry a better selection of it to begin with. Check the prices 
carefully, because they will mix plain solid color $5 wool in with the 
$15 checkered suit wools with no sign alerting you to such bargains.




Dawn


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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
>> The new Uffizi & Pitti Palace painting catalog. All the stuff. All color!
>*All* the stuff? Including Laudomia de'Medici?

No, my treasure, the picture of Laudonia that's shown in Francois
Boucher's book, lives in the Galleria Antichi e Moderna. Different
museum.
Is there something else you're thing of?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Hi,
I have tryed the tricks with your spit, it only works when the blood is 
fresh, and for the salt it is the same.
The blodstain i got from the moskito wont come away, tryed many things.
I discovered the stain, next time i washed it, and then it was two late.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blood stain in linen
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Quoting purplkat@optonline.net:

> Any kind of salt? table, sea, coarse, fine, iodized ??????

We just used plain old table salt.

>
> And does it matter that the 'stain' has been washed and dried 
> already? Or does it have to be fresh?

Truthfully, I don't remember.  I know that it doesn't matter if it's
dried; but I don't know if washing makes any difference.  I want to say
that it doesn't, but ...  (as my mother would say) I've slept since then!
At any rate, it couldn't hurt.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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> From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
>>> The new Uffizi & Pitti Palace painting catalog. All the stuff. All 
>>> color!
>>*All* the stuff? Including Laudomia de'Medici?
>
> No, my treasure, the picture of Laudonia that's shown in Francois
> Boucher's book, lives in the Galleria Antichi e Moderna. Different
> museum.

I thought that was at the Pitti, since it's catalogued at the end of the 
Pitti catalog my father in law brought back when he want to Italy (no pic, 
but the info is there). I even had the room and the inventory number (I put 
it somewhere *safe* so, of course, now I can't find it). I'll have to ask to 
see that catalog again next time I see him, and figure out if it's written 
as being somewhere else. 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: need someone to make belt
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I am not from that area, but have you tried The Greater Bay Area Costumer's Guild?
 
http://www.gbacg.org/index.htm
 
original message

Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 11:57:04 -0700
From: Lavolta Press 
Subject: [h-cost] Need someone to make belt


Does anyone know where in the San Francisco area I can get a belt made 
to go with a vintage buckle? I have a big, heavy 20th-century enameled 
buckle (probably brass) with a very simple but unusual closure. It's 
Art Nouveau style but made in the later 20th century, probably an 
Oriental import. It has a blue suede belt that, aside from being worn, 
is blue. I almost never wear blue. Anyway, I want to replace the belt 
with an identical one in some shade of brown that goes with the buckle 
(which is brass color, dark blue, and red). 

Anyone know a reliable leatherworker who can do this at a reasonable price?

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blood stain in linen
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> What I heard many years ago was that your saliva will take out your own blood
> but not necessarily somebody else's.

It's an old wives' tale built out of coincidence,

-C.



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Laudomia's listed in my copy of the Pitti's catalog, not shown though. It's 
an older copy - I bought it about 5 years ago or so. I'm not home so I don't 
know the publication date.

kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze and other costume sourcebooks


>> From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
>>>> The new Uffizi & Pitti Palace painting catalog. All the stuff. All 
>>>> color!
>>>*All* the stuff? Including Laudomia de'Medici?
>>
>> No, my treasure, the picture of Laudonia that's shown in Francois
>> Boucher's book, lives in the Galleria Antichi e Moderna. Different
>> museum.
>
> I thought that was at the Pitti, since it's catalogued at the end of the 
> Pitti catalog my father in law brought back when he want to Italy (no pic, 
> but the info is there). I even had the room and the inventory number (I 
> put it somewhere *safe* so, of course, now I can't find it). I'll have to 
> ask to see that catalog again next time I see him, and figure out if it's 
> written as being somewhere else. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flour Sack
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 20:24:12 -0500
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> It is very similar to the flour sack towels at W-S, but I'm looking for it 
> on a bolt; like you would find regular fabric in a fabric store.

>>Are you talking about the flour sack dish towels tha you >get at 
>>WilliamSonoma? That are a very soft white cotton? >Or are you talking 
>>about the flour sacks that used to be >in prints that women in the Great 
>>Depression used to make >clothing? I would imagine that they are the same 
>> >material, but don't know for sure.


I would suggest that you check the hand of some authentic flour sacks before 
substituting. The actual fabric used to make sacks for flour is *very* 
different from the pieces of white cotton sold as "flour sack towels".  The 
cotton sold as flour sack towels is close to the feel of the original sacks 
AFTER it had been used and used and used.  Towels were often the last of a 
long line of things made from the fabric. Next stop was the rag bin.

The new fabric taken from a freshly emptied sack of flour has a lot more 
substance to it. Much more firm and dense. Once it had been made into 
curtains or clothing, then remade a time or two, then handed down a few 
times, it started feeling much softer and thinner.

I'm not well versed in clothing terminology, but new flour sacking feels a 
lot more like fine, dense canvas or denim than those white towels.

Denise
landofoz 

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Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 18:42:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protein Based Stain Removal: Was Pros and cons,
	Handkerchief Linen
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hello all....

Strangely enough, today I met a lady who has a company that cleans up
crime scenes.  Since we were having this discussion on the list, I asked
what she thought about getting blood out of things.  Before I even
finished asking the questions, she said "H2O2" also known as hydrogen
peroxide.  I asked her about the meat tenderizer and she confirmed that it
would also work.

So, being that she does this kind of thing for a living.....I'd say these
two are verified by an expert.  Now whether or not your fabric will handle
them is another matter.  I say make sure and test a small, inconspicuous
area.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Diana Habra wrote:

> Hello all....
> 
> Strangely enough, today I met a lady who has a company that cleans up
> crime scenes.  Since we were having this discussion on the list, I asked
> what she thought about getting blood out of things.  Before I even
> finished asking the questions, she said "H2O2" also known as hydrogen
> peroxide.  I asked her about the meat tenderizer and she confirmed that it
> would also work.


Hydrogen peroxide and clean water rinses have worked for me. It's also 
useful for mild bleaching of vegetable-based stains, such as tomato 
sauce and sometimes mud.



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bran vs sawdust
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2005 08:40:05 -0400
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Sawdust from a bandsaw is much more consistently fine than from a table saw 
or radial arm saw -- that from a belt sander will be even finer. Try a 
cabinet making shop or a theatre.  Even college maintenance shops.
Kate



>
> My experience making pincushions (ObCostume: surely these are a fashion 
> accessory? <g>) has led me to prefer sifted sawdust over bran, for 
> anything but the shortest-term use.
>
> The reason being -- if bran has enough nourishment in it to be fed to 
> horses, it also has enough nourishment in it to attract bugs. Having a 
> couple of pincushions riddled with carpet-bettle holes was quite enough to 
> convince me to use sawdust in the future.
>
> Crumbled and finely sifted peat moss from the garden store works, too.
> -- 
> ____________________________________________________________
>
> O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
> +     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________
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>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Hi,
>I have tryed the tricks with your spit, it only works when the blood is
>fresh, and for the salt it is the same.
>The blodstain i got from the moskito wont come away, tryed many things.
>I discovered the stain, next time i washed it, and then it was two late.

I'm a believer in bleach, even on linen, but I understand that you don't 
want to damage some other threads?  So that's out.  Have you tried lying it 
out in the sun for a while?  You may not get the level of sun that we get 
here, but sun bleaching linen is a time honored process.

Marc


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Aug  5 14:21:14 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BAY106-F79512D579660A3E894B24BEC70@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:  blood stains linens
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2005 20:19:52 +0200
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Hi Mark,
Really it does not matter that much with this blod stain.
It is on my left breastpart, and a gentleman is never to be seen only in a 
shirt. So i always have the waistcoat and jacket on.
Nobody will ever know, except you whom i told you this.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2005 7:54 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: blood stains linens


> >From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>Hi,
>>I have tryed the tricks with your spit, it only works when the blood is
>>fresh, and for the salt it is the same.
>>The blodstain i got from the moskito wont come away, tryed many things.
>>I discovered the stain, next time i washed it, and then it was two late.
>
> I'm a believer in bleach, even on linen, but I understand that you don't 
> want to damage some other threads?  So that's out.  Have you tried lying 
> it out in the sun for a while?  You may not get the level of sun that we 
> get here, but sun bleaching linen is a time honored process.
>
> Marc
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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>>>> The new Uffizi & Pitti Palace painting catalog. All the stuff. All
>>>> color!
>>>*All* the stuff? Including Laudomia de'Medici?
>
>> ..., the picture of Laudonia that's shown in Francois
>> Boucher's book, lives in the Galleria Antichi e Moderna. Different
>> museum.

>I thought that was at the Pitti, since it's catalogued at the end of the
>Pitti catalog my father in law brought back ....

Perhaps it was on loan to the Pitti?
That reminds me, tho'.  Buoncastilo in Trento (lovely castle, just
restored) had a full length, life-size painting that they called
Laudonia de'Medici. My photos didnt come out (I had to shoot from out
of the room cuz the museum guards were too unfriendly for my secret
powers to charm.
--cin

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	<008b01c5995c$6302b550$2ad12b42@denise8541f2db>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flour Sack
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Makes sense that it would be a stronger, firmer feel.  I can't image those 
towels holding much flour.
Kate

> The new fabric taken from a freshly emptied sack of flour has a lot more 
> substance to it. Much more firm and dense. Once it had been made into 
> curtains or clothing, then remade a time or two, then handed down a few 
> times, it started feeling much softer and thinner.
>
> I'm not well versed in clothing terminology, but new flour sacking feels a 
> lot more like fine, dense canvas or denim than those white towels.
>
> Denise
> landofoz
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Subject: [h-cost] Slightly ot costume fun
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Tomorrow we will go to a medieval/fantasy fair.
Yeasterday I realized that my cute little bunny backpack didn't have a 
medieval dress!!!!! :-[
So today I searched trough my fabric leftovers and made a cute costume 
for her.
http://www.mystictimes.nl/MBunny/Mb.jpg
http://www.mystictimes.nl/MBunny/Mbb.jpg

Greetings,
       Deredere

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> My experience making pincushions (ObCostume: surely these are a 
> fashion accessory? <g>) has led me to prefer sifted sawdust over bran,

> for anything but the shortest-term use.

I've found that I much prefer the sand used by chinchilla owners for
their pets to bath in. It can be found at larger pet stores, and has the
advantage of keeping the pointy bits nice and sharp, not to mention that
it never breaks down. One caveat - do NOT get it in your eyes! 

Kate McClure
Speaking from gritty experience

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly ot costume fun
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Very sweet! =D>
Joan

At 12:28 PM 8/5/2005, you wrote:
>Tomorrow we will go to a medieval/fantasy fair.
>Yeasterday I realized that my cute little bunny backpack didn't have 
>a medieval dress!!!!! :-[
>So today I searched trough my fabric leftovers and made a cute 
>costume for her.
>http://www.mystictimes.nl/MBunny/Mb.jpg
>http://www.mystictimes.nl/MBunny/Mbb.jpg
>
>Greetings,
>       Deredere

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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly ot costume fun
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THAT is to darned cute!  My 6 yr. old now want her sheep backpack dressed up too :0
 
Thanks  for the idea
 
Chris G.

Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
Tomorrow we will go to a medieval/fantasy fair.
Yeasterday I realized that my cute little bunny backpack didn't have a 
medieval dress!!!!! :-[
So today I searched trough my fabric leftovers and made a cute costume 
for her.
http://www.mystictimes.nl/MBunny/Mb.jpg
http://www.mystictimes.nl/MBunny/Mbb.jpg

Greetings,
Deredere

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On Friday 05 August 2005 3:28 pm, Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> Tomorrow we will go to a medieval/fantasy fair.
> Yeasterday I realized that my cute little bunny backpack didn't have a
> medieval dress!!!!! :-[
> So today I searched trough my fabric leftovers and made a cute costume
> for her.
> http://www.mystictimes.nl/MBunny/Mb.jpg
> http://www.mystictimes.nl/MBunny/Mbb.jpg

That's....incredible!  Or incredibly cute (take your pick).  Thanks for 
sharing!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Subject: [h-cost] Late 15th Century ornamentation and other questions.
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I had mentioned earlier that we are having a Medieval themed wedding next June. I think I have my dress narrowed down. In the 'Medieval Costume of England and France' by Mary Houston she includes four line drawings taken from "The Lady and The Unicorn" tapestries. I really like them. I also found a reproduction tapestry company that has all six. I'm assuming that their estimated age - created sometime between 1490 and 1511 - is correct. http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/lady-with-the-unicorn.html
 
I can't decide between using 'sense of hearing' and 'sense of touch' as a template, but I'm leaning towards sense of hearing.
 
Anyway, my questions are...
 
1. What on earth is on her head? http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me095.jpg and http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me100.jpg I haven't seen anything like this headdress elsewhere, but it appears in four of the unicorn tapestries. Is this possibly a moorish influence? (the headdress in 'sense of touch' is almost Siamese/Balinese looking from the examples I have! http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me080.jpg )
 
2. What sort of ornamentation/embellishments were typical of that time? The pictures vary in their clarity, but it definitely looks like the neckline, cuffs, and trim of the surcotte are adorned with 'ouches' or something of the sort. Was embroidery used at all for embellishing clothing yet?
 
3. Can these be considered a reliable source or are they more the fanciful creations of the tapestries' designer?
 
4. Would these be considered French fashion of the time?
 
And no, I didn't know there was a fictional book based on these tapestries until I started looking for pictures of them.
 
Annette M


		
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Here in the U.S., at least, you can get something called a "bleach 
pen".  It is a gel form of bleach (so it doesn't run, and only minimally 
soaks in) in an applicator similar to a felt tip pen without the felt (tiny 
hole in tip).  It is designed for applying to tiny spots on white areas 
where you wouldn't want to bleach the whole thing.  I use it on my modern 
white tops that have lots of colored embroidery - I'm always spilling 
something on them.  You can then put the treated item in regular wash - the 
tiny amount of bleach doesn't affect other things.

You might be able to experiment with mixing a drop of bleach with a drop of 
liquid soap or something else thick, and applying with a toothpick or 
similar.  Test first, obviously.

(side comment - fiber artists have begun using these pens to get intricate 
designs in discharge dyeing.)

Sandy
At 05:48 PM 8/5/2005, you wrote:
>From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] RE:  blood stains linens
>
> >From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> >Hi, I have tryed the tricks with your spit, it only works when the blood is
> >fresh, and for the salt it is the same.
> >The blodstain i got from the moskito wont come away, tryed many things.
> >I discovered the stain, next time i washed it, and then it was two late.
>
>I'm a believer in bleach, even on linen, but I understand that you don't
>want to damage some other threads?  So that's out.
>
>Marc

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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This not my period of interest,but my best guess is that it is her hair
wrapped in ribbon.

De



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Skipping to the most pertinent question regarding the Cluny unicorn
tapestries

> 3. Can these be considered a reliable source or are they more the
> fanciful creations of the tapestries' designer?

The latter, in large part. Overall, the Lady's dresses include quite a
number of elements that I've seen only in allegorical or fantasy figures
in art of this period; she is essentially being represented as a goddess
or otherwise other-worldly figure. The Lady's maid is dressed closer to
reality in most part, though with some elements that are probably still
fantasy. The headdresses in particular are not trustworthy, though there
are some recongizably fashionable elements about some of them. Also, I
would not take literally the heavy jeweled borders (particularly jewels on
the hem), and I'm a little leery of the placement of the overdress slits.
In some cases the layering is nonsensical if you compare what's visible at
hem, sleeves, and neckline -- that is, to make certain of the ensembles
work, you have to fake layers, which technically might have been done but
most likely represents a fantasy representation (more like stage costume)
rather than a reflection of actual practice.

You can certainly come up with some lovely dresses based on the tapestry
figures -- I've done it myself -- but it would probably take you a very
long time of research (and much comparison with other Franco-Flemish art
of this period) to get a sense of which elements are likely based in
period practice and which ones the period viewer would have recognized as
fanciful or allegorical. If you want to produce something documentably
accurate as real-people wear, don't start here. If you want to produce
something that embodies the period ideal of beauty and luxury, then this
is a good model.

> And no, I didn't know there was a fictional book based on these
> tapestries until I started looking for pictures of them.

By Tracy Chevalier, the same author who wrote "Girl with a Pearl Earring,"
which in my mind was better. For "The Lady With the Unicorn," Chevalier
obviously did a lot of research into the tapestry-weaving industry, but
it's clear that she doesn't have a thorough understanding of costume; her
fleeting references to the characters' clothing are vague (possibly
deliberately, to avoid making errors, though she still makes a few), and
she completely overlooks the highly significant clothing of the figures in
the tapestries, though she does dwell on the symbolic and realistic
elements of the other items in the tapestries.

--Robin

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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Yes, they're more fantasy than anything else, but for a wedding dress who
cares? They would all be lovely. I am not familiar with the belgian versions
seen on this site, but there are fine books available of the French
tapestries.

That's her hair sticking out like a tassle. If I were making this (and
there's one version on the French tapestries that I think is charming,
bizarre though it is), I would use false hair the same color as my own. To
me, it looks like false hair wrapped with ribbons and sort of draped around
the had or headcovering or whatever you call it. There doesn't seem to be
any attempt to make it look like her real hair -- there's no where for it to
have come from!

I made a sort of hat inspired by a different fantasy medieval artwork. I
don't remember the original (gasp!) but it looked just like a long, long
hank of fake hair wrapped with ribbons and tied around the head like a
ribbon, with the two long ends making a big tail. So that's what I did. It
looked just like the original, but I used really cheap hair and it drove me
nuts. Little pieces kept getting out, they were like spun plastic and stuck
everywhere. So if you do use hair, spend a few bucks on it!

Gail Finke

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Handkerchief Linen
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 22:17:15 +0000
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Personally, I find this material the best to wear in hot muggy weather.  I have several yards of it to make 'modern full length and half slips.  I don't know if the cotton slips are showinf up other plcwa, but here in Everett, WA the Target store has been carrying cotton slips foe a while and I love them.  But I think linen would be better.

I also love the feel of the linen on my skin...

But, as I menrioned, it's just my personal preference.
Elena 
(not the other Elena with a web page)  

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Bjarne, 
> Thanks for the information. By Pros and Cons it means good and bad aspects of 
> working with and wearing the fabric. So based on your email is is very easy to 
> work with, albeit expensive, but is it uncomfortable to wear? Does it breathe or 
> is it oppresive? 
> 
> Thanks, 
> Wendi 
> Bjarne wrote: 
> 
> >Hi Wendi, 
> >I dont know what you mean with Pros and Cons is, but i >have imported the most 
> expensive and lovely handkerchief >linen from Rotterdam. I made my 18th century 
> gentlemans >shirt of it, and it is very very lovely to work with, >irons well, 
> washes well, and alas very very expensive. >Also my stock cravat is made of this 
> material. 
> > 
> >Let me know what this pros and cons are. 
> > 
> >Bjarne 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: unicorn tapestries
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On Sat, 6 Aug 2005, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> Yes, they're more fantasy than anything else, but for a wedding dress
> who cares? They would all be lovely. I am not familiar with the
> belgian versions seen on this site, but there are fine books available
> of the French tapestries.

In particular, the Cluny Museum sells a catalog about them, with large
fold-out color images and lots of close-ups. It comes in an English
version, too. My copy is La Dame a la Licorne, by Alain
Erlande-Brandenburg (Paris: Editions de la Reunion des Musees Nationaux,
1979), ISBN 2711801187. I have used mine so much that the binding is in
pieces.

> That's her hair sticking out like a tassle. If I were making this (and
> there's one version on the French tapestries that I think is charming,
> bizarre though it is), I would use false hair the same color as my
> own. To me, it looks like false hair wrapped with ribbons and sort of
> draped around the had or headcovering or whatever you call it. There
> doesn't seem to be any attempt to make it look like her real hair --
> there's no where for it to have come from!

I've made it work both on me (with my own hair) and on a friend (with a
long blonde wig). Separate the hair into two halves down the back. Cross
the two tails, and wrap each with ribbon while pulling it around and up
the opposite sides of the head. Where they meet, use the ribbon to tie
them together and then wrap them into a single tassel. If you do this over
a draped velvet headdress such as is shown, you can make it sit so that it
sticks up and the loose ends of hair at the top spout like a fountain --
really bizarre but just like the picture.

This was part of the show-and-tell for a dress and textiles session that
covered pavilions and the Unicorn Tapestry costumes, at the Medieval
Congress in 1990. To drum up a little interest, we set up a tableau
display on the theme of the tapestries, though by no means an exact
reproduction of any of them. My research partner Verna Rutz brought the
red-and-gold pavilion she made, which is quite similar to the one in the
final tapestry, and I made the costumes for the Lady (played by Emilysue
Pinnell, now Reichardt) and her maid (me). The Lady's costume was mostly
based on the one in A Mon Seul Desire (the pavilion tapestry) with the
headdress from Hearing and the neckline from Smell, and the Maid's was
mostly like the one in the Smell tapestry. Emilysue played her vielle, and
she and Verna also brought two enormous stuffed toys -- a unicorn and a
lion -- to add to the atmosphere. It was amusing ;-)

Emilysue, I believe, still has the Lady's costume, and I still have the
Maid's, which would serve quite well as a reasonable fashionable dress,
though I suspect it would be rather tight on me now. I'm still pleased
with the cuts, but I had to make some concessions in fabrics to achieve
the "look." I used drapery brocades and moires (which were probably mostly
rayons and acetates), and recycled a velvet bedspread (probably cotton,
but it had a nice uniform texture and no crushing problem). They all
looked exactly right and behaved surprisingly well, and I frankly don't
think I could find silk in those patterns and textures anyway, so it was
probably as close as I could get short of having the fabrics made
specially. I did use a lot of glass jewels and brass studs instead of real
jewels and gold, of course, but then the quantity of gold and jewels on
the Lady's dresses probably wasn't realistic anyway (which was the point
of the paper).

--Robin


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From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
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Thank you Robin,
 
That's why I asked. :- ) All that ornamentation seemed excessive. (and more than I wanted to deal with too!) I love research, so hopefully my enthusiasm won't run out before I find the answers I need.
 
I did by chance happen to find a little thing about headdresses late last night that had just one example that was very similar and was referenced as German. Appeared to be a rondelle? with a brooch or cabochon and plume at the front with a veil in back. Not the same, but similar.
 
 
>>From: Kahlara 
Subject: [h-cost] Late 15th Century ornamentation and other questions.

I had mentioned earlier that we are having a Medieval themed wedding next June. I think I have my dress narrowed down. In the 'Medieval Costume of England and France' by Mary Houston she includes four line drawings taken from "The Lady and The Unicorn" tapestries. I really like them. I also found a reproduction tapestry company that has all six. I'm assuming that their estimated age - created sometime between 1490 and 1511 - is correct. http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/lady-with-the-unicorn.html

I can't decide between using 'sense of hearing' and 'sense of touch' as a template, but I'm leaning towards sense of hearing.

Anyway, my questions are...

1. What on earth is on her head? http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me095.jpg and http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me100.jpg I haven't seen anything like this headdress elsewhere, but it appears in four of the unicorn tapestries. Is this possibly a moorish influence? (the headdress in 'sense of touch' is almost Siamese/Balinese looking from the examples I have! http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me080.jpg )

2. What sort of ornamentation/embellishments were typical of that time? The pictures vary in their clarity, but it definitely looks like the neckline, cuffs, and trim of the surcotte are adorned with 'ouches' or something of the sort. Was embroidery used at all for embellishing clothing yet?

3. Can these be considered a reliable source or are they more the fanciful creations of the tapestries' designer?

4. Would these be considered French fashion of the time?

And no, I didn't know there was a fictional book based on these tapestries until I started looking for pictures of them.

Annette M

------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2005 23:53:13 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 15th Century ornamentation and other
questions.

Skipping to the most pertinent question regarding the Cluny unicorn
tapestries

> 3. Can these be considered a reliable source or are they more the
> fanciful creations of the tapestries' designer?

The latter, in large part. Overall, the Lady's dresses include quite a
number of elements that I've seen only in allegorical or fantasy figures
in art of this period; she is essentially being represented as a goddess
or otherwise other-worldly figure. The Lady's maid is dressed closer to
reality in most part, though with some elements that are probably still
fantasy. The headdresses in particular are not trustworthy, though there
are some recongizably fashionable elements about some of them. Also, I
would not take literally the heavy jeweled borders (particularly jewels on
the hem), and I'm a little leery of the placement of the overdress slits.
In some cases the layering is nonsensical if you compare what's visible at
hem, sleeves, and neckline -- that is, to make certain of the ensembles
work, you have to fake layers, which technically might have been done but
most likely represents a fantasy representation (more like stage costume)
rather than a reflection of actual practice.

You can certainly come up with some lovely dresses based on the tapestry
figures -- I've done it myself -- but it would probably take you a very
long time of research (and much comparison with other Franco-Flemish art
of this period) to get a sense of which elements are likely based in
period practice and which ones the period viewer would have recognized as
fanciful or allegorical. If you want to produce something documentably
accurate as real-people wear, don't start here. If you want to produce
something that embodies the period ideal of beauty and luxury, then this
is a good model.

> And no, I didn't know there was a fictional book based on these
> tapestries until I started looking for pictures of them.

By Tracy Chevalier, the same author who wrote "Girl with a Pearl Earring,"
which in my mind was better. For "The Lady With the Unicorn," Chevalier
obviously did a lot of research into the tapestry-weaving industry, but
it's clear that she doesn't have a thorough understanding of costume; her
fleeting references to the characters' clothing are vague (possibly
deliberately, to avoid making errors, though she still makes a few), and
she completely overlooks the highly significant clothing of the figures in
the tapestries, though she does dwell on the symbolic and realistic
elements of the other items in the tapestries.

--Robin

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That is so cute!

From: Deredere Galbraith 
Subject: [h-cost] Slightly ot costume fun
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <42F3BDF9.3050405@kabelfoon.nl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Tomorrow we will go to a medieval/fantasy fair.
Yeasterday I realized that my cute little bunny backpack didn't have a 
medieval dress!!!!! :-[
So today I searched trough my fabric leftovers and made a cute costume 
for her.
http://www.mystictimes.nl/MBunny/Mb.jpg
http://www.mystictimes.nl/MBunny/Mbb.jpg

Greetings,
Deredere

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Have you tried Hydrogen Peroxide--the same kind you use for antiseptic and hair bleaching?  A nurse at an emergency room reccomended it after my Mom took a fall.

                                          Anna 
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Subject: [h-cost] French Hood images revised
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Hi all again,

I've injured my shoulder & back doing many scans and enlargements so I had 
to take a couple of days away from the computer. But I've been a busy bee 
updating the French hood image page for all the images people have sent me 
links of. I thank them all (and they are noted on the pages). They now 
range in time from pre 1500s to the 1570s (so far).

With the many images coming in, and more still to scan, I've moved 
everything to its own research section. Old pages will refresh to the new 
pages. But here is the new url.
Renaissance Research: French Hood Images
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood

Please, keep those images coming. I have learned so much from seeing these 
various images, it's really opened my eyes. I hope this helps others with 
their research as well.

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)

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Subject: [h-cost] fashion plates website 1870's
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In a message dated 7/23/2005 1:00:41 PM Central Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
At 08:49 AM 7/22/2005, you wrote:
>It might be this
>http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/costumehistweb/index.html
>
>For ealier plates I have several sites marked on my links page.
>
>Suzi
>
>www.suziclarke.co.uk


Oooooohhh, thanks for sharing that link. I've been wanting to do an 1870s 
bustle gown, but haven't done the research for it yet. I have definitely 
bookmarked that site for later.

Kimiko


Have you tried the Truly Victorian website for patterns from 1830-1900?  They 
are thoroughly researched and well made patterns and the owner/designers - 
Heather and Laura MacNaughton -- have often taught at Costume College in Van 
Nuys.  It it well worth a look if you are even thinking of doing anything in 
early bustle, natural form or late bustle period.  Plus the pictures of what 
others have made from their patterns are to die for!

Good luck.



Donna Scarfe (Mistress Felicity)
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bloodstain
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I am coming in late on this one.  Is the blood stain more than 24 days old? 
For 24 hours or less, I use cold water and dove soap and scrub with an old 
toothbrush.  Its always worked.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Plea for help with getting a parcel
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Hello, to everyone on the lists,
Please forgive if you receive this message more than once - I've sent it to a few lists.

My plea is this: I am interested in bidding for a couple of items on eBay, but the seller doesn't ship/post outside of the US. ( I asked. ) However, the seller is happy to send the parcel to someone in the US, to be forwarded to me in Australia.

Would anyone be willing to do this for me? I will pay all further costs for postage/shipping from the US to Australia, by whatever means is most convenient for whoever does this favour for me ( if anyone does ).

I don't like to ask this, but my friend in the US, of whom I asked this favour originally, hasn't replied, and I don't know anyone else in the US, apart from all the people in these lists.

It's not a matter of life or death, just an 'it would be nice if I could do this'.

Thank-you all for your patience.
Yours in hope?
Joannah.

Now back to topic ....... ;-)

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 15th Century ornamentation and other questions.
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> 1. What on earth is on her head?
http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me095.jpg and
http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me100.jpg I haven't seen anything
like this headdress elsewhere, but it appears in four of the unicorn
tapestries. Is this possibly a moorish influence? (the headdress in 'sense
of touch' is almost Siamese/Balinese looking from the examples I have!
http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me080.jpg )

She's got lappets worn without a hood/hennin etc. I've done the hairstyle
myself:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/yellowflemish.htm

I found ythe style in a few other examples of allegory (one a supposedly
English illumination, one German woodcut and another set of tapestries.)
Woops, I see I never did pop in the note about the figure of Clotho which is
from a tapestry from the Met Museum... and now I remember why I wanted to
recyle my Eowyn costume...;)

I chose to plait my hair as it is very long and would have hung down over my
face like a pony tail if I had've done a simple wrapping on my hair;)

My hair was crimped (plaits over night to give the hair body once brushed)
loosely plaited (to make the plaits appear as large as possible) then
crossed at the back (again to take up as much length as possible) tied at
the end and then pinned to the top of my head.


> 3. Can these be considered a reliable source or are they more the fanciful
creations of the tapestries' designer?

I would tend to say the designers used what they saw around them in fanciful
ways.

Take the buttons on the sides of the skirt of the maid in "smell." I haven't
seen buttons at the sides anywhere else and when I saw buttons in a few
other tapestries I began to think they were placed there purely by
imagination. But i have since seen a portrait of a donor with a gown that
buttons up the front from the 1490s.

So while I wouldn't dismiss all elements as pure fancy, I would hunt to see
if I had seen them used in depicting real people, and how they were used in
that setting.

The site you pointed to by the way is of reproductions of the tapestries (in
case other people were thinking they were the real thing.) I did find a few
images of the real tapesties  but I can't find them easily again.

http://gallery.tc.dk/paris2002_sourthoftheseine?page=4

The problem with reproductions is they often leave out or put in detail that
wasn't in the original.

http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/tapestries/index.html
Funnily enough Tracey Chevalier's site has the best images I was able to
find in a reasonable amount of time. The detail in the items being looked at
is seen at a nice size in the enlargements.

I now have a real appreciation of the lady in the tapestry depicting Taste.
I now feel the need to make her entire ensemble for a masquerade.....

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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At 13:31 07/08/2005, you wrote:
> > 1. What on earth is on her head?
>http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me095.jpg and
>http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me100.jpg I haven't seen anything
>like this headdress elsewhere, but it appears in four of the unicorn
>tapestries. Is this possibly a moorish influence? (the headdress in 'sense
>of touch' is almost Siamese/Balinese looking from the examples I have!
>http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me080.jpg )
>
>She's got lappets worn without a hood/hennin etc. I've done the hairstyle
>myself:
>http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/yellowflemish.htm
>
> >snip
>
>I chose to plait my hair as it is very long and would have hung down over my
>face like a pony tail if I had've done a simple wrapping on my hair;)
>
>My hair was crimped (plaits over night to give the hair body once brushed)
>loosely plaited (to make the plaits appear as large as possible) then
>crossed at the back (again to take up as much length as possible) tied at
>the end and then pinned to the top of my head.
>
>
>snip>
>
>The site you pointed to by the way is of reproductions of the tapestries (in
>case other people were thinking they were the real thing.) I did find a few
>images of the real tapesties  but I can't find them easily again.
>
>http://gallery.tc.dk/paris2002_sourthoftheseine?page=4
>
>The problem with reproductions is they often leave out or put in detail that
>wasn't in the original.
>
>http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/tapestries/index.html
>Funnily enough Tracey Chevalier's site has the best images I was able to
>find in a reasonable amount of time. The detail in the items being looked at
>is seen at a nice size in the enlargements.


The "maid" in the final tapestry "A Mon Seul Desire" shows the hair 
very clearly being wrapped around the head and twisted up into a 
tuft. You can see this by going to the Tracey Chevalier site as 
recommended by Michaela and clicking on the close up feature.

The Musee de Cluny used to sell postcards - I've not been for a few 
years, but they probably still do, and may sell posters too - I have 
been lazy and not bothered to check today. I spent a day in Paris at 
the Palais Galliera looking at an 18th century costume 
exhibition,  (I made some underthings for a mantua loaned by the 
Museum of London,) and never got as far as the Cluny!


Suzi  


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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: The Renaissance Tailor <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>,
        TheCostumersManifesto <TheCostumersManifesto@yahoo.com>,
        Reconstructing History <Patterns@reconstructinghistory.com>,
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Dear all,

I just wanted to let you know that a very kind person from one of these lists is going to be helping me out with my shipping quandary.

Thank-you, everyone, there are the nicest people on these lists. :-D

Joannah.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Aug  7 10:56:59 2005
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	<6.2.3.4.0.20050807133721.020350a0@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 15th Century ornamentation and other  questions.
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 16:56:17 +0200
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Hi Suzi,
That hairdo with the twisted up to a tuft thingy was made by the Akademy of 
Historical Hairstyles, i used to make costumes for. Got pictures of it 
somewhere.........

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 15th Century ornamentation and other questions.


> At 13:31 07/08/2005, you wrote:
>> > 1. What on earth is on her head?
>>http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me095.jpg and
>>http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me100.jpg I haven't seen anything
>>like this headdress elsewhere, but it appears in four of the unicorn
>>tapestries. Is this possibly a moorish influence? (the headdress in 'sense
>>of touch' is almost Siamese/Balinese looking from the examples I have!
>>http://www.tapestry-tapestry.com/photos/me080.jpg )
>>
>>She's got lappets worn without a hood/hennin etc. I've done the hairstyle
>>myself:
>>http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/yellowflemish.htm
>>
>> >snip
>>
>>I chose to plait my hair as it is very long and would have hung down over 
>>my
>>face like a pony tail if I had've done a simple wrapping on my hair;)
>>
>>My hair was crimped (plaits over night to give the hair body once brushed)
>>loosely plaited (to make the plaits appear as large as possible) then
>>crossed at the back (again to take up as much length as possible) tied at
>>the end and then pinned to the top of my head.
>>
>>
>>snip>
>>
>>The site you pointed to by the way is of reproductions of the tapestries 
>>(in
>>case other people were thinking they were the real thing.) I did find a 
>>few
>>images of the real tapesties  but I can't find them easily again.
>>
>>http://gallery.tc.dk/paris2002_sourthoftheseine?page=4
>>
>>The problem with reproductions is they often leave out or put in detail 
>>that
>>wasn't in the original.
>>
>>http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/tapestries/index.html
>>Funnily enough Tracey Chevalier's site has the best images I was able to
>>find in a reasonable amount of time. The detail in the items being looked 
>>at
>>is seen at a nice size in the enlargements.
>
>
> The "maid" in the final tapestry "A Mon Seul Desire" shows the hair very 
> clearly being wrapped around the head and twisted up into a tuft. You can 
> see this by going to the Tracey Chevalier site as recommended by Michaela 
> and clicking on the close up feature.
>
> The Musee de Cluny used to sell postcards - I've not been for a few years, 
> but they probably still do, and may sell posters too - I have been lazy 
> and not bothered to check today. I spent a day in Paris at the Palais 
> Galliera looking at an 18th century costume exhibition,  (I made some 
> underthings for a mantua loaned by the Museum of London,) and never got as 
> far as the Cluny!
>
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 


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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bloodstain
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>I am coming in late on this one.  Is the blood stain more than 24 days old? 
>For 24 hours or less, I use cold water and dove soap and scrub with an old 
>toothbrush.  Its always worked.

For recent blood stains, that works very well, especially if you add a nice 
long soak in body temperature water after saturating the fabric with soap.

The stain we were talking about was an old one, though :-)


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Subject: [h-cost] Quilling
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A while back when working on a dress I asked the list about "quilling" no
one seemed to be sure what it was. I later found out thanks to an ancient
seamstress. However I thought I'd share this example of quilling in a rug:

http://www.missmary.com/articles/01/victorian-crafts-braided-rugs.html

 
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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Plea for help with getting a parcel
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Well, I wouldn't mind.  I am constantly sending stuff to my niece in
Switzerland when she wins auctions or orders from US companies. One more
package won't matter. Contact me off list and I will give you my address,
etc.
Anne (who will be at Pennsic Aug. 11 thru 21 but husband will be here to
receive mail)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joannah Hansen
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 5:55 AM
To: TheCostumersManifesto; The Renaissance Tailor; Reconstructing History;
Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Plea for help with getting a parcel

Hello, to everyone on the lists,
Please forgive if you receive this message more than once - I've sent it to
a few lists.

My plea is this: I am interested in bidding for a couple of items on eBay,
but the seller doesn't ship/post outside of the US. ( I asked. ) However,
the seller is happy to send the parcel to someone in the US, to be forwarded
to me in Australia.

Would anyone be willing to do this for me? I will pay all further costs for
postage/shipping from the US to Australia, by whatever means is most
convenient for whoever does this favour for me ( if anyone does ).

I don't like to ask this, but my friend in the US, of whom I asked this
favour originally, hasn't replied, and I don't know anyone else in the US,
apart from all the people in these lists.

It's not a matter of life or death, just an 'it would be nice if I could do
this'.

Thank-you all for your patience.
Yours in hope?
Joannah.

Now back to topic ....... ;-)

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Aug  7 16:15:30 2005
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 16:13:05 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] on-line silk fabric
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    Had a computer crash this year and subsequently lost all my favourite 
websites. Ever since I've been looking for a particular on-line silk 
supplier for either noile or shot dupioni. All I can recall was the prices 
were ridiculously reasonable, especially at the quantities I was looking at 
purchasing. (30 yards +)

    I've been to Denver, Dharma, G&S, Thai and none of them seem to be the 
company where I'd found wonderful colours of noile for around $4.00/yd.

    Any ideas, oh great hoarders of fabric? :-)

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
historical sewing patterns; quality, hand-crafted cooperage; embroidery 
supplies, and more.
www.5rivers.org - info@5rivers.org
519-799-5577 

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quilling
Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2005 20:44:02 +0000
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Oh Mi Gosh!!!  I had no idea that's what I've been doing all these years.  I've been doing this kind of loop braiding with the satin, reversible ribbon (no wider than 1/4 inch) to make trim to do on elizabethan or tudor.

You see, there are those vaugue and obscure descriptions in the QEWU inventory, and equally fuzzy pictures that I puzzled about over the years.  I decided that one of the trims looked like one of the bits of braiding that we did in camp, where we'd braid the loops just like what's in the picture!   

Thank you for sharing.  
Elena 
-------------- Original message -------------- 

> A while back when working on a dress I asked the list about "quilling" no 
> one seemed to be sure what it was. I later found out thanks to an ancient 
> seamstress. However I thought I'd share this example of quilling in a rug: 
> 
> http://www.missmary.com/articles/01/victorian-crafts-braided-rugs.html 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Hey no problem. I wanted to show that I wasn't loosing it too badly even if
it was a year later. Miss Mary is a favorite site and I was amused to see
that little project.

 

-------Original Message-------

Oh Mi Gosh!!! I had no idea that's what I've been doing all these years. I
ve been doing this kind of loop braiding with the satin, reversible ribbon
(no wider than 1/4 inch) to make trim to do on elizabethan or tudor.

 

You see, there are those vaugue and obscure descriptions in the QEWU
inventory, and equally fuzzy pictures that I puzzled about over the years. I
decided that one of the trims looked like one of the bits of braiding that
we did in camp, where we'd braid the loops just like what's in the picture!

 

Thank you for sharing.

Elena
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Please let me know if you got my meassage. Having computer trouble
sometimes. ANne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joannah Hansen
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 5:55 AM
To: TheCostumersManifesto; The Renaissance Tailor; Reconstructing History;
Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Plea for help with getting a parcel

Hello, to everyone on the lists,
Please forgive if you receive this message more than once - I've sent it to
a few lists.

My plea is this: I am interested in bidding for a couple of items on eBay,
but the seller doesn't ship/post outside of the US. ( I asked. ) However,
the seller is happy to send the parcel to someone in the US, to be forwarded
to me in Australia.

Would anyone be willing to do this for me? I will pay all further costs for
postage/shipping from the US to Australia, by whatever means is most
convenient for whoever does this favour for me ( if anyone does ).

I don't like to ask this, but my friend in the US, of whom I asked this
favour originally, hasn't replied, and I don't know anyone else in the US,
apart from all the people in these lists.

It's not a matter of life or death, just an 'it would be nice if I could do
this'.

Thank-you all for your patience.
Yours in hope?
Joannah.

Now back to topic ....... ;-)


-- 
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Aug  7 19:02:12 2005
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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: [h-cost] Question about natural form victorian dress
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I have a question about this painting
http://www.mauritia.de/de/gruender/rosecaron.html

Is she wearing an underbust corset?
I am wondering because I like the decolletee effect.

I love the dress.
The shape of the bodice makes me think of the red dress in the movie van 
Helsing.

Greetings,
       Deredere

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:  blood stains linens
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"Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com> writes:
>
> I'm a believer in bleach, even on linen, but I understand that you
> don't want to damage some other threads?  So that's out.  Have you
> tried lying it out in the sun for a while?  You may not get the level
> of sun that we get here, but sun bleaching linen is a time honored
> process.

I believe that it needs to be wet when laid out in the sun--something
about the linen acting as a catalyst for the water to be turned into
hydrogen peroxide--but that could just be an old wives' tale.

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
12 is divisible by both the sum of its digits (making it a Niven number)
and the product of its digits.

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From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on-line silk fabric
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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<http://www.toomanycamels.com> has noile for 6.50 a yard, lots of
colors.  Their shipping was really high though.
alex

--- Five Rivers Chapmanry <lgsteph@wightman.ca> wrote:

>     Had a computer crash this year and subsequently lost all my
> favourite 
> websites. Ever since I've been looking for a particular on-line silk 
> supplier for either noile or shot dupioni. All I can recall was the
> prices 
> were ridiculously reasonable, especially at the quantities I was
> looking at 
> purchasing. (30 yards +)
> 
>     I've been to Denver, Dharma, G&S, Thai and none of them seem to
> be the 
> company where I'd found wonderful colours of noile for around
> $4.00/yd.
> 
>     Any ideas, oh great hoarders of fabric? :-)
> 
> Regards
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> historical sewing patterns; quality, hand-crafted cooperage;
> embroidery 
> supplies, and more.
> www.5rivers.org - info@5rivers.org
> 519-799-5577 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] on-line silk fabric
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Could this be the site you are thinking 
of? 
http://www.sewingcentral.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?page=index.html&cart_id=8461026_23608
Joan

At 01:13 PM 8/7/2005, you wrote:
>    Had a computer crash this year and subsequently lost all my 
> favourite websites. Ever since I've been looking for a particular 
> on-line silk supplier for either noile or shot dupioni. All I can 
> recall was the prices were ridiculously reasonable, especially at 
> the quantities I was looking at purchasing. (30 yards +)
>
>    I've been to Denver, Dharma, G&S, Thai and none of them seem to 
> be the company where I'd found wonderful colours of noile for around $4.00/yd.
>
>    Any ideas, oh great hoarders of fabric? :-)
>
>Regards
>Lorina
>Five Rivers Chapmanry
>historical sewing patterns; quality, hand-crafted cooperage; 
>embroidery supplies, and more.
>www.5rivers.org - info@5rivers.org
>519-799-5577

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Subject: [h-cost] Inauthentic 18C panniers
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I've just been reading about making inauthentic panniers for dolls at 
http://www.simplygracedesigns.com/Pamamom/HC.htm#anchor2 and wondered 
if this could be applied to adults costumes. What do you think - we 
could use netting/tulle to help it stick out?
Cheers, Aylwen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Bran vs sawdust
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In a message dated 8/5/2005 9:01:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kate.mcclure@dexmedia.com writes:

> >My experience making pincushions (ObCostume: surely these are a 
> >fashion accessory? <g>) has led me to prefer sifted sawdust over bran,
> 
> >for anything but the shortest-term use.
> 
> I've found that I much prefer the sand used by chinchilla owners for
> their pets to bath in. It can be found at larger pet stores, and has the
> advantage of keeping the pointy bits nice and sharp, not to mention that
> it never breaks down. One caveat - do NOT get it in your eyes! 
> 

Bran still makes better muffins.....
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I posted a post about seeing the Gilbert Stuart exhibit at the National 
Gallery of Art in DC a little while back. I thought it pertinent because of the 
exquisite and detailed rendering of transitional fashions at the turn of the 18th 
century. But I never saw it posted.....
I also mentioned a catalogue but couldn't remember if there was one. 
Well, I went back to see the Winslow Homer show [and the fantastic Van Dykes 
and El Grecos they have] and in the book store there is indeed a catalogue for 
the Gilbert Stuart show. I highly recommend it to those interested in 18th 
AND early 19th century fashions.


here's a tease....

you go from this: 

Catherine Brass Yates (Mrs. Richard Yates) 

and this:
 Catherine Yates Pollock (Mrs. George Pollock) 


to this:
 Sarah Homes Tappan (Mrs. Benjamin Tappan) 


and this:
 Ann Calvert Stuart Robinson (Mrs. William Robinson) 



and of course there's always this:

 The Skater (Portrait of William Grant) 
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Ooooops.....forgot to post the web addresses!

the earlier portraits:

 Catherine Brass Yates (Mrs. Richard Yates) 
http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pinfo?Object=566+0+none

 Catherine Yates Pollock (Mrs. George Pollock) 
http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pinfo?Object=1116+0+none

The later ones.... 
Sarah Homes Tappan (Mrs. Benjamin Tappan) 
http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pinfo?Object=52105+0+none

 Ann Calvert Stuart Robinson (Mrs. William Robinson)
http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pinfo?Object=1119+0+none

and this yummy one:

 The Skater (Portrait of William Grant) 
http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pinfo?Object=39456+0+none 

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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Plea for help with getting a parcel
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Hello, Anne,

I did see your message. Thank-you very much for being willing to help me, but another person had already said they would help. The question is moot now, as I didn't win the auction. :-(

Regards,
Joannah

--- "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com> wrote:

From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 15:07:23 -0400
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Plea for help with getting a parcel

Please let me know if you got my meassage. Having computer trouble
sometimes. ANne



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THis is MIa in CHarlotte, late as usual.

Personally I would try everything., except bleach on linnen.  I have had BAD bad experiences with material deteriorating when I used chlorine bleach.  It was long enough ago, that I can't remember what exactly the material was, and the situation I used it., but it was enough of a shock that I just don't do it on the reenactment clothing ANY MORE.

I use some of the stain products findable in the us.  Zout (not the more redily available Shout, it might be a product theat is only availble in the southern US) and Carbona Stain Devils for spot cleaning spot specific types of stains.  Carbona, while expensive, has different specific removers for ball point pen, rust, coffee/tea,blood and other strange things.  Nothing I've found yet really works in black leather dressing when it bleads from a military neck stock to a while linnen shirtthough... and red North Carolina Mud.  

When you spend hours looking for a linen that looks like the right thing, and then hours hand stiching it (or well, at least the visible places,)  I love to make Men's 18th century shirts, but not enough to be doing it all the time

Mia in Charlotte. NC

 

 


		
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On Mon, 8 Aug 2005, Mia Dappert wrote:

> Personally I would try everything., except bleach on linnen.  I have
> had BAD bad experiences with material deteriorating when I used
> chlorine bleach.  It was long enough ago, that I can't remember what
> exactly the material was, and the situation I used it., but it was
> enough of a shock that I just don't do it on the reenactment clothing
> ANY MORE.

Bleach will dissolve wool and silk and so is calamitous to use on those
fibers. It should be pretty safe on linen.

> Nothing I've found yet really works in black leather dressing when it
> bleads from a military neck stock to a while linnen shirtthough... and
> red North Carolina Mud.

No guarantees, but you might try Goop. That stuff gets out printer's ink.
It comes in tubs to be used for handwashing as well as laundry.

The only things I've dealt with that don't seem to respond to it are the
yellowish residue of tomato stains on my printed cotton knit tops, and
some longstanding ?grease stains that just won't let go of my t-shirts no
matter what I dump on them. :-( But that's not historic costume by any
stretch of the imagination.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] bleach (was: linnen stains)
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I might have missed recent mention of this, but this conversation reminds me 
of the 'new' bleach that clorox has been advertising lately.  It's supposed 
to get things whiter, and I was wondering if anyone has tried it yet and 
seen any difference.  I do bleach linen reasonably often (haven't had any 
problems doing it, though I'd say that in the long term it does 
sliiiiiiightly weaken the fiber--but it's more like the equivalent of a 
dozen extra washings, rather than something that'll make the linen go kaput 
years sooner than it would otherwise). One of the problems I have with 
bleach is yellowing, which might have something to do with the water; I'm 
sort of hoping that the new version is meant to eliminate that sort of 
problem.  Sorry if this was already discussed--I only read about half the 
messages in this discussion.

-E House
(PS--my bleach tragedy?  NEVER bleach a 100 year old cotton petticoat, no 
matter how strong the fabric seems to be!) 

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    Thanks for the leads to Sewing Central and Too Many Camels. Neither were 
the supplier I remembered, but both good leads. I've bookmarked them for 
when I finally order the fabric for our master suite (7 windows, duvet 
cover, bed hangings), which is under renovation at the moment. I think I may 
have to make a matching robe and gown so I will go with the decor. ;-)

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
historical sewing patterns; quality, hand-crafted cooperage; embroidery 
supplies, and more.
www.5rivers.org - info@5rivers.org
519-799-5577 

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about natural form victorian dress
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Her corsets come up to corsetted nipple level, as was
usual.  
The decolletée looks much deeper than it is because of
the V-neckline plunging from her square shoulders just
about to her corsets.

At least, that's what I see.

Ann in CT

--- Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:

> I have a question about this painting
> http://www.mauritia.de/de/gruender/rosecaron.html
> 
> Is she wearing an underbust corset?
> I am wondering because I like the decolletee effect.
> 
> I love the dress.
> 
>        Deredere


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Wow,
 
Thank you all for the great responses!
 
> That's her hair sticking out like a tassle.
 
The "hair style" is very clear now - and a little odd. (but I might add, the recent trend of hairstyles that are in a similar vein - i.e. a twist in a large clip with the ends fanned up instead of tucked under - aren't so new after all are they?)
 
>The "maid" in the final tapestry "A Mon Seul Desire" shows the hair 
>very clearly being wrapped around the head and twisted up into a 
>tuft. You can see this by going to the Tracey Chevalier site as 
>recommended by Michaela and clicking on the close up feature.
 
Thank you for all the links, and I agree that the images on the Tracey Chevalier site are the clearest. The reproduction site was one of the first ones I came across that actually gave bigger images.
 
>Yes, they're more fantasy than anything else, but for a wedding dress who
>cares? They would all be lovely. I am not familiar with the belgian versions
>seen on this site, but there are fine books available of the French
>tapestries.
 
I am sort of feeling the same way, but I am torn between wanting something I can use later for SCA events, and having something as a keepsake. However - the practical side of me is saying why spend all that time, energy and money on something I am only going to wear once? Why not wear it again?
 
Annette M

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 16:59:20 -0400
From: Gail & Scott Finke 
Subject: [h-cost] Re: unicorn tapestries


Yes, they're more fantasy than anything else, but for a wedding dress who
cares? They would all be lovely. I am not familiar with the belgian versions
seen on this site, but there are fine books available of the French
tapestries.

That's her hair sticking out like a tassle. If I were making this (and
there's one version on the French tapestries that I think is charming,
bizarre though it is), I would use false hair the same color as my own. To
me, it looks like false hair wrapped with ribbons and sort of draped around
the had or headcovering or whatever you call it. There doesn't seem to be
any attempt to make it look like her real hair -- there's no where for it to
have come from!

I made a sort of hat inspired by a different fantasy medieval artwork. I
don't remember the original (gasp!) but it looked just like a long, long
hank of fake hair wrapped with ribbons and tied around the head like a
ribbon, with the two long ends making a big tail. So that's what I did. It
looked just like the original, but I used really cheap hair and it drove me
nuts. Little pieces kept getting out, they were like spun plastic and stuck
everywhere. So if you do use hair, spend a few bucks on it!

Gail Finke



------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2005 17:01:33 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: unicorn tapestries


In particular, the Cluny Museum sells a catalog about them, with large
fold-out color images and lots of close-ups. It comes in an English
version, too. My copy is La Dame a la Licorne, by Alain
Erlande-Brandenburg (Paris: Editions de la Reunion des Musees Nationaux,
1979), ISBN 2711801187. I have used mine so much that the binding is in
pieces.

> That's her hair sticking out like a tassle.....

I've made it work both on me (with my own hair) and on a friend (with a
long blonde wig). Separate the hair into two halves down the back. Cross
the two tails, and wrap each with ribbon while pulling it around and up
the opposite sides of the head. Where they meet, use the ribbon to tie
them together and then wrap them into a single tassel. If you do this over
a draped velvet headdress such as is shown, you can make it sit so that it
sticks up and the loose ends of hair at the top spout like a fountain --
really bizarre but just like the picture.

This was part of the show-and-tell for a dress and textiles session that
covered pavilions and the Unicorn Tapestry costumes, at the Medieval
Congress in 1990.......

--Robin

------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 00:31:46 +1200
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 15th Century ornamentation and other
questions.


> 1. What on earth is on her head?

She's got lappets worn without a hood/hennin etc. I've done the 
hairstyle myself:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/yellowflemish.htm

I found ythe style in a few other examples of allegory (one a 
supposedly
English illumination, one German woodcut and another set of 
tapestries.)....

I chose to plait my hair as it is very long and would have hung down 
over my
face like a pony tail if I had've done a simple wrapping on my hair;)

My hair was crimped (plaits over night to give the hair body once 
brushed)
loosely plaited (to make the plaits appear as large as possible) then
crossed at the back (again to take up as much length as possible) tied 
at
the end and then pinned to the top of my head.


> 3. Can these be considered a reliable source or are they more the 
fanciful
creations of the tapestries' designer?

I would tend to say the designers used what they saw around them in 
fanciful
ways.

Take the buttons on the sides of the skirt of the maid in "smell." I 
haven't
seen buttons at the sides anywhere else and when I saw buttons in a few
other tapestries I began to think they were placed there purely by
imagination. But i have since seen a portrait of a donor with a gown 
that
buttons up the front from the 1490s.

So while I wouldn't dismiss all elements as pure fancy, I would hunt to 
see
if I had seen them used in depicting real people, and how they were 
used in
that setting.

I did find a few
images of the real tapesties  but I can't find them easily again.

http://gallery.tc.dk/paris2002_sourthoftheseine?page=4

The problem with reproductions is they often leave out or put in detail 
that
wasn't in the original.

http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/tapestries/index.html
Funnily enough Tracey Chevalier's site has the best images I was able 
to
find in a reasonable amount of time. The detail in the items being 
looked at
is seen at a nice size in the enlargements.

I now have a real appreciation of the lady in the tapestry depicting 
Taste.
I now feel the need to make her entire ensemble for a masquerade.....

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com





		
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Plea for help with getting a parcel
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Sorry. Better luck next time. Been there too.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joannah Hansen
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 12:14 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Plea for help with getting a parcel

Hello, Anne,

I did see your message. Thank-you very much for being willing to help me,
but another person had already said they would help. The question is moot
now, as I didn't win the auction. :-(

Regards,
Joannah


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 21:27:52 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on-line silk fabric
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>     Had a computer crash this year and subsequently lost all my 
> favourite 
> websites. Ever since I've been looking for a particular on-line silk  
> supplier for either noile or shot dupioni. All I can recall was the 
> prices 
> were ridiculously reasonable, especially at the quantities I was 
> looking at 
> purchasing. (30 yards +)

I got a set of swatches from Bonnie's Bailiwick earlier this year, and it
sounds a lot like what you're looking for, but when I try to access the
website ( http://www.bonniesbailiwick.com/ ) I get a "Unable To Fetch
Domain" error message.

Leah
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <margospatterns@yahoogroups.com>;
<CVCostumers@yahoogroups.com>; <GBACGCostumers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 12:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] French Hood images revised


> Hi all again,
>
> I've injured my shoulder & back doing many scans and enlargements so I had
> to take a couple of days away from the computer. But I've been a busy bee
> updating the French hood image page for all the images people have sent me
> links of. I thank them all (and they are noted on the pages). They now
> range in time from pre 1500s to the 1570s (so far).
>
> With the many images coming in, and more still to scan, I've moved
> everything to its own research section. Old pages will refresh to the new
> pages. But here is the new url.
> Renaissance Research: French Hood Images
> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood
>
> Please, keep those images coming. I have learned so much from seeing these
> various images, it's really opened my eyes. I hope this helps others with
> their research as well.
>
> Kimiko

I notice you haven't got the photos from QEWU of that effigy that shows the
veil of the French hood flipped up, showing some sort of bag like headwear
underneath. (or perhaps that's one of the ones waiting to be scanned?)
Elizabeth

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Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 06:59:10 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly ot costume fun
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>So today I searched trough my fabric leftovers and made a cute costume for 
>her.

That is entirely too cute.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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I had no idea it was used with anything but ribbon.  I've been using this braid as a hat band.  Looks great.  

Julie
----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> Oh Mi Gosh!!!  I had no idea that's what I've been doing all these years.  I've been doing this kind of loop braiding with the satin, reversible ribbon (no wider than 1/4 inch) to make trim to do on elizabethan or tudor.
> 
> You see, there are those vaugue and obscure descriptions in the QEWU inventory, and equally fuzzy pictures that I puzzled about over the years.  I decided that one of the trims looked like one of the bits of braiding that we did in camp, where we'd braid the loops just like what's in the picture!   
> 
> Thank you for sharing.  
> Elena 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> 
> > A while back when working on a dress I asked the list about "quilling" no 
> > one seemed to be sure what it was. I later found out thanks to an ancient 
> > seamstress. However I thought I'd share this example of quilling in a rug: 
> > 
> > http://www.missmary.com/articles/01/victorian-crafts-braided-rugs.html 
> > 

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I have always had a fasination for German Ren. clothing, but one detail
keeps perplexing me:
Would anyone have any idea of how they made these hats/headdress?

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/cranach/lucas_e/6/2cuspin.jpg

http://www.wga.hu/art/h/holbein/hans_y/1518/3meyer2.jpg

http://www.museothyssen.org/images/obras/museo-thyssen-399-157-Grande.jpg

http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/images/ep/images/ep12.115.L.jpg

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/s/strigel/bernhard/freyberg.jpg

I have a couple of vague theories, but was wondering if anyone here had
figured out something that works, no sense re-inventing the wheel. :-)

Sheridan


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but you can stay immature indefinitely.

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There is a German Renn group on Yahoo.  They've discussed it there and you could check the files.  I forget what the headdress is called.  Once they tell you the specific name you should be able to find it.
Julie

----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> I have always had a fasination for German Ren. clothing, but one detail
> keeps perplexing me:
> Would anyone have any idea of how they made these hats/headdress?
> 
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/cranach/lucas_e/6/2cuspin.jpg
> 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
Could it be that the hair is sat in this way as you see in an italian 
renaissance picture?

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/15thdiary/images/back.jpg

And the hat/ headdress is stretched out over this hairshape?


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
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I remember reading about that hat, specific to parts of the German
states, a couple of years ago, and I can't remember the name of it
either, nor do I have the name of the reference to hand. I was doing
some rushed searching on German styles and saw the info. The reference
said that the hat had a woven base to it made of reeds or straws. If
you look at the first picture, you can see through the holes of the
white fabric that there is actually something woven underneath it.

I wish I could offer something more solid for reference than this
memory. All I can remember is that I thought, "of course, how else
would they get that flowing shape if it wasn't woven?"

LynnD

On 8/9/05, Shane & Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> I have always had a fasination for German Ren. clothing, but one detail
> keeps perplexing me:
> Would anyone have any idea of how they made these hats/headdress?
> 
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/cranach/lucas_e/6/2cuspin.jpg
> 
> http://www.wga.hu/art/h/holbein/hans_y/1518/3meyer2.jpg
> 
> http://www.museothyssen.org/images/obras/museo-thyssen-399-157-Grande.jpg
> 
> http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/images/ep/images/ep12.115.L.jpg
> 
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/s/strigel/bernhard/freyberg.jpg
> 
> I have a couple of vague theories, but was wondering if anyone here had
> figured out something that works, no sense re-inventing the wheel. :-)
> 
> Sheridan
> 
> 
> *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
> You are only young once,
> but you can stay immature indefinitely.
> 
> Ogden Nash
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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I have always had a fasination for German Ren. clothing, but one detail
keeps perplexing me:
Would anyone have any idea of how they made these hats/headdress?

*snip*

Oddly enough, the German movie, Hexen
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0068925/ shows an actress wearing a similar
headdress, and gives back views of it. I don't know how historically
accurate the thing is, but it looks like a logical solution. If you have
Netflix, you can get this on DVD. It's really an interesting look at
early cinema, not to mention the witch hysteria in Europe.

Kate McClure

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] German Headdress
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> Hi,
> Could it be that the hair is sat in this way as you see in an italian
> renaissance picture?
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/15thdiary/images/back.jpg
>
> And the hat/ headdress is stretched out over this hairshape?
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk

That's what I was thinking, some of the simpler and smaller versions of this
headdress look that way, but the larger ones seem to have a bit more
structure to them. I prefer the lower profile ones, but don't have enough
hair to pull it off, perhaps a false braid would work? Or a 'donut' of fake
hair? I just wonder how the scarf is pinned/tied in the back...

Sheridan


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http://www.curiousfrau.com/Diaries/Steuchlein_Wulsthaube_first.htm

- Irmgart

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> when I try to access the
> website ( http://www.bonniesbailiwick.com/ ) I get a "Unable To Fetch
> Domain" error message.

    Yep, that's what I get as well. :-(

Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
historical sewing patterns; quality, hand-crafted cooperage; embroidery 
supplies, and more.
www.5rivers.org - info@5rivers.org
519-799-5577 

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VERY, cool, Irmgart! It looks just like the smaller ones in the
portraits. Did you say it was hollow? If so, it would be fairly light.
Did you have any references to say that this is how it was done or did
you do what seemed right? I love the way it looks on you!

LynnD

On 8/9/05, Irmgart <irmgart@gmail.com> wrote:
> http://www.curiousfrau.com/Diaries/Steuchlein_Wulsthaube_first.htm
> 
> - Irmgart
> 
> _______________________________________________
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 The style of headdress that you are interested in has been discussed extensively on the German Renaissance Costume list at yahoo groups and Kass McCann at Reconstructing History has come out with instructions in her new German Accessories pattern.  Hope you have fun figuring it all out.

                                                    Anna von Argenthal
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Aug  9 17:18:12 2005
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Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 14:16:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] German Headdress
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Why on earth would anyone want to make one of those.  They are most unbecoming and look very uncomfortable.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote:

From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 13:56:45 -0400
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] German Headdress

I have always had a fasination for German Ren. clothing, but one detail
keeps perplexing me:
Would anyone have any idea of how they made these hats/headdress?

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/cranach/lucas_e/6/2cuspin.jpg

http://www.wga.hu/art/h/holbein/hans_y/1518/3meyer2.jpg

http://www.museothyssen.org/images/obras/museo-thyssen-399-157-Grande.jpg

http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/images/ep/images/ep12.115.L.jpg

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/s/strigel/bernhard/freyberg.jpg

I have a couple of vague theories, but was wondering if anyone here had
figured out something that works, no sense re-inventing the wheel. :-)

Sheridan


*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
You are only young once,
but you can stay immature indefinitely.

Ogden Nash


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Aug  9 17:18:21 2005
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] German Headdress
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Why on earth would anyone want to make one of those.  They are most unbecoming and look very uncomfortable.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote:

From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 13:56:45 -0400
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] German Headdress

I have always had a fasination for German Ren. clothing, but one detail
keeps perplexing me:
Would anyone have any idea of how they made these hats/headdress?

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/cranach/lucas_e/6/2cuspin.jpg

http://www.wga.hu/art/h/holbein/hans_y/1518/3meyer2.jpg

http://www.museothyssen.org/images/obras/museo-thyssen-399-157-Grande.jpg

http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/images/ep/images/ep12.115.L.jpg

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/s/strigel/bernhard/freyberg.jpg

I have a couple of vague theories, but was wondering if anyone here had
figured out something that works, no sense re-inventing the wheel. :-)

Sheridan


*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
You are only young once,
but you can stay immature indefinitely.

Ogden Nash


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Aug  9 21:57:34 2005
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] German Headdress
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Lots of reasons.  The three I come up with right away are:
1.  Not everyone (now or in the 16th century) necessarily shares your
taste in clothing and headgear.
2.  Curiosity--figuring out how to engineer something so unusual, etc.
3.  Authenticity.  When I go to all the effort to make authentic
historical clothing, I would certainly go the extra step and create
appropriate headwear.
--Sue


Lalah wrote:

> Why on earth would anyone want to make one of those.  They are most
> unbecoming and look very uncomfortable.
> 
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

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Message-ID: <008501c59d57$350087f0$0301010a@michaela>
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> > Why on earth would anyone want to make one of those.  They are most
> > unbecoming and look very uncomfortable.

> Lots of reasons.  The three I come up with right away are:
> 1.  Not everyone (now or in the 16th century) necessarily shares your
> taste in clothing and headgear.
> 2.  Curiosity--figuring out how to engineer something so unusual, etc.
> 3.  Authenticity.  When I go to all the effort to make authentic
> historical clothing, I would certainly go the extra step and create
> appropriate headwear.

Thank you Sue for your very polite and succinct answer;)

I happen to find mine very comfortable as well:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/hats.htm (I have a pattern and interior
photos to share of each hat a few typos to clear... it's not quite ready to
go public but what the heck;) )

I also do not think that plaits came into it, except maybe at the evry start
of the evolution of the Wulsthaube (wulst referring to the crescent shaped
piece.) This is especially when true of the enormous "mushroom" shaped
headdresses seen in some paintings. The sheer weight of all that hair (which
the majority of Northern European women cannot achieve anyway, just think
about how thick and long it would be*) would cause massive strain on the
body;)

And with extant wulsts from an earlier time (not female) I think we can
safely say there was a lot of fakery going on.

In the early-mid 1400s there are illuminations showing the start of the side
heavy plaited hairstyle which doesn't really change much by the start of the
1500s. I think these are mimicked in the gold hauben seen in several
paintings. The shape tends to be bottom and side heavy rather than top heavy
like the wulsthauben.
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1520.htm
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/c/cranach/lucas_e/7/04prince.html

See the girl on the left? That's the shape of plaits commonly seen. You can
see how it influenced the shape of the haarhauben of the other two girls. Of
course they may well have those plaits underneath as well, accounting for
the shape.

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1510.htm
http://www.museothyssen.org/museovirtual/fichas/obraampliada.asp?codigo=550
Those plaits again show the side heavyshape while wulsthauben fromt he same
decade are very differently shaped:
http://www.museothyssen.org/museovirtual/fichas/obraampliada.asp?codigo=772
This is the one I based my one on. Though I haven't yet found a nice fabric
to make a veil to wear over it.


regards,
michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] German Headdress
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 23:39:55 -0400
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Ditto!

Besides, a well fitted hat is always comfortable, otherwise there would be
no point in wearing it. The trick is to make it that way. :-)

Sheridan

> Lots of reasons.  The three I come up with right away are:
> 1.  Not everyone (now or in the 16th century) necessarily shares your
> taste in clothing and headgear.
> 2.  Curiosity--figuring out how to engineer something so unusual, etc.
> 3.  Authenticity.  When I go to all the effort to make authentic
> historical clothing, I would certainly go the extra step and create
> appropriate headwear.
> --Sue
>
>
> Lalah wrote:
>
> > Why on earth would anyone want to make one of those.  They are most
> > unbecoming and look very uncomfortable.
> >
> > Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] German Headdress
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Lalah wrote:

>Why on earth would anyone want to make one of those.  They are most unbecoming and look very uncomfortable.
>  
>

I must disagree.  I've seen them worn and they are no less flattering 
than many other hat styles.  And hats that fit and sit well on the head 
are not uncomfortable.

Besides that, if you're interested in making German costume from that 
period to a reasonable level of authenticity, you need an appropriate hat.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 

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Hello,
 
I found this definition - Osnaburg: A plainly woven cotton fabric with small flecks of cotton stalks remaining within the weave. Its appearance is similar to a coarse muslin.
 
Sounds like flour sacking material to me.
 
 
I found some gorgeous peacock blue silk - with a shimmer that changes color from the greenish to blueish peacock range depending on the angle of the light. I thought it would make a beautiful skirt lining or something? Would something like this be too OOP? (if it is, I think I'll add it to my collection anyway, but it would be nice to have an excuse)
 
Annette M
(someday I hope I can contribute as much as I get from here)
 




		
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Ooo! Thanks, just the kind of thing I was looking for. :-)

Sheridan 




> http://www.curiousfrau.com/Diaries/Steuchlein_Wulsthaube_first.htm
> 
> - Irmgart


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> *snip*
>
> Oddly enough, the German movie, Hexen
> http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0068925/ shows an actress wearing a similar
> headdress, and gives back views of it. I don't know how historically
> accurate the thing is, but it looks like a logical solution. If you have
> Netflix, you can get this on DVD. It's really an interesting look at
> early cinema, not to mention the witch hysteria in Europe.
>
> Kate McClure

One of these hats also makes an appearance in 'Ever After' as worn by
Angelica Houston.

Sheridan


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Hi, Annette! Dunno about the Osnaburg (only flour sacking I'm familiar 
with is the printed cotton stuff reused for dresses and quilts and 
such), but the peacock silk sounds absolutely lovely. It would be 
perfectly appropriate for some types of historical clothing, and not so 
appropriate for others--the weave structure of the fabric, the weight of 
it, the color, all could have an effect on suitability for a given 
garment.  So, the OOP-ness of it would depend quite strongly on what 
time period (and culture) you're thinking of.  So if you give us a few 
more details (e.g., "I want to make a 25th Century Whatzit as worn 
during High Court Functions in the Barony of Mumbledon, would that 
work?"), we can probably give you better advice.
Personally, of course, it sounds like a glorious addition to anyone's 
stash. ;o)  Mine included, if you want to get rid of it!
--Sue in Montana, trying to stay cool.....

Kahlara wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> I found this definition - Osnaburg: A plainly woven cotton fabric
> with small flecks of cotton stalks remaining within the weave. Its
> appearance is similar to a coarse muslin.
> 
> Sounds like flour sacking material to me.
> 
> 
> I found some gorgeous peacock blue silk - with a shimmer that changes
> color from the greenish to blueish peacock range depending on the
> angle of the light. I thought it would make a beautiful skirt lining
> or something? Would something like this be too OOP? (if it is, I
> think I'll add it to my collection anyway, but it would be nice to
> have an excuse)
> 
> Annette M (someday I hope I can contribute as much as I get from
> here)

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] my favorite German Headdress
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>http://www.museothyssen.org/museovirtual/fichas/obraampliada.asp?codigo=772
>This is the one I based my one on. Though I haven't yet found a nice fabric
>to make a veil to wear over it.

My favorite is this one:

http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOneZoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&viewMode=1&item=71.34

I like all the needlework on the 'hat' and the front of the 'shirt'.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>Why on earth would anyone want to make one of those.  They are most 
>unbecoming and look very uncomfortable.

Because the really nice-looking ones, not pictured in the examples 
provided, are not bad looking at all - kind-of halo shaped things that 
frame the face:

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1520scologne.htm

http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/CollectionPublisher.woa/wa/work?workNumber=NG291

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/m/manuel/j_paris.html

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1500ynurenbergdurer.htm

http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach35.html

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Osnaburg (& silk question)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 02:40:51 -0500
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I have worked with Osnaburg and it isn't flour sack material. The weave is
not tight enough.
Silk, sounds beautiful. Remember that it is a warming fabric so you might
not want to line any summer costumes with it if you are in a warm humid
climate.
It sounds like you have what is referred to as shot(sp?) fabric, which can
be found in the mid 1500s (I think earlier but not sure) in certain areas up
through the ages.
What period are you thinking of?

De

-----Original Message-----
Hello,
I found this definition - Osnaburg: A plainly woven cotton fabric with small
flecks of cotton stalks remaining within the weave. Its appearance is
similar to a coarse muslin.
Sounds like flour sacking material to me.

I found some gorgeous peacock blue silk - with a shimmer that changes color
from the greenish to blueish peacock range depending on the angle of the
light. I thought it would make a beautiful skirt lining or something? Would
something like this be too OOP? (if it is, I think I'll add it to my
collection anyway, but it would be nice to have an excuse)

Annette M
(someday I hope I can contribute as much as I get from here)


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Osnaburg (& silk question)
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At 09:01 PM 8/9/2005, you wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I found this definition - Osnaburg: A plainly woven cotton fabric 
>with small flecks of cotton stalks remaining within the weave. Its 
>appearance is similar to a coarse muslin.
>
>Sounds like flour sacking material to me.
>
>
>I found some gorgeous peacock blue silk - with a shimmer that 
>changes color from the greenish to blueish peacock range depending 
>on the angle of the light. I thought it would make a beautiful skirt 
>lining or something? Would something like this be too OOP? (if it 
>is, I think I'll add it to my collection anyway, but it would be 
>nice to have an excuse)
>
>Annette M
>(someday I hope I can contribute as much as I get from here)
>

It sounds like changeable silk to me, which has been around a long 
time (definitely during the 16th century, and probably much 
earlier).  Look at the warp and weft threads; they are probably 
different colors (from your description it sounds like they may be 
blue and green). It would make a lovely dress if it's the right weight.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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	<008501c59d57$350087f0$0301010a@michaela>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] German Headdress
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<big snip>

>
http://www.museothyssen.org/museovirtual/fichas/obraampliada.asp?codigo=772
> This is the one I based my one on. Though I haven't yet found a nice
fabric
> to make a veil to wear over it.
>
>
> regards,
> michaela
> http://costumes.glittersweet.com

If you can get yourself to an Indian fabric store, the silk they use for
Dupattas is about as close to the gauze you see in these paintings as you
can modernly get. I have also seen silk with 'gold' very similar to  some of
the paintings you have on your site, and I had planned to use something like
that for  one of the more elaborate hats in future.

Thanks for the info!

Sheridan


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Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 22:39:51 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: German Headdress
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Hmmm....I don't remember that as a German headdress, but rather, as an 
Italian one (ISTR that Ms. Huston's gowns were Italianate, as were those 
of her two daughters).  There are a number of early 16th?/late 15th c. 
portraits with women wearing a crescent-shaped headpiece.
I wonder, though, if there's any connection between these Italian ones, 
the German/Swiss styles, and the crescent rolls that show on some French 
hoods.  It'd be interesting to trace the connections (if any).
--Sue, endlessly musing about odd things when she really should be going 
to bed! ;o)

Shane & Sheridan wrote:

>>*snip*
>>
>>Oddly enough, the German movie, Hexen
>>http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0068925/ shows an actress wearing a similar
>>headdress, and gives back views of it. I don't know how historically
>>accurate the thing is, but it looks like a logical solution. If you have
>>Netflix, you can get this on DVD. It's really an interesting look at
>>early cinema, not to mention the witch hysteria in Europe.
>>
>>Kate McClure
> 
> 
> One of these hats also makes an appearance in 'Ever After' as worn by
> Angelica Houston.
> 
> Sheridan


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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress
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OK, consider me properly chastized!  I can't imagine wearing something that looks like it pulls your head back as being comfortable, but to each his own.  I didn't mean to start a war, just made a comment.  Sorry

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 23:27:05 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress


>Why on earth would anyone want to make one of those.  They are most 
>unbecoming and look very uncomfortable.

Because the really nice-looking ones, not pictured in the examples 
provided, are not bad looking at all - kind-of halo shaped things that 
frame the face:

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1520scologne.htm

http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/CollectionPublisher.woa/wa/work?workNumber=NG291

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/m/manuel/j_paris.html

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1500ynurenbergdurer.htm

http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach35.html

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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OK, consider me properly chastized!  I can't imagine wearing something that looks like it pulls your head back as being comfortable, but to each his own.  I didn't mean to start a war, just made a comment.  Sorry

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 23:27:05 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress


>Why on earth would anyone want to make one of those.  They are most 
>unbecoming and look very uncomfortable.

Because the really nice-looking ones, not pictured in the examples 
provided, are not bad looking at all - kind-of halo shaped things that 
frame the face:

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1520scologne.htm

http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/CollectionPublisher.woa/wa/work?workNumber=NG291

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/m/manuel/j_paris.html

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1500ynurenbergdurer.htm

http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach35.html

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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OK, consider me properly chastized!  I can't imagine wearing something that looks like it pulls your head back as being comfortable, but to each his own.  I didn't mean to start a war, just made a comment.  Sorry

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 23:27:05 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress


>Why on earth would anyone want to make one of those.  They are most 
>unbecoming and look very uncomfortable.

Because the really nice-looking ones, not pictured in the examples 
provided, are not bad looking at all - kind-of halo shaped things that 
frame the face:

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1520scologne.htm

http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/CollectionPublisher.woa/wa/work?workNumber=NG291

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/m/manuel/j_paris.html

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1500ynurenbergdurer.htm

http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach35.html

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Aug 10 07:43:01 2005
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress
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OK, consider me properly chastized!  I can't imagine wearing something that looks like it pulls your head back as being comfortable, but to each his own.  I didn't mean to start a war, just made a comment.  Sorry

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 23:27:05 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress


>Why on earth would anyone want to make one of those.  They are most 
>unbecoming and look very uncomfortable.

Because the really nice-looking ones, not pictured in the examples 
provided, are not bad looking at all - kind-of halo shaped things that 
frame the face:

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1520scologne.htm

http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/CollectionPublisher.woa/wa/work?workNumber=NG291

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/m/manuel/j_paris.html

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1500ynurenbergdurer.htm

http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach35.html

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Aug 10 09:25:50 2005
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress
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Status: RO

Oh, good grief, that's hardly a "war."  Just several people answering
your question in such ways that showed that we didn't agree with you. 
If you don't want to wear one or make one, then don't.  But obviously, 
some of us would, for the reasons we stated as well as others.  My 
personal and 21st century (American) aesthetics are distinctly non-16th 
c. German, but that doesn't mean it isn't worth exploring something I 
don't immediately understand.  Heck, that's probably *the* major reason 
I've played with and learned about historical costuming for the last 2 
decades....
--Sue, curious about it all, even if she'll never get to wear or make 
most of it...

Lalah wrote (several times):

> OK, consider me properly chastized!  I can't imagine wearing
> something that looks like it pulls your head back as being
> comfortable, but to each his own.  I didn't mean to start a war, just
> made a comment.  Sorry

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Aug 10 09:50:32 2005
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 16th Century German patterns
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Status: RO

    Thought some of you might like to know of the new Reconstructing 
History, 16th Century German patterns we're now carrying on our website:
Kampfrau Gown

Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for 
16th century German commonwoman's gown with plain or slashed sleeves and 
gathered or pleated skirts. Fits busts 30½"-48" and waists 23"-41". All 
Sizes in one envelope. Historical notes and embellishment suggestions 
included. Suggested Fabrics:
        light weight to coat weight wool
        heavy linen or canvas for interlining
        light linen for lining

Yardage Requirements:
Gown:          6 yds 45" or 4½ yds 60" wide
Interlining:   2 yds 45" or 1 yds 60" wide
    (bodice & sleeves only)
Lining:         ½ yd 45" or 60" wide
    (bodice only) Notions:  thread, hooks & eyes or cord and closed rings 
(for front closure), two-inch and three-inch wide strips of contrasting wool 
for guards, as many as desired

Wams and Hosen

Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for 
men's early 16th century Wams (doublet) and Hosen (pants) as worn by 
Landsknechten. Pattern includes Open Wams with Brustfleck, Closed Wams, and 
Hosen with straight or Italianate slanted back seams. Detailed instructions. 
Embellishment suggestions included. Historical notes.  Fits chests 34"-54" 
and waists 28"-50".   All Sizes in one envelope.

Suggested Fabrics:
Wams:  wool twill or heavy silk
Hosen:  wool twill (gabardine or wool flannel) DO NOT use wool jersey for 
Hosen
        (optional for closed Wams)
        heavy linen or canvas for interlining
        (optional for either Wams)
        light linen for lining
Brustfleck:        wool or silk brocade
        (optional lining)        silk or fur

Yardage Requirements:
Hosen:          2 yds 60" wide
Open Wams:   5 yds 60" wide
Closed Wams:         3 yds 60" wide
Notions:  thread, cord for points, (optional) buckram interfacing, 
(optional) twill tape or linen narrowware for waistband interfacing

Waffenrock or Captain's Gown

Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for 
men's early 16th century German Waffenrok or Arming Gown as worn by 
Landsknecht officers. Pattern includes arming gown with full sleeves and a 
variety of skirt pleating techniques. Fits chests 34"-54". All Sizes in one 
envelope.   Embellishment suggestions included.

Suggested Fabrics:
Velvet, silk brocade, heavy silk or fine wool
(optional) Lining: 3-5oz linen or light silk
(optional) Interlining: heavy linen or buckram

Yardage Requirements:

Outer fabric (napped)              6 yds 60" wide
Outer fabric (w/o nap)          4½ yds 60" wide
(optional) Full Lining            4½ yds 60" wide
(optional) Partial Lining           2 yds 60" wide
(optional) Body Interlining        1 yd 36" wide

Guards: Two-inch and three-inch wide strips of wool or silk brocade in a 
contrasting colour, as many as desired. Notions:  thread, wool or silk 
brocade 2-3" strips for guards, cord for lacing, (optional) buckram or heavy 
linen interlining

German Accessories

For both men and women: Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions 
and historical notes for early 16th accessories from the Holy Roman Empire 
including Tellerbarett (platter hat) and Schlappe (starfish hat) for men and 
women, men's coif and arming cap, linen partlet and apron, Goller (fur-lined 
capelet), Ledergoller (men's leather jerkin), high-neck and low-scoop shirts 
and shifts for men and women with smocking instructions, Strumpfen (cloth 
hose) with Kniebänder, Wulsthaube, Wulst and Steuchlein (German women's 
headdresses, and hairstyle instructions for women).  Detailed instructions. 
Embellishment suggestions included. Historical notes. All Sizes in one 
envelope.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
historical sewing patterns; quality, hand-crafted cooperage; embroidery 
supplies, and more.
www.5rivers.org - info@5rivers.org
519-799-5577 

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Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 08:54:51 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress
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>OK, consider me properly chastized!  I can't imagine wearing something 
>that looks like it pulls your head back as being comfortable,

Done right they are, or I wouldn't wear one.

>  but to each his own.  I didn't mean to start a war,

No war here.  But my first historical costume was an Albrecht Durer German 
dress, and I'm kind of fond of the look.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] German Headdress
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I couldn't find the instructions/patterns.  I'd love to have the pizza hat instructions and the "starfish" hat.
Julie

----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> I happen to find mine very comfortable as well:
> http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/hats.htm (I have a pattern and >interior  photos to share of each hat a few typos to clear... it's not >quite ready to  go public but what the heck;) )

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Wanted to apologize to all for only being a lurker for the last 12 weeks or so. Was finishing costumes for "Beauty and the Beast" for Tuacahn( local professional theatre) and then I fell and broke my right knee. Am back on my feet now {mostly, am on a single crutch} and have started a few projects of my own. Have enjoyed the conversation threads and learned LOTS from you all. A big thank you for the education.

		
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I am working on a costume for me. Not exactly period, but close. I am making a tabard to go over a kirtle-style dress. I will be appliqueing a fairy on the tabard and embellishing with beading. All is out of silks and will need to be stabilzed with something because of weight. Have chosen silk batting and purchased it already. The batting came with DRY CLEAN ONLY instructions. WHY  DRY CLEAN ONLY? 
 
Thanks,
Jodi

		
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"Five Rivers Chapmanry"
<lgsteph@wightman.ca> writes:
>
>     Had a computer crash this year and subsequently lost all my
> favourite websites.

You'll want to look into http://del.icio.us/; they provide online
bookmarks.  Very nice.

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
And if made to pass a high-enough instantaneous current, most
diodes will become Noise-emitting devices too.       --Tanuki

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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress
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I guess there is a reason the list received four identical messages, but I sent only one.  It seems that Netscape either sends dupicate messages or doesn't send them at all.  I don't know what the problem is and I don't know how to correct it.  I did say that I was sorry I wrote my first message and I should think that would be enough to get you people off my case.  Give me a break here, I am trying to move from a house I lived in for thirty five years into one that doesn't have nearly as much space and I am exhausted and frustrated and don't need to be jumped on for asking a stupid question.  In the future I will make every effort to keep my opinions to myself.  OK?  Can we drop it now?  Thanks - and again sorry to have stepped on any toes.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

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Is there some actual reason you felt compelled to send the same
identical message four different times? Isn't that just a wee bit of
overkill?

 
--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:

From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 07:27:39 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress

Oh, good grief, that's hardly a "war."  Just several people answering
your question in such ways that showed that we didn't agree with you. 
If you don't want to wear one or make one, then don't.  But obviously, 
some of us would, for the reasons we stated as well as others.  My 
personal and 21st century (American) aesthetics are distinctly non-16th 
c. German, but that doesn't mean it isn't worth exploring something I 
don't immediately understand.  Heck, that's probably *the* major reason 
I've played with and learned about historical costuming for the last 2 
decades....
--Sue, curious about it all, even if she'll never get to wear or make 
most of it...

Lalah wrote (several times):

> OK, consider me properly chastized!  I can't imagine wearing
> something that looks like it pulls your head back as being
> comfortable, but to each his own.  I didn't mean to start a war, just
> made a comment.  Sorry

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Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 14:45:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Osnaburg (& silk question)
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Thanks, and oops - I had cut this down from a much longer and rambling message and guess I edited too much - mid to late 1400's is what I have in mind at the moment. But may end up in something for a later period.
 
AnnetteM
 

From: Joan Jurancich 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Osnaburg (& silk question)

At 09:01 PM 8/9/2005, you wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I found this definition - Osnaburg: A plainly woven cotton fabric 
>with small flecks of cotton stalks remaining within the weave. Its 
>appearance is similar to a coarse muslin.
>
>Sounds like flour sacking material to me.
>
>
>I found some gorgeous peacock blue silk - with a shimmer that 
>changes color from the greenish to blueish peacock range depending 
>on the angle of the light. I thought it would make a beautiful skirt 
>lining or something? Would something like this be too OOP? (if it 
>is, I think I'll add it to my collection anyway, but it would be 
>nice to have an excuse)
>
>Annette M
>(someday I hope I can contribute as much as I get from here)
>

It sounds like changeable silk to me, which has been around a long 
time (definitely during the 16th century, and probably much 
earlier). Look at the warp and weft threads; they are probably 
different colors (from your description it sounds like they may be 
blue and green). It would make a lovely dress if it's the right weight.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 



------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 22:27:29 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Osnaburg (& silk question)

Hi, Annette! Dunno about the Osnaburg (only flour sacking I'm familiar 
with is the printed cotton stuff reused for dresses and quilts and 
such), but the peacock silk sounds absolutely lovely. It would be 
perfectly appropriate for some types of historical clothing, and not so 
appropriate for others--the weave structure of the fabric, the weight of 
it, the color, all could have an effect on suitability for a given 
garment. So, the OOP-ness of it would depend quite strongly on what 
time period (and culture) you're thinking of. So if you give us a few 
more details (e.g., "I want to make a 25th Century Whatzit as worn 
during High Court Functions in the Barony of Mumbledon, would that 
work?"), we can probably give you better advice.
Personally, of course, it sounds like a glorious addition to anyone's 
stash. ;o) Mine included, if you want to get rid of it!
--Sue in Montana, trying to stay cool.....

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 02:40:51 -0500
From: "otsisto" 
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Osnaburg (& silk question)

I have worked with Osnaburg and it isn't flour sack material. The weave is
not tight enough.
Silk, sounds beautiful. Remember that it is a warming fabric so you might
not want to line any summer costumes with it if you are in a warm humid
climate.
It sounds like you have what is referred to as shot(sp?) fabric, which can
be found in the mid 1500s (I think earlier but not sure) in certain areas up
through the ages.
What period are you thinking of?

De




		
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I am working on a costume for me. Not exactly period, but close. I am making a tabard to go over a kirtle-style dress. I will be appliqueing a fairy on the tabard and embellishing with beading. All is out of silks and will need to be stabilzed with something because of weight. Have chosen silk batting and purchased it already. The batting came with DRY CLEAN ONLY instructions. WHY  DRY CLEAN ONLY? 
 
Thanks,
Jodi

		
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Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 13:45:55 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk batting question
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At 01:24 PM 8/10/2005, you wrote:
>I am working on a costume for me. Not exactly period, but close. I 
>am making a tabard to go over a kirtle-style dress. I will be 
>appliqueing a fairy on the tabard and embellishing with beading. All 
>is out of silks and will need to be stabilzed with something because 
>of weight. Have chosen silk batting and purchased it already. The 
>batting came with DRY CLEAN ONLY instructions. WHY  DRY CLEAN ONLY?
>
>Thanks,
>Jodi

Such instructions are mostly CYA for the producer.  Most people do 
not know how to clean silks properly.  Although silk batting doesn't 
sound, to me, like something that would "stabilize" heavily 
embellished silk.  Personally, I would look for something like silk 
denim (yes, it does exist; denim is a twill weave and is not 
dependent upon fiber type) or fairly heavy silk broadcloth or other 
firmly woven silk fabric.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: [h-cost] Indian Fabric Source Was: German Headdress
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Sheridan,
Where would you find an Indian fabric store? I'm in Florida and I don't
think we have any locally, is there a good site online?

Thanks,
Wendi

Sheridan wrote:
>
>If you can get yourself to an Indian fabric store, the silk they use for
>Dupattas is about as close to the gauze you see in these paintings as you
>can modernly get. I have also seen silk with 'gold' very similar to  some
>of the paintings you have on your site, and I had planned to use something
>like that for  one of the more elaborate hats in future.
>
>Thanks for the info!
>
>Sheridan


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> In the future I will make every effort to keep my opinions to myself.  OK? 
> Can we drop it now?  Thanks - and again sorry to have
> stepped on any toes.

I've been around long enough to know that you can be... blunt, at times :-) 
So I just ignored your comment - I guess those whose main interest IS German 
Ren might have felt compelled to defend their hobby and attire. I don't 
think there's any harm done, and we do want to hear what you have to say... 
even if we don't always agree :-) 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: linnen stains
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At 05:50 AM 8/8/2005, you wrote:
>The only things I've dealt with that don't seem to respond to it are the
>yellowish residue of tomato stains on my printed cotton knit tops, and
>some longstanding ?grease stains that just won't let go of my t-shirts no
>matter what I dump on them.


Something I just read in the newspaper about, and tried only once so far 
with great success (but not on a very old stain), was to use clear shampoo 
and salt. It must be clear shampoo. You apply this onto the garment stain, 
add regular salt on top, and allow to sit overnight. Next day wash it with 
the rest of the wash. The greasy food stain I put it on disappeared 
completely, along with the unknown black marks and coffee stains on my 
husband's white cotton polo shirt.

I plan on seeing if it will work on my older stains, but already did the 
colored wash this week, so it will be next week before I get to it.

hth,

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th Century German patterns
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At 06:46 AM 8/10/2005, you wrote:
>Waffenrock or Captain's Gown
>
>Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes 
>for men's early 16th century German Waffenrok or Arming Gown as worn by 
>Landsknecht officers. Pattern includes arming gown with full sleeves and a 
>variety of skirt pleating techniques. Fits chests 34"-54". All Sizes in 
>one envelope.   Embellishment suggestions included.


I so could have used that pattern a few years ago. Glad someone finally 
came out with the pattern. Anyone here try it yet?

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Career Question: Education and going into
	business: (Long)
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At 12:21 AM 8/4/2005, you wrote:
>My college professors told me, you don't have to take the accounting 
>majors classes to be successful in business.  But you do need to know 
>enough accounting that if the accountant/bookkeeper is cheating you.
>
>I hope this advice helps you with your decision.  Best of luck to you!


Penny,

That was very well written. Thank you for sharing that.

There is also something I would add, as a person who is both a degreed 
accountant and a costumer. If you go into business for yourself, test the 
market to see if your area can support your chosen work area. In fact, 
along with accounting classes, take marketing classes as well, or hire a 
marketing expert that can test your local market. Some campuses may offer 
this at a lower rate as experience for their marketing students.

While my area is heavy into Renaissance faires, the people who are a part 
of that community are too poor to support a qualified costumer on a full 
time basis. So, now I have to modify my original costuming business goals. 
But I spent a full year before I officially started my business just asking 
questions of everyone I knew. My research, and experience since, has shown 
that most people want to rent inexpensive costumes for one night or one 
weekend, and even that is not supportable for a full time business, even in 
my relatively large city. Unfortunately, I don't have the space to create 
and store such a business, and my friend who did went out of business 
because she could not support herself (she charged too low a price, but 
that was only one factor).

Kimiko

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fashion plates website 1870's
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At 07:44 PM 8/6/2005, you wrote:
>Have you tried the Truly Victorian website for patterns from 1830-1900?  They
>are thoroughly researched and well made patterns and the owner/designers -
>Heather and Laura MacNaughton -- have often taught at Costume College in Van
>Nuys.  It it well worth a look if you are even thinking of doing anything in
>early bustle, natural form or late bustle period.  Plus the pictures of what
>others have made from their patterns are to die for!
>
>Good luck.
>
>
>Donna Scarfe (Mistress Felicity)
>Fyne Hats By Felicity
>Period Headgear for Past Ages
>www.fynehatsbyfelicity


Oh, yes Donna, I do have some of their patterns. Ever since I saw those two 
ladies at Costume College wearing their bustle dresses, and sitting 
comfortably in them, I just had to have one. I just want something ... 
different than their basic patterns to work towards.

I only wish on their website that their images of the costumes they wear 
were better lit, and larger, to get in more of the details. I love their 
details on the dresses I've seen them in.

Kimiko


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At 01:45 PM 8/10/2005, you wrote:
 > Personally, I would look for something like silk denim (yes, it does 
exist; denim is a twill weave and is not dependent upon fiber type) or 
fairly heavy silk broadcloth or other firmly woven silk fabric.

>Joan Jurancich
>joanmj@surewest.net


Any idea where one can find good silk denim? I've found silk twills all 
over the place, but none are very ... heavy (12 mm). And I've only found 
lightweight silk broadcloth, which is nice, but again, not "heavy" enough 
for what I want to make, which is a Tudor noble's gown. Or am I missing 
something about the weights of modern silks?

In fact, besides velvet (which I will stick with cotton velvet for a gown), 
or satin (which has it's own snagging issues), what modern silk fabrics 
would people suggest for 16th c. Tudor/Elizabethan gowns? And any 
suggestions for where to find the heavier weight fabrics? I've done Thai 
Silks, Dharma Trading, and denverfabrics.com, and not found anything I 
think is "heavy" enough to withstand the (ab)use at faires.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Kimiko


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At 11:18 PM 8/7/2005, you wrote:
>I notice you haven't got the photos from QEWU of that effigy that shows the
>veil of the French hood flipped up, showing some sort of bag like headwear
>underneath. (or perhaps that's one of the ones waiting to be scanned?)
>Elizabeth


Hi Elizabeth,

I have so many pages in the QEWU tagged with post-it notes that it looks 
like I used up a whole package! I've been working on getting images found 
online and sent by others first, that I haven't had the time to scan 
anything more, yet. But QEWU will be the first book scanned as soon as I 
get more time.

In fact, I've been so busy with that project, I have only today been able 
to catch up on my e-mail readings. But I have learned so much about French 
hoods.

Kimiko

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Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 18:51:05 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Heavier silks, was Re: [h-cost] silk denim and other heavy
	silk fabrics (was: Silk batting question)
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Status: RO

Rupert and Gibbon (dba Silk Connections) have some heavier fabrics 
that might work.  Here's the URL: 
http://www.silkconnection.com/products/fabric/silk/shantung/ .  The 
heavy silk shantung sounds like it might be what you are looking for.
Joan

At 06:22 PM 8/10/2005, you wrote:
>At 01:45 PM 8/10/2005, you wrote:
> > Personally, I would look for something like silk denim (yes, it 
> does exist; denim is a twill weave and is not dependent upon fiber 
> type) or fairly heavy silk broadcloth or other firmly woven silk fabric.
>
>>Joan Jurancich
>>joanmj@surewest.net
>
>
>Any idea where one can find good silk denim? I've found silk twills 
>all over the place, but none are very ... heavy (12 mm). And I've 
>only found lightweight silk broadcloth, which is nice, but again, 
>not "heavy" enough for what I want to make, which is a Tudor noble's 
>gown. Or am I missing something about the weights of modern silks?
>
>In fact, besides velvet (which I will stick with cotton velvet for a 
>gown), or satin (which has it's own snagging issues), what modern 
>silk fabrics would people suggest for 16th c. Tudor/Elizabethan 
>gowns? And any suggestions for where to find the heavier weight 
>fabrics? I've done Thai Silks, Dharma Trading, and 
>denverfabrics.com, and not found anything I think is "heavy" enough 
>to withstand the (ab)use at faires.
>
>Thanks for any suggestions.
>
>Kimiko
>
>
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At 06:51 PM 8/10/2005, you wrote:
>Rupert and Gibbon (dba Silk Connections) have some heavier fabrics that 
>might work.  Here's the URL: 
>http://www.silkconnection.com/products/fabric/silk/shantung/ .  The heavy 
>silk shantung sounds like it might be what you are looking for.
>Joan


Thanks Joan,

I like working with silk shantung, just hadn't seen any heavy stuff.

Kimiko


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At 01:13 PM 8/7/2005, you wrote:
>    Had a computer crash this year and subsequently lost all my favourite 
> websites. Ever since I've been looking for a particular on-line silk 
> supplier for either noile or shot dupioni. All I can recall was the 
> prices were ridiculously reasonable, especially at the quantities I was 
> looking at purchasing. (30 yards +)
>
>    I've been to Denver, Dharma, G&S, Thai and none of them seem to be the 
> company where I'd found wonderful colours of noile for around $4.00/yd.
>
>    Any ideas, oh great hoarders of fabric?
>
>Regards
>Lorina


I think Joan just directed me to a possible source for you for silk noil, 
if you got it undyed. I am seeing prices starting at $3.41 for a yard.
http://www.silkconnection.com/products/fabric/silk/noil/
But nothing listed for shot dupioni at that site.

Have you tried Super Silk? http://www.supersilk.com/index1.asp
I just found them after looking at the back of the recent Threads magazine.

Kimiko


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Hmm, I haven't actually tried to find such a thing online, although I am
sure it exists, most major cities have a neighborhood where the local Indian
population tends to conregate and set up businesses to cater to the locals.
When I lived in Western Canada, there were a few stores in Calgary and
Edmonton that I frequented, now I'm close to Toronto and have a guide who
shops with me in 'Little India' whenever I can afford the trip.  I have
found narrow silk chiffon/gauze for as cheap as 2.00 a yard! Ebay sometimes
has dupatta fabric that they claim is silk, but usually it's synthetic,
heavily patterned, and not sheer enough.

Now I'm curious, I'll snoop around the 'net and pass on anything I find.

Sheridan


> Sheridan,
> Where would you find an Indian fabric store? I'm in Florida and I don't
> think we have any locally, is there a good site online?
>
> Thanks,
> Wendi
>
> Sheridan wrote:
> >
> >If you can get yourself to an Indian fabric store, the silk they use for
> >Dupattas is about as close to the gauze you see in these paintings as you
> >can modernly get. I have also seen silk with 'gold' very similar to  some
> >of the paintings you have on your site, and I had planned to use
something
> >like that for  one of the more elaborate hats in future.
> >
> >Thanks for the info!
> >
> >Sheridan
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web - Check your email from the web at
> http://mail2web.com/ .
>
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian Fabric Source Was: German Headdress
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Oops! Duh! Totally forgot, Dharma Trading carries plain silk gauze and
chiffon. If you can't find a fabric store specializing in Indian fabrics,
this would definitely do the trick..

http://www.dharmatrading.com


> Sheridan,
> Where would you find an Indian fabric store? I'm in Florida and I don't
> think we have any locally, is there a good site online?
>
> Thanks,
> Wendi


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Hell-oooo!
I'd like to point out that the post she saw fit to reply to on a public
list was in fact sent to her privately, and was not meant for general 
consumption.  My apologies to the list for you guys having to see the 
unfortunately-made-public side of my occasionally sarcastic tongue.  I 
quite definitely broke my own rule about not responding in annoyance or 
anger until at least 24 hrs. have passed.  And if I don't sign this post 
and send it now, I'll probably break it again.  So y'all have a nice 
night....
--Sue

Lalah wrote:

> I guess there is a reason the list received four identical messages,
> but I sent only one.  It seems that Netscape either sends dupicate
> messages or doesn't send them at all.  I don't know what the problem
> is and I don't know how to correct it.  I did say that I was sorry I
> wrote my first message and I should think that would be enough to get
> you people off my case.  Give me a break here, I am trying to move
> from a house I lived in for thirty five years into one that doesn't
> have nearly as much space and I am exhausted and frustrated and don't
> need to be jumped on for asking a stupid question.  In the future I
> will make every effort to keep my opinions to myself.  OK?  Can we
> drop it now?  Thanks - and again sorry to have stepped on any toes.
> 
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
> 
> Attachments Name Type Save View Message   text/plain Save
> 
> Is there some actual reason you felt compelled to send the same 
> identical message four different times? Isn't that just a wee bit of 
> overkill?

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Aug 10 23:57:16 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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There's a new DVD (though of a 1991 film) of a four-part BBC production 
of "Clarissa," from the 18th-century novel by Samuel Richardson.  
Lovelace, a nobleman and dedicated rake, obsessively pursues Clarissa, a 
bourgeois paragon of moral virtue and therefore the ultimate challenge.  
Her greedy, scheming, vindictive brother and sister combine to urge 
their parents and wealthy uncle to force Clarissa into marriage with a 
rich, ugly airhead.  For the first time in her life Clarissa rebels and 
eventually has to seek Lovelace's protection. He tries one elaborate 
scheme after another to actually get her into bed.  And finally . . .

Well, watch it!

Taut, menacing, sensual (with even incestuous overtones in Clarissa's 
siblings' relationship), this film is almost as good as "Dangerous 
Liasions."  And probably a lot better than the novel, which is 1536 
pages in the Penguin edition and reputed to be one of the longest novels 
in the English language, perhaps _the_ longest.  I haven't read it and 
I'm not going to, as I gather it gets quite tiresome.

But the film, with the action left in and much of the moralizing 
stripped out, is another story.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Ouch! That's sound really painful! Hope you're healing well!
--sue (knees wincing in sympathy....)
p.s.  Tell us more about your B&B costumes....;o)

Jodi Nelson wrote:

> Wanted to apologize to all for only being a lurker for the last 12
> weeks or so. Was finishing costumes for "Beauty and the Beast" for
> Tuacahn( local professional theatre) and then I fell and broke my
> right knee. Am back on my feet now {mostly, am on a single crutch}
> and have started a few projects of my own. Have enjoyed the
> conversation threads and learned LOTS from you all. A big thank you
> for the education.

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I don't know, having never even heard of silk batting (sounds
luxurious).  Perhaps you could ask the manufacturer, or whomever you
purchased it from?
--sue

Jodi Nelson wrote:

> I am working on a costume for me. Not exactly period, but close. I am
> making a tabard to go over a kirtle-style dress. I will be
> appliqueing a fairy on the tabard and embellishing with beading. All
> is out of silks and will need to be stabilzed with something because
> of weight. Have chosen silk batting and purchased it already. The
> batting came with DRY CLEAN ONLY instructions. WHY  DRY CLEAN ONLY?

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: German headdresses
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It also looks like they were the inspiration for more than a few of 
Guinan's hats in "Star Trek: The Next Generation". <g> (and very 
not-historical)

Sandy

At 06:42 AM 8/10/2005, you wrote:

>Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 00:05:20 -0400
>From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: German Headdress
>
> > *snip*
> >
> > Oddly enough, the German movie, Hexen
> > http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0068925/ shows an actress wearing a similar
> > headdress, and gives back views of it.
> > Kate McClure
>
>One of these hats also makes an appearance in 'Ever After' as worn by
>Angelica Houston.
>
>Sheridan

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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Happy dance, happy dance!

I am so pleased this is now on DVD:) I got to watch it on TV when it aired
and was so inspired by the cossies... I will have to try and track down a
copy in my region of the world...

Sean Bean in pantaloons.. what else could you want;)

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com


> There's a new DVD (though of a 1991 film) of a four-part BBC production
> of "Clarissa," from the 18th-century novel by Samuel Richardson.
> Lovelace, a nobleman and dedicated rake, obsessively pursues Clarissa, a
> bourgeois paragon of moral virtue and therefore the ultimate challenge.
> Her greedy, scheming, vindictive brother and sister combine to urge
> their parents and wealthy uncle to force Clarissa into marriage with a
> rich, ugly airhead.  For the first time in her life Clarissa rebels and
> eventually has to seek Lovelace's protection. He tries one elaborate
> scheme after another to actually get her into bed.  And finally . . .




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress
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>In the future I will make every effort to keep my opinions to myself.

I thought it was a perfectly valid opinion - some of these headpieces 
really are funny-looking.  My opinion is that there are a few sedate and 
becoming ones, and mine looks like one of them.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>I couldn't find the instructions/patterns.  I'd love to have the pizza hat 
>instructions and the "starfish" hat.

I believe I'm the one who invented the "pizza" hat, at least in it's modern 
early-Durer configuration, in 1971.  I really need to post the instructions 
on my website.  After Ren. Faire...


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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> >I couldn't find the instructions/patterns.  I'd love to have the pizza
hat
> >instructions and the "starfish" hat.

So the slashed crown hat is the one called the starfish hat.... hmmmm.. I
admit I wanted to take a photo of the crown flopped on my head as it was a
bit like an octopus out of water in shape..... and thought about the
starfish connection. I actually thought it referred to a different hat... a
softer slashed brim version of the barrett... But that's because I wasn't
making the hats when I was reading the modern references to them;)


> I believe I'm the one who invented the "pizza" hat, at least in it's
modern
> early-Durer configuration, in 1971.  I really need to post the
instructions
> on my website.  After Ren. Faire...

You should, I know several people who use it (the origami crown right?) but
never know where to point people;)

I actually used the barrett in the Germanishes National Museum as my starter
for mine which is essential three circles the same size one pleated into a
hole cut for the head in the other two to make the crown and brim;) A few
stabilising fetaures (wire and interfacing) of course are needed.

I also will be filling out my page as I am doing a class on German headgear
next weekend. I do have patterns and will include step by step instructions
that I used. I need to make a new fitted cap for the wulst and a new later
period wulst (where it seems to have slipped down at the back of the head.

I also have rehersals for The Secret Garden here which are taking up a bit
of time as well. But I should get the class up in a very short time.

I need to get a class on cirles in German Garb up as well. Handy little
devils they are. hats, schauben, skirts, bases.....


michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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Subject: [h-cost] greenland groans
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Status: RO

  I am making a greenland gown, and having neckline problems

I want a high neck, and a laced chest. So I have it slit from collar 
bone to mid bust.

I have extra fabric there so I'm a little confused on how to cut it 
past the slit. (which I already messed up and cut it off center and 
slightly askew an inch  from the new slit -  had to restitch it shut 
over some bias tape backing and will have to cover up with trim/edging 
bias of the same fabric)

since there is a least an inch of gathering should i cut it to be more 
of askinny U shaped cut, so the laceing will pull it together?

Does anyone know a link that will show me this in pictures?

jen
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Aug 11 03:15:12 2005
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Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 03:13:24 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk vendors 
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I know all three of these sources are pretty well-known and conventional,
and maybe somebody has already mentioned them in the context of the silk
hunt and I missed it. But I would never go in search of silk without
checking out:
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com
http://www.fabrics.com
http://www.denverfabrics.com.

 Intermittently, fashionfabricsclub.com has had silk denims and silk
broadcloths of varying weights; I got a really fabulous black/olive shot
silk oxford that's a really nice heavy weight. Right now they have three
100% silk oxford fabrics (oxford is a plain weave, heavy weight) for $8 a
yard. Right now they also have a black and gold cross-woven twill
suit-weight silk for $10 a yard
(http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.cfm?ItmID=K193)
and a whole mess of $9 a yard shantungs.
Fabric.com has also had silk denim on occasion.

Both will let you return stuff if it's really not what you wanted when it
arrives, and both offer pretty good prices. They also both carry rather
extensive lines of douppionis, as does denverfabrics.com.

Fashionfabricsclub.com also sometimes has $4 noils, and often has $6 - $8
ones,  denverfabrics.com has them in the $5 - $8 range too. The selection
varies as they get new stuf in, and different fabrics go on sale at
different times, but if you keep an eye on them you can get some good noil
bargains. Right now denverfabrics.com is offering three matka-type silk
suitings for $3.98 a yard, for instance.

For silk gauzes, organzas, chiffons,  and other sheers, I would also always
check these three vendors first -- you never know, and sometimes they have
really wonderful stuff at really bearable prices.
-- 
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net
-- 
"One does not need buildings, money, power, or status to practice the Art of
Peace. Heaven is right where you are standing, and that is the place to
train." -- Morihei Ueshiba

> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] going into business: (even Longer)
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Your welcome Kim.

That was a really good point to make.  I recently talked to a lady in 
Gettysburg who has lots of costumes ready made.  You would think in 
Gettysburg, you wouldn't have a problem selling ACW ladies' costumes.  But 
that market's area has so many established costume businesses that have they 
have the market tied up.  This lady does beautiful work.  But she is being 
forced to sell her costumes at below their cost because she needs to get 
back her investment.

I have a lot of education in marketing and merchandising.  So many factors 
go into play when marketing a product line.  I don't know if you are 
watching the Tommy Hilfiger reality show on CBS, called The Cut.  It is 
really interesting because he is dealing more with the business side of 
design than the creative edge.  Last week the challenge was taking 500 
pieces of TH merchandise and reconstructing it to sell on the streets.  One 
team lost a day of selling, and decided to sell the clothing for $5 a piece. 
The other team had two days of selling and had only knocked about $20 off 
the suggested retail price.  Tommy was very upset about the team that priced 
at $5, but they sold the most merchandise.  The $20 off team received a 
stern talking to for pricing to high.  Price points (pricing) comes from 
studying the market and what the market can bear. If you price to low, you 
can hurt the intregity of the designer's name.  If your price is too high, 
you can scare away customers and have to depend on those few sales.

If you look at pricing of a product line in any store, there is a medium 
point in the price line structure.  The medium line is generally contains 
the largest number of products. This is what the retailer counts to pay the 
bills. The higher-end merchandise can bear several markdowns and the 
retailer can still make a profit.  The medium line can only bear a few 
markdowns.  The lower end merchandise generally is to bring the customers 
into the store.  The retailer may be taking a loss but can afford to take 
the risk to generate more business.

A good way to understand this is to look a your local grocery stores weekly 
ads.  Last week, a local store put staple items on sale for 10 for $10. 
This is their slow season so they need to generate business.  They were 
taking a loss doing this, but they were bringing more people into their 
store during a slow time of the year.    If you shop regularly at this store 
like I do, you would notice the other items in their sale paper were at 
regular prices.  They made their profit from bringing more people into the 
store. This week, a different grocery store has the same 10 for $10 
promotion on similar products.  Who do you think generated more business? 
Store A, because they were the first to bring these new/returning customers 
into the store.  Another marketing factor came into play... as my husband 
calls it, The Eagle Screamed... government payday week.  Store A had the 
promotion during the goverment pay week.  This was a smart marketing 
strategy for Store A.  Now you might not think that this plays into the 
costuming business... but it does!  Costuming is not a necessity of life... 
products are purchased with what money we have left over after paying our 
bills.  I have seen over the years that the third week beginning of the 
fourth week is when most people spend money on costuming.  They have paid 
their bills and by that point in the month, they know what extra money they 
do or do not have.  Saying that, another marketing factor comes into play... 
one we all don't like but it is still a factor.  People are having less 
**extra money** to play with at this moment because the price of gasoline is 
affecting our budgets.  This extra expense is cutting into how much extra 
money we have to play with in a month.  If you have been into business over 
a year, you might see that your sales in the last two quarters of this year 
might not be as high as the previous year.  Sales might float up and down 
just like the gas prices.

Demographics is a large factor in marketing.  If you have access to a good 
university library, you can find some needed information in the reference 
section.  I know there is a book that tells how many people are in certain 
organizations, like SCA.  You could poll groups for demographic information. 
Something to think about, what are the average ages of people going to the 
faires. College age people probably don't have has much extra money to spend 
as the 25 and older group. If doing bridal in off-seasons, you can find 
information as to what the average prices for wedding dresses in your area 
by checking with local bridal shops.  You can check the 2000 census reports 
for things like income levels, mean. age, educational levels, etc. Some 
city's take their own census and can provide that information.  A Chamber of 
Commerce might be a good place to look for that information.  This can give 
you a better idea where would be a good location for your business.  If you 
are just selling locally, there are three zones for business, primary, 
secondary, and tertiary.  These areas descend at five mile radius from the 
business.  I can tell you from my business being on the internet, that the 
majority of people into costuming (in general) in the U.S. are located in 
California and Virginia.  There are lots of other hot locations in the U.S. 
but this is where I have found the most interest in historic costuming over 
the years.  An example of special interest is for the Victorian bustle era, 
the southwest is very popular.

Things that could influence the costuming business is what movie or 
television shows are popular at the time.  I spoke with a lady in London who 
is very big into role-playing games online. One of the things her group 
loved is the HBO series Deadwood.  I remember when the series Lovesome Dove 
was popular and the whole fashion industry did a swing towards Western style 
clothing for women.  This even took a swing into the southwestern style home 
furnishings.  Keeping an eye on Hollywood as to what is coming up and being 
the first one to offer adapted costumes, is a great way to get your name out 
there.  If you watch the Hollywood rag shows like ET, Access, or get the 
Hollywood magazines like Entertainment Weekly, you can follow what is on the 
horizon as to what films are coming out.  Vogue will occasionally have 
articles about the costumes from an upcoming film.  With blogs being so 
popular on the web, you can find blogs about movies that people are awaiting 
to come out.  Someone on h-costume mentioned a blog about the costumes from 
the last Star Wars... I think it was Michaela.  I went to the blog and they 
had images of the costumes detailing.  When I watched the film I didn't 
notice some of the details that we mentioned on the blog.  But after the 
description, I would love to see it again, to see those details.

Kim, when in business you will be re-evaluating and changing your goals as 
your business ages.  The market changes all the time.  Have you found that 
you have seasons in your business?  Most businesses do.  During the slow 
seasons you can build up stock or look to other marketplaces that have 
seasons.  Like when it is not Renfaires season, look to the bridal market. 
I know one costumer in California, who picks up movie sub-contracts in her 
off-season.

Renfaire may be your favorite season, but to bring in $$$ in other seasons, 
you might want to look around for other markets that you could hit, like the 
anime industry and their conventions.  The whole role-playing industry is 
really unbelievable.

When I started out in business, I had set in my mind that there were certain 
time periods that I hated.  Never failed, I would get jobs working in those 
time periods and I learned to respect them.

BTW, if you are considering going into the design end of the business, I do 
suggest watching the two reality shows from this past year, Project Runway 
and The Cut.  As I said before The Cut is more along the lines of the 
business side of the industry.  Project Runway (PR) is the creative side of 
the business.

I have PR on videotape and am loaning it to people around the U.S. My tapes 
have been traveling all over the U.S. this summer.  They are on their way to 
the final person on the waiting list.  If you would like to be put on the 
waiting list to borrow them, send me a private message and I will put you on 
the list.  The rules for the loan is that you have two weeks to watch the 
series.  You will be responsible for mailing them to the next person on the 
waiting list.  I am videotaping The Cut too.  I will be loaning those tapes 
out when the series is over.  To be on the waiting lists, please send me a 
private message, with your name, snail mail address, email address, phone 
number, and which series you want to borrow.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] going into business: (even Longer)
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<Huge snip>



>Things that could influence the costuming business is what movie or 
>television shows are popular at the time.  I spoke with a lady in 
>London who is very big into role-playing games online. One of the 
>things her group loved is the HBO series Deadwood.  I remember when 
>the series Lovesome Dove was popular and the whole fashion industry 
>did a swing towards Western style clothing for women.  This even 
>took a swing into the southwestern style home furnishings.  Keeping 
>an eye on Hollywood as to what is coming up and being the first one 
>to offer adapted costumes, is a great way to get your name out 
>there.  If you watch the Hollywood rag shows like ET, Access, or get 
>the Hollywood magazines like Entertainment Weekly, you can follow 
>what is on the horizon as to what films are coming out.  Vogue will 
>occasionally have articles about the costumes from an upcoming 
>film.  With blogs being so popular on the web, you can find blogs 
>about movies that people are awaiting to come out.  Someone on 
>h-costume mentioned a blog about the costumes from the last Star 
>Wars... I think it was Michaela.  I went to the blog and they had 
>images of the costumes detailing.  When I watched the film I didn't 
>notice some of the details that we mentioned on the blog.  But after 
>the description, I would love to see it again, to see those details.

I have been a costume maker for 24 years and always swore I would not 
make wedding dress. I was wrong - I will make "period" wedding 
dresses - and these are mostly influenced by films and TV - I cannot 
count the number of Mr. Darcy coats or suits I have made. Pirates of 
the Caribean coats have been popular this season.

>Kim, when in business you will be re-evaluating and changing your 
>goals as your business ages.  The market changes all the time.  Have 
>you found that you have seasons in your business?  Most businesses 
>do.  During the slow seasons you can build up stock or look to other 
>marketplaces that have seasons.  Like when it is not Renfaires 
>season, look to the bridal market. I know one costumer in 
>California, who picks up movie sub-contracts in her off-season.

I tend to have more work toward the summer, for the many summer 
schools  that my customers attend. Unlike the U.S. there are not the 
same kind of Faires, but summer schools, where groups learn different 
dances, are popular. The one thing I do not do is build up stock 
because as sure as God made little fishes, I will not be taking 
orders for that style any year soon. In my own business I only make 
to order. (Besides, there's all those tens of yards of cloth waiting 
for me to make clothes for ME!)

><snip)
>When I started out in business, I had set in my mind that there were 
>certain time periods that I hated.  Never failed, I would get jobs 
>working in those time periods and I learned to respect them.

Oh, yes, I'll agree with that, but I do have "cut off" dates. I do 
not make any "costume" after 1900 - I'm no good at it - or any men's 
clothing after about 1850, as the tailoring becomes too complicated. 
The wedding clothes I make are all based on period styles, and use 
the patterns I use for the rest of my business.



Suzi (making two 18th century wedding outfits right now!!) 


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Has anyone taking orders for the Ball Room dance craze?  Ever since that 
Ball Room dance show aired, people are flocking to the dance studios.  This 
has really taken off using the 1920s and 1930s gowns?

Mentioning 1920s,  I watched The Aviator last night.  I love the cigarette 
girls mid-1920s costume.  The ladies in that scene were costumed 
beautifully.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Sheridan,
Thanks for the information - I'll have to snoop around my area, I don't think that we have a strong Indian population though.

Do you know of any good sources of authentic Indian patterns? I know Folkwear has a few, but didn't know if there was anything else out there. I've been trying to find a pattern for an authentic wedding sari suit; I don't know if there is an official name for it.

Thanks,
Wendi
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 23:27:23 -0400
> From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian Fabric Source Was: German Headdress
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <005b01c59e24$9929ec80$0a02a8c0@nodomainset.bellcanada>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Oops! Duh! Totally forgot, Dharma Trading carries plain >silk gauze and chiffon. If you can't find a fabric store >specializing in Indian fabrics, this would definitely do >the trick..
> 
> http://www.dharmatrading.com
> 
> 
> > Sheridan,
> > Where would you find an Indian fabric store? I'm in 
> > Florida and I don't
> > think we have any locally, is there a good site online?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Wendi
> 
> 
> 
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk denim and other heavy silk fabrics (was: Silk
	batting question)
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What about taffeta?  I've been very happy with the taffeta from Denver 
Fabrics, and it's heavy/tightly woven enough for a Tudor gown.  (I'm using 
it for early Tudor gowns, c1500-1525.)  And of course, it's also an accurate 
fabric choice.

-E House 

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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress
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<<< It came through 4 times, several minutes apart.
And I am giving you a break.  I'm sure none of want you to un-sub, but 
getting off your Holy High Altar of Martyrdom would make us even happier.
--sue>>>

And she did it again.  Miss Mooncat can be pretty nasty in private but wants the list to think she is a sweet little picked on angel.  I was ready to drop the whole thing, but she won't let go.  OK this is the very LAST thing I have to say in the matter and any further messages from her will be deleted without being read.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:

From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 22:00:40 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shapes of German Headdress

Hell-oooo!
I'd like to point out that the post she saw fit to reply to on a public
list was in fact sent to her privately, and was not meant for general 
consumption.  My apologies to the list for you guys having to see the 
unfortunately-made-public side of my occasionally sarcastic tongue.  I 
quite definitely broke my own rule about not responding in annoyance or 
anger until at least 24 hrs. have passed.  And if I don't sign this post 
and send it now, I'll probably break it again.  So y'all have a nice 
night....
--Sue

Lalah wrote:

> I guess there is a reason the list received four identical messages,
> but I sent only one.  It seems that Netscape either sends dupicate
> messages or doesn't send them at all.  I don't know what the problem
> is and I don't know how to correct it.  I did say that I was sorry I
> wrote my first message and I should think that would be enough to get
> you people off my case.  Give me a break here, I am trying to move
> from a house I lived in for thirty five years into one that doesn't
> have nearly as much space and I am exhausted and frustrated and don't
> need to be jumped on for asking a stupid question.  In the future I
> will make every effort to keep my opinions to myself.  OK?  Can we
> drop it now?  Thanks - and again sorry to have stepped on any toes.
> 
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
> 
> Attachments Name Type Save View Message   text/plain Save
> 
> Is there some actual reason you felt compelled to send the same 
> identical message four different times? Isn't that just a wee bit of 
> overkill?

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Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 06:34:58 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] German Headdress
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> > I believe I'm the one who invented the "pizza" hat, at least in it's
>modern
> > early-Durer configuration, in 1971.  I really need to post the
>instructions
> > on my website.  After Ren. Faire...
>
>You should, I know several people who use it (the origami crown right?) but
>never know where to point people;)
>
>I actually used the barrett in the Germanishes National Museum as my starter
>for mine which is essential three circles the same size one pleated into a
>hole cut for the head in the other two to make the crown and brim;) A few
>stabilising fetaures (wire and interfacing) of course are needed.

That one's later than 'mine'/Durer's.  Yes, mine's the one with the 
'origami' crown, and the slashed brim.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
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             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 15:41:25 +0200
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Dear Fran,
Thanks for this wonderfull news. I did watch this movie on BBC some years 
back, but never recorded it. It was as usual from BBC very elegantly 
costumes and i loved it.
This reminds me also of another play i once watched from BBC way back. It 
was a play wich took place in 1680ies and the costumes were gorgeous, dont 
remember the name of the author nor the name of the play, but it really 
deserved to be on DVD two. Especially interresting because there was a 
dressing scene, where the lady was very tightly laced in her stays.
Also i think it is so unfair that you english speaking people cant see the 
tv series they made of the marriage of Gustav III. It was so wonderfull and 
well played. They had hired english costumes and there were many many to die 
for costumes in it. About the story is true i dont know, must admit that 
swedish history is worse than my english history. Point of the story wich is 
a 3 hour play is that the king dont know how to act when he is supposed to 
make the poor danish princess pregnant. ( could be truth, i could imagine) 
He has to force one of his closest servants into the bedchamber and help 
him!
Remember the king was only 18 and he was broaght up by politicians and the 
princess was only 16 years old (horrors) Sometimes we cant imagine how 
horrifying and terrible it must have ben to be a monarch.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2005 5:56 AM
Subject: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"


> There's a new DVD (though of a 1991 film) of a four-part BBC production of 
> "Clarissa," from the 18th-century novel by Samuel Richardson.  Lovelace, a 
> nobleman and dedicated rake, obsessively pursues Clarissa, a bourgeois 
> paragon of moral virtue and therefore the ultimate challenge.  Her greedy, 
> scheming, vindictive brother and sister combine to urge their parents and 
> wealthy uncle to force Clarissa into marriage with a rich, ugly airhead. 
> For the first time in her life Clarissa rebels and eventually has to seek 
> Lovelace's protection. He tries one elaborate scheme after another to 
> actually get her into bed.  And finally . . .
>
> Well, watch it!
>
> Taut, menacing, sensual (with even incestuous overtones in Clarissa's 
> siblings' relationship), this film is almost as good as "Dangerous 
> Liasions."  And probably a lot better than the novel, which is 1536 pages 
> in the Penguin edition and reputed to be one of the longest novels in the 
> English language, perhaps _the_ longest.  I haven't read it and I'm not 
> going to, as I gather it gets quite tiresome.
>
> But the film, with the action left in and much of the moralizing stripped 
> out, is another story.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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At 14:41 11/08/2005, you wrote:
>Dear Fran,
>Thanks for this wonderfull news. I did watch this movie on BBC some 
>years back, but never recorded it. It was as usual from BBC very 
>elegantly costumes and i loved it.
>This reminds me also of another play i once watched from BBC way 
>back. It was a play wich took place in 1680ies and the costumes were 
>gorgeous, dont remember the name of the author nor the name of the 
>play, but it really deserved to be on DVD two. Especially 
>interresting because there was a dressing scene, where the lady was 
>very tightly laced in her stays.
>Also i think it is so unfair that you english speaking people cant 
>see the tv series they made of the marriage of Gustav III. It was so 
>wonderfull and well played. They had hired english costumes and 
>there were many many to die for costumes in it. About the story is 
>true i dont know, must admit that swedish history is worse than my 
>english history. Point of the story wich is a 3 hour play is that 
>the king dont know how to act when he is supposed to make the poor 
>danish princess pregnant. ( could be truth, i could imagine) He has 
>to force one of his closest servants into the bedchamber and help him!
>Remember the king was only 18 and he was broaght up by politicians 
>and the princess was only 16 years old (horrors) Sometimes we cant 
>imagine how horrifying and terrible it must have ben to be a monarch.
>
>>There's a new DVD (though of a 1991 film) of a four-part BBC 
>>production of "Clarissa," from the 18th-century novel by Samuel 
>>Richardson.  Lovelace, a nobleman and dedicated rake, obsessively 
>>pursues Clarissa, a bourgeois paragon of moral virtue and therefore 
>>the ultimate challenge.  Her greedy, scheming, vindictive brother 
>>and sister combine to urge their parents and wealthy uncle to force 
>>Clarissa into marriage with a rich, ugly airhead. For the first 
>>time in her life Clarissa rebels and eventually has to seek 
>>Lovelace's protection. He tries one elaborate scheme after another 
>>to actually get her into bed.  And finally . . .
>>
>>Well, watch it!
>>
>>Taut, menacing, sensual (with even incestuous overtones in 
>>Clarissa's siblings' relationship), this film is almost as good as 
>>"Dangerous Liasions."  And probably a lot better than the novel, 
>>which is 1536 pages in the Penguin edition and reputed to be one of 
>>the longest novels in the English language, perhaps _the_ 
>>longest.  I haven't read it and I'm not going to, as I gather it 
>>gets quite tiresome.
>>
>>But the film, with the action left in and much of the moralizing 
>>stripped out, is another story.


I saw this when first out and was disappointed in the costumes. No 
chemises!!! Corsets on bare skin. Even Hogarth's prostitutes wore 
chemises. No-one professing to be a lady, or even of the class of 
Clarissa, would have gone without a corset. I don't remember Sean 
Bean at all, and I am a huge fan. So you can tell what sort of an 
impression it made on me.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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In a message dated 8/10/2005 11:56:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

But the  film, with the action left in and much of the moralizing 
stripped out, is  another story.



Yeah....but how's the costuming?
 
I ask because I remember seeing either "Clarissa".....or the other one,  
"Pamela", I think they've done both.... on the tube years ago and the  costumes 
looked pulled and directionless, meaning, every once in a while  something kinda 
nice would show up.
Remember "Dangerous Liaisons"? Everybody looked GREAT [by which I mean  
perfectly right...with style]! Even the servants and destitute peasants. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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In a message dated 8/11/2005 12:37:28 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
thebruce@ihug.co.nz writes:

Sean  Bean in pantaloons.. what else could you want;)



Now that could be worth it. Get him outta all that mail and leather for a  
while.
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <15a.565b7c90.302cb161@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 16:01:10 +0200
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Hi,
Wich name do you prefer i call you, should it be AlbertCat, or what?
Remember an old man like me, who also has many difficulties in remembering 
names, would be on no mans land when there is no sig in the 
mail...............


Anyway, you are right, it is long time since we last had something to look 
forwards to, this is a period with no history................
Say after me!
We want historical movies. We want historical movies. We want historical 
movies.
Even better
We want historical accurate movies!
We want historical accurate movies!
...............
....
.
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2005 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"


>
> In a message dated 8/10/2005 11:56:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> fran@lavoltapress.com writes:
>
> But the  film, with the action left in and much of the moralizing
> stripped out, is  another story.
>
>
>
> Yeah....but how's the costuming?
>
> I ask because I remember seeing either "Clarissa".....or the other one,
> "Pamela", I think they've done both.... on the tube years ago and the 
> costumes
> looked pulled and directionless, meaning, every once in a while  something 
> kinda
> nice would show up.
> Remember "Dangerous Liaisons"? Everybody looked GREAT [by which I mean
> perfectly right...with style]! Even the servants and destitute peasants.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Aug 11 10:25:49 2005
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Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 15:25:13 +0100 (BST)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Tales from Green Valley - a reality programme that works!
	(UK)
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Dear list

You may remember our dismay at the soap opera tactics
of TV when producing the 'Pioneer House' series
earlier this year/last year. Many said "why don't they
do a series with archaeologists/historians/etc. who
WANT to do this and know their stuff?" and I agreed.

Someone, somewhere was listening and on Friday 19
August on BBC2 the series 'Tales from Green Valley'
begins - it's a 12 part exploration of life on a farm
in Wales during the reign of James VI in 1620.
Archaeologists and historians spend 12 months living
the life they have studied and so far, no sign of
women out without their headgear or in their
corsets...

Hoping it will be broadcast in the rest of the world
for everyone else,

Katherine


	
	
		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Aug 11 10:36:43 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: greenland groans
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>From: Jen Segrest <jen@verybigdesign.com>
>   I am making a greenland gown, and having neckline problems
>I want a high neck, and a laced chest. So I have it slit from collar
>bone to mid bust...

Which Greenland gown are you making?  Herjolfsnes 43 has an opening like 
that, but I'm not sure it laced.  H.39 does lace, but it doesn't look like 
anything like that deep a cut.  But rteally the only one that (to me) looks 
like it has a high neck is H 63, and it's got lots of buttons.

Marc


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Aug 11 10:37:00 2005
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: silk vendors
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    Thanks, Lauren! Fashion Fabrics was the vendor I'd lost! And they have 
54" Duipioni, which will save me tons of money on this huge project. :-)

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
historical sewing patterns; quality, hand-crafted cooperage; embroidery 
supplies, and more.
www.5rivers.org - info@5rivers.org
519-799-5577 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: greenland groans
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Hi Marc
If you would like to be really accurate, they should not be called Greenland 
Gowns but Nordboer Gowns.
Nordboer came to Greenland in medieval times from Scandinavia, but suddently 
they dissapeared.
I think they were murdered by the eskimoes................
No tresspass here...............
Bjarne



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2005 4:35 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: greenland groans


> >From: Jen Segrest <jen@verybigdesign.com>
>>   I am making a greenland gown, and having neckline problems
>>I want a high neck, and a laced chest. So I have it slit from collar
>>bone to mid bust...
>
> Which Greenland gown are you making?  Herjolfsnes 43 has an opening like 
> that, but I'm not sure it laced.  H.39 does lace, but it doesn't look like 
> anything like that deep a cut.  But rteally the only one that (to me) 
> looks like it has a high neck is H 63, and it's got lots of buttons.
>
> Marc
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Norse clothing embellishment
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Greetings all. I need some help. I need to find pictures of Norse
clothing embellishment. Might anyone have some good websites to
recommend?

Thanks!

Arlys
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Norse clothing embellishment
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Hi,
No embellishment, just clothing for warmth

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: <Cley@juno.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2005 4:54 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Norse clothing embellishment


> Greetings all. I need some help. I need to find pictures of Norse
> clothing embellishment. Might anyone have some good websites to
> recommend?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Arlys
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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http://www.cs.vassar.edu/%7ecapriest/vikembroid.html

>From: Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>CC: Cley@juno.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Norse clothing embellishment
>Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 07:54:57 -0700
>
>Greetings all. I need some help. I need to find pictures of Norse
>clothing embellishment. Might anyone have some good websites to
>recommend?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Arlys
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Aug 11 11:52:55 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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Clarissa definitely wears a corset.  You get to see a fair amount of it. 

I thought the costumes were, in general, good; and the settings (country 
houses and so on) were lavish and elegant.  As for 100% accuracy, there 
is no such thing in any repro; but I didn't see anything that damaged 
the film experience for me.   I don't believe that the be-all and 
end-all of every film is the costumes.

"Clarissa" is very, very well done.  There's lots of great visual work. 
Like, in the very beginning Clarissa comes downstairs to hear her 
grandfather's will read.  She's a few minutes late, so when she enters 
you see her whole family ranged in a row, as it were against her, all 
dressed in black and staring at her reprovingly.  It sets the tone of 
their relationship for the whole film. 

And, Lovelace has a friend called Jack whose role is largely to hear 
Lovelace expound his "rake's philosophy."  If Lovelace had made his 
points while they were sitting in a drawing-room, or for that matter all 
at one time, it would have gotten tedious.  But instead you hear 
snatches of it, always when they're doing something masculine and 
violent--shooting birds out of the sky or having an aggressive fencing 
practice.

The dialog is excellent, with great nuances.  For example, Clarissa 
early on drops her glove in a garden and Lovelace hands it back to her, 
saying "Yours, I believe?"  Later, her brother slaps Lovelace in the 
face with  his glove, then throws it at him, and Lovelace hands it back 
the same way and responds in the same tone, "Yours, I believe?"

It's a fantastic film. I don't understand why BBC waited over ten years 
to put it on DVD.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>
>
> I saw this when first out and was disappointed in the costumes. No 
> chemises!!! Corsets on bare skin. Even Hogarth's prostitutes wore 
> chemises. No-one professing to be a lady, or even of the class of 
> Clarissa, would have gone without a corset. I don't remember Sean Bean 
> at all, and I am a huge fan. So you can tell what sort of an 
> impression it made on me.
>
> Suzi
>
>
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Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 17:23:21 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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At 16:51 11/08/2005, you wrote:
>Clarissa definitely wears a corset.  You get to see a fair amount of it.


I said that Clarissa does not wear a chemise under her corset - I did 
not say that she did not wear a corset. As  costumer, trying to 
persuade customers to wear the proper underclothes, this sort of 
thing undermines what I say and irritates me to heck!

Suzi, making an 18th century chemise to be worn with an 18th century 
corset and wedding dress.


>
>I thought the costumes were, in general, good; and the settings 
>(country houses and so on) were lavish and elegant.  As for 100% 
>accuracy, there is no such thing in any repro; but I didn't see 
>anything that damaged the film experience for me.   I don't believe 
>that the be-all and end-all of every film is the costumes.
>
>"Clarissa" is very, very well done.  There's lots of great visual 
>work. Like, in the very beginning Clarissa comes downstairs to hear 
>her grandfather's will read.  She's a few minutes late, so when she 
>enters you see her whole family ranged in a row, as it were against 
>her, all dressed in black and staring at her reprovingly.  It sets 
>the tone of their relationship for the whole film.
>And, Lovelace has a friend called Jack whose role is largely to hear 
>Lovelace expound his "rake's philosophy."  If Lovelace had made his 
>points while they were sitting in a drawing-room, or for that matter 
>all at one time, it would have gotten tedious.  But instead you hear 
>snatches of it, always when they're doing something masculine and 
>violent--shooting birds out of the sky or having an aggressive 
>fencing practice.
>
>The dialog is excellent, with great nuances.  For example, Clarissa 
>early on drops her glove in a garden and Lovelace hands it back to 
>her, saying "Yours, I believe?"  Later, her brother slaps Lovelace 
>in the face with  his glove, then throws it at him, and Lovelace 
>hands it back the same way and responds in the same tone, "Yours, I believe?"
>
>It's a fantastic film. I don't understand why BBC waited over ten 
>years to put it on DVD.
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>>
>>
>>I saw this when first out and was disappointed in the costumes. No 
>>chemises!!! Corsets on bare skin. Even Hogarth's prostitutes wore 
>>chemises. No-one professing to be a lady, or even of the class of 
>>Clarissa, would have gone without a corset. I don't remember Sean 
>>Bean at all, and I am a huge fan. So you can tell what sort of an 
>>impression it made on me.
>>
>>Suzi


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I haven't seen the film, but I actually do know someone who read the whole
book. She liked it.

Gail Finke


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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>
> I said that Clarissa does not wear a chemise under her corset - I did 
> not say that she did not wear a corset. As  costumer, trying to 
> persuade customers to wear the proper underclothes, this sort of thing 
> undermines what I say and irritates me to heck!


They're making a film as entertainment, not a documentary on how to 
layer 18th-century clothing.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>
> Suzi, making an 18th century chemise to be worn with an 18th century 
> corset and wedding dress.
>
>
>>
>> I thought the costumes were, in general, good; and the settings 
>> (country houses and so on) were lavish and elegant.  As for 100% 
>> accuracy, there is no such thing in any repro; but I didn't see 
>> anything that damaged the film experience for me.   I don't believe 
>> that the be-all and end-all of every film is the costumes.
>>
>> "Clarissa" is very, very well done.  There's lots of great visual 
>> work. Like, in the very beginning Clarissa comes downstairs to hear 
>> her grandfather's will read.  She's a few minutes late, so when she 
>> enters you see her whole family ranged in a row, as it were against 
>> her, all dressed in black and staring at her reprovingly.  It sets 
>> the tone of their relationship for the whole film.
>> And, Lovelace has a friend called Jack whose role is largely to hear 
>> Lovelace expound his "rake's philosophy."  If Lovelace had made his 
>> points while they were sitting in a drawing-room, or for that matter 
>> all at one time, it would have gotten tedious.  But instead you hear 
>> snatches of it, always when they're doing something masculine and 
>> violent--shooting birds out of the sky or having an aggressive 
>> fencing practice.
>>
>> The dialog is excellent, with great nuances.  For example, Clarissa 
>> early on drops her glove in a garden and Lovelace hands it back to 
>> her, saying "Yours, I believe?"  Later, her brother slaps Lovelace in 
>> the face with  his glove, then throws it at him, and Lovelace hands 
>> it back the same way and responds in the same tone, "Yours, I believe?"
>>
>> It's a fantastic film. I don't understand why BBC waited over ten 
>> years to put it on DVD.
>>
>> Fran
>> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I saw this when first out and was disappointed in the costumes. No 
>>> chemises!!! Corsets on bare skin. Even Hogarth's prostitutes wore 
>>> chemises. No-one professing to be a lady, or even of the class of 
>>> Clarissa, would have gone without a corset. I don't remember Sean 
>>> Bean at all, and I am a huge fan. So you can tell what sort of an 
>>> impression it made on me.
>>>
>>> Suzi
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
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From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I think it was just a slip of the finger...earlier in your post you said "chemise," but then you said:  "No-one professing to be a lady, or even of the class of 
>>Clarissa, would have gone without a corset."
 
I think you probably meant to write "would have gone w/o a chemise" -- hence the confusion.
 
KP


Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
At 16:51 11/08/2005, you wrote:
>Clarissa definitely wears a corset. You get to see a fair amount of it.


I said that Clarissa does not wear a chemise under her corset - I did 
not say that she did not wear a corset. As costumer, trying to 
persuade customers to wear the proper underclothes, this sort of 
thing undermines what I say and irritates me to heck!

Suzi, making an 18th century chemise to be worn with an 18th century 
corset and wedding dress.


>
>I thought the costumes were, in general, good; and the settings 
>(country houses and so on) were lavish and elegant. As for 100% 
>accuracy, there is no such thing in any repro; but I didn't see 
>anything that damaged the film experience for me. I don't believe 
>that the be-all and end-all of every film is the costumes.
>
>"Clarissa" is very, very well done. There's lots of great visual 
>work. Like, in the very beginning Clarissa comes downstairs to hear 
>her grandfather's will read. She's a few minutes late, so when she 
>enters you see her whole family ranged in a row, as it were against 
>her, all dressed in black and staring at her reprovingly. It sets 
>the tone of their relationship for the whole film.
>And, Lovelace has a friend called Jack whose role is largely to hear 
>Lovelace expound his "rake's philosophy." If Lovelace had made his 
>points while they were sitting in a drawing-room, or for that matter 
>all at one time, it would have gotten tedious. But instead you hear 
>snatches of it, always when they're doing something masculine and 
>violent--shooting birds out of the sky or having an aggressive 
>fencing practice.
>
>The dialog is excellent, with great nuances. For example, Clarissa 
>early on drops her glove in a garden and Lovelace hands it back to 
>her, saying "Yours, I believe?" Later, her brother slaps Lovelace 
>in the face with his glove, then throws it at him, and Lovelace 
>hands it back the same way and responds in the same tone, "Yours, I believe?"
>
>It's a fantastic film. I don't understand why BBC waited over ten 
>years to put it on DVD.
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>>
>>
>>I saw this when first out and was disappointed in the costumes. No 
>>chemises!!! Corsets on bare skin. Even Hogarth's prostitutes wore 
>>chemises. No-one professing to be a lady, or even of the class of 
>>Clarissa, would have gone without a corset. I don't remember Sean 
>>Bean at all, and I am a huge fan. So you can tell what sort of an 
>>impression it made on me.
>>
>>Suzi


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Encouraging--did she read the full or the abridged (a mere 700 pages) 
edition?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>I haven't seen the film, but I actually do know someone who read the whole
>book. She liked it.
>
>Gail Finke
>
>
>  
>
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] KWCS Update
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I don't know if any of the autocrats are on this list but since I
haven't seen this posted yet:

The registration fee for KWC/RS has changed, prices have been lowered. 
Also, the feast has been canceled.  Please check the website for
updates:  http://www.dunard.org/KnownWorldCostuming/Index.htm 

They also still have some openings for classes so if you have been
thinking about volunteering, now would be a good time :).

For the non-SCA folks; this is an SCA sponsored Costume Symposium here
in the states in October.  While it is an SCA event, anyone interested
in costuming is welcome to attend.

Catherine
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From: Trephina la Broderesse <trephina@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Paintings in Nat'l Maritime Museum in Greenwich
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Greetings,

I usually just lurk, but thought I'd share another source of art I
just found.  Among the maritime art in Greenwich are beautiful
portraits that can be explored by time period as well as artist and
subject:

www.nmm.ac.uk/mag/pages/mnuExplore/Explore.cfm

There was a painting of Elizabeth I in a black gown loaded with pearls
and jewels in the 1551-1600 selection that I'd never seen before. 
Click on the paintings for an enlarged view.

Enjoy!
Trephina

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Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 09:39:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] The Aristocrats
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Hey there,

Anybody seen "The Aristocrats"?  I bought it sight unseen from a BBC
catalog and really enjoyed it.  It is set during the 1700's and is about
the Duke of Richmond's 4 daughters.

I really enjoyed the story and the costumes were pretty good (as you would
expect from the BBC).  Unfortunately it only came on VHS when I bought it
but it was very enjoyable.  I give it a "thumbs up"!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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BTW, I should say it's not the novel's sheer length that tends to put 
off modern readers, but the length at which certain themes are 
expounded.  Clarissa is moral, virtuous, religious, etc.  Throughout the 
story, almost everybody persecutes her--her family, Lovelace, and 
others.  I gather in the book (which is in letter form), Clarissa writes 
many, many letters about how virtuous and persecuted she is and 
bewailing her fate.  Long before the end, modern readers are going, 
"Jeez, just get off your duff and _do_ something instead of whining 
about it for hundreds of pages!"

The film strips most of that out.  Clarissa is still a bit insufferable 
and overly passive (in fact self-destructive IMO).  But the action is so 
compressed you can understand why she didn't have time to think a way 
out of her troubles.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Lavolta Press wrote:

> Encouraging--did she read the full or the abridged (a mere 700 pages) 
> edition?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
>
>> I haven't seen the film, but I actually do know someone who read the 
>> whole
>> book. She liked it.
>>
>> Gail Finke
>>
>>
>>  
>>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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At 17:29 11/08/2005, you wrote:


>>I said that Clarissa does not wear a chemise under her corset - I 
>>did not say that she did not wear a corset. As  costumer, trying to 
>>persuade customers to wear the proper underclothes, this sort of 
>>thing undermines what I say and irritates me to heck!
>
>
>They're making a film as entertainment, not a documentary on how to 
>layer 18th-century clothing.


You try explaining that to someone who doesn't know about costume 
history, and wants "the dress that so and so wears" in a particular 
film or TV series. Fran, you enjoy films your way - I am entitled to 
dislike things for my reasons, and state those reasons on an open 
list. After all we are all entitled to our own opinions - I was 
simply stating mine.You don't have to snap.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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At 17:31 11/08/2005, you wrote:
>I think it was just a slip of the finger...earlier in your post you 
>said "chemise," but then you said:  "No-one professing to be a lady, 
>or even of the class of
> >>Clarissa, would have gone without a corset."
>
>I think you probably meant to write "would have gone w/o a chemise" 
>-- hence the confusion.
>
>KP


Thank you - you are absolutely right and I apologise.

Suzi




>I said that Clarissa does not wear a chemise under her corset - I did
>not say that she did not wear a corset. As costumer, trying to
>persuade customers to wear the proper underclothes, this sort of
>thing undermines what I say and irritates me to heck!
>
><huge snip>
>
> >>I saw this when first out and was disappointed in the costumes. No
> >>chemises!!! Corsets on bare skin.



>Even Hogarth's prostitutes wore
> >>chemises. No-one professing to be a lady, or even of the class of
> >>Clarissa, would have gone without a corset.

Mistake - should have read "chemise". Sorry - Suzi





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Subject: [h-cost] Fabric widths website....can anyone help?
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Hi everyone,

I've spend several hours searching for it and now I'm tired, cranky and fed 
up, cause I can't find it any more..... Can anyone help me find a website 
that had a relatively short overview over fabric widths in medieval times, 
with many references to Scandinavian (Icelandic?) sources (Marta Hoffmann?) 
and loom weigths and so on?..... I am giving up, I've been searching for it 
all day, and I was so sure I had it bookmarked! No such luck, as usual...

Thanks for your help guys,

Caithlinn


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Ladies and Gentlemen,
>From my understanding, when there appears on a list multiples from one
email, 98% of the time it is due to computer error, glitch, or virus. When
it is the senders error it is more likely then not an oops of the fingers.
Sue, Lalah was replying to other emails as well as yours. There were at
least two others that made a comment about the multiple letter but I would
say that perhaps yours might have been the one that pushed things over the
edge. This is not saying you are bad, perhaps just bad timing.
Lalah, I understand about the moving. Sorry to hear that it is smaller, it
makes things a little more stressful when you have to figure out what goes
and what stays so that you have room to move around in. Here is wishing for
you a quick and comfortable settling in in your new location.

Everyone is allowed to express their opinions on this list (within reason,
see list rules).
Everyone has one of those days (sometimes weeks :P ).
Everyone has one of those knee jerk reactions once in a while as we all have
those buttons that others accidentally push.
A few do not speak for the many on this list.(except maybe the moderator on
running the list)

Now back to the regularly scheduled costuming program.

De




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Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 13:11:45 -0700
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, GBACGcostumers@yahoogroups.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Muslin at JoAnn Fabrics (not)
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Status: RO

(Sorry for the cross-post. I wanted everyone to know what I've found
out in case it pertains to you.)

Over the next few months, I will need to make the ruffles for Truly
Victorian's Grand Bustle (took the class at Costume College but we
didn't have time to make the ruffles) and make two, maybe three
Victorian petticoats The bolt of muslin I bought a couple of years ago
is finally gone, so I needed to buy more. I decided that getting the
90" or 120" high-quality muslin with my JoAnn's 40% coupon would be
the best use of my time and energies (fewer seams on the ruffles, less
cutting and tearing), so I went to my neighborhood JoAnn's. They had
very little of the 90" muslin and none of the 120" muslin. They had
about 8 yards of the 200 count 90" muslin over three bolts. The
Ron-Lok is disappearing too. When I asked at the cutting table, the
lady said that JoAnn's now has their own label of muslin and will be
selling it exclusively once the "old stuff" is gone. I fingered that
stuff, and it wasn'g good enough for my needs. I bought what I could
of the 200 count stuff and went to the farther away JoAnn's on Sunday.
They had none of the 200 count muslin at all and very little of the
Ron-Lok, and I'm talking the 45" width too! And it wasn't UNbleached,
but it certainly wasn't the usual white bleached color either.

The JoAnn's brand of muslin is fine for making practice clothes
(muslins) and probably fine for flat lining, but I didn't like it for
a whole petticoat, and I certainly wouldn't wear bloomers
(pantilettes, whatever) out of it. Perhaps once the sizing was washed
out of it and it was shrunk down with some really hot water, it would
look better, but I won't buy any of it if it's going to be near skin.

At any rate, if you want good-quality muslin from JoAnn's go NOW. Or
find a new supplier. I was really disappointed because I love the 200
count bleached muslin I have bought there before. And for all I know,
this is old news to most people. As I said, I had my own bolt of
muslin for the past couple of years and I hadn't bought any recently.
I guess I'll go back to Discount Fabrics for bolts again...

I don't hate JoAnn's as many people do. I'm lucky enough to live in a
big city where there are lots of other places to go for the fabrics
that JoAnn's doesn't carry.

LynnD

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS Update
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Catherine Kinsey wrote:

  > For the non-SCA folks; this is an SCA sponsored Costume Symposium here
> in the states in October.  While it is an SCA event, anyone interested
> in costuming is welcome to attend.

Is this a replacement for, or in addition to the local costume event 
normally held in February?


Dawn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Muslin at JoAnn Fabrics (not)
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Lynn Downward wrote:


> 
>  When I asked at the cutting table, the
> lady said that JoAnn's now has their own label of muslin and will be
> selling it exclusively once the "old stuff" is gone. I fingered that
> stuff, and it wasn'g good enough for my needs.

Thanks for the heads up. I've got two 40% off coupons to use, and a 
couple of bolts of muslin sounds like a good idea. I go through one or 
two a year.



Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: going into business
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Wow, Thanks Penny and Suzi! There is some advice that
can apply to any sort of business. 

Annette M
(thinking I ought to find a useful(income generating)
purpose for all the research I am been doing!)

 
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 03:45:06 -0400
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] going into business: (even
> Longer)
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <003d01c59e48$97aba690$6800a8c0@Penny>
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> 
> Your welcome Kim.
> 
> That was a really good point to make.  I recently
> talked to a lady in 
> Gettysburg who has lots of costumes ready made.  You
> would think in 
> Gettysburg, you wouldn't have a problem selling ACW
> ladies' costumes.  But 
> that market's area has so many established costume
> businesses that have they 
> have the market tied up.  This lady does beautiful
> work.  But she is being 
> forced to sell her costumes at below their cost
> because she needs to get 
> back her investment.
> 
> I have a lot of education in marketing and
> merchandising.  So many factors 
> go into play when marketing a product line.  I don't
> know if you are 
> watching the Tommy Hilfiger reality show on CBS,
> called The Cut.  It is 
> really interesting because he is dealing more with
> the business side of 
> design than the creative edge.  Last week the
> challenge was taking 500 
> pieces of TH merchandise and reconstructing it to
> sell on the streets.  One 
> team lost a day of selling, and decided to sell the
> clothing for $5 a piece. 
> The other team had two days of selling and had only
> knocked about $20 off 
> the suggested retail price.  Tommy was very upset
> about the team that priced 
> 
=== message truncated ===




		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Aristocrats
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Greetings--

> Anybody seen "The Aristocrats"?  I bought it sight unseen from a BBC
> catalog and really enjoyed it.  It is set during the 1700's and is about
> the Duke of Richmond's 4 daughters.

When I read the header, I thought you were referring to the 2005 film by the 
same name, which is all about a dirty in-joke told by standup comedians....

:-)

Susan 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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In a message dated 8/11/2005 11:55:28 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

It's a  fantastic film. I don't understand why BBC waited over ten years 
to put it  on DVD.



Your second post made me want to see it more. And I didn't want to poo-poo  
it too much. But you DID compare it to "Dangerous Liaisons", after all.
 
 
And speaking a waiting to put something on DVD....where the hell is "Little  
Dorrit"???
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In a message dated 8/11/2005 12:30:09 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

They're  making a film as entertainment, not a documentary on how to 
layer  18th-century clothing.



C'mon! I'm sure Suzi would have been more OK with an incorrectly cut  chemise 
rather than none. Accuracy or not, a chemise is better than none. They  wore 
chemises in "Quills" and "Sleepy Hollow" fer christ sake!
 
Remember "Queen Margot"? Not a chemise in sight! Ruined the costumes, I  
think. That and the fact each gown was the same pattern in different [fantastic]  
fabrics.
 
 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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I'm not snapping, simply trying to point out that film makers are not 
making films to educate people about historic costuming.  Your customers 
do need to either realize films are not primary sources. Or accept and 
enjoy having something they like that is not "authentic," which is also 
perfectly valid. 

I agree you're entitled to express express your point of view--just as I 
am entitled to express mine.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Suzi Clarke wrote:

>
> You try explaining that to someone who doesn't know about costume 
> history, and wants "the dress that so and so wears" in a particular 
> film or TV series. Fran, you enjoy films your way - I am entitled to 
> dislike things for my reasons, and state those reasons on an open 
> list. After all we are all entitled to our own opinions - I was simply 
> stating mine.You don't have to snap.
>
> Suzi
>
>
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>
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	<6.2.1.2.0.20050810180946.03702ac0@64.87.54.245>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th Century German patterns
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th Century German patterns


> I so could have used that pattern a few years ago. Glad someone finally
> came out with the pattern. Anyone here try it yet?

I haven't tried that one, but I was one of the testers for the Cranach gown
and it was the best pattern I've ever used. And the sizes actually fit the
measurements they say they will fit! Whoda thunk it! Mine is not currently
in wearing condition, as my only problem was the length of the sleeves--I
have short arms (and legs, and everything else about me is short except my
hair..) and the sleeves, though gorgeous, were too long.

Dianne
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Pam Dotson <dotsontwo@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly ot costume fun
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My daughter wants to know where she can find a bunny backpack like yours!
 
Pam Dotson

Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
Tomorrow we will go to a medieval/fantasy fair.
Yeasterday I realized that my cute little bunny backpack didn't have a 
medieval dress!!!!! :-[
So today I searched trough my fabric leftovers and made a cute costume 
for her.
http://www.mystictimes.nl/MBunny/Mb.jpg
http://www.mystictimes.nl/MBunny/Mbb.jpg

Greetings,
Deredere

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---------------------------------
 Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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I think that in terms of plot, filming, etc. "Clarissa" is similar and 
almost equal to "Dangerous Liasions."  The costumes are by no means a 
dead loss, either.  Thing is, they had some points where they wanted to 
show skin . . . so they did.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


>
>
>Your second post made me want to see it more. And I didn't want to poo-poo  
>it too much. But you DID compare it to "Dangerous Liaisons", after all.
> 
> 
>And speaking a waiting to put something on DVD....where the hell is "Little  
>Dorrit"???
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>  
>
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 8:32 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Career Question: Education and going intobusiness:
(Long)


>> While my area is heavy into Renaissance faires, the people who are a part
> of that community are too poor to support a qualified costumer on a full
> time basis. So, now I have to modify my original costuming business goals.


I would love to be a full time professional costumer, but I know my area
would never support it, and eBay is just too iffy--not to mention that you
simply can't get a decent price. So, I am re-thinking my focus, and I think
I am going to go into custom bridal work, with an emphasis on Renaissance
and medieval styles.

Dianne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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Status: RO

As for "Queen Margot," I had more trouble with the improbability of the 
plot. 

When Clarissa is down to her corset there are some points being made 
about eroticism and vulnerability--but that doesn't mean every costume 
in the film is bad.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>
>C'mon! I'm sure Suzi would have been more OK with an incorrectly cut  chemise 
>rather than none. Accuracy or not, a chemise is better than none. They  wore 
>chemises in "Quills" and "Sleepy Hollow" fer christ sake!
> 
>Remember "Queen Margot"? Not a chemise in sight! Ruined the costumes, I  
>think. That and the fact each gown was the same pattern in different [fantastic]  
>fabrics.
> 
> 
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>
>
>  
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] The Aristocrats
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 16:48:20 -0500
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 Actually the title is simply Aristocrats, based on the Stella Tillyard
book on the lives and loves of the four Lennox sisters. The eldest
eloped with Charles Fox, while the youngest, Sarah, came close to
marrying George III(lost out due to political reasons, for the
politically safe German princess Charlotte), married hurriedly elsewhere
under familial pressure, separated, and then had an affair and later
married(happily)below her social class.

Sarah's sins seem to have been: 1)Not snagging King Georgie in the first
place(jilting or being jilted by a king, no less, was not quite
acceptible), 2)Not staying with Husband #1(who was no prize)no matter
what and having a nice quiet affair or affairs on the side, and 3)a
woman who marries or re-marries beneath her socio-economic class was a
serious no-no.

On the other hand, a man of the ton could have dumped an unsatisfactory
wife in a country house and lived as we wished in London or wherever,
had plenty of affairs, and upon said wife's death(should she be so
obliging)married a beautiful nobody, a rich merchant's daughter
or(gasp)an actress, and suffered little if any public censure.

Wish the BBC would do a series on Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire, her
husband, and Lady Elizabeth Foster, the most (in)famous menage a trois
of the 18th century.

Cindy Abel

 
 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Aug 11 18:06:52 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Norse clothing embellishment
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Um,

nope, not quite, Bjarne, there's lots of embellishment in the form of 
embroidery, tablet weaving or the use of fancy fabric as trims (i.e. chinese 
silk). The site of the link mentioned above (Thora Sharptooth) has more info 
on tablet woven decoration as well, not just embroidery. The main problem is 
to determine where it was placed, since not all remains have been found in 
situ or even in connection with a garment/fabric. Most in depth info can be 
found in different journals (Textile History, Costume, various Scandinavian 
publications), Carolyn's website has a very good bibliography for it as 
well. A fine source is Margarete Hald's book "Ancient Danish Textiles from 
Bogs and Burials" with quite a bit of info on the Mammen find (also: M. 
Iversen, "Mammen, grav kunst og samfund i vikingetid" but that's hard to 
find) and others.

Another site with some good info about a specific find (Oseberg) can be 
found here: 
http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Oseberg/textiles/TEXTILE.HTM 
(scroll down to embroideries).

Hope this helps,

Caithlinn

>Hi,
>No embellishment, just clothing for warmth

>Bjarne


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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Status: RO

 

It is pretty disappointing to be really getting into any film or TV
dramatization and then be jolted by a costuming faux pas. However, it is
fun as well and things like corsets or stays worn without a chemise or
shift are kind of a giveaway to the aesthetics of the time the film/TV
show was made.

And of course, you have the director's vision of how things should look,
especially to the 99%+ of the audience that doesn't know or care about
historical accuracy.

During the time of the Hays Code in Hollywood, costume designers doing
medieval-Rennaisance set films had to eliminate codpieces and put the
poor male actors in tights. Costumes for both men and women set in any
era had to sacrifice cut and fit, to not only the then current
fashionable aesthetic, but to the making sure that ladies necklines
didn't plunge below a certain Hays' approved point. Many poor male
actors had to have their chests shaved as smooth as a baby's bottom. And
forget being accurate about the male attire at the court of Richard II
if you were doing that Shakespeare play. Well, maybe those long,
pointed-toed shoes...but no too-short to be decent jerkins or
houppelands! Historically-set films during the time of the Hays' Code
are a hoot to watch.

Factor in costume designers having to work with budgets that are a small
fraction of a total film's cost, actors that are more worried about
their image than being historically accurate,(Bette Davis when doing
Elizabeth I a second time being the rare exception) and having to use
fabrics and/or rented costumes that are available and it is a wonder
anything halfway historically accurate ended up on screen.

Cindy Abel




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] For those who like "Dangerous Liasions"
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At 22:41 11/08/2005, you wrote:
>I'm not snapping, simply trying to point out that film makers are 
>not making films to educate people about historic costuming.

I am well aware of this - after all I do work for the industry here 
in England.

>Your customers do need to either realize films are not primary sources.

But when films and TV are promoted as "authentic", and many of them 
are, how can they realize that what they are being shown is 
incorrect? They are not immersed in costume detail as we are. My 
private customers are often ordinary people who happen to like to 
wear the clothes that are appropriate for the period they are 
involved with. Many of them do historical dance, but do not research 
the clothing. For example, I was recently asked to copy a dress worn 
by Gwyneth Paltrow in "Shakespeare in Love" as it was what the lady 
liked and would be authentic, as it was in a film.  She belongs to a 
dance group specialising in Elizabethan/Tudor dances. The rest of her 
group looked at portraits of the period and chose from them, but this 
charming lady didn't know. We solved her problem by finding a woodcut 
which she liked, and are working from that.

>Or accept and enjoy having something they like that is not 
>"authentic," which is also perfectly valid.

That is a different thing, and one I try not to get involved with, as 
it doesn't suit the way I work - purely a personal decision. I am 
really picky, and that is why incorrect clothing irritates me so much 
- it is so easy to get it right. There are books a-plenty - heaven 
knows I have worked on five with a well known costume maker, and 
written three myself, and you publish many for use by the general 
public and film/TV designers alike, Fran.

Anyway that's my hobby horse, and I'm getting saddle sore, so I'll 
climb down now.

Suzi 


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> Sheridan,
> Thanks for the information - I'll have to snoop around my area, I don't
think that we have a strong Indian population though.
>
> Do you know of any good sources of authentic Indian patterns? I know
Folkwear has a few, but didn't know if there was anything else out there.
I've been trying to find a pattern for an authentic wedding sari suit; I
don't know if there is an official name for it.
>
> Thanks,
> Wendi

It might just take a bit of looking, there were several Bollywood movies
shot in and around Florida, and usually these movies are shot wherever there
is a fair sized Indian population, but you never know. :-)

For the wedding suit, were you looking for Sari or for Lhenga (sp?) or for
Salwar Kameez?
The only tricky part of a Sari is the fit of the Choli, and the slip for
under the sari itself is usually a very simple drawstring A-line skirt.
Lhenga are the blouse/skirt/dupatta (shawl) combination, also fairly easy to
put together if you find the right fabric, and Salwar Kameez (pants and
tunic) can be pretty easy to throw together as well, if you are familiar
with rectangular construction.

Folkwears patterns are just fine for modern wear, I wouldn't use them for
historical purposes.

I have yet to find a pattern (online or otherwise) for a modern Choli that
isn't a North American Tribal Dance pattern. The real ones are either made
by somebodies Auntie, someone who specializes in 'suits', or 'ready to wear'
from a garment factory in India. Most of the Indian folks I knew all had
theirs made by a family member or family friend, no patterns, all made up by
hand and custom to each person.

Not especially helpful, I know, but it's all I have managed to come up with
in the past couple of years. :-)

Anahita (sorry, I cant remember the spelling of your new name!) if you are
still lurking on this list, have you stumbled on anything like this?

Sheridan


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At 02:47 PM 8/11/2005, you wrote:
>So, I am re-thinking my focus, and I think
>I am going to go into custom bridal work, with an emphasis on Renaissance
>and medieval styles.
>
>Dianne


That's what I've been thinking about as well, so I am looking into what it 
takes to do bridal. I've done a few wedding outfits here and there, but I 
know from former bridal gown designers in my area that the headaches may 
outweigh the money.

But for now, while I deal with pregnancy issues, estate probate and all, I 
am concentrating on smaller items I can make and sell easily.

Kimiko


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>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>If you would like to be really accurate, they should not be called 
>Greenland Gowns but
>Nordboer Gowns.  Nordboer came to Greenland in medieval times from 
>Scandinavia, but
>suddently they dissapeared.  I think they were murdered by the 
>eskimoes................
>No tresspass here...............

I think the jury's still out on what finally happened to them in the end.  
My favorite speculation is that the 15th century survivors were rounded up 
by the English and sold off as slaves in Bristol, but I think that's a lot 
less likely than they wre finally unwilling or unable to adapt to the 
changing climate conditions and just starved to death.

You may be correct, of course, in the term Nordboer, although really 
"Greenland" is accurate as well since that's what the area was called then 
as well (and the inhabitants "Greenlanders"), and the majority of English 
speakers have never heard the term Nordboer ("North-dweller").   So for the 
sake of least confusion at this point, at least in English, I think I'll 
stick with Greenland/Greenlander :)

Marc


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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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At 17:37 11/08/2005, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>I usually just lurk, but thought I'd share another source of art I
>just found.  Among the maritime art in Greenwich are beautiful
>portraits that can be explored by time period as well as artist and
>subject:
>
>www.nmm.ac.uk/mag/pages/mnuExplore/Explore.cfm
>
>There was a painting of Elizabeth I in a black gown loaded with pearls
>and jewels in the 1551-1600 selection that I'd never seen before.
>Click on the paintings for an enlarged view.


I've been to that museum loads of times and didn't know they had a 
web site - thank you for that.

http://www.nmm.ac.uk/mag/pages/mnuExplore/ViewLargeImage.cfm?ID=BHC2750&letter=F

This is my favourite - does anybody else think he might be wearing a banyan?

Suzi


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Wow!  I was at my local Joanne's (Everett, Washington USA) and they had *whole* bolts of the 90" and 120".

Where are you located?


> (Sorry for the cross-post. I wanted everyone to know what I've found
> out in case it pertains to you.)
> 
> Over the next few months, I will need to make the ruffles for Truly
> Victorian's Grand Bustle (took the class at Costume College but we
> didn't have time to make the ruffles) and make two, maybe three
> Victorian petticoats The bolt of muslin I bought a couple of years ago
> is finally gone, so I needed to buy more. I decided that getting the
> 90" or 120" high-quality muslin with my JoAnn's 40% coupon would be
> the best use of my time and energies (fewer seams on the ruffles, less
> cutting and tearing), so I went to my neighborhood JoAnn's. They had
> very little of the 90" muslin and none of the 120" muslin. They had
> about 8 yards of the 200 count 90" muslin over three bolts. The
> Ron-Lok is disappearing too. When I asked at the cutting table, the
> lady said that JoAnn's now has their own label of muslin and will be
> selling it exclusively once the "old stuff" is gone. I fingered that
> stuff, and it wasn'g good enough for my needs. I bought what I could
> of the 200 count stuff and went to the farther away JoAnn's on Sunday.
> They had none of the 200 count muslin at all and very little of the
> Ron-Lok, and I'm talking the 45" width too! And it wasn't UNbleached,
> but it certainly wasn't the usual white bleached color either.
> 
> The JoAnn's brand of muslin is fine for making practice clothes
> (muslins) and probably fine for flat lining, but I didn't like it for
> a whole petticoat, and I certainly wouldn't wear bloomers
> (pantilettes, whatever) out of it. Perhaps once the sizing was washed
> out of it and it was shrunk down with some really hot water, it would
> look better, but I won't buy any of it if it's going to be near skin.
> 
> At any rate, if you want good-quality muslin from JoAnn's go NOW. Or
> find a new supplier. I was really disappointed because I love the 200
> count bleached muslin I have bought there before. And for all I know,
> this is old news to most people. As I said, I had my own bolt of
> muslin for the past couple of years and I hadn't bought any recently.
> I guess I'll go back to Discount Fabrics for bolts again...
> 
> I don't hate JoAnn's as many people do. I'm lucky enough to live in a
> big city where there are lots of other places to go for the fabrics
> that JoAnn's doesn't carry.
> 
> LynnD
> 
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This isn't authentic historical costuming. But anyone who wants to cash 
in on the "boho" fashion trend could probably do rather nicely for a 
year or so making bell-sleeved and/or ruffly blouses, gypsy skirts, and 
Victorian- and Edwardian-inspired coats and jackets.  And other 
historic-inspired items according to their fancy.  Probably 
ready-to-wear rather than custom.

I would never make custom costumes for anyone but myself and my 
husband.  IMO, if you make custom clothing (as opposed to ready-made) 
your job is to make what the customer wants, if feasible within the 
constraints of their schedule and budget.  I hate hiring someone to do 
something for me and then having them insist on doing it to their specs, 
not mine.  On the other hand, I don't want to work to anyone's specs but 
my own.

End result--I wouldn't touch a custom costuming career with a ten-foot pole.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Fran wrote:

> Encouraging--did she read the full or the abridged (a mere 700 pages)
> edition?

The whole thing, baby!!

Gail Finke


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Aug 11 22:16:33 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: many OT was: shapes of German Headdress
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Actually, it was more like me making an assumption (pre-caffeine, etc.), 
and shooting my mouth off, which I really, really try not to do. 
Stressful week or sane week, it's not polite and certainly not 
constructive.  After I'd sent Lalah my *private* note, I did indeed 
notice that it was actually four different responses to the same 
message, as if her computer had stuttered.  And for that mistake, I 
apologize.  My response, however, *was* private, and was *meant* to be 
private, so I don't feel at all bad or responsible about anyone's 
*public* edginess.  If someone (anyone) has a problem with me, please 
don't bother the list with it.  As we all pretty much know, it's at the 
very least bad netiquette.  And boring for those not directly involved.
--Sue, going off to do something constructive now (like sit on the front 
porch and work on my next costuming project...it's way too darned hot in 
my apartment to pop in a costume video, although I'm in the mood now, 
with all the posts about _Dangerous Liaisons_ ;o)

otsisto wrote:

> Ladies and Gentlemen,
>>From my understanding, when there appears on a list multiples from one
> email, 98% of the time it is due to computer error, glitch, or virus. When
> it is the senders error it is more likely then not an oops of the fingers.
> Sue, Lalah was replying to other emails as well as yours. There were at
> least two others that made a comment about the multiple letter but I would
> say that perhaps yours might have been the one that pushed things over the
> edge. This is not saying you are bad, perhaps just bad timing.


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Wow, I always thought I was breaking records by reading _War and Peace_ 
and _Remembrance of Things Past_.  Still can't say I'm up for over 1,500 
pages of passive whining, though.  Life's too short to read the thing, 
entire or abridged,  just to figure out a couple minor mysteries in the 
film.  The first two are great books.

BTW, if  anyone is up for excellent Regency-inspired modern fantasies, try:

_Jonathan Norrell & Mr. Strange_ (Susanna Clarke; in the style of Jane 
Austen)
and
_Lord Byron's Novel:  The Evening Land_ (John Crowley; in the style of a 
Byron being Gothick)

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>Fran wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Encouraging--did she read the full or the abridged (a mere 700 pages)
>>edition?
>>    
>>
>
>The whole thing, baby!!
>
>Gail Finke
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>  
>
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I purchased one of the cotton cholis and took it apart for a pattern. 

Too bad there isn't someone near me with a scanner who can take pics of the pieces and help graph them out.

My choli seperated into 7 pieces - (2) fronts, (1) back, (2) sleeves, (2) front facing pieces

Katheryne

------------------------------
> Sheridan,
> Do you know of any good sources of authentic Indian patterns? I know
Folkwear has a few, but didn't know if there was anything else out there.
I've been trying to find a pattern for an authentic wedding sari suit; I
don't know if there is an official name for it.
>> Wendi

For the wedding suit, were you looking for Sari or for Lhenga (sp?) or for
Salwar Kameez?
The only tricky part of a Sari is the fit of the Choli, and the slip for
under the sari itself is usually a very simple drawstring A-line skirt.

Folkwears patterns are just fine for modern wear, I wouldn't use them for
historical purposes.

I have yet to find a pattern (online or otherwise) for a modern Choli that
isn't a North American Tribal Dance pattern. The real ones are either made
by somebodies Auntie, someone who specializes in 'suits', or 'ready to wear'
from a garment factory in India. Most of the Indian folks I knew all had
theirs made by a family member or family friend, no patterns, all made up by
hand and custom to each person.

Not especially helpful, I know, but it's all I have managed to come up with
in the past couple of years. :-)

Sheridan
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This sounds interesting and fun! Is it really just $12
- $15 for the whole weekend - plus what ever extra
fees might be incurred by a particular class? 

Of course, just getting there is the big expense these
days, isn't it?

Annette M

Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 11:36:06 -0500
From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
Subject: [h-cost] KWCS Update

I don't know if any of the autocrats are on this list
but since I
haven't seen this posted yet:

The registration fee for KWC/RS has changed, prices
have been lowered. 
Also, the feast has been canceled.  Please check the
website for
updates: 
http://www.dunard.org/KnownWorldCostuming/Index.htm 

They also still have some openings for classes so if
you have been
thinking about volunteering, now would be a good time
:).

For the non-SCA folks; this is an SCA sponsored
Costume Symposium here
in the states in October.  While it is an SCA event,
anyone interested
in costuming is welcome to attend.

Catherine



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>I have yet to find a pattern (online or otherwise)

Folkwear has a choli pattern.  Is this the wrong shape?  It looks like the 
ones the Indian women in Northern CA wear around town.

>  for a modern Choli that

I use a t-shirt for a choli.  Not traditional, but some parts of my body 
look better covered up, and a real choli doesn't do it...


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Costumes of 1898, England - more books?
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O.K. I have the chance of a very large commission for costumes of 
c.1898. I already have a huge library, but wondered if there was 
anything era specific that anyone would care to recommend. I already 
have the following books on my shelves, along with many, many others, 
and I do not wish to spend money on anything unless it gives me 
information I don't already have. I do not want books on Victorian 
sewing techniques, as I will not be necessarily be copying these.

Jean Hunnisett, 1880-1909
Janet Arnold 1860-1930
Cut of Women's Clothes
Cut of Men's Clothes
Several Shep reprints of tailoring in the late Victorian era, male and female
Costume in Detail
Corsets and Crinolines
Kristina Harris (the book on late Victorian fashion)
Harpers Bazaar
Cunnington - Englishwoman's Clothing of the 19th century.
Fashion through Fashion Plates
Hand coloured fashion Plates (Vyvyan Holland)
My own fashion plates

Any suggestions? I am very specifically looking for fashion as worn in England.

suzi 
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Yes, it's just $12 - $15 for the whole weekend. It's great that they found a 
place that is so inexpensive!

Wish I could go...

kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kahlara" <kahlara@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2005 1:03 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 520


> This sounds interesting and fun! Is it really just $12
> - $15 for the whole weekend - plus what ever extra
> fees might be incurred by a particular class?
>
> Of course, just getting there is the big expense these
> days, isn't it?
>
> Annette M
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 11:36:06 -0500
> From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
> Subject: [h-cost] KWCS Update
>
> I don't know if any of the autocrats are on this list
> but since I
> haven't seen this posted yet:
>
> The registration fee for KWC/RS has changed, prices
> have been lowered.
> Also, the feast has been canceled.  Please check the
> website for
> updates:
> http://www.dunard.org/KnownWorldCostuming/Index.htm
>
> They also still have some openings for classes so if
> you have been
> thinking about volunteering, now would be a good time
> :).
>
> For the non-SCA folks; this is an SCA sponsored
> Costume Symposium here
> in the states in October.  While it is an SCA event,
> anyone interested
> in costuming is welcome to attend.
>
> Catherine
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: KWCS Update
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  > For the non-SCA folks; this is an SCA sponsored Costume Symposium
here
> in the states in October.  While it is an SCA event, anyone
interested
> in costuming is welcome to attend.

Is this a replacement for, or in addition to the local costume event 
normally held in February?

Dawn
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
The February event is local (this year was the 20th).  The one in
October is 'Known World' and travels around the country with a different
group sponsoring it each year.  I think the continued succes of our
local event helped get it started.

And yes, the registration fee is for the whole event.  If you can get
there, the site has some fairly inexpensive accomodations available
(dorm rooms).

Catherine
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Indian Fabric Stores
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I am interested in both the Sari/Saree and the Lehenga; I'm sure I'll get around to the Salwar Kameez (they look so comfortable). 

Folkwear doesn't really have a pattern for a Sari, it is simply a really long rectangle? I'm such a visual person that I was hoping there was a simple step-by-step website out there.

There is a local Indian market, I'll run in there and see if they know where a local fabric store is located that carries Indian fabric - it's so beautiful!
Thanks,
Wendi

> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 19:21:43 -0400
> From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Indian fabric stores
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <011301c59ecb$703b2080$0a02a8c0@nodomainset.bellcanada>
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> > Sheridan,
> > Thanks for the information - I'll have to snoop around my area, I don't
> think that we have a strong Indian population though.
> >
> > Do you know of any good sources of authentic Indian patterns? I know
> Folkwear has a few, but didn't know if there was anything else out there.
> I've been trying to find a pattern for an authentic wedding sari suit; I
> don't know if there is an official name for it.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Wendi
> 
> It might just take a bit of looking, there were several Bollywood movies
> shot in and around Florida, and usually these movies are shot wherever there
> is a fair sized Indian population, but you never know. :-)
> 
> For the wedding suit, were you looking for Sari or for Lhenga (sp?) or for
> Salwar Kameez?
> The only tricky part of a Sari is the fit of the Choli, and the slip for
> under the sari itself is usually a very simple drawstring A-line skirt.
> Lhenga are the blouse/skirt/dupatta (shawl) combination, also fairly easy to
> put together if you find the right fabric, and Salwar Kameez (pants and
> tunic) can be pretty easy to throw together as well, if you are familiar
> with rectangular construction.
> 
> Folkwears patterns are just fine for modern wear, I wouldn't use them for
> historical purposes.
> 
> I have yet to find a pattern (online or otherwise) for a modern Choli that
> isn't a North American Tribal Dance pattern. The real ones are either made
> by somebodies Auntie, someone who specializes in 'suits', or 'ready to wear'
> from a garment factory in India. Most of the Indian folks I knew all had
> theirs made by a family member or family friend, no patterns, all made up by
> hand and custom to each person.
> 
> Not especially helpful, I know, but it's all I have managed to come up with
> in the past couple of years. :-)
> 
> Anahita (sorry, I cant remember the spelling of your new name!) if you are
> still lurking on this list, have you stumbled on anything like this?
> 
> Sheridan
> 


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Katheryne,
Where are you located? Could you possible use a scanner at a local Kinko's or something? Does your library have a scanner?

I'll look around at some thrift stores, sometimes I find treasures there! Maybe I can find a choli and dismantle it too!

Thanks,
Wendi
> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 23:36:10 -0400
> From: purplkat@optonline.net
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Indian fabric stores
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> 
> I purchased one of the cotton cholis and took it apart for a pattern. 
> 
> Too bad there isn't someone near me with a scanner who can take pics of the pieces and help graph them out.
> 
> My choli seperated into 7 pieces - (2) fronts, (1) back, (2) sleeves, (2) front facing pieces
> 
> Katheryne
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: KWCS Update
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Does anyone know when it next will be in the East Coast? 

I live in NJ and it was a choice of either Pennsic or KWCS.. (SIGH) maybe next year.

Katheryne

----- Original Message -----
From: Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
> The February event is local (this year was the 20th).  The one in October is 'Known World' and travels around the country with a different group sponsoring it each year.  I think the continued succes of our local event helped get it started.
> Catherine
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Here are some sites that I have book marked. I haven't dealt with any of
them as I live in Chicago and there's a sizeable Indian/Pakistani
population and a really good Indian shopping district. 


http://www.salwarkameezindia.com/

http://www.shalincraft-india.com/

http://www.homeindia.com/
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From: Catrijn vanden Westhende <catrijn@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: KWCS Update
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On 8/12/05, purplkat@optonline.net <purplkat@optonline.net> wrote:
> Does anyone know when it next will be in the East Coast?
> 
> I live in NJ and it was a choice of either Pennsic or KWCS.. (SIGH) maybe next year.
> 
> Katheryne
> 

I'd love to hear otherwise (so I can plan ;-) ), but I doubt the
location for next year has been announced yet (perhaps not even
decided at this point).  Last year was in eastern Ohio, and I didn't
hear about this year's location until after that was over.  They may
announce it one year ahead of time, at the end of the current event? 
All that is a long way to say that I don't know, and can't find _any_
information about a KWCS after this one.

As to someone else's question, although the kingdom calendar doesn't
extend that far into the future, Calontir Clothier's Symposium is
expected to be held in the beginning of February as usual.  Some local
people are already starting to produce new outfits for the walk
through history, so I'd be extremely surprised if it wasn't happening.

Catrijn

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In a message dated 8/11/2005 11:37:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
purplkat@optonline.net writes:

I have  yet to find a pattern (online or otherwise) for a modern Choli 


Me too. I was looking at "The Mahabharata" and the cholis seem to be all  
rectangles...or nearly....no darts, shaping done at side seams or by a  small  
diamond shaped gusset under the arm, which also helps shape the  short sleeve. 
Everything is very tight.
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In a message dated 8/12/2005 9:11:45 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wendirae@bellsouth.net writes:

Folkwear  doesn't really have a pattern for a Sari, it is simply a really 
long  rectangle? I'm such a visual person that I was hoping there was a simple  
step-by-step website out there.






Check this out:
 
_SAREE WORLD -- Sari, Saree,  Sarees, saris, silk sarees (sari), kanchipuram 
sar_ (http://www.sareeworld.com/sari.html)  
_http://www.sareeworld.com/sari.html_ (http://www.sareeworld.com/sari.html) 
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes of 1898, England - more books?
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Suzi,
What a comprehensive list of references!  The only thing I could 
think of adding is a web site that was given on this list: 
http://lafayette.150m.com/thumbscourt.html .  I don't know why I 
saved it since I don't do early 20th century anything, but the images 
are lovely.
Joan

At 03:11 AM 8/12/2005, you wrote:


>O.K. I have the chance of a very large commission for costumes of 
>c.1898. I already have a huge library, but wondered if there was 
>anything era specific that anyone would care to recommend. I already 
>have the following books on my shelves, along with many, many 
>others, and I do not wish to spend money on anything unless it gives 
>me information I don't already have. I do not want books on 
>Victorian sewing techniques, as I will not be necessarily be copying these.
>
>Jean Hunnisett, 1880-1909
>Janet Arnold 1860-1930
>Cut of Women's Clothes
>Cut of Men's Clothes
>Several Shep reprints of tailoring in the late Victorian era, male and female
>Costume in Detail
>Corsets and Crinolines
>Kristina Harris (the book on late Victorian fashion)
>Harpers Bazaar
>Cunnington - Englishwoman's Clothing of the 19th century.
>Fashion through Fashion Plates
>Hand coloured fashion Plates (Vyvyan Holland)
>My own fashion plates
>
>Any suggestions? I am very specifically looking for fashion as worn 
>in England.
>
>suzi _______________________________________________

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At 15:51 12/08/2005, you wrote:
>Suzi,
>What a comprehensive list of references!  The only thing I could 
>think of adding is a web site that was given on this list: 
>http://lafayette.150m.com/thumbscourt.html .  I don't know why I 
>saved it since I don't do early 20th century anything, but the 
>images are lovely.
>Joan

Thanks - I had forgotten that - I may have a military costume to 
produce, as long as it isn't a known regiment - and those military 
images are brilliant. The ladies  though are a bit dressy, even for 
my customers - I only do "gentry" you understand!!


>>O.K. I have the chance of a very large commission for costumes of 
>>c.1898. I already have a huge library, but wondered if there was 
>>anything era specific that anyone would care to recommend. I 
>>already have the following books on my shelves, along with many, 
>>many others, and I do not wish to spend money on anything unless it 
>>gives me information I don't already have. I do not want books on 
>>Victorian sewing techniques, as I will not be necessarily be copying these.
>>
>>Jean Hunnisett, 1880-1909
>>Janet Arnold 1860-1930
>>Cut of Women's Clothes
>>Cut of Men's Clothes
>>Several Shep reprints of tailoring in the late Victorian era, male and female
>>Costume in Detail
>>Corsets and Crinolines
>>Kristina Harris (the book on late Victorian fashion)
>>Harpers Bazaar
>>Cunnington - Englishwoman's Clothing of the 19th century.
>>Fashion through Fashion Plates
>>Hand coloured fashion Plates (Vyvyan Holland)
>>My own fashion plates
>>
>>Any suggestions? I am very specifically looking for fashion as worn 
>>in England.


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: KWCS Update
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On Fri, 12 Aug 2005, Catrijn vanden Westhende wrote:

> I'd love to hear otherwise (so I can plan ;-) ), but I doubt the
> location for next year has been announced yet (perhaps not even
> decided at this point).  Last year was in eastern Ohio, and I didn't
> hear about this year's location until after that was over.  They may
> announce it one year ahead of time, at the end of the current event?  
> All that is a long way to say that I don't know, and can't find _any_
> information about a KWCS after this one.

You can sign up for information here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KWCostume_Symposium/

Till now this has been used to post notices of bids and sites. There have
been only 8 messages in 2005, so it's not at all burdensome, though there
was a lot more traffic early on from people going to the first KWCS in
2000 (setting up carpools and classes, etc.).

The SCA has changed the bidding system for events of this type, so I don't
know how that will affect planning, but this would be the place to find
out. The latest message (just last week) points to instructions on bidding
and notes that there is not yet a bid for 2006.

The events have not always been at the same time of year; sometimes it's
more than a year between them. 

It seems to be useful for a group to try combining it with another major
symposium -- the Denver KWCS was combined with a rapier symposium and also
a smaller dance event, which meant it attracted a large enough number of
attendees to allow them to get a great conference hotel and facilities. I
see that this year's is combined with a "rattan" symposium, which must
have something to do with either weapons or fighting though I don't know
which.

I've been to two KWCS events (as a guest speaker) and had a ball both
times.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Indian Fabric Stores
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Shalincraft is OK, I've bought from them.  I got fast service and 
reasonable (though not spectacular) quality items.

There are a lot of saris and cholis for sale on eBay.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Karen R Bergquist wrote:

>Here are some sites that I have book marked. I haven't dealt with any of
>them as I live in Chicago and there's a sizeable Indian/Pakistani
>population and a really good Indian shopping district. 
>
>
>http://www.salwarkameezindia.com/
>
>http://www.shalincraft-india.com/
>
>http://www.homeindia.com/
>_______________________________________________
>
>  
>
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As to someone else's question, although the kingdom calendar doesn't
extend that far into the future, Calontir Clothier's Symposium is
expected to be held in the beginning of February as usual.  Some local
people are already starting to produce new outfits for the walk
through history, so I'd be extremely surprised if it wasn't happening.

Catrijn
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
Yup, it is always on the first full weekend of February (says the
originating autocrat :) ).  We were a little worried about catching a
snowstorm every year but have been pretty lucky.  This last one was the
20th.

Now watch, I just jinxed it for next year!

Catherine/Liriel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Indian Fabric Stores
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The Folkwear choli pattern (which compares, by the way, quite favorably with cholis I have had made in India) includes step-by-step illustrated directions for wrapping two different styles of sari.
If you really want to have some fun, you can get Chantal Boulanger's book "Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping." I ordered this a year or two ago on recommendation from somebody on this list--maybe that person still has the author's website, from which I ordered directly. Publisher is Shakti Press International, 33 Greyhound Rd., London W6 8NH, GB. The ISBN is 0-9661496-1-0. She includes a CD. The book provides a wonderful historical discussion of wrapped clothing and illustrations for many many regional, religious, and/or class variations on the sari. All have detailed illustrated directions. From this book I learned to wrap the Chettiyar dhoti, which my Ganesha wore in my recent production of A Perfect Ganesh. Indian audience members were delighted with what they considered the ultimate accurate detail, and in fact one woman said she came to the show because she saw the publicity picture and was impressed with Ganesha's dhoti.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Aug 12, 2005 9:32 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Indian Fabric Stores

 
In a message dated 8/12/2005 9:11:45 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wendirae@bellsouth.net writes:

Folkwear  doesn't really have a pattern for a Sari, it is simply a really 
long  rectangle? I'm such a visual person that I was hoping there was a simple  
step-by-step website out there.






Check this out:
 
_SAREE WORLD -- Sari, Saree,  Sarees, saris, silk sarees (sari), kanchipuram 
sar_ (http://www.sareeworld.com/sari.html)  
_http://www.sareeworld.com/sari.html_ (http://www.sareeworld.com/sari.html) 
 
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>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>...attendees to allow them to get a great conference hotel and facilities. 
>I
>see that this year's is combined with a "rattan" symposium, which must
>have something to do with either weapons or fighting though I don't know
>which.

Furniture making.

Marc


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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Muslin at JoAnn Fabrics (not)
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I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area. It could be that there's more
people using the muslin where I am and the bolts aren't used up as
quickly in Everett. I"ll bet there is more of this muslin in some
places six months from now, but in the SF area, it seems to be gone.

And that's why I'm so lucky - there are at least 20 other stores where
I can find muslin in a 20 minute driving area.

LynnD

On 8/11/05, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
<elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net> wrote:
> Wow!  I was at my local Joanne's (Everett, Washington USA) and they had *whole* bolts of the 90" and 120".
> 
> Where are you located?
> 
> 
> > (Sorry for the cross-post. I wanted everyone to know what I've found
> > out in case it pertains to you.)
SNIP MYSELF.

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I would imagine that they could be referring to the use of rattan in constructing typical SCA heavy weapons.
 
~Kimberley 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Carlson <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 11:01:53 -0500
Subject: [h-cost] RE:KWCS Update 


>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> 
>...attendees to allow them to get a great conference hotel and facilities. >I 
>see that this year's is combined with a "rattan" symposium, which must 
>have something to do with either weapons or fighting though I don't know 
>which. 
 
Furniture making. 
 
Marc 
 
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I should say, I just looked at Shalincraft and they have a lot more 
embroidered stoles than last time I looked, some of which are very tempting.

Fran

Lavolta Press wrote:

> Shalincraft is OK, I've bought from them.  I got fast service and 
> reasonable (though not spectacular) quality items.
>
> There are a lot of saris and cholis for sale on eBay.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> Karen R Bergquist wrote:
>
>> Here are some sites that I have book marked. I haven't dealt with any of
>> them as I live in Chicago and there's a sizeable Indian/Pakistani
>> population and a really good Indian shopping district.
>>
>> http://www.salwarkameezindia.com/
>>
>> http://www.shalincraft-india.com/
>>
>> http://www.homeindia.com/
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>  
>>
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>The only tricky part of a Sari is the fit of the Choli... and Salwar Kameez 
>(pants and tunic) can be pretty easy to throw together as well, if you are
> familiar with rectangular construction.

Personally, I cant toss something together for the low prices that our
local Indian shops sell and tailor for.  My recommendation is to
choose the salwar kamees from their stock (they'll be pre-embellished)
then have the shop tailor to fit.  A Choli should cost US$20-30.  You
have a choice of dozens of neckline & sleeve styles; it'll probably be
ready in a day or 3.  I just cant beat that and it gives me more time
to do something vintage European.

Granted, I live in Silicon Valley, home of the largest Indian
population outside India.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Indian Fabric Stores
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>Folkwear  doesn't really have a pattern for a Sari, it is simply a really
>long  rectangle? I'm such a visual person that I was hoping there was a 
>simple
>step-by-step website out there.

You don't need a pattern for a saree - it's six yards of fabric.  Folkwear 
has a pattern for a choli.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
>> Folkwear  doesn't really have a pattern for a Sari, it is simply a really
>> long  rectangle? I'm such a visual person that I was hoping there was 
>> a simple
>> step-by-step website out there.
> 
> 
> You don't need a pattern for a saree - it's six yards of fabric.  
> Folkwear has a pattern for a choli.

I'm big enough that I like 7 yards.

liz young

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:-D  The rattan schedule contains fighting classes.



> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 11:01:53 -0500
> From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] RE:KWCS Update 
>
> 
> >From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> >...attendees to allow them to get a great
> conference hotel and facilities. 
> >I
> >see that this year's is combined with a "rattan"
> symposium, which must
> >have something to do with either weapons or
> fighting though I don't know
> >which.
> 
> Furniture making.
> 
> Marc



		
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Subject: [h-cost] Uses of Dupioni?
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Still ruminating on the wedding dress. I found a
pretty dupioni that I thought would make a nice
underdress. Late 14th cent.

Opinions from the more experienced? (It will be a heat
wave if it gets up to 70 F on the day of)

Annette M

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Subject: Chantal Boulanger, was Re: [h-cost] Re: Indian Fabric Stores
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I ran a quick web search on Chantal and found her web site: 
http://www.devi.net/Chantal.html .  It includes links for her books.
Joan Jurancich

At 08:53 AM 8/12/2005, you wrote:
>The Folkwear choli pattern (which compares, by the way, quite 
>favorably with cholis I have had made in India) includes 
>step-by-step illustrated directions for wrapping two different styles of sari.
>If you really want to have some fun, you can get Chantal Boulanger's 
>book "Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping." I 
>ordered this a year or two ago on recommendation from somebody on 
>this list--maybe that person still has the author's website, from 
>which I ordered directly. Publisher is Shakti Press International, 
>33 Greyhound Rd., London W6 8NH, GB. The ISBN is 0-9661496-1-0. She 
>includes a CD. The book provides a wonderful historical discussion 
>of wrapped clothing and illustrations for many many regional, 
>religious, and/or class variations on the sari. All have detailed 
>illustrated directions. From this book I learned to wrap the 
>Chettiyar dhoti, which my Ganesha wore in my recent production of A 
>Perfect Ganesh. Indian audience members were delighted with what 
>they considered the ultimate accurate detail, and in fact one woman 
>said she came to the show because she saw the publicity picture and 
>was impressed with Ganesha's dhoti.
>
>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

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Kahlara wrote:
> Still ruminating on the wedding dress. I found a
> pretty dupioni that I thought would make a nice
> underdress. Late 14th cent.
> 
> Opinions from the more experienced? (It will be a heat
> wave if it gets up to 70 F on the day of)


I made my dress out of dupioni. It was a simple princess gown with a 
neckline drape. The only real problem I had with it was that the stuff I 
had frayed if I so much as looked at it so I had to finish every seam. I 
tested it and found that it shrunk, so I "pre-washed" it by simply 
soaking it and then ironing the heck out of it afterward. I'm glad I 
did. The sky opened up during the photo-taking session and I got soaked 
to the skin.


Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Indian fabric stores
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hhhmmmm......

I purchased my choli for $6 - granted it was a plain cotton one with no embellishment.

Thankfully I fit a 'off-the-rack' size.

Katheryne

----- Original Message -----
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>> 
> Personally, I cant toss something together for the low prices that our
> local Indian shops sell and tailor for.  My recommendation is to
> choose the salwar kamees from their stock (they'll be pre-embellished)
> then have the shop tailor to fit.  A Choli should cost US$20-30.  You
> have a choice of dozens of neckline & sleeve styles; it'll probably be
> ready in a day or 3.  I just cant beat that and it gives me more time
> to do something vintage European.
> --cin
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Uses of Dupioni?
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In a message dated 8/12/2005 7:06:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

so I had  to finish every seam


You don't anyway??????
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Muslin at JoAnn Fabrics (not)
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On Thursday 11 August 2005 4:37 pm, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net wrote:
[snip]

> > I don't hate JoAnn's as many people do. I'm lucky enough to live in a
> > big city where there are lots of other places to go for the fabrics
> > that JoAnn's doesn't carry.

I wouldn't badmouth the entire JoAnn's chain, because people's comments on 
this list suggest that individual JoAnn's stores vary greatly in the size and 
variety of their fabric selection and the intelligence and usefulness of 
their employees.  The JoAnn's nearest to me is fairly lame in both 
categories, but it's clear that other people have had different experiences.  
In fact, I once visited a JoAnn's I normally don't shop at, 25 miles away 
from me in NE Philadelphia, and found about 2 yards of the most beautiful 
rust-colored silk broadcloth I have ever seen, before or since (they were 
having a clearance sale at the time).


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Subject: [h-cost] OT:  transcription, translation, and ... ?
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When you take an original, handwritten document and type it up keeping 
the original spellings, punctuations, special characters, etc. that is a 
transcription.

When you take a work and put it into another language, eg Latin to 
English, that is a translation.

What it is called when you take a work and put into the same language 
but "fix" spellings, punctionation, etc.  Eg, Shakespeare or Chaucer 
into modern English, Renaissance German into modern German, etc.?  I 
thought there was another term for this, other than translation, but I'm 
drawing a blank.

Thanks,
--Charlene


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Charlene Charette wrote:

  > What it is called when you take a work and put into the same language
> but "fix" spellings, punctionation, etc.  Eg, Shakespeare or Chaucer 
> into modern English, Renaissance German into modern German, etc.?  I 
> thought there was another term for this, other than translation, but I'm 
> drawing a blank.

Not sure which word you're looking for, but here's the online thesaurus 
with a bunch of selections:

http://thesaurus.reference.com/search?q=translation



Dawn


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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:


> > so I had  to finish every seam
> 
> 
> You don't anyway??????

Nope, I'm lazy. If the fabric doesn't unravel by itself I leave it. I 
get tired of wearing it or garment is outmoded before it ever becomes a 
problem. And a lot of costumes, wedding dress included, I only wear once.



Dawn


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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  transcription, translation, and ... ?
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In a message dated 8/12/2005 9:58:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

I  
> thought there was another term for this, other than translation, but  I'm 
> drawing a blank.

Not sure which word you're looking for,  but here's the online thesaurus 
with a bunch of  selections:

http://thesaurus.reference.com/search?q=translation




Either "adaptation," or "rendition" from the above, sounds like what you  are 
looking for.
However, keep in mind that even a translation, or at least, a good one,  
requires a certain amount of skill beyond strict word-for-word rendering.   For 
example, if an idiom is used, the good translator finds an idiom that has a  
similar meaning, but is not a strict translation.
 
And thanks for the reference to the online thesaurus--a good site to know  
about.
 
And reminds me, REALLY OT, of the (I think) Steve Wright question, "What's  
another word for thesaurus?"
 
Ann Wass
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From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  transcription, translation, and ... ?
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Do you mean editing?


Charlene Charette <perronnelle@earthlink.net> wrote:
When you take an original, handwritten document and type it up keeping 
the original spellings, punctuations, special characters, etc. that is a 
transcription.

When you take a work and put it into another language, eg Latin to 
English, that is a translation.

What it is called when you take a work and put into the same language 
but "fix" spellings, punctionation, etc. Eg, Shakespeare or Chaucer 
into modern English, Renaissance German into modern German, etc.? I 
thought there was another term for this, other than translation, but I'm 
drawing a blank.

Thanks,
--Charlene


-- 
CPR: An emergency exercise that helps concerned onlookers feel useful 
while the victim expires. -- Bayan, Rick; The Cynic's Dictionary, 2002
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Since there has been discussion about the sometimes
lack of historical accuracy in movie costumes I
thought this was interesting.

Found it on eBay - something from an old B & W movie.
Thought it might be good for a grin.

http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7538331810&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1

Annette M

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From: Jodi Nelson <faerieglenstudios@yahoo.com>
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The costumes were set in mid-1700 French country style. They were a joy to make and we had a wonderful team to do it. Deanna was the designer and she teaches at BYU. I learned lots from her as well as from Priscilla, who was the first hand on this show. The other team was working on Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat. Kathy was the designer for that show and she hails from UOP.
We had some wonderful fabrics from L.A. fabric district, Thai Silks, New York and other places I can't remember right now. If any of you come to the St.George, Utah area give me a call. You can crash at my place, and the Shakespeare Fest is up the road. The Fest and Tuachan both run from June to October. 
Jodi                   
 
 

		
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Subject: [h-cost] CC24 Doll Competion
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The rules for the Costume-Con 24 Grand Doll Costume Competition have been 
uploaded to the discussion group files section and should be up on the 
website soon.

In the meantime I am posting them here for everyone's perusal. Are Doll 
Costume Competition directors this year are Kat Pepmiller and Michelle Clark.

Pierre

Grand Doll Competition

The Costume-Con 24 Doll Competition is your opportunity to make that 
fantastic costume in your head that is too big, will take too long, or be 
too expensive at full size. Compete it on a doll. You may use either 
purchased figures or self-made figures. By purchased figure we mean the 
physical doll itself (a Barbie, Raggedy Ann or other doll) and you make an 
original costume for it. By self-made we mean you make the body of the doll 
as well as the costume. They may be human, humanoid, alien, animal or 
abstract. The costuming must be original and the focus of judging will be 
on the costume itself. Keep in mind that even with dolls, no costume is no 
costume.

We will group all entries by type of figure and subject and by purchased or 
self-made. Typical categories will be Fantasy, Science Fiction, Historic, 
Theatrical and so forth.

We do have two special categories.

1) The Color Challenge. This is a special category designed to spark your 
creativity by limiting your color palette. Here's how it works. You will 
send to me two numbers of your choice between 1 and 20. I have a random 
list of colors which will correspond to these numbers. Your two numbers 
will determine your palette, which I will send to you. Once you have your 
colors you must design your doll using only those colors. You may use 
shades of your color within reason. For example if you get red as one of 
your colors, you may use scarlet or crimson, but not pink. In addition, you 
may use natural flesh tones or hair colors regardless of your palette. 
However, if you wish to use non-natural flesh or hair, it must conform to 
your palette. We hope you will enjoy this special category.

2) Theme Challenge – Following in the steps of the Future Folio, we would 
like to officially encourage and recognize designs based on the redesigning 
of a feature film.

Judging results will be announced at the Historic masquerade. You must be 
at least a supporting member to enter. If you have an entry, but are not 
coming to the convention, please try to send your work with an attendee, 
who can personally deliver and return it. You may enter more than one doll, 
but please check on space availability if you have several dolls, larger 
dolls or a diorama. Your doll must be on display no later than noon 
Saturday for judging, though Friday morning is preferred. If you have a 
problem, please let us know. It will help to organize space if you 
pre-register your entry with the Doll Competition Director. You can also 
ask questions and let me know if you have any special display needs. While 
regular doll contest entries do not HAVE to pre-register, Color Challenge 
entries MUST pre-register.

Also, if you are planning to attend, have experience in doll work, but for 
whatever reason are not presenting this year, and last but not least, would 
consider judging, please let us know.

For pre-registration, questions, or to send your two numbers for the Color 
Challenge, contact us at:

Michelle Clark
777 Aurora Ave, St Paul MN 
55104  <mailto:mborzoi@hotmail.com>mborzoi@hotmail.com  651-263-0213
or
Kat Pepmiller
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55423  <mailto:nekosan@cfaith.com>nekosan@cfaith.com

Please make sure you refer to the convention in the subject line of your 
email. We want to avoid filtering requests out.




"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  



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I don't think this is the term you are looking for, but when you take something written in a different alphabet (like Hebrew, for instance) and you put it in our alphbet, it's called transliteration.    
 

		
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Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 13:44:24 -0700
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  transcription, translation, and ... ?
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At 8:35 PM -0500 8/12/05, Charlene Charette wrote:
>What it is called when you take a work and put into the same 
>language but "fix" spellings, punctionation, etc.  Eg, Shakespeare 
>or Chaucer into modern English, Renaissance German into modern 
>German, etc.?  I thought there was another term for this, other than 
>translation, but I'm drawing a blank.

At least when discussing how personal names are treated, 
onomasticists call it "normalization." This means putting words into 
a standard modern form -- one that will seem "normal" to readers.
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Muslin at JoAnn Fabrics (not)
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You can buy the wide muslin at the Joann's website, and they've been 
having 50% online coupon codes at the site lately, so you might get it 
half price to boot.


Dawn
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But is it Joann's brand or the one they are talking about on the list?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2005 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Muslin at JoAnn Fabrics (not)


> You can buy the wide muslin at the Joann's website, and they've been 
> having 50% online coupon codes at the site lately, so you might get it 
> half price to boot.
> 
> 
> Dawn
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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I did some looking around at the local quilting shops and found a few
companies that make muslin.  I was wondering if anybody had preferences
for any of these....

Roclon (only seen at regular fabric stores, not quilting stores)
Moda muslin
P & B textiles muslin
Home on the Range muslin

I think all of these companies make muslin in at leat 90" width and some
of them have 108" width.  Can anybody comment on the quality and/or price
of these?  If you can speak to the quality of any of these, please let me
know also.

Thanks!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Muslin at JoAnn Fabrics (not)
References: <081120052037.12753.42FBB724000B6176000031D122064246130809070E029D0E0A0809079BA101A10E020A040A@comcast.net><200508122052.59727.cathy@thyrsus.com>	<42FF69AA.6020609@reddawn.net>
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It looks like the Roc-lon product in the pictures and descriptions. I 
cannot match up any product numbers, however, and I have no way of 
knowing if they are substituting the new brand or not. Or if it even 
exists. I asked at my local store yesterday and was told they haven't 
been told anything about it. (not saying the new muslin story isn't 
true, but I've heard all kinds of sewing rumors on the internet that 
turn out to be false)

Mostly I wanted to point out that staple products like muslin can be 
ordered when the local supply is gone. (Although on second look, they 
are charging $3.30/yd for the muslin that sells for $1.99 in the store, 
and even the online 'sale' price of $2.30/yd is no bargain by comparison 
  -- especially after $12 shipping.)


Dawn


Chiara Francesca wrote:

> But is it Joann's brand or the one they are talking about on the list?
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2005 10:56 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Muslin at JoAnn Fabrics (not)
> 
> 
>> You can buy the wide muslin at the Joann's website, and they've been 
>> having 50% online coupon codes at the site lately, so you might get it 
>> half price to boot.
>>
>>
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Sari vendors (was Re: Indian Fabric Stores)
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If you are hunting for beautiful saris on-line, some in the 9-yard length,
most handloomed, mostly cotton and silk, plus draping information, cholis,
petticoats, and veils, DO visit http://www.sarisafari.com.  She has the best
quality I've found, and I'm encouraging her to stock more things that suit
various historical-costuming tastes.

By the way, for anyone looking for Indian block-print yard goods with
18th-century compatible prints, contact *me.* I am slowly developing sources
for importing them, and have about a dozen different prints at this time. I
haven't got a Web site set up but I have scans of the fabrics I can send
you. 

Lauren
-- 
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net
-- 
"One does not need buildings, money, power, or status to practice the Art of
Peace. Heaven is right where you are standing, and that is the place to
train." -- Morihei Ueshiba

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Subject: [h-cost] Thanks!!! Bustle gown
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Hi,

Thank you all for helping me making my bustle gown a succes!
I am very happy with it.
We had our archery competition in an openair museum and they sayd that 
it would rain.
But luckely it didn't!
I got al lot of nice comments on my dress and a lot of people who took a 
picture of me.
And I won fhirst price in the lady's archery competition. :-)
At the bottom of the page you can see me shooting.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html

Greetings,
       Deredere

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Aug 14 16:07:43 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thanks!!! Bustle gown
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You look lovely.  I like the color combination.  And the cute backpack ;-).
Joan

At 12:27 PM 8/14/2005, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>Thank you all for helping me making my bustle gown a succes!
>I am very happy with it.
>We had our archery competition in an openair museum and they sayd 
>that it would rain.
>But luckely it didn't!
>I got al lot of nice comments on my dress and a lot of people who 
>took a picture of me.
>And I won fhirst price in the lady's archery competition. :-)
>At the bottom of the page you can see me shooting.
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html
>
>Greetings,
>       Deredere

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Muslin at JoAnn Fabrics (not)
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Whoa!!!!  I'm Elena o' Tighearnaigh (SCA name)...

The email that is being replied to below by this poster is NOT FROM ME!  The entirety of what I wrote is:  "Wow!  I was at my local Joanne's (Everett, Washington USA) and they had *whole* bolts of the 90" and 120.  Where are you located?"

I've not been following this thread until I happned to see this...Since I go to Joanne's alot because I'm also really into Quilting, I certainly wouldn't badmouth this chain.

Gia

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> On Thursday 11 August 2005 4:37 pm, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net wrote: 
> [snip] 
> 
> > > I don't hate JoAnn's as many people do. I'm lucky enough to live in a 
> > > big city where there are lots of other places to go for the fabrics 
> > > that JoAnn's doesn't carry. 
> 
> I wouldn't badmouth the entire JoAnn's chain, because people's comments on 
> this list suggest that individual JoAnn's stores vary greatly in the size and 
> variety of their fabric selection and the intelligence and usefulness of 
> their employees. The JoAnn's nearest to me is fairly lame in both 
> categories, but it's clear that other people have had different experiences. 
> In fact, I once visited a JoAnn's I normally don't shop at, 25 miles away 
> from me in NE Philadelphia, and found about 2 yards of the most beautiful 
> rust-colored silk broadcloth I have ever seen, before or since (they were 
> having a clearance sale at the time). 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond 
> 
> "So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by 
> entropy. I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going 
> to brush its teeth. So there."-- Rob Landley 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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From: "Katie Lewis" <katie_lewis@lycos.com>
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Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 13:29:12 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 517
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> 
> Do you know of any good sources of authentic Indian patterns? I 
> know Folkwear has a few, but didn't know if there was anything else 
> out there. I've been trying to find a pattern for an authentic 
> wedding sari suit; I don't know if there is an official name for it.


By "authentic" do you mean historical or do you mean, "like the ones worn in India today"?  If the former, there are a few patterns or rather directions for pattern drafting avalible on the web.  If the latter, then Folkwear will do pretty well.  Of course, having been drafted some years ago, the Folkwear patterns are likely to be out of style.  
I'm not sure what you mean by "wedding sari suit", could you describe the outfit?

-Katie


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: on-line silk fabric
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Hi, I'm waaay behind on the list, so this has probably already been
brought up, but Silk Connection has noile for as cheap as $2/yd.

http://www.silkconnection.com/products/fabric/silk/noil/

~mary
http://www.quite-contrary.org/

> Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 16:13:05 -0400
> From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
> Subject: [h-cost] on-line silk fabric
> 
>     Had a computer crash this year and subsequently lost all my
> favourite 
> websites. Ever since I've been looking for a particular on-line
> silk 
> supplier for either noile or shot dupioni. All I can recall was the
> prices 
> were ridiculously reasonable, especially at the quantities I was
> looking at 
> purchasing. (30 yards +)
> 
>     I've been to Denver, Dharma, G&S, Thai and none of them seem to
> be the 
> company where I'd found wonderful colours of noile for around
> $4.00/yd.
> 
>     Any ideas, oh great hoarders of fabric? :-)
> 
> Regards
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> historical sewing patterns; quality, hand-crafted cooperage;
> embroidery 
> supplies, and more.
> www.5rivers.org - info@5rivers.org
> 519-799-5577 
> 


"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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From: "Katie Lewis" <katie_lewis@lycos.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Indian Fabric Stores
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Wendy wrote:
> 
> I am interested in both the Sari/Saree and the Lehenga; I'm sure 
> I'll get around to the Salwar Kameez (they look so comfortable).

Most lenghas are simply unshaped drawstring skirts.  What makes them is the fabric and ornamentation.  I think that there are some very high fashion ones that are along the lines of a circle skirt.  The blouses worn with lenghas are a often a bit different than the ones worn with saris.  I don't know of anyone who has a pattern, your best bet might be to find one that fits and reverse engineer it.
> 
> Folkwear doesn't really have a pattern for a Sari, it is simply a 
> really long rectangle? I'm such a visual person that I was hoping 
> there was a simple step-by-step website out there.

Yep, it is indeed a long regtangle.  Modern saris are usually worn with a petticoat, which is just a tube of fabric with a drawstring waist.  Sometimes there will be a ruffle at the bottom.
As far as directions on draping a sari, googling "How to wear a sari" will come up with several site that will show how to drape a modern nivi sari.  There is a good set of directions on:
www.sarisafari.com
which also sells beautiful saris at reasonable prices.
There is also a nice set of instructions on the Institue for Draped Clothing's website, which I belive is:
www.idc.org
They also sell a book _The Sari: An illustrated guide to the art of Indian draping_ that has a vast number of sari drapes, if you get really into draping.

-Katie

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Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 10:19:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thanks!!! Bustle gown
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Congratulations!!!  LOVE the dress on you.  Obviously not to much difficulty shooting with a corset on?  
 
Chris G.

Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
You look lovely. I like the color combination. And the cute backpack ;-).
Joan
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Bustle/Bustle.html

		
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I have a length of what sounds like the same silk on layby. If it is the same, yes, isn't it gorgeous. Strangely enough, the name of the colour is 'Peacock'! :-) I'm going to make my posh ECW gown out of it.

Joannah.

--- Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 21:01:47 -0700 (PDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Osnaburg (& silk question)

Hello,
 
I found this definition - Osnaburg: A plainly woven cotton fabric with small flecks of cotton stalks remaining within the weave. Its appearance is similar to a coarse muslin.
 
Sounds like flour sacking material to me.
 
 
I found some gorgeous peacock blue silk - with a shimmer that changes color from the greenish to blueish peacock range depending on the angle of the light. I thought it would make a beautiful skirt lining or something? Would something like this be too OOP? (if it is, I think I'll add it to my collection anyway, but it would be nice to have an excuse)
 
Annette M
(someday I hope I can contribute as much as I get from here)
 




		
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The dress looks terrific, and many congratulations on winning first in
the competition!


Karen
Seamstrix
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Muslin
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My bit of retail shop experience (not a chain store): Wide goods 106 - 118" $10.98 - 13.98/yd. I don't know actual thread counts. 

P&B Textiles - 108" some of it feels pretty good, some feels like it probably has an additional finish. It is not as high a thread count as their 45" $5.98/yd in the same line - Color Spectrum.
RJR makes some pretty nice wide goods in tonals. I don't know if their solid color is as good a quality.
Robert Kaufman - 118" cotton poplin - nice
Fabri-Quilt - 108" muslin - not bad - & - 118" cotton sateen - pretty nice 

Given a choice from what I am familiar with, I would go with the cotton sateen or the cotton poplin. 

Megh E.




Message: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2005 09:22:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Muslin
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I did some looking around at the local quilting shops and found a few
companies that make muslin.  I was wondering if anybody had preferences
for any of these....

Roclon (only seen at regular fabric stores, not quilting stores)
Moda muslin
P & B textiles muslin
Home on the Range muslin

I think all of these companies make muslin in at leat 90" width and some
of them have 108" width.  Can anybody comment on the quality and/or price
of these?  If you can speak to the quality of any of these, please let me
know also.

Thanks!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: linnen stains
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Mia,

<
and red North Carolina Mud. 
<

Sounds like red Toowoomba mud! :-) I got a spot about 1" diameter on a white skirt once, and 10 years later you could STILL see the stain.

There is actually someone in Brisbane who has a market stall selling t-shirts and things which have been dyed in earth pigments. I bet they take a loooong time to fade.

Joannah. 

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Subject: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
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I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset. Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is what type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume that it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length. 

Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a plus size hour glass type figure.
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Those are not elisabethan.
They are 18th en 19th century corsets.
And I think the boning would bee steel wich you can also cut to lengt.
The pattern for the 18th century corset is taken from Corsets an 
Crinolines but they adapted the schoulder straps.

The best pattern I used for a 16th century corset is From Patterns of 
Fashion frm Janet Arnold.
You can see pictures somewhere on this page.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/16thcent/16woman/16thcent_dress/16thcent_dress.html


Jeanne Willis wrote:

>I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset. Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is what type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume that it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length. 
>
>Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a plus size hour glass type figure.
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
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Jeanne Willis wrote:

> I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset. Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is what type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume that it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length. 
> 
> Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a plus size hour glass type figure.

View A & B are front and back lacing variations on 18th century 
(American Revolutionary War) era stays, while views C & D are 19th 
century (Victorian) corsets. I don't know of a commercial (big 3) 
pattern for an Elizabethan era corset.

Standard plastic boning works if you use enough of it. Otherwise it may 
not give you much support at your size. I would look into supplementing 
the plastic with a couple of good steel bones at key support places like 
the front and back.



Dawn





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeanne Willis"

I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset.
Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is what
type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume that
it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length.

Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a
plus size hour glass type figure.
_______________________________________________

Try this website for information and materials:

http://www.farthingales.on.ca/

Sheridan


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Indian Fabric Stores
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Katie - I guess I'm looking for both, I'd like to compare the differences. The wedding sari suit is probably just a more ornate (if that is possible) that a daily outfit. It may sound stupid, but I was watching a movie, Bend it Like Beckham (or Kick it Like Beckham in the UK), and I absolutely fell in love with the red outfit that the main character, Jess, wore. My terminology may be off, but I thought they called it a suit.

Oh well, I'll have to do some more searching online.
Thanks,
Wendi
> 
> 
> By "authentic" do you mean historical or do you mean, "like the ones worn in India today"?  If the former, there are a few patterns or rather directions for pattern drafting avalible on the web.  If the latter, then Folkwear will do pretty well.  Of course, having been drafted some years ago, the Folkwear patterns are likely to be out of style.  
> I'm not sure what you mean by "wedding sari suit", could you describe the outfit?
> 
> -Katie
> 
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Indian Fabric Stores
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Katie - Thanks for the information!
Wendi
> Wendy wrote:
> > 
> > I am interested in both the Sari/Saree and the Lehenga; I'm sure 
> > I'll get around to the Salwar Kameez (they look so comfortable).
> 
> Most lenghas are simply unshaped drawstring skirts.  What makes them is the fabric and ornamentation.  I think that there are some very high fashion ones that are along the lines of a circle skirt.  The blouses worn with lenghas are a often a bit different than the ones worn with saris.  I don't know of anyone who has a pattern, your best bet might be to find one that fits and reverse engineer it.
> > 
> > Folkwear doesn't really have a pattern for a Sari, it is simply a 
> > really long rectangle? I'm such a visual person that I was hoping 
> > there was a simple step-by-step website out there.
> 
> Yep, it is indeed a long regtangle.  Modern saris are usually worn with a petticoat, which is just a tube of fabric with a drawstring waist.  Sometimes there will be a ruffle at the bottom.
> As far as directions on draping a sari, googling "How to wear a sari" will come up with several site that will show how to drape a modern nivi sari.  There is a good set of directions on:
> www.sarisafari.com
> which also sells beautiful saris at reasonable prices.
> There is also a nice set of instructions on the Institue for Draped Clothing's website, which I belive is:
> www.idc.org
> They also sell a book _The Sari: An illustrated guide to the art of Indian draping_ that has a vast number of sari drapes, if you get really into draping.
> 
> -Katie
> 
> -- 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Search for businesses by name, location, or phone number.  -Lycos Yellow Pages
> 
> http://r.lycos.com/r/yp_emailfooter/http://yellowpages.lycos.com/default.asp?SRC=lycos10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 18:06:27 -0500
> From: Karen R Bergquist <penhalion@juno.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thanks!!! Bustle gown
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <20050815.180628.-699387.0.penhalion@juno.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> The dress looks terrific, and many congratulations on winning first in
> the competition!
> 
> 
> Karen
> Seamstrix
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 23:10:39 -0400
> From: Sharon Rust-Ryburn <shilo@srclink.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Muslin
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <4301592F.2050403@srclink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> My bit of retail shop experience (not a chain store): Wide goods 106 - 118" $10.98 - 13.98/yd. I don't know actual thread counts. 
> 
> P&B Textiles - 108" some of it feels pretty good, some feels like it probably has an additional finish. It is not as high a thread count as their 45" $5.98/yd in the same line - Color Spectrum.
> RJR makes some pretty nice wide goods in tonals. I don't know if their solid color is as good a quality.
> Robert Kaufman - 118" cotton poplin - nice
> Fabri-Quilt - 108" muslin - not bad - & - 118" cotton sateen - pretty nice 
> 
> Given a choice from what I am familiar with, I would go with the cotton sateen or the cotton poplin. 
> 
> Megh E.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2005 09:22:17 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Muslin
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <1039.67.188.164.116.1124036537.squirrel@www.inreach.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> 
> I did some looking around at the local quilting shops and found a few
> companies that make muslin.  I was wondering if anybody had preferences
> for any of these....
> 
> Roclon (only seen at regular fabric stores, not quilting stores)
> Moda muslin
> P & B textiles muslin
> Home on the Range muslin
> 
> I think all of these companies make muslin in at leat 90" width and some
> of them have 108" width.  Can anybody comment on the quality and/or price
> of these?  If you can speak to the quality of any of these, please let me
> know also.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Diana
> 
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 08:34:14 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: linnen stains
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <20050816083415.BDBFB178@dm22.mta.everyone.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain
> 
> Mia,
> 
> <
> and red North Carolina Mud. 
> <
> 
> Sounds like red Toowoomba mud! :-) I got a spot about 1" diameter on a white skirt once, and 10 years later you could STILL see the stain.
> 
> There is actually someone in Brisbane who has a market stall selling t-shirts and things which have been dyed in earth pigments. I bet they take a loooong time to fade.
> 
> Joannah. 
> 
> _____________________________________________________________
> Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community!
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 10:03:30 -0700
> From: "Jeanne Willis" <jeanne.willis@verizon.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
> To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> Message-ID: <000a01c5a284$6df961d0$5af56647@youro0kwkw9jwc>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset. Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is what type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume that it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length. 
> 
> Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a plus size hour glass type figure.
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 12:09:26 -0500
> From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <000001c5a285$41a7e740$6601a8c0@kimathlon>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I like to use the plastic whalebone I get from Grannd Garb. See their
> web page:
> 
> http://www.grannd.com/Merchant2/
> 
> Kim
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Jeanne Willis
> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 12:04 PM
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
> 
> 
> I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset.
> Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is
> what type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume
> that it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length. 
> 
> Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm
> a plus size hour glass type figure.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 19:14:27 +0200
> From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <43021EF3.3000807@kabelfoon.nl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> Those are not elisabethan.
> They are 18th en 19th century corsets.
> And I think the boning would bee steel wich you can also cut to lengt.
> The pattern for the 18th century corset is taken from Corsets an 
> Crinolines but they adapted the schoulder straps.
> 
> The best pattern I used for a 16th century corset is From Patterns of 
> Fashion frm Janet Arnold.
> You can see pictures somewhere on this page.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/16thcent/16woman/16thcent_dress/16thcent_dress.html
> 
> 
> Jeanne Willis wrote:
> 
> >I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset. Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is what type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume that it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length. 
> >
> >Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a plus size hour glass type figure.
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 12:35:11 -0500
> From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <430223CF.3020808@reddawn.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> 
> Jeanne Willis wrote:
> 
> > I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset. Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is what type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume that it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length. 
> > 
> > Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a plus size hour glass type figure.
> 
> View A & B are front and back lacing variations on 18th century 
> (American Revolutionary War) era stays, while views C & D are 19th 
> century (Victorian) corsets. I don't know of a commercial (big 3) 
> pattern for an Elizabethan era corset.
> 
> Standard plastic boning works if you use enough of it. Otherwise it may 
> not give you much support at your size. I would look into supplementing 
> the plastic with a couple of good steel bones at key support places like 
> the front and back.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:50:35 -0400
> From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <002901c5a28b$088adfc0$0a02a8c0@nodomainset.bellcanada>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jeanne Willis"
> 
> I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset.
> Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is what
> type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume that
> it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length.
> 
> Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a
> plus size hour glass type figure.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Try this website for information and materials:
> 
> http://www.farthingales.on.ca/
> 
> Sheridan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
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> 
> End of h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 529
> *****************************************
> 

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-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Jeanne Willis
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 12:04 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] elizabethian corset


I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset.
Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is
what type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume
that it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length. 

Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm
a plus size hour glass type figure.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

I've used cable ties from the Home Depot,  plastic bonig from the sewing store, 1/4" wide thin metal stays/boning and and 1/4" wide basket caning.  All have worked on my subtantial figure. And these have all been fully boned. I like the basket caning best.  It breathes, something to consider if you are in the southland of anywhere.   

A friends has also used cording on her set.  They definatelly support her less than mine do!

And let me know how these stays come out for you.  They are on the top of the pile for my next project.  The shape looks good, for Am Rev War,/ Late 18th cent, I have mara rileys notes on how to convert from BIG PATTERN COMPANY to a more authentic construction,   The pattern only cost me $1.99 and I want to see how my abilitymeasure up (ha Ha) to the  Big Pattern Company's professional pattern makers and their grading skills 

I'm thinking of only half boning them, and perhaps using one of those coil steel bones across the top.

My last pair that I made, wool covered, bound with leather (chamois)  came out great I will be wearing them when our Rev War regiment return to Eng. and we get to be "colorful replicas of England Past" on Staurda and Sunday, Sept. 10-11. in Lichfield Eng.

Mia in Charlotte NC


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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 12:17:14 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
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>Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a 
>plus size hour glass type figure.

Not too tight is the only suggestion I can make.  Remember your diaphragm 
and treat it kindly.  I made the 18th century corset from this pattern, and 
solidly boned it with giant plastic cable ties.  It worked fine, and I'm a 
dress size 22.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 14:17:44 -0500
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I do not know your sewing skills but if they are fairly good perhaps you
might try
http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm
or
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/elizabethan.html
Both are excellent.

Lyse

-----Original Message-----
I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset.
Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is what
type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume that
it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length.

Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a
plus size hour glass type figure.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Jeanne Willis wrote:

>I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset. Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is what type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume that it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length. 
>  
>

Those corsets aren't Elizibethan-- they're 18th and 19th century.

Have you had a look at http://costume.dm.net   ?


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 12:09:26 -0500
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I like to use the plastic whalebone I get from Grannd Garb. See their
web page:

http://www.grannd.com/Merchant2/

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Jeanne Willis
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 12:04 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] elizabethian corset


I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset.
Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is
what type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume
that it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length. 

Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm
a plus size hour glass type figure.
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Subject: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
>I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset.
Butterick B4254. Is >anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is
what type of boning do I use?. The >pattern just say's "boning". I
assume that it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it >to length.

That patt looks like mid 17th c to 1890 to me. As Eliz died in 1603,
it's not very Elizabethan.  I strongly suggest the Dorothea Sabina
corset in Arnold's Patts of Fashion or Drea Leed's copy of the
Elizabeth effigy corset. Both look remarkably different from the
models shown in the Butterick patt.

Also,  fashionwise, "Elizabethan" covers a wide & varied span, 60+
years.  Decide what year(s) you're doing before picking a patt.

>Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a plus
> size hour glass type figure.

I assume "plus size" means something like generously proportioned.  In
which case, I'd steer you toward steel.  It's all about the support. 
I'm a small B and I use steel.

What's traditional?  Whalebone, "bents" (a kind of swamp grass, I
think) and wood for the busk, tho I have some period commentaries that
hint variously at steel for either boning or busk.  I'm currently
using a wooden busk for my very late Elizahoovian.

Someone else mention Corsets & Crinolines.  Yes, absolutely.  Good
material in there.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
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In a message dated 8/16/2005 5:14:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ladyadele@paradise.net.nz writes:

http://costume.dm.net   


The corset generator is very good....and the instructions for realizing the  
corsets are also quite thorough. The only thing I would change is I would 
split  the pattern and inch and a half or two inches back from where a normal side 
seam  would fall [or near this place that the boning pattern easily allows 
and  put the CB on the straight of grain....letting this sorta side back seam be 
off  grain and the CF and CB on the  straight. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
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> Standard plastic boning works if you use enough of it. Otherwise it may
> not give you much support at your size.

This is the important thing so many people seem to forget. The stays or
partial stays we have extant are fully boned. Each bone sewn right up
against the next. This is how whale bone (nb: for those who don't know,
baleen with is not bonelike at all but a very relatively soft material when
cut into strips, it can also be steamed into shape) can be used in corsetry.

I would also recommend the effigy stays as a model. I am rather hourglass
shaped so I find untabbed stays dig in terribly at the waist. The tabs
reduce the hourglass shape somewhat, but the pressure is taken off the waist
(and lower back especially) and more evenly distributed. It's probably a
good idea for the tabs to be all in one with the body rather than cut
seperately, easier for getting the boning into the tabs for sure.

Butterick stays are indeed 18th to 19thC. However if you have the pattern
already, you can ignore the boning lines to make view a or b more like the
effigy stays. A bit of tweaking of the neckline would help as well.
http://costume.dm.net/corsets/history.html
Drea Leed has a photo on her site you could use as a guideline, as well as
her step by step detail of how she made hers.
http://costume.dm.net/effigy.htm



There are many of us who have made these stays that can offer advice.

For me I made the stays pretty much as they were with the very long point in
front and large tabs all around the waist. I used over 100 narrow cable ties
of various lengths, the longest of which were 45cm (18") I made mine from
fustian, but I guess the weave is too loose as there are bits of bone poking
me in some places. So I'm going to over sew some fine closely woven silk
over the top. Probably just laying it flat wover the existing seams so that
the fronts are on the bias to give it some stretch like the fustian has
anyway. I think it will be in a purple;) Or a pale pink. I think pale pink
would be good.
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/16thunderwear.htm
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm (though most of the stays
information is near the start of the diary (around July 2004)
The pattern goes together really easily as well, and the shape you get is
dependant on the direction of the bones. I want to do a show and tell of how
the direction of the bones affects the shape (diagonal makes a much rounder
shape across the belly for instance.)

I don't know if there is any way to make the drafting easier. I just used
the image in Corsets and Cinolines blown up to a size where I could more
accurately work out the pattern pieces.

I'm larger than the original, by about 10 inches at the waist, though really
8 once you actually lace properly.

The shape is also very comfortable, for a given value of comfort. I found it
more comfortable than any corsetry from the 18thC, 19thC or other stays I
have made/used. The cable ties also helped in that, because of their
softness. I got a good rigid shape, but my ribs didn't feel like they were
being compressed.
michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] New Simplicity Martha McCain pattern (cross post)
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I was just looking at the Simplicity website and it appears that there's
another Martha McCain ACW pattern #4400 out it's a basic dart fitted bodice
(it looks like the same bodice as the last pattern #4510) with a plain skirt
and two new sleeve variations (and possibly 2 different collars I'm not
sure). If I recall correctly this was due to be the last of the 1860s
patterns and the designer is now moving on to 18th century.
I'm tempted to grab all of these last three patterns (4551, 4510 & 4400)
next time I see a buy 1 get 2 free sale on Simplicity patterns (we don't get
$1.99 sales over here it's either 50% off or buy 1 get 2 free), I love the
sleeve variations, it just adds so much diversity to your wardrobe.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: [h-cost] OT:  transcription, translation, and ... ? 
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Editing is probably the most accurate word.  I call it word smithing and
it's been a big part of my job.  Sometimes it even involves translation,
like when converting "Chinglish" or "Spanglish" to standard English ;-)
Julie

-----Original Message-----
Do you mean editing?


What it is called when you take a work and put into the same language 
but "fix" spellings, punctionation, etc. Eg, Shakespeare or Chaucer 
into modern English, Renaissance German into modern German, etc.? I 
thought there was another term for this, other than translation, but I'm 
drawing a blank.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethian corset
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeanne Willis" <jeanne.willis@verizon.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 3:03 AM
Subject: [h-cost] elizabethian corset


>I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset.
Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this >pattern? My question is what
type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume that
it's a >plastic boning since you need to cut it to length.

>Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a
plus size hour glass type figure.

I'm going to disagree with everyone else here and say, even though it is
18th century the lines are not so dramatically different from an Elizabethan
corset that people will notice underneath your gown.
I'm halfway through making this pattern as an 18th century corset using
cable ties (which are roughly the same strength as the rigilene you buy at
the fabric shop) but I've filled in as many gaps as I can with extra boning
channels. I'm also using a steel busk in the centre front
(http://www.farthingales.on.ca/spring_steel_bones.php #50-8518-27 through to
50-8518-36) which I used in my first Elizabethan corset based on Drea
Aleed's corset pattern generator (I had replaced my steel busk with a wooden
one so I had a spare busk lying around). So you can use plastic boning if
the corset is fully boned and you have a couple of stronger bones placed in
strategic places like the centre front and beside the laces (in the 18th
century this was achieved with thicker pieces of whalebone so instead of
buying steel boning you could just stack 2 or 3 layers of plastic boning in
one channel)
If I were using this pattern for a 16th century corset the only major change
I'd make would be to make all of the boning channels vertical (as you can
see in the two surviving 16th century corsets) as that will help to reduce
the prominent bust that was popular in the 18th century (the ideal was a
small waist, cleavage and a narrow back though this pattern gives you more
room in the back to allow for the freedom of movement modern people expect).
There are other alterations you can do to this pattern but would take less
effort to draft your own using either Drea Aleed's corset pattern generator
(I've got a similar size 18-20 hourglass to pear shaped figure and I find
shoulder straps and boned tabs is the most comfortable style, but you need
to raise the back to stop the shoulder straps from slipping off) or Tammie
Dupuis' directions http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_corset.htm which,
although a little more difficult to follow (you've got to do your own maths
and it requires more measurements) will produce something more period.
HTH
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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YIPPEE!!!!  10 years of work is finally online!!!  My Fashion Color Database, http://www.fcdatabase.com/ is live online!  The old-timers on the list, just fell of their chairs... yes, it really has been  ten years.  

Ten years ago on h-costume (I was a student in college) and asked a question, "What color is Dead Spaniard?"  It was one of my first messages to h-costume.  (Lurkers see what you can get into from just asking one question!)  I was doing research for a costume history paper and thought it was the funniest name for a color. We had a good laugh about color names thread on the list.  This one question lead me on the search of my life... to document fashion color names, their usage, description/definition, and trends.  My paper was supposed to be 4 pages long... it ended up 30 pages long.

Between that time and 1998, I had documented about 4,000 names.  I searched non-stop on the names.  Then my computer crashed and I lost everything in the database but my original college research.  My heart was broken. So I switched my focus to building up our online Library.  I picked back up my color research as I worked on the Library.  Today, there is almost 1500 entries in the database, but they are online now!  

H-costume gets the first look at the Fashion Color Database (FCD)... Since the h-costume old-timers inspired me to search harder and to dust myself off after my computer crashed.  The FCD is part of our subscription area of our Library.  I am going to leave the database password FREE until Sunday morning, so you all can see it.  Please remember that there are some links to the Library website in the color name *details* comment area.  Those links are still password protected.  You will know when you hit them a gray password box will popup.  Just hit cancel and click you back button.

I still have a couple of glitches that I am working on... the Articles and Bibliography links from the menu are not live yet.  I do suggest that everyone look over the FAQ section before doing searches in the database.  The database can be picky.  Make sure to read the parts about how-to-do a search.  There is a Color Name Index, that provides an alphabetical listing of the color names in the database.  Beside each name is a date(s).  That is the year(s) of usage or documentation for that color name.  The Index area will always be in the free area of the site.

I hope you all enjoy the FCD!  I am so thrilled to finally have the it online!!!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Martha McCain pattern (cross post)
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In a message dated 8/16/2005 11:26:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ewalpole@tpg.com.au writes:

I was  just looking at the Simplicity website and it appears that there's
another  Martha McCain ACW pattern #4400 


Not bad. Looks like Scarlet's dress she wears thru the Reconstruction. I  
prefer the fuller sleeves. I just don't see many tight sleeves in 1860s  
pics....actually I can't remember seeing ANY. [1840s is another matter] and the  
shallow point is very 1850s to me. The cartridge pleating all the way  'round is 
also very 1840-50s.  Most 1860s  day dresses have  waistlines that go straight 
across, with the bodice closing CF and the waistband  of the attached skirt in 
flat pleats closing a little left of CF, hidden in  a pleat with a hidden 
pocket there.
 
But y'know...never say never....
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Celebration!
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A great idea, Penny.

Now, just to complicate your life further, have you thought about linking the name of the colour to an actual colour sample eg using the Pantone colour charts? ;-P  So that people can see what the colour is, as opposed to being just a name and date/s, albeit some very evocative ( & provocative? Dead Spaniard!!!? ) names.
 
http://www.pantone.com/  
http://www.colorguides.net/?referrer=Adwords

Joannah

--- "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:

From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 05:31:28 -0400
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Celebration!

YIPPEE!!!!  10 years of work is finally online!!!  My Fashion Color Database, http://www.fcdatabase.com/ is live online!  The old-timers on the list, just fell of their chairs... yes, it really has been  ten years.  

Ten years ago on h-costume (I was a student in college) and asked a question, "What color is Dead Spaniard?"  It was one of my first messages to h-costume.  (Lurkers see what you can get into from just asking one question!)  I was doing research for a costume history paper and thought it was the funniest name for a color. We had a good laugh about color names thread on the list.  This one question lead me on the search of my life... to document fashion color names, their usage, description/definition, and trends.  My paper was supposed to be 4 pages long... it ended up 30 pages long.

Between that time and 1998, I had documented about 4,000 names.  I searched non-stop on the names.  Then my computer crashed and I lost everything in the database but my original college research.  My heart was broken. So I switched my focus to building up our online Library.  I picked back up my color research as I worked on the Library.  Today, there is almost 1500 entries in the database, but they are online now!  

H-costume gets the first look at the Fashion Color Database (FCD)... Since the h-costume old-timers inspired me to search harder and to dust myself off after my computer crashed.  The FCD is part of our subscription area of our Library.  I am going to leave the database password FREE until Sunday morning, so you all can see it.  Please remember that there are some links to the Library website in the color name *details* comment area.  Those links are still password protected.  You will know when you hit them a gray password box will popup.  Just hit cancel and click you back button.

I still have a couple of glitches that I am working on... the Articles and Bibliography links from the menu are not live yet.  I do suggest that everyone look over the FAQ section before doing searches in the database.  The database can be picky.  Make sure to read the parts about how-to-do a search.  There is a Color Name Index, that provides an alphabetical listing of the color names in the database.  Beside each name is a date(s).  That is the year(s) of usage or documentation for that color name.  The Index area will always be in the free area of the site.

I hope you all enjoy the FCD!  I am so thrilled to finally have the it online!!!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Thank you, thank you, thank you.  This is FANTASTIC!!!
 
Oh, BTW, can I be added to the mailing list for "The Cut" for when it's ready to make the rounds.  I HOPE we'll be able to purchase it and the Runway show on DVD one of these days.  
 
Thank you again Penny :)
 
Chris G.

Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
YIPPEE!!!! 10 years of work is finally online!!! My Fashion Color Database, http://www.fcdatabase.com/ is live online! The old-timers on the list, just fell of their chairs... yes, it really has been ten years. 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Aug 17 10:17:20 2005
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At 10:31 17/08/2005, you wrote:
>YIPPEE!!!!  10 years of work is finally online!!!  My Fashion Color 
>Database, http://www.fcdatabase.com/ is live online!  The old-timers 
>on the list, just fell of their chairs... yes, it really has been  ten years.
>
>Ten years ago on h-costume (I was a student in college) and asked a 
>question, "What color is Dead Spaniard?"  It was one of my first 
>messages to h-costume.  (Lurkers see what you can get into from just 
>asking one question!)  I was doing research for a costume history 
>paper and thought it was the funniest name for a color. We had a 
>good laugh about color names thread on the list.  This one question 
>lead me on the search of my life... to document fashion color names, 
>their usage, description/definition, and trends.  My paper was 
>supposed to be 4 pages long... it ended up 30 pages long.
>
>Between that time and 1998, I had documented about 4,000 names.  I 
>searched non-stop on the names.  Then my computer crashed and I lost 
>everything in the database but my original college research.  My 
>heart was broken. So I switched my focus to building up our online 
>Library.  I picked back up my color research as I worked on the 
>Library.  Today, there is almost 1500 entries in the database, but 
>they are online now!


Congratulations - an epic project indeed. I just hope that when I 
start looking I will find *my* favourite - "Goose-turd green"!!

Suzi


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<SNIP>
> Oh, BTW, can I be added to the mailing list for "The Cut" for when it's 
> ready to make the rounds.  I HOPE we'll be able >to purchase it and the 
> Runway show on DVD one of these days.

Is this the same Chris who got the Runway tapes?

LOL!  My husband and I have been making fashion critiques for the INXS Rock 
Star reality shows.  The one lady that dresses and looks like Blondie, now 
looks like Madonna (or is her name Esther now?)

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 

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I will get to answering your questions later tonight.  I haven't been to 
sleep since 4 yesterday.  Getting son #5 ready for college this morning... 
so I am very lacking in sleep.

I checked into several options about publishing this information.  I will 
let you all now what I found out when I return later tonight or early in the 
morning Thursday.

BTW, Gooseturd is in the database.  My favorite color are when London and 
Pairs were battling over who was the fashion capital of Europe.  They made 
bad fashion color names about the other's city.  One of the names is in the 
"L" color index under London.  Another name lost in my old database, I think 
the name was Nun's Belly... who saw a Nun's Belly to know what color it 
was???

Good night... at 11:39 am.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Congratulations!  I don't remember the beginnings of your research but I
do remember some of your later posts.

And I was just thinking about your color list, and 'dead spainard' last
night.  Our local PBS stations was rerunning the Battlefield Britain
episode on The Armada :).

Catherine
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Suzi Clarke wrote:

> Congratulations - an epic project indeed. I just hope that when I start 
> looking I will find *my* favourite - "Goose-turd green"!!

Although some of these names are ... odd, at least they're descriptive. 
  I know exactly what color goose turds are.  As compared to modern 
catalog descriptions.  "Storm" as a color name, for example.

Congrats, Penny!

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The opiate of this massive is a book. -- John Theophilous
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
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Jeanne,

As umpteen other people have said, that pattern is not Elizabethan. 'Nuf said.

It does take some work, and you will need some one to help you, but if you want to make 'effigy' style stays, without having to buy a pattern - although I don't wish to take business away from Kass Mcgann or Margot Anderson - and then adjust it to fit you, you could try the way which I have made patterns for 4 pairs of stays in the last year and half.     ( There is another article - 'Drafting an Effigy Corset Pattern', linked from 'The Effigy Corset: A New Look at Elizabethan Corsetry' - which, with apologies to Gwynne, I couldn't manage to make work. This is quite probably a fault of my maths skills, not a fault of her directions. You may be able to make it work for you. ) 

If you just want to make a very simple pair of stays, the custom corset generator on http://costume.dm.net/ is excellent.

For the effigy stays :
You wil need - cardboard, duct tape, an old tee shirt that you don't mind having chopped up, a marking pen to draw on the duct tape. Someone you don't mind seeing you half naked. ;-P

1. Generate a corset pattern using the above site. Draft up the pattern and cut it out of cardboard. ( Thin enough to cut with scissors, about double the thickness of cereal box cardboard. ) Cut 2 strips of cardboard about 2" x 6" to use for working out the gap for your hip bone.
   If the cardboard isn't big enough to cut the whole pattern out of one piece, cut it out of two pieces and reinforce the centre front join with a strip of cardboard stuck behind it. ( Like a busk! )

2. Fit the cardboard corset to you so that it holds everything where you want it. ( This is best done next to bare skin - you can't wear a bra, it will distort things. ) Duct tape it closed. Put one of the short strips of cardboard, up under the bottom edge of the corset, just in front of your hip bone, the other the same way just behind your hip bone. If you are fairly round, the gap can be quite wide, if you are less round it will be more of an angle like the pictures of Drea. Stick the strips in place with a bit of tape.

3. Put on the old tee shirt. Get your friend to duct tape you, like making a duct tape double. If you aren't familiar with this process, follow this link - http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00002_p2.asp. Tape down slightly below your waist. Don't worry about taping down around the arms, it isn't necessary. 
   
4. Once taped, get your friend to outline with the marking pen along the top line of the cardboard corset, the bottom line of the corset, down the centre front, and down the centre back. Mark where the gap for you hip bone is on the bottom line. At this stage you can either get your friend to outline the shoulder straps and back neckline, and the line of the side back seam, or get cut out of the duct tape and draw them yourself.

5. You now have your very basic pattern, without tabs. I never cut out the tabs and front point until the corset is almost completed - channels sewn and boned, fronts and back/s joined - it stops things from fraying/ getting messy. ( Mind you, I haven't used steel boning in any of these corsets. I'll have to think about how to get around this point if boning with steel. )
   At this point, I trace around the duct tape pattern onto paper, and work on and from this paper pattern. ( The duct tape pattern doesn't lie flat well, usually. ) To pattern the tabs, draw a curving line folowing the bottom line of the corset, about 2'-3' inches below. When you transfer the pattern to your fabric, mark both lines. The new bottom line is how long the tabs are, the old bottom line where you stop cutting the tabs.

6. Make up your corset. I follow Drea's method.

I hope these directions make sense.

Now for boning types. I haven't used cable ties, but I have used broomstraw ( in my own corset ) and hemp cord ( in the other three ). This broomstraw ( which is actually closer to reeds in stiffness and size, I think - see http://www.grannd.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RR00&Category_Code=CCREEDS ) is more than rigid enough to hold me up - I'm size 26 and an E cup.  I also *cannot* bend at the waist while wearing it. ( It opens down the front, so I don't have a busk. ) The hemp cord which I have used                   ( http://www.btoucan.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=249 ), two pieces per channel, was firm enough to hold up my friend Shaz who has an even bigger bust than me. The effect of her cleavage in her corset is almost enough to stop traffic. One of the benefits of using the hemp cord is that your movement isn't restricted - Shaz can do side bends from the waist in hers.

One thing about using hemp to bone an effigy-style corset, is that you can't easily follow the stitching lines along the front top of the original corset. It is much easier, and looks better, if you abandon those stitch lines and cut the cord flush with the top edge, and the same along the bottom of the corset.

The other thing which I have used with great success to bone Elizabethan corsets is the sticks from matchstick blinds, 2-3 to a channel, ( like this - http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0722752137.1124293162@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccckaddfhfjklhjcgelceffdfgidglo.0&CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=Super%20Categories/Indoor%20Living&MID=9876&pos=p05 ) although those corsets didn't have integral tabs. I don't think the 'matchsticks' have enough give to use for that type. 

I will be making another corset this way in the next few weeks, and I think that I will have to do a diary with pictures. It will make explaining the process sooo much easier.

I'm sorry, this is a very long post, but I hope you find it helpful. 

Joannah.               

--- "Jeanne Willis" <jeanne.willis@verizon.net> wrote:

From: "Jeanne Willis" <jeanne.willis@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 10:03:30 -0700
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] elizabethian corset

I just purchase a pattern for what I think is an elizabethan corset. Butterick B4254. Is anyone familiar with this pattern? My question is what type of boning do I use?. The pattern just say's "boning". I assume that it's a plastic boning since you need to cut it to length. 

Any suggestions as to type of boning or a better elizabethan corset? I'm a plus size hour glass type figure.
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Penny: Paris and London were always at each other(and still are--witness
the last French salvo demeaning English cuisine just before London was
awarding the 2012 Olympic Games)over who had the best culture, so all
the name-calling in colors is great fun to us reading them today.

And the French came up with some unlovely names(of course they sound
tres elegante en francaise)for fad colors on their own. I haven't
checked your database yet, but I'm sure caca Dauphin is there--it was a
fad color devised and named when Marie Antoinette finally gave birth to
a male heir. The color was meant as a compliment since the French throne
was an exclusive boy's club by law so the birth of a male heir was a
very big deal Caca Dauphin was apparently a greenish brown modeled after
the color of a newborn's excreatment from the neither end(to put it
politely). The French throne being a no women need apply  as ruler and
the Queen Consort was supposed to keep a low profile and kick out male
heirs), only a  mistresse en titre(you got to see Le Roi a lot more than
royal wifey and have a big influence on court life and royal policy had
any real power and more acceptable to the French to boot since mistress
to the King was French, and not foreign-born as was royal wifey). It was
was probably why Marie Antoinette was so unpopular as Queen Consort as
time went on. It had been generations since a French Queen had been
attractive, fashionable, outgoing, and apparently an influence on royal
policy. And she wasn't producing male heirs one after the other. Not her
fault, but the French just couldn't understand a King that was faithful
to his wife as Louis XVI. And a king that wasn't that interested in sex
was something nearly impossible at the time, especially to the French,
who were very used to Kings bedhopping--it was almost expected.

Cindy Abel

 

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>are.  As compared to modern 
> catalog descriptions.  "Storm" as a 
>color name, for example.

"Petrol" is the one that gets me! 
 Ever put fuel in something clear? 
Gasoline and diesel fuel are always a 
shade of red, pink or orange.  When I 
see "petrol" listed as a color name in 
a catalog, I have to narrow it down by 
elimination, and I'm usually left with 
some kind of steel grey or blue-grey.

Which is what I'd call "storm".  :-D

Denise
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>"Petrol" is the one that gets me!
> Ever put fuel in something clear?
>Gasoline and diesel fuel are always a
>shade of red, pink or orange.  

My vote goes to "Vomitesse de la Reine". So elegant. Yeh.
Second runner up, too modern for this list I suspect, is Po-Mo Pink.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Simplicity Martha McCain pattern (cross post)
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You know, I wish Simplicity would get a different artist or get the artist
who draws the front and back pictures different from the Barbie drawings.

De




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>From: Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net>
> >are.  As compared to modern
> > catalog descriptions.  "Storm" as a
> >color name, for example.
>
>"Petrol" is the one that gets me!
>  Ever put fuel in something clear?
>Gasoline and diesel fuel are always a
>shade of red, pink or orange.  When I
>see "petrol" listed as a color name in
>a catalog, I have to narrow it down by
>elimination, and I'm usually left with
>some kind of steel grey or blue-grey.
>
>Which is what I'd call "storm".  :-D

There's a Stormy Petral joke in there someplace.

Marc


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Thank you Diana, Dawn, Ann, Cindy and David (hope I didn't miss anyone!) 
for your responses to my questions about a Regency gown. I've got three 
weeks to pull this together, so I'm trying to buy the fabric now. Anyone 
care to comment?

For the day gown, I've gotten some lovely white cotton from Delectable 
Mountain Fabrics (their web site seems to have temporarily 
disappeared--I stopped there on the way home this past weekend--talk 
about drool city!) It has a subtle stripe/dot dobby pattern and just 
enough body to not be diaphonous. I'd like to wear this with a spencer, 
so that's the next purchase. Some fabric choices for that are:


Pink Check Dupioni
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/home/catalog_itemdetail.cfm?ItmID=L082
or
Blue or green linen
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/home/catalog_itemdetail.cfm?ItmID=J248
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/home/catalog_itemdetail.cfm?ItmID=J311

I also picked up some gorgeous white satin batiste. Scrumptious. Not 
sure if it should be for a petticoat (it would be a really fine one) or 
an undergown of the ball dress.


Ball gown choices:

Joann's had a bolt of $5/yd pale pink china silk with widely, but 
regularly, scattered embroidered flowers. The flowers are small, simple, 
with green stems (maybe 1/4" high, about a foot apart). Not quite 
right--just a single flower not a sprig, but I couldn't resist buying 
it. Now I'm thinking the color is too "young."

So, some other possibilities:

Blue Silk Gauze for an overgown (over white silk/silk satin, or maybe 
that satin batiste) with some kind of trimming, maybe a rouleau at the 
neckline or looped up with rosettes at the hem (in your dreams, lady!):
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/home/catalog_itemdetail.cfm?ItmID=B969

Joann's also had a sheer nylon sort-of-organza embroidered all over with 
a pale blue and sage green flower/stem. Again, not quite right but very 
pretty.

Then there's the bonnet to make, and a turban for the ball (my hair is 
too short for an up-do.

So, what do you think?

- Hope




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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Celebration!
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So, what colour IS a dead Spaniard?

-C.


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Her husband wasn't disintered in sex-he was incapable of it. And once his problem had been fixed their first born apparently suffered from progeria, so maybe he shouldn't have had kids.

Note: forwarded message attached.



Carol Mitchell listowner Costumemidwest www.yahoogroups.com/group/costumemidwest
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Aug 17 20:47:28 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] speaking of colors
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Hiya,

I came across this dissertation and thought you might be interested...

"LE BLASON DES COULEURS": A TREATISE ON COLOR THEORY AND SYMBOLISM IN  
NORTHERN EUROPE DURING THE EARLY RENAISSANCE
Author: NELSON, ELIZABETH Degree: PH.D. Institution: BROWN UNIVERSITY  
0024 Year: 1998



Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Reunite Pangaea!

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the  
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority.  
Truth does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a  
majority of the people.
- Giordano Bruno

Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
- Gunn

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In a message dated 8/17/2005 7:00:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:

so I'm  trying to buy the fabric now. Anyone 
care to  comment?



I like the pink check for the spencer--I have seen more silk or wool  
spencers than linen ones.
 
The blue gauze for the ballgown sounds good, but not sure how much you can  
get done in 3 weeks.
 
If worst comes to worst, you could make your white dress low-necked and  
short sleeved, but make separate undersleeves and a chemisette.  Wear it  with the 
spencer and bonnet for day, and with a smashing turban for  evening.  While I 
have never worn it for 2 events on the same day, I have  worn one of my white 
cotton dresses for both day and evening--with a fichu and  bonnet for day, 
and a turban and cameo jewelry for evening.
 
Ann Wass
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Probably a pale, olivey-green would be my guess....Depends on what 
killed him, eh? ;o)
--sue

stilskin@netspace.net.au wrote:

> So, what colour IS a dead Spaniard?
> 
> -C.


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A yellowish grey IIRC.  Or maybe a greenish-grey.   I was always told to 
think of what a Spaniard would look like washed up on the shore after a 
shipwreck...

Cheers,
Danielle

At 10:01 AM 8/18/2005 +1000, you wrote:
>So, what colour IS a dead Spaniard?
>
>-C.

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That would be wonderful.  The names are interesting, but what color IS Dead
Spaniard?  Or Goose Turd...?  Inquiring minds want to know <G>

Julie

-----Original Message-----

A great idea, Penny.

Now, just to complicate your life further, have you thought about linking
the name of the colour to an actual colour sample eg using the Pantone
colour charts? ;-P  So that people can see what the colour is, as opposed to
being just a name and date/s, albeit some very evocative ( & provocative?
Dead Spaniard!!!? ) names.
 
http://www.pantone.com/  
http://www.colorguides.net/?referrer=Adwords

Joannah


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I've also heard of goose-turd green in its French equivalent, merde d'oie (a dark olive-green, for those that don't know). And of course puce is the French for flea (allegedly the colour of a squashed flea).
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu 17/08/2005 17:35 >>>

And the French came up with some unlovely names(of course they sound tres elegante en francais)

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I know there are people from all over on the list -
but on average what would you expect to pay per yard
for a nice linen? ...either at a fabric store or
online.

Annette M
(living in the no man's land of fabric stores)


		
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Hi Annette,

I'm from the Dallas area.  If I find a nice linen, in the color that I like 
or want and it's under $10/yd., I will purchase it.

Melinda~


>From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Linen prices
>Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 10:40:57 -0700 (PDT)
>
>I know there are people from all over on the list -
>but on average what would you expect to pay per yard
>for a nice linen? ...either at a fabric store or
>online.
>
>Annette M
>(living in the no man's land of fabric stores)
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________
>Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
>http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen prices
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Here in North Carolina: at a fabric store, for 100% linen: *usually*
about $12-18/yd depending on weight. Sometimes you can get it on end
of season sale (last year I got 20 yds for $3/yd).

Online you can expect to pay from $4-25/yd depending on weight and
quality. The majority of what I've seen runs between $6-10/yd

For "nice" linen, expect to pay in the $10+ range.

Hope that helps!

-I

On 8/18/05, Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I know there are people from all over on the list -
> but on average what would you expect to pay per yard
> for a nice linen? ...either at a fabric store or
> online.
> 
> Annette M
> (living in the no man's land of fabric stores)
> 
>

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From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fitting issues
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My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding
too. She is 5'-2" and wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to
fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very fitted, a
belt, or anything else that will create any pressure
or tension, especially on her lower back. She also
detests anything that might accentuate the bust. But I
don't want to make her look like she is wearing a tent
either.

The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does not
have to be historically accurate, just look the part.

I was thinking a houppelande would do well with most
of these requirements. I haven't really studied them
as to fit so I don't know just how fitted they might
be over the bust and waist. I wonder if making it less
so will create a tent-like appearance.

Or perhaps a basic chemise and tunic type dress with
side lacing so that it can be gathered in a bit, but
not snugly.

This picture from a series of German prints also gave
me some ideas. The woman on the right, but simplified.
http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML

Any suggestions or ideas?

Thanks,
Annette M


		
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From: Catrijn vanden Westhende <catrijn@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen prices
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On 8/18/05, Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I know there are people from all over on the list -
> but on average what would you expect to pay per yard
> for a nice linen? ...either at a fabric store or
> online.

My normal price range for nice linen is $7-10 per yard.  My primary
sources are almost always within that range.  Retail chains and
upscale places tend to charge significantly more (frequently $15-20
when not on sale), but it has to be very nice before I'll consider
paying those prices.

Catrijn

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Aug 18 14:50:41 2005
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Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 19:49:20 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fitting issues
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At 19:28 18/08/2005, you wrote:
>My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding
>too. She is 5'-2" and wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to
>fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very fitted, a
>belt, or anything else that will create any pressure
>or tension, especially on her lower back. She also
>detests anything that might accentuate the bust. But I
>don't want to make her look like she is wearing a tent
>either.
>
>The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does not
>have to be historically accurate, just look the part.
>
>I was thinking a houppelande would do well with most
>of these requirements. I haven't really studied them
>as to fit so I don't know just how fitted they might
>be over the bust and waist. I wonder if making it less
>so will create a tent-like appearance.
>
>Or perhaps a basic chemise and tunic type dress with
>side lacing so that it can be gathered in a bit, but
>not snugly.
>
>This picture from a series of German prints also gave
>me some ideas. The woman on the right, but simplified.
>http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML
>
>Any suggestions or ideas?


I am roughly the same size as your future MIL and wore a houppelande 
to a ball a few weeks ago. I made it from the pattern in Jean 
Hunnisett's book - the one that is called medieval to 1500. It goes 
on like a coat and is very comfortable. However, I don't think you 
would need the 8 yard hem for her - this can easily be modified.

You will also find patterns for the Italian Renaissance gowns in your 
picture in the same book. I have used those too and always found them 
easy and comfortable for my customers.

If you want any more info, please ask.

Suzi 


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Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 13:51:47 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen prices
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I will purchase online at the higher price if it is in one of those
impossible colors that no one locally carries ... like christmas
green or the blue based red!

Otherwise, I have been very lucky and find all the other colors
locally for 7-10 a yard, 3 if it is on sale cause there is only 5
yards left. Silly people ... to them it is a remnant!

:)
Chiara
Who has too much fabric and needs to ebay away lots of it ... sigh.


On Thu, August 18, 2005 1:33 pm, Catrijn vanden Westhende said:
> On 8/18/05, Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> I know there are people from all over on the list -
>> but on average what would you expect to pay per yard
>> for a nice linen? ...either at a fabric store or
>> online.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fitting issues
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Status: RO

Hm...Having fibromyalgia myself, I can tell you that the *weight* of the garment is as important as the fit.  And 'dragging' along long lengths of fabric, no matter how pretty, really can cause the fatigue that makes the pain pretty darned unendurable.  If you make a houppeland, make sure it's out of a fairly lightweight fabric.  I used to wear italian ren, and then the gowns just got too heavy for me, and I just won't wear a italian ren without the right amount of fabric to get that 'shape and drape' that is so special.

Now most of the time I wear a nice tunic over a linen under tunic, that just skims the body so I don't even have to wear a belt.  Anything I can carry has to go into a little basket, so I'm forced to not carry more than I have to.

Anyhow, you are on the right track thinking about going tunic for her.

Elena


> My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding
> too. She is 5'-2" and wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to
> fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very fitted, a
> belt, or anything else that will create any pressure
> or tension, especially on her lower back. She also
> detests anything that might accentuate the bust. But I
> don't want to make her look like she is wearing a tent
> either.
> 
> The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does not
> have to be historically accurate, just look the part.
> 
> I was thinking a houppelande would do well with most
> of these requirements. I haven't really studied them
> as to fit so I don't know just how fitted they might
> be over the bust and waist. I wonder if making it less
> so will create a tent-like appearance.
> 
> Or perhaps a basic chemise and tunic type dress with
> side lacing so that it can be gathered in a bit, but
> not snugly.
> 
> This picture from a series of German prints also gave
> me some ideas. The woman on the right, but simplified.
> http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML
> 
> Any suggestions or ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Annette M
> 
> 
> 		
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fitting issues
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A houppelaude may be a bit heavy but if you want Houppelaude:
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/f/p-fabriano3.htm
Other styles:
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/m/p-gmilano1.htm
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/g/p-giottin1.htm
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/artgallery1.htm

Here is something similar to the German print:
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/earlyflor/3flor12.html
more ideas, Florentine:
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/earlyflor/portfolio.html
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/p/p-pisanel2.htm
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/m/p-monaco2.htm
De

----Original Message-----
My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding too. She is 5'-2" and
wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very
fitted, a
belt, or anything else that will create any pressure or tension, especially
on her lower back. She also detests anything that might accentuate the bust.
But I don't want to make her look like she is wearing a tent either.
The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does not
have to be historically accurate, just look the part.

(snip)
This picture from a series of German prints also gave
me some ideas. The woman on the right, but simplified.
http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML

Any suggestions or ideas?

Thanks,
Annette M


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From: Catrijn vanden Westhende <catrijn@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fitting issues
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Status: RO

Given your considerations, you might want to think about something a
bit earlier than the examples you mentioned.  Fashions in 1350-1500
featured (warning: wild generalizations ahead) close-fit (e.g.
cotehardie) or vast quantities of fabric (e.g. houppelande), neither
of which may be very comfortable for her.  Also, women's houppelandes
seem to be belted nearly all the time.  It's under the bust instead of
closer to the lower back, but it still needs to be belted for the
right look.  (The pic you linked is an Italian style different from
the houppeland... totally out of my limited area of knowledge.)

I would recommend looking at simple loose tunic dresses, like in the
Manesse Codex (early 14th c. German manuscript).  Maybe with a
sleeveless over tunic in a contrasting color to dress it up a bit?
http://www.manesse.de/manesse0-9.shtml
This style looks pretty good on most people as long as you use a
fabric that isn't stiff, and use enough fabric to allow it to drape
nicely.  It doesn't need to be belted at all.

Just a thought...

Catrijn

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fitting issues
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Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com> wrote
>My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding
>too. She is 5'-2" and wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to
>fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very fitted, a
>belt, or anything else that will create any pressure
>or tension, especially on her lower back. She also
>detests anything that might accentuate the bust. But I
>don't want to make her look like she is wearing a tent
>either.
>
>The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does not
>have to be historically accurate, just look the part.
>
>I was thinking a houppelande would do well with most
>of these requirements. I haven't really studied them
>as to fit so I don't know just how fitted they might
>be over the bust and waist. I wonder if making it less
>so will create a tent-like appearance.
>
>Or perhaps a basic chemise and tunic type dress with
>side lacing so that it can be gathered in a bit, but
>not snugly.
>
>This picture from a series of German prints also gave
>me some ideas. The woman on the right, but simplified.
>http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML
>
>Any suggestions or ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Annette M
>

I like your choice.  I think this style will look very elegant - just 
enough fitting to show that there is a distinction between bust and 
stomach, but skimming gracefully over the rest.  I imagine it could also 
be very solid and respectable on someone older, too - just right for the 
groom's mother.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fitting issues
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Hm...Having fibromyalgia myself, I can tell you that the *weight* of the garment is as important as the fit.  And 'dragging' along long lengths of fabric, no matter how pretty, really can cause the fatigue that makes the pain pretty darned unendurable.  If you make a houppeland, make sure it's out of a fairly lightweight fabric.  I used to wear italian ren, and then the gowns just got too heavy for me, and I just won't wear a italian ren without the right amount of fabric to get that 'shape and drape' that is so special.

Now most of the time I wear a nice tunic over a linen under tunic, that just skims the body so I don't even have to wear a belt.  Anything I can carry has to go into a little basket, so I'm forced to not carry more than I have to.

Anyhow, you are on the right track thinking about going tunic for her.

Elena


> My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding
> too. She is 5'-2" and wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to
> fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very fitted, a
> belt, or anything else that will create any pressure
> or tension, especially on her lower back. She also
> detests anything that might accentuate the bust. But I
> don't want to make her look like she is wearing a tent
> either.
> 
> The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does not
> have to be historically accurate, just look the part.
> 
> I was thinking a houppelande would do well with most
> of these requirements. I haven't really studied them
> as to fit so I don't know just how fitted they might
> be over the bust and waist. I wonder if making it less
> so will create a tent-like appearance.
> 
> Or perhaps a basic chemise and tunic type dress with
> side lacing so that it can be gathered in a bit, but
> not snugly.
> 
> This picture from a series of German prints also gave
> me some ideas. The woman on the right, but simplified.
> http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML
> 
> Any suggestions or ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Annette M
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Yahoo! Mail for Mobile 
> Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. 
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Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 13:49:07 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fitting issues
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I can sympathize with your MIL. I have severe RA, and can't stand
pressure and tension from clothes. I opted for a sideless surcoat with a 
full skirt worn over long-sleeved, full-skirted undergown with a center
slit in the neck. This can be left as is, or pinned closed. The sideless
surcoat stresses the long line, and is a very graceful garment. Both have
no fastenings and pull on and off over the head. The style seems to work
on all body types, whether thin or Reubenesque. Sideless surcoats were
still around in the 14th c. Put a veil or coif on top and she is good to
go.

Ideally, linen for the undergown and silk for an upperclass surcoat (or
wool), but failing that, you can get very nice results using polycotton
blends. They move well, are well balanced, very comfortable, and not at
all heavy. And you don't have to wear a belt with them unless you want
to.

Arlys

On Thu, 18 Aug 2005 19:49:20 +0100 Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
writes:
> At 19:28 18/08/2005, you wrote:
> >My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding
> >too. She is 5'-2" and wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to
> >fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very fitted, a
> >belt, or anything else that will create any pressure
> >or tension, especially on her lower back. She also
> >detests anything that might accentuate the bust. But I
> >don't want to make her look like she is wearing a tent
> >either.
> >
> >The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does not
> >have to be historically accurate, just look the part.
> >
> >I was thinking a houppelande would do well with most
> >of these requirements. I haven't really studied them
> >as to fit so I don't know just how fitted they might
> >be over the bust and waist. I wonder if making it less
> >so will create a tent-like appearance.
> >
> >Or perhaps a basic chemise and tunic type dress with
> >side lacing so that it can be gathered in a bit, but
> >not snugly.
> >
> >This picture from a series of German prints also gave
> >me some ideas. The woman on the right, but simplified.
> >http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML
> >
> >Any suggestions or ideas?
> 
> 
> I am roughly the same size as your future MIL and wore a houppelande 
> 
> to a ball a few weeks ago. I made it from the pattern in Jean 
> Hunnisett's book - the one that is called medieval to 1500. It goes 
> on like a coat and is very comfortable. However, I don't think you 
> would need the 8 yard hem for her - this can easily be modified.
> 
> You will also find patterns for the Italian Renaissance gowns in 
> your 
> picture in the same book. I have used those too and always found 
> them 
> easy and comfortable for my customers.
> 
> If you want any more info, please ask.
> 
> Suzi 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Hm...Having fibromyalgia myself, I can tell you that the *weight* of the garment is as important as the fit.  And 'dragging' along long lengths of fabric, no matter how pretty, really can cause the fatigue that makes the pain pretty darned unendurable.  If you make a houppeland, make sure it's out of a fairly lightweight fabric.  I used to wear italian ren, and then the gowns just got too heavy for me, and I just won't wear a italian ren without the right amount of fabric to get that 'shape and drape' that is so special.

Now most of the time I wear a nice tunic over a linen under tunic, that just skims the body so I don't even have to wear a belt.  Anything I can carry has to go into a little basket, so I'm forced to not carry more than I have to.

Anyhow, you are on the right track thinking about going tunic for her.

Elena


> My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding
> too. She is 5'-2" and wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to
> fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very fitted, a
> belt, or anything else that will create any pressure
> or tension, especially on her lower back. She also
> detests anything that might accentuate the bust. But I
> don't want to make her look like she is wearing a tent
> either.
> 
> The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does not
> have to be historically accurate, just look the part.
> 
> I was thinking a houppelande would do well with most
> of these requirements. I haven't really studied them
> as to fit so I don't know just how fitted they might
> be over the bust and waist. I wonder if making it less
> so will create a tent-like appearance.
> 
> Or perhaps a basic chemise and tunic type dress with
> side lacing so that it can be gathered in a bit, but
> not snugly.
> 
> This picture from a series of German prints also gave
> me some ideas. The woman on the right, but simplified.
> http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML
> 
> Any suggestions or ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Annette M
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
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> Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. 
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen prices
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Kahlara wrote:

>I know there are people from all over on the list -
>but on average what would you expect to pay per yard
>for a nice linen? ...either at a fabric store or
>online.
>  
>

Ummm... OK, I'm speaking of New Zealand dollars here (~0.70US, I think), 
and I buy linens that are sutable for shirts (chemises, camicia, etc) 
and for linings, but not for making garb as such.

On a very good day at a very good sale, probably $4-6 per metre for 
something reasonably nice.  The least I've paid in the past 7 or 8 years 
is $2. More average would be $8-12 per metre, and I think the most I've 
paid (for very fine, sheer linen) was probably $18/m. 

I've never bought linen online-- because I live outside the US, whatever 
savings I make on price would be swallowed by shipping.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 

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>Then there's the bonnet to make, and a turban for the ball (my hair is
>too short for an up-do.

>So, what do you think?

Hope
A bonnet is always lovely. Bigger is better. <grin>  I quite forget
exactly which year(s) you've focused on, but happily for us
short-haired chicks, short hair was fashionable from time to time. 
I'm particularly fond of the "Coif a la Titus", which, more or less,
is bobbed hair in teensy tight curls all over the head.  Thrill!  I
find turbans a bit warm, so I'll strongly recommend that make yours in
silk. Check around you may even find that a filet band will work,
keeping you cooler yet suitably coifed. Dont forget jewelry and a
charming shawl.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1st Regency
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In a message dated 8/18/2005 5:56:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cinbarnes@gmail.com writes:

I'm  particularly fond of the "Coif a la Titus", which, more or less,
is bobbed  hair in teensy tight curls all over the head. 


I've also seen it sans curls...basically short hair brushed forward. But  
tortured curls adds a "period" element that sends a distinct "this is not of our  
current aesthetic" message.
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Celebration!
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> I've also heard of goose-turd green in its French equivalent, merde d'oie 
> (a dark olive-green, for those that don't know).


Actually, we usually hear "caca d'oie" (same thing). I've never heard it 
used with "merde". Not heard often, but certainly still in use. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen prices
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 18:50:32 -0400
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At regular fabric store chains, it's marked 25$CDN/meter. I never buy unless 
it goes down to 15, and then only if I REALLY need it now. Besides, most of 
the times it's way too heavy to be of much use to me.

At other more local fabric stores, it's usually between 10-14$. But I don't 
buy there because there's no way to know if it's linen or not.

Online, usually around 10$US (I buy at denverfabric and fabric.com) for 
coloured, and a little less for white (I buy at fabrics-store.com, but watch 
out some of their stuff is very slubby).

Local SCA merchant sells it for 14$CDN/meter - fair price. When I buy 
online, after having paid the exchange rate and shipping, it comes to that 
anyway.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kahlara" <kahlara@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2005 1:40 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Linen prices


>I know there are people from all over on the list -
> but on average what would you expect to pay per yard
> for a nice linen? ...either at a fabric store or
> online.
>
> Annette M
> (living in the no man's land of fabric stores)
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
> Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
> _______________________________________________
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Congratulations, Penny!  I didn't fall out of my chair because I had every
confidence you'd succeed with the project.  I remember well when you started
this project and the on-going conversations via the list thereafter.  You
were "into" it so deeply and enthusiastically that I didn't work on my own
studies each night until after I'd read the entries.  (Shame on me!)  WOW!
Keep up the good work, please.
Meg

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 4:31 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Celebration!


The old-timers on the list, just fell of their chairs... yes, it really has
been  ten years.


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I will be back online.  I have gone 48 hours on 2 hours of sleep... 
allergies went into a sinus infection.  Many thanks to those who have 
written me and I promise to answer as soon as I get some sleep.

BTW, Danielle's definition of Dead Spaniard is correct.

Off to watch the new Merchant of Venice and hoping it will put me to 
sleep... if I can stop coughing.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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A friend points me to this page:

http://www.gallimauphry.com/PD/gateway3.html

The Italian Renaissance ones aren't bad -- mostly based on paintings I can
recognize. The Gawain set is straight out of Norris, oh well, but still
"pretty." The Plantagenets marginally better. Much more here, most of it
amusing if you don't take it very seriously.

--Robin




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robin@nightowl.net
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1333
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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Subject: [h-cost] Storing Outfits
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I have a question about storage.  I do not store my historic clothing on 
hangers mostly, I fold or roll up and put into cloth bags that i make 
for each outfit (the bag has a listing of each part of the outfit and 
what needs to brought along that is not in the bag), then I put the bags 
into plastic tots.  However, sometimes they get a little funny smelling, 
and I would like to make sure that bugs do not get into them. 

Does anyone have any advise about storing outfits?  A couple of years 
ago, I made little bags of lavender and such and put those in, which 
smell nice, but I am not sure if they do anything to keep bugs away....

Jordana
p.s. Some dresses I fold over at the waist and hang from pants clasp 
hangers  --> mostly before I hem the dress I like to leave it like that 
for a couple of weeks to get any stretch out.... not sure if it makes a 
difference, just have never had any problems doing that, so i figure 
that i might as well keep doing it.


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Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 07:35:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen prices, and a question
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Most recently I have bought approx. 10 metres each of medium weight white and black linen for AUS$8.00, which is a *very* good price - most nice linen starts at a minimum of AUS$20-25/metre. I plan to use it for soldiers shirts and linings. I have paid AUS$40/metre for enough handkerchief linen to make an ECW kerchief - I was in a hurry ( the day before an event! ;-} ), and this particular specialty quilting shop was the only place that I had ever seen handkerchief linen.

A question - should linen rip in the same way that you can rip cotton from selvedge to selvedge/along the grain? If it should, does the fact that some linen doesn't indicate that it isn't qood quality linen? 

Yours in curiousity,
Joannah in Brisbane, Australia 

--- Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 10:40:57 -0700 (PDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Linen prices

I know there are people from all over on the list -
but on average what would you expect to pay per yard
for a nice linen? ...either at a fabric store or
online.

Annette M
(living in the no man's land of fabric stores)


		
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On 8/19/05, Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net> wrote:
> A question - should linen rip in the same way that you can rip cotton from selvedge to selvedge/along the grain? If it should, does the fact that some linen doesn't indicate that it isn't qood quality linen?

I try to avoid ripping linen - when I did, it produced much more
distorted, stretched edges than on cotton.  Maybe its just that my
linens are heavier than the cottons that rip easily, I just know it
doesn't work well for me.

Catrijn

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen prices, and a question
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At 07:35 AM 8/19/2005, you wrote:
>[snip]
>
>A question - should linen rip in the same way that you can rip 
>cotton from selvedge to selvedge/along the grain? If it should, does 
>the fact that some linen doesn't indicate that it isn't qood quality linen?
>
>Yours in curiousity,
>Joannah in Brisbane, Australia

  When I cut linen, I draw a thread out and cut along the space.  I 
must admit that I have not tried to tear linen since linen is much 
stronger than cotton. Given than the flax fibers in good linen are 
rather long (several inches) and strong, I wouldn't want to try to 
tear the actual fibers; cotton fibers are very short (long-staple 
cotton is only 1-1/2 to 2 inches) and when you tear cotton cloth, you 
actually pull the fibers apart rather than rip them.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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A series of vintage-to-modern photos here:

http://www.gallimauphry.com/april_2005.html

(This page is by the same guy who did the paper dolls I posted about last
night.)

--Robin


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From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
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Congratulations on the database.  It's wonderful when you can make a long-tern dream come true!  Especially with sinuses. AND everything else you do.

and Linnen.

1.  I used to cut on the pulled thread.  The linnen I used to get could ONLY be put asunder by doing it this way.  You simply could not tear it across the grain.  

2.  The last couple of batches I got you CAN tear it ahd have it say on the straight grain.  ?? what it that about.

3.  the very last batch I got (at Mary JOs fabric wonderland near Charlotte, NC) behaved strangely.  It looks like linnen, the very nice, not too slubby at all,  like the holland samples in Salley Queen's 18 cent Fabric sample book.  It tested out as linen with the burn test.  It wasn't quite as wrinkly and crisp as some of the linnen I've used and seen.  When I got it home, it doesn't hold starch (this is hard to explain, It just doesn't crisp up like some of the other linens I've used.) and it's got almost a powdery feel to it when I do the hand work.  And it has an unfortunate tendancy to HOLE, or pull when I rip stiches out.   Very strange.

 

Mia in Charlotte, NC


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Mia, are you sure it is linen and not a linen/rayon blend or a
linen/cotton blend?

mary jo's is *EVIL* :)

-Irmgart (in Durham, NC)

On 8/19/05, Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com> wrote:

> 
> 3.  the very last batch I got (at Mary JOs fabric wonderland near Charlotte, NC) behaved strangely.  It looks like linnen, the very nice, not too slubby at all,  like the holland samples in Salley Queen's 18 cent Fabric sample book.  It tested out as linen with the burn test.  It wasn't quite as wrinkly and crisp as some of the linnen I've used and seen.  When I got it home, it doesn't hold starch (this is hard to explain, It just doesn't crisp up like some of the other linens I've used.) and it's got almost a powdery feel to it when I do the hand work.  And it has an unfortunate tendancy to HOLE, or pull when I rip stiches out.   Very strange.
> 
> 
> 
> Mia in Charlotte, NC
> 
> 
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And she wasn't producing male heirs one after the other. Not her
fault, but the French just couldn't understand a King that was faithful
to his wife as Louis XVI. And a king that wasn't that interested in sex
was something nearly impossible at the time, especially to the French,
who were very used to Kings bedhopping--it was almost expected.
 
Her husband wasn't disintered in sex-he was incapable of it. And once his problem had been fixed their first born apparently suffered from progeria, so maybe he shouldn't have had kids

Carol


Carol Mitchell listowner Costumemidwest www.yahoogroups.com/group/costumemidwest
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From: Jacqueline Johnson <kristalori@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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I am in the middle of reading Lady Fraser's Marie Antoinette -The
Journey published in 2001 ISBN 0-385-48948-X. Among other things she
shoots out of the water that whole things about Louis having that
surgery he supposedley had. It was propganda that had been circulated
to suggest he wasn't much of a man. Marie's brother Joseph simply came
along and gave him a man to man talk on the birds and the bees and the
neccesity of a royal line. Louis was disinclined to sex odd for the
grandson of the other Louis who was such a naughty boy.
 
 
Bice

On 8/19/05, Carol Mitchell <carolscostuming5@yahoo.com> wrote:
> And she wasn't producing male heirs one after the other. Not her
> fault, but the French just couldn't understand a King that was faithful
> to his wife as Louis XVI. And a king that wasn't that interested in sex
> was something nearly impossible at the time, especially to the French,
> who were very used to Kings bedhopping--it was almost expected.
> 
> Her husband wasn't disintered in sex-he was incapable of it. And once his problem had been fixed their first born apparently suffered from progeria, so maybe he shouldn't have had kids
> 
> Carol

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> Does anyone have any advise about storing outfits?  A couple of years ago, 
> I made little bags of lavender and such and put those in, which smell 
> nice, but I am not sure if they do anything to keep bugs away....

I know some people get the cedar chips they sell at pet stores and make 
little bags. I've heard lavender works well too, though. 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 17:28:50 -0500
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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We will probably never know for certain what was propaganda and what was
fact in the whole Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette relationship. Anyway, a
French King(or indeed very few European male rulers, period)wasn't
faithful to poor Queen Consort as a rule.

Marie Antoinette had a lot of strikes against her.

She was foreign-born and meddled in French/Austrian politics enough
apparently--and that was a no-no for any Queen Consort of any
country--to earn unpopularity among the all the Estates(aristocracy,
Church, and everyone else). The French, especially, were used to Queen
Consorts that practically lived quietly apart from the court, didn't
meddle in politics(at least not openly)and only made necessary public
appearances, ideally with a lot of princes and a princess or two in tow.
Consorts like Anne of Austria or Eleanor of Aquitaine were not the
preferred model.



She was pretty, outgoing, and for many years, childless.  Naturally, not
being constantly pregnant and kicking out an heir, preferably male, was
the woman's fault. Keeping late hours, indulging in a lot of physical
activity(if you were of the leisure class), primarily horseback riding,
and keeping one's mind on fashion and frivolity was all considered
non-condusive to child-bearing, if one were female.


And she wasn't well-educated--the female mind in most persons view,
wasn't equipped to handle the curriculum that didn't even exist for
future Queen Consorts. It doesn't even exist today--witness the very
public trials of the late Princess Diana within the British royal
family. Being royal if one wasn't born into it, was always an uphill
battle, learn as you go, with little or no help, and no guidebook.

The first living child of Marie and Louis was a girl and she lived well
into the 19th century. Pushed into an unhappy marriage by Louis XVIII,
she survived as a history footnote.

It will be interesting to find out how historically correctly costumed
Sophia Coppola's movie on Marie Antoinette(set to release sometime in
2006) will be.

Cindy Abel

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Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 18:46:56 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Storing Outfits
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For the person wondering how to properly store her antique clothing,
check out the National Park Service Conserv O Grams

http://www.cr.nps.gov/museum/publications/conserveogram/conserv.html

What are Conserve O Grams?

They are short, focused leaflets about caring for museum objects,
published in loose-leaf format. You can download and print these from
their web site.

There is lots of useful information here. I recommend especially
  4/5 Storage Techniques for Hanging Garments: Padded Hangers  4/15
Storage Techniques for Hanging Garments: Dust Covers and 
16/1 Causes, Detection, and Prevention of Mold and Mildew on Textiles

There is no charge.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2005 5:19 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storing Outfits


> Does anyone have any advise about storing outfits?  A couple of years 
> ago,
> I made little bags of lavender and such and put those in, which smell 
> nice, but I am not sure if they do anything to keep bugs away....

I know some people get the cedar chips they sell at pet stores and make 
little bags. I've heard lavender works well too, though. 
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Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 23:56:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen prices, and a question
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Thank-you, I wondered if it was something like that. I gave up trying to rip linen, by the way, and generally use the drawn thread method. It was just a question that occurred to me when the linen topic came up.

Joannah.

--- Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:

From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 09:30:24 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen prices, and a question

At 07:35 AM 8/19/2005, you wrote:
>[snip]
>
>A question - should linen rip in the same way that you can rip 
>cotton from selvedge to selvedge/along the grain? If it should, does 
>the fact that some linen doesn't indicate that it isn't qood quality linen?
>
>Yours in curiousity,
>Joannah in Brisbane, Australia

  When I cut linen, I draw a thread out and cut along the space.  I 
must admit that I have not tried to tear linen since linen is much 
stronger than cotton. Given than the flax fibers in good linen are 
rather long (several inches) and strong, I wouldn't want to try to 
tear the actual fibers; cotton fibers are very short (long-staple 
cotton is only 1-1/2 to 2 inches) and when you tear cotton cloth, you 
actually pull the fibers apart rather than rip them.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1e3.422a4ecb.30348d0d@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Martha McCain pattern (cross post)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2005 17:18:12 +1000
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Martha McCain pattern (cross post)


>
> In a message dated 8/16/2005 11:26:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> ewalpole@tpg.com.au writes:
>
> I was  just looking at the Simplicity website and it appears that there's
> another  Martha McCain ACW pattern #4400
>
>
> Not bad. Looks like Scarlet's dress she wears thru the Reconstruction. I
> prefer the fuller sleeves. I just don't see many tight sleeves in 1860s
> pics....actually I can't remember seeing ANY. [1840s is another matter]
and the
> shallow point is very 1850s to me. The cartridge pleating all the way
'round is
> also very 1840-50s.  Most 1860s  day dresses have  waistlines that go
straight
> across, with the bodice closing CF and the waistband  of the attached
skirt in
> flat pleats closing a little left of CF, hidden in  a pleat with a hidden
> pocket there.
>
> But y'know...never say never....

I'll admit the narrow sleeves are not terribly common but they do turn up
e.g. http://snipurl.com/h35y [1] the sleeves are still moderately full but
not incredibly so, http://snipurl.com/h35z [2] they all have narrow sleeves
but especially the woman in black, http://snipurl.com/h362 [3] the woman on
the left, and http://snipurl.com/h366 [4] very similar to the design with
two puffs but the puffs are larger and more droopy this is also an example
of a pointed waist and the woman on the right has a fully pleated skirt.
As for the pointed waistline, looking at these fashion plates I see as many
pointed waistlines around 1858-60 as I do horizontal waistlines, by about
1862 the pointed waistline has died out in favour of the horizontal
waistline. e.g. http://snipurl.com/h36b [5], http://snipurl.com/h36c [6],
http://snipurl.com/h36f [7] though this one's a zouave style so maybe it's a
special case, http://snipurl.com/h36g [8],  http://snipurl.com/h36i [9]  and
http://snipurl.com/h36j [10]
So I'm not sure about combining the elements (though no. 4 does) as the
sleeves are generally mid 1860s and the bodice is late 50s to early 60s, but
the bodice would certainly suit somebody up to c 1863 who is a year or two
behind the fashions and for those who are up to date on the latest fashions
it could be a dress which is a couple of years old as this style is not so
easily altered as the peplum style bodices if you have cut the skirt to
accomodate the point of the bodice (instead of just folding it down).
Elizabeth

P.S. If the snipped URLs don't work the full URLs are
1.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=154&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
2.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=156&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
3.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=153&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
4.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=143&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
5.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=421&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
6.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=128&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
7.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=151&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTM
P=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
8.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=110&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
9.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=129&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
10.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=102&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTM
P=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20050819235628.D0BBB0F4@dm21.mta.everyone.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen prices, and a question
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2005 03:23:07 -0400
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I have to laugh here... I have been seeing in stores candles that when lit 
that smell like linen.  So all you fabricoloics you better go get some!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2005 10:59:19 -0400
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On Friday 19 August 2005 5:54 pm, Jacqueline Johnson wrote:
> I am in the middle of reading Lady Fraser's Marie Antoinette -The
> Journey published in 2001 ISBN 0-385-48948-X. Among other things she
> shoots out of the water that whole things about Louis having that
> surgery he supposedley had. It was propganda that had been circulated
> to suggest he wasn't much of a man. Marie's brother Joseph simply came
> along and gave him a man to man talk on the birds and the bees and the
> neccesity of a royal line. Louis was disinclined to sex odd for the
> grandson of the other Louis who was such a naughty boy.

Maybe not so odd.  Louis certainly knew of his grandsire's conduct, and may 
have been disgusted at the thought of performing such acts himself.

> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2005 13:02:48 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Martha McCain pattern (cross post)
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In a message dated 8/20/2005 3:19:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ewalpole@tpg.com.au writes:

http://snipurl.com/h35y    http://snipurl.com/h35z  


These don't look narrow to me. Granted they aren't pagoda  sleeves....they're 
NARROWER.... but I'd not say they are fitted at  all. And the other examples 
are all split at the bottom to give that bell shape  with the engagent or 
poofed to have a full silhouette...the effect of the blue  dress with the two 
upper arm poofs. The trend is definitely to have fullness on  the arm.
 
And the skirts are flat pleated.
 
BUT...like I say...never say never.
 
The other thing is, fashion plates are fashion plates. The real dresses  I've 
seen are usually full of sleeve and sans point.
 
I don't mean to sound argument here...just letting you know where I'm  coming 
from.
 
I'm sure we'll both agree that in the early 60s sleeves are generally full  
and the point from the 50s is still around. This tends towards a narrower [but  
not fitted] sleeve and a straight waistline as the decade progresses. 
Also, that the Simplicity pattern is right good and well worth  having.
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From: Pam Dotson <dotsontwo@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Celebration!
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It just doesn't seem possible for it to be 10 years!  If I had to guess how long it had been, I'd have guessed 5 or 6.  But you just don't forget it when you see "What color is Dead Spaniard?"

Pam Dotson


		
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Subject: [h-cost] Getting wrinkles out of dyed wool 
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Hi:
Does anybody know of a way to get stubborn wrinkles out of wool?
I dyed a piece of 100% wool cloth on the stove top, and I'm worried that the
wrinkles have "set". Ironing has got some out, but others are staying there.
Would a dry-cleaner be able to steam them out?
Any clues?
Rebecca
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Subject: [h-cost] Tales from the Green Valley
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Did any UK list members see the first episode of this new series? It's what we've all been longing for; a historical reconstruction series using experts instead of whingeing, bickering members of the public. Five people are working an early 17th century farm; they don't know how to do everything straight away, but they know what sort of thing to expect and are used to working in period costume. Great stuff!
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tales from the Green Valley
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At 12:16 22/08/2005, you wrote:
>Did any UK list members see the first episode of this new series? 
>It's what we've all been longing for; a historical reconstruction 
>series using experts instead of whingeing, bickering members of the 
>public. Five people are working an early 17th century farm; they 
>don't know how to do everything straight away, but they know what 
>sort of thing to expect and are used to working in period costume. Great stuff!
>
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor


Me! Me! I was delighted, except for the lady's corset, which was 
straight from Janet Arnold, but I guess would have been worn for some 
years into the 17th century if you were not living in a city where 
fashion moved on. But no complaints or whines about linen and wool 
clothing, or even having to wear a corset, just comments about how 
things felt. I have my next eleven Fridays already booked. (For those 
who don't know, they are showing one programme for each month of the 
farming year, starting in September.

Suzi


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Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 07:41:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting wrinkles out of dyed wool
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Hi:
> Does anybody know of a way to get stubborn wrinkles out of wool?
> I dyed a piece of 100% wool cloth on the stove top, and I'm worried that
> the
> wrinkles have "set". Ironing has got some out, but others are staying
> there.
> Would a dry-cleaner be able to steam them out?
> Any clues?

I have a *clue* but no experience.

If hot water created them, maybe hot water can get them out.  I think
trying to steam it at a drycleaners would be a good first step and after
that, maybe try the stove top again.

Good luck!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting wrinkles out of dyed wool
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Quoting Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>:

> 
> > Hi:
> > Does anybody know of a way to get stubborn wrinkles out of wool?
> > I dyed a piece of 100% wool cloth on the stove top, and I'm worried that
> > the
> > wrinkles have "set". Ironing has got some out, but others are staying
> > there.
> > Would a dry-cleaner be able to steam them out?
> > Any clues?
> 

Did you try pressing them out with a damp (not soggy) pressing cloth and a hot
iron?  I usually use a dry iron and press until the cloth is dry.  This is quite
easy with flat fabric and a bit annoying with garments, but it's always worked
for getting out wrinkles in wool.

- Ynes

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tales from the Green Valley
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 You lucky people across the pond!! I read about this series in a recent
issue of BBC History and hope it will come to the U.S. eventually to our
PBS stations or perhaps A&E or the History Channel. I don't think it
will be soon--it took quite a while for Regency House Party to come to
our shores.

But from what I read in BBC History, it is actually historical expert
specialists that are having to live for months as if they were in the
1620s, not a bunch of people without much knowledge of history chosen
and thrown together like our "Colonial House" which was kind of
"Survivor: 1625" They get help and guidence from other history experts.
Like a specialist in 17th century costume has to learn to care for
animals on the farm, etc.

If they do show it over here, our programmer will probably have to to
change the title from "Tales from Green Valley" to 17th Century House,
least viewers think it is a farming show, or at best, an offshoot of
"All Creatures Great and Small" or a dramatization of the life of
Beatrix Potter.

Cindy Abel

 
 

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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tales from the Green Valley
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Which channel airs it? if it is bbc I might be able to see it over the internet, would be nice.
 
Tania

Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
At 12:16 22/08/2005, you wrote:
>Did any UK list members see the first episode of this new series? 
>It's what we've all been longing for; a historical reconstruction 
>series using experts instead of whingeing, bickering members of the 
>public. Five people are working an early 17th century farm; they 
>don't know how to do everything straight away, but they know what 
>sort of thing to expect and are used to working in period costume. Great stuff!
>
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor


Me! Me! I was delighted, except for the lady's corset, which was 
straight from Janet Arnold, but I guess would have been worn for some 
years into the 17th century if you were not living in a city where 
fashion moved on. But no complaints or whines about linen and wool 
clothing, or even having to wear a corset, just comments about how 
things felt. I have my next eleven Fridays already booked. (For those 
who don't know, they are showing one programme for each month of the 
farming year, starting in September.

Suzi


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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tales from the Green Valley
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At 16:28 22/08/2005, you wrote:
>Which channel airs it? if it is bbc I might be able to see it over 
>the internet, would be nice.

It is BBC 2, on a Friday at 7.30 our time.

And to Cindy's comment - Yes, at last the powers-that-be have 
cottoned on to the idea that it just *might* be interesting to see 
experts doing their thing in a real life setting. I have seen, for 
example, the man who owns and works the oxen in another period 
situation. (Pulling a cart for the Globe one Christmas, but that is 
another story.) Unfortunately, for "Health and Safety reasons" (!!!) 
they are not allowed to sleep overnight in the farm house.

>
>Tania
>
>Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>At 12:16 22/08/2005, you wrote:
> >Did any UK list members see the first episode of this new series?
> >It's what we've all been longing for; a historical reconstruction
> >series using experts instead of whingeing, bickering members of the
> >public. Five people are working an early 17th century farm; they
> >don't know how to do everything straight away, but they know what
> >sort of thing to expect and are used to working in period costume. 
> Great stuff!
> >
> >Kate Bunting
> >Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
>
>Me! Me! I was delighted, except for the lady's corset, which was
>straight from Janet Arnold, but I guess would have been worn for some
>years into the 17th century if you were not living in a city where
>fashion moved on. But no complaints or whines about linen and wool
>clothing, or even having to wear a corset, just comments about how
>things felt. I have my next eleven Fridays already booked. (For those
>who don't know, they are showing one programme for each month of the
>farming year, starting in September.
>
>Suzi
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tales from the Green Valley
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My first thought was that this was based on that "How Green Was My Valley" 
movie from the 40s.  For a split second there, I was trying to figure out 
how on earth that could possibly be turned into a reality series... "And 
Ronald has survived the longest in the coal mine without getting gastric 
cancer!  He wins a brand new Kia Sportage!"

Does the show have a website?  I looked on the BBC website but according to 
their search engine, the show doesn't exist.

-E House 

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BEA6A7E18959A04385DC14D24619F89F5E3C05@sagemsg0008.sagemsmrd01.sa.gov.au><1056.67.188.164.116.1124721714.squirrel@www.inreach.com>
	<1124722622.4309e7be24069@webmail.itasca.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting wrinkles out of dyed wool
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 13:57:34 -0500
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One of the ways I deal with wool in general is to hand wash it, then let it 
drip about halfway dry.  When it's no longer dripping all over everything, 
but still damp, I iron it dry, which gets rid of any wrinkles without fear 
of water spots.  It works best with worsteds, though, because with woolens 
it'll stretch the fabric out noticeably... fine if you plan to dryclean, but 
not so great if it'd mean you'd have to iron the gown dry each time you wash 
it!

-E House


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BBC2 (Unfortunately there doesn't appear to be a website for the series.)
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> tania_gr17@yahoo.com 22/08/2005 16:28 >>>

Which channel airs it? if it is bbc I might be able to see it over the internet, would be nice.

Tania


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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Getting wrinkles out of dyed wool
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I am not sure this will work with wool, it does with linen.
 
Mist the fabric generously with clean water and put in a plastic bag for a couple of hours, then iron. The stay in the plastic will ensure that everything is damp.
 
Tania

Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com> wrote:

> Hi:
> Does anybody know of a way to get stubborn wrinkles out of wool?
> I dyed a piece of 100% wool cloth on the stove top, and I'm worried that
> the
> wrinkles have "set". Ironing has got some out, but others are staying
> there.
> Would a dry-cleaner be able to steam them out?
> Any clues?

I have a *clue* but no experience.

If hot water created them, maybe hot water can get them out. I think
trying to steam it at a drycleaners would be a good first step and after
that, maybe try the stove top again.

Good luck!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tales from the Green Valley
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At 20:10 22/08/2005, you wrote:
>My first thought was that this was based on that "How Green Was My 
>Valley" movie from the 40s.  For a split second there, I was trying 
>to figure out how on earth that could possibly be turned into a 
>reality series... "And Ronald has survived the longest in the coal 
>mine without getting gastric cancer!  He wins a brand new Kia Sportage!"
>
>Does the show have a website?  I looked on the BBC website but 
>according to their search engine, the show doesn't exist.
>
>-E House


Try this - I haven't read much of it, but it might help.

http://www.petersommer.com/tv_tales.html

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Information re wool weaves - simple please!
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I have been asked to reproduce a garment for a museum. A pattern has 
been made copying some original fragments, which were of "tabby 
weave" wool. Could somebody please, in layman's terms, tell me what 
tabby weave looks like. (I do not need to know *how* it was woven 
right now.) I need to find a modern wool that resembles it, and I 
don't know what I am looking for.

Please don't give me names of wool unless you know they are English. 
I have not had time to write that American/English costume dictionary 
that I have been threatening since I first arrived in America with a 
theatre wardrobe and couldn't buy scissors the size I wanted till I 
discovered they are called shears!!

Suzi


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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Information re wool weaves - simple please!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Tabby is another name for plain weave, regular over
one, under one.

-I-I-I-I
I-I-I-I-
-I-I-I-I

If you wove a potholder out of knit-fabric loops, the
weave you used is tabby or plain weave.

Ann in CT

--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> 
> 
> I have been asked to reproduce a garment for a
> museum. A pattern has 
> been made copying some original fragments, which
> were of "tabby 
> weave" wool. Could somebody please, in layman's
> terms, tell me what 
> tabby weave looks like. (I do not need to know *how*
> it was woven 
> right now.) I need to find a modern wool that
> resembles it, and I 
> don't know what I am looking for.
> 
> Please don't give me names of wool unless you know
> they are English. 
> I have not had time to write that American/English
> costume dictionary 
> that I have been threatening since I first arrived
> in America with a 
> theatre wardrobe and couldn't buy scissors the size
> I wanted till I 
> discovered they are called shears!!
> 
> Suzi
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Yes! Yes!  wasn't it great!  Real re-enacting, telling us the things 
they already know and the things they find out by doing.

I found it interesting that the "maidservant" was doing the work with 
the horse, principally because she knows horses better than any of the 
others. And the two "farm labourers" are archeologists, I'm assuming 
they are used to long days of digging so they're fit enough for the 
work.

Ruth, the "farmer's wife", has done work with The Tudor Group - I 
remember her doing a lecture on swaddling at Kirby Hall one year - so 
maybe she had her own corset that she knew was comfortable and reckoned 
would be close enough to the date to live with.

Looking forward to Fridays from now on!

Jean




Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote
>Did any UK list members see the first episode of this new series? It's 
>what we've all been longing for; a historical reconstruction series 
>using experts instead of whingeing, bickering members of the public. 
>Five people are working an early 17th century farm; they don't know how 
>to do everything straight away, but they know what sort of thing to 
>expect and are used to working in period costume. Great stuff!
>
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Information re wool weaves - simple please!
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 17:54:31 -0500
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As Ann said, it's a plain, one over/one under weave.  Unfortunately, that's 
such a general description that if they want you to match the original 
fabric, you need a lot more information!  Woolen? Worsted? Fine? Coarse? 
shot/crossdye/changeable? 'Tabby' doesn't answer any of that, but could 
include any of the above and more.

-E House 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Information re wool weaves - simple please!
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At 03:06 PM 8/22/2005, you wrote:


>I have been asked to reproduce a garment for a museum. A pattern has 
>been made copying some original fragments, which were of "tabby 
>weave" wool. Could somebody please, in layman's terms, tell me what 
>tabby weave looks like. (I do not need to know *how* it was woven 
>right now.) I need to find a modern wool that resembles it, and I 
>don't know what I am looking for.
>
>Please don't give me names of wool unless you know they are English. 
>I have not had time to write that American/English costume 
>dictionary that I have been threatening since I first arrived in 
>America with a theatre wardrobe and couldn't buy scissors the size I 
>wanted till I discovered they are called shears!!
>
>Suzi

"Tabby weave" simply means "woven over 1, under 1".  Most plain linen 
is tabby woven.  Avoid gabardine or twills.  In order to find 
something that resembles the original, you will need to have the 
threads per inch in the warp and in the weft in order to find the right weight.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Information re wool weaves - simple please!
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At 00:29 23/08/2005, you wrote:
>At 03:06 PM 8/22/2005, you wrote:
>
>
>>I have been asked to reproduce a garment for a museum. A pattern 
>>has been made copying some original fragments, which were of "tabby 
>>weave" wool. Could somebody please, in layman's terms, tell me what 
>>tabby weave looks like. (I do not need to know *how* it was woven 
>>right now.) I need to find a modern wool that resembles it, and I 
>>don't know what I am looking for.
>>
>>Please don't give me names of wool unless you know they are 
>>English. I have not had time to write that American/English costume 
>>dictionary that I have been threatening since I first arrived in 
>>America with a theatre wardrobe and couldn't buy scissors the size 
>>I wanted till I discovered they are called shears!!
>>
>>Suzi
>
>"Tabby weave" simply means "woven over 1, under 1".  Most plain 
>linen is tabby woven.  Avoid gabardine or twills.  In order to find 
>something that resembles the original, you will need to have the 
>threads per inch in the warp and in the weft in order to find the right weight.


Thanks to all who answered. Very clear answers and in the simple form 
I asked for - I knew one (or more!) of you folks would be able to 
help. I would hope to get to look at the fragments before I actually 
make the thing, but need, as usual with museums, to give a quote 
sight unseen, so I needed to know what sort of wool I was looking 
for. (I have the Textiles book from the Museum of London, but to an 
non-weaver like me I'm afraid it didn't make a lot of sense.)  I can 
go off tomorrow to my favourite shops and search for tabby woven wool 
with some idea of what it should look like.

Suzi


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Status: RO

Thanks, Suzi. I, too, had searched the BBC website but could only find it mentioned in the listings. Typical that TV companies make a big fanfare over all the standard "historical reconstruction" programmes, but not this really worthwhile one (though there was a feature in "Radio Times").
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> suzi@suziclarke.co.uk 22/08/2005 22:59 >>>

At 20:10 22/08/2005, you wrote:
>
>Does the show have a website?  I looked on the BBC website but 
>according to their search engine, the show doesn't exist.
>
>-E House


Try this - I haven't read much of it, but it might help.

http://www.petersommer.com/tv_tales.html

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Dorset buttons
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Hi. I know how to make these up, in theory. However, does anybody 
know where I can buy them ready made? The source can be in the U.S. 
as the customer is also in the U.S.

Suzi


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Suzi - 

Wooded Hamlet Designs carries very nice Dorset buttons at a very reasonable price.
http://www.woodedhamlet.com/buttons_clasps/dorset_thread_buttons.html

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2 -5, 2006




On Tue Aug 23  4:53 , Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> sent:

>Hi. I know how to make these up, in theory. However, does anybody 
>know where I can buy them ready made? The source can be in the U.S. 
>as the customer is also in the U.S.


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dorset buttons
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At 13:23 23/08/2005, you wrote:
>Suzi -
>
>Wooded Hamlet Designs carries very nice Dorset buttons at a very 
>reasonable price.
>http://www.woodedhamlet.com/buttons_clasps/dorset_thread_buttons.html
>
>Carolann Schmitt
>cschmitt@genteelarts.com
>www.genteelarts.com
>Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2 -5, 2006
>


Thanks Carolann - they look just what I need.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] OT-SF
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Because many costumers read SF and fantasy, I thought people might be 
interested in the UK publisher PS Publishing.  They have an excellent 
magazine titled "PostScripts," and they also publish novellas.  Their 
editing and production are fully professional--even "PostScripts" is a 
good-quality paperbound book.  They publish a number of big-name 
authors, as well as excellent ones I've never heard of before.  They do 
sell to the US, and their service is efficient.  Their URL is:

http://www.pspublishing.co.uk

I have absolutely no connection with this publisher except as a customer 
and reader of their books.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Album Amicorum: separate sleeves?
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Hello

I am reconstructing the Florentine lady of the Album
Amicorum
http://snipurl.com/h5yn

So far I have established that I will require an
appropriate shift, corset, one-piece overgown (with
waist seam, shoulder rolls and possibly long 'fake'
sleeves, open and tied behind), rope-underskirt or
farthingale, 'decorative' skirt and ruff.  

What I'm uncertain about is whether the sleeves shown
(which appear to be white) are part of a complete gown
beneath the 'doublet' style gown or whether they are
likely to have been pinned or tied on. I suppose this
will also affect the 'decorative' skirt - if it is
part of a complete gown then it will have to be
attached...

This is much later than anything else I've tried and
I'm feeling pretty out of my depth. Any advice at all
is very useful!!

Many thanks,

Katherine


		
___________________________________________________________ 
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Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 08:54:15 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Album Amicorum: separate sleeves?
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katherine sanders wrote:

>What I'm uncertain about is whether the sleeves shown
>(which appear to be white) are part of a complete gown
>beneath the 'doublet' style gown or whether they are
>likely to have been pinned or tied on. I suppose this
>will also affect the 'decorative' skirt - if it is
>part of a complete gown then it will have to be
>attached...
>  
>
Both the white sleeves and the white skirt visible under the red 
overgown are likely to be part of the undergown. 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20050823181433.90759.qmail@web25708.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Album Amicorum: separate sleeves?
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 09:58:56 +1200
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> I am reconstructing the Florentine lady of the Album
> Amicorum
> http://snipurl.com/h5yn

> What I'm uncertain about is whether the sleeves shown
> (which appear to be white) are part of a complete gown
> beneath the 'doublet' style gown or whether they are
> likely to have been pinned or tied on. I suppose this
> will also affect the 'decorative' skirt - if it is
> part of a complete gown then it will have to be
> attached...

Ahhh the old question... for my money there are a few ways to tackle this. I
had to explore a few ways myself for my Valois gown. Are those sleeves
connected to an underdoublet? Are the sewn in? Laced in?

Let's look at the evidence that we have:

Extant items:
kirtle from Northern Europe, sleeves laced in. This is a full under garment
but the sleeves are seperate. I'm thinking so one could change the sleeves
for a different look, or for easier cleaning/repair etc.

Dorothea Sabine's Spanish inspired gown. Fitted sleeves sewn in. This one is
closer to the date, but not so close to the area.

http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm
Girls' Spanish court gown, c1600. Fitted sleeves sewn in to the shoulders.
Closer to your place and time, but the sleeves match. and there is an over
gown.

Alcega's pattern books.
Generally the fitted sleeves are cut with a doublet. I don't know though if
there were times where one would buy fabric just for the sleeves. It's
possible.
http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/patterns.htm
The doublets however are not shown cut with skirts. The only skirted items
that aren't gowns are cuerpo baxo y vasquina (kirtles in effect, with low
square necklines and no sleeves.)

There are patterns for gored skirts as well as half circle skirts:



What I would do, to make the ensemble really usable is to make a matching
skirt, jerkin style underbodice and sleeves. Made so you can wear all the
layers if you wish, but also remove the jerkin style underbodice if you need
to.

This is what I'm doing for my Valois gown. I sewed both sets of sleeves to
the doublet bodice but that will be laced from now on. I'm also making a
jerkin to match my sleeves so that I can wear the under layers as a seperate
ensemble or with the main gown.
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm

My gown is earlier than yours but they are related to each other.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Album Amicorum: separate sleeves?
References: <20050823181433.90759.qmail@web25708.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
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Bummer! the url didn't work for me...I get what I think is probably the 
website, but no images at all.
--sue

katherine sanders wrote:

> Hello
> 
> I am reconstructing the Florentine lady of the Album
> Amicorum
> http://snipurl.com/h5yn


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Aug 23 21:31:49 2005
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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Album Amicorum: separate sleeves?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi Sue,
 
the image took a little while to load in my browser, but if you still can't see it I have the same image on my website. Here's the URL...
 
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/mygarb/FlorentineLady2.JPG
 
 
 
Bella
 


Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
Bummer! the url didn't work for me...I get what I think is probably the 
website, but no images at all.
--sue

katherine sanders wrote:

> Hello
> 
> I am reconstructing the Florentine lady of the Album
> Amicorum
> http://snipurl.com/h5yn

Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com 
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From: "Kerrie" <kerrie@joyfulfaith.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] IDing vintage buttons
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 21:55:53 -0400
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Hi all! De-lurking for a moment to ask a question on behalf of a friend. :)
She writes:

My SIL gave Sonny 2 buttons while we were home. They came from what was at
one time the largest button collection in the world (Guiness Book and all!)
<snip>
one is a no kidding seal of the President, confusion as to the actual
President, she said it was George's but the seal didn't exist then and the
other was supposed to be from George (Washington). It is metal pressed into
very worn leather. I will do some research and let you know what I find out.
I volunteer at one of George W's homes so that will be my starting point.
Does anyone know of a website documenting very old American buttons?
Mag

TIA for any info you can give!
Kerrie


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Hi:
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions on getting the wrinkles out. I'll try
ironing the damp cloth with a damp pressing sheet under it first, if that
doesn't work I'll put it back on the stove top, heat it up in water and iron
it dry. 
Hopefully this will fix it - I'd hate to have a dress that crumpled up every
time it got wet.
Rebecca

 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] IDing vintage buttons
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>Does anyone know of a website documenting very old American buttons?

I don't know of any website, but you could try writing to 
Williamsburg.  They know a lot about early American garments, and probably 
buttons too.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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WAAAAAAAH!!!  I wanna see it too! Anne


Me! Me! I was delighted, except for the lady's corset, which was 
straight from Janet Arnold, but I guess would have been worn for some 
years into the 17th century if you were not living in a city where 
fashion moved on. But no complaints or whines about linen and wool 
clothing, or even having to wear a corset, just comments about how 
things felt. I have my next eleven Fridays already booked. (For those 
who don't know, they are showing one programme for each month of the 
farming year, starting in September.

Suzi



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Oh my, when I delurk I do so with a vengeance - 2nd question in as many
days. ;)

Would anyone happen to know of any good sources for brocade patterns from
the 1790s (France)?  I thought I'd add a bit of texture to a costume I'm
working on and so far the only good sources I've been able to find are
Elizabethan.

Thanks so much!
Kerrie


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Oops, forgive my typo - that should read ___late 1690s___  !

Would anyone happen to know of any good sources for brocade patterns from
the 1790s (France)?  I thought I'd add a bit of texture to a costume I'm
working on and so far the only good sources I've been able to find are
Elizabethan.

Thanks so much!
Kerrie


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Subject: [h-cost] Bone buttons, was Dorset buttons
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At 13:23 23/08/2005, you wrote:
>Suzi -
>
>Wooded Hamlet Designs carries very nice Dorset buttons at a very 
>reasonable price.
>http://www.woodedhamlet.com/buttons_clasps/dorset_thread_buttons.html
>
>Carolann Schmitt
>cschmitt@genteelarts.com
>www.genteelarts.com
>Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2 -5, 2006


O.K. the customer has given me another option! (Don't you love it 
when they change their minds - ah bless!) Now I need to source small 
round bone buttons. Anybody help please?

Suzi (soaking wet after paddling round my favourite fabric shops, 
only to find a better source on line for ticking - grrr!)


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 17th cent brocades
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At 08:16 AM 8/24/2005, you wrote:
>Oh my, when I delurk I do so with a vengeance - 2nd question in as many
>days. ;)
>
>Would anyone happen to know of any good sources for brocade patterns from
>the 1790s (France)?  I thought I'd add a bit of texture to a costume I'm
>working on and so far the only good sources I've been able to find are
>Elizabethan.
>
>Thanks so much!
>Kerrie

Are you looking for actual fabrics to purchase, or simply references 
for fabric patterns?


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 17th century brocades (take 2)
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Oops, forgive my typo - that should read ___late 1690s___

Kerrie,

Once you find the types of patterns you need, take a look at
www.discountfabricsusa.com and let me know if you see any patterns that
might work for you.

I can offer you the fabric for *at least* half of what they list on their
website (their prices are more for decorators) and I can also order a
swatch so you can see it in person ahead of time.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 17th century brocades (take 2)
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Hi,
 
You might try http://www.reproductionfabrics.com/ .  They say just cotton, but you can ask.  
 
Also try http://www.ghostforge.com/.  SUPER nice people and great fabrics...
 
Chris G.

Kerrie <kerrie@joyfulfaith.com> wrote:
Oops, forgive my typo - that should read ___late 1690s___ !

Would anyone happen to know of any good sources for brocade patterns from
the 1790s (France)? I thought I'd add a bit of texture to a costume I'm
working on and so far the only good sources I've been able to find are
Elizabethan.

Thanks so much!
Kerrie


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**Caution. This link may contain material that is not suitable for 
viewing from your employer's internet connection.**


"FASHION: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century" Edited by the 
Kyoto Costume Institute. Two thick volumes in a slipcase. Originally 
published at $39.99. Taschen, 2005

http://budplant.com/product.asp?pn=FASH


I was wondering what proportion of the content was 18th century and what 
was 20th. Any comments?



Dawn





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Greetings, everyone! 

Please, I beg you, forgive this mass posting. After looking at the items
at this URL http://store.yahoo.com/discountfabricsusa/1dolehi.html , I
felt it would be a good thing to let folks know about the sale of hides
going on, as they are in limited supply. I am not affiliated with these
good folks, but have purchased from them in the past. If I have erred in
this posting, I do most humbly apologize

Lady Vilda Leusch
aka Kate McClure

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This is a two-volume reprint of the original "Fashion" which was about
720 pages. I have it. 20th century fashions, if I recall correctly, make
up over 1/3 of the book as there are more 20th century fashions in
existence than 18th and 19th.

Cindy Abel. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 12:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] have you read this costume book?

**Caution. This link may contain material that is not suitable for
viewing from your employer's internet connection.**


"FASHION: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century" Edited by the 
Kyoto Costume Institute. Two thick volumes in a slipcase. Originally 
published at $39.99. Taschen, 2005

http://budplant.com/product.asp?pn=FASH


I was wondering what proportion of the content was 18th century and what

was 20th. Any comments?



Dawn





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Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 12:00:05 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bone buttons, was Dorset buttons
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>O.K. the customer has given me another option! (Don't you love it when 
>they change their minds - ah bless!) Now I need to source small round bone 
>buttons. Anybody help please?

I don't think they make these anymore, but I have some.  E-mail me off-list.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>This is a two-volume reprint of the original "Fashion" which was about
>720 pages. I have it. 20th century fashions, if I recall correctly, make
>up over 1/3 of the book as there are more 20th century fashions in
>existence than 18th and 19th.

And there ought to be one from the 16thC too.  In the one-volume version 
it's a close-up only, of what used to be called the Devereaux Bodice.  Lots 
of amazing handwork in that close-up.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 20:06:25 +0100 (BST)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Album Amicorum: separate sleeves?
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Many thanks for all your help - Michaela, your
research is awesome and I /love/ your Spanish gown.
Wow. I forgot, also, that Bella had made a gown
similar to this one! What can I say, brain addled by
DIY and not enough sewing :-)

I think on balance I'll go on your recommendation to
make an 'under jerkin' bodice which I could leave off
if necessary, (since despite living in Scotland I get
freakishly hot. Too much yang or something.) plus
sleeves and a skirt, below an outer gown with shoulder
rolls and ruff.

I was looking closely at the sketch again and noticed
there are tiny gold bands going horizontlly around the
sleeves, just like the clearer oil portraits of the
time, which are hiding beneath what I thought were
lines to indicate shading. That will decide on the
type of fabric/embroidery I do on them at least.

Many thanks again, time for more research before I
bother the list about another imponderable.

Katherine


		
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] IDing vintage buttons
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Thanks so much, I'll pass it on!

Kerrie



|-----Original Message-----

|I don't know of any website, but you could try writing to
|Williamsburg.  They know a lot about early American garments, and probably
|buttons too.
| CarolynKayta Barrows
|


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I was looking mainly for references. Even some good book citations would be
wonderful as I'm fairly close to an excellent research library, but good
sources for purchase are always welcome too! :)

Kerrie

|-----Original Message-----
|>Would anyone happen to know of any good sources for brocade patterns from
|>the 1790s (France)?
|
|Are you looking for actual fabrics to purchase, or simply references
|for fabric patterns?
|
|Joan Jurancich
|


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From: "Kerrie" <kerrie@joyfulfaith.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Late 17th century brocades (take 2)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 16:55:51 -0400
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Wow Diana! Thank you, I will definitely save your contact info. :)

Kerrie
 


|-----Original Message-----

|Once you find the types of patterns you need, take a look at
|www.discountfabricsusa.com and let me know if you see any patterns that
|might work for you.
|<snip>
|Diana
|www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
|"Everything for the Costumer"


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 17th century brocades (take 2)
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In a message dated 8/24/2005 4:18:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
emeraldepona@yahoo.com writes:

Also try  http://www.ghostforge.com/.  SUPER nice people and great  fabrics...




I'm glad they're so nice but their silk brocades are great...for a Suzie  
Wong dress. I might use one or two of them for a bustle gown.
 
I would try some expensive decorator suppliers. They may have some Leon  
silks or Scalamandre silks.
 
Some oriental brocades can be used if they're not covered in bamboo and  
dragons in the clouds, but they tend to look 18th and 19th  century.
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In a message dated 8/24/2005 4:20:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

O.K. the  customer has given me another option! (Don't you love it 
when they change  their minds - ah bless!) Now I need to source small 
round bone buttons.  Anybody help please?



Greenberg and Hammer used to gave small horn buttons...and large and medium  
ones too and at very reasonable prices per dozen, though that particular  line 
seems to have disappeared. Still they have real horn buttons. I don't  know 
if they have white bone ones. The site won't let me on the button  page.
 
Greenberg-Hammer.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bone buttons, was Dorset buttons
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At 21:29 24/08/2005, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 8/24/2005 4:20:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
>O.K. the  customer has given me another option! (Don't you love it
>when they change  their minds - ah bless!) Now I need to source small
>round bone buttons.  Anybody help please?
>
>
>
>Greenberg and Hammer used to gave small horn buttons...and large and medium
>ones too and at very reasonable prices per dozen, though that 
>particular  line
>seems to have disappeared. Still they have real horn buttons. I don't  know
>if they have white bone ones. The site won't let me on the button  page.


I can't even get into the onstore catalogue thingy! Oh well........

Suzi


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I consider this book a must have to any costume designer's library (for that is what I do).  Eye candy.  The close up details are extremely useful and the later costumes are largely ones influenced by Asian design.  Ie.  the Poiret fascination with kimonos and parasols, Fortuny, etc.  The collection is also in incredibly good shape, giving the impression that the original colors have not faded or changed.  I have considered a trip to Japan to study this connection up close and personal.  I wonder, have any of you had that experience?  Is part of it available to the public?  How do they work with students wishing to study the collection? 
 
Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 12:02:25 -0700
Subject: RE: [h-cost] have you read this costume book?


>This is a two-volume reprint of the original "Fashion" which was about 
>720 pages. I have it. 20th century fashions, if I recall correctly, make 
>up over 1/3 of the book as there are more 20th century fashions in 
>existence than 18th and 19th. 
 
And there ought to be one from the 16thC too. In the one-volume version it's a close-up only, of what used to be called the Devereaux Bodice. Lots of amazing handwork in that close-up. 
 
  CarolynKayta Barrows 
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian 
  www.FunStuft.com 
 
  //// \\\ 
  ////-@@\\\ 
  (((( 7 ))) 
  ((( <> )))) 
  ) (((((( 
  /----\ /---\)) 
 
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] have you read this costume book?
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I have the book in front of me, it is wonderful, I had time to grab one
book to take to Newport Dance Week and that was it.  The photos are
crisp, rich and detailed, with full views and colse-ups.  There are a
few items that have only close-ups that I wish ahd front and back views
though.  I am curious to see how they have reformatted it for 2 volumes.

approx # of pages:

125pp 18th century
155pp 19th century
175 1st 1/2 20th century
200pp 2nd 1/2 20th century

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] have you read this costume book?
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 21:20:17 -0400
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But still much worth the purchase for the AMAZING colour pictures of actual 
garments. I have the original book (saw the two-volume one in Paris this 
summer and it looks exactly the same book).

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 2:18 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] have you read this costume book?


> This is a two-volume reprint of the original "Fashion" which was about
> 720 pages. I have it. 20th century fashions, if I recall correctly, make
> up over 1/3 of the book as there are more 20th century fashions in
> existence than 18th and 19th.
>
> Cindy Abel.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Dawn
> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 12:23 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] have you read this costume book?
>
> **Caution. This link may contain material that is not suitable for
> viewing from your employer's internet connection.**
>
>
> "FASHION: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century" Edited by the
> Kyoto Costume Institute. Two thick volumes in a slipcase. Originally
> published at $39.99. Taschen, 2005
>
> http://budplant.com/product.asp?pn=FASH
>
>
> I was wondering what proportion of the content was 18th century and what
>
> was 20th. Any comments?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Buttons queries - no further need.
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Hi all those ladies who suggested or helped with suggestions for 
button sources. The "gentleman" has found someone else to do the job, 
now I have done a fair amount of time-consuming research, and no 
longer needs my help. Why couldn't he have done that *before* asking 
me, and sending me off to get samples etc. in the pouring bloomin' 
rain when I was already very busy. Grumble....... grumble. It doesn't 
happen often, and the lovley lady whose wedding dress I am busy on, 
makes up for people like him...........almost.

Anyway, thanks for your time everyone.

Suzi


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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bone buttons, was Dorset buttons
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 21:31:44 -0400
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I think Smoke and Fire company has bone buttons. Their contact is:
donlyn@smoke-fire.com (they were at Pennsic)  Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 6:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bone buttons, was Dorset buttons

At 21:29 24/08/2005, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 8/24/2005 4:20:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
>O.K. the  customer has given me another option! (Don't you love it
>when they change  their minds - ah bless!) Now I need to source small
>round bone buttons.  Anybody help please?
>
>
>
>Greenberg and Hammer used to gave small horn buttons...and large and medium
>ones too and at very reasonable prices per dozen, though that 
>particular  line
>seems to have disappeared. Still they have real horn buttons. I don't  know
>if they have white bone ones. The site won't let me on the button  page.


I can't even get into the onstore catalogue thingy! Oh well........

Suzi


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Buttons queries - no further need.
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Well, don't that just  put yer panties in a bunch?  Sorry about having to
slog around in the rain. I do hope we get to see pictures of the bridal
dress:)  Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 9:31 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Buttons queries - no further need.


Hi all those ladies who suggested or helped with suggestions for 
button sources. The "gentleman" has found someone else to do the job, 
now I have done a fair amount of time-consuming research, and no 
longer needs my help. Why couldn't he have done that *before* asking 
me, and sending me off to get samples etc. in the pouring bloomin' 
rain when I was already very busy. Grumble....... grumble. It doesn't 
happen often, and the lovley lady whose wedding dress I am busy on, 
makes up for people like him...........almost.

Anyway, thanks for your time everyone.

Suzi


_______________________________________________
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Hi, I'm making an 1890s dress for a ball and want a train to hold at my 
wrist. Is there a certain length I should make the train in order for 
this to work? And what is the best way to attach it to my wrist for dancing?
Thanks, Aylwen

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a train to hold at my
> wrist. Is there a certain length I should make the train 
And what is the best way to attach it to my wrist for dancing?

Length depends upon the style of the year and what looks right to you -- try it 
out in a rough calico version until it looks right.

As to attachment, one of the most convenient and quickest to arrange is a loop 
to hook your thumb/finger/hand through,

-C.



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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Kyoto book
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IIRC, the reason the photos are so crisp and the colors clear is that 
they used an 8-color separation printing process, rather than the 
usual 4-color.  One wonders if the 2-volume edition only used 
4-color, since it is so much cheaper than the 1-volume was.

Just my opinion, and hopefully correct remembering.....

Sandy

At 08:32 PM 8/24/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 19:20:41 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] have you read this costume book?
>
>I have the book in front of me, it is wonderful, I had time to grab one
>book to take to Newport Dance Week and that was it.  The photos are
>crisp, rich and detailed, with full views and colse-ups.
>
>Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
>
>Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 21:20:17 -0400
>From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] have you read this costume book?
>
>But still much worth the purchase for the AMAZING colour pictures of actual
>garments. I have the original book (saw the two-volume one in Paris this
>summer and it looks exactly the same book).

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Train for 1890s dress
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In a message dated 8/24/2005 11:33:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:

Length  depends upon the style of the year and what looks right to you -- try 
it  
out in a rough calico version until it looks right.
 
Yes. Or if you're in a hurry, take a length of cloth, tuck it into your  
jeans' [or whatever you're wearing] waistband and take it up in your hand  so it 
has a nice easy drape. A well shaped swag from waist...down and  up... to your 
hand. Mark where you're holding it and use that length for  your CB waist to 
hem length.
 

As to attachment, one of the most convenient and quickest to arrange is  a 
loop 
to hook your thumb/finger/hand through,
 
 
 
The advantages of a loop near the CB hem for the wrist is that it's easier  
to find in the fullness of the train.
 
Be sure the inside of the skirt looks good as it may be seen.









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On Wed, 24 Aug 2005, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:

> IIRC, the reason the photos are so crisp and the colors clear is that they 
> used an 8-color separation printing process, rather than the usual 4-color. 
> One wonders if the 2-volume edition only used 4-color, since it is so much 
> cheaper than the 1-volume was.

 	I have both versions--ordered the 2 volume set without realizing 
it was the same book.  To me, the colors in the 2 volume set look just as 
vibrant and beautiful as those in the single volume.

--and--

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005, Katy Bishop wrote:

> I am curious to see how they have reformatted it for 2 volumes.

 	The 18th and 19th centuries are in Volume I and the 20th century 
is in Volume II.  There's a very slight difference in page numbers.  I 
haven't gone through page by page to see what the specifics are but the 
original book has 736 pages.  In the new set Volume I is page 1-320 and 
Volume II is page 321-720.  Either way I wholeheartedly agree with 
everyone who has said that it's a very beautiful book.

lisa
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From: "Michaela Feudtner" <feudtner@festefeiern-online.de>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Kyoto book
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 08:19:28 +0200
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The two-volume version has been published for the 25th Anniversary of the
publisher "Taschen". I have roughly compared both versions and there are
only a few differences, mostly in the 20th century section. The quality of
the pictures is the same.
A must have! (Either version)

Michaela
----- Original Message -----
From: "lisa" <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 7:55 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Kyoto book


> On Wed, 24 Aug 2005, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
>
> > IIRC, the reason the photos are so crisp and the colors clear is that
they
> > used an 8-color separation printing process, rather than the usual
4-color.
> > One wonders if the 2-volume edition only used 4-color, since it is so
much
> > cheaper than the 1-volume was.
>
>   I have both versions--ordered the 2 volume set without realizing
> it was the same book.  To me, the colors in the 2 volume set look just as
> vibrant and beautiful as those in the single volume.
>
> --and--
>
> On Wed, 24 Aug 2005, Katy Bishop wrote:
>
> > I am curious to see how they have reformatted it for 2 volumes.
>
>   The 18th and 19th centuries are in Volume I and the 20th century
> is in Volume II.  There's a very slight difference in page numbers.  I
> haven't gone through page by page to see what the specifics are but the
> original book has 736 pages.  In the new set Volume I is page 1-320 and
> Volume II is page 321-720.  Either way I wholeheartedly agree with
> everyone who has said that it's a very beautiful book.
>
> lisa
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Mystery Designer
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First off, I will be getting back to you all about your questions about the Color Database.  I am really sorry about my delay.  After being sick last week, I am pushing to wrap up the 1896 designers set, before this weekend.  Then I have to move on to the Costume Encyclopedia.  I will catch up in-between these projects.

QUESTION:
I am looking for the fashion design house, A. Izambard in St. Petersburg, Russia.  If any of you have books on 19th Century fashion designers, can you please look and see if this designer is listed.  

This is what I have so far for the designer... This was written in 1896:

A. Izambard's Clientèle: 
Hoflieferanten J.K.H
Prinzessin Friedrich Leopold Von Preussen.
De S.M. La Reine des Belges
Empress of Dowager at her coronation at Moscow

The Maison Izambard of St. Petersburg had been in existence many years. The design house made a specialty of court costumes, which were all of the same pattern and colors at the Russian Court when worn by the ladies of honor to Her Imperial Majesty.

I have done a google on him and all I get is a romance writer.  When I started this Designers of Their Time series, it was to find designers that the general public does not know for an era.  But I am having trouble finding information about 14 designers in 1896 who designed for the royal courts of Europe.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Colonial Williamsburg costume job
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Status: RO

I am just the messenger, if interested go to the links provided:
Penny Ladnier

> I am Greg Russell, Recruiter for The Colonial
> Williamsburg Foundation in
> Williamsburg, Virginia, the restored 18th-century capital
> of Virginia.
> Please visit Colonial Williamsburg on the web at
> www.ColonialWilliamsburg.org
> <http://www.colonialwilliamsburg.org/> .  
 Interested individuals must
> apply at
> www.ColonialWilliamsburg.org/jobs.
> 
> Thanks for your time. 
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Gregory D. Russell, Recruiter
> 
> The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
> 
> T: (757) 220-7033
> 
> F: (757) 565-8780
> 
> Jobs:  www.ColonialWilliamsburg.org/jobs
> 
> Established in 1926, the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
> is the
> not-for-profit educational institution that operates the
> restored
> 18th-century capital of Virginia.
> 
>  
> 
> Position Title:
> 
> MGR COSTUME DESIGN CENTER 
> 
> Requisition ID:
> 
> ECJ-06/05-185
> 
> Date Posted:
> 
> 7/19/2005
> 
> Location:
> 
> CDC-Costume Design Center
> 
> Company:
> 
> Colonial Williamsburg 
> 
> Department:
> 
> Costume Design Center
> 
> Division:
> 
> 150-400-Historic Area
> 
> Posting Description:
> 
> Regular, full time exempt position; hiring rate up to
> $62,000; benefits
> eligible.
> 
> PROFILE:  
> 
> Our work environment is fast-paced and quiet.  Competency
> and reacting
> with a reasoned response is expected.  No issue is
> considered a
> complaint but rather an opportunity to exceed customer
> expectations in
> an ever-changing business environment. We strive to see
> the big picture
> while handling multiple tasks with precision and
> implementing
> significant process improvements.  Being proactive,
> congenial,
> disciplined, flexible and cross-trained helps us to
> succeed.  Getting
> the job done having considered the impact of our actions
> is critical.
> Moving quickly to the next task is essential.  It is not
> unusual to work
> beyond the normal daily schedule.
> 
> DUTIES:
> 
> Manages the daily operation of the Costume Design Center,
> including
> production, issuance, inventory and costume maintenance. 
> Oversees
> management of costume inventory and maintenance of
> inventory systems.
> Ensures the authenticity of all costume designs and
> oversees development
> of costume standards.  Provides leadership and support to
> the Costume
> Design Center staff.
> 
> MINIMUMS:
> 
> * Highly developed knowledge of 18th century clothing and
> a sense
> of color and design 
> * Working knowledge of the methodologies of costume
> production
> including excellent sewing skills and costume design
> experience 
> * Excellent  (1) financial skills, including budget and
> resource/inventory management; (2) organizational,
> analytical, and
> problem solving skills; (3) communication skills, both
> oral and written,
> including the ability to produce reports, guide tours and
> present
> workshops and lectures 
> * Ability to (1) develop short and long-range work plans,
> work
> procedures and standards; (2) effectively lead work teams
> and to train,
> develop and manage employees so that they meet the
> division's
> expectations of the Costume Design Center and provide
> exceptional
> customer service to our employees; (3) manage multiple
> tasks and to
> respond to urgent critical needs effectively and
> efficiently; (4) build
> constructive relationships and work well with employees
> in all levels in
> the Foundation 
> * Skills generally gained through a four-year degree in
> textiles,
> plus four to five years progressive experience in costume
> production,
> including five years management experience; graduate
> level study of 18th
> century costume and experience managing a costume
> production operation
> is a plus 
> 
> NOTE:    In resume section of online profile please
> include names and
> addresses of three work references, your letter of
> application and a
> resume.
_______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 09:32:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: A & J Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Train for 1890s dress
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One thing to consider with a train is how the skirt will drape when held
up, especially while dancing.  At Newport last week, while dancing at
the Astors' 1890's Ball, one of the actors who works there was waltzing
with her train in her hand, in a very lovely deep red (I think) dress,
but you could see tons of white underskirt!  Ruined the effect.

Katy

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005, A & J Garden wrote:

>Hi, I'm making an 1890s dress for a ball and want a train to hold at my
>wrist. Is there a certain length I should make the train in order for
>this to work? And what is the best way to attach it to my wrist for dancing?
>Thanks, Aylwen
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 09:56:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Designer
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From:
"Le Costume en Russie: XVIIIe-debut du XXe siecle"

Musee de L'Hermitage 1983 (sorry I only have it in French)

Chanceau, Izambard. Propietaire d'un atelier de modes feminines actif a
la fin du XIXe-debut du XXe siecle qui executait egalement des traines
pour les robes de cour.  Marque imprimee en lettres d'or sur un ruban de
soie blanche ; au centre Izambard Chanceau St-Petersbourg, a droite et a
gauche des ecussons les initiales M (then a Russian letter).

In the book there is illustrated a court dress of deep red velvet with
lots of gold embroiders and a cream underdress also with gold embroidery
"seconde moitie du XIXe siecle"

Katy

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005, Penny Ladnier wrote:

>First off, I will be getting back to you all about your questions about the Color Database.  I am really sorry about my delay.  After being sick last week, I am pushing to wrap up the 1896 designers set, before this weekend.  Then I have to move on to the Costume Encyclopedia.  I will catch up in-between these projects.
>
>QUESTION:
>I am looking for the fashion design house, A. Izambard in St. Petersburg, Russia.  If any of you have books on 19th Century fashion designers, can you please look and see if this designer is listed.
>
>This is what I have so far for the designer... This was written in 1896:
>
>A. Izambard's Clientèle:
>Hoflieferanten J.K.H
>Prinzessin Friedrich Leopold Von Preussen.
>De S.M. La Reine des Belges
>Empress of Dowager at her coronation at Moscow
>
>The Maison Izambard of St. Petersburg had been in existence many years. The design house made a specialty of court costumes, which were all of the same pattern and colors at the Russian Court when worn by the ladies of honor to Her Imperial Majesty.
>
>I have done a google on him and all I get is a romance writer.  When I started this Designers of Their Time series, it was to find designers that the general public does not know for an era.  But I am having trouble finding information about 14 designers in 1896 who designed for the royal courts of Europe.
>
>Penny E. Ladnier
>Owner,
>The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
>Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
>_______________________________________________
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Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Kyoto book
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If you look at the photos through a magnifying glass, you could probably 
see how many colors of dots are in each rosette, therefore how they did 
their color separation.  Unless they did stochastic screening.

The reason for the low price of the two-volume edition, though, is 
probably a combination of

(a)  Most of these photos have been printed before, not just in the 
single-volume edition, but in earlier Kyoto Costume Institute books such 
as _Revolution in Fashion_.   Therefore the photography, at least, was 
probably paid for by other books.

(b)  I'd guess there might have been a governmental or some other type 
of subsidy, or grant.  I couldn't even _print_ these books for the cost 
the finished ones are selling for.  And I'm talking about unit print 
price at the printer, not costs for photography, editing, writing, etc.; 
nor the necessary markups for going through retailers and distributors. 

I doubt they're actually making money.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:

> IIRC, the reason the photos are so crisp and the colors clear is that 
> they used an 8-color separation printing process, rather than the 
> usual 4-color.  One wonders if the 2-volume edition only used 4-color, 
> since it is so much cheaper than the 1-volume was.
>
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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 09:15:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Kyoto book
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> (b)  I'd guess there might have been a governmental or some other type
> of subsidy, or grant.  I couldn't even _print_ these books for the cost
> the finished ones are selling for.  And I'm talking about unit print
> price at the printer, not costs for photography, editing, writing, etc.;
> nor the necessary markups for going through retailers and distributors.

Lucky us!!

I remember buying the Kyoto book a few years ago and marveling at the
price for a book with such a huge number of large color photos.  I think I
paid $40 for it.  I would have expected to pay $100 or more just based on
what other books cost.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Kyoto (Fashion ) book
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Diana Habra wrote:
> 
> I remember buying the Kyoto book a few years ago and marveling at the
> price for a book with such a huge number of large color photos.  I think I
> paid $40 for it.  I would have expected to pay $100 or more just based on
> what other books cost.
> 


Thanks for all the responses. Now if I can somehow hint to my husband 
that it would be a good birthday gift...



Dawn

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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 08:47:43 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bone buttons, was Dorset buttons
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At 04:26 PM 8/24/05 +0100, you wrote:
>O.K. the customer has given me another option! (Don't you love it when 
>they change their minds - ah bless!) Now I need to source small round bone 
>buttons. Anybody help please?


Jas Townsend & Son sells some bone buttons (and some wooden ones.)
The size is very limited, though.

http://jas-townsend.com/


Sheryl N-D


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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 09:10:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial Williamsburg costume job
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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>>
>>
>> Gregory D. Russell, Recruiter
>>
>> The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
>>
>> T: (757) 220-7033
>>
>> F: (757) 565-8780
>>
>> Jobs:  www.ColonialWilliamsburg.org/jobs
>>
>> Established in 1926, the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
>> is the
>> not-for-profit educational institution that operates the
>> restored
>> 18th-century capital of Virginia.
>>
>>
>>
>> Position Title:
>>
>> MGR COSTUME DESIGN CENTER

Wow, what a cool job!!  Bjarne, have you thought about moving to
America.....?!

Diana


www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: [h-cost] Where to buy kebayas and crochet
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www.kebayas.com

I just got four kebayas I ordered from them.  It is a very small 
businesses based in Malaysia. The owner, Lily Yew, makes the kebayas 
herself.  All mine are from her lower end, ready-to-wear lines.  Even 
though it was RTW, for which you choose from already designed color and 
fabric combinations, she sent me fabric swatches to choose from, so I 
didn't have to depend on monitor colors.

Even though her RTW lines do not have custom fitting, she shortened the 
sleeve and back waist lengths for me when she sewed the kebayas up.  At 
my request she also omitted a nontraditional (but desirable to some 
customers) panel in front to hold plastic snaps (traditionally, kebayas 
are pinned closed). The traditional fit is skin tight, but I got mine a 
size large to wear jacket style.  I think she will do real custom 
fitting for her higher-end lines. 

The kebayas are good quality, with dense machine embroidery and French 
seams. The quality you  get is really a bargain for the price.  I plan 
to wear them with my collection of Indian gauze ombre skirts.

Lily Yew speaks perfect English (her sister lives in San Francisco) so 
there were no communication difficulties at all.  She shipped them 
fairly fast, in sturdy plastic boxes.

If anyone wants really good hand crochet at a reasonable price, try the 
eBay seller china-usa (Robert Lim, based in southern California).  They 
sell high quality, perfect condition, lace collars, blouses, skirts, and 
household linens.  I've bought several items from them and been very 
pleased.  Robert Lim will hunt up sizes and shades for you that he has 
in stock but which are not currently on auction. 

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com





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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Where to buy kebayas and crochet
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I love china-usa.  I've gotten a couple of things from them and they were very, very good quality and have held up well.  
 
Thanks for the info on the kebayas!
 
Chris G.

Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
www.kebayas.com

I just got four kebayas I ordered from them. It is a very small 
businesses based in Malaysia. The owner, Lily Yew, makes the kebayas 
herself. All mine are from her lower end, ready-to-wear lines. Even 
though it was RTW, for which you choose from already designed color and 
fabric combinations, she sent me fabric swatches to choose from, so I 
didn't have to depend on monitor colors.

If anyone wants really good hand crochet at a reasonable price, try the 
eBay seller china-usa (Robert Lim, based in southern California). They 
sell high quality, perfect condition, lace collars, blouses, skirts, and 
household linens. I've bought several items from them and been very 
pleased. Robert Lim will hunt up sizes and shades for you that he has 
in stock but which are not currently on auction. 

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com





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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan corset
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Thank you so much to all who answered my post about the "big three" corset pattern. I never realized that there were so many helpful costumers and informational web sites out there. I'll post pictures when I get it done.

Thanks again.
Fiona MacGarry aka
Jeanne Willis
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I agree.  I just got a hand-crocheted Edwardian style duster for $33. 

One comment for people who have never bought from china-usa--they give 
both measurements and sizes for their garments.  Stick with the 
measurements, as what gets labled "Small," "Medium," or "Large" seems 
pretty random.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Chris wrote:

>I love china-usa.  I've gotten a couple of things from them and they were very, very good quality and have held up well.  
> 
>Thanks for the info on the kebayas!
> 
>Chris G.
>
>  
>
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From: Jacqueline Johnson <kristalori@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Free yarn
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This came across one of my LiveJournal communities today and I thought
I'd share:

receive your free ball of Bernat Disco please fill in the form below:
http://www.bernat.com/getdown/


You get a free ball of their yarn. I know there are a lot of knitters
and crocheters on here not to mention scrapbookers who'd really like
this one.


Bice

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Subject: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen
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Two ccheap? fabric mentions.  

      http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/wool_gabardine.htm
$5 a yard wool gabardines, but the colors are ...BRIGHT


also, this is a bit of a boast, and I will not be able to give the name of the store (i am going to go back on sat, and i just know where it is) but I found a bunch of 60 inch wide linen in fairly light weights for 3.50 (plus 8 5/8th % sales tax).  I think I am going to buy a variity about $400  

the store has been saying that they are going out of busines for several years, but tey might actually be finally doing that from the sudden lowering of prices. 

I cant remember all the colors, but if anyone wants to pay me for shipping, i would be willing to look for thier color.  

also, there did not seem to be any white, but i could be rememering wrong.

jordana

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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 12:34:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Two ccheap? fabric mentions.
>
>       http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/wool_gabardine.htm
> $5 a yard wool gabardines, but the colors are ...BRIGHT

Remember, though, that wool takes dye very well and all you would have to
do is buy some RIT dye and use your washer to create a better or different
color!!  For example, you could overydye the bright green with a blue to
create a lovely dark green.  Or add blue dye to a pink wool to create a
lovely lavender or purple.

> also, this is a bit of a boast, and I will not be able to give the name of
> the store (i am going to go back on sat, and i just know where it is) but
> I found a bunch of 60 inch wide linen in fairly light weights for 3.50
> (plus 8 5/8th % sales tax).  I think I am going to buy a variity about
> $400

Is it 100% linen?  Sometimes the big chain stores call things "linen" or
"linen look" when they might only contain part linen or--no linen at all. 
Just be sure of what you are buying when you pay that price.  You might be
able to ask for a burn test there or get a sample and burn it outside
yourself.  I would just hate for you to buy "linen" and find out that it
really is linen/rayon or poly/rayon.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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My niece just announced her impending marriage and I am in charge of the
wedding ensemble.  She is interested in modeling it on the John singer
Sargent painting of Pauline Astor at the Huntington Library.  Can any of you
recommend any sites on the net for research?  Hair, shoes, both sex fashion,
customs etc?

Thanks

Terri Casey


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In a message dated 8/25/2005 3:47:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
auntiegert@att.net writes:

Can any  of you
recommend any sites on the net for research?  Hair, shoes, both  sex fashion,
customs etc?



The painting is beautiful! It's hard to tell what the gown is up to because  
of that wonderful silk satin stole
 
There are some incredible gowns of this period that are so simple and so  
beautiful. I remember seeing one in one of those great books [The Evolution [not  
Revolution] of Fashion maybe?] that was white silk satin Jacquard with a CF  
seam, side seams and [I assume] a CB one and it is completely smoothly molded 
to  the curving heavily corseted torso and flaring into the trumpet shaped 
skirt. No  wrinkles, no horizontal seams or darts of any kind. Amazing stuff. The 
 silk must be like charmeuse....very slinky...with foundation garments giving 
it  shape. This is a trait of this period many designers seem to miss. It is 
rigidly  corseted and petticoats can be like a science project to get the 
subtle skirt  shape, but over these foundations are layers of light airy slink and 
drapey  fabrics.
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Subject: [h-cost] Silk Lutestring???
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Hey everyone,
I was reading a trashy bodice ripper the other day and silk lutestring was referenced as fabric for one of the dresses. I have never heard of it. Can anyone tell me what it is. The time period is circa 1705-1710.
Thanks,
Jodi

		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Lutestring???
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At 01:59 PM 8/25/2005, you wrote:
>Hey everyone,
>I was reading a trashy bodice ripper the other day and silk 
>lutestring was referenced as fabric for one of the dresses. I have 
>never heard of it. Can anyone tell me what it is. The time period is 
>circa 1705-1710.
>Thanks,
>Jodi

According to the entry (page 283) Textiles in America 1650-1870" by 
Florence Montgomery, Lutestring (also Lustring) is 'a light, crisp 
plain silk with a high luster. "A taffeta which had been stretched 
and, while under tension, smeared with a syrupy gum. This dressing 
was dried with the aid of a small brazier and gave the material a 
glossy sheen. Lustrings were mostly plain, striped, changeable, or 
decorated with chine'  patterns, but they could have large patterns 
similar to those on other silks" (Thornton, Baroque and Rococo Silks, 
p. 27, pls. 84B, 86A, 91B).'

Later in the entry, is the following paragraph, which is closer to 
the time period you are interested in:  "In 1698 Samuel Sewall of 
Boston ordered 'A piece of flowerd Lutestring qt. between 36 and 
fourty yards, with Trimming, to make Gowns and petticoats for my 
daughters' and in 1706 'Eight yards black flowerd Lutestring or 
Damask. Let the flowers be of Herbs or Leaves; not of Animals, or 
artificial things.'  In 1714 he ordered 'A good strong black Silk 
Damask, or Lutestring Flowered (no Silk Grass to be in it:) to make 
two Jackets, and two pair of Breeches' (Letter book, 1:203, 338; 2:37)."



Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 
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http://www.brainydictionary.com/words/lu/lutestring186399.html

On 8/25/05, Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
> At 01:59 PM 8/25/2005, you wrote:
> >Hey everyone,
> >I was reading a trashy bodice ripper the other day and silk
> >lutestring was referenced as fabric for one of the dresses. I have
> >never heard of it. Can anyone tell me what it is. The time period is
> >circa 1705-1710.
> >Thanks,
> >Jodi

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: Subject: Re: [h-cost] have you read this costume book? Kyoto Fashion
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>>Kyoto Costume Museum... Fashion
>I consider this book a must have to any costume designer's library
(for that is what I do).  Eye candy.... I have considered a trip to
Japan to study this connection up close and personal.  I wonder, have
any of you had that experience?  Is part of it available to the
public?  How do they work with students wishing to study the
collection?

Cheryl,
I used to live in Tokyo, yes I've been to Kyoto to see the exhibit and
was stunned to find it partly closed. Some of it was open, but not the
Western style fashions. My language skills were not up to the
challenge of finding out why and my guide/penpal is not a costume fan.
We, sadly for me, went elsewhere.
My recommendations:
* Japanese museums, unlike Western museums, tend to cycle the display
much more often and keep fewer things on display at any one time. 
this is in keeping wtih the Japanese anti-clutter aesthetic, also it
gives space to see a single item in it's best light.
* as with any top notch museum, call or write for an appointment with
the stuff. present credentials. be specific. you know the drill. when
you arrive, show up *precisely* on time.
* if you dont speak Japanese, take someone who does and who *loves*
costume as much as you to to the point where they will take the time
to learn the words. vocab morphs amazingly in Japan. ("Macudo" ==
MacDonalds for example.)
* consider some of the other fabric, kimono & brocade exhibits nearby,
like the Nishiki district of Kyoto, the Kyoto School of Kimono, the
Imperial Palace. Kyoto School of Kimono had on of their big
fashionshow and we totally lucked onto it.
* find the National Treasure weaver, dyer, etc and visit their workshops.
* as you will probably come via Tokyo, the Bunka Gakuin has a terrific
exhibit and collection of past catalogs that you can buy. I'm fond of
the National museum in Tokyo  www.tnm.go.jp
* Kyoto Costume Museum does let part of their collection travel for
exhibits. If you work for a museum or a school with a museum... dont I
just wish.
* I've written about most of this before, check the archives.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen
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Diana Habra wrote:

>>Two ccheap? fabric mentions.
>>
>>      http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/wool_gabardine.htm
>>$5 a yard wool gabardines, but the colors are ...BRIGHT
>>    
>>
>
>Remember, though, that wool takes dye very well and all you would have to
>do is buy some RIT dye and use your washer to create a better or different
>color!!  For example, you could overydye the bright green with a blue to
>create a lovely dark green.  Or add blue dye to a pink wool to create a
>lovely lavender or purple.
>
>  
>

Good point, I might buy enough for another flemish working women's 
outfit.  I had forgoten about it, but aI do think that gabardine is thin 
enough to be useable.

>>also, this is a bit of a boast, and I will not be able to give the name of
>>the store (i am going to go back on sat, and i just know where it is) but
>>I found a bunch of 60 inch wide linen in fairly light weights for 3.50
>>(plus 8 5/8th % sales tax).  I think I am going to buy a variity about
>>$400
>>    
>>
>
>Is it 100% linen?  Sometimes the big chain stores call things "linen" or
>"linen look" when they might only contain part linen or--no linen at all. 
>Just be sure of what you are buying when you pay that price.  You might be
>able to ask for a burn test there or get a sample and burn it outside
>yourself.  I would just hate for you to buy "linen" and find out that it
>really is linen/rayon or poly/rayon
>
It is one of the smal hole in the wall new york city fabric stores on 
like 38th or 39th or 40th between 7th and 8th, and burn test is already 
done.


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From: "Dianne and Greg" <goofy1@suscom.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 20:23:06 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: "J Schueller" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen


> Good point, I might buy enough for another flemish working women's
> outfit.  I had forgoten about it, but aI do think that gabardine is thin
> enough to be useable.
>

Gabardine is extremely useful. I spent a good deal of Pennsic wearing my
merchant-class Elizabethan wool gabardine dress with my linen smock, and was
perfectly comfortable--so much so that I forgot my sunscreen one day and
wound up with a sunburned cleavage! OW! Got the back of my neck too, which
made wearing a snood most uncomfortable.

The fabric is  quite lightweight, but drapes beautifully, and I frankly
adore the dress. I just need to tweak the fit on the shoulder straps a bit,
they are definitely too long. And a friend of mine gave me some beautifully
colored hand-spun silk thread to use for lacing--beautiful, soft stuff all
in shades of blue and green that was PERECT with the dark green gown.

Dianne

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.44.0508250941230.15674-100000@shell3.shore.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Designer
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 21:39:20 -0400
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Thank you Katy.  I have asked one of  my intern to translate it.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Designer
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I have 3 books on that collection I will scan through and let you know
if they say anything else on the designer.

Katy

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005, Penny Ladnier wrote:

>Thank you Katy.  I have asked one of  my intern to translate it.
>
>Penny E. Ladnier
>Owner,
>The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
>Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
>
>_______________________________________________
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>

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] S-shaped needles?? (was Dorset buttons)
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At 05:23 AM 8/23/2005, you wrote:
>Suzi -
>
>Wooded Hamlet Designs carries very nice Dorset buttons at a very 
>reasonable price.
>http://www.woodedhamlet.com/buttons_clasps/dorset_thread_buttons.html
>
>Carolann Schmitt


Thanks Carolann for sharing that link. I hadn't seen this site before, and 
have it bookmarked now.

While wandering through, I noticed they had "S" shaped needles.
http://www.woodedhamlet.com/threads_pins_needles/sewing_needles.htm
Bottom of the page.

Anyone know what they would be best used for, or use them before, or 
anything? I've never seen this kind of needle before, and wanted to know more.

Thanks in advance,

Kimiko


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] S-shaped needles?? (was Dorset buttons)
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These needles are used for sewing leather.  They're for thicker leather 
than garment leather.  The triangular tip cuts the hole and the curve 
gives the hand something to press against to make the hole.  Think of 
the 2nd curve of the S as a handle for pushing through the first curve 
as if it were a c-shaped needle.

- Ynes

Kimiko Small wrote:

> While wandering through, I noticed they had "S" shaped needles.
> http://www.woodedhamlet.com/threads_pins_needles/sewing_needles.htm
> Bottom of the page.
>
> Anyone know what they would be best used for, or use them before, or 
> anything? I've never seen this kind of needle before, and wanted to 
> know more.


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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 22:58:59 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Lutestring???
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In a message dated 8/25/2005 6:13:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
joanmj@surewest.net writes:

"A  taffeta which had been stretched 
and, while under tension, smeared with a  syrupy gum. This dressing 
was dried with the aid of a small brazier and  gave the material a 
glossy sheen.


IOW, stiff shiny silk taffeta. It pinks very well. Very popular in the  1770s 
for gowns a la Polonaise. There is a picture of a gown in what is  thought to 
be Lutestring in...oh damn....which book is it? Maybe the little  paper bound 
Williamsburg book...the precursor to "What Clothes Reveal". Anyway I  
remember it as being butter yellow and very plain with the fronts of the open  
overskirt being scalloped and pinked. Very stiff.
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Status: RO

Does anyone know if such actually exists/anyone make/sell it?

Yes, I know  can make it myself, but it's *so* much easier not to have 
to, and I've got an edge that needs reinforcement... just plain old 
white, or black will do.

-Liz

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Aug 25 23:19:31 2005
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.44.0508252236040.15674-100000@shell3.shore.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Designer
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 23:18:47 -0400
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Status: RO

Thank you Katy for the offer.  The more I work on these designers, the more 
I realize that this project really needed to be done.  This set of designers 
that I am working are from a 1896 source.  I am finding very little 
information in my designer books and on the web.  These designers were the 
top designers for the royalty of Europe.  Such a shame that history seems to 
have forgotten them.  I just worked on index webpages for two design houses, 
Vogel in the Netherlands, and Manning in Ireland that made fashions for the 
Queens and their courts of their respective countries.  Both fashion houses 
had been in business for at least 60 years according to my 1896 source.  The 
only Vogel that I found information was the founder of Bon Ton Ton magazine. 
This one couldn't have been the Vogel that I needed because he would have 
been designing for the courts at 10 years old.  LOL!!!  I feel like I am 
lost in space/cyberland/history with these designers.  When I do a Google on 
them... the only webpages about these designers are mine.  My son suggested 
I have a Quigi (sp) book and talk with the designers!

To top that off, I just won an ebay auction with more fashions from these 
European designers.  This book is also from 1896.

I will email you privately with a list of the designers that I am working 
on.  If the information is in French, my intern will translate them.  One 
day, I will make it to the community college and take French classes.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Civil War fabrics and books
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Hi all,

While waiting for the crimping doohicky, I had to put the French hood on 
hold, and with my arm and back really cranky lately, my scanning time had 
to be stopped (can't improve where the scanner sits).

So, I had a few Simplicity American Civil War patterns sitting in front of 
me, and figured I may as well research a bit into that time frame since our 
Civil War event is coming up... not that I can really work on the costume, 
but I am needing something to read and research that isn't the French hood 
(I hate waiting). I also hoped to hit a few suttlers while the event is in 
town in hopes of something interesting. Our local ACW event is held at 
Kearney Park west of Fresno, CA every October, and billed as the largest 
event in the US, which I have no idea if true or not. But it's a big thing 
for our little city. And I've wanted to make a dress to wear to that event 
every year I go.

So, I figured if I am going to make this simple cotton gown (Simplicity 
pattern #4551, View A), I should research what fabrics would be 
appropriate. I'd hate to make a dress and find out the printed cotton I 
bought is better suited for a quilt or a wall paper, than a dress. And I 
already have things generally researched and planned out for the 
undergarments, so that isn't an issue. And I have _Who Wore What_ that I am 
re-reading already.

I have been to www.reproductionfabrics.com and looked at their selection, 
which seems more about quilts.
I have looked at getting a few books:
_Dating Fabrics, A Color Guide 1800-1960_, by Eileen Trestain
_Textiles for Early Victorian Clothing 1850-1880_, by Susan W. Greene

However, I hate getting a book without knowing a decent review on them. And 
the first book again seems focused on quilts (I don't do quilts).

Can anyone here offer reviews of the above two books, or offer suggestions 
on other books or web sites on dress fabrics of the era? I admit that I get 
lost when it comes to doing printed fabrics. Solid colors are easier to 
deal with, but printed cottons seem so much more appropriate for Civil War 
events, so I figured I should learn to go outside my usual box, and 
hopefully find something I like that is period.

Thanks so much,

Kimiko


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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 20:46:06 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Lutestring???
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Status: RO

At 07:58 PM 8/25/2005, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 8/25/2005 6:13:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>joanmj@surewest.net writes:
>
>"A  taffeta which had been stretched
>and, while under tension, smeared with a  syrupy gum. This dressing
>was dried with the aid of a small brazier and  gave the material a
>glossy sheen.

And AlbertCat replies:
>IOW, stiff shiny silk taffeta. It pinks very well. Very popular in the  1770s
>for gowns a la Polonaise. There is a picture of a gown in what is  thought to
>be Lutestring in...oh damn....which book is it? Maybe the little  paper bound
>Williamsburg book...the precursor to "What Clothes Reveal". Anyway I
>remember it as being butter yellow and very plain with the fronts of 
>the open
>overskirt being scalloped and pinked. Very stiff.


I have the book "Fabric of Society: A Century of People and their 
Clothes 1770-1870" by Jane Tozer & Sarah Levitt  (ISBN O 9508913 0 4, 
published 1983) that has a picture of fabric with the label "a 
striped Lutestring gown" on page 44.  This book is discussing 
clothing in the collections of Platt Hall, The Gallery of English 
Costume, Manchester.  It has wonderful color photographs of actual 
garments, with close-ups of some of the fabrics.  I highly recommend 
it if you can obtain a copy.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 20:56:36 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War fabrics and books
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>_Dating Fabrics, A Color Guide 1800-1960_, by Eileen Trestain

This book is all images of swatches, sorted by color.  Not too bad, and not 
too expensive either.  There isn't much text, mostly images and 
captions.  I have one and I even use it occasionally.  I don't quilt.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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	Fri, 26 Aug 2005 04:45:14 PDT
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 04:45:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War fabrics and books
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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There weren't quilting shops during the Civil War, or
any of the rest of the nineteenth century.  

Quilts were made of clothes fabric.  Printed cotton
quilts were made of printed cotton clothes fabric.
It might have been purposely bought for the quilt
project (yes, that did happen), or might have been
scraps left over from a clothing project.

Use the quilting resources; they give you date, etc.
of the fabric.

What none of the modern sources do is tell you whether
a pattern was thought in good taste, though you can go
pretty wild with colors & pattern in the nineteenth
century style and still have not been laughed at in
the streets.

The Simplicity patterns do go together nice & easily,
in my experience.

Ann in CT

--- Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:

> 
> So, I had a few Simplicity American Civil War
> patterns sitting in front of 
> me, and figured I may as well research a bit into
> that time frame since our 
> Civil War event is coming up... not that I can
> really work on the costume, 
> but I am needing something to read and research that
> isn't the French hood 
> (I hate waiting). I also hoped to hit a few suttlers
> while the event is in 
> town in hopes of something interesting. Our local
> ACW event is held at 
> Kearney Park west of Fresno, CA every October, and
> billed as the largest 
> event in the US, which I have no idea if true or
> not. But it's a big thing 
> for our little city. And I've wanted to make a dress
> to wear to that event 
> every year I go.
> 
> So, I figured if I am going to make this simple
> cotton gown (Simplicity 
> pattern #4551, View A), I should research what
> fabrics would be 
> appropriate. I'd hate to make a dress and find out
> the printed cotton I 
> bought is better suited for a quilt or a wall paper,
> than a dress. And I 
> already have things generally researched and planned
> out for the 
> undergarments, so that isn't an issue. And I have
> _Who Wore What_ that I am 
> re-reading already.
> 
> I have been to www.reproductionfabrics.com and
> looked at their selection, 
> which seems more about quilts.
> I have looked at getting a few books:
> _Dating Fabrics, A Color Guide 1800-1960_, by Eileen
> Trestain
> _Textiles for Early Victorian Clothing 1850-1880_,
> by Susan W. Greene
> 
> However, I hate getting a book without knowing a
> decent review on them. And 
> the first book again seems focused on quilts (I
> don't do quilts).
> 
> Can anyone here offer reviews of the above two
> books, or offer suggestions 
> on other books or web sites on dress fabrics of the
> era? I admit that I get 
> lost when it comes to doing printed fabrics. Solid
> colors are easier to 
> deal with, but printed cottons seem so much more
> appropriate for Civil War 
> events, so I figured I should learn to go outside my
> usual box, and 
> hopefully find something I like that is period.
> 
> Thanks so much,
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Irmgart <irmgart@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen bias tape??
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I don't know of linen bias tape, but linen straight grain tape can be
found here:
http://www.woodedhamlet.com/tapes_braids/dutch_linentape.html

-Irmgart

On 8/25/05, Cozit / Liz <cozit@comcast.net> wrote:
> Does anyone know if such actually exists/anyone make/sell it?
> 
> Yes, I know  can make it myself, but it's *so* much easier not to have
> to, and I've got an edge that needs reinforcement... just plain old
> white, or black will do.
> 
> -Liz
> 
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I've seen linen *tapes* for sale (Wooded Hamlet, maybe??), but not linen 
*bias* tapes, sorry.
--Sue

Cozit / Liz wrote:

> Does anyone know if such actually exists/anyone make/sell it?
> 
> Yes, I know  can make it myself, but it's *so* much easier not to have 
> to, and I've got an edge that needs reinforcement... just plain old 
> white, or black will do.
> 
> -Liz
> 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Reminder "Tales from the Green Valley"
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A reminder for those who can get BBC2, this evening at 7.30 p.m. 
(don't forget we are an hour ahead of GMT for "summertime" - don't 
make me laugh) sees the second "month" of the "Tales from the Green 
Valley" series. For those who can't get it - I am sorry.

Suzi


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 07:59:57 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen (off-list)
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> also, this is a bit of a boast, and I will not be able to give the 
> name of the store (i am going to go back on sat, and i just know 
> where it is) but I found a bunch of 60 inch wide linen in fairly 
> light weights for 3.50 (plus 8 5/8th % sales tax).  I think I am 
> going to buy a variity about $400  
> 
 <snip> 
> I cant remember all the colors, but if anyone wants to pay me for 
> shipping, i would be willing to look for thier color.  
> 
> 
> jordana

If they've got a navy blue linen, I'd be interested in up to 10 yards. 
Do you have a PayPal account, or would you want a check sent?  (With my
work schedule, no one would be at home for a COD delivery.)

Leah
LLWatts@juno.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reminder "Tales from the Green Valley"
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 09:20:15 -0400
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Suzi,

Is this on BBC America?

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] hermitage collection
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Don't know if anyone has posted this link yet, but they have many images
of their costumes online and zoom-able!

http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/fcgi-bin/db2www/browse.mac/typeIndex?selLang=English&selCateg=suit

Not everything that is in the books but most and some that I've never
seen before.  Lots of inspiration for my new 1910's evening dress....

Katy

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 14:55:32 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reminder "Tales from the Green Valley"
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At 14:20 26/08/2005, you wrote:
>Suzi,
>
>Is this on BBC America?


No, sorry, first showing in Britain. But some ladies seemed to think 
that they might be able to pick it up on satellite.

Suzi


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Reminder "Tales from the Green Valley"
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Oh, go ahead and rub it in :(   Anne  (who really wants to see this someday)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 8:51 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Reminder "Tales from the Green Valley"


A reminder for those who can get BBC2, this evening at 7.30 p.m. 
(don't forget we are an hour ahead of GMT for "summertime" - don't 
make me laugh) sees the second "month" of the "Tales from the Green 
Valley" series. For those who can't get it - I am sorry.

Suzi


 

-- 
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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hermitage collection
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At 14:57 26/08/2005, you wrote:

>Don't know if anyone has posted this link yet, but they have many images
>of their costumes online and zoom-able!
>
>http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/fcgi-bin/db2www/browse.mac/typeIndex?selLang=English&selCateg=suit
>
>Not everything that is in the books but most and some that I've never
>seen before.  Lots of inspiration for my new 1910's evening dress....
>
>Katy


Great site - thanks so much.

Suzi


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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Reminder "Tales from the Green Valley"
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At 15:18 26/08/2005, you wrote:
>Oh, go ahead and rub it in :(   Anne  (who really wants to see this someday)


I did say sorry!

Suzi



>A reminder for those who can get BBC2, this evening at 7.30 p.m.
>(don't forget we are an hour ahead of GMT for "summertime" - don't
>make me laugh) sees the second "month" of the "Tales from the Green
>Valley" series. For those who can't get it - I am sorry.





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Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 09:59:34 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War fabrics and books
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>Quilts were made of clothes fabric.  Printed cotton
>quilts were made of printed cotton clothes fabric.
>It might have been purposely bought for the quilt
>project (yes, that did happen), or might have been
>scraps left over from a clothing project.

Or "recycled" scraps from clothes no longer in any shape to be worn.  The 
contemporary term for recycling is "waste not, want not".


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tales 
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rom the Green Valley
--- h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
> 	h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web,
> visit
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> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. hermitage collection (Katy Bishop)
>    2. RE: Reminder "Tales from the Green Valley"
> (Anne Moeller)
>    3. Re: hermitage collection (Suzi Clarke)
>    4. RE: Reminder "Tales from the Green Valley"
> (Suzi Clarke)
>    5. Re: Civil War fabrics and books (Carolyn Kayta
> Barrows)
> 
> 
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 09:57:01 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] hermitage collection
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> 
>
<Pine.GSO.4.44.0508260955160.15849-100000@shell3.shore.net>
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> 
> Don't know if anyone has posted this link yet, but
> they have many images
> of their costumes online and zoom-able!
> 
>
http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/fcgi-bin/db2www/browse.mac/typeIndex?selLang=English&selCateg=suit
> 
> Not everything that is in the books but most and
> some that I've never
> seen before.  Lots of inspiration for my new 1910's
> evening dress....
> 
> Katy
> 
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> vintage@shore.net               
> www.VintageVictorian.com
>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 10:18:54 -0400
> From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Reminder "Tales from the Green
> Valley"
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> 
>
<20050826141900.RDPR12154.eastrmmtao02.cox.net@ANNESCOMPUTER>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="windows-1250"
> 
> Oh, go ahead and rub it in :(   Anne  (who really
> wants to see this someday)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
> Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 8:51 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Reminder "Tales from the Green
> Valley"
> 
> 
> A reminder for those who can get BBC2, this evening
> at 7.30 p.m. 
> (don't forget we are an hour ahead of GMT for
> "summertime" - don't 
> make me laugh) sees the second "month" of the "Tales
> from the Green 
> Valley" series. For those who can't get it - I am
> sorry.
> 
> Suzi
> 
> 
>  
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.10.13/78 -
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>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 15:21:53 +0100
> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] hermitage collection
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <6.2.3.4.0.20050826152130.01d27800@127.0.0.1>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii";
> format=flowed
> 
> At 14:57 26/08/2005, you wrote:
> 
> >Don't know if anyone has posted this link yet, but
> they have many images
> >of their costumes online and zoom-able!
> >
>
>http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/fcgi-bin/db2www/browse.mac/typeIndex?selLang=English&selCateg=suit
> >
> >Not everything that is in the books but most and
> some that I've never
> >seen before.  Lots of inspiration for my new 1910's
> evening dress....
> >
> >Katy
> 
> 
> Great site - thanks so much.
> 
> Suzi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 15:23:23 +0100
> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Reminder "Tales from the Green
> Valley"
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <6.2.3.4.0.20050826152220.01d2c350@127.0.0.1>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii";
> format=flowed
> 
> At 15:18 26/08/2005, you wrote:
> >Oh, go ahead and rub it in :(   Anne  (who really
> wants to see this someday)
> 
> 
> I did say sorry!
> 
> Suzi
> 
> 
> 
> >A reminder for those who can get BBC2, this evening
> at 7.30 p.m.
> >(don't forget we are an hour ahead of GMT for
> "summertime" - don't
> >make me laugh) sees the second "month" of the
> "Tales from the Green
> >Valley" series. For those who can't get it - I am
> sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 09:59:34 -0700
> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War fabrics and books
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <4.3.1.2.20050826095811.02646d10@mail.frys.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii";
> format=flowed
> 
> 
> 
=== message truncated ===


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From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tales From the Green Valley
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OOps, sorry about that last message - hit the wrong
key!


I showed my FI the website with the write-ups about
the series and lamented that I couldn't watch them.
Without promting he went online and found this...

http://www.choicesdirect.com/templates/product.asp?ProductGuid=671598&CallerID=NKLK9042&cm_ven=Kelkoo%20DVDs&cm_cat=na&cm_pla=na&cm_ite=NKLK9042

About $30.00 US. I imagine they would ship to other
countries for a fee. 

Annette M


		
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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tales From the Green Valley
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Alas the release date appears to be December 29th! I guess that's better 
than next year, maybe, sometime in the US.

Thanks for sharing.

Kimiko



At 02:56 PM 8/26/2005, you wrote:
>OOps, sorry about that last message - hit the wrong
>key!
>
>
>I showed my FI the website with the write-ups about
>the series and lamented that I couldn't watch them.
>Without promting he went online and found this...
>
>http://www.choicesdirect.com/templates/product.asp?ProductGuid=671598&CallerID=NKLK9042&cm_ven=Kelkoo%20DVDs&cm_cat=na&cm_pla=na&cm_ite=NKLK9042
>
>About $30.00 US. I imagine they would ship to other
>countries for a fee.
>
>Annette M

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Fitting Issues (and linen prices)
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Belatedly, I want to thank everyone that responded to
these messages. 

The future MIL has made her choice and really liked
the Florentine
-(http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML) - so we
are going with that, but with wide sleeves and a hair
style like the woman's on the left.

Burgundy in a jacquard over a solid dark (navy) blue,
and the sleeves lined with a lightweight burgundy
color. Adding a chemise is out of the question as she
was balking at two layers.

Any ideas what would be a good lining fabric - I was
thinking of a light weight satin (if there is such a
thing).

Thanks again,
Annette M


> Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 11:28:31 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Fitting issues
> 
> My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding
> too. She is 5'-2" and wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to
> fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very fitted,
> a
> belt, or anything else that will create any pressure
> or tension, especially on her lower back. She also
> detests anything that might accentuate the bust. But
> I
> don't want to make her look like she is wearing a
> tent
> either.
> 
> The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does
> not
> have to be historically accurate, just look the
> part.
> 
> I was thinking a houppelande would do well with most
> of these requirements. I haven't really studied them
> as to fit so I don't know just how fitted they might
> be over the bust and waist. I wonder if making it
> less
> so will create a tent-like appearance.
> 
> Or perhaps a basic chemise and tunic type dress with
> side lacing so that it can be gathered in a bit, but
> not snugly.
> 
> This picture from a series of German prints also
> gave
> me some ideas. The woman on the right, but
> simplified.
> http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML
> 
> Any suggestions or ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Annette M



		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Aug 26 18:58:14 2005
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Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 15:57:00 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Lining fabric, was Re: [h-cost] Re: Fitting Issues (and linen prices)
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Lack of a linen undergarment will less comfortable.  If she is very 
insistent on not wearing a chemise, use lightweight linen in the 
appropriate color to line the gown. Satin is a fairly tight weave and 
generally does not breathe all that well, whether it is silk or not, 
so I would not use satin for the lining.

Joan Jurancich

At 03:39 PM 8/26/2005, you wrote:
>Belatedly, I want to thank everyone that responded to
>these messages.
>
>The future MIL has made her choice and really liked
>the Florentine
>-(http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML) - so we
>are going with that, but with wide sleeves and a hair
>style like the woman's on the left.
>
>Burgundy in a jacquard over a solid dark (navy) blue,
>and the sleeves lined with a lightweight burgundy
>color. Adding a chemise is out of the question as she
>was balking at two layers.
>
>Any ideas what would be a good lining fabric - I was
>thinking of a light weight satin (if there is such a
>thing).
>
>Thanks again,
>Annette M
>
>
> > Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 11:28:31 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Fitting issues
> >
> > My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding
> > too. She is 5'-2" and wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to
> > fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very fitted,
> > a
> > belt, or anything else that will create any pressure
> > or tension, especially on her lower back. She also
> > detests anything that might accentuate the bust. But
> > I
> > don't want to make her look like she is wearing a
> > tent
> > either.
> >
> > The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does
> > not
> > have to be historically accurate, just look the
> > part.
> >
> > I was thinking a houppelande would do well with most
> > of these requirements. I haven't really studied them
> > as to fit so I don't know just how fitted they might
> > be over the bust and waist. I wonder if making it
> > less
> > so will create a tent-like appearance.
> >
> > Or perhaps a basic chemise and tunic type dress with
> > side lacing so that it can be gathered in a bit, but
> > not snugly.
> >
> > This picture from a series of German prints also
> > gave
> > me some ideas. The woman on the right, but
> > simplified.
> > http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML
> >
> > Any suggestions or ideas?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Annette M
>
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________
>Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
>http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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References: <20050826215601.88703.qmail@web30301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tales From the Green Valley
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Unfortunately, most dvd's from other countries won't play on US machines.

:-(

kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kahlara" <kahlara@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 5:56 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tales From the Green Valley


> OOps, sorry about that last message - hit the wrong
> key!
>
> I showed my FI the website with the write-ups about
> the series and lamented that I couldn't watch them.
> Without promting he went online and found this...
>
> http://www.choicesdirect.com/templates/product.asp?ProductGuid=671598&CallerID=NKLK9042&cm_ven=Kelkoo%20DVDs&cm_cat=na&cm_pla=na&cm_ite=NKLK9042
>
> About $30.00 US. I imagine they would ship to other
> countries for a fee.
>
> Annette M


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tales From the Green Valley
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> Unfortunately, most dvd's from other countries won't play on US machines.
> 
> 
>>
>> http://www.choicesdirect.com/templates/product.asp?ProductGuid=671598&CallerID=NKLK9042&cm_ven=Kelkoo%20DVDs&cm_cat=na&cm_pla=na&cm_ite=NKLK9042 
>>

It's not too hard to find DVD players that will play discs from all 
regions.

In other news, the BBC is considering making its programmes available 
for viewing over the internet... next year. Initially restricted to UK 
viewers only, but that could change as attitudes about "broadcasting" 
move into the 21st century.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/entertainment/tv_and_radio/4187036.stm



Dawn



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Query, cloth terms
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A friend is sending off some scholarly material to a publisher, and wants
to doublecheck some information. She got it from a published source, but
it's a bit out of her area, and she wants to make sure the source hasn't
been superceded (or wasn't incorrect in the first place).

So -- I'd love to know if anyone has any hesitations about the following
passage, which is her own wording based on the published information. The
context is 12th c. France:

	Commercial relations with the Orient expanded rapidly, bringing
	cendal, a silk similar to our modern taffeta, often red, paile, a
	brocaded silk from Alexandria, siglaton, a gold brocade for luxury
	garments, osterin, a purple silk, and samite, a heavily
	embroidered silk, often with precious metal.

Cendal, paile, siglaton, osterin, and samite are all italicized. I believe
she is secure about the fabric words themselves; it's the definitions she
wants to verify.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Fitting Issues (and linen prices)
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In a message dated 8/27/2005 12:06:44 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kahlara@yahoo.com writes:

http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML


Do remember that that is a 2nd hand image done in the 1840s and has some  
Victorian flair to it. See if you can find the original inspiration for that  
plate. 
 
The fabrics might be a little more drapey in the original.
 
 And the sleeve poofs can of course be faked...realistically by  actually 
making up the little sleeve bits and lacing them all together over a  full very 
light linen [or something like it] undersleeve all set into the gown's  armseye 
together. Add a bit of fake chemise neckline to the gown's neckline and  it 
will looks great....like she's wearing a chemise.
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Subject: Re: Lining fabric,
	was Re: [h-cost] Re: Fitting Issues (and linen prices)
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In a message dated 8/27/2005 12:06:46 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
joanmj@surewest.net writes:

Lack of  a linen undergarment will less comfortable.  If she is very 
insistent  on not wearing a chemise, use lightweight linen in the 
appropriate color  to line the gown. Satin is a fairly tight weave and 
generally does not  breathe all that well, whether it is silk or not, 
so I would not use satin  for the lining.



All so true.
 
If you were meaning the over-gown...the Jacquard...you needn't line it if  
it's a real Jacquard. The "wrong" side will look fine. Just do french seams and  
maybe bind the outer edges with the self fabric. Of course if it needs some  
body, line it with some light crisp linen.
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This is a sales site, but the pictures are very nicely presented with 
lots of detail shots:

http://www.antiquedress.com/gallerymuseum1new.htm

Was just surfing and came across it.



Dawn



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This is great to know - I flung caution to the winds and ordered the book almost on the spot. ( Payday can be dangerous! ;-> )
Joannah

--- lisa <lisleong@k12.hi.us> wrote:

 	I have both versions--ordered the 2 volume set without realizing 
it was the same book.  To me, the colors in the 2 volume set look just as 
vibrant and beautiful as those in the single volume.

 	The 18th and 19th centuries are in Volume I and the 20th century 
is in Volume II.  There's a very slight difference in page numbers.  I 
haven't gone through page by page to see what the specifics are but the 
original book has 736 pages.  In the new set Volume I is page 1-320 and 
Volume II is page 321-720.  Either way I wholeheartedly agree with 
everyone who has said that it's a very beautiful book.

lisa
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen
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Drat and blast! I had a look at the link, and the turquoise blue looked just about perfect for us to use, especially at that price - *but they don't ship international!* 

Sniffle.... 

Oh well. I can understand their reasoning.

Joannah.

--- jaurbik@optonline.net wrote:

From: jaurbik@optonline.net
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 14:49:41 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen

Two ccheap? fabric mentions.  

      http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/wool_gabardine.htm
$5 a yard wool gabardines, but the colors are ...BRIGHT


also, this is a bit of a boast, and I will not be able to give the name of the store (i am going to go back on sat, and i just know where it is) but I found a bunch of 60 inch wide linen in fairly light weights for 3.50 (plus 8 5/8th % sales tax).  I think I am going to buy a variity about $400  

the store has been saying that they are going out of busines for several years, but tey might actually be finally doing that from the sudden lowering of prices. 

I cant remember all the colors, but if anyone wants to pay me for shipping, i would be willing to look for thier color.  

also, there did not seem to be any white, but i could be rememering wrong.

jordana

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Aug 27 08:42:46 2005
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "historic costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Has anyone used Butterick 3713 (Queen Victoria gown)?
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Hi everyone,
I found a copy of this pattern on ebay (it's been discontinued so don't try
looking for it on the butterick website) and I was wondering if anybody who
has used it has an opinion on the sizing? In patterns I'm usually an 18 (in
tops at least, my hips are a size 20 but that's not an issue for this
pattern) but this one is only available in the 12-14-16 size range, would it
lend itself to being enlarged by a size or maybe it tends to be a bit large
anyway? (after all I'll be wearing it over a corset and most historical
patterns include too much ease) Or would I be better off paying extra for
one in a size 18 (I've found some from sellers in the US but that would
involve exchange rates and international postage)
Also does anybody have general tips for this dress (like flaws in the
instructions etc.)? I've looked at the GBACG pattern review
(http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/index.html for those who aren't familiar with
it) and the only objection people seem to have is the sleeve. So as this is
one of those rare patterns that looks _exactly_ like what I want with almost
no modifications (except that I want the more fitted sleeves common in the
1840s and it apparently needs boning in the back but it's not your own
creation if you don't do something to the pattern) when I compare this to
the amount of modifications I've made to other patterns to get them to look
'right' I thought this would be a good investment (especially as it's about
half what I'd pay if I bought it at full retail price)
Thanks,
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200508182056.j7IKsc5J051642@net.indra.com><20050826223927.75419.qmail@web30315.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20050826155313.03125d60@pop.surewest.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Fitting Issues (and linen prices)
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> At 03:39 PM 8/26/2005, you wrote:
> >Belatedly, I want to thank everyone that responded to
> >these messages.
> >
> >The future MIL has made her choice and really liked
> >the Florentine
> >-(http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML) - so we
> >are going with that, but with wide sleeves and a hair
> >style like the woman's on the left.

May I suggest having a look at some original images here
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/earlyflor/portfolio.html to
get a better idea of what it looked like when interpereted by somebody who
had seen the actual garment (as opposed to the print which is essentially a
copy of a copy)

> >
> >Burgundy in a jacquard over a solid dark (navy) blue,
> >and the sleeves lined with a lightweight burgundy
> >color. Adding a chemise is out of the question as she
> >was balking at two layers.
> >
> >Any ideas what would be a good lining fabric - I was
> >thinking of a light weight satin (if there is such a
> >thing).
> >
> >Thanks again,
> >Annette M

Well 'china silk' AKA habotai is a lightweight satin, but it will really
insulate, if she won't wear a linen chemise then I would make the lining out
of linen (or maybe cotton if linen is too expensive or difficult to find) to
allow airflow.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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In a message dated 8/27/2005 1:13:06 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

http://www.antiquedress.com/gallerymuseum1new.htm



Wonderful!!!!!
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20050827045627.F69ECA89@dm22.mta.everyone.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 23:35:11 +1000
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joannah Hansen" <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen


> Drat and blast! I had a look at the link, and the turquoise blue looked
just about perfect for us to use, especially at that price - *but they don't
ship international!*
>
> Sniffle....
>
> Oh well. I can understand their reasoning.
>
> Joannah.

And at least they now actually tell you, a couple of years ago I looked up
their shipping policy and they just failed to mention anything outside the
USA.
However if you're interested in wool Fabric.com has a 20% all their wool
(http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric.aspx) I bought
some grey tropical weight wool (in the 50% off clearance section with an
extra 20% coupon) for US $3.18/yd yesterday (they used to sell by the metre
but it looks like they've dropped that policy) they also have other wools
for about $7/yd (and wool blends for about $5/yd) but you've only got a
couple of days before the sale ends so you'll need to get in fast.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 06:45:03 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query, cloth terms
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At 10:42 PM -0500 8/26/05, Robin Netherton wrote:
>A friend is sending off some scholarly material to a publisher, and wants
>to doublecheck some information. She got it from a published source, but
>it's a bit out of her area, and she wants to make sure the source hasn't
>been superceded (or wasn't incorrect in the first place).
>
>So -- I'd love to know if anyone has any hesitations about the following
>passage, which is her own wording based on the published information. The
>context is 12th c. France:
>
>	Commercial relations with the Orient expanded rapidly, bringing
>	cendal, a silk similar to our modern taffeta, often red, paile, a
>	brocaded silk from Alexandria, siglaton, a gold brocade for luxury
>	garments, osterin, a purple silk, and samite, a heavily
>	embroidered silk, often with precious metal.
>
>Cendal, paile, siglaton, osterin, and samite are all italicized. I believe
>she is secure about the fabric words themselves; it's the definitions she
>wants to verify.

In technical textile contexts, I have generally seen "samite" used 
_currently_ to describe a type of weave -- the sources I can lay 
hands on at the moment describe it as a 1:2 weft-faced compound 
twill.  That is, the modern writers are using it as a technical term 
for this specific weave types.  I don't know whether it might have 
had a different or more general meaning in the 12th century.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
<http://heatherrosejones.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Lining fabric, was Re: Fitting issues
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Hi All,

Yes, it is the over dress that will be in a jacquard.
The main (under) dress will be linen. The lining is
for the sleeves, as she wants something contrasting if
she turns up the cuffs - I had to talk her out of
elbow length sleeves. Sorry that I wasn't more
specific on that detail.

"Due to fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very
fitted.....Her dress does not have to be historically
accurate, just look the part." ...Other than those two
specifics, comfort is the biggest issue, and as she
probably won't be wearing the dress for more than an
hour or two and then never again, (if she actually
comes at all) I don't want to put a large amount of
time and effort into it.

Thank you for all the suggestions. I like the
"appearance of a chemise" idea.

Some of the links in an earlier reply provided some
more original references, and yes, it is more drapey.

Thanks again,
Annette M


>Lack of a linen undergarment will less comfortable. 
>If she is very 
>insistent on not wearing a chemise, use lightweight
>linen in the 
>appropriate color to line the gown. Satin is a
>fairly tight weave and 
>generally does not breathe all that well, whether it
>is silk or not, 
>so I would not use satin for the lining.
>
>Joan Jurancich
>
>
>From: AlbertCat@aol.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Fitting Issues (and linen
>prices)
>
>Do remember that that is a 2nd hand image done in
>the 1840s and has 
>some  
>Victorian flair to it. See if you can find the
>original inspiration for 
>that plate. 
>
>The fabrics might be a little more drapey in the
>original.
> And the sleeve poofs can of course be
>faked...realistically by actually 
>making up the little sleeve bits and lacing them all
>together over a  
>full very light linen [or something like it]
>undersleeve all set into the gown's  
>armseye together. Add a bit of fake chemise neckline
>to the gown's neckline and  
>it will looks great....like she's wearing a chemise.
>
>All so true.
>
>If you were meaning the over-gown...the
>Jacquard...you needn't line it 
>if it's a real Jacquard. The "wrong" side will look
>fine. Just do french seams and  
>maybe bind the outer edges with the self fabric. Of
>course if it needs 
>some body, line it with some light crisp linen.
>
>----------------------
>original message

-(http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML) - so we
>are going with that, but with wide sleeves and a hair
>style like the woman's on the left.
>
>Burgundy in a jacquard over a solid dark (navy) blue,
>and the sleeves lined with a lightweight burgundy
>color. Adding a chemise is out of the question as she
>was balking at two layers.
>
>Any ideas what would be a good lining fabric - I was
>thinking of a light weight satin (if there is such a
>thing).
>
>Thanks again,
>Annette M


		
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Subject: [h-cost] 18th C. style fabrics for sale on Swedish site.
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I got this address from a Swedish friend. There is an English subtext 
for those of us who don't read Swedish (!). The fabrics look pretty 
good to me, but expensive as one would expect.

http://www.durantextiles.com/index.asp

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Fitting Issues (and linen prices)
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Quoting Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>:

>> At 03:39 PM 8/26/2005, you wrote:
>> >Belatedly, I want to thank everyone that responded to
>> >these messages.
>> >
>> >The future MIL has made her choice and really liked
>> >the Florentine
>> >-(http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML) - so we
>> >are going with that, but with wide sleeves and a hair
>> >style like the woman's on the left.
>
> May I suggest having a look at some original images here
> http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/earlyflor/portfolio.html to
> get a better idea of what it looked like when interpereted by somebody who
> had seen the actual garment (as opposed to the print which is essentially a
> copy of a copy)
>

I don't believe that the gown on the left is at Festive Attyre, however
you can see it in this painting by Carpaccio
http://www.wga.hu/art/c/carpacci/1ursula/2/90apothe.jpg
The center gown is also here.

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query, cloth terms
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Some brief technical notes on samite:
6-ply warp; weft-faced satin; compound twill. may be patterned or 
unpatterned, or used as base for embroidery
when patterned, more than one color is usually present in the patterning
compound weft-faced twill in silk;­ may have developed in Egypt or Syria and 
spread from there;­ the inner warp used singly or in pairs or groups of 
three or four­; main binding warp bound weft in the same twill in both 
pattern and background­; design was result of color change not texture

-E House 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Fitting Issues (and linen prices)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Fitting Issues (and linen prices)


>
> In a message dated 8/27/2005 12:06:44 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> kahlara@yahoo.com writes:
>
> http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML
>
>
> Do remember that that is a 2nd hand image done in the 1840s and has some
> Victorian flair to it. See if you can find the original inspiration for
that
> plate.

Here's the painting(s) this drawing is copied from:
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/earlyflor/3flor12.html
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/earlyflor/3flor11.html

Sheridan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query, cloth terms
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On Sat, 27 Aug 2005, E House wrote:

> Some brief technical notes on samite:
> 6-ply warp; weft-faced satin; compound twill. may be patterned or 
> unpatterned, or used as base for embroidery
> when patterned, more than one color is usually present in the patterning
> compound weft-faced twill in silk;­ may have developed in Egypt or Syria and 
> spread from there;­ the inner warp used singly or in pairs or groups of 
> three or four­; main binding warp bound weft in the same twill in both 
> pattern and background­; design was result of color change not texture

E, where did that information come from?

I have the strong feeling that "samite" in 12th c. literature may not have
the same meaning as "samite" today, so it would help to know whether this
source is defining the meaning today or in a particular period.

--Robin


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I haven't been able to find any major difference between samite today and 
samite then, beyond a different taste in the patterns.  Since samite by 
definition is a weave rather than a combination of weave, fiber, and weight 
(unlike say, denim) it hasn't really changed much. It was _generally_ but 
not exclusively made of silk... there were cheap versions with bast warps, 
for example.  The name itself comes from the Greek word hexamitos which 
means 6 threads, and which is the basic weaving unit for samite.

In other words, that's sort of like asking if 'velvet' means the same now as 
it did then. Modern velvet manufacture uses different looms and different 
fibers and different cutting methods, but in the technical sense they are 
both velvet.

The only change I've found happened sometime in the middle ages (I don't 
have notes on the time range) and is too technical for me: they started 
arranging the warp threads in pairs, with 2 main warps to each of 3 binding 
warps. Before that, they arranged 3 main and 3 binding warps in 1/2 or 2/1 
order. (The 1.2 weft-faced compound twills in the Crowfoot et al MOL 
Textiles book pp101-104 are examples of one or the other way of doing it, 
according to at least one source, but I might be missing something technical 
there.)  The introduction of drawlooms (which might have existed in the 
12thC) increased the complexity of the patterns, but didn't change the 
actual weave--it was still a samite structure.

If your friend were to give a brief description of samite, she might try 
something like this: 'a weft-faced compound twill frequently made of silk, 
often patterned, sometimes with gold or silver thread, and sometimes used as 
a base for embroidery.'  That is accurate for samite through the ages, 
although it's probably a longer description than she'd want to insert in 
that sentence!

Sources... I got a real samite bug a couple of years ago, and read 
everything about it that I could find, so I can't point you to one specific 
source.  While I didn't keep a strict bibliography for those notes, here are 
a few books/articles that I'm pretty sure were involved:

Geijir, Agnes, "The Textile Finds from Birka," in N.B. Harte and K.G. 
Ponting, eds. Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe. London: Heinemann. 
1983.

Geijer, Agnes. A History of Textile Art: A Selective Account, corrected 
edition. (London: Pasold Resaerch Fund in association with Sotheby Parke 
Bernet, 1982 [1979].

Muthesius, Anna. "Byzantine Influences Along the Silk Route: Central Asian 
Silks Transformed." Contact, Crossover, Continuity (Textile Society of 
America) (1994)

Muthesius, Anna. Byzantine Silk Weaving AD 400 to AD 1200. Vienna: Verlag 
Fassbaender, 1997.

Muthesius, Anna. "From Seed to Samite: Aspects of Byzantine Silk 
Production." Textile History 20:2 (1989)

Muthesius, Anna. Studies in Byzantine and Islamic Silk Weaving. London: 
Pindar Press, 1995.
John Becker and Donald B. Wagner, Pattern and Loom: A Practical Study of the 
Development of Weaving Techniques in China, Western Asia and Europe. 
(Copenhagen: Rhodos International Publishers, 1987) 105

Mechthild Flury-Lemberg, Textile Conservation and Research: A Documentation 
of the Textile Department on the Occasion of the Twentieth Anniversary of 
the Abegg Foundation.( Schriften der Abegg-Stiftung, Volume VII. Bern: 
Abegg-Stiftung, 1988.)

David Jenkins, ed. The Cambridge History of Western Textiles. (Cambridge, 
UK: Cambridge University Press, 2003)

There's tons more out there, but that's a start.

-E House 

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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen
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Thanks for the info, Elizabeth. I went and had a look, and while there are some lovely wools ( mmmm, cashmere and wool blend, mmmmm ) there isn't anything that suits ( unintentional pun, sorry;-> ) our needs at the moment, not like that turquoise blue wool would have.

Joannah.  

--- "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au> wrote:

From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 23:35:11 +1000
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joannah Hansen" <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap? wool and linen


> Drat and blast! I had a look at the link, and the turquoise blue looked
just about perfect for us to use, especially at that price - *but they don't
ship international!*
>
> Sniffle....
>
> Oh well. I can understand their reasoning.
>
> Joannah.

And at least they now actually tell you, a couple of years ago I looked up
their shipping policy and they just failed to mention anything outside the
USA.
However if you're interested in wool Fabric.com has a 20% all their wool
(http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric.aspx) I bought
some grey tropical weight wool (in the 50% off clearance section with an
extra 20% coupon) for US $3.18/yd yesterday (they used to sell by the metre
but it looks like they've dropped that policy) they also have other wools
for about $7/yd (and wool blends for about $5/yd) but you've only got a
couple of days before the sale ends so you'll need to get in fast.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th C. style fabrics for sale on Swedish site.
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I am *swooning* over the embroidered silks. Sigh....
Joannah

--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

I got this address from a Swedish friend. There is an English subtext 
for those of us who don't read Swedish (!). The fabrics look pretty 
good to me, but expensive as one would expect.

http://www.durantextiles.com/index.asp

Suzi


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Hi,

Someone wants me to make her a Victorian dress for her wedding.
She would like me to use Sari fabric.
Now I am wondering if they used sari fabric in the Victorian era for 
dresses.
I am not sure she really cares but I'd like to know what I am talking about.

Greetings,
       Deredere


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
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In a message dated 8/29/2005 10:49:46 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:

Someone  wants me to make her a Victorian dress for her wedding.
She would like me  to use Sari fabric.
Now I am wondering if they used sari fabric in the  Victorian era for 
dresses.
I am not sure she really cares but I'd like  to know what I am talking about.



"Victorian" of course covers a long period.  There were border woven  or 
printed fabrics used in the 1850s-60s; however, wouldn't you need more than  one 
sari to get enough breadths--and not sure if you could find two or more that  
matched.  I'm also thinking that sari silk might be too lightweight to hold  
the silhouette, unless you made one of the skirts with rows of ruffles, in which 
 case you need more than even 2 saris.
 
Certainly Indian silk per se would not be a stretch--after all, Victoria  was 
Empress of India!
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
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At 18:21 27/08/2005, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>Someone wants me to make her a Victorian dress for her wedding.
>She would like me to use Sari fabric.
>Now I am wondering if they used sari fabric in the Victorian era for dresses.
>I am not sure she really cares but I'd like to know what I am talking about.
>
>Greetings,
>       Deredere


I know that saris were definitely used in the early 19th century, for 
what we call Regency dresses. I also know that Kashmir shawls, (and 
Paisley)  were used to make dresses in the mid to later Victorian 
period, but I don't know whether saris were used. I'm sorry - that's 
not terribly helpful.

Suzi


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In a message dated 8/29/2005 10:55:46 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

I'm also  thinking that sari silk might be too lightweight to hold  
the  silhouette,


This is not a real concern. There are Victorian gowns [even bustle  ones] 
made of mull [ fine gauze, basically]. It's the underpinnings that give  the 
shape.
 
In the Kyoto book are some 1830s and 1840s day dresses made of sheer  fabrics 
and an 1850s gown made of a striped blue sheer with tucks decorating the  
skirt. The very sheerness of the fabric makes the wide tucks stand out.
 
The yardage thing IS a real concern, however. But mixed with a matching  
[plain] silk, you might be able to work it out...using the sari just for ruffles  
and trims with the main body and skirt of the gown in the matching silk.
 
After all, they made bustle gowns out of kimonos,  y'know.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
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India imports have a long history in Britain (after all, India was a 
British colony), and even the US.  (When I was working on _Fashions of 
the Gilded Age_, for 1877-1882, I came across a recommendation to buy a 
popular style of striped summer silk at the "India stores" in a 
_Harper's Bazar_ column called "New York Fashions."  The assumption was 
that everyone already knew where to find the India stores.)  Sheer 
fabrics, both cottons and silks, have also been summer and evening 
perennials since the late 18th century at least. 

As long you have enough fabric--and for some periods and styles it can 
be combined with another fabric--you're probably OK.  Even a rather 
foreign-looking pattern is OK; I've seen some definitely Indian-looking 
textile patterns on European, UK,  and US dresses in museum catalogs. 

The influence goes both ways, too.  The Indians have long manufactured, 
on their own or by commission, textiles designed to sell well in foreign 
markets.  And sari textile patterns, even those for Indian use, are by 
no means static.  I once saw an exhibition of saris at the Asian museum 
in San Francisco.  They were arranged in chronological order, and you 
could see the style changes and European influences very clearly.  For 
example, here were a number of very Art Nouveau saris from the late 19th 
and early 20th centuries.  My favorite in the whole exhibit was an 
exquisite Art Nouveau sari with a border of Victrolas, the type with the 
horn.  The bases of the Victrolas were lined up with the horns exploding 
from them like flowers. 

Fran

Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming

http://www.lavoltapress.com


AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

 

In a message dated 8/29/2005 10:49:46 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  

triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:



Someone  wants me to make her a Victorian dress for her wedding.

She would like me  to use Sari fabric.

Now I am wondering if they used sari fabric in the  Victorian era for 

dresses.

I am not sure she really cares but I'd like  to know what I am talking about.





 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
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>After all, they made bustle gowns out of kimonos,  y'know.

I'm sure you meant kimono fabric.  There's hardly enough material in one 
kimono to make a 2005 dress, let alone anything more voluminous.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] S-shaped needles?? (was Dorset buttons)
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It's the answer to my whinge about C-shaped needles!

Jean

Ynes Garcia <ynes@sskip.net> wrote
>These needles are used for sewing leather.  They're for thicker leather 
>than garment leather.  The triangular tip cuts the hole and the curve 
>gives the hand something to press against to make the hole.  Think of 
>the 2nd curve of the S as a handle for pushing through the first curve 
>as if it were a c-shaped needle.
>
>- Ynes
>
>Kimiko Small wrote:
>
>> While wandering through, I noticed they had "S" shaped needles.
>> http://www.woodedhamlet.com/threads_pins_needles/sewing_needles.htm
>> Bottom of the page.
>>
>> Anyone know what they would be best used for, or use them before, or 
>>anything? I've never seen this kind of needle before, and wanted to 
>>know more.
>
>
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-- 
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In a message dated 8/29/2005 5:08:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kayta@frys.com writes:

>After all, they made bustle gowns out of kimonos,   y'know.

I'm sure you meant kimono fabric.  There's hardly enough  material in one 
kimono to make a 2005 dress, let alone anything more  voluminous.





Nope. I meant Kimonos...picked apart and re sewn. There's an example of  this 
very thing in the Kyoto book....page 291 in the big 1 volume  book.
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> >After all, they made bustle gowns out of kimonos,   y'know.
>
>I'm sure you meant kimono fabric.  There's hardly enough  material in one
>kimono to make a 2005 dress, let alone anything more  voluminous.
>
>Nope. I meant Kimonos...picked apart and re sewn. There's an example of  this
>very thing in the Kyoto book....page 291 in the big 1 volume  book.

But there's not enough fabric in one kimono to make much of anything but a 
kimono.  So what's the picture in the Kyoto book?

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2005 16:41:37 -0500
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Depends on which era the Kimono came from and style. Some Kimonos have
trains with long wide sleeves. Modern kimonos usually don't have that much
but 188o they did.

De

-----Original Message-----
>After all, they made bustle gowns out of kimonos,  y'know.

I'm sure you meant kimono fabric.  There's hardly enough material in one
kimono to make a 2005 dress, let alone anything more voluminous.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com




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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
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At 02:29 PM 8/29/2005, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 8/29/2005 5:08:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>kayta@frys.com writes:
>
> >After all, they made bustle gowns out of kimonos,   y'know.
>
>I'm sure you meant kimono fabric.  There's hardly enough  material in one
>kimono to make a 2005 dress, let alone anything more  voluminous.
>
>Nope. I meant Kimonos...picked apart and re sewn. There's an example of  this
>very thing in the Kyoto book....page 291 in the big 1 volume  book.

And since kimonos are made of uncut lengths of fabric and are 
traditionally sewn with large stitches in order to be taken apart for 
washing, it would be easy to take them apart for other uses.  Since 
the traditional width of the fabric is only 22 or 23 inches, it would 
take a number of kimonos to get enough fabric for most 19th century dresses.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] S-shaped needles?? (was Dorset buttons)
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My thought exactly, Jean. Something to get through that thick buckram
whereI want it to go and have some sort of handle to boot!
LynnD

On 8/29/05, Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> It's the answer to my whinge about C-shaped needles!
> 
> Jean
> 
> Ynes Garcia <ynes@sskip.net> wrote
> >These needles are used for sewing leather.  They're for thicker leather
> >than garment leather.  The triangular tip cuts the hole and the curve
> >gives the hand something to press against to make the hole.  Think of
> >the 2nd curve of the S as a handle for pushing through the first curve
> >as if it were a c-shaped needle.
> >
> >- Ynes
> >
> >Kimiko Small wrote:
> >
> >> While wandering through, I noticed they had "S" shaped needles.
> >> http://www.woodedhamlet.com/threads_pins_needles/sewing_needles.htm
> >> Bottom of the page.
> >>
> >> Anyone know what they would be best used for, or use them before, or
> >>anything? I've never seen this kind of needle before, and wanted to
> >>know more.
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> --
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From: Jacqueline Johnson <kristalori@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
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Ah you said it for me. Old court kimonas were HUGE having acres of fabric in 
them and many layers. 

Bice

On 8/29/05, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> 
> Depends on which era the Kimono came from and style. Some Kimonos have
> trains with long wide sleeves. Modern kimonos usually don't have that much
> but 188o they did.
> 
> De
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
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At 02:41 PM 8/29/2005, you wrote:
>Depends on which era the Kimono came from and style. Some Kimonos have
>trains with long wide sleeves. Modern kimonos usually don't have that much
>but 188o they did.
>
>De


The really fancy and expensive kimonos of the Geisha might have enough 
fabric in them. The sleeves hang to the ground, and is wider than the width 
of outspread arms. They are even longer on the body than most, with fabric 
trailing the ground, even tho part of it is tucked under their obi. There 
are similar kinds used for formal "wedding" kimonos as well.

Kimiko

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
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At 02:29 PM 8/29/2005, you wrote:
>Nope. I meant Kimonos...picked apart and re sewn. There's an example of  this
>very thing in the Kyoto book....page 291 in the big 1 volume  book.


For those who don't have the Fashion book. From the text on page 290:
"Western European women wore kimonos as indoor wear, as dressing gowns, and 
Japanese kimonos were also re-tailored into Western European clothes. 
Especially popular was the white embroidered Japanese cloth, rinzu, used in 
the kimonos of samurai-class Japanese women at the end of the Tokugawa 
(Edo) period. This example is a dress, re-tailored in London from a 
Japanese kimono. The fabric still bears the marks showing that it was once 
a kimono."

The dress is a bustle dress of the 1870s, but only the bodice and overskirt 
survive. The fabric is very beautiful.

Kimiko

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
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Take a look at Kurosawa's RAN or THRONE OF BLOOD. Yards and yards!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Sent: Aug 29, 2005 4:58 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses


>After all, they made bustle gowns out of kimonos,  y'know.

I'm sure you meant kimono fabric.  There's hardly enough material in one 
kimono to make a 2005 dress, let alone anything more voluminous.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Hello, all --

I’m posting this on a couple of lists, so please forgive me if you get this more than once.

I’ve agreed to costume the local HS’s production of Cinderella, and I wanted to pick your brains about the magical transformation into the ball gown. This is what I’m thinking:

A fitted, elegant top w/ a wide, scoopy neck that goes below the waist. Over that she’d wear a (joined, but looking like two) peasanty blouse (w/ a higher neck that would cover the elegant top) and frumpy jumper, which would open as one unit down either the front or back, probably w/ Velcro, maybe w/ snaps. (She’ll have someone helping her pull off the quick change.) Whip off the frumpy jumper and attach a wrap-on skirt to the elegant top, very full but made of a soft, drapey material that wouldn’t weigh too much.

Does that sound like a workable plan? Are there other ideas that might work as well or better? Has anyone else dealt with a similar situation, and, if so, what was the best solution?

Thanks so much in advance for either advice or affirmation!

:)

KP


		
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
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At 22:41 29/08/2005, you wrote:
>Depends on which era the Kimono came from and style. Some Kimonos have
>trains with long wide sleeves. Modern kimonos usually don't have that much
>but 188o they did.
>
>De
>
>-----Original Message-----
> >After all, they made bustle gowns out of kimonos,  y'know.
>
>I'm sure you meant kimono fabric.  There's hardly enough material in one
>kimono to make a 2005 dress, let alone anything more voluminous.
>
>
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
>dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com


I have a full length wedding kimono which I believe dates from the 
30's. You could make a bustle bodice from it easily enough. The 
material for a kimono is roughly 21" wide, and comes beautifully 
wrapped and sealed. I made a Regency dress for a Japanese customer 
using this fabric. She brought me several kimonos which are very 
loosely put together, and said that she had brought them because silk 
"by the yard" was terribly expensive and hard to come by. (% years ago or so.)

Suzi


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In a message dated 8/29/2005 6:04:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kimiko@kimiko1.com writes:

The  dress is a bustle dress of the 1870s, but only the bodice and overskirt  
survive. The fabric is very beautiful.




Do you think that only the bodice and overskirt survive, or were they all  
that were made of the Japanese fabric?  There would certainly be enough  fabric 
in a kimono for that.
 
However, as to an 1850s or '60s gown, which started this discussion--even a  
voluminous kimono would probably not have enough fabric for that.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cinderella question
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How long do you have to change? 30 seconds can be very long indeed. If both  
costumes....whatever they are...are all made up as one even if they look like  
layers of different things, an invisible zipper down the back can get it on 
and  off in seconds. Also if the magical ball gown has tons of fullness and  
petticoats [attached] and is glittery with lame and beading and sequins, the  
contrast to the soot covered schemata will be breathtaking.
 
It is easier to take something off than put something on. The glittery ball  
bodice can be underdressed under the frumpy charwoman outfit which can be  
snatched off, and a full glittery skirt with attached petticoats can be  
added...securely with a real skirt hook. 
 
Avoid Velcro. It seems like a good idea but it isn't mainly because it's  
just a strip and it has no way to get it lined up correctly. Snaps are  
great...and big ones [whopper poppers] can be covered in fabric to  disappear. You just 
cover them [with thin fabric] and make a hole in the  male side for the 
little thing to stick up through and a hole on the female side  for it to snap into.
 
Don't forget, you can have time to change a wig and some makeup  too.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Aug 29 18:43:38 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
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In a message dated 8/29/2005 6:16:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

However,  as to an 1850s or '60s gown, which started this  discussion


No this discussion started with.... "Victorian".
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Subject: [h-cost] Gore problems
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Hi everyone,

   I hope I explain this problem well enough since it seems most of the 
time I have been having confusing everyone here with some of my questions.
    I've been using the pattern ideas from the book Tailor's Assistant.  
The dress I've been working on is the late 13th century dress.  Since my 
weight is constantly up and down, more up then down.... I decided to sew 
a dress that wasn't so fitted. 
     My problem is with the front and back gores.  I can get the top 
point of them to sew into the dress properly.  I finally figured out how 
to do the side ones. 
     Would it help if I split the front and the back of the dress  and 
then add the gores?  This seems more correct if I understand what I have 
been reading from all of you who are more experienced about the width of 
cloth during the 13th century period.
     Please help this poor confused still learning seamstress.  If you 
have any questions or confused by my question please ask.  And if you 
wish in private is fine.

Roscelin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cinderella question
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In a message dated 8/29/2005 6:41:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

Avoid  Velcro. It seems like a good idea but it isn't mainly because it's   
just a strip and it has no way to get it lined up correctly. 


Also, some people find the noise annoying, and the hook part can easily get  
caught on your fabric.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
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In a message dated 8/29/2005 6:42:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

No this  discussion started with.... "Victorian".



Yeah, you right!  And I pointed out in my first message that  "Victorian" 
covers a lot of ground, although I didn't specify the dates of late  1830s-1890s. 
 Seems many folks think crinoline when they think Victorian,  but the 
seamstress in question needs to clarify that with her client first  before doing 
anything else!
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2005 20:27:07 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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Hi, 
My 2¢, as someone who's having sari-buyers hunt down 18th
century-appropriate printed cottons in 21st-century India:

Just as AnnBWass has noted that "Victorian" covers a lot of ground, "sari
cloth" covers a lot of ground, too. A sari is really just a six-meter length
of fabric; most are about 45 inches wide. Lots have approximately yard-long
"anchal", "pallu", or "pallav" sections that are heavily ornamented and
thrown over the shoulder in the popular Nivi-style wrap; but not all saris
have fancy pallus. There are saris in many weights of cotton, with many
kinds of weaving techniques; there are saris in many grades and types and
weaves of silks; there are saris in synthetics; there are saris with
traditional prints, saris with modern prints, saris without prints; there
are saris with borders and saris without borders, saris with woven accents
and saris without, saris with metallic zari embellishment, and saris
without. Some of these fabrics are very much like fabrics used by Europeans
for gowns in some parts of the Victorian era, and some are utterly not. But
lots of them would be *pretty* made up into a bustle-style wedding gown,
depending on how much your bride cares about historic accuracy.

For some of the types of saris available now in natural fibers, check out
http://www.sarisafari.com. A lot of these styles are quite traditional and
have been available for hundreds of years, but not all.

As Fran of Lavolta press noted, India has a long history -- dating back to
the Middle Ages -- of producing fabrics for export. (Here is a fun exhibit
of some Indian export fabrics found in Egypt:
http://www.lsa.umich.edu/kelsey/galleries/Exhibits/Big_Textile/Big_Textile/R
iches_to_Rags.html)

HOWEVER, in the colorful history of British involvement with the Indian
textile trade, there are times when the export of textiles from India to
England, Europe, and/or America was variously restricted, taxed, and
sometimes even banned, in efforts to control trade and reduce competition
with British manufacturers. By the end of the British occupation of India,
the Indian textile industry was so depleted that the spinning wheel itself,
in MK Ghandi's hands, became a symbol of independence, as he promoted
"cottage industries" to restore India's industrial self-sufficiency. The
nation that quite probably developed the spinning wheel had become an
importer of cotton textiles, dependent on the factories of England. By the
middle of the 19th century -- 1850s and 1860s -- this process was well
underway. Nonetheless, as Fran detailed, the English cotton mills often took
elements and designs from the Indian prints, so a traditional print sari
today might nonetheless be a good, close facsimile of an *English* chintz
from mid-19th C. Alas, it's just not a simple question. But I can think of
lots of saris that would make gorgeous wedding gowns in that full-skirted
style, if the bride cares most about gorgeousness. If she cares most about
historical accuracy, she will need to do a little more research!

Good luck, and remember to send pictures!

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net
-- 
"One does not need buildings, money, power, or status to practice the Art of
Peace. Heaven is right where you are standing, and that is the place to
train." -- Morihei Ueshiba

> From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 19:21:12 +0200
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Someone wants me to make her a Victorian dress for her wedding.
> She would like me to use Sari fabric.
> Now I am wondering if they used sari fabric in the Victorian era for
> dresses.
> I am not sure she really cares but I'd like to know what I am talking about.
> 
> Greetings,
> Deredere



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Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2005 22:55:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gore problems
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On Mon, 29 Aug 2005, Rose Amberwulf wrote:

>      My problem is with the front and back gores.  I can get the top
> point of them to sew into the dress properly.  I finally figured out
> how to do the side ones.

I'm going to hazard a guess that you meant to write "I can't get the top
point..." since that's where a lot of people hang up. More about that in a
minute.

If you can get the top in place, it's routine work to then continue down
the sides. Sometimes I do this.

Alternatively, you can do the sides first, and then settle the top in
place. I actually prefer this method. Crucial to making this work is to
baste or pin both sides of the gore in place before sewing anything, being
careful not to stretch the off-grain edges. I do this by folding the body
piece on the center front slash, folding the gore and slipping it into the
space that will receive it, smoothing everything out flat (all the raw
edges stacked together) and carefully pinning or basting the two sets of
edges while they're all neatly centered and piled up.

Now, about that top point. Don't try to do it on the machine! Yes, it can
be done, but it requires a lot of finagling and can cause a lot of
frustration. Consider that the people who used this construction were
working by hand -- this was never designed to be done by machine. It's
much, much simpler by hand. If you do it by machine, you need to do a lot
of marking of seam allowances and turning points and so forth.  All very
exact -- too much like machine quilting for my taste ;-)

If I already have the sides in place, and just a couple of inches to
settle at the top, I slip the garment over my ironing board face-up and
lay the gore area flat, spreading the gore out, with the seam allowances
from the side seams turned toward the gore. I fold the seam allowances on
the gore point underneath and position it where I want it, and baste in
place. Then I blindstitch around the point from the front, then sew the
seam from the back to solidify it if necessary, then clip and finish the
allowances from the back.

If you want your point to be pointy, remember that your seam allowance on
the body piece will dwindle to nothing at the very top. Don't try that on
silk or linen! It works OK on a fulled wool. However, I'm not convinced
that 13th c. people placed much value on a pointy gore point. On the
Herjolfsnes garments (OK, they're 14th c.) the inset gores are distinctly
rounded or flattened at the top -- this is much easier to do (though only
if you're doing it by hand) and allows you to make a workable seam
allowance over the entire point, with the body piece clipped in several
spots around the "arch" shape of the point instead of just at the very
top. 

On the linen shirt of St. Louis, I believe the gore top is pointy, but the
attachment of the point is reinforced by thin strips that bind the long
seams of the gores and extend beyond the gore point by an inch or two,
crossing at the point. I should note that the handwork on that shirt is
unbelievably delicate -- the stitching on the binding is so very small,
and the seam allowances trimmed quite close (something that requires a
fine linen with a high thread count). But clearly they felt they needed
something to keep the point from tearing out at that spot, where the seam
allowances would have been vanishingly small. Heather can probably speak
more about the sewing methods here; she's the stitch expert ;-)

A few more tips: If you are sewing the long seams (down the sides of the
gore) by machine, make sure the top and bottom get pulled through at the
same rate. If it's basted, there's no trouble. Sew both sides of the gore
in the same direction (e.g. from top to bottom) with the stretchier edge
on the top (yes, you'll end up sewing one of the seams from the left
instead of the right). And don't cut the slash in the main piece quite as
high as you think you'll need it; do that when you're setting the top
point.

>      Would it help if I split the front and the back of the dress and
> then add the gores?  This seems more correct if I understand what I
> have been reading from all of you who are more experienced about the
> width of cloth during the 13th century period.

My understanding is that although the cloth was narrow, the front and back
tended to be made from a single width, so there's no seam down center
front or back. This seems to be one of the crucial innovations of the 14th
century fitting developments -- creation of a seam in center front (for a
laced opening) and center back (to shape to the spine). Offhand I can't
think of a single pre-14th c. example of a tunic or gown that shows a
center front or back seam, though if there is one, I'm sure someone on
this list will remember.

Bear in mind that period fabric widths were typically sufficient to cover
the *period* body with a single panel in front and a single panel in back,
plus gores and gussets as needed. However, if you try to use a 22-inch
width on a plus-size modern figure, it won't work -- you have to
compromise on either a non-period width or a non-period construction.

There's more support for having a two-piece gore. That's what shows up at
Herjolfsnes and in the St. Louis shirt, among other extant pieces.
Theoretically this would give you the chance to put the straight grain of
each gore half against the straight grain of the slashes, and the
stretchier angled grain in the center against its mate. That would help
avoid the problem of slippage along the long seams, which can make the
gore sit cockeyed. I don't know if that was done -- I'd have to get out my
slides of the St. Louis shirt to see where the grain falls. Frankly, I
think what's more important is not to make your gore too fat. If your gore
pieces are relatively narrow, the angled edges tend not to be very far off
the grain, and stretch doesn't become so much of an issue regardless of
where the off-grain edge goes.

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2005 23:01:50 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gore problems
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At 10:55 PM -0500 8/29/05, Robin Netherton wrote:

<a bunch of great practical advice on gore insertion>


>On the linen shirt of St. Louis, I believe the gore top is pointy, but the
>attachment of the point is reinforced by thin strips that bind the long
>seams of the gores and extend beyond the gore point by an inch or two,
>crossing at the point. I should note that the handwork on that shirt is
>unbelievably delicate -- the stitching on the binding is so very small,
>and the seam allowances trimmed quite close (something that requires a
>fine linen with a high thread count). But clearly they felt they needed
>something to keep the point from tearing out at that spot, where the seam
>allowances would have been vanishingly small. Heather can probably speak
>more about the sewing methods here; she's the stitch expert ;-)

Although Burnham (and everyone who follows her) shows this gore as 
having a pointed top, this is a misleading simplification.  The gore 
is actually slightly gathered at the top, and so the actual "pattern 
piece" must have a somewhat flattened top.  I don't know that we can 
conclude that the binding was intended to reinforce the top of the 
point -- although it may well have had that effect.  _All_ the seams 
on this garment are finished with a tape binding, and the extension 
of the tapes into an overlapping "X" at the top of the gore, 
similarly to the same effect at the center front of the neck facing, 
seems to be designed to cope with the acuteness of the angle (i.e., 
rather than trying to turn the corner with a continuous tape).

Heather
-- 
*****
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heather.jones@earthlink.net
<http://heatherrosejones.com>
*****
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Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 10:34:32 +0100 (BST)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] kyoto isbn?
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Status: RO

Hello

I can't find the ISBN details for this Kyoto book that
has been discussed. There is one called 'Fashion in
Detail' available on Amazon uk for £14 but I want to
make sure it is the right edition. Am I right to think
there has been another one more recently in two
volumes?

Sorry to bother you all but this hadn't made it into
the searchable archives and I ruthlessly over-pruned
my back issues...

Many thanks,

Katherine



		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Genie Barrett <maggie.gene@justinanimator.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gore problems
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At 01:01 AM 8/30/2005, you wrote:

>Although Burnham (and everyone who follows her) shows this gore as 
>having a pointed top, this is a misleading simplification.  The gore 
>is actually slightly gathered at the top, and so the actual "pattern 
>piece" must have a somewhat flattened top.  I don't know that we can 
>conclude that the binding was intended to reinforce the top of the 
>point -- although it may well have had that effect.  _All_ the seams 
>on this garment are finished with a tape binding, and the extension 
>of the tapes into an overlapping "X" at the top of the gore, 
>similarly to the same effect at the center front of the neck facing, 
>seems to be designed to cope with the acuteness of the angle (i.e., 
>rather than trying to turn the corner with a continuous tape).

Heather and Robin are well educated in this.  I have a lot of 
admiration for both of them.  Here's another option for using a 
sewing machine that works really well for me.  It may not be period 
or accurate, but after a few practices, I can get a very smooth insert.

http://sca-garb.freeservers.com/articles/cotehardie.html

Good luck
Genie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kyoto isbn?
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katherine sanders wrote:
> Hello
> 
> I can't find the ISBN details for this Kyoto book that
> has been discussed. There is one called 'Fashion in
> Detail' available on Amazon uk for £14 but I want to
> make sure it is the right edition. Am I right to think
> there has been another one more recently in two
> volumes?

Fashion in Detail is another book entirely. The one we've been 
discussing has been this one: (warning-- adult content link)

FASHION: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century
http://budplant.com/product.asp?pn=FASH


I would, and have, ordered from Bud Plant without hesitation.

Hmmn, amazon.uk has two titles by that name, both from Taschen, with 
significantly different page counts.


Dawn

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century /ot
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Hi.
I just got back from 2 weeks vacation on Madeira, and on my vacation i have 
read a wonderfull book about a danish poet who lived in early 18th century. 
His name was Ambrosius Stub.
In the book, there is a lady who in private smokes cigarillos, and i just 
wondered, did cigarillos (imported from Spain) really excist?
I always have a problem when i smoke, because my clay pipe breaks during my 
travellings and they are very fragile.
If this was true about cigarillos, perhaps i could use this in stead?

Many greetings

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century /ot
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In a message dated 8/30/2005 3:24:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

In the  book, there is a lady who in private smokes cigarillos, and i just  
wondered, did cigarillos (imported from Spain) really excist?
I always  have a problem when i smoke, because my clay pipe breaks during my  
travellings and they are very fragile.
If this was true about  cigarillos, perhaps i could use this in stead?



It was my understanding that cigars/cigarillos were developed in the very  
late 18th or early 19th century, but I haven't seen exact documentation.  
 
Just did a Google!, and cigars seem to have first been made in Spain in the  
early 18th century, and spread from there after the Peninsular Wars  
(1808-1814).  So it seems possible, but not likely, that the woman was  smoking them.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Wool Challis weave questions
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I was looking at some, solid colored,  imported 100% wool challis which 
is one of the nicest, lightweight wools I have seen anywhere.  It has a 
very distinctive diagonal "twill" pattern to it.  I read here: 
http://www.ntgi.net/ICCF&D/wool.htm#challis  that Challis "originated in 
Norwich England in 1832."   If I hadn't been told it was challis, I 
would just have called it a diagonal twill weave.....can anyone tell me 
why I couldn't use this for anything from 1400-1600?

Sg
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Dear Ann,
Thanks for this, i could have googled myself, but i hoped that somebody knew 
about this.
Well then i could smoke a cigar then, when i get desperate.
Two expensive for me with all those ruined pipes.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2005 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century /ot


>
> In a message dated 8/30/2005 3:24:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
> In the  book, there is a lady who in private smokes cigarillos, and i just
> wondered, did cigarillos (imported from Spain) really excist?
> I always  have a problem when i smoke, because my clay pipe breaks during 
> my
> travellings and they are very fragile.
> If this was true about  cigarillos, perhaps i could use this in stead?
>
>
>
> It was my understanding that cigars/cigarillos were developed in the very
> late 18th or early 19th century, but I haven't seen exact documentation.
>
> Just did a Google!, and cigars seem to have first been made in Spain in 
> the
> early 18th century, and spread from there after the Peninsular Wars
> (1808-1814).  So it seems possible, but not likely, that the woman was 
> smoking them.
>
> Ann Wass
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Aug 30 16:34:24 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 22:33:53 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] beautifull reproduktions of silks and calicoes
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Hi,
I just wanted to share this wonderfull site with you. Prices are shameless 
expensive, and i will never have that much money to spend on a costume.
Duran also makes beautifull theater costumes. Dont miss to browse her 
picture gallery of wonderfull 18th century hairstyles, hats and 
costumes...........
She is a member of the gustavian society.
http://www.durantextiles.com/


Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Linen bargain alert
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I just noticed that Fabric.com has hanky and medium weight 100% linen on sale for $6.12 a yard until Sept. 5. They have nine colors, including two shades of white. 
 
Tea Rose
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Subject: [h-cost] re: kyoto book
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Thanks for the link Dawn - I could find one book with
a similar cover on Amazon UK but there were other
books on that page that /seem/ to be the same thing
with, as you say, different page numbers and covers!

Now I'm totally confused. I could work out that two of
them (with same number of pages but same publication
date) seem to have 720 pages - does that sound right
to those who already have the book?

Sorry for confusion,
katherine


	
	
		
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: kyoto book
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Dear Katherine.
The book disgussed about is the Taschen book wich is Kyotos big thick 
heavily loaded book with 720 gorgeous photos of closeup detailed costumes.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "katherine sanders" <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 12:18 AM
Subject: [h-cost] re: kyoto book


> Thanks for the link Dawn - I could find one book with
> a similar cover on Amazon UK but there were other
> books on that page that /seem/ to be the same thing
> with, as you say, different page numbers and covers!
>
> Now I'm totally confused. I could work out that two of
> them (with same number of pages but same publication
> date) seem to have 720 pages - does that sound right
> to those who already have the book?
>
> Sorry for confusion,
> katherine
>
>
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] re: kyoto book
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I'm not absolutely positive but the 720 page beautiful monster is the
original(which I have), the two volume set is a reprint with perhaps a
few minor changes. A third book, entitled Costume that I spotted at my
local Borders bookstore is smaller, has just about everything in the big
and 2 volume set and is good for those that don't want the big one, just
some highlights.

Cindy Abel 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of katherine sanders
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2005 5:18 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] re: kyoto book

Thanks for the link Dawn - I could find one book with a similar cover on
Amazon UK but there were other books on that page that /seem/ to be the
same thing with, as you say, different page numbers and covers!

Now I'm totally confused. I could work out that two of them (with same
number of pages but same publication
date) seem to have 720 pages - does that sound right to those who
already have the book?

Sorry for confusion,
katherine


	
	
		
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I had promised last week that we would have a free access to our Library at the beginning of this week.  I am taking some days off this week and have to cancel the free access. A lot of people have written asking about the Library access.  After you read the following I think you will understand why I am taking a few days off. 

Several of you know that I am from the Mississippi Gulf Coast . I was there for two family unions in July. I am from Biloxi/Ocean Springs area and my husband is from Gulfport.  Both of us have very large extended families there.  They live from Slidell, Louisiana to Mobile, Alabama.  I have five siblings and my Mom, my husband have two siblings living on the Gulf Coast.  Several of our family members have lost their homes, jobs, and businesses to the Hurricane.  My husband's sister in Colorado Springs, my sister in Tampa, and I have been frantically trying to locate our families.  Monday morning was the last we heard from those family members that didn't evacuate. Now they don't have phone are internet access.  Even the ones who left on the Coast, their cell phones are not working because their area code is for the Gulf Coast.   

My husband's brother and sister, their spouses, and six children were in the same home, in North Gulfport. They were at the brother's home.  The last time we spoke was Monday at 11:00 AM.  Their electricity was out and we were talking by cell 15 mins. before the worse part of the hurricane.  They didn't know the hurricane eye was heading for them until we called.   The sister's home, (my husband's family home since 1920) was about five blocks from the beach in Gulfport.  We don't know if the family home is still there, but from photos on TV, we don't have much hope.  The home is near where you are seeing the news film where the Dole banana trailers for semi-trucks, Grand Casino, and downtown Gulfport.  

My Aunt lived two streets from the beach in the same area of Gulfport and we are sure her home is gone... my aunt did evacuate.  We don't know where another eldery aunt 

My mother evacuated to Hattiesburg, Mississippi to my 4th brother house.  We talked with them on the phone giving them updates on the hurricane until 15 minutes before the eye of the hurricane hit.  Today my sister got in touch with him.  He could only talk for a couple of minutes.  They took some damage to their house but can live in it.  He is a fireman and went to the city, but had to use a chainsaw to cut down trees on the road to get to the city.  He did see some TV footage at the firehouse.  My mother doesn't know how bad the Gulf Coast is and that she probably doesn't have a house anymore.  Her house was near the Beau Riverage casino and the Lighthouse on the beach in Biloxi... near the apt. complex that 30 people died in.  Mom worked for my business and my  3rd brother.  The apts. that I mentioned was on a street between Mom's house and my brother's business.  We don't think he has a business or home anymore.  We heard from brother #3 today.  He evacuated to Pensacola.  He lived in a condo on the beach in Pass Christian.  That area took the eye of the hurricane and it is so bad there that very few reporters can get there.

Brother #2 is working off the coast of Africa for the past month.  He lives in Gautier, MS.  His entire family (children and grandchildren) evacuated to Northern Louisiana.  We have not idea how their house faired.  My brother is due to come in from Africa Wed. or Thurs. night.  We don't even know where he is coming into... we can't get threw to his families' cell phone.  Ironically he is the boss over several oil rigs in Africa.

My 1st brother primary home and businesses in Mobile, Alabama faired well. We just heard from heard from this brother tonight.   He has generators and is bringing one to my 4th brother's home in Hattiesburg.  We believe my 1st brother lost his new vacation home on Dauphin Island, Alabama.   

We haven't heard from my 2nd second and her daughter's family.  They rode the storm out in northern Ocean Springs.  This sister has MS and we are very worried about her.  Because of the MS is can't take the 95 degree coastal weather without a/c. Her husband works on the oil rigs in the Gulf of Mexico.  We don't know if he made it inland before the hurricane hit or not.  Normally they come in the mouth of the Mississippi River which was hit first by the hurricane.  My niece and her husband worked at the Grand Casino in Biloxi, and are now unemployed.  The hurricane pushed this casino across the highway.  

My husband's family in Pearl River and Slidell, Louisiana have lost their homes to the floods.  They had evacuated to northern Louisiana.  We have heard from them.

For our subscribers, you saw my photos in the Library of the huge historic antebellum homes on the beach in Pass Christian.  I took those photos in July, ironically again during a tropical storm.  I just saw news footage of that area and all those home are gone.  Some of those homes had been there since the 1830s.  Another irony, this town is named after one of my husband's great-grandfathers who discovered the pass between the islands and the Gulf Coast.  His name was Christian Ladnier and was one of the founding families of the area between New Orleans and Mobile.  That's why we have so many family members in this area.  My husband has so many cousins in this area and we just don't know where they are now. 

It is so heartbreaking to see an area that we grew up into adulthood so torn apart.  We don't know what our family members are going to do for homes or income.  All the businesses have been destroyed.  

We are just some of the thousands who are trying to find our families on the Gulf Coast.  If you want to help, send money to the American Red Cross or the Salvation Army.  Write in the memo section Hurricane Katrina and the organizations promised to use the monies for that cause.  These charities are sending in teams to feed the Coastal residents.  Please keep all the Gulf Coastal residents and their families in your prayers.

I am sorry if there are spelling or grammar errors in this message.  I just don't have the heart to read over what I just wrote.  I have cried so much, my head hurts.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Oh Penny, I'm so sorry to hear how hard Katrina has hit your family! Don't worry about us, don't even worry about the Costume Library. Both the Library and H-costume will be here when you need us. Do what you need to do for yourself and your family. I can't speak for anybody else, but your family will be in my thoughts this evening and I will send all the good energy I can down to them from the other end of the Mighty Mississippi. 
 
Your friend in Chicago,
 
Karen
Seamstrix
 


-- "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
I had promised last week that we would have a free access to our Library at the beginning of this week.  I am taking some days off this week and have to cancel the free access. A lot of people have written asking about the Library access.  After you read the following I think you will understand why I am taking a few days off. 

Several of you know that I am from the Mississippi Gulf Coast . I was there for two family unions in July. I am from Biloxi/Ocean Springs area and my husband is from Gulfport.  Both of us have very large extended families there.  They live from Slidell, Louisiana to Mobile, Alabama.  I have five siblings and my Mom, my husband have two siblings living on the Gulf Coast.  Several of our family members have lost their homes, jobs, and businesses to the Hurricane.  My husband's sister in Colorado Springs, my sister in Tampa, and I have been frantically trying to locate our families.  Monday morning was the last we heard from those family members that didn't evacuate. Now they don't have phone are internet access.  Even the ones who left on the Coast, their cell phones are not working because their area code is for the Gulf Coast.   

My husband's brother and sister, their spouses, and six children were in the same home, in North Gulfport. They were at the brother's home.  The last time we spoke was Monday at 11:00 AM.  Their electricity was out and we were talking by cell 15 mins. before the worse part of the hurricane.  They didn't know the hurricane eye was heading for them until we called.   The sister's home, (my husband's family home since 1920) was about five blocks from the beach in Gulfport.  We don't know if the family home is still there, but from photos on TV, we don't have much hope.  The home is near where you are seeing the news film where the Dole banana trailers for semi-trucks, Grand Casino, and downtown Gulfport.  
<Lots of snippage>
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Penny, all my good thoughts go out to you and your family. ::Virtual Hug:: 
Please, please let me know what I can do to help. Bridgette
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storm update
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Oh Penny, we are so, so sorry.  Please know our prayers and good thoughts are with you and all your family and if there's ANYTHING we can do to help in any way at all, please, please ask.
 
<HUG>
 
Chris G. and Family 

Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
I had promised last week that we would have a free access to our Library at the beginning of this week. I am taking some days off this week and have to cancel the free access. A lot of people have written asking about the Library access. After you read the following I think you will understand why I am taking a few days off. 

Several of you know that I am from the Mississippi Gulf Coast . I was there for two family unions in July. I am from Biloxi/Ocean Springs area and my husband is from Gulfport. Both of us have very large extended families there. They live from Slidell, Louisiana to Mobile, Alabama. I have five siblings and my Mom, my husband have two siblings living on the Gulf Coast. Several of our family members have lost their homes, jobs, and businesses to the Hurricane. My husband's sister in Colorado Springs, my sister in Tampa, and I have been frantically trying to locate our families. Monday morning was the last we heard from those family members that didn't evacuate. Now they don't have phone are internet access. Even the ones who left on the Coast, their cell phones are not working because their area code is for the Gulf Coast. 


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Wool Challis weave questions
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 20:31:54 -0500
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I think part of the definition of challis is also that it's a print on a
dark ground. Otherwise, you'd just have a lightweight wool twill.

So if it's a solid color, it's not challis and you could use it.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Saragrace
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2005 3:13 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Wool Challis weave questions


I was looking at some, solid colored,  imported 100% wool challis which 
is one of the nicest, lightweight wools I have seen anywhere.  It has a 
very distinctive diagonal "twill" pattern to it.  I read here: 
http://www.ntgi.net/ICCF&D/wool.htm#challis  that Challis "originated in

Norwich England in 1832."   If I hadn't been told it was challis, I 
would just have called it a diagonal twill weave.....can anyone tell me 
why I couldn't use this for anything from 1400-1600?

Sg
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My heart goes out to you and your family Penny. I hope
you hear from all of them soon.

I watched an hour of news videos online this afternoon
and the devastation is terrible. You provided me with
my first news on the Slidell area. One of my best
friends lives in Lacombe and I am worried as I had not
talked to her recently and they frequently have
flooding. I am hoping she was able to evacuate safely
and am waiting to hear from her. But I have little
hope that their home was spared damage.

Annette M








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> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. about smoking in 18th century /ot (Bjarne og
> Leif Drews)
>    2. Re: about smoking in 18th century /ot
> (AnnBWass@aol.com)
>    3. Wool Challis weave questions (Saragrace)
>    4. Re: about smoking in 18th century /ot (Bjarne
> og Leif Drews)
>    5. beautifull reproduktions of silks and calicoes
>       (Bjarne og Leif Drews)
>    6. Linen bargain alert (tearoses@aol.com)
>    7. re: kyoto book (katherine sanders)
>    8. Re: re: kyoto book (Bjarne og Leif Drews)
>    9. RE: re: kyoto book (Abel, Cynthia)
>   10. Storm update (Penny Ladnier)
>   11. Re: Storm update (penhalion@juno.com)
>   12. Re: Storm update (Marie Stewart)
>   13. Re: Storm update (Chris)
> 
> 
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 21:22:31 +0200
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
> <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Subject: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century /ot
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <002a01c5ad98$2eab2710$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed;
> charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
> 
> 
> Hi.
> I just got back from 2 weeks vacation on Madeira,
> and on my vacation i have 
> read a wonderfull book about a danish poet who lived
> in early 18th century. 
> His name was Ambrosius Stub.
> In the book, there is a lady who in private smokes
> cigarillos, and i just 
> wondered, did cigarillos (imported from Spain)
> really excist?
> I always have a problem when i smoke, because my
> clay pipe breaks during my 
> travellings and they are very fragile.
> If this was true about cigarillos, perhaps i could
> use this in stead?
> 
> Many greetings
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 15:29:34 EDT
> From: AnnBWass@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century
> /ot
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <97.66a4e016.30460d9e@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> 
>  
> In a message dated 8/30/2005 3:24:21 P.M. Eastern
> Standard Time,  
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
> 
> In the  book, there is a lady who in private smokes
> cigarillos, and i just  
> wondered, did cigarillos (imported from Spain)
> really excist?
> I always  have a problem when i smoke, because my
> clay pipe breaks during my  
> travellings and they are very fragile.
> If this was true about  cigarillos, perhaps i could
> use this in stead?
> 
> 
> 
> It was my understanding that cigars/cigarillos were
> developed in the very  
> late 18th or early 19th century, but I haven't seen
> exact documentation.  
>  
> Just did a Google!, and cigars seem to have first
> been made in Spain in the  
> early 18th century, and spread from there after the
> Peninsular Wars  
> (1808-1814).  So it seems possible, but not likely,
> that the woman was  smoking them.
>  
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 13:13:06 -0700
> From: Saragrace <sg@saragrace.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] Wool Challis weave questions
> To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <4314BDD2.6030606@saragrace.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1;
> format=flowed
> 
> I was looking at some, solid colored,  imported 100%
> wool challis which 
> is one of the nicest, lightweight wools I have seen
> anywhere.  It has a 
> very distinctive diagonal "twill" pattern to it.  I
> read here: 
> http://www.ntgi.net/ICCF&D/wool.htm#challis  that
> Challis "originated in 
> Norwich England in 1832."   If I hadn't been told it
> was challis, I 
> would just have called it a diagonal twill
> weave.....can anyone tell me 
> why I couldn't use this for anything from 1400-1600?
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 22:31:12 +0200
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
> <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century
> /ot
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <001601c5ada1$c64bbf40$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed;
> charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
> 
> Dear Ann,
> Thanks for this, i could have googled myself, but i
> hoped that somebody knew 
> about this.
> Well then i could smoke a cigar then, when i get
> desperate.
> Two expensive for me with all those ruined pipes.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2005 9:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century
> /ot
> 
> 
> >
> > In a message dated 8/30/2005 3:24:21 P.M. Eastern
> Standard Time,
> > drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
> >
> > In the  book, there is a lady who in private
> smokes cigarillos, and i just
> > wondered, did cigarillos (imported from Spain)
> really excist?
> > I always  have a problem when i smoke, because my
> clay pipe breaks during 
> > my
> 
=== message truncated ===



		
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1d9.42e77032.3038bc38@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Martha McCain pattern (cross post)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 3:02 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Martha McCain pattern (cross post)


>
> In a message dated 8/20/2005 3:19:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> ewalpole@tpg.com.au writes:
>
> http://snipurl.com/h35y    http://snipurl.com/h35z
>
>
> These don't look narrow to me. Granted they aren't pagoda
sleeves....they're
> NARROWER.... but I'd not say they are fitted at  all. And the other
examples
> are all split at the bottom to give that bell shape  with the engagent or
> poofed to have a full silhouette...the effect of the blue  dress with the
two
> upper arm poofs. The trend is definitely to have fullness on  the arm.
>
> And the skirts are flat pleated.
>
<snip>
I was looking at the GBACG pattern review site
(http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/simplicity.htm) and reading this note
"One of the ladies who creates many of the costume patterns for Simplicity
was a presenter at Costume Con in Utah ... Another interesting fact she
mentioned was that no design can take over 3 sheets of tissue.  If it does
she either has to abandon the design or take one or two additional "views"
of a single pattern out."
It occurred to me that this would explain why the skirts are rectangular
instead of gored, pattern pieces for a gored skirt would take up large
amounts of tissue paper (and almost certainly put you over the 3 sheets
limit) whereas a cartridge pleated skirt only needs directions to cut out
rectangles of X length and the full width of the fabric. I know their
Elizabethan costume (8881 the Shakespeare in Love dress) compromises using
only a few triangular gores (pattern pieces) with instructions to add
rectangular pieces, but apparently they couldn't do that for this pattern.
For a novice sewer it's much easier to tell them to cut their yardage into 5
pieces of X length and the full width of the fabric than to try to give them
instructions on how to create a gored skirt.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storm update
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At 05:16 PM 8/30/2005, you wrote:
>I had promised last week that we would have a free access to our Library 
>at the beginning of this week.  I am taking some days off this week and 
>have to cancel the free access. A lot of people have written asking about 
>the Library access.  After you read the following I think you will 
>understand why I am taking a few days off. <snip>


Penny, you know from me that family comes first. Your family needs matters 
more than anything we want to do. You have the prayers of my family and me, 
and any help you need; just ask.

Take care,

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 22:19:49 -0400
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>>After all, they made bustle gowns out of kimonos,   y'know.
>
> I'm sure you meant kimono fabric.  There's hardly enough  material in one
> kimono to make a 2005 dress, let alone anything more  voluminous.
>
> Nope. I meant Kimonos...picked apart and re sewn. There's an example of 
> this
> very thing in the Kyoto book....page 291 in the big 1 volume  book.

And anyway, there's about just enough fabric on a roll of kimono fabric to 
make one kimono, so it doesn't make a big difference (except having to deal 
with seams). 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: kyoto book
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 22:26:44 -0400
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> Now I'm totally confused. I could work out that two of
> them (with same number of pages but same publication
> date) seem to have 720 pages - does that sound right
> to those who already have the book?

Probably one is the original, and the other one is the reprint (in two 
volumes). And also... there has been mistakes before with Amazon - they 
might have listed the exact same book twice by accident. 
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Subject: [h-cost] beautifull reproduktions of silks and calicoes
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OMIGOSH!  These are gorgeous...and the embroidered silk is to die for.
Can someone more knowledgeable about European currency give me an idea of
what it would cost per meter (I can handle meter, just not the Euro or ca or
SEK.

All prices in SEK and includes VAT. 1? = ca. 9:30 SEK

Thanks
Julie
-----Original Message-----

   

Hi,
I just wanted to share this wonderfull site with you. Prices are shameless 
expensive, and i will never have that much money to spend on a costume.
Duran also makes beautifull theater costumes. Dont miss to browse her 
picture gallery of wonderfull 18th century hairstyles, hats and 
costumes...........
She is a member of the gustavian society.
http://www.durantextiles.com/


Bjarne

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To: Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Hugs and prayers.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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>Ah you said it for me. Old court kimonas were HUGE having acres of fabric in
them and many layers.

The term for that garment, worn by Empress & court is juni hito-e, not
kimono. There are 12 layers (hence ju-ni) and the layers rarely
matched. Matter if fact, it was a point of art to have the layers
harmonious with the season, with the holiday and/or event.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storm update
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 10:16 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Storm update


I had promised last week that we would have a free access to our Library at
the beginning of this week.  I am taking some days off this week and have to
cancel the free access. A lot of people have written asking about the
Library access.  After you read the following I think you will understand
why I am taking a few days off.
<snip>
Penny,
I'm so sorry to hear about your family, but on the topic of the Costume
Library if you've made this promise in several different quarters (aside
from this list) perhaps a note on the website itself to the effect that you
have to take time out due to large numbers of your families being affected
by the hurricane may help stop the emails on the topic.
I'm going to take this opportunity to pass on a suggestion that was made on
another list, donating to the red cross or other organisations participating
in the disaster relief is a good idea in the short term but don't forget
about the long term rebuilding of lives as well.
Once the essentials are taken care of and things like rebuilding houses has
been completed (or is at least well underway) we can help those who share
our hobby to get back to their normal life, a lot of our fellow costumers
will have lost fabric stashes built up over years, their wardrobe of
costumes, patterns, books, sewing machines and all those useful little
things you gradually accumulate over the years. Too often people forget
about a disaster once it moves off the front pages but perhaps we could
think long term. Go through your fabric stash (I'm sure most people on this
list have worked out they have more than they are ever likely to use even if
they stopped collecting today) Go through your library and work out if you
have 2 copies of a useful book, make a copy of your best patterns, Then find
a group in the affected area that shares your interests (presumably there
are several list members in the area you can ask them once they're back
online) and ask them if they would be interested in taking your
books/patterns/fabric etc. to share among members of their group. (original
credit for the germ of this idea must go to Stephen du Toit on the
Renaissance Tailor yahoogroup)
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wool Challis weave questions
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Yeah!  Thanks Kim.
Sg
kim baird wrote:

>I think part of the definition of challis is also that it's a print on a
>dark ground. Otherwise, you'd just have a lightweight wool twill.
>
>So if it's a solid color, it's not challis and you could use it.
>
>Kim
>  
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] beautifull reproduktions of silks and calicoes
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Here's an easy-to-use currency converter.  There are many others out there.

http://www.xe.com/ucc/

--Charlene

Julie Tamura wrote:
> OMIGOSH!  These are gorgeous...and the embroidered silk is to die for.
> Can someone more knowledgeable about European currency give me an idea of
> what it would cost per meter (I can handle meter, just not the Euro or ca or
> SEK.
> 
> All prices in SEK and includes VAT. 1? = ca. 9:30 SEK
> 
> Thanks
> Julie
> -----Original Message-----
> 
>    
> 
> Hi,
> I just wanted to share this wonderfull site with you. Prices are shameless 
> expensive, and i will never have that much money to spend on a costume.
> Duran also makes beautifull theater costumes. Dont miss to browse her 
> picture gallery of wonderfull 18th century hairstyles, hats and 
> costumes...........
> She is a member of the gustavian society.
> http://www.durantextiles.com/
> 
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

-- 
Jock:  A strapping young fellow who instinctively knows that his knack 
for teamwork and disdain for academics will someday catapult him into 
the corporate boardroom.  -- Bayan, Rick; The Cynic's Dictionary, 2002
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A long message but it helps me to take my mind off my worries...

Many thanks to everyone of you for your thoughts and prayers.  We really need all that we can get.  

Elizabeth, you made a really good suggestion about sharing the extra costume stashes.  Please tell Stephen I really like his idea.  My fifth son is going to the University of Mississippi (USM) at Hattiesburg, Mississippi next year. He wants to minor in acting. He started working in a Halloween costume shop last week to earn money to go to this college for the Fall 2006.  USM has a really nice new performing arts building. We heard tonight on all the cable news networks that USM took a very hard hit from the hurricane.  They also have a home economics education degree, and probably they would like extra stash too.  We don't know the extent of the damage at USM.  Several high schools on the Gulf Coast probably lost their wardrobes in the drama departments.  

Drama has really taken off on the Mississippi Gulf Coast because the casinos were bringing in the touring Broadway shows.  The casinos promised that they are rebuilding.  The Grand Casino was the first to go on TV and say that they were rebuilding in their casinos in Biloxi, Gulfport, and New Orleans.  

To bring this into a costuming topic... I have seen over the past 10 years some really nice paying costuming jobs at the Coast casinos advertised. A reporter on the news tonight asked why would anyone want to live in a place that gets so many hurricanes. <<<GRRRRR>> Maybe he should go to NOAA's website and see what state's receive the most hurricanes!  Then move everyone out of Florida and North/South Carolina too! They have a lot of hurricanes!  Albert Cat, get to packing... I am moving you!

I will show you all why the Gulf Coast is a great place to live.... I am just doing this for h-costume members. Below are the passwords to my online Library.  If you have trouble with the passwords, please don't write me. I have to go back to worrying after this message.  The passwords' security is very picky.  Hopefully things around here will improve by Friday or Saturday and I will have the passwords changed for the month and that will end the free access. You can login to the Library at www.costumegallery.com/research.htm or www.costumelibrary.com .  Just click on Subscriber Login button.

Library's passwords

Login: cg2003
Password: lilyoct5
Make sure to use as lower case letters, no space before, in-between, or behind the login characters.

I got my love for costumes as a child going to the Biloxi Beach and watching the Mardi Gras (MG) parades. As a teenager, I started going to New Orleans to see and photograph the costumes in their MG parades.  When you see on the news the Casinos... across the street was a Mardi Gras Costume and History Museum.  It was across the street from the Beau Rivage and the Hard Rock Casino (the one with the big red guitar).  On the news footage, where the museum was  now looks vacant.  In 1999, we did a videotaping of the museum costume collection to put on my website.  Besides the MG court costumes, the museum had a nice section for kids to put on MG court costumes. I don't think they were the kids' costumes that were actually used at MG court. On our free access site of The Gallery, www.onlinecostumeball.com you will see some of my kids in those costumes. I think they are in the 1999 online Ball.  I am afraid the Biloxi museum lost all their costumes.  I also did the videotaping at the Mardi Gras History Museum in Mobile. Now, we just need to purchase the software to put the videos online.

Susan, my asst. lives in Mobile   On one of my trips home to the Coast, Susan and I went to the Mardi Gras Museum in New Orleans' (N.O.) French Quarter for a photoshoot of their costume collection.  We have been for years wanting to do a history of MG costumes together.  Last MG/carnival season, I put the photos from the New Orleans' shoot online... now you need the Library passwords.  These photos are located at http://www.costumegallery.com/Library/MardiGras/NO/2003/ .  Take a good long look at the costumes... if the French Quarter in N.O. gets any more water in the next few days, these costumes may be under water.  This museum is located in the French Quarter near Bourbon Street. BTW, make sure to click on the small images for the enlargements of the costumes. 

During my visit to the Coast in last month, Susan and I had planned to go back to N.O. and Mobile for more photoshoots of the MG costumes.  Because a tropical storm, and another hurricane was coming in behind it on our planned days to do the photoshoots, we didn't go.  Instead my sister and I went to Pass Christian and did a photoshoot of the Antebellum homes on the beach.  I jumped out of the van and took the photos between the tropical storm's feeder bands.  Some of these home photos are in our Library at: http://www.costumegallery.com/Library/homes/PassChristian/page1.htm . HINT:  If using the browser IE to look at the extra-large photo, place your cursor on the lower right of the image page.  you will see a little box with arrows.  Click on it for a nice extra-large photo. I have about four or five more photo packs of these homes to put online. Most of these houses date from the Victorian era.  The hurricane news shows haven't been talking much about the town of Pass Christian because it was so heavily destroyed by this week's hurricane.  The press is saying that most of these homes are no longer exist.  The press has not been allowed into this area of the Coast because there will probably be a high body count from this coastal town.  This area of the Coast took the direct hit of the hurricane's eye wall of the  Monday.  Some of these homes also took a direct hit from Hurricane Camille in 1969 and survived.  You might see a newer home here or there on my website.  Those homes replaced the empty lots from where the homes stood and  Camille ate. We took a photo of almost every home on the Pass Christian scenic drive... I think it was seven or eight rolls of film.  By the time we got to the business district of Pass Christian, the street's tropical storms water was up to my knees.  (I am a die-hard reporter!)   These are probably the last photographs taken as a collection of these historic homes.  Once the town clears out the debris a little, I am going to burn CD copies of the photos and send them their historical society. The home owners might like current photos of their homes for insurance purposes.  BTW, Pass Christian hosted one of my favorite MG parades... very family friendly. 

My sister who has M.S. went on this shoot with me.  We had the best time, we have had in years.  We teased one another that this house or that was mine or hers and that the other one couldn't come visit us. Then we named family members who would be our servants.

During this same visit to the Coast, my future daughter-in-law and I did a photoshoot of the statues at the Old Biloxi Cemetery... it was in my mom's backyard.  She is a professional photographer.  I have been taking these types statue photos  for years.  I have about 20 packs of the statue photos to get online.  All these photoshoots over the years are for our series "Costume Heaven."  You can see the beginning of that series at: http://www.costumegallery.com/cemetery/ladies1.htm .  This is the first page called "Ladies of the Lawn."  Again, click on the small statue photo for an enlargement. 

You are probably wondering why I put photos of old homes and cemetery art on a costume website.  It seems to be a common interest among some costumers.  We like old houses and fancy art on graves.

Off to sleep for the first time since Saturday!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] beautifull reproduktions of silks and calicoes
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Julie,
"Ca" just means "about" (abbreviation of the Latin "circa").
 
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> jtknits@jtknits.cts.com 31/08/2005 03:28 >>>

OMIGOSH!  These are gorgeous...and the embroidered silk is to die for.
Can someone more knowledgeable about European currency give me an idea of
what it would cost per meter (I can handle meter, just not the Euro or ca or
SEK.

All prices in SEK and includes VAT. 1? = ca. 9:30 SEK

Thanks
Julie


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Oh  Penny, My prayers are to you and all of your family.  

 

Mia in Charlotte, NC

		
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Dear Penny,  As with everyone else on this list, my thoughts and prayers are with you and your family.  Having spent my entire life (all 70 years of it) in Florida, I do know what you are going through.  I was worried about my family in Miami until I finally heard from them and they only got Katrina as a baby hurricane.  I also have distant cousins (lots of them) in Mississippi, but they are in the upper part of the state and didn't get the horrible devastation the Gulf area did.

I do mean this - if there is ANYTHING I can do for you or your family please let me know off list.  This is not a time to be mouthing platitudes - this is a time for friends to rally around, and I consider you a friend even though I have never met you in person.

Again, my thoughts and prayers are with you.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 20:16:41 -0400
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Storm update
I  had  promised  last week that we would have a free access to
our  Library  at  the  beginning of this week. I am taking some
days off this week and have to cancel the free access. A lot of
people  have written asking about the Library access. After you
read  the following I think you will understand why I am taking
a few days off.
Several of you know that I am from the Mississippi Gulf Coast .
I  was  there  for  two  family  unions  in  July.  I  am  from
Biloxi/Ocean Springs area and my husband is from Gulfport. Both
of  us  have very large extended families there. They live from
Slidell, Louisiana to Mobile, Alabama. I have five siblings and
my  Mom, my husband have two siblings living on the Gulf Coast.
Several  of our family members have lost their homes, jobs, and
businesses  to  the  Hurricane. My husband's sister in Colorado
Springs, my sister in Tampa, and I have been frantically trying
to  locate  our  families. Monday morning was the last we heard
from  those family members that didn't evacuate. Now they don't
have  phone  are internet access. Even the ones who left on the
Coast,  their  cell  phones  are not working because their area
code is for the Gulf Coast.
My  husband's  brother  and  sister,  their  spouses,  and  six
children were in the same home, in North Gulfport. They were at
the  brother's home. The last time we spoke was Monday at 11:00
AM.  Their  electricity  was out and we were talking by cell 15
mins.  before the worse part of the hurricane. They didn't know
the  hurricane  eye  was  heading for them until we called. The
sister's  home, (my husband's family home since 1920) was about
five  blocks  from  the beach in Gulfport. We don't know if the
family  home  is  still  there, but from photos on TV, we don't
have  much hope. The home is near where you are seeing the news
film  where  the  Dole  banana  trailers for semi-trucks, Grand
Casino, and downtown Gulfport.
My  Aunt  lived  two streets from the beach in the same area of
Gulfport  and  we  are  sure  her  home  is gone... my aunt did
evacuate. We don't know where another eldery aunt
My  mother  evacuated  to  Hattiesburg,  Mississippi  to my 4th
brother  house.  We  talked  with them on the phone giving them
updates on the hurricane until 15 minutes before the eye of the
hurricane  hit. Today my sister got in touch with him. He could
only  talk  for  a  couple of minutes. They took some damage to
their house but can live in it. He is a fireman and went to the
city,  but  had to use a chainsaw to cut down trees on the road
to  get  to  the  city.  He  did  see  some  TV  footage at the
firehouse. My mother doesn't know how bad the Gulf Coast is and
that  she  probably doesn't have a house anymore. Her house was
near  the  Beau Riverage casino and the Lighthouse on the beach
in  Biloxi... near the apt. complex that 30 people died in. Mom
worked  for  my  business  and my 3rd brother. The apts. that I
mentioned  was on a street between Mom's house and my brother's
business.  We don't think he has a business or home anymore. We
heard  from  brother  #3  today.  He evacuated to Pensacola. He
lived in a condo on the beach in Pass Christian. That area took
the  eye  of the hurricane and it is so bad there that very few
reporters can get there.
Brother  #2  is  working  off  the coast of Africa for the past
month. He lives in Gautier, MS. His entire family (children and
grandchildren)  evacuated  to  Northern  Louisiana. We have not
idea  how their house faired. My brother is due to come in from
Africa  Wed.  or  Thurs.  night. We don't even know where he is
coming  into... we can't get threw to his families' cell phone.
Ironically he is the boss over several oil rigs in Africa.
My  1st  brother primary home and businesses in Mobile, Alabama
faired  well.  We  just  heard  from  heard  from  this brother
tonight.  He  has  generators  and  is  bringing  one to my 4th
brother's  home  in Hattiesburg. We believe my 1st brother lost
his new vacation home on Dauphin Island, Alabama.
We  haven't heard from my 2nd second and her daughter's family.
They  rode the storm out in northern Ocean Springs. This sister
has  MS and we are very worried about her. Because of the MS is
can't  take  the  95  degree  coastal  weather without a/c. Her
husband  works  on the oil rigs in the Gulf of Mexico. We don't
know  if  he  made  it  inland before the hurricane hit or not.
Normally  they come in the mouth of the Mississippi River which
was hit first by the hurricane. My niece and her husband worked
at  the  Grand  Casino  in  Biloxi, and are now unemployed. The
hurricane pushed this casino across the highway.
My  husband's family in Pearl River and Slidell, Louisiana have
lost  their homes to the floods. They had evacuated to northern
Louisiana. We have heard from them.
For  our  subscribers,  you saw my photos in the Library of the
huge  historic antebellum homes on the beach in Pass Christian.
I took those photos in July, ironically again during a tropical
storm.  I just saw news footage of that area and all those home
are  gone.  Some of those homes had been there since the 1830s.
Another  irony,  this  town  is named after one of my husband's
great-grandfathers  who discovered the pass between the islands
and  the Gulf Coast. His name was Christian Ladnier and was one
of  the  founding  families of the area between New Orleans and
Mobile. That's why we have so many family members in this area.
My  husband  has so many cousins in this area and we just don't
know where they are now.
It  is  so  heartbreaking  to  see an area that we grew up into
adulthood  so torn apart. We don't know what our family members
are  going  to  do for homes or income. All the businesses have
been destroyed.
We  are  just  some of the thousands who are trying to find our
families  on the Gulf Coast. If you want to help, send money to
the American Red Cross or the Salvation Army. Write in the memo
section Hurricane Katrina and the organizations promised to use
the monies for that cause. These charities are sending in teams
to feed the Coastal residents. Please keep all the Gulf Coastal
residents and their families in your prayers.
I  am  sorry  if  there  are spelling or grammar errors in this
message.  I  just don't have the heart to read over what I just
wrote. I have cried so much, my head hurts.
Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century /ot
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Bjarne,
If you were to keep your clay pipe in a small wooden box, padded, would 
that help prevent breaking?

liz young

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Dear Ann,
> Thanks for this, i could have googled myself, but i hoped that somebody 
> knew about this.
> Well then i could smoke a cigar then, when i get desperate.
> Two expensive for me with all those ruined pipes.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2005 9:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century /ot
> 
> 
>>
>> In a message dated 8/30/2005 3:24:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>>
>> In the  book, there is a lady who in private smokes cigarillos, and i 
>> just
>> wondered, did cigarillos (imported from Spain) really excist?
>> I always  have a problem when i smoke, because my clay pipe breaks 
>> during my
>> travellings and they are very fragile.
>> If this was true about  cigarillos, perhaps i could use this in stead?
>>
>>
>>
>> It was my understanding that cigars/cigarillos were developed in the very
>> late 18th or early 19th century, but I haven't seen exact documentation.
>>
>> Just did a Google!, and cigars seem to have first been made in Spain 
>> in the
>> early 18th century, and spread from there after the Peninsular Wars
>> (1808-1814).  So it seems possible, but not likely, that the woman was 
>> smoking them.
>>
>> Ann Wass


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In a message dated 8/30/2005 4:32:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

> Well then i could smoke a cigar then, when i get desperate.
> Two expensive for me with all those ruined pipes.
> 
> 

There's always snuff...achooo!
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Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 12:18:20 -0400
From: "RON CARNEGIE" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century /ot
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If you use snuff properly you should sneeze.

   Cases for pipes are and were used ion the 18th century.  Some are 
rectanglar and hold tobacco as well, but many are shaped like the pipe 
itself and worked in wood, silver, brass, tin, or iron.  We also have at 
least one 18th century Iron pipe in our collection at work.

   Of courtse snuff was considered far more gentile than pipes.  It requires 
also a number of costume accesories.  The box of course, or a mull.  And the 
handkerchef, which is meant for dusty ones upper lip.

Ron Carnegie
long time snuff user and pipe smoker

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about smoking in 18th century /ot


> In a message dated 8/30/2005 4:32:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
>> Well then i could smoke a cigar then, when i get desperate.
>> Two expensive for me with all those ruined pipes.
>>
>>
>
> There's always snuff...achooo!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:storm prayers
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Penny, 

I love the idea of helping with rebuilding stashes and such.  May I send some as well?


> 
> Oh  Penny, My prayers are to you and all of your family.  
> 
>  
> 
> Mia in Charlotte, NC
> 
> 		
> ---------------------------------
>  Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
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I agree, but I think we should wait a month or so until these
communities get back on their feet and have places to live, let alone
start a stash of fabric and such.

Penny, I hope you hear from all your family very soon and that they
are all well. Our check
to the Red Cross has already been sent and PLEASE let your friends on
h-costume know what we can do for you and your community.

My brother-in-law, his wife and their brand new baby got out of Biloxi
Sunday morning and stayed about 300 miles away. He too works at the
Grand Casino; he's the lead male singer in the show. The company has
kindly let all the show people out of their contracts so that they can
collect unemployment for the months that it will take to repair the
casino, and without prejudice so that they can reapply for contracts
elsewhere or at a later date. I think that's wonderful for a large
company to think of their employees this well. I hope they have
treated all their employees the same way. My B-i-L is going to try
today to get back into their flooded apartment, blessedly still in one
piece, and see if there's anything to salvage. Then they're coming
home to California. This was the second time he'd had to evacuate in
the three months they'd been there, and it's just too much for them.
They hadn't been there long enough to grow to love it although they
really liked living in Biloxi.

Your family is in my thoughts,
LynnD

On 8/31/05, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
<elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net> wrote:
> Penny,
> 
> I love the idea of helping with rebuilding stashes and such.  May I send some as well?
> 
> 
> >
> > Oh  Penny, My prayers are to you and all of your family.
> >
> >
> >
> > Mia in Charlotte, NC
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------

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Penny,
 
Anything you need, let me know. I have several people I can call on to help.
 
Jodi
faerieglenstudios@yahoo.com

		
---------------------------------
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>Now, about that top point. Don't try to do it on the machine! Yes, it can
>be done, but it requires a lot of finagling and can cause a lot of
>frustration. Consider that the people who used this construction were
>working by hand -- this was never designed to be done by machine. It's
>much, much simpler by hand. If you do it by machine, you need to do a lot
>of marking of seam allowances and turning points and so forth.  All very
>exact -- too much like machine quilting for my taste ;-)

Everyone has a technique or 2 that they dont like or havent yet
mastered.  Perhaps Robin & others is missing out on a very nifty trick
that will make this a tad easier. If setting a gore (godet) by machine
is good enough for the couture industry, it's good enough for me.
Here's how it's done. First we'll practice on a scrap:

1. Fetch 2 scraps of fabric, say 1 sq foot each.  One, the garment
piece, will be slashed and have the gore inserted. The other will be
the gore.

1b. Prep the gore section. Typically, for us early period types up
thru the 19th c, the gore is symmetrical and not on the straight
grain, cross grain or true bias. It may have a seamline down the
middle. If so, finish it now. Your gore should be several inches
longer than the slash as measured down the center line.
When using the true bias, the gore is at it's stretchiest. If you can
master the technique this way, then every other gore should be easier.
* Chalk 1/2" seamlines at the top of gore. They should cross at the
top center. This is the apex of the gore.

2. On the garment piece, draw a chalk line right down the middle. The
X marks the top of gore's seamline:
________________
!
!
!
!
!__________x
!
!
!
!________________

2. Stay stitch (check machine tension, ensure no pulling) 1/4" on
either side of chalk line. When arriving at the point angle the
stitching line gently toward the X. At the X, lift the foot, pivot
your sample, and mirror-image stitch along the other side. DO NOT CUT
the thread!  That's possibly the most important part of this
technique. There must be a continuous thread up, around & down the
point.

!
!
!_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_\x
! - - - - - - - - - - -/
!

3. Slashing. Cut along chalk line, or, if you wiggled while stitching,
cut between the stitch lines. Cut all the way to the X, but DO NOT CUT
the thread. It's called slashing, but dont get too aggressive. If you
twist, tug or pull you'll distort the results.

4. You'll need a powerful bit of imagination for this next bit. We'll
be working right sides together, with the gore on the bottom, garment
piece on top. Spread the slashed, garment piece so that the top of the
slash aligns with the chalked seamlines of the gore. The top of slash
threadlines goes exactly overtop the crossed chalked seamlines of the
gore. Obvious the amount of seam allowance varies greatly on these 2
pieces. Believe me when I say the thread line goes exactly overtop the
chalked seamlines.
* slowly *baste* the last 2 inches toward the point;
* at the X, put the machine needle down, pivot your work;
* align the threadline with the chalk line on this side, and stitch a few inches
Peek at the apex of the gore.  Look good & smooth?  finish stitching
the seam. Look messy? pick out your stitches & try again.

Assuming you've got the machine cleaned, a fresh needle, tension
balanced, needle & thread correctly selected for the weight of the
fabric and all the other basics under control, this should do you
well.

Cant understand w/o a picture?  I love Claire Schaffer's books. Look
up godets, gusset and/or "stitching a seam with an inward corner".

Think you got it?  How to cheat this technique: Stitch only the top 2"
of the slashed section. After the gore is set into the slash, remove
the stay stitching.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Penny, I can't imagine what you are going through. Disaster has danced
near my family, but never landed as hard as it has on your own folk. My
thoughts are with you at this terrible time.

I am also very, very proud of you. Why? Your photos and films may be the
only ones taken of things now forever lost. Without your efforts, even
the memory of them would soon fade. It may seem a small thing now, but
if not for you, there might well be nothing at all left. I hope you can
take some comfort in that during this dark time.

{{{HUGS}}}

Take care of what you can. Ask for help on the rest. Aid will be there.

Kate McClure
If that light at the end of the tunnel is a train, maybe I can catch a
ride!

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>>>>After all, they made bustle gowns out of kimonos,   y'know.
>>> I'm sure you meant kimono fabric.  There's hardly enough  material in one
>>> kimono to make a 2005 dress, let alone anything more  voluminous.
>> Nope. I meant Kimonos...picked apart and re sewn. There's an example of
>> this very thing in the Kyoto book....page 291 in the big 1 volume  book.
>And anyway, there's about just enough fabric on a roll of kimono fabric to
>make one kimono, so it doesn't make a big difference (except having to deal
>with seams).

And the pattern is specifically designed so that the center back seam
will have the L & R halves of a design. Frequently the design
continues on the front panels.  The collar & sleeves might also be
incorp'd into the all-over design. The skill of the kimono designer is
in dyeing "yardage" with the all-over design firmly in mind.
Careful cutting on the part of the western costumer can make fabulous
use of these larger designs. A quick stroll thru the kimono dept of
Takashimaya will convince you. You buy the 14m length and they tailor
it for you.

When I lived in Tokyo I spent many a weekend day seeking out fabric
shops for japanese silk fabrics. Scarce as hen's teeth!  The yardage
shops sell silks in minuscule amounts for doll makers. They are
unprepared for 6 meter buys.  Heck, I couldnt even find a roll of silk
brocade in a Japanese design with that much on it!
Good thing there's flea markets at temples & shrines all over town.

There are several styles of kimono, and in the 1880s were even more. 
Other kimono facts:
The garment someone attributed to geisha that has long sleeves is not
for geisha, it's for Maiko (pretty child) an apprentice geisha.  There
is a modern kimono variant, called furosode (wave sleeve) worn by
unmarried ladies to festivals like Shichi-Go-San or New Years, in
spring to Sakura parties (cherry blossom) and in summer to the Hana-bi
(fire-flowers) fireworks displays. Supposedly the sleeves are so
beautiful that one need but wave the sleeve to catch a man.

The wedding kimono style is Uchikake, longer wider & with longer
furosode style sleeves.  Mine is embroidered with several Phoenix. The
shinto wedding kimono is pure white (shiromoku = pure white).

I have a regency style jacket that I made from an obi.  Doesnt take
much!  A maru style obi runs roughly 5 yds and 24" wide (folded
longways). Other obi styles are smaller or have less of the fancy
pattern.

Someone mentioned menswear as a yardage source. The kamishimo is sadly
out of fashion, as are the samurai who wore them with hakama & men's
kimono. Never saw one at the flea markets. (Yes, I was looking every
weekend.)

Western 1880s fashions appeared frequently in Tokyo on Japanese
ladies.  Happily, the fashion was for coordinating fabrics.  I have
several hand colored 1860-1880 Japanese woodcuts illustrating this.

Kayta, you're welcome to come paw thru my kimonos, obi & japanese
costume books & museum catalogs. Others are welcome, too. You've got
my email address.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 16:56:33 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: Gores
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On Wed, 31 Aug 2005, Cin wrote:

> >Now, about that top point. Don't try to do it on the machine! Yes, it can
> >be done, but it requires a lot of finagling and can cause a lot of
> >frustration. Consider that the people who used this construction were
> >working by hand -- this was never designed to be done by machine. It's
> >much, much simpler by hand. If you do it by machine, you need to do a lot
> >of marking of seam allowances and turning points and so forth.  All very
> >exact -- too much like machine quilting for my taste ;-)
> 
> Everyone has a technique or 2 that they dont like or havent yet
> mastered.  Perhaps Robin & others is missing out on a very nifty trick
> that will make this a tad easier. If setting a gore (godet) by machine
> is good enough for the couture industry, it's good enough for me.

Let me rephrase what I said, then, since I see that the idea of "easier"
came through much more strongly in the paragraph quoted than the overall
point I was trying to make in my post.

Setting a gore by machine is quite a good choice if you are doing (modern)
couture work and/or want a (modern) couture effect. Once you're mastered
the technique (very well described in Cin's post) it is easy enough to do.

However: The original poster was trying to make a 13th century garment.
The best way to get a 13th c. effect is to use 13th c. techniques. If you
use a modern machine technique to set your gore, you'll get a modern
(pointy) gore, which appears *not* to be something that is found in
medieval clothing. The best way to achieve the medieval-looking gore is to
use the medieval method, which is hand-sewing.

As you said, with practice, you can certainly get nice, clean, perfect
(modern) gores on machine. But for the original poster, who has not
already learned that technique and is starting from ground up, I would
still advise putting the time and effort into learning a technique that is
more likely to be period rather than learning a modern one. If she doesn't
already know the machine technique, it would indeed be fiddly and require
lots of marking and turning and such; learning and perfecting this
technique will be useful only if she wants the effect it can give.

The usual disclaimers apply: This is what works for me, and for my
approach. I realize I do a lot of things differently from others on this
list, because my purposes are different. (I also have pretty much
abandoned using modern measuring systems, anything requiring computation
on paper, and anything resembling pattern drafting.) Someone whose aim is
to get a reasonable-looking garment for event wear using the techniques
they're already familiar with, or who is making other compromises (e.g. in
materials or layering) for practical or budgetary purposes, will find
different approaches that suit their needs. This is just fine, as far as
I'm concerned. I hope that readers here understand that I will tend to
answer questions about medieval clothing in terms of medieval techniques
and medieval effects; modern adaptations are then up to the judgment and
choice of the individual.

--Robin



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From: Marie Stewart <maricelt@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: Gores
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Status: RO

I hand sew everything... and my gores are razor sharp. All it ever takes is 
practice. As for no gores in the 13th century being sharp... Just how many 
extant garments do we have to make that assumption on? I would personally 
think that gores varied ... some pointy, some not. 

YMMV, 
Bridgette

However: The original poster was trying to make a 13th century garment.
> The best way to get a 13th c. effect is to use 13th c. techniques. If you
> use a modern machine technique to set your gore, you'll get a modern
> (pointy) gore, which appears *not* to be something that is found in
> medieval clothing. The best way to achieve the medieval-looking gore is to
> use the medieval method, which is hand-sewing.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] Japanese wedding kimono (was: Question Sari fabric and
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At 01:51 PM 8/31/2005, you wrote:
>The
>shinto wedding kimono is pure white (shiromoku = pure white).


When did Japanese wedding gowns become pure white? Or is it Shinto only? My 
mom was Buddhist, not Shinto.

My mother's wedding kimono is dark, almost black IIRC, both in her wedding 
photos and what I remember when she wore it when I was a child for a 
fashion show on wedding gowns. I have yet to go through all her kimono 
stash in her house (I just found a pretty one for her funeral near the 
top), but I will this fall as I inventory everything. She had two large 
metal chests holding everything.

Kimiko


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I don't see any recent posts, so I wanted to tell everyone who read Penny's
long email yesterday that at 6 pm ABC News did a short piece on the town
named for her ancestor, Pass Christian. Penny said that no one had been able
to get to it and that it wasn't the sort of place that was shown on
television. According to the reporter, Pass Christian was directly in the
path of the storm and there is nothing left of it. This is such a horrible
tragedy for our country, I can't even imagine how many people have no homes
anymore.

Gail Finke


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On Wed, 31 Aug 2005, Marie Stewart wrote:

> I hand sew everything... and my gores are razor sharp. All it ever
> takes is practice. As for no gores in the 13th century being sharp...
> Just how many extant garments do we have to make that assumption on? I
> would personally think that gores varied ... some pointy, some not.

I'd expect they varied, too, and I'd expect sewing methods in general
varied from place to place, period to period, and person to person. I
didn't say "no gores in the 13th century are sharp." I said it's a mistake
to assume, from the evidence we have, that sharpness of gores was
considered an important workmanship issue, or that medieval methods would,
if properly done, necessarily produce sharp gores. I have no doubt that
medieval people could have made their gores as pointy as they wanted --
they were very skilled, and their adeptness is evident in other aspects of
these garments -- but I haven't seen evidence that they had any motivation
to do this.

My point is this:  I hear a lot of people saying (or simply assuming) that
gores are *supposed* to be perfectly flat and pointy. People routinely
give advice on costuming lists on how to achieve this; they put up
instruction pages on websites; they teach it in classes. Yet the
best-known, most often referenced extant garments we have *don't* have
flat, pointy gore tops -- an alternative I rarely see mentioned, much less
taught. When I do slide lectures on the Herjolfsnes garments, I frequently
point out the flat-topped gores, and from the reactions of the audiences,
you'd think I'd just given them papal dispensation -- they never realized
it was documentable to have non-pointy gores, hallelujah!

Sure, maybe some medieval people made pointy gores. But we have absolutely
no reason to think that flat, sharp gore points were valued, and what
little data we have seems to suggest otherwise. Sure, it's fine to teach
methods that produce flat, sharp points because they get the job done --
but I typically hear the "razor-sharp gore point" presented as a quality
of accurate or well-made garb, and there's no justification to think
that's the case. I wouldn't be surprised, for instance, to find out that
some judges at SCA costume competitions would grade people down for gores
with rounded tops or slight pleats, under the assumption that it's bad
workmanship. That would, however, be a modern assumption, one that I
suspect comes from people being taught to value making sharp clean angles
in couture sewing, modern quilt-top piecing, etc. I've seen people teach
other modern methods because they learned that "this is good sewing
technique" without realizing that the garments *of the period they're
teaching* show no evidence of those methods (e.g. gathered sleeve caps,
French seam finishing, stay-stitching, facings, pattern matching -- and
other techniques that were valued in some periods but not in others).

In this instance, and in many others, ISTM that if you approach the
construction of a garment using the materials and techniques available to
the person of the period you're reconstructing and consistent with the
known evidence, you're likely to come to different conclusions about what
makes sense and what works well than you would if you use modern
techniques and materials. And sometimes when we don't understand why
period evidence shows us something (either in art or artifact), trying it
using medieval methods may give us a clue that we wouldn't recognize if we
used modern ones.

On that line, I've been thinking about the small pleat in the top of the
St. Louis shirt gore. There's no question that the shirt is well-made by a
person highly skilled at sewing, so I would assume the pleat is
intentional. I wonder if that slight pleating would make the gore wear
better and work better, because it would allow you to spread the body of
the shirt a little wider before encountering resistance at the stress
point. If the gore is perfectly flat, you can't open the angle of the
slash quite as far (unless you make the bottom of the gore correspondingly
wider).  With a flat gore, if you need to allow for a sizable amount
expansion over a short vertical distance from waist to hip, you need to
make a fairly wide angle, which commits you to a certain degree of width
at the bottom. Making the top of the gore a little flatter and wider, and
taking up that excess width in a small pleat, lets you get the sides of
the finished gore further apart in those top few inches without as much
stress, and without requiring more width at the bottom.

Something else to try in an experiment...

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] enough yardage for men's liene?
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Status: RO

I've got 3 yards of 50" wide yellow linen that I'd like to make into a
liene for my husband. He's 6'3", 240 lbs - is there any way I can
squeeze a reasonably long (knee length) liente for him out of only 3
yards (any time period)?

I'm aware of the Reconstructing History pattern but I don't want to
get it if I don't have enough fabric.

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Gores
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Status: RO

I agree with Robin on the duplicating period techniques (or getting as close 
as possible) is usually the best way to duplicate a period result.  Modern 
techniques are usually the result of technological process  evolution, and 
may come up with a result that is often easier to learn, or looks "better", 
but may not look correct to the trained eye.

That being said, my hand sewn gores suck (ok, *I* think they suck).  I 
prefer the pointy gores because it's my personal opinion (based on ZERO 
objective or statistical evidence) that they were more common.  And I'll 
keep doing them that way until I get them right :)   My major problem is 
getting some sort of seam allowance on the body piece, but not the gore.  
What this means is that I either wind up with a stress gap at the point, or 
compression wrinkles (both of which I expect are prefectly period, but are 
ideally wrong).

The most successful garment I've done with this, I rolled the edge of the 
seam up to the point before inserting the gore, and then whip stitching the 
seam - which I'm pretty sure is not period for this garment.

Any suggestions?

Marc


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] enough yardage for men's liene?
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At 05:45 PM 8/31/2005, you wrote:
>I've got 3 yards of 50" wide yellow linen that I'd like to make into a
>liene for my husband. He's 6'3", 240 lbs - is there any way I can
>squeeze a reasonably long (knee length) liente for him out of only 3
>yards (any time period)?
>
>I'm aware of the Reconstructing History pattern but I don't want to
>get it if I don't have enough fabric.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Allison T.


Hi Allison,

Yes, sorta, if you made more of a long shirt with regular sleeves, than an 
Irish leine. I was able to make a shift out of 2 yards of 60" wide linen 
that went to my knees, and I am 5"6" and a plus size. It is based on 
rectangles with triangular side gores. Here's my dress diary on the Tudor 
shift I made. It has a basic layout diagram that may help you:
http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/TudorShift/index.html
This is a link to info on men's historical shirts, which may also help you
http://home.earthlink.net/%7Emagdlena/shirt/shirt.html

Leine's... well there are many definitions and ways to make them, 
historical (which can vary depending on woodcuts/images they are based on), 
Ren-faire style (long hanging sleeves gathered on a cord), or otherwise. I 
made a leine from 10 modern yards of linen for a friend, but it went into 
the skirting (pleats upon pleats), instead of the sleeves which were very 
modest.
http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/irishbard/index.html

Kass' site on Reconstructing History should give you good info on 
historical leine's in general, along with the patterns you mentioned.

hth, I just hope I didn't confuse more than help.

Kimiko


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> That being said, my hand sewn gores suck (ok, *I* think they suck).  I
> prefer the pointy gores because it's my personal opinion (based on ZERO
> objective or statistical evidence) that they were more common.  And I'll
> keep doing them that way until I get them right :)   My major problem is
> getting some sort of seam allowance on the body piece, but not the gore.
> What this means is that I either wind up with a stress gap at the point,
or
> compression wrinkles (both of which I expect are prefectly period, but are
> ideally wrong).

One way I'd try, which may or may not have been used, would be to press the
seam allowance under for the godet and ladder stitch the point in first.
That way you don't run out of seam allowance for the body part, and if the
point was pressed afer clipping the godet seam allowance on the inside you
could get a neat sharp point. The only thing is the eam allowance for body
and godet would be in the same direction: pointing inwards. No idea if there
is any evidence of this.

I know I've used ladder stitch several times for my historical garb.

michaela de bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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Suggestions? hmmm....
If I were enamored of the pointy points, and having trouble getting 
them, I'd most likely treat the last couple of inches (either side of 
the gore top) almost as an applique on top of the main piece of fabric 
(combining the regular seam allowance idea with a technique from 
quilting/applique).  The slashed opening would end a few inches down, 
and the gore/insert would continue, but laying on top of the main piece, 
with its seam allowances tucked under.  And I'd do a type of blind 
stitch through the folded edge of the gore, down through the main piece, 
and back up, and through again.  It looks like a running stitch on the 
"wrong" side of the fabric, and if done right, doesn't even show on the 
top ("right") side.  I'm not explaining this very well in words, but 
unfortunately, my ascii art is even worse than my verbiage. <rueful grin>
If this is completely confusing, Marc, I'd be glad to send you a couple 
of examples from one of my quilting sources, off-list (I could maybe 
scan them at work, or else photocopy them and snailmail them to you.). 
I don't know, off-hand, of many quilting/piecing/applique sources 
online, although I'm sure there are some...
--Sue

Marc Carlson wrote:
> I agree with Robin on the duplicating period techniques (or getting as 
> close as possible) is usually the best way to duplicate a period 
> result.  Modern techniques are usually the result of technological 
> process  evolution, and may come up with a result that is often easier 
> to learn, or looks "better", but may not look correct to the trained eye.
> 
> That being said, my hand sewn gores suck (ok, *I* think they suck).  I 
> prefer the pointy gores because it's my personal opinion (based on ZERO 
> objective or statistical evidence) that they were more common.  And I'll 
> keep doing them that way until I get them right :)   My major problem is 
> getting some sort of seam allowance on the body piece, but not the 
> gore.  What this means is that I either wind up with a stress gap at the 
> point, or compression wrinkles (both of which I expect are prefectly 
> period, but are ideally wrong).
> 
> The most successful garment I've done with this, I rolled the edge of 
> the seam up to the point before inserting the gore, and then whip 
> stitching the seam - which I'm pretty sure is not period for this garment.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Marc

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