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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?
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And what is Irn Bru?

Bright orange Scottish 'fruit' flavoured fizzy drink, 'made in Scotland from 
girders'.

http://www.irn-bru.co.uk/

Debs
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From: lisa <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress forms
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> To the person who was enquiring about dressforms...

Someone may already have posted this but the latest issue of Threads 
magazine has a whole section on different brands of dress forms and their 
characteristics.

--lisa
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric question SOT
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>I am looking for a light weight material to make a banner.
> I have been recommended Silk Noil as a possible fabric.
> How sturdy is silk noil

Not very. If you're going to use noil, you might as well use 100% cotton.
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Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 23:14:56 +0000 (GMT)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] gifts for Brits - tablet and Irn Bru: quite firmly OT!
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>Rhonda mentioned tablet - we don't even have that in
England. I 
>discovered it when I went to the Orkney Islands in
2003; the >hotel gave us a square of it with our
after-dinner coffee >onstead of a mint. (It's a 
>hard fudge made in blocks which can be broken into
squares like >a chocolate bar.)

As a Scot and therefore long-time sugar addict, I feel
qualified to comment on this - for a change!

My dad makes awesome 'tablet' and it is a similar
mixture to fudge but it has a more crystalline
structure so yes, it is breakable similar to chocolate
and not squidgy, like fudge, but the /best/ tablet has
a melt in the mouth butteriness that is rarely found
in commercially produced stuff. The closest you'll get
are the little 'heart-attacks in a packet' called
"Orkney Fudge" 
http://www.realfooddirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1013

"Irn Bru" is a soda/fizzy soft drink that is orange in
colour and of indeterminate flavour. The advert used
to say "Made in Scotland, from girders" i.e. iron
bars, so I'd say it's sort of metallic... but nice!
You can now get Irn Bru chews which are bliss and make
my teeth ache.
http://www.sweetsncandy.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=IRNBRU060&cat=15

Diabetes? Me??? :-)

Sorry for digression but I've a childhood affection
for both.

Katherine

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost list errors?
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 19:26:58 -0500
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I don't know if anybody else has written, but the list has been its usual 
active self, so if you still aren't receiving it there might be a problem at 
your end.

Good luck!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angela F Lazear" <angelalazear@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] H-Cost list errors?


I have not received mail from the list for several days now, and wanted to 
be sure that nothing had changed in my subscription.  I could resub if it's 
necessary, but wanted to check first to see what's up.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare
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Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 16:29:49 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT -- tablet
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At 02:56 PM 1/31/2006, you wrote:

>>Tablet is a pure sugar rush - My Mom
>>used to make it when we were kids and we called it fried fudge.  Had no
>>idea it was called butter tablet elsewhere.
>
>I am very intrigued by this. Google is my friend:
>http://www3.sympatico.ca/scruss/tablet.html
>
>clear, step by step directions. Doesn't seem difficult, but it does 
>sound tasty.
>
>I've tried, but I can't think if a single way to make this costume related!
>Denise

You need an apron =-O!


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 18:35:41 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: david webb <alderweb@vaxxine.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bodleian Corset Images, Trade Cards
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Status: RO

I just realized that my bookmarks aren't working  for this site either. 
It's not the most friendly, intuitive site, but not too hostile either.

Bodacious Basic Bodliean url: http://www.rsl.ox.ac.uk/

Click on "Online Catalogue and electronic resources" link  (on left) 
to  get to:
http://www.bodley.ox.ac.uk/elec-res.html

Click on "John Johnson Collection" to get to:
http://www.bodley.ox.ac.uk/elec-res.html

The top of this next page will say:

The John Johnson Collection of Printed Ephemera
COPYRIGHT INFORMATION


Then you have to scroll to the very bottom of that page,

I understand that copyright in the images belongs to The Bodleian Library, 
Oxford, and I accept the conditions explained above for access to the images.

Click on the blue highlighted "I accept the conditions" (the  copyright 
conditions - nothing too onerous since they allow "use for private study", 
the angels.

Click on "Catalogue" on the red window on the left-hand side to search. 
There is also and "Exhibition" button which is an online exhibition of some 
of the collection, broken down by various themes. I think I mostly used 
Index "5-Subjects, Trades, Products" to search in, using stays or corsets 
to search in.

Have fun exploring. I'm leaving  for a conference tomorrow so I won't be 
back until the weekend. I hope that these instructions more helpful.

Sheridan



At 11:24 PM 1/30/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>David? Sheridan?
>
>I would LOVE to see the images you're talking about, but I can't figure out
>how to use the system.  Could you be a little more specific?  Thank you!
>
>Martha
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Paying for color copies: was 16th Century "Nationality"
	Dress	Characteristics...long
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> Just out of curiousity, how much did the color copy cost?  Always
> looking for cool color pictures -- especially of embroidery!

I have paid up to $100 for a color reprint.  That was of a painting not 
currently on exhibit (in America) , and supposedly the museum did not 
have a color copy (which I think was probably BS).  I have paid £10 for 
a black and white reprint, and the least I have paid is for a color 
transparency is  £35.  The latter was a rental and is like a large 
slide.  Shipping and handling is extra and is about £6 in each of those 
cases.  I was allowed to make a copy for the purposes of the slide show.

The biggest hindrance is having a "legitimate" reason for wanting one.  
Fortunately I was in graduate school this past year doing research so I 
didn't have to fib about that, and since I was doing a presentation at 
the Phoenix Art Museum, they seemed to accept that.  But I had to 
explain all that.  I wouldn't let it inhibit you...all they can say is 
no. Surprisingly enough, if you can find a postcard of the painting 
those scan very well,  (I think the detail on a least one I got was 
better than some of the detail on the transparencies I have received.) 
and I have had some places send those to me gratis...they even paid 
postage!  I asked for a more detailed, higher resolution for a painting 
on IMAREAL and they sent that to me, no questions asked, on a CD!

Good point about Anguissola....that would be a good comparison to see if 
I could find a match..  I have responded to the list since I had 
multiple inquiries about the same thing....

Sg

>
>>

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Subject: [h-cost] What to do with old clothes
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Better than donations to charity, more value-add than quilting from
clothing scraps, launch your suit into orbit! This fabulous news from
spaceweather.com

SUITSAT:  On February 3rd, astronauts plan to hurl an old spacesuit
overboard from the International Space Station.  The disembodied suit,
nicknamed "SuitSat," will proceed to circle Earth, transmitting a
radio message which anyone can hear using a police scanner or a ham
radio tuned to 145.990 MHz FM.  This strange experiment is a test of a
sensible idea--that old spacesuits might be transformed into useful
satellites.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Danish Noble extant wardrobe inventories
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Tania, you might want to ask Bjarne...he'd probably know.
Sg
Tania Gruning wrote:

>    Hiya all.
>   
>  I am wondering if anyone know of any danish noble/royal inventories that are intact? We have had some major royal castle burnings, but could be they were stored elsewhere. I am especially looking for the 16'th century.
>   
>  Tania
>
>
>			
>---------------------------------
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 22:17:34 -0800
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On Jan 31, 2006, at 5:21 AM, Joan Jurancich wrote:

> At 04:44 AM 1/31/2006, you wrote:
>> I've seen the word "Exant". What does this mean in costume terms?
>> [snip]
>
> It just means that the inventory of the wardrobe still exists.  We  
> don't have very many extant (i.e., surviving) clothing pieces.

It depends on what you mean by "very many".  Compared to how many  
were made and worn--no.  Compared to how many people _think_ are  
still extant -- you might be surprised.  (I know I have been.)

Heather

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Status: RO

Okay, this is overwhelming!

So, basically, there are two "easy" patterns out there:  JP Ryan and
Butterick.

And from all the discussion, it looks like there are a variety of
preferences for the boning:

- cable ties
- reed
- metal
- plastic (but it sounds like this is not the ideal option, since plastic is
sweaty no matter where you live).

Well, I guess as I work on finishing the current garment, I'll start
planning for the corset... at least the first one.  At this point, I suppose
I'm just making a costume, but as I continue and learn, I'll be able
to construct things a little more authentically.

Our winter in Eastern PA has been fairly mild... it actually hit the 60's
this week!

Kristin

On 1/31/06, Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Mia,
>
> The petticoat is cotton, but with a nice sateen to it. I thought it would
> at least imitate the look of silk to a certain extent.
>
> I'd really like to have a more authentic pair of stays before starting a
> second outfit. I've been thinking about trying to draft my own pattern -
> but haven't been really sure where to start. The other question, is
> whether
> to use the plastic boning, or go the metal route... and then which type...
> and how does one get the right sizes? Tin-snips? I've already purchased a
> yard of duck-cloth, and a couple of yards of cotton twill in white and
> red.
>
> I'm just doing this to do it. I suppose I could use it for halloween next
> year... although a couple people have suggested using it as a wedding
> dress. I made my own dress for my first marriage, so I've been trying to
> avoid thinking about the possibility of making another one... although I
> do
> have about 10 yards of some gorgeous white cotton damask. Hmmm... a
> sacque? I suppose, once I get more comfortable making several items, I may
> risk making something out of silk... but until then, I'll stick with
> what's
> affordable.
>
> Kristin
>
>
> Oh stays..., I've done several, but since I'm an active reenactor, and
> trying to progress to a more authentic reenactor, my solutions, might not be
> your solutions.
> Like I said, the butterick pattern seems to be good, especially for 3rd
> quarter or so 18th c. Making 18c stays is not as hard as one might
> think.  just somewhat time consuming.  And I always have challenges with the
> fit. For the stays I've done I've,
> 1.  used the J.P Ryan patterns (very nice- and gives that good ice cream
> cone shape.)  I used metal and cable ties and that stringy box binding stuff
> that is almost like whale bone...this is not a good description, but I
> really don't know how to do better.  These were really nice.
> 2.  used the later 18c pattern from Hunnicut,  and blew it up on a copy
> machine.  these were nice too.  I used basket cane and metal bones at the
> stress points.  These were nice too
> 3.  Back to JP Ryan for the pattern, bound in leather, wool covered, fully
> boned, cable ties and metal in stress points, cane everywhere else.  They
> are really beautiful.
> 3.  on the table to do now.  the butterick pattern, cut out in linen, will
> be halfboned with ?
>
> All done on the machine
>
> For me basket caning works, but i am frequently out in the heat of a North
> Carolina Summer.  Anything Plastic just doesn't breathe enough for me.  I've
> never had a piece of cane break.  and boy does it support!!
>
> Choice of patterns ...JP Ryan is good, the butterick is good.  I don't
> have the skills to draft one from scratch and have it come out looking like
> I want it to.
>
> Again all these choices are based on where you are wearing it, and what
> you want it for.  Costume and just for fun has different needs than
> reenactor and museum work.
>
> 18c Mia in Charlotte, NC  where there is no sign of winter.  Boy i'm not
> looking forward to another hot summer... gotta get those linen stays done.
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Bring words and photos together (easily) with
> PhotoMail  - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail.
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I would consider Robert  Trump to be an expert BTW.  He is with the St. 
Louis Opera still I believe.

Sg
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Subject: [h-cost] History of the Parasol
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Hi all,

I've recently written an article on the history of the parasol through
the 16th and early 17th centuries.  

Over the last 4 or 5 years, reenactors and faire people have repeatedly
told me "parasols aren’t period."  I've had the evidence to support
their use for at least as long, but I finally decided to make a formal
article about it.  

Although I am selling items elsewhere on this site, my goal with this
article wasn't to sell more, but to provide reenactors with the
evidence to dispel this particular myth.  So, I invite anyone
interested to have a look.  You may check out the article at
http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/parasolhist.html.

I will be forwarding this article to several lists during the next few
days, so I apologize if you receive this several times. 

I hope you all enjoy,
Margaret Roe


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Feb  1 09:26:14 2006
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] History of the Parasol
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Fascinating article, Margaret! Your parasols look great.

One minor point; Sir Henry Unton would be referred to as "Sir Henry", not "Sir Unton". ( "Sir" is never used with the family name alone. I suppose knighthood existed before surnames were established.)


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish Noble extant wardrobe inventories
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 15:06:41 +0100
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Hi,
Rigsarkivet has some i know. For instance the whole portefeuille that went 
to Sweden when Sophia Magdalena married Gustav III in Sweden 1766. Her whole 
wardrobe is there documented. I dont know how far back they go though, but i 
believe i have read refferences to renaissance inventories in the danish 
book called Dagligliv i Norden i det 16. år. Af Troels Lund.
Sorry for being late, ben buisy embroidering :-)

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 3:26 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Danish Noble extant wardrobe inventories


> Tania, you might want to ask Bjarne...he'd probably know.
> Sg
> Tania Gruning wrote:
>
>>    Hiya all.
>>   I am wondering if anyone know of any danish noble/royal inventories 
>> that are intact? We have had some major royal castle burnings, but could 
>> be they were stored elsewhere. I am especially looking for the 16'th 
>> century.
>>   Tania
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
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>>
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How about approaching the fashion magazines, sewing magazines, or big design 
houses with a proposal?  Or museums?

Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.




>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories
>Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 16:44:59 -0600 (CST)
>
>(He developed a
>reasonable familiarity with costume terms because of the nature of that
>work, but I would guess costume research doesn't pay the bills the way
>family history or heraldic research does.)
>
>--Robin
>
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning/reeds yet again
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<--- "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:
<
<I'm bracing myself to do yet another corset with tabs.  This time I would
<like to use something besides steel because the steels that go down into the
<tabs from the corset itself tend to bend and stay bent.  Besides, they are
expensive.
<
<I happen to have some real whale bone, both as stay size pieces and as an
<entire frond.  The young man who gave me the stays told me "don't ask", but
<I suspect they came from Japan.  The small frond I got on E-Bay and came
<with a certificate that it was gotten pre-ban and legally.     I got it
<mainly so I could have something to show when teaching.
<
<Problem is that once you have handled the "real thing" you aren't going to
<be impressed with cable ties as a substitute.  So reeds/broom straw seems a
better answer.
<
<I know that several people have used reed successfully.  How big?  Where did
<you get it?  Either this or maybe a nice broom and lots of quilting thread?
<
<I did check the archives, but didn't see exactly what I was looking for.  Do
<I want 1/4" oval, 1.5mm round reed, 1mm round reed?  Broom?
<
<One reason I particularly want a new corset is because I have done something
<to my back.  On 12th night I knew I was going to be wearing a 35 pound
<houpeland (BIG Sleeves, Velvet lined with light weight wool, full circle)
<and was willing to bet my back was not going to be happy.  I put on my Tudor
<corset made from the corset generator pattern with added tabs and was
<comfortable for 18 hours!  I'm beginning to think this is what I want for
<work as well.  I'm pleasingly plump ;-) and a B cup but I have _hips_ (bum
<roll?  what bum roll?) so the tiny waist immediately flairs out to quite
<substantial hips (weebles wobble, but they don't fall down.)  This means
<that the tabs are a point of considerable strain for any stiffening.
<
<Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey

Wanda,

My effigy-style corset is boned with broomstraw which is astonishingly rigid, but with a little bit of flex. I can't bend over in it, though. The broomstraw isn't millet straw, but something called 'Darwin fibre' - unfortunately the broom company from which I got it has gone out of business. ( I got some millet straw, but I didn't think it would be strong enough. Nor was it long enough. The Darwin fibre looks very much like the reeds/bents in one of the stomachers in Janet Arnold's PoF, I  can't remember which one, offhand. ) The straws are approx. 1mm diameter, with I think somewhere between 10 and 20 straws on average going into each channel. The channels are the width of half of the presser foot on my sewing machine - approx. 5-6mm wide. 

The straws extend down into the tabs, and so far are holding up well to the strain: I have your problem - bumroll, what bumroll? The tabs don't actually flare that acutely - they sort of smooth things out.

The other thing which I have used successfully in the same style corset is hemp cord, the same as on this page:

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/cording/cord.html

The good thing about the hemp cord is that it allows complete freedom of movement, while providing excellent support. On of my friends whose corset is boned with hemp cord has actually slept in it. ( I can lie down in my straw-boned corset, but it's not really the most comfortable thing to do. ) My next corset is going to be done with hemp cord - I need to be able to move in camp.

Hope this helps.

Joannah. 



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From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: the virgin queen
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>Watched Episode 2 last night. The men's a
>anachronistic breeches were more obvious this week 
>(though I liked the tennis scenes), and, as someone
>commented, the women's skirts don't look as though
>they have enough support (perhaps the designers
>thought that farthingales would look as odd  to
>modern eyes as they thought trunk-hose would).
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor

I know. I don't think I can watch it any more, it's
just annoying me EVERY time I see them supposedly
being regal and just looking floppy (skirted)... Mind
you, Kevin McKidd looked mighty fine playing real
tennis :-) so it's not all bad!!

Katherine the not easily pleased.



"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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Subject: [h-cost] inventories o/t Queen Sofie
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There is an exhibition at Kronborg Castle in North Sealand, Denmark about 
the wedding of Frederik II and Sofie, his queen to be.
They reconstrukted her weddingdress, and this link only shows a poor picture 
of it.
Its after a portrait, and i think they did a very fine job.....
http://www.ses.dk/58000a/GSID/661100
Sofie came from Germany and became queen in Denmark.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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Subject: [h-cost] wedding dress of prinsesse Sofie
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Hi sorry.
There are more pictures of the dress if you go to:
http://www.ses.dk/58000a/GSID/661100
Scroll down and there are 2 links written in blue.
The first gives pictures of the opening of the exhibition with pictures of 
the dress,  the second link is a windows movieclip about the wedding..

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What to do with old clothes
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 11:25:45 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks for the info.  Interesting...

Other old clothes can be "recycled" by dropping them off at Animal 
Shelters to be used as rags or bedding for the shelter animals.  
Stained and "raggy" towels and other textiles are also useful to the 
shelters.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Jan 31, 2006, at 6:15 PM, Cin wrote:

> Better than donations to charity, more value-add than quilting from
> clothing scraps, launch your suit into orbit! This fabulous news from
> spaceweather.com
>
> SUITSAT:  On February 3rd, astronauts plan to hurl an old spacesuit
> overboard from the International Space Station.  The disembodied suit,
> nicknamed "SuitSat," will proceed to circle Earth, transmitting a
> radio message which anyone can hear using a police scanner or a ham
> radio tuned to 145.990 MHz FM.  This strange experiment is a test of a
> sensible idea--that old spacesuits might be transformed into useful
> satellites.
>
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] History of the Parasol
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REALLY interesting article!
Two little nits--when you mention "parare, to shield" in the etymology of "parasol," you should also mention "sol, sun."
And please, in possessive form of "it," NO apostrophe.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy (English) and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: mlysett <mlysett@yahoo.com>
>Sent: Jan 31, 2006 10:27 PM
>To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] History of the Parasol
>
>Hi all,
>
>I've recently written an article on the history of the parasol through
>the 16th and early 17th centuries.  
>
>Over the last 4 or 5 years, reenactors and faire people have repeatedly
>told me "parasols aren’t period."  I've had the evidence to support
>their use for at least as long, but I finally decided to make a formal
>article about it.  
>
>Although I am selling items elsewhere on this site, my goal with this
>article wasn't to sell more, but to provide reenactors with the
>evidence to dispel this particular myth.  So, I invite anyone
>interested to have a look.  You may check out the article at
>http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/parasolhist.html.
>
>I will be forwarding this article to several lists during the next few
>days, so I apologize if you receive this several times. 
>
>I hope you all enjoy,
>Margaret Roe
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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>_______________________________________________
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding dress of prinsesse Sofie
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"She" looks beautiful--so simple and elegant. What are the fabrics, do you know?
Thanks!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Sent: Feb 1, 2006 11:11 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] wedding dress of prinsesse Sofie
>
>Hi sorry.
>There are more pictures of the dress if you go to:
>http://www.ses.dk/58000a/GSID/661100
>Scroll down and there are 2 links written in blue.
>The first gives pictures of the opening of the exhibition with pictures of 
>the dress,  the second link is a windows movieclip about the wedding..
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding dress of prinsesse Sofie
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding dress of prinsesse Sofie


> "She" looks beautiful--so simple and elegant. What are the fabrics, do you 
> know?
> Thanks!
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


Hi,
I have not gone to se it yeat, but my guess is that it is made of red velvet 
with gold.
The sleaves and the underdress i dont know!
There is a portrait of her in that dress, but it only shows a little of the 
gown.
She was the mother of our later king Christian IV, who builded many castles 
in Denmark. There is a saying about her birth of Christian. It was a very 
hot summers day, and she had ordered herself and some maids over to a little 
island lying just besides the Frederiksborg Castle. She came into labours, 
and gave birth to Christian there on the island.

Bjarne 


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Hi all, I just got my copy of "Petite Dames du Mode" and it is all I had hoped for. It sure is inspiring for attempts of replication of by gone fashion.

Also, my small crank pinker is Wonderful.  It is about the size of a meat grinder that screws on to the table. There is a thumbnail guide re the spacing of the fabric being pinked.  This helps the fabric to self feed as you crank...in the like manner of the early sewing machines.  I prepared strips of fabric the other eve to be rusched and ran about 4 yards through the pinker in about 2 min. The fabric I was using was a very soft Egyptian cotton.  The edges are somewhat feathery but uniform.  Using a stiffer textile, I got the sharp zigzag one would expect.

Martha Washington's Robe Anglais is looking very spiffy.
Kathleen
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So your experience with noil is that it isn't a sturdy fabric?

De

-----Original Message-----
>I am looking for a light weight material to make a banner.
> I have been recommended Silk Noil as a possible fabric.
> How sturdy is silk noil

Not very. If you're going to use noil, you might as well use 100% cotton.


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Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2006 16:37:43 -0500
From: "Jeanine E. Swick" <jeanine@woollycat.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT -- tablet
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Land of Oz wrote:

> I've tried, but I can't think if a single way to make this costume 
> related!
> Denise
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>
Be careful how much you eat or your costumes won't fit?  ;) 

Jeanine

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Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2006 16:45:35 -0500
From: "Jeanine E. Swick" <jeanine@woollycat.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What to do with old clothes
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I'll pass this along to some of the ham radio people I know.  Actually 
I'll get my husband to put it in the next issue of our radio club's 
newsletter (he's the editor).

Jeanine
n1qit


Cin wrote:

>Better than donations to charity, more value-add than quilting from
>clothing scraps, launch your suit into orbit! This fabulous news from
>spaceweather.com
>
>SUITSAT:  On February 3rd, astronauts plan to hurl an old spacesuit
>overboard from the International Space Station.  The disembodied suit,
>nicknamed "SuitSat," will proceed to circle Earth, transmitting a
>radio message which anyone can hear using a police scanner or a ham
>radio tuned to 145.990 MHz FM.  This strange experiment is a test of a
>sensible idea--that old spacesuits might be transformed into useful
>satellites.
>
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
>  
>

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For garmets I've found noil to be very sturdy, but the edges to have to be 
carefully finished.  However, I would not recommend using it for a banner. 
It doesn't look like silk.  It looks like slubby linen. Also, it is not 
color fast and will continue to shed dye every time you wash it.  The cream 
noil lining of my green & blue noil dress is definitely now pale teal.  If 
you're using high contrast colors, they will likely bleed on each other if 
it gets wet.

You can get much lighter silks for probably about the same price.  A friend 
who does silk dyed banners recommends Habotai.  Check Dharma Traders.

Tayla


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 12:50 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fabric question SOT


> So your experience with noil is that it isn't a sturdy fabric?
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>I am looking for a light weight material to make a banner.
>> I have been recommended Silk Noil as a possible fabric.
>> How sturdy is silk noil
>
> Not very. If you're going to use noil, you might as well use 100% cotton.
>
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Feb  1 17:01:13 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] thanks for your replyes of my embroideries and prices
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Hi all,
Sorry that i got buisy and didnt answer all your nice replyes to the 
questions i gave about prices and embroidery.
I suddently got an invitation for a Hunting Feast in Germany at the end of 
this month, and therefore got much more buisy than usual.
A lady and her daughter invited me, and i have to make them embroidered 
purses as gifts.
But worth of all i have to make myself a new suit!
The party will last for 2 days, and there will be strolls in a castle wood 
nearby. This makes me want to bring 2 costumes with me. My blue suit for the 
evenings and a new one i have to make. I originally planned to embroider 
this fabric, but i have to cancel this. I will make it just plain with nice 
buttonholes.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_pursuit_of_fashionembroidery.htm
The bottom.
Ill make a pale yellow waistcoat also plain for this jacket and 
breeches............
The green taffeta is shot in green and gold.
I cant wear the embroidered old suit anymore. The embroidery is compleately 
worned out at the innersides of the cuffs. Its the gold bullion threads, 
that ruined the silk embroidery threads..............

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Dear Kathleen,

Where did you get this pinker? I would love to buy one...

Thanks,
Michaela
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 8:19 PM
Subject: [h-cost] book


Hi all, I just got my copy of "Petite Dames du Mode" and it is all I had
hoped for. It sure is inspiring for attempts of replication of by gone
fashion.

Also, my small crank pinker is Wonderful.  It is about the size of a meat
grinder that screws on to the table. There is a thumbnail guide re the
spacing of the fabric being pinked.  This helps the fabric to self feed as
you crank...in the like manner of the early sewing machines.  I prepared
strips of fabric the other eve to be rusched and ran about 4 yards through
the pinker in about 2 min. The fabric I was using was a very soft Egyptian
cotton.  The edges are somewhat feathery but uniform.  Using a stiffer
textile, I got the sharp zigzag one would expect.

Martha Washington's Robe Anglais is looking very spiffy.
Kathleen
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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish Noble extant wardrobe inventories
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Of Course Bjarne.
  Embroidering is more interesting than answering questions I should be able to find myself ;-)
   
  Tania

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
  Hi,
Rigsarkivet has some i know. For instance the whole portefeuille that went 
to Sweden when Sophia Magdalena married Gustav III in Sweden 1766. Her whole 
wardrobe is there documented. I dont know how far back they go though, but i 
believe i have read refferences to renaissance inventories in the danish 
book called Dagligliv i Norden i det 16. år. Af Troels Lund.
Sorry for being late, ben buisy embroidering :-)

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WickedFrau" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 3:26 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Danish Noble extant wardrobe inventories


> Tania, you might want to ask Bjarne...he'd probably know.
> Sg
> Tania Gruning wrote:
>
>> Hiya all.
>> I am wondering if anyone know of any danish noble/royal inventories 
>> that are intact? We have had some major royal castle burnings, but could 
>> be they were stored elsewhere. I am especially looking for the 16'th 
>> century.
>> Tania
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
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>>
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I'm hoping the wisdom of the list can come to my rescue here.

I'm putting together a heraldic cloak using a blanket weight winter white wool as the base fabric.  This is a cloak I plan to wear and use, so I'm not expect it to stay good as new.  But I would like to make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?  I don't want to harm the characteristics of the wool, but a little stain prevention would be nice.  Any ideas?

Tayla  
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Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 22:46:18 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?
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It has at least as much caffeine as Coca Cola, and more sugar.  I have 
known all-night programming/gaming types go back to the US and be unable 
to keep awake on Coke, having got used to Irn Bru!

Also recommended in Scotland as a hangover cure.

Jean


Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote
>
>And what is Irn Bru?
>
>Bright orange Scottish 'fruit' flavoured fizzy drink, 'made in Scotland from
>girders'.
>
>http://www.irn-bru.co.uk/
>
>Debs
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] Queen Sophie's reconstructed dress
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Just been surfing for information for my current project and came across 
this page
http://www.rosenborgslot.dk/v1/person.asp?PersonID=12&countryID=2&PersonTypeID=2

with the portrait of Queen Sophie.

Thought you might like to see it.
Kelly 
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 20:25:22 -0500
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Status: RO

ScotchGuard the wool?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 1, 2006, at 3:05 PM, Sablerose wrote:

> I'm hoping the wisdom of the list can come to my rescue here.
>
> I'm putting together a heraldic cloak using a blanket weight winter 
> white wool as the base fabric.  This is a cloak I plan to wear and 
> use, so I'm not expect it to stay good as new.  But I would like to 
> make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?  I don't want to 
> harm the characteristics of the wool, but a little stain prevention 
> would be nice.  Any ideas?
>
> Tayla
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 21:51:31 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 18c stays
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>And from all the discussion, it looks like there are a variety of
>preferences for the boning:
>
>- cable ties
>- reed
>- metal

1/4" white steel
1/2" white steel
1/4" spiral
1/2" spiral

>- plastic

Dritz featherboning
1/4" Rigiline
1/2" Rigiline
Wissner (the German type) in several widths and thicknesses
And there is another type - I remember seeing it sold by Grannd Garb.

>(but it sounds like this is not the ideal option, since plastic is 
>sweaty no matter where you live).

      It's all sweaty.  Metal does not "breathe", though I suppose the 
spiral type is more permeable than the white steel.  Rigiline is also 
a woven thing, but it's nylon & polyester.

      A lot of it is a matter of body type and the amount of support 
wanted.  They had fully-boned and half-boned stays.  Half-boned will 
breathe more no matter what boning material is used.

      I never had a problem with sweaty stays - I find a linen shift 
underneath is quite comfy.  At an outdoor event in 90 degrees, 
everyone is hot no matter what they are wearing.  A handkerchief also 
keeps for sun protection.

      -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 20:07:08 -0700
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The best (used loosely) beverage equivalents for staying-awake purposes (at
least, here in the U.S.) would be Mountain Dew, and Jolt.  Jolt advertises
itself as having "all the sugar and twice the caffeine" of regular colas.  I
know it kept me awake a time or two (or three...<g>) when I was in college.
Dunno about using it for a hangover cure, though.  I've been known to use a
good, cold Coke Classic or two to help whomp a migraine, though....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?


> It has at least as much caffeine as Coca Cola, and more sugar.  I have
> known all-night programming/gaming types go back to the US and be unable
> to keep awake on Coke, having got used to Irn Bru!
>
> Also recommended in Scotland as a hangover cure.
>
> Jean
>
>
> Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote
> >
> >And what is Irn Bru?
> >
> >Bright orange Scottish 'fruit' flavoured fizzy drink, 'made in Scotland
from
> >girders'.
> >
> >http://www.irn-bru.co.uk/
> >
> >Debs


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric question SOT
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Habotai is good too - but potentially *any* strong coloured silks will run if 
the rain is heavy enough, as they're generally manufactured as dry clean 
only, so it's never intended that they'll com into contact with huge amounts of 
water.

Debbie

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In a message dated 2/2/06 3:01:58 AM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Also recommended in Scotland as a hangover cure.
> 
> Jean

for which it works wonderfully!!

Debs
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In a message dated 2/2/06 3:01:58 AM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> The best (used loosely) beverage equivalents for staying-awake purposes (at
> least, here in the U.S.) would be Mountain Dew,

Nigel (other half) was incredibly upset when they withdrew mountain dew over 
here, cos he loved it (couldn't stand it personally).

But we also have red bull as a stay awake thing - fabulous since they brought 
in the sugar free one - but incredibly bad for you - huge quantities of 
caffiene, and taurine, just for that extra kick!

Oh - and to bring the crisps etc thing back on topic, a friend once made a 
pair of trouers out of old crisp packets...
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Thank you for all the feedback. Creating a website for  Nostalgic Needle was 
a bigger endeavor than I realized it would be. 
 
Sorry about the typos, "bukkion," should have  read "bullion," 
 
The top of each page has the email address, however a  contact us link is a 
good idea.
 
The reason we hadn't put any links was so would not alienate  any of the many 
shops that carry Nostalgic Needle charts. When we update  will have to 
include a list of shops and their links. Four shops that do carry  Nostalgic Needle 
are:
 
_Needlework Samplers Traditional  Stitches_ (http://traditionalstitches.com/) 
 
 
_http://www.emlis.com/nostalgic.htm_ (http://www.emlis.com/nostalgic.htm)   
 
Lucia's Needle Arts
1948 S. Main St.
Mansfield, PA  16933-9700
1-888-662-7024
_www.flyingneedle.com_ (http://www.flyingneedle.com/) 
_flying@epix.net_ (mailto:flying@epix.net) 


_www.crisscrossrow.com_ (http://www.crisscrossrow.com) 
Thanks again for all  the responses, 
Ola
 
At 5:46 PM -0500 1/30/06, ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
>I agree  with Ann. I used Safari on a Mac OS X and it was fine--pages 
>loaded very  quickly. The colors were quite nice for me, and the 
>design of the pages  was clear and consistent. I liked the stitch 
>listings (is there really a  stitch called "bukkion," though? I'd 
>have thought "bullion," but I'm not  an advanced student of 
>embroidery!
>Order and contact information  are really needed for this appetizing 
>presentation.

Yes, I think  a bit of copy-editing is needed in a few places. I think 
I noticed  "splender" (for splendor), "acron" (for acorn), and "The 
inspiration for  this sampler are..."

I gather that these kits are not available from the  website directly? 
If they are, ordering info is definitely needed. If not, a  link to 
some retailers who carry them would be much  appreciated.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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Susan Data-Samtak wrote:

> ScotchGuard the wool?
> 

Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew anually. Spray OUTSIDE.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] book
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 23:23:08 -0500
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This was a 'by chance' item on e-Bay. I happened to look in on a sellers
other items. We have had a discussion of pinkers on the List before.  There
seem to be some modern repros of tools that will "pink" out there but they
do not seem to be as convenient as this old 19th C. tool proves to be.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michaela Feudtner" <feudtner@festefeiern-online.de>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] book


> Dear Kathleen,
>
> Where did you get this pinker? I would love to buy one...
>
> Thanks,
> Michaela
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 8:19 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] book
>
>
> Hi all, I just got my copy of "Petite Dames du Mode" and it is all I had
> hoped for. It sure is inspiring for attempts of replication of by gone
> fashion.
>
> Also, my small crank pinker is Wonderful.  It is about the size of a meat
> grinder that screws on to the table. There is a thumbnail guide re the
> spacing of the fabric being pinked.  This helps the fabric to self feed as
> you crank...in the like manner of the early sewing machines.  I prepared
> strips of fabric the other eve to be rusched and ran about 4 yards through
> the pinker in about 2 min. The fabric I was using was a very soft Egyptian
> cotton.  The edges are somewhat feathery but uniform.  Using a stiffer
> textile, I got the sharp zigzag one would expect.
>
> Martha Washington's Robe Anglais is looking very spiffy.
> Kathleen
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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Would this also work on the wool crepe I will be using
for my son's Frobisher outfit?  I doubt he will be
able to afford to dry clean it after every weekend at
the Faire and I really doubt his skill in handwashing.

--- Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:

> Susan Data-Samtak wrote:
> 
> > ScotchGuard the wool?
> > 
> 
> Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew
> anually. Spray OUTSIDE.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
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> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: protecting wool
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Tayla,

"Camp Dry" might work - it's a spray which I found at Wal-Mart in the 
camping supplies area.  I would test first on a scrap, to make sure 
it doesn't discolor your fabric.  It worked great on a suede bomber 
jacket, however.

Sandy

At 09:00 PM 2/1/2006, you wrote:
>From: "Sablerose" <tayla@sablerose.net>
>Subject: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
>
>I'm hoping the wisdom of the list can come to my rescue here.
>
>I'm putting together a heraldic cloak using a blanket weight winter 
>white wool as the base fabric.  This is a cloak I plan to wear and 
>use, so I'm not expect it to stay good as new.  But I would like to 
>make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?  I don't want to 
>harm the characteristics of the wool, but a little stain prevention 
>would be nice.  Any ideas?
>
>Tayla

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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Susan Data-Samtak and Donna wrote:

>> ScotchGuard the wool?
>> 
>
>Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew anually. Spray OUTSIDE.

Is it still made?  A fellow costumer thought it wasn't. 

Tayla



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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 09:33:44 -0500
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I've seen Scotchguard in the Food Stores in NJ.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 2, 2006, at 1:17 AM, Sablerose wrote:

> Susan Data-Samtak and Donna wrote:
>
>>> ScotchGuard the wool?
>>>
>>
>> Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew anually. Spray OUTSIDE.
>
> Is it still made?  A fellow costumer thought it wasn't.
>
> Tayla
>
>
>
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> 
> 
> Is it still made?  A fellow costumer thought it wasn't. 
> 
> Tayla
> 

Yes, ScotchGuard is still being made. It was taken off the market a few 
years back and reformulated (that was the rumor, anyway) but it is back 
now.


Dawn


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] thanks for your replyes of my embroideries and prices
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On Wednesday 01 February 2006 3:11 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


> I cant wear the embroidered old suit anymore. The embroidery is compleately
> worned out at the innersides of the cuffs. Its the gold bullion threads,
> that ruined the silk embroidery threads..............

It seems a shame that the embroidery on your old suit is worn out.  On the 
other hand, what a wonderful excuse for you to create new, even more 
wonderful embroidery!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Stain resistant wool
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It seems to me I read years ago that wool was naturally stain resistant, 
perhaps due to the lanolin in it.  Anyway, that was one of the reasons 
it was touted as an ideal travel fabric, it doesn't wrinkle as you wear 
it, is easy to dewrinkle in a steamy shower, it doesn't hold onto 
stains, it is comfortable over a large range of temperatures due to it's 
breathability, and since it absorbs moisture and still keeps you warm, 
it is even good in cold damp weather and not sweaty in hot weather... 
well you get the picture.  anyway, I believe the stain resistance is a 
quality of the wool.   Scotchgard would just impair it's other good 
qualities.   Kitty

On Feb 1, 2006, at 3:05 PM, Sablerose wrote:

 >> I'm hoping the wisdom of the list can come to my rescue here.
 >>
 >> I'm putting together a heraldic cloak using a blanket weight winter
 >> white wool as the base fabric.  This is a cloak I plan to wear and
 >> use, so I'm not expect it to stay good as new.  But I would like to
 >> make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?  I don't want to
 >> harm the characteristics of the wool, but a little stain prevention
 >> would be nice.  Any ideas?
 >>
 >> Tayla

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Why shoulders?
--Sue, more apt to get the upper front of her dirty than anything....

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?


> Susan Data-Samtak wrote:
> 
> > ScotchGuard the wool?
> > 
> 
> Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew anually. Spray OUTSIDE.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Hey Kristin,
   
  First, take a deep breath,  Then decide what direction you want, or even think you might want to go in.  This will help you make your boning and pattern decisions.  
   
  Just for the pleasure of doing it?  Only wearing it once a year, indoors in air conditioning?  Don't need much support?  Plastic boning is probably OK,  
  Wearing it all day, all weekend at a reenactment?  Working and bending in it doing laundry at a museum site?  A little more bosom to support?  All your friends are hyper authenic?  Different choices.
   
  I saw you are in PA.  Where?  Some of the 18 cent reenactor folks run workshops in that NY/PA/MD area.  Being in NC, I'm too far away to take advantage of them, but they might fit your ticket.  
   
  Your e-friend MIa in Far off Charlotte, NC

		
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jolt, was Crisps
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--- "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:

The best (used loosely) beverage equivalents for staying-awake purposes (at
least, here in the U.S.) would be Mountain Dew, and Jolt.  Jolt advertises
itself as having "all the sugar and twice the caffeine" of regular colas.  I
know it kept me awake a time or two (or three...<g>) when I was in college.
Dunno about using it for a hangover cure, though.  I've been known to use a
good, cold Coke Classic or two to help whomp a migraine, though....
--Sue

Ever heard of a drink called a Black Russian? My husband was initially taught to make them with Coca-Cola and vodka. 

He proceeded to concoct something he called a Black Cossack - made with Jolt and Polish Pure Spirit ( 80%Alcohol ). I think it got called a Black Cossack because it kicked like one. ;-P  

I was never game to try one. ( Yes, I'm chicken. ) 

It still pales into insignificance beside the time ( a loooong time ago ) when the boys of the house wanted to have a drink, but all that was left in the house was the tail ends of about 6 bottles of spirits. They decided to mix them all together. This concoction then proceded to settle and separate into about 4 different layers and colours ( it didn't curdle! ) and the glass was warm to the touch from the chemical reaction. :-0

They promptly named it 'A Mad Scientist' and drank it. And didn't die.
( And were never able to duplicate it :-> )

Never tried Coke for a migraine. Hmmm.......

Joannah


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Why shoulders?
--Sue, more apt to get the upper front of her dirty than anything....
----- Original Message ----- 
> > ScotchGuard the wool?
> 
> Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew anually. Spray
OUTSIDE.
> 
> Dawn
==================================
Also top of the hood.  These are the areas that will get the wettest if
you are standing out in the rain :).

Catherine

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Protecting wool?
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At 11:59 AM 2/2/2006, you wrote:
>Why shoulders?
>--Sue, more apt to get the upper front of her dirty than anything....
>----- Original Message -----
> > > ScotchGuard the wool?
> >
> > Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew anually. Spray
>OUTSIDE.
> >
> > Dawn
>==================================
>Also top of the hood.  These are the areas that will get the wettest if
>you are standing out in the rain :).
>
>Catherine

Well, wool actually is warmer and sheds water better after it gets a 
bit damp because the fibers expand and form a better insulator.  All 
I do with my wool outfits is let them dry and then brush them off; 
only if something is really dirty do I bother to wash it.  Full 
cleaning is not needed every time a wool outfit is worn if you wear 
the proper undergarments.  The undergarments, on the other hand, 
should be washed after each wearing (that's why I have two shifts, 
one for each day of a weekend).


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Sablerose wrote:

>  But I would like to make it even slightly stain resistant if possible? 

The other thing I would suggest is to cut the length somewhere below the 
knee, but well above the ankle, perhaps 10" up, somewhere around mid 
calf or higher.  This will keep your white wool off the ground and out 
of reach of most mud and grass, splashed water, and such. Much easier to 
keep clean if it's not in the muck in the first place. :)



Dawn


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Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 13:40:02 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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At 01:35 PM 2/2/2006, you wrote:
>Luckily, I'm putting a border of abut 12 inches of black(actually a 
>black and gray plaid) arould the front opening and base of the cloak 
>which will be a little more stain resistant.  But I do plan to cut 
>it above the ankles. For the first time I'm going to photo document 
>the whole process, so I'll let you all know when I get pictures and 
>such up on a website.  I haven't 100% decided yet, but I may hand 
>sew the thing, given the weight of the wool involved.
>
>While I'm at it, does anyone have recommendations for what to line 
>with? I'm trying to decide between linen and light weight polar 
>fleece.  This is blanket weight wool, so it will be plenty warm on 
>its own.  Has anyone lined a winter cloak in linen?  Fur's not 
>really an option for me, so what other historically accurate options do I have?
>
>Tayla
>
>[snip]

The period solution would probably be silk.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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Luckily, I'm putting a border of abut 12 inches of black(actually a black 
and gray plaid) arould the front opening and base of the cloak which will be 
a little more stain resistant.  But I do plan to cut it above the ankles. 
For the first time I'm going to photo document the whole process, so I'll 
let you all know when I get pictures and such up on a website.  I haven't 
100% decided yet, but I may hand sew the thing, given the weight of the wool 
involved.

While I'm at it, does anyone have recommendations for what to line with? 
I'm trying to decide between linen and light weight polar fleece.  This is 
blanket weight wool, so it will be plenty warm on its own.  Has anyone lined 
a winter cloak in linen?  Fur's not really an option for me, so what other 
historically accurate options do I have?

Tayla

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?


> Sablerose wrote:
>
>>  But I would like to make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?
>
> The other thing I would suggest is to cut the length somewhere below the 
> knee, but well above the ankle, perhaps 10" up, somewhere around mid calf 
> or higher.  This will keep your white wool off the ground and out of reach 
> of most mud and grass, splashed water, and such. Much easier to keep clean 
> if it's not in the muck in the first place. :)
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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Status: RO

Re the polar fleece, it does not breathe and can trap body moisture on the
inside.  I am always too warm when I wear a very nice jacket I made. (And of
course, it isn't exactly period...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?


> At 01:35 PM 2/2/2006, you wrote:
> >Luckily, I'm putting a border of abut 12 inches of black(actually a
> >black and gray plaid) arould the front opening and base of the cloak
> >which will be a little more stain resistant.  But I do plan to cut
> >it above the ankles. For the first time I'm going to photo document
> >the whole process, so I'll let you all know when I get pictures and
> >such up on a website.  I haven't 100% decided yet, but I may hand
> >sew the thing, given the weight of the wool involved.
> >
> >While I'm at it, does anyone have recommendations for what to line
> >with? I'm trying to decide between linen and light weight polar
> >fleece.  This is blanket weight wool, so it will be plenty warm on
> >its own.  Has anyone lined a winter cloak in linen?  Fur's not
> >really an option for me, so what other historically accurate options do I
have?
> >
> >Tayla
> >
> >[snip]
>
> The period solution would probably be silk.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fashion dolls again.
Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 23:36:46 +0100
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Hi,
Oh yes i am such a fool not thinking about this. There are lots of these 
dolls for sale.
I even found a seller in England that was selling a Mat doll and a female 
doll i could have used and i could have saved the tax fee for importing to 
Europe............
Well two late :-(

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sabine Pothmann" <naergilien@yahoo.de>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 2:03 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: fashion dolls again.


> Hi all,
>
> I might be a bit late on this subject, but...
>
> "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote on Fri, 20 Jan 2006 
> 18:07:54...
>
>>I remember we disgussed this topic way back. I finally found a danish
>>importer of the famous Tonner Dolls. I ordered 3 of these.
>
> Bjarne, it might be less expensive to buy those dolls directly in the US, 
> on Ebay.com, instead of buying them from an importer.
> On Ebay.com you'll find several dealers who also sell nude dolls, which 
> are just perfect for dressing them ;-)
> I've bought several of them this way when I started making doll costumes.
> See some of my doll costumes - mostly Victorian and Elizabethan - here:
> http://www.naergilien.info/dollclothing.htm
> I mostly make Victorian and Elizabethan clothing - not only dolls - but 
> currently I'm about to make a Rococo gown for Tyler,
> with stays and panier, of course :-)
>
>>Emme, American Beauty and Matt O'Neill.
>
> Emme is just perfect, I also have her! She looks like Glenn Close, and 
> with a reroot, she can act as a perfect Queen
> Elizabeth I. :-)
> I have Tyler, Emme, Kitty Collier (18''), Gene, Jadde Lee and Brenda 
> Starr; they're beautiful to work with.
>
> Best wishes,
> Naergi
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> Telefonate ohne weitere Kosten vom PC zum PC: http://messenger.yahoo.de
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> Re the polar fleece, it does not breathe and can trap body moisture on the
> inside.  I am always too warm when I wear a very nice jacket I made. (And of
> course, it isn't exactly period...

And fleece pills with wear. Even if you think it looks nice now, it 
won't after a while.



Dawn



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I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys pre-wash wool? It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century pirate coat out of it. 
 
Thanks for any advice you can give me. Being from South Texas originally, wool was excluded from my sewing education. :) 
 
Tea Rose
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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I lined my winter cloak with heavy 100% cotton flannel, sold as flannel chamois.  It's warm and soft, shows no signs of pilling and came in various solid colors.  Of course, I don't know who sells it now that JoAnne's has discontinued it.

Janet
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I always prewash my wool, especially if it's going to be lined, a jacket 
usually shrinks in length by an inch or two with the type of wool I use. Not 
sure what would happen with gaberdine, but it doesn't take long to pre-wash 
anyway. It also washes out any chemicals used in the processing, so I don't 
get rashes when working with it.

Glenda.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 10:25 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Wool


> I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is 
> there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys 
> pre-wash wool? It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly 
> period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century 
> pirate coat out of it.
>
> Thanks for any advice you can give me. Being from South Texas originally, 
> wool was excluded from my sewing education. :)
>
> Tea Rose
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> 


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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 17:44:37 -0600
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I would recommend against the (polar)fleece- it is mostly Polyester, and
rubbing against the wool every step you take could generate some "short,
sharp shocks."
Lamb fleece OTOH would be great, but quite heavy!
My .02 lira, Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sablerose
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 3:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?

Luckily, I'm putting a border of abut 12 inches of black(actually a black 
and gray plaid) arould the front opening and base of the cloak which will be

a little more stain resistant.  But I do plan to cut it above the ankles. 
For the first time I'm going to photo document the whole process, so I'll 
let you all know when I get pictures and such up on a website.  I haven't 
100% decided yet, but I may hand sew the thing, given the weight of the wool

involved.

While I'm at it, does anyone have recommendations for what to line with? 
I'm trying to decide between linen and light weight polar fleece.  This is 
blanket weight wool, so it will be plenty warm on its own.  Has anyone lined

a winter cloak in linen?  Fur's not really an option for me, so what other 
historically accurate options do I have?

Tayla

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?


> Sablerose wrote:
>
>>  But I would like to make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?
>
> The other thing I would suggest is to cut the length somewhere below the 
> knee, but well above the ankle, perhaps 10" up, somewhere around mid calf 
> or higher.  This will keep your white wool off the ground and out of reach

> of most mud and grass, splashed water, and such. Much easier to keep clean

> if it's not in the muck in the first place. :)
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wool
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is
> there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys
> pre-wash wool?

I always pre-wash my wool.  As someone said, it washes out any chemicals
used in processing and it leaves you the *option* of washing it again.

Honestly, I have never had to wash an entire garment that I have made in
my 15-odd years of sewing historical costumes.  Spot cleaning works fine
or putting my hem in the bathtub ;~>

> It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly
> period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century
> pirate coat out of it.

Also, washing a wool gabardine will shrink it and thicken it up a bit so
it will be less modern-looking.  Every little bit helps!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
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Are you going to throw the jacket in the wash once it's made? That's usually 
my idea when working with any fabric.  If I want to wash the garment in a 
machine once it's made, I wash the material in Hot water and dry in the 
dryer (unless I'm fulling cloth for an 18thC coat, then I full properly, not 
in the dryer).

Wool is wonderful to work with, take a small piece of it and play with it 
before you sew your garment. It will streatch and shrink under steam and 
heat, it will go whereever you tell it to.  Play with it first, then you'll 
get the feel of it!

Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 7:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Wool


> I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is 
> there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys 
> pre-wash wool? It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly 
> period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century 
> pirate coat out of it.
>
> Thanks for any advice you can give me. Being from South Texas originally, 
> wool was excluded from my sewing education. :)
>
> Tea Rose
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Stain resistant wool
Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 21:46:42 -0500
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> It seems to me I read years ago that wool was naturally stain resistant, 
> perhaps due to the lanolin in it.

Yes, and also waterproof for the same reason. The wool we get now, though, 
has been treated chemically, so it's not quite as good. Still worth it 
though. 

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Subject: [h-cost] Sees
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----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> ObCostume: So, for those familiar with See's -- what era is the 
> inspiration/origin of their uniforms? (See 
> <http://www.sees.com/about.cfm> for an example.) It strikes me as 
> somehow earlier rather than later 20th century, but the 20th century 
> isn't exactly my area of costuming interest...

I'd say early tacky or late dowdy ;-)  Seriously though, I've seen some hideous work uniforms but I think Sees is a real leader here.  Fortunately their candy is wonderful and they're not selling their uniforms...those poor ladies...

Julie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sees
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I've seen worse, Darrell Lea in Australia used to have their shop assistants 
in a large shapeless shift with a huge floppy bow about the same place as 
this uniform. Shocking! Unfortunately, I can't find a photo of these on the 
net. Anyone else in OZ have any pics?

Glenda.

, but the 20th century
>> isn't exactly my area of costuming interest...
>
> I'd say early tacky or late dowdy ;-)  Seriously though, I've seen some 
> hideous work uniforms but I think Sees is a real leader here.  Fortunately 
> their candy is wonderful and they're not selling their uniforms...those 
> poor ladies...
>
> Julie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> 


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 16th Century Effigies
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Passing this alone from another list...

Good news! A brand new research resource for c16th dress arrives on line - a
pilot database of images is available at:

http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies

This is the first stage of a project to photograph and make available
photographs of Tudor effigies in UK churches. The pilot database contains 44
effigies with photographs of items and features of dress. This represents
about two per cent of the material that could be compiled from similar
sources.

Eventually, each effigy and its details will have a description with
appropriate c16th terms and an explanation of how they were worn.

The database has been compiled by Dr Jane Malcolm-Davies at Winchester
School of Art. Feedback on the usefulness of the images and suggestions for
improvement will help with an application for continued funding for the
project.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Subject: [h-cost] linning of cape
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sablerose" <tayla@sablerose.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?


Hi, i didnt follow the thread, sorry.
Wich period is your cloak?
18th century cloaks are not lined. The one i made is angle lenght, cut after 
a williamsburg cloak and has 2 collars on.
I close mine with tin hooks and eyes, 3 in all.
Its not lined, and originals wasnt either.

Bjarne


> While I'm at it, does anyone have recommendations for what to line with? 
> I'm trying to decide between linen and light weight polar fleece.  This is 
> blanket weight wool, so it will be plenty warm on its own.  Has anyone 
> lined a winter cloak in linen?  Fur's not really an option for me, so what 
> other historically accurate options do I have?
>
> Tayla
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
>
>
>> Sablerose wrote:
>>
>>>  But I would like to make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?
>>
>> The other thing I would suggest is to cut the length somewhere below the 
>> knee, but well above the ankle, perhaps 10" up, somewhere around mid calf 
>> or higher.  This will keep your white wool off the ground and out of 
>> reach of most mud and grass, splashed water, and such. Much easier to 
>> keep clean if it's not in the muck in the first place. :)
>>
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wool
Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 11:17:42 +0100
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Hi,
Wool is very nice to work with. It presses and irons well and the only thing 
you should be conserned about is when you steam press seams. Be sure to use 
a cloth on top, some times it makes shiny marks on the surface.
My cloak is made of wool flannel, and it is also very light, but if drapes 
so well.
Good luck!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:25 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Wool


> I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is 
> there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys 
> pre-wash wool? It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly 
> period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century 
> pirate coat out of it.
>
> Thanks for any advice you can give me. Being from South Texas originally, 
> wool was excluded from my sewing education. :)
>
> Tea Rose
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 06:29:43 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wool
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

First, gabardine probably is period for 17th century -- it's just a
hard-finished lightweight twill.

I almost always pre-wash my wools but you do lose some to shrinkage -- it
varies widely depending on the wool, but figure 10% to 15% just to be safe.
If I'm not sure how the wool will respond to a prewash, I measure off an
8-inch square and test-launder that.

I like the feel of wool once it's been washed -- it's softer and less
chemical-feeling. 

IF you have enough extra to allow for shrinkage, you'll get a slightly more
period finish if you wash your wool in the machine on cold with a gentle
soap (I use Dr. Bronner's liquid soap for this) and allow it to dry flat or
hung on a line. Just takes some of the "modern" off it.

This pre-washing also might allow you to cold-wash the finished garment
occasionally, but in the case of a pirate coat, which probably has lots of
construction details, you'll probably want to dry clean (or just let it get
piratically dirty!) anyway.

I am actually writing this in my just-completed 11th-century overgown, which
I made from an 80% wool/20% cashmere coating that I washed on warm and hung
to dry before I cut it out. Normally I'd have run it through the dryer once,
too, but this was already so heavy and warm that I didn't want it to get any
thicker. 

My under-gown is a plainweave tropical worsted wool which I did machine wash
and dry. Because it was a pretty fine worsted, it didn't full the way a
flannel will, but it is softer and a little more dense, post-wash.

One of the great things about working with wool is that it has a bit of
natural stretch to it.

Have fun with your pirate coat!
-- 
Lauren M. Walker
-- 
"One does not need buildings, money, power, or status to practice the Art of
Peace. Heaven is right where you are standing, and that is the place to
train." -- Morihei Ueshiba


>> I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is
>> there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys
>> pre-wash wool? It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly
>> period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century
>> pirate coat out of it.
>> 
>> Thanks for any advice you can give me. Being from South Texas originally,
>> wool was excluded from my sewing education. :)
>> 
>> Tea Rose
>> _______________________________________________
>>

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From: "Lori Alston" <asl@iw.net>
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Subject: Fw: [h-cost] Sees
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http://www.wweek.com/html/lifefeature112499.html

Second one down in black and white you can see the big bow...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6031569409&category=15953
Barbire in a uniform this one fits better on Barbie then they do in real 
life behind the counter


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendarob@exemail.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:02 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sees


> I've seen worse, Darrell Lea in Australia used to have their shop 
> assistants in a large shapeless shift with a huge floppy bow about the 
> same place as this uniform. Shocking! Unfortunately, I can't find a photo 
> of these on the net. Anyone else in OZ have any pics?
>
> Glenda.
>
> , but the 20th century
>>> isn't exactly my area of costuming interest...
>>
>> I'd say early tacky or late dowdy ;-)  Seriously though, I've seen some 
>> hideous work uniforms but I think Sees is a real leader here. 
>> Fortunately their candy is wonderful and they're not selling their 
>> uniforms...those poor ladies...
>>
>> Julie
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 21:51:27 -0500
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Try Fabric.com or DenverFabric.com

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 2, 2006, at 6:26 PM, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:

> I lined my winter cloak with heavy 100% cotton flannel, sold as 
> flannel chamois.  It's warm and soft, shows no signs of pilling and 
> came in various solid colors.  Of course, I don't know who sells it 
> now that JoAnne's has discontinued it.
>
> Janet
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: extant inventories
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Speaking of extant inventories, can anyone point me to one that is 
published from 16th-century France?  I'm looking for one that details 
women's garments rather than men's, and pretty much any range of years 
is fine.  I should be able to get Inventaires de la Royne Descosse (Mary 
Queen of Scots' inventories for 1556-69), but does anyone know of others?

Many thanks,
Melanie Schuessler

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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] my first glove! 
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I used Vogue 7949 on some embroidered suede fabric. It's a little narrow 
on my hand, but not unwearable for costume purposes. (There's no method 
of sizing the pattern included despite the S-M-L claim) Overall I'm 
fairly pleased with the outcome:


www.reddawn.net/costume/art/pirate/glove.jpg




Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola's funky partlet
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This is a response to a discussion from January 5th thru 8th about Laura de
Pola¹s partlet (Portrait of Laura de Pola, by Lorenzo Lotto, housed in
Milan). 

When my copy of Moda a Firenze showed up in the mail this week, it confirms
that the partlet is goldwork. It says that ³The roses on the partlet have a
very marked three-dimensional aspect, produced by the use of gold purles.²
Purle being the high-relief gold threads that were used in goldwork. It also
talks about Eleonora of Toledo ordering samples of the gold mesh that was
used in manufacturing such partlets.

Since so many theories were postulated, I thought you might want to know
what it actually is.

The file I have of her portrait is very washed out on the yellows, as many
are. If you adjust the color to bring her belt and fan hande/chain to a
proper ³gold² color, you¹ll find the partlet and cap change to gold as well.

Kat
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wool
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Diana Habra wrote:
> Also, washing a wool gabardine will shrink it and thicken it up a bit so
> it will be less modern-looking.  Every little bit helps!

If it is a very fine, tightly spun gabardine, washing will not change it 
very much. But it will still remove leftover chemicals.

liz young

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Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 10:37:33 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my first glove!
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
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That is just fabulous!!! I really like this pattern. It is a copy of
one of their 1947 sets that they published way back when. The thumb
is the give away. Isn't that just the funkiest thumb you have ever
seen?

I love that suede.

What Vogue means by S-M-L is that that our hand from finger tip to
base of palm is either 6-7-8 inches in length OR it is 6-7-8 inches
around at the fattest part of our hand. I am betting it is the
fingertip measure.

But having seen your work through the years I know you are more than
talented enough to enlarge the pattern to suit your needs.

Congrats on making that glove, I love it! :)

Chiara
glovemaker

On Fri, February 3, 2006 9:29 am, Dawn said:
> I used Vogue 7949 on some embroidered suede fabric. It's a little
> narrow
> on my hand, but not unwearable for costume purposes. (There's no
> method
> of sizing the pattern included despite the S-M-L claim) Overall I'm
> fairly pleased with the outcome:
>
>
> www.reddawn.net/costume/art/pirate/glove.jpg
>
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Franchesca Havas
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Wool
Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 11:04:14 -0600
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The problem with washing wool is that water and detergent both weaken
the fibers. The effect is worsened if you add agitation to the water and
detergent. Also, washing will remove whatever lanolin is left in the
fabric.

That is why it's best to spot clean woollen garments, or dry clean them.

That said, I have washed wool. I use cool water and a special cleaner,
like Ensure or Orvus. And I don't do it often, if I want the garment to
last.

Fabric made of worsted wool (such as gabardine) will not felt. Worsted
wool is only the longest, strongest, smoothest fibers from the fleece.

Kim

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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Wool
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uummm... as a spinner I have a question about a few of your statements......

my replies are marked with **

----- Original Message -----
From: kim baird <kbaird@cableone.net>
> 
> The problem with washing wool is that water and detergent both weaken
> the fibers. 

**  This is partly true - SOME soaps are slightly harsh. But saying that - I have some wool items that my Grandmother owned and she didn't use specialty soap, nor hand washed in cold. She used her washer and warm water. They are just as sturdy as when she used them.

> The effect is worsened if you add agitation to the water and detergent. 

** The combination of hot water AND agitation causes felting to a degree .... I agitate my wool items in warm water and they don't shrink - (OK they first shrunk 2% but didn't after the first time).

> Also, washing will remove whatever lanolin is left in the fabric.

** Usually lanolin isn't in fabric - by the time it gets to the fabric mills most of the lanolin is removed by chemical process. To the Manucturing Industry lanolin is -by far- worth more than plain ol' wool. Besides chemicals are used to strip the lanolin - so you would have to worry more about formaldehyde and other chemicals than lanolin.

> Fabric made of worsted wool (such as gabardine) will not felt. Worsted
> wool is only the longest, strongest, smoothest fibers from the fleece.

** Worsted is a term for the way the wool is spun/ processed  - not the fibers themselves. You can spin any part of the fleece worsted.

Katheryne
Spinner for 12 years
who is more than willing to be corrected on her fabric info
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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola's funky partlet
Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 09:12:12 -0800
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Where does one obtain a copy of this?  I looked on amazon, but it's  
not there.
many thanks!

On Feb 3, 2006, at 7:29 AM, celtkin wrote:

> Moda a Firenze

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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Subject: [h-cost] The scoop on wool
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I quote below from a paper I wrote in grad school (2005):

Woollens versus Worsteds
Since early times, two methods have been used to make cloth from wool.
The process and the product are referred to as woollen or worsted.(61)
Sheep's wool varies widely in length and diameter, even on the same
animal, and certainly between breeds. Fibers are sorted before
processing.
Worsted yarns are made by separating out the shorter fibers (one to
three inches) before spinning the longer ones (two and a half to nine
inches) into a tightly spun, smooth and strong yarn.(62)  Fabrics made
of worsted yarns, such as gabardine and serge, have a smooth, hard
surface. Worsteds are typically used for apparel. The term, as so many
fabric names, comes from a town where this style of fabric was made.
Worstead is a small town in Norfolk, England, once famous for its wool
fabric produced from longer-staple yarns.(63)
Woollen yarns are spun from the shorter fibers, which also tend to be
finer and softer. Woollen fabrics range from soft and light to heavy and
rough.(64)  Besides the length of the fiber, the main difference between
a woollen and a worsted is the finishing required. Woollen fabrics are
fulled, napped and sheared after weaving.(65)  Woollens are utilized in
warmer fabrics for blankets and outerwear.
Generally, worsted is easier to manufacture. The wool need not be
scoured before spinning, nor does it require fulling after the cloth is
woven. It was probably the earlier of the two systems, as most of the
surviving early wools are of the worsted type. 

 61- W. J. Onions, Wool: An Introduction to its Properties, Varieties,
Uses and Production (London: Ernest Benn Limited, 1962),  5.

 62 - Ibid., 1.

  63 - John H. Munro, "Medieval Woollens: Textiles, Textile Technology
and Industrial Organisation, c. 800-1500," in The Cambridge History of
Western Textiles, vol. 1, David Jenkins, ed. (Cambridge: Cambridge
University Press, 2003),183.

  64 -Onions, 6.

  65 - Munro, 183.


Kim

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: wool woolen/worsted...
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Status: RO

Um I was 'learned' that you can comb anything that has a fiber length 
longer than the depth of the comb (see combed cotton for *short*) to 
make combed rovings.
How you spin it then makes it worsted--drafting the fibers parallel 
to each other before the twist enters the drafting zone.
Longer fibers make better worsted---BUT---unless it's hand combed and 
spun, you are getting the same shorter fibers that go in woolen 
yarns. The commercial mills first process wool into carded batts 
before they feed the fiber into the combing machine. Because of 
several techie requirements, very long fibers are 'bad' and can get 
chopped down to a uniform length or rejected entirely...Once 
processed into combed top it is then spun worsted. Don't believe 
me--unspin some yarn and check the fiber length. It broke my heart 
when I found out how short the fibers are in modern linen cloth :-(

You can produce semi worsted where you spin one way and process the 
fiber the other.

Oh and true worsted has all the fibers laid butt to tip so the scales 
flow in the same direction--not something you can get in a mill 
situation.

Costume content--Up until just after WWII you could still get hand 
combed worsted suiting in England. It was held that the hand 
processing made for a better cloth and thus better suits. Then the 
old geezers died off and the youngsters were not interested in 
following the trade--a hard dirty one!

Ta
Carol--happily combing a trash fleece to remove the short 
bits/trash/second cuts. What's left spins like butter.
And who dreams of a Noble machine--all gears and belts and dangerous 
bits the size of a Volkswagon!
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 20:27:21 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Hi,
I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of
the english coat in Costume Close Up.
It really is difficult to adapt an old pattern to a modern size.
The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly on
me. I have to redy the cut.
This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same
problems?
The gustavian suit i made last year, didnt have to be ajusted very much in
comparison, but it is very painfull to wear it long times, because it pushes
my shoulders so much backwards.
I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any
att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles in
the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
This is very odd...........

Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at this
point, but no...............







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: celtkin <celtkin@comcast.net>
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Status: RO


I bought _Moda a Firenze_ from Lacis, but it is also available via alibris
or abebooks.com (don't remember which). And if you Google for it, you can
probably find the best price that way. I recall finding it for less shortly
after I placed my order with Lacis. It also costs slightly less if you're
willing to have it shipped from Italy, but that can take a month or more
based on some recent experiences with books coming from Europe (they haven't
arrived yet!). 

Moda was published just last year and is in the same vein as Queen
Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, centered around Eleonor of Toledo and her
wardrobe accounts, Florence 1540-1580. There is not quite as much text as
QEWU, but the book is full-color on heavy, velvety coated paper -- a truly
beautiful book, worth every penny. The essays are in Italian and English.
There were many paintings I had not seen before, along with interesting
discussions of each element of the typical Florentine wardrobe during
Eleonor's time (petticoat, gown, partlet, smock, hairstyles, etc.), some
discussion about tailors and embroiders, extant garments, a printing of
Eleanor's wardrobe inventories (in Italian only) and a great little glossary
of Italian wardrobe and textile terms.

Now if someone would publish a book like this about German fashion, I would
be in heaven! 

Gysela

> Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 09:12:12 -0800
> From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola's funky partlet
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> 
> Where does one obtain a copy of this?  I looked on amazon, but it's
> not there.
> many thanks!
> 
> On Feb 3, 2006, at 7:29 AM, celtkin wrote:
> 
>> Moda a Firenze


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I bought my copy of _Moda a Firenze_ from Lacis (http://www.lacis.com/) in Berkeley CA, but I have heard they ran out... you could call and see if they got more in, as my info is a month old. 

Yesterday I noticed that Hedgehog Handworks (http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT6001.shtml) is selling it on line. (I've never ordered from them on-line, so I don't know how reliable they are).

You can also order directly from the Museum, but they want payment in Italian currency (and no credit cards) which I found problematic.
	-sunny




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Subject: [h-cost] Re: my first glove!
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Having seen Dawn's glove in person, I can attest that it's every bit as droolworthy as it looks in the picture. However, regarding the sizing of the pattern, I thought I'd point out that Dawn's hands are long and narrow, while mine are short and wide, and when I tried on the glove it was obviously sized for someone of her hand shape and not mine. It was much too narrow across the knuckles and the fingers were way too long for me -- a problem I often have with commercial gloves.  
 
That won't stop me from putting a pair of gloves on my list of things to make after my pirate costume, though! Those are too cool to resist.
 
Tea Rose
 
-----------------------------

Message: 13
Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 09:29:35 -0600
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
Subject: [h-cost] my first glove! 
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <43E376DF.5030509@reddawn.net>
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I used Vogue 7949 on some embroidered suede fabric. It's a little narrow 
on my hand, but not unwearable for costume purposes. (There's no method 
of sizing the pattern included despite the S-M-L claim) Overall I'm 
fairly pleased with the outcome:


www.reddawn.net/costume/art/pirate/glove.jpg




Dawn
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Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 19:06:23 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: extant inventories/Mary Queen of Scots
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At 15:39 03/02/2006, you wrote:
>Speaking of extant inventories, can anyone point me to one that is 
>published from 16th-century France?  I'm looking for one that 
>details women's garments rather than men's, and pretty much any 
>range of years is fine.  I should be able to get Inventaires de la 
>Royne Descosse (Mary Queen of Scots' inventories for 1556-69), but 
>does anyone know of others?
>
>Many thanks,
>Melanie Schuessler


Melanie

Are you able to pass on more info about the Mary Queen of Scots' 
inventories? I've just completed 4 dresses for Danse Ecosse, who 
dance "at the Court of Mary" and I would love to pass on information to them.

Suzi


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From: Catrijn vanden Westhende <catrijn@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The scoop on wool
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Status: RO

To a certain extent yes, but this is rather oversimplified.  Fibers
can be sorted by staple length before spinning, but they aren't
always.  Woolens are not necessarily spun from just the shorter fibers
- mixed fibers can also be used.  The preparation of the fibers before
spinning - whether they are forced to lie parallel or not - has a very
large effect on whether the resultant product is classified as woolen
or worsted (which I see as more of a spectrum than a black and white
classification), regardless of staple length.  While fulling, napping,
and shearing is one finishing process for a woolen cloth, there are
other options - cloth might be simply fulled; fulled and napped but
not sheared; etc.  Worsteds can also be fulled, although of coarse to
a much lesser extent.  The degree of 'worsted-ness' limits the amount
of fulling that is possible.

Wool is really a quite sturdy fiber.  Water and detergent won't hurt
it much, as long as there's absolutely no bleach.  Of course any
garment will last longer if can avoid repeated washings, but wool's
not any worse about this than most fabrics (and better than some).

- Catrijn

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From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
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Status: RO

I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over 3
yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28" wide so it's a bit small for a tunic
for my other half.

I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves? Any
thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for a
ha'porth of tar' situation.

Can anyone think of something that could be made with it? I suppose if all
else fails I could sell it

--
Caroline
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Status: RO

Harris tweed is amazing stuff- if it's the real thing it is handwoven in the Isle of Harris off the Scottish coast which is why it's so narrow. That's the typical width for a single person handloom. If I were you, I'd consider making him a period hood with perhaps a matching belt pouch ( really nice one, not just a drawstring thingie). Harris tweed is just too nice not to use.
 
Karen
Seamstrix
 


-- Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com> wrote:
I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over 3
yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28" wide so it's a bit small for a tunic
for my other half.

I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves? Any
thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for a
ha'porth of tar' situation.

Can anyone think of something that could be made with it? I suppose if all
else fails I could sell it

--
Caroline
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000e01c628f7$dcff7480$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Status: RO

Bjarne

I find this exact problem often when I utilize 1920's patterns for women. 
The armscye always much too small.  It seems to be also the case when I've 
purchased original garments from the period, I am built very slight and the 
armholes are very tight on me.  It was also a problem in a few patterns I 
used from the 50s as well, but not most of them.

I think people may have been smaller, and less well fed, and so yes, less 
well developed.  I think we may have even discussed the phenomenon here on 
the list at times.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 11:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit


>
> Hi,
> I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of
> the english coat in Costume Close Up.
> It really is difficult to adapt an old pattern to a modern size.
> The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly 
> on
> me. I have to redy the cut.
> This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same
> problems?
> The gustavian suit i made last year, didnt have to be ajusted very much in
> comparison, but it is very painfull to wear it long times, because it 
> pushes
> my shoulders so much backwards.
> I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
> Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any
> att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles 
> in
> the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
> This is very odd...........
>
> Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at 
> this
> point, but no...............
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Suzi Clarke wrote:
> 
> Are you able to pass on more info about the Mary Queen of Scots' 
> inventories? I've just completed 4 dresses for Danse Ecosse, who dance 
> "at the Court of Mary" and I would love to pass on information to them.

It's referenced in the back of The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots by 
  Margaret Swain.

Robertson, J.  Inventaires de la Royne Descosse douairiere de France: 
catalogues of the jewels, dresses, furniture, books, and paintings of 
Mary Queen of Scots : 1556-1569.  Edinburgh:  Bannatyne Club, 1863.

I'm trying to ILL it, but it's fairly rare.

Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler

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Status: RO

I've had the shoulder issue with enlarging patterns from period garments.
I believe that in the 18th century (particularly for the upper classes)
they were trained from childhood that proper posture involved holding the
shoulders back and down giving the body a wider front and narrower back.
In modern America (I don't know about Denmark) a more 'slouchy' posture
is the norm with the shoulders rounded towards the front which is exactly
opposite from the 18th century posture. Aside from re-training ones body
to the period posture, I don't know what can be done except adjusting the
patterns somewhat to accomodate modern posture.....but I don't think it
should be done too much because the broad-chested/narrow-backed look is
part of what makes the fashions work and look right. 


Karen
Seamstrix



On Fri, 3 Feb 2006 20:27:21 +0100 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> 
> Hi,
> I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the 
> pattern of
> the english coat in Costume Close Up.
> It really is difficult to adapt an old pattern to a modern size.
> The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very 
> badly on
> me. I have to redy the cut.
> This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the 
> same
> problems?
> The gustavian suit i made last year, didnt have to be ajusted very 
> much in
> comparison, but it is very painfull to wear it long times, because 
> it pushes
> my shoulders so much backwards.
> I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
> Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle 
> if any
> att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no 
> wrinkles in
> the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
> This is very odd...........
> 
> Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate 
> at this
> point, but no...............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
> Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any
> att all.

_An Elegant Art:  Fashion and Fantasy in the 18th Century_ includes the 
catalog for an exhibit at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and also 
several very interesting articles.  In one, on movement, the author 
talks about proper stance and movement for the upper-class in the 18th 
century:

"For carriage to be considered elegant, the shoulders and arms had to 
look relaxed, the upper arms curving gently away from the torso, not 
dropping straight down at the sides like servants or rustics."  and

"Because the armholes of bodices, vests, and coats were cut very high 
under the arm, it was physically far more comfortable to hold the upper 
arms slightly away from the torso; to drop the arms straight down at the 
sides made the armholes bind.  With his coat buttoned, a man could raise 
his arms up over his head and his coat would not ride up." (p. 45)

Just another thought.

Melanie Schuessler

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
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Caroline wrote:

> I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over 3
> yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28" wide so it's a bit small for a tunic
> for my other half.
> 
> I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves? Any
> thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for a
> ha'porth of tar' situation.

If you have another piece of contrasting fabric you certainly can make a 
tunic with different sleeves. I've done it with less than 3 yards, so 
I'm sure you can do it with 28" width.

I used to cut the sleeves short, and make up the length by putting a 
wide band of contrast in the middle of the sleeve, and along the bottom 
hem, and once I even used the contrast as a sort of yoke.... let me see 
where that picture went...

www.reddawn.net/costume/bluetunc.jpg

That was the most delicious blue wool, but I only had a little over 2 
yards, in pieces that weren't even square, so I pieced it most 
creatively. What you can't see is the 6" dark blue border on the hem.

Sometimes though, if I'm not sure what to make, I just hem the ends and 
use it for a wrap. 3 yards is a nice length to wrap around yourself on a 
chilly morning.


Dawn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: extant inventories/Mary Queen of Scots
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At 23:41 03/02/2006, you wrote:
>Suzi Clarke wrote:
>>Are you able to pass on more info about the Mary Queen of Scots' 
>>inventories? I've just completed 4 dresses for Danse Ecosse, who 
>>dance "at the Court of Mary" and I would love to pass on information to them.
>
>It's referenced in the back of The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots 
>by  Margaret Swain.
>
>Robertson, J.  Inventaires de la Royne Descosse douairiere de 
>France: catalogues of the jewels, dresses, furniture, books, and 
>paintings of Mary Queen of Scots : 1556-1569.  Edinburgh:  Bannatyne 
>Club, 1863.
>
>I'm trying to ILL it, but it's fairly rare.


Thanks Melanie - I've forwarded this to my client, who lives in 
Inverness, so may be able to access it in a Scottish library.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
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Harris tweed is gorgeous stuff (was lucky enough (well boyfriend was anyway) 
to pick up a couple of rolls of it at Leeds market ages ago for next to 
nothing - dead stock from a tailoring supplier - smug grin!!!!)

The real stuff can actually be made on a few of the islands surrounding 
Harris in the Outer Hebrides now (Harris, Lewis, Uist and Barra) - though it 
originated on Harris itself, of course.  

It's protected by Act of Parliament to call it Harris tweed if not "of pure 
virgin wool, spun, dyed and handwoven by islanders in their homes in the Outer 
Hebrides, (all about protecting the livelihood of the crofters weaving it).  
Was a fscinating program when on BBC2 when Nike used H tweed on a trainer.

Would also suggest accessories, or small stuff - making sleeves out of 
something else might well just look odd (though it depends on what it actually is) - 
plus finding something with the same properties might be a task!

Debs



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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Mary Queen of Scots
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The British Library has it - you may be able to order copies of the pages 
here:

http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/ENR7GYAJ1T2JAMUDK25VFG5Y6HJ4XG59HTM9K729C91UJQ4E9A-03231?func=full-set-set&set_number=102549&set_entry=000001&format=999

Kate

>Message: 11
>Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 17:41:37 -0600
>From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: extant inventories/Mary Queen of Scots
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <43E3EA31.8000904@faucet.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
>Suzi Clarke wrote:
> >
> > Are you able to pass on more info about the Mary Queen of Scots'
> > inventories? I've just completed 4 dresses for Danse Ecosse, who dance
> > "at the Court of Mary" and I would love to pass on information to them.
>
>It's referenced in the back of The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots by
>   Margaret Swain.
>
>Robertson, J.  Inventaires de la Royne Descosse douairiere de France:
>catalogues of the jewels, dresses, furniture, books, and paintings of
>Mary Queen of Scots : 1556-1569.  Edinburgh:  Bannatyne Club, 1863.
>
>I'm trying to ILL it, but it's fairly rare.
>
>Good luck,
>Melanie Schuessler
>
>
>
>------------------------------


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Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 15:55:22 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of
>the english coat in Costume Close Up.
>The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly on
>me. I have to redy the cut.
>This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same
>problems?

Yes, of course.  I did Coat, Vest and Breeches from suit #17.  You
might want to troll thru the h-cost discussion from oh say winter 2004
to spring 2005 and pickup all the comments, and answers to my
questions re this suit.

>I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
>Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any

The coat's CF opening is about 4" wide. The buttons & buttonholes have
no useful purpose on Coat #17.  This 4" spread may explain why you
think the original owner of this suit is a skinny dude.
The vest buttons closed, tho many extant vests have only the top
buttonhole actually open & useable.  The rest are sewn but never cut.
If you have the Baumgartner book from Williamsburg, the Norah Waugh
Cut of Men's Clothes and Blanche Payne's layout for the 18th c suit,
you'll get a broad spectrum of cut & fitting ideas.

>att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles in
>the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
>This is very odd...........

Did you make a mockup that included your interfacing and other
interior construction?  Without the interfacing thru the front
pectorial region, over the shoulder and across the upper back, yes it
will wrinkle.  Anything would.  Bodies arent smooth. Only those
corseted, pannier-wearing ladies you dress so marvelously are smooth
thru the body.

Norah Waugh shows the interfacing layout in her diagrams.  If you have
an 18th c suit at hand (perhaps in a friendly museum) or even a 19th
tailcoat, you can feel the changes in interfacing at placket,
shoulders, pectorals, skirts, cuffs, etc. Even a modern *bespoke* suit
will inform.

I'm happy to try to help further, but I've only done the one 18th c
man's garment.  I can however, do some pretty good tailoring.

>Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at this
>point, but no...

I think you'll do just fine.  Wish I could see it in progress,
--cin

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PS - didn't realise it was you!!!  Really should read the e-mail addresses 
occasionally.

Debs
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Mary Queen of Scots
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At 23:50 03/02/2006, you wrote:
>The British Library has it - you may be able to order copies of the 
>pages here:
>
>http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/ENR7GYAJ1T2JAMUDK25VFG5Y6HJ4XG59HTM9K729C91UJQ4E9A-03231?func=full-set-set&set_number=102549&set_entry=000001&format=999
>
>Kate
>
>> > Are you able to pass on more info about the Mary Queen of Scots'
>> > inventories? I've just completed 4 dresses for Danse Ecosse, who dance
>> > "at the Court of Mary" and I would love to pass on information to them.
>>
>>It's referenced in the back of The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots by
>>   Margaret Swain.
>>
>>Robertson, J.  Inventaires de la Royne Descosse douairiere de France:
>>catalogues of the jewels, dresses, furniture, books, and paintings of
>>Mary Queen of Scots : 1556-1569.  Edinburgh:  Bannatyne Club, 1863.
>>
>>I'm trying to ILL it, but it's fairly rare.


Thanks all - apparently my client has some photocopies of 
pages,  taken at the National Library of Scotland, and is using them, 
she now tells me - I didn't know she had these. You might want to contact them.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Moda a Firenze
Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 19:56:50 -0500
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X-Miltered: at persephone with ID 43E3FBEA.004 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!
Status: RO

They are Wonderfully reliable!  Have been ordering from them for about 10
years!

Besides Lacis, they(she) have been offering all the specialty tools and
threads, besides books and manuals that anyone could want for all textile
arts for a very long time.  Lots of personal attention for your wants and
wishes.

(Unsolicited comments!)  Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sunshine_buchler@agilent.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 2:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Moda a Firenze


> I bought my copy of _Moda a Firenze_ from Lacis (http://www.lacis.com/) in
Berkeley CA, but I have heard they ran out... you could call and see if they
got more in, as my info is a month old.
>
> Yesterday I noticed that Hedgehog Handworks
(http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT6001.shtml) is selling it on
line. (I've never ordered from them on-line, so I don't know how reliable
they are).
>
> You can also order directly from the Museum, but they want payment in
Italian currency (and no credit cards) which I found problematic.
> -sunny
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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I'm interested in the outfit worn by the man on the left in black. I 
have my own ideas about what I see in this drawing, but I'd like to get 
a second opinion of what he is wearing.

http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg

How would you interpret the lines on the front of his gown?

The image is by a 19th century artist who did a portfolio of "historical 
costumes", Jan Matejko.


Dawn


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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 22:47:44 -0400
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Status: RO

Hi Bjarne, modern men have larger arms and armscyes due to different types 
of physical activity, for the most part...yes there were occupations such as 
farmers and carpenters, but the upper class gentlemen took part in different 
activities. please don't feel bad about the fit of your armholes.

I thoroughly believe in the muslin fitting block, then using the well fitted 
block to create your pattern, much like you do with women's clothes. I 
really like the book 'metric pattern cutting for menswear' by Winifred 
Aldrich.

Use the Close fitting casual jacket block on p 16, shape a side back seam 
through squaring down from point 17, starting at a point 1/2 way between 
points 14 and 16, shape a nice curve hitting the line squared down from 
point 17. To shape the back shoulder seam,square a line up from the chest 
line at the front armhole. From point 8(the neck point) draw a line to the 
point where the chest line and that front armhole line meet(on the chest 
line). The line you have just drawn is your back shoulder line, cut the rest 
of the shoulder off and twist it around to the front shoulder so that the 
old shoulder seams meet and tape the paper seam together.

The pleats of your coat should sit at the high hip, I usually drop this from 
the waist level between 5 and 10 centimetres, depending on the build of the 
man.

The only problem I have found with any of Ms Aldrich's blocks is that the 
shoulder point is off the shoulder slightly on a lot of people.  This can be 
taken out in the fitting, I think she used a selection of wide shouldered 
manikins to come up with her draft ;-)

I hope that helps
Let me know!
Kelly in Nova Scotia

"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 20:27:21 +0100
>
>
>Hi,
>I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of
>the english coat in Costume Close Up.
>It really is difficult to adapt an old pattern to a modern size.
>The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly 
>on
>me. I have to redy the cut.
>This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same
>problems?
>The gustavian suit i made last year, didnt have to be ajusted very much in
>comparison, but it is very painfull to wear it long times, because it 
>pushes
>my shoulders so much backwards.
>I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
>Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any
>att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles in
>the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
>This is very odd...........
>
>Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at 
>this
>point, but no...............
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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In a message dated 2/3/2006 5:57:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
melanie@faucet.net writes:

For  carriage to be considered elegant, the shoulders and arms had to 
look  relaxed, the upper arms curving gently away from the torso, not 
dropping  straight down at the sides like servants or rustics


Partly it was training in holding one's body--this was one of the things a  
dance master taught--but also, little boys were put into "training" stays, if  
you will, just like girls were, that made them hold their shoulders back.   
Most men, though, left off wearing them when grown.
 
Ann Wass
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-----Original Message-----
I'm interested in the outfit worn by the man on the left in black. I
have my own ideas about what I see in this drawing, but I'd like to get
a second opinion of what he is wearing.

http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg

How would you interpret the lines on the front of his gown?

The image is by a 19th century artist who did a portfolio of "historical
costumes", Jan Matejko.
Dawn

Looks like simplicity pattern 9887 but with straight sleeves.
The trim is running down the opening and you don't see it past the hands as
it looks as if he is pulling the hem up.
De


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Hi Cin,
Did you not enlarge the armscye nor the shoulder width at all?
Thanks for your comments.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 12:55 AM
Subject: re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit


> Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>>I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of
>>the english coat in Costume Close Up.
>>The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly 
>>on
>>me. I have to redy the cut.
>>This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same
>>problems?
>
> Yes, of course.  I did Coat, Vest and Breeches from suit #17.  You
> might want to troll thru the h-cost discussion from oh say winter 2004
> to spring 2005 and pickup all the comments, and answers to my
> questions re this suit.
>
>>I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
>>Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any
>
> The coat's CF opening is about 4" wide. The buttons & buttonholes have
> no useful purpose on Coat #17.  This 4" spread may explain why you
> think the original owner of this suit is a skinny dude.
> The vest buttons closed, tho many extant vests have only the top
> buttonhole actually open & useable.  The rest are sewn but never cut.
> If you have the Baumgartner book from Williamsburg, the Norah Waugh
> Cut of Men's Clothes and Blanche Payne's layout for the 18th c suit,
> you'll get a broad spectrum of cut & fitting ideas.
>
>>att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles 
>>in
>>the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
>>This is very odd...........
>
> Did you make a mockup that included your interfacing and other
> interior construction?  Without the interfacing thru the front
> pectorial region, over the shoulder and across the upper back, yes it
> will wrinkle.  Anything would.  Bodies arent smooth. Only those
> corseted, pannier-wearing ladies you dress so marvelously are smooth
> thru the body.
>
> Norah Waugh shows the interfacing layout in her diagrams.  If you have
> an 18th c suit at hand (perhaps in a friendly museum) or even a 19th
> tailcoat, you can feel the changes in interfacing at placket,
> shoulders, pectorals, skirts, cuffs, etc. Even a modern *bespoke* suit
> will inform.
>
> I'm happy to try to help further, but I've only done the one 18th c
> man's garment.  I can however, do some pretty good tailoring.
>
>>Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at 
>>this
>>point, but no...
>
> I think you'll do just fine.  Wish I could see it in progress,
> --cin
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Hi,
Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much as 
possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand of 
myself.
I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say that 
"oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong and ment for 
theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to look like 
these cuts in the book.
I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........

Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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At 10:19 04/02/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
>It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
>Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as 
>much as possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a 
>dress stand of myself.
>I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we 
>say that "oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so 
>wrong and ment for theater costumes, when in the end our original 
>cut ends up to look like these cuts in the book.
>I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
>It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........


Bjarne

I think I have made this suit twice recently, but I used the pattern 
pieces as a guide only - my customer was a different size - and 
redrafted it to fit. I cut the armholes out when it is on the 
customer, so I know it is comfortable - I know this would be 
difficult for you, but do you have anyone you could trust to help you 
fit a toile?

You could always pop over to London and I could help you fit it! (lol)

Suzi 


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Does anybody have a pattern for 19th century women's pants? Thanks

		
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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi Bjarne.
  My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is quite expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of yourself. The course itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are around 5-700. My mother has one and it is wonderful.
   
  Tania

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
  Hi,
Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much as 
possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand of 
myself.
I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say that 
"oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong and ment for 
theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to look like 
these cuts in the book.
I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........

Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

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Subject: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
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> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 19:31:32 +0000
> From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <37ee9e000602031131hb0e2061x@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over 3
> yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28" wide so it's a bit small for a tunic
> for my other half.
>
> I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves? Any
> thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for a
> ha'porth of tar' situation.
>
> Can anyone think of something that could be made with it? I suppose if all
> else fails I could sell it
>
> --
> Caroline
>
Could you make a sleeveless surcoat from it? Men wore those too
in the 13th century.

Claire 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb  4 07:58:04 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 13:57:34 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket
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Hi all.
After shopping for this weekend and got back again, i got an idea.
Ill send my green embroidered suit to the cleaners on monday, and in stead i 
will embroider new undercuff pieces and replace the old ones.
This is the only thing that needs to be replaced, and embroidering new 
undercuff pieces should not take me long time.
Dont you think this would be fine for a 3 days event if i bring along the 
green and the blue suit? I also have the velvet mundane suit with the red 
waistcoat i could use for the daytimes.
For the other, the Williamsburg suit, i think i could go to proffesional 
helpers. There are small shops here in Copenhagen who takes commision jobs 
of sewing jobs like mending or remade old things. If i bring them my mock 
up, i could have them help me to fit it better..........
I will do this in the future.........

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Hi Tania,
I have seen this in the school brochures sometimes. But 3000. kr. is a lot 
of money.
I think il skip this, but thanks for reminding me

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tania Gruning" <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit


> Hi Bjarne.
>  My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is quite 
> expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of yourself. The 
> course itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are around 5-700. My 
> mother has one and it is wonderful.
>
>  Tania
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>  Hi,
> Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
> It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
> Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much as
> possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand of
> myself.
> I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say that
> "oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong and ment 
> for
> theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to look like
> these cuts in the book.
> I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
> It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
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>
>
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This seems like a very "period" solution, Bjarne!
Have a wonderful time. We'll be looking forward to photos.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Sent: Feb 4, 2006 7:57 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket
>
>... i will embroider new undercuff pieces and replace the old ones....
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
>
>
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 13:32:37 +0000 (GMT)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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Hello all

I'm about to make my first crinoline, suitable for
wearing with a smallish bustle underneath a late
1860s/early70s gown that I recently bought - it's in a
bad way so I'm going to copy it as a pattern then try
and restore it.

Anyway, a lot of the original hoops that I've seen on
museums are made from a kind of sprung wire that is
round rather than the flattened steel i've seen in
various shops. So far I've not found anywhere that
makes the 'olde' type and am therefore assuming that
people go with the flattened steel. What I'm aiming to
do is make a set of women's undergarments (chemise,
bloomers, corset and crinoline) that can be on display
so I'd like the crinoline to look as authentic as
possible. My copy of Period Costume suggests using the
blind-making tape that you can run the steels through
and while that is an ACE idea, I'm not convinced it
will look good when on display.

Has anyone attempted to be uber-authentic in their
steel crinoline construction? I'd really appreciate it
if there were links to pages or sites anyone could
recommend. Google has not turned up anything suitable
so far...

Thanks again,
Katherine, venturing far from her early t-tunic roots.

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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From: "Nancy Kiel" <nancy_kiel@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my first glove!
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 09:05:37 -0500
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A book I found on glove making says to measure around the hand just above 
the thumb.

Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.




>From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] my first glove!
>Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 10:37:33 -0600 (CST)
>
>That is just fabulous!!! I really like this pattern. It is a copy of
>one of their 1947 sets that they published way back when. The thumb
>is the give away. Isn't that just the funkiest thumb you have ever
>seen?
>
>I love that suede.
>
>What Vogue means by S-M-L is that that our hand from finger tip to
>base of palm is either 6-7-8 inches in length OR it is 6-7-8 inches
>around at the fattest part of our hand. I am betting it is the
>fingertip measure.
>


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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 08:34:04 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket
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That sounds like a good idea, I wish we had folks like that in the
States. Just make sure that whoever is helping you to fit the suit
understands the fitting/style differences between modern and 18th century
suits. You don't want them 'fixing' the fit!


Karen
Seamstrix


On Sat, 4 Feb 2006 13:57:34 +0100 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> Hi all.
> After shopping for this weekend and got back again, i got an idea.
> Ill send my green embroidered suit to the cleaners on monday, and in 
> stead i 
> will embroider new undercuff pieces and replace the old ones.
> This is the only thing that needs to be replaced, and embroidering 
> new 
> undercuff pieces should not take me long time.
> Dont you think this would be fine for a 3 days event if i bring 
> along the 
> green and the blue suit? I also have the velvet mundane suit with 
> the red 
> waistcoat i could use for the daytimes.
> For the other, the Williamsburg suit, i think i could go to 
> proffesional 
> helpers. There are small shops here in Copenhagen who takes 
> commision jobs 
> of sewing jobs like mending or remade old things. If i bring them my 
> mock 
> up, i could have them help me to fit it better..........
> I will do this in the future.........
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Oh yes, do come between April 9 and 13.  Then I could meet you too,  Anne :)




Bjarne

I think I have made this suit twice recently, but I used the pattern 
pieces as a guide only - my customer was a different size - and 
redrafted it to fit. I cut the armholes out when it is on the 
customer, so I know it is comfortable - I know this would be 
difficult for you, but do you have anyone you could trust to help you 
fit a toile?

You could always pop over to London and I could help you fit it! (lol)

Suzi 


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Subject: [h-cost] Dress Form Class: was williamsburg suit
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Clearly I won't be able to make the class, but I am interested, if you 
have a little information, about what materials will be used and what 
the process is.
I wonder if it isn't like the kits you can buy over here with a video...

Sg

Tania Gruning wrote:

>Hi Bjarne.
>  My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is quite expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of yourself. The course itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are around 5-700. My mother has one and it is wonderful.
>   
>  Tania
>  
>

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPOEJJFMAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 08:31:58 -0700
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I thought it might be the edges of a fur lining, peeking out. ;o)
--sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 11:47 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] interpretation of an image


>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I'm interested in the outfit worn by the man on the left in black. I
> have my own ideas about what I see in this drawing, but I'd like to get
> a second opinion of what he is wearing.
>
> http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
>
> How would you interpret the lines on the front of his gown?
>
> The image is by a 19th century artist who did a portfolio of "historical
> costumes", Jan Matejko.
> Dawn
>
> Looks like simplicity pattern 9887 but with straight sleeves.
> The trim is running down the opening and you don't see it past the hands
as
> it looks as if he is pulling the hem up.
> De


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 12:06:46 +0100
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Hi Suzi,
Thanks for the offer :-) well i use the cut of my green suit as a helping 
guide. My green suit is a little later period than this Williamsburg one. I 
find this interresting because it is "oldfashioned " in cut a kind of 
between the full skirted coats and the later narrower. It takes a little 
more space than i reconed, because the back is bias cut like the old ones as 
well.
Problem is that i really dont have time to go slow in
this, got an invitation to a hunting party 24th 25th and 26th ( there wont 
be any hunting, its just a theme) of february. I think perhaps i skip this 
projekt to a later one and then just make a copy of my green coat. Must cut 
out today, so that i can start up the sewing...........

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit


> At 10:19 04/02/2006, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
>>It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
>>Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much as 
>>possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand of 
>>myself.
>>I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say that 
>>"oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong and ment 
>>for theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to look 
>>like these cuts in the book.
>>I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
>>It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........
>
>
> Bjarne
>
> I think I have made this suit twice recently, but I used the pattern 
> pieces as a guide only - my customer was a different size - and redrafted 
> it to fit. I cut the armholes out when it is on the customer, so I know it 
> is comfortable - I know this would be difficult for you, but do you have 
> anyone you could trust to help you fit a toile?
>
> You could always pop over to London and I could help you fit it! (lol)
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII
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I get the David Brown Book Company alerts.  They have The Inventories of
Henry VIII edited by David Starkey for $72!!!!  I paid $170 for my copy and
was happy.  I had seen it at David Brown for $144 and thought it a bargain.
This is simply an unbelievable sale for a huge book stuffed with information
far in excess of the dry listing of what Henry and Edward owned.  It also
has a glossary and dictionary.  My copy bristles with little yellow sticky
notes marking fascinating things like the knitted hose, the hound collars,
the eye glasses.

A truly "Must have" book if you are into things Tudor.

The URL http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/8788 takes you right to
it, bypassing the deadly other sale offerings!


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness


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Oh that's a good idea.  Will have to run that one past my other half.  Thank
you.

On 04/02/06, Purple Elephant <angharad@dodo.com.au> wrote:
>
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 19:31:32 +0000
> > From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
> > To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <37ee9e000602031131hb0e2061x@mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> >
> > I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over
> 3
> > yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28" wide so it's a bit small for a
> tunic
> > for my other half.
> >
> > I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves?
> Any
> > thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for
> a
> > ha'porth of tar' situation.
> >
> > Can anyone think of something that could be made with it? I suppose if
> all
> > else fails I could sell it
> >
> > --
> > Caroline
> >
> Could you make a sleeveless surcoat from it? Men wore those too
> in the 13th century.
>
> Claire
>
> _______________________________________________
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--
Caroline
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings
  query
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At 13:32 04/02/2006, you wrote:
>Hello all
>
>I'm about to make my first crinoline, suitable for
>wearing with a smallish bustle underneath a late
>1860s/early70s gown that I recently bought - it's in a
>bad way so I'm going to copy it as a pattern then try
>and restore it.
>
>Anyway, a lot of the original hoops that I've seen on
>museums are made from a kind of sprung wire that is
>round rather than the flattened steel i've seen in
>various shops. So far I've not found anywhere that
>makes the 'olde' type and am therefore assuming that
>people go with the flattened steel. What I'm aiming to
>do is make a set of women's undergarments (chemise,
>bloomers, corset and crinoline) that can be on display
>so I'd like the crinoline to look as authentic as
>possible. My copy of Period Costume suggests using the
>blind-making tape that you can run the steels through
>and while that is an ACE idea, I'm not convinced it
>will look good when on display.

This 
http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=cage_crinoline_1860.jpg 
is the kind made using the Hunnisett pattern and 
curtain tape, so you can get an idea of what it 
would look like on display. I have had no 
problems using this method for museum use.

Suzi

>Has anyone attempted to be uber-authentic in their
>steel crinoline construction? I'd really appreciate it
>if there were links to pages or sites anyone could
>recommend. Google has not turned up anything suitable
>so far...
>
>Thanks again,
>Katherine, venturing far from her early t-tunic roots.
>
>"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
>annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
>___________________________________________________________
>Yahoo! Photos ­ NEW, now offering a quality 
>print service from just 8p a photo http://uk.photos.yahoo.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Bjarnes old embroidered cuffs..was : thanks for your
 replyes of my embroideries and prices
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So, can you recycle your cuffs into something like a pillow, or little 
purse? 

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Thank you for putting this together.  I was aware of the Max Von Bohen 
source, but not of some of the others.  There are so many silly "truths" 
being strutted about.....it is a good lesson for newbies...do your own 
research. 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.  

I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were made 
from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more (though if 
anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)

Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased it 
in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals, 
and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing and 
the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached it 
using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it was 
for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be 
dragged around a muddy field).

Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many things 
on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I 
never seem to find the time for :-(

Debs




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb  4 11:48:09 2006
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:17:20 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII
In-Reply-To: <HGEEKKPFPKOJBDPGKLOCIEBDMFAA.wandap@hevanet.com>
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On Sat, 4 Feb 2006, Wanda Pease wrote:

> I get the David Brown Book Company alerts.  They have The Inventories
> of Henry VIII edited by David Starkey for $72!!!!  I paid $170 for my
> copy and was happy.  I had seen it at David Brown for $144 and thought
> it a bargain. This is simply an unbelievable sale for a huge book
> stuffed with information far in excess of the dry listing of what
> Henry and Edward owned.  It also has a glossary and dictionary.  My
> copy bristles with little yellow sticky notes marking fascinating
> things like the knitted hose, the hound collars, the eye glasses.

Word on the street is that the long-awaited analysis volume, which was
shelved with Janet Arnold's death (she was doing the costume analysis) is
back in production. I don't know when it will be coming out. I have this
information from one of the scholars who is doing one of the other
sections of analysis.

--Robin


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Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 11:56:04 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII
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Speaking of Janet Arnold-- I know there were other things thet she was
working on that were supposed to be finished by others, including a book on
shiorts and smocks. Does anyone know if it was ever published?
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 12:17 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII



On Sat, 4 Feb 2006, Wanda Pease wrote:

> I get the David Brown Book Company alerts.  They have The Inventories
> of Henry VIII edited by David Starkey for $72!!!!  I paid $170 for my
> copy and was happy.  I had seen it at David Brown for $144 and thought
> it a bargain. This is simply an unbelievable sale for a huge book
> stuffed with information far in excess of the dry listing of what
> Henry and Edward owned.  It also has a glossary and dictionary.  My
> copy bristles with little yellow sticky notes marking fascinating
> things like the knitted hose, the hound collars, the eye glasses.

Word on the street is that the long-awaited analysis volume, which was
shelved with Janet Arnold's death (she was doing the costume analysis) is
back in production. I don't know when it will be coming out. I have this
information from one of the scholars who is doing one of the other
sections of analysis.

--Robin


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb  4 12:08:30 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarnes old embroidered cuffs..was : thanks for your
	replyes of my embroideries and prices
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 18:01:39 +0100
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Hi Saragrace.
I would have to cut away the underside cuff because it is really not a 
pretty sight, but well some kind of it could, perhaps one of these regency 
purces wich was recykled from embroidered waistcoats.
I made the cuff in one piece, not two...........

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 4:21 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Bjarnes old embroidered cuffs..was : thanks for your 
replyes of my embroideries and prices


> So, can you recycle your cuffs into something like a pillow, or little 
> purse?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII
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At 16:56 04/02/2006, you wrote:
>Speaking of Janet Arnold-- I know there were other things thet she was
>working on that were supposed to be finished by others, including a book on
>shiorts and smocks. Does anyone know if it was ever published?
>Monica
>

No, this has not been published, and from what I can gather, no-one 
seems able to give me a date for publication. Janet was on the 4th 
draft when she died, so I would not have thought there was a lot to 
do, as she had done all the drawings, or so she told me.

Suzi

>On Sat, 4 Feb 2006, Wanda Pease wrote:
>
> > I get the David Brown Book Company alerts.  They have The Inventories
> > of Henry VIII edited by David Starkey for $72!!!!  I paid $170 for my
> > copy and was happy.  I had seen it at David Brown for $144 and thought
> > it a bargain. This is simply an unbelievable sale for a huge book
> > stuffed with information far in excess of the dry listing of what
> > Henry and Edward owned.  It also has a glossary and dictionary.  My
> > copy bristles with little yellow sticky notes marking fascinating
> > things like the knitted hose, the hound collars, the eye glasses.
>
>Word on the street is that the long-awaited analysis volume, which was
>shelved with Janet Arnold's death (she was doing the costume analysis) is
>back in production. I don't know when it will be coming out. I have this
>information from one of the scholars who is doing one of the other
>sections of analysis.
>
>--Robin
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 09:34:12 -0800 (PST)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Moda a Firenze
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
In-Reply-To: <003d01c62925$e455e100$905083d1@rmitchellras>
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And I'll also vouch for Hedgehog Handworks!! *Very* reliable---and *very* helpful.I've known and worked with them , Joady and Colin, for 20 plus years. I also get most of my metal thread embroidery supplies for my classes from them:)
  Kathryn

Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
  They are Wonderfully reliable! Have been ordering from them for about 10
years!

Besides Lacis, they(she) have been offering all the specialty tools and
threads, besides books and manuals that anyone could want for all textile
arts for a very long time. Lots of personal attention for your wants and
wishes.

(Unsolicited comments!) Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: 
To: 
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 2:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Moda a Firenze


> I bought my copy of _Moda a Firenze_ from Lacis (http://www.lacis.com/) in
Berkeley CA, but I have heard they ran out... you could call and see if they
got more in, as my info is a month old.
>
> Yesterday I noticed that Hedgehog Handworks
(http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT6001.shtml) is selling it on
line. (I've never ordered from them on-line, so I don't know how reliable
they are).
>
> You can also order directly from the Museum, but they want payment in
Italian currency (and no credit cards) which I found problematic.
> -sunny
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 18:07:26 +0000
From: rwfranz <rwfranz@hotpop.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Form Class: was williamsburg suit
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Such as http://www.mytwindressforms.com/how.htm ?

Roger

WickedFrau wrote:

> Clearly I won't be able to make the class, but I am interested, if you 
> have a little information, about what materials will be used and what 
> the process is.
> I wonder if it isn't like the kits you can buy over here with a video...
>
> Tania Gruning wrote:
>
>> Hi Bjarne.
>>  My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is 
>> quite expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of 
>> yourself. The course itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are 
>> around 5-700. My mother has one and it is wonderful. 
>
>
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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 14:51:46 -0400
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It will have a bit of a modern look, because of our modern bodies, but if 
you try to cut the back narrow, the shoulder seam to the back, the shoulders 
as narrow as possible, and the armhole high, you should still have the 
'look' you are trying to achieve.

I spoke with the other professor this morning about your dilema, he felt the 
same way I did...and it seems, many others, that you can't get a good fit by 
scaling up historical garments, we are built differently.

The only other thing I could suggest, as it worked for a college of mine, is 
to practice the movements and excercises of the period.  Mark taught 
Victorian period calesthenics for a historic site here in the city. When I 
went to create a new doublet for him, I found that the shape of his body 
pattern fit exactly like the period draft! It was exciting for both of us to 
see the way we move in different ways from our historical counterparts.

Good luck on the new draft!

Kelly in Nova Scotia



"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100
>
>Hi,
>Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
>It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
>Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much as 
>possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand of 
>myself.
>I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say that 
>"oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong and ment 
>for theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to look like 
>these cuts in the book.
>I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
>It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Fitting, was: williamsburg jacket
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> That sounds like a good idea, I wish we had folks like that in the
> States. Just make sure that whoever is helping you to fit the suit
> understands the fitting/style differences between modern and
> 18th century suits. You don't want them 'fixing' the fit!

     We do have people like that!  Many drycleaners offer mending,
reweaving, tailoring, etc.

     I agree with your warning about "fixing the fit".  If someone is
trained for 21stC fit, they need to know where the fit is different.

     I've had good luck with friends who are not necessarily experts, but
can follow instructions.  And not stick pins in me.  :-)  The les
opinionated someone is about the project, the more likely they will
be able to do what you want.

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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket
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Hi again Bjarne!
Take the period draft and the portrait you want to use as you inspiration 
with you when you go to the dressmakers or tailors...this will help them to 
help you with cut.  It's always better to have someone else do the fitting 
for you...I'm at this stage almost now, I will soon have the petticoat done 
and will be ready to fit the doublet.  I'm going to do the draft for the 
doublet, make a mock up and have Robert fit it on me.  Then I know it will 
fit, and all I'll have to do is stand in the mirror!

Good luck, we want to see pictures!

Oh and I think two suits over three days will be fine, paack lots of changes 
of linens(shirts and such) And you should be fine.  I usually bring three 
times the linen I think I'll need and half the dresses.

Kelly

"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus


There are small shops here in Copenhagen who
>takes commision jobs of sewing jobs like mending or remade old things. If i 
>bring them my mock up, i could have them help me to fit it better..........
>I will do this in the future.........
>
>Bjarne


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Williamsburg suit.
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Hi again,
I think i have gotten the best of help i can get from Ian the Staymaker. He 
offered me to help me draft a pattern propperly :-)
So i can relax for the time being.
I really like that Williamsburg Suit, it is very nice, and would be lovely 
if i succed in making it for myself. Ian is the best of help i could get.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] another question,
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Status: RO

Sorry i keep you buisy. but i was thinking also about making the trimming 
for a tricorne. Make it in gold bobbin lace. I have some lovely thick gold 
gimp i could use.
Does any of you have any good ideas i could do with the ends of the bobbin 
lace. I cant sew away all the threads so i get an invisible joint. What 
could i place at the joint to hide it? A button? Would it be two much to 
make a looped lace flower?
Any idears would be greatfull apreciated!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
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If it's the hard, tight-woven stuff, make hoods for you and yours.  It's 
as waterproof as anything.

Jean


Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com> wrote
>I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over 3
>yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28" wide so it's a bit small for a tunic
>for my other half.
>
>I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves? Any
>thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for a
>ha'porth of tar' situation.
>
>Can anyone think of something that could be made with it? I suppose if all
>else fails I could sell it
>
>--
>Caroline
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] posture and cut, was williamsburg suit
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The cut of clothes seems to be still moving (not surprising really..)  I 
would say my husband and I both have pretty good posture, and recently 
we have both found that shirts or blouses from Next are too narrow 
across the front and too wide across the back.  If we stand normally 
they strain at the buttons - if we slump our shoulders a little they fit 
better!  Only from the one shop, so far, but Next must think this is the 
shape of the modern torso.

Are there any other periods when you find a wider back and narrower 
front? We know fashion is cyclical - waistlines go up and down, 
shoulders and hips go out and in - do shoulders go forward and back as 
well?

Jean



Kelly Grant <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com> wrote
>It will have a bit of a modern look, because of our modern bodies, but 
>if you try to cut the back narrow, the shoulder seam to the back, the 
>shoulders as narrow as possible, and the armhole high, you should still 
>have the 'look' you are trying to achieve.
>
>I spoke with the other professor this morning about your dilema, he 
>felt the same way I did...and it seems, many others, that you can't get 
>a good fit by scaling up historical garments, we are built differently.
>
>The only other thing I could suggest, as it worked for a college of 
>mine, is to practice the movements and excercises of the period.  Mark 
>taught Victorian period calesthenics for a historic site here in the 
>city. When I went to create a new doublet for him, I found that the 
>shape of his body pattern fit exactly like the period draft! It was 
>exciting for both of us to see the way we move in different ways from 
>our historical counterparts.
>
>Good luck on the new draft!
>
>Kelly in Nova Scotia
>
>
>
>"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, 
>faced with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers 
>in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, 
>despite your fears"
>Caius Merlyn Britannicus
>
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100
>>
>>Hi,
>>Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
>>It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
>>Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as 
>>much as possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a 
>>dress stand of myself.
>>I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say 
>>that "oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong 
>>and ment for theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends 
>>up to look like these cuts in the book.
>>I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
>>It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........
>>
>>Bjarne
>>
>>
>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 20:17:01 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fw: [h-cost] Sees
References: <039101c628c3$e3ce9c20$0802a8c0@DGKQ5981>
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Status: RO

And Barbie appears to be wearing black court shoes (pumps) rather than 
white trainers, which also helps!

Jean

Lori Alston <asl@iw.net> wrote
>http://www.wweek.com/html/lifefeature112499.html
>
>Second one down in black and white you can see the big bow...
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6031569409&category=15953
>Barbire in a uniform this one fits better on Barbie then they do in 
>real life behind the counter
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenda Robinson" 
><glendarob@exemail.com.au>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:02 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sees
>
>
>> I've seen worse, Darrell Lea in Australia used to have their shop 
>>assistants in a large shapeless shift with a huge floppy bow about the 
>>same place as this uniform. Shocking! Unfortunately, I can't find a 
>>photo of these on the net. Anyone else in OZ have any pics?
>>
>> Glenda.
>>
>> , but the 20th century
>>>> isn't exactly my area of costuming interest...
>>>
>>> I'd say early tacky or late dowdy ;-)  Seriously though, I've seen 
>>>some hideous work uniforms but I think Sees is a real leader here. 
>>>Fortunately their candy is wonderful and they're not selling their 
>>>uniforms...those poor ladies...
>>>
>>> Julie
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] posture and cut, was williamsburg suit
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Hi Jean,
Yes i have often wondered this two, and this about narrow back was that a 
renaissance "thing" two?
There also is the 1625-50 "thing" to bend your back so that your belly goes 
out. This is both sexes..............

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 9:13 PM
Subject: [h-cost] posture and cut, was williamsburg suit


> The cut of clothes seems to be still moving (not surprising really..)  I 
> would say my husband and I both have pretty good posture, and recently we 
> have both found that shirts or blouses from Next are too narrow across the 
> front and too wide across the back.  If we stand normally they strain at 
> the buttons - if we slump our shoulders a little they fit better!  Only 
> from the one shop, so far, but Next must think this is the shape of the 
> modern torso.
>
> Are there any other periods when you find a wider back and narrower front? 
> We know fashion is cyclical - waistlines go up and down, shoulders and 
> hips go out and in - do shoulders go forward and back as well?
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Kelly Grant <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com> wrote
>>It will have a bit of a modern look, because of our modern bodies, but if 
>>you try to cut the back narrow, the shoulder seam to the back, the 
>>shoulders as narrow as possible, and the armhole high, you should still 
>>have the 'look' you are trying to achieve.
>>
>>I spoke with the other professor this morning about your dilema, he felt 
>>the same way I did...and it seems, many others, that you can't get a good 
>>fit by scaling up historical garments, we are built differently.
>>
>>The only other thing I could suggest, as it worked for a college of mine, 
>>is to practice the movements and excercises of the period.  Mark taught 
>>Victorian period calesthenics for a historic site here in the city. When I 
>>went to create a new doublet for him, I found that the shape of his body 
>>pattern fit exactly like the period draft! It was exciting for both of us 
>>to see the way we move in different ways from our historical counterparts.
>>
>>Good luck on the new draft!
>>
>>Kelly in Nova Scotia
>>
>>
>>
>>"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
>>with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in 
>>advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite 
>>your fears"
>>Caius Merlyn Britannicus
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>>>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100
>>>
>>>Hi,
>>>Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
>>>It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
>>>Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much 
>>>as possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand 
>>>of myself.
>>>I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say 
>>>that "oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong and 
>>>ment for theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to 
>>>look like these cuts in the book.
>>>I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is 
>>>impossible..........
>>>It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........
>>>
>>>Bjarne
>>>
>>>
>>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>>
>>>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>>
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>h-costume mailing list
>>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Bad, Bad, Bad Wanda!  Thank you! 
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Subject: [h-cost] Lacis & slate frames {was Moda a Firenze}
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At 04:56 PM 2/3/2006, you wrote:
>Besides Lacis, they(she) have been offering all the specialty tools and
>threads, besides books and manuals that anyone could want for all textile
>arts for a very long time.  Lots of personal attention for your wants and
>wishes.


I once thought that way about Lacis carrying every textile art thing I 
could imagine until recently.

I was hoping they would have a slate/peg frame for embroidery (the old 
fashion kind of embroidery frame, found in the UK, but not commonly found 
in the States). I've asked via email about one, and Lacis never responded. 
A friend asked them in person when he visited the store, and they didn't 
know what it was. I was surprised since I figured they, of all the stores 
I've known in California, would know what one was and would have one in stock.

Not even Hedgehog Handworks has them (at least not online, and they also 
didn't respond to e-mail). I've only found one US site that carry them, and 
one other site that claims it will in the future. Both are on the east coast.

Kimiko
Fresno, CA, USA


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Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 12:58:45 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
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At 06:23 PM 2/3/2006, you wrote:
>I'm interested in the outfit worn by the man on the left in black. I have 
>my own ideas about what I see in this drawing, but I'd like to get a 
>second opinion of what he is wearing.
>
>http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
>
>How would you interpret the lines on the front of his gown?
>
>The image is by a 19th century artist who did a portfolio of "historical 
>costumes", Jan Matejko.
>
>
>Dawn


It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the 
upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the 
shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not positive 
if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.

Kimiko

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Subject: [h-cost] Oseberg textiles
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I remember hearing a rumor that the volume 4 (textile finds) of 
Osebergfundet was written but never published.. does anyone know the status 
of that project?

Beth

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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 22:05:21 +0000
From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oseberg textiles
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As volume 5 was published in 1919 - I doubt anyone is alive who had any hand
in volume 4.  I would sugest contacting Oldsaksamling University, Oslo to
see if there is any manscript survives.


On 04/02/06, Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net> wrote:
>
> I remember hearing a rumor that the volume 4 (textile finds) of
> Osebergfundet was written but never published.. does anyone know the
> status
> of that project?
>
> Beth
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



--
Caroline
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Caroline wrote:
> As volume 5 was published in 1919 - I doubt anyone is alive who had any hand
> in volume 4.  I would sugest contacting Oldsaksamling University, Oslo to
> see if there is any manscript survives.
> 
>
	ah but volumes 1-3 & 5 were published as you said, but volume 4 was 
never published! there's been that rumour that it's coming out for quite 
a while - not a clue on reality though.

	-Judy Mitchell
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
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On Sat, 4 Feb 2006, Kimiko Small wrote:

> At 06:23 PM 2/3/2006, you wrote:
> >I'm interested in the outfit worn by the man on the left in black. I have 
> >my own ideas about what I see in this drawing, but I'd like to get a 
> >second opinion of what he is wearing.
> >
> >http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
> >
> >How would you interpret the lines on the front of his gown?
> >
> >The image is by a 19th century artist who did a portfolio of "historical 
> >costumes", Jan Matejko.
> 
> It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for
> the upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since
> the shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not
> positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.

Or, equally likely, the original artwork had shadows, and the artist
didn't understand what he was looking at, and rendered them as lines that
might have been (in his impression) seams or trim or a separate overlayer.
It's anyone's guess what the 19th-century artist thought it was, and in
any case, that probably has little to do with what was actually done
historically.

--Robin

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From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<6.2.3.4.0.20060204171854.01dc2148@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 19:09:30 -0800
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Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the 
depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a 
production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era 
feel, although the show is not actually set in any time period.  (It's 
actually the future, I believe).

I did a few cursory net searches without much luck, but thought perhaps 
someone already had some sourcing and could save me some time for my 
inspiration.

As always, thanks in advance.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII
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Wanda Pease wrote:


> This is simply an unbelievable sale for a huge book stuffed with information
> far in excess of the dry listing of what Henry and Edward owned.  It also
> has a glossary and dictionary.  My copy bristles with little yellow sticky
> notes marking fascinating things like the knitted hose, the hound collars,
> the eye glasses.

Is it illustrated at all or is it simply text?



Dawn


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Kimiko Small wrote:

>> http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
>>
> 
> It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the 
> upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the 
> shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not 
> positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.
> 


It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's 
clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a 
yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part 
is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.

Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's....


Dawn


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII
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>
> Is it illustrated at all or is it simply text?
>
>
>
> Dawn

All Text, but there is the promise of an illustrated second volume this
sometime "real soon" now.  Things are described in such a way, that if you
have much experience with period items you will have little trouble
envisioning them.  Of course, for me the written word translates into a
vision in my head.  I 'see' the story a book is telling.  It makes it hard
when my favorites are made into movies and the characters don't look a thing
like I imagine them!

Wanda
> Wanda Pease wrote:
>


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 23:00:19 -0800
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I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in measuring
tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the manufacturer.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 8:39 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query


I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.  

I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were made 
from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
(though if 
anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)

Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
it 
in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals,

and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
and 
the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached it 
using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it
was 
for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be 
dragged around a muddy field).

Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many things 
on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I 
never seem to find the time for :-(

Debs




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>From the head gear on the man behind the guy in black, you are probably
looking at Germanic.
Maybe coat flaps (fur lined) or "collar" .
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/durer/p-durer21.htm
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/durer/p-durer9.htm
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/durer/p-durer25.htm
Upper right, pink and black striped sleeves (which is probably Durer)
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/durer/p-durer59.htm
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/durer/p-durer47.htm

-----Original Message-----
It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's
clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a
yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part
is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.

Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's....


Dawn


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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Form Class: was williamsburg suit
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One of the problems with the papertape and ducttape forms is that they are not really corrected after being made. Standing up for 2 hours or so, getting glued up with automatically make you slouch, so what you get is a dressform with a bad posture ;-)
   
  The teacher is using some special strong paper and glue to get the form, then the form is cut up and corrected to your normal bodyshape, a thin layer of padding is put on, and a fabric cover is made. What you get is an exact copy of yourself, minus the slouching.
  Oh, those 3000 danish kr is a long weekend course Friday noon to Monday night with overnight stay and food.
  Tania

WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
  Clearly I won't be able to make the class, but I am interested, if you 
have a little information, about what materials will be used and what 
the process is.
I wonder if it isn't like the kits you can buy over here with a video...

Sg

Tania Gruning wrote:

>Hi Bjarne.
> My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is quite expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of yourself. The course itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are around 5-700. My mother has one and it is wonderful.
> 
> Tania
> 
>

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From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
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I know vol 4 was never published.  If it is going to be published only Oslo
University would know.  I recently got some unpublished text from Perth (I
still had to pay - and I cannot publish it) on medieval textiles excavated
in the  80's.

The text for Osbergfundet 4 may also be available in this form.  Write to
them and ask.

On 05/02/06, Judy Mitchell <judymitch@theoldforest.net> wrote:
>
> Caroline wrote:
> > As volume 5 was published in 1919 - I doubt anyone is alive who had any
> hand
> > in volume 4.  I would sugest contacting Oldsaksamling University, Oslo
> to
> > see if there is any manscript survives.
> >
> >
>         ah but volumes 1-3 & 5 were published as you said, but volume 4
> was
> never published! there's been that rumour that it's coming out for quite
> a while - not a clue on reality though.
>
>         -Judy Mitchell
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 08:16:11 -0500
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Here's a wild guess.
The answer might  be cued from the piece of paper in his hand.  Since the
rest of the people in the scene seem to be laborers, the man in the robe
could be what we might now call a foreman of some sort.  The part of the
garment that has the effect of a yoke appears to me to be separate add-on.
There seem to be no gather as we see in later images of the robes that
became academic or judicial garb of honor.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image


> Kimiko Small wrote:
>
> >> http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
> >>
> >
> > It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the
> > upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the
> > shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not
> > positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.
> >
>
>
> It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's
> clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a
> yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part
> is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.
>
> Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's....
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <001501c62a21$d3550690$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 08:36:58 -0500
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Status: RO

Wouldn't that be too flimsy?  Seems to me that the weight of any garment
would crush the extension.  I have read somewhere (Godey's) that piano wire
was one of the reliable wires for making these cages.  I have at least three
crins of this period and the wire in them is not quite tubular (think
'linguini and not speggitti).It is flexable but is not bent easily. The
originals were fiber cased. One I use for contemporary use ad shed most of
this covering in it's long history.  I recovered it with white florist tape.
This allows it to move freely in its traces and retards the rusting of the
steel. Another one has had the vertical tapes replaced with drapery
header.  I found one that was the width of the original and had the neat
tracers that accommodated the wire exactly.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 2:00 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings
query


> I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in
measuring
> tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the
manufacturer.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 8:39 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
>
>
> I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.
>
> I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were made
> from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
> (though if
> anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)
>
> Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
> it
> in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the
verticals,
>
> and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
> and
> the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached
it
> using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it
> was
> for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be
> dragged around a muddy field).
>
> Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many
things
> on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I
> never seem to find the time for :-(
>
> Debs
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 09:15:23 -0500
From: Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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Status: RO

Farthingale's has "crin steel" a "Thread Covered Hoop Steel", I've
never tried it but it looks much like what is in original cage hoops,
don't know about the weight/stiffness.  I've wanted to try it for a
cage hoop or bustle if my budget ever allows.

http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php

Text from their website:

Hoop Steel/Crin Steel/Tutu Steel

"We have several weights of hoop steel and you will likely be able to
find one to suit your purpose. One style is "thread covered", it can
be bent but not easily, comes in 3 widths and two colours; the
narrowest is known as tutu steel as it is used in tutus for partner
work. The second type of steel is "plastic coated" and this comes in
varying widths and weights. Both require tin snips to cut."

Greengerg and Hammer sells bons casing to fit 1/4" and 1/2 inch bones,
this could alaso be used to construct a cage hoop or bustle.  And it's
cotton.  I also use this for corset bone casings.

http://www.greenberg-hammer.com/store.asp?ItemID=1340

Katy

On 2/5/06, Sharon at Collierfam.com <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in measuring
> tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the manufacturer.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 8:39 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
>
>
> I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.
>
> I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were made
> from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
> (though if
> anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)
>
> Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
> it
> in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals,
>
> and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
> and
> the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached it
> using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it
> was
> for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be
> dragged around a muddy field).
>
> Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many things
> on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I
> never seem to find the time for :-(
>
> Debs
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
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It looks to me like an add-on, too--an applied exaggerated collar (fur?), most likely, considering how well it fits the neck edge of the gown. (Those points would have been the envy of Carnaby Street back in the 'Sixties!) It doesn't look like a turn-back of the gown's natural edge.
I initially thought of a separate mini-surplice-like thing, but how it would maintain its shape and also line up along the neck edge I don't know.
I know nothing of this illustrator--did he reliably work from original illustrations such as paintings and illuminations, or was he one of the nineteenth-century fact-plus-imagination types?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
>Sent: Feb 5, 2006 8:16 AM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
>
>Here's a wild guess.
>The answer might  be cued from the piece of paper in his hand.  Since the
>rest of the people in the scene seem to be laborers, the man in the robe
>could be what we might now call a foreman of some sort.  The part of the
>garment that has the effect of a yoke appears to me to be separate add-on.
>There seem to be no gather as we see in later images of the robes that
>became academic or judicial garb of honor.
>
>Kathleen
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 10:26 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
>
>
>> Kimiko Small wrote:
>>
>> >> http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
>> >>
>> >
>> > It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the
>> > upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the
>> > shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not
>> > positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.
>> >
>>
>>
>> It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's
>> clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a
>> yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part
>> is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.
>>
>> Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's....
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>>
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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 11:29:13 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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>I have at least three crins of this period and the wire in them is 
>not quite tubular (think 'linguini and not speggitti).It is flexable 
>but is not bent easily. The originals were fiber cased.

      Needle & Thread in Gettysburg, PA (USA) carries this hooping. 
At least they did some years back when I got it.  They have patterns, 
fabric and supplies for historic reenactors.

      -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
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angela wrote:


> Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the 
> depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a 
> production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era 
> feel,

If what you're looking for is US military uniforms, do an image search at 
www.altavista.com  on "bonus march", which was in 1932, and 1930's + strikes 
and you will get plenty of images of army uniforms.
              -Helen/Aidan 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
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I should have paid more attention to the title, but the search on 1930's 
strikes should also get you pictures of steel and auto workers.
              -Helen/Aidan 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: posture and cut, was williamsburg suit
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I have been watching this topic with interest. Just my uneducated opinion, but I think there are a number of factors at play here.
   
  We are healthier and better fed than our ancestors so yes, our bodies are 'modern' and in many cases lager scaled, but life style has a great deal to do with it as well.
   
  For the most part we are trying to reproduce fashions of the middle and upper classes, whose lifestyle was considerably different than the "working" man. If burly shoulders were an indication of a man that had to labor to eke out a living, then I can see where the fashion would be towards making the silhouette as narrow as possible to indicate that a person did not have to labor for his living. These days a more muscular appearance seems to be favored through all social strata.
   
  Young men from prosperous families in previous eras engaged in 'leisure activities' that required an upright "back straight, shoulders up and square" posture such as horseback riding, fencing, shooting, etc. And young women similarly - I defy anyone to slouch and play the piano well for example.
   
  By comparison, many modern day people drive to work, sit at computers, and for entertainment watch television. Those striving for fitness often work out a gym or health spa which gives a different body structure again than someone whole engages in physical labor for a living.
   
  And, as has been mentioned already, posture was an indicator of social status.
   
  Also, modern medical science and chiropractic support a more natural posture, advocating allowing for the natural curvature of the spine. To me this looks like slouching btw, but it does open the shoulders wider. Just for an experiement and out of curiosity - I had my shoulder width measured while sitting up square and straight and then when slouching - there was a 5" difference in the width of my shoulder measurement!
   
  There are still a wide variety of body types out there. For example, I have a friend who would probably need very little alteration or scaling up for that matter to be fitted well.
   
  Lastly, if the stereotype for physical appearance/stature being related to country or geographical area of origin has any basis in fact, would not the clothing made for an 18th cent. Frenchman, (who were supposedly shorter and smaller in stature), be a bit tight for an 18th cent. contemporary from a different geographical origin?
   
  JMHO
   
  Annette M 
  
 
  Message: 4
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 20:13:25 +0000
From: Jean Waddie 
Subject: [h-cost] posture and cut, was williamsburg suit

The cut of clothes seems to be still moving (not surprising really..) I 
would say my husband and I both have pretty good posture, and recently 
we have both found that shirts or blouses from Next are too narrow 
across the front and too wide across the back. If we stand normally 
they strain at the buttons - if we slump our shoulders a little they fit 
better! Only from the one shop, so far, but Next must think this is the 
shape of the modern torso.

Are there any other periods when you find a wider back and narrower 
front? We know fashion is cyclical - waistlines go up and down, 
shoulders and hips go out and in - do shoulders go forward and back as 
well?

Jean



Kelly Grant wrote
>It will have a bit of a modern look, because of our modern bodies, but 
>if you try to cut the back narrow, the shoulder seam to the back, the 
>shoulders as narrow as possible, and the armhole high, you should still 
>have the 'look' you are trying to achieve.
>
>I spoke with the other professor this morning about your dilema, he 
>felt the same way I did...and it seems, many others, that you can't get 
>a good fit by scaling up historical garments, we are built differently.
>
>The only other thing I could suggest, as it worked for a college of 
>mine, is to practice the movements and excercises of the period. Mark 
>taught Victorian period calesthenics for a historic site here in the 
>city. When I went to create a new doublet for him, I found that the 
>shape of his body pattern fit exactly like the period draft! It was 
>exciting for both of us to see the way we move in different ways from 
>our historical counterparts.
>
>Good luck on the new draft!
>
>Kelly in Nova Scotia
>
>
>
>"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, 
>faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers 
>in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, 
>despite your fears"
>Caius Merlyn Britannicus
>
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
>>Reply-To: Historical Costume 
>>To: 
>>Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100
>>
>>Hi,
>>Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
>>It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
>>Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as 
>>much as possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a 
>>dress stand of myself.
>>I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say 
>>that "oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong 
>>and ment for theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends 
>>up to look like these cuts in the book.
>>I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
>>It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........
>>
>>Bjarne
>>
>>
>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>



Message: 6
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 21:22:27 +0100
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] posture and cut, was williamsburg suit
To: "Historical Costume" 

Hi Jean,
Yes i have often wondered this two, and this about narrow back was that a 
renaissance "thing" two?
There also is the 1625-50 "thing" to bend your back so that your belly goes 
out. This is both sexes..............

Bjarne


			
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Subject: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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In my translation anyway it says...
   
  Clause 35. Let there be one measure......, and one width of cloth whether dyed, russet or halberjet, namely two ells within the selvedges.
   
  Dyed I understand.
   
  Russet? Somehow I don't think this refers to red cloth.
   
  And does anyone know what halberjet is?
   
  These are the only definitions I got when I googled.
   
  Russet- a coarse, home-spun cloth much used by the peasantry. 
  Halberjet- probably a superior type of cloth.   
  Ell- a standard measure of length said to have been based on the length of the right arm of king Henry 1. 
   
  Annette M

		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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In period, russet referred to natural brown wool. By the Elizabethan era
(the one I'm most familiar with), russet cloth had come to
imply/symbolize the honest and sturdy countryman who would wear fabric
made from English wools instead of the foreign silks worn by courtiers.


Karen
Seamstrix



On Sun, 5 Feb 2006 09:08:22 -0800 (PST) Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
writes:
> In my translation anyway it says...
>    
>   Clause 35. Let there be one measure......, and one width of cloth 
> whether dyed, russet or halberjet, namely two ells within the 
> selvedges.
>    
>   Dyed I understand.
>    
>   Russet? Somehow I don't think this refers to red cloth.
>    
>   And does anyone know what halberjet is?
>    
>   These are the only definitions I got when I googled.
>    
>   Russet- a coarse, home-spun cloth much used by the peasantry. 
>   Halberjet- probably a superior type of cloth.   
>   Ell- a standard measure of length said to have been based on the 
> length of the right arm of king Henry 1. 
>    
>   Annette M
> 
>                 
> ---------------------------------
> Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses!
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>> Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the 
>> depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a 
>> production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era 
>> feel,

http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/fsowhome.html


photos from 1935-1945 in color and black and white, searchable to some 
degree.

Denise
Iowa 

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References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10602041116030.5436-100000@shell.nightowl.net><NJEJJAKCDDIJCJLBNKFIEEGICMAA.monicaspence@optonline.net><6.2.3.4.0.20060204171854.01dc2148@127.0.0.1><007c01c62a01$95446820$0701a8c0@lazear1><009f01c62a74$665be830$cc159b04@HELENPINTO>
	<038e01c62a7f$a9d1ccf0$2ad12b42@denise8541f2db>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 12:23:08 -0600
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>
> http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/fsowhome.html
>
>
> photos from 1935-1945 in color and black and white, searchable to some 
> degree.


I should  have added some categories to look under so you don't get 
overwhelmed. The subject heading "laborers" shows men and women in 
depression era clothing. The subject heading "women--employment" shows many 
women in the war era working in factories.  The subject heading "women" has 
many of the war era factory photos, plus many in other settings and time 
frames.

It's a great web site to just cruise around. Nearly every aspect of living 
at the time is depicted in some form or another.

Denise 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
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See if you can find the Time-Life books series of pictoral histories  of the 
different decades.  These books are full of pictures of people in  all walks 
of life.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] slate frames
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Try contact Pastiche:  <pastinc@teleport.com>.

They're a wonderful costuming/needlework/books merchant located in
Portland, OR. They have carried slate frames in the past.

If this e-mail doesn't work, write me off-list and I'll send you their
phone number.

Arlys
Cley@juno.com

> I was hoping they would have a slate/peg frame for embroidery (the 
> old 
> fashion kind of embroidery frame, found in the UK, but not commonly 
> found 
> in the States). I've asked via email about one, and Lacis never 
> responded. 
> A friend asked them in person when he visited the store, and they 
> didn't 
> know what it was. I was surprised since I figured they, of all the 
> stores 
> I've known in California, would know what one was and would have one 
> in stock.

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
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I was seeing the whole thing as Soldiers and Nobles vs. Scholars and
craftsmen. (viz. Might makes right? Early class consciousness?)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lloyd Mitchell
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 7:16 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image

Here's a wild guess.
The answer might  be cued from the piece of paper in his hand.  Since the
rest of the people in the scene seem to be laborers, the man in the robe
could be what we might now call a foreman of some sort.  The part of the
garment that has the effect of a yoke appears to me to be separate add-on.
There seem to be no gather as we see in later images of the robes that
became academic or judicial garb of honor.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image


> Kimiko Small wrote:
>
> >> http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
> >>
> >
> > It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the
> > upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the
> > shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not
> > positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.
> >
>
>
> It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's
> clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a
> yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part
> is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.
>
> Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's....
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Hi,
Not that it is my period, and i dont want to interfer your disgussion, but i 
was thinking about the thin, narrow boning i used from Wissner for my red 
taffeta stays.
This is only 4 mm. wide. Would that be something you could use for a 
crinoline cage? You would have to make many hoops for this, but it surely 
would give it flexibility.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings 
query


> Farthingale's has "crin steel" a "Thread Covered Hoop Steel", I've
> never tried it but it looks much like what is in original cage hoops,
> don't know about the weight/stiffness.  I've wanted to try it for a
> cage hoop or bustle if my budget ever allows.
>
> http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
>
> Text from their website:
>
> Hoop Steel/Crin Steel/Tutu Steel
>
> "We have several weights of hoop steel and you will likely be able to
> find one to suit your purpose. One style is "thread covered", it can
> be bent but not easily, comes in 3 widths and two colours; the
> narrowest is known as tutu steel as it is used in tutus for partner
> work. The second type of steel is "plastic coated" and this comes in
> varying widths and weights. Both require tin snips to cut."
>
> Greengerg and Hammer sells bons casing to fit 1/4" and 1/2 inch bones,
> this could alaso be used to construct a cage hoop or bustle.  And it's
> cotton.  I also use this for corset bone casings.
>
> http://www.greenberg-hammer.com/store.asp?ItemID=1340
>
> Katy
>
> On 2/5/06, Sharon at Collierfam.com <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
>> I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in 
>> measuring
>> tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the 
>> manufacturer.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>> Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
>> Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 8:39 AM
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
>>
>>
>> I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.
>>
>> I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were 
>> made
>> from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
>> (though if
>> anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)
>>
>> Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and 
>> encased
>> it
>> in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the 
>> verticals,
>>
>> and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
>> and
>> the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached 
>> it
>> using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing 
>> (it
>> was
>> for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be
>> dragged around a muddy field).
>>
>> Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many 
>> things
>> on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that 
>> I
>> never seem to find the time for :-(
>>
>> Debs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> --
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 17:21:47 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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At 17:08 05/02/2006, you wrote:
>In my translation anyway it says...
>
>   Clause 35. Let there be one measure......, and one width of cloth 
> whether dyed, russet or halberjet, namely two ells within the selvedges.
>
>   Dyed I understand.
>
>   Russet? Somehow I don't think this refers to red cloth.
>
>   And does anyone know what halberjet is?
>
>   These are the only definitions I got when I googled.
>
>   Russet- a coarse, home-spun cloth much used by the peasantry.

And for livery in Tudor times

>   Halberjet- probably a superior type of cloth.

Sorry, this one passes me by.

>   Ell- a standard measure of length said to have been based on the 
> length of the right arm of king Henry 1.

An ell is (AFAIK) a yard and a quarter, that is 45". (I think there 
is something in Shakespeare about it, possibly in "Comedy of Errors", 
but memory fades with my hair)! (2 ells = 90" - that's a very wide 
width of cloth?)
>
>   Annette M
>
>



>Suzi


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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 14:03:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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> i was thinking about the thin, narrow boning i used from Wissner for my
> red taffeta stays.  This is only 4 mm. wide. Would that be something you
> could use for a crinoline cage? You would have to make many hoops
> for this, but it surely would give it flexibility.

     I think Wissner does make a product of a weight that is good for
hoops.  It's thicker than the corset weight.

     -Carol

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Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 19:13:27 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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At 19:03 05/02/2006, you wrote:
> > i was thinking about the thin, narrow boning i used from Wissner for my
> > red taffeta stays.  This is only 4 mm. wide. Would that be something you
> > could use for a crinoline cage? You would have to make many hoops
> > for this, but it surely would give it flexibility.
>
>      I think Wissner does make a product of a weight that is good for
>hoops.  It's thicker than the corset weight.
>
>      -Carol


The crinoline steel I use is like the stuff they sell at 
Farthingales, and is specifically made for hoops. The cotton covered 
sort, (we have three widths and I use the medium width) will take 
heavy petticoats and skirts and is flexible without collapsing, and 
does not de-form even when you pack it tightly in a suitcase (for 
using in lectures.)

Maybe I've missed the point here, but if the covered steel is what 
was used, on some crinolines, originally, is there any reason to look 
for anything else? I have photos, as I am sure so do other people, of 
cotton covered crinolines in museums, which is why I use that. If you 
use bare steel, you cannot get the original 19th century connectors, 
unless you have them made specially, so it would be a problem to copy 
exactly anyway.

Suzi (rather puzzled)


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: hoop steel...
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At 7:57 AM -0700 2/5/06, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were made
>from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
>(though if
>anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)
>
>Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
>it
>in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals,

Hi
We got some stuff that acted like the old caged hoop I have in an 
airplane/RC hobbiest shop. It was a short (3') length--but was spring 
steel. My DH needed to make a new spring for and old box camera. The 
stuff came in a variety of gauges. I bet you could get it in longer 
lengths from the mill.
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 14:54:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Maybe I've missed the point here, but if the covered steel is what
> was used, on some crinolines, originally, is there any reason to look
> for anything else?

     It may be a matter of availability, depending on where someone lives,
import taxes, etc.  Also when the question was asked originally,
perhaps the poster did not know the "real thing" is available.

     -Carol

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Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 14:02:47 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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Status: RO

I haven't been following this thread, but this sounds very similar to what 
is known as "fish tape" used by electricians to "fish" (pull) a wire 
through a conduit (tubing). These are rolls of spring wire (flat with 
rounded edges) that come in a case with reel in 5'0', 100' & 200' lengths. 
Lightweight 50' rolls available quite inexpensively from tool places like 
Harbor Freight. The heavier professional ones are more expensive. They 
occasionally break under the load than an electrician puts on them.. you 
might find a friendly electrician who'll give you one that has (how I got 
mine).

Beth

>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 23:00:19 -0800
>From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and
>         casings query
>I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in measuring
>tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the manufacturer.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
>I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.
>
>I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were made
>from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
>(though if
>anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)
>
>Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
>it
>in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals,
>
>and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
>and
>the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached it
>using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it
>was
>for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be
>dragged around a muddy field).
>
>Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many things
>on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I
>never seem to find the time for :-(
>
>Debs

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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 14:38:13 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> At 17:08 05/02/2006, you wrote:
> >In my translation anyway it says...
> >
> >   Clause 35. Let there be one measure......, and one width of cloth 
> > whether dyed, russet or halberjet, namely two ells within the selvedges.
> >
> >   Dyed I understand.
> >
> >   Russet? Somehow I don't think this refers to red cloth.

Russet, in this period, means an undyed cloth from black-sheep wool, so
usually brown or grey. The color meaning came much later. I can dig out
lengthy discussion of this from past posts if anyone needs it.

I have a distant memory of a discussion of "hauberject" or a similar word,
on this list, years ago, and remember nothing of value and cannot find it
in my notes.

> An ell is (AFAIK) a yard and a quarter, that is 45". (I think there 
> is something in Shakespeare about it, possibly in "Comedy of Errors", 
> but memory fades with my hair)! (2 ells = 90" - that's a very wide 
> width of cloth?)

Ells vary from one time/place to another, and typically were less than a
yard. Better minds than I have written copious amounts of information on
ell lengths. In a paper I happen to have on my desk this moment about
French textiles from the late 1200s, I see a reference that says 840
Flemish ells equals about 679 Champagne ells equals 640 modern yards -- so
lots of variation here. The author cites her source as John Munro's
article on "Textile Technology," in The Dictionary of the Middle Ages, ed.
Joseph R. Strayer (New York: Scribner, 1988), vol. 11, p. 704. Munro has
done a great deal with textile economics, and probably has quite a number
of discussions of ells in various places and times.

--Robin


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Status: RO

Thank you. I'll give it a try.

Beth

At 08:57 AM 2/5/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 09:53:38 +0000
>From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oseberg textiles
>
>I know vol 4 was never published.  If it is going to be published only Oslo
>University would know.  I recently got some unpublished text from Perth (I
>still had to pay - and I cannot publish it) on medieval textiles excavated
>in the  80's.
>
>The text for Osbergfundet 4 may also be available in this form.  Write to
>them and ask.

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	Sun, 05 Feb 2006 16:21:21 EST
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 16:21:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Susan Carroll-Clark <nicolaa@rogers.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Archaeological citation
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Greetings--

I'm working on a group research project with several
other folks, and we're trying to track down a more
in-depth citation for some information.

It's from the following book:
Weinstein, Rosemary.  "Tudor London."  London:  Museum
of London, 1994
ISBN:  0-11-290495-5

The book says this find came from a swampy area in
London--Moorfield, just north of the city wall.

The find consisted of:
a leather ankle boot
child's choe
knitted woollen cap
silk smocking on a woollen cloth (looks like a sleeve
to me)
coarse woollen sleeve
child's sock
c. 1530-90

The book doesn't cite any publication info for the
find.  Anyone got any ideas where we might find it?

Susan

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	Sun, 05 Feb 2006 21:23:58 GMT
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 21:23:58 +0000 (GMT)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Thanks for all the help - 

Suzi - thanks for the link to your site: that
crinoline is certainly the shape and style I am going
for and if you've not had any quibbles from museums,
there's no reason why I should from general M.o.t.Ps

Deb, 
I didn't see your reply before it was included in a
message so my digest is still skipping but yes, I
think I'll go with Suzi's suggestion initially. I
found some 'roman blind' tape which would do the job
so I just need to check it will take the width of
steel - I may order narrower steel so it can be
enclosed in a tape (at least that way the ends will
look neater).  I found some rather coarse red twill
tape which looks like a narrow version of the stuff
used on this crinoline
http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/11182-popup.html

The measuring tape steel is (over here in the UK) too
wide and does that weird and painful crinkling thing
when I try and measure stuff... not sure I want it
near my legs, drawers or not! I think the piano cables
are about the right size but I'll have to talk to a
friend who owns one first.

Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel'
looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm
happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures
as close as they need to be to be sure.
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php

I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I
can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who
can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who
may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-)

Thanks again - I'll be sure to post a link to a photo
when it's done!

Yours gratefully,
Katherine



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Hello! Could someone please send me the digest 107? I
can't find it in my in-box and Im worried I missed a
message for me.
Ta very much!

Katherine


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-cost digest 107
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On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, katherine sanders wrote:

> Hello! Could someone please send me the digest 107? I
> can't find it in my in-box and Im worried I missed a
> message for me.

Try checking recent messages at these sites:

http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/maillist.html

http://news.gmane.org/gmane.culture.studies.history.costume

--Robin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and
In-Reply-To: <20060205212358.10691.qmail@web25715.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
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At 21:23 05/02/2006, you wrote:
>Thanks for all the help -
>
>Suzi - thanks for the link to your site: that
>crinoline is certainly the shape and style I am going
>for and if you've not had any quibbles from museums,
>there's no reason why I should from general M.o.t.Ps

Katherine

Talk to the people at the address I gave you - you will find they do 
different widths of crinoline steel, and strong twill tape. (E-mail 
me for my phone number and I can talk you through it if you want - I 
make hoops of all shapes and sizes all the time.)


>Deb,
>I didn't see your reply before it was included in a
>message so my digest is still skipping but yes, I
>think I'll go with Suzi's suggestion initially. I
>found some 'roman blind' tape which would do the job
>so I just need to check it will take the width of
>steel - I may order narrower steel so it can be
>enclosed in a tape (at least that way the ends will
>look neater).  I found some rather coarse red twill
>tape which looks like a narrow version of the stuff
>used on this crinoline
>http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/11182-popup.html
>
>The measuring tape steel is (over here in the UK) too
>wide and does that weird and painful crinkling thing
>when I try and measure stuff... not sure I want it
>near my legs, drawers or not! I think the piano cables
>are about the right size but I'll have to talk to a
>friend who owns one first.
>
>Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel'
>looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm
>happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures
>as close as they need to be to be sure.
>http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
>
>I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I
>can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who
>can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who
>may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-)
>
>Thanks again - I'll be sure to post a link to a photo
>when it's done!
>
>Yours gratefully,
>Katherine
>
>
>
>"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
>annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
>___________________________________________________________
>NEW Yahoo! Cars - sell your car and browse thousands of new and used 
>cars online! http://uk.cars.yahoo.com/
>_______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Archaeological citation
In-Reply-To: <20060205212121.59026.qmail@web88208.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
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At 21:21 05/02/2006, you wrote:
>Greetings--
>
>I'm working on a group research project with several
>other folks, and we're trying to track down a more
>in-depth citation for some information.
>
>It's from the following book:
>Weinstein, Rosemary.  "Tudor London."  London:  Museum
>of London, 1994
>ISBN:  0-11-290495-5
>
>The book says this find came from a swampy area in
>London--Moorfield, just north of the city wall.
>
>The find consisted of:
>a leather ankle boot
>child's choe
>knitted woollen cap
>silk smocking on a woollen cloth (looks like a sleeve
>to me)
>coarse woollen sleeve
>child's sock
>c. 1530-90
>
>The book doesn't cite any publication info for the
>find.  Anyone got any ideas where we might find it?


I suggest you contact the Museum itself

Department of Early London History and Collections
Museum of London
150 London Wall
London. EC2Y 5HN
Tel: 020 7814 5732
Fax: 020 7600 1058

www.museumoflondon.org.uk

Suzi



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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear/Urinetown
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What is this...the year for depression era Urinetown???We're doing the same 
sho for the final one of the season...we'll get the scetches next week!
Kelly


"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 19:09:30 -0800
>
>Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the 
>depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a 
>production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era 
>feel, although the show is not actually set in any time period.  (It's 
>actually the future, I believe).
>
>I did a few cursory net searches without much luck, but thought perhaps 
>someone already had some sourcing and could save me some time for my 
>inspiration.
>
>As always, thanks in advance.
>
>angela
>+++++
>Angela F. Lazear
>Cabbage Rose Costumes
>www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
>Theatrical Costume Design
>
>"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
>be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
>and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
>be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
>W. Shakespeare
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 19:44:01 -0500
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Status: RO

This is the kind of tape that I have used very successfully for making cage
hoops.  Good luck with your project.  The tape sure beats having to make
riders of other tape or thread overlays and the fact that it is uniform in
its pockets gives a more professional construction that will stand the
motion of the cage and the garments that  will be supported.

Kathleen


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "katherine sanders" <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 4:23 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and


> Thanks for all the help -
>
> Suzi - thanks for the link to your site: that
> crinoline is certainly the shape and style I am going
> for and if you've not had any quibbles from museums,
> there's no reason why I should from general M.o.t.Ps
>
> Deb,
> I didn't see your reply before it was included in a
> message so my digest is still skipping but yes, I
> think I'll go with Suzi's suggestion initially. I
> found some 'roman blind' tape which would do the job
> so I just need to check it will take the width of
> steel - I may order narrower steel so it can be
> enclosed in a tape (at least that way the ends will
> look neater).  I found some rather coarse red twill
> tape which looks like a narrow version of the stuff
> used on this crinoline
> http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/11182-popup.html
>
> The measuring tape steel is (over here in the UK) too
> wide and does that weird and painful crinkling thing
> when I try and measure stuff... not sure I want it
> near my legs, drawers or not! I think the piano cables
> are about the right size but I'll have to talk to a
> friend who owns one first.
>
> Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel'
> looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm
> happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures
> as close as they need to be to be sure.
> http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
>
> I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I
> can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who
> can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who
> may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-)
>
> Thanks again - I'll be sure to post a link to a photo
> when it's done!
>
> Yours gratefully,
> Katherine
>
>
>
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> NEW Yahoo! Cars - sell your car and browse thousands of new and used cars
online! http://uk.cars.yahoo.com/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:

> Farthingale's has "crin steel" a "Thread Covered
> Hoop Steel", I've
> never tried it but it looks much like what is in
> original cage hoops,
> don't know about the weight/stiffness.  I've wanted
> to try it for a
> cage hoop or bustle if my budget ever allows.
> 
> http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
> --
> Katy Bishop

You will certainly get good service if/when you do
order from her, even with the border crossing to cause
problems.  She is also fascinated by what creations
her clients come up with.

Ann in CT

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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 18:48:31 -0800
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Subject: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat
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I'm going to try and make a Tudor Style tall hat with the pleated crown.  I
went to the local GoodWill and they had a hat that fitted perfectly of 100%
wool felt. Problem is that it is a domed crown rather than square.  Is there
a way to steam that crown and get it fairly fat?

I intend to play with an thick interlining that I have to get the brim
shape, then I'll cut the actual hat brim.

Does this sound reasonable, or does it sound like it will be more work than
simply creating the under-structure out the interfacing and paper and going
from there?


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] pants
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 22:39:45 -0800
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Pants... You mean bloomers like they might have worn bicycling or underwear
type pants?

Wanda

> -----Orig
>
>
> Does anybody have a pattern for 19th century women's pants? Thanks
>
>


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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and
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<--- katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
<
<Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel'
<looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm
<happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures
<as close as they need to be to be sure.
<http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
<
<I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I
<can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who
<can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who
<may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-)
<
<Thanks again - I'll be sure to post a link to a photo
<when it's done!
<
<Yours gratefully,
<Katherine

Farthingales has NO problem with shipping things to overseas customers.

I bought an entire roll ( 100m ) of this: Plastic Coated Hoop Steel/Crin Steel 50-8406-06  from them about 5 years ago, with no problems. I did make the order over the phone, though, because of the weight and international postage/shipping issue. 

Very helpful people.

Joannah

*Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty.*


		


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Subject: [h-cost] mending techniques
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Hello,
I would be very gratefull for advice as to how to sort out my 1670 midwives 
clothing which I've just retrieved from storage to discover a fair bit of 
moth damage. The whole set, boddice, and two pleated skirts all wool lined 
with linen ,the design based on Vermeer's mikmaid has to be remade anyway as 
I've dropped from english size 20 to a 10. Re-making the kit is no problem 
but how should I repair the moth holes? I can darn and patch.I have lovely 
woolen yarn in a matching colour for darning and also scraps of the cloth 
for patching. Should I use a mix of darns and patches? I'm hoping to make 
the repairs part of the costume part of my presentation. My character is a 
respectable midwife, licesnsed by the Bishop, well repected etc etc but not 
hugely wealthy.Any ideas gratefully recieved.
Not downhearted about this as the kit is beggining to look like real 
clothing as oppossed to a costume, and making kit smaller is easier than 
making it bigger.
sorry about my speelling mistakes.

regards
Joy 

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 09:23:11 -0400
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If you have a wool hat, it's incredibly easy to steam it to the shape you 
want!  You need to find something that will be a good shape for a block, 
like a flower pot. Make sure it's a good size to match your head size. 
Remove all the addition hat stuff from inside the felt, like the hat band 
and such.  Then using you kettle, steam the inside of the felt and then pull 
it down over the block. Keep trying until you get the desired shape.  the 
felt will move around quite a bit!

Have fun!
Kelly in Nova Scotia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 10:48 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat


> I'm going to try and make a Tudor Style tall hat with the pleated crown. 
> I
> went to the local GoodWill and they had a hat that fitted perfectly of 
> 100%
> wool felt. Problem is that it is a domed crown rather than square.  Is 
> there
> a way to steam that crown and get it fairly fat?
>
> I intend to play with an thick interlining that I have to get the brim
> shape, then I'll cut the actual hat brim.
>
> Does this sound reasonable, or does it sound like it will be more work 
> than
> simply creating the under-structure out the interfacing and paper and 
> going
> from there?
>
>
> Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
> Never attribute to malice what can as easily
> be attributed to simple social ineptness
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] mending techniques
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Status: RO

Very cool about the moths! my friend Griet would love to have had that 
happen to her clothing!

I could see a mixture of repair styles done, as long as then were done 
cleanly, to the best of you ability.  Mended clothes were a good think, as 
they were so expensive in the first place, not at all like today.  Even just 
a few decades ago, a little thing like a hole in your tuxedo jacket went to 
the menders to be darned or rewoven.

They would take a piece of matching cloth and fray the four edges so that 
you had a solid piece in the centre that was the size of the hole, and 
frayed thread ends to weave back into the cloth.
Therese de Dillmont's book on hand work shows great examples of how to do 
this kind of mending. I can't exactly remember the title of the book, and 
it's at home...sorry.

BTW, can I send you a riding habit to hang out in your attic for a 
while???;->

Kelly in Nova Scotia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@c17th.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 8:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] mending techniques


> Hello,
> I would be very gratefull for advice as to how to sort out my 1670 
> midwives clothing which I've just retrieved from storage to discover a 
> fair bit of moth damage. The whole set, boddice, and two pleated skirts 
> all wool lined with linen ,the design based on Vermeer's mikmaid has to be 
> remade anyway as I've dropped from english size 20 to a 10. Re-making the 
> kit is no problem but how should I repair the moth holes? I can darn and 
> patch.I have lovely woolen yarn in a matching colour for darning and also 
> scraps of the cloth for patching. Should I use a mix of darns and patches? 
> I'm hoping to make the repairs part of the costume part of my 
> presentation. My character is a respectable midwife, licesnsed by the 
> Bishop, well repected etc etc but not hugely wealthy.Any ideas gratefully 
> recieved.
> Not downhearted about this as the kit is beggining to look like real 
> clothing as oppossed to a costume, and making kit smaller is easier than 
> making it bigger.
> sorry about my speelling mistakes.
>
> regards
> Joy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] mending techniques
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 08:51:37 -0500
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Status: RO

I would lean toward mending and leave patches for tears.  If you are
'respectable', I think you would not advertise that you are also dirt poor.
Somehow, I think illustrators of children's books have contributed to our
concepts of how people of the past dealt with worn clothing.  I find mending
to be the proper way and patches, a quick fix.  It is akin to using
safteypins in place of lost buttons.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@c17th.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 7:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] mending techniques


> Hello,
> I would be very gratefull for advice as to how to sort out my 1670
midwives
> clothing which I've just retrieved from storage to discover a fair bit of
> moth damage. The whole set, boddice, and two pleated skirts all wool lined
> with linen ,the design based on Vermeer's mikmaid has to be remade anyway
as
> I've dropped from english size 20 to a 10. Re-making the kit is no problem
> but how should I repair the moth holes? I can darn and patch.I have lovely
> woolen yarn in a matching colour for darning and also scraps of the cloth
> for patching. Should I use a mix of darns and patches? I'm hoping to make
> the repairs part of the costume part of my presentation. My character is a
> respectable midwife, licesnsed by the Bishop, well repected etc etc but
not
> hugely wealthy.Any ideas gratefully recieved.
> Not downhearted about this as the kit is beggining to look like real
> clothing as oppossed to a costume, and making kit smaller is easier than
> making it bigger.
> sorry about my speelling mistakes.
>
> regards
> Joy
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 06:00:17 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] mending techniques
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At 04:27 AM 2/6/2006, you wrote:
>Hello,
>I would be very gratefull for advice as to how to sort out my 1670 
>midwives clothing which I've just retrieved from storage to discover 
>a fair bit of moth damage. The whole set, boddice, and two pleated 
>skirts all wool lined with linen ,the design based on Vermeer's 
>mikmaid has to be remade anyway as I've dropped from english size 20 
>to a 10. Re-making the kit is no problem but how should I repair the 
>moth holes? I can darn and patch.I have lovely woolen yarn in a 
>matching colour for darning and also scraps of the cloth for 
>patching. Should I use a mix of darns and patches? I'm hoping to 
>make the repairs part of the costume part of my presentation. My 
>character is a respectable midwife, licesnsed by the Bishop, well 
>repected etc etc but not hugely wealthy.Any ideas gratefully recieved.
>Not downhearted about this as the kit is beggining to look like real 
>clothing as oppossed to a costume, and making kit smaller is easier 
>than making it bigger.
>sorry about my speelling mistakes.
>
>regards
>Joy

I would recommend that any holes above 1/2-inch or so should be 
patched.  Anything smaller could be darned fairly easily.  And it 
goes without saying that you would make the repairs as unobtrusive as 
possible (which will be much easier than patching a cotton print 
dress since there is no matching of patterns to worry about, just 
matching the grain).  Congratulations on your weight loss.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, Robin Netherton wrote:
> I have a distant memory of a discussion of "hauberject" or a similar word,
> on this list, years ago, and remember nothing of value and cannot find it
> in my notes.

Yes, I have one post saved from 2004. I couldn't find anything in any of
the archives when searching for the word, but with the poster info I
found it:
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/index.cgi?l=hcos04&s=agnes%20gawne&Cmd=Match+6

I'm not sure if there was anything else in that discussion, but with the
date as a starting point it should be possible to find out. :)

Ingrid

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Feb  6 09:49:17 2006
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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On Mon, 6 Feb 2006, [iso-8859-1] Ingrid G. Storrø wrote:

> On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, Robin Netherton wrote:
> > I have a distant memory of a discussion of "hauberject" or a similar word,
> > on this list, years ago, and remember nothing of value and cannot find it
> > in my notes.
> 
> Yes, I have one post saved from 2004. I couldn't find anything in any of
> the archives when searching for the word, but with the poster info I
> found it:
> http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/index.cgi?l=hcos04&s=agnes%20gawne&Cmd=Match+6
> 
> I'm not sure if there was anything else in that discussion, but with the
> date as a starting point it should be possible to find out. :)

Yes indeed -- there are 15 posts with the subject line "Definition of
HABERJECT" (though the first three appear to be unintentional repeats).
You can find them starting with this search:

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/index.cgi?FirstItem=0&s=Definition+of+HABERJECT&l=hcos04

Or just go to the main search form and put in that subject line or the
word HABERJECT, and the year 2004:

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/

All the hits will lead you to the same compilation file of one month's
of posts, so you'll find the entire thread included here:

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/hcos04/hcos03.cl

The thread starts March 16. It's worth reading the whole thing, as I think
the Spanish translation is a blind alley.

That was exactly the right clue, Ingrid! And I did remember a mixup with
that term and "habergeon."

--Robin



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 16:44:11 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] embroidery threads on habits francaises
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Hi again,
This is just a question i have for some of the members who makes or study
18th century embroideries.
I have noticed that most of the french habits, are embroidered with 2 kinds
of silk thread. The monofillament silk (reeled untwisted silk) for the
motifs, and then that the stripes wich are made as borders are embroidered
with a twisted silk. This makes sence to me, as the borders will be mostly
worned out, and therefore have to be made with a stronger thread.
Has any of you noticed this?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Hi,
Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, Jas 
Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14 
days?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend
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Status: RO

I don't know how fast he can get things to Europe, but I have dealt with
them by US mail and in person for many years. They carry good quality
products and the management is extremely involved. I know they will make
every effort to get your order to you as quickly as possible. 


Karen
Seamstrix



On Mon, 6 Feb 2006 16:48:35 +0100 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> Hi,
> Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from 
> him, Jas 
> Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
> Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in 
> cirka 14 
> days?
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend
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Hi, Bjarne. I'm not in Europe, but I've ordered from Jas Townsend in the past, particularly stockings and hat blanks. I ordered by telephone and found the company very helpful and accommodating. I also had a short deadline for the stockings etc., and they made my deadline easily. You'd probably have to pay extra shipping costs, but if they say they can meet your deadline I believe they will. You should phone them if possible, though, so you can talk to a person and discuss your needs.

Of course I can't say if my experience is typical, but I can attest to their excellent service in that one experience.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Sent: Feb 6, 2006 10:48 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] about jas townsend
>
>Hi,
>Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, Jas 
>Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
>Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14 
>days?
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend
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Status: RO

Hi Ruth and Anne,
Thanks. Well yes, they promise to send quicly, ill pay 12 dollars for the 
posting, and then i could get it soon.
I needed stockings, and i found some other goodies two.
Thanks, and forgive me that i used the bandwidth for this.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend


> Hi, Bjarne. I'm not in Europe, but I've ordered from Jas Townsend in the 
> past, particularly stockings and hat blanks. I ordered by telephone and 
> found the company very helpful and accommodating. I also had a short 
> deadline for the stockings etc., and they made my deadline easily. You'd 
> probably have to pay extra shipping costs, but if they say they can meet 
> your deadline I believe they will. You should phone them if possible, 
> though, so you can talk to a person and discuss your needs.
>
> Of course I can't say if my experience is typical, but I can attest to 
> their excellent service in that one experience.
>
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>Sent: Feb 6, 2006 10:48 AM
>>To: h-costume@indra.com
>>Subject: [h-cost] about jas townsend
>>
>>Hi,
>>Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, 
>>Jas
>>Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
>>Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14
>>days?
>>
>>Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


_______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 16:34:26 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery threads on habits francaises
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Status: RO

At 15:44 06/02/2006, you wrote:

>Hi again,
>This is just a question i have for some of the members who makes or study
>18th century embroideries.
>I have noticed that most of the french habits, are embroidered with 2 kinds
>of silk thread. The monofillament silk (reeled untwisted silk) for the
>motifs, and then that the stripes wich are made as borders are embroidered
>with a twisted silk. This makes sence to me, as the borders will be mostly
>worned out, and therefore have to be made with a stronger thread.
>Has any of you noticed this?
>
>Bjarne


My waistcoat fragment, from about 1780, is embroidered with what I 
think is tambour stitching with a twisted thread, in pink and green 
mainly. If you go to my fotopic site 
http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/c382113.html it forms the 
background for my fashion plates, and you can see it in some detail.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:stockings for 18th century
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Bjarne

You could try Funn Stockings here in England.

http://www.kellysearch.co.uk/gb-company-300002851.html

Suzi


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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <002001c62b34$ccd20ed0$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 12:50:32 -0400
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I might have a difficult time getting them here to Canada that fast. I would 
call them, or drop them a note to see if they could ship via a faster 
method.
Kelly in Nova Scotia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 11:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] about jas townsend


> Hi,
> Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, 
> Jas Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
> Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14 
> days?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Feb  6 12:07:13 2006
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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In a message dated 2/5/2006 1:33:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

You  would have to make many hoops for this, but it surely 
would give it  flexibility.



The best "looking" and best moving hoop skirts are the cage ones [as  opposed 
to a "petticoat" ones] with lots of  hoops.
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Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 11:32:58 -0600
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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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A quick search turned up an essay "A Scandinavian Hauberget?" by  M. 
Nockert in:
Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E. M. 
Carus-Wilson, eds N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting, 1983, Heinemann Educational 
Books Ltd, London. ISBN 0-435-32382-2.  pp 100-107.

In this she, describes it as a diamond (lozenge) 2/2 twill originally woven 
on warp-weighted looms...
and references Carus-Wilson "Haberget: A medieval textile conundrum" 
originally published in Medieval Archaeology, but I cannot remember which 
book of mine reprints this.

I remember the issue (and the related issue "pallia fresonica") discussed 
in other sources but they do not come to mind.

If memory serves, this term was later applied to a coarse woolen twill used 
by poorer people and monks.

Beth Matney

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Hi Suzi,
Yes i did know this, also because when you have to catch the thread with the 
needle, it has to be a strong thread, you can se the same in Costume in 
Detail.
I should have ben more specific, i ment those embroidered with long and 
short stitch and satin stitches. Many of these has a stripe in the border of 
the front wich is not a tape, but actually embroidered and i have noticed 
that this stripe is made with twisted threads, while all the other 
embroidery is made of untwisted thread. Some coats and waistcoats also has a 
"stripe" embroidered in a sertain pattern and these also are made from 
twisted threads. You see the same in buttons, usually many of these is 
having a stripe embroidered in the edge, a cirkle wich also has twisted 
thread, but the main motif in the middle of the button is made of untwisted 
thread.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery threads on habits francaises


> At 15:44 06/02/2006, you wrote:
>
>>Hi again,
>>This is just a question i have for some of the members who makes or study
>>18th century embroideries.
>>I have noticed that most of the french habits, are embroidered with 2 
>>kinds
>>of silk thread. The monofillament silk (reeled untwisted silk) for the
>>motifs, and then that the stripes wich are made as borders are embroidered
>>with a twisted silk. This makes sence to me, as the borders will be mostly
>>worned out, and therefore have to be made with a stronger thread.
>>Has any of you noticed this?
>>
>>Bjarne
>
>
> My waistcoat fragment, from about 1780, is embroidered with what I think 
> is tambour stitching with a twisted thread, in pink and green mainly. If 
> you go to my fotopic site http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/c382113.html 
> it forms the background for my fashion plates, and you can see it in some 
> detail.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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The Riversdale House Museum, 4811 Riverdale Road in Riverdale Park,  
Maryland, announces a lecture, March 7,  at 7:30, with light refreshments  served at 
6:30.  Cost is $5.
 
"The How and Why of Accurate Cut and Fit of 19th Century Men's and Women's  
Clothing"
 
Saundra Altman, creator of Past Patterns, and Ericka Mason, of Connor  
Prairie, share their experience gathered through many years of studying extant  
garments and working with living history interpreters.
 
Call 301-864-0420 for more information.
 
Ann Wass
Riversdale


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Subject: [h-cost] Re:mending techniques
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The Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework by Therese de Dillmont
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0762413182/sr=1-1/qid=1139260769/ref=sr_1_1/103-0624918-7671817?%5Fencoding=UTF8
 
http://tinyurl.com/8hthw
 
I just read the chapter on mending the other day! My completely unexpert opinion is that you would probably want to mend anything smaller than an inch or so and patch anything larger than that. 
 
Tea Rose
================================

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 09:32:04 -0400
From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] mending techniques
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Very cool about the moths! my friend Griet would love to have had that 
happen to her clothing!

I could see a mixture of repair styles done, as long as then were done 
cleanly, to the best of you ability.  Mended clothes were a good think, as 
they were so expensive in the first place, not at all like today.  Even just 
a few decades ago, a little thing like a hole in your tuxedo jacket went to 
the menders to be darned or rewoven.

They would take a piece of matching cloth and fray the four edges so that 
you had a solid piece in the centre that was the size of the hole, and 
frayed thread ends to weave back into the cloth.
Therese de Dillmont's book on hand work shows great examples of how to do 
this kind of mending. I can't exactly remember the title of the book, and 
it's at home...sorry.

BTW, can I send you a riding habit to hang out in your attic for a 
while???;->

Kelly in Nova Scotia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@c17th.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 8:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] mending techniques
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Bjarne, 
 
Your Christmas present seemed to take about ten days to get from here to there, but that was regular first-class U.S. Mail. You could probably pay extra and have them ship it some other way.
 
Tea Rose
 
=================================================
 

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 16:48:35 +0100
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: [h-cost] about jas townsend
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Hi,
Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, Jas 
Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14 
days?

Bjarne
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Bjarne, could you put a cockade over the ends of your bobbin lace?
 
http://www.jastown.com/hats/th-905a.htm
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cockade
 
 
Tea Rose
================================================================
 
 
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 20:49:20 +0100
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: [h-cost] another question,
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <001d01c629c4$171e7a40$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
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Sorry i keep you buisy. but i was thinking also about making the trimming 
for a tricorne. Make it in gold bobbin lace. I have some lovely thick gold 
gimp i could use.
Does any of you have any good ideas i could do with the ends of the bobbin 
lace. I cant sew away all the threads so i get an invisible joint. What 
could i place at the joint to hide it? A button? Would it be two much to 
make a looped lace flower?
Any idears would be greatfull apreciated!

Bjarne
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Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 15:49:49 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] the "Fram Oil Filter" hat & politics
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Cynthia V & other h-costumers:
Thought you might enjoy this pic forwarded to me from a friend.  It's
very much like the "Fram Air Filter" hat seen in a Rogier van der
Weyden's Madelena seen here:
http://pintoresfamosos.juegofanatico.cl/images/van_der_weyden/magdalena.jpg
Like the original sender, If find it amusing to compare the Madelena &
the local mayorial candidates politicians.
PS. for non-US folks, the "Fram" reference is to a car part formerly
made in the US.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Hi guys...  I know I've had a discussion about a weird period hat with
some people, but I'm not sure which of you I've discussed it with
(maybe someone else...).  In any case, I thought you both might be
interested.  <snip>...  In today's Mercury News, there's a photo of
two guys sucking up to the  Vietnamese vote in San Jose, and they're
wearing "traditional Vietnamese garb" -- including hats that look a
_lot_ like the one I was mentioning above.  They're
out of some kind of brocade rather than the linen that the 15th c. one
looks like it's made of, but...  Here's a url for the story; the
picture is part way down on the left side:

http://www.mercurynews.com/mld/mercurynews/news/politics/elections/13802934.
htm

It just seemed to me that if one found out how the Vietnamese hats were
done it might offer some ideas for the 15th c. ones, too.

Hope this is of some use...  If anyone knows an address for Cynthia du
Pres Argent, she might be interested too.
--Matt

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Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 21:38:02 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and 
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Sorry - completely forgot about farthingales (duh moment)  (again)

have used them in the past and were v good.

for anyone in the UK, this is one of my suppliers for corsetry stuff (can 
order online, which I prefer) http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/

Debbie



In a message dated 2/6/06 3:46:26 PM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> >Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel'
> >looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm
> >happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures
> >as close as they need to be to be sure.
> >http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
> >
> >I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I
> >can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who
> >can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who
> >may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-)
> >

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend
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Am in Europe (UK) and we've used them before - not for a few years, and we 
weren't in any hige hurry at the time, but they were very helpful (my boyfriend 
ordered by phone).

This may be too late, but I'd suggest phoning them to make sure they know 
you're in a hurry, and that way, they can tell you whether they can get them to 
you in time.

Debs


In a message dated 2/6/06 9:20:15 PM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 16:48:35 +0100
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Subject: [h-cost] about jas townsend
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <002001c62b34$ccd20ed0$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>   reply-type=original
> 
> Hi,
> Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, Jas 
> Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
> Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14 
> days?
> 
> Bjarne
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images
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Hi all
I just discovered this

http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/round/index.html

on the V&A website: you basically get a 360 view of
selected outfits and a wonderful idea of the overall
shape and depth of the silhouettes. Hope you enjoy!

Bjarne - there is  very nice suit that reminded me of
some of your creations there, so I thought it might be
interesting to you too.

HTH

Katherine

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures? 
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Does anybody have pictures of genuine 17th century gloves they can 
share? I have checked out Ninya Mikhaila's great reproduction gloves, 
and found some by searching for "Glove Museum" and "Gloves in 
Museums", and also a great site by Francesca Havas. http://www.glove.org/

However, I am always looking for more research before starting a new 
job, so any help will be appreciated.

Suzi


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Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 09:33:29 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you! I am glad you found my site. :)

The gloves on the Worshipful glovers guild pages that are for James
the 1st are the ones you want to look for. There are also a pair of
Danish gloves that the link at the moment escapes me.

I am currently in training here on Wall Street (the subway ride was
so very cool!) and do not have access to my personal computer. It is
back at the hotel. I think the link is there on that computer and
will try to find it.

The Danish pair are fabulous! I will find the link for you somehow.

For now do a search for King James I gloves and that should pull up
a lot of really beautiful glove images for you. I really want to
make a few of those. They would be for non-sca purposes so no one
would really ever see them. :(

Chiara Francesca
glove maker :)


On Tue, February 7, 2006 9:13 am, Suzi Clarke said:
>
> Does anybody have pictures of genuine 17th century gloves they can
> share? I have checked out Ninya Mikhaila's great reproduction
> gloves,
> and found some by searching for "Glove Museum" and "Gloves in
> Museums", and also a great site by Francesca Havas.
> http://www.glove.org/
>
> However, I am always looking for more research before starting a new
> job, so any help will be appreciated.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


Franchesca Havas
----------------------------------------

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> Hi everyone,
>   I've just come to a question about period fastenings - when 
> I'm making period costumes, I often never know what type of 
> fastening shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they 
> fastened simply with a ribbon or a button or what? Does 
> anyone know any web page or book or simply anything that 
> could help me?


What period? I know one of my vintage 19cent petticoats is fastened with both a draw string and a button. The other two Victorian petticoats I have are fastened only with a draw string. 

I don't know of a general source that deals with the history of fastenings, but I wish/hope there is one...
	-sunny

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:stockings for 18th century
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Are they in London?  I couldn't find any online catalog. If they  are local
we could pop in while I am there.  Anne


You could try Funn Stockings here in England.

http://www.kellysearch.co.uk/gb-company-300002851.html

Suzi



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I have seen my Grandmother darn holes that were 1 1/2" and once 2" but
usually it was easier for her to match thread then to match a patch to the
garment fabric, especially if it was a store bought garment.
Just a little trivia.
De

-----Original Message-----
I would recommend that any holes above 1/2-inch or so should be
patched.  Anything smaller could be darned fairly easily.  And it
goes without saying that you would make the repairs as unobtrusive as
possible (which will be much easier than patching a cotton print
dress since there is no matching of patterns to worry about, just
matching the grain).  Congratulations on your weight loss.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net


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Organization: Medieval Hats: http://www.virtue.to
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the "Fram Oil Filter" hat & politics
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Cin wrote:

> wearing "traditional Vietnamese garb" -- including hats that look a
> _lot_ like the one I was mentioning above.  They're
> out of some kind of brocade rather than the linen that the 15th c. one
> looks like it's made of, but...  Here's a url for the story; the
> picture is part way down on the left side:
> 
> http://www.mercurynews.com/mld/mercurynews/news/politics/elections/13802934.
> htm

Hey, that's great!

I'd seen a hat not unlike this in a Smithsonian exhibit years ago -- it 
was brightly colored and black webbing (like an inkle loom band) wound 
around the head just like this.  I vaguely recall it was Peruvian, but I 
could easily be mistaken.

One of the interesting things about the Magdalen's hat is the motto on 
it; I don't think I've ever heard what it says, as it's barely legible 
in only a few reproductions.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

US postage with medieval images on it: 
http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures/1160846
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] pants
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I mean the underwear type pants - wide and with lace, the rather shorter ones ( I've seen some with a below-knee length, but these eould be too long for me)
   
  Zuzana

Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:
  Pants... You mean bloomers like they might have worn bicycling or underwear
type pants?

Wanda

> -----Orig
>
>
> Does anybody have a pattern for 19th century women's pants? Thanks
>
>


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Subject: [h-cost] period fastenings
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Hi everyone,
  I've just come to a question about period fastenings - when I'm making period costumes, I often never know what type of fastening shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web page or book or simply anything that could help me?
   
  Thanks a lot
   
  Zuzana

			
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: tricorn decoration (was another question)
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Hi,
Well yes this was probably a good idea. Thanks for the idea.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 10:32 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: tricorn decoration (was another question)


> Bjarne, could you put a cockade over the ends of your bobbin lace?
>
> http://www.jastown.com/hats/th-905a.htm
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cockade
>
>
> Tea Rose
> ================================================================
>
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 20:49:20 +0100
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Subject: [h-cost] another question,
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <001d01c629c4$171e7a40$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
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>    reply-type=original
>
> Sorry i keep you buisy. but i was thinking also about making the trimming
> for a tricorne. Make it in gold bobbin lace. I have some lovely thick gold
> gimp i could use.
> Does any of you have any good ideas i could do with the ends of the bobbin
> lace. I cant sew away all the threads so i get an invisible joint. What
> could i place at the joint to hide it? A button? Would it be two much to
> make a looped lace flower?
> Any idears would be greatfull apreciated!
>
> Bjarne
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Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 14:41:29 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images
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At 14:36 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>Hi all
>I just discovered this
>
>http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/round/index.html
>
>on the V&A website: you basically get a 360 view of
>selected outfits and a wonderful idea of the overall
>shape and depth of the silhouettes. Hope you enjoy!
>
>Bjarne - there is  very nice suit that reminded me of
>some of your creations there, so I thought it might be
>interesting to you too.
>
>HTH
>
>Katherine
>
>"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
>annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


Great site - thanks Katherine!

Suzi


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References: <20060207143616.90299.qmail@web25706.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images
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Hi Katherine,
Yes i discovered this yesterday, and it is lovely to see the costumes all 
way round. I also discovered that my computer suddently is able to se the 
french website that uses flash. It must be because the computer has updated 
itself! You do get some surprises some times........

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "katherine sanders" <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 3:36 PM
Subject: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images


> Hi all
> I just discovered this
>
> http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/round/index.html
>
> on the V&A website: you basically get a 360 view of
> selected outfits and a wonderful idea of the overall
> shape and depth of the silhouettes. Hope you enjoy!
>
> Bjarne - there is  very nice suit that reminded me of
> some of your creations there, so I thought it might be
> interesting to you too.
>
> HTH
>
> Katherine
>
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new 
> Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 08:12:37 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period fastenings
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At 03:21 AM 2/7/2006, you wrote:
>Hi everyone,
>   I've just come to a question about period fastenings - when I'm 
> making period costumes, I often never know what type of fastening 
> shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with 
> a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web page or book 
> or simply anything that could help me?
>
>   Thanks a lot
>
>   Zuzana

You need to be more specific.  What time period are you asking about?


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the "Fram Oil Filter" hat & politics
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On Tue, 7 Feb 2006, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> One of the interesting things about the Magdalen's hat is the motto on
> it; I don't think I've ever heard what it says, as it's barely legible
> in only a few reproductions.

It's much clearer in person, but it's in Hebrew, so I couldn't read it.
(It's always possible that it was just Hebrew characters and not actual
words, too.)

--Robin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:stockings for 18th century
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At 02:33 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>Are they in London?  I couldn't find any online catalog. If they  are local
>we could pop in while I am there.  Anne
>
>
>You could try Funn Stockings here in England.
>
>http://www.kellysearch.co.uk/gb-company-300002851.html
>
>Suzi


No sorry - they're in Sussex - a bit far for a bus journey. They 
don't do a catalogue online as far as I know, but I have a paper list 
they sent me somewhere.

Suzi


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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did you try going to
http://images.vam.ac.uk
and searching for gloves?  That's the V&A image site

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Aren't there a bunch of close ups of the embroidery and lace on these types  
of gloves in "Fashion in Detail"?
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Status: RO

Mia,

Thank you for the deep breath!

I think I'll start with the plastic wire ties, since I was able to get them
at Home Depot a few minutes away from my office.  That should get me
started, and then we'll see where I go from there.  I'm really doing this
for my own pleasure.  I don't have any friends who are into re-enacting or
costuming... so I'm a bit of an oddity within my circle of friends.  I'm a
bit of an oddity anyway :)

I finally got the skirt sewn onto the bodice over the weekend.  Now I'm
working on sewing hooks and eyes to the bodice.  I've decided that this is
my learning gown... I'm getting it done so that I can figure out what's
wrong with it.  I can already see that the sleeves are not nearly tight
enough... and I gather that there generally weren't side seams in the
bodice, but that they were a bit further back, behind the arm.  I haven't
sewn much of anything in such a long time, that I'm really enjoying myself!

I'm in the Philadelphia area (just outside the city limits).

Kristin

On 2/2/06, Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Kristin,
>
> First, take a deep breath,  Then decide what direction you want, or even
> think you might want to go in.  This will help you make your boning and
> pattern decisions.
>
> Just for the pleasure of doing it?  Only wearing it once a year, indoors
> in air conditioning?  Don't need much support?  Plastic boning is probably
> OK,
> Wearing it all day, all weekend at a reenactment?  Working and bending in
> it doing laundry at a museum site?  A little more bosom to support?  All
> your friends are hyper authenic?  Different choices.
>
> I saw you are in PA.  Where?  Some of the 18 cent reenactor folks run
> workshops in that NY/PA/MD area.  Being in NC, I'm too far away to take
> advantage of them, but they might fit your ticket.
>
> Your e-friend MIa in Far off Charlotte, NC
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
> What are the most popular cars? Find out at Yahoo! Autos
> _______________________________________________
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At 17:32 07/02/2006, you wrote:

>did you try going to
>http://images.vam.ac.uk
>and searching for gloves?  That's the V&A image site


I'd been to a different part of the V and A web site. Thanks for this.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Suzi Clarke wrote:

> 
> Does anybody have pictures of genuine 17th century gloves they can 
> share? 

The Boston MFA has quite a few in their collection, with nice pictures 
on their website.


Dawn



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Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 11:32:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period fastenings
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Actually, I'd like to get to know something about all periods, but just now I need late middle ages (13th-15th century) 

Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:  At 03:21 AM 2/7/2006, you wrote:
>Hi everyone,
> I've just come to a question about period fastenings - when I'm 
> making period costumes, I often never know what type of fastening 
> shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with 
> a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web page or book 
> or simply anything that could help me?
>
> Thanks a lot
>
> Zuzana

You need to be more specific. What time period are you asking about?


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:18c stays
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> I'm in the Philadelphia area (just outside the city limits).

     Wow, you are right in the thick of a lot of resources!  Beth Rump, I
think she's with the Chadds Ford museum, sponsored a workshop.  Deb
Peterson of Past Masters has run stays workshops.  Last year there
was a "ladies only" event at Brandywine, and I think they will do it
again this year.

     All the details can be found in the archives of 18cWoman, which is a
Yahoo group.

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Also, Piecework did a fine article on 16th C embroideries last year. Gloves
from QE2 inventory were part of the presentation.  I will look this up
later..
Kathleen


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> Aren't there a bunch of close ups of the embroidery and lace on these
types
> of gloves in "Fashion in Detail"?
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Hi, i did actually email them, and they answered me allready today. They 
told me that their silk stockings in white are sheer, so i would not want 
those. But their cotton stockings are used by many reenactors, they told me.
I also could do as Kensington Pallace' exhibition about court costumes 
learned me, that gentlemen wore cotton stockings first and then a pair of 
silk stockings on top of the cotton ones, so as to hide all the bad hairs.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 3:33 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:stockings for 18th century


> Are they in London?  I couldn't find any online catalog. If they  are 
> local
> we could pop in while I am there.  Anne
>
>
> You could try Funn Stockings here in England.
>
> http://www.kellysearch.co.uk/gb-company-300002851.html
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
> -- 
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Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 20:56:37 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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t 17:46 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>Aren't there a bunch of close ups of the embroidery and lace on these types
>of gloves in "Fashion in Detail"?


Oh, I have so many books I forgot I had that - thanks for reminding 
me. That's what comes of working on one job while thinking of the 
next but three!

Suzi


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Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 19:51:26 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 15:33 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>Thank you! I am glad you found my site. :)
>
>The gloves on the Worshipful glovers guild pages that are for James
>the 1st are the ones you want to look for. There are also a pair of
>Danish gloves that the link at the moment escapes me.
>
>I am currently in training here on Wall Street (the subway ride was
>so very cool!) and do not have access to my personal computer. It is
>back at the hotel. I think the link is there on that computer and
>will try to find it.
>
>The Danish pair are fabulous! I will find the link for you somehow.
>
>For now do a search for King James I gloves and that should pull up
>a lot of really beautiful glove images for you. I really want to
>make a few of those. They would be for non-sca purposes so no one
>would really ever see them. :(
>
>Chiara Francesca
>glove maker :)


Francesca

Thank you - I would really appreciate the link if you can find it - I 
have a month for research before I need to start.  I went to an 
exhibition put on by the Worshipful Glovers, and must try to find the 
leaflet. However I am getting a very odd site from the address www.glovers.com

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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How about QE1 !!
KSM
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> Aren't there a bunch of close ups of the embroidery and lace on these
types
> of gloves in "Fashion in Detail"?
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 18:36 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
>>Does anybody have pictures of genuine 17th century gloves they can share?
>
>The Boston MFA has quite a few in their collection, with nice 
>pictures on their website.
>
>
>Dawn


Thank you.  All too complicated and expensive to copy, I fear. Most 
customers can't afford to pay for the time to do the embroidery. Pity!

Suzi


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Quoting Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>:

> Also, Piecework did a fine article on 16th C embroideries last year. Gloves
> from QE2 inventory were part of the presentation.  I will look this up
> later..

oooh.  I must have missed that issue somehow.  Which one was it?

Thanks,
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] More eye candy
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My book  find of the week is "What Dolls Wore Before" by Florence Theriault.
She covers the years 1850-1925 in this volume of luscious real photos of doll costumes.
For those of you who have children for whom you do h-costume, this book provides designs and fabric and trim that has been difficult to pin down (well, so to speak,) before. Many of the dolls clothes were also what children were wearing in this period.

Next to the Kyoto volume that sparked our imaginations, this book will certainly sit in ready reach for ideas on how to do a more credible rendering.

Kathleen, who found this at the Amazon site...
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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There's an article on an early 17th c. hunting set including a pair of 
gauntlet gloves in Piecework Volume XI, Number 2 (March/April 2003).

Melanie Schuessler

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Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 15:51:31 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
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Status: RO

Yes the domain name got purchased from under them.

The link in my links section was from archive.org since it was still
up for a long time. Try it that way.

There is a huge amount of gloves from the 17th century that can be
found everywhere. There are few online museums that even let you
zoom in close.

It may be late tonight before I can get the links for you.

Chiara

On Tue, February 7, 2006 1:51 pm, Suzi Clarke said:
> At 15:33 07/02/2006, you wrote:
> Francesca
>
> Thank you - I would really appreciate the link if you can find it -
> I
> have a month for research before I need to start.  I went to an
> exhibition put on by the Worshipful Glovers, and must try to find
> the
> leaflet. However I am getting a very odd site from the address
> www.glovers.com
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


Franchesca Havas
----------------------------------------

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In a message dated 2/7/2006 4:05:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

All too  complicated and expensive to copy, I fear.


What about the Spanish ones that seemed to just be decorated with  ribbon 
loops and metallic lace? #38.135a
 
 
 
I saw a pair faked for film made of  bought leather work gloves with a  cuff 
added made of a brocade enhanced with a little seed pearl embroidery, some  
bullion and spangles and lace. Just enough hand work to make the things  look 
worked to death when mixed with the brocade. Looked great.
 
I loved the knitted ones supposed worn by Cardinal Richelieu. I loved the  
iconography embroidered on just the top of the hand of the left glove. A great  
detail to use on a costume.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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In a message dated 2/7/2006 5:51:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

What  about the Spanish ones that seemed to just be decorated with  ribbon  
loops and metallic lace? #38.135a



loved the knitted ones supposed worn by Cardinal Richelieu. I loved  the  
iconography embroidered on just the top of the hand of the left  glove. A 
great  
detail to use on a costume.
 
 
I was looking at  the MFA in Boston site, BTW....thought I'd  mention that.  
:-P

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Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 22:53:41 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 23:10 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>There's an article on an early 17th c. hunting set including a pair 
>of gauntlet gloves in Piecework Volume XI, Number 2 (March/April 2003).
>
>Melanie Schuessler


As far as I know this magazine is not available in the U.K. At least 
I have never seen it here. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places?

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Hi Suzi,
Yes i say the same of Denmark. But i have heard so many good things about 
this. Perhaps it is possible to subscribe it like i do for the austrailian 
Inspirations Magazine?

Bjarne

Where was it you could se the danish pair of 17th century gloves?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> At 23:10 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>>There's an article on an early 17th c. hunting set including a pair of 
>>gauntlet gloves in Piecework Volume XI, Number 2 (March/April 2003).
>>
>>Melanie Schuessler
>
>
> As far as I know this magazine is not available in the U.K. At least I 
> have never seen it here. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places?
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 21:51 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>Yes the domain name got purchased from under them.
>
>The link in my links section was from archive.org since it was still
>up for a long time. Try it that way.
>
>There is a huge amount of gloves from the 17th century that can be
>found everywhere. There are few online museums that even let you
>zoom in close.
>
>It may be late tonight before I can get the links for you.
>
>Chiara


like I said, I have a while before I have to actually make these, so 
there is no rush.

Found this great site while looking around.

http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/narrative.php?irn=237&himage=9&themeback=10&CostumeTheme=#image

Suzi
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>I mean the underwear type pants - wide and with lace, >the rather shorter ones ( I've seen some with a below->knee length, but these eould be too long for me)

and 

>I've just come to a question about period fastenings - >when I'm making period costumes, I often never know >what type of fastening shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - >were they fastened simply with a ribbon or a button or >what? Does anyone know any web page or book or >simply anything that could help me?


   
 > Zuzana

I believe you're looking for drawers; there are free directions for drafting a custom pattern for mid-19th century drawers at : www.elizabethstewartclark.com

I have used these directions for ladies of a variety of sizes and shapes and found it to work quite well. If you poke around the site a bit, you will also find advice on other mid-19th century undergarments.

Regards,
Kelly Dorman
Backward Glances
www.backwardglances.net
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period fastenings
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 18:48:00 -0500
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> Actually, I'd like to get to know something about all periods, but just 
> now I need late middle ages (13th-15th century)

Petticoats for 13th-15th century? I thought it was all one-piece garments up 
to the 16th C or so?

In any case, for the late Middle-Ages, I'd say lacings mostly, and some 
buttons maybe. But that's an awful long period to cover, and you don't say 
where, so it's a little hard to be more specific.

>
> Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:  At 03:21 AM 2/7/2006, you 
> wrote:
>>Hi everyone,
>> I've just come to a question about period fastenings - when I'm
>> making period costumes, I often never know what type of fastening
>> shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with
>> a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web page or book
>> or simply anything that could help me?
>>
>> Thanks a lot
>>
>> Zuzana
>
> You need to be more specific. What time period are you asking about?
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] drawers
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>>I mean the underwear type pants - wide and with lace,
>>the rather shorter ones ( I've seen some
>> with a below->knee length, but these eould be too long for me)
>> Zuzana

>I believe you're looking for drawers; there are free directions for 
>drafting a custom
> pattern for mid-19th century drawers at : www.elizabethstewartclark.com

Unless you're looking for medieval drawers (weren't you the one who posted a 
question about  fastenings too? -- unless they're totally unrelated 
questions). In any case, I don't think we can prove the existence of drawers 
as a standard undergarment before the 1800s, even if they existed (seemed to 
be a sort of curiosity then, except perhaps in Italy) in the late 1500s. And 
there's a strong case against their existence in the Middle Ages. 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 19:20:34 -0500
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The text for this article is built on items of the Burrell Collection,
Glascow, Scotland.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> At 23:10 07/02/2006, you wrote:
> >There's an article on an early 17th c. hunting set including a pair
> >of gauntlet gloves in Piecework Volume XI, Number 2 (March/April 2003).
> >
> >Melanie Schuessler
>
>
> As far as I know this magazine is not available in the U.K. At least
> I have never seen it here. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places?
>
> Suzi
>
>
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Burger King costumes
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This commercial was a scream!

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4186888463242782209


I love the sleeves on the lettuce costume, and the tomato hat is to die 
for!


Dawn

ps: the rest of the superbowl commercials are here:
http://video.google.com/superbowl.html



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images
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Katherine,

I can view the images.  The website states that you need to have Apple 
QuickTime.  I guess because I am not using a Mac it won't show up.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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I discovered this magazine in the mid 1990s,  They are doing for the needle arts what we of h-costume hope we are doing for fashion and textile arts.  Every issue deals by history or handiwork what is being passed down or rediscovered by folk such as we are or hope to be.
>From time to time I have passed on to the list current articles that by serendipity or from my own interest, that seem to deal with topics of interest to H-costume. Whether it be 'nal binding', blackwork, the language of clothing,or maybe "Taste, Art, and Design in Great Britain from 1500 to 1900",  or other topics dealing with piecework from the far distant or near remembrances of past present, this one publication helps to keep me not only informed but inspired to learn past and new ways of manipulating the textiles I love.

Kathleen
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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OK.  thanks to the evil woman who pointed out the MFA in Boston site,
I've been drooling there for *far* too long.

Count Richelieu's gloves intrigue me.  Are there examples of knitted
gloves *before* 1600?

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Burger King costumes
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Dawn,

My husband told me there was an interesting commerical from Burger King that I would like.

During the mid-1970s, I worked at Burger King for 2 years of high school and one year of Jr. College.  My kids hate it when I special order Whoppers.  When I worked there "Have it your way!" was our slogan.  And we were not to complain.  I guess the advertising world is similar to the Fashion World, "What goes around, comes around."  Probably with film-making too... this ad looks very Busby Berkley-ish.

My favorite was the onion costume. 

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Burger King costumes
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 19:37:31 -0600
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Of late their commercials are a bit weird IMO. And the King character creeps
me out.
De
Former McDonald's crew.

-----Original Message-----
Dawn,

My husband told me there was an interesting commerical from Burger King that
I would like.

During the mid-1970s, I worked at Burger King for 2 years of high school and
one year of Jr. College.  My kids hate it when I special order Whoppers.
When I worked there "Have it your way!" was our slogan.  And we were not to
complain.  I guess the advertising world is similar to the Fashion World,
"What goes around, comes around."  Probably with film-making too... this ad
looks very Busby Berkley-ish.

My favorite was the onion costume.

Penny E. Ladnier


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:stockings for 18th century
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OK.  I can look at it when I am there. See you soon,	 

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 11:33 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:stockings for 18th century



>No sorry - they're in Sussex - a bit far for a bus journey. They 
>don't do a catalogue online as far as I know, but I have a paper list 
>they sent me somewhere.
>
>Suzi


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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Burger King costumes
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 17:52:06 -0800
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That's our name for the character, "That Creepy Plastic Guy"  But I  
have to admit to loving the commercial with the King and Darth  
Vader.  :D

Althea


On Feb 7, 2006, at 5:37 PM, otsisto wrote:

> Of late their commercials are a bit weird IMO. And the King  
> character creeps
> me out.
> De
> Former McDonald's crew.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Dawn,
>
> My husband told me there was an interesting commerical from Burger  
> King that
> I would like.
>
> During the mid-1970s, I worked at Burger King for 2 years of high  
> school and
> one year of Jr. College.  My kids hate it when I special order  
> Whoppers.
> When I worked there "Have it your way!" was our slogan.  And we  
> were not to
> complain.  I guess the advertising world is similar to the Fashion  
> World,
> "What goes around, comes around."  Probably with film-making too...  
> this ad
> looks very Busby Berkley-ish.
>
> My favorite was the onion costume.
>
> Penny E. Ladnier
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] period fastenings
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 19:57:38 -0600
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There is indication in some "Italian" portraits of the possibility of
petticoats in the late 1400s. The counter argument is that the bodice and
skirt are two different materials but sewn together. I am sure there are
more theories out there.
As for closures, there is the possibility of hook and eye but being that
most garments had a tendency to be made to fit most people (hand-me-downs),
I would think that the drawstring waist band would be the most common form
of closure for the petticoat/underskirt.
I am going under the assumption that it is the under skirts that are being
asked about as I vague remember that petticoat has changed in item
identification over the years.

De
(been sick so a bit fogged brain)
-----Original Message-----
> Actually, I'd like to get to know something about all periods, but just
> now I need late middle ages (13th-15th century)

Petticoats for 13th-15th century? I thought it was all one-piece garments up
to the 16th C or so?

In any case, for the late Middle-Ages, I'd say lacings mostly, and some
buttons maybe. But that's an awful long period to cover, and you don't say
where, so it's a little hard to be more specific.



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
References: <20060207143616.90299.qmail@web25706.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>	<6.2.3.4.0.20060207150913.01db67c8@127.0.0.1>	<55190.66.9.89.66.1139326409.squirrel@webmail.io.com>	<6.2.3.4.0.20060207194849.01d65020@127.0.0.1>	<29462.66.9.89.66.1139349091.squirrel@webmail.io.com>	<6.2.3.4.0.20060207231017.01d54aa0@127.0.0.1>
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Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> 
> OK.  thanks to the evil woman who pointed out the MFA in Boston site,
> I've been drooling there for *far* too long.
> 
> Count Richelieu's gloves intrigue me.  Are there examples of knitted
> gloves *before* 1600?
> 

There is a pair of knitted ecclesiastical gloves in the MFA collection 
that are labelled "16th century". (item #38.1339a/b) That would put them 
in the 1500's...unfortunately further information is not displayed with 
the item.



Dawn


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References: <20060207143616.90299.qmail@web25706.mail.ukl.yahoo.com><6.2.3.4.0.20060207144111.01dbd8d0@127.0.0.1>
	<005e01c62c47$40668ac0$6400a8c0@Penny>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 21:38:59 -0500
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No no, Quicktime is free, like Acrobat Reader or Real Player.

You can get it here. (BTW, you don't need to put in your email on the 
download site before downloading.)
http://www.apple.com/quicktime/download/win.html


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images


> Katherine,
>
> I can view the images.  The website states that you need to have Apple 
> QuickTime.  I guess because I am not using a Mac it won't show up.
>
> Penny E. Ladnier
> Owner,
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Yes.
--sue
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> 
> OK.  thanks to the evil woman who pointed out the MFA in Boston site,
> I've been drooling there for *far* too long.
> 
> Count Richelieu's gloves intrigue me.  Are there examples of knitted
> gloves *before* 1600?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Status: RO

It is available by subscription, although I don't know if they ship outside
the US/Canada.  At any rate, the publishers have a website, which I'm noting
below:
http://www.interweave.com/needle/piecework_magazine/subscriptions/subscripti
ons.asp
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> Hi Suzi,
> Yes i say the same of Denmark. But i have heard so many good things about
> this. Perhaps it is possible to subscribe it like i do for the austrailian
> Inspirations Magazine?
>
> Bjarne
>
> Where was it you could se the danish pair of 17th century gloves?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 11:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
>
>
> > At 23:10 07/02/2006, you wrote:
> >>There's an article on an early 17th c. hunting set including a pair of
> >>gauntlet gloves in Piecework Volume XI, Number 2 (March/April 2003).
> >>
> >>Melanie Schuessler
> >
> >
> > As far as I know this magazine is not available in the U.K. At least I
> > have never seen it here. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places?
> >
> > Suzi
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Suzi and others...

American Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00006KSSX/qid%3D1139358772/sr%3D11-1/ref%3Dsr_11_1/103-9265195-6475826

 From the Piecework Website
http://www.interweave.com/needle/piecework_magazine/default.asp

I'm sure they will be happy to sell you back issues.  :)

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period fastenings
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I'm a little confused.  I didn't know anyone was wearing anything like 
petticoats in 13th-15th c. Europe.  Are you looking at a different 
place?  Or did I misunderstand your question?  Type of fastening will 
depend on what garment, when, where, worn by whom, made of what, etc. 
There's not really an easy answer.

Melanie Schuessler


Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
 > Actually, I'd like to get to know something about all periods, but
 > just now I need late middle ages (13th-15th century)
 >
 > Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:  At 03:21 AM 2/7/2006,
 > you wrote:
 >
 >> Hi everyone, I've just come to a question about period fastenings -
 >> when I'm making period costumes, I often never know what type of
 >> fastening shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened
 >> simply with a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web
 >> page or book or simply anything that could help me?
 >>
 >> Thanks a lot
 >>
 >> Zuzana



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Hello everyone!

I'm forwarding this on behalf of someone on another list; I figured folks
here would have an idea or two. :-)
------------------------------
Snip to relevent question:

> On another note, friends of mine are looking for a safe dagger / short
sword for the enjoyment of their young son.  (Safe - as in will not puncture
or perforate another person, causing welts upon older brother is considered
acceptable use)   They do not want the cheap plastic junk found at
halloween.  I vaguely remember someone posting on a forum about a rubber
dagger, seems to me it was made out of a similar material to that of hockey
pucks.  But unfortunately I cannot seem to find where I saw it.  If anyone
knows what I'm talking about, please let me know.

------------------------------
Thanks in advance!

Sheridan


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There are quite a few pictures of both women's and men's gloves in The 
Visual History of Costume Accessories by Valerie Cumming, but alas, 
they're all in black and white.

--lisa


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword
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Try costume stores, they often carry "props" for various costumes. Also, if
you don't mind a longer sword, I got my son a wooden practice sword that
they sell for martial arts. It cost about $8.00. Very nice.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Shane & Sheridan
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 8:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword


Hello everyone!

I'm forwarding this on behalf of someone on another list; I figured folks
here would have an idea or two. :-)
------------------------------
Snip to relevent question:

> On another note, friends of mine are looking for a safe dagger / short
sword for the enjoyment of their young son.  (Safe - as in will not puncture
or perforate another person, causing welts upon older brother is considered
acceptable use)   They do not want the cheap plastic junk found at
halloween.  I vaguely remember someone posting on a forum about a rubber
dagger, seems to me it was made out of a similar material to that of hockey
pucks.  But unfortunately I cannot seem to find where I saw it.  If anyone
knows what I'm talking about, please let me know.

------------------------------
Thanks in advance!

Sheridan


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 03:04 08/02/2006, you wrote:
>It is available by subscription, although I don't know if they ship outside
>the US/Canada.  At any rate, the publishers have a website, which I'm noting
>below:
>http://www.interweave.com/needle/piecework_magazine/subscriptions/subscripti
>ons.asp
>--Sue


Thanks - I have written for information.

Suzi


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In a message dated 2/8/06 2:41:30 AM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with
> >>a ribbon or a button or what?

Question - what do you actually mean by petticoat??

If you mean an underdress (aka chemise or shift), then  they were loose 
enough not to need fastenings - the only class distinction would be in the quality 
of the fabric.  (I asked the question because I've never known it to be called 
a petticoat during the earlier periods.)

If you mean the waistcoat-like garment often used to hold up hosen, then 
points (individual ties, rather than one long lace).

Hope that's of help, but more clarification would mean I could give more 
info.

Debs 
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Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> 
> OK.  thanks to the evil woman who pointed out the MFA in Boston site,
> I've been drooling there for *far* too long.
> 
> Count Richelieu's gloves intrigue me.  Are there examples of knitted
> gloves *before* 1600?

There's a pair of red knitted silk and metal thread 15th-century 
pontifical gloves and one silk and metal knitted 13th-century 
archbishop's glove in Textile Conservation and Research by Mechtild 
Flury-Lemberg.

Melanie Schuessler

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In a message dated 2/8/06 2:41:30 AM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with
> >>a ribbon or a button or what?

PS to what I just said - you did give some awfully wide apart dates - in that 
time the shape of the chemise wouldn't change all that much, but the 
waistcoat-like garment would only be worn really more towards the end of it, and then 
not always, as the doublet was often used to hold up the hosen.

D
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I'm trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ for 
the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent hardcover 
edition)

"The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong side and 
then fine-drawing on the right, working from the skirt opening upwards."


Backstitching I understand, but "fine-drawing" has me lost. I found two 
references online that seem to suggest it is a method for joining fabric 
by butting the edges together, but that doesn't work with a seam that's 
already backstitched... does it?

Can anyone clarify this for me?



Dawn


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 16:26:49 +1100
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Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
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I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for
submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that they have
a new historic costume pattern,
http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a bustle or
natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom of
the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite a bit
like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although they do
already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo on
stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early 1880s
outfits.
Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic this is
and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't look
too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, it
reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need fitting 
to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to pinpoint a flaw (I 
admit I don't like the look of the back of the skirt but I don't know if 
that's because it's inauthentic or I just dislike the style). Then again 
I've only done a little research into this era, so for those who have more 
expertise in natural form era outfits what is your opinion?
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/



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Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice
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Hi everyone!

I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
think they have more of a clue than "north european,
possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
queries on them.

More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite
embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early
19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The
construction is well illustrated by the photos as is
the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've
suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from
light and other clothes in an acid-neutral
environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's
costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by
India but I couldn't tell you why...

http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/

They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you
can help :-)

Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 09:38:27 -0400
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Status: RO

The waistcoat looks late 18th Century to me. the vibrant colours were 
popular then too, and if pack away from light for the last couple of hundred 
years, would retain it's colour. It looks in fabulous condition! I would 
lightly vacum it, with a low power vacume like ones used in museums, but 
that's all before packing it away properly.  "cleaning" often confuses 
people into washing it in water, which might damage the garment.  No matter 
the condition, it shouldn't be worn any more.
At the end of the 18th Century, fashions were becomming inspired by the near 
east. Archeaoligical digs in Egypt and expansion into the Medeterrianian and 
Eastward by England were influencing a new Classical era. That may be why 
you feel it's inspired by India.

Looks yummy!
Kelly in Nova Scotia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "katherine sanders" <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:36 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice


> Hi everyone!
>
> I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
> tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
> think they have more of a clue than "north european,
> possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
> queries on them.
>
> More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite
> embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early
> 19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The
> construction is well illustrated by the photos as is
> the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've
> suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from
> light and other clothes in an acid-neutral
> environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's
> costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by
> India but I couldn't tell you why...
>
> http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/
>
> They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you
> can help :-)
>
> Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh
>
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Photos - NEW, now offering a quality print service from just 8p a 
> photo http://uk.photos.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
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Status: RO

At 05:26 08/02/2006, you wrote:
>I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for
>submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that they have
>a new historic costume pattern,
>http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a bustle or
>natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom of
>the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite a bit
>like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although they do
>already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo on
>stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early 1880s
>outfits.
>Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic this is
>and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't look
>too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, it
>reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need 
>fitting to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to 
>pinpoint a flaw (I admit I don't like the look of the back of the 
>skirt but I don't know if that's because it's inauthentic or I just 
>dislike the style). Then again I've only done a little research into 
>this era, so for those who have more expertise in natural form era 
>outfits what is your opinion?
>Elizabeth


The bodice looks reasonable, but I am really not sure about the 
drapes coming from the back bodice in that way. I've made a few of 
this period and would much rather rely on my favourites, Hunnisett 
and Arnold for patterns. "Dover's "Harper's Bazaar" book has lots of 
pictures of this era, and Truly Victorian has lots of patterns for 
skirts of this period. I would perhaps not "spend" your pattern on this.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Funn Stockings, was 18th century stockings
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I've just found my samples from Funn Stockings. (Who says my workroom 
is a shambles?) The silk ones are very fine, and would need to be 
worn over another pair for men's 18th century. The cotton ones are 
not so fine, but are translucent rather than transparent. Hope this helps.

Suzi


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	<20060207150829.gumo69ittxc0g4gc@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 08:53:05 -0500
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How time flies, alas...
The issue is actually Vol. XI, Number 2 (March/April '03)
While looking for this last eve, I pulled several issues out at random that
deal with the 16/17Centuries.They are:Taste, Art, and Design in great
Britain 1500-1900
(Jan/Feb '03)
The Wedding Cloak of Johann GeorgI (May/June '05)
Language of clothing (July/Aug '03)Julliet Hamelcourt: Medieval Artist in a
modern World (Nov/Dec '99)
Blackwork (Jan/Feb'04)

Because of the breadth of needle arts  this magazine covers, all be it
sometimes in snatches, it is the single subscription I keep up with.

Kathleen  (And they are a company that actually answer phones or returns
e-mail queries!!)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> Quoting Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>:
>
> > Also, Piecework did a fine article on 16th C embroideries last year.
Gloves
> > from QE2 inventory were part of the presentation.  I will look this up
> > later..
>
> oooh.  I must have missed that issue somehow.  Which one was it?
>
> Thanks,
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Sheridan,
 
I've used rubber daggers in various live-action games (full-contact fighting ones as well as the more 'drama' oriented ones).
 
We picked them up at martial art stores, where you can also buy wooden practice swords or shinai (bamboo practice swords), all three of which should qualify under your friend's qualifications.
 
Angharad / Jonnalyhn Wolfcat
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Knitted gloves
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I was drooling over a friends new book this weekend that had great pics
of, if I remember correctly, 3 pairs of knitted gloves.  One of the
earliest pairs was red.  He got it at a museum in Bavaria on a trip last
fall so the text is in Germany.  Haven't had a chance to search around
and see if it is available outside the museum but here is the info I
copied down:

Textile Schatze aus Renaissance und Barock Bayerisches National Museum
Birgitt Borkopp-Restle
Bavarian National Museum

Had some great pics of a 16/early 17C embroideryed shirt, lace
examples, etc. as well

Catherine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
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The actual picture looks as if the side poof is pulled to the front opening 
but the drawing view does not. I don't know if that is the problem you seek, 
but that is one difference I see. The ones I've seen like this are pulled 
more towards the back, not to the front. They form the bustle and "butt 
enhancement" with all the poofyness.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:26 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?


>I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for
> submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that they 
> have
> a new historic costume pattern,
> http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a bustle or
> natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom of
> the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite a 
> bit
> like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although they 
> do
> already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo on
> stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early 1880s
> outfits.
> Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic this 
> is
> and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't 
> look
> too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, it
> reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need fitting 
> to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to pinpoint a flaw (I 
> admit I don't like the look of the back of the skirt but I don't know if 
> that's because it's inauthentic or I just dislike the style). Then again 
> I've only done a little research into this era, so for those who have more 
> expertise in natural form era outfits what is your opinion?
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: underpants 19th c?
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When 19th cent?
   
  early? middle? late?
   
    There are some patterns Past Patterns( to buy) and Elizabeth Stewart Clark( free on the web)  take care of middle 19th cent (split crothch and all).  Folkwear USED to make a late 19th cent. version, I don't know if they still do.
   
  MIa in Charlotte, NC, who uses that mid-19th cent to wear under 18c kit.  I just can't do without

		
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At 13:38 08/02/2006, you wrote:
>The waistcoat looks late 18th Century to me. the vibrant colours 
>were popular then too, and if pack away from light for the last 
>couple of hundred years, would retain it's colour. It looks in 
>fabulous condition! I would lightly vacum it, with a low power 
>vacume like ones used in museums, but that's all before packing it 
>away properly.  "cleaning" often confuses people into washing it in 
>water, which might damage the garment.  No matter the condition, it 
>shouldn't be worn any more.
>At the end of the 18th Century, fashions were becomming inspired by 
>the near east. Archeaoligical digs in Egypt and expansion into the 
>Medeterrianian and Eastward by England were influencing a new 
>Classical era. That may be why you feel it's inspired by India.
>
>Looks yummy!
>Kelly in Nova Scotia
>
>>Hi everyone!
>>
>>I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
>>tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
>>think they have more of a clue than "north european,
>>possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
>>queries on them.
>>
>>More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite
>>embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early
>>19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The
>>construction is well illustrated by the photos as is
>>the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've
>>suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from
>>light and other clothes in an acid-neutral
>>environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's
>>costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by
>>India but I couldn't tell you why...
>>
>>http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/
>>
>>They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you
>>can help :-)
>>
>>Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh


It looks about 178- to me. I have half a waistcoat front from that 
era, and it has not faded at all - the silks were obviously very well dyed.

I would suggest you contact a conservator at one of the many fine 
museums in Scotland, and ask for advice.  I cannot remember where she 
works, but Naomi Tarrant is/was curator of costume at a Museum there 
- Shambellie House maybe? Sortry, I'm being vague too!!

Suzi in sunny London, although clouding over as I type.


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period fastenings
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Perhaps I was not clear enough - when I was talking about petticoats, I meant mainly the 19th century of course. The fact is, I was asking if anyone knew a web page or a book where I could read something about fastenings in common - which kind of fastening was used in the middle ages, what in renaissance etc. 
  For example I'd like to know when did people start to use lace as a fastening - and when buttons. and how did the buttons actually look like? Were they from the same fabric as the garment, or could they have been made of metal? For such questions it is hard to find anywhere an answer.
  
Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
  I'm a little confused. I didn't know anyone was wearing anything like 
petticoats in 13th-15th c. Europe. Are you looking at a different 
place? Or did I misunderstand your question? Type of fastening will 
depend on what garment, when, where, worn by whom, made of what, etc. 
There's not really an easy answer.

Melanie Schuessler


Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Actually, I'd like to get to know something about all periods, but
> just now I need late middle ages (13th-15th century)
>
> Joan Jurancich wrote: At 03:21 AM 2/7/2006,
> you wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone, I've just come to a question about period fastenings -
>> when I'm making period costumes, I often never know what type of
>> fastening shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened
>> simply with a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web
>> page or book or simply anything that could help me?
>>
>> Thanks a lot
>>
>> Zuzana



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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 09:25:54 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

This is from another  group I sew with.  Their emphasis is on the 
Victorian/ Edwardian Period.

<< It's sure pretty, but I wouldn't exactly call it "historic."  
"Costume" is the right word.  But it looks like they're trying to get 
an 1880 look.  When JoAnn has their Simplicity $1 pattern sale, I'd 
pick it up because it looks like the bodice would work, with a few 
modifications.  I really don't like the poufy stuff at the hip -- I'd 
change that part to something pleated.>>

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 8, 2006, at 12:26 AM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for
> submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that 
> they have
> a new historic costume pattern,
> http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a 
> bustle or
> natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom 
> of
> the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite 
> a bit
> like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although 
> they do
> already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo 
> on
> stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early 
> 1880s
> outfits.
> Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic 
> this is
> and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't 
> look
> too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, 
> it
> reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need 
> fitting to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to 
> pinpoint a flaw (I admit I don't like the look of the back of the 
> skirt but I don't know if that's because it's inauthentic or I just 
> dislike the style). Then again I've only done a little research into 
> this era, so for those who have more expertise in natural form era 
> outfits what is your opinion?
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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At 01:36 AM 2/8/2006, you wrote:
>Hi everyone!
>
>I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
>tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
>think they have more of a clue than "north european,
>possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
>queries on them.
>
>More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite
>embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early
>19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The
>construction is well illustrated by the photos as is
>the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've
>suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from
>light and other clothes in an acid-neutral
>environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's
>costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by
>India but I couldn't tell you why...
>
>http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/
>
>They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you
>can help :-)
>
>Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh
>
>"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
>annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>

I can't view anything but the indices and the first picture of each set.

The one picture of the waistcoat gives me the impression that it is 
later 18th rather than early 19th century (I'm no expert in this 
area, so take my impression for what it's worth :-D).


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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And I have ordered several back issues of magazines.  This is another one of
those evil sites.  Anne


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The Interactive Weaver Tartan Generator automatically generates tartan
patterns based on your color selections. Choose your colors, their
order and the number of threads per color and they'll draw the tartan
and then give you the option of having twill or silk fabric woven in
your chosen pattern.

http://houseoftartan.co.uk/interactive/weaver/index.html


I have no ordered from this company, but it looks like a neat method of 
getting some unique fabric.



Dawn


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>   For example I'd like to know when did people start to use lace as a fastening - and when buttons. and how did the buttons actually look like? Were they from the same fabric as the garment, or could they have been made of metal? For such questions it is hard to find anywhere an answer.

http://www.eleanorlebrun.com/closure.htm

I have started to look into this question.  But I do not have all the details worked out, a work in progress.  I hope it helps a bit.

Good luck
Annette
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        Catherine Kinsey
	<ckinsey@kumc.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitted gloves
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Quoting Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu>:

> I was drooling over a friends new book this weekend that had great pics
> of, if I remember correctly, 3 pairs of knitted gloves.  One of the
> earliest pairs was red.  He got it at a museum in Bavaria on a trip last
> fall so the text is in Germany.  Haven't had a chance to search around
> and see if it is available outside the museum but here is the info I
> copied down:
>
> Textile Schatze aus Renaissance und Barock Bayerisches National Museum
> Birgitt Borkopp-Restle
> Bavarian National Museum
>

Cool.  My kid is going to Germany this summer -- how much of the book is
pre-1600 ... and how much does it cost?  I'm always interested in books
wit cool pictures of embroidery and *stuff*!

Thanks,
Susan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Quoting Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>:

> Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>>
>> OK.  thanks to the evil woman who pointed out the MFA in Boston site,
>> I've been drooling there for *far* too long.
>>
>> Count Richelieu's gloves intrigue me.  Are there examples of knitted
>> gloves *before* 1600?
>
> There's a pair of red knitted silk and metal thread 15th-century 
> pontifical gloves and one silk and metal knitted 13th-century 
> archbishop's glove in Textile Conservation and Research by Mechtild 
> Flury-Lemberg.
>
Cool.  If the "red knitted silk and metal thread" are the ones at the
V&A, I just found them.

Thanks!
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Status: RO

He didn't remember the exact price with the exchange rate, thought it
might be around $35 US.

There were also a lot of full-page color photos of fabrics from the
period it was covering, which was late 16/early 17C, and into the 17th
C.  My interests are more 16th C but I was still thinking of getting
it.

Hope that helps,
Catherine

>>> "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com> 02/08/06 9:51 AM >>>
Quoting Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu>:

> I was drooling over a friends new book this weekend that had great
pics
> of, if I remember correctly, 3 pairs of knitted gloves.  One of the
> earliest pairs was red.  He got it at a museum in Bavaria on a trip
last
> fall so the text is in Germany.  Haven't had a chance to search
around
> and see if it is available outside the museum but here is the info I
> copied down:
>
> Textile Schatze aus Renaissance und Barock Bayerisches National
Museum
> Birgitt Borkopp-Restle
> Bavarian National Museum
>

Cool.  My kid is going to Germany this summer -- how much of the book
is
pre-1600 ... and how much does it cost?  I'm always interested in
books
wit cool pictures of embroidery and *stuff*!

Thanks,
Susan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice
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Hi Katherine,
Yum yum, thanks for posting the link. Oh god, i cant stand those 
embroideries :-)
Its a mans waistcoat 1780-90 my guess. Feather patterns was very sheek in 
the 80ies.............
Cant help with the tappestries.
Even though it looks very inspired from India it could have ben made 
anywhere in Europe, perhaps France?

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "katherine sanders" <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 10:36 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice


> Hi everyone!
>
> I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
> tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
> think they have more of a clue than "north european,
> possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
> queries on them.
>
> More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite
> embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early
> 19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The
> construction is well illustrated by the photos as is
> the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've
> suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from
> light and other clothes in an acid-neutral
> environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's
> costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by
> India but I couldn't tell you why...
>
> http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/
>
> They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you
> can help :-)
>
> Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh
>
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Photos - NEW, now offering a quality print service from just 8p a 
> photo http://uk.photos.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 10:45:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Still looking for the danish wedding outfit with glove link, sorry. :(

http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=SM.nav&UUID=D69CF392-BC32-4DBD-8CBCA2C0FF8D78DF

http://www.davidrumsey.com/amico/amico934716-18548.html

http://www.geocities.com/stiobhard/glove.html

http://www.gloveassociation.org

http://search.concealedgarments.org/highlights.jsp;jsessionid=2ey8fk54bf5yi

This image of a glove:

http://search.concealedgarments.org/results.jsp?highlight=4


Gloves
London, Batsford. 1982. Cummings, Valerie.
(Starts at 1600. Cover Elizabethan gloves, and has reproduction of
mid-17th-century patterns for gloves)


Compte de l'Argenterie du Roi annee 1610: Rendus, par Me. Pierre
Dela Bruyere Argentier. Sacre du Roy Louis Treize. A Pierre Robin
Marchand de Drap - et Jean Royer Marchand drapier la somme de 17316
- 17 - 69...pour les fournitures qu'ils ont faits pour ; Paris C.
1715 [Paris, c. 1715]

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 16:45 08/02/2006, you wrote:
>Still looking for the danish wedding outfit with glove link, sorry. :(
>
>http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=SM.nav&UUID=D69CF392-BC32-4DBD-8CBCA2C0FF8D78DF
>
>http://www.davidrumsey.com/amico/amico934716-18548.html
>
>http://www.geocities.com/stiobhard/glove.html
>
>http://www.gloveassociation.org
>
>http://search.concealedgarments.org/highlights.jsp;jsessionid=2ey8fk54bf5yi
>
>This image of a glove:
>
>http://search.concealedgarments.org/results.jsp?highlight=4
>
>
>Gloves
>London, Batsford. 1982. Cummings, Valerie.
>(Starts at 1600. Cover Elizabethan gloves, and has reproduction of
>mid-17th-century patterns for gloves)
>
>
>Compte de l'Argenterie du Roi annee 1610: Rendus, par Me. Pierre
>Dela Bruyere Argentier. Sacre du Roy Louis Treize. A Pierre Robin
>Marchand de Drap - et Jean Royer Marchand drapier la somme de 17316
>- 17 - 69...pour les fournitures qu'ils ont faits pour ; Paris C.
>1715 [Paris, c. 1715]


Thank you Francesca. Some of these I got off your links page, but 
some are new. All are helpful for me to talk to my customer. I'm very grateful.

Suzi


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It's somewhat dated but this might have something of use...

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/histshoe/redfern/index.htm

Marc


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Burger King costumes
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Thank you. Me too.

If Creepy Plastic Guy showed up at my place, I'ld have no recourse other
than to beat him to death with a baseball bat.

eeeeeyuuuuu (shivers!)

(Sorry, no costume content.)

Arlys

On Tue, 7 Feb 2006 17:52:06 -0800 Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
writes:
> That's our name for the character, "That Creepy Plastic Guy"  But I  
> have to admit to loving the commercial with the King and Darth  
> Vader.  :D
> 
> Althea

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 17:34 08/02/2006, you wrote:
>It's somewhat dated but this might have something of use...
>
>http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/histshoe/redfern/index.htm
>
>Marc


Marc

That is an amazing site - thank you - it has given me more ideas, as 
I was hoping to find something not quite so fancy as so many are, and 
there are some great examples there.

I'm beginning to look forward to these now, even though I have a few 
jobs to finish first!

Thanks again

Suzi


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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 12:21:43 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Kinda found where it used to live ...

http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/catalogue/ContactSheet.php?QueryName=BasicQuery&QueryPage=%2Fcostume%2Fcatalogue%2Findex.php&Anywhere=SummaryData%7CAdmWebMetadata&QueryTerms=glove&QueryOption=Anywhere&Submit=Search&StartAt=41


On Wed, February 8, 2006 10:45 am, Chiara Francesca Arianna
d'Onofrio said:
> Still looking for the danish wedding outfit with glove link, sorry.
> :(
>
> http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=SM.nav&UUID=D69CF392-BC32-4DBD-8CBCA2C0FF8D78DF
>
> http://www.davidrumsey.com/amico/amico934716-18548.html
>
> http://www.geocities.com/stiobhard/glove.html
>
> http://www.gloveassociation.org
>
> http://search.concealedgarments.org/highlights.jsp;jsessionid=2ey8fk54bf5yi
>
> This image of a glove:
>
> http://search.concealedgarments.org/results.jsp?highlight=4
>
>
> Gloves
> London, Batsford. 1982. Cummings, Valerie.
> (Starts at 1600. Cover Elizabethan gloves, and has reproduction of
> mid-17th-century patterns for gloves)
>
>
> Compte de l'Argenterie du Roi annee 1610: Rendus, par Me. Pierre
> Dela Bruyere Argentier. Sacre du Roy Louis Treize. A Pierre Robin
> Marchand de Drap - et Jean Royer Marchand drapier la somme de 17316
> - 17 - 69...pour les fournitures qu'ils ont faits pour ; Paris C.
> 1715 [Paris, c. 1715]
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


Chiara
http://groups.yahoo.com/subscribe/societyofstanne

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Katherine,

	I would suggest the waistcoat is between 1790 and 1800, just at the
change of fashion from Georgian to Regency. The embroidery very much harks
to the Georgian, in that it is so colourful in execution, and quite heavy in
design. The sprigging, however, gives it away as Regency, as this was very
much part of the Regency motif, as does the ivory silk.

	The cut of the waistcoat is also indicative of early Regency. It
retains a slightly longer waist, with pointed fronts and large pockets, all
of which are Georgian influences. We see the fronts of waistcoats straighten
as Regency fashion takes hold, and pockets become smaller. 

	As to the banners, I'd need a little more information as to
dimensions. I would suggest these may not be banners, rather orphry bands,
definitely ecclesiastical. Without being able to examine the banners in
person, or having better detailed close-ups, it looks as though the first in
the series is perhaps Opus Anglicanum, done in needlepainting and some or
nue. In which case this is likely very valuable, museum piece, likely worked
on a wool/silk ground with silk threads and gold. I would suggest this is
late, rather than early Opus Anglicanum, perhaps 14th or 15th century. The
figure work here is very fluid, and the execution of fills and the or nue
quite skilled. I'd also suggest this was done in a professional embroidery
house.

	The second is earlier, I think, and is unfinished. But, again,
without being able to examine the piece, or having better images, it is
difficult to tell. There is a great deal of water damage here. The figures
seem a bit stiffer in form, and so I'd hazard a guess at 13th century. The
cartoons are clearly visible here, which would indicate either an unfinished
piece, or a severely damaged piece.

 	The third is a puzzle. It looks as though it's edged with damaged
green silk velvet, and has no taper to it at all, which would suggest not an
orphry, perhaps rather part of the outside edge of an altar frontal. The
figures are quite crude, reminiscent of very early opus anglicanum, so
perhaps 11th century or earlier. But, again, without being able to examine
the piece, I'm only stabbing in the dark. I'd need to be able to look at the
textiles themselves to ascertain material content, etc., in order to give a
more educated opinion. These could be very well done modern pieces made to
look older.

	Whatever you do, you're going to have to be sure to use only the
best quality conservator's materials. There is quite a range of thought on
restoration/preservation/conservation. At the very least you can use
conservator's gauze to stabilize those areas that are in the worst repair.

	Just my thoughts.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fine drawing?
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Hi Dawn,
Gosh i never read that chapter, i surely will now. I dont understand this 
fine-drawing thing either. Never heard it. Dont you think they just mean 
that you have to press the seams to the sides and iron?  I have never seen 
any stitches used on the right side of the back pieces.
In the american book Costume Close Up there are sewing instruktions two of a 
mans coat. Only types of stitches used is: back stitches, point á rabattre 
sous la main and slanted hemming stitches.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 4:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing?


> I'm trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ for 
> the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent hardcover 
> edition)
>
> "The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong side and then 
> fine-drawing on the right, working from the skirt opening upwards."
>
>
> Backstitching I understand, but "fine-drawing" has me lost. I found two 
> references online that seem to suggest it is a method for joining fabric 
> by butting the edges together, but that doesn't work with a seam that's 
> already backstitched... does it?
>
> Can anyone clarify this for me?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.0.20060208082843.01dd6ec8@127.0.0.1><20060208143940.QFZB9108.eastrmmtao06.cox.net@ANNESCOMPUTER>
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Subject: Re: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 18:08:37 +0100
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Hi Chiara,
The danish wedding? Is it the reconstrukted renaissance wedding dress from 
Kronborg?
The link is here:
http://www.ses.dk/sofiegalleri/
But there is no link to any gloves, or did i miss something?

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:45 PM
Subject: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> Still looking for the danish wedding outfit with glove link, sorry. :(
>
> http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=SM.nav&UUID=D69CF392-BC32-4DBD-8CBCA2C0FF8D78DF
>
> http://www.davidrumsey.com/amico/amico934716-18548.html
>
> http://www.geocities.com/stiobhard/glove.html
>
> http://www.gloveassociation.org
>
> http://search.concealedgarments.org/highlights.jsp;jsessionid=2ey8fk54bf5yi
>
> This image of a glove:
>
> http://search.concealedgarments.org/results.jsp?highlight=4
>
>
> Gloves
> London, Batsford. 1982. Cummings, Valerie.
> (Starts at 1600. Cover Elizabethan gloves, and has reproduction of
> mid-17th-century patterns for gloves)
>
>
> Compte de l'Argenterie du Roi annee 1610: Rendus, par Me. Pierre
> Dela Bruyere Argentier. Sacre du Roy Louis Treize. A Pierre Robin
> Marchand de Drap - et Jean Royer Marchand drapier la somme de 17316
> - 17 - 69...pour les fournitures qu'ils ont faits pour ; Paris C.
> 1715 [Paris, c. 1715]
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2006 18:48:55 +0100
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice
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On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 09:36:49 +0000 (GMT), katherine sanders  
<katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
> tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
> think they have more of a clue than "north european,
> possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
> queries on them.
> http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/

 From what I can see in the photoes, I'd hassard that the first one might  
be maybe as early as 1350, but most likely 15thC. The colors are more or  
less compatible with mid 14thC english embroideries in the V&A.On the  
other hand, there is the golden/apricot color and what looks like orange.  
Do you have any idea if the golden shades might be faded madder reds or if  
it was golden all along ? I can't make out the stitches properly, but it  
looks like an Opus Anglicanum piece from what I see. The goldwork  
background used here seems to be a more common feature of the 15thC than  
the 14th from what I've seen over the years. There is a cope in Historisk  
Museum her in Oslo with an embroidered band bearing a superficial  
resemblance to this piece btw.

The halfdone or very worn banner is hard to tell due to the stitches not  
being very visible.And too little of the pattern and colors are seen. Is  
it the back piece of the one above ? Or a separate one ?

The 3rd one is the first I've seen with green velvet. Lots of apricot or  
faded madder reds, but too blurry to tell much. Opus Anglicanum work and  
couched gold background in different patterns ? The colors look more  
french than english to me, but as I can't see the details close enough...

Thanks for posting these, I'd love to see these close up. Do you have any  
better detailed photoes ? Know anything about their history or origin ?

Gunvor


-- 
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice
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Status: RO

Katherine, my "gut instinct" on the waistcoat is late 18th century, but I'm no expert.  The curator of the Valentine museum in Richmond, VA (whose name is escaping me at the moment, it's been a few years) was quite studied on men's shirts and waiscoats of the 18th and 19th centuries and could probably give a more educated time frame.  

HTH--

LuAnn (who agrees these items are absolutely lovely...thanks for sharing)
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: katherine sanders<mailto:katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk> 
  To: h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com> 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 1:36 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice


  Hi everyone!

  I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
  tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
  think they have more of a clue than "north european,
  possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
  queries on them.

  More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite
  embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early
  19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The
  construction is well illustrated by the photos as is
  the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've
  suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from
  light and other clothes in an acid-neutral
  environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's
  costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by
  India but I couldn't tell you why...

  http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/<http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/>

  They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you
  can help :-)

  Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh

  "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
  annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright



  ___________________________________________________________ 
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> As to the banners, I'd need a little more information as to
> dimensions. I would suggest these may not be banners, rather orphry bands,
> definitely ecclesiastical.

Ah, that was my first thought too, but it was just a hunch so kept quiet. 

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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 13:01:35 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you Bjarne but no, this is not the one.

It was a men's waist coat and gloves from the 17th century. It is
buried in my collection of glove links that I really need to clean
out.

But thank you for the link! Lovely dress. :)

Chiara

On Wed, February 8, 2006 11:08 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews said:
> Hi Chiara,
> The danish wedding? Is it the reconstrukted renaissance wedding
> dress from
> Kronborg?
> The link is here:
> http://www.ses.dk/sofiegalleri/
> But there is no link to any gloves, or did i miss something?
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:45 PM
> Subject: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
>
>
>> Still looking for the danish wedding outfit with glove link,
>> sorry. :(
>>
>> http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=SM.nav&UUID=D69CF392-BC32-4DBD-8CBCA2C0FF8D78DF
>>
>> http://www.davidrumsey.com/amico/amico934716-18548.html
>>
>> http://www.geocities.com/stiobhard/glove.html
>>
>> http://www.gloveassociation.org
>>
>> http://search.concealedgarments.org/highlights.jsp;jsessionid=2ey8fk54bf5yi
>>
>> This image of a glove:
>>
>> http://search.concealedgarments.org/results.jsp?highlight=4
>>
>>
>> Gloves
>> London, Batsford. 1982. Cummings, Valerie.
>> (Starts at 1600. Cover Elizabethan gloves, and has reproduction of
>> mid-17th-century patterns for gloves)
>>
>>
>> Compte de l'Argenterie du Roi annee 1610: Rendus, par Me. Pierre
>> Dela Bruyere Argentier. Sacre du Roy Louis Treize. A Pierre Robin
>> Marchand de Drap - et Jean Royer Marchand drapier la somme de
>> 17316
>> - 17 - 69...pour les fournitures qu'ils ont faits pour ; Paris C.
>> 1715 [Paris, c. 1715]
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Franchesca Havas
----------------------------------------

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword
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Kids I know generally have wood, padded and then covered with leather. 
Works for both swords and axes, and looks period as well as being 
relatively safe.

Jean


Shane & Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote
>Hello everyone!
>
>I'm forwarding this on behalf of someone on another list; I figured folks
>here would have an idea or two. :-)
>------------------------------
>Snip to relevent question:
>
>> On another note, friends of mine are looking for a safe dagger / short
>sword for the enjoyment of their young son.  (Safe - as in will not puncture
>or perforate another person, causing welts upon older brother is considered
>acceptable use)   They do not want the cheap plastic junk found at
>halloween.  I vaguely remember someone posting on a forum about a rubber
>dagger, seems to me it was made out of a similar material to that of hockey
>pucks.  But unfortunately I cannot seem to find where I saw it.  If anyone
>knows what I'm talking about, please let me know.
>
>------------------------------
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Sheridan
>
>
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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> I'm trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ for
> the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent hardcover
> edition)
>
> "The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong side and then
> fine-drawing on the right, working from the skirt opening upwards."

Dawn, Bjarne,

I assumed that norah Waugh was using modern (possibly tailor's)
terminology to describe what she saw.  The expression wasnt in my
jargon, either.

I took it to mean blind catch stitching.  I got an mid-19thc mans
frock coat in my collection out and examined it. (Oldest relevant
thing I have.)  It has that same small inserted bit i the skirting,
near the CB.  The amount of skirting is obvious much less than the
1750s.  The tailor of this 19th c jacket, formed the pleat, then,
working from the inside, did a catch-stitch abt 1/2 to 1 cm from the
fold to permanently shape the pleat.  (Cant quite tell without ripping
the lining.)
Cut of Men's Clothes says to so this working from the hem towards the
waist. I my experiments, I discovered that doing so keeps the hang in
the right spot as errors magnify going hem-wards.
Here's an amazingly bad ASCII drawing:

                           inside of garment
                                             /------cb------\ right side pleat
 catch stitches at this point ^    \               /
------------------------------------------------             
-------------------------

                             outside of garment, viewer would be here

Clear as mud?

Originally, I thought it might be tailor's jargon for a french seam,
but, as I had cut the jacket, the skirt almost-CB seam was hidden
behind the pleats.

Why dont you ask the Savile Row guy who runs to the cutting &
tailoring blog?  Post the answer for us, too.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Hi Marc,
Gosh thanks a lot. You have made my days a head now. Lady Herringtons gloves 
has bullion roses........BULLION ROSES..............
Tada tada..........
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> It's somewhat dated but this might have something of use...
>
> http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/histshoe/redfern/index.htm
>
> Marc
>
>
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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 11:36:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Leslie Mundy <LizzieM@rocketmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword (Shane & Sheridan)
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Hello, Sheridan.

Mr.Olan Knight of Knighthawk Armoury can probably help
you find just what you need in a latex weapon.

Here's the link:

http://www.latex-weaponry.com/

--Leslie



Leslie Mundy, DCC  Office Hours: M-W-F Noon-5:00
John Carter Brown Library, Box 1894, Brown University
Providence, RI 

Just think...
"Somewhere a butterfly, dreaming that it is Chuang Chou,
flutters its wings and creates a distant hurricane."
http://NewMoon2000.tripod.com/oneway/indexnavigator.html

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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fine drawing?
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I  am  going to hazzard a guess here as a seamstress, not as an
authority  on  18th century men's wear.  I would think that the
fine  drawing may mean a fine gathering stitch used to make the
upper  layer  lay  flat.  I have done many curved seams though,
and  never  needed  to  use that  method,  but  it does help in
getting  sleeves  into  armholes  (hidden  gathering stitch, of
course).  Just a possibility.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
--- "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 17:32:19 +0100
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fine drawing?
Hi Dawn,
Gosh  i  never  read  that  chapter,  i surely will now. I dont
understand this
fine-drawing  thing either. Never heard it. Dont you think they
just mean
that  you have to press the seams to the sides and iron? I have
never seen
any stitches used on the right side of the back pieces.
In  the  american  book  Costume  Close  Up  there  are  sewing
instruktions two of a
mans coat. Only types of stitches used is: back stitches, point
Ã¡ rabattre
sous la main and slanted hemming stitches.
Bjarne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 4:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing?
>  I'm  trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's
Clothes_ for
>  the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent
hardcover
> edition)
>
>  "The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong
side and then
>  fine-drawing  on  the  right, working from the skirt opening
upwards."
>
>
> Backstitching I understand, but "fine-drawing" has me lost. I
found two
>  references  online  that  seem to suggest it is a method for
joining fabric
>  by  butting the edges together, but that doesn't work with a
seam that's
> already backstitched... does it?
>
> Can anyone clarify this for me?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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Hello again!

As I said earlier, I don't actually know of a book on the "history of fastenings", and I haven't specifically researched the questions you ask, but I am chronically unable to stick to one outfit/time-period in my costuming, so here's an overview of what I've picked up about the subject:

I haven't done much research before the 1400s so I can't talk about anything before then, however in the _Museum of London: Clothing and Textiles_ book it shows fabric buttons on the sleeves of the gothic fitted dresses (usually referred to as cotehardies in the SCA). The book has enough instructions for how to make the fabric buttons, that I have done so based simply on that book. Somewhere I read that metal buttons could/were used on the front of the over-dresses (but I can't come up with an extant example off the top of my head) but that the buttons were so expensive that sometimes people would not attach the metal buttons but instead lace the buttons onto the dress via holes such as for lacing up the front of the dress. Unfortunately I can't remember _where_ I read this so I have no idea how reliable the source is. The _Museum of London_ book also shows hand-made eyelets for lacing down the front closure of the gothic fitted dress. I'm sure Robin has many more sources fo!
 r this period then I do :-)

Italian Rennisance (~1480-1530) seems to be mostly lacing for women's dresses (both front/side openings and sleeves) based off of Elizabeth Birbari's _Dress in Italian Painting: 1460-1500_ and Jen Thompson's research http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/flornotes/flornotes.html . Sometimes the buttons were laced though decorative metal eyelet-things (http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/earlyflor/3flor5.html) rather then thread bound eyelet holes. Occasionally the paintings use gold coloring for the eyelet holes which suggests metal eyelets, however I don't think there are any extant, and metal eyelets were first patented somewhere in the 1825-40 range (and don't come into use for corsets until then). 

Hooks and eyes were used extensively in the dresses Janet Arnold studied in the late 1500s, and I seem to remember a picture from the late-1400s early-1500s showing hook and eyes at the neck. I'm sure it's been discussed on this list before, but I'm not coming up with any web links to it. The hooks and eyes look very similar to modern hooks and eyes, though a bit heavier to my eye. Many of the buttons in the dresses Arnold studies are thread covered -- there is a description for how to do it: http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_buttons.htm I have not used these instructions myself, but a friend did. She said they took ~20 minutes per button to make. And lacing is still used to close some bodices (e.g. the Elenore de Toledo burial dress).

At Costume College 2003 there was a class on Medieval and Rennisance fastenings, which was fascinating, but there were neither handouts, nor can I find a reference to it on-line, so I can't tell you who the teacher was...Not very helpful, I know!

Fastenings for women's regency dress are predominantly drawstrings, pins and some buttons. The drawers (if worn) are tied together, the chemise has a drawstring (in what little info I could find for chemises), there aren't many extant petticoat/under dress things, but the one c1825 in _History of Underclothes_ by the Cunningtons' buttons together. All three closure methods can be seen on the outer dress, plus frogs for women's coats. My extant 1824 bodice has both a drawstring around the neck and buttons down the back.

Fastenings for women's Victorian (1860s and 1870s) dress uses hooks and eyes far more then you would expect (there are times when the bodice closure is hooks and eyes but the bodice has buttons sewn on for decoration).  However you do see back lacing for some ball gowns, and occasionally front lacing for dinner dresses, but most closures are center front and either hooks and eyes or buttons. The one petticoat I have from this period has both a drawstring and a button (however I'm not 100% convinced that the drawstring wasn't added later - I am suspicious that the petticoat was used in a theatre production...). Chemises may have no closure, or may be buttoned. I can't remember about drawers...

Gibson Girl (1890s) through teens (based on my small collection of vintage women's garments) uses both hooks and eyes and snaps on the dresses. Buttons seem to be mostly decorative, though I do not own a tailored suit from that period, and I would guess those used button closures. FYI, there are many books that cover buttons in this time period, as they were a decorative element. I have 2 petticoats from this period, both have drawstring waists. The corset cover I have has a button front, and the butt-pad I have has ties for around the waist.

Hope that helps!
	-sunny

P.S. I do not know when buttons + loops were used -- all button references here are to buttons and buttonholes.


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing
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I perhaps didnt realise wich part of the suit you have read that fine 
drawing should be used.
Is it for the slash you make at the top of the back vent opening, to make an 
extra pleat? Then she perhaps is meaning that this seam should be very 
accurately made with tiny stitches, to hold well, as there only is very 
little seam allowance here. For my gustavian suit, wich has this slash and 
extra pleat, i whipstitched the parts together, with very fine stitches. It 
perhaps is one of the most difficult places on a coat to make.........

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: fine drawing?
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>> I'm trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ for
>> the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent hardcover
>> edition)
>>
>> "The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong side and 
>> then
>> fine-drawing on the right, working from the skirt opening upwards."

The only definitions to fine-drawing that I can find are these:

To repair a garment by invisible mending

Fine-draw: To sew or close up, as a rent or seam, so delicately that joining 
cannot be noticed.

 ... to mend (torn edges) by drawing together with invisible stitches.


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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> I perhaps didnt realise wich part of the suit you have read that fine 
> drawing should be used.
> Is it for the slash you make at the top of the back vent opening, to 
> make an extra pleat? 


It's for joining the center back seam above the pleats "working from the 
skirt opening upwards". The instructions for the pleats are in the next 
paragraph.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>:

> Hi Marc,
> Gosh thanks a lot. You have made my days a head now. Lady Herringtons 
> gloves has bullion roses........BULLION ROSES..............

Oh, wow!  Is there a date for those?  Looks like it *might* be late 16th
C.

Susan

BTW, Marc, your link to "Hawking glove of Henry VIII is broken.  :-(


-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 sunshine_buchler@agilent.com wrote:

> I haven't done much research before the 1400s so I can't talk about
> anything before then, however in the _Museum of London: Clothing and
> Textiles_ book it shows fabric buttons on the sleeves of the gothic
> fitted dresses (usually referred to as cotehardies in the SCA). The
> book has enough instructions for how to make the fabric buttons, that
> I have done so based simply on that book. Somewhere I read that metal
> buttons could/were used on the front of the over-dresses (but I can't
> come up with an extant example off the top of my head) but that the
> buttons were so expensive that sometimes people would not attach the
> metal buttons but instead lace the buttons onto the dress via holes
> such as for lacing up the front of the dress. Unfortunately I can't
> remember _where_ I read this so I have no idea how reliable the source
> is. The _Museum of London_ book also shows hand-made eyelets for
> lacing down the front closure of the gothic fitted dress. I'm sure
> Robin has many more sources for this period then I do :-)

Maybe not, but I'll elaborate where I can ;-) 

First, I think it's important to distinguish layers here. Buttoning down
the front of a dress seems to be typical only of the outer layer (the
layer that might actually have been called a cotehardie in French) but not
the inner layer (the fitted supportive dress, which could be worn alone or
with an overdress). Laced fronts seem pretty much universal on the
supportive (inner or single) layer. Sometimes the lacing is visible in
images; sometimes it is not, which could simply mean that the artists did
not conventionally render it, not that it was necessarily invisible to the
eye. (I have never seen evidence of a back lacing of the supportive dress;
if anyone ever finds such evidence, I'd like to see it.)

Next, you need to distinguish time and place. Buttons down the front of
overdresses seem to be common only in certain periods and regions -- I
have this sense of seeing them much more often in English sources than
French, for instance, and more often in the earlier versions of the fitted
overdresses (say, to 1390 or so) than in the later ones.

There also seems to be a regional/temporal variance in preference for
whether to use buttons to fit the sleeves, and how many/how far up the
arm. You can see a few buttons at the wrist or partway up the forearm
quite early in the 14th c., with the upper half of the sleeve not fitted;
then later you see the buttons go up past the elbow, making the entire
sleeve fitted. Sometimes there are no visible buttons, suggesting that
lacing or sewing-in was used to tighten the sleeves to the arm; in fact,
buttons on the sleeve seem relatively rare after 1400 or so, but the
sleeves remain extremely tight.

The next distinction to make is class. The buttons you use would reflect
the money you have to spend. The fabric buttons in the MOL's "Textiles and
Clothing" book have gotten so much attention that some people don't
realize that there's a much larger sample set of surviving buttons of
other materials: metal, bone, horn (I think). Many examples of these are
reproduced in the MOL's "Dress Accessories" book. I'd have to look up the
various options, but I would expect wood to have been equally likely.
Also, bear in mind that we don't know what kinds of garments the fabric
buttons (or, for that matter, the laced eyelets) from the MOL book came
from -- it is probably more likely that they are from a lower-class tunic
than from a middle- or upper-class fitted dress, and equally likely to be
from a man's garment as a woman's.  If you've got an upper-class dress,
you might want to think twice before doing fabric buttons. In particular,
I don't think I'd choose fabric buttons for the front of a buttoned fitted
overdress, which is an expensive garment; anyone wearing it could have
afforded metal or another material.

Bottom line: To determine whether and how to use buttons, lacing, etc.,
figure out what place, time, style, and class you're focusing on, and look
specifically at sources that are the closest possible match. Remember that
even in one style (in this case the fitted dress of 1350-1450) there are
numerous variations in such things as bust height, skirt width, and
neckline depth, as well as button/lacing use; ideally you would use a
combination of features that are all consistent with a single
period/place/class, not mixed-and-matched over a hundred-year stretch.
(People of the period would no doubt have been as aware of these
differences as we are of things like modern hemline length or waist height
or shoulder size, which all vary over the years in modern fashions.)

Oh, about those buttons attached through eyelet holes: This was apparently
a means of attaching the buttons in some garments. The buttons were not
sewn to the cloth, but were put through eyelets and then threaded through
a ribbon on the inside. As far as I know the other part of the garment had
conventional buttonholes, and was buttoned up as usual. It's suggested
that this made it easier to remove the buttons for washing or for transfer
to another garment (or to sell or give away). In any case, it does seem
this would be a way of reducing wear to the cloth, and a logical move from
the existing technology of lacing (which goes back at least to the 12th
c.) to buttons.

> Hooks and eyes were used extensively in the dresses Janet Arnold
> studied in the late 1500s, and I seem to remember a picture from the
> late-1400s early-1500s showing hook and eyes at the neck. 

The image was of a famous court fool, I believe, but I forget who and
when.

> P.S. I do not know when buttons + loops were used -- all button
> references here are to buttons and buttonholes.

I have never seen any evidence for them in the Middle Ages, though a lot
of people seem to assume them as a default. I have no idea why.

--Robin

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Hi all, I forget who it was who was interested in a 19th C Pinker.  There is another up on eBay  right now.  You will find it listed under Sewing tools.  This looks to be pretty much the same as the one I found two weeks ago.

Kathleen
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Hello!

De-lurking for a moment . . .

While perusing the web, I stumbled onto something called Italian linen,
which can be found here:

http://tinyurl.com/a826d
Does anyone know how this would compare to Irish linen? Or is it just a
different name for the same thing? 

Kate McClure
Grand Pooh-Bah
Beyond Reality Costumers Guild
www.brcg.org

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Hello again!

As I said earlier, I don't actually know of a book on the "history of fastenings", and I haven't specifically researched the questions you ask, but I am chronically unable to stick to one outfit/time-period in my costuming, so here's an overview of what I've picked up about the subject:

I haven't done much research before the 1400s so I can't talk about anything before then, however in the _Museum of London: Clothing and Textiles_ book it shows fabric buttons on the sleeves of the gothic fitted dresses (usually referred to as cotehardies in the SCA). The book has enough instructions for how to make the fabric buttons, that I have done so based simply on that book. Somewhere I read that metal buttons could/were used on the front of the over-dresses (but I can't come up with an extant example off the top of my head) but that the buttons were so expensive that sometimes people would not attach the metal buttons but instead lace the buttons onto the dress via holes such as for lacing up the front of the dress. Unfortunately I can't remember _where_ I read this so I have no idea how reliable the source is. The _Museum of London_ book also shows hand-made eyelets for lacing down the front closure of the gothic fitted dress. I'm sure Robin has many more sources fo!
 r this period then I do :-)

Italian Rennisance (~1480-1530) seems to be mostly lacing for women's dresses (both front/side openings and sleeves) based off of Elizabeth Birbari's _Dress in Italian Painting: 1460-1500_ and Jen Thompson's research http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/flornotes/flornotes.html . Sometimes the buttons were laced though decorative metal eyelet-things (http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/earlyflor/3flor5.html) rather then thread bound eyelet holes. Occasionally the paintings use gold coloring for the eyelet holes which suggests metal eyelets, however I don't think there are any extant, and metal eyelets were first patented somewhere in the 1825-40 range (and don't come into use for corsets until then). 

Hooks and eyes were used extensively in the dresses Janet Arnold studied in the late 1500s, and I seem to remember a picture from the late-1400s early-1500s showing hook and eyes at the neck. I'm sure it's been discussed on this list before, but I'm not coming up with any web links to it. The hooks and eyes look very similar to modern hooks and eyes, though a bit heavier to my eye. Many of the buttons in the dresses Arnold studies are thread covered -- there is a description for how to do it: http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_buttons.htm I have not used these instructions myself, but a friend did. She said they took ~20 minutes per button to make. And lacing is still used to close some bodices (e.g. the Elenore de Toledo burial dress).

At Costume College 2003 there was a class on Medieval and Rennisance fastenings, which was fascinating, but there were neither handouts, nor can I find a reference to it on-line, so I can't tell you who the teacher was...Not very helpful, I know!

Fastenings for women's regency dress are predominantly drawstrings, pins and some buttons. The drawers (if worn) are tied together, the chemise has a drawstring (in what little info I could find for chemises), there aren't many extant petticoat/under dress things, but the one c1825 in _History of Underclothes_ by the Cunningtons' buttons together. All three closure methods can be seen on the outer dress, plus frogs for women's coats. My extant 1824 bodice has both a drawstring around the neck and buttons down the back.

Fastenings for women's Victorian (1860s and 1870s) dress uses hooks and eyes far more then you would expect (there are times when the bodice closure is hooks and eyes but the bodice has buttons sewn on for decoration).  However you do see back lacing for some ball gowns, and occasionally front lacing for dinner dresses, but most closures are center front and either hooks and eyes or buttons. The one petticoat I have from this period has both a drawstring and a button (however I'm not 100% convinced that the drawstring wasn't added later - I am suspicious that the petticoat was used in a theatre production...). Chemises may have no closure, or may be buttoned. I can't remember about drawers...

Gibson Girl (1890s) through teens (based on my small collection of vintage women's garments) uses both hooks and eyes and snaps on the dresses. Buttons seem to be mostly decorative, though I do not own a tailored suit from that period, and I would guess those used button closures. FYI, there are many books that cover buttons in this time period, as they were a decorative element. I have 2 petticoats from this period, both have drawstring waists. The corset cover I have has a button front, and the butt-pad I have has ties for around the waist.

Hope that helps!
	-sunny

P.S. I do not know when buttons + loops were used -- all button references here are to buttons and buttonholes.


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 21:07:25 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] glove cuffs
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Hi,
Forgive my ignorance, but i have no idea, and therefore ask stupid. But how 
was these scalloped cuffs for gloves made. Did they have wire in the edge, 
to make it stand?
Does anybody know wich kind of seam is used to turn these scallopes?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's got on her head in 
the Canterbury Tales:

"Hir coverchiefs ful fyne weren of ground,
I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound
That on a Sonday weren upon hir heed."

Mainly I'm wondering about the use of the word "ground" in the first 
line.  I've seen a suggestion that this could translate to mean 
"texture", as in "her coverchiefs were of a very fine texture".

The OED doesn't seem to offer any goodies, but perhaps I missed 
something--the entries for "ground" are quite long!  Does anyone have 
other information about this?

Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Child-friendly sword
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 These are inexpensive and plastic, but look pretty good:
 
http://www.anytimecostumes.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?
 
Don't forget the question mark, it's part of the url.
 
Tea Rose
------------------------------

From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
Subject: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword
------------------------------
Snip to relevent question:

> On another note, friends of mine are looking for a safe dagger / short
sword for the enjoyment of their young son.  
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: fine drawing?
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Speaking in ignorance except as a costumer who worries about vulnerable seam-ends....
If "fine drawing" doesn't refer to what Cynthia describes (and for costumes in this general period I have done those catch-stiches to stabilize the pleat),
then...
it might be a reinforcing stitching buried in the seam crease. 
I do this at exactly this point, the lower end of the CB seam just above the pleat opening.
It has to be done from the outside.
I take a small running stitch (small but not the same length as the stitching already in the seam because doubling the thread thickness in the stitching holes would be counterproductive), alternating stitch placement from one side of the seam to the other. I've never tried an AASCI drawing before, but--

assuming a vertical seam in the center of this diagram, the stitches would run
                       I_
                        _I
                       I_
                        _I
with the vertical part of the stitch inside the seam turnback and the horizontal part bridging the seam. Even if this stitch is done with double thread (which I use) it is virtually invisible once pulled (drawn) snug, but it adds good reinforcement to the vulnerable base of the seam, which can subjected to stress if the wearer sits wrong or if the fit of the body of the jacket is close-fitting. And as the quoted directions suggest, this stitching has to be done from the open end of the seam to the closed end so it doesn't distort the lie of the seam.

I have no idea what this kind of stitching is called, but if somebody says "Yes, I bet that's fine-drawing," I'll willingly call it that!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
-----Original Message-----
>From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
>Sent: Feb 8, 2006 2:19 PM
>To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] re: fine drawing?
>
>> I'm trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ for
>> the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent hardcover
>> edition)
>>
>> "The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong side and then
>> fine-drawing on the right, working from the skirt opening upwards."
>
>Dawn, Bjarne,
>
>I assumed that norah Waugh was using modern (possibly tailor's)
>terminology to describe what she saw.  The expression wasnt in my
>jargon, either.
>
>I took it to mean blind catch stitching.  I got an mid-19thc mans
>frock coat in my collection out and examined it. (Oldest relevant
>thing I have.)  It has that same small inserted bit i the skirting,
>near the CB.  The amount of skirting is obvious much less than the
>1750s.  The tailor of this 19th c jacket, formed the pleat, then,
>working from the inside, did a catch-stitch abt 1/2 to 1 cm from the
>fold to permanently shape the pleat.  (Cant quite tell without ripping
>the lining.)
>Cut of Men's Clothes says to so this working from the hem towards the
>waist. I my experiments, I discovered that doing so keeps the hang in
>the right spot as errors magnify going hem-wards.
>Here's an amazingly bad ASCII drawing:
>
>                           inside of garment
>                                             /------cb------\ right side pleat
> catch stitches at this point ^    \               /
>------------------------------------------------             
>-------------------------
>
>                             outside of garment, viewer would be here
>
>Clear as mud?
>
>Originally, I thought it might be tailor's jargon for a french seam,
>but, as I had cut the jacket, the skirt almost-CB seam was hidden
>behind the pleats.
>
>Why dont you ask the Savile Row guy who runs to the cutting &
>tailoring blog?  Post the answer for us, too.
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery dating
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This sounds really exciting. What an experience to be able to see and handle such stuff!

..... and am I the only one in a peculiar mood today, or did anyone else look at the subject line and think, "Embroidery dating -- how to help your embroidery find its perfect soul mate?" I think it's entirely too close to Valentine's Day....



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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 23:22:25 +0000 (GMT)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery dating - more info on the banners.
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Thank you to everyone who has helped so far: there is
a lot of gold work that fits in with the or nue
technique, so here is a more detailed description.  (I
have rejigged the photos - 1 to 8 is banner one, 9
onwards banner two).

There are two banners and I forgot to measure them
when I 'met' them on Monday. They are maybe less then
1m long and no more than 25-30cm wide. One has been
surrounded by braid and velvet which I do not think is
original but could be old-ish.  

What I found intriguing is the construction which you
can partly see because the linen backing is loose
where the thread has disappeared. There are two
banners, one of which is more complex than the other.

1. Photos 1 to 8. This has not been bordered by the
velvet. There are TWO layers of fabric embroidered -
the top one has the geometric design and stumpwork, as
well as the couched gold thread. Some thread is
silver? (and has turned black) but there is a lot of
gold. The background around the figures is in a
diamond or herringbone textured pattern, while a lot
of the figures has been sewn through the two layers in
the colourful silk which you can see in pictures on
the figures clothing and hair. Stumpwork forms the
uprights of the architectural columns but I think this
was covered in metal thread - it looks like crazy fine
wire now blackened. The bottom figure which is only
waist length is part of a different piece of fabric -
you can feel the join - and there is no 'temple'
design above it. Also the colour of the thread is
different. The cords down the border edge of this
panel are couched down and you can see bits of gold on
them.  The shots of the 'ghostly' figures are actually
the back of this panel, rather than one unfinished.
The silk hasn't faded here and there are some
shockingly strong crimsons as well as peachy reds.
Between the two layers of this is a crackled paste
which seems to join and stiffen the original fabric -
linen?

Banner two has been joined loosely to the green velvet
which is worn in places so re-used. I'm not aware of
velvet vestments in my own (Orthodox) church but
perhaps other traditions vary? There is no stumpwork
an much less gold. The style of the haloes is very
different and the background although still geometric,
is not so elaborate as the first. Here there are also
two layers joined by a (now cracked) paste but I don't
want to open it more than a few stitches which have
already dissolved.

I hope this is of help for those knowledgeable souls
who've been kind enough to help so far!

Thanks again,
Katherine


"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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On Wed, 8 Feb 2006, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's got on her head in 
> the Canterbury Tales:
> 
> "Hir coverchiefs ful fyne weren of ground,
> I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound
> That on a Sonday weren upon hir heed."
> 
> Mainly I'm wondering about the use of the word "ground" in the first 
> line.  I've seen a suggestion that this could translate to mean 
> "texture", as in "her coverchiefs were of a very fine texture".

I've always read it as meaning "of a very fine material"; probably echoing
in my mind with the use you hear in "embroidery ground" as meaning the
base fabric on which embroidery is done.

I have no idea whether this reading is justified; I've never much thought
about it!

--Robin

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I  have been indulging guilty pleasures. 
 
 
 
I got the newly issued DVD of "Dune"....another film much hated but I love  
because I don't find it confusing [and I've never read the books] and again  
beautifully and perfectly designed by Bob Ringwood. Each planet has a look that  
has one foot firmly planted in an historical period. The Emperor's court 
looks  like a space age Spanish Renaissance court. The doomed House Atrates bears 
more  than a passing resemblance to Nicolas and Alexandria. The nasty House  
Harkonan is all plastic and protective wear but the Baron's reevers and collar  
on his vinyl coat look like a cross between Napoleon and Mad King George.
 
 [The "extended version" sux and is kinda like "Dune for  Dummies"...with 
everything explained to you by a narrator who sounds like a  cigar smoking 
trucker [instead of the Emperor's daughter like in the original  version. All so 
unnecessary. I liked that some things were left hanging....or  just implied]
 
 
Anyway...with its story of the oppression of a desert people because their  
planet is the only place to find the most valuable substance in the universe,  
and their holy war to gain their independence from cruel occupiers, it all had 
 very creepy overtones it didn't have when it came out. And "Arakis"...the 
name  of the planet, is way too close to "Iraq". Yikes!
 

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Subject: [h-cost] re: fine drawing
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>I perhaps didnt realise wich part of the suit you have read that fine
>drawing should be used.
>Is it for the slash you make at the top of the back vent opening, to make an
>extra pleat?

I'm not sure either. All it says is "the back". Rather vague.

>Then she perhaps is meaning that this seam should be very
>accurately made with tiny stitches, to hold well, as there only is very
>little seam allowance here.

Waugh is quoting, sometimes paraphrasing, a mid-18th c tailor's
manual. Fine drawing doesnt appear to be small stitches or
reinforcement. Waugh/Garsault usually says buckram and or interlining
if that's what she/he means. it may well be worth the original
questioner's time to find Garsault's book.  Perhaps he defines the
term.

Lalah's comment on ever so slight gather stitches may make sense at
this slash area.  I didnt use gathers as the tops of the pleats are
supposed to lie very flat. The slash (hidden by folding pleats to the
inside where it becomes the tiniest of holes) is concealed by a fancy
button.

I have a different crazy idea:  suppose Waugh is talking about the
center back seam, not the skirt vent.  If you backstitches the seam by
hand and pressed it open, the the CB, which takes alot of stress,
would only be held by 1 line of stitches.  It would be weak.

If she means, press the CB seam to the right, then blind stitch or
catch stitch the 3 layers (garment & 2 seam allowances) then there is
an element of reinforcement.
Seems like it would make the seam oddly stiff.  This is not my
favorite interpretation of the p88 paragraph.  I chose to make the
interlining strong and capable of taking all the stress of wearing.

>... For my gustavian suit, wich has this slash and
>extra pleat, i whipstitched the parts together, with very fine stitches. It
>perhaps is one of the most difficult places on a coat to make.........

Very very true!  I covered the slashed edges with the teensiest band
of silk organza to contain those stray silk satin fibres of the
garment fabric.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <21605220.1139435953984.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: fine drawing?
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 11:36:38 +1300
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> I do this at exactly this point, the lower end of the CB seam just above
the pleat opening.
> It has to be done from the outside.

> assuming a vertical seam in the center of this diagram, the stitches would
run
>                        I_
>                         _I
>                        I_
>                         _I
> I have no idea what this kind of stitching is called, but if somebody says
"Yes, I bet that's fine-drawing," I'll willingly call it that!

I have seen it refered to as ladder stitch. I use it quite often, and was my
first though when the initial instructions were to work from the outside.
It's used to sew teddy bears and the like after you have stuffed them;) I
also used it to join tabs to my doublet bodice. And sleeves to bodices if
made up seperately;)

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com
6 days of digests to go through... oh boy;)



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
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If you go to ebay's Collectibles/Vintage Sewing category, without going 
down into Tools, and search on pinking machine as two words (not a 
phrase), searching for those words in the listings as well as the 
titles, there are about ten pinking machines are listed. Which is about 
the usual number for any given day on eBay.  I've thought of getting one 
off and on.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> Hi all, I forget who it was who was interested in a 19th C Pinker.  There is another up on eBay  right now.  You will find it listed under Sewing tools.  This looks to be pretty much the same as the one I found two weeks ago.
> 
> Kathleen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
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Status: RO

Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other ways
of listing to find  one of the same for other people who might like to gain
one of these.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert


> If you go to ebay's Collectibles/Vintage Sewing category, without going
> down into Tools, and search on pinking machine as two words (not a
> phrase), searching for those words in the listings as well as the
> titles, there are about ten pinking machines are listed. Which is about
> the usual number for any given day on eBay.  I've thought of getting one
> off and on.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > Hi all, I forget who it was who was interested in a 19th C Pinker.
There is another up on eBay  right now.  You will find it listed under
Sewing tools.  This looks to be pretty much the same as the one I found two
weeks ago.
> >
> > Kathleen
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat
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Status: RO

I've also had good luck putting a wet felt hat into a ziplock bag,
still slightly open* (a closed ziplock will explode), and microwaving
it for 10-15 seconds. It skips the whole using the kettle thing but
REMEMBER steam is HOT. The hat will be hot too.

If it's an old hat you can wash it is before you steam/microwave it so
you're not putting a dirty or stained hat on your head. Wash gently
with shampoo, squeezing the water through. Rinse thoroughly.

Once it's wet and hot, gently pull the felt onto the block. You may
need some strength but don't tug. Wet felt is more fragile than dry
felt and it will tear. And then you make a smaller hat with it.

Best of luck. Making hats is really fun!

LynnD

On 2/6/06, kelly grant <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com> wrote:
> If you have a wool hat, it's incredibly easy to steam it to the shape you
> want!  You need to find something that will be a good shape for a block,
> like a flower pot. Make sure it's a good size to match your head size.
> Remove all the addition hat stuff from inside the felt, like the hat band
> and such.  Then using you kettle, steam the inside of the felt and then pull
> it down over the block. Keep trying until you get the desired shape.  the
> felt will move around quite a bit!
>
> Have fun!
> Kelly in Nova Scotia
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
> To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 10:48 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat
>
>
> > I'm going to try and make a Tudor Style tall hat with the pleated crown.
> > I
> > went to the local GoodWill and they had a hat that fitted perfectly of
> > 100%
> > wool felt. Problem is that it is a domed crown rather than square.  Is
> > there
> > a way to steam that crown and get it fairly fat?
> >
> > I intend to play with an thick interlining that I have to get the brim
> > shape, then I'll cut the actual hat brim.
> >
> > Does this sound reasonable, or does it sound like it will be more work
> > than
> > simply creating the under-structure out the interfacing and paper and
> > going
> > from there?
> >
> >
> > Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
> > Never attribute to malice what can as easily
> > be attributed to simple social ineptness
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
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I've been tempted, off and on, to bid on one of those crank models for 
pinking trimmings (I don't generally like to finish seams that way). 
That's why I've been reassured to see there's always a good selection on 
eBay (although I'm sure some of them are rusty and/or dull).

What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard 
rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that 
really works well for that?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://wwww.lavoltapress.com

Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other ways
> of listing to find  one of the same for other people who might like to gain
> one of these.
> Kathleen
>
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Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

>Perhaps I was not clear enough - when I was talking about petticoats, I meant mainly the 19th century of course. The fact is, I was asking if anyone knew a web page or a book where I could read something about fastenings in common - which kind of fastening was used in the middle ages, what in renaissance etc. 
>  For example I'd like to know when did people start to use lace as a fastening - and when buttons. and how did the buttons actually look like? Were they from the same fabric as the garment, or could they have been made of metal? For such questions it is hard to find anywhere an answer.
>  
>
>Hi. Part of the reason is that, first, there may not be an existing starting date known for what you ask, and second, different items looked different and were made of differing materials as time went on. There are periods in which, looking at illustrations, sculptures, etc., one can determine that a certain item of clothing had begun to, lets say, be fastened by being laced, but that does not mean that the technique of lacing, for example, shoes did not predate it...Different garments and clothing items have come and gone in terms of fastening. For example, there are small shoe buckles being worn on some styles of shoes up until the 1530s or so, then they go out of style up until the late 1650s 0r early 1660s. Another example would be toggles, which, for a while, were common fasteners on shoes and perhaps purses, but were never (or, at best, rarely) seen on clothing (of which I am aware)until after the periods I reenact, although their close cousins, frogs, were. Another e!
 xample would be button shapes, which changed from different historical periods as well as cultures.
>
    Any study of fastenings that wasn't done from an archaeological background (IMO), such as that book on the history of striped clothing and it's social meanings (I can't remember the title, not that it matters in the vein of this discussion)will, by it's nature, be rather incomplete and inconclusive. Most authors feel the need, one assumes, in order to sell the book to a wider audience, to make social commentary, which takes away from the purely scholarly aspect of such a work. Your best scenario, in this situation, would be to look at things on a case by case basis.There are many experts (or at least educated amateurs)within this list that can quote chapter and verse on their own areas of specialty, and assist you in their own ways. Good Luck, Mike T. 



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>From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
>BTW, Marc, your link to "Hawking glove of Henry VIII is broken.  :-(

I'll try to get it fixed tomorrow.  Thanks for the heads up.

Marc


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Checking the instructions given here, do note that all of the buy-it-now
items are art prints!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert


> If you go to ebay's Collectibles/Vintage Sewing category, without going
> down into Tools, and search on pinking machine as two words (not a
> phrase), searching for those words in the listings as well as the
> titles, there are about ten pinking machines are listed. Which is about
> the usual number for any given day on eBay.  I've thought of getting one
> off and on.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > Hi all, I forget who it was who was interested in a 19th C Pinker.
There is another up on eBay  right now.  You will find it listed under
Sewing tools.  This looks to be pretty much the same as the one I found two
weeks ago.
> >
> > Kathleen
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 21:48:47 -0500
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What I like about the nifty tool that I  got is that the edging results on
soft cotton is a rather dainty feathered effect,  On stiffer fabric, it
gives the expected sharp zig-zag- pattern.

My present project is mainly h-costume inspiration doll clothing and the
results for ruschings is  simpler but elegant strips that do not require
more ornamentation or time to turn the edges.  I have plans for Ordinary
costume seam finishing to look forward to.

Kathleen


 ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert


> I've been tempted, off and on, to bid on one of those crank models for
> pinking trimmings (I don't generally like to finish seams that way).
> That's why I've been reassured to see there's always a good selection on
> eBay (although I'm sure some of them are rusty and/or dull).
>
> What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard
> rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that
> really works well for that?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://wwww.lavoltapress.com
>
> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other
ways
> > of listing to find  one of the same for other people who might like to
gain
> > one of these.
> > Kathleen
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period fastenings
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Thanks, Annette, for putting that great link to the art work of Carlo Crivelli in your article on fastenings.   http://www.eleanorlebrun.com/closure.htm
 Not only have they collected really good reproductions of his works from all over the world, they also enable close-ups of all the interesting details.  Three other artists (who seem to be followers of his) are also on the site.  Unfortunately, it's all in Italian, sponsored I think by the region of Italy where he lived and worked, and I can't figure out if there are other artists hiding there.

Janet
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] period fastenings
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At 11:54 AM 2/8/2006, you wrote:
>At Costume College 2003 there was a class on Medieval and Rennisance 
>fastenings, which was fascinating, but there were neither handouts, nor 
>can I find a reference to it on-line, so I can't tell you who the teacher 
>was...Not very helpful, I know!


Hehe... I have a picture of the gentleman who gave that class. It was very 
good and I took many notes.

Peter Worden:
Closure in the European Renaissance
http://www.kimiko1.com/CC2003/pages/instr04_24.htm

Kimiko

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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE:Embroidery dating - more info on the banners.
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Katherine,

	Given the dimensions you have cited, these embroideries are
definitely orphry bands, not banners, worn around the neck, and over a cope,
by a priest.

>1. Photos 1 to 8. This has not been bordered by the
velvet. There are TWO layers of fabric embroidered -
the top one has the geometric design and stumpwork, as
well as the couched gold thread.

	This method was often used by professional houses in order to
complete extensive orders quickly, in that the embroidery was broken down
into parts, with embroiderers working on each part simultaneously, and then
the parts assembled. 

>Some thread is
silver? (and has turned black) but there is a lot of
gold.

	Indeed silver thread was used, not often, but it was used. There is
also the possibility some of the silver thread may in fact be inferior
quality gold thread which was applied at a later date, either as a repair,
or as an embellishment.

>The background around the figures is in a
diamond or herringbone textured pattern, while a lot
of the figures has been sewn through the two layers in
the colourful silk which you can see in pictures on
the figures clothing and hair.

	Both of these methods are typical of a great deal of opus anglicanum
done by professional houses.

>Stumpwork forms the
uprights of the architectural columns but I think this
was covered in metal thread - it looks like crazy fine
wire now blackened.

	Again, this is a common practice in a great deal of opus anglicanum.
Sometimes the stumpwork was so raised that wooden supports were underneath.

>The bottom figure which is only
waist length is part of a different piece of fabric -
you can feel the join - and there is no 'temple'
design above it.

	The entire orphry may in fact be made up of salvaged parts of other
pieces of ecclesiastical embroideries. The 'temple' as you describe it, is
common to much of opus anglicanum embroideries, known as arches. Many of the
arches were cinquefoil in design, although certainly trefoils were used to
represent the trinity.

>Also the colour of the thread is
different. The cords down the border edge of this
panel are couched down and you can see bits of gold on
them.  

	Which leads me more and more to suspect the orphry is married pieces
of salvaged embroideries. This was also a common practice, particularly in
the 17th and 18th centuries.

>Between the two layers of this is a crackled paste
which seems to join and stiffen the original fabric -
linen?

	This is fish glue, or sometimes rabbit's foot glue (inferior), used
to secure all the thread ends that would have been left after embroidering,
and to give some stiffness to the embroidery. It also becomes an excellent
food base for insects.

	Do not under any circumstances dampen the embroideries, as you will
dissolve the glue and perhaps completely destroy the embroidery. Only
professional restoration houses can undertake such a delicate operation,
done on special washing tables that support the textile which delicate
washes of de-ionized, de-mineralized water are allowed to flow and drain. It
is to be stressed this method is only used as a last resort, when a textile
is extremely dirty or infested. Otherwise fine gauze is placed over the
textile and a low-pressure vacuum used with the utmost delicacy.

>I'm not aware of
velvet vestments in my own (Orthodox) church but
perhaps other traditions vary?

	The famed and peerless Burgundian Vestments are prepared on a red
silk velvet. These date to the 15th century.

>Here there are also
two layers joined by a (now cracked) paste but I don't
want to open it more than a few stitches which have
already dissolved.

	See above.

	How is that you have come to be commissioned to restore these
pieces?

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Subject: [h-cost] A Good Woman
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Speaking of movies--I went to see "A Good Woman" last night.  For  those not 
familiar with it, it is a re-writing of Oscar Wilde's "Lady  Windemere's Fan" 
set in Italy in the 1930s.  It is visually stunning--great  clothes, and they 
even figure in the plot!  And the screenwriters kept the  great Oscar Wilde 
zingers.  Stephen Hunter, the Washington Post critic,  likened it to moving 
around the furniture--the lines are there, but perhaps in  different places.
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Very OT: Cheat Sheet
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Status: RO

This is very off topic but I thought maybe this could save you some time... so that you could do some sewing, chatting on h-costume, or other important things in life.  

I heard this on the news yesterday.  A website has a cheat sheet on how to get a real live human-being on the phone when dialing a frequently called businesses and govt. offices in the U.S.  This bypasses most prompts and you really get to speak to a person!

Cheat Sheets at Get Human.com : http://www.gethuman.com/us/ 

Please feel free to pass this URL on to your friends.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 10:43:47 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
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Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of pinking/dagging scissors--a variety of designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them advertised only in art-supply catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to paper. I'm always tempted to try a pair, but I can't decide among  wavy-cut, deep pink, deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated dags...and can't afford to buy them all!
Again: maybe no good for fabric....Has anybody tried them?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>Sent: Feb 8, 2006 8:40 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
>
>I've been tempted, off and on, to bid on one of those crank models for 
>pinking trimmings (I don't generally like to finish seams that way). 
>That's why I've been reassured to see there's always a good selection on 
>eBay (although I'm sure some of them are rusty and/or dull).
>
>What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard 
>rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that 
>really works well for that?
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press
>http://wwww.lavoltapress.com
>
>Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
>> Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other ways
>> of listing to find  one of the same for other people who might like to gain
>> one of these.
>> Kathleen
>>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Feb  9 11:03:06 2006
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 11:00:04 -0500
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Ah alas, these are for paper Only. I have a friend that uses a rotary cutter
that comes with a variety of blades for fancy cuts.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert


> Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of pinking/dagging scissors--a variety
of designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them advertised only in
art-supply catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to paper. I'm
always tempted to try a pair, but I can't decide among  wavy-cut, deep pink,
deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated dags...and can't afford to
buy them all!
> Again: maybe no good for fabric....Has anybody tried them?
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> >Sent: Feb 8, 2006 8:40 PM
> >To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
> >
> >I've been tempted, off and on, to bid on one of those crank models for
> >pinking trimmings (I don't generally like to finish seams that way).
> >That's why I've been reassured to see there's always a good selection on
> >eBay (although I'm sure some of them are rusty and/or dull).
> >
> >What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard
> >rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that
> >really works well for that?
> >
> >Fran
> >Lavolta Press
> >http://wwww.lavoltapress.com
> >
> >Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> >
> >> Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other
ways
> >> of listing to find  one of the same for other people who might like to
gain
> >> one of these.
> >> Kathleen
> >>
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Burger King costumes
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Maybe I was reading into the lyrics, but it seemed to me that there was 
an "ask the freaky king for a whopper your way" line in there.

liz young

otsisto wrote:
> Of late their commercials are a bit weird IMO. And the King character creeps
> me out.
> De
> Former McDonald's crew.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Dawn,
> 
> My husband told me there was an interesting commerical from Burger King that
> I would like.
> 
> During the mid-1970s, I worked at Burger King for 2 years of high school and
> one year of Jr. College.  My kids hate it when I special order Whoppers.
> When I worked there "Have it your way!" was our slogan.  And we were not to
> complain.  I guess the advertising world is similar to the Fashion World,
> "What goes around, comes around."  Probably with film-making too... this ad
> looks very Busby Berkley-ish.
> 
> My favorite was the onion costume.
> 
> Penny E. Ladnier
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 10:36:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Ah alas, these are for paper Only. I have a friend that uses a rotary
> cutter
> that comes with a variety of blades for fancy cuts.


I bought a wavy rotary cutter to use for 18th c. edging.  I haven't used
it on a whole outfit but the inital testing worked well.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Subject: [h-cost] re: embroidery dating - more info...
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Status: RO

Dear Lorina

[much snippage!]

Thank you so much for all your help - I have spent a
few hours researching "orphrey" bands and copes and
can see how closely these resemble the 15C museum
pieces on the web. Wow. I knew they were special but I
think, after all, that they are extremely special and
definitely museum quality pieces, whether they've been
faffed about after construction or not.

>Only professional restoration houses can undertake
>such a delicate operation,

I am recommending that I do absolutely nothing to them
(reluctantly) since they are way beyond the original
inquiry, which was just to sew bits of them back up so
they could be hung on the wall again... !! I've put my
client in touch with professional conservators who are
qualified to deal with such amazing pieces and a
framer who can put it into a suitable acid-neutral
environment behind UV-proof glass. (unless, of course,
he decides to donate them to a museum. Since the V&A
haven't even acknowledged the last thing he sent I
have my doubts).


>How is that you have come to be commissioned to
>restore these pieces?

Ah - the customer also collects antique books and
these were part of a collection owned by a late friend
of his. His bookbinder (an amazing craftsman) is a
friend of mine and when he asked if said bookbinder
knew anyone who could carefully sew things together...
  I've previously done repairs to vestments in church,
matching brocade motifs invisibly etc., since charcoal
sparks have a fatal attraction for the front of the
priest's phelonion (or cape)!

Since I'm even worrying about the small repairs to an
1870s bustle outfit I have just bought, there's no way
I'd touch these. I'm going to try and sketch them and
take more notes though, since they are truly
droolsome. When I've done that, I'll be sure to let
you all know so you can 'visit' again.

Cheers, I'm truly grateful,
Katherine

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


	
	
		
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Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 20:20:21 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: embroidery dating - more info...
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Status: RO

At 20:00 09/02/2006, you wrote:
>Dear Lorina
>
>[much snippage!]
>
>Thank you so much for all your help - I have spent a
>few hours researching "orphrey" bands and copes and
>can see how closely these resemble the 15C museum
>pieces on the web. Wow. I knew they were special but I
>think, after all, that they are extremely special and
>definitely museum quality pieces, whether they've been
>faffed about after construction or not.
>
> >Only professional restoration houses can undertake
> >such a delicate operation,
>
>I am recommending that I do absolutely nothing to them
>(reluctantly) since they are way beyond the original
>inquiry, which was just to sew bits of them back up so
>they could be hung on the wall again... !! I've put my
>client in touch with professional conservators who are
>qualified to deal with such amazing pieces and a
>framer who can put it into a suitable acid-neutral
>environment behind UV-proof glass. (unless, of course,
>he decides to donate them to a museum. Since the V&A
>haven't even acknowledged the last thing he sent I
>have my doubts).
>
>
> >How is that you have come to be commissioned to
> >restore these pieces?
>
>Ah - the customer also collects antique books and
>these were part of a collection owned by a late friend
>of his. His bookbinder (an amazing craftsman) is a
>friend of mine and when he asked if said bookbinder
>knew anyone who could carefully sew things together...
>   I've previously done repairs to vestments in church,
>matching brocade motifs invisibly etc., since charcoal
>sparks have a fatal attraction for the front of the
>priest's phelonion (or cape)!
>
>Since I'm even worrying about the small repairs to an
>1870s bustle outfit I have just bought, there's no way
>I'd touch these. I'm going to try and sketch them and
>take more notes though, since they are truly
>droolsome. When I've done that, I'll be sure to let
>you all know so you can 'visit' again.


Katherine

Any chance of taking a pattern off that waistcoat while you have 
access to it. Even the front would be good.

'Scuse my cheek!

Suzi


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(What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard
rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that
really works well for that?  Fran)

I recently bought a lovely reproduction 18th century pinking tool from Dan
Brown of Green Man Forge. It was $40.  He will resharpen for $10.  He can
make any shape pinker you want. Here's his web site:
http://www.greenmanforge.com/.  I wanted to use some pinked edges on my new
18th century patterns for Simplicity. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a cheap
alternative that would be readily available.   Can't you just imagine people
looking at the back of the pattern envelope and seeing that a special-order
$40 tool was required!

As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have one
that actually works?  Many years ago I was at a huge costume company (now
defunct) called Brooks Van Horne.  They had several pinking machines and
they were a PAIN.  They were always dull and full of lint and chewed your
seam allowances to heck.  Maybe that's because everybody used them and
nobody cleaned or sharpened them?

Martha


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: pinking shears
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In a message dated 2/9/06 7:04:48 PM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> And 
> how would you sharpen something like that anyway?

When I got my first pair of pinking shears (just normal zig-zaggy ones) I was 
told they can be professionally sharpened once, and that's it - any more and 
they can't guaratee that the teeth will still meet
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] pinker alert
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 17:54:27 -0600
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I have found that the scalloped worked okay on broadcloth and lightweight.
It was used for the decorative parts of a costume. It may have been that
they became dull with their first use because there were times the edge was
fray checked before the cut and so, they did not cut heavy material, kind of
gnawed the edge.
De

-----Original Message-----
Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of pinking/dagging scissors--a variety of
designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them advertised only in art-supply
catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to paper. I'm always tempted
to try a pair, but I can't decide among  wavy-cut, deep pink,
deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated dags...and can't afford to
buy them all!
Again: maybe no good for fabric....Has anybody tried them?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] pinker alert- fancy sissors
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I used the really fancy edged ones on fabric which had
been applied to lightweight fusible glue.  It made a
nice edge and the fusible didn't seem to gum up the
blades at all.

--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> I have found that the scalloped worked okay on
> broadcloth and lightweight.
> It was used for the decorative parts of a costume.
> It may have been that
> they became dull with their first use because there
> were times the edge was
> fray checked before the cut and so, they did not cut
> heavy material, kind of
> gnawed the edge.
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of
> pinking/dagging scissors--a variety of
> designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them
> advertised only in art-supply
> catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to
> paper. I'm always tempted
> to try a pair, but I can't decide among  wavy-cut,
> deep pink,
> deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated
> dags...and can't afford to
> buy them all!
> Again: maybe no good for fabric....Has anybody tried
> them?
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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From: "Carolann Schmitt" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 19:26:21 -0500
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<<As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have one
that actually works?>>  

I do. Works like a charm, but apparently mine was maintained properly.

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Linen
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I believe I actually ordered a swatch of this.  It was not very fine, 
but rather more like the Russian medium weight linen you get at 
http://www.fabrics-store.com/
But this is not to say all Italian Linen is like this. The swatch 
service is fast and cheap and totally worth the money....

Sg
McClure, Kate wrote:

>Hello!
>
>De-lurking for a moment . . .
>
>While perusing the web, I stumbled onto something called Italian linen,
>which can be found here:
>
>http://tinyurl.com/a826d
>Does anyone know how this would compare to Irish linen? Or is it just a
>different name for the same thing? 
>
>Kate McClure
>Grand Pooh-Bah
>Beyond Reality Costumers Guild
>www.brcg.org
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>

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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I asked my son, who is studing midieval lit, if he had
any ideas. He wants to know the line reference for
this passage so he can read it in context.

--- Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:

> I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's
> got on her head in 
> the Canterbury Tales:
> 
> "Hir coverchiefs ful fyne weren of ground,
> I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound
> That on a Sonday weren upon hir heed."
> 
> Mainly I'm wondering about the use of the word
> "ground" in the first 
> line.  I've seen a suggestion that this could
> translate to mean 
> "texture", as in "her coverchiefs were of a very
> fine texture".
> 
> The OED doesn't seem to offer any goodies, but
> perhaps I missed 
> something--the entries for "ground" are quite long! 
> Does anyone have 
> other information about this?
> 
> Thanks,
> Melanie Schuessler
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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> --- Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
> 
> > I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's
> > got on her head ...

Just occurred to me, Laura Hodges would certainly have addressed this in
her book on "Chaucer and Costume," which has chapters on most or all of
the secular pilgrims. (The religious and academic pilgrims are addressed
in the sequel, "Chaucer and Clothing.")

(Melanie, you may have already met Laura at K'zoo, and she'll be there
this year too.)

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking
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and my 'new' one sure works like new.  I was surprised how sharp the cut
was..
kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carolann Schmitt" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 7:26 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking


> <<As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have
one
> that actually works?>>
>
> I do. Works like a charm, but apparently mine was maintained properly.
>
> Carolann Schmitt
> cschmitt@genteelarts.com
> www.genteelarts.com
> Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking
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Well, have any of you had a problem using someone else's scissors?  It is
kid of like a lefty using mine, or me using theirs.  Some how, using a
person's cutting tool  is never quite like using one's own.

kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 6:02 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking


>
>
> (What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard
> rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that
> really works well for that?  Fran)
>
> I recently bought a lovely reproduction 18th century pinking tool from Dan
> Brown of Green Man Forge. It was $40.  He will resharpen for $10.  He can
> make any shape pinker you want. Here's his web site:
> http://www.greenmanforge.com/.  I wanted to use some pinked edges on my
new
> 18th century patterns for Simplicity. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a
cheap
> alternative that would be readily available.   Can't you just imagine
people
> looking at the back of the pattern envelope and seeing that a
special-order
> $40 tool was required!
>
> As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have one
> that actually works?  Many years ago I was at a huge costume company (now
> defunct) called Brooks Van Horne.  They had several pinking machines and
> they were a PAIN.  They were always dull and full of lint and chewed your
> seam allowances to heck.  Maybe that's because everybody used them and
> nobody cleaned or sharpened them?
>
> Martha
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone 
knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the 
Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator 
friend, and see what I can see.

Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course 
find out what I'll be allowed to see!!

A very excited Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] O.T. re Washington DC 
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Sorry, got distracted booking the flights, and forgot to put a header.


>I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone 
>knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the 
>Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator 
>friend, and see what I can see.
>
>Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course 
>find out what I'll be allowed to see!!
>
>A very excited Suzi
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] O.T. re Washington DC 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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What period are you interested in?  I can make some suggestions.  
 
I don't think there are any reasonably priced hotels within walking  
distance, but you can look for an outlying hotel that is either near a Metro  stop or 
has shuttle service to a Metro stop.  There is also a hostel  somewhere in 
downtown DC--I'm sure you can find that through a web search.
 
If you are interested in early 19th century, please come see us at  
Riversdale--we are a historic house museum that interprets primarily  1801-1821.  Alas, 
we have no costume collection.  We are on a bus line  that comes from a Metro 
stop.
 
Ann Wass
Riversdale House Museum
4811 Riverdale Rd.
Riverdale Park MD 20737
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Fri, 10 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone
> knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the
> Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator
> friend, and see what I can see.

If I still lived there, I'd offer to have you stay with me! But I moved
six years ago, sorry.

I don't think there's such a thing as a not-too-expensive hotel within
walking distance of the Smithsonian! It is located in the middle of all
the federal buildings, and the hotels I can think of near there are
extraordinarily ritzy.

Fortunately the public transit in Washington is quite civilized, and the
bulk of the Smithsonian museums (located on the Mall) are served by three
stops: the Smithsonian stop at the west, the Archives at the Northeast,
and L'Enfant Plaza at the south.  The Portrait Museum and the American Art
museum are a bit further north from the Mall, and served by the Gallery
Place stop.

So whatever line you come in on, you are not too far.  Just make sure you
stay at a hotel that is walking distance from a Metro stop! You can find
some quite reasonable in Arlington (on the Virginia side) and Rockville
(on the Maryland side); anything in Virginia on a Metro line will be
rather closer to the Smithsonian and have a shorter ride.

> Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course 
> find out what I'll be allowed to see!!

Don't forget the National Gallery, which is operated separately from the
Smithsonian (and of much more interest to me from a costume standpoint);
it is also located on the Mall, at the Archives end. There are also a
number of private collections of art and artifacts, including the Textile
Museum, scattered around town, some harder to reach than others.

Your focus will depend on your period of interest. For instance, for
people interested in medieval Europe, I usually recommend the National
Gallery, the Library of Congress, the Folger Shakespeare Library (for
Elizabethan), Dumbarton Oaks (for Byzantine in particular), the National
Cathedral (for its bookstore), and the Walters Art Gallery in Baltimore --
in other words, not the Smithsonian at all.

--Robin


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At 13:54 10/02/2006, you wrote:
>What period are you interested in?  I can make some suggestions.
>
>I don't think there are any reasonably priced hotels within walking
>distance, but you can look for an outlying hotel that is either near 
>a Metro  stop or
>has shuttle service to a Metro stop.  There is also a hostel  somewhere in
>downtown DC--I'm sure you can find that through a web search.
>
>If you are interested in early 19th century, please come see us at
>Riversdale--we are a historic house museum that interprets 
>primarily  1801-1821.  Alas,
>we have no costume collection.  We are on a bus line  that comes from a Metro
>stop.
>
>Ann Wass
>Riversdale House Museum
>4811 Riverdale Rd.
>Riverdale Park MD 20737


Ann

That's a lovely invitation - thank you.

I'm interested in most periods, as I make everything except 20th 
century and modern. It will rather depend on how long we are in 
Washington - yet to be decided in consultation with our hostess.

Suzi


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I made a whole slew of those fringed fleece boas that were popular a 
couple years ago, with the intention of selling them all.  I did sell a 
few on ebay but am stuck now with about 25-30 of them and no one wants 
them anymore.  Does anyone have any ideas about an organization I might 
donate them to?  They're really warm but unfortunately, went out of 
style really fast.

Sylrog

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In a message dated 2/10/2006 9:10:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:

> Don't forget the National Gallery,

A truly great art museum....with a room full of el Grecos, 4 Vermeers, a 
portrait by Leonardo and one by Holbein [you see those all the time, right? :-P] 
my fave Gainsborough [Mrs. Sheridan] and Whistler's "Symphony in White". And 
the East Wing has a room of Calder sculptures and lots of Rothkos, which I love. 
I think around the time you're there a big Rousseau exhibit will be there 
too. 

None of that had to do with costume and clothes but this does....

You MUST see the Museum of the American Indian!!! It is amazing! And full of 
amazing garments. It's so beautiful, even before you walk in. It's right next 
to the smooth, shiny, sleek, rectangular, right-angled, polished stone Air and 
Space museum. But it is earthy yellow, rough hewn, curving, with zero right 
angles. There is flowing and cascading water all around and it was landscaped 
with maize and tobacco. Inside, everything is designed. The exhibits are 
unusual and beautiful.
There isn't one for clothes but garments are everywhere...mainly in the 
tribal religion exhibits on the 4th floor.

 My fave garment is from a Northern Canadian tribe: a parka made of seal 
intestine. It looks just like a regular parka: y'know mid thigh length and a hood 
and all. But it's composed of horizontal strips a few inches wide that are 
translucent, like wax paper. I'll bet it's water proof.  And a South American 
tribe weaves these cotton poncho-like shirts with intricate 3-D geometrics in 
white on white woven into the fabric. So beautiful! I want one.

The cafeteria and gift shop have unusual and wonderful stuff [but of course 
expensive...but, what the hell, you only live once]. A friend of mine had just 
had a baby; I almost got her a cradle board for her papoose. [I should have]

Anyway..have fun!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-donating to charity
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What a shame!  All that work and investment just sitting around without 
a home.

If you don't find a "human" home for them, maybe you can donate them to 
the local humane society, they can probably use them as "snuggle toys" 
for the caged critters.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 10, 2006, at 11:04 AM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I made a whole slew of those fringed fleece boas that were popular a 
> couple years ago, with the intention of selling them all.  I did sell 
> a few on ebay but am stuck now with about 25-30 of them and no one 
> wants them anymore.  Does anyone have any ideas about an organization 
> I might donate them to?  They're really warm but unfortunately, went 
> out of style really fast.
>
> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
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My family relies on Hotel Harrington.  It's basically 2 blocks from everything.  
1 blocks to the Old Post office for good cheap food. 
2 blocks from Fords Theater and Hard Rock CafÃ©
1.5 blocks to the nearest metro station
2 blocks from Museum of Natural History and the rest of the Smithsonian.
http://www.hotel-harrington.com/mapdrivingdirections.htm

The rates are of course a little more expensive then a Motel 6 in the middle of nowhere but we haven't yet found anything cheaper and more conveniently located.  If you've got a group going you can't beat some of their larger room prices.  I always recommend this to friends and family.  We've never had any problems walking around at night and since it's so close to everything we save quite a bit on transportation.

Small note.  The parking garage is a few blocks away.  We unload at the hotel and then send someone to go park the car while the others check in.  Once you park just leave the car until your stay is over.  There's no reason to try driving around DC if you don't have to.

BjÇ«rn Arnaldsson 
 
Lord Bjorn Arnaldsson
Barony of Black Diamond 
 



>Message: 5
>Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 13:09:41 +0000
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Subject: [h-cost] O.T.
>To: h-costume@indra.com
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>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>
>
>I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone 
>knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the 
>Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator 
>friend, and see what I can see.
>
>Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course 
>find out what I'll be allowed to see!!
>
>A very excited Suzi

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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-donating to charity
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Could you possibly transform them into something else?
What if you sewed them in rows onto a base and made a
fluffy throw? Or a floor pillow?  Cut them up the
middle and you have fringe you could apply to another
block of fleece and make a poncho.  

--- Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:

> I made a whole slew of those fringed fleece boas
> that were popular a 
> couple years ago, with the intention of selling them
> all.  I did sell a 
> few on ebay but am stuck now with about 25-30 of
> them and no one wants 
> them anymore.  Does anyone have any ideas about an
> organization I might 
> donate them to?  They're really warm but
> unfortunately, went out of 
> style really fast.
> 
> Sylrog
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I made a whole slew of those fringed fleece boas that were popular a 
> couple years ago, with the intention of selling them all.  I did sell a 
> few on ebay but am stuck now with about 25-30 of them and no one wants 
> them anymore.  Does anyone have any ideas about an organization I might 
> donate them to?  They're really warm but unfortunately, went out of 
> style really fast.

My suggestion would be a senior center or shelter that hands out coats 
in the winter. Scarves would probably be welcome there, too. Sometimes 
radio stations do coat drives, if you called around you might get 
contact info. You can also look for the Freecycle group in your area 
(freecycle.org) and ask on the message board. I see folks from smaller 
charities on our group all the time.


Dawn


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To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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Could 'ground' refer to a ground fabric in the embroidery sense of the
word? In this period, likely being linen?

Arlys, who hasn't a clue

On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 16:34:19 -0600 Melanie Schuessler
<melanie@faucet.net> writes:
> I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's got on her head 
> in 
> the Canterbury Tales:
> 
> "Hir coverchiefs ful fyne weren of ground,
> I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound
> That on a Sonday weren upon hir heed."
> 
> Mainly I'm wondering about the use of the word "ground" in the first 
> 
> line.  I've seen a suggestion that this could translate to mean 
> "texture", as in "her coverchiefs were of a very fine texture".
> 
> The OED doesn't seem to offer any goodies, but perhaps I missed 
> something--the entries for "ground" are quite long!  Does anyone 
> have 
> other information about this?
> 
> Thanks,
> Melanie Schuessler
> 
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ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:

> Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of pinking/dagging scissors--a variety of designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them advertised only in art-supply catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to paper. I'm always tempted to try a pair, but I can't decide among  wavy-cut, deep pink, deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated dags...and can't afford to buy them all!
> Again: maybe no good for fabric....Has anybody tried them?
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner

I have a pair I bought when I made my wedding invitations, and I didn't 
think they were all that good on paper. The handles were small and hurt 
my hands -- though they cut ok -- I found them unpleasant to use. They 
probably would have worked on fabric when new, but they won't now. And 
how would you sharpen something like that anyway?



Dawn



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Status: RO

I heard that too, and thought like you that maybe I was reading that into
the lyrics.  I feel he is creepy too.

Steph

Maybe I was reading into the lyrics, but it seemed to me that there was
> an "ask the freaky king for a whopper your way" line in there.
>
> liz young
>
> otsisto wrote:
>> Of late their commercials are a bit weird IMO. And the King character
>> creeps
>> me out.
>> De
>> Former McDonald's crew.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> Dawn,
>>
>> My husband told me there was an interesting commerical from Burger King
>> that
>> I would like.
>>
>> During the mid-1970s, I worked at Burger King for 2 years of high school
>> and
>> one year of Jr. College.  My kids hate it when I special order Whoppers.
>> When I worked there "Have it your way!" was our slogan.  And we were not
>> to
>> complain.  I guess the advertising world is similar to the Fashion
>> World,
>> "What goes around, comes around."  Probably with film-making too... this
>> ad
>> looks very Busby Berkley-ish.
>>
>> My favorite was the onion costume.
>>
>> Penny E. Ladnier
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>


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Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 12:41:31 -0500
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From: Dawn Luckham <dluckham@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Help Identify 19th Century Painting
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Hello,

I'm trying very hard to identify the artist in this painting. The only
information that I have is " the artist and his brother 1839". Does anyone
recognize this? I've broken the address up so it will process through the 
list.  Is there a better way to do this?  Suzi has already been so kind  to 
suggest Pre-Raphaelite painters.  I also have a vague thought of the German 
(or Austrian?) schools but extensive searching has still not helped.

http:/

/photobucket.

com/albums/v320/DLuckham/Drawn%20Bonnet/?action=view&current=artistandbrother1839.jpg

Thanks so much for any help you can give,
Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] O.T.
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At 14:36 10/02/2006, you wrote:

>On Fri, 10 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> > I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone
> > knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the
> > Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator
> > friend, and see what I can see.
>
>If I still lived there, I'd offer to have you stay with me! But I moved
>six years ago, sorry.
>
>I don't think there's such a thing as a not-too-expensive hotel within
>walking distance of the Smithsonian! It is located in the middle of all
>the federal buildings, and the hotels I can think of near there are
>extraordinarily ritzy.
>
>Fortunately the public transit in Washington is quite civilized, and the
>bulk of the Smithsonian museums (located on the Mall) are served by three
>stops: the Smithsonian stop at the west, the Archives at the Northeast,
>and L'Enfant Plaza at the south.  The Portrait Museum and the American Art
>museum are a bit further north from the Mall, and served by the Gallery
>Place stop.
>
>So whatever line you come in on, you are not too far.  Just make sure you
>stay at a hotel that is walking distance from a Metro stop! You can find
>some quite reasonable in Arlington (on the Virginia side) and Rockville
>(on the Maryland side); anything in Virginia on a Metro line will be
>rather closer to the Smithsonian and have a shorter ride.
>
> > Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course
> > find out what I'll be allowed to see!!
>
>Don't forget the National Gallery, which is operated separately from the
>Smithsonian (and of much more interest to me from a costume standpoint);
>it is also located on the Mall, at the Archives end. There are also a
>number of private collections of art and artifacts, including the Textile
>Museum, scattered around town, some harder to reach than others.
>
>Your focus will depend on your period of interest. For instance, for
>people interested in medieval Europe, I usually recommend the National
>Gallery, the Library of Congress, the Folger Shakespeare Library (for
>Elizabethan), Dumbarton Oaks (for Byzantine in particular), the National
>Cathedral (for its bookstore), and the Walters Art Gallery in Baltimore --
>in other words, not the Smithsonian at all.


Thanks so much for the advice. I don't have any particular period of 
interest - as a professional costumer I simply make what I am paid 
for! So as I am so short of time (hopefully there will be more time 
another trip) I just want to catch what I can!

As I live in London, and manage to get to Europe a lot (the Louvre, 
the Prado etc) I don't really need to see European stuff. (Or 
Tudor/Shakespeare for that matter - born and bred in Warwickshire!). 
I suppose I mostly make Georgian costume, in all its years, including 
Regency of course.

I think I like making corsets most, so maybe that should be my focus 
- I don't know - I know there is so much out there just waiting to be 
seen - decisions, decisions.)

Suzi


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Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 12:40:15 -0800
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune
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At 02:40 PM 2/8/2006, you wrote:
>I got the newly issued DVD of "Dune"....another film much hated but I love
>because I don't find it confusing [and I've never read the books]


While I really enjoyed both sets of movies (SciFi version, and the original 
movie with extended info), the books are so much better imho. If you 
haven't read them, do, at least the first three books. I've read most of 
that series, and the first three are much better, with the story going 
whacky imho after that.

But I will also admit to enjoying the SciFi movie costumes very much, even 
if the storylines are a bit changed. It's been a long while since I saw the 
original movie (when it came out in the theatre, and again when the 
extended aired on tv although I vaguely watched it because I was working), 
so I won't comment there.

Kimiko


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Hi, 
Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair? I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they wore really tall, complicated hairstyles? 
 
Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by Trasko? Is it any good?
 
Thanks!
Tea Rose
 
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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Rebecca wrote:
>I asked my son, who is studing midieval lit, if he had
> any ideas. He wants to know the line reference for
> this passage so he can read it in context.

The lines are #453-455 in the General Prologue.  The wife's description is 
between that of the physician and the parson.
             -Helen/Aidan 

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REBECCA BURCH wrote:
> I asked my son, who is studing midieval lit, if he had
> any ideas. He wants to know the line reference for
> this passage so he can read it in context.

In the copy I have it's line 453 and following.

Thanks,
Melanie

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In a message dated 2/10/2006 11:18:32 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

And full  of 
amazing garments.


They have just opened an exhibit that focuses on the Northwest Coast  tribes, 
so there are wonderful hats and button blankets, among other  things.  I 
haven't been to the museum yet, but will definitely go to see  this exhibit.
 
Ann Wass
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 12:00:21 -0700
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I don't know how extensive this article is but I just found it last
night looking for something else. 

http://www.housebarra.com/EP/ep04/08romanhair.html

Hope it's at least a starting point. 

Keri-Anne
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of tearoses@aol.com
Sent: February 9, 2006 2:16 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles


Hi, 
Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair?
I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they
wore really tall, complicated hairstyles? 
 
Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by
Trasko? Is it any good?
 
Thanks!
Tea Rose
 
 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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Robin Netherton wrote:

> Just occurred to me, Laura Hodges would certainly have addressed this in
> her book on "Chaucer and Costume," which has chapters on most or all of
> the secular pilgrims. (The religious and academic pilgrims are addressed
> in the sequel, "Chaucer and Clothing.")
> 
> (Melanie, you may have already met Laura at K'zoo, and she'll be there
> this year too.)

:)  Yes, I thought of that book, and how I don't have it.

Thanks,
Melanie

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Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 17:01:17 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Washington DC
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At 16:36 10/02/2006, you wrote:
>My family relies on Hotel Harrington.  It's 
>basically 2 blocks from everything.
>1 blocks to the Old Post office for good cheap food.
>2 blocks from Fords Theater and Hard Rock CafÃ©
>1.5 blocks to the nearest metro station
>2 blocks from Museum of Natural History and the rest of the Smithsonian.
>http://www.hotel-harrington.com/mapdrivingdirections.htm
>
>The rates are of course a little more expensive 
>then a Motel 6 in the middle of nowhere but we 
>haven't yet found anything cheaper and more 
>conveniently located.  If you've got a group 
>going you can't beat some of their larger room 
>prices.  I always recommend this to friends and 
>family.  We've never had any problems walking 
>around at night and since it's so close to 
>everything we save quite a bit on transportation.
>
>Small note.  The parking garage is a few blocks 
>away.  We unload at the hotel and then send 
>someone to go park the car while the others 
>check in.  Once you park just leave the car 
>until your stay is over.  There's no reason to 
>try driving around DC if you don't have to.

Thank you - that's very helpful. Parking won't be 
a problem - we fly in from London, spend a couple 
of days in Washington, and then go to stay with our friend.

Suzi 



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] O.T.
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 10:57:51 -0500
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We are contemplating on a trip there at about the same time.  My husband has
been cruising the B&B sites and has actually found one or two slightly under
$100, with easy access to PT. Perhaps another resource.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 9:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] O.T.


>
> On Fri, 10 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> > I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone
> > knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the
> > Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator
> > friend, and see what I can see.
>
> If I still lived there, I'd offer to have you stay with me! But I moved
> six years ago, sorry.
>
> I don't think there's such a thing as a not-too-expensive hotel within
> walking distance of the Smithsonian! It is located in the middle of all
> the federal buildings, and the hotels I can think of near there are
> extraordinarily ritzy.
>
> Fortunately the public transit in Washington is quite civilized, and the
> bulk of the Smithsonian museums (located on the Mall) are served by three
> stops: the Smithsonian stop at the west, the Archives at the Northeast,
> and L'Enfant Plaza at the south.  The Portrait Museum and the American Art
> museum are a bit further north from the Mall, and served by the Gallery
> Place stop.
>
> So whatever line you come in on, you are not too far.  Just make sure you
> stay at a hotel that is walking distance from a Metro stop! You can find
> some quite reasonable in Arlington (on the Virginia side) and Rockville
> (on the Maryland side); anything in Virginia on a Metro line will be
> rather closer to the Smithsonian and have a shorter ride.
>
> > Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course
> > find out what I'll be allowed to see!!
>
> Don't forget the National Gallery, which is operated separately from the
> Smithsonian (and of much more interest to me from a costume standpoint);
> it is also located on the Mall, at the Archives end. There are also a
> number of private collections of art and artifacts, including the Textile
> Museum, scattered around town, some harder to reach than others.
>
> Your focus will depend on your period of interest. For instance, for
> people interested in medieval Europe, I usually recommend the National
> Gallery, the Library of Congress, the Folger Shakespeare Library (for
> Elizabethan), Dumbarton Oaks (for Byzantine in particular), the National
> Cathedral (for its bookstore), and the Walters Art Gallery in Baltimore --
> in other words, not the Smithsonian at all.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
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Here are a bunch of Roman images.
 
Some women's busts ['Carry my bust with pride!"] show a variety of  
hairstyles.
 
 
_Roman  Clothing II Images_ 
(http://www.vroma.org/~bmcmanus/clothing_images.html)  
 
 
_http://www.vroma.org/~bmcmanus/clothing_images.html_ 
(http://www.vroma.org/~bmcmanus/clothing_images.html) 
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Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 23:27:08 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking
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At 23:02 09/02/2006, you wrote:


>(What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard
>rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that
>really works well for that?  Fran)


I have pinking tools that are about the size of the top of my thumb, 
one with zigzags, and one with tiny curves, which is lovely. I also 
have a couple of others - all antiques. Someone made one for me, but 
it is heavy and not really quite as easy to use as the "real" ones. 
Unfortunately they all could do with a bit of sharpening, and I 
really don't want to send them to the U.S  just for that - I will 
have to try and find someone in England who can do it  properly.

Suzi


>I recently bought a lovely reproduction 18th century pinking tool from Dan
>Brown of Green Man Forge. It was $40.  He will resharpen for $10.  He can
>make any shape pinker you want. Here's his web site:
>http://www.greenmanforge.com/.  I wanted to use some pinked edges on my new
>18th century patterns for Simplicity. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a cheap
>alternative that would be readily available.   Can't you just imagine people
>looking at the back of the pattern envelope and seeing that a special-order
>$40 tool was required!
>
>As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have one
>that actually works?  Many years ago I was at a huge costume company (now
>defunct) called Brooks Van Horne.  They had several pinking machines and
>they were a PAIN.  They were always dull and full of lint and chewed your
>seam allowances to heck.  Maybe that's because everybody used them and
>nobody cleaned or sharpened them?
>
>Martha


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
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Try watching the latest series on HBO or Cimemax, Called Ceasar. It's great. 
It portrays all the nasty things people think but pretend don't happen in 
society. Just proves that nothing is new, even sexual orientation, 
seduction, powergrabs and political arrangements through sex. The costumes 
are very period. It has regional sources and difference of class as well. I 
love it.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 4:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles


> Hi,
> Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair? 
> I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they wore 
> really tall, complicated hairstyles?
>
> Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by 
> Trasko? Is it any good?
>
> Thanks!
> Tea Rose
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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In a message dated 2/10/2006 2:47:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
zeartiste@hotmail.com writes:

Try  watching the latest series on HBO or Cimemax, Called Ceasar. 


But if you want hairstyles on film.....you cannot beat Fellini's  "Satyricon".
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] 16th Century Effigies - loops!
References: <011801c62899$9d3bb100$6400a8c0@Penny>
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To America and back....  I passed this on to my sister, who works for 
Hampshire Council's library service.  Their local studies department 
hadn't heard of the project and send their thanks back round the loop 
for the information!

Jean


Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote
>Passing this alone from another list...
>
>Good news! A brand new research resource for c16th dress arrives on line - a
>pilot database of images is available at:
>
>http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies
>
>This is the first stage of a project to photograph and make available
>photographs of Tudor effigies in UK churches. The pilot database contains 44
>effigies with photographs of items and features of dress. This represents
>about two per cent of the material that could be compiled from similar
>sources.
>
>Eventually, each effigy and its details will have a description with
>appropriate c16th terms and an explanation of how they were worn.
>
>The database has been compiled by Dr Jane Malcolm-Davies at Winchester
>School of Art. Feedback on the usefulness of the images and suggestions for
>improvement will help with an application for continued funding for the
>project.
>
>Penny E. Ladnier
>Owner,
>The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
>Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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Somehow, I don't think that a linen veil would be so heavy as to weight ten pounds on her head.  Could she have had on some kind of really elaborate hat or headgear? 

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender 

On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 16:34:19 -0600 Melanie Schuessler
<melanie@faucet.net> writes:
> I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's got on her head 
> in 
> the Canterbury Tales:
> 
> "Hir coverchiefs ful fyne weren of ground,
> I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound
> That on a Sonday weren upon hir heed."
> 
> Mainly I'm wondering about the use of the word "ground" in the first 
> 
> line. I've seen a suggestion that this could translate to mean 
> "texture", as in "her coverchiefs were of a very fine texture".
> 
> The OED doesn't seem to offer any goodies, but perhaps I missed 
> something--the entries for "ground" are quite long! Does anyone 
> have 
> other information about this?
> 
> Thanks,
> Melanie Schuessler
> 
> 

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Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 12:41:20 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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It sounds to me like a sartirical comment that her headdress was 
really overdone.  I think his reference to "ten pound" is hyperbole, 
as when we may say that something "weighs a ton" when all we mean is 
that it is "very heavy".

Joan

At 12:11 PM 2/10/2006, you wrote:
>Somehow, I don't think that a linen veil would be so heavy as to 
>weight ten pounds on her head.  Could she have had on some kind of 
>really elaborate hat or headgear?
>
>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 16:34:19 -0600 Melanie Schuessler
><melanie@faucet.net> writes:
> > I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's got on her head
> > in
> > the Canterbury Tales:
> >
> > "Hir coverchiefs ful fyne weren of ground,
> > I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound
> > That on a Sonday weren upon hir heed."
> >
> > Mainly I'm wondering about the use of the word "ground" in the first
> >
> > line. I've seen a suggestion that this could translate to mean
> > "texture", as in "her coverchiefs were of a very fine texture".
> >
> > The OED doesn't seem to offer any goodies, but perhaps I missed
> > something--the entries for "ground" are quite long! Does anyone
> > have
> > other information about this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Melanie Schuessler
> >
> >
>
>_____________________________________________________________
>Netscape. just the net you need
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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The kind and helpful ladies at Piecework have given me the following 
address where people in the U.K. can order a subscription or back 
copies of "Piecework", and other American sewing related magazines.

http://www.hangingbyathread.co.uk/

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 16:29:54 -0500
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Based on about 6/8 items in my antique inventory that this garment is trying
to emulate, bodices in this decade of the new pattern are always boned...in
addition to having the corset boned. The relaxed look would only be seen in
the reformed dress (sans corset) and probably never in such a formal
garment.
The poufffs at the hip seem very contrived; and the shoe topper skirt is
showing too much shoe (and horrors! an ankle)  it is true that skirts were
somewhat shorter in this time period, but I think not for formal attire.

My two cents worth, based on real garments that I have seen and inspected...

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:26 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?


> I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for
> submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that they
have
> a new historic costume pattern,
> http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a bustle or
> natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom of
> the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite a
bit
> like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although they
do
> already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo on
> stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early 1880s
> outfits.
> Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic this
is
> and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't
look
> too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, it
> reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need fitting
> to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to pinpoint a flaw (I
> admit I don't like the look of the back of the skirt but I don't know if
> that's because it's inauthentic or I just dislike the style). Then again
> I've only done a little research into this era, so for those who have more
> expertise in natural form era outfits what is your opinion?
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
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Exactly!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?


> The actual picture looks as if the side poof is pulled to the front
opening
> but the drawing view does not. I don't know if that is the problem you
seek,
> but that is one difference I see. The ones I've seen like this are pulled
> more towards the back, not to the front. They form the bustle and "butt
> enhancement" with all the poofyness.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
> To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:26 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
>
>
> >I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for
> > submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that they
> > have
> > a new historic costume pattern,
> > http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a bustle
or
> > natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom
of
> > the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite a
> > bit
> > like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although
they
> > do
> > already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo
on
> > stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early
1880s
> > outfits.
> > Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic this
> > is
> > and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't
> > look
> > too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, it
> > reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need
fitting
> > to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to pinpoint a flaw
(I
> > admit I don't like the look of the back of the skirt but I don't know if
> > that's because it's inauthentic or I just dislike the style). Then again
> > I've only done a little research into this era, so for those who have
more
> > expertise in natural form era outfits what is your opinion?
> > Elizabeth
> > --------------------------------------------
> > Elizabeth Walpole
> > Canberra Australia
> > ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> > http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 13:33:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Carletta da Nicolosi <carletta_nicolosi@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you Keri-Anne for this link.  It was VERY informative.  I have a Roman period Event coming up and this should really help.
   
  ~Carletta

Keri-Anne Lawton <kalawton@codexpublishing.ca> wrote:
  I don't know how extensive this article is but I just found it last
night looking for something else. 

http://www.housebarra.com/EP/ep04/08romanhair.html

Hope it's at least a starting point. 

Keri-Anne

		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 16:46:14 -0500
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Were these Fiscars or look-alikes?

One of the advantages of the Fiscar Soft Touch is that there is no finger
pinching.  I don't remember if they use this design with the scrapbook line.

One interesting note re Fiscar service on the ST products, at least, is that
you can get replacement springs when they give out (from overwork?).The last
time I requested replacements, they sent me a small handful!  Would that
they would would put a quality spring in to begin with.
Any way, the ST line has saved my fingers from calluses.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert


> ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
>
> > Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of pinking/dagging scissors--a
variety of designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them advertised only in
art-supply catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to paper. I'm
always tempted to try a pair, but I can't decide among  wavy-cut, deep pink,
deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated dags...and can't afford to
buy them all!
> > Again: maybe no good for fabric....Has anybody tried them?
> > --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>
> I have a pair I bought when I made my wedding invitations, and I didn't
> think they were all that good on paper. The handles were small and hurt
> my hands -- though they cut ok -- I found them unpleasant to use. They
> probably would have worked on fabric when new, but they won't now. And
> how would you sharpen something like that anyway?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
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Status: RO

Thanks for the links, guys! These will help.
 
So, are these hairnets made from sprang? 
 
http://www.vroma.org/images/mcmanus_images/hairnet2.jpg
 
http://www.vroma.org/images/mcmanus_images/hairnet1.jpg
 
And I know that they did use hairpieces and wigs, but I still would like to see them so I can figure out how it's done.
 
The fun thing about making art dolls is that I get to make it all: costumes, shoes, hats and hairstyles! Of course, sometimes that's the hard part, too... :)
 
Tea Rose
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Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 22:53:39 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert/Fiskars scissors
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At 21:46 10/02/2006, you wrote:
>Were these Fiscars or look-alikes?
>
>One of the advantages of the Fiscar Soft Touch is that there is no finger
>pinching.  I don't remember if they use this design with the scrapbook line.
>
>One interesting note re Fiscar service on the ST products, at least, is that
>you can get replacement springs when they give out (from overwork?).The last
>time I requested replacements, they sent me a small handful!  Would that
>they would would put a quality spring in to begin with.
>Any way, the ST line has saved my fingers from calluses.
>
>Kathleen


Thanks for the suggestion Kathleen. I inherited my Fiskars Soft Touch 
third hand and recently broke the spring. Someone is bringing me a 
new pair from the U.S. as they are so much cheaper. I am too cheap to 
buy another pair, and I am having to use a pair of Fiskars shears 
instead - not nearly so easy. So I just wrote to Fiskars UK for a new 
spring, or somewhere I can get them fixed. Great tip - thanks again.

Suzi


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I saw a shortened version of the commercial tonight.  Not as cute as the 
long version.  The costumes look a lot better on TV than on Google.  I don't 
know why Google's video player is so bad.

I agree, the king costume on the old commercials was really scary.  Wonder 
who thought that one up.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Washington DC
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 11:57:17 -0600
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I have stayed at the Harrington, also. My only recommendation is, stay on a lower floor. They have the world's SLOWEST elevator.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Formo, Nathan
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 10:36 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Washington DC


My family relies on Hotel Harrington.  It's basically 2 blocks from everything.  
1 blocks to the Old Post office for good cheap food. 
2 blocks from Fords Theater and Hard Rock CafÃ©
1.5 blocks to the nearest metro station
2 blocks from Museum of Natural History and the rest of the Smithsonian. http://www.hotel-harrington.com/mapdrivingdirections.htm

The rates are of course a little more expensive then a Motel 6 in the middle of nowhere but we haven't yet found anything cheaper and more conveniently located.  If you've got a group going you can't beat some of their larger room prices.  I always recommend this to friends and family.  We've never had any problems walking around at night and since it's so close to everything we save quite a bit on transportation.

Small note.  The parking garage is a few blocks away.  We unload at the hotel and then send someone to go park the car while the others check in.  Once you park just leave the car until your stay is over.  There's no reason to try driving around DC if you don't have to.

BjÇ«rn Arnaldsson 
 
Lord Bjorn Arnaldsson
Barony of Black Diamond 
 



>Message: 5
>Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 13:09:41 +0000
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Subject: [h-cost] O.T.
>To: h-costume@indra.com
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>
>
>I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone
>knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the 
>Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator 
>friend, and see what I can see.
>
>Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course
>find out what I'll be allowed to see!!
>
>A very excited Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:fringed fleece boas  h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 127
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A local church may have a program for giving out warm clothes to the  
homeless. I volunteered on the "food van" run by the Adventist Church that went  to 
downtown Baltimore giving out hot soup sandwiches as well as coats, scarves,  
gloves, shoes, etc to the area homeless. 
 
Ola
 
In a message dated 2/10/2006 11:18:36 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

On Feb  10, 2006, at 11:04 AM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I made a whole slew  of those fringed fleece boas that were popular a 
> couple years ago,  with the intention of selling them all.  I did sell 
> a few on  ebay but am stuck now with about 25-30 of them and no one 
> wants them  anymore.  Does anyone have any ideas about an organization 
> I  might donate them to?  They're really warm but unfortunately, went  
> out of style really fast.
>
>  Sylrog




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In a message dated 2/10/2006 2:37:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

As I  live in London, and manage to get to Europe a lot (the Louvre, 
the Prado  etc) I don't really need to see European stuff. (Or 
Tudor/Shakespeare for  that matter - born and bred in Warwickshire!). 
I suppose I mostly make  Georgian costume, in all its years, including 
Regency of  course.



All the more reason to hit the Museum of the American Indian. When are you  
ever gonna see this kind of stuff again? ;-)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
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tearoses@aol.com wrote:

> Hi, 
> Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair? I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they wore really tall, complicated hairstyles? 
>  


Wasn't a lot of that done with wigs? I seem to recall references to wigs 
from my Roman lit courses.



Dawn


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From: Anne <adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help Identify 19th Century Painting
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Dawn,
    I don't know the identity of the artist, but I don't think he is a
pre-Raphaelite, unless he is an older member of that movement. According 
to Victorianweb.org, the Pre-Raphaelite brotherhood was founded in 1848 
and the earliest listed  member was born in 1827, about 10 years older 
than this artist if he was in his 20s in 1839. However, I agree that the 
portrait is reminiscent of the Pre-Raphaelite movement and is Romanitic 
in style. If you find out who it is, please post to the list.
Anne
-- 
Anne Dealy
adelaideatgenevahistoricalsociety.com
(be sure to change "at" to "@")

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From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: pinking shears
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We just had a discussion about this on r.c.t.sewing
It seems that there are shears that cannot be sharpened, shears that 
have been so abused (dropped, sharpened by idiots, etc.) that they can 
no longer be sharpened, but that reasonably well cared for, reasonable 
quality shears can be sharpened.

This fellow, who sharpens knives and scissors professionally, was quite 
helpful in the discussion. Of course, he does sell sharpening services. 
http://www.villagesharpener.com/
Have not gotten around to sending my shears there yet.

I don't know about sharpening other sorts of pinked cutters.

liz young

Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/9/06 7:04:48 PM GMT Standard Time, 
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
> 
> 
>>And 
>>how would you sharpen something like that anyway?
> 
> 
> When I got my first pair of pinking shears (just normal zig-zaggy ones) I was 
> told they can be professionally sharpened once, and that's it - any more and 
> they can't guaratee that the teeth will still meet
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 16:50:07 -0500
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Richard Coursons's Hair book is the best reference I know of.  Since you
spend time researching examples of Fine Art that you probably can identify
his sources as you see them reduces to blackline drawings.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 4:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles


> Hi,
> Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair?
I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they wore
really tall, complicated hairstyles?
>
> Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by
Trasko? Is it any good?
>
> Thanks!
> Tea Rose
>
>
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From: Hope Greenberg <Hope.Greenberg@uvm.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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Here's the appropriate bits from Hodges, Laura F. "Chaucer and Costume: 
The Secular Pilgrims in the General Prologue." (Cambridge: D.S. Brewer, 
2000) pp. 163 - 172.

Echoes what has already been said here, but I thought it was 
interesting nonetheless! BTW, here's the usual picture:
http://www.unc.edu/depts/chaucer/zatta/wife.jpg

Excerpts, without footnotes:

"Alisoun's Sunday garb includes three items of expensive dress 
commonplace in estates satires: a headdress notable enough to swear by, 
fine red hosiery, and new shoes. Those members of parliament who 
wished, through sumptuary laws, to regulate dress according to income 
and birth would probably agree that the Wife's cumulative inheritances 
and her cloth-making success entitled her to dress in this 
manner...However, the satirists and moralists would not have been so 
generous...
"The moralists were most concerned with what they deemed excess in 
dress as it demonstrated the sin of pride..."

Hodges then goes on to give examples of how Chaucer and others often 
used an ornate headdress to signify pride, vanity, temptation/unchaste 
behavior, and/or an attempt to challenge their husbands as heads of 
households, but continues...

"However, the study of the history of costume and textiles throws 
additional light on the coverchiefs suggested in Chaucer's description. 
In the past, critics have debated the nature of these coverchiefs and 
the issue of how fashionable they may have been. To clarify these 
separate issues, several things must be considered. 'Hir coverchiefs 
ful fyne weren of ground' (I, line 453) which Riverside glosses 'fine 
in texture', indicates quality. However, the first MED definition for 
ground in this context is 'the background for ornamentation of fabric', 
and both the MED and OED cite Chaucer's usage in this line as the first 
literary example. Further, this definition facilitates a better 
understanding of Chaucer's attribution of heavy weight to this 
headdress. Granted that a fine fabric was used, what kind of decorated 
coverchiefs might make a weight of ten pounds? Stella Mary Newton and 
Mary M. Giza provide an answer to this question. They describe a veil 
headdress that began to appear in illuminations and sculpture by the 
1360s, one which they characterize as 'veils edged with a forest of 
frills in airy layers almost impossible to count' and very difficult 
for sculptors to portray except in a stylized manner... [list some 
examples and provides drawing of the headdress that should be familiar 
to most h-costumers!]...The multiple frills at the veil's edge are 
achieved through a weaving process, by adding considerably to the 
threads at the selvedge edge, thus producing the fluted or goffered 
appearance, and additional weight."

"The air flow from the forward movement of dame Alisoun, striding 
toward the alter rail, would have lifted and fluffed the frills of such 
coverchiefs and added to the appearance of fullness and 
weight...Nevertheless even the most beruffled coverchiefs would be 
unlikely to weight ten ounds...and we should read the narrator's 
oath...as comic hyperbole directed at a fanciful headdress."

"As funeral brasses from the 1360s onward make clear, elegant 
coverchiefs so beruffled that they give the impression of heacy weight 
were in style in the late 1380s. They were neither a new style nor a 
fading style at that time, and Chaucer's description suggests that the 
Wife wears such a headdress, one that demonstrates her knowledge of 
fine quality in fabric and familiarity with special weaving techniques. 
In her portrait her coverchiefs serve as her hallmark; they adorn at 
the same time that they advertise, both for business and pleasure, 
especially so since, for dame Alisoun, the two are so frequently 
indistinguishable."

Hodges goes on to suggest that an additional association between 
coverchief and the word coverture. "Legally, coverture is 'the 
condition or position of a woman during her married life, when she is 
by law under the authority and protection of her husbane' (OED), a 
definition that the Wife's description of her five marriages makes 
highly ironic and that invests any coverchiefs, symbol of marital 
subjection, with the same irony."

"The Wife's coverchiefs, then, are a highly charged costume sign: they 
are literally a gesture of submission to her married and legal status, 
as depited in Chaucer's designation 'good WF' (line 445) and to St. 
Paul's dictum that womne's heads should be covered in church; 
economically the proclamation of a cloth-maker's community status and 
wealth; aesthetically the beautiful veiling of an attractive, seductive 
woman, and morally the announcement of a woman's pride, materialism, 
and by extension her unchastity, her sexual manipulation confessed so 
blatently in her Prologue."


- Hope

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Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing samples
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I don't know if this helps with the definition you're looking for or not, but here are two samples of "fine drawing" from Woolman's "Sewing Course," c1900, where it's used to patch damask. It was also used on heavy cloth as the stitches could be hidden in the material. It's different from seaming, but it does join two pieces butted together without overlap the way seaming does.
   
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing01.jpg
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing03.jpg
   
  The dotted piece is about 2.5 cm and the fringed one just over 3 cm.
   
  I have a brief description and illustration of it in my book, "Plain Needlework - A Guide to Nineteenth Century Hand Sewing."  http://hollisandbell.com/
   
  Melissa Roberts

			
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Feb 10 20:34:43 2006
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Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 19:59:31 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help Identify 19th Century Painting
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Definitely not pre-Raphaelite, on stylistic grounds alone. The
pre-Raphaelites did not do formal portraits of men in suits in front of
drapery, and did not use these highly refined techniques of light and
shadow, which for them were a mark of the traditional style they were
rebelling against.

Pre-Raphaelite pictures, even when set in contemporary times, tend to tell
stories, are set in natural surroundings or detailed interiors, and use a
great deal of color and a "flat" technique in which all parts of the
picture are illuminated and recorded.

No luck for me either on identifying it, though.

--Robin

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Feb 10 21:19:28 2006
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert/Fiskars scissors
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 21:20:02 -0500
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You are welcome!  The first time the problem happened, I sent the shears in
for service.  The last time, it was the 'clippers'.  They not only replaced
the spring in the ailing pair but sent along a new pair!  (Funny, the
clippers  never go on sale).  Also, the size of the clipper spring is about
one turn less than the Shears, so it makes a small difference when you are
trying to keep them in service.

kathleen



.----- Original Message ----- From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert/Fiskars scissors


> At 21:46 10/02/2006, you wrote:
> >Were these Fiscars or look-alikes?
> >
> >One of the advantages of the Fiscar Soft Touch is that there is no finger
> >pinching.  I don't remember if they use this design with the scrapbook
line.
> >
> >One interesting note re Fiscar service on the ST products, at least, is
that
> >you can get replacement springs when they give out (from overwork?).The
last
> >time I requested replacements, they sent me a small handful!  Would that
> >they would would put a quality spring in to begin with.
> >Any way, the ST line has saved my fingers from calluses.
> >
> >Kathleen
>
>
> Thanks for the suggestion Kathleen. I inherited my Fiskars Soft Touch
> third hand and recently broke the spring. Someone is bringing me a
> new pair from the U.S. as they are so much cheaper. I am too cheap to
> buy another pair, and I am having to use a pair of Fiskars shears
> instead - not nearly so easy. So I just wrote to Fiskars UK for a new
> spring, or somewhere I can get them fixed. Great tip - thanks again.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fine drawing samples
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jmhr3@yahoo.com wrote:

> I don't know if this helps with the definition you're looking for or not, but here are two samples of "fine drawing" from Woolman's "Sewing Course," c1900, where it's used to patch damask. It was also used on heavy cloth as the stitches could be hidden in the material. It's different from seaming, but it does join two pieces butted together without overlap the way seaming does.
>    
>   http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing01.jpg
>   http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing03.jpg
>    

Thanks, but in the quote I was looking at, the seam has already been 
backstitched, so it doesn't make any sense that it would then use a 
technique like that. I think it's more likely to be the ladder-stitch 
that was suggested before, as a method of reinforcement to prevent the 
center seam from having too much stress on it.


Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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Wow--thanks so much for typing all that in!  Very interesting!  That 
adds a lot to what I've seen before.

Thanks ever so,
Melanie Schuessler


Hope Greenberg wrote:
> Here's the appropriate bits from Hodges, Laura F. "Chaucer and Costume: 
> The Secular Pilgrims in the General Prologue." (Cambridge: D.S. Brewer, 
> 2000) pp. 163 - 172.
> 
> Echoes what has already been said here, but I thought it was interesting 
> nonetheless! BTW, here's the usual picture:
> http://www.unc.edu/depts/chaucer/zatta/wife.jpg
> 
> Excerpts, without footnotes:
...

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Subject: [h-cost] Re mending
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Thanks for all the tips and advice. I've made a good start on darning the 
holes. Some of the small darns are practically invisible.
kelly, I could send you a ball of(sob sob) hand spun yarn full of moths to 
put in with your riding habit but I think there may be some laws about 
sending insects abroad! The discovery of the moths in my knitting wools was 
rather upsetting. On the plus side my home now smells lovely as i've made a 
load of pommanders which I hope will keep the moths away.

thanks Joan, I developed type two diabetes and discovered that by 
controlling it with diet I started to loose weight. But I miss chocolate and 
biscuits soooooo much.
regards
Joy

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 22:45:13 -0500
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On Friday 10 February 2006 5:17 pm, tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks for the links, guys! These will help.
>
> So, are these hairnets made from sprang?
>
> http://www.vroma.org/images/mcmanus_images/hairnet2.jpg
>
> http://www.vroma.org/images/mcmanus_images/hairnet1.jpg

I've seen pictures of these before, and they look like they were metal, 
instead of metallic thread.  However, you could make similar ones using 
sprang, and sprang goes back far enough that it was probably known to the 
Romans.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fine drawing samples
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 21:43:42 -0600
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Those remind me greatly of the stitch used in "pattern darning"
Of an Icelandic altar-cloth (charted by Carol... hmm; I'll find it if
anybody really needs to know); which I also saw taught/demonstrated at a
Pennsic class on hand sewing as a technique to repair small rips: up through
the cloth beside the rip, down thru the cut and up again on the other side-
repeat for a bit of a figure 8 pattern. Works really well too!
Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of jmhr3@yahoo.com
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 7:11 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing samples

I don't know if this helps with the definition you're looking for or not,
but here are two samples of "fine drawing" from Woolman's "Sewing Course,"
c1900, where it's used to patch damask. It was also used on heavy cloth as
the stitches could be hidden in the material. It's different from seaming,
but it does join two pieces butted together without overlap the way seaming
does.
   
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing01.jpg
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing03.jpg
   
  The dotted piece is about 2.5 cm and the fringed one just over 3 cm.
   
  I have a brief description and illustration of it in my book, "Plain
Needlework - A Guide to Nineteenth Century Hand Sewing."
http://hollisandbell.com/
   
  Melissa Roberts

			
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 23:51:28 -0500
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On Thursday 09 February 2006 4:16 pm, tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> Hi,
> Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair?
> I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they wore
> really tall, complicated hairstyles?
>
> Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by
> Trasko? Is it any good?

I looked through it in a bookstore once.   Fewer illustrations than I'd like,  
and very un-informative text.  Moreover, I don't think it had any pictures 
whatsoever of Roman period styles.  Don't waste your money.

If you want pictures of Roman ladies' hair styles, there's a nice little 
section in A.T. Croom's "Roman Clothing and Fashion," which is still in print 
and not too expensive (I think it runs about $35 USD).

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Miniatures of Nicholas Hillard and his wife Alice Brandon.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Nicholas_Hilliard_021.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Nicholas_Hilliard_001.jpg
De

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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: fine drawing?
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<--- "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
<
<michaela de bruce
<http://glittersweet.com
<6 days of digests to go through... oh boy;)

I feel for you - I neglected my email for the last 3 days, and am now working my way through 425-odd messages! 8-P

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~






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In a message dated 2/10/2006 11:55:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

Miniatures of Nicholas Hillard and his wife Alice  Brandon.



Those are really neat!  However, may I humbly suggest a little more  info in 
a post like this, to give us a hint of the period.  I suppose that,  if I 
don't know who Nicholas Hillard is, I can assume that is not a period of  primary 
interest for me, and it certainly didn't hurt me to look at the pictures  
anyway.  However, how about, in future, saying something like "Miniatures  of  
.... , circa 1577"?
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fine drawing 
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You're right. Fine drawing is described in the
instructions as "like lacing" so it sounds like it
could be used to reinforce a seam. It just wouldn't
look anything like the pictures I posted when used
that way. :-)

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Agreed. Costumes great. Movies bite. Books rock.

Bice


On 2/9/06, Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
>
> At 02:40 PM 2/8/2006, you wrote:
> >I got the newly issued DVD of "Dune"....another film much hated but I
> love
> >because I don't find it confusing [and I've never read the books]
>
>
> While I really enjoyed both sets of movies (SciFi version, and the
> original
> movie with extended info), the books are so much better imho. If you
> haven't read them, do, at least the first three books. I've read most of
> that series, and the first three are much better, with the story going
> whacky imho after that.
>
> But I will also admit to enjoying the SciFi movie costumes very much, even
> if the storylines are a bit changed. It's been a long while since I saw
> the
> original movie (when it came out in the theatre, and again when the
> extended aired on tv although I vaguely watched it because I was working),
> so I won't comment there.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <8C7FBD533E271E5-788-158EF@MBLK-M22.sysops.aol.com>
	<200602102351.28977.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2006 08:56:49 -0500
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I have it on the shelf, but it is in the file to discard.
  Does anyone not know  about the R.Courson book I mentioned earlier.  He
covers hair styles from almost pre-history through most of the twentieth
Century.  This volume is about 3" thick; the drawings are based on statuary
of the ancients through gleanings from pictorial evidences of art and
photography.  All of the pic's are black and white line renderings of hair
style from any of the periods.  And it carries a fairly comprehensive
bibliography as well as interpretive  descriptions .

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles


> On Thursday 09 February 2006 4:16 pm, tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> > Hi,
> > Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair?
> > I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they
wore
> > really tall, complicated hairstyles?
> >
> > Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by
> > Trasko? Is it any good?
>
> I looked through it in a bookstore once.   Fewer illustrations than I'd
like,
> and very un-informative text.  Moreover, I don't think it had any pictures
> whatsoever of Roman period styles.  Don't waste your money.
>
> If you want pictures of Roman ladies' hair styles, there's a nice little
> section in A.T. Croom's "Roman Clothing and Fashion," which is still in
print
> and not too expensive (I think it runs about $35 USD).
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical
> results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new to me
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Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 11:49 PM
Subject: [h-cost] new to me


> Miniatures of Nicholas Hillard and his wife Alice Brandon.
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Nicholas_Hilliard_021.jpg
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Nicholas_Hilliard_001.jpg
> De


Wow--what a beautiful couple they made! He was a handsome devil, wasn't he?

Fiant simii!

Dianne
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new to me
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Does her lace ruff stop at the shoulder?  It almost looks like it attaches to her black veil.  Is that usual?  Can't remember seeing anything like that before, but Elizabethan isn't my primary period (yet).  Thanks
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 22:49:13 -0600
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] new to me

Miniatures of Nicholas Hillard and his wife Alice Brandon.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Nicholas_Hilliard_021.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Nicholas_Hilliard_001.jpg
De

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Subject: [h-cost] Dune costumes
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While I really enjoyed both sets of movies (SciFi version, and the
>  original
> movie with extended info), the books are so much better  imho
 
One should never go to a movie based on a book and expect it to be in any  
way true to the book's story.  Different medium.  Then one is less  often 
disappointed.  I loved the Dune books.  I also loved the David  Lynch "Dune" movie.  
If any of you are fans of particular film directors,  as I am of David Lynch, 
you go to that movie to see what that director has done  with the story, not 
to see a reenactment scene-by-scene of the book.  At  least, that is my 
opinion.  If you're looking for the same story as the  book, you are bound to be 
disappointed most of the time.  Where was Tom  Bombadil, after all, in Lord of 
the Rings?
 
That said, the process of designing costumes for a science fiction film or  
fantasy is that the world you are creating never really existed.  So you  get 
to create the world, along with the rest of the design team. So much  fun!  And 
the choices in "Dune" the movie (the 80's one with Sting) are  very 
interesting.  I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits.   The name for them 
escapes me.  And, of course, the Court.  And the  creepy Baron. (shudder) and how 
all of these choices related to the  characters.
 
Cheryl Odom
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Becky wrote:

> Try watching the latest series on HBO or Cimemax, Called Ceasar. It's great.
> It portrays all the nasty things people think but pretend don't happen in
> society. Just proves that nothing is new, even sexual orientation,
> seduction, powergrabs and political arrangements through sex.

You thought any of that was new? :-)

Gail Finke

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2006 13:02:27 -0500
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On Saturday 11 February 2006 8:56 am, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> I have it on the shelf, but it is in the file to discard.
>   Does anyone not know  about the R.Courson book I mentioned earlier.  

Yes, I am familiar with Corson's book.  However, I believe it's out of print. 
It's certainly hard to find; after prowling the Internet for awhile I managed 
to score a copy for $75 USD.  That's why I didn't recommend it first to the 
lady who started this thread.  

>   He 
> covers hair styles from almost pre-history through most of the twentieth
> Century.  This volume is about 3" thick; the drawings are based on statuary
> of the ancients through gleanings from pictorial evidences of art and
> photography.  All of the pic's are black and white line renderings of hair
> style from any of the periods.  And it carries a fairly comprehensive
> bibliography as well as interpretive  descriptions .

You are quite right, Kathleen.  Corson's book is my basic reference for 
hairstyles though it's not cheap to obtain.  My bet is that it'd be easy 
enough to find via ILL though.  

Corson also did a book on the history of makeup which I will eventually track 
down, time and cost permitting.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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I just saw a fantastic DVD I bought of Offenbach's "La Vie Parisienne." 
This production was put on by the Opera National de Lyon; it has English 
subtitles. The costumes are around 1876, more or less--they're stage 
costumes.

But who cares about the costumes?  The opera is a vivid, simultaneously 
cynical and sentimental evocation of the demi-monde, with very witty 
lyrics and dialog. It gives all the details of things like how a grande 
horizontale juggles her lovers, and how people party at a fashionable 
restaurant (the head waiter instructs new staff on when and when not to 
enter a room in which a couple are dining), how they drink all night, 
the various postures they wake up in, how they order tea and stagger home.

The singing and acting in this production are brilliant, and the music, 
of course, is wonderful.

Fran
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Cheryl wrote:
 I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits.   The name for them 
> escapes me.  

Still-suits.

       -Helen/Aidan
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I've been contacted by a woman who wants a fantasy costume and headpiece 
made for her, for a performance she is doing. She'd like to work with 
someone local to her in Tennessee.

Let me know if you might be interested and I will give her your contact 
info.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] DVDs
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In a message dated 2/11/2006 1:14:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> I just saw a fantastic DVD I bought of Offenbach's "La Vie Parisienne." 
> 

I love Offenbach! "Les Contes d'Hoffmann" is one of my fave operas [Right 
after Monteverdi's "Orfeo" and Mozart's "Le Nozzi"]. Now there's a great costume 
project! I'll have to check it out.
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Do you know a really good DVD of Les Contes d'Hoffmann, musically, and 
in terms of the technical quality of transferring the music, and where 
they didn't go and use modern clothes for costumes or something?

The San Francisco Opera DVD of "Die Fledermaus" is absolutely wonderful BTW.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

> 
> 
> I love Offenbach! "Les Contes d'Hoffmann" is one of my fave operas [Right 
> after Monteverdi's "Orfeo" and Mozart's "Le Nozzi"]. Now there's a great costume 
> project! I'll have to check it out.
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes
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At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote:
>I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits.   The name for them
>escapes me.


Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile.

Kimiko


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<200602111302.27981.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2006 17:26:44 -0500
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Status: RO

I have the makeup book also. The book were given to me by a former
director...sort of in his will.  I will check my shelf for what might be a
digest version that I have acquired. (And thanks for the sp.check..)

Also, I think that Cassine-Scott did a fair job in his Greek and Roman
handbook for the stage.  At least a jumping off point.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles


> On Saturday 11 February 2006 8:56 am, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> > I have it on the shelf, but it is in the file to discard.
> >   Does anyone not know  about the R.Courson book I mentioned earlier.
>
> Yes, I am familiar with Corson's book.  However, I believe it's out of
print.
> It's certainly hard to find; after prowling the Internet for awhile I
managed
> to score a copy for $75 USD.  That's why I didn't recommend it first to
the
> lady who started this thread.
>
> >   He
> > covers hair styles from almost pre-history through most of the twentieth
> > Century.  This volume is about 3" thick; the drawings are based on
statuary
> > of the ancients through gleanings from pictorial evidences of art and
> > photography.  All of the pic's are black and white line renderings of
hair
> > style from any of the periods.  And it carries a fairly comprehensive
> > bibliography as well as interpretive  descriptions .
>
> You are quite right, Kathleen.  Corson's book is my basic reference for
> hairstyles though it's not cheap to obtain.  My bet is that it'd be easy
> enough to find via ILL though.
>
> Corson also did a book on the history of makeup which I will eventually
track
> down, time and cost permitting.  :-)
>
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical
> results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Called stealth suits
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes


> At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote:
>>I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits.   The name for them
>>escapes me.
> 
> 
> Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile.
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT...Les Contes d'Hoffann...was DVDs
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In a message dated 2/11/2006 9:44:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> Do you know a really good DVD of Les Contes d'Hoffmann, musically, and 
> in terms of the technical quality of transferring the music, and where 
> they didn't go and use modern clothes for costumes or something?
> 

********************

I have the DVD with Placido Domingo doing Hoffmann...on the Kultur label. 
It's not bad. But there are several versions. Here's a link to ArkivMusic's page 
of them:

 ArkivMusic | Album List Page

But my fave recording [not DVD...just a CD] is with Francisco Araiza:


 ArkivMusic | Offenbach: Tales Of Hoffmann / Tate, Norman, Araiza, Et Al 

This is not your usual version you hear in the opera house. They have 
restored the complete introduction with the scene with the Muse....who disguises 
herself as Nicklausse to keep Hoffmann true to his art. [suddenly a lot of things 
make more sense, don't they?] And the speaking scenes are restored...but you 
lose Copelias' aria about "eyes". [Offenbach died while they were preparing the 
1st production. Afterwhich...the producers did what they wanted, composing it 
thru and eliminating a lot of stuff.] The Antonia act is second instead of 
last, The Giuietta act is last with a very different ending. Instead of her just 
leaving Hoffmann, Dapertutto plots his death by poisoning a glass of wine. 
But Giulietta drinks it by mistake and drops dead as Dapertutto laughs.

Doncha love opera??? Like Anna Russell says: "You can do anything, as long as 
you sing it."


Any of you who are not familiar with this opera, I highly recommend it. It 
one of the greats...in either version.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT...Les Contes d'Hoffann...was DVDs
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I'm sorry....I forgot the links won't post if I just drag them in the e-mail.


here they are:

DVDs

http://www.arkivmusic.com/classical/Drilldown?album_group=2&comp_id=2182&
name_role1=1&name_id1=8878

The CD

http://www.arkivmusic.com/classical/Drilldown?name_id1=8878&name_role1=1&
comp_id=2182&genre=180&bcorder=195&name_id=14658&name_role=2  


I hope this works....
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Thanks for the tips! I'll look around for the Courson book; I have a  feeling 
that, as a dollmaker, I'll find a reference like that highly useful.  I'll 
check out the Croom book, too. 
 
I just found this website and thought I'd pass it on to the group;  it offers 
an extensive section on unusual historical costume books:
 
_http://www.needleworkbooks.com/_ (http://www.needleworkbooks.com/) 
 
Tea Rose
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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> 
> I have the DVD with Placido Domingo doing Hoffmann...on the Kultur label. 
> It's not bad. But there are several versions. Here's a link to ArkivMusic's page 
> of them:

OK, I just bought that one.

>
> Doncha love opera??? Like Anna Russell says: "You can do anything, as long as 
> you sing it."

My father was an opera fan for many years, though  I think he's mostly 
lost interest. He used to take me to the opera sometimes when I was a 
kid, but he also used to play the NY Metropolitan Opera Saturday 
afternoon live broadcasts at top volume, all the way through, so he 
could hear them anywhere in the house.  As did everyone else in the family.

I just rediscovered opera recently. Aside from Verdi, who I liked a lot 
as a kid, and "Carmen," which I liked most of all, I'm investigating 
light opera/operetta--things like the "Merry Widow" (that BTW is what I 
meant when I recommended the San Francisco Opera DVD; I have a great DVD 
of "Die Fledermaus," but it's another opera company).  I got all 
Donizetti's light operas, and now I'm working through Offenbach.  My 
father recommended "Die Meistersinger" but I didn't care for it. Richard 
Strauss I find annoying as a composer.  I have a great DVD of 
"Patience," but the BBC Gilbert & Sullivan DVDs have lackluster reviews.

Any recommendations for light opera DVDs?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Roman women's hairstyles, rare book site
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 00:33:31 -0500
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On Saturday 11 February 2006 11:41 pm, TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks for the tips! I'll look around for the Courson book; I have a 
> feeling that, as a dollmaker, I'll find a reference like that highly
> useful.  I'll check out the Croom book, too.

You're welcome.  Good luck!
>
> I just found this website and thought I'd pass it on to the group;  it
> offers an extensive section on unusual historical costume books:
>
> _http://www.needleworkbooks.com/_ (http://www.needleworkbooks.com/)

Thanks for the pointer!  There's some interesting stuff here, including some 
stuff I've been toying with buying for a while.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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I think costumers (and medieval re-enactors) will read this one in a
rather different way from the rest of the world:

http://www.chron.com/apps/comics/buildcp.mpl?c=152&date=2006/2/12&v=3.0

--Robin


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<--- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
<snip
<It gives all the details of things like how a grande 
<horizontale juggles her lovers, 
<
<Fran

What a *fantastic* description - 'grande horizontale'! 

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~




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Hi!
   
  After 13 years my lightbulb has finally gone in my sewing machine ( a Toyota that is so old that it has no name or model number!), and I wondered if anyone has had a lightbulb in their sewing machine that has lasted longer?  
   
  Best Wishes
  Jayne

		
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>--- Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:
>
>Becky wrote:
>
>> Try watching the latest series on HBO or Cimemax, Called Ceasar. It's great.
>> It portrays all the nasty things people think but pretend don't happen in
>> society. Just proves that nothing is new, even sexual orientation,
>> seduction, powergrabs and political arrangements through sex.
>
>You thought any of that was new? :-)
>
>Gail Finke

I had the thought, when the whole Charles/Diana scandal things were happening, that the monarchy was just reverting to how it used to be. 

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~



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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes
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No, sorry, it's definitely 'stillsuit' - I just checked in 'Children of Dune', that being the book that was closest to hand.

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~

--- "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:

Called stealth suits

----- Original Message -----
 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>

> At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote:
>>I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits.   The name for them
>>escapes me.
> 
> 
> Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile.
> 
> Kimiko
> 


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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes
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Becky <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote: 
  Called stealth suits
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes


> At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote:
>>I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits. The name for them
>>escapes me.
> 
> 
> Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile.
   
  COMMENT
  Well, I have the original issues of "Analog", [the large-format Sci-Fi Mag which had been the A-5-sized "Astounding"]  - in which the very first stories of Dune were published, AFAIK, - and the moisture trapping suits are surely called "still suits" in Herbert's text as published therein.
   
  Just my two drachm's-worth by water-counters.
   
  Julian, 
  still on the side of House  Atreides, but running a little low on melange.

		
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Jayne~
 
I have an Elna that I purchased two weeks before my daughter was born, and  
have used through countless heirloom outfits for my children and the many  
commissions I have lost count of, as well as more costumes, prom gowns and  period 
clothing than I can even begin to add up.
 
The daughter turns 22 on April 22, so the machine has been plugging away  for 
almost 22 years with the same light.  The only part I have had to  replace 
was the little airmatic foot because the rubber had started to lose air  and it 
would cause the machine to slow down when I was whizzing along.
 
I still have the spare bulb that I purchased for that 'just in case'  
emergency, because of course I expected my original bulb to die in the  middle of the 
night when I had to have something finished the next day.
 
:)
~Kimberley
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune


>
> While I really enjoyed both sets of movies (SciFi version, and the 
> original movie with extended info), the books are so much better imho. If 
> you haven't read them, do, at least the first three books. I've read most 
> of that series, and the first three are much better, with the story going 
> whacky imho after that.

I have tried and tried to read the Dune books. But I just can't get into 
them, for some reason! I've never gotten even to halfway in the first book.

Dianne

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Kimberley,

What kind of sewing machine do you have?

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 05:28:29 -0800 (PST)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My (Record Breaking?!) Sewing Machine Lightbulb
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I just lost the bulb in my 1983 Bernina.  It has
served me well until this past weekend when I took it
to a friend's house (2 hour drive) to help her ready
her wardrobe for a trip to Haifa.  Of course it would
give out when I'm away from home in a place so small
you have to go 45 minutes to find a convenience store!
 We managed with a desk lamp, but her hubby wasn't
pleased to do his work in the kitchen.

Rebecca

--- Jayne Thomas <glassesgal@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi!
>    
>   After 13 years my lightbulb has finally gone in my
> sewing machine ( a Toyota that is so old that it has
> no name or model number!), and I wondered if anyone
> has had a lightbulb in their sewing machine that has
> lasted longer?  
>    
>   Best Wishes
>   Jayne
> 
> 		
> ---------------------------------
>  Yahoo! Autos. Looking for a sweet ride? Get
> pricing, reviews, & more on new and used cars.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune
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At 12:54 12/02/2006, you wrote:


>----- Original Message ----- From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 3:40 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune
>
>
>>
>>While I really enjoyed both sets of movies (SciFi version, and the 
>>original movie with extended info), the books are so much better 
>>imho. If you haven't read them, do, at least the first three books. 
>>I've read most of that series, and the first three are much better, 
>>with the story going whacky imho after that.
>
>I have tried and tried to read the Dune books. But I just can't get 
>into them, for some reason! I've never gotten even to halfway in the 
>first book.


Me neither, but my husband devours them. The made for TV  series 
(William Hurt) made a lot more sense.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My (Record Breaking?!) Sewing Machine Lightbulb
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 15:41:57 +0100
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I am proud to report that my sewing machine, which was purchased in 1972 by
my husband's grandmother is still running with its original lightbulb. It
had a short phase in November last year when it stopped working. As I didn't
think I would find a replacement I had put a good lamp right next to my
machine. A couple of days later the bulb was burning again and has ever
since.
To be fair, I have no idea on how often the machine was used before I got
it...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jayne Thomas" <glassesgal@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 9:58 AM
Subject: [h-cost] My (Record Breaking?!) Sewing Machine Lightbulb


> Hi!
>
>   After 13 years my lightbulb has finally gone in my sewing machine ( a
Toyota that is so old that it has no name or model number!), and I wondered
if anyone has had a lightbulb in their sewing machine that has lasted
longer?
>
>   Best Wishes
>   Jayne
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>  Yahoo! Autos. Looking for a sweet ride? Get pricing, reviews, & more on
new and used cars.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My (Record Breaking?!) Sewing Machine Lightbulb
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Penny, 
 
It is an Elna Supra Airmatic, or something like that.  It is white  with 
black writing and takes cams, although I have very seldom ever used  them.  
 
What is it with these lightbulbs that they just last forever?  Why  can't 
regular household lightbulbs do the same?
 
~Kimberley
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References: <a3.4cad501.3120aafe@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My (Record Breaking?!) Sewing Machine Lightbulb
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 10:38:19 -0500
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Kimberley,

My son works in lighting.  He says, "The longer a lightbulb is left "on," 
the longer the life it will have.  If you keep turning the switch "on and 
off" the bulbs wear out quicker.  Also when you replace a bulb, the switch 
should be "off."  If the switch is "on" when you replace the bulb, it 
shortened the lifespan a great deal. You might also want to pay attention to 
the wattage of the bulb and the wattage for the socket.  If you put to high 
of a bulb wattage, the bulb will burn out quicker and possibly could cause a 
fire."

We have a light over our kitchen sink that stays on non-stop.  The bulb 
lasts about six years.  We have been in this house for eight years and have 
only changed it once.  The light has been on every day and night for all 
those years.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] My (Record Breaking?!) Sewing Machine Lightbulb
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 09:44:32 -0600
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Perhaps they are built sturdier to withstand all the vibrations during
operation? Or they aren't on for such long periods?
Just my .02 lira, Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Chindora@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 9:15 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My (Record Breaking?!) Sewing Machine Lightbulb

Penny, 
 
It is an Elna Supra Airmatic, or something like that.  It is white  with 
black writing and takes cams, although I have very seldom ever used  them.  
 
What is it with these lightbulbs that they just last forever?  Why  can't 
regular household lightbulbs do the same?
 
~Kimberley
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: dune costumes
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Stillsuits - because they distilled all the bodily fluids into drinkable water. Eecch

Annette M
  Message: 1
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2006 15:28:06 -0500
From: "Helen Pinto" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes

Cheryl wrote:
I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits. The name for them 
> escapes me. 

Still-suits.

-Helen/Aidan


------------------------------


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2006 22:35:20 -0500
From: "Becky" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes

Called stealth suits
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes


> At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote:
>>I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits. The name for them
>>escapes me.
> 
> 
> Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile.
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 01:37:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Joannah Hansen 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <20060212013718.23AEB3DD@dm21.mta.everyone.net>
Content-Type: text/plain

No, sorry, it's definitely 'stillsuit' - I just checked in 'Children of Dune', that being the book that was closest to hand.

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~

--- "Becky" wrote:

Called stealth suits

----- Original Message -----

From: "Kimiko Small" 

> At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote:
>>I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits. The name for them
>>escapes me.
> 
> 
> Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile.
> 
> Kimiko
> 


_____________________________________________________________
Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community!


------------------------------

Message: 17
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 10:20:51 +0000 (GMT)
From: julian wilson 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <20060212102051.98186.qmail@web25903.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Becky wrote: 
Called stealth suits
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes


> At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote:
>>I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits. The name for them
>>escapes me.
> 
> 
> Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile.

COMMENT
Well, I have the original issues of "Analog", [the large-format Sci-Fi Mag which had been the A-5-sized "Astounding"] - in which the very first stories of Dune were published, AFAIK, - and the moisture trapping suits are surely called "still suits" in Herbert's text as published therein.

Just my two drachm's-worth by water-counters.

Julian, 
still on the side of House Atreides, but running a little low on melange.


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I do. For Christmas in 1974 my mother bought me a basic Singer (straight stitch with reverse) and I have never changed the bulb. However, I don't think it is fair to actually count it. After she died I rarely used it so it probably hasn't as many hours of use on it as yours.
   
  Annette M

  Message: 14
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 00:58:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Jayne Thomas 
Subject: [h-cost] My (Record Breaking?!) Sewing Machine Lightbulb


Hi!

After 13 years my lightbulb has finally gone in my sewing machine ( a Toyota that is so old that it has no name or model number!), and I wondered if anyone has had a lightbulb in their sewing machine that has lasted longer? 

Best Wishes
Jayne

			
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In a message dated 2/12/2006 12:17:13 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> Any recommendations for light opera DVDs?
> 

*********************************

I'm not your typical opera fan...swooning over that mid to late 19th century 
rep [tho' there are of course truly great works there. Even if you can't sit 
thru Wagner, you know it's amazing stuff]

I like early and 18th century opera best. That of course includes Handel and 
Mozart so it's not all obscure.

It's not really "light" opera in the sense that you mean, but I 
recommend....highly recommend... the DVD of Rameau's "Les Indes Galantes" performed by Les 
Arts Florissant. It's great fun. The music is light, the action whimsical. 
Each act is a completely different story in a different place [the last one takes 
place in America among the Indians.]
 Most 18th century opera is structured as a series of arias separated by 
recitative and Rameau is no exception but the French seem to like to mush it all 
together. There is no flourish before the aria and you are into it before you 
even know it.

This production is beautifully designed and staged. And the singing is 
phenomenal. None of that "stand there and glance at the conductor before you sing" 
you often get, Instead it all flows like it's no problamo for anyone....easy as 
pie! But we know better!

I love this production and recommend it to everyone
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In a message dated 2/12/2006 4:38:53 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
Joannah@sluggy.net writes:

> No, sorry, it's definitely 'stillsuit' 

Yes...Still...as in Distill...
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In a message dated 2/12/2006 9:12:53 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

> The made for TV  series 
> (William Hurt) made a lot more sense.
> 

*********************

Many people say this, but I don't find the Lynch film confusing at all. [I 
didn't even find "Mullholand Drive" confusing.] But it is a complicated 
multilayered story.

The trouble with modern [American mainly] films is everything is wrapped up 
pat at the end. Everything explained to the nth degree. People expect this 
now.... even in their own real lives! I don't mind a little mystery.
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> It's not really "light" opera in the sense that you mean,

Not exactly "light" opera, but I'm not a fan of the kind where everyone 
dies at the end, usually for no good reason.


  but I
> recommend....highly recommend... the DVD of Rameau's "Les Indes Galantes" performed by Les 
> Arts Florissant. It's great fun. The music is light, the action whimsical. 
> Each act is a completely different story in a different place [the last one takes 
> place in America among the Indians.]

OK, I'll buy it!


> 
> This production is beautifully designed and staged. And the singing is 
> phenomenal. None of that "stand there and glance at the conductor before you sing" 
> you often get, Instead it all flows like it's no problamo for anyone....easy as 
> pie! But we know better!
> 
> I love this production and recommend it to everyone
>
Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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> 
> I'm not your typical opera fan...swooning over that mid to late 19th century 
> rep [tho' there are of course truly great works there. Even if you can't sit 
> thru Wagner, you know it's amazing stuff]
> 
> 

BTW, if you do like 19th century, Zefferelli filmed a gorgeous 
production of "La Taviata."

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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In a message dated 2/12/2006 12:37:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> OK, I'll buy it!
> 

Have fun! There's a storm at sea and a volcano erupts in it....not to mention 
the dancing flower pots.
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In a message dated 2/12/2006 12:39:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> BTW, if you do like 19th century, Zefferelli filmed a gorgeous 
> production of "La Taviata."
> 

Yes, a sumptuous version with very beautiful and accurate costumes by Piero 
Tosi.

Zeff also did a good "Otello" where all the men are Renaissance HUNKS!

There is also a very good film of "Carmen" with Placido Domingo.
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> 
> Zeff also did a good "Otello" where all the men are Renaissance HUNKS!

Not well reviewed musically though.

> 
> There is also a very good film of "Carmen" with Placido Domingo.
>
Yes--Carmen can actually _dance_!  I saw "Carmen" on stage in the old 
style when I was a kid. What I mean by the old style was the singers, 
all built like refrigerators, just stand around and sing arias.  Or do 
they still do that in live opera?  Great singing but the erotic aspects 
just weren't there.

Fran
Lavolta Press
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In a message dated 2/12/2006 1:38:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> >Zeff also did a good "Otello" where all the men are Renaissance HUNKS!
> 
> Not well reviewed musically though.
> 

*****************

If I remember correctly, "La Traviata" also raised many complaints.

The music is FINE in "Otello". Iago's soliloquy is riveting!
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> 
> The music is FINE in "Otello". Iago's soliloquy is riveting!

Do you have the DVD though?  People are complaining the transfer speed 
was wrong and all the singing is way too low.

Fran



> _______________________________________________
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Zefferelli also seems to have filmed "I Pagliacci" and "Cavalleria 
Rusticana," which you can get on one DVD.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltaprss.com

> 
>>>Zeff also did a good "Otello" where all the men are Renaissance HUNKS!

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Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 14:53:44 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Funny comic
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Hi Robin--

I am still laughing. I just was gifted with a Baronial coronet by Their
Majesties-East (SCA) and my hisband has made it a point to tease me about
this kind of thing. (He has has his for six months already.)

Monica (Catriona in the SCA)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 2:24 AM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Funny comic



I think costumers (and medieval re-enactors) will read this one in a
rather different way from the rest of the world:

http://www.chron.com/apps/comics/buildcp.mpl?c=152&date=2006/2/12&v=3.0

--Robin


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] silk cord for lacing purses
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Hi,
Does any of you know of good suppliers of thick silk cord i can use for the 
purses i make?
Dont mind if it is white, i could dye it.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Shoemaking articles and handouts
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I was recently reading the medievalshoemaking list and someone posted a 
handout that got me thinking. One of things I've got going on right now is 
that I'm the guild librarian for the HCC (Honorable Cordwainers Company for 
those who didn't know) as well as the Special Collections librarian here at 
the University of Tulsa. It's occurred to me that we're losing a great 
opportunity.

How many of us have written handouts, manuals, and so on that were written 
to be temporary, and once used were lost? I know *I* have. The first version 
of the "Footwear of the Middle Ages" was a handout that soon became a small 
booklet, then became the website, and I no longer have copies of either the 
original handout or the booklet. That may not sound like a great loss to 
you, and certainly I don't lose any sleep over it – it's unfortunate that at 
some point future scholars will have lost that opportunity to see the 
progression of how we have been relearning, teaching, and trying to preserve 
this trade.

So, what I am suggesting is that if any of you have such ephemera (that's 
archival jargon for stuff that wasn't written to last forever), or of 
articles that you have written and would like to be sure that they survive, 
I am setting up a collection of such material for the HCC library. Go ahead 
and contact me by private email and we can talk about it.

Please note that this isn't just for the medieval stuff either.

I will be reposting this elsewhere, and you should feel free to do so if you 
know of anyone who might be interested, but isn't on this list.

Marc


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Shoemaking articles and handouts
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Marc Carlson wrote:

>
> So, what I am suggesting is that if any of you have such ephemera (that's
> archival jargon for stuff that wasn't written to last forever), or of
> articles that you have written and would like to be sure that
> they survive,
> I am setting up a collection of such material for the HCC
> library. Go ahead
> and contact me by private email and we can talk about it.
>
> Please note that this isn't just for the medieval stuff either.

To a certain extent isn't this what Stephan's Florilegium is doing?  Not a
bad idea to have things like this in two places (suspenders and belt).

Regina Romsey
>


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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: opera dvds
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Boy, I would love to see some good Gilbert and Sullivan DVDs. I love the
operettas, but all the recordings are so... blah. Years ago, when the BBC
did them all, my Public Television station broadcast them -- and only "The
Mikado" was worth watching. How anyone can drain the sparkling energy from a
G&S show is beyond me, but they did.

I am going to check out all the recommended DVDs. I love opera, but I have
found that many filmed versions are just as dull as the G&S ones listed
above. And I can't stand listening to recordings of any I haven't seen. (I
can't stand any by Richard Strauss, but that's another story!) To return to
an actual question for the list -- 12 years ago I was lucky enough to get
tickets to an English National Opera production of "The Barber of Seville."
The costumes were amazing (that's when I really "got" how dashing men's
1700s clothes could be) and I discovered the joys of listening to operas in
English. You get the jokes! The sad parts are sad when they're supposed to
be! I could never get VHS tapes of any of the performances because English
VHS doesn't play here in the US. But DVDs do, right? Or are they like VHS
tapes? If they do play here, does anyone have any English National Opera
recommendations?

Gail Finke

PS for Fran: The Stratford Festival in Canada does a Gilbert & Sullivan
every year. Perhaps they have some good recordings.


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Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 15:12:40 -0800
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Subject: [h-cost] Effigy Corset
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Status: RO

To those who have made this corset.  How is it for bending over and/or
twisting?  Can you bend over from the waist or do you do the Stewardess
kneel down, back straight?  How about potty breaks?


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness


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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <HGEEKKPFPKOJBDPGKLOCAENIMFAA.wandap@hevanet.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Effigy Corset
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 19:59:41 -0400
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Status: RO

As with any corset the covers most of the body, it is best to do the 
"stewardess thing' and bend at the knees.
As for potty breaks...my thought is that it is always best to dress from the 
period, from the skin out, meaning no modern panties.  I was hesitant to 
give them up at first, but after spening all day in stays (14+hours) I had 
too. My body won't allow me to go without pottie breaks. If you feel self 
consious, wear the drawers under all you petticoats. You'll get used to the 
free feeling.

My latest effigy corset is pictured on my projects page
http://www.goldenoakinn.com/projects_estela.htm

If you have any questions, I'd be more than willing to help!

Kelly/ Estela
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 7:12 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Effigy Corset


> To those who have made this corset.  How is it for bending over and/or
> twisting?  Can you bend over from the waist or do you do the Stewardess
> kneel down, back straight?  How about potty breaks?
>
>
> Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
> Never attribute to malice what can as easily
> be attributed to simple social ineptness
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Effigy Corset
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 16:45:13 -0800
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Status: RO

I definitely always wear split crotch drawers under my "stuff".  Not period
for everything (we think), but being able to walk around the next day
without chaffing making me walk like an old cow-hand, is worth it.

I had a long talk with a lady who had spent several summer weeks traveling
around Southwest China on the trains.  She had given up on underwear fairly
early in the trip because there was no way to wash it.  As it became grimy,
it became unpleasant in several ways, including digging into her and causing
chaffing and even open sores in VERY tender areas.  She found that it wasn't
all that difficult.  What she did find was that doing without this article
of clothing that she was used to wearing at all times except when bathing
made her feel very "vulnerable".  In her mind she knew it was silly, but
that didn't always help.

I was actually thinking of something else, but split crotch works.

Regina


>
> As with any corset the covers most of the body, it is best to do the
> "stewardess thing' and bend at the knees.
> As for potty breaks...my thought is that it is always best to
> dress from the
> period, from the skin out, meaning no modern panties.  I was hesitant to
> give them up at first, but after spending all day in stays
> (14+hours) I had
> too. My body won't allow me to go without pottie breaks. If you feel self
> consious, wear the drawers under all you petticoats. You'll get
> used to the
> free feeling.
>


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If you want dynamite G&S, check out the productions by the Stratford Festival of Canada.  I haven't seen them all, but the ones I've seen have been fabulous, and their Mikado is particularly fine.  (Oddly, I don't see a link to that one here, but I know it's available, although it may take a little searching.)  They do take liberties, but in my view not offensive ones, and the whimsy is light-hearted and the energy really crackles.  The costuming is a lot of fun, too!
   
  http://www.stratford-festival.on.ca/merchandise/index.cfm?shelf=32
   
  

Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:
  
Boy, I would love to see some good Gilbert and Sullivan DVDs. I love the
operettas, but all the recordings are so... blah. Years ago, when the BBC
did them all, my Public Television station broadcast them -- and only "The
Mikado" was worth watching. How anyone can drain the sparkling energy from a
G&S show is beyond me, but they did.

I am going to check out all the recommended DVDs. I love opera, but I have
found that many filmed versions are just as dull as the G&S ones listed
above. And I can't stand listening to recordings of any I haven't seen. (I
can't stand any by Richard Strauss, but that's another story!) To return to
an actual question for the list -- 12 years ago I was lucky enough to get
tickets to an English National Opera production of "The Barber of Seville."
The costumes were amazing (that's when I really "got" how dashing men's
1700s clothes could be) and I discovered the joys of listening to operas in
English. You get the jokes! The sad parts are sad when they're supposed to
be! I could never get VHS tapes of any of the performances because English
VHS doesn't play here in the US. But DVDs do, right? Or are they like VHS
tapes? If they do play here, does anyone have any English National Opera
recommendations?

Gail Finke

PS for Fran: The Stratford Festival in Canada does a Gilbert & Sullivan
every year. Perhaps they have some good recordings.


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Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> Boy, I would love to see some good Gilbert and Sullivan DVDs. I love the
> operettas, but all the recordings are so... blah.

I can't understand why. I thought G & S was very popular, as 
opera/operetta goes these days. But there is one really outstanding DVD 
of "Patience" by the Australian Opera, 1995.  The costumes, sets, and 
acting are great Aesthetic satires, and the singing is lovely.

I have the 1983 Stratford Festival "Mikado" DVD. It's OK, but not great. 
  The acting is good, but I don't think the singing is top-notch.

Donizetti's comic operas are rather G & S in feel.  There is a 
delightful DVD of "The Daughter of the Regiment" with Beverly Sills, 
sung in English.

(I
> can't stand any by Richard Strauss, but that's another story!) 

I can't stand Richard Strauss, either. It's like he constantly 
interrupts every tune he starts.

Johann Strauss is a different matter. The 1883 Royal Opera Covent Garden 
DVD of "Die Fledermaus," is pretty good, except for sticking some other 
random performers into one act as a sort of variety show.  There are 
other well-reviewed versions.

As I said before, the San Francisco Opera's DVD of "The Merry Widow," is 
excellent, with gorgeous Art Nouveau sets.


To return to
> an actual question for the list -- 12 years ago I was lucky enough to get
> tickets to an English National Opera production of "The Barber of Seville."

There is a nice 1987 Glyndebourne Festival Opera DVD of Rossini's 
"Barber of Seville," and a nice 2001 Opéra National de Lyon DVD of 
Mozart's "Marriage of Figaro."


> The costumes were amazing (that's when I really "got" how dashing men's
> 1700s clothes could be) and I discovered the joys of listening to operas in
> English. You get the jokes! The sad parts are sad when they're supposed to
> be! 

There is a DVD of the 18th century "Beggar's Opera," with superb acting, 
although Roger Daltry (of the Who rock group) doesn't have quite the 
voice for it. It's by the English Baroque Soloists, 1984.  The opera is 
  witty and thoroughly cynical. One neat thing for those familiar with 
the folk tunes Gay used is comparing the traditional lyrics with his 
lyrics for the same tunes--there's some wit built in right there.


I could never get VHS tapes of any of the performances because English
> VHS doesn't play here in the US. But DVDs do, right? Or are they like VHS
> tapes? If they do play here, does anyone have any English National Opera
> recommendations?
> 

There are several DVDs for the English National opera on Amazon, 
including their "Mikado," which is costumed in the 1920s.  I'd rather 
have it set in its own period; but what the heck, I'll give it a try.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Fran wrote:
> Johann Strauss is a different matter. The 1883 Royal Opera Covent Garden 
> DVD of "Die Fledermaus," is pretty good, except for sticking some other 
> random performers into one act as a sort of variety show.  There are other 
> well-reviewed versions.

Totally unrelated guest performers/performances at the party are an old 
Fledermaus tradition.  Sometimes dance performances, too.  The musical 
performaces are kept light, nothing too dramatic, and occasionally there's a 
big surprise when someone steps away from their genre, or even voice type. 
The list usually depends on who's in town.  Sometimes there are even 
non-singing guests of honor at the party.  In a performance at the Kennedy 
Centre a couple of years ago, Supreme Court Justices Ginsburg, Kennedy, and 
Breyer, in their robes, were introduced as "guests supreme" and escorted to 
their places on honor on the big red velvet ottoman downstage.  She was 
carrying this huge black fan.  Placido Domingo and tango dancers performed. 
I saw it last year on "Great Performances" on PBS.  What a hoot.
                           -Helen/Aidan 

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Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 20:49:47 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Effigy Corset
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To those who have made this corset.  How is it for bending over and/or
twisting?  Can you bend over from the waist or do you do the Stewardess
kneel down, back straight?  How about potty breaks?

first, sorry if am being dense (and bear in mind, missed a huge chunk of 
stuff around christmas, so sorry if has been discussed), but which of the effigy 
corsets do you mean?  

I have one of them (the one in arnold's patterns of fashion) which is reeded 
and has an ash busk, and I've never had any problem at all with movement - I 
bend at the hips (better for my back anyway!! 

Never had any problems with the potty thing either (and wear modern pants).

Have never had any problems with any of my other corsets either (ranging from 
17th to edwardian).

But corsetry affects everybody differently.

Debs

PS unless you count getting up when lying down, cos the corset affects how my 
stomach muscles work!!!!
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In a message dated 2/12/2006 7:57:38 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> I can't stand Richard Strauss, either. It's like he constantly 
> interrupts every tune he starts.
> 

***********************

I Like "Der Rosenkavelier" but you have to be prepared for it. Like Wagner. 
That scene where the rose is presented is amazing!

I hate opera English....unless it was originally written in English. I mean, 
half the time you can't understand the English anyway. I don't mind 
supertitles at all. And I love the little back of the seat thingies at the Met.

Some good operas in English:

Dido & Aeneas....Purcell
Semile....Handel
The Rake's Progress....Stravinsky
Billy Budd.....Britten
Rosa......Andreissen
Einstein on the Beach......Glass  Wait....do solfeg syllables count as 
English? I'm kidding. I like "Einstein on the Beach" but like with R Strauss, you 
have to prepare for it....and Glass, of whom I only like a few things.
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In a message dated 2/12/2006 8:26:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
hpinto@mindspring.com writes:

> Totally unrelated guest performers/performances at the party are an old 
> Fledermaus tradition.

************************


Like in "Barber of Seville", there's a tradition of the singer doing Rosina 
singing whatever she wants during the music lesson scene. Of course Rossini 
wrote music for it and that's done a lot more now.
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>From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
>To a certain extent isn't this what Stephan's Florilegium is doing?  Not a
>bad idea to have things like this in two places (suspenders and belt).

Stefan's Florilegium is a compilation of email messages harvested from 
various discussion lists.  I was thinking more of the authors submitting 
their non-electronic ephemera to an archive.

Marc


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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor roses
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Hi all,
   I'd like to embroider some Tudor roses on a shift
and I cannot draw, really cannot draw.  So I would
like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find
black and white line drawings of Tudor roses,
preferably the five petal kind.  Books with this kind
of line drawing would also be great.  Other Tudor
flowers suitable for embroidery would also be of
interest for later but I would like to get started on
the roses soon.
                            Thanks,  Cassandra

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses
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At 14:33 13/02/2006, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>    I'd like to embroider some Tudor roses on a shift
>and I cannot draw, really cannot draw.  So I would
>like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find
>black and white line drawings of Tudor roses,
>preferably the five petal kind.  Books with this kind
>of line drawing would also be great.  Other Tudor
>flowers suitable for embroidery would also be of
>interest for later but I would like to get started on
>the roses soon.


Try this for starters - http://englishhistory.net/tudor/contents.html 
- that is a very nice rose they have on the opening page.

Suzi


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>   So I would
> like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find
> black and white line drawings of Tudor roses,
> preferably the five petal kind.


go to www.google.com click on "images" and enter tudor rose in the search 
window. The first 4 results are 5 petal roses that would be easily traced. 
In the third row is a black and white one.

your results may vary
Denise
Iowa 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor roses
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 08:56:13 -0600
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Yes, google images is your friend

http://www.pkdesigns.com/stitch/tudorose.htm

http://content.answers.com/main/content/wp/en/e/e7/Tudor_rose.gif

etc

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cascio Michael
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 8:34 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Tudor roses

Hi all,
   I'd like to embroider some Tudor roses on a shift
and I cannot draw, really cannot draw.  So I would
like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find
black and white line drawings of Tudor roses,
preferably the five petal kind.  Books with this kind
of line drawing would also be great.  Other Tudor
flowers suitable for embroidery would also be of
interest for later but I would like to get started on
the roses soon.
                            Thanks,  Cassandra

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Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 14:57:09 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses
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At 14:45 13/02/2006, you wrote:
>>   So I would
>>like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find
>>black and white line drawings of Tudor roses,
>>preferably the five petal kind.
>
>
>go to www.google.com click on "images" and enter tudor rose in the 
>search window. The first 4 results are 5 petal roses that would be 
>easily traced. In the third row is a black and white one.
>
>your results may vary
>Denise
>Iowa


Denise

I didn't know you could do that with Google - thank you for opening a 
whole new, time -wasting world for me!!

And the images are great too.

Suzi


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From: traci@crimsonvision.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 15:01:24 +0000
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Here's an image that might be helpful; it has very defined lines:
http://content.answers.com/main/content/wp/en/e/e7/Tudor_rose.gif

Traci

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> 

> At 14:33 13/02/2006, you wrote: 
> >Hi all, 
> > I'd like to embroider some Tudor roses on a shift 
> >and I cannot draw, really cannot draw. So I would 
> >like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find 
> >black and white line drawings of Tudor roses, 
> >preferably the five petal kind. Books with this kind 
> >of line drawing would also be great. Other Tudor 
> >flowers suitable for embroidery would also be of 
> >interest for later but I would like to get started on 
> >the roses soon. 
> 
> 
> Try this for starters - http://englishhistory.net/tudor/contents.html 
> - that is a very nice rose they have on the opening page. 
> 
> Suzi 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
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> I didn't know you could do that with Google - thank you for opening a 
> whole new, time -wasting world for me!!


If you *really* want to waste some time and get your daily dose of immune 
boosting laughter, try google video. You'll need sound and a program that 
will play video files.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8735889757702013026

http://tinyurl.com/7jozy

No costume content to speak of, but everyone can use a good laugh.
Denise
Iowa 

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Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 11:31:39 -0800
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Subject: [h-cost] Silk Cord for Lacing Purses
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Hi Bjarne
I don't know a thing about vendors in Denmark, but I know I went crazy 
trying to find appropriate cord to fingerloop braid when I made a purse. 
Check out your beading stores.  Silk cord is sold to restring necklaces, 
especially pearls.  I was able to buy spools of silk cord in several 
different colors...white being one of them.
Julie in San Diego

----- Original Message ----- 
>
> Hi,
> Does any of you know of good suppliers of thick silk cord i can use for 
> the
> purses i make?
> Dont mind if it is white, i could dye it.
>
> Bjarne


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 20:41:15 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] Kelly/Estellas projekt
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Hi,
I am following your projekt with great expectations:
http://www.goldenoakinn.com/projects_estela.htm
May i ask you one thing. What happens if you take your front busk of the 
corset on top of your wheel farthingale?
I would, if i made a wheel farthingale dress, place the front busk over the 
wheelfarthingale.
But perhaps i have made a mistake, what does others do?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Jeanine E. Swick" <jeanine@woollycat.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] [Fwd: [costumers_notes] How to keep fringe from tangling
 with your thread while sewing it on...]
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This was posted to a belly dance lists I follow.  I'm going to give it a 
try the next time I have to work with fringe.

    Jeanine

-------- Original Message --------

I posted this tip on Tribe.net and thought I'd send it along here too, 
since what little I know about making a costume I owe to Dawn.

When I was sewing fringe on a bra & belt, getting the thread caught in 
the fringe nearly drove me crazy (OK crazier).  Then I came up with 
this solution.  
I took some Glad Press'n Seal Sealable Plastic Wrap.  It's a plastic 
food wrap but it's tacky (sticky).  I cut the wrap a little longer 
than the piece of fringe I was working with and a little wider than 
DOUBLE the length of the fringe itself.  I enclosed the fringe in the 
wrap, just lay the fringe on the wrap and fold the wrap over on itself 
to make a little bag.  Then press gently on the wrap to stick the 
fringe to the wrap.  Now you have your beautiful fringe in a nice 
plastic bag to protect it and it doesn't get caught in the %#$&* 
thread.  You could probably use regular plastic wrap, but the sticky 
stuff is awesome.  Oh, and it doesn't leave a sticky residue on the 
fringe either.  I hope this explanation makes sense.

http://tst.glad.com/pressnseal/about.html













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From: Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor rose again
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Status: RO

Thanks for the links.  I did try google first and got
several that were possible.  I seem to remember in the
dim recesses of my mind that there were several styles
of Tudor rose through the years, some of which had
distinct dots in the middle and some had crowns.  I'm
rather looking for something like the Helena
Snakenborg, I think it is at tudorportraits.com, in
size but not necessarily with the double stemmed
blossoms.  Unfortunately the daughter that draws is
away at college right now.  Thanks again.
                                     Cassandra

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor rose again
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Status: RO

One thing I found out was about the use of the colors of the Tudor rose. I 
remembered learning about THe War of the Roses, one white and one red. I did 
not realize that the TUDOR rose was a combintation of them when the war 
ended. I read about how the background determined if the back was white or 
red. Due to rules in heraldry, the same image could be changed by the 
background used. Interesting point. Never thought about it before today.
Thanks for the education on the history of Tudor Rose.
My daughter has been asked to be Princess Elizabeth at the Ren Faire this 
year. SO I can use the rose on her costume. ANy suggestions of what her gown 
should look like. She loves pink and blue. I have an idea but finding it 
hard to find a pattern her size. She is 7 now.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cascio Michael" <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 3:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Tudor rose again


> Thanks for the links.  I did try google first and got
> several that were possible.  I seem to remember in the
> dim recesses of my mind that there were several styles
> of Tudor rose through the years, some of which had
> distinct dots in the middle and some had crowns.  I'm
> rather looking for something like the Helena
> Snakenborg, I think it is at tudorportraits.com, in
> size but not necessarily with the double stemmed
> blossoms.  Unfortunately the daughter that draws is
> away at college right now.  Thanks again.
>                                     Cassandra
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 20:53:10 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor rose again
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At 20:33 13/02/2006, you wrote:
>One thing I found out was about the use of the colors of the Tudor 
>rose. I remembered learning about THe War of the Roses, one white 
>and one red. I did not realize that the TUDOR rose was a 
>combintation of them when the war ended. I read about how the 
>background determined if the back was white or red. Due to rules in 
>heraldry, the same image could be changed by the background used. 
>Interesting point. Never thought about it before today.
>Thanks for the education on the history of Tudor Rose.
>My daughter has been asked to be Princess Elizabeth at the Ren Faire 
>this year. SO I can use the rose on her costume. ANy suggestions of 
>what her gown should look like. She loves pink and blue. I have an 
>idea but finding it hard to find a pattern her size. She is 7 now.
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Cascio Michael" <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
>To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 3:05 PM
>Subject: [h-cost] Tudor rose again


This site has the most famous portrait of Elizabeth as a princess.

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth_I.htm

Suzi 


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Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 17:10:13 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] [Fwd: [costumers_notes] How to keep fringe from tangling
	with your thread while sewing it on...]
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Status: RO

This is great. I bet it would work with other stuff that keeps looping
around the needle and thread!
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Jeanine E. Swick
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 3:00 PM
To: ICG-D list
Cc: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com; siliconweb@yahoogroups.com; Historic
Costume
Subject: [h-cost] [Fwd: [costumers_notes] How to keep fringe from
tangling with your thread while sewing it on...]


This was posted to a belly dance lists I follow.  I'm going to give it a
try the next time I have to work with fringe.

    Jeanine

-------- Original Message --------

I posted this tip on Tribe.net and thought I'd send it along here too,
since what little I know about making a costume I owe to Dawn.

When I was sewing fringe on a bra & belt, getting the thread caught in
the fringe nearly drove me crazy (OK crazier).  Then I came up with
this solution.
I took some Glad Press'n Seal Sealable Plastic Wrap.  It's a plastic
food wrap but it's tacky (sticky).  I cut the wrap a little longer
than the piece of fringe I was working with and a little wider than
DOUBLE the length of the fringe itself.  I enclosed the fringe in the
wrap, just lay the fringe on the wrap and fold the wrap over on itself
to make a little bag.  Then press gently on the wrap to stick the
fringe to the wrap.  Now you have your beautiful fringe in a nice
plastic bag to protect it and it doesn't get caught in the %#$&*
thread.  You could probably use regular plastic wrap, but the sticky
stuff is awesome.  Oh, and it doesn't leave a sticky residue on the
fringe either.  I hope this explanation makes sense.

http://tst.glad.com/pressnseal/about.html













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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kelly/Estellas projekt
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Status: RO

My Laurel in New York would put her hoop under the front busk too, I don't 
think there is a 'right way'. I have always done it this way, just my thing 
I guess;-) I have found that by putting the hoop under the busk, the hoop 
tilts a bit to the back. Because I have followed the Jean Hunnisett method 
of hoop construction until now, I find the hoop tilts a bit too much for me, 
and have gotten used to wearing my hoop outside the corset...I could be 
totally wrong.
Thanks for the input!

Kelly/estela
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 3:41 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Kelly/Estellas projekt


> Hi,
> I am following your projekt with great expectations:
> http://www.goldenoakinn.com/projects_estela.htm
> May i ask you one thing. What happens if you take your front busk of the 
> corset on top of your wheel farthingale?
> I would, if i made a wheel farthingale dress, place the front busk over 
> the wheelfarthingale.
> But perhaps i have made a mistake, what does others do?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] my first doll 
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Status: RO

Hi,
Couldnt waite for my dolls i ordered will be released, so i baught 1 Emme 
doll at ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Emme-Effervescence-Doll_W0QQitemZ5665834380QQcategoryZ11698QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Why is it i want to make something like "Dangerous Liasions"
:-)

Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 16:24:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my first doll
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Hi,
> Couldnt waite for my dolls i ordered will be released, so i baught 1 Emme
> doll at ebay:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Emme-Effervescence-Doll_W0QQitemZ5665834380QQcategoryZ11698QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Being a plus-sized woman myself, I respect Emme, but gosh those dolls are
expensive!

> Why is it i want to make something like "Dangerous Liasions"

I am sure it will look wonderful....as always ;~>

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor roses
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 18:01:03 -0800
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I don't have a drawing, but I can scan my blackwork one, if you can't find
anything.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cascio Michael
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 6:34 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Tudor roses


Hi all,
   I'd like to embroider some Tudor roses on a shift
and I cannot draw, really cannot draw.  So I would
like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find
black and white line drawings of Tudor roses,
preferably the five petal kind.  Books with this kind
of line drawing would also be great.  Other Tudor
flowers suitable for embroidery would also be of
interest for later but I would like to get started on
the roses soon.
                            Thanks,  Cassandra

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In a message dated 2/13/2006 7:24:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dch@inreach.com writes:

> Why  is it i want to make something like "Dangerous  Liasions"



****************
 
Hmmmmmm...yes...the yellow and black traveling outfit or the red and gold  
"it's beyond my control" gown?
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Status: RO

What kind of embroidery? Blackwork?
If your daughter is trying to be Elizabeth I as a Princess then you are
looking at early Tudor styles for women.
Some children in portraits of the 1500s.
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild1.jpg  1590
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild1.jpg  1575-80
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ArabellaStewart.jpg 1577
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/WilliamBrooke.jpg  1567
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild7.jpg  1545
Florence
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Bia.jpg 1542
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild6.jpg 1541
French/German?
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/TBJacquelineBourgogne.jpg 1530

As for roses, this is a partlet and sleeves not a shift but good for
inspiration
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg

De


-----Original Message-----
Hi all,
   I'd like to embroider some Tudor roses on a shift
and I cannot draw, really cannot draw.  So I would
like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find
black and white line drawings of Tudor roses,
preferably the five petal kind.  Books with this kind
of line drawing would also be great.  Other Tudor
flowers suitable for embroidery would also be of
interest for later but I would like to get started on
the roses soon.
                            Thanks,  Cassandra


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] silk cord
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Hi,
I got a link for a supplier of silk cord!
http://www.ribbonsmyth.com/ribbdyes.htm
In case somebody else are interrested.........

Bjarne 





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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	<00a301c630d4$1d9d35c0$133c0a0a@PURCHASING>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Cord for Lacing Purses
Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 08:11:59 -0500
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Fire Mountain carries a full color range of rat-tail silk cord (and also
mouse-tail). I use these braided or twisted together as well as for
couching.  Dharma carries this also in white and now, black.

kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Julie" <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 2:31 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Silk Cord for Lacing Purses


> Hi Bjarne
> I don't know a thing about vendors in Denmark, but I know I went crazy
> trying to find appropriate cord to fingerloop braid when I made a purse.
> Check out your beading stores.  Silk cord is sold to restring necklaces,
> especially pearls.  I was able to buy spools of silk cord in several
> different colors...white being one of them.
> Julie in San Diego
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >
> > Hi,
> > Does any of you know of good suppliers of thick silk cord i can use for
> > the
> > purses i make?
> > Dont mind if it is white, i could dye it.
> >
> > Bjarne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses
Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 08:51:47 -0500
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Elizabeth likes the Unknown child7 picture. That is the basic design I 
wanted to use. I'll keep that one to use for reference.
Thanks.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 1:31 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor roses


> What kind of embroidery? Blackwork?
> If your daughter is trying to be Elizabeth I as a Princess then you are
> looking at early Tudor styles for women.
> Some children in portraits of the 1500s.
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild1.jpg  1590
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild1.jpg  1575-80
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ArabellaStewart.jpg 1577
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/WilliamBrooke.jpg  1567
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild7.jpg  1545
> Florence
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Bia.jpg 1542
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild6.jpg 1541
> French/German?
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/TBJacquelineBourgogne.jpg 1530
>
> As for roses, this is a partlet and sleeves not a shift but good for
> inspiration
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg
>
> De
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Hi all,
>   I'd like to embroider some Tudor roses on a shift
> and I cannot draw, really cannot draw.  So I would
> like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find
> black and white line drawings of Tudor roses,
> preferably the five petal kind.  Books with this kind
> of line drawing would also be great.  Other Tudor
> flowers suitable for embroidery would also be of
> interest for later but I would like to get started on
> the roses soon.
>                            Thanks,  Cassandra
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses
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Status: RO

In this one: http://www.tudor-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg Are the 
bands on the shoulder and the sleeve attached or is the sleeve one that 
comes off (Attached by ribbons or hooks?) I love those shoulder puffed 
bands. I have the directions on how to make them. I just wanted to know if 
the sleeves detach or not.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 1:31 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor roses


> What kind of embroidery? Blackwork?
> If your daughter is trying to be Elizabeth I as a Princess then you are
> looking at early Tudor styles for women.
> Some children in portraits of the 1500s.
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild1.jpg  1590
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild1.jpg  1575-80
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ArabellaStewart.jpg 1577
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/WilliamBrooke.jpg  1567
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild7.jpg  1545
> Florence
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Bia.jpg 1542
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild6.jpg 1541
> French/German?
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/TBJacquelineBourgogne.jpg 1530
>
> As for roses, this is a partlet and sleeves not a shift but good for
> inspiration
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg
>
> De
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Hi all,
>   I'd like to embroider some Tudor roses on a shift
> and I cannot draw, really cannot draw.  So I would
> like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find
> black and white line drawings of Tudor roses,
> preferably the five petal kind.  Books with this kind
> of line drawing would also be great.  Other Tudor
> flowers suitable for embroidery would also be of
> interest for later but I would like to get started on
> the roses soon.
>                            Thanks,  Cassandra
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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As for roses, this is a partlet and sleeves not a shift but good for
inspiration
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg

De


  Just curious, why do you think this is not an embroidered smock but partlet and sleeves?
   
  alex
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 09:27:04 -0600
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Status: RO

Though I am not 100% sure that it is a partlet and sleeves, it looks as if
she is wearing a chemise under the alleged partlet.
Though once upon a time I would have said "because the sleeves and partlet
look of different materials" but I have noticed a while back that the
sleeves don't match real well either. :P
I have noticed that the majority of costumers that have interpreted this
portrait believe that it is a shirt. For convenience of construction I would
probably make a shirt but I would still think that it is three separate
pieces.
De

-----Original Message-----
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg

De

  Just curious, why do you think this is not an embroidered smock but
partlet and sleeves?

  alex


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor roses
Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 09:46:31 -0600
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In my interpretation of the portrait, I believe that the puffed sections are
attached to the bodice and the rose embroidered sleeves are detachable. But
others have interpreted the what I believe is a partlet and sleeves to be a
shirt.
There is a dress diary online somewhere that recreates the outfit in the
portrait to her own interpretation. If I have time I will see if I can't
locate it again.

De

-----Original Message-----
In this one: http://www.tudor-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg Are the
bands on the shoulder and the sleeve attached or is the sleeve one that
comes off (Attached by ribbons or hooks?) I love those shoulder puffed
bands. I have the directions on how to make them. I just wanted to know if
the sleeves detach or not.


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Subject: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
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Hi all,
  I've always been fascinated by the costumes from "Trois mousquetaires" (1961, two parts, starring G.Barray), I've never seen a historical movie where the people in the costumes would look so good like here. I'm only a bit suspicious that the kind of women's costume was used a bit later than in the 1630s, but I can't tell for sure. Anyway, that's not the point I'm asking about:
  I really wonder how the dresses (here I mean mainly the costumes of the queen and milady) were made - If you look at the bodice, the silhouette is slightly curved, which gives the impression of an underbust corset or something. That wouldn't really go with the period, as I know, there used to be quite straight bodices. This unusual shape makes me a bit confused. And - do you think the bodice could have been a part of a corset (stays...), like the boned bodice in lining? And if not - was it attached to the skirt or not? It shouldn't be, but if there would not be any stiffening in the bodice, how come it always looks so tight and makes no folds? 
  The next thing is the skirt. I really like that shape, the way it widens at the hips. I'd really like to know how the petticoat looked like. Was it a wide rectangle, so wide that folded it took so much space at the hips, or was it curved (smaller at the waist, wider at the bottom)? Maybe the full-hips shape could have been created by a bumroll. If yes, what was the shape? With regular width, like shown here http://www.fashion-era.com/images/AdornCorsetry/bumroll30.jpg, or like Drea Leed's (or Dawn's) pattern http://costume.dm.net/bumroll.html? 
  Please if you have any ideas on that subject, I'd really like to know them:-)
   
  Zuzana K.
   
  P.S.: Here's a photo fro one scene of the film. Unfortunately, it's of a very low quality, but it might help:-)  http://foto.kinox.ru/foto/011415_3.jpg

			
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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In a message dated 2/14/2006 10:17:33 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
garbaholic@sbcglobal.net writes:

Just  curious, why do you think this is not an embroidered smock but partlet 
and  sleeves?



I wondered that too...but you can see a smidgen of a chemise  underneath...at 
the CF opening. Of course that doesn't mean it's not a smock  worn over a 
chemise.
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Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.x=3&submit.y=10&coll_start=81

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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References: <003201c6318e$047c9b70$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress
Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 14:04:19 -0500
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Thanks so much, Bjarne! It's wonderful. Now if it were only in color and on 
view. Oh, well. I guess we can't have everything.

Kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 12:42 PM
Subject: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress


> Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
> http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.x=3&submit.y=10&coll_start=81
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress
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Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>:

> Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
> http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.x=3&submit.y=10&coll_start=81
>

No, I hadn't!  Thanks, Bjarne!  Short-sleeves and embroidery too!  If it
was only in color!  (I know; whine, whine whine!)

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
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In a message dated 2/14/2006 1:50:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
zkraemerova@yahoo.com writes:

I really  wonder how the dresses (here I mean mainly the costumes of the 
queen and  milady) were made - .....[snip]..... It shouldn't be, but if there 
would  not be any stiffening in the bodice, how come it always looks so tight and  
makes no folds? 
 
The bodices seem to be cut in the usual style of the late 1950s, and are  
boned. The curves come from the curved seams in the construction...obviously  
the stomachers are fake and sewn into the bodice with curves seams. They  are 
not cut or constructed according to the 1630s period.
 
They are obviously well made and precisely and impeccably fit. Those  
French....they may not be accurate, but they are beautifully  executed!

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
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Zuzana, I've never come across this film before, but the dress in the photograph looks historically inaccurate to me. Costume designers in the 1960s used to dress the leading ladies according to the modern taste for a "natural" bustline; they thought audiences would find straight-fronted bodices unattractive. I've seen 16th century dresses made in the same way in old films.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
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Hi again,
Forgot to add that the skirt in Evolution is cut in cone shapes, but i did 
not use this. I used full width of the skirt.
Dawns bumroll pattern would be ideal for this.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 6:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"


> Hi all,
>  I've always been fascinated by the costumes from "Trois mousquetaires" 
> (1961, two parts, starring G.Barray), I've never seen a historical movie 
> where the people in the costumes would look so good like here. I'm only a 
> bit suspicious that the kind of women's costume was used a bit later than 
> in the 1630s, but I can't tell for sure. Anyway, that's not the point I'm 
> asking about:
>  I really wonder how the dresses (here I mean mainly the costumes of the 
> queen and milady) were made - If you look at the bodice, the silhouette is 
> slightly curved, which gives the impression of an underbust corset or 
> something. That wouldn't really go with the period, as I know, there used 
> to be quite straight bodices. This unusual shape makes me a bit confused. 
> And - do you think the bodice could have been a part of a corset 
> (stays...), like the boned bodice in lining? And if not - was it attached 
> to the skirt or not? It shouldn't be, but if there would not be any 
> stiffening in the bodice, how come it always looks so tight and makes no 
> folds?
>  The next thing is the skirt. I really like that shape, the way it widens 
> at the hips. I'd really like to know how the petticoat looked like. Was it 
> a wide rectangle, so wide that folded it took so much space at the hips, 
> or was it curved (smaller at the waist, wider at the bottom)? Maybe the 
> full-hips shape could have been created by a bumroll. If yes, what was the 
> shape? With regular width, like shown here 
> http://www.fashion-era.com/images/AdornCorsetry/bumroll30.jpg, or like 
> Drea Leed's (or Dawn's) pattern http://costume.dm.net/bumroll.html?
>  Please if you have any ideas on that subject, I'd really like to know 
> them:-)
>
>  Zuzana K.
>
>  P.S.: Here's a photo fro one scene of the film. Unfortunately, it's of a 
> very low quality, but it might help:-) 
> http://foto.kinox.ru/foto/011415_3.jpg
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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> Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Zuzana wrote:

> Hi all,
> I've always been fascinated by the costumes from "Trois mousquetaires" (1961,
> two parts, starring G.Barray), I've never seen a historical movie where the
> people in the costumes would look so good like here. I'm only a bit suspicious
> that the kind of women's costume was used a bit later than in the 1630s, but I
> can't tell for sure. Anyway, that's not the point I'm asking about:
> I really wonder how the dresses (here I mean mainly the costumes of the queen
> and milady) were made - If you look at the bodice, the silhouette is slightly
> curved, which gives the impression of an underbust corset or something. That
> wouldn't really go with the period, as I know, there used to be quite straight
> bodices. This unusual shape makes me a bit confused. And - do you think the
> bodice could have been a part of a corset (stays...), like the boned bodice in
> lining? And if not - was it attached to the skirt or not? It shouldn't be, but
> if there would not be any stiffening in the bodice, how come it always looks
> so tight and makes no folds?
> The next thing is the skirt. I really like that shape, the way it widens at
> the hips. I'd really like to know how the petticoat looked like. Was it a wide
> rectangle, so wide that folded it took so much space at the hips, or was it
> curved (smaller at the waist, wider at the bottom)? Maybe the full-hips shape
> could have been created by a bumroll. If yes, what was the shape? With regular
> width, like shown here
> http://www.fashion-era.com/images/AdornCorsetry/bumroll30.jpg, or like Drea
> Leed's (or Dawn's) pattern http://costume.dm.net/bumroll.html?
> Please if you have any ideas on that subject, I'd really like to know them:-)
> 
> Zuzana K.
> 
> P.S.: Here's a photo fro one scene of the film. Unfortunately, it's of a very
> low quality, but it might help:-)  http://foto.kinox.ru/foto/011415_3.jpg
> 

I have never seen these films, but judging by the photo you sent, the
costumes (at least of those two women) are not authentically made. How they
WERE made, I don't know... I assume that the strange shapes of the bodices
mean that they were all made in one piece with some sort of bustier or
long-line bra and girdle. They have a sort of 1950s-1960s shape, and are
skin-tight, so there can't be many layers. Then the skirts are just added on
in whatever way the costume designer liked. If you are interested in
recreating these, you would probably have the most luck by looking at books
about movie costume design at the time. They remind me of the basic shape of
women's costumes from many Hollywood films and musicals. Very pretty, but
very "Hollywood."

Have you seen the "Three Musketeers" and the "Four Musketeers" with Michael
York, Richard Chamberlain, and Oliver Reed? Talk about costumes!!! They are
amazing, and they have recently become available on DVD. Although again,
Raquel Welch's costumes were designed differently from all the rest, and are
not authentic. But very pretty.

Gail Finke



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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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1975? On imdb.com is only a 1974 "The four Musketeers". Then what's the other movie you meant? Anyway, I've seen The four musketeers some years ago, so I don't really remember the costumes (I wasn't interested in them yet), but I think I'll definitively download it... Michael York is my favorite actor:-)
   
  AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
  
Hmmmmmm...

The gowns look to me like late-50s - early 60s , and I mean 1950s and 60s, 
silhouettes with some 17th century details added. They do fit like a glove, I 
will admit.

If you want some accuracy in your 3 Musketeers, I suggest the 1975 version. 
Actually, you need to get the "Four Musketeers" too to get the whole 
film....this one's in 2 parts to...]with Michael York, Richard Chamberlain, Oliver 
Reed, Charlton Heston, Christopher Lee, Faye Dunaway, Raquel Welch, and 
everybody else you can think of. [I love Geraldine Chapman as Queen Anne] Actually, 
both films now come together in one package with special features and stuff. 
Fantastic clothes by Yvonne Blake....but not Raquel's clothes, who were done 
by her husband, I think. Her things resemble what you get in "Trois 
mousquetaires" actually and you can clearly see the contrast when she's standing next 
to Chapman who is in some magnificently accurate gown.

Besides, the films, directed by Richard Lester [the 1st "Superman" movies 
and the Beatles' films]are great!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
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In a message dated 2/14/2006 1:50:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
zkraemerova@yahoo.com writes:

I've  never seen a historical movie where the people in the costumes would 
look so  good like here.


Hmmmmmm...
 
The gowns look to me like late-50s - early 60s , and I mean 1950s and  60s, 
silhouettes with some 17th century details added. They do fit like a glove,  I 
will admit.
 
If you want some accuracy in your 3 Musketeers, I suggest the 1975 version.  
Actually, you need to get the "Four Musketeers" too to get the whole  
film....this one's in 2 parts to...]with Michael York, Richard Chamberlain,  Oliver 
Reed, Charlton Heston, Christopher Lee, Faye Dunaway, Raquel Welch, and  
everybody else you can think of. [I love Geraldine Chapman as Queen Anne]  Actually, 
both films now come together in one package with special features and  stuff. 
Fantastic clothes by Yvonne Blake....but not Raquel's clothes, who were  done 
by her husband, I think. Her things resemble what you get in "Trois  
mousquetaires" actually and you can clearly see the contrast when she's standing  next 
to Chapman who is in some magnificently accurate gown.
 
Besides, the films, directed by Richard Lester [the 1st "Superman" movies  
and the Beatles' films]are great!
_______________________________________________
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From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I was leaning towards the chemise under the smock too, since you wouldn't want all that embroidery to have to be washed a lot and not only is the construction easier, it's easier to wear as a smock than a partlet and sleeves with this style of gown/sleeve, IMHO of course.
   
  alex 

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
  
In a message dated 2/14/2006 10:17:33 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
garbaholic@sbcglobal.net writes:

Just curious, why do you think this is not an embroidered smock but partlet 
and sleeves?



I wondered that too...but you can see a smidgen of a chemise underneath...at 
the CF opening. Of course that doesn't mean it's not a smock worn over a 
chemise.
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <20060214174641.11433.qmail@web37506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 20:47:23 +0100
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Hi Zuzanna,
I looked at the picture from the movie you sended a link to.
The costumes looks gorgeous, but:
The bodices are much two long. The cavallier style had high waists, and for 
some reason movies always makes the bodices two long in my oppinion.
There is only one bodice/ corset survived from the period, and my guess its 
a working womans stays.
I think they wore a bodice under the dress wich had a peplum or large tabs. 
And i would guess there was lacing holes on top of the tabs, to hold up a 
small bumroll.
Corsets must have ben worn to give this push up breasts, and smooth bodice. 
How they looked like, i really would have loved to see.
If you have the book, Evolution of Fashion, wich not many people like 
because it is theater cuts, really in my oppinion gives a good idea of how 
the cunstruktion would have ben like, as a matter of fact i once did the 
1625 version with the standing collar, and it looked really nice.
Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 6:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"


> Hi all,
>  I've always been fascinated by the costumes from "Trois mousquetaires" 
> (1961, two parts, starring G.Barray), I've never seen a historical movie 
> where the people in the costumes would look so good like here. I'm only a 
> bit suspicious that the kind of women's costume was used a bit later than 
> in the 1630s, but I can't tell for sure. Anyway, that's not the point I'm 
> asking about:
>  I really wonder how the dresses (here I mean mainly the costumes of the 
> queen and milady) were made - If you look at the bodice, the silhouette is 
> slightly curved, which gives the impression of an underbust corset or 
> something. That wouldn't really go with the period, as I know, there used 
> to be quite straight bodices. This unusual shape makes me a bit confused. 
> And - do you think the bodice could have been a part of a corset 
> (stays...), like the boned bodice in lining? And if not - was it attached 
> to the skirt or not? It shouldn't be, but if there would not be any 
> stiffening in the bodice, how come it always looks so tight and makes no 
> folds?
>  The next thing is the skirt. I really like that shape, the way it widens 
> at the hips. I'd really like to know how the petticoat looked like. Was it 
> a wide rectangle, so wide that folded it took so much space at the hips, 
> or was it curved (smaller at the waist, wider at the bottom)? Maybe the 
> full-hips shape could have been created by a bumroll. If yes, what was the 
> shape? With regular width, like shown here 
> http://www.fashion-era.com/images/AdornCorsetry/bumroll30.jpg, or like 
> Drea Leed's (or Dawn's) pattern http://costume.dm.net/bumroll.html?
>  Please if you have any ideas on that subject, I'd really like to know 
> them:-)
>
>  Zuzana K.
>
>  P.S.: Here's a photo fro one scene of the film. Unfortunately, it's of a 
> very low quality, but it might help:-) 
> http://foto.kinox.ru/foto/011415_3.jpg
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Mail
> Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking
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Hi all,

Forgive me if you've seen this question on another list before, but I 
didn't get any response, so I was hoping those learned folk here would be 
able to provide some insight.

I've been looking at the online effigies database 
(http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies), and was struck by the views 
of the women's garments from the 1520s to mid 1530s. Most images of that 
time frame don't go below the waist, so it's very nice to be able to view 
the feet, and bottoms of the kirtles and gowns. But when I see that the 
kirtles are flowing over the feet, I have to wonder. How do the ladies in 
the earlier Tudor (Henry VIII) era walk when their kirtles seem to be 
longer than they are tall?

Examples are:
Oakley woman (unknown) c1520
http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=81

Edith Pexall née Brocas (c1535)
http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=95

Did they always have to lift all their skirts up to walk? Were they meant 
to be worn over farthingales, but just didn't wear the farthingales for the 
effigies? (I'm not even positive if farthingales were worn in England 
during this time frame.) I see dress hooks holding up the front of the 
gown, but what about the overflowing kirtles? Is it something else entirely?

I also find it interesting that the gown hems are much shorter than kirtle 
hems. From the looks of things, gown hems appear to end above the ankles or so.

I would love any and all comments, thoughts, or even speculation on this, 
please.

Thank you,
Kimiko

Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress
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Thank you. This looks to be worn under a dress as a combination forepart and
plastron.
Thank you again. :)
De

-----Original Message-----
Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.x=3
&submit.y=10&coll_start=81

Bjarne


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> Have you seen the "Three Musketeers" and the "Four Musketeers" with 
> Michael
> York, Richard Chamberlain, and Oliver Reed? Talk about costumes!!! They 
> are
> amazing, and they have recently become available on DVD. Although again,
> Raquel Welch's costumes were designed differently from all the rest, and 
> are
> not authentic. But very pretty.
>
> Gail Finke

This is the period in which I specialize and I have never seen such good 
costuming in a film.  Completely ignore everything Raquel Welch is wearing 
and the rest are amazing.  The Queen's costumes were taking almost line for 
line from some of her portraits, and so were the King's.  There are a 
multitude of tavern and town scenes that I recognize from paintings, also.

The corsetry of this time is an unknown.  The only existant corsetry between 
1603 and 1650 is a bodice in the V&A with a boned lining, although I have 
heard rumors of a corset tentively dated to 1635 having recently been found 
within an English farmhouse wall.  From extensive study of the visual 
evidence, it's pretty clear that they wore some sort of foundation garment, 
because while the dresses and necklines have a more natural, rounded look 
than previously, they are still very smooth and supported.  My own personal 
theory is that some women discarded their corsets and went with boned 
linings in their dresses, but most probably all of them didn't.  Just look 
at how many women still wore bras during the 1970's "braless" era.  Again, 
my theory from experimenting with the shape and boning placement for corsets 
under these styles, is that it's something between the very flat fronted 
Elizabethan styles, and the very rounded, off the shoulder style of the 
1660's.  The corsets I wear with my 1635 dresses are cut much like the 
Elizabethan effigy corset, but with a higher back, higher waist, tabs cut in 
a piece with the body like the 1660's design, and horizontal (actually 
slightly diagonal) boning at the center front neckline.  It seems to work 
pretty well and gives me more of a rounded front shape than the 
Elizabethans, without looking too late.

Disclaimer:  most of the above are my opinions and theories.  If anyone has 
knowlege of existant garments that I don't, I'd love to know about it.

Melusine 

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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
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References: <6.2.1.2.0.20060213182007.033e16c0@64.87.54.245>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking
Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 20:36:54 -0400
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Not sure why the 'gown shorter than the kirtle' idea? Can you explain?

As for the length of dresses seeming long, we in the modern era walk 
differently than ladies of the historical era would have. If, when you are 
walking, you let your toes drop to a relax point when stepping forward, it 
is difficult to step on your hem, as you push it away with the toe of your 
foot.  There is also a little half kick/ swirl movement to move your back 
hem (which is sometimes trained) out of the way when you turn around. The 
only time I ever lift my skirt hem is when I'm climbing stairs.

Kelly/estela
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:29 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking


> Hi all,
>
> Forgive me if you've seen this question on another list before, but I 
> didn't get any response, so I was hoping those learned folk here would be 
> able to provide some insight.
>
> I've been looking at the online effigies database 
> (http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies), and was struck by the views 
> of the women's garments from the 1520s to mid 1530s. Most images of that 
> time frame don't go below the waist, so it's very nice to be able to view 
> the feet, and bottoms of the kirtles and gowns. But when I see that the 
> kirtles are flowing over the feet, I have to wonder. How do the ladies in 
> the earlier Tudor (Henry VIII) era walk when their kirtles seem to be 
> longer than they are tall?
>
> Examples are:
> Oakley woman (unknown) c1520
> http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=81
>
> Edith Pexall née Brocas (c1535)
> http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=95
>
> Did they always have to lift all their skirts up to walk? Were they meant 
> to be worn over farthingales, but just didn't wear the farthingales for 
> the effigies? (I'm not even positive if farthingales were worn in England 
> during this time frame.) I see dress hooks holding up the front of the 
> gown, but what about the overflowing kirtles? Is it something else 
> entirely?
>
> I also find it interesting that the gown hems are much shorter than kirtle 
> hems. From the looks of things, gown hems appear to end above the ankles 
> or so.
>
> I would love any and all comments, thoughts, or even speculation on this, 
> please.
>
> Thank you,
> Kimiko
>
> Kimiko Small
> http://www.kimiko1.com
> Fresno, CA, USA
>
> "Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
> Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
> Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
>  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
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In a message dated 2/14/2006 5:34:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

Those  
French....they may not be accurate, but they are  beautifully  executed!



****************
 
 
Hey....I made a French Revolution joke!!!!   :-P
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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Is there a way to make a smock that can create the illusion of being 
different parts and still be accuate? With my daughter being so young, I 
think that fewer layers would be better for her. She won't be in any 
competition of costume so I think we can fudge the costume for comfort and 
design. It only has to please us. She'd like it whether it was "period" or 
not, as long as it looked like the ones we saw last year. She tried on a 
costume that was all one piece, including a collar that stood up behing the 
head. It fit her so well and she wanted it. I ran out of money long before 
we got to that vender. I purchased fabrics to make my gown and that wasn't 
cheap. My sister bought her a French hood and she wore it all day. When we 
found the costume, the vender let her try it on and I got a picture. At 
least we got that much. She planned to go back this year and play the part. 
She made friends and she will look them up for sure.
Could be worse. She could be interested in the black hair and chains of the 
goth crowd. I'm not sure I could handle that. Dressing up for Renaissance 
Faire, we can share the time and have fun, too. This is my favorite time for 
costumes.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alex Doyle" <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses


>I was leaning towards the chemise under the smock too, since you wouldn't 
>want all that embroidery to have to be washed a lot and not only is the 
>construction easier, it's easier to wear as a smock than a partlet and 
>sleeves with this style of gown/sleeve, IMHO of course.
>
>  alex
>
> AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 2/14/2006 10:17:33 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> garbaholic@sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> Just curious, why do you think this is not an embroidered smock but 
> partlet
> and sleeves?
>
>
>
> I wondered that too...but you can see a smidgen of a chemise 
> underneath...at
> the CF opening. Of course that doesn't mean it's not a smock worn over a
> chemise.
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>
>
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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 00:56:25 +0000
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Subject: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German
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   I hope someone can assist me.  One of the members of my "household" wants to take a look at what a 10th to the 11th C. German. craftsman would have worn.  I tried to look through the net - but must not of worded my search correctly because I could not find anything.   Thanks!

Roscelin
   
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Subject: [h-cost] Knitting Historians?
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   Recently there was a discussion about the history of knitting.  I didn't really pay to much attention to it since I do not knit.  But a friend of mine is a knitter and wants to talk to anyone who does know the history of knitting.
    If you can help, would you please contact me privately so I can get my friend in contact with you.

Roscelin

By the way, please excuse this question if it has been discussed.  When did crocheting come along?  I was told long ago that it started after 1650 - Is this true?   I've been trying to convince a few of my needlework students that it is out of period for our group.
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> Thank you. This looks to be worn under a dress as a combination forepart and
> plastron.

Ooh, now that's something that I hadn't considered!

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor roses again
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Hello again,  
    Thanks again for all the links.  I was planning on
a padded satin stitch for the roses, more like the
Helena Snakenborg, but with more of a scatter pattern
like some of the Italian shifts.  Thanks again.
                               Cassandra

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Status: RO

What's a "plastron"? I looked up and the range was all over the place. I 
found one necklace of the Romanovs that was gorgeous but I don't know if 
that is what the term applies to or not.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 8:07 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress


> Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:
>
>> Thank you. This looks to be worn under a dress as a combination forepart 
>> and
>> plastron.
>
> Ooh, now that's something that I hadn't considered!
>
> Jerusha
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 15:14:30 +1300
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> Is there a way to make a smock that can create the illusion of being
> different parts and still be accuate?

Well the intent of the sleeves is to not look different to the partlet, if
they are indeed seperate items;)

I personally feel she is wearing a garment similar to the smock in the V&A
that is heavily embroidered and would surely not have been worn next to the
skin:
http://costume.dm.net/va/smocks.html
There is a typo, the chemise is all linen, but of two grades. It is not a
silk upper half.


In regards to seperate items, I am not discounting that they exist.

Does anyone remember what book has a picture of some blackworked sleeves in
it? I know there is also a picture of uncut blackworked sleeves somewhere
else as well.

They show that there were indeed seperate items, even aside from what is in
written inventories (which can be hard to understand given the change of
language over time.)

michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPAEIPFNAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 19:35:43 -0700
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Status: RO

It could be a shirt (embroidered shirts with collars have certainly
survived), but I think people may also be keyed into the bits that show up
in texts (such as the lists of New Year's gifts in _Queen Elizabeth's
Wardrobe unlocked), and detail "partlets and sleeves" as a "set" and not a
single item.
I'd love to make an outfit based on this portrait some day (although my plan
is to embroider sprigs of columbine, instead of roses), and I've always
figured I'd have a plain, narrow-sleeved, square-necked smock underneath
(with a bit of embroidery around the neckline), and the fancy bits I'd do as
a shirt, if only so I wouldn't have to hassle with tying another set of
things together....
I'd also do separate ruff/cuffs, for ease in washing.  And I'd love to do
the gown in a good blue or perhaps purple or green wool (something to
coordinate with the columbines).
All-natural fibers and hand-sewn, of course!
--Sue, back-sliding 16th century costuming geek ;o)


----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 8:27 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses


> Though I am not 100% sure that it is a partlet and sleeves, it looks as if
> she is wearing a chemise under the alleged partlet.
> Though once upon a time I would have said "because the sleeves and partlet
> look of different materials" but I have noticed a while back that the
> sleeves don't match real well either. :P
> I have noticed that the majority of costumers that have interpreted this
> portrait believe that it is a shirt. For convenience of construction I
would
> probably make a shirt but I would still think that it is three separate
> pieces.
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg
>
> De
>
>   Just curious, why do you think this is not an embroidered smock but
> partlet and sleeves?
>
>   alex


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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses
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Oh, how interesting! I always figured the puffs were faked, since they show
no signs of embroidery....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor roses


> In my interpretation of the portrait, I believe that the puffed sections
are
> attached to the bodice and the rose embroidered sleeves are detachable.
But
> others have interpreted the what I believe is a partlet and sleeves to be
a
> shirt.
<snipped>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting Historians?
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Hi. Most historians of knitting (there are only a few major ones and a 
lot of amateurs) agree that crochet started after 1650. There are a 
number of other techniques that superficially resemble each other, but 
those who practice them can show you the differences. Your friend wants 
to do a search on the works of Richard Rutt and Irena Turnau, the 
authors of the two most current scholarly works on the subject of 
knitting. The Turnau monograph may be available only through ILL, 
though, and Rutt's book is somewhat expensive, even as a reprint. Good 
Luck, Mike T.


>   Recently there was a discussion about the history of knitting.  I didn't really pay to much attention to it since I do not knit.  But a friend of mine is a knitter and wants to talk to anyone who does know the history of knitting.
>    If you can help, would you please contact me privately so I can get my friend in contact with you.
>
>Roscelin
>
>By the way, please excuse this question if it has been discussed.  When did crocheting come along?  I was told long ago that it started after 1650 - Is this true?   I've been trying to convince a few of my needlework students that it is out of period for our group.
>_______________________________________________
>
>  
>
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Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 19:12:11 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting Historians?
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>By the way, please excuse this question if it has been discussed.  When 
>did crocheting come along?  I was told long ago that it started after 1650 
>- Is this true?   I've been trying to convince a few of my needlework 
>students that it is out of period for our group.

Something like 1830, last I heard.  It seems to be an outgrowth of tambour, 
which is chin stitch right thru fabric, very popular in the early 1800s.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 22:42:37 -0500
From: "RON CARNEGIE" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting Historians?
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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In a related note, no really, do you have a more current email address for 
the fine establishment of "The Practical Goose".  I met you and them some 
few years ago at Pennisc, and believe you to be better acquainted to them 
than am I.  I have a friend who would like to send some business there way, 
but the most recent address I have seems faulty.

Ron Carnegie


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael tartaglio" <mikes@dandy.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting Historians?


> Hi. Most historians of knitting (there are only a few major ones and a lot 
> of amateurs) agree that crochet started after 1650. There are a number of 
> other techniques that superficially resemble each other, but those who 
> practice them can show you the differences. Your friend wants to do a 
> search on the works of Richard Rutt and Irena Turnau, the authors of the 
> two most current scholarly works on the subject of knitting. The Turnau 
> monograph may be available only through ILL, though, and Rutt's book is 
> somewhat expensive, even as a reprint. Good Luck, Mike T.
>
>
>>   Recently there was a discussion about the history of knitting.  I 
>> didn't really pay to much attention to it since I do not knit.  But a 
>> friend of mine is a knitter and wants to talk to anyone who does know the 
>> history of knitting.
>>    If you can help, would you please contact me privately so I can get my 
>> friend in contact with you.
>>
>>Roscelin
>>
>>By the way, please excuse this question if it has been discussed.  When 
>>did crocheting come along?  I was told long ago that it started after 
>>1650 - Is this true?   I've been trying to convince a few of my needlework 
>>students that it is out of period for our group.
>>_______________________________________________
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 19:36:11 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress
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At 09:42 AM 2/14/2006, you wrote:
>Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
>http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.x=3&submit.y=10&coll_start=81
>
>Bjarne


Thank you Bjarne,

I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this interesting 
gown, from the House of Worth.
http://tinyurl.com/92mz4

I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for the well 
to do. I could almost see this gown on a "friend of faire" person, someone 
who likes to dress up with something that looks kinda right, but isn't.

And in purple velvet, it's rather fetching.

Kimiko


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Ooo...look what I found.
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
De

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Okay perhaps I used the wrong label at least the online dictionarys seem to
say so. It is usually defined as an ornamental, detachable front of a
woman's bodice similar to a stomacher?
This is a stomacher to give a rough idea.
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_230.htm
De

-----Original Message-----
What's a "plastron"? I looked up and the range was all over the place. I
found one necklace of the Romanovs that was gorgeous but I don't know if
that is what the term applies to or not.




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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor roses
Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 22:59:40 -0600
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Status: RO

Oops, I need to clarify. Yes the puffs are fake from my interpretation of
the painting. I was trying through a fogged brain (still a bit fogged) to
say the "epaulette"(?) or the sleeve section with the poofs coming out is
attached to the gown bodice and the embroidered sleeves which I believe are
detachable are tied onto either the corset or the arms eye of the gown's
bodice.
Does this make any sense?
De

-----Original Message-----
Oh, how interesting! I always figured the puffs were faked, since they show
no signs of embroidery....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----

> In my interpretation of the portrait, I believe that the puffed sections
are
> attached to the bodice and the rose embroidered sleeves are detachable.
But
> others have interpreted the what I believe is a partlet and sleeves to be
a
> shirt.
<snipped>


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 23:09:43 -0600
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Status: RO

What did the dresses at the Ren Fest look like?
Also, What period/year did you say you were trying for for hers and your
costumes?
You can get away with (if it is Tudor/Henry VIII style) a
shift/chemise/shirt and the gown. Chemise could be lower thigh to knee
length. You already have the headgear.
If you can afford it. Get a light weight white linen for hers and yours
chemises or 100% cotton. The linen fabric breaths and you will be somewhat
cooler.
De
-----Original Message-----
Is there a way to make a smock that can create the illusion of being
different parts and still be accuate? With my daughter being so young, I
think that fewer layers would be better for her. She won't be in any
competition of costume so I think we can fudge the costume for comfort and
design. It only has to please us. She'd like it whether it was "period" or
not, as long as it looked like the ones we saw last year. She tried on a
costume that was all one piece, including a collar that stood up behing the
head. It fit her so well and she wanted it. I ran out of money long before
we got to that vender. I purchased fabrics to make my gown and that wasn't
cheap. My sister bought her a French hood and she wore it all day. When we
found the costume, the vender let her try it on and I got a picture. At
least we got that much. She planned to go back this year and play the part.
She made friends and she will look them up for sure.
Could be worse. She could be interested in the black hair and chains of the
goth crowd. I'm not sure I could handle that. Dressing up for Renaissance
Faire, we can share the time and have fun, too. This is my favorite time for
costumes.


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking
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What I learned was that as castles were very cold and during religious
services, everyone stood (no benches, ladies would actually stand on their
long skirts for comfort and warmth.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kimiko Small
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 6:30 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking


Hi all,

Forgive me if you've seen this question on another list before, but I 
didn't get any response, so I was hoping those learned folk here would be 
able to provide some insight.

I've been looking at the online effigies database 
(http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies), and was struck by the views 
of the women's garments from the 1520s to mid 1530s. Most images of that 
time frame don't go below the waist, so it's very nice to be able to view 
the feet, and bottoms of the kirtles and gowns. But when I see that the 
kirtles are flowing over the feet, I have to wonder. How do the ladies in 
the earlier Tudor (Henry VIII) era walk when their kirtles seem to be 
longer than they are tall?

Examples are:
Oakley woman (unknown) c1520
http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=81

Edith Pexall née Brocas (c1535)
http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=95

Did they always have to lift all their skirts up to walk? Were they meant 
to be worn over farthingales, but just didn't wear the farthingales for the 
effigies? (I'm not even positive if farthingales were worn in England 
during this time frame.) I see dress hooks holding up the front of the 
gown, but what about the overflowing kirtles? Is it something else entirely?

I also find it interesting that the gown hems are much shorter than kirtle 
hems. From the looks of things, gown hems appear to end above the ankles or
so.

I would love any and all comments, thoughts, or even speculation on this, 
please.

Thank you,
Kimiko

Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires Lady Clifford,
Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)


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From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking
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I recently had the experience to spend the day outside in a misting rainy enviroment in skirts that touched the ground, if not lay upon the ground a bit.  Even though the bottom ten inches or so were wet, my ankles and legs were not so cold as they were a little later when I found a belt that I could use to tuck up my skirts and get them off the wet ground.  The longer the skirts are the less draft that can get up your skirts, therefore you stay warmer.  I have also found I walk very differently in long skirts.  One thing is I tend not to walk as fast, so skirts don't get tangled in my legs.  The other is that for short steps up, I do a kind of kick with the front hem and the skirts don't get caught under my feet as I step up.  
   
  alex

"Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
  What I learned was that as castles were very cold and during religious
services, everyone stood (no benches, ladies would actually stand on their
long skirts for comfort and warmth.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kimiko Small
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 6:30 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking


Hi all,

Forgive me if you've seen this question on another list before, but I 
didn't get any response, so I was hoping those learned folk here would be 
able to provide some insight.

I've been looking at the online effigies database 
(http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies), and was struck by the views 
of the women's garments from the 1520s to mid 1530s. Most images of that 
time frame don't go below the waist, so it's very nice to be able to view 
the feet, and bottoms of the kirtles and gowns. But when I see that the 
kirtles are flowing over the feet, I have to wonder. How do the ladies in 
the earlier Tudor (Henry VIII) era walk when their kirtles seem to be 
longer than they are tall?

Examples are:
Oakley woman (unknown) c1520
http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=81

Edith Pexall née Brocas (c1535)
http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=95

Did they always have to lift all their skirts up to walk? Were they meant 
to be worn over farthingales, but just didn't wear the farthingales for the 
effigies? (I'm not even positive if farthingales were worn in England 
during this time frame.) I see dress hooks holding up the front of the 
gown, but what about the overflowing kirtles? Is it something else entirely?

I also find it interesting that the gown hems are much shorter than kirtle 
hems. From the looks of things, gown hems appear to end above the ankles or
so.

I would love any and all comments, thoughts, or even speculation on this, 
please.

Thank you,
Kimiko

Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires Lady Clifford,
Countess of Cumberland
(Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)


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Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 22:11:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Ooo...look what I found.
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
> De

I LOVE this website!  I know that they show the details to help sell the
clothing but it is AWESOME for us historical costumers that may not ever
get to study garments like these in person.

Thanks so much for sharing!  I am trying to design my wedding gown which
will roughly be from this period and I am trying to find out all I can
about construction techniques.  This new colonial dress will be a big
help.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 01:30:57 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting Historians?
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Hi Rosecelin,

      A good source of knit historians is the Historic Kint list. 
It's a Yahoogroup,
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/historicknit/

      You didn't say what era you friend prefers - different people 
concentrate on different time periods, cultures, etc.  There are a 
lot of great discussions.

      And we have talked about crochet, too, and it's beginnings.  I 
do 18th century and crochet is not around for that era, either.

      -Carol


>>>   Recently there was a discussion about the history of knitting. 
>>>I didn't really pay to much attention to it since I do not knit. 
>>>But a friend of mine is a knitter and wants to talk to anyone who 
>>>does know the history of knitting.
>>>    If you can help, would you please contact me privately so I can 
>>>get my friend in contact with you.
>>>
>>>Roscelin
>>>
>>>By the way, please excuse this question if it has been discussed. 
>>>When did crocheting come along?  I was told long ago that it 
>>>started after 1650 - Is this true?  I've been trying to convince a 
>>>few of my needlework students that it is out of period for our 
>>>group.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume for Elizabeth
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 01:08:00 -0800
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On my Tribe list, there is someone selling a Ren costume for an 8 yr old.
Interested? If so, I'll send her your e-mail.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Becky
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 5:52 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses


Elizabeth likes the Unknown child7 picture. That is the basic design I 
wanted to use. I'll keep that one to use for reference.
Thanks.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 1:31 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor roses


> What kind of embroidery? Blackwork?
> If your daughter is trying to be Elizabeth I as a Princess then you 
> are looking at early Tudor styles for women. Some children in 
> portraits of the 1500s. 
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild1.jpg  1590 
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild1.jpg  1575-80 
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ArabellaStewart.jpg 1577 
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/WilliamBrooke.jpg  1567 
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild7.jpg  1545 Florence
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Bia.jpg 1542
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild6.jpg 1541
> French/German?
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/TBJacquelineBourgogne.jpg 1530
>
> As for roses, this is a partlet and sleeves not a shift but good for 
> inspiration http://www.tudor-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg
>
> De
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Hi all,
>   I'd like to embroider some Tudor roses on a shift
> and I cannot draw, really cannot draw.  So I would
> like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find
> black and white line drawings of Tudor roses,
> preferably the five petal kind.  Books with this kind
> of line drawing would also be great.  Other Tudor
> flowers suitable for embroidery would also be of
> interest for later but I would like to get started on
> the roses soon.
>                            Thanks,  Cassandra
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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Hi Kimiko,
 I walk and dance quite easily in 14th century dresses that are about
10-15cm longer than me at the front. The only time it becomes
inconvenient is going up stairs or up a slope, or when you are
carrying a lot of stuff as then it becomes difficult to get into the right
way of walking. It's definitely an upper class thing, but the skirt
puddling around the feet when you're standing still is quite an
attractive effect.

With regard to the shorter gowns, in the first link there, the woman's
gown is clearly looped up over something (it's not her girdle, that is
just above it). In the second the gown is definitely shorter, but there
is a note with it saying that the Venetian ambassador noted in the 1550's
that it was common for English women to have the gown shorter
than the kirtle. I can't say this is something I've ever noticed, but
I haven't paid a lot of attention to later Tudor (it's certainly nothing
I've picked up in early Tudor dress), and the portraits from then do
tend to mostly show the upper half.

Claire
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:29 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking


> Hi all,
>
> Forgive me if you've seen this question on another list before, but I
> didn't get any response, so I was hoping those learned folk here would be
> able to provide some insight.
>
> I've been looking at the online effigies database
> (http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies), and was struck by the views
> of the women's garments from the 1520s to mid 1530s. Most images of that
> time frame don't go below the waist, so it's very nice to be able to view
> the feet, and bottoms of the kirtles and gowns. But when I see that the
> kirtles are flowing over the feet, I have to wonder. How do the ladies in
> the earlier Tudor (Henry VIII) era walk when their kirtles seem to be
> longer than they are tall?
>
> Examples are:
> Oakley woman (unknown) c1520
> http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=81
>
> Edith Pexall née Brocas (c1535)
> http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=95
>
> Did they always have to lift all their skirts up to walk? Were they meant
> to be worn over farthingales, but just didn't wear the farthingales for
> the effigies? (I'm not even positive if farthingales were worn in England
> during this time frame.) I see dress hooks holding up the front of the
> gown, but what about the overflowing kirtles? Is it something else
> entirely?
>
> I also find it interesting that the gown hems are much shorter than kirtle
> hems. From the looks of things, gown hems appear to end above the ankles
> or so.
>
> I would love any and all comments, thoughts, or even speculation on this,
> please.
>
> Thank you,
> Kimiko
>
> Kimiko Small
> http://www.kimiko1.com
> Fresno, CA, USA
>
> "Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
> Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
> Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
>  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)
>
>
> _______________________________________________ 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Feb 15 05:35:40 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <13f.24c25a2d.3123d343@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 11:34:32 +0100
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Made my day, beautifully executet was this with the guillotine?

Just kittin

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 1:43 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"


> 
> In a message dated 2/14/2006 5:34:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
> 
> Those  
> French....they may not be accurate, but they are  beautifully  executed!
> 
> 
> 
> ****************
> 
> 
> Hey....I made a French Revolution joke!!!!   :-P
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Feb 15 05:41:57 2006
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	<000f01c631d8$8536dce0$d7bfa6d8@pavilion>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 11:41:07 +0100
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Oh that sounds absoloutely lovely. I tryed to look up Colombines in my 
dictionary, but could not find it. Wich flowers are that?

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 3:35 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses


> It could be a shirt (embroidered shirts with collars have certainly
> survived), but I think people may also be keyed into the bits that show up
> in texts (such as the lists of New Year's gifts in _Queen Elizabeth's
> Wardrobe unlocked), and detail "partlets and sleeves" as a "set" and not a
> single item.
> I'd love to make an outfit based on this portrait some day (although my 
> plan
> is to embroider sprigs of columbine, instead of roses), and I've always
> figured I'd have a plain, narrow-sleeved, square-necked smock underneath
> (with a bit of embroidery around the neckline), and the fancy bits I'd do 
> as
> a shirt, if only so I wouldn't have to hassle with tying another set of
> things together....
> I'd also do separate ruff/cuffs, for ease in washing.  And I'd love to do
> the gown in a good blue or perhaps purple or green wool (something to
> coordinate with the columbines).
> All-natural fibers and hand-sewn, of course!
> --Sue, back-sliding 16th century costuming geek ;o)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 8:27 AM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
>
>
>> Though I am not 100% sure that it is a partlet and sleeves, it looks as 
>> if
>> she is wearing a chemise under the alleged partlet.
>> Though once upon a time I would have said "because the sleeves and 
>> partlet
>> look of different materials" but I have noticed a while back that the
>> sleeves don't match real well either. :P
>> I have noticed that the majority of costumers that have interpreted this
>> portrait believe that it is a shirt. For convenience of construction I
> would
>> probably make a shirt but I would still think that it is three separate
>> pieces.
>> De
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg
>>
>> De
>>
>>   Just curious, why do you think this is not an embroidered smock but
>> partlet and sleeves?
>>
>>   alex
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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	<6.2.1.2.0.20060214193333.034258c8@64.87.54.245>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 11:48:55 +0100
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Thats interresting. Its funny they want to keep the edwardian shape even for 
renaissance.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 4:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress


> At 09:42 AM 2/14/2006, you wrote:
>>Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
>>http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.x=3&submit.y=10&coll_start=81
>>
>>Bjarne
>
>
> Thank you Bjarne,
>
> I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this interesting 
> gown, from the House of Worth.
> http://tinyurl.com/92mz4
>
> I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for the 
> well to do. I could almost see this gown on a "friend of faire" person, 
> someone who likes to dress up with something that looks kinda right, but 
> isn't.
>
> And in purple velvet, it's rather fetching.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Hi,
We disgussed this dress some time ago on 18th century womens list. The most 
interresting thing about it is the lace wich is used for the trimmings. We 
ended up with that this could be the USA made Ipswich laces.
This pattern must be very old, as i have the same pattern in a Tønder Lace.
Very easy to do.........

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 5:29 AM
Subject: [h-cost] colonial


> Ooo...look what I found.
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
> De
>
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Columbine, was Smock or Partlet
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Its Latin name is Aquilegia

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> drewscph@post12.tele.dk 15/02/2006 10:41 >>>
Oh that sounds absoloutely lovely. I tryed to look up Colombines in my 
dictionary, but could not find it. Wich flowers are that?

Bjarne
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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 05:15:56 -0600
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Oooo wedding dress!!!!!:) What color? 
De

-----Original Message-----
Thanks so much for sharing!  I am trying to design my wedding gown which
will roughly be from this period and I am trying to find out all I can
about construction techniques.  This new colonial dress will be a big
help.

Diana


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress
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Almost like the Renaissance Italy versions of the Roman classic styles.
De

-----Original Message-----
Thats interresting. Its funny they want to keep the edwardian shape even for
renaissance.

Bjarne

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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
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Holy Crapola, that dress is beautiful, but really badly mounted.  So I 
wouldn't trust all of their information, especially about the gown meeting 
edge to edge at the centrefront.  I wish they had taken the time to mount 
the dress proprely, then you would be able to see all it's glory in the 
photos...they are great photos, I'm bummed ;-(

If you are interested in more information about dresses from this time 
period, check out Janet Arnold's book on this period, also Louisbourg 
National Historic Site, published booklets on clothing from this time period 
a few years back, they are complete with patterns and tailoring details. 
Their website is http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/ , you may be able to contact 
them for a copy.

For those who are interested in this era, come join me and a few hundred 
others at Louisbourg's Grande Encampment this year!

Kelly/estela
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 2:11 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial


>
>> Ooo...look what I found.
>> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
>> De
>
> I LOVE this website!  I know that they show the details to help sell the
> clothing but it is AWESOME for us historical costumers that may not ever
> get to study garments like these in person.
>
> Thanks so much for sharing!  I am trying to design my wedding gown which
> will roughly be from this period and I am trying to find out all I can
> about construction techniques.  This new colonial dress will be a big
> help.
>
> Diana
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> "Become the change you want to see in the world."
> --Ghandi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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http://www.flowerpictures.net/perennials/columbine.htm
I think the Dutch call it Agley or Akelei.
A few other names, origins unknown: Culverwort, Jovisblume, Alderblume,
Glockenblume.

De

-----Original Message-----
Oh that sounds absolutely lovely. I tried to look up Colombines in my
dictionary, but could not find it. Which flowers are they?

Bjarne


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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 05:43:21 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Effigy Corset
In-Reply-To: <HGEEKKPFPKOJBDPGKLOCAENIMFAA.wandap@hevanet.com>
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I wore mine at Pennsic and was able to bend in every direction (I 
used only a single steel bone in the front for the large whalebone 
piece), as if I wasn't wearing it.  Admittedly, I did break some 
reeds at the waist doing this, but that didn't effect the comfort 
level or support.  In fact, the broken reeds affected things so 
minimally that I never did replace them before that corset got 
retired.  It was THE most comfortable thing I ever wore and was no 
trouble at all for potty breaks (provided it isn't too long in 
front), or at least no trouble than all those skirts etc... can possibly be.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 05:12 PM 2/12/2006, you wrote:
>To those who have made this corset.  How is it for bending over and/or
>twisting?  Can you bend over from the waist or do you do the Stewardess
>kneel down, back straight?  How about potty breaks?
>
>
>Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
>Never attribute to malice what can as easily
>be attributed to simple social ineptness

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How is the stomacher attached? It has tabs, but in the picture you linked to 
I don't see how it attached. The description said it was removable like a 
jewel. It covered the corset lacings. How was it held in place?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 11:35 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress


> Okay perhaps I used the wrong label at least the online dictionarys seem 
> to
> say so. It is usually defined as an ornamental, detachable front of a
> woman's bodice similar to a stomacher?
> This is a stomacher to give a rough idea.
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_230.htm
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> What's a "plastron"? I looked up and the range was all over the place. I
> found one necklace of the Romanovs that was gorgeous but I don't know if
> that is what the term applies to or not.
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Yes, I'd like to see it. I'd buy it if it is the correct one for her. The 
decision is up to her, but I know I can convience her if the price is right 
for me. Please forward my email to the person. I'd appreciate it.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 4:08 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume for Elizabeth


> On my Tribe list, there is someone selling a Ren costume for an 8 yr old.
> Interested? If so, I'll send her your e-mail.
> Sharon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Becky
> Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 5:52 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses
>
>
> Elizabeth likes the Unknown child7 picture. That is the basic design I
> wanted to use. I'll keep that one to use for reference.
> Thanks.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 1:31 AM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor roses
>
>
>> What kind of embroidery? Blackwork?
>> If your daughter is trying to be Elizabeth I as a Princess then you
>> are looking at early Tudor styles for women. Some children in
>> portraits of the 1500s.
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild1.jpg  1590
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild1.jpg  1575-80
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ArabellaStewart.jpg 1577
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/WilliamBrooke.jpg  1567
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild7.jpg  1545 Florence
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Bia.jpg 1542
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownChild6.jpg 1541
>> French/German?
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/TBJacquelineBourgogne.jpg 1530
>>
>> As for roses, this is a partlet and sleeves not a shift but good for
>> inspiration http://www.tudor-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg
>>
>> De
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> Hi all,
>>   I'd like to embroider some Tudor roses on a shift
>> and I cannot draw, really cannot draw.  So I would
>> like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find
>> black and white line drawings of Tudor roses,
>> preferably the five petal kind.  Books with this kind
>> of line drawing would also be great.  Other Tudor
>> flowers suitable for embroidery would also be of
>> interest for later but I would like to get started on
>> the roses soon.
>>                            Thanks,  Cassandra
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Yes. I've read just about every document on how to make these period 
costumes. I searched online for images and dairies for help. I found the 
diaries very helpful. I borrowed a copy of Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe 
Unlocked from a library. It had lots of details but not what I wanted... 
suggested patterns. Quite a heavy book!
I've seen the eyelet and ribbon attachments on several examples. I saved 
where they were and images to a disk so I have a collection of parts to use 
for my costume. I have patterns to use for parts and I guess it'll be a 
pick-and-choose to get it all like I want.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 11:59 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor roses


> Oops, I need to clarify. Yes the puffs are fake from my interpretation of
> the painting. I was trying through a fogged brain (still a bit fogged) to
> say the "epaulette"(?) or the sleeve section with the poofs coming out is
> attached to the gown bodice and the embroidered sleeves which I believe 
> are
> detachable are tied onto either the corset or the arms eye of the gown's
> bodice.
> Does this make any sense?
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Oh, how interesting! I always figured the puffs were faked, since they 
> show
> no signs of embroidery....
> --Sue
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> In my interpretation of the portrait, I believe that the puffed sections
> are
>> attached to the bodice and the rose embroidered sleeves are detachable.
> But
>> others have interpreted the what I believe is a partlet and sleeves to be
> a
>> shirt.
> <snipped>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 07:14:54 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Fabric for sale
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Greetings,

I have a bunch of fabric for sale and I know not everyone on this 
list is on the Yahoogroups Swap & Sell or Costume Trader lists so I 
had my husband put them up on the web for me, more will be going up 
soon, including a couple of bonnets - one I made and the other a new 
"Hatcrafters" one that never got worn.  If you're at all interested 
in any of it, please contact me at dannw at mn.rr.com  Sorry for this 
rather commercial message...

http://www.cyberiosity.com/FabricSale/Default.html

Cheers,
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPEEKKFNAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 15:11:57 +0100
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Thanks Deredere,
Now i know, we call it Akkeleje in danish.
Thanks

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 12:48 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses


> http://www.flowerpictures.net/perennials/columbine.htm
> I think the Dutch call it Agley or Akelei.
> A few other names, origins unknown: Culverwort, Jovisblume, Alderblume,
> Glockenblume.
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Oh that sounds absolutely lovely. I tried to look up Colombines in my
> dictionary, but could not find it. Which flowers are they?
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 15:19:17 +0100
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Dear Becky.
Stomachers could be attached on top of the stays with the small tabs in the 
sides, or it could be directly pinned into the bodice sides of the dress. 
Pins was used to do this.
Most ladies i know hate to pin with dressing pins, afraid it will heart 
somebody or themselves.
However i dont think bad things could happend.
This is what they did back then.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress


> How is the stomacher attached? It has tabs, but in the picture you linked 
> to I don't see how it attached. The description said it was removable like 
> a jewel. It covered the corset lacings. How was it held in place?
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 11:35 PM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress
>
>
>> Okay perhaps I used the wrong label at least the online dictionarys seem 
>> to
>> say so. It is usually defined as an ornamental, detachable front of a
>> woman's bodice similar to a stomacher?
>> This is a stomacher to give a rough idea.
>> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_230.htm
>> De
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> What's a "plastron"? I looked up and the range was all over the place. I
>> found one necklace of the Romanovs that was gorgeous but I don't know if
>> that is what the term applies to or not.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
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Oooooh, we wants it, precioussssss......yes, we do.....
--Sue, apparently channeling Gollum this morning


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 9:29 PM
Subject: [h-cost] colonial


> Ooo...look what I found.
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
> De
> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Feb 15 10:29:11 2006
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPOEKDFNAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 08:35:10 -0700
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Yes.  Thanks for the clarification.
I think that if the sleeves aren't part of a shirt, they'd either tie onto
the armscye of the partlet, or *perhaps* the gown.  Corset hadn't occured to
me though...what led you to think of that?
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 9:59 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor roses


> Oops, I need to clarify. Yes the puffs are fake from my interpretation of
> the painting. I was trying through a fogged brain (still a bit fogged) to
> say the "epaulette"(?) or the sleeve section with the poofs coming out is
> attached to the gown bodice and the embroidered sleeves which I believe
are
> detachable are tied onto either the corset or the arms eye of the gown's
> bodice.
> Does this make any sense?
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Oh, how interesting! I always figured the puffs were faked, since they
show
> no signs of embroidery....
> --Sue
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > In my interpretation of the portrait, I believe that the puffed sections
> are
> > attached to the bodice and the rose embroidered sleeves are detachable.
> But
> > others have interpreted the what I believe is a partlet and sleeves to
be
> a
> > shirt.


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To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting Historians?
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> >   Recently there was a discussion about the history of knitting.  
> I didn't really pay to much attention to it since I do not knit.  
> But a friend of mine is a knitter and wants to talk to anyone who 
> does know the history of knitting.
> >    If you can help, would you please contact me privately so I can 
> get my friend in contact with you.
> >
> >Roscelin

Contact Mistress Nan Compton, who started the An Tir Spinners and
Knitters Guild. She will be able to give your friend tons of help, and
can be reach at <e.mullaney@ucalgary.com>

Arlys
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
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Status: RO

Hmm.... so you think they had a corset with tabs to which the bumroll was attached and over it the dress? So the dress itself should be of two parts - the skirt and the bodice. One thing that remains a mystery to me is this perfect fit of the bodices - I'd say they were at least stiffened with something. AlbertCat@aol.com says they were boned. 
  This thing with attaching the bumroll to the tabs of the corset is quite interesting - I've never heard about it before. You know it from the Evolution of Fashion? It's a real pity I haven't got that book. But it's a good tip for buying, thanks:-)) Just one thing - how far on the tabs would the bumroll be, I mean, just at the waist or an inch or two lower? Just to know how to make the waistline of that bumroll. 
   
  Zuzana
   
   
  Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
    I think they wore a bodice under the dress wich had a peplum or large tabs. 
And i would guess there was lacing holes on top of the tabs, to hold up a 
small bumroll.
Corsets must have ben worn to give this push up breasts, and smooth bodice. 
How they looked like, i really would have loved to see.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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Status: RO

At 06:14 PM 2/14/2006, you wrote:
> > Is there a way to make a smock that can create the illusion of being
> > different parts and still be accuate?
>
>Well the intent of the sleeves is to not look different to the partlet, if
>they are indeed seperate items;)
>
>I personally feel she is wearing a garment similar to the smock in the V&A
>that is heavily embroidered and would surely not have been worn next to the
>skin:
>http://costume.dm.net/va/smocks.html
>There is a typo, the chemise is all linen, but of two grades. It is not a
>silk upper half.
>
>
>In regards to seperate items, I am not discounting that they exist.
>
>Does anyone remember what book has a picture of some blackworked sleeves in
>it? I know there is also a picture of uncut blackworked sleeves somewhere
>else as well.
>
>They show that there were indeed seperate items, even aside from what is in
>written inventories (which can be hard to understand given the change of
>language over time.)
>
>michaela
>http://glittersweet.com
>

I think that the book you are referring to is QEWU.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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Thanks, De! I didn't know how to describe them for Bjarne.
I like columbines, and specifically chose them for my SCA heraldry because
the plant is found in both my part of the U.S. and in Europe.  They come in
all kinds of riotous color combinations, too.
--Sue, starting to long for Spring so she can work in her garden....

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 4:48 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses


> http://www.flowerpictures.net/perennials/columbine.htm
> I think the Dutch call it Agley or Akelei.
> A few other names, origins unknown: Culverwort, Jovisblume, Alderblume,
> Glockenblume.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Oh that sounds absolutely lovely. I tried to look up Colombines in my
> dictionary, but could not find it. Which flowers are they?
>
> Bjarne
>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re: [h-cost]
	italian childs renaissance dress
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At 02:48 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
>Thats interresting. Its funny they want to keep the edwardian shape 
>even for renaissance.
>
>Bjarne
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 4:36 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress
>
>
>>At 09:42 AM 2/14/2006, you wrote:
>>>Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
>>>http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.x=3&submit.y=10&coll_start=81
>>>
>>>Bjarne
>>
>>
>>Thank you Bjarne,
>>
>>I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this 
>>interesting gown, from the House of Worth.
>>http://tinyurl.com/92mz4
>>
>>I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for 
>>the well to do. I could almost see this gown on a "friend of faire" 
>>person, someone who likes to dress up with something that looks 
>>kinda right, but isn't.
>>
>>And in purple velvet, it's rather fetching.
>>
>>Kimiko

I have a fashion print showing "historical" outfits for a fancy dress 
(costume) ball in the 1880s.  It's hilarious from a costumer's 
viewpoint.  Imagine Mary Queen of Scots with an 1880s shape. :-D  Very funny.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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At 04:36 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
>How is the stomacher attached? It has tabs, but in the picture you 
>linked to I don't see how it attached. The description said it was 
>removable like a jewel. It covered the corset lacings. How was it 
>held in place?

Most of those would be pinned in place.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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> Oooo wedding dress!!!!!:) What color?
> De

Well, that has been the hardest part.  I want to do a white-ish color
white, cream, chanpagne, etc.) but my accent color is a deep purple-blue. 
I originally intended to make it white with the blue accents but the
contrast is so big!  I am still trying to figure out how to do it.

I am very inspired by this painting:

http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?32697+0+0

But I also like the split-skirt style like the garment just posted. 
Sigh....so many ideas and I only get to choose one!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Subject: Pattern suggestions, was Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses
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At 04:57 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
>Yes. I've read just about every document on how to make these period 
>costumes. I searched online for images and dairies for help. I found 
>the diaries very helpful. I borrowed a copy of Queen Elizabeth's 
>Wardrobe Unlocked from a library. It had lots of details but not 
>what I wanted... suggested patterns. Quite a heavy book!
>I've seen the eyelet and ribbon attachments on several examples. I 
>saved where they were and images to a disk so I have a collection of 
>parts to use for my costume. I have patterns to use for parts and I 
>guess it'll be a pick-and-choose to get it all like I want.

Have you checked out Margo Anderson's Historic Patterns?  She has 
complete packages with sizes from 2 to 30.  I have the original set 
of Ladies' Underpinnings, Ladies' Gown, and Accessories. Her web site 
is http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm .


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 08:04:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Holy Crapola, that dress is beautiful, but really badly mounted.  So I
> wouldn't trust all of their information, especially about the gown meeting
> edge to edge at the centrefront.  I wish they had taken the time to mount
> the dress proprely, then you would be able to see all it's glory in the
> photos...they are great photos, I'm bummed ;-(

Sorry, I hit send accidently!


If you think that one is mounted badly, check this one out:

http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_431.htm

I LOVE this jacket, but it looks so awful there!

> If you are interested in more information about dresses from this time
> period, check out Janet Arnold's book on this period,

I have the book but I don't remember many construction pictures in it. 
And I work much better from pictures than somebody's description.  I will
take a look at it again now that I know more about the period.

>also Louisbourg
> National Historic Site, published booklets on clothing from this time
> period
> a few years back, they are complete with patterns and tailoring details.
> Their website is http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/ , you may be able to contact
> them for a copy.

Thanks, I will check it out.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 07:56:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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Status: RO


> Holy Crapola, that dress is beautiful, but really badly mounted.  So I
> wouldn't trust all of their information, especially about the gown meeting
> edge to edge at the centrefront.  I wish they had taken the time to mount
> the dress proprely, then you would be able to see all it's glory in the
> photos...they are great photos, I'm bummed ;-(
>
> If you are interested in more information about dresses from this time
> period, check out Janet Arnold's book on this period, also Louisbourg
> National Historic Site, published booklets on clothing from this time
> period
> a few years back, they are complete with patterns and tailoring details.
> Their website is http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/ , you may be able to contact
> them for a copy.
>
> For those who are interested in this era, come join me and a few hundred
> others at Louisbourg's Grande Encampment this year!
>
> Kelly/estela
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 2:11 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
>
>
>>
>>> Ooo...look what I found.
>>> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
>>> De
>>
>> I LOVE this website!  I know that they show the details to help sell the
>> clothing but it is AWESOME for us historical costumers that may not ever
>> get to study garments like these in person.
>>
>> Thanks so much for sharing!  I am trying to design my wedding gown which
>> will roughly be from this period and I am trying to find out all I can
>> about construction techniques.  This new colonial dress will be a big
>> help.
>>
>> Diana
>>
>> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>> "Everything for the Costumer"
>>
>> "Become the change you want to see in the world."
>> --Ghandi
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 16:01:45 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re: [h-cost]
	italian childs renaissance dress
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Status: RO

At 15:47 15/02/2006, you wrote:
>At 02:48 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
>>Thats interresting. Its funny they want to keep the edwardian shape 
>>even for renaissance.
>>
>>
>>>At 09:42 AM 2/14/2006, you wrote:
>>>>Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
>>>>http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.x=3&submit.y=10&coll_start=81
>>>>
>>>>Bjarne
>>>
>>>
>>>Thank you Bjarne,
>>>
>>>I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this 
>>>interesting gown, from the House of Worth.
>>>http://tinyurl.com/92mz4
>>>
>>>I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for 
>>>the well to do. I could almost see this gown on a "friend of 
>>>faire" person, someone who likes to dress up with something that 
>>>looks kinda right, but isn't.
>>>
>>>And in purple velvet, it's rather fetching.
>>>
>>>Kimiko
>
>I have a fashion print showing "historical" outfits for a fancy 
>dress (costume) ball in the 1880s.  It's hilarious from a costumer's 
>viewpoint.  Imagine Mary Queen of Scots with an 1880s shape. :-D  Very funny.
>
>
>Joan Jurancich
>joanmj@surewest.net


There is a lovely book, probably out of print now, called "Van Dyck 
in Check Trousers" which is about exactly this subject. Has some 
great "historical" examples, mainly in paintings, but also some photos.

Suzi


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Yep, interlibrary loan found it for me. I couldn't afford to buy it myself. 
It's a nice book but not what I expected. I read fantastic stories of the 
designs and details that no other book had. A great source for Tudor, but 
not helpful about MAKING the costume I want.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses


> At 06:14 PM 2/14/2006, you wrote:
>> > Is there a way to make a smock that can create the illusion of being
>> > different parts and still be accuate?
>>
>>Well the intent of the sleeves is to not look different to the partlet, if
>>they are indeed seperate items;)
>>
>>I personally feel she is wearing a garment similar to the smock in the V&A
>>that is heavily embroidered and would surely not have been worn next to 
>>the
>>skin:
>>http://costume.dm.net/va/smocks.html
>>There is a typo, the chemise is all linen, but of two grades. It is not a
>>silk upper half.
>>
>>
>>In regards to seperate items, I am not discounting that they exist.
>>
>>Does anyone remember what book has a picture of some blackworked sleeves 
>>in
>>it? I know there is also a picture of uncut blackworked sleeves somewhere
>>else as well.
>>
>>They show that there were indeed seperate items, even aside from what is 
>>in
>>written inventories (which can be hard to understand given the change of
>>language over time.)
>>
>>michaela
>>http://glittersweet.com
>>
>
> I think that the book you are referring to is QEWU.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: Pattern suggestions, was Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses
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I've seen that before and wanted it. I decided to buy the set. My husband 
forgot Valentine's Day so this is my gift to myself. Paypal is great 
sometimes. Paid and on it's way to my house.
I hope the package includes all the sizes. Anyone have this? Any 
suggestions?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: Pattern suggestions, was Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses


> At 04:57 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
>>Yes. I've read just about every document on how to make these period 
>>costumes. I searched online for images and dairies for help. I found the 
>>diaries very helpful. I borrowed a copy of Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe 
>>Unlocked from a library. It had lots of details but not what I wanted... 
>>suggested patterns. Quite a heavy book!
>>I've seen the eyelet and ribbon attachments on several examples. I saved 
>>where they were and images to a disk so I have a collection of parts to 
>>use for my costume. I have patterns to use for parts and I guess it'll be 
>>a pick-and-choose to get it all like I want.
>
> Have you checked out Margo Anderson's Historic Patterns?  She has complete 
> packages with sizes from 2 to 30.  I have the original set of Ladies' 
> Underpinnings, Ladies' Gown, and Accessories. Her web site is 
> http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm .
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>:

> Thanks Deredere,
> Now i know, we call it Akkeleje in danish.


Cool.  The genus name is Aquilegia.  It's in the buttercup family.
I've toyed with trying to transform one of the english columbines
Elizabethan patterns into the American columbine.  Ours is not as "fat"
and the spurs are *much* longer.

http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Wildflower/Images/columbine.jpg

Susan, the (spring) wildflower junkie
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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rotflmao - almost sprayed my computer with my morning coffee!
  

h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
  Message: 2
Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 19:43:47 EST
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"


In a message dated 2/14/2006 5:34:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

Those 
French....they may not be accurate, but they are beautifully executed!



****************


Hey....I made a French Revolution joke!!!! :-P

		
---------------------------------
 
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At 04:36 PM 2/14/2006, you wrote:
>Not sure why the 'gown shorter than the kirtle' idea? Can you explain?
>
>As for the length of dresses seeming long, we in the modern era walk 
>differently than ladies of the historical era would have. If, when you are 
>walking, you let your toes drop to a relax point when stepping forward, it 
>is difficult to step on your hem, as you push it away with the toe of your 
>foot.  There is also a little half kick/ swirl movement to move your back 
>hem (which is sometimes trained) out of the way when you turn around. The 
>only time I ever lift my skirt hem is when I'm climbing stairs.
>
>Kelly/estela


Hi Kelly/estela

Thank you for your reply, and clarifications on how to walk in a long gown.

I was simply noting what I saw, and what Dr Jane Malcolm-Davies has written 
on that page, as follows on the last image:

"Edith Pexall née Brocas (c1535) - Hem
The top layer (the gown) is shorter than the under layer (the kirtle). This 
was described as characteristic of Englishwomen's dress by the Venetian 
ambassador in 1554 (quoted in Carter, A [1984] “Mary Tudor’s Wardrobe” in 
Costume, 18, 20)."

This image is direct, and shows what I mean.
http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/assets/main/95_137_main.jpg

I had always presumed that the outer gown was longer or the same length 
than the kirtle worn underneath, yet that seems to not be the case in this 
effigy, and apparently, in English gowns of the time. The kirtles shown in 
the effigy are very long, over the feet long, as in they would be a few 
inches lower than the ground long when you are standing. I don't follow how 
the skirts would be constantly pooling around your feet when you are 
standing and walking, and not trip a lot.

Kimiko


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: women costumes from "The three musketeers"
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> This thing with attaching the bumroll to the tabs of the corset is quite interesting -> I've never heard about it before.  Zuzana

    I dont think the bumme needs to be attached.  It's supported with
those things called hips.  Since the narrower part that ties goes
under the corset CF it's wont twist on the body.

 Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>Corsets must have ben worn to give this push up breasts, and smooth bodice.
>How they looked like, i really would have loved to see.

   Exactly.  That straight-laced smooth body is sooooo much easier to
fit with a smooth bodice than lumpy loose modern women.  No, the
bodice is not "padded", the interior structure is interfacing.  Basic
Butterick & Simplicity sewing skills cannot reproduce the effect.  Get
one of the Couture "how-to" books like Palmer-Pletch or Shaeffer. 
Once you learn how modern couture construction technically works, you
will understand Janet Arnold, Blanche Payne, Norah Waugh and others'
notes and pictures better.
I'm hoping to get my copy of The Tudor Tailor soon.  When I started
costuming there just werent any books around on early construction and
tailoring, only on cutting diagrams.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor roses
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Becky -- 
 
I don't know where to get child-sized patterns; you may have to draft them yourself (it's not hard, really, with little kids); but here are two sites which may help you -- 
 
http://photos.ladybrooke.com/sca/gowns/velvetgown/gettingstarted.htm  This is a dress diary that discusses where and how to get the patterns for a Tudor gown like the one you've chosen for your daughter.
 
http://www.reddawn.net/costume/costpat.htm And here's a site that reviews commercial costume patterns for their historicity.
 
Hope this helps!
 
Tea Rose
 
===================================================
 

Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 07:57:44 -0500
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses

It had lots of details but not what I wanted... 
suggested patterns.  I have patterns to use for parts and I guess it'll be a 
pick-and-choose to get it all like I want.
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>Subject:

>>I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this
>>interesting gown, from the House of Worth.
>>http://tinyurl.com/92mz4

>I have a fashion print showing "historical" outfits for a fancy dress
>(costume) ball in the 1880s.  It's hilarious from a costumer's
>viewpoint.  Imagine Mary Queen of Scots with an 1880s shape. :-D  Very funny.

I have several fancy dress fashion plates, too. My personal favorite
is the "kimono" set of curraise gowns entitled "Receiving in the
Japanese Room" (peterson's 1879).  The dolmans are a marvelous combo
of geisha & victorian.  It's so well loved it's on my wall in the
dining room.

At the Pitti Palace in Florence, there was a small collection on
display of 19th repros of earlier styles.  I loved the 1840s(?)
version of 15th c Florentine.  It's in the Galleria di Costume
catalogs.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Found this embroidery pattern while looking for something else. They call it "English Rose" but it looks like the right thing to me. Hope it helps.
   
  http://www.dragonbear.com/cenrose.html
   
  Annette M

		
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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 10:08:12 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
In-Reply-To: <1180.67.188.164.116.1140019448.squirrel@webmail.inreach.co
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At 08:04 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
>[anip]
> > If you are interested in more information about dresses from this time
> > period, check out Janet Arnold's book on this period,
>
>I have the book but I don't remember many construction pictures in it.
>And I work much better from pictures than somebody's description.  I will
>take a look at it again now that I know more about the period.
>
> >also Louisbourg
> > National Historic Site, published booklets on clothing from this time
> > period
> > a few years back, they are complete with patterns and tailoring details.
> > Their website is http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/ , you may be able to contact
> > them for a copy.
>
>Thanks, I will check it out.
>
>Diana

Check out "The Cut of Women's Clothing".  I can't lay my hands on my 
copy at the moment :-(, but there are many cutting diagrams in the back.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
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Yowza thats lovely!

Hmmm, it seems that the measurements that they give are exactly my measurements in a corset....

Now for that winning lottery ticket. :0)

Sheridan

> 
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> Date: 2006/02/14 Tue PM 11:29:31 EST
> To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] colonial
> 
> Ooo...look what I found.
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
> De
> 
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Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re: [h-cost]italian childs renaissance dress
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 13:14:37 -0500
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I have in my collection just such a gown of the '70s that got reshaped and
trotted out as QE1!  It is indeed a hoot.
  My very favorite of these can be seen at The Museum of the City of NY:  A
purple velvet number of the late '70/ early '80s and worn by Mrs. Astor.
She went to the party as "a Light Bulb"!!  Her Diamond headdress provided
the twinkling lights.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 10:47 AM
Subject: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re: [h-cost]italian
childs renaissance dress


> At 02:48 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
> >Thats interresting. Its funny they want to keep the edwardian shape
> >even for renaissance.
> >
> >Bjarne
> >
> >----- Original Message ----- From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
> >To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 4:36 AM
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress
> >
> >
> >>At 09:42 AM 2/14/2006, you wrote:
> >>>Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
>
>>>http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.
x=3&submit.y=10&coll_start=81
> >>>
> >>>Bjarne
> >>
> >>
> >>Thank you Bjarne,
> >>
> >>I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this
> >>interesting gown, from the House of Worth.
> >>http://tinyurl.com/92mz4
> >>
> >>I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for
> >>the well to do. I could almost see this gown on a "friend of faire"
> >>person, someone who likes to dress up with something that looks
> >>kinda right, but isn't.
> >>
> >>And in purple velvet, it's rather fetching.
> >>
> >>Kimiko
>
> I have a fashion print showing "historical" outfits for a fancy dress
> (costume) ball in the 1880s.  It's hilarious from a costumer's
> viewpoint.  Imagine Mary Queen of Scots with an 1880s shape. :-D  Very
funny.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: Pattern suggestions, was Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses
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Status: RO

Each pattern has all the sizes.  And they come with an instruction 
"book" that you can put into a three-ring binder.  They are well 
worth the cost.

Joan

At 08:20 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
>I've seen that before and wanted it. I decided to buy the set. My 
>husband forgot Valentine's Day so this is my gift to myself. Paypal 
>is great sometimes. Paid and on it's way to my house.
>I hope the package includes all the sizes. Anyone have this? Any suggestions?
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 10:55 AM
>Subject: Pattern suggestions, was Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses
>
>
>>At 04:57 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
>>>Yes. I've read just about every document on how to make these 
>>>period costumes. I searched online for images and dairies for 
>>>help. I found the diaries very helpful. I borrowed a copy of Queen 
>>>Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked from a library. It had lots of 
>>>details but not what I wanted... suggested patterns. Quite a heavy book!
>>>I've seen the eyelet and ribbon attachments on several examples. I 
>>>saved where they were and images to a disk so I have a collection 
>>>of parts to use for my costume. I have patterns to use for parts 
>>>and I guess it'll be a pick-and-choose to get it all like I want.
>>
>>Have you checked out Margo Anderson's Historic Patterns?  She has 
>>complete packages with sizes from 2 to 30.  I have the original set 
>>of Ladies' Underpinnings, Ladies' Gown, and Accessories. Her web 
>>site is http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm .
>>
>>Joan Jurancich
>>joanmj@surewest.net

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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 18:27:19 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:
	[h-cost]italian childs renaissance dress
In-Reply-To: <004701c6325b$b0be1da0$935083d1@rmitchellras>
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Status: RO

At 18:14 15/02/2006, you wrote:
>I have in my collection just such a gown of the '70s that got reshaped and
>trotted out as QE1!  It is indeed a hoot.
>   My very favorite of these can be seen at The Museum of the City of NY:  A
>purple velvet number of the late '70/ early '80s and worn by Mrs. Astor.
>She went to the party as "a Light Bulb"!!  Her Diamond headdress provided
>the twinkling lights.


I have a recent purchase of a fashion plate from the 1890's of a 
"Bookworm" - it was in German, so it took me a while to fathom out!

Suzi



> > >>>Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
> >
> >>>http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.
>x=3&submit.y=10&coll_start=81
> > >>>
>
> > >>I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this
> > >>interesting gown, from the House of Worth.
> > >>http://tinyurl.com/92mz4
> > >>
> > >>I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for
> > >>the well to do. I could almost see this gown on a "friend of faire"
> > >>person, someone who likes to dress up with something that looks
> > >>kinda right, but isn't.
> > >>
> > >>And in purple velvet, it's rather fetching.
> > >>
> > >>Kimiko
> >
> > I have a fashion print showing "historical" outfits for a fancy dress
> > (costume) ball in the 1880s.  It's hilarious from a costumer's
> > viewpoint.  Imagine Mary Queen of Scots with an 1880s shape. :-D  Very
>funny.
> >
> >
> > Joan Jurancich
> > joanmj@surewest.net


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Feb 15 13:35:06 2006
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 13:32:45 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: OT: work at home 'rituals'
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Status: RO

Hi, Katherine,

	This is a very familiar and old experience for me, as I've been
working at home since 1980 when my children were pre-school (and are now in
their mid to late 20s and forging successful careers of their own.) I've
juggled a career as a writer, journalist, artist and more recently (since
2000) added to that vendor of historical sewing patterns.

	I learned very quickly that it is important to treat your cocooning
career just as you would a commuter career, even if that commute was only 10
minutes. So, I established a work routine. I have to be dressed and ready
for work by 9:00 a.m., latest 10:00 a.m. I have to work until noon. I break
at noon and take a nice leisurely lunch, maybe an hour, maybe an hour and a
half. I nosh, perhaps take care of some domestic items (cleaning, cooking,
baking, gardening, laundry and when the children were little quality time
with them, and since being here walking into the village to fetch mail.) I
then work for another two hours, take a break, about half an hour, and then
knock off around 4:00 or 5:00 p.m.

	Malleable rule is I'm not allowed to work after hours or weekends. I
say the rule is malleable, because I am flexible if there's an important
order, or a deadline that's getting crunchy.

	By keeping these rules I've managed to look at what I do as a 'job',
that requires discipline, dedication and results. I do not turn on the TV
except at lunch to catch the news, and I only allow about 15 to 20 minutes
of that. In the good weather I take my lunches out of doors so I can
recharge by watching the birds and communing with my garden. 

	These things won't work for everyone. But they work for me.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Feb 15 14:22:17 2006
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Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re:[h-cost]italian childs renaissance dress
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 14:22:43 -0500
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Status: RO

Your day sounds much like mine.  The most difficult problem for me has been
getting customers to keep to business hours when it comes to the telephone!
"No, I am not happy to take your call between the hours of 6PM and Am!!
Call me when the shop is open." ( And don't show up on a Sunday afternoon
and expect that the shop is..or can be open!!)  We solved that one by taking
off for the day sometime after 9AM and get home maybe after dark.

I will take appointments between 9Am and noon on Saturday...if I have to.
Funny thing, came the day when I realized that none of the costume shops or
suppliers worked aft Noon on Saturday and so I liberated myself.

The other problem work related is how easy (or hard not to) let the shop
inventory travel into the living quarters..

kathleen


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:[h-cost]italian
childs renaissance dress


> At 18:14 15/02/2006, you wrote:
> >I have in my collection just such a gown of the '70s that got reshaped
and
> >trotted out as QE1!  It is indeed a hoot.
> >   My very favorite of these can be seen at The Museum of the City of NY:
A
> >purple velvet number of the late '70/ early '80s and worn by Mrs. Astor.
> >She went to the party as "a Light Bulb"!!  Her Diamond headdress provided
> >the twinkling lights.
>
>
> I have a recent purchase of a fashion plate from the 1890's of a
> "Bookworm" - it was in German, so it took me a while to fathom out!
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
> > > >>>Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
> > >
> >
>>>http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.
> >x=3&submit.y=10&coll_start=81
> > > >>>
> >
> > > >>I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this
> > > >>interesting gown, from the House of Worth.
> > > >>http://tinyurl.com/92mz4
> > > >>
> > > >>I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for
> > > >>the well to do. I could almost see this gown on a "friend of faire"
> > > >>person, someone who likes to dress up with something that looks
> > > >>kinda right, but isn't.
> > > >>
> > > >>And in purple velvet, it's rather fetching.
> > > >>
> > > >>Kimiko
> > >
> > > I have a fashion print showing "historical" outfits for a fancy dress
> > > (costume) ball in the 1880s.  It's hilarious from a costumer's
> > > viewpoint.  Imagine Mary Queen of Scots with an 1880s shape. :-D  Very
> >funny.
> > >
> > >
> > > Joan Jurancich
> > > joanmj@surewest.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 13:30:29 -0600
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Subject: [h-cost] article on lace making
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Did anyone else see yesterday's Wall Street Journal? On the front page was
an article on Indian women making hand-made lace and the difficulties of
keeping the art going, finding places to sell it, etc. I found it
fascinating, and thought others here would as well. I don't know if you can
access the article on-line without a subscription,  but just about every
local library I've ever had access to got the WSJ. I think it would be worth
looking up.
 

*******************************************************************

Rebecca Schmitt

aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence

Bristol Renaissance Faire

 

My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash

*******************************************************************

 
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Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re:[h-cost]italian childs renaissance dress
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 14:23:58 -0500
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Well, my intention was to tag Lorena's work rituals.
Sorry...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:[h-cost]italian
childs renaissance dress


> At 18:14 15/02/2006, you wrote:
> >I have in my collection just such a gown of the '70s that got reshaped
and
> >trotted out as QE1!  It is indeed a hoot.
> >   My very favorite of these can be seen at The Museum of the City of NY:
A
> >purple velvet number of the late '70/ early '80s and worn by Mrs. Astor.
> >She went to the party as "a Light Bulb"!!  Her Diamond headdress provided
> >the twinkling lights.
>
>
> I have a recent purchase of a fashion plate from the 1890's of a
> "Bookworm" - it was in German, so it took me a while to fathom out!
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
> > > >>>Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
> > >
> >
>>>http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.
> >x=3&submit.y=10&coll_start=81
> > > >>>
> >
> > > >>I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this
> > > >>interesting gown, from the House of Worth.
> > > >>http://tinyurl.com/92mz4
> > > >>
> > > >>I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for
> > > >>the well to do. I could almost see this gown on a "friend of faire"
> > > >>person, someone who likes to dress up with something that looks
> > > >>kinda right, but isn't.
> > > >>
> > > >>And in purple velvet, it's rather fetching.
> > > >>
> > > >>Kimiko
> > >
> > > I have a fashion print showing "historical" outfits for a fancy dress
> > > (costume) ball in the 1880s.  It's hilarious from a costumer's
> > > viewpoint.  Imagine Mary Queen of Scots with an 1880s shape. :-D  Very
> >funny.
> > >
> > >
> > > Joan Jurancich
> > > joanmj@surewest.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <20060215152105.51681.qmail@web37515.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 20:38:51 +0100
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Hi,
No i dont think i explained very well what i ment.
I believe they wore a corset, and on top of this corset they had a fitted 
bodice wich had either large tabs or a shaped peplum. It would be closed 
center front. On top of these tabs lacing holes in the sides and at the back 
to attach a small bumroll. It shoould hang about an inch below the high 
waistline. On top of this, the underskirt or petticoat. Then the dress wich 
is attached bodice and skirt is hanged over the shoulders, and closed center 
front with a stomacher.
Evolution says its the bodice with the tabs wich is the actually corset, but 
i dont believe they wore such short stays. I think they used the evolution 
shapes of the old renaissance stays. We dont know this, as no stays excist 
from this period. Their posture kind of tells me that they did wear corsets, 
also the way the breasts are lifted up.
The standing collar for this dress in the book, 1625 is made of a rectangle 
piece of linen wich is pleated into its round shape. The yoke wich is 
pleated also is then attached to the standing collar and pins in the center 
front bustline. Because it is bended (yoke) towards the bust, it rises the 
standing collar very beautifully behind.
Cuffs are made the same way rectangle, pleated in shape. And off cause edged 
with a scalloped lace like  the standing band.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"


> Hmm.... so you think they had a corset with tabs to which the bumroll was 
> attached and over it the dress? So the dress itself should be of two 
> parts - the skirt and the bodice. One thing that remains a mystery to me 
> is this perfect fit of the bodices - I'd say they were at least stiffened 
> with something. AlbertCat@aol.com says they were boned.
>  This thing with attaching the bumroll to the tabs of the corset is quite 
> interesting - I've never heard about it before. You know it from the 
> Evolution of Fashion? It's a real pity I haven't got that book. But it's a 
> good tip for buying, thanks:-)) Just one thing - how far on the tabs would 
> the bumroll be, I mean, just at the waist or an inch or two lower? Just to 
> know how to make the waistline of that bumroll.
>
>  Zuzana
>
>
>  Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>    I think they wore a bodice under the dress wich had a peplum or large 
> tabs.
> And i would guess there was lacing holes on top of the tabs, to hold up a
> small bumroll.
> Corsets must have ben worn to give this push up breasts, and smooth 
> bodice.
> How they looked like, i really would have loved to see.
>
> __________________________________________________
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  ------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 10:08:12 -0800
From: Joan Jurancich 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20060215100632.0239be70@surewest.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 08:04 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
>[anip]
> > If you are interested in more information about dresses from this time
> > period, check out Janet Arnold's book on this period,
>
>I have the book but I don't remember many construction pictures in it.
>And I work much better from pictures than somebody's description. I will
>take a look at it again now that I know more about the period.
>
> >also Louisbourg
> > National Historic Site, published booklets on clothing from this time
> > period
> > a few years back, they are complete with patterns and tailoring details.
> > Their website is http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/ , you may be able to contact
> > them for a copy.
>
>Thanks, I will check it out.
>
>Diana

Check out "The Cut of Women's Clothing". I can't lay my hands on my 
copy at the moment :-(, but there are many cutting diagrams in the back.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

 Also check out Fitting and Proper, this has two types of 18c gowns and diagrams for each. (a sack back-in silk and a round gown in a block printed cotton, but I may be dis--remembering the correct terms and types),   These are taken from a PA area hsitorical society Chester County I believe.  Correct me ladies who know.  
  It seems to me that the basic shapes are the same for the different types, so the diagrams in Fitting and Proper pretty much equal Costume closeup = Cut of Womens clothing = Janet Arnold.  I know this is over simplifing. 
  I've gone/am going through this process to try to put together some garments.  Williamsburg's Costume close up was my first source with additions from the other books...each has its strength and weaknesses...
   
  18c Mia in Charlotte, NC, where i saw a daffodil today!!

		
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1252.67.188.164.116.1139983878.squirrel@webmail.inreach.com><IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPMEKIFNAA.otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 21:06:07 +0100
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Hi,
This has ben my dream to make for many many years, it is so lovely.
By the way, this portrait is one of the reasons that i keep on saying that 
cartridge pleating was used in 18th century, even though the 18th century 
womens list has disagreed.
They claim it never was used, but how would you pleat this skirt otherwise?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 4:55 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] colonial


>
>> Oooo wedding dress!!!!!:) What color?
>> De
>
> Well, that has been the hardest part.  I want to do a white-ish color
> white, cream, chanpagne, etc.) but my accent color is a deep purple-blue.
> I originally intended to make it white with the blue accents but the
> contrast is so big!  I am still trying to figure out how to do it.
>
> I am very inspired by this painting:
>
> http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?32697+0+0
>
> But I also like the split-skirt style like the garment just posted.
> Sigh....so many ideas and I only get to choose one!
>
> Diana
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> "Become the change you want to see in the world."
> --Ghandi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 14:25:52 -0600
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This is the week for not finding things. I know I have seen a 1500s
blackwork pattern of columbines. AAAHHH!
Have you considered a full front view of the flower connected by lattice
vines?
De

-----Original Message-----
Cool.  The genus name is Aquilegia.  It's in the buttercup family.
I've toyed with trying to transform one of the english columbines
Elizabethan patterns into the American columbine.  Ours is not as "fat"
and the spurs are *much* longer.

http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Wildflower/Images/columbine.jpg

Susan, the (spring) wildflower junkie


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Your welcome. And thank you for the Danish name. :) 

De
small note: "De" is for D'Lisa.

-----Original Message-----
Thanks Deredere,
Now i know, we call it Akkeleje in danish.
Thanks

Bjarne


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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I was looking up the artist and found this lovely picture.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Fran%C3%A7ois_Boucher_019.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Fran%C3%A7ois_Boucher_018.jpg
If I was interested in the period and had the figure I would love a dress
like this.
Madame Pompadour has some nice dresses
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Fran%C3%A7ois_Boucher_017.jpg
De

-----Original Message-----
> I am very inspired by this painting:
>
> http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?32697+0+0
>
> But I also like the split-skirt style like the garment just posted.
> Sigh....so many ideas and I only get to choose one!
>
> Diana
>


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This shows some other portraits of similar fullness of skirt. Click on the
picture for bigger picture and info in Spanish. Then click on that picture
with enlargement features (note: 200% is fuzzy)
http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11680&Empnum=0&Inicio=46
I'm not sure, cartridge pleating looks possible. Some techniques usually
don't disappear so easily.

De
-----Original Message-----
Hi,
This has ben my dream to make for many many years, it is so lovely.
By the way, this portrait is one of the reasons that i keep on saying that
cartridge pleating was used in 18th century, even though the 18th century
womens list has disagreed.
They claim it never was used, but how would you pleat this skirt otherwise?

Bjarne



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 22:13:43 +0100
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Hi,
I think some of you might have misunderstanded my explanations to this.
I was not reffering to the movie picture costumes, but the cavallier style 
fashion for women. With the high waists.
The reason why i want the bumroll to be laced to a bodice is that the dress 
waistline is so high over the natural waistline, that it simply couldnt be 
tied arround so high, without slipping down emediately.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress
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Kimiko Small wrote:

>>
> http://tinyurl.com/92mz4
> 
> I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for the 
> well to do. I could almost see this gown on a "friend of faire" person, 
> someone who likes to dress up with something that looks kinda right, but 
> isn't.
> 

There was a resurgence of interest in the renaissance period around then 
(1877) and quite a bit of clothing and household goods got made in 
imitation of it. Some of it is quite nice.



Dawn



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 9:55 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] colonial


> This shows some other portraits of similar fullness of skirt. Click on the
> picture for bigger picture and info in Spanish. Then click on that picture
> with enlargement features (note: 200% is fuzzy)
> http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11680&Empnum=0&Inicio=46
> I'm not sure, cartridge pleating looks possible. Some techniques usually
> don't disappear so easily.


You also clearly sees her wooden busk trough the bodice, this i never 
noticed before.
This must be a heavy duchesse satin, and imagine to pleat so much width into 
such a small waist, you really must use cartridge pleats :-) sorry i keep on

Bjarne 


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In a message dated 2/15/2006 3:57:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Fran%C3%A7ois_Boucher_019.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Fran%C3%A7ois_Boucher_018.jpg



The color seems off in these pics.
 
Anyway, Glen Close wears a replica of this gown [in a dark teal with pink  
roses and bows] in "Dangerous Liaisons".... in the only scene where all the main 
 characters are together, at the Salon, listening to the castrate singing  
Handel.
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I hadn't thought of the partlet and I think the weight might effect the lay
of the partlet.
Connecting to the corset strap is more possibility then proof. As I can see
a person putting on the sleeves before the gown.
The corset is where I would think it could connect and it would be easier to
put the sleeves on that way then to push the sleeve cap up and attach.
There is also a possibility that the sleeve could be attached with hook and
eye just on the inside near the edge of the sleeve cap.
Sorry for not being specific on docs. vs. conjecture.

De

-----Original Message-----
Yes.  Thanks for the clarification.
I think that if the sleeves aren't part of a shirt, they'd either tie onto
the armscye of the partlet, or *perhaps* the gown.  Corset hadn't occured to
me though...what led you to think of that?
--Sue


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
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At 01:11 PM 2/15/2006, you wrote:

>----- Original Message ----- From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 9:55 PM
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] colonial
>
>
>>This shows some other portraits of similar fullness of skirt. Click on the
>>picture for bigger picture and info in Spanish. Then click on that picture
>>with enlargement features (note: 200% is fuzzy)
>>http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11680&Empnum=0&Inicio=46
>>I'm not sure, cartridge pleating looks possible. Some techniques usually
>>don't disappear so easily.
>
>
>You also clearly sees her wooden busk trough the bodice, this i 
>never noticed before.
>This must be a heavy duchesse satin, and imagine to pleat so much 
>width into such a small waist, you really must use cartridge pleats 
>:-) sorry i keep on
>
>Bjarne

Actually, there is another technique, rolled pleats.  And they are 
easy to sew into a waistband.  My tailor, Stephen Bergdahl, used them 
for my latest Elizabethan gown (I still have not learned how to do 
them since I have not needed a new gown, yet).  He said it was very 
easy.  And it does give the look of the full skirts in many of the portraits.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
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> Actually, there is another technique, rolled pleats.  And they are
> easy to sew into a waistband.  My tailor, Stephen Bergdahl, used them
> for my latest Elizabethan gown (I still have not learned how to do
> them since I have not needed a new gown, yet).  He said it was very
> easy.  And it does give the look of the full skirts in many of the
> portraits.

     Interesting - tell me more!  Can Stephen describe them?

     Knife pleats can be made with many layering on top of each other, so
they can handle the fullness.

     Most people who interpret 18th century are doing 1750 - 1780.  The
look was smoother from bodice to skirt, not the skirts coming out
horizontally from the waist like you see in 17thC and mid 19thC. 
Somewhere along the line (17th/18thC), cartridge pleats ceased to be
used.

     The portrait is earlier 18thC, and perhaps represents an opulent
fantasy style.  If anyone can get a look at extant upper class wear
of the time, we would know if there were cartridge pleats or knife
pleats.

     -Carol

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Status: RO

Oh so true Bjarne! I picked this time period to dress myself for SCA because 
of my rediculously high waist! It's the only time in history that I have the 
body type for! I have the quintessential Rubenesque body, I can't imagine 
keeping the bumroll that high if I didn't. On most folks you would have to 
tie the roll to the stays, the skirts are heavier than they look!
Kelly

> The reason why i want the bumroll to be laced to a bodice is that the 
> dress waistline is so high over the natural waistline, that it simply 
> couldnt be tied arround so high, without slipping down emediately.
>
> Bjarne
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>    The portrait is earlier 18thC, and perhaps represents an opulent
fantasy style.  If anyone can get a look at extant upper class wear
of the time, we would know if there were cartridge pleats or knife
pleats.    -Carol

If pictures in books dont suit your taste, then for a good grovel, a
CV, and a letter of introduction you can get into the Bath Museum of
Costume and fondle the real thing. Other museums have their own
rituals of supplication. <grin>

I wonder if 18th will be fashionable among costume & dance historians
this year.  When I saw Memoirs of a Geisha this weekend, there was a
preview for "Marie Antonette".
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 16:12:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hmm.... so you think they had a corset with tabs to
> which the bumroll was attached and over it the
> dress? So the dress itself should be of two parts -
> the skirt and the bodice. 
>    
>   Zuzana

The bodice and skirts were Cut separately, and then
sewn together.  
Which separately cut pieces for torso & skirting
starts showing up, maybe, 1570-ish & continues on with
varying popularity up to the current day.

The gowns were worn over chemise, corsets, and
bumroll.


Ann in CT

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPGELLFNAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 21:15:38 -0700
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Well, speaking as Sue the flower junkie, and not Susan the flower junkie
<g>, no, not really.  I've done collar and cuffs in an interlacing linear
pattern of columbines (from a mid-16th century boy's shirt in the V&A), and
will some day do columbine slips for a Helena Snackenburg (sp???) inspired
outfit, but hadn't considered the style you mentioned below.  If only
because, in part, I find the flowers so interesting in profile....;o)
The pattern from the boy's shirt is actually done in very tiny cross stitch.
I believe mine worked out to about 30 stitches/inch, done using a single
strand of royal blue Soie Cristale silk.  I charted the design out for
myself, using a delightful closeup of the collar that I just happened to
find in a generalized overview-of-embroidery book from our local library.  I
have my theories about that design, which I hope to make into an article for
competition at some point....(ah, the bliss of research ;o)
--Sue in Montana, where columbines are more of an early-mid Summer flower

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 1:25 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses


> This is the week for not finding things. I know I have seen a 1500s
> blackwork pattern of columbines. AAAHHH!
> Have you considered a full front view of the flower connected by lattice
> vines?
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Cool.  The genus name is Aquilegia.  It's in the buttercup family.
> I've toyed with trying to transform one of the english columbines
> Elizabethan patterns into the American columbine.  Ours is not as "fat"
> and the spurs are *much* longer.
>
> http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Wildflower/Images/columbine.jpg
>
> Susan, the (spring) wildflower junkie
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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Quoting Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>:

> Well, speaking as Sue the flower junkie, and not Susan the flower junkie
> <g>, no, not really.  I've done collar and cuffs in an interlacing linear
> pattern of columbines (from a mid-16th century boy's shirt in the V&A), and
> will some day do columbine slips for a Helena Snackenburg (sp???) inspired
> outfit, but hadn't considered the style you mentioned below.  If only
> because, in part, I find the flowers so interesting in profile....;o)
> The pattern from the boy's shirt is actually done in very tiny cross stitch.
> I believe mine worked out to about 30 stitches/inch, done using a single
> strand of royal blue Soie Cristale silk.  I charted the design out for
> myself, using a delightful closeup of the collar that I just happened to
> find in a generalized overview-of-embroidery book from our local library.  I
> have my theories about that design, which I hope to make into an article for
> competition at some point....(ah, the bliss of research ;o)

Cool!  (we Sue/Susan/Suzi have to stick together!)
Do you by any chance have an accession number for the V&A shirt -- or a
reference for the Overview-Of-Embroidery book?  I'd like to see that!

Thanks,
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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> Holy Crapola, that dress is beautiful, but really badly mounted.  So I
> wouldn't trust all of their information, especially about the gown meeting
> edge to edge at the centrefront.  I wish they had taken the time to mount
> the dress proprely, then you would be able to see all it's glory in the
> photos...they are great photos, I'm bummed ;-(

Sorry about the other post, I hit send accidently :~<


If you think the mounting was bad for that one, check this one out:

http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_431.htm

I LOVE this jacket, but it looks so awful there!

> If you are interested in more information about dresses from this time
> period, check out Janet Arnold's book on this period,

I have it but I don't remember too many pictures with construction
details.  Maybe I will have to look at it again.

>also Louisbourg
> National Historic Site, published booklets on clothing from this time
> period
> a few years back, they are complete with patterns and tailoring details.
> Their website is http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/ , you may be able to contact
> them for a copy.

Thanks!  I will look into that.  Costume Close-Up has been helpful for
construction information but they only have limited close-ups and usually
only one per garment.  But every little bit helps!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re: [h-cost]	italian
	childs renaissance dress
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Status: RO

For a fun time, those interested in Victorian historical "fancy dress" 
will enjoy:

http://lafayette.150m.com/dhblist.html

Photos of the Devonshire House ball of 1897.

The site often exceeds its bandwidth, but it is worth it to bookmark and 
come back later.  The thumbnails start a couple of "page downs" down the 
page, and there are enlarged versions available.

I found out it via this list a couple years ago.  I haven't been able to 
read much of this list in a week or two (lots of "life"), so please 
forgive me if someone has mentioned it already!

And if any of you are Lois McMaster-Bujold fans, I sent her the URL 
back-when and said looking at this sort of grand house helped me 
envision Vorkosigan House.  She said it was just this sort of house she 
had in mind for it, and she enjoyed looking at the costumes, too. 
(Fangirl delight!)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

US postage with medieval images on it: 
http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures/1160846
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 11:31:44 -0500
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Status: RO

I'd try small delicate flowers spread around the lower part of the skirt and 
in the bouquet. Ribbons should be delicat and not so bold since the color is 
so contrasted. I've made lots of wedding dresses and this is what I'd 
suggest.
My wedding colors were ecru/cream with wine accents. I mixed pale baby blue 
in there every so often for contrast. Gold accents in the table fabrics and 
a gold ribbon in my bouquet of wine and cream colored silk flowers. I used 
silk lilacs in the chapel. Looked great to me. And in only 2 weeks to plan 
it all.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] colonial


>
>> Oooo wedding dress!!!!!:) What color?
>> De
>
> Well, that has been the hardest part.  I want to do a white-ish color
> white, cream, chanpagne, etc.) but my accent color is a deep purple-blue.
> I originally intended to make it white with the blue accents but the
> contrast is so big!  I am still trying to figure out how to do it.
>
> I am very inspired by this painting:
>
> http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?32697+0+0
>
> But I also like the split-skirt style like the garment just posted.
> Sigh....so many ideas and I only get to choose one!
>
> Diana
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> "Become the change you want to see in the world."
> --Ghandi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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I have both Arnold books and don't need them. If anyone is interested in 
buying them, let me know. They are beautiful but not what I needed. I 
accidently ordered the wrong time period first then had to get the earlier 
period one. SO I have them both now.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial


>
>> Holy Crapola, that dress is beautiful, but really badly mounted.  So I
>> wouldn't trust all of their information, especially about the gown 
>> meeting
>> edge to edge at the centrefront.  I wish they had taken the time to mount
>> the dress proprely, then you would be able to see all it's glory in the
>> photos...they are great photos, I'm bummed ;-(
>>
>> If you are interested in more information about dresses from this time
>> period, check out Janet Arnold's book on this period, also Louisbourg
>> National Historic Site, published booklets on clothing from this time
>> period
>> a few years back, they are complete with patterns and tailoring details.
>> Their website is http://fortress.uccb.ns.ca/ , you may be able to contact
>> them for a copy.
>>
>> For those who are interested in this era, come join me and a few hundred
>> others at Louisbourg's Grande Encampment this year!
>>
>> Kelly/estela
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 2:11 AM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
>>
>>
>>>
>>>> Ooo...look what I found.
>>>> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
>>>> De
>>>
>>> I LOVE this website!  I know that they show the details to help sell the
>>> clothing but it is AWESOME for us historical costumers that may not ever
>>> get to study garments like these in person.
>>>
>>> Thanks so much for sharing!  I am trying to design my wedding gown which
>>> will roughly be from this period and I am trying to find out all I can
>>> about construction techniques.  This new colonial dress will be a big
>>> help.
>>>
>>> Diana
>>>
>>> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>>> "Everything for the Costumer"
>>>
>>> "Become the change you want to see in the world."
>>> --Ghandi
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> "Become the change you want to see in the world."
> --Ghandi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Status: RO

Hello all

as a fairly new costumer (for money) I am trying to
establish a work-from-home pattern that doesn't
involve quite so much tv - I know, I know... my brain
is rotting as I type.

I'm going to try having a special 'sewing uniform' - a
work pinafore to cover my clothes - as a signal to my
brain that now is work time.

I got to wondering if other people have special
rituals or procedures they do to separate their time,
particularly those who work at home.

You never know what useful info could come up, so I
hope you forgive this meander slightly OT.

Thanks,
Katherine

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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Subject: [h-cost] Lightbown's European Medieval Jewellery
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I hate to forward stuff, but if I had a few hundred lying around fallow I'd want this book:


---------- Forwarded message ----------
Originally posted to EK_AnS

"I have contacted the V&A about a reprint of this book ['European 
Medieval Jewellery' by Ronald W. Lightbown]. It's been out of print for 
decades and it's almost the "bible" for medieval jewellery enthusiasts 
around the world. So many people are after a copy, that I thought it 
might be worthwhile finding out what the publisher thinks about a 
reprint.

Now, generally they are not against the idea, but there are a few
things they said:

The book was and will be expensive. But seeing that the last
available copy that I know of went for something ridiculous like
$800 US, I would happily pay the £120 or £150 it cost originally -
it's a great book and worth every penny (or cent or whathaveyou....)

They need to have a ballpark figure of how many people would be
interested to buy it. If it is a close cut, those people might have
to pledge themselves to buy it for it to be reprinted, if the number
is overwhelming, they will probably not need to confirm every single
buyer. Even though I know that there are several people who would
love to have it, I also know that it's a different matter to actually
"have" to buy it, once it's available. I have wanted it for ages,
that's why I am doing this.

In any case, before anything happens, they need a number. I am asking
for your help now, in finding out how many people there would
possibly be, who would be interested in buying a copy, if it is
reprinted. All you medieval jewellery people, if you want it, please
let me know or if you know someone who wants it, could you let them
all know about it and tell them to let me know, too?

If you could pass this on to as many people you know who might be
interested or any groups you think might be interested as well, it
would help a lot and I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks everyone,

Caithlinn"
You can contact her at caithlinn@hotmail.com
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Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re:[h-cost]italian childs renaissance dress
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 14:07:31 -0500
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I'd like to see That one...(And who said that Victorians were lacking in a
sense of humor...  when it came to "Dress"?
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:[h-cost]italian
childs renaissance dress


> At 18:14 15/02/2006, you wrote:
> >I have in my collection just such a gown of the '70s that got reshaped
and
> >trotted out as QE1!  It is indeed a hoot.
> >   My very favorite of these can be seen at The Museum of the City of NY:
A
> >purple velvet number of the late '70/ early '80s and worn by Mrs. Astor.
> >She went to the party as "a Light Bulb"!!  Her Diamond headdress provided
> >the twinkling lights.
>
>
> I have a recent purchase of a fashion plate from the 1890's of a
> "Bookworm" - it was in German, so it took me a while to fathom out!
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
> > > >>>Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat.
> > >
> >
>>>http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dress&submit.
> >x=3&submit.y=10&coll_start=81
> > > >>>
> >
> > > >>I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this
> > > >>interesting gown, from the House of Worth.
> > > >>http://tinyurl.com/92mz4
> > > >>
> > > >>I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for
> > > >>the well to do. I could almost see this gown on a "friend of faire"
> > > >>person, someone who likes to dress up with something that looks
> > > >>kinda right, but isn't.
> > > >>
> > > >>And in purple velvet, it's rather fetching.
> > > >>
> > > >>Kimiko
> > >
> > > I have a fashion print showing "historical" outfits for a fancy dress
> > > (costume) ball in the 1880s.  It's hilarious from a costumer's
> > > viewpoint.  Imagine Mary Queen of Scots with an 1880s shape. :-D  Very
> >funny.
> > >
> > >
> > > Joan Jurancich
> > > joanmj@surewest.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Diana Habra wrote:

>>Oooo wedding dress!!!!!:) What color?
>>De
> 
> 
> Well, that has been the hardest part.  I want to do a white-ish color
> white, cream, chanpagne, etc.) but my accent color is a deep purple-blue. 
> I originally intended to make it white with the blue accents but the
> contrast is so big!  I am still trying to figure out how to do it.
> 

Yellow? Maybe a paler yellow, but not too light. Get some shades of blue 
  that graduate up to your darkest color, to soften the contrast.



Dawn


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Perhaps a very faint hint of color of purple/ blue (periwinkle?) for the
dress material with eggshell white bows and underskirt.
If you have the split, were you thinking of a quilted underskirt or leaving
it plan?
De
-----Original Message-----
Well, that has been the hardest part.  I want to do a white-ish color
white, cream, chanpagne, etc.) but my accent color is a deep purple-blue.
I originally intended to make it white with the blue accents but the
contrast is so big!  I am still trying to figure out how to do it.

I am very inspired by this painting:

http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?32697+0+0

But I also like the split-skirt style like the garment just posted.
Sigh....so many ideas and I only get to choose one!

Diana


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose
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http://www.sewingcentral.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?page=pp.html&ca
rt_id=71329_959

Patterns 51 and 52 (need to scroll down) Sorry, for adults but can give an
idea of what to look for in making you daughters outfit.
I had thought that Margo Anderson was working on some Elizabethan children's
patterns for her next major patterns but I guess I was thinking of another
history pattern company.
Once upon a time I could have sworn that there was a Tudor pattern for girls
that with a bit o' tweaking could be very close to period in construction
but I can't seem to find it.
De


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
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In a message dated 2/15/2006 2:45:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Evolution says its the bodice with the tabs which is the actually  corset, 
but 
i dont believe they wore such short stays. I think they used  the evolution 
shapes of the old renaissance stays. We dont know this, as  no stays excist 
from this period. Their posture kind of tells me that they  did wear corsets, 
also the way the breasts are lifted  up.



***************
 
But when you get to the 1660s you have bodices mounted onto a boned lining  
[something that really helps with the horizontal neckline]. This suggests to me 
 that there is some kind of transitional thing probably going on in the 
1630s,  It's like they start out with the corset with bodice over it but perhaps as 
the  waistline rises, the bodices start getting tacked to the corset and then 
 eventually, because of the high waist perhaps, the corset becomes the lining 
of  the bodice. They are made up separately.
 
Tabs and tassets seem to be present when some kind of lacing or tying up is  
necessary.....like in a man's doublet where the hosen are laced to the 
doublet.  With this logic, and also the attaching of rolls and pads and even  
farthingals to the corset under its tassets being common, I can see  how this was 
transferred to the actual bodice, especially if it keeps a separate  skirt up at 
the high waistline...either under or over the tassets. Also,  sometimes you 
see an unstructured open gown over the quite complete in its own  right rigid 
gown...that undergown acting like underpinnings of sorts.
 
I could find pics in books pretty easily, but I don't know where to go on  
the web. If someone thinks they know what I'm talking about [hahahahahaha!  
Gotcha!] they might be so kind as to point me to some picture sources.
 
This is not a period I have ever even made a gown for....or studied too  
closely. But I like it, and always scrutinize images from it. I love Van Dyke!  
Maybe I'm thinking of some of his portraits.
 
Y'know, we mostly think of underwear as underwear....you don't show it  off 
and it's not outerwear to be seen. But in many periods, that distinction is  
definitely a blurry one...at least in informal affairs. The fashion designer,  
Versace, who loved to comb the Met Museum in NYC, and others, understood this  
and used these notions for effect; designing couture evening gowns that, from  
afar, look like bras and slips. You can see the residue of this too even in  
guys clothes when they show the top of their boxers.
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In a message dated 2/15/2006 3:56:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

By the  way, this portrait is one of the reasons that i keep on saying  that
cartridge pleating was used in 18th century, even though the 18th  century
womens list has disagreed.



I think you're right. The big difference in this gown and is say one of  
Madam de Pompadour's is this is not an open robe. It is a bodice with skirt  
attached. The crisp silk looks cartridge pleated to me....it doesn't even look  
like those little 1/2 inch pleats you get in the 1770s and  80s.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> This is the week for not finding things. I know I have seen a 1500s
> blackwork pattern of columbines. AAAHHH!

I'm pretty sure that there's one on the dragonbear site, if not the
Elizabethan Blackwork Archives (or both .....)

AAAARRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHH

I *know* that I've seen one.  I"ll have to look at my stuff when I get
home tonight.

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitting Historians?
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 16:58:05 -0500
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What a subject!

Modern Knitting:
http://www.newhouse.com/archive/sefton021406.html

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 15, 2006, at 1:30 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:

> Hi Rosecelin,
>
>      A good source of knit historians is the Historic Kint list. It's 
> a Yahoogroup,
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/historicknit/
>
>      You didn't say what era you friend prefers - different people 
> concentrate on different time periods, cultures, etc.  There are a lot 
> of great discussions.
>
>      And we have talked about crochet, too, and it's beginnings.  I do 
> 18th century and crochet is not around for that era, either.
>
>      -Carol
>
>
>>>>   Recently there was a discussion about the history of knitting. I 
>>>> didn't really pay to much attention to it since I do not knit. But 
>>>> a friend of mine is a knitter and wants to talk to anyone who does 
>>>> know the history of knitting.
>>>>    If you can help, would you please contact me privately so I can 
>>>> get my friend in contact with you.
>>>>
>>>> Roscelin
>>>>
>>>> By the way, please excuse this question if it has been discussed. 
>>>> When did crocheting come along?  I was told long ago that it 
>>>> started after 1650 - Is this true?  I've been trying to convince a 
>>>> few of my needlework students that it is out of period for our 
>>>> group.
> _______________________________________________
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Status: RO

On some other sites the colors were dark green, teal, blue, blue green, and
blue grey. :) annoying isn't it?:P
The two paintings are different paintings. The close up is probably copied
from the other.
De

-----Original Message-----
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Fran%C3%A7ois_Boucher_019.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Fran%C3%A7ois_Boucher_018.jpg


The color seems off in these pics.

Anyway, Glen Close wears a replica of this gown [in a dark teal with pink
roses and bows] in "Dangerous Liaisons".... in the only scene where all the
main
 characters are together, at the Salon, listening to the castrate singing
Handel.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: work at home 'rituals' 
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I don't have a set routine of hours that I work - it tends to depend on what 
I'm making, and how interested in it I am, though I try to avoid too many 
evenings and weekends unless at the silly time of year (just before the new 
re-enactment season, and the time that the museums get their new annual budgets - 
i.e. about now-ish).

But I prefer a more fluid day -  I tend to work better knowing I have to get 
x, y, and z done today, than when working to strict times.  I seem to get more 
done that way.

I also tend to have more than one thing on the go at any given time (be it 
sewing or websites, or brochures, or whatever), so that when I start to tear out 
my hair over one thing, I can move onto something different for a bit.  Or 
occasionally I'll go for a walk if I just want to rip everyhting to shreds.

My start time can be anything from about 7am to about 11am, depending on how 
I feel, and whether or not I've done any work the night before (sometimes I do 
a bit after Nige goes to bed).

My workroom is on the top floor of the house, so my journey to work involves 
climbing a flight of stairs.  My 'at work' signal (clothes don't work - I've 
been known to wear pj's all day!!) is that I open the door of the room, switch 
on the light, and turn on the mains power to the machines and the radio (I 
listen to Radio 4 mostly, or books on tape when they're broadcasting repeats, or 
I'm bored with the news!).  As soon as that's done I'm 'at work'.  At some 
point during the day (time varies), I go and get lunch, and check e-mail and 
things while I'm eating.  Then I go back to work.  

My finish time is between 6 and 6.30 pm, or when Nigel gets home (6.30 - 
7.30), depending on how involved I am in what I'm doing.

Of course, there are times when I literally work a 24 hour day, mainlining 
red bull, if there's a tight deadline - and there were a couple of times that I 
worked 130 or 140 hour weeks when I first started, but I ****really**** 
wouldn't recommend that to anyone!!  :-)

Debs

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking
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That is quite a bit longer than I had imagined when I first read your email. 
Hope you weren't offended by my first response.  I'm thinking that a gown 
that long would have to be held up when walking...perhaps the fashion that's 
depicted in Jan van Eyck's 'Marriage of Giovanni Arnolfini', in that 
painting, the dress is held up in front by her hand.  I know that it's 
earlier than Tudor, but I've heard that the style held on for a good amount.

You've got me thinking now!
Kelly
>
> This image is direct, and shows what I mean.
> http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/assets/main/95_137_main.jpg
>
> I had always presumed that the outer gown was longer or the same length 
> than the kirtle worn underneath, yet that seems to not be the case in this 
> effigy, and apparently, in English gowns of the time. The kirtles shown in 
> the effigy are very long, over the feet long, as in they would be a few 
> inches lower than the ground long when you are standing. I don't follow 
> how the skirts would be constantly pooling around your feet when you are 
> standing and walking, and not trip a lot.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
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Status: RO

Just out of curiosity -- are the flowers in this lady's hair and corsage supposed to be real, and if not, how would they be made? 
 
http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?32697+0+0
 
Thanks!
Tea Rose
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPGELOFNAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor roses(sleeves)
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 21:23:41 -0700
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Status: RO

No worries! I think discussing theories like this is at least half the fun
of any hobby. ;o)
I would not have thought of attaching bits to the corset strap, but I know
that could at least, in part, be attributed to me just not running into
examples of it.  When I was still wearing 16th century stuff for SCA garb, I
always wore a strapless corset, so I tend not to think in strap terms ;o).
It would definitely be easier to have those sleeves on (one way or t'other)
before the gown-and-epaulets went one, I agree!
It would be interesting to do a study or project on something like this,
wouldn't it? and compare different methods and results?
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 2:35 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor roses(sleeves)


> I hadn't thought of the partlet and I think the weight might effect the
lay
> of the partlet.
> Connecting to the corset strap is more possibility then proof. As I can
see
> a person putting on the sleeves before the gown.
> The corset is where I would think it could connect and it would be easier
to
> put the sleeves on that way then to push the sleeve cap up and attach.
> There is also a possibility that the sleeve could be attached with hook
and
> eye just on the inside near the edge of the sleeve cap.
> Sorry for not being specific on docs. vs. conjecture.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Yes.  Thanks for the clarification.
> I think that if the sleeves aren't part of a shirt, they'd either tie onto
> the armscye of the partlet, or *perhaps* the gown.  Corset hadn't occured
to
> me though...what led you to think of that?
> --Sue
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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I don't have the accession number for the shirt, sorry, but you might be
able to find pictures of it online (people's websites and blogs, if nothing
else).  Or maybe the V&A website?  I'll try to remember to dig around in my
old bookmarks file this weekend, if someone else on the list doesn't beat me
to it. ;o)
I was quite singularly bummed out about not getting to see that darned shirt
on my one-and-only visit to the V&A, but they'd taken that exhibit down, and
put in some stupid 20th century ballgown thing.  (my apologies to those of
you fond of such things, but they're not my cup of tea as clothing or as
historical pieces)
I'll have to root through my blackwork files to get the cite for the book,
but that, I know I have.  Give me a few days?
--Sue (from Montana ;o)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
<snipped>

> Cool!  (we Sue/Susan/Suzi have to stick together!)
> Do you by any chance have an accession number for the V&A shirt -- or a
> reference for the Overview-Of-Embroidery book?  I'd like to see that!


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From: "Guenievre de Monmarche" <guenievre@erminespot.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking
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  > > This image is direct, and shows what I mean.
  > >
  > http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/assets/main/95_137_main.jpg
  > >
  > > I had always presumed that the outer gown was longer or the same
  > length
  > > than the kirtle worn underneath, yet that seems to not be the case in
  > this
  > > effigy, and apparently, in English gowns of the time. The kirtles
  > shown in
  > > the effigy are very long, over the feet long, as in they would be a
  > few
  > > inches lower than the ground long when you are standing. I don't
  > follow
  > > how the skirts would be constantly pooling around your feet when you
  > are
  > > standing and walking, and not trip a lot.
  > >
  > > Kimiko
  
I generally wear my 14th/15th century garb (both kirtle and gown layers) at
past-my-feet level as you describe, and once you've practiced in it a bit,
it's not as bad as you would think.  If I'm walking a long distance or
outdoors, I pick my skirts up, and going up stairs can be slightly tricky,
but if I'm indoors and wearing appropriate shoes (turnshoes) I can just kick
the hems out of my way as I walk.

YMMV, of course...

Jennifer / Guenièvre





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On Wed, 15 Feb 2006, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> I'd like to see That one...(And who said that Victorians were lacking
> in a sense of humor...  when it came to "Dress"?

Some of the examples I use during my talk on the Victorian view of
historic costume come from a book called "Fancy Dresses Described," by
Ardern Holt, a very popular manual of ideas for costumes for fancy-dress
parties. In addition to a large number of historical figures, it gave
instructions (and a few illustrations) for how to dress as a deck of
cards, a tea set, various flowers, etc. (The historical designs, of
course, bore little resemblance to actual period costume of the historical
figures.)

--Robin

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060215174746.19204.qmail@web35609.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tudor Roses
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 16:10:47 +1100
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kahlara" <kahlara@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 4:47 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor Roses


> Found this embroidery pattern while looking for something else. They call 
> it "English Rose" but it looks like the right thing to me. Hope it helps.
>
>  http://www.dragonbear.com/cenrose.html
>
>  Annette M
>
Actually a Tudor rose usually only has 2 layers (one rose on top of another) 
a better pattern would be the 'Queen's Order of Courtesy' pattern at the 
bottom of this page http://www.dragonbear.com/ekbadges.html with red and 
white petals (there is no firm rule about wether the red rose is in front of 
the white rose or vice versa) with a yellow centre and green leaves.
Elizabeth

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Feb 16 00:35:41 2006
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Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 00:33:08 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
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>If pictures in books dont suit your taste, then for a good grovel, a 
>CV, and a letter of introduction you can get into the Bath Museum of 
>Costume and fondle the real thing. Other museums have their own 
>rituals of supplication. <grin>

      Well, my CV is not applicable because I haven't done much 
costume professionally.  I didn't need a letter of introduction, and 
I didn't grovel, either.  Of course, I was just looking at stockings, 
not gowns - maybe they're fussier with the gowns.  A lot of museums 
are open to visits by dedicated amateurs, you just need to phone and 
write ahead of time and understand that many places are understaffed. 
It helps to belong to the Costume Society, and meet curators that 
way.  The more people you meet, the more cool stuff you can see, then 
you meet more people, and see more stuff...

      I started 20 years ago looking at lace at the Met in New York. 
Somebody helpfully told me "all you have to do is make an 
appointment."  And it worked!

      It's nice to arrive bearing gifts - chocolate is always correct. 
And if going over there (wherever "over there" is), books published 
over here are nice, too.

      A lot of people have opportunities to visit collections, so if 
the question is out there then people may remember to look when they 
do have the chance to examine original gowns.

      And then there are the symposium weekends, where a curator 
and/or private collector brings their originals to show off.

      So yes, I believe in looking at originals to learn the 
techniques that were used.

      Also, regarding American vs European - some collections in 
America include European clothing.

      -Carol
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 09:17:15 +0100
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Hi,
Yes this picture is at a museum in London, I have studyed it there in person 
a coupple of times. The size of the picture dissapointed me a little, as it 
is a very small picture. Its a lovely dress.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial


>
> In a message dated 2/15/2006 3:57:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> otsisto@socket.net writes:
>
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Fran%C3%A7ois_Boucher_019.jpg
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Fran%C3%A7ois_Boucher_018.jpg
>
>
>
> The color seems off in these pics.
>
> Anyway, Glen Close wears a replica of this gown [in a dark teal with pink
> roses and bows] in "Dangerous Liaisons".... in the only scene where all 
> the main
> characters are together, at the Salon, listening to the castrate singing
> Handel.
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 00:33:40 -0800
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If you are wearing a corset that is comfortably tight, your body doesn't
move much. On top of that, you wear a dress bodice which laces up the back
or sides, so you get a really good fit every time. It gives the smooth look.
Bjarne, would you like some photos of women dressing for the Renaissance
Faire? We try to be as authentic as possible, so we wear chemise, corset,
hoops, bumroll (which just sits on the hips, no need to lace it in,
underskirt, overskirt, and bodice top. Some of our folks who are very good
seamstresses achieve a great fit.
Sharon 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 7:21 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"


Hmm.... so you think they had a corset with tabs to which the bumroll was
attached and over it the dress? So the dress itself should be of two parts -
the skirt and the bodice. One thing that remains a mystery to me is this
perfect fit of the bodices - I'd say they were at least stiffened with
something. AlbertCat@aol.com says they were boned. 
  This thing with attaching the bumroll to the tabs of the corset is quite
interesting - I've never heard about it before. You know it from the
Evolution of Fashion? It's a real pity I haven't got that book. But it's a
good tip for buying, thanks:-)) Just one thing - how far on the tabs would
the bumroll be, I mean, just at the waist or an inch or two lower? Just to
know how to make the waistline of that bumroll. 
   
  Zuzana
   
   
  Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
    I think they wore a bodice under the dress wich had a peplum or large
tabs. 
And i would guess there was lacing holes on top of the tabs, to hold up a 
small bumroll.
Corsets must have ben worn to give this push up breasts, and smooth bodice. 
How they looked like, i really would have loved to see.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Feb 16 03:36:37 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<8C8009DD3B2C27B-17F0-BCF4@MBLK-M36.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: colonial
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 09:36:16 +0100
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Hi,
Its difficult to say. There are small flower carriers survived from the 
period. Stuck down into the bodice opening with fresh water to carry fresh 
flowers. It was very fashionable with flowers. In Denmark many of the 
flowers were imported from Italy made of porcelain.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 12:22 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: colonial


> Just out of curiosity -- are the flowers in this lady's hair and corsage 
> supposed to be real, and if not, how would they be made?
>
> http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?32697+0+0
>
> Thanks!
> Tea Rose
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Feb 16 03:52:03 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <23c.6fad522.3124f1c4@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 09:51:46 +0100
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Hi,
Suddently i remember a bodice from Bavaria, from the book: "Textile Schätze 
aus Renaissance und Barock" from Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. Its a very 
early childs bodice from the Cavalier Style Period. Only the sleave slashes 
has whalebone stiffening. No boning in the body.
But you are right that it could be used. Mens doublets had whalebone 
stiffening in the front. But i still think they wore a corset. The later 
1660-70 bodices were whaleboned, but they were also laced in the center 
back, wich makes a difference.
Its such a shame we have these gashes of mystery..........

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 10:06 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"


>
> In a message dated 2/15/2006 2:45:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
> Evolution says its the bodice with the tabs which is the actually  corset,
> but
> i dont believe they wore such short stays. I think they used  the 
> evolution
> shapes of the old renaissance stays. We dont know this, as  no stays 
> excist
> from this period. Their posture kind of tells me that they  did wear 
> corsets,
> also the way the breasts are lifted  up.
>
>
>
> ***************
>
> But when you get to the 1660s you have bodices mounted onto a boned lining
> [something that really helps with the horizontal neckline]. This suggests 
> to me
> that there is some kind of transitional thing probably going on in the
> 1630s,  It's like they start out with the corset with bodice over it but 
> perhaps as
> the  waistline rises, the bodices start getting tacked to the corset and 
> then
> eventually, because of the high waist perhaps, the corset becomes the 
> lining
> of  the bodice. They are made up separately.
>
> Tabs and tassets seem to be present when some kind of lacing or tying up 
> is
> necessary.....like in a man's doublet where the hosen are laced to the
> doublet.  With this logic, and also the attaching of rolls and pads and 
> even
> farthingals to the corset under its tassets being common, I can see  how 
> this was
> transferred to the actual bodice, especially if it keeps a separate  skirt 
> up at
> the high waistline...either under or over the tassets. Also,  sometimes 
> you
> see an unstructured open gown over the quite complete in its own  right 
> rigid
> gown...that undergown acting like underpinnings of sorts.
>
> I could find pics in books pretty easily, but I don't know where to go on
> the web. If someone thinks they know what I'm talking about [hahahahahaha!
> Gotcha!] they might be so kind as to point me to some picture sources.
>
> This is not a period I have ever even made a gown for....or studied too
> closely. But I like it, and always scrutinize images from it. I love Van 
> Dyke!
> Maybe I'm thinking of some of his portraits.
>
> Y'know, we mostly think of underwear as underwear....you don't show it 
> off
> and it's not outerwear to be seen. But in many periods, that distinction 
> is
> definitely a blurry one...at least in informal affairs. The fashion 
> designer,
> Versace, who loved to comb the Met Museum in NYC, and others, understood 
> this
> and used these notions for effect; designing couture evening gowns that, 
> from
> afar, look like bras and slips. You can see the residue of this too even 
> in
> guys clothes when they show the top of their boxers.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re: [h-cost]
	italian childs renaissance dress
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>I have a fashion print showing "historical" outfits for a fancy dress 
>(costume) ball in the 1880s.  It's hilarious from a costumer's 
>viewpoint.  Imagine Mary Queen of Scots with an 1880s shape. :-D  Very funny.

I love that stuff.  I have several of these cross-period historical prints, 
plus a couple of books about it.  Some day I'll make one, and show up at a 
Gaskell in it, as tho it'd gotten the outfit from a long gone Victorian 
theatre company.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
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Bjarne, would you like some photos of women dressing for the Renaissance
Faire? We try to be as authentic as possible, so we wear chemise, corset,
hoops, bumroll (which just sits on the hips, no need to lace it in,
underskirt, overskirt, and bodice top. Some of our folks who are very good
seamstresses achieve a great fit.
Sharon

Dear Sharon,
I think you have misunderstanded me. I was not talking about the renaissance 
period, but the later cavalier period 1625- 35 where the skirt is sitting 
very high from the natural waist.

Bjarne 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] women costumes from "The three musketeers"
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"


> Hmm.... so you think they had a corset with tabs to which the bumroll was 
> attached and over it the dress? So the dress itself should be of two 
> parts - the skirt and the bodice. One thing that remains a mystery to me 
> is this perfect fit of the bodices - I'd say they were at least stiffened 
> with something. AlbertCat@aol.com says they were boned.
>  This thing with attaching the bumroll to the tabs of the corset is quite 
> interesting - I've never heard about it before. You know it from the 
> Evolution of Fashion? It's a real pity I haven't got that book. But it's a 
> good tip for buying, thanks:-)) Just one thing - how far on the tabs would 
> the bumroll be, I mean, just at the waist or an inch or two lower? Just to 
> know how to make the waistline of that bumroll.
>
>  Zuzana

My bodices stay very smooth, and the only place they're boned is the lacing 
tabs at the front, under the stomacher.  I wear them over a corset cut very 
much like the effigy corset, but shorter and with the back slightly higher. 
Of course, I also interline my bodices with linen or canvas, depending on 
how stiff the outer fabric is. The interlining really does make a 
difference.

I use a bumroll with some of my dresses.  If the fabric is heavy enough I 
don't always need one, as I have natural padding there.  With the lighter 
weight fabrics I use a small one, but I have never had any problems with it 
falling down, so I just tie it around myself.

Melusine 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers
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> Hi,
> I think some of you might have misunderstanded my explanations to this.
> I was not reffering to the movie picture costumes, but the cavallier style 
> fashion for women. With the high waists.
> The reason why i want the bumroll to be laced to a bodice is that the 
> dress waistline is so high over the natural waistline, that it simply 
> couldnt be tied arround so high, without slipping down emediately.
>
> Bjarne

I haven't found this to be a problem with any of my dresses, and I never 
lace the bumroll to the bodice.  I just tie it around me where I want it to 
stay and it does.  I'm pretty short-waisted naturally, but no one else for 
whom I've made this style has had any problems with it, either.

Melusine 

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I've got a couple things that work for me.  First, everything is in one 
room.  I also have a smock that I wear to work in.  I first started using 
the smock just because it kept me from getting thread and lint all over my 
clothes and it had a lot of pockets, but it has come to mean "work" to me.

I can't decree "office hours" as easily as some, because my arthritis and 
fibromyalgia dictate frequent breaks and changes in routine.  For instance, 
I can't sit at the sewing machine for more than an hour at the most, so I 
try to vary my tasks so that I can keep working, but not be doing the same 
thing.  Even so, I take breaks about every 2 hours or so.  I have also found 
that, with my husband working nights, I get most of my work done in the late 
afternoon and evenings.

I have a large chalkboard in my workroom, something I picked up from the 
first costume shop I worked in.  On it are all the garments I'm currently 
making, along with what I need to do on each.  As I finish a task, it gets 
erased.  A little thing, but it really does keep me on track and I can tell 
how I'm doing with a glance.

With the exception of hand work, I try not to let the business take over my 
life.  Hand work, I take everywhere with me. It's become  joke amoung my 
friends that I'm never without a sewing kit and handsewing, but that's how I 
get it done.

The other thing that has really helped me was getting a headset for my 
telephone.  With the headset, I can take calls and still work with my hands, 
so long phone calls aren't a problem.

Melusine 

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers
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No, I haven't found it a problem either: after all, the high waist of the "Cavalier" style isn't as extreme as that of the Empire line. I'm long-waisted, but I make my bodices come down to my lower ribs and wear my bumroll round my waist. It sits on my hipbones and supports the waist of my skirts level with the bottom of the bodice.
I wear a corset with my "best" dress, but for ordinary Living History I'm thin enough to get away with bodices lined with strong fabric and lightly boned.


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> moreplentyn@earthlink.net 12/02/2006 09:11 >>>

>> Hi,
>> I think some of you might have misunderstanded my explanations to this.
>> I was not reffering to the movie picture costumes, but the cavallier style 
>> fashion for women. With the high waists.
>> The reason why i want the bumroll to be laced to a bodice is that the 
>> dress waistline is so high over the natural waistline, that it simply 
>> couldnt be tied arround so high, without slipping down emediately.
>
>> Bjarne

>I haven't found this to be a problem with any of my dresses, and I never 
>lace the bumroll to the bodice.  I just tie it around me where I want it to 
>stay and it does.  I'm pretty short-waisted naturally, but no one else for 
>whom I've made this style has had any problems with it, either.

>Melusine 
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>
> No, I haven't found it a problem either: after all, the high waist of the 
> "Cavalier" style isn't as extreme as that of the Empire line. I'm 
> long-waisted, but I make my bodices come down to my lower ribs and wear my 
> bumroll round my waist. It sits on my hipbones and supports the waist of 
> my skirts level with the bottom of the bodice.
> I wear a corset with my "best" dress, but for ordinary Living History I'm 
> thin enough to get away with bodices lined with strong fabric and lightly 
> boned.
>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor

You know, my current theory is that probably a good many women wore corsets 
under their dresses, and some women had boned bodices or boned linings in 
the dresses, and maybe some of them wore both.  There's several ways to get 
the correct line and without existant garments we really don't know.  I'm 
also pretty sure that lower class women didn't bone their garments as much 
as the upper classes did, but again, we probably won't every know.    So, I 
look at as many pictures as I can find, read as much written evidence (wills 
and other records) and then try my own theories to find what actually works 
in wearing it.

Melusine 

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God! I wish I lived closer to you all!  It would be so cool to be able to 
discuss this time period over a cuppa, 'round a campfire.  I am the only one 
in this area who does this time period and often miss my hardcore re 
enacting days.

Great conversation.
Kelly in NS


"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers
>Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 01:57:01 -0800
>
>
>
>
>>
>>No, I haven't found it a problem either: after all, the high waist of the 
>>"Cavalier" style isn't as extreme as that of the Empire line. I'm 
>>long-waisted, but I make my bodices come down to my lower ribs and wear my 
>>bumroll round my waist. It sits on my hipbones and supports the waist of 
>>my skirts level with the bottom of the bodice.
>>I wear a corset with my "best" dress, but for ordinary Living History I'm 
>>thin enough to get away with bodices lined with strong fabric and lightly 
>>boned.
>>
>>
>>Kate Bunting
>>Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
>You know, my current theory is that probably a good many women wore corsets 
>under their dresses, and some women had boned bodices or boned linings in 
>the dresses, and maybe some of them wore both.  There's several ways to get 
>the correct line and without existant garments we really don't know.  I'm 
>also pretty sure that lower class women didn't bone their garments as much 
>as the upper classes did, but again, we probably won't every know.    So, I 
>look at as many pictures as I can find, read as much written evidence 
>(wills and other records) and then try my own theories to find what 
>actually works in wearing it.
>
>Melusine
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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God! I wish I lived closer to you all!  It would be so cool to be able to
discuss this time period over a cuppa, 'round a campfire.  I am the only one
in this area who does this time period and often miss my hardcore re
enacting days.

Great conversation.
Kelly in NS

Hi Kelly,
Yeah i really agree with you, i have it the same way, i mis my gustavian 
friends, sometimes i want to imigrate to Stockholm.
But we are lucky to have this list arent we :-)
Thanks for your inputs with this topic.
I have some beautifull brocade in a mixture of cotton and viskose in light 
grey. Its a dress fabric, but it falls very heavy. Perhaps i could use this 
for a cavalier dress?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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Hi,
Some time ago the swedish television showed directors cut of Amadeus. I 
taped it. In this there i a scene where Constance pays a visit to Sallieri, 
and he tells her to come back in the evening. I dont think this scene is in 
the original version. Constance is desperate to have Sallieri help Mozart to 
get a teacher job for Princesse Louise. When she gets back in the evening, 
she starts to undress herself expecting to pay Sallieri this way. Then i 
noticed that Constance is wearing a victorian corset - like thing cut with 
the bust like a bra.............. Arhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
How on earth can this take place in a movie of today?
I never liked Amadeus costume wise, and the wigs are awfull puddle dog like. 
Some of the mens costumes are ok, and besides the Turkish dress, that an 
opera singer is wearing, womens costumes dont come to my taste.
But i know that it is very expensive to pay for all the costumes in such a 
movie, and most of them are likely rented somewhere, but really!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPEELKFNAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 09:02:44 -0500
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If some of my memory serves me right, doesn't fashion history suggest that
children were more or less dressed as minies of their elders , especially
during this time period?  My children's clothing history does not present
separate patterns or expectations until the very end of the 18th C.

Since most of the pattern companies that have been issuing period dress also
have basic children's versions that at least have been sized for smaller
frames, putting the pattern pieces next to H-costume pieces and reshape them
for the Historical look.  I have even been doing this with doll patterns of
late and as you know, the Cut is where the history happens.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 3:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose


>
http://www.sewingcentral.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?page=pp.html&ca
> rt_id=71329_959
>
> Patterns 51 and 52 (need to scroll down) Sorry, for adults but can give an
> idea of what to look for in making you daughters outfit.
> I had thought that Margo Anderson was working on some Elizabethan
children's
> patterns for her next major patterns but I guess I was thinking of another
> history pattern company.
> Once upon a time I could have sworn that there was a Tudor pattern for
girls
> that with a bit o' tweaking could be very close to period in construction
> but I can't seem to find it.
> De
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10602152314360.5275-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 09:06:56 -0500
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I mut look this one up!  It might have all those dicey tid-bits that would
amuse women at Tea.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 12:30 AM
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was
Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress


>
> On Wed, 15 Feb 2006, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > I'd like to see That one...(And who said that Victorians were lacking
> > in a sense of humor...  when it came to "Dress"?
>
> Some of the examples I use during my talk on the Victorian view of
> historic costume come from a book called "Fancy Dresses Described," by
> Ardern Holt, a very popular manual of ideas for costumes for fancy-dress
> parties. In addition to a large number of historical figures, it gave
> instructions (and a few illustrations) for how to dress as a deck of
> cards, a tea set, various flowers, etc. (The historical designs, of
> course, bore little resemblance to actual period costume of the historical
> figures.)
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was
	Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
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At 14:06 16/02/2006, you wrote:
>I mut look this one up!  It might have all those dicey tid-bits that would
>amuse women at Tea.
>
>
> > On Wed, 15 Feb 2006, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> >
> > > I'd like to see That one...(And who said that Victorians were lacking
> > > in a sense of humor...  when it came to "Dress"?
> >
> > Some of the examples I use during my talk on the Victorian view of
> > historic costume come from a book called "Fancy Dresses Described," by
> > Ardern Holt, a very popular manual of ideas for costumes for fancy-dress
> > parties. In addition to a large number of historical figures, it gave
> > instructions (and a few illustrations) for how to dress as a deck of
> > cards, a tea set, various flowers, etc. (The historical designs, of
> > course, bore little resemblance to actual period costume of the historical
> > figures.)
> >


I have a copy if you have problems finding one. Not all the 
illustrations are there, but as I picked it up cheap on E-bay, I was 
quite happy.

Suzi


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
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On Thu, 16 Feb 2006, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

[about "Fancy Dresses Described," by Ardern Holt:]

> I mut look this one up!  It might have all those dicey tid-bits that
> would amuse women at Tea.

I've found it only in rare book rooms, but it was a very popular book
(went into five or six editions) so it should be in a sizable number of
collections.

Don't know what sort of dicey tidbits you're looking for; the entire book
is costume descriptions. 

--Robin


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Status: RO

Can they do a re-issue on CD's? much cheaper to make multiple copies I would
imagine; once the scanning and all is done. (OED went that route for at
least one edition.)
Having ILL'd this volume, yes it is huge, and yes it is glorious, but the
pages were almost cardstock weight, and more of us have computers now...
Just my .02 lira; Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 12:03 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Lightbown's European Medieval Jewellery

I hate to forward stuff, but if I had a few hundred lying around fallow I'd
want this book:


---------- Forwarded message ----------
Originally posted to EK_AnS

"I have contacted the V&A about a reprint of this book ['European 
Medieval Jewellery' by Ronald W. Lightbown]. It's been out of print for 
decades and it's almost the "bible" for medieval jewellery enthusiasts 
around the world. So many people are after a copy, that I thought it 
might be worthwhile finding out what the publisher thinks about a 
reprint.

Now, generally they are not against the idea, but there are a few
things they said:

The book was and will be expensive. But seeing that the last
available copy that I know of went for something ridiculous like
$800 US, I would happily pay the £120 or £150 it cost originally -
it's a great book and worth every penny (or cent or whathaveyou....)

They need to have a ballpark figure of how many people would be
interested to buy it. If it is a close cut, those people might have
to pledge themselves to buy it for it to be reprinted, if the number
is overwhelming, they will probably not need to confirm every single
buyer. Even though I know that there are several people who would
love to have it, I also know that it's a different matter to actually
"have" to buy it, once it's available. I have wanted it for ages,
that's why I am doing this.

In any case, before anything happens, they need a number. I am asking
for your help now, in finding out how many people there would
possibly be, who would be interested in buying a copy, if it is
reprinted. All you medieval jewellery people, if you want it, please
let me know or if you know someone who wants it, could you let them
all know about it and tell them to let me know, too?

If you could pass this on to as many people you know who might be
interested or any groups you think might be interested as well, it
would help a lot and I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks everyone,

Caithlinn"
You can contact her at caithlinn@hotmail.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Feb 16 09:45:18 2006
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Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 09:15:46 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
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I wrote:

> [about "Fancy Dresses Described," by Ardern Holt:]
> 
> I've found it only in rare book rooms, but it was a very popular book
> (went into five or six editions) so it should be in a sizable number of
> collections.

Following Suzi's comment, I just found a bunch of them on bookfinder; the
cheapest ($25) is missing its plates, and the most expensive is $500!

Here's a copy with pictures on ebay, very cheap starting bid:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8384148412

--Robin

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Feb 16 09:47:17 2006
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Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 09:45:14 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Amadeus
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 2/16/2006 8:31:29 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

I never  liked Amadeus costume wise


*************
 
Ahhhhhh....the movie I love to hate! It is TACKY! That's the only word for  
it. The designer has no taste. [his other opus, "Valmont" is tacky and clueless 
 too] He just doesn't get it.
 
It won the Oscar for best costumes that year, y'know. Up against 3 films  
with perfect costumes: "Places in the Heart" [1930s midwest America]. "Passage  
to India" [the British in India, 1920s] and "The Bostonians" [1876 America]. 
All  three of these "losers" were beautifully designed with clothes that spoke 
to  character and a healthy respect for the periods and places involved. 
 
"Amadeus" was just a garish mess....and a bad movie to boot. The "fleshing  
out" of the play ruined it as well as the tacky clothes and acrylic  fur wigs. 
The play, which I saw on B'way with Tim Curry and Jane Seymour,  was great! 
Good costumes and the whole episode was clearly in Salieri's  befuddled mind, 
not reality.
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10602160857100.9108-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 09:48:48 -0500
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Status: RO

I often use my 19th C etiquette books, especially Putnam's as an
introduction to conversation.  Many of them also deal with Correct Fashion,
so Fancy Dress will be another  topic.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,was
Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress


>
> On Thu, 16 Feb 2006, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> [about "Fancy Dresses Described," by Ardern Holt:]
>
> > I mut look this one up!  It might have all those dicey tid-bits that
> > would amuse women at Tea.
>
> I've found it only in rare book rooms, but it was a very popular book
> (went into five or six editions) so it should be in a sizable number of
> collections.
>
> Don't know what sort of dicey tidbits you're looking for; the entire book
> is costume descriptions.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was
	Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
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At 15:15 16/02/2006, you wrote:

>I wrote:
>
> > [about "Fancy Dresses Described," by Ardern Holt:]
> >
> > I've found it only in rare book rooms, but it was a very popular book
> > (went into five or six editions) so it should be in a sizable number of
> > collections.
>
>Following Suzi's comment, I just found a bunch of them on bookfinder; the
>cheapest ($25) is missing its plates, and the most expensive is $500!
>
>Here's a copy with pictures on ebay, very cheap starting bid:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8384148412
>
>--Robin


Whooo, that's got more pictures than mine. Good luck bidding, if you 
decide.  I might bid if the price stays like that and nobody else is 
interested, then sell on my less complete copy. However, I don't want 
to enter a war with anybody on list, so p[lease let me know.

Thanks Robin for the heads up.

Suzi 


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Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 15:15:55 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fiskars scissors/shears- springs replaced
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Whoever commented that Fiskars sent her replacement springs - thank 
you so much.

They sent me two new springs, one of which my DH fitted, and I am go 
for cutting again. They really need a professional sharpen, (I tried 
to cut a pin, and for once I can't sharpen them well enough) but they 
are still better than the big ones I had to use.

Suzi


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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colors (was colonial)
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Not period maybe, but with deep purple-blue as accent color I'd go silver for the "white-ish" color. And I agree with Dawn about touches of an intermediate blue or blues, or, to my taste, violet.
Just two cents' worth...
Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>Sent: Feb 15, 2006 12:16 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] colors (was colonial)
>
>Diana Habra wrote:
>
>>>Oooo wedding dress!!!!!:) What color?
>>>De
>> 
>> 
>> Well, that has been the hardest part.  I want to do a white-ish color
>> white, cream, chanpagne, etc.) but my accent color is a deep purple-blue. 
>> I originally intended to make it white with the blue accents but the
>> contrast is so big!  I am still trying to figure out how to do it.
>> 
>
>Yellow? Maybe a paler yellow, but not too light. Get some shades of blue 
>  that graduate up to your darkest color, to soften the contrast.
>
>
>
>Dawn
>
>
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In a message dated 2/16/2006 11:09:04 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ruthanneb@mindspring.com writes:

Not  period maybe, but with deep purple-blue as accent color I'd go silver 
for the  "white-ish" color. 


Actually, it seems to me that I have read descriptions of silver 18th  
century wedding dresses, but I can't give you documentation, so I may be  wrong.  
 
Ann Wass
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In a message dated 2/16/2006 11:04:59 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ruthanneb@mindspring.com writes:

Not  period maybe, but with deep purple-blue as accent color I'd go silver 
for the  "white-ish" color. 


*******************
 
Indeed. An "oyster" color. Y'know, a dove grey might look  good.
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10602160857100.9108-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 10:03:36 -0500
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Just did a quick search with the usual book vendors and my jaw is still
flapping!  How about $500.00!!

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,was
Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress


>
> On Thu, 16 Feb 2006, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> [about "Fancy Dresses Described," by Ardern Holt:]
>
> > I mut look this one up!  It might have all those dicey tid-bits that
> > would amuse women at Tea.
>
> I've found it only in rare book rooms, but it was a very popular book
> (went into five or six editions) so it should be in a sizable number of
> collections.
>
> Don't know what sort of dicey tidbits you're looking for; the entire book
> is costume descriptions.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 11:46:50 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 139
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At 23:52 10/02/2006, you wrote:

>>Have you seen the "Three Musketeers" and the "Four Musketeers" with Michael
>>York, Richard Chamberlain, and Oliver Reed? Talk about costumes!!! They are
>>amazing, and they have recently become available on DVD. Although again,
>>Raquel Welch's costumes were designed differently from all the rest, and are
>>not authentic. But very pretty.
>>
>>Gail Finke
>
>This is the period in which I specialize and I have never seen such 
>good costuming in a film.  Completely ignore everything Raquel Welch 
>is wearing and the rest are amazing.  The Queen's costumes were 
>taking almost line for line from some of her portraits, and so were 
>the King's.  There are a multitude of tavern and town scenes that I 
>recognize from paintings, also.
>
>The corsetry of this time is an unknown.  The only existant corsetry 
>between 1603 and 1650 is a bodice in the V&A with a boned lining, 
>although I have heard rumors of a corset tentively dated to 1635 
>having recently been found within an English farmhouse wall.  From 
>extensive study of the visual evidence, it's pretty clear that they 
>wore some sort of foundation garment, because while the dresses and 
>necklines have a more natural, rounded look than previously, they 
>are still very smooth and supported.  My own personal theory is that 
>some women discarded their corsets and went with boned linings in 
>their dresses, but most probably all of them didn't.  Just look at 
>how many women still wore bras during the 1970's "braless" 
>era.  Again, my theory from experimenting with the shape and boning 
>placement for corsets under these styles, is that it's something 
>between the very flat fronted Elizabethan styles, and the very 
>rounded, off the shoulder style of the 1660's.  The corsets I wear 
>with my 1635 dresses are cut much like the Elizabethan effigy 
>corset, but with a higher back, higher waist, tabs cut in a piece 
>with the body like the 1660's design, and horizontal (actually 
>slightly diagonal) boning at the center front neckline.  It seems to 
>work pretty well and gives me more of a rounded front shape than the 
>Elizabethans, without looking too late.
>
>Disclaimer:  most of the above are my opinions and theories.  If 
>anyone has knowlege of existant garments that I don't, I'd love to 
>know about it.


There are boned bodices in the Museum of London, but manly from the 
1650's. I recently looked at bodices and a beautiful pair of stays 
from the 1670's. There are museums in England apart from the V &A and 
the Mof L that have boned bodices I am sure. Possibly Bath has one, 
and maybe Platt Hall in Manchester, which also has a pair of 17th 
century stays I believe. I will post the name of a book listing 
existing garments in British museums when I can find it.

Suzi


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
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On Thu, 16 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> Whooo, that's got more pictures than mine. Good luck bidding, if you
> decide.  I might bid if the price stays like that and nobody else is
> interested, then sell on my less complete copy. However, I don't want
> to enter a war with anybody on list, so p[lease let me know.

I won't be bidding; I don't really need it, and there are other books I do 
need more if I had the money to spend. Keep us posted!

If ever a book begged for Dover reprint, this is it. The fully illustrated
volumes are lovely. (The book grew, and gained more pictures, as the
years/editions progressed.)

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
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On Thu, 16 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> I have a copy if you have problems finding one. Not all the
> illustrations are there, but as I picked it up cheap on E-bay, I was
> quite happy.

OH, I am jealous!

--Robin

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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: work at home 'rituals'
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 07:46:09 -0400
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When I'm working at home, I get up with my family at 6ish and get ready for 
work as usual.  When they leave the house, I go down stairs.  My shop and 
the computer room are adjoining, I go about my day as if I were at the 
museum...check email while the iron is heating up, then into the 'shoe' for 
the day. Pierre comes home for lunch and I stop while he's home, then I stop 
for the day when the family gets home.  The only night when I work is 
monday, I have students over.  I don't work weekends or in the evenings. If 
I don't bring laundry down with me in the morning, it doesn't get done, 
that, and I hate housework, so it's a little easier for me.

Since I can't figure out the TV in the living room by myself, I don't turn 
it on, so have gotten used to the idea of not watching TV until I'm off to 
bed at night.  Pierre's an eletronics guru...his TV system makes my 
profession sewing room look like it's in the dark ages ;-)

My main point is, the getting up and preparing for work as you would outside 
the home. If you can have the space to set up your shop properly and go 
there as you would an office, it's much easier.
Deadlines help too!
Kelly in Nova Scotia


"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus




>I got to wondering if other people have special
>rituals or procedures they do to separate their time,
>particularly those who work at home.
>
>You never know what useful info could come up, so I
>hope you forgive this meander slightly OT.
>
>Thanks,
>Katherine
>
>"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
>annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
>___________________________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: work at home 'rituals'
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katherine sanders wrote:

> I got to wondering if other people have special
> rituals or procedures they do to separate their time,
> particularly those who work at home.

I'm pretty casual about my "hours", that's one of the reasons I work 
from home after all, but I do have a sort of routine. Get up, get 
breakfast, read email, get dressed. Then the _daylight hours are for 
sewing_, until around 4pm when I quit to do household stuff like prep 
dinner. I find it difficult to work after dusk, even with good lighting 
indoors.

I take breaks as often as I want to, or need to (arthritis) depending on 
my workload. I run a pretty quick turnaround time for orders and I know 
how long it takes me to make each item, so I know whether I can screw 
around the rest of the afternoon or whether I better get the dress 
finished so it can be mailed. Generally, I try to divide my time into 
large chunks. I will sew for several hours when the light is good, and I 
promise myself computer games after supper. You get much more done when 
you're not hopping all over trying to do several things. I also keep a 
list of "jobs" so I can stay on top of the workload, and cross those off 
when they're finished.

I sometimes put tv on in the background (how much of that do you really 
need to *watch*?) or plug in a bunch of renfest music, but generally I'm 
not a tv person.

My husband is very supportive of my efforts, and during crush times he 
helps by overlooking the condition of the house and fixing ( or bringing 
home) dinner for us.


Dawn


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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Quoting Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>:

> I don't have the accession number for the shirt, sorry, but you might be
> able to find pictures of it online (people's websites and blogs, if nothing
> else).  Or maybe the V&A website?

I'll have to look and see

> I'll have to root through my blackwork files to get the cite for the book,
> but that, I know I have.  Give me a few days?

Sure thing -- no hurry.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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Forgive the timelag, I've been neglecting my email for a few days.

Personally, if I was making a costume for a young child, I'd go with a separate shift and gown. The shift would be made ( wide seam allowances, tucks in the shift 'skirt' and sleeves are the two things which spring immediately to mind ) so that it can be let out when the child grows, thereby letting you get more than one years use out of it.

I think, too, that it might be more comfortable than everything joined together - it would certainly be easier to make.

My 2cents worth.

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~

--- "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:

Is there a way to make a smock that can create the illusion of being 
different parts and still be accuate? With my daughter being so young, I 
think that fewer layers would be better for her. She won't be in any 
competition of costume so I think we can fudge the costume for comfort and 
design. It only has to please us. She'd like it whether it was "period" or 
not, as long as it looked like the ones we saw last year. She tried on a 
costume that was all one piece, including a collar that stood up behing the 
head. It fit her so well and she wanted it. I ran out of money long before 
we got to that vender. I purchased fabrics to make my gown and that wasn't 
cheap. My sister bought her a French hood and she wore it all day. When we 
found the costume, the vender let her try it on and I got a picture. At 
least we got that much. She planned to go back this year and play the part. 
She made friends and she will look them up for sure.
Could be worse. She could be interested in the black hair and chains of the 
goth crowd. I'm not sure I could handle that. Dressing up for Renaissance 
Faire, we can share the time and have fun, too. This is my favorite time for 
costumes.


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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] cavalier
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Sounds yummy!

Take lots of photos, I'd love to see how you construct the gown.
We are very lucky to have this list.

Kelly



"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] cavalier
>Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 13:16:50 +0100
>
>God! I wish I lived closer to you all!  It would be so cool to be able to
>discuss this time period over a cuppa, 'round a campfire.  I am the only 
>one
>in this area who does this time period and often miss my hardcore re
>enacting days.
>
>Great conversation.
>Kelly in NS
>
>Hi Kelly,
>Yeah i really agree with you, i have it the same way, i mis my gustavian 
>friends, sometimes i want to imigrate to Stockholm.
>But we are lucky to have this list arent we :-)
>Thanks for your inputs with this topic.
>I have some beautifull brocade in a mixture of cotton and viskose in light 
>grey. Its a dress fabric, but it falls very heavy. Perhaps i could use this 
>for a cavalier dress?
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 19:35:58 +0000
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I'm really interested in wanting a blackwork pattern of columbines, also.  Actually, I was recently gifted a blackwork book of patterns and there is this one pattern that looks like a columbine but has no spurs -  they called it a pansy,  but definitely does not look like any pansy I've ever seen.

I didn't see anything at the Dragonbear site, and haven't been to the EBA site in a very long time so I guess it is about time I take a look see.  

Roscelin

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
> Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:
> 
> > This is the week for not finding things. I know I have seen a 1500s
> > blackwork pattern of columbines. AAAHHH!
> 
> I'm pretty sure that there's one on the dragonbear site, if not the
> Elizabethan Blackwork Archives (or both .....)
> 
> AAAARRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHH
> 
> I *know* that I've seen one.  I"ll have to look at my stuff when I get
> home tonight.
> 
> Jerusha
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> 
> 
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	<6.2.3.4.0.20060216151147.01d634c0@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fiskars scissors/shears- springs replaced
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 15:13:22 -0500
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'Twas I,  Suzi.  This is the first company in a long time that treats me
(and you) like a valued customer!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 10:15 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Fiskars scissors/shears- springs replaced


>
> Whoever commented that Fiskars sent her replacement springs - thank
> you so much.
>
> They sent me two new springs, one of which my DH fitted, and I am go
> for cutting again. They really need a professional sharpen, (I tried
> to cut a pin, and for once I can't sharpen them well enough) but they
> are still better than the big ones I had to use.
>
> Suzi
>
>
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From: <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 15:13:39 -0500
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Status: RO

This isn't a pattern, but this is a picture of a shirt discussed in someone elses post, (I don't remember if anyone already posted the picture, sorry if this is redundant) :-)

http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/elizabethan/boyshirt1540s.jpg

You can clearly see the columbine pattern on the collar, very lovely.

Sheridan
 

> Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:
> 
> > This is the week for not finding things. I know I have seen a 1500s
> > blackwork pattern of columbines. AAAHHH!


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Amadeus
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Bjarne:

I don't remember the costumes from Amadeus very clearly, were they really
that bad? I don't like that movie at all. I got the chance to hear the man
who wrote the play speak once, and it made me so furious! I really don't
mind what sort of messages people want to make in plays or movies, as long
as they make up the stories. But I hate it when they use real people and
change their life stories.

The story of Amadeus has very little to do with the real Mozart. He did not
live in terror of his father, he was very fond of him. And of course Salieri
didn't kill him.

I know we are all supposed to be sophisticated people who know the
difference between a story and real life. But many, many people who are
sophisticated enough to understand that Salieri didn't really murder Mozart
still think, because of the movie or play, that his father was a terrible
monster, and that he ended up in a pauper's grave. I think that is a
terrible thing to do to someone's memory.

Sigh.

Gail Finke

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To: h-costume@indra.com (Historic Costuming)
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Subject: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German
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   I hope someone can assist me.  One of the members of my "household" wants to  take a look at what a 10th to the 11th C. German man would have worn.   I 
tried to look through the net - but must not of worded my search correctly 
because I could not find anything.   
  Would the German people at this time be considered the Franks?  Any suggestions would be helpful.  
   I'm trying hard to get more of my group to join this list.  :-)

Roscelin
   
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <26b.5d5ef46.3125fec2@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colors (was colonial)
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 21:16:37 +0100
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Hi,
Yes this is true, silver and white brocade. Both in Sweden and Denmark.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colors (was colonial)


>
> In a message dated 2/16/2006 11:09:04 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> ruthanneb@mindspring.com writes:
>
> Not  period maybe, but with deep purple-blue as accent color I'd go silver
> for the  "white-ish" color.
>
>
> Actually, it seems to me that I have read descriptions of silver 18th
> century wedding dresses, but I can't give you documentation, so I may be 
> wrong.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10602160930400.9108-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 15:20:31 -0500
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You have said it! I use their edition of Braun and Schneider for lots of
picture references so I can leave the 19th C edition on the shelf.  Now to
plot my course re Fancy Dress coming from foreign climes...if I should get
it.  Will look further for an affordable copy in the US.  Got a book on line
last fall and it was going to cost four times the win for the Royal Mail.
Alas-alack! (Did find another one sometime later)
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,was
Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress


>
> On Thu, 16 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> > Whooo, that's got more pictures than mine. Good luck bidding, if you
> > decide.  I might bid if the price stays like that and nobody else is
> > interested, then sell on my less complete copy. However, I don't want
> > to enter a war with anybody on list, so p[lease let me know.
>
> I won't be bidding; I don't really need it, and there are other books I do
> need more if I had the money to spend. Keep us posted!
>
> If ever a book begged for Dover reprint, this is it. The fully illustrated
> volumes are lovely. (The book grew, and gained more pictures, as the
> years/editions progressed.)
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns for children
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That seems to be the common thought from the portraits. but I have noticed
that there are some differences in construction. In Arnold's book the
child's opening is at the shoulder. There was a woodprint that I would
estimate to be 3 years old with closing in the back like a keyhole neckline
with ties at the point. The example just recently posted by Bjarne. Style &
silhouette are similar to the adults but there is probably a different
construction to accommodate the child's body shape and convenience of
dressing the child.
De

-----Original Message-----
If some of my memory serves me right, doesn't fashion history suggest that
children were more or less dressed as minies of their elders , especially
during this time period?  My children's clothing history does not present
separate patterns or expectations until the very end of the 18th C.

Since most of the pattern companies that have been issuing period dress also
have basic children's versions that at least have been sized for smaller
frames, putting the pattern pieces next to H-costume pieces and reshape them
for the Historical look.  I have even been doing this with doll patterns of
late and as you know, the Cut is where the history happens.

Kathleen

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 3:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose


>
http://www.sewingcentral.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?page=pp.html&ca
> rt_id=71329_959
>
> Patterns 51 and 52 (need to scroll down) Sorry, for adults but can give an
> idea of what to look for in making you daughters outfit.
> I had thought that Margo Anderson was working on some Elizabethan
children's
> patterns for her next major patterns but I guess I was thinking of another
> history pattern company.
> Once upon a time I could have sworn that there was a Tudor pattern for
girls
> that with a bit o' tweaking could be very close to period in construction
> but I can't seem to find it.
> De
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet (columbines)
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 14:38:06 -0600
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I forgot about this shirt with the columbines. The blackwork pattern that I
am thinking of is from one of the German model books and is similar to the
pattern on the shirt collar.
De

-----Original Message-----
This isn't a pattern, but this is a picture of a shirt discussed in someone
elses post, (I don't remember if anyone already posted the picture, sorry if
this is redundant) :-)

http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/elizabethan/boyshirt1540s.jpg

You can clearly see the columbine pattern on the collar, very lovely.

Sheridan


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I doubt if half the subject showed up, but I wanted to be sure just which civil war (stupid name for a very uncivil action) and which side of the conflict I was researching.  I have a multitude of pictures of Confederate uniforms, but would really love to have a decent pattern to start with.  I don't need patterns for myself or most women, but have not done enough men's clothing to wing it.  Does anyone know of a reasonably accurate pattern?  Many thanks,

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


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I doubt if half the subject showed up, but I wanted to be sure just which civil war (stupid name for a very uncivil action) and which side of the conflict I was researching.  I have a multitude of pictures of Confederate uniforms, but would really love to have a decent pattern to start with.  I don't need patterns for myself or most women, but have not done enough men's clothing to wing it.  Does anyone know of a reasonably accurate pattern?  Many thanks,

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


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That is great news!  I still need to buy the second pair you asked for.  I
have a coupon good for Saturday.  Do you still want them?

Anne

They sent me two new springs, one of which my DH fitted, and I am go 
for cutting again. They really need a professional sharpen, (I tried 
to cut a pin, and for once I can't sharpen them well enough) but they 
are still better than the big ones I had to use.

Suzi


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] columbine (was Re: Smock or Partlet (was Tudor roses
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Quoting shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca:

> This isn't a pattern, but this is a picture of a shirt discussed in 
> someone elses post, (I don't remember if anyone already posted the 
> picture, sorry if this is redundant) :-)
>
> http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/elizabethan/boyshirt1540s.jpg
>
> You can clearly see the columbine pattern on the collar, very lovely.
>

WooHoo!  Now if I only had an accession number, I'd be in tall cotton!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern
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Lalah wrote:
> I doubt if half the subject showed up, but I wanted to be sure just which civil war (stupid name for a very uncivil action) 

Etymology: Middle English, from Middle French, from Latin civilis, from 
civis
1 a : of or relating to citizens b : of or relating to the state or its 
citizenry



>and which side of the conflict I was researching.  I have a multitude of pictures of Confederate uniforms, but would really love to have a decent pattern to start with.  



The only decent men's patterns from that period that I know of (the 
Simplicity ones) are not uniforms. There used to be a costumey uniform 
pattern, but it was pretty bad. I think what you'd want is a man's 
sloper, then you could adjust it to whichever picture you're trying to 
imitate. The problem with CW uniforms, in the south especially, is that 
a lot of men went to war with whatever clothing their wife sent them 
with. Each unit seems to have had its own uniform, they could vary 
wildly, and as shortages got worse, some folks gave up on uniforms 
altogether. I know that doesn't help much. :)

If I was trying it, I'd just get a men's sloper or simple coat pattern 
and start there.



Dawn


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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060216125716.23A9043B@dm22.mta.everyone.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 17:08:12 -0500
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At least for the officer's pattern, any period frock coat pattern will get
you started.  I think that my latest was from Past Patterns.  The carry
other Cw patterns (I think)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 3:57 PM
Subject: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern


> I doubt if half the subject showed up, but I wanted to be sure just which
civil war (stupid name for a very uncivil action) and which side of the
conflict I was researching.  I have a multitude of pictures of Confederate
uniforms, but would really love to have a decent pattern to start with.  I
don't need patterns for myself or most women, but have not done enough men's
clothing to wing it.  Does anyone know of a reasonably accurate pattern?
Many thanks,
>
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Netscape. just the net you need
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 16:49:30 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Check out    http://www.smoke-fire.com/pattern-shop.htm

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 16, 2006, at 3:57 PM, Lalah wrote:

> I doubt if half the subject showed up, but I wanted to be sure just 
> which civil war (stupid name for a very uncivil action) and which side 
> of the conflict I was researching.  I have a multitude of pictures of 
> Confederate uniforms, but would really love to have a decent pattern 
> to start with.  I don't need patterns for myself or most women, but 
> have not done enough men's clothing to wing it.  Does anyone know of a 
> reasonably accurate pattern?  Many thanks,
>
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Netscape. just the net you need
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,
	was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 15:10:35 -0500
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Thank you, Robin.  It is quite tempting...even with the expected high
postage!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,was
Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress


>
> I wrote:
>
> > [about "Fancy Dresses Described," by Ardern Holt:]
> >
> > I've found it only in rare book rooms, but it was a very popular book
> > (went into five or six editions) so it should be in a sizable number of
> > collections.
>
> Following Suzi's comment, I just found a bunch of them on bookfinder; the
> cheapest ($25) is missing its plates, and the most expensive is $500!
>
> Here's a copy with pictures on ebay, very cheap starting bid:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8384148412
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPIEOGFNAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns for children
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 17:17:13 -0500
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I would think that would go without saying, as in any age. Especially when
fashionable clothing was so involved both to dressing and wearing.  I
suppose that one reason we have Visual examples at all is that the child
would be prepared for the sitting(s) much as children of the 19th/20th C
were prepared for photograph sittings. In general, not until candid
photography was possible do we get any real vision of what people actually
wore in the every day.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 3:31 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns for children


> That seems to be the common thought from the portraits. but I have noticed
> that there are some differences in construction. In Arnold's book the
> child's opening is at the shoulder. There was a woodprint that I would
> estimate to be 3 years old with closing in the back like a keyhole
neckline
> with ties at the point. The example just recently posted by Bjarne. Style
&
> silhouette are similar to the adults but there is probably a different
> construction to accommodate the child's body shape and convenience of
> dressing the child.
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> If some of my memory serves me right, doesn't fashion history suggest that
> children were more or less dressed as minies of their elders , especially
> during this time period?  My children's clothing history does not present
> separate patterns or expectations until the very end of the 18th C.
>
> Since most of the pattern companies that have been issuing period dress
also
> have basic children's versions that at least have been sized for smaller
> frames, putting the pattern pieces next to H-costume pieces and reshape
them
> for the Historical look.  I have even been doing this with doll patterns
of
> late and as you know, the Cut is where the history happens.
>
> Kathleen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 3:15 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose
>
>
> >
>
http://www.sewingcentral.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?page=pp.html&ca
> > rt_id=71329_959
> >
> > Patterns 51 and 52 (need to scroll down) Sorry, for adults but can give
an
> > idea of what to look for in making you daughters outfit.
> > I had thought that Margo Anderson was working on some Elizabethan
> children's
> > patterns for her next major patterns but I guess I was thinking of
another
> > history pattern company.
> > Once upon a time I could have sworn that there was a Tudor pattern for
> girls
> > that with a bit o' tweaking could be very close to period in
construction
> > but I can't seem to find it.
> > De
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking
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At 09:02 PM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
>I generally wear my 14th/15th century garb (both kirtle and gown layers) at
>past-my-feet level as you describe, and once you've practiced in it a bit,
>it's not as bad as you would think.  If I'm walking a long distance or
>outdoors, I pick my skirts up, and going up stairs can be slightly tricky,
>but if I'm indoors and wearing appropriate shoes (turnshoes) I can just kick
>the hems out of my way as I walk.
>
>YMMV, of course...
>
>Jennifer / Guenièvre


Thank you Jennifer for sharing your experiences. If I may ask, are your 
hems stiffened in any way, or turned up a few inches? How far past your 
feet are the hems?

I am going to be making myself on of these sets of garments (both kirtle 
and gown), for an upcoming event in June, and I am trying to understand as 
much as I can before I begin.

Thank you,

Kimiko



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At 03:10 PM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
>That is quite a bit longer than I had imagined when I first read your 
>email. Hope you weren't offended by my first response.  I'm thinking that 
>a gown that long would have to be held up when walking...perhaps the 
>fashion that's depicted in Jan van Eyck's 'Marriage of Giovanni 
>Arnolfini', in that painting, the dress is held up in front by her 
>hand.  I know that it's earlier than Tudor, but I've heard that the style 
>held on for a good amount.
>
>You've got me thinking now!
>Kelly


Hi Kelly,

No offense was taken. I was wondering about earlier garments, as I know 
this time frame of the Tudors was considered a transition from medieval 
garments into later Elizabethans. But I don't know much of medieval 
garments, except as commented here and there on this list. If you come up 
with some more thoughts, please share.

Kimiko


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At 09:39 PM 2/14/2006, you wrote:
>What I learned was that as castles were very cold and during religious
>services, everyone stood (no benches, ladies would actually stand on their
>long skirts for comfort and warmth.
>Sharon


Thank you Sharon. That was an aspect I hadn't thought of, considering I 
live in a hot locale.

Kimiko


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At 10:05 PM 2/14/2006, you wrote:
>I recently had the experience to spend the day outside in a misting rainy 
>enviroment in skirts that touched the ground, if not lay upon the ground a 
>bit.  Even though the bottom ten inches or so were wet, my ankles and legs 
>were not so cold as they were a little later when I found a belt that I 
>could use to tuck up my skirts and get them off the wet ground.  The 
>longer the skirts are the less draft that can get up your skirts, 
>therefore you stay warmer.  I have also found I walk very differently in 
>long skirts.  One thing is I tend not to walk as fast, so skirts don't get 
>tangled in my legs.  The other is that for short steps up, I do a kind of 
>kick with the front hem and the skirts don't get caught under my feet as I 
>step up.
>
>   alex


Thank you Alex,

What you posted makes me wonder if their kirtles were made of wool, which 
when wet would get warmer, and with the length so very long, make for 
warmer legs even when wet.

I am going to have to try this... a later event in November is often wet 
around here, and my legs under the farthingale I wear usually gets colder 
than my shoulders, which is covered in a partlet.

Kimiko


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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> I forgot about this shirt with the columbines. The blackwork pattern that I
> am thinking of is from one of the German model books and is similar to the
> pattern on the shirt collar.

On the Arizona site for Digital Archives for weaving, there's this
book/article
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/nb33_lac.pdf
Early pattern books for lace and embroidery by Margaret Daniels

on page 28, is a columbine pattern.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
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University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 139
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> There are boned bodices in the Museum of London, but manly from the 
> 1650's. I recently looked at bodices and a beautiful pair of stays from 
> the 1670's. There are museums in England apart from the V &A and the Mof L 
> that have boned bodices I am sure. Possibly Bath has one, and maybe Platt 
> Hall in Manchester, which also has a pair of 17th century stays I believe. 
> I will post the name of a book listing existing garments in British 
> museums when I can find it.
>
> Suzi

I should have been more specific; I don't know of any boned bodices or 
corset in existance before after 1603 but before 1640.  I believe the pinked 
white silk in the V&A is dated 1640.  The bodice styles changed drastically 
about 1620, and changed again around 1640-45, so looking at the later 
garments doesn't really help much.

Melusine 

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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Quoting roscelinlimoges@comcast.net:

> I'm really interested in wanting a blackwork pattern of columbines, 
> also.  Actually, I was recently gifted a blackwork book of patterns 
> and there is this one pattern that looks like a columbine but has no 
> spurs -  they called it a pansy,  but definitely does not look like 
> any pansy I've ever seen.

I'd like to see that one.  There are a couple of columbines in the dover
"Medieval herb, plant, and flower illustrations" CD/book.  One of them
is mislabeled, however as a flax-weed.

>
> I didn't see anything at the Dragonbear site, and haven't been to the 
> EBA site in a very long time so I guess it is about time I take a 
> look see.

There were a couple of things at Kat Robeard's web site (I think I'm
remembering the name correctly) -- infotrope.net was the old domain. 
They're retrievable from the WayBack Machine -- one's from a
Schole-House for the needle (which is charted in The New Carolingian
Modelbook).  These are the same pattern, just different sizes.
http://tinyurl.com/amncs
http://tinyurl.com/cyrrs

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 18:08:44 EST
Subject: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern
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try chas r childs's patterns at county cloth.  he does the best acw uniform 
patterns I know of, (has asst paterns - richmond, columbus etc).

he also does some of the best jeans and notions.

http://www.crchilds.com/id15.htm

Debbie
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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Quoting Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>:

> Well, speaking as Sue the flower junkie, and not Susan the flower junkie
> <g>, no, not really.  I've done collar and cuffs in an interlacing linear
> pattern of columbines (from a mid-16th century boy's shirt in the V&A), and

A photo of the shirt has been posted -- it looks like from what we can
see that the collar consists of a motif, then rotated 180 ... repeating 
flip-flopped motifs sorta like hyhyhyhy ...  is this what's
going on?

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 10th - 11th C. German
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The Romanesque period costume is particularly hard to document. In central 
Europe this is the time of the Ottonians (successors to 
Charlemagne).  There are many textile fragments and a few existing garments 
from this period. Check Bender-Jorgenson for the textiles, Marc Calson's 
pages for existing garments, manuscript illumination is pretty good at this 
time also. North coastal areas would be late Viking (Ribe, etc).

Beth


At 04:23 PM 2/16/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 20:14:45 +0000
>From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net
>Subject: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German
>
>    I hope someone can assist me.  One of the members of my "household" 
> wants to  take a look at what a 10th to the 11th C. German man would have 
> worn.   I
>tried to look through the net - but must not of worded my search correctly
>because I could not find anything.
>   Would the German people at this time be considered the Franks?  Any 
> suggestions would be helpful.
>    I'm trying hard to get more of my group to join this list.  :-)
>
>Roscelin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 19:55:42 -0400
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Of the Smoke and Fire patterns, I would choose stock #RHF-701 for the shirt 
and #PI-775 for the trousers.  While at the Halifax Citadel, who recreates 
the mid 19thC, we made clothes similar to these patterns. I did make 
confederate jackets for a couple of the guys to go to Gettysburg the big 
year. They wore them as 'undress' jackets with basic civi trousers and 
shirts, they went with the 'Authentic Movement' guys, the movement guys were 
impressed with their turn out.  The pattern I used was from 
CountryCloth/Chas.R.Childs  it was very good, the only thing I did was raise 
the front neck to a natural curve. I believe that he took a pattern from an 
existing garment, similar to the ones we had at the Citadel. The undress 
jackets will scoop out in the neck as they are worn due to the fact of the 
wool they are made of, without any stabilizing interlining.

Hope that helps, if you have any questions, ask...I lived in that time 
period for several years ;-)
Kelly in Nova Scotia

Susan wrote:
Check out    http://www.smoke-fire.com/pattern-shop.htm

Lalah wrote:
> of the conflict I was researching.  I have a multitude of pictures of 
> Confederate uniforms, but would really love to have a decent pattern to 
> start with. 
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Kimiko, have you tried wearing a wool petticoat under your farthingale? I 
find it helps when I'm out in the cold. But then I'm also the type that 
wears wool socks all year around, and sleep in flannel sheets all year 
too...I find they regulate my temp better than if I dressed for fashion;->

Kelly

> I am going to have to try this... a later event in November is often wet 
> around here, and my legs under the farthingale I wear usually gets colder 
> than my shoulders, which is covered in a partlet.
>
> Kimiko
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Subject: [h-cost] Victorian Bristish Costume Book
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I have this book and been working on getting it on my website for the past 
two years.  Even though some of the costumes are not period correct, they 
are the costumes that people during this time wore to fancy dressed balls, 
plays, etc.  We have about half of the book's descriptions typed.  I can't 
pull the book at this moment to quote from it. But going on memory, it was 
written or supported by a large costume house in London.  When I am working 
on the book again, I will pull the credits and provide more information. 
Kathleen once I have the book online, I will loan it to you.

This book on eBay is *one* edition of the book and the costumes are for 
women and children.  There were a few editions.  I think the last one was 
published in 1900.  I have been looking for the menwear edition of this book 
for a few years.  I found one dealer who had the men's costume book, but he 
was in England and the price and shipping was more than I had at the time.

The price of this book is high.  I have seen it extremely high  You can find 
some tattered editions at antique bookstores online.  My copy is in good 
condition.

Queen Victoria was fascinated with historically inspired costume balls and a 
lot of research went behind the costumes worn to them.  I have been working 
on a few articles about these balls.  One reason for the balls was to give a 
boost to the economy of England in the 1840s & 1850s.  There is a really 
good article about her balls in an 1980s Costume Society of America's 
journal "Dress."  The article goes into more detail about this.

Kathleen, your 1868 book, The Corset and the Crinoline, will have three more 
chapters (5-7) online within a week or so.  Watch for the announcements.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 19:14:32 -0500
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Status: RO

I think that joingin the parts will definitely be done for my duaghter's 
costume. I think that she will learn to walk like a lady instead of dropping 
on the ground like she does. If she has a hoop skirt, she will definitely 
learn not NOT to sit.
I found a pattern that is very similar to what she wants. I bought it on 
eBay. I haven't gotten it yet. Item: 9836 Girls Halloween Renaissance 
Costumes Patterns 7-14. She wants one similar to the white one.
She wants something pink so I've been looking for a good fabric AND 
Reanaissance period design. ANY suggestions out there in the group?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joannah Hansen" <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses


> Forgive the timelag, I've been neglecting my email for a few days.
>
> Personally, if I was making a costume for a young child, I'd go with a 
> separate shift and gown. The shift would be made ( wide seam allowances, 
> tucks in the shift 'skirt' and sleeves are the two things which spring 
> immediately to mind ) so that it can be let out when the child grows, 
> thereby letting you get more than one years use out of it.
>
> I think, too, that it might be more comfortable than everything joined 
> together - it would certainly be easier to make.
>
> My 2cents worth.
>
> Joannah
>
> ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~
>
> --- "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Is there a way to make a smock that can create the illusion of being
> different parts and still be accuate? With my daughter being so young, I
> think that fewer layers would be better for her. She won't be in any
> competition of costume so I think we can fudge the costume for comfort and
> design. It only has to please us. She'd like it whether it was "period" or
> not, as long as it looked like the ones we saw last year. She tried on a
> costume that was all one piece, including a collar that stood up behing 
> the
> head. It fit her so well and she wanted it. I ran out of money long before
> we got to that vender. I purchased fabrics to make my gown and that wasn't
> cheap. My sister bought her a French hood and she wore it all day. When we
> found the costume, the vender let her try it on and I got a picture. At
> least we got that much. She planned to go back this year and play the 
> part.
> She made friends and she will look them up for sure.
> Could be worse. She could be interested in the black hair and chains of 
> the
> goth crowd. I'm not sure I could handle that. Dressing up for Renaissance
> Faire, we can share the time and have fun, too. This is my favorite time 
> for
> costumes.
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community!
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com> wrote:

> I've toyed with trying to transform one of the
> english columbines
> Elizabethan patterns into the American columbine. 
> Ours is not as "fat" and the spurs are *much*
longer.
> 
>
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Wildflower/Images/columbine.jpg
> 
> Susan, the (spring) wildflower junkie

The Eastern columbine that grows wild in my yard, but
is endangered, looks just like the picture in your
link.

The Western columbine tends towards blue & is shorter
by a lot, from what I've seen.


And this Columbine would make for a very different
Comedia del'Arte troupe costuming.

Ann in CT

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> On Thu, 16 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> > Whooo, that's got more pictures than mine. Good luck bidding, if you
> > decide.  I might bid if the price stays like that and nobody else is
> > interested, then sell on my less complete copy. However, I don't want
> > to enter a war with anybody on list, so p[lease let me know.

The current winning bidder is a good friend of mine.  I hope to see it
if she wins.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Boned Stuart bodices doublets (was: Re: h-costume Digest,
	Vol 5, Issue 139)
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>> There are boned bodices in the Museum of London, but manly from the
>> 1650's. I recently looked at bodices and a beautiful pair of stays from

Melusine> I should have been more specific; I don't know of any boned bodices or
corset in existance before after 1603 but before 1640.  I believe the pinked
white silk in the V&A is dated 1640.  The bodice styles changed drastically
about 1620, and changed again around 1640-45, so looking at the later
garments doesn't really help much.

How odd that men's doublets are boned, yet the women's arent. Ref:
Naomi Tarrant's Devel of Costume, p.109-110 photos "showing the thick
cardboard used to create the straight area between the chest and
waist. The front edge is further stiffened by a whalebone." The
doublet is 1630s, Natl Museum of Scotland.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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Quoting Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>:

>
>
> --- "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com> wrote:
>
>> I've toyed with trying to transform one of the
>> english columbines
>> Elizabethan patterns into the American columbine.
>> Ours is not as "fat" and the spurs are *much*
> longer.
>>
>>
> http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Wildflower/Images/columbine.jpg
>>
>> Susan, the (spring) wildflower junkie
>
> The Eastern columbine that grows wild in my yard, but
> is endangered, looks just like the picture in your
> link.
>
> The Western columbine tends towards blue & is shorter
> by a lot, from what I've seen.

I did some poking around the Flora of North America today, and there are
(or were) 14 species of columbine in North America -- white, yellow, and
colored like out eastern columbine -- but Aquilegia canadensis, the
eastern columbine, is the only one that we have in the east!

you can see some pictures here
http://snipurl.com/mnd7
This is the plants.usda.gov website.  It's a neat place if you're into
plants.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fancy Dress book on Ebay
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Cynthia,

The book's images will differ from the year's editions, but only with a few 
of the images.  I can't recall off-hand but certain images are the same in 
every book.  I did a lot of research on this book before purchasing it.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 01:15:38 +0000
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I could scan it for you and send it to you privately, if you would like.  It's nice when I can help someone from here instead of me asking for help all of the time. LOL

Roscelin

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>

> I'd like to see that one.  There are a couple of columbines in the dover
> "Medieval herb, plant, and flower illustrations" CD/book.  One of them
> is mislabeled, however as a flax-weed.
> 
> 
> There were a couple of things at Kat Robeard's web site (I think I'm
> remembering the name correctly) -- infotrope.net was the old domain. 
> They're retrievable from the WayBack Machine -- one's from a
> Schole-House for the needle (which is charted in The New Carolingian
> Modelbook).  These are the same pattern, just different sizes.
> http://tinyurl.com/amncs
> http://tinyurl.com/cyrrs
> 
I'll have to take a look at my New Caroligian Modelbook - I don't recall seeing a columbine there, but it's been awhile since I opened that book.

I would like to actually chart out a blackwork design to stitch on a coif for myself, but that won't happen until I get some of my other projects done first.  It would make it easier to chart something also if I could find largeer sheets of graphing paper.  More than likely I will piece pages of graphing paper together.

Roscelin
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boned Stuart bodices doublets (was: Re: h-costume Digest,
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> How odd that men's doublets are boned, yet the women's arent. Ref:
> Naomi Tarrant's Devel of Costume, p.109-110 photos "showing the thick
> cardboard used to create the straight area between the chest and
> waist. The front edge is further stiffened by a whalebone." The
> doublet is 1630s, Natl Museum of Scotland.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com

Oh, cool, another existant garment I didn't know about.  I'll be trying to 
get a hold of this book next week, but in the mean time is this garment 
pictured anywhere on the net, or does anyone have a copy that they could 
scan and send me?

thanks,

Melusine 

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Status: RO

On Fancy Dress & the Masquerade

 "O Jesu -- Coz -- why this fantastick dress?
I fear some Frenzy does your Head possess;
That thus you sweep along a Turkish Tail,
And let that Robe o'er Modesty prevail...

Why in this naughty Vestment are you seen?
Dress'd up for Love, with such an Air and Mien,
As if you wou'd commence Sultana Queen."

               --J. Arbuthnot
_The Ball, Stated in a Dialogue Betwixt a Prude and a Coquet_," 1724


--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 18:04:17 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers
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>I think some of you might have misunderstanded my explanations to this.
>I was not reffering to the movie picture costumes, but the cavallier style
>fashion for women. With the high waists.
>The reason why i want the bumroll to be laced to a bodice is that the dress
>waistline is so high over the natural waistline, that it simply couldnt be
>tied arround so high, without slipping down emediately.

>Bjarne

I think I understood just fine.  My Stuart gown is suitably high
waisted. With my bumme sitting on my hips, the 4" (10cm) diameter
bumme raises my waist considerably. There are only 6" betw my waist
line and corseted bustline.  Perhaps the lovely ladies that you dress
are much taller & long-waisted than I.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lightbown's European Medieval Jewellery
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On Thursday 16 February 2006 9:40 am, Betsy Marshall wrote:
> Can they do a re-issue on CD's? much cheaper to make multiple copies I
> would imagine; once the scanning and all is done. (OED went that route for
> at least one edition.)
> Having ILL'd this volume, yes it is huge, and yes it is glorious, but the
> pages were almost cardstock weight, and more of us have computers now...
> Just my .02 lira; Betsy

If it were impossible to do a re-issue any other way, I would be happy to see 
Lightbown, or any other useful work, on CD-Rom.  

But the last time I purchased a costume-related work on CD-Rom I was very 
unhappy.  The work, of course, was copy-protected, meaning that I could only 
read it on my computer, which I find awkward to do for long stretches.  I 
would hate to have to read Lightbown that way.

There's my tuppence.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 3 musketeers
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 18:51:27 -0800
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In either "the 3 Musketeers" or "The 4 Musketeers", (I forget which one)the
ones with Fay Dunaway and Michael York, there is a scene where Faye is
undressing. I don't know if the undergarments are authentic or not, but it's
a start.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 6:04 PM
To: h-cost
Subject: re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers


>I think some of you might have misunderstanded my explanations to this. 
>I was not reffering to the movie picture costumes, but the cavallier 
>style fashion for women. With the high waists. The reason why i want 
>the bumroll to be laced to a bodice is that the dress waistline is so 
>high over the natural waistline, that it simply couldnt be tied arround 
>so high, without slipping down emediately.

>Bjarne

I think I understood just fine.  My Stuart gown is suitably high waisted.
With my bumme sitting on my hips, the 4" (10cm) diameter bumme raises my
waist considerably. There are only 6" betw my waist line and corseted
bustline.  Perhaps the lovely ladies that you dress are much taller &
long-waisted than I. --cin Cynthia Barnes CinBarnes@gmail.com

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References: <20060216201423.CRSZ3527.tomts3-srv.bellnexxia.net@mtas.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses
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Awesome! Thanks, Sheridan! That's the shirt I took my pattern from! ;o)
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet was Tudor roses


> This isn't a pattern, but this is a picture of a shirt discussed in
someone elses post, (I don't remember if anyone already posted the picture,
sorry if this is redundant) :-)
>
> http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/elizabethan/boyshirt1540s.jpg
>
> You can clearly see the columbine pattern on the collar, very lovely.
>
> Sheridan


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Sorry about the double posting.  I only sent it once - honest.
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote:

From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 12:57:16 -0800 (PST)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern

I doubt if half the subject showed up, but I wanted to be sure just which civil war (stupid name for a very uncivil action) and which side of the conflict I was researching.  I have a multitude of pictures of Confederate uniforms, but would really love to have a decent pattern to start with.  I don't need patterns for myself or most women, but have not done enough men's clothing to wing it.  Does anyone know of a reasonably accurate pattern?  Many thanks,

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


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In a message dated 2/16/06 11:56:53 PM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> The problem with CW uniforms, in the south especially, is that 
> a lot of men went to war with whatever clothing their wife sent them 
> with.

Sorry, but that's untrue, although it's an incredibly commonly believed myth, 
and one of my pet hates about re-enactment.  

During the very, very early part of the war it would have been accurate, but 
only for a matter of months, until clothing supply and issue was sorted out.
And during the latter part of the war, uniforms may have become ragged, but 
they'd still have been uniforms
(I've done quite a lot of research on acw uniforms for work, helped greatly 
by assorted people with access to the original stuff (and state records) in the 
states - plus of course, there's Don Troiani's fabulous books).

Both the Confederate and Union armies were issued with clothing - true, the 
pattern and quality varied - true, it wasn't always regulation - true, it may 
have been badly fitting, due to the fairly common practise of marking up the 
sizes by suppliers so they could get more money for using less cloth, and true, 
it was augmented by clothing sent from home, and by a large number of 
privately purchased garments, (and true, union soldiers used to jump up and down on 
their hats so they could wear their own), but you only have to look at original 
photographs to realise that the uniform supply was hugely successful, on both 
sides, at least until the very later stages of the war.  They don't look like 
a 'raggle-taggle band' - they look like an army.

And it wasn't until the later stages of the war that things were really cut 
off - for example, a number of button manufacturers in the northern states, (at 
least one of which is still in existence (waterbury)), made buttons for both 
armies, supplying the Confederacy by shipping them to England, and employing 
blockade runners.  A couple of English companies, (eg Firmans), did the same 
thing.  This is confirmed by the company archives.  Apparently, Hainsworths in 
Leeds also supplied both sides with woollen fabrics in a similar manner 
(archives again.)

Anyway - getting off the soapbox  :-), the county cloth patterns are based on 
originals (I've never used them personally, as they're for private use only, 
and I cut my own anyway, but I believe they're quite straight forward).


Debbie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern
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Thanks to all of you who wrote.  I have been making costumes in the medieval and Regency periods for several years, but haven't done any Civil War stuff before this.  It should be interesting.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com> wrote:

From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 19:55:42 -0400
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern


Of the Smoke and Fire patterns, I would choose stock #RHF-701 for the shirt 
and #PI-775 for the trousers.  While at the Halifax Citadel, who recreates 
the mid 19thC, we made clothes similar to these patterns. I did make 
confederate jackets for a couple of the guys to go to Gettysburg the big 
year. They wore them as 'undress' jackets with basic civi trousers and 
shirts, they went with the 'Authentic Movement' guys, the movement guys were 
impressed with their turn out.  The pattern I used was from 
CountryCloth/Chas.R.Childs  it was very good, the only thing I did was raise 
the front neck to a natural curve. I believe that he took a pattern from an 
existing garment, similar to the ones we had at the Citadel. The undress 
jackets will scoop out in the neck as they are worn due to the fact of the 
wool they are made of, without any stabilizing interlining.

Hope that helps, if you have any questions, ask...I lived in that time 
period for several years ;-)
Kelly in Nova Scotia

Susan wrote:
Check out    http://www.smoke-fire.com/pattern-shop.htm

Lalah wrote:
> of the conflict I was researching.  I have a multitude of pictures of 
> Confederate uniforms, but would really love to have a decent pattern to 
> start with. 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German
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On Thursday 16 February 2006 3:14 pm, roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:
>    I hope someone can assist me.  One of the members of my "household"
> wants to  take a look at what a 10th to the 11th C. German man would have
> worn.   I tried to look through the net - but must not of worded my search
> correctly because I could not find anything.

Try the page I have given the URL for below.  There's a sumptious color 
picture of a royal dalmatic (i.e., a tunic) in the Kunsthistorische Museum, 
Vienna from about 1130 C.E.  (it's about a third of the way down the page).  
An ordinary German man would not have worn anything of silk, or with such 
sumptuous embroidery, but the cut likely would have been similar.  

There's a black-and-white photo of an earlier German tunic on the same page, 
but there's a problem with the neckline as it's shown there--you'll see what 
I mean if you look at it.

http://www.virtue.to/articles/extant.html


>   Would the German people at this time be considered the Franks?  

No.  The Franks had become associated with the area we now call France by 
then.

>   Any 
> suggestions would be helpful. I'm trying hard to get more of my group to
> join this list.  :-)

I highly recommend it!  It's one of my favorite lists.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking
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At 04:02 PM 2/16/2006, you wrote:
>Kimiko, have you tried wearing a wool petticoat under your farthingale? I 
>find it helps when I'm out in the cold. But then I'm also the type that 
>wears wool socks all year around, and sleep in flannel sheets all year 
>too...I find they regulate my temp better than if I dressed for fashion;->
>
>Kelly


Hi Kelly,

No, I haven't done so, but with some wool I just found I think I will. You 
see, usually our faires are broiling hot, 90-115 degrees F. Sometimes, 
every once in awhile, we get rain or even snow! But that's so rare, that I 
usually don't have anything prepared for it other than my very old and 
ratty cape. But now that I am going to be doing a faire I know will be 
raining more often than not, I will make myself a new wool petticoat to 
keep my legs warm.

Kimiko


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Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 22:32:25 -0500
From: "RON CARNEGIE" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Amadeus
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I hated the movies as well, and felt as if I was alone in that.  I hated the 
costumes and the wigs, and I hated the made up story.  Even more so in the 
fact that so many people dont get that movies about real people do nothave 
to be true!  People do take them as gospel.

Ron Carnegie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 3:02 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Amadeus


>
> Bjarne:
>
> I don't remember the costumes from Amadeus very clearly, were they really
> that bad? I don't like that movie at all. I got the chance to hear the man
> who wrote the play speak once, and it made me so furious! I really don't
> mind what sort of messages people want to make in plays or movies, as long
> as they make up the stories. But I hate it when they use real people and
> change their life stories.
>
> The story of Amadeus has very little to do with the real Mozart. He did 
> not
> live in terror of his father, he was very fond of him. And of course 
> Salieri
> didn't kill him.
>
> I know we are all supposed to be sophisticated people who know the
> difference between a story and real life. But many, many people who are
> sophisticated enough to understand that Salieri didn't really murder 
> Mozart
> still think, because of the movie or play, that his father was a terrible
> monster, and that he ended up in a pauper's grave. I think that is a
> terrible thing to do to someone's memory.
>
> Sigh.
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers
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In a message dated 2/16/2006 9:51:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

In  either "the 3 Musketeers" or "The 4 Musketeers", (I forget which  one)the
ones with Fay Dunaway and Michael York, there is a scene where Faye  is
undressing. I don't know if the undergarments are authentic or not, but  it's
a start.
 
************************




It's a great scene...with the Duke of Buckingham undressing her. He takes  
the busk out of its casing and throws it over his shoulder. I think there's  
another scene with her inserting the busk into the corset somewhere too. I  think 
the corset is a bit whimsical though.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Amadeus
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In a message dated 2/16/2006 10:33:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
r.carnegie@verizon.net writes:

Even  more so in the 
fact that so many people dont get that movies about real  people do nothave 
to be true!  People do take them as  gospel.



Speaking of....3 Musketeers is about real people too....the King of France  
and the Duke of Buckingham were real people.... but no one believes Dumas' 
story  is true. Perhaps because the main characters are not real.
 
But also, did anyone believe "The Music Makers?" or "Listomania"?   [God 
bless Ken Russell]?
 
Why would anyone believe "Amadeus?"
 
But you're right, they do!
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> sharon@collierfam.com writes:
>
> In  either "the 3 Musketeers" or "The 4 Musketeers", (I forget which 
> one)the
> ones with Fay Dunaway and Michael York, there is a scene where Faye  is
> undressing. I don't know if the undergarments are authentic or not, but 
> it's
> a start.
> > (sorry, didn't get the name of the person who answered below)
> It's a great scene...with the Duke of Buckingham undressing her. He takes
> the busk out of its casing and throws it over his shoulder. I think 
> there's
> another scene with her inserting the busk into the corset somewhere too. I 
> think
> the corset is a bit whimsical though.
This corset reminds me of pictures I've seen of an iron corset from 
somewhere in the Elizabethan (I think) period.  I think I remember reading 
somewhere that it was thought to be an orthopedic device of some sort. 
Anyway, while the busk is probably correct, and the bum roll most certainly 
is, I'm not really sure about that corset.  I think it would look a bit 
different.

Melusine 

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> Speaking of....3 Musketeers is about real people too....the King of France
> and the Duke of Buckingham were real people.... but no one believes Dumas'
> story  is true. Perhaps because the main characters are not real.
(snip)

Actually, d'Artagnan was a real person, and was a member, eventually 
captain, of the King's Musketeers.  However, the historical Charles de 
Batz-Castlemore d'Artagnan was born somewhere around 1625 and so most of his 
exploits were during the reign of Louis XIV, not Louis XIII.  Athos, Porthos 
and Aramis were also historic characters, but there is no record of them 
ever meeting d'Artagnan, and as a matter of fact I believe that Athos was 
killed in a duel around the time d'Artagnan was born.

I have friends who last year visited the part of Gascony that contains the 
town of Artagnan.  The town museum is full of the information about the 
historical figure.  There was also a rather fanciful biography written in 
the early 18th cen. that is where Dumas got the idea for his stories, but he 
most certainly played fast and loose with the time period and other facts. 
For instance, Cardinal Richelieu, far from being the villian portrayed in 
Dumas' stories, was arguably one of the greatest statesmen in France's 
history.

Melusine
(the Three Musketeers may be why I fell in love with this time period, but 
my research sure didn't stop there) 

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Subject: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)
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Hey Robin!

>From the SCA garb list ...
> Can I forward this to the H-Costume list where
> Robin Netherton hangs out?  She's way interested
> in tippets.
> Jerusha

Sure. Please tell her it was pointed out by John Dillion on the Medieval
Religion List. I'm sure she'll recognise his name.

Hrothny

A fresco on the wall of the hexagonal baptistery of San Giovanni
Battista (said to be originally ninth-cent., with fifteenth- and
sixteenth-century frescoes) showing the marriage of St. Catherine of
Sienna.

http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4&k1=6&k2=1
=======

It's Italian, but dig those tippets!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German
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On Feb 16, 2006, at 12:14 PM, roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:

>    I hope someone can assist me.  One of the members of my  
> "household" wants to  take a look at what a 10th to the 11th C.  
> German man would have worn.   I
> tried to look through the net - but must not of worded my search  
> correctly
> because I could not find anything.
>   Would the German people at this time be considered the Franks?   
> Any suggestions would be helpful.
>    I'm trying hard to get more of my group to join this list.  :-)

There are a few surviving garments form Germany during this era.  On  
the ecclesiastical side, there are fairly extensive sets of grave  
clothes from St. Ulrich (at Augsburg) and from Pope Clement II (at  
Bamberg).  Surviving secular clothing from 10-11th c. Germany  
primarily include some of the earliest items associated with the Holy  
Roman Emperors, including some embroidered bands from a tunic,  
several half-circular cloaks, and a pair of full length cloth hose.

Publications covering some of these garments include:

Bayerischen Nationalmuseum.  1955.  Sakrale Gewänder des  
Mittelalters.  Ausstellung im Bayerischen Nationalmuseum München.

Bernhart, Joseph.  1955. "Bischof Udalrich von Augsburg" in Augusta:  
955-1955.  Verlag Hermann Rinn.

Müller-Christensen, Sigrid.  1953.  "Konservierung alter Textilien"  
in Deutsche Kunst und Denkmalpflege, 1953/1:28-35.

Müller-Christensen, Sigrid.  1955.  "Die Konservierung der Augsburger  
Ulrichsgewänder" in Deutsche Kunst und Denkmalpflege, 1955/2:111-116.

Müller-Christensen, Sigrid.  1960.  Das Grab des Papstes Clemens II.  
im Dom zu Bamberg.  Verlag F. Bruckmann, München.

Muthesius, Anna.  1997.  Byzantine Silk Weaving AD 400 to AD 1200.   
Verlag Fassbaender, Vienna.

Ritz, J.M.  1955.  "Ausstellung Sakraler Gewänder des Mittelalters in  
München" in Deutsche Kunst und Denkmalpflege, 1955/2:117-120.

Schramm, Percy Ernst & Florentine Mutherich.  1962.  Denkmale der  
deutschen Konige und Kaiser.  Prestel Verlag, München.

  "Textilien in Schwaben" in  Suevia Sacra.  1973.    51-216, pl. 
188-214.

Wardwell, Anne E.  1974.  "Archaeology and Medieval Textiles" given  
at Irene Emery Roundtable on Mueseum Textiles.

Heather

--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj



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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 21:11:00 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Feb 16, 2006, at 7:32 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> On Thursday 16 February 2006 3:14 pm, roscelinlimoges@comcast.net  
> wrote:
>>    I hope someone can assist me.  One of the members of my  
>> "household"
>> wants to  take a look at what a 10th to the 11th C. German man  
>> would have
>> worn.   I tried to look through the net - but must not of worded  
>> my search
>> correctly because I could not find anything.
>
> Try the page I have given the URL for below.  There's a sumptious  
> color
> picture of a royal dalmatic (i.e., a tunic) in the Kunsthistorische  
> Museum,
> Vienna from about 1130 C.E.  (it's about a third of the way down  
> the page).
> An ordinary German man would not have worn anything of silk, or  
> with such
> sumptuous embroidery, but the cut likely would have been similar.
>
> There's a black-and-white photo of an earlier German tunic on the  
> same page,
> but there's a problem with the neckline as it's shown there--you'll  
> see what
> I mean if you look at it.

There isn't so much a "problem" with the neckline as that it's a  
rather unusually shaped neckline.  The particular angle of the  
photograph is also not very good for seeing what's going on with the  
neck.  Asymmetric "side-opening" necklines are quite common among the  
surviving garments of this era (what few there are).

Heather

--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Smock or Partlet (columbines)
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 23:17:37 -0600
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The top one is the on I was thinking about but it was not paired with
another columbine pattern like this. The bottom pattern is on the shirt
collar, I think.
Thank you,
De

-----Original Message-----
Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> I forgot about this shirt with the columbines. The blackwork pattern that
I
> am thinking of is from one of the German model books and is similar to the
> pattern on the shirt collar.

On the Arizona site for Digital Archives for weaving, there's this
book/article
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/nb33_lac.pdf
Early pattern books for lace and embroidery by Margaret Daniels

on page 28, is a columbine pattern.

Susan
-----


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German
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On Friday 17 February 2006 12:11 am, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
[snip]

> There isn't so much a "problem" with the neckline as that it's a
> rather unusually shaped neckline.  The particular angle of the
> photograph is also not very good for seeing what's going on with the
> neck.  Asymmetric "side-opening" necklines are quite common among the
> surviving garments of this era (what few there are).

I'm familiar with asymmetric necklines (the color photograph on Cynthia 
Virtue's page to which I referred the original poster has one, in fact).  But 
the black and white photo in question appears to have an extra band appearing 
in the middle of what looks like a *symmetrical* neckline.  

Definitely a bad camera angle, that.  :-)

--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Subject: [h-cost] Fancy Dress Described
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Hello,

We have two copies of this book, different editions:

Fifth edition, 1887, and sixth edition, no date visible.  Both seem 
to have all the plates.  The sixth edition has six pages in the back 
of advertisement from Debenham & Freebody, who would make up any of 
the dresses in the book for customers/clients.

We also have "Gentlemen's Fancy Dress - How to Choose It" also by 
Ardern Holt, date is 1882.  The preface indicates it came out at the 
time the third edition was in print.  It has all its illustrations 
also, but none of them were done in color.  It is much thinner than 
the women's books.  It also contains ads for makers of the outfits, 
as well as hat and wig makers.

Fun stuff!!

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 00:49:37 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)
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On Thu, 16 Feb 2006, Susan Farmer wrote:

> Hey Robin!

Thanks for thinking of me!
 
> A fresco on the wall of the hexagonal baptistery of San Giovanni
> Battista (said to be originally ninth-cent., with fifteenth- and
> sixteenth-century frescoes) showing the marriage of St. Catherine of
> Sienna.
> 
> http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4&k1=6&k2=1 =======
> 
> It's Italian, but dig those tippets!

I'm still reeling from the off-the-shoulder neckline ...

The tippets are definitely fun. The Italians did some really bizarre
things in art at this time.  Note that if this is really Catherine of
Siena, the costume is deliberately archaic; Catherine of Siena died in
1380 and was not canonized till 1461. Howver, the "Mystic Marriage" scene
shows up in art at least as early as 1340, in depictions of St. Catherine
of Alexandria, well-established as a "bride of Christ." I've heard that
this attribution of the Mystic Marriage scene was a confusion with
Catherine of Siena, but the earlier dates of the art seem to contradict
that statement. In fact, every piece of art I know with the "Mystic
Marriage" scene is presumed to show Catherine of Alexandria. So I don't
know why some references insist that it's "supposed" to be Catherine of
Siena.

The lady here has a crown, which is one of CofA's attributes, but there's
no sword or wheel, so it remains uncertain. However, it looks a lot more
like CofA than CofS. CofS is typically shown with a lily, sometimes a
heart and/or a book, and/or a crown of thorns, none of which are here.
More important, CofS is usually shown in Dominican habit, and CofA in
fashionable royal dress, and this is a lot closer to the latter.

Anyway, if it's a deliberate archaism, the costume is modeled after
earlier artworks (and probably significantly changed in details). However,
I wouldn't be surprised if this is 14th c., and St. Catherine of
Alexandria, re-attributed to Catherine of Siena. Which means it's just
saint's costume and Italian, and could be anywhere on the continuum of
real <--> fanciful!

I notice the stripes on the red tippets, which could be meant to indicate
fur piecing... or could just be stripes, which I've never seen on tippets,
but hey, it's Italian. The little bit of flip side we see on the left
tippet shows an intriguing combination of white and red, which might mean
that these are not separate-material "band-and-streamer" tippets, but
sleeve extensions (pendant sleeves) from the white dress, with a
red-striped or fur lining.

The wide over-the-hand cuffs are quite intriguing, and might be a clue
that we're dealing with a late-15th or 16th c. version of archaic dress,
with mix-and-match features. But I would have to see other local images of
dress to know whether this is a regionalism. I know very very little about
Italian variants. They make my head ache.

--Robin



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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 23:05:24 -0800
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On Feb 16, 2006, at 9:29 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> On Friday 17 February 2006 12:11 am, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
> [snip]
>
>> There isn't so much a "problem" with the neckline as that it's a
>> rather unusually shaped neckline.  The particular angle of the
>> photograph is also not very good for seeing what's going on with the
>> neck.  Asymmetric "side-opening" necklines are quite common among the
>> surviving garments of this era (what few there are).
>
> I'm familiar with asymmetric necklines (the color photograph on  
> Cynthia
> Virtue's page to which I referred the original poster has one, in  
> fact).  But
> the black and white photo in question appears to have an extra band  
> appearing
> in the middle of what looks like a *symmetrical* neckline.

Yeah, the decorative band has a deep "V" on the (viewer's) left, but  
then the right side of the "V" merges into a squared-off U on the  
right.  The "U" part is deeper and is the actual opening.  One  
problem in interpreting this garment is that -- if I'm remembering  
correctly -- the decorative bands are the only original elements and  
have been re-applied to different bodies over the years.

Heather

--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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> Perhaps a very faint hint of color of purple/ blue (periwinkle?) for the
> dress material with eggshell white bows and underskirt.
> If you have the split, were you thinking of a quilted underskirt or
> leaving
> it plan?

For a split skirt, I would decorate the underskirt or make it a different
color.  I was thinking of making a quilted underskirt but it may just be a
petticoat that I can use later with a pet-en-l'air jacket or something
like that.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)
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 http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4&k1=6&k2=1

> The lady here has a crown, which is one of CofA's attributes, but there's
> no sword or wheel, so it remains uncertain.

Actually there is a wheel, at her feet (between her and the Madonna) it's
that brown object with  the spikes;) I think it's depicting the wheel edge
on.

So It's CoA.

> Anyway, if it's a deliberate archaism, the costume is modeled after
> earlier artworks (and probably significantly changed in details). However,
> I wouldn't be surprised if this is 14th c., and St. Catherine of
> Alexandria, re-attributed to Catherine of Siena. Which means it's just
> saint's costume and Italian, and could be anywhere on the continuum of
> real <--> fanciful!

Yup:) The faces remind me a lot of the other 14thC Italian art, but it could
also have been altered at some stage? Anyone have any idea what the
blue-black zigzag shapes on her sleeve are (the one furthest from us and
held up for the ring)?

It's a very cool image and fits in with what I have seen of the 14thC
Italian stuff. By that I mean: it's weird and all kinds of pretty;)

michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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OK, so I'm showing my ignorance, but why "side-opening" necklines? I'd think
they'd be more difficult than symmetrical, center front openings.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 9:30 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German


On Friday 17 February 2006 12:11 am, Heather Rose Jones wrote: [snip]

> There isn't so much a "problem" with the neckline as that it's a 
> rather unusually shaped neckline.  The particular angle of the 
> photograph is also not very good for seeing what's going on with the 
> neck.  Asymmetric "side-opening" necklines are quite common among the 
> surviving garments of this era (what few there are).

I'm familiar with asymmetric necklines (the color photograph on Cynthia 
Virtue's page to which I referred the original poster has one, in fact).
But 
the black and white photo in question appears to have an extra band
appearing 
in the middle of what looks like a *symmetrical* neckline.  

Definitely a bad camera angle, that.  :-)

--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] colonial
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 00:31:01 -0800
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Or maybe, the underskirt opposite of the main body of the dress, so if the
dress is light with dark flowers, make the underskirt dark with light
flowers.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Diana Habra
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 11:24 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] colonial



> Perhaps a very faint hint of color of purple/ blue (periwinkle?) for 
> the dress material with eggshell white bows and underskirt. If you 
> have the split, were you thinking of a quilted underskirt or leaving
> it plan?

For a split skirt, I would decorate the underskirt or make it a different
color.  I was thinking of making a quilted underskirt but it may just be a
petticoat that I can use later with a pet-en-l'air jacket or something like
that.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)
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On Fri, 17 Feb 2006, michaela wrote:

>  http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4&k1=6&k2=1
> 
> > The lady here has a crown, which is one of CofA's attributes, but there's
> > no sword or wheel, so it remains uncertain.
> 
> Actually there is a wheel, at her feet (between her and the Madonna) it's
> that brown object with  the spikes;) I think it's depicting the wheel edge
> on.

Oh by golly, that is a wheel. I think my brain said "pillow with fringe"
or something and then I stopped looking at it, before I started thinking
"where's the wheel?"

Now, if it had been ROUND...

> Yup:) The faces remind me a lot of the other 14thC Italian art, but it
> could also have been altered at some stage? Anyone have any idea what
> the blue-black zigzag shapes on her sleeve are (the one furthest from
> us and held up for the ring)?

The underlayer beneath decaying paint? Seriously, I have no clue.

> It's a very cool image and fits in with what I have seen of the 14thC
> Italian stuff. By that I mean: it's weird and all kinds of pretty;)

That's a really good way of putting it!

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fancy Dress Described
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Debenham & Freebody were fashion designers for the elite of England.  I have 
a few of their fashion plates in our Library.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for 1850-60 muff pattern
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Hi,

A friend of mine is looking for a 1850-60 muff pattern.
Something like this
http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/forever.htm
But I've read that this pattern is discontinued.
She really likes the draught-stoppers.

Greetings,
       Deredere

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Yeah!  I am so glad to see someone else doing these types of gowns.  In 
doing "A Suitable Gown for Her Majesty"  *http://tinyurl.com/87qbb *
we also chose to put the corset front under the farthingale.  Now the 
front of this farthingale is flat.  In my research I found some wheels 
depicted as being rather sharply tillted to the back but more often they 
were not, which made me wonder if it wasn't the artists way of trying to 
show what was going on behind in portraiture.   Many of the effigies 
with smaller wheels are pretty flat, which gives a prettty good 3D idea 
of what they looked like. Ninya Mikhalia on the other hand looks like 
she places most of her's on the outside.   
http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/wheelfarthingales.html 

I didn't care much for Hunisett's wheel construction.  I made several 
up, but chose to go with Ninya's way of doing them.  Unfortunaely when 
doing a flat front the tension isn't great enough to keep the fabric 
nice and taut, so I chose to cover the cotuil with a little batting and 
the silk. 

I look forward to seeing more of your work!

Sg



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Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 07:47:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: [h-cost] colonial
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Or maybe, the underskirt opposite of the main body of the dress, so if the
> dress is light with dark flowers, make the underskirt dark with light
> flowers.
> Sharon

Wow...I hadn't thought of that and it would probably work really well! 
Thanks for the idea :~>

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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In a message dated 2/17/2006 10:46:35 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dch@inreach.com writes:

the  underskirt opposite of the main body of the dress, so if the
> dress is  light with dark flowers, make the underskirt dark with light
>  flowers.



Along these lines, if you find a brocade you like, you can often use the  
opposite face of the brocade for a usually rather subtle contrast.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Bristish Costume Book
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 11:36:23 -0500
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Penny, I saw the 'Men's" book yesterday at ABE bookseller.  I forget the
price but there it was!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 7:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Victorian Bristish Costume Book


> I have this book and been working on getting it on my website for the past
> two years.  Even though some of the costumes are not period correct, they
> are the costumes that people during this time wore to fancy dressed balls,
> plays, etc.  We have about half of the book's descriptions typed.  I can't
> pull the book at this moment to quote from it. But going on memory, it was
> written or supported by a large costume house in London.  When I am
working
> on the book again, I will pull the credits and provide more information.
> Kathleen once I have the book online, I will loan it to you.
>
> This book on eBay is *one* edition of the book and the costumes are for
> women and children.  There were a few editions.  I think the last one was
> published in 1900.  I have been looking for the menwear edition of this
book
> for a few years.  I found one dealer who had the men's costume book, but
he
> was in England and the price and shipping was more than I had at the time.
>
> The price of this book is high.  I have seen it extremely high  You can
find
> some tattered editions at antique bookstores online.  My copy is in good
> condition.
>
> Queen Victoria was fascinated with historically inspired costume balls and
a
> lot of research went behind the costumes worn to them.  I have been
working
> on a few articles about these balls.  One reason for the balls was to give
a
> boost to the economy of England in the 1840s & 1850s.  There is a really
> good article about her balls in an 1980s Costume Society of America's
> journal "Dress."  The article goes into more detail about this.
>
> Kathleen, your 1868 book, The Corset and the Crinoline, will have three
more
> chapters (5-7) online within a week or so.  Watch for the announcements.
>
> Penny E. Ladnier
> Owner,
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose
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> I had thought that Margo Anderson was working on some Elizabethan
children's
> patterns for her next major patterns but I guess I was thinking of another
> history pattern company.

No, I'm working on children's (and adult's) Irish patterns, which should be
on the market in about another month.  I may consider doing English
Elizabethan children's patterns if the response to the Irish ones is
favorable.

Margo

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060217115137.4180F319114@pelian.kabelfoon.nl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for 1850-60 muff pattern
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 11:41:07 -0500
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My mom made one for me when I was younger. She had me to cross my arms, with 
wrists lined up. She measured elbow to elbow. She cut a rectangle of 
material that length. She lined it with velvet and batting. The lining was 
1.73 times the length of the outter material. She sewed the outside material 
in 2 sections with a 3 inch opening on the long side ( ______     ______). 
She stitched the whole lenght of the lining on long side. She attached the 
linng to the ends, sewed it and turned the whole thing. She stitched the 
lining to the open hole in the ootter material so it did not pull out when 
hands were removed. Last, the opening was stitched closed. She attached a 
satin ribbon for the neck strap. I loved it and had it until it fell apart.
I hope you can follow what I said. I'm a visual person and pictures help to 
see it better.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 6:51 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Looking for 1850-60 muff pattern


> Hi,
>
> A friend of mine is looking for a 1850-60 muff pattern.
> Something like this
> http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/forever.htm
> But I've read that this pattern is discontinued.
> She really likes the draught-stoppers.
>
> Greetings,
>       Deredere
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Am Civil War
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And in Virginia and even sometime in the Carolinas I have heard it referred to as "The Late Unpleasantness" even though it got NASTY in the Carolinas.  Read Cold mountain, although a novel, much of that was taken from true occurances.
   
  And don't fall into the trap of " they were so poor...Undersupplied...  whatever".  I've heard a story that the state of Georgia ended the was with so much surplus uniforms, they were still giving it out to German Prisoners of war in the 1940s as well as clothing the prisoners in the state pen.  True?  But I hope I'm not repeating urban ledgends
   
  But again, it all depends.  For just a costume, anything can go.  There are a lot of pictures on line and reenactor units that post their reqirements for uniforms.  A few minutes surfing reenactors or units-Civil War-American might give you a good idea of how to go.  Some of the more authentic, who know way more than I do turn out some georgeous uniforms, and units look uniform, athough not all exactly alike.
   
  18c Mia, who still likes the American Civil War

		
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Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/16/06 11:56:53 PM GMT Standard Time, 
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
> 
> 
>>The problem with CW uniforms, in the south especially, is that 
>>a lot of men went to war with whatever clothing their wife sent them 
>>with.
> 
> 
> Sorry, but that's untrue, although it's an incredibly commonly believed myth, 
> and one of my pet hates about re-enactment.  


Ah, thanks. My source seems to be very out of date, then. I'd read that 
many uniforms were made at home to army specs, which accounted for a 
certain amount of variance in cut and appearance among the troops.


Dawn

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Please forgive my cross-post (but do feel free to forward as you see
fit)

Hi folks.  I don't know if any of you outside Meridies know about the
old SCA_Fabric-Finders list (or how many of you need Yet Another Yahoo
List ...).  It's been taken over by spammers, so we decided to start a
new list -- and make it SCA-wide since so many of us buy fabric online 
The group is SCA_Fabric-n-Notions
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA_Fabric-n-Notions
and it's for finding and *buying* fabric -- whatever the source.
Whether it's something from your own personal stash, your business, or
your favorite brick-and-morter store or e-store -- this is the place to
be!

It *is* moderated (funny, that), so if I don't recognize your name, and
you don't provide enough information in your "why I want to join your
group" I"ll email you and ask!  (and probably beg forgiveness if I don't
recognize your name!)

I mention the SCA because that's where I play; but I know that others of
you don't -- please don't let that stop you.  Searching for historically
accurate fibers is something that we all have to deal with.

C'mon over and play.
Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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In a message dated 2/17/2006 12:45:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

My  source seems to be very out of date, then. I'd read that 
many uniforms  were made at home to army specs, which accounted for a 
certain amount of  variance in cut and appearance among the troops.



***************
 
This is true.....just not as true as they'd like for you to think.  It's not 
the rule.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Am Civil War
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In a message dated 2/17/2006 12:45:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com writes:

And  don't fall into the trap of " they were so poor...Undersupplied...   
whatever".  I've heard a story that the state of Georgia ended the was  with so 
much surplus uniforms, they were still giving it out to German  Prisoners of 
war in the 1940s as well as clothing the prisoners in the state  pen.  True?  
But I hope I'm not repeating urban  ledgends



********************
 
 
I find this hard to believe since by the early 1900s, Civil War stuff was  
already treasured....especially in the South.
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 20:11:15 +0100
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Hi Cynthia,
No no, sorry i take my words back. I really have misunderstanded this. I 
didnt realise that you could wear a bumroll without to tye it to the bodice, 
sorry...........
As said i only made one dress of this period many years ago, it was for a 
danser and she had no bumroll for this dress. But i would make a small 
bumroll if i made one today...............

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 3:04 AM
Subject: re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers


> >I think some of you might have misunderstanded my explanations to this.
>>I was not reffering to the movie picture costumes, but the cavallier style
>>fashion for women. With the high waists.
>>The reason why i want the bumroll to be laced to a bodice is that the 
>>dress
>>waistline is so high over the natural waistline, that it simply couldnt be
>>tied arround so high, without slipping down emediately.
>
>>Bjarne
>
> I think I understood just fine.  My Stuart gown is suitably high
> waisted. With my bumme sitting on my hips, the 4" (10cm) diameter
> bumme raises my waist considerably. There are only 6" betw my waist
> line and corseted bustline.  Perhaps the lovely ladies that you dress
> are much taller & long-waisted than I.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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In a message dated 2/17/2006 12:37:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Joannah@sluggy.net writes:

Is it  just me, or does anyone else think that someone had a go at remodeling 
it to  suit a much later fashion? 



That would certainly not be uncommon.  It is extremely difficult to  find an 
18th century gown that hasn't been re-modeled, as the fabric was so  
expensive!  In fact, a curator friend of mine says that an 18th century  gown in its 
original condition would be the Holy Grail of costume finds.
 
Ann Wass
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Status: RO

Ah, thanks. My source seems to be very out of date, then. I'd read that 
many uniforms were made at home to army specs, which accounted for a 
certain amount of variance in cut and appearance among the troops.


Yes, and no, Dawn.  The uniform parts were cut out in the Depot by a tailor (much as they were in some of the northern arsenals, though the north saw more actual contract work), then the "piecework" was bundled up and frequently sent to seamstresses in the surrounding country side to assemble.  You could get quite a variation of sewing ability, but the basic cut did not vary due to being done by the tailor.

Hope this helps--

LuAnn
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060217093509.23A84E9E@dm21.mta.everyone.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 20:36:25 +0100
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Hi Joannah,
There is in fact a sack backed english weddinggown with polonaise lift ups 
in the back. Se Norah Waughs the cut of Womens Clothes. White 
satin...............

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joannah Hansen" <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial


> >--- "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Ooo...look what I found.
>>> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
>>> De
>>
>>I LOVE this website!  I know that they show the details to help sell the
>>clothing but it is AWESOME for us historical costumers that may not ever
>>get to study garments like these in person.
>>
>>Thanks so much for sharing!  I am trying to design my wedding gown which
>>will roughly be from this period and I am trying to find out all I can
>>about construction techniques.  This new colonial dress will be a big
> help.
>>
>>Diana
>
> I agree, it's a truly lovely gown. The silk is to die for.
>
> Is it just me, or does anyone else think that someone had a go at 
> remodeling it to suit a much later fashion?
>
> It certainly isn't helped by being mounted on a stand which isn't tall 
> enough, but it seems to me that the petticoat is the wrong shape - it's 
> too narrow - and something about the top ruffle doesn't look right to me. 
> Wouldn't they have repeated the lace embellishment that is above the 
> bottom ruffle? the info with the pictures says that the brocade doesn't 
> extend all the way to the back - could some of the silk have been cut 
> away, to make the petticoat less full and change the silhouette, and then 
> used to make the top ruffle?
>
> The polonaising also doesn't seem right to me. A polonaise on an English 
> robe, yes, but on a sack? I've been looking through what books I can lay 
> my hands on, and I haven't yet seen a sack-backed gown that is polonaised. 
> The polonaise also isn't deep enough.
>
> The lapels on the bodice and the front of the bodice are also don't look 
> right. The bottom of the lapels don't seem to be finished properly. They 
> don't have anywhere to go or to fit. Have they been unpicked from the 
> front of the skirt, which was then moved back, making the split down the 
> front wider?
>
> These are some pictures of the styles that this dress in its current state 
> remind me of:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837015/
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837016/
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837017/
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837019/
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837018/in/photostream/
>
> Of course, I may be completely wrong about all this. :-) ( I *really* 
> would LOVE to be able to examine this garment close up! )
>
> Any other comments?
>
> Joannah
>
> ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~
>
>
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Am Civil War
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 11:35:16 -0800
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Status: RO

Actually, there's some anecdotal evidence that original CW confederate uniforms were given out to POWs, but during WWI, not WWII.  Nobody has been able to prove it conclusively, though, to the best of my knowledge.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com<mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com> 
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 11:01 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Am Civil War



  In a message dated 2/17/2006 12:45:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
  snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com<mailto:snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com> writes:

  And  don't fall into the trap of " they were so poor...Undersupplied...   
  whatever".  I've heard a story that the state of Georgia ended the was  with so 
  much surplus uniforms, they were still giving it out to German  Prisoners of 
  war in the 1940s as well as clothing the prisoners in the state  pen.  True?  
  But I hope I'm not repeating urban  ledgends



  ********************
   
   
  I find this hard to believe since by the early 1900s, Civil War stuff was  
  already treasured....especially in the South.
  _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fancy Dress Described
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At 14:54 17/02/2006, you wrote:
>Debenham & Freebody were fashion designers for the elite of 
>England.  I have a few of their fashion plates in our Library.
>
>Penny E. Ladnier
>Owner,
>The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
>Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com


The store called Debenham's has just recently closed in Regent 
Street. I rather think that it was the last remnants of what was a 
great store. It had an expensive redesign a few years ago, but never 
quite got back to the glory days of the Victorian and Edwardian shops.

Suzi


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Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 09:35:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
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>--- "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com> wrote:
>
>> Ooo...look what I found.
>> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
>> De
>
>I LOVE this website!  I know that they show the details to help sell the
>clothing but it is AWESOME for us historical costumers that may not ever
>get to study garments like these in person.
>
>Thanks so much for sharing!  I am trying to design my wedding gown which
>will roughly be from this period and I am trying to find out all I can
>about construction techniques.  This new colonial dress will be a big
help.
>
>Diana

I agree, it's a truly lovely gown. The silk is to die for.

Is it just me, or does anyone else think that someone had a go at remodeling it to suit a much later fashion? 

It certainly isn't helped by being mounted on a stand which isn't tall enough, but it seems to me that the petticoat is the wrong shape - it's too narrow - and something about the top ruffle doesn't look right to me. Wouldn't they have repeated the lace embellishment that is above the bottom ruffle? the info with the pictures says that the brocade doesn't extend all the way to the back - could some of the silk have been cut away, to make the petticoat less full and change the silhouette, and then used to make the top ruffle?  

The polonaising also doesn't seem right to me. A polonaise on an English robe, yes, but on a sack? I've been looking through what books I can lay my hands on, and I haven't yet seen a sack-backed gown that is polonaised. The polonaise also isn't deep enough. 

The lapels on the bodice and the front of the bodice are also don't look right. The bottom of the lapels don't seem to be finished properly. They don't have anywhere to go or to fit. Have they been unpicked from the front of the skirt, which was then moved back, making the split down the front wider?

These are some pictures of the styles that this dress in its current state remind me of:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837015/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837016/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837017/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837019/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837018/in/photostream/

Of course, I may be completely wrong about all this. :-) ( I *really* would LOVE to be able to examine this garment close up! )

Any other comments?

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~





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Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 19:07:07 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
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At 17:35 17/02/2006, you wrote:
> >--- "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Ooo...look what I found.
> >> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
> >> De
> >
> >I LOVE this website!  I know that they show the details to help sell the
> >clothing but it is AWESOME for us historical costumers that may not ever
> >get to study garments like these in person.
> >
> >Thanks so much for sharing!  I am trying to design my wedding gown which
> >will roughly be from this period and I am trying to find out all I can
> >about construction techniques.  This new colonial dress will be a big
>help.
> >
> >Diana
>
>I agree, it's a truly lovely gown. The silk is to die for.
>
>Is it just me, or does anyone else think that someone had a go at 
>remodeling it to suit a much later fashion?
>
>It certainly isn't helped by being mounted on a stand which isn't 
>tall enough, but it seems to me that the petticoat is the wrong 
>shape - it's too narrow - and something about the top ruffle doesn't 
>look right to me. Wouldn't they have repeated the lace embellishment 
>that is above the bottom ruffle? the info with the pictures says 
>that the brocade doesn't extend all the way to the back - could some 
>of the silk have been cut away, to make the petticoat less full and 
>change the silhouette, and then used to make the top ruffle?
>
>The polonaising also doesn't seem right to me. A polonaise on an 
>English robe, yes, but on a sack? I've been looking through what 
>books I can lay my hands on, and I haven't yet seen a sack-backed 
>gown that is polonaised. The polonaise also isn't deep enough.

Regarding the polonaising only - not had time to check out the other 
stuff - there are at least two polonaised sacks in collections that I 
have seen, one in Bath, and one in the Museum of London. Also I am 
sure there are many sketches/fashion plates showing this, usually in 
the 1770's. I think the French artist Moreau le Jeune shows this, but 
they may be retroussee dans les poches, which gives a similar look.

>The lapels on the bodice and the front of the bodice are also don't 
>look right. The bottom of the lapels don't seem to be finished 
>properly. They don't have anywhere to go or to fit.

They often don't, according to "Costume in Detail" by Nancy 
Bradfield, unless I have "read" the pictures wrongly. They frequently 
just stop, in mid air as it were.

>Have they been unpicked from the front of the skirt, which was then 
>moved back, making the split down the front wider?
>
>These are some pictures of the styles that this dress in its current 
>state remind me of:
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837015/
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837016/
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837017/
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837019/
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/100837018/in/photostream/
>
>Of course, I may be completely wrong about all this. :-) ( I 
>*really* would LOVE to be able to examine this garment close up! )


Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for 1850-60 muff pattern
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 13:00:20 -0500
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I have some muffs from this period and they are made thus:
Make 2  tubes of muslin cut about 13/14" x21", one should be about 2" less
than the other.Stitch one end together and make a 3/4" chenille for elastic,
and fill with feathers (or you may opt for heavy poly quilt filler)Stitch
the open end; make a chenille as in the other end .
(you may wish to sew satin facings of about 6" oh each end of the inner bag
as the lining might show.
Cut and thread 2 pieces of elastic about 10" in the ends
Make a second (well, third) tube of fur, chenille, or other fabric of your
choice about 1" less than the tube already assembled, and cover the inner
piece.
Add a handle on one end, of silk braid or rope.
Embellish with tassels to taste.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 6:51 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Looking for 1850-60 muff pattern


> Hi,
>
> A friend of mine is looking for a 1850-60 muff pattern.
> Something like this
> http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/forever.htm
> But I've read that this pattern is discontinued.
> She really likes the draught-stoppers.
>
> Greetings,
>        Deredere
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] colonial
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Diana said,
> For a split skirt, I would decorate the underskirt or make it a different
> color.  I was thinking of making a quilted underskirt but it may just be a
> petticoat that I can use later with a pet-en-l'air jacket or something
> like that.


     It depends on how close to actual 18th century you want to make it,
and then what social class, time of day, etc.

     More formal open-front gowns have a petticoat of the same fabric,
possibly decorated with self-fabric ruching and flounces (same as the
gown).

     A petticoat of a different fabric is more of an undress look - your
serviceable wool gown is not as likely to have the same fabric for
the petticoat.

     Quilted petticoats are lovely, or you can use a Marseilles cloth (a
double weave) which was also done in the 18th century.  It's also not
a formal or evening type of look.

     Generally a lady would decorate the stomacher or neckline of the gown
to draw the eye up, rather than use a different color petticoat which
might draw the eye away from the face and neckline.

     -Carol

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  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: civil war uniforms
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 2/17/2006 12:45:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

My source seems to be very out of date, then. I'd read that 
many uniforms were made at home to army specs, which accounted for a 
certain amount of variance in cut and appearance among the troops.



***************

This is true.....just not as true as they'd like for you to think. It's not 
the rule.


*****************************************
   
  And think in terms of the early days of outsourcing, factories putting out piecework to women in a cottage industry, making uniforms to the specs provided by the gov.  At least in the North.  And there were factories too.  But not necessarily for their family members in most cases.  To my mind more like lace makers or Ayreshire white work.  (again I'm at work, and if citations/examples or spelling are wrong, forgive and correct.  I'm not being specific, just blathering.) 
   
  And the varience would be [------]   as opposed to [--------------------------------]  
  In the Rev war uniforms were all hand made, but they were very uniform.  
   
  18c Mia in Charlotte, hoping for one winter storm, maybe this weekend.



			
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Bristish Costume Book
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Thanks Kathleen.  I just ordered it.  There is one more copy on abebooks, 
but for a higher price at $134.  It is also in England.  The one I got was 
in a U.S. store, so I can get it quicker and less shipping costs.  You made 
my day.

The dealer I purchased the book from is http://www.goodridgebooks.com/ . 
The salesperson says they have a large fashion & costume section.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose
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Kool!
De

-----Original Message-----
> I had thought that Margo Anderson was working on some Elizabethan
children's
> patterns for her next major patterns but I guess I was thinking of another
> history pattern company.

No, I'm working on children's (and adult's) Irish patterns, which should be
on the market in about another month.  I may consider doing English
Elizabethan children's patterns if the response to the Irish ones is
favorable.

Margo

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Bristish Costume Book
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 17:14:07 -0500
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Looking forward to seeing this in print or on line!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Bristish Costume Book


> Thanks Kathleen.  I just ordered it.  There is one more copy on abebooks,
> but for a higher price at $134.  It is also in England.  The one I got was
> in a U.S. store, so I can get it quicker and less shipping costs.  You
made
> my day.
>
> The dealer I purchased the book from is http://www.goodridgebooks.com/ .
> The salesperson says they have a large fashion & costume section.
>
> Penny E. Ladnier
> Owner,
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose
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Margo, would you send me a signed book plate to go in the books I have? I 
bought both of the Patterns of Fashion books.
If I had you email, I'd send this personally.
I'm still pondering on my design before I put scissors to the fabric. 
Eventually, I'll have to do that first cut. Then I know I will get it done. 
I've chosen a design of Elenora de Toledo dress. I like the Valois portrait 
but one at a time. I can always make the next one like that.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <lists@margospatterns.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose


>
>> I had thought that Margo Anderson was working on some Elizabethan
> children's
>> patterns for her next major patterns but I guess I was thinking of 
>> another
>> history pattern company.
>
> No, I'm working on children's (and adult's) Irish patterns, which should 
> be
> on the market in about another month.  I may consider doing English
> Elizabethan children's patterns if the response to the Irish ones is
> favorable.
>
> Margo
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 17th Century chemise
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 23:34:15 +0100
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Hi,
The baroque chemises would have angle lenght sleaves, pleated or gathered to 
a small cuff, and also a frill at the end of the cuff. The neckline is wide, 
follows the cut of the dress.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 10:54 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: 17th Century chemise


> Hi all -- 
>
> This is for my pirate costume again. What did chemises look like in the 
> 1690s? Were they any different from the Elizabethan ones?
>
> Thanks!
> Tea Rose
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Hi all -- 
 
This is for my pirate costume again. What did chemises look like in the 1690s? Were they any different from the Elizabethan ones? 
 
Thanks!
Tea Rose
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Amadeus
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Yeah, surely the characters really existed - last summer I've been to a town called Oloron St.Marie, where Porthos was born. But the story has, of course, nothing to do with truth.

Carmen Beaudry <moreplentyn@earthlink.net> wrote:  
> Speaking of....3 Musketeers is about real people too....the King of France
> and the Duke of Buckingham were real people.... but no one believes Dumas'
> story is true. Perhaps because the main characters are not real.
(snip)

Actually, d'Artagnan was a real person, and was a member, eventually 
captain, of the King's Musketeers. However, the historical Charles de 
Batz-Castlemore d'Artagnan was born somewhere around 1625 and so most of his 
exploits were during the reign of Louis XIV, not Louis XIII. Athos, Porthos 
and Aramis were also historic characters, but there is no record of them 
ever meeting d'Artagnan, and as a matter of fact I believe that Athos was 
killed in a duel around the time d'Artagnan was born.

I have friends who last year visited the part of Gascony that contains the 
town of Artagnan. The town museum is full of the information about the 
historical figure. There was also a rather fanciful biography written in 
the early 18th cen. that is where Dumas got the idea for his stories, but he 
most certainly played fast and loose with the time period and other facts. 
For instance, Cardinal Richelieu, far from being the villian portrayed in 
Dumas' stories, was arguably one of the greatest statesmen in France's 
history.

Melusine
(the Three Musketeers may be why I fell in love with this time period, but 
my research sure didn't stop there) 

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Subject: [h-cost] Byzantine Dress
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Has anyone heard about this Byzantine Dress book, or its author, Jennifer Ball?
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1403967008/103-0624918-7671817?v=glance&n=283155
 
It seems to have just been published. I sure wish I could afford it, although it's slightly later than my precise period of interest. 
 
Tea Rose
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] SCA_Fabric-n-Notions
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On Fri, 17 Feb 2006, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> Hi folks.  I don't know if any of you outside Meridies know about the
> old SCA_Fabric-Finders list (or how many of you need Yet Another Yahoo
> List ...).  It's been taken over by spammers, so we decided to start a
> new list -- and make it SCA-wide since so many of us buy fabric online 
> The group is SCA_Fabric-n-Notions
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA_Fabric-n-Notions
> and it's for finding and *buying* fabric -- whatever the source.

At this point it's also worth noting three other groups that serve
essentially the same function:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/garb4sale
	for fabric and supplies, not just garb, but SCA-focused

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/swapsell
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumetrader/
	both of these for anything costume-related, set up separately by
	h-cost people

Since no one has yet made the effort to merge any of these groups, I just
post to all of them when I have things to sell. Now it looks like I've got
another one to duplicate on.

--Robin

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Hello
Does anyone still have digst 146? I've been having
mail troubles again so would appreciate it if someone,
anyone, could forward it to me.
Cheers,
Katherine

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annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 23:19:26 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 17th Century chemise
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At 21:54 17/02/2006, you wrote:
>Hi all --
>
>This is for my pirate costume again. What did chemises look like in 
>the 1690s? Were they any different from the Elizabethan ones?
>
>Thanks!
>Tea Rose


There is a pattern for  a 17th century Italian chemise in the booklet 
"Cut my Cote" by Dorothy K. Burnham. It is much, much fuller than the 
Elizabethan/early Stuart  chemises I saw at the Museum of London, and 
the one that  Janet Arnold patterns in Waffen und Kostumkunde. It is 
similar to those very full ones shown in many 16th and 17th century 
paintings, where the ladies are dresses in chemises that fall off 
their shoulders.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 17th Century chemise
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Brother i bummed again, sorry not angle length of cause but elbow length.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 17th Century chemise


> Hi,
> The baroque chemises would have angle lenght sleaves, pleated or gathered 
> to a small cuff, and also a frill at the end of the cuff. The neckline is 
> wide, follows the cut of the dress.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <tearoses@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 10:54 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: 17th Century chemise
>
>
>> Hi all -- 
>>
>> This is for my pirate costume again. What did chemises look like in the 
>> 1690s? Were they any different from the Elizabethan ones?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Tea Rose
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 19:59:51 -0400
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There are two gowns here in our collection at the Nova Scotia, made from the 
same, or similar fabrics, one is in it's original condition, the other has 
been remade to the end of the 18thC fashions...very cool.

It is my hope to one day take patterns from them both, you know, someday 
when I have a bit of time! ;-)

Kelly in NS
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial


>
> In a message dated 2/17/2006 12:37:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> Joannah@sluggy.net writes:
>
> Is it  just me, or does anyone else think that someone had a go at 
> remodeling
> it to  suit a much later fashion?
>
>
>
> That would certainly not be uncommon.  It is extremely difficult to  find 
> an
> 18th century gown that hasn't been re-modeled, as the fabric was so
> expensive!  In fact, a curator friend of mine says that an 18th century 
> gown in its
> original condition would be the Holy Grail of costume finds.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 22:00:30 -0500
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On Friday 17 February 2006 2:05 am, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
> On Feb 16, 2006, at 9:29 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> > [snip]

> > I'm familiar with asymmetric necklines (the color photograph on
> > Cynthia Virtue's page to which I referred the original poster has one, in
> > fact).  But the black and white photo in question appears to have an extra 
> > band appearing
> > in the middle of what looks like a *symmetrical* neckline.
>
> Yeah, the decorative band has a deep "V" on the (viewer's) left, but
> then the right side of the "V" merges into a squared-off U on the
> right.  The "U" part is deeper and is the actual opening.  One
> problem in interpreting this garment is that -- if I'm remembering
> correctly -- the decorative bands are the only original elements and
> have been re-applied to different bodies over the years.

I didn't know that.  If that's the case, it would explain the oddity pretty 
well--it always looked to me like an out-of-place band of trim anyway.  
Thanks for the comment.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose
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> Margo, would you send me a signed book plate to go in the books I have? I
> bought both of the Patterns of Fashion books.

I think you may be confusing me with Janet Arnold, author of the "Patterns
of Fashion" books, who is sadly no longer with us.

I'm known for my sewing pattern packages for historical costumes, which do
include extremely detailed instruction manuals, but they're not on the level
of those books, which represent a life of scholarship that all the rest of
us draw on.

If I'm reading this wrong and you actually want signed bookplates for your
pattern manuals, I'd be honored to oblige;  just send me your mailing adress
at margo@margospatterns.com.

Margo

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)
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I looked at the images and don't know what "tippets" are. Please explain. I 
googled it and found sites with shawls and scarves. What in the image is a 
tippet?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 11:21 PM
Subject: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)


>
> Hey Robin!
>
>>From the SCA garb list ...
>> Can I forward this to the H-Costume list where
>> Robin Netherton hangs out?  She's way interested
>> in tippets.
>> Jerusha
>
> Sure. Please tell her it was pointed out by John Dillion on the Medieval
> Religion List. I'm sure she'll recognise his name.
>
> Hrothny
>
> A fresco on the wall of the hexagonal baptistery of San Giovanni
> Battista (said to be originally ninth-cent., with fifteenth- and
> sixteenth-century frescoes) showing the marriage of St. Catherine of
> Sienna.
>
> http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4&k1=6&k2=1
> =======
>
> It's Italian, but dig those tippets!
>
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)
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Quoting Becky <zeartiste@hotmail.com>:

> I looked at the images and don't know what "tippets" are. Please 
> explain. I googled it and found sites with shawls and scarves. What 
> in the image is a tippet?

See those "streamers" coming from her upper arm?  Those are tippets.
If you do a google *image* search [put tippets in your search box, get
your results, and then click on the image link above the search box]
you'll get a page that shows some other gowns with tippets --
including this paperdoll site
http://www.gallimauphry.com/PD/gawain/gawain.html
and this Ready-To-Wear-Garb site
http://www.revivalclothing.com/catpages/cat_womenssilkwardrobe.htm
her tippets are white, and look like an add-on, but Robin's research
indicates that this probably isn't the case.

Susan

>>
>> http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4&k1=6&k2=1
>> =======
>>
>> It's Italian, but dig those tippets!
>>

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Byzantine Dress
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 09:32:50 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Feb 17, 2006, at 2:39 PM, tearoses@aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone heard about this Byzantine Dress book, or its author,  
> Jennifer Ball?
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1403967008/103-0624918-7671817? 
> v=glance&n=283155
>
> It seems to have just been published. I sure wish I could afford  
> it, although it's slightly later than my precise period of interest.

It's published by Palgrave, who tend to be well-represented on my  
bookshelves among academic publishers.  I would assume that this is a  
bookification of someone's dissertation.  (It's gone on my mental   
list of books to check out in the dealers' room at Kalamazoo -- I  
don't know that I'd buy it sight unseen.)

Heather

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 12:34:29 -0500
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Thanks. The search results I got didn't fit into the images. I saw the 
sleeve drapes and didn't know what they were called.
I've been learning quite a bit from the discussion boards and costume 
constructions.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian 
fresco)


> Quoting Becky <zeartiste@hotmail.com>:
>
>> I looked at the images and don't know what "tippets" are. Please explain. 
>> I googled it and found sites with shawls and scarves. What in the image 
>> is a tippet?
>
> See those "streamers" coming from her upper arm?  Those are tippets.
> If you do a google *image* search [put tippets in your search box, get
> your results, and then click on the image link above the search box]
> you'll get a page that shows some other gowns with tippets --
> including this paperdoll site
> http://www.gallimauphry.com/PD/gawain/gawain.html
> and this Ready-To-Wear-Garb site
> http://www.revivalclothing.com/catpages/cat_womenssilkwardrobe.htm
> her tippets are white, and look like an add-on, but Robin's research
> indicates that this probably isn't the case.
>
> Susan
>
>>>
>>> http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4&k1=6&k2=1
>>> =======
>>>
>>> It's Italian, but dig those tippets!
>>>
>
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
>
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And while we're talking Italian Tippets .....  :-)


I've got another picture for you, Robin.   I just had to get it scanned
-- and now seemed like a good time to do it!

http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/milano_ExpulsionJoachim150.jpg

these women are spectators, so I don't know how much the Special Garb
rule applies here, but .....


The Italian GFD frequently has this sort of "inverted scoop" neckline --
I'm not exactly sure what you'd call it!

some frescos from the Runklestein Castle
http://www.myblog.de/costumes/page/86416
although it's not as evident on those gowns

-- and think of those two with the funny panel down the front
http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giottino/pieta.jpg
http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giovanni/milano/birth.jpg
both of whom have that

others include

http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/italian_MussacchioPl46.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/dlmqd
http://tinyurl.com/b2te7
and *she* has an off-center front-opening gown!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German
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> On Friday 17 February 2006 12:11 am, Heather Rose Jones wrote: [snip]
>
>> There isn't so much a "problem" with the neckline as that it's a
>> rather unusually shaped neckline.  The particular angle of the
>> photograph is also not very good for seeing what's going on with the
>> neck.  Asymmetric "side-opening" necklines are quite common among the
>> surviving garments of this era (what few there are).

On Feb 17, 2006, at 12:29 AM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:
> OK, so I'm showing my ignorance, but why "side-opening" necklines?  
> I'd think
> they'd be more difficult than symmetrical, center front openings.
> Sharon
>

What follows is largely off-the-cuff speculation, but the answer is  
most likely to lie in how these openings developed historically.  The  
most common neck opening configuration of the Roman Empire and sub- 
Roman era was a horizontal slit, sometimes with slight dishing on the  
front side of the opening.  In garments woven in one piece on wide  
vertical looms, this slit could be created during the weaving  
complete with selveges (on the loom, it would be positioned  
vertically during weaving).

Modifications to this neckline style in the early medieval period  
include a lot of things other than center-front slits, and seem to  
have developed from different motivations and for different  
purposes.  Examples include:

Narrowing the opening-as-worn by fastening the front and back edges  
together closer to the (wearer's) neck, as we see in the 8th century  
tunic associated with St. Ebbo, where there is a button-and-loop  
closure on each shoulder.

A double layer of fabric in the body of the garment, with vertical  
slits in the layers on alternate sides of the neck, each fastening at  
the top, so that when closed the inner and outer fabrics overlap and  
there's no direct "hole" from the outside to the inside of the  
garment.  This is seen in the very detailed technical drawings of the  
11th c. Danish "Viborg shirt" and also appears to be the underlying  
construction in the 12th c. alb of William II of SIcily (another  
garment where the decorative parts are original but the garment has  
been re-made at various times).

If you visualize enlarged neck openings developing from a horizontal- 
slit opening rather than a circular opening, then if you start the  
vertical slit at the side of the existing horizontal slit, you end up  
with only one "corner" to deal with, rather than the two corners you  
get if you position the vertical slit in center front.  Also, a  
number of the early side-opening necklines incorporate a decorative  
vertical band as part of the slit, and garments of the early medieval  
period often already had a vertical decorative band approximately at  
the side of the neck opening, deriving from the clavii.

Just  a few thoughts on the topic.

Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 12:44:54 -0600
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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  Byzantine Dress
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I have the book. It just came in last week and I haven't had a chance to 
read it yet. It's a small book without terribly many pictures. Not a dress 
or costume manual... much more into theory.

Beth

>Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 17:39:18 -0500
>From: tearoses@aol.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Byzantine Dress
>
>Has anyone heard about this Byzantine Dress book, or its author, Jennifer 
>Ball?
>
>http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1403967008/103-0624918-7671817?v=glance&n=283155
>
>It seems to have just been published. I sure wish I could afford it, 
>although it's slightly later than my precise period of interest.
>
>Tea Rose

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb 18 15:00:52 2006
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Subject: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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Hi,

Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
And it got a shokking salmon pink.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
I wonder if this would be right for that period.

I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.
It is a root that gives orange to red colour and was used in medieval times.
And then put in water with a little ammonia sinse orange is really not a 
colour for me.
But I am not totally sure if this is much better :-\ .
I would love to hear other opinions.

Greetings,
       Deredere


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb 18 15:08:56 2006
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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Don't know about correct for your project, but the color looks pretty good
on you!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Deredere Galbraith
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 2:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question

Hi,

Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
And it got a shokking salmon pink.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
I wonder if this would be right for that period.

I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.
It is a root that gives orange to red colour and was used in medieval times.
And then put in water with a little ammonia sinse orange is really not a 
colour for me.
But I am not totally sure if this is much better :-\ .
I would love to hear other opinions.

Greetings,
       Deredere


_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb 18 15:26:40 2006
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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I  have  to agree with Betsy.  The color is beautiful and looks
great on you.  If it were me I would go for it.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
--- "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com> wrote:
From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 14:08:33 -0600
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
Don't  know about correct for your project, but the color looks
pretty good
on you!
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Deredere Galbraith
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 2:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
Hi,
Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
And it got a shokking salmon pink.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
I wonder if this would be right for that period.
I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.
It  is  a  root that gives orange to red colour and was used in
medieval times.
And  then  put  in  water with a little ammonia sinse orange is
really not a
colour for me.
But I am not totally sure if this is much better :- .
I would love to hear other opinions.
Greetings,
Deredere
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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> Hi,
>
> Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
> And it got a shokking salmon pink.
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
> I wonder if this would be right for that period.
>
> I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.

That sounds like madder root.

> It is a root that gives orange to red colour and was used in medieval
> times.
> And then put in water with a little ammonia sinse orange is really not a
> colour for me.
> But I am not totally sure if this is much better :-\ .
> I would love to hear other opinions.

Which chemical mordant did you use?  Mordants are things like alum,
nickel, iron, and I forget the last one.  You put the mordant into the dye
bath and each chemical gives a different shade of red-orange.  You can
also pre-treat the cloth with a bath of the mordant and then dye it
separately.

You can look up which one gives a more red color and try re-dying it with
that.  There are some good books about natural dyes that you can either
order or find in your library.  And there are some places online that sell
the dye items and mordants that you would need.  Sorry I can't tell you
any specific books or websites....I haven't done natural dyeing in years!

And I agree that the orange isn't a bad color for you.....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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I think the plant you are referring to is known as "madder" in English.
I've gotten colors similar to yours in my madder dyeing.  It's pretty pH and
temperature sensitive.
I'm afraid I don't know enough about 12th century costume (and colors
thereof) to be able to tell you about the historical accuracy of the color
for that kind of gown, though. ;o(
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 12:59 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question


> Hi,
>
> Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
> And it got a shokking salmon pink.
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
> I wonder if this would be right for that period.
>
> I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.
> It is a root that gives orange to red colour and was used in medieval
times.
> And then put in water with a little ammonia sinse orange is really not a
> colour for me.
> But I am not totally sure if this is much better :-\ .
> I would love to hear other opinions.
>
> Greetings,
>        Deredere


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Quoting Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>:

> Hi,
>
> Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
> And it got a shokking salmon pink.
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
> I wonder if this would be right for that period.

I think that the color is gorgeous!

>
> I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.

Do you know what the latin name is?  I can translate!  :-S

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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In a message dated 2/18/2006 3:26:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:

And it  got a shokking salmon pink.



****************
Well, you may have been shocked, but I think the salmon pick looks divine!  
It beautiful. It doesn't look too saturated to not be period. It looks  great!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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>
> In a message dated 2/18/2006 3:26:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:
>
> And it  got a shokking salmon pink.
>
>
>
> ****************
> Well, you may have been shocked, but I think the salmon pick looks divine!
> It beautiful. It doesn't look too saturated to not be period. It looks
> great!

Uhhh...from what I have heard, they have found clothing scraps that were
hot pink in Viking burial grounds.  I believe that the they used some kind
of lichen to dye it.

So I would not assume that a "saturated" color is not period.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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Quoting Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>:

> Hi,
>
> Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
> And it got a shokking salmon pink.
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
> I wonder if this would be right for that period.
>
> I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.

google is my friend.  Looks like Rubia tinctorum -- aka Madder.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 15:34:45 -0800
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Thanks! That makes a lot of sense.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Heather Rose Jones
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 10:07 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 10th - 11th C. German


> On Friday 17 February 2006 12:11 am, Heather Rose Jones wrote: [snip]
>
>> There isn't so much a "problem" with the neckline as that it's a 
>> rather unusually shaped neckline.  The particular angle of the 
>> photograph is also not very good for seeing what's going on with the 
>> neck.  Asymmetric "side-opening" necklines are quite common among the 
>> surviving garments of this era (what few there are).

On Feb 17, 2006, at 12:29 AM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:
> OK, so I'm showing my ignorance, but why "side-opening" necklines?
> I'd think
> they'd be more difficult than symmetrical, center front openings.
> Sharon
>

What follows is largely off-the-cuff speculation, but the answer is  
most likely to lie in how these openings developed historically.  The  
most common neck opening configuration of the Roman Empire and sub- 
Roman era was a horizontal slit, sometimes with slight dishing on the  
front side of the opening.  In garments woven in one piece on wide  
vertical looms, this slit could be created during the weaving  
complete with selveges (on the loom, it would be positioned  
vertically during weaving).

Modifications to this neckline style in the early medieval period  
include a lot of things other than center-front slits, and seem to  
have developed from different motivations and for different  
purposes.  Examples include:

Narrowing the opening-as-worn by fastening the front and back edges  
together closer to the (wearer's) neck, as we see in the 8th century  
tunic associated with St. Ebbo, where there is a button-and-loop  
closure on each shoulder.

A double layer of fabric in the body of the garment, with vertical  
slits in the layers on alternate sides of the neck, each fastening at  
the top, so that when closed the inner and outer fabrics overlap and  
there's no direct "hole" from the outside to the inside of the  
garment.  This is seen in the very detailed technical drawings of the  
11th c. Danish "Viborg shirt" and also appears to be the underlying  
construction in the 12th c. alb of William II of SIcily (another  
garment where the decorative parts are original but the garment has  
been re-made at various times).

If you visualize enlarged neck openings developing from a horizontal- 
slit opening rather than a circular opening, then if you start the  
vertical slit at the side of the existing horizontal slit, you end up  
with only one "corner" to deal with, rather than the two corners you  
get if you position the vertical slit in center front.  Also, a  
number of the early side-opening necklines incorporate a decorative  
vertical band as part of the slit, and garments of the early medieval  
period often already had a vertical decorative band approximately at  
the side of the neck opening, deriving from the clavii.

Just  a few thoughts on the topic.

Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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Rose madder?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Deredere Galbraith
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 12:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question


Hi,

Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
And it got a shokking salmon pink.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
I wonder if this would be right for that period.

I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name. It is a root
that gives orange to red colour and was used in medieval times. And then put
in water with a little ammonia sinse orange is really not a 
colour for me.
But I am not totally sure if this is much better :-\ .
I would love to hear other opinions.

Greetings,
       Deredere


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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It may be a period color. Check out tapestries and/or carpets from that
time.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 1:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question


I think the plant you are referring to is known as "madder" in English. I've
gotten colors similar to yours in my madder dyeing.  It's pretty pH and
temperature sensitive. I'm afraid I don't know enough about 12th century
costume (and colors
thereof) to be able to tell you about the historical accuracy of the color
for that kind of gown, though. ;o( --Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 12:59 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question


> Hi,
>
> Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
> And it got a shokking salmon pink. 
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
> I wonder if this would be right for that period.
>
> I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name. It is a 
> root that gives orange to red colour and was used in medieval
times.
> And then put in water with a little ammonia sinse orange is really not 
> a colour for me. But I am not totally sure if this is much better :-\ 
> . I would love to hear other opinions.
>
> Greetings,
>        Deredere


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 19:48:26 -0600
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Just opinion and not an expert in the period. If you achieved it with a
period process, one can assume that it probably was available and possibly
worn in that period. In the next century you find pink and pinkish garments
in illuminations.
I would say since it is a good color on you to not dye it again. Also,
though it is a bit bright (probably from the sheen of the fabric) it is not
a shocking salmon color.
I would not wear the shade of yellow that you have there as it detracts.
What you offset this salmon with will determine whether the gown stands out
or you.

De

> And it got a shokking salmon pink.
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
> I wonder if this would be right for that period.
>
> I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.
> It is a root that gives orange to red colour and was used in medieval
times.
> And then put in water with a little ammonia sinse orange is really not a
> colour for me.
> But I am not totally sure if this is much better :-\ .
> I would love to hear other opinions.
>
> Greetings,
>        Deredere


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 20:04:11 -0600
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-----Original Message-----
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/milano_ExpulsionJoachim150.jpg

(Susan) these women are spectators, so I don't know how much the Special
Garb
rule applies here, but .....
The Italian GFD frequently has this sort of "inverted scoop" neckline --
I'm not exactly sure what you'd call it!

De - Is that trim on the hem of the dress or an underdress with a short
overdress. Left shoulder, is that a cloak which the woman has pulled around
to the right and is using it to cradle the lamb? I think that the bust may
be a factor in the arching.

(Susan)-- and think of those two with the funny panel down the front
http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giottino/pieta.jpg
http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giovanni/milano/birth.jpg   both of whom have that

De- I can not tell real well but this looks like this dress has a red front
panel with striped material for the rest of the dress.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/hitomi_gehrig/14th%20Century/Roncolo6
.gif





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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> -----Original Message-----
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/milano_ExpulsionJoachim150.jpg
>
> (Susan) these women are spectators, so I don't know how much the Special
> Garb
> rule applies here, but .....
> The Italian GFD frequently has this sort of "inverted scoop" neckline --
> I'm not exactly sure what you'd call it!
>
> De - Is that trim on the hem of the dress or an underdress with a short
> overdress. Left shoulder, is that a cloak which the woman has pulled around
> to the right and is using it to cradle the lamb? I think that the bust may
> be a factor in the arching.

I have *no* clue.  IIRC, there are a couple of "short overdresses" on
some of the painted birthing trays.  They definately have some sort of
"scarf" over their arms and under the lambs -- but that striped fabric
on the back of her sleeve just doesn't fit.  If it was a cloak, seems
like it should not follow her neckline like it does.  The right
shoulders of all the women are dark like maybe there is a cloak over
that shoulder.  Whatever the striped fabric is, it seen on the
underdress, the "scarf" under the lambs, and on the back of her left
arm.  I sure would like to see what other frescoes there are at "the
Runuccini Chapel in the Sacristy" somewhere in Florence!

One of the other ladies in the birth painting (URL below) also has on a
shorter overdress with a striped underdress.

>
> (Susan)-- and think of those two with the funny panel down the front
> http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giottino/pieta.jpg
> http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giovanni/milano/birth.jpg   both of whom have that
>
> De- I can not tell real well but this looks like this dress has a red front
> panel with striped material for the rest of the dress.
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/hitomi_gehrig/14th%20Century/Roncolo6
> .gif
>

Isn't that one just wild!  It almost looks like it could be a 10-gore
gown with each gore a different color! -- and the *only* reason that I
make that outlandish statement, is that the stripes appear wider around
her hips than they do her neckline.

Yep, Italian wierdness.  It's not as d as some of the Flemish stuff that
you run across though!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 21:22:28 -0600
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I hadn't thought of gores but I think you may be on to something here. This
would solve some peoples problems with not having enough fabric of one
color. :)
I thought that the dress has a front panel because of the white dots running
down the "seam".
I haven't seen the weird flemish stuff. Got pictures? :)

De

-----Original Message-----
>
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/hitomi_gehrig/14th%20Century/Roncolo6
> .gif
>

Isn't that one just wild!  It almost looks like it could be a 10-gore
gown with each gore a different color! -- and the *only* reason that I
make that outlandish statement, is that the stripes appear wider around
her hips than they do her neckline.

Yep, Italian wierdness.  It's not as d as some of the Flemish stuff that
you run across though!

Susan


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Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 23:01:27 -0600
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> I hadn't thought of gores but I think you may be on to something here. This
> would solve some peoples problems with not having enough fabric of one
> color. :)

It would be a hoot to do -- and you could carry that picture around with
you and say -- "see!  here it is -- wierd Italian garb!"  :-)

> I thought that the dress has a front panel because of the white dots running
> down the "seam".

I thought that they were buttons!

> I haven't seen the weird flemish stuff. Got pictures? :)

Of course!  Think about Anne of Cleves dress.  If all you knew was
English Tudor, you'd swear that was a Fantasy/Allegorical gown.  One
thing that you see quite a bit in Flemish garb -- that may very well be
allegorical is the "overbodice" -- you know like that thing that the
Victorians thought was a part of a bliaut?

Take the Genealogies of the Kings of Portugal -- symbolic in all
probability, but the elements show up a *lot*

http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/620/62082_2.jpg
my favorite.  This was on the cover of the Museum Catalog from the Getty
on Flemish Illuminations.  Dig the lady in the powder blue dress with
overbodice a little over halfway down on the right of the image.
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/bening_04c_DomFernandoDetail.jpg
and on this folio
http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/240/24052_2.jpg
and detail
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/bening_05starD_QualityDetail2.jpg

http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/34/3463_2.jpg
http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/122/12252_2.jpg

Virgin with Saints (Barbara & Catherine of Alexandria)
http://www.wga.hu/art/b/benson/lou_135.jpg

yet another saint -- left panel of triptych
http://tinyurl.com/a2z4t

and one of my personal favorites -- dig the pink "3 piece suit" on the
saint in the right panel
http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/2/05adorat.jpg

Elijah & the Widow of Zarapeth -- dig the sleeves
http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/1/04adora2.jpg

again symbolic/allegrical, but you got 4 "normal" gowns and that odd
thing in the lower left
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/flemish_CharlesBold.jpg

Have I overloaded your Wierd Meter yet?  :-D

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
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References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPOEDHFOAA.otsisto@socket.net>
	<20060218230127.te466b75uksoc0wg@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 00:23:34 -0600
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http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/34/3463_2.jpg

This on has long been my favorite. I have been sketching and searching and 
sketching these dresses for years hoping to find the right event to make one 
for. Sigh, and the time. :(

Thank you for the new images!!! :)

Chiara

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 11:01 PM
Subject: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...


> Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:
>
>> I hadn't thought of gores but I think you may be on to something here. 
>> This
>> would solve some peoples problems with not having enough fabric of one
>> color. :)
>
> It would be a hoot to do -- and you could carry that picture around with
> you and say -- "see!  here it is -- wierd Italian garb!"  :-)
>
>> I thought that the dress has a front panel because of the white dots 
>> running
>> down the "seam".
>
> I thought that they were buttons!
>
>> I haven't seen the weird flemish stuff. Got pictures? :)
>
> Of course!  Think about Anne of Cleves dress.  If all you knew was
> English Tudor, you'd swear that was a Fantasy/Allegorical gown.  One
> thing that you see quite a bit in Flemish garb -- that may very well be
> allegorical is the "overbodice" -- you know like that thing that the
> Victorians thought was a part of a bliaut?
>
> Take the Genealogies of the Kings of Portugal -- symbolic in all
> probability, but the elements show up a *lot*
>
> http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/620/62082_2.jpg
> my favorite.  This was on the cover of the Museum Catalog from the Getty
> on Flemish Illuminations.  Dig the lady in the powder blue dress with
> overbodice a little over halfway down on the right of the image.
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/bening_04c_DomFernandoDetail.jpg
> and on this folio
> http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/240/24052_2.jpg
> and detail
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/bening_05starD_QualityDetail2.jpg
>
> http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/34/3463_2.jpg
> http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/122/12252_2.jpg
>
> Virgin with Saints (Barbara & Catherine of Alexandria)
> http://www.wga.hu/art/b/benson/lou_135.jpg
>
> yet another saint -- left panel of triptych
> http://tinyurl.com/a2z4t
>
> and one of my personal favorites -- dig the pink "3 piece suit" on the
> saint in the right panel
> http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/2/05adorat.jpg
>
> Elijah & the Widow of Zarapeth -- dig the sleeves
> http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/1/04adora2.jpg
>
> again symbolic/allegrical, but you got 4 "normal" gowns and that odd
> thing in the lower left
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/flemish_CharlesBold.jpg
>
> Have I overloaded your Wierd Meter yet?  :-D
>
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Feb 19 01:56:45 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] modes and manners
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Hi,
Anybody know of the etiquette for 18th century. When a man is presented to a 
lady, and he kisses her hand, does he then actually kis the hand, or does he 
just pretend that he is kissing the hand?
I have done both, but not sure wich is correct.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Hi,
Thanks for the response!
I feel a lot happyer now :-) .
It also looks better now in daylight.
The only problem I have with it is that this colour probably will make 
me look even jonger than most people alredy think I am... :-\
And I have to look what colour belt and embroidery wil look better on 
the gown than yellow.
I think green would look well.
More reasons to dye more fabrik :-) .
It is so much fun.

Meekrap is indeed madder
We used alun as a mordand
And dyed it in a copper pan.
20% alun and afther a while I added 200% madder.

and then cleaned with water with a little ammonia.
I hope it won't ruin the silk.
But it looks ok now.

It is very thin silk don't know what it is called.

Greetings,
       Deredere


>  
>

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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colonial
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>--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>The polonaising also doesn't seem right to me. A polonaise on an 
>>English robe, yes, but on a sack? I've been looking through what 
>>books I can lay my hands on, and I haven't yet seen a sack-backed 
>>gown that is polonaised. The polonaise also isn't deep enough.
>
>Regarding the polonaising only - not had time to check out the other 
>stuff - there are at least two polonaised sacks in collections that I 
>have seen, one in Bath, and one in the Museum of London. Also I am 
>sure there are many sketches/fashion plates showing this, usually in 
>the 1770's. I think the French artist Moreau le Jeune shows this, but 
>they may be retroussee dans les poches, which gives a similar look.

Of course, now that you've said that, I think I *do* remember seeing pictures of polonaised sacks - or they may have been retroussee dans les poches, too. ( Blame up-too-late-at-night brain. ) But, if a gown was polonaised, weren't they usually polonaised at/from the back, not pulling the gown back from the centre front, as this one is? That is probably the thing which is most wrong about this gown, and made me think that an attempt had been made to alter it to suit a fashion from approx. 100 years later.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/101523900/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/101523898/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/101523897/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/101523896/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/101523899/

Actually, now I come to think about it a bit more, I wonder if it is just that the sellers don't understand where the skirt should be draped from to make the polonaise, so that instead of pulling the skirt up from the back, they pulled it back from the front. Hmmmmm....

I still would really like to have a good look at this gown in the flesh ( as it were ) or failing that, on a dress dummy that is the right size, height, and shape for it. And with the skirt polonaised the right way. :-) 

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~




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Subject: [h-cost] Anne of cleves and seeing things in context Re: Flemish
	RE: tippets ...
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> Of course!  Think about Anne of Cleves dress.  If all you knew was
> English Tudor, you'd swear that was a Fantasy/Allegorical gown.

Oh boy... I have discussed this one on my livejournal as I recently read the
most appalling disection of the sybolism in the painting ...

I found a quote online which I then tracked down in a bio about Holbein:
About the bands of trim on her skirt,
"The one on her left is not complemented by one on her right. Furthermore,
her right hand and the fall of her left undersleeve draw attention to the
discrepancy. This sends a signal to the viewer that, despite the ornateness
of the costume, there is something amiss, a certain clumsiness.[...]
Thus 'tait (a) gauche, pas a droit' (band on the left, not on the right')
sounds like 'tres gauche, pas adroit' ('very awkward, not skilful')

(Firstly do we know if Holbein spoke French?)

Oh no, let's not look at the rest of the art of the region to see if the
asymmetrical *opening* (not just trimming) is actually a fashion trait.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/k/2clevesdd.htm
Lots of openings on the left and the right!

Anyway, this is what I wrote:
I suspect Holbein succeeded in what he intended: A portrait that spoke the
truth, but people could interpret what they most wanted to believe. Her gaze
can be seen as reflective and knowing or vacant and dim depending on prior
"knowelege." (To me she looks content at that particular point in time, but
it doesn't seem to say much more beyond that.)

We also don't know just what portrait reached Henry first. The miniature is
said to have been painted after the larger portrait, but it could ahve been
painted first from the preparatory sketches. Henry may also have seen a
sketch even.

So indeed, many assumptions can be made when you don't look at context;)

I am actually working on the gown;) Well the 1560ish one at the top of each
page. I apologise for the changing colours, I still haven't decided on a
colour scheme. I need to hang out the velveteen that is halfway through the
bleaching process.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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In a message dated 2/19/2006 1:51:51 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

. When a  man is presented to a 
lady, and he kisses her hand, does he then actually  kis the hand, or does he 
just pretend that he is kissing the hand?
I  have done both, but not sure wich is correct.




And since you ask that, I have another question.  At least in the 20th  
century, a gentleman only kissed a MARRIED woman's hand.  I would like to  know 
when that started.  
 
Ann Was
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Fancy Dress Described
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It was Dickins and Jones on Regent Street that closed recently, not 
Debenhams - Debenhams is alive and well and has branches all over the 
country (Debenhams.com), but is far removed from an old-fashioned department 
store these days.

Interestingly, it's the Designers at Debenhams range - where various 
big-name fashion designers have created affordable collections specifically 
for the store - that has been credited with reviving the company's fortunes, 
as they were in serious trouble a few years back.



>------------------------------
>
>Message: 8
>Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 19:37:27 +0000
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fancy Dress Described
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.0.20060217193532.01d70cc8@127.0.0.1>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>At 14:54 17/02/2006, you wrote:
> >Debenham & Freebody were fashion designers for the elite of
> >England.  I have a few of their fashion plates in our Library.
> >
> >Penny E. Ladnier
> >Owner,
> >The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> >Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
> >Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
>
>
>The store called Debenham's has just recently closed in Regent
>Street. I rather think that it was the last remnants of what was a
>great store. It had an expensive redesign a few years ago, but never
>quite got back to the glory days of the Victorian and Edwardian shops.
>
>Suzi
>
>
>


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From: "Sue" <sue@victorianmillinery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <76.64c125d3.3129bb1b@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] modes and manners
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 09:32:50 -0500
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Actually, I think the man is only allowed to kiss her hand if she first 
presents her hand.Sue Shatto
Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
401 Fairview Ave.
Frederick, MD 21701
www.victorianmillinery.com
301-694-8950
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 7:14 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] modes and manners


>
> In a message dated 2/19/2006 1:51:51 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
> . When a  man is presented to a
> lady, and he kisses her hand, does he then actually  kis the hand, or does 
> he
> just pretend that he is kissing the hand?
> I  have done both, but not sure wich is correct.
>
>
>
>
> And since you ask that, I have another question.  At least in the 20th
> century, a gentleman only kissed a MARRIED woman's hand.  I would like to 
> know
> when that started.
>
> Ann Was
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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In a message dated 2/18/2006 6:04:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dch@inreach.com writes:

So I  would not assume that a "saturated" color is not  period.




*************
 
Well, that wasn't  originally MY concern, y'know....but the poster's  of the 
pic.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] modes and manners - kissing hands
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Sue <sue@victorianmillinery.com> wrote:
  Actually, I think the man is only allowed to kiss her hand if she first 
presents her hand.Sue Shatto
Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
401 Fairview Ave.
Frederick, MD 21701
www.victorianmillinery.com
301-694-8950  Comment
  Gentles of The List
  What a fascinating series of questions this thread raises for our discussion and learning!
  We do know that it was proper etiquette to expect to "kiss the Rings" of our own temporal Rulers, of all Princes of the Church and other Lords Spiritual [Cardinals, Archibishops, and Bishops - and therfore our Religious Superiors], during the medieval Period. 
  I am sure the ring-hand had to be offered first, though, and it was an expected gesture of submissive respect.
  So there was no point in offering your Ring of Office to be kissed by anyone who was not your Subject, Liegeman, or spiritual Inferior, and thus unlikely to naturally aquiesce to this mark of Respect. 
  An Ambassador might bow before a Foreign Ruler on being Presented, but - not being a Subject of said Ruler, and being already Liege-sworn to his Own Overlord - would the Diplomat kiss the Ring of Office of a foreign Lord Temporal? I think perhaps not.
   
  The kissing of Ladies hands, though - ...? 
  When did the custom begin? 
  Did this originate with the French Courts Of Love in Provence?
   
  Since I re-enact a Senior King's Officer of the late 15th Century, I, too would be most interested to be enlightened as to the minutiæ of this custom. 
  My Persona had no Social Equals in Jersey, as King's Governor, even the 5 Hauts Seigneurs ranking below the Governor in Precedence, - but might well have been "courtly enough" to, at the least, "bow-over" the hands of local- or visitng- high-born Ladies, out of Chivalry, and respect to their Femininity and noble Birth.
  Does any Lister know of this subject being mentioned in sufficient detail to enlighten us further, in any medieval Book about Courtly etiquette?




                  Yours in Service, 
  Matthew
  ["Messire Matthew Baker", Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: 
  Motto  - "Si vis pacem, para bellum" (Trans:-"if you wish for Peace, prepare for War") ]
  aka. - Julian Wilson,  - late-medieval Re-enactor; Herald, Historian, & Master Artisan to 
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards", 
[the Island of "olde" Jersey's only mediæval living-history Group] 
Meet us at <  www.dukesleopards.org  >" 
     [input]  
  - 










		
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Quoting michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>:

>> Of course!  Think about Anne of Cleves dress.  If all you knew was
>> English Tudor, you'd swear that was a Fantasy/Allegorical gown.
>
> Oh boy... I have discussed this one on my livejournal as I recently read the
> most appalling disection of the sybolism in the painting ...
>
> I found a quote online which I then tracked down in a bio about Holbein:
> About the bands of trim on her skirt,
> "The one on her left is not complemented by one on her right. Furthermore,
> her right hand and the fall of her left undersleeve draw attention to the
> discrepancy. This sends a signal to the viewer that, despite the ornateness
> of the costume, there is something amiss, a certain clumsiness.[...]
> Thus 'tait (a) gauche, pas a droit' (band on the left, not on the right')
> sounds like 'tres gauche, pas adroit' ('very awkward, not skilful')

Oh, yeah, right!  >rolls eyes<

Even Freud said it, "sometimes a cigar is just a cigar"

I think that the gown is lovely (I want to make one in Teal, but that's
neither here nor there).  My only context in including it there was to
show that to eyes used to English clothing of the period, that it would
look wierd, or fanciful, or whatever -- not that I thought it was an
allegorical garment.

I think that page that you have with the German thumbmails is a
wonderful resource for this type of garment!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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I agree too, that is a gorgeous color and looks good on you. The yellow doesn't go with it very well, but some of the shades of blue and green on the book shelf behind you appear to be very complimentary.
   
  I recall seeing color like this in some Medieval paintings, somewhere in 13th-15th century art. I can't recall where I saw them at the moment or what type of 'gown' the color appeared on - but would seem to support that color as period.
   
  And as De suggests, if you were using period methods, then it is reasonable to assume that the color would be period.
   
  Annette M

    Message: 1
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 20:59:53 +0100
From: Deredere Galbraith 
Subject: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question

Hi,

Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
And it got a shokking salmon pink.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
I wonder if this would be right for that period.

I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.
It is a root that gives orange to red colour and was used in medieval times.
And then put in water with a little ammonia sinse orange is really not a 
colour for me.
But I am not totally sure if this is much better :-\ .
I would love to hear other opinions.

Greetings,
Deredere




------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 14:08:33 -0600
From: "Betsy Marshall" 
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
To: "'Historical Costume'" 
Message-ID: <001501c634c7$18415970$6601a8c0@PYC64>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Don't know about correct for your project, but the color looks pretty good
on you!

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 12:25:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Lalah 
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question


I have to agree with Betsy. The color is beautiful and looks
great on you. If it were me I would go for it.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 14:44:44 -0600
From: "Susan B. Farmer" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question

Quoting Deredere Galbraith :

> Hi,
>
> Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
> And it got a shokking salmon pink.
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
> I wonder if this would be right for that period.

I think that the color is gorgeous!

>
> I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.

Do you know what the latin name is? I can translate! :-S

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/




------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 12:47:20 -0800 (PST)
From: "Diana Habra" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question



> Hi,
>
> Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
> And it got a shokking salmon pink.
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
> I wonder if this would be right for that period.
>
> I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.

That sounds like madder root.

> It is a root that gives orange to red colour and was used in medieval
> times.
> And then put in water with a little ammonia sinse orange is really not a
> colour for me.
> But I am not totally sure if this is much better :-\ .
> I would love to hear other opinions.

Which chemical mordant did you use? Mordants are things like alum,
nickel, iron, and I forget the last one. You put the mordant into the dye
bath and each chemical gives a different shade of red-orange. You can
also pre-treat the cloth with a bath of the mordant and then dye it
separately.

You can look up which one gives a more red color and try re-dying it with
that. There are some good books about natural dyes that you can either
order or find in your library. And there are some places online that sell
the dye items and mordants that you would need. Sorry I can't tell you
any specific books or websites....I haven't done natural dyeing in years!

And I agree that the orange isn't a bad color for you.....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 14:46:25 -0600
From: "Susan B. Farmer" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <20060218144625.rrkdyhusm69wgcwk@www.goldsword.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format="flowed"

Quoting Deredere Galbraith :

> Hi,
>
> Today I dyed silk for my 12th century bliaut.
> And it got a shokking salmon pink.
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Bliautsilk.jpg
> I wonder if this would be right for that period.
>
> I dyed it with meekrap. I don't know the correct english name.

google is my friend. Looks like Rubia tinctorum -- aka Madder.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/




------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 14:02:19 -0700
From: "Sue Clemenger" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
To: "Historical Costume" 
Message-ID: <002101c634ce$9bdd0b60$5cbfa6d8@pavilion>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I think the plant you are referring to is known as "madder" in English.
I've gotten colors similar to yours in my madder dyeing. It's pretty pH and
temperature sensitive.
I'm afraid I don't know enough about 12th century costume (and colors
thereof) to be able to tell you about the historical accuracy of the color
for that kind of gown, though. ;o(
--Sue
------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 17:12:11 EST
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question



In a message dated 2/18/2006 3:26:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:

And it got a shokking salmon pink.



****************
Well, you may have been shocked, but I think the salmon pick looks divine! 
It beautiful. It doesn't look too saturated to not be period. It looks great!


------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 15:05:21 -0800 (PST)
From: "Diana Habra" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question



Uhhh...from what I have heard, they have found clothing scraps that were
hot pink in Viking burial grounds. I believe that the they used some kind
of lichen to dye it.

So I would not assume that a "saturated" color is not period.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi



------------------------------

------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 15:35:32 -0800
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" 
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
To: "'Historical Costume'" 
Message-ID: <000b01c634e4$02c376b0$0300a8c0@bob3pc>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Rose madder?


------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 15:37:09 -0800
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" 
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question

It may be a period color. Check out tapestries and/or carpets from that
time.

------------------------------

Message: 13
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 19:48:26 -0600
From: "otsisto" 
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question

Just opinion and not an expert in the period. If you achieved it with a
period process, one can assume that it probably was available and possibly
worn in that period. In the next century you find pink and pinkish garments
in illuminations.
I would say since it is a good color on you to not dye it again. Also,
though it is a bit bright (probably from the sheen of the fabric) it is not
a shocking salmon color.
I would not wear the shade of yellow that you have there as it detracts.
What you offset this salmon with will determine whether the gown stands 
out
or you.

  De

			
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> But, if a gown was polonaised, weren't they usually polonaised at/from
> the back, not pulling the gown back from the centre front, as this one is?
> That is probably the thing which is most wrong about this gown, and
> made me think that an attempt had been made to alter it to suit a fashion
> from approx. 100 years later.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/99693840@N00/101523900/

     For the link above - I wish I could see the front a bit better!  See
the ruching that goes (apparently) all the way up to the neckline? 
And it's not close to the body, not exact center front.  It looks
like a gown open from the neck down and worn with a zone, which is
kind of like an upside-down stomacher.  Instead of a V shape, what
shows is an A shape, although the zone may be pointed at the bottom.

     Since that particular gown sweeps back from the neckline, I think
it's dressed correctly.

     I had not seen polonaised saques, either.  (And of course I started
looking *after* I made one...)  They appear to be fairly rare, since
it disrupts the long, flowing line from the back.

     It seems like polonaising was done different ways and to different
degrees, no set rule, and I'm sure some in the 18thC did it badly!

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colors....was: Re: Bliaut silk natural dyed colour
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In a message dated 2/19/2006 11:33:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kahlara@yahoo.com writes:

The  yellow doesn't go with it very well, 


**************
 
I disagree...in a period context. In ages where there were limited dye  
colors and limited choices of what was available, things weren't so  matchy-matchy 
as today. Our aesthetic is influenced by the fact we  have hundreds of vendors 
at our finger tips.
 
I don't mean that in the past they would just "settle" for chrome yellow  
with a bright salmon because that's all they could get. No I don't mean that. I  
mean, they LIKE the two together, maybe because of both of the colors powerful 
 statement. You see these types of combinations everywhere up until the 20th  
century. [and even now for those who don't want to be "safe"]
 
And of course the amount and placement of color matters. As Schiaparelli  
knew, a smattering of hot pink with a sea of navy can be very effective.
 
In school we did this wonderful project....my fave! [I know I've described  
it before]. The "ugly Color" project. We had to pick 2 colors that just looked  
awful together [the instructor had to approve their incompatibility]. Then we 
 had to fins the 3rd color that, put with the other two, made them all work  
together. There is always one. Then we had to do a design with these 3  colors.
 
There is a 3rd color that will make the Yellow and Salmon look dangerous  but 
divine!
 
Here are some dangerous combinations from one of my fave artists, Zurbaran,  
who I just happen to be researching lately. One is very close to the colors we 
 have here.[And these reproductions seem to be muted. The real ones have more 
 vivid color.]
 
 
_http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/z/zurbaran/2/casilda.html_ 
(http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/z/zurbaran/2/casilda.html) 
 
_http://cartelen.louvre.fr/cartelen/visite?srv=car_not_frame&idNotice=603_ 
(http://cartelen.louvre.fr/cartelen/visite?srv=car_not_frame&idNotice=603) 
 
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 08:51:29 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] modes and manners
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At 21:35 18/02/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Anybody know of the etiquette for 18th century. When a man is 
>presented to a lady, and he kisses her hand, does he then actually 
>kis the hand, or does he just pretend that he is kissing the hand?
>I have done both, but not sure wich is correct.
>
>Bjarne


When I worked on a drama/documentary on Victoria and Albert, we had 
one of the Queen's equerries on set, giving advice on various 
protocol issues. He showed me that when a man kisses a lady's hand, 
he does not kiss the hand, but his own thumb! If you get the angle 
right this is very simple and looks as though you are kissing the 
hand. I don't know if this was 18th century practice, but was 
obviously 19th century and up to modern times.


Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anne of cleves and seeing things in context Re:
	FlemishRE: tippets ...
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My godnes you really have made a research of this. I would never have 
dreamed of that there existed so many portraits. Definately i will look at 
it when i get more time.

Bjarne who makes pleated stock cravats, so tedious.....


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 11:44 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Anne of cleves and seeing things in context Re: FlemishRE: 
tippets ...


>> Of course!  Think about Anne of Cleves dress.  If all you knew was
>> English Tudor, you'd swear that was a Fantasy/Allegorical gown.
>
> Oh boy... I have discussed this one on my livejournal as I recently read 
> the
> most appalling disection of the sybolism in the painting ...
>
> I found a quote online which I then tracked down in a bio about Holbein:
> About the bands of trim on her skirt,
> "The one on her left is not complemented by one on her right. Furthermore,
> her right hand and the fall of her left undersleeve draw attention to the
> discrepancy. This sends a signal to the viewer that, despite the 
> ornateness
> of the costume, there is something amiss, a certain clumsiness.[...]
> Thus 'tait (a) gauche, pas a droit' (band on the left, not on the right')
> sounds like 'tres gauche, pas adroit' ('very awkward, not skilful')
>
> (Firstly do we know if Holbein spoke French?)
>
> Oh no, let's not look at the rest of the art of the region to see if the
> asymmetrical *opening* (not just trimming) is actually a fashion trait.
>
> http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/k/2clevesdd.htm
> Lots of openings on the left and the right!
>
> Anyway, this is what I wrote:
> I suspect Holbein succeeded in what he intended: A portrait that spoke the
> truth, but people could interpret what they most wanted to believe. Her 
> gaze
> can be seen as reflective and knowing or vacant and dim depending on prior
> "knowelege." (To me she looks content at that particular point in time, 
> but
> it doesn't seem to say much more beyond that.)
>
> We also don't know just what portrait reached Henry first. The miniature 
> is
> said to have been painted after the larger portrait, but it could ahve 
> been
> painted first from the preparatory sketches. Henry may also have seen a
> sketch even.
>
> So indeed, many assumptions can be made when you don't look at context;)
>
> I am actually working on the gown;) Well the 1560ish one at the top of 
> each
> page. I apologise for the changing colours, I still haven't decided on a
> colour scheme. I need to hang out the velveteen that is halfway through 
> the
> bleaching process.
>
> michaela de bruce
> http://glittersweet.com
>
>
>
> -- 
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> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Quoting Chiara Francesca <chiara@io.com>:

> http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/34/3463_2.jpg
>
> This on has long been my favorite. I have been sketching and 
> searching and sketching these dresses for years hoping to find the 
> right event to make one for. Sigh, and the time. :(
>
> Thank you for the new images!!! :)

I"m with you; I love them!

Sure thing.  If indeed these are symbolic/allegorical, I'd like to see
the gowns that they were derived from.  We all know (thanks to Robin)
that the later Sideless Surcoats are largely symbolic, and how they
differ from *real* Sideless Surcoats.  If this is allegorical garb, I
want to find the progenetor!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Mystery Bag
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In my late night perusals of the web, I had come
across this sweet bag. I know it is gold work, and
likely 16th c., otherwise I wouldn't have the photo.
But for the *life of me* I can't remember where I got
it from, thus have no attribution. Since I am using
the motif all over everything lately, could everyone
search their memories and hopfully come up with the
location I originally found this photo at so that I
might reattach its attribution and provenance? 

http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/M91_165.jpg

Thanks so much.

Kathy
24 hours away from New York and old underwear...

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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	<6.2.3.4.0.20060219084818.01de0a50@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] modes and manners
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 20:14:20 +0100
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Hi Suzi,
That was a good idea with the thumb. Ill remember this.
A question posted to 18th century womens list, gave the same respond, not 
kiss the hand, but pretend.
I learned from the Gustavians, to hug 3 times kissing outside at the ears of 
ladies. Muf muf muf. Its a nice habit
;-)

Bjarne

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 9:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] modes and manners


> At 21:35 18/02/2006, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>Anybody know of the etiquette for 18th century. When a man is presented to 
>>a lady, and he kisses her hand, does he then actually kis the hand, or 
>>does he just pretend that he is kissing the hand?
>>I have done both, but not sure wich is correct.
>>
>>Bjarne
>
>
> When I worked on a drama/documentary on Victoria and Albert, we had one of 
> the Queen's equerries on set, giving advice on various protocol issues. He 
> showed me that when a man kisses a lady's hand, he does not kiss the hand, 
> but his own thumb! If you get the angle right this is very simple and 
> looks as though you are kissing the hand. I don't know if this was 18th 
> century practice, but was obviously 19th century and up to modern times.
>
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060219190042.49150.qmail@web52109.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Bag
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 14:36:38 -0500
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Status: RO

Very nice bag. I'm interested in making one of them. When you get the 
documentation, please post it here.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathy Page" <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: "Historical Costume List" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 2:00 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Mystery Bag


> In my late night perusals of the web, I had come
> across this sweet bag. I know it is gold work, and
> likely 16th c., otherwise I wouldn't have the photo.
> But for the *life of me* I can't remember where I got
> it from, thus have no attribution. Since I am using
> the motif all over everything lately, could everyone
> search their memories and hopfully come up with the
> location I originally found this photo at so that I
> might reattach its attribution and provenance?
>
> http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/M91_165.jpg
>
> Thanks so much.
>
> Kathy
> 24 hours away from New York and old underwear...
>
> Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a 
> rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
>
> It's never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth 
> there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart 
> somewhere to receive it.
> -Ivan Panin
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 02:03:01 -0600
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I'm not sure I understand the tree. Is the woman standing the matriarch of
the family and the couple sitting at the bottom of the drawing brother and
sister or are they the parents and the woman standing the featured
descendent?
Not as wild as the Swabian.
I like the blue dress on the woman just above and to the right of the
standing woman. She has an interesting fan.
Then again the blue and red to the lower left of the woman's black sleeves
are interesting.
Thank you for the picture.
De

-----Original Message-----
http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/34/3463_2.jpg

This on has long been my favorite. I have been sketching and searching and
sketching these dresses for years hoping to find the right event to make one
for. Sigh, and the time. :(

Thank you for the new images!!! :)

Chiara


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] my stockings
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So now i have 4 days to hope my stockings from Jas Townsend will arrive. I 
know they sended them for me right after i ordered, but its the danish 
customs that holds them back.
They do everything they can to make it inatractive to import from other 
countryes than the EU
sorry just had to get it out of my system...........

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 14:38:04 -0600
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> I'm not sure I understand the tree. Is the woman standing the matriarch of
> the family and the couple sitting at the bottom of the drawing brother and
> sister or are they the parents and the woman standing the featured
> descendent?

The tree?  *giggle*  I've never even tried to figure out the tree!  I
need to see if I can print a copy large enough to read the names --
then it might work.

> Not as wild as the Swabian.

I suppose!  :-)  The Swabians do like their beads/pearls, don't they! 
There's a painting by Part that is very similar

I thought that it was Myra that had the whole thing, but she does have
some of the pieces parts here
http://myra.hem.nu/costume/CostumeGallery/Embroidery_1490/Embroidery_1490.htm
Found it!
http://www.aeiou.at/aeiou.encyclop.b/b003177.htm

> I like the blue dress on the woman just above and to the right of the
> standing woman. She has an interesting fan.
> Then again the blue and red to the lower left of the woman's black sleeves
> are interesting.

I love these things.  I forget now how many leaves there were
originally, I know that at least one of them was never inked in -- but
they are a *wealth* of detail!

> Thank you for the picture.

Hey, as packrat of interesting (but not always useful) information, I
feel it's part of my duty to pass it along!

:-D

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Kathy Page wrote:

> 
> http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/M91_165.jpg
> 

I've looked at dozens of bags in the past two weeks but can't recall 
that one, sorry. It does look more 17th century (mid-late?) to me than 
16th, though. It's metal embroidery, it's symmetrical, there's that 
stylized scrollwork and leaves... I'm in the process of trying to make 
one myself.


Dawn



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Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 13:38:57 -0800
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At 01:03 PM 2/19/2006, you wrote:
>Kathy Page wrote:
>
>>http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/M91_165.jpg
>
>I've looked at dozens of bags in the past two weeks but can't recall 
>that one, sorry. It does look more 17th century (mid-late?) to me 
>than 16th, though. It's metal embroidery, it's symmetrical, there's 
>that stylized scrollwork and leaves... I'm in the process of trying 
>to make one myself.
>
>Dawn

Could it be 19th century?  Part of the Renaissance/medieval revival 
fashion?  Those really heavy tassels look overdone for the 16th-17th 
century to me.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 16:12:00 -0600
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I had notice that it was a bit light for a bliaut. Were you planning on
making the "mini" pleated type garment with this? If you were going to use
it for a regular bliaut and have the lining add the weight, you need to
consider the color of the lining when choosing embroidery/trim accents
because the color will change.
Now for making you look younger, I'm sure that if this fabric does that and
you are not happy, there are several women here who would gladly take it of
your hands. It would be no problem.:)
Shades of green are good as accent. Golds, some blue shades, pinks, silver
and gray. You may want to consider two colors for accent but don't have too.
Wish I could be as enthusiastic about dyeing like you but I think my
enthusiasm went towards embroidery and beading. :)

De
-----Original---------
Hi,
Thanks for the response!
I feel a lot happyer now :-) .
It also looks better now in daylight.
The only problem I have with it is that this colour probably will make
me look even jonger than most people alredy think I am... :-\
And I have to look what colour belt and embroidery wil look better on
the gown than yellow.
I think green would look well.
More reasons to dye more fabrik :-) .
It is so much fun.

Meekrap is indeed madder
We used alun as a mordand
And dyed it in a copper pan.
20% alun and afther a while I added 200% madder.

and then cleaned with water with a little ammonia.
I hope it won't ruin the silk.
But it looks ok now.

It is very thin silk don't know what it is called.

Greetings,
       Deredere


>
>

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Thank you the site. I am pulling together material and stuff to make the
dress that is not black and gold striped.
It will be in purple with the "chest" panel(?) in blue. Your site will help
me.
If you can slow the colour change down a bit, I think it is a wonderful way
of giving others color options so that all those who make this style don't
look like movie stunt doubles.
De

-----Original Message-----
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/k/2clevesdd.htm
Lots of openings on the left and the right!

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 16:46:35 -0600
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I guess they could be buttons but the top of the red seems to be wider then
the other panels and it almost looks like there are dots on the other side
of the red at the bust. I was thinking that it was similar in treatment to
the birth of the virgin dress with the gold whatchamagiggers running down
the seams.
I may make this (insert evil grin) as I am trying to get a period name
passed and so far the "Italian" name hasn't run into problems. So maybe I am
destined to have a "Italian" persona in SCA. :\ And I need a 14th century
outfit because that is what the majority of the people are around here so
for local events I want to blend in some. Now what four colors shall I uses
(bwahahahah)
De
-----Original Message-----
> I thought that the dress has a front panel because of the white dots
running
> down the "seam".

I thought that they were buttons!



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Perhaps this will help some.
http://www.sam-hane.com/sass/handkiss.htm

De





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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners
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At 22:53 19/02/2006, you wrote:
>Perhaps this will help some.
>http://www.sam-hane.com/sass/handkiss.htm
>
>De


This may be etiquette in the U.S. but it is not in court circles in 
Britain. Manners may well differ in different countries. My comment 
was an answer to Bjarne according to British habits. Under normal 
circumstances, most ladies would be wearing gloves, so the actual 
kiss on the skin of the hand would not happen anyway. Gloves were not 
taken off when one was introduced to someone.

Suzi


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
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Status: RO

Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> I guess they could be buttons but the top of the red seems to be wider then
> the other panels and it almost looks like there are dots on the other side
> of the red at the bust. I was thinking that it was similar in treatment to
> the birth of the virgin dress with the gold whatchamagiggers running down
> the seams.

If we only knew someone who was going to go see Castle Roncolo/
Runkelstein  -- maybe we could get them to take some better pictures! I 
want a larger picture of this woman!

> I may make this (insert evil grin) as I am trying to get a period name
> passed and so far the "Italian" name hasn't run into problems. So maybe I am
> destined to have a "Italian" persona in SCA. :\ And I need a 14th century
> outfit because that is what the majority of the people are around here so
> for local events I want to blend in some. Now what four colors shall I uses
> (bwahahahah)

um, why stop at 4?  (more evil grin)  you can only see 1/4 of per
person, yes?

:-D

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> I guess they could be buttons but the top of the red seems to be wider then
> the other panels and it almost looks like there are dots on the other side
> of the red at the bust. I was thinking that it was similar in treatment to
> the birth of the virgin dress with the gold whatchamagiggers running down
> the seams.

Another thought ...

Could be.  Think though of any number of Mundane princess-seam dresses
-- the front panel is cut on the fold so it's twice as wide as all the
others!

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 19:13:00 -0600
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Bag
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It's from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art:

Museum Number	M.91.165
Classification Term	Costume/clothing accessory/purse
Artist/Place	France
Title	Woman’s Purse
Date	1595
Medium & Technique	Silk velvet, metallic thread, pearls, silk taffeta
Dimensions	Length: 6 1/2 in. (16.51 cm)
Credit Line	Purchased with funds provided by Claudia Mirkin
----------------------------------------------------------------- ------
Department	Costume and Textiles
Place	France
Subject	Purses


http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebimages/C_t02_mm/full/M91_165.jpg



Melanie Schuessler

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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"Mini pleated type garment???"
--Sue, missing the reference completely...

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 3:12 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question


> I had notice that it was a bit light for a bliaut. Were you planning on
> making the "mini" pleated type garment with this? If you were going to use
> it for a regular bliaut and have the lining add the weight, you need to
> consider the color of the lining when choosing embroidery/trim accents
> because the color will change.

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 02:50:05 -0600
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Status: RO

For balance? Mainly I don't want a post reveler getting dizzy and hurling
more colour onto it. :P
And thinking of multi- colours, this reminded me of someone I know who made
a man's Landsknecht in various Hawaiian print fabric. Bright colors too.

De

-----Original Message-----
um, why stop at 4?  (more evil grin)  you can only see 1/4 of per
person, yes?

:-D

Jerusha


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
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Status: RO

I am going for the very pleated version like the statues.
The silk holds pleats very wel.
I will make it wet and pleat the fabric than let it dry.
http://www.bluffton.edu/%7Esullivanm/chartreswest/jambs.html



_http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/z/zurbaran/2/casilda.html_
(http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/z/zurbaran/2/casilda.html)

_http://cartelen.louvre.fr/cartelen/visite?srv=car_not_frame&idNotice=603_
(http://cartelen.louvre.fr/cartelen/visite?srv=car_not_frame&idNotice=603)

These are very inspiring!
If I make a green cloak green and  make some green embroidery on the
yellow belt  and  put small  yellow embroidered bands along the neckline
and sleeves...

It is for a event caled Knights and Lady's.
The story is that the knights just came bak from their crusade and I am
showing my new dress my husband brought back for me :-) .




otsisto wrote:

>I had notice that it was a bit light for a bliaut. Were you planning on
>making the "mini" pleated type garment with this? If you were going to use
>it for a regular bliaut and have the lining add the weight, you need to
>consider the color of the lining when choosing embroidery/trim accents
>because the color will change.
>Now for making you look younger, I'm sure that if this fabric does that and
>you are not happy, there are several women here who would gladly take it of
>your hands. It would be no problem.:)
>Shades of green are good as accent. Golds, some blue shades, pinks, silver
>and gray. You may want to consider two colors for accent but don't have too.
>Wish I could be as enthusiastic about dyeing like you but I think my
>enthusiasm went towards embroidery and beading. :)
>
>De
>-----Original---------
>Hi,
>Thanks for the response!
>I feel a lot happyer now :-) .
>It also looks better now in daylight.
>The only problem I have with it is that this colour probably will make
>me look even jonger than most people alredy think I am... :-\
>And I have to look what colour belt and embroidery wil look better on
>the gown than yellow.
>I think green would look well.
>More reasons to dye more fabrik :-) .
>It is so much fun.
>
>Meekrap is indeed madder
>We used alun as a mordand
>And dyed it in a copper pan.
>20% alun and afther a while I added 200% madder.
>
>and then cleaned with water with a little ammonia.
>I hope it won't ruin the silk.
>But it looks ok now.
>
>It is very thin silk don't know what it is called.
>
>Greetings,
>       Deredere
>
>
>  
>
>>    
>>
>
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>h-costume mailing list
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>
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>
>  
>


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 03:14:47 -0600
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-----Original Message-----
This may be etiquette in the U.S. but it is not in court circles in Britain.
Manners may well differ in different countries. My comment was an answer to
Bjarne according to British habits. Under normal circumstances, most ladies
would be wearing gloves, so the actual kiss on the skin of the hand would
not happen anyway. Gloves were not taken off when one was introduced to
someone.

Suzi
__________
As I said "Perhaps" and "some"
Please note from the site:
"Period books of (American) etiquette state that not removing one's gloves
by the gentleman is perfectly proper. If your character is European,
however, the gentleman would remove the glove from the hand that takes the
lady's."
This is more 1800s etiquette and from what little I understand of the
period, much of both US coasts were fascinated by European etiquette during
the 1800s and tried to emulate it.
Perhaps I misread Bjarne's email as I do not remember seeing Britain
specified. I apologies for the bandwidth in posting the url. I will
definitely make sure that I do not make that mistake again.
De


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners
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At 09:14 20/02/2006, you wrote:
>-----Original Message-----
>This may be etiquette in the U.S. but it is not in court circles in Britain.
>Manners may well differ in different countries. My comment was an answer to
>Bjarne according to British habits. Under normal circumstances, most ladies
>would be wearing gloves, so the actual kiss on the skin of the hand would
>not happen anyway. Gloves were not taken off when one was introduced to
>someone.
>
>Suzi
>__________
>As I said "Perhaps" and "some"
>Please note from the site:
>"Period books of (American) etiquette state that not removing one's gloves
>by the gentleman is perfectly proper. If your character is European,
>however, the gentleman would remove the glove from the hand that takes the
>lady's."
>This is more 1800s etiquette and from what little I understand of the
>period, much of both US coasts were fascinated by European etiquette during
>the 1800s and tried to emulate it.
>Perhaps I misread Bjarne's email as I do not remember seeing Britain
>specified. I apologies for the bandwidth in posting the url. I will
>definitely make sure that I do not make that mistake again.


You are right that Bjarne didn't specify British - that was me, 
trying to make sure that I only spoke of that which I knew. I also 
said that it was 19th century and on, while Bjarne asked about 18th 
century. I don't know about that, or about American etiquette, and 
was too lazy to quote from my 19c. etiquette books.

I should have said "ladies did not take their gloves off when 
introduced to someone." (Actually of course when someone was 
introduced to them in many situations! Oh, how complicated!) I found 
the site fascinating but slightly different to what I know, hence my 
comment about things being different.

Suzi
Suzi 


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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 09:50:45 +0000
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Fancy Dress Described
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Yes, the Debenhams chain took over the local privately owned department store in many English towns. I thought it sounded surprising that the main London store should have closed.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> mrscakehole@hotmail.com 19/02/2006 13:19 >>>
It was Dickins and Jones on Regent Street that closed recently, not 
Debenhams - Debenhams is alive and well and has branches all over the 
country (Debenhams.com), but is far removed from an old-fashioned department 
store these days.




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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Fancy Dress Described
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At 09:50 20/02/2006, you wrote:
>Yes, the Debenhams chain took over the local privately owned 
>department store in many English towns. I thought it sounded 
>surprising that the main London store should have closed.
>
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
> >>> mrscakehole@hotmail.com 19/02/2006 13:19 >>>
>It was Dickins and Jones on Regent Street that closed recently, not
>Debenhams - Debenhams is alive and well and has branches all over the
>country (Debenhams.com), but is far removed from an old-fashioned department
>store these days.


Yes, I had a blonde moment and got my department stores mixed up. Sorry!

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Amadeus
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Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> moreplentyn@earthlink.net 13/02/2006 04:15 >>> wrote:

>Actually, d'Artagnan was a real person, and was a member, eventually 
>captain, of the King's Musketeers.  However, the historical Charles de 
>Batz-Castlemore d'Artagnan was born somewhere around 1625 and so most of his 
>exploits were during the reign of Louis XIV, not Louis XIII. 
________________________________________________________

There was a recent article in "History today" putting forward a theory that the Man in the Iron Mask (who also really existed) was in fact d'Artagnan.

Gail wrote:

>The story of Amadeus has very little to do with the real Mozart. He did not
>live in terror of his father, he was very fond of him. And of course Salieri
>didn't kill him.

And, although he enjoyed schoolboy puns and lavatorial humour in some of his letters (as did his mother), he can't possibly have been like that all the time.
I had to stop a colleague of mine from classifying a video of "Amadeus" with biographies of Mozart, under the impression that it was an accurate portrayal.

______________


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	<7.0.1.0.2.20060219133740.023d22f0@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Bag
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 09:11:58 -0500
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Or even the 19th C? The overall scrolling of the fleur de lis design with
the addition of some beading would place this for me, in the 1870s/80s.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Bag


> At 01:03 PM 2/19/2006, you wrote:
> >Kathy Page wrote:
> >
> >>http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/M91_165.jpg
> >
> >I've looked at dozens of bags in the past two weeks but can't recall
> >that one, sorry. It does look more 17th century (mid-late?) to me
> >than 16th, though. It's metal embroidery, it's symmetrical, there's
> >that stylized scrollwork and leaves... I'm in the process of trying
> >to make one myself.
> >
> >Dawn
>
> Could it be 19th century?  Part of the Renaissance/medieval revival
> fashion?  Those really heavy tassels look overdone for the 16th-17th
> century to me.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPCEFGFOAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 09:26:51 -0500
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One of my more droll findings in etiquitte books (American, late 19th C) is
a note that ladies never take off their gloves even at a
dinnertable...unless the hostess does!!  For the nouveu upper middle class,
this advice  would speak woe to the idea that one might well ruin many pairs
of long white kid gloves attending affairs of someone who really was Not In
the Know".

Kathleen

----- Original wwqMessage ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 4:14 AM
Subject: RE: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners


> -----Original Message-----
> This may be etiquette in the U.S. but it is not in court circles in
Britain.
> Manners may well differ in different countries. My comment was an answer
to
> Bjarne according to British habits. Under normal circumstances, most
ladies
> would be wearing gloves, so the actual kiss on the skin of the hand would
> not happen anyway. Gloves were not taken off when one was introduced to
> someone.
>
> Suzi
> __________
> As I said "Perhaps" and "some"
> Please note from the site:
> "Period books of (American) etiquette state that not removing one's gloves
> by the gentleman is perfectly proper. If your character is European,
> however, the gentleman would remove the glove from the hand that takes the
> lady's."
> This is more 1800s etiquette and from what little I understand of the
> period, much of both US coasts were fascinated by European etiquette
during
> the 1800s and tried to emulate it.
> Perhaps I misread Bjarne's email as I do not remember seeing Britain
> specified. I apologies for the bandwidth in posting the url. I will
> definitely make sure that I do not make that mistake again.
> De
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners
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At 14:26 20/02/2006, you wrote:
>One of my more droll findings in etiquitte books (American, late 19th C) is
>a note that ladies never take off their gloves even at a
>dinnertable...unless the hostess does!!  For the nouveu upper middle class,
>this advice  would speak woe to the idea that one might well ruin many pairs
>of long white kid gloves attending affairs of someone who really was Not In
>the Know".

Ah, but if you had gloves which buttoned at the wrist, you could undo 
the buttons, and tuck the "hand" part into the rest of the glove. 
Thus, while technically not removing your gloves, you actually didn't 
get them in the soup - or whatever.

Suzi


> > -----Original Message-----
> > This may be etiquette in the U.S. but it is not in court circles in
>Britain.
> > Manners may well differ in different countries. My comment was an answer
>to
> > Bjarne according to British habits. Under normal circumstances, most
>ladies
> > would be wearing gloves, so the actual kiss on the skin of the hand would
> > not happen anyway. Gloves were not taken off when one was introduced to
> > someone.
> >
> > Suzi
> > __________
> > As I said "Perhaps" and "some"
> > Please note from the site:
> > "Period books of (American) etiquette state that not removing one's gloves
> > by the gentleman is perfectly proper. If your character is European,
> > however, the gentleman would remove the glove from the hand that takes the
> > lady's."
> > This is more 1800s etiquette and from what little I understand of the
> > period, much of both US coasts were fascinated by European etiquette
>during
> > the 1800s and tried to emulate it.
> > Perhaps I misread Bjarne's email as I do not remember seeing Britain
> > specified. I apologies for the bandwidth in posting the url. I will
> > definitely make sure that I do not make that mistake again.
> > De
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Anne of cleves and seeing things in context Re:
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Thanks for the info on Anne of Cleves portrait by Holbein. Tudor costume
is my big area of interest and Anne of Cleves(by reason of her short
tenure as queen consort)has gotten short shift by historians.

Historians have interpreted  Henry's reaction to Anne has been
interpreted from everything from literal dislike to what he had been
informed about Anne to second thoughts about the Cleavian alliance. He
has been criticized about being very picky about his wives, having
personal contact and knowledge with five of the six well before
marriage, which was certainly rare with European monarchs. However his
grandfather, Edward IV, certainly married for love/physical attraction,
and his father, Henry VII, had the luck that Elizabeth of York fit the
mold of physical attractiveness in a queen, even though he had promised
to marry her, sight unseen.

So there was an recent English tradition of kings marrying for "love" as
opposed to the more usual dynastic/foreign relations reasons.

And poor Henry was hit with the royal reality of Anne being the
antithesis of his mother and grandmother; his grandmother had raised him
and a woman with little formal education, a large physical presence, and
no points in common interests with Henry, was unlikely to be attractive
to him in any case.

Cindy Abel

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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: iron mask
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Kate Bunting wrote:

> There was a recent article in "History today" putting forward a theory that
> the Man in the Iron Mask (who also really existed) was in fact d'Artagnan.

A book on this subject that I really enjoyed is "The Man Behind the Iron
Mask," by John Noone. It was published by St. Martin's Press and came out in
1988. I don't know how this man is regarded as a scholar, but I remember the
book as very thorough. Noone examined all the evidence and (spoiler
alert!!!) concluded that there was no prisoner in an iron mask, but there
was a prisoner who wore a mask when he was transported, and whom the jailer
liked to hint was very important indeed. Noone identifies who he thinks it
was, but puts the whole iron mask thing into the category of exaggeration
and legend. I must say, that makes the most sense, but it's not very
romantic!

The book includes very good overviews of all the popular theories, as well
as a good bibliography, maps, a chronology of related events, etc. I
recommend it.

Costume content: none.

Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: thoughts about civil war and colonial
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Civil war
   
  Lu Ann
  Thanks for that anectdotal ...   I hope I qualified it enough, because IT was something I'd "Heard".  Knowing the various southern state's possessive nature (even now)  It made anthropoligial and sociological sense to me.  
  Knowing the south's nature to treasure relics that makes sense too , ...but these were uniforms that were never used, and did not attain that "true treasure of the lost cause" status.
   
  Colonial
   
  There was someting about that dress that said Altered? to me too.  Soomething about the waist not being 18th cent.  not being abel see it for real, and not having examined too much real stuff in person, only pictures I dismissed these thoughts as it being on a dressform that was more 20th century
   
  Mia in CHarlotte

		
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Subject: RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> For balance? Mainly I don't want a post reveler getting dizzy and hurling
> more colour onto it. :P

snicker.  probably a good thought.

> And thinking of multi- colours, this reminded me of someone I know who made
> a man's Landsknecht in various Hawaiian print fabric. Bright colors too.
>

Sounds like something Lord Joel woulh have done .....

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Sorry for taking so long to reply to this.

I chose Janet Arnold's method of making the wheel because it uses the least 
amount of fabric.  This has been a pet project of mine for some time.  I 
believe that if you had to weave the fabric yourself, then you wouldn't 
waste any of it.  So a lot of my theories are based around trying to come up 
with a cutting method that has little watse fabric.

I like how Ninya uses the short bones down the centrefront edges though, and 
will try that out as mine are collapsing at the moment.  I also need to make 
yet another bum roll, mine *still* isn't large enough!

If I can talk my spousal unit into some web work this evening, there will be 
more photos up soon.  I know how to make web pages, but this is his thing, 
so I have to wait for him ;-)

Kelly/estela
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kelly/Estellas projekt


> Yeah!  I am so glad to see someone else doing these types of gowns.  In 
> doing "A Suitable Gown for Her Majesty"  *http://tinyurl.com/87qbb *
> we also chose to put the corset front under the farthingale.  Now the 
> front of this farthingale is flat.  In my research I found some wheels 
> depicted as being rather sharply tillted to the back but more often they 
> were not, which made me wonder if it wasn't the artists way of trying to 
> show what was going on behind in portraiture.   Many of the effigies with 
> smaller wheels are pretty flat, which gives a prettty good 3D idea of what 
> they looked like. Ninya Mikhalia on the other hand looks like she places 
> most of her's on the outside. 
> http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/wheelfarthingales.html
> I didn't care much for Hunisett's wheel construction.  I made several up, 
> but chose to go with Ninya's way of doing them.  Unfortunaely when doing a 
> flat front the tension isn't great enough to keep the fabric nice and 
> taut, so I chose to cover the cotuil with a little batting and the silk.
> I look forward to seeing more of your work!
>
> Sg
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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One of the local theater groups in Santa Rosa, CA, is also doing Urinetown.  Is this yet another production, or is this being costumed by one of you?  If the latter, it gives me even greater incentive to go.  :-)

~mary
(Sorry for the late reply, I got behind on this list and I'm still trying to catch up....)

h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 20:00:20 -0400
From: "Kelly Grant" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear/Urinetown


What is this...the year for depression era Urinetown???We're doing the same 
sho for the final one of the season...we'll get the scetches next week!
Kelly



>From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes" 
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 19:09:30 -0800
>
>Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the 
>depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a 
>production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era 
>feel, although the show is not actually set in any time period.  (It's 
>actually the future, I believe).
>
>I did a few cursory net searches without much luck, but thought perhaps 
>someone already had some sourcing and could save me some time for my 
>inspiration.
>
>As always, thanks in advance.
>
>angela
>+++++
>Angela F. Lazear
>Cabbage Rose Costumes
>www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
>Theatrical Costume Design





«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:»

"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 10:19:05 -0800
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Subject: [h-cost] DATE FOR Pirates o' de Carib
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hello,

Does anyone know what time the Pirates of the Caribbean was  
supposedly set in?  It's not my period.  My kids want costumes to  
wear to the premier this summer of Pirates part deaux.

Thanks!

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 01:24:34 -0600
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I don't have any sites in particular to show you and I do not know the term.
But there are garments for which I have heard refered to as bliauts.
The material looks like the Fortune' material or the very fine pleating of
some Landesknecht hemd.
The statue on the left, note the skirt.
http://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~lwittie/sca/garb/bliaut.html
This site says that light weight silks were used to make bliauts so never
mind about what I said about the light weight salmon silk.
http://web.comhem.se/~u41200125/greenbliaut.html
De

-----Original Message-----
"Mini pleated type garment???"
--Sue, missing the reference completely...



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References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPCEFGFOAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners
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Hi De,
No it was fine that you sended the URL. I read all of it, finds it 
interresting reading.
This is important to learn all those rules and unwritten manners, i was glad 
you sended it,

Thanks

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 10:14 AM
Subject: RE: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners


> -----Original Message-----
> This may be etiquette in the U.S. but it is not in court circles in 
> Britain.
> Manners may well differ in different countries. My comment was an answer 
> to
> Bjarne according to British habits. Under normal circumstances, most 
> ladies
> would be wearing gloves, so the actual kiss on the skin of the hand would
> not happen anyway. Gloves were not taken off when one was introduced to
> someone.
>
> Suzi
> __________
> As I said "Perhaps" and "some"
> Please note from the site:
> "Period books of (American) etiquette state that not removing one's gloves
> by the gentleman is perfectly proper. If your character is European,
> however, the gentleman would remove the glove from the hand that takes the
> lady's."
> This is more 1800s etiquette and from what little I understand of the
> period, much of both US coasts were fascinated by European etiquette 
> during
> the 1800s and tried to emulate it.
> Perhaps I misread Bjarne's email as I do not remember seeing Britain
> specified. I apologies for the bandwidth in posting the url. I will
> definitely make sure that I do not make that mistake again.
> De
>
>
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Bag
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 09:08:59 -0500
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Ah, but what I find interesting about this piece besides the outer design is
the placement of the tassels...and their possible function.  I may be off
the wall, but because of the slowness of total vision as the picture came up
on my screen, I  viewed the tassels attachment as a possibly second set of
drawer strings, which would make the pouching double (ie. two compartments).
Hmmm
Kathleen



 ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Bag


> Kathy Page wrote:
>
> >
> > http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/M91_165.jpg
> >
>
> I've looked at dozens of bags in the past two weeks but can't recall
> that one, sorry. It does look more 17th century (mid-late?) to me than
> 16th, though. It's metal embroidery, it's symmetrical, there's that
> stylized scrollwork and leaves... I'm in the process of trying to make
> one myself.
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
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Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners
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It might be useful to Bjarne to know that in 1775 in England, at least, hand-kissing was not necessarily literal. Witness this dialogue from Richard Brinsley Sheridan's "The Rivals." Bob Acres, a country squire eager to appear sophisticated during a visit to Bath, is meeting with his acquaintance Sir Lucius O'Trigger, a landed Irish gentleman of old-fashioned manners:

Enter Sir Lucius.
SIR LUCIUS: Mr. Acres, I am delighted to embrace you.
ACRES: My dear Sir Lucius, I kiss your hands.

It is probable that no embracing or hand-kissing actually takes place, but that these are merely verbal expressions of good-will. (Indeed, the moment on stage is much more delicious if the two gentlemen making these statements are standing half a room apart!)
So between a gentleman and a lady in 1775 I would imagine (on this theatrical basis) that hand-kissing would be essentially a courtly gesture rather than necessarily a lip-to-flesh experience, and bowing low over the lady's hand would do.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


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Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 22:04:25 -0500
From: "RON CARNEGIE" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] modes and manners
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Hello All,

    I was hesitating to answer this question, as I have no documentation to 
prove the point.  What I can say is that I do work in the !8th Century, and 
at work I was taught the prop[er procedure is to kiss the air, or blow 
across the hand, not to make any actual contact.  I suspect the kissing ones 
own hand is simply another version of the same concept.

R Carnegie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 3:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] modes and manners


> At 21:35 18/02/2006, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>Anybody know of the etiquette for 18th century. When a man is presented to 
>>a lady, and he kisses her hand, does he then actually kis the hand, or 
>>does he just pretend that he is kissing the hand?
>>I have done both, but not sure wich is correct.
>>
>>Bjarne
>
>
> When I worked on a drama/documentary on Victoria and Albert, we had one of 
> the Queen's equerries on set, giving advice on various protocol issues. He 
> showed me that when a man kisses a lady's hand, he does not kiss the hand, 
> but his own thumb! If you get the angle right this is very simple and 
> looks as though you are kissing the hand. I don't know if this was 18th 
> century practice, but was obviously 19th century and up to modern times.
>
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
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I believe all of the above fabrics can be made from silk but does anyone
know when the earliest examples of them stem from?

Are they 12th or 20th century inventions.  Just curious to know.

--
Caroline

"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop
playing."
G B Shaw
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
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On Mon, 20 Feb 2006, Caroline wrote:

> I believe all of the above fabrics can be made from silk but does
> anyone know when the earliest examples of them stem from?
> 
> Are they 12th or 20th century inventions.  Just curious to know.

I'd like to know, too, whether anyone doing historic costume would have a
use for silk chiffon or organza in various colors ... they're going for a
song at the fabric store where I work, which is in its last week of
business before moving. If they're useful, I'll pick them up for resale.

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 11:46:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] DATE FOR Pirates o' de Carib
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> hello,
>
> Does anyone know what time the Pirates of the Caribbean was
> supposedly set in?  It's not my period.  My kids want costumes to
> wear to the premier this summer of Pirates part deaux.

It looks like mid-1700's.  I am sure that they didn't pick a specific time
to portray but colonial America costumes would work.

Here is a girl's outfit:
http://snipurl.com/mrip

Here's a boy's pirate outfit:
http://snipurl.com/mrin

or boy's & girl's pirate outfit:
http://snipurl.com/mrio

And for misses' and adult sizes, Butterick seems to have the better costumes.

Good luck!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 20:56:27 +0000
From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
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Status: RO

The reason I ask is that I have been looking at the ladies on the Luttrell
Psalter and it is clear both mother and daughter on the knight on horseback
page are wearing both wimples and veils.  The fabric drawn is a transparent
white and the only thing I can think it is chiffon or tulle.

There are some very fine silk fabrics in the Textiles and Clothing (London
finds) but I was hoping for some historical perspective.

http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/ttp/ttpbooks.html

On 20/02/06, Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
>
>
> On Mon, 20 Feb 2006, Caroline wrote:
>
> > I believe all of the above fabrics can be made from silk but does
> > anyone know when the earliest examples of them stem from?
> >
> > Are they 12th or 20th century inventions.  Just curious to know.
>
> I'd like to know, too, whether anyone doing historic costume would have a
> use for silk chiffon or organza in various colors ... they're going for a
> song at the fabric store where I work, which is in its last week of
> business before moving. If they're useful, I'll pick them up for resale.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



--
Caroline

"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop
playing."
G B Shaw
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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 13:11:00 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
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Status: RO

I would expect the wimples and veils to be fine linen, in this case.

Joan

At 12:56 PM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
>The reason I ask is that I have been looking at the ladies on the Luttrell
>Psalter and it is clear both mother and daughter on the knight on horseback
>page are wearing both wimples and veils.  The fabric drawn is a transparent
>white and the only thing I can think it is chiffon or tulle.
>
>There are some very fine silk fabrics in the Textiles and Clothing (London
>finds) but I was hoping for some historical perspective.
>
>http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/ttp/ttpbooks.html
>
>On 20/02/06, Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> > On Mon, 20 Feb 2006, Caroline wrote:
> >
> > > I believe all of the above fabrics can be made from silk but does
> > > anyone know when the earliest examples of them stem from?
> > >
> > > Are they 12th or 20th century inventions.  Just curious to know.
> >
> > I'd like to know, too, whether anyone doing historic costume would have a
> > use for silk chiffon or organza in various colors ... they're going for a
> > song at the fabric store where I work, which is in its last week of
> > business before moving. If they're useful, I'll pick them up for resale.
> >
> > --Robin
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
>--
>Caroline
>
>"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop
>playing."
>G B Shaw
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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Status: RO

My daughter has chosen the portrait of young Princess Elizabeth for her costume. It is the pink one, Flemish School 1546-1547.
Can anyone tell me what colors the sleeves and the front panel are? They seem very pink to me. http://www.sapphireandsage.com/necklaces.html
I can't tell if it has a round or pointed bodices. What do you call these kind of sleeves. Any suggestions of how to make of pattern for the sleeves? I found several sites that had sleeve variations but none like these.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: DATE FOR pirates o' de Carib
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I believe the verdict has been that although many of the characters are well-dressed for their time period, each character seems to have a different time period, ranging from the 1680s through the 1750s or thereabouts. And the pirate characters have a mix of lovely authentic garments mixed with completely fantasy ones in the same outfits. Here are a couple of good sites about the costumes: 
 
http://www.kipar.org/piratical-resources/potc-costumes.html
 
http://www.costumersguide.com/cr_potc.shtml
 
http://www.outnow.ch/Media/Img/2003/PiratesOfTheCaribbean/
 
And don't forget www.gentlemenoffortune.com for some real research into what pirates would have worn.
 
Tea Rose
 
 
P.S. My friends and I are going to be pirates for Costume Con. If you'd like a list of resources and vendors we're using for our costumes, let me know off-list.
 
 

From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: [h-cost] DATE FOR Pirates o' de Carib

Does anyone know what time the Pirates of the Caribbean was  
supposedly set in?  
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> My daughter has chosen the portrait of young Princess Elizabeth for her
> costume. It is the pink one, Flemish School 1546-1547.
> Can anyone tell me what colors the sleeves and the front panel are? They
> seem very pink to me. http://www.sapphireandsage.com/necklaces.html

I saw this painting in the National Portrait Gallery London several years
ago and the main dress is reddish orange and the forepart and lower
sleeves are gold velvet cutwork.

> I can't tell if it has a round or pointed bodices.

The bodice is pointed and the skirt is attached.  The skirt is flat in
front and has cartridge or knife pleats starting at the sides.  It would
have a full back skirt and probably a train.

>What do you call these
> kind of sleeves. Any suggestions of how to make of pattern for the
> sleeves?

I don't think the sleeves have a particular name other than maybe "tudor
sleeves".  The over sleeve (reddish orange) is a very large bell shape
which was probably a revival of the medieval bell sleeves.  They are then
folded back and pinned on the upper arm.

The lower sleeves (gold cutwork) are debated as to how they are made.  My
research found that they are a separate sleeve accent that probably ties
to a ribbon on the inside of the bell sleeve.  It can be a round-ish
stuffed ball or a finished fancy fabric that folds over the arm and ties
on the bottom.

There is a different tudor portait that shows that there is a corner
showing near the elbow.  So it would seem that the sleeves do not extend
all the way to the top of the arm.

I can send you a picture of my lower sleeves and whole tudor outfit if you
want to e-mail me privately.

Hope that helps!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Anne of cleves and seeing things in context
	Re:FlemishRE: tippets ...
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 17:07:54 -0600
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It was said that Henry VIII had problems with Anne's Germanic body shape and
was heard to once comment that her form was that of a whore. It seems he
preferred the small breasted, virginal looking body with his women. This was
from a BBC program on Henry.
De

-----Original Message-----
Thanks for the info on Anne of Cleves portrait by Holbein. Tudor costume
is my big area of interest and Anne of Cleves(by reason of her short
tenure as queen consort)has gotten short shift by historians.



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] DATE FOR Pirates o' de Carib
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About mid 1700s though it looks like it could be getting into the late
1700s.
Some patterns.
Standard halloween
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B3236=x&TI=10
013&page=8 B3236

A bit cheeze but you can alter it.
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B6295=x&TI=10
013&page=9

http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4163.htm?tab=costumes&page=4

Men and boys
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4626.htm?tab=costumes&page=3

If a bit more serious
http://www.patternsoftime.com/cat62.html
http://www.patternsoftime.com/cat60.html
http://www.longago.com/colonialmen.html
Didn't see girl size but
http://www.longago.com/colonialwomen.html
Children
http://www.longago.com/colonialchildren.html

De

-----Original Message-----
> hello,
>
> Does anyone know what time the Pirates of the Caribbean was
> supposedly set in?  It's not my period.  My kids want costumes to
> wear to the premier this summer of Pirates part deaux.


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	<1101.67.169.138.79.1140476018.squirrel@webmail.inreach.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 18:40:15 -0500
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Thank you for the description. I still wonder how the sleeves are attached. 
There is no strap showing. Is the pearl necklace in her bodice or is it 
attached to the edges of a very translarent partlet? One description said 
the beading trim was attached to the under layer. What under layer? Was it 
attached to a chemise or smock? I don't see any of it except for the poofs 
of white.
I found a pdf of the costume by Nina ????. It has a white chemise with 
blackwork on it as suggested undergarments. Is this right? I don't know. 
Since she does so much research and garb work, I assume she knows what she 
is talking about in this portrait.
Is she wearing earrings or is the trim on her hood?
I found the perfect cloth that is the same color and pattern in the 
portrait. That was a big start on the costume. I don't know if i can find 
gfabric for the front and undersleeves. I guess I could embroider it myself. 
I'd rather not have to do that much work by hand.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


>
>> My daughter has chosen the portrait of young Princess Elizabeth for her
>> costume. It is the pink one, Flemish School 1546-1547.
>> Can anyone tell me what colors the sleeves and the front panel are? They
>> seem very pink to me. http://www.sapphireandsage.com/necklaces.html
>
> I saw this painting in the National Portrait Gallery London several years
> ago and the main dress is reddish orange and the forepart and lower
> sleeves are gold velvet cutwork.
>
>> I can't tell if it has a round or pointed bodices.
>
> The bodice is pointed and the skirt is attached.  The skirt is flat in
> front and has cartridge or knife pleats starting at the sides.  It would
> have a full back skirt and probably a train.
>
>>What do you call these
>> kind of sleeves. Any suggestions of how to make of pattern for the
>> sleeves?
>
> I don't think the sleeves have a particular name other than maybe "tudor
> sleeves".  The over sleeve (reddish orange) is a very large bell shape
> which was probably a revival of the medieval bell sleeves.  They are then
> folded back and pinned on the upper arm.
>
> The lower sleeves (gold cutwork) are debated as to how they are made.  My
> research found that they are a separate sleeve accent that probably ties
> to a ribbon on the inside of the bell sleeve.  It can be a round-ish
> stuffed ball or a finished fancy fabric that folds over the arm and ties
> on the bottom.
>
> There is a different tudor portait that shows that there is a corner
> showing near the elbow.  So it would seem that the sleeves do not extend
> all the way to the top of the arm.
>
> I can send you a picture of my lower sleeves and whole tudor outfit if you
> want to e-mail me privately.
>
> Hope that helps!
>
> Diana
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> "Become the change you want to see in the world."
> --Ghandi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anne of cleves and seeing things in contextRe:FlemishRE:
	tippets ...
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> It was said that Henry VIII had problems with Anne's Germanic body shape 
> and
> was heard to once comment that her form was that of a whore. It seems he
> preferred the small breasted, virginal looking body with his women. This 
> was
> from a BBC program on Henry.
> De


Interesting--I've always heard from "Them" that it was sort of the other way 
around; H8 got the impression of a nicely rounded woman from Holbein's 
painting, then found himself with a thin, non-curvy woman... at which point 
he supposedly got mad at Holbein and fired him.  Has anyone else heard this 
version?  The other version does make sense, based on the portraits of his 
other wives (except CofA).

-E House 

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My impression was mid to late 1500s. Though the tassels are something that I
would have seen on some Germanic pouches.
http://www.ledermuseum.de/vollbild/seiten/42_e.htm

De
-----Original Message-----
Or even the 19th C? The overall scrolling of the fleur de lis design with
the addition of some beading would place this for me, in the 1870s/80s.

Kathleen
> >Kathy Page wrote:
> >
> >>http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/M91_165.jpg
> >


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> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 14:03:45 -0600 (CST)
> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> 	<Pine.LNX.4.10.10602201402440.23909-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> 
> On Mon, 20 Feb 2006, Caroline wrote:
> 
> > I believe all of the above fabrics can be made from silk but does
> > anyone know when the earliest examples of them stem from?
> > 
> > Are they 12th or 20th century inventions.  Just curious to know.
> 
> I'd like to know, too, whether anyone doing historic costume would have a
> use for silk chiffon or organza in various colors ... they're going for a
> song at the fabric store where I work, which is in its last week of
> business before moving. If they're useful, I'll pick them up for resale.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> 

I can always use natural or white organza for linings, or dye it for
some other purpose!  I could probably use chiffon, too.  I bet others
feel the same way, especially those who don't only do period costuming, or
aren't extremely anal about authenticity.

Kate
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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At 23:40 20/02/2006, you wrote:
>Thank you for the description. I still wonder how the sleeves are 
>attached. There is no strap showing. Is the pearl necklace in her 
>bodice or is it attached to the edges of a very translarent partlet? 
>One description said the beading trim was attached to the under 
>layer. What under layer? Was it attached to a chemise or smock? I 
>don't see any of it except for the poofs of white.
>I found a pdf of the costume by Nina ????. It has a white chemise 
>with blackwork on it as suggested undergarments. Is this right? I 
>don't know. Since she does so much research and garb work, I assume 
>she knows what she is talking about in this portrait.
>Is she wearing earrings or is the trim on her hood?
>I found the perfect cloth that is the same color and pattern in the 
>portrait. That was a big start on the costume. I don't know if i can 
>find gfabric for the front and undersleeves. I guess I could 
>embroider it myself. I'd rather not have to do that much work by hand.
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 5:53 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>
>
>>
>>>My daughter has chosen the portrait of young Princess Elizabeth for her
>>>costume. It is the pink one, Flemish School 1546-1547.
>>>Can anyone tell me what colors the sleeves and the front panel are? They
>>>seem very pink to me. http://www.sapphireandsage.com/necklaces.html
>>
>>I saw this painting in the National Portrait Gallery London several years
>>ago and the main dress is reddish orange and the forepart and lower
>>sleeves are gold velvet cutwork.
>>
>>>I can't tell if it has a round or pointed bodices.
>>
>>The bodice is pointed and the skirt is attached.  The skirt is flat in
>>front and has cartridge or knife pleats starting at the sides.  It would
>>have a full back skirt and probably a train.
>>
>>>What do you call these
>>>kind of sleeves. Any suggestions of how to make of pattern for the
>>>sleeves?
>>
>>I don't think the sleeves have a particular name other than maybe "tudor
>>sleeves".  The over sleeve (reddish orange) is a very large bell shape
>>which was probably a revival of the medieval bell sleeves.  They are then
>>folded back and pinned on the upper arm.
>>
>>The lower sleeves (gold cutwork) are debated as to how they are made.  My
>>research found that they are a separate sleeve accent that probably ties
>>to a ribbon on the inside of the bell sleeve.  It can be a round-ish
>>stuffed ball or a finished fancy fabric that folds over the arm and ties
>>on the bottom.
>>
>>There is a different tudor portait that shows that there is a corner
>>showing near the elbow.  So it would seem that the sleeves do not extend
>>all the way to the top of the arm.
>>
>>I can send you a picture of my lower sleeves and whole tudor outfit if you
>>want to e-mail me privately.
>>
>>Hope that helps!


The "cutwork" is actually described by Janet Arnold as "cloth of 
gold" and you can see the tiny "purles" close up, like little springs.

You will find patterns for sleeves like this in Hunnisett, "Period 
Costume for "Stage and Screen 1500-1800".  I believe Ninya Mikhaila 
may have sleeves like this too, but her book has not yet been 
published as far as I know.The Hunnisett sleeves do work - I've used 
the pattern several times, and she gives several variations.

  You can see a version of the sleeves here 
http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=/henry-Vlll-and-anne-boleyn.jpg 
These are pinned very high on the arm as the young lady was using a 
bow on the day the photo was taken.

Suzi 


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kelly grant wrote:

> I like how Ninya uses the short bones down the centrefront edges 
> though, and will try that out as mine are collapsing at the moment.  I 
> also need to make yet another bum roll, mine *still* isn't large enough!

Something we discovered in the process of making the bumroll is that you 
can forsake a very large one (if you read my notes you will see it isn't 
really necessary) provided you stuff it very hard and make use of the 
bumpad underneath it.  I stuff mine the way I stuff cloth sculptured 
dolls.  Very firm-I see many bumrolls that are really squishy....just 
doesn't work as well. 

>
> If I can talk my spousal unit into some web work this evening, there 
> will be more photos up soon.  I know how to make web pages, but this 
> is his thing, so I have to wait for him ;-)

Looking forward to it!.

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Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners
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Status: RO

Thanks for all your responses to my questions. It has ben interresting 
reading for me.
I am preparing myself in manners because i am going to visit Mauritia and 
Kim Kirchner in Germany at next weekend. They are having a costume party 
weekend, and i have butterflies in my belly because i look so much forwards 
to this.
Thanks all

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners


> It might be useful to Bjarne to know that in 1775 in England, at least, 
> hand-kissing was not necessarily literal. Witness this dialogue from 
> Richard Brinsley Sheridan's "The Rivals." Bob Acres, a country squire 
> eager to appear sophisticated during a visit to Bath, is meeting with his 
> acquaintance Sir Lucius O'Trigger, a landed Irish gentleman of 
> old-fashioned manners:
>
> Enter Sir Lucius.
> SIR LUCIUS: Mr. Acres, I am delighted to embrace you.
> ACRES: My dear Sir Lucius, I kiss your hands.
>
> It is probable that no embracing or hand-kissing actually takes place, but 
> that these are merely verbal expressions of good-will. (Indeed, the moment 
> on stage is much more delicious if the two gentlemen making these 
> statements are standing half a room apart!)
> So between a gentleman and a lady in 1775 I would imagine (on this 
> theatrical basis) that hand-kissing would be essentially a courtly gesture 
> rather than necessarily a lip-to-flesh experience, and bowing low over the 
> lady's hand would do.
>
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 21:33:30 +0000
From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
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Status: RO

Why Joan - however fine linen gets I've never seen it transparent.  Silk can
be transparent and is evidenced in the archaeological record.

It is only these women where the veil appears transparent - all the other
pictures I have looked at for example

Holkham PBB
http://tinyurl.com/rlwa6

the Mac Bible
http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/images/maciejowski/leaf44/otm44ra.gif

Both of these show opaque veils which I am quite prepared to believe is
linen.



On 20/02/06, Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
>
> I would expect the wimples and veils to be fine linen, in this case.
>
> Joan
>
> At 12:56 PM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
> >The reason I ask is that I have been looking at the ladies on the
> Luttrell
> >Psalter and it is clear both mother and daughter on the knight on
> horseback
> >page are wearing both wimples and veils.  The fabric drawn is a
> transparent
> >white and the only thing I can think it is chiffon or tulle.
> >
> >There are some very fine silk fabrics in the Textiles and Clothing
> (London
> >finds) but I was hoping for some historical perspective.
> >
> >http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/ttp/ttpbooks.html
> >
> >On 20/02/06, Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > On Mon, 20 Feb 2006, Caroline wrote:
> > >
> > > > I believe all of the above fabrics can be made from silk but does
> > > > anyone know when the earliest examples of them stem from?
> > > >
> > > > Are they 12th or 20th century inventions.  Just curious to know.
> > >
> > > I'd like to know, too, whether anyone doing historic costume would
> have a
> > > use for silk chiffon or organza in various colors ... they're going
> for a
> > > song at the fabric store where I work, which is in its last week of
> > > business before moving. If they're useful, I'll pick them up for
> resale.
> > >
> > > --Robin
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >Caroline
> >
> >"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop
> >playing."
> >G B Shaw
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



--
Caroline

"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop
playing."
G B Shaw
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 17:03:45 -0600
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Status: RO

I've seen various reproductions of this portrait and Elizabeth's dress
is more crimson(red) than pink.

Try Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett for
modern scale patterns for this ensemble. The probable faux undersleeves
and upper sleeve lining and underskirt or more likely, forepart,  appear
to be a gold on gold brocade or cut velvet.

The bell, trumpet, or Anne Boleyn style oversleeves, began the 16th
century as simple long oversleeves and eventually  oversleeve and
undersleeve/faux undersleeve components got more elaborate.

The bodice is probably the long V waist, with the gold, pearled and
jewelled girdle, covering the join(or hook and eye fastening) of bodice
to skirt.

To accurately make this costume is a lot of work.

I did a similar version with the changes needed to bring it up to the
1570's several years ago and it is a lot of work, even for the 24"
porcelain doll I made to create it for.

First make the shift. You have to make an exact squared neck that a bit
of it will appear or not, depending on the portrait you are copying. I
made mine of fine cotton as a linen to the scale of the doll couldn't be
bought to the limited quantity I needed for a fine linen. The shift was
about knee length. Not sure of the white undersleeve construction and I
was doing an 1570's, not super wide below the elbow 1540-1560 version, I
did the shift sleeves cut wider at the top than a "normal" shift sleeve
and much wider at the bottom, gathering each bottom into a cuff with
drawstrings, not elastic.

Next was the stays(or corset). My doll was cloth-bodied and firmly
stuffed, but I made it complete with stiffining thin doll-scale
synthetic horsehair in channels, and handmade sewn eyelets for back
lacing and shoulder strap closure.  Well worth the work, as seven years
later, the stuffing in this area has not dropped or settled. Stays
helped the body fight aging and gravity.

Somewhat easier to make for the doll was the hip pad and farthingale. I
used a linen for both and using Hunnisett's pattern, cheated by sewing
double folded bias binding along the marked lines all around in six
graduated layers(think of a 19th hoopskirt) to make channels. I used
more doll scale narrow horsehair inseted in the channels.

I made undersleeves of a pink brocade and a matching forepart. Instead
of authentically pinning each in place, I sewed the undersleeves to
narrow silk ribbons that were tacked in place on the shift sleeves. I
had to engineer this after I did the sleeves on the main gown. Fussy
work and probably not authentic, but it was a competition doll and
pining all into place would have looked as if I didn't have time to sew
it. The forepart I hem stitched to the farthingale--it was just a little
larger than the  main gown's overskirt opening and had to be cut to its
final measurement and installed after I had finished the main gown.

Main gown of bodice, oversleeves, shoulder wings, and overskirt was
lined and sewn together as one piece, again for competition. Back
fastened with hand-sewn eyelets.

A partlet, figure-8 ruff and French hood finished the look, along with
handmade shoes and feather fan.  Purchased stockings were faux fastened
with cross-gartered silk ribbons.

Hope this helps.

Cindy Abel



 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Becky
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 3:25 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth

My daughter has chosen the portrait of young Princess Elizabeth for her
costume. It is the pink one, Flemish School 1546-1547.
Can anyone tell me what colors the sleeves and the front panel are? They
seem very pink to me. http://www.sapphireandsage.com/necklaces.html
I can't tell if it has a round or pointed bodices. What do you call
these kind of sleeves. Any suggestions of how to make of pattern for the
sleeves? I found several sites that had sleeve variations but none like
these.
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
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Silk Tulle was invented in the last quarter of 18th century.
Tulle (name of a french town) was originally a bobbin lace mesh, then they 
invented a machine to do it much faster.
Its just made with cross- twist- twist- twist. cross-twist-twist-twist and 
so on................
I believe that the words chiffon, organza was invented in 19th century, but 
i think the fabrics are older with different names.
Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Caroline" <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 7:19 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza


I believe all of the above fabrics can be made from silk but does anyone
know when the earliest examples of them stem from?

Are they 12th or 20th century inventions.  Just curious to know.

--
Caroline

"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop
playing."
G B Shaw
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk chiffon and organza
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On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 saka@toysmakeuspowerful.com wrote:

> I can always use natural or white organza for linings, or dye it for
> some other purpose!  I could probably use chiffon, too.  I bet others
> feel the same way, especially those who don't only do period
> costuming, or aren't extremely anal about authenticity.

Since there's been such a response, I'll go in tomorrow and buy up the
remaining white chiffon and organza (if there is any) and probably some
colors too.

If anyone has a want list on colors, e-mail me directly -- and tell me
what lengths you need for the piece to be useful, since some of the
lengths will be short (that's all we have left). Some of the colors we had
(maybe not still there, I don't know) were pretty wild: hot pink,
goldenrod, lime green, as well as more boring pastels and beiges. I have
no idea what is useful for different periods, though.

Bear in mind too that these are lightweight, nearly transparent silks. The
chiffon is flimsy and floaty; the organza stiffer. But you can't make a
dress out of them (as someone who wrote me seemed to think!).

Figure $3-$4/yard plus postage. Our silks normally range up to $11/yard.

--Robin

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Bag
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 13:14:09 +1300
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> My impression was mid to late 1500s. Though the tassels are something that
I
> would have seen on some Germanic pouches.
> http://www.ledermuseum.de/vollbild/seiten/42_e.htm

> > >> http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/M91_165.jpg

I have saved that image too. Is it from Lacma?

Yep:
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/C_t02_mm/full/M91_165.jpg

http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=record&id=69221&type=101
      Artist France
      Title Woman's Purse
      Date 1595
      Media Silk velvet, metallic thread, pearls, silk taffeta
      Department Costume and Textiles
      Place Made France

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPMEGGFOAA.otsisto@socket.net>
	<004501c63677$c7384680$e100a8c0@compaqub>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anne of cleves and seeing things in
	contextRe:FlemishRE:tippets ...
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 01:22:38 +0100
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Hi
Yes i heard this also. In the same program wich also was showed here in 
Denmark, he told us that Henry complainted of her flat hanging breasts. 
Those were the words, sorry ladies.......... He could not get any lust for 
her att all............
Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 12:45 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anne of cleves and seeing things in 
contextRe:FlemishRE:tippets ...


> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
>> It was said that Henry VIII had problems with Anne's Germanic body shape 
>> and
>> was heard to once comment that her form was that of a whore. It seems he
>> preferred the small breasted, virginal looking body with his women. This 
>> was
>> from a BBC program on Henry.
>> De
>
>
> Interesting--I've always heard from "Them" that it was sort of the other 
> way around; H8 got the impression of a nicely rounded woman from Holbein's 
> painting, then found himself with a thin, non-curvy woman... at which 
> point he supposedly got mad at Holbein and fired him.  Has anyone else 
> heard this version?  The other version does make sense, based on the 
> portraits of his other wives (except CofA).
>
> -E House
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] silk chiffon and tulle
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In 18th century they used a lot of silk gauge wich is a very light 
transparent silk fabric used for all those trimmings and decorations they 
used all over at the second part of 18th century. A nice natural white 
chiffon would be a good substitute for this.......

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
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Actually the owner of Calontir trim and I was reminded that it was someone
else who made it for him.
De

-----Original Message-----
> And thinking of multi- colours, this reminded me of someone I know who
made
> a man's Landsknecht in various Hawaiian print fabric. Bright colors too.
>

Sounds like something Lord Joel woulh have done .....

Jerusha


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners
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Have a good time, Bjarne.  And post some pictures if you can.
Joan

At 11:37 AM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
>Thanks for all your responses to my questions. It has ben 
>interresting reading for me.
>I am preparing myself in manners because i am going to visit 
>Mauritia and Kim Kirchner in Germany at next weekend. They are 
>having a costume party weekend, and i have butterflies in my belly 
>because i look so much forwards to this.
>Thanks all
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 5:00 PM
>Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners
>
>
>>It might be useful to Bjarne to know that in 1775 in England, at 
>>least, hand-kissing was not necessarily literal. Witness this 
>>dialogue from Richard Brinsley Sheridan's "The Rivals." Bob Acres, 
>>a country squire eager to appear sophisticated during a visit to 
>>Bath, is meeting with his acquaintance Sir Lucius O'Trigger, a 
>>landed Irish gentleman of old-fashioned manners:
>>
>>Enter Sir Lucius.
>>SIR LUCIUS: Mr. Acres, I am delighted to embrace you.
>>ACRES: My dear Sir Lucius, I kiss your hands.
>>
>>It is probable that no embracing or hand-kissing actually takes 
>>place, but that these are merely verbal expressions of good-will. 
>>(Indeed, the moment on stage is much more delicious if the two 
>>gentlemen making these statements are standing half a room apart!)
>>So between a gentleman and a lady in 1775 I would imagine (on this 
>>theatrical basis) that hand-kissing would be essentially a courtly 
>>gesture rather than necessarily a lip-to-flesh experience, and 
>>bowing low over the lady's hand would do.
>>
>>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
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Linen also can be fine enough to be transparent.

Joan

At 01:33 PM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
>Why Joan - however fine linen gets I've never seen it transparent.  Silk can
>be transparent and is evidenced in the archaeological record.
>
>It is only these women where the veil appears transparent - all the other
>pictures I have looked at for example
>
>Holkham PBB
>http://tinyurl.com/rlwa6
>
>the Mac Bible
>http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/images/maciejowski/leaf44/otm44ra.gif
>
>Both of these show opaque veils which I am quite prepared to believe is
>linen.
>
>
>
>On 20/02/06, Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
> >
> > I would expect the wimples and veils to be fine linen, in this case.
> >
> > Joan
> >
> > At 12:56 PM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
> > >The reason I ask is that I have been looking at the ladies on the
> > Luttrell
> > >Psalter and it is clear both mother and daughter on the knight on
> > horseback
> > >page are wearing both wimples and veils.  The fabric drawn is a
> > transparent
> > >white and the only thing I can think it is chiffon or tulle.
> > >
> > >There are some very fine silk fabrics in the Textiles and Clothing
> > (London
> > >finds) but I was hoping for some historical perspective.
> > >
> > >http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/ttp/ttpbooks.html
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Made in France...I wonder how it would look if you changes the fabric color
and wore it with this?
http://www.marileecody.com/isabel.jpg

De
-----Original Message-----
I have saved that image too. Is it from Lacma?

Yep:
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/C_t02_mm/full/M91_165.jpg

http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=record&id=69221&
type=101
      Artist France
      Title Woman's Purse
      Date 1595
      Media Silk velvet, metallic thread, pearls, silk taffeta
      Department Costume and Textiles
      Place Made France

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: Urinetown (was 1930's factory wear)
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Mine is in Palo Alto, Ca.  I can't speak for Kelly.  There is also a version 
at my daughter's old performing arts department here in Newark... I think 
when Broadway releases these shows they get snapped up by everyone!

If it's not terribly far from you, come see ours in Palo Alto at the Lucie 
Stern. It opens the 28th of April.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mary" <hanstar88@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 10:14 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT: Urinetown (was 1930's factory wear)


> One of the local theater groups in Santa Rosa, CA, is also doing 
> Urinetown.  Is this yet another production, or is this being costumed by 
> one of you?  If the latter, it gives me even greater incentive to go.  :-)
>
> ~mary
> (Sorry for the late reply, I got behind on this list and I'm still trying 
> to catch up....)
>
> h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
> Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 20:00:20 -0400
> From: "Kelly Grant"
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear/Urinetown
>
>
> What is this...the year for depression era Urinetown???We're doing the 
> same
> sho for the final one of the season...we'll get the scetches next week!
> Kelly
>
>
>
>>From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes"
>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
>>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 19:09:30 -0800
>>
>>Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the
>>depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a
>>production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era
>>feel, although the show is not actually set in any time period.  (It's
>>actually the future, I believe).
>>
>>I did a few cursory net searches without much luck, but thought perhaps
>>someone already had some sourcing and could save me some time for my
>>inspiration.
>>
>>As always, thanks in advance.
>>
>>angela
>>+++++
>>Angela F. Lazear
>>Cabbage Rose Costumes
>>www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
>>Theatrical Costume Design
>
>
>
>
>
> «:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:»
>
> "Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
> ~ Jane Austen
>
> "Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've 
> forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> Actually the owner of Calontir trim and I was reminded that it was someone
> else who made it for him.

Drix.  Hmmm.  Could have been Joel, I guess.

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
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University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Feb 20 21:07:35 2006
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPOEFCFOAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 19:13:33 -0700
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Oh.  I think I get it.  You mean "garments with tiny pleats," and not "tiny,
pleated garments."  Gotta love the English language! ;o)
I *thought* you were referring to the now-discredited theory of a "corselet"
being worn around the torso of people in bliaut.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 12:24 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bliaut silk natural dyed colour question


> I don't have any sites in particular to show you and I do not know the
term.
> But there are garments for which I have heard refered to as bliauts.
> The material looks like the Fortune' material or the very fine pleating of
> some Landesknecht hemd.
> The statue on the left, note the skirt.
> http://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~lwittie/sca/garb/bliaut.html
> This site says that light weight silks were used to make bliauts so never
> mind about what I said about the light weight salmon silk.
> http://web.comhem.se/~u41200125/greenbliaut.html
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> "Mini pleated type garment???"
> --Sue, missing the reference completely...


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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Status: RO

When did you see it in the Portrait Gallery? I was in England in 2002, and
saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no orange to it
at all.
The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base "cut and
voided" velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is gold
thread (looks distinctly metallic).
--Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there....

----- Original Message -----
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>
> I saw this painting in the National Portrait Gallery London several years
> ago and the main dress is reddish orange and the forepart and lower
> sleeves are gold velvet cutwork.
>
> > I can't tell if it has a round or pointed bodices.
>
> The bodice is pointed and the skirt is attached.  The skirt is flat in
> front and has cartridge or knife pleats starting at the sides.  It would
> have a full back skirt and probably a train.
>
> >What do you call these
> > kind of sleeves. Any suggestions of how to make of pattern for the
> > sleeves?
>
> I don't think the sleeves have a particular name other than maybe "tudor
> sleeves".  The over sleeve (reddish orange) is a very large bell shape
> which was probably a revival of the medieval bell sleeves.  They are then
> folded back and pinned on the upper arm.
>
> The lower sleeves (gold cutwork) are debated as to how they are made.  My
> research found that they are a separate sleeve accent that probably ties
> to a ribbon on the inside of the bell sleeve.  It can be a round-ish
> stuffed ball or a finished fancy fabric that folds over the arm and ties
> on the bottom.
>
> There is a different tudor portait that shows that there is a corner
> showing near the elbow.  So it would seem that the sleeves do not extend
> all the way to the top of the arm.
>
> I can send you a picture of my lower sleeves and whole tudor outfit if you
> want to e-mail me privately.
>
> Hope that helps!
>
> Diana


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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 18:45:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> When did you see it in the Portrait Gallery? I was in England in 2002, and
> saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no orange to
> it
> at all.
> The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base "cut and
> voided" velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is gold
> thread (looks distinctly metallic).
> --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there....

Hmmm...maybe I was mistaken.  I know I saw the Princess Mary Tudor
portrait while I was there.  I thought I saw the Elizabeth one, too.

But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool because I
discovered that her chemise had redwork on the cuffs!  I hadn't heard of
redwork before then and the photos I had seen of the painting didn't have
enough detail to show it.   Very cool!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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Quoting Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>:

> When did you see it in the Portrait Gallery? I was in England in 2002, and
> saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no orange to it
> at all.
> The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base "cut and
> voided" velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is gold
> thread (looks distinctly metallic).
> --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there....

Wouldn't be the first painting that there were 2 of .....

Jerusha
-----
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University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: OT: Urinetown (was 1930's factory wear)
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A friend of mine is in that! I'm going.
SharonC.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cabbage Rose Costumes
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 5:06 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: Urinetown (was 1930's factory wear)


Mine is in Palo Alto, Ca.  I can't speak for Kelly.  There is also a version

at my daughter's old performing arts department here in Newark... I think 
when Broadway releases these shows they get snapped up by everyone!

If it's not terribly far from you, come see ours in Palo Alto at the Lucie 
Stern. It opens the 28th of April.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mary" <hanstar88@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 10:14 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT: Urinetown (was 1930's factory wear)


> One of the local theater groups in Santa Rosa, CA, is also doing
> Urinetown.  Is this yet another production, or is this being costumed by 
> one of you?  If the latter, it gives me even greater incentive to go.  :-)
>
> ~mary
> (Sorry for the late reply, I got behind on this list and I'm still 
> trying
> to catch up....)
>
> h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
> Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 20:00:20 -0400
> From: "Kelly Grant"
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear/Urinetown
>
>
> What is this...the year for depression era Urinetown???We're doing the
> same
> sho for the final one of the season...we'll get the scetches next week!
> Kelly
>
>
>
>>From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes"
>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
>>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 19:09:30 -0800
>>
>>Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for 
>>the depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing 
>>a production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression 
>>era feel, although the show is not actually set in any time period.  
>>(It's actually the future, I believe).
>>
>>I did a few cursory net searches without much luck, but thought 
>>perhaps someone already had some sourcing and could save me some time 
>>for my inspiration.
>>
>>As always, thanks in advance.
>>
>>angela
>>+++++
>>Angela F. Lazear
>>Cabbage Rose Costumes
>>www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
>>Theatrical Costume Design
>
>
>
>
>
> «:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:»
>
> "Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked." ~ Jane 
> Austen
>
> "Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've 
> forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re: Silk chiffon and organza and tulle
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for what it's worth, according to my cunningtons and beard, tulle is a fine 
silk bobbin net first made by machine at Nottingham in 1768.

Organza doesn't appear (the closest is organdie).

and chiffon is dated to 1890, and described as "a delicate silk barege or 
grenadine"  (both of those are attributed to 19th C too).

they're still really nice fabrics though.

it could be a very very fine wool depicted in the pictures.  I've seen wools 
that are close to transparent, and my own veil, though not transparent, is 
finer than most linens, even though it's 100% wool.

debs
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk chiffon and organza
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In a message dated 2/20/2006 7:05:50 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
saka@toysmakeuspowerful.com writes:

I could  probably use chiffon, too.  I bet others
feel the same way, especially  those who don't only do period costuming,


You forget....20th century is "period". Chiffon is just ideal for many  
teens, 20s and 30s fashions....and even 50s, 60s and 70s. Why did I leave the  40s 
out?
 
And organdy is a standard for children's clothes from the turn of the 19th  
century to the present [especially in the 50s].
 
I've seen 1860s outfits of silk gauze....and silk chiffon could work for  
these light outfits.
 
Organdy makes great petticoats or ruffles for petticoats. And, as someone  
mentioned, is a great stabilizer to put in garments of light  fabrics.
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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 22:59:17 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Sheer fabrics are very old
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"Gauze, a thin transparent material of silk, linen or cotton, is first
mentioned in 1279 under the name gazzatum; it was among the fabrics
considered too luxurious for monks to wear. The name may come from the town
of Gaza, and the cloth may be of the same type as the famous "veils of Cos"
with which Caesar bade Cleopatra cover herself, for decency's sake, when she
visited Rome in 43 B.C."

http://www.saudiaramcoworld.com/issue/198703/fabrics.from.the.middle.east.ht
m

I remembered reading about this in "The Fabric Catalogue" by Martin
Hardingham.

Martha




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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 21:19:43 -0700
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Status: RO

Misremembering happens to all of us! <g> Seriously, though, it could be two
different copies--I know that some of the portraits of Elizabeth I (as
queen) and her sister, Mary, were done multipe times--there's that great
chapter in QEUnlocked that talks about them.  So it could be that,
especially since so many of our details are similar.  And maybe it explains
why some of the reproductions seem so pink and others more orange? I don't
know about "yours"--we only had time for the National Gallery of Art (which
was on its last day of a Truly Cool Exhibit on Fabric in Portraits), and
didn't make it over to the Portrait Gallery.  Well, maybe we could have, if
I hadn't been making a complete pig of myself in the bookstore. <weg>
I've seen monochrome embroidery done in red in a couple of portraits in my
books, and a little of it in the Textile Rooms at the V&A.  A friend of mine
says it's known as "morisco" work (spelling optional at this time of the
evening ;o) I *think* I've got a copy of a painting of Mary I with red
embroidery somewhere.  I *think.*  (sorry...bad case of chocolate cravings
paired with knitting fatigue from the Knitting Olympics! LOL!)
--Sue
p.s.  I like your Ghandi quote....

----- Original Message -----
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


>
> > When did you see it in the Portrait Gallery? I was in England in 2002,
and
> > saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no orange to
> > it
> > at all.
> > The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base "cut
and
> > voided" velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is gold
> > thread (looks distinctly metallic).
> > --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there....
>
> Hmmm...maybe I was mistaken.  I know I saw the Princess Mary Tudor
> portrait while I was there.  I thought I saw the Elizabeth one, too.
>
> But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool because I
> discovered that her chemise had redwork on the cuffs!  I hadn't heard of
> redwork before then and the photos I had seen of the painting didn't have
> enough detail to show it.   Very cool!
>
> Diana
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> "Become the change you want to see in the world."
> --Ghandi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk chiffon and tulle
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When I got my set of swatches from Dharma a couple of years ago, I was 
surprised to find out that the barely there veiling in all those Italian 
portraits was a real fabric.  (My taste runs to linen and wool with 
interesting weaves.)
Dharma has white silk gauze in two weights and widths, here: 
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1639206-AA.shtml   and they'll send 
you a swatch for just a quarter.
                -Helen/Aidan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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Status: RO

Do you think that Elizabeth had a partlet in the 1547 portrait? I can't tell 
from the images I have. If she does it must have been majorly transparent.
I found a fabric that is almost the same color of the fabric in the 
portrait, down to the overall pattern. I couldn't remember what the sleeves 
looked like so I didn't buy the sleeve fabrics. I printed the image I have 
and everything turned out VERY pink. I found a better image and can see the 
true colors now. I know the gown will be work but well worth it if it looks 
the way it should.
I took a class in textiles where we studied ancient fabrics. It covered 
Peruvian, Chinese/Japanese and others. One fabric in the Japanese files that 
I remember had the metallic threads in loops. We covered how to make the 
same effect nowadays. It would be a lot of extra work so I plan to find a 
fabric that looks similar instead.
I feel very confident I can make the dress in the portrait or a very close 
facsimile.
I foudn the pattern for the bell shaped sleeves, even down to the holes at 
the wrist. I'm looking for the source of those now. I should have written it 
down and not just saved the image.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 6:03 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


> I've seen various reproductions of this portrait and Elizabeth's dress
> is more crimson(red) than pink.
>
> Try Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett for
> modern scale patterns for this ensemble. The probable faux undersleeves
> and upper sleeve lining and underskirt or more likely, forepart,  appear
> to be a gold on gold brocade or cut velvet.
>
> The bell, trumpet, or Anne Boleyn style oversleeves, began the 16th
> century as simple long oversleeves and eventually  oversleeve and
> undersleeve/faux undersleeve components got more elaborate.
>
> The bodice is probably the long V waist, with the gold, pearled and
> jewelled girdle, covering the join(or hook and eye fastening) of bodice
> to skirt.
>
> To accurately make this costume is a lot of work.
>
> I did a similar version with the changes needed to bring it up to the
> 1570's several years ago and it is a lot of work, even for the 24"
> porcelain doll I made to create it for.
>
> First make the shift. You have to make an exact squared neck that a bit
> of it will appear or not, depending on the portrait you are copying. I
> made mine of fine cotton as a linen to the scale of the doll couldn't be
> bought to the limited quantity I needed for a fine linen. The shift was
> about knee length. Not sure of the white undersleeve construction and I
> was doing an 1570's, not super wide below the elbow 1540-1560 version, I
> did the shift sleeves cut wider at the top than a "normal" shift sleeve
> and much wider at the bottom, gathering each bottom into a cuff with
> drawstrings, not elastic.
>
> Next was the stays(or corset). My doll was cloth-bodied and firmly
> stuffed, but I made it complete with stiffining thin doll-scale
> synthetic horsehair in channels, and handmade sewn eyelets for back
> lacing and shoulder strap closure.  Well worth the work, as seven years
> later, the stuffing in this area has not dropped or settled. Stays
> helped the body fight aging and gravity.
>
> Somewhat easier to make for the doll was the hip pad and farthingale. I
> used a linen for both and using Hunnisett's pattern, cheated by sewing
> double folded bias binding along the marked lines all around in six
> graduated layers(think of a 19th hoopskirt) to make channels. I used
> more doll scale narrow horsehair inseted in the channels.
>
> I made undersleeves of a pink brocade and a matching forepart. Instead
> of authentically pinning each in place, I sewed the undersleeves to
> narrow silk ribbons that were tacked in place on the shift sleeves. I
> had to engineer this after I did the sleeves on the main gown. Fussy
> work and probably not authentic, but it was a competition doll and
> pining all into place would have looked as if I didn't have time to sew
> it. The forepart I hem stitched to the farthingale--it was just a little
> larger than the  main gown's overskirt opening and had to be cut to its
> final measurement and installed after I had finished the main gown.
>
> Main gown of bodice, oversleeves, shoulder wings, and overskirt was
> lined and sewn together as one piece, again for competition. Back
> fastened with hand-sewn eyelets.
>
> A partlet, figure-8 ruff and French hood finished the look, along with
> handmade shoes and feather fan.  Purchased stockings were faux fastened
> with cross-gartered silk ribbons.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Cindy Abel
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Becky
> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 3:25 PM
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>
> My daughter has chosen the portrait of young Princess Elizabeth for her
> costume. It is the pink one, Flemish School 1546-1547.
> Can anyone tell me what colors the sleeves and the front panel are? They
> seem very pink to me. http://www.sapphireandsage.com/necklaces.html
> I can't tell if it has a round or pointed bodices. What do you call
> these kind of sleeves. Any suggestions of how to make of pattern for the
> sleeves? I found several sites that had sleeve variations but none like
> these.
> _______________________________________________
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My son is wanting to grow out his mustache to make a handlebar style.  He wants to know does he needs to grow out the whiskers across the entire mustache? Just the sides or under his nose?  If anyone knows of a website that can give him directions or care for this style of mustache he would really appreciate it.
 
Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Has anyone been watching curling at the Olympics?  Does anyone know what kind of shoes the athletes are wearing?  I thought at first they were skates.  But they are not.  They are soled shoes that glide on the ice easily. 

Any opinions on the ice dancing costumes?  There must have been a sale on skin-toned beige.  LOL!  I heard today that one rule is that the women could not show their navels. The featured swan costume was molting!  Maybe she should have met up with the male skater, Weir's swan costume.

Some of the snowboard outfits looked like 1950s pajamas.  

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Olympics costumes
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On Feb 20, 2006, at 10:38 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

>
> Any opinions on the ice dancing costumes?  There must have been a sale 
> on skin-toned beige.  LOL!  I heard today that one rule is that the 
> women could not show their navels. The featured swan costume was 
> molting!  Maybe she should have met up with the male skater, Weir's 
> swan costume.

It seems the style this year is very bare midriffs with the bodice and 
skirt attached only at the center front.  And too many of the outfits 
are way overdone, combining too many disparate elements in one costume.
>
> Sylrog

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Olympics costumes
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 01:07:35 -0500
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The curling shoes have a rubber slip on sole that they use to walk on 
the ice.  They remove the slip on part to reveal a composition sole 
that glides.  This they use this sole when they are "throwing" the 
stone.  They replace the over -portion for the balance of the time.

I heard the explanation on the TV broadcast.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 21, 2006, at 12:38 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Has anyone been watching curling at the Olympics?  Does anyone know 
> what kind of shoes the athletes are wearing?  I thought at first they 
> were skates.  But they are not.  They are soled shoes that glide on 
> the ice easily.
>
> Any opinions on the ice dancing costumes?  There must have been a sale 
> on skin-toned beige.  LOL!  I heard today that one rule is that the 
> women could not show their navels. The featured swan costume was 
> molting!  Maybe she should have met up with the male skater, Weir's 
> swan costume.
>
> Some of the snowboard outfits looked like 1950s pajamas.
>
> Penny E. Ladnier
> Owner,
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Handlebar Mustaches
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In a message dated 2/21/2006 12:16:59 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
penny@costumegallery.com writes:

He wants  to know does he needs to grow out the whiskers across the entire 
mustache?  


He needs to just grow a regular 'stache long and comb the two halves away  
from each other. He might need to trim the whiskers just over his top lip  if he 
doesn't want to eat them. But you need long whiskers to do it right.
 
I wax mine with bee's wax I got in the hair care section of the local drug  
store. It's in a tin, and usually used to "seal" the ends of braids or  
dreadlocks so it sometimes is with the Afro hair care stuff. Don't get the stuff  in 
the little green tubes. It's awful.
 
Anyway, he might find the both side of the 'stache want to curl in the same  
direction...like mine. This is really annoying and require frequent checking 
to  make sure one side isn't 'unraveling". It's not care free. One of those 
little  moustache combs is very handy.
 
Of course a thick burly moustache works best. There is also a style  [popular 
in the 1870s and 90s] where the Moustache is very trimmed and just the  sides 
are let grow a bit and then waxed straight out to each side instead  of 
curled. Very dapper!
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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for a magazine
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I'm trying to track down a European sewing magazine for a friend. Does anyone 
know where I can get a copy of the November 2001 Burda Magazine (prefereable 
in English)?

Thanks.

Kathleen Norvell
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Susan,

Thank you for the explanation.  So are you hooked on curling too?  It looks 
like a combination of the games, pool and marbles.  Both I loved to play 
when I was young.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Handlebar Mustaches
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Thank you Albert Cat!  He will really appreciate your advice.  He has been 
growing his hair and beard out.  He said when the mustache get long enough, 
he is cutting his hair and beard.  Then he is going to leave the mustache 
for a week.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Aha Bjarne - I have evidence for 'silk grege' from medieval Scotland.  It
appears to raw silk (still gummed) with, interestingly, gold painted onto
it.  I would expect that to be quite stiff - used for hats today I believe.


Helen - I think what I am trying to explore is the transparent fabric on the
Luttrell ladies the first artistic evidence of the same fine silk gauze
fabric (regardless of what you want to call it)

On 21/02/06, Helen Pinto <hpinto@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
> When I got my set of swatches from Dharma a couple of years ago, I was
> surprised to find out that the barely there veiling in all those Italian
> portraits was a real fabric.  (My taste runs to linen and wool with
> interesting weaves.)
> Dharma has white silk gauze in two weights and widths, here:
> http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1639206-AA.shtml   and they'll send
> you a swatch for just a quarter.
>                 -Helen/Aidan
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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--
Caroline

"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop
playing."
G B Shaw
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk chiffon and organza
In-Reply-To: <12e.6f7f34a3.312bdfca@aol.com>
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On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> And organdy is a standard for children's clothes from the turn of the 19th  
> century to the present [especially in the 50s]. ...
> Organdy makes great petticoats or ruffles for petticoats. And, as someone  
> mentioned, is a great stabilizer to put in garments of light  fabrics.

But organdy and organza are two very different things, an order of
magnitude different in weight!

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 02:26:36 -0500
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I've got a 4 yard piece of linen that I got at an estate sale that is sheer 
enough to easily read through; it's as sheer as chiffon. When I first got 
it, I did a burn test and also tested it in bleach and it's definately 
linen.

It has a stamped image on it (maybe 2x2") that indicates the country of 
origin. It's packed away and I can't get to it. When I can locate it, I'll 
post what the stamp says.

kate


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Caroline" <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza


Why Joan - however fine linen gets I've never seen it transparent.  Silk can
be transparent and is evidenced in the archaeological record.

It is only these women where the veil appears transparent - all the other
pictures I have looked at for example

Holkham PBB
http://tinyurl.com/rlwa6

the Mac Bible
http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/images/maciejowski/leaf44/otm44ra.gif

Both of these show opaque veils which I am quite prepared to believe is
linen.




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
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Hi
Yes that linen i told you about some time ago, that my embroidery shop has, 
is so fine that it actually is transparent.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 1:53 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza


> Linen also can be fine enough to be transparent.
>
> Joan
>
> At 01:33 PM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
>>Why Joan - however fine linen gets I've never seen it transparent.  Silk 
>>can
>>be transparent and is evidenced in the archaeological record.
>>
>>It is only these women where the veil appears transparent - all the other
>>pictures I have looked at for example
>>
>>Holkham PBB
>>http://tinyurl.com/rlwa6
>>
>>the Mac Bible
>>http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/images/maciejowski/leaf44/otm44ra.gif
>>
>>Both of these show opaque veils which I am quite prepared to believe is
>>linen.
>>
>>
>>
>>On 20/02/06, Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
>> >
>> > I would expect the wimples and veils to be fine linen, in this case.
>> >
>> > Joan
>> >
>> > At 12:56 PM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
>> > >The reason I ask is that I have been looking at the ladies on the
>> > Luttrell
>> > >Psalter and it is clear both mother and daughter on the knight on
>> > horseback
>> > >page are wearing both wimples and veils.  The fabric drawn is a
>> > transparent
>> > >white and the only thing I can think it is chiffon or tulle.
>> > >
>> > >There are some very fine silk fabrics in the Textiles and Clothing
>> > (London
>> > >finds) but I was hoping for some historical perspective.
>> > >
>> > >http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/ttp/ttpbooks.html
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 10:54:00 +0100
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Hi,
I have also seen the Elizabeth Coronation portrait at the National Portrait 
Gallery, some years ago. Perhaps they moved it to Windsor for a special 
exhibition?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 3:45 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


>
>> When did you see it in the Portrait Gallery? I was in England in 2002, 
>> and
>> saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no orange to
>> it
>> at all.
>> The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base "cut and
>> voided" velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is gold
>> thread (looks distinctly metallic).
>> --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there....
>
> Hmmm...maybe I was mistaken.  I know I saw the Princess Mary Tudor
> portrait while I was there.  I thought I saw the Elizabeth one, too.
>
> But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool because I
> discovered that her chemise had redwork on the cuffs!  I hadn't heard of
> redwork before then and the photos I had seen of the painting didn't have
> enough detail to show it.   Very cool!
>
> Diana
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> "Become the change you want to see in the world."
> --Ghandi
>
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BAY101-DAV152A3492F767FEB803B502BCFF0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 21:53:33 +1100
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The over sleeve has a fitted upper half with a bell shaped lower half. If 
you can find Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costume for Stage and Screen, 
1500-1800" that's probably the most comprehensive resource on constructing a 
Tudor outfit (http://www.longago.com/bookstore3.html is the only place 
selling it at a reasonable price that I know of). However, she is a 
theatrical costumer so she does take some shortcuts. For example, she 
suggests cutting your skirt as one large rectangle with pleats to create the 
fashionable cone shape, however virtually all of the surviving 16th century 
garments and tailor's books suggest a gored skirt with trapezoid shaped 
pieces. If you can't get your hands on a copy of Jean Hunnisett's book you 
can find a basic pattern for the outer sleeves here 
http://www.livinghistory.co.uk/homepages/tudorcostumes/howtosleeves.html 
(though you'll have to make up your own variations where the book provides 
you with several) Jean Hunisett suggests cutting the sleeves on the bias, 
which does allow for the sleeves to drape down much further (the line marked 
C on this diagram 
http://www.livinghistory.co.uk/homepages/tudorcostumes/oversleevepattern.jpg) 
because obviously the distance corner to corner is longer than one side. For 
the undersleeves you'll find a pattern very similar to Jean Hunnisett's here 
http://www.livinghistory.co.uk/homepages/tudorcostumes/Bess_page3weddingGowndiary.html 
I've found the most reliable way to secure my undersleeves is to temporarily 
hand stitch them to the short sleeves of my kirtle (my dress diary for my 
current kirtle is here http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/kirtle/kirtle.htm 
I've found the front lacing shows up as lumps beneath my gown so my next one 
will have back or maybe side lacing) and then to switch undersleeves I just 
unpick the stitching (although if I'm wearing the kirtle alone with the 
fitted lower sleeves I pin them on)
Hope that helps
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole  | Lady Elizabeth Beaumont
Canberra, Australia  | Politarchopolis, Lochac
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 8:25 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


My daughter has chosen the portrait of young Princess Elizabeth for her 
costume. It is the pink one, Flemish School 1546-1547.
Can anyone tell me what colors the sleeves and the front panel are? They 
seem very pink to me. http://www.sapphireandsage.com/necklaces.html
I can't tell if it has a round or pointed bodices. What do you call these 
kind of sleeves. Any suggestions of how to make of pattern for the sleeves? 
I found several sites that had sleeve variations but none like these.



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Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 11:06:03 +0000
From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
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I really haven't seen linen this fine in England.  Maybe I haven't looked
hard enough.

On 21/02/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>
> Hi
> Yes that linen i told you about some time ago, that my embroidery shop
> has,
> is so fine that it actually is transparent.
>
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 1:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
>
>
> > Linen also can be fine enough to be transparent.
> >
> > Joan
> >
> > At 01:33 PM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
> >>Why Joan - however fine linen gets I've never seen it transparent.  Silk
> >>can
> >>be transparent and is evidenced in the archaeological record.
> >>
> >>It is only these women where the veil appears transparent - all the
> other
> >>pictures I have looked at for example
> >>
> >>Holkham PBB
> >>http://tinyurl.com/rlwa6
> >>
> >>the Mac Bible
> >>
> http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/images/maciejowski/leaf44/otm44ra.gif
> >>
> >>Both of these show opaque veils which I am quite prepared to believe is
> >>linen.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>On 20/02/06, Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > I would expect the wimples and veils to be fine linen, in this case.
> >> >
> >> > Joan
> >> >
> >> > At 12:56 PM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
> >> > >The reason I ask is that I have been looking at the ladies on the
> >> > Luttrell
> >> > >Psalter and it is clear both mother and daughter on the knight on
> >> > horseback
> >> > >page are wearing both wimples and veils.  The fabric drawn is a
> >> > transparent
> >> > >white and the only thing I can think it is chiffon or tulle.
> >> > >
> >> > >There are some very fine silk fabrics in the Textiles and Clothing
> >> > (London
> >> > >finds) but I was hoping for some historical perspective.
> >> > >
> >> > >http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/ttp/ttpbooks.html
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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--
Caroline

"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop
playing."
G B Shaw
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 05:43:10 -0600
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This is coronation portrait
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Elizabeth_I_of_England_-_coronation_portr
ait.jpg

Is this what you saw?
De

-----Original Message-----
F
Hi,
I have also seen the Elizabeth Coronation portrait at the National Portrait
Gallery, some years ago. Perhaps they moved it to Windsor for a special
exhibition?

Bjarne


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Printers and monitor vary is color.
This is what my monitor shows me.

This site has the dress in red with tan and dk gold sleeves and forepart.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:ElizabethTudorAt13-woc-0475.jpg

Scroll down. It is medium rose pink with sleeves and forepart in
monocromatic gold.
http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/eliz1.html

Orange and gold
http://tudorhistory.org/elizabeth/youngeliza.jpg

Not the same portrait but thought you would like to see it.
http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/princesselizabeth.jpg

De



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Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 13:32:44 +0000
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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To me, the facial expression in the "rose pink" version looks slightly different from nos. 1 and 3. I think I remember seeing that version in the Queen's Gallery at Buckingham Palace about 20 years ago. If it's in the Royal Collection it may well now be at Windsor.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> otsisto@socket.net 21/02/2006 12:23 >>>
Printers and monitor vary is color.
This is what my monitor shows me.

This site has the dress in red with tan and dk gold sleeves and forepart.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:ElizabethTudorAt13-woc-0475.jpg 

Scroll down. It is medium rose pink with sleeves and forepart in
monocromatic gold.
http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/eliz1.html 

Orange and gold
http://tudorhistory.org/elizabeth/youngeliza.jpg 

Not the same portrait but thought you would like to see it.
http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/princesselizabeth.jpg

De



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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Olympics costumes
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:36:32 -0500
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Status: RO

SInce there was so much coverage, I became interested.  Hooked? no

If you check out nbc.com, they say they have LOTS of info on the 
Olympics.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 21, 2006, at 1:44 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Susan,
>
> Thank you for the explanation.  So are you hooked on curling too?  It 
> looks like a combination of the games, pool and marbles.  Both I loved 
> to play when I was young.
>
> Penny E. Ladnier
> Owner,
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
>
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Redwork, was  Princess Elizabeth
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Status: RO

Speaking of redwork, do you know the one of Bess of Hardwick? Go to http://worldroots.com/brigitte/royal/british/brit-h.htm and click on the first link under her name. I love the way the white fur lining pokes out of the bodice opening.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> dch@inreach.com 21/02/2006 02:45 >>>

But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool because I
discovered that her chemise had redwork on the cuffs!  I hadn't heard of
redwork before then and the photos I had seen of the painting didn't have
enough detail to show it.   Very cool!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net 
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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Yes this was the picture i looked at at the National Portrait Gallery.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


> This is coronation portrait
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Elizabeth_I_of_England_-_coronation_portr
> ait.jpg
>
> Is this what you saw?
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> F
> Hi,
> I have also seen the Elizabeth Coronation portrait at the National 
> Portrait
> Gallery, some years ago. Perhaps they moved it to Windsor for a special
> exhibition?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <37ee9e000602201019v66e961ddv@mail.gmail.com><Pine.LNX.4.10.10602201402440.23909-100000@shell.nightowl.net><37ee9e000602201256t4849d4f6g@mail.gmail.com><7.0.1.0.2.20060220130655.0237ea60@surewest.net><37ee9e000602201333n2524e3b0r@mail.gmail.com><7.0.1.0.2.20060220165135.0232c7f8@surewest.net><000a01c636cc$56298df0$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 14:46:17 +0100
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Hi-
Well i never dreamed of that it excisted either, untill i saw it with my own 
eyes. But it also is expensive...........

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Caroline" <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza


I really haven't seen linen this fine in England.  Maybe I haven't looked
hard enough.

On 21/02/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>
> Hi
> Yes that linen i told you about some time ago, that my embroidery shop
> has,
> is so fine that it actually is transparent.
>
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 1:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
>
>
> > Linen also can be fine enough to be transparent.
> >
> > Joan
> >
> > At 01:33 PM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
> >>Why Joan - however fine linen gets I've never seen it transparent.  Silk
> >>can
> >>be transparent and is evidenced in the archaeological record.
> >>
> >>It is only these women where the veil appears transparent - all the
> other
> >>pictures I have looked at for example
> >>
> >>Holkham PBB
> >>http://tinyurl.com/rlwa6
> >>
> >>the Mac Bible
> >>
> http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/images/maciejowski/leaf44/otm44ra.gif
> >>
> >>Both of these show opaque veils which I am quite prepared to believe is
> >>linen.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>On 20/02/06, Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > I would expect the wimples and veils to be fine linen, in this case.
> >> >
> >> > Joan
> >> >
> >> > At 12:56 PM 2/20/2006, you wrote:
> >> > >The reason I ask is that I have been looking at the ladies on the
> >> > Luttrell
> >> > >Psalter and it is clear both mother and daughter on the knight on
> >> > horseback
> >> > >page are wearing both wimples and veils.  The fabric drawn is a
> >> > transparent
> >> > >white and the only thing I can think it is chiffon or tulle.
> >> > >
> >> > >There are some very fine silk fabrics in the Textiles and Clothing
> >> > (London
> >> > >finds) but I was hoping for some historical perspective.
> >> > >
> >> > >http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/ttp/ttpbooks.html
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>



--
Caroline

"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop
playing."
G B Shaw
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 09:15:12 -0500
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Status: RO

Re the perception of color in these portraits:
For you who do dyeing (Natural or otherwise) did the color of dyed textiles
of the past change because of exposure to sunlight or was there some
chemical element that was not always stable and would mute or even mutate
over a period of time.  In the present world, I have seen color changes on
bolts and even garments that have never seen the light of day go entirely
from one color to another.
For instance, there is a certain grey from the middle of the 20th C, that
seems to change to pink within a 40 yr. span.  My daughter"s pale blue
taffeta promgown from the 1990s is now a sort of interesting pale rose.  I
have a bolt of rayon velvet from the'70s that is presently an interesting
shade of lavender.

In reference to these portraits under discussion, might the colors on the
canvas have changed, or the garments themselves have been 'changeable'?

kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 11:19 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


> Misremembering happens to all of us! <g> Seriously, though, it could be
two
> different copies--I know that some of the portraits of Elizabeth I (as
> queen) and her sister, Mary, were done multipe times--there's that great
> chapter in QEUnlocked that talks about them.  So it could be that,
> especially since so many of our details are similar.  And maybe it
explains
> why some of the reproductions seem so pink and others more orange? I don't
> know about "yours"--we only had time for the National Gallery of Art
(which
> was on its last day of a Truly Cool Exhibit on Fabric in Portraits), and
> didn't make it over to the Portrait Gallery.  Well, maybe we could have,
if
> I hadn't been making a complete pig of myself in the bookstore. <weg>
> I've seen monochrome embroidery done in red in a couple of portraits in my
> books, and a little of it in the Textile Rooms at the V&A.  A friend of
mine
> says it's known as "morisco" work (spelling optional at this time of the
> evening ;o) I *think* I've got a copy of a painting of Mary I with red
> embroidery somewhere.  I *think.*  (sorry...bad case of chocolate cravings
> paired with knitting fatigue from the Knitting Olympics! LOL!)
> --Sue
> p.s.  I like your Ghandi quote....
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 7:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>
>
> >
> > > When did you see it in the Portrait Gallery? I was in England in 2002,
> and
> > > saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no orange
to
> > > it
> > > at all.
> > > The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base "cut
> and
> > > voided" velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is
gold
> > > thread (looks distinctly metallic).
> > > --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there....
> >
> > Hmmm...maybe I was mistaken.  I know I saw the Princess Mary Tudor
> > portrait while I was there.  I thought I saw the Elizabeth one, too.
> >
> > But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool because I
> > discovered that her chemise had redwork on the cuffs!  I hadn't heard of
> > redwork before then and the photos I had seen of the painting didn't
have
> > enough detail to show it.   Very cool!
> >
> > Diana
> >
> > www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> > "Everything for the Costumer"
> >
> > "Become the change you want to see in the world."
> > --Ghandi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060220181402.74902.qmail@web36507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: Urinetown (was 1930's factory wear)
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 10:15:21 -0400
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Status: RO

My Show will be costumed and acyed by those in their final year in the 
Theatre program at Dalhousie University in Halifax.  A bit of a commute for 
you, maybe ;-)

The clothes already are being pulled together and look great. I'm looking 
forward to seeing it.  This has been the season of very emotional plays.  A 
tough year on all the students, and they are thriving!
Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mary" <hanstar88@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 2:14 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT: Urinetown (was 1930's factory wear)


> One of the local theater groups in Santa Rosa, CA, is also doing 
> Urinetown.  Is this yet another production, or is this being costumed by 
> one of you?  If the latter, it gives me even greater incentive to go.  :-)
>
> ~mary
> (Sorry for the late reply, I got behind on this list and I'm still trying 
> to catch up....)
>
> h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
> Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 20:00:20 -0400
> From: "Kelly Grant"
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear/Urinetown
>
>
> What is this...the year for depression era Urinetown???We're doing the 
> same
> sho for the final one of the season...we'll get the scetches next week!
> Kelly
>
>
>
>>From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes"
>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
>>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 19:09:30 -0800
>>
>>Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the
>>depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a
>>production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era
>>feel, although the show is not actually set in any time period.  (It's
>>actually the future, I believe).
>>
>>I did a few cursory net searches without much luck, but thought perhaps
>>someone already had some sourcing and could save me some time for my
>>inspiration.
>>
>>As always, thanks in advance.
>>
>>angela
>>+++++
>>Angela F. Lazear
>>Cabbage Rose Costumes
>>www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
>>Theatrical Costume Design
>
>
>
>
>
> «:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:»
>
> "Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
> ~ Jane Austen
>
> "Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've 
> forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
> _______________________________________________
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I don't know about hand kissing, but I always understood that if a lady was wearing "dress" gloves - that is evening gloves or gloves simply as part of her ensemble she left them on and if she was wearing riding or gardening gloves or the like, they came off (obviously I would think) for hand shaking/introductions. Seems a simple rule that makes sense to apply to hand kissing as well.
   
  Annette M

		
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Subject: [h-cost] turban/veils
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Hi all,
I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice about
14th/15th century habit of wrapping one's veil about one's head to
become a kind of turban. I have a general understanding of the 
procedure, but every time I try it it seems to end up looking bulky
and wierd. I was wondering what dimensions of veil seem to work
best for this? I tend to cut my veils quite large, cos I like having lots
of fabric hanging about (and then they can also double as basket cloths,
aprons etc), which I suspect is not helpful. Also I have quite a lot of hair. 

Are there any other little tips? 

Thanks muchly,
Claire
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Olympics costumes
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 05:32:22 -0600
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http://www.balanceplus.com/

I haven't been keeping a close watch on the dance skating but what I have
seen seems to match the ballroom dancing/dancing with the stars type
outfits. Molting huh? darn I missed that. :)

Yes, snowboarding with the rapa' style pants aka. anticipation pants.

Have you seen the medals? It looks like someone found good use for all those
free aol discs or someone is missing a lot of washers.
And the torches, well lets just say it looks like it could vibrate.
Humor aside. I commend the Italians for being innovative with their designs,
with the exception of the mascots. Though I understand that coming up with a
mascot isn't easy.

De

-----Original Message-----
Has anyone been watching curling at the Olympics?  Does anyone know what
kind of shoes the athletes are wearing?  I thought at first they were
skates.  But they are not.  They are soled shoes that glide on the ice
easily.

Any opinions on the ice dancing costumes?  There must have been a sale on
skin-toned beige.  LOL!  I heard today that one rule is that the women could
not show their navels. The featured swan costume was molting!  Maybe she
should have met up with the male skater, Weir's swan costume.

Some of the snowboard outfits looked like 1950s pajamas.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
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re organdy / organza - the first time I mentioned it I meant it was the 
closest sounding word, not that it was the closest fabric (it's not).

gauze is definitely around from the 13th century (approx), but it's naturally 
hard to tell whether it was the same fabric as later gauze - that it was very 
fine, and possibly sheer is about all we can know, unless there are finds I'm 
unaware of.

Probably the best we can currently say is that very fine and sheer fabrics 
were around, and that they could have been of silk, or linen, or wool!

debs



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Don't know about the curling shoes, but the skaters costumes are really awful this year.  I was thinking last night that they should have points for the costumes, but then they would all have them deleted so it would balance out.  The snowboarding is a cross over from skateboarding and the kids wear their clothes so big it is a wonder they can keep them up.  It looks like the snowboarding outfits are a takeoff on the oversize stuff the kids are wearing.  I am just so amazed at what they can do that I forget what they are wearing.

I am afraid the costumes are evolving and I am being left behind.  Oh well, the skating is still beautiful and the snowboarding is exciting even if their clothes leave a lot to be desired.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:

From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 00:38:49 -0500
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Olympics costumes

Has anyone been watching curling at the Olympics?  Does anyone know what kind of shoes the athletes are wearing?  I thought at first they were skates.  But they are not.  They are soled shoes that glide on the ice easily. 

Any opinions on the ice dancing costumes?  There must have been a sale on skin-toned beige.  LOL!  I heard today that one rule is that the women could not show their navels. The featured swan costume was molting!  Maybe she should have met up with the male skater, Weir's swan costume.

Some of the snowboard outfits looked like 1950s pajamas.  

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BAY101-DAV152A3492F767FEB803B502BCFF0@phx.gbl><1101.67.169.138.79.1140476018.squirrel@webmail.inreach.com><005601c6368e$44226ac0$b7bfa6d8@pavilion><1323.67.169.138.79.1140489959.squirrel@webmail.inreach.com><009201c6369e$0c388080$b7bfa6d8@pavilion>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 15:58:33 +0100
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Hi,
Ah yes, and the purple wheelfarthingale dress i made for Castle Selsø has 
turned brownish grey :-)
Anyway it was a dupioni silk, and they dont hold their colours very long. 
Dress was exhibited in a room with morning sun.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


> Re the perception of color in these portraits:
> For you who do dyeing (Natural or otherwise) did the color of dyed 
> textiles
> of the past change because of exposure to sunlight or was there some
> chemical element that was not always stable and would mute or even mutate
> over a period of time.  In the present world, I have seen color changes on
> bolts and even garments that have never seen the light of day go entirely
> from one color to another.
> For instance, there is a certain grey from the middle of the 20th C, that
> seems to change to pink within a 40 yr. span.  My daughter"s pale blue
> taffeta promgown from the 1990s is now a sort of interesting pale rose.  I
> have a bolt of rayon velvet from the'70s that is presently an interesting
> shade of lavender.
>
> In reference to these portraits under discussion, might the colors on the
> canvas have changed, or the garments themselves have been 'changeable'?
>
> kathleen
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 11:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>
>
>> Misremembering happens to all of us! <g> Seriously, though, it could be
> two
>> different copies--I know that some of the portraits of Elizabeth I (as
>> queen) and her sister, Mary, were done multipe times--there's that great
>> chapter in QEUnlocked that talks about them.  So it could be that,
>> especially since so many of our details are similar.  And maybe it
> explains
>> why some of the reproductions seem so pink and others more orange? I 
>> don't
>> know about "yours"--we only had time for the National Gallery of Art
> (which
>> was on its last day of a Truly Cool Exhibit on Fabric in Portraits), and
>> didn't make it over to the Portrait Gallery.  Well, maybe we could have,
> if
>> I hadn't been making a complete pig of myself in the bookstore. <weg>
>> I've seen monochrome embroidery done in red in a couple of portraits in 
>> my
>> books, and a little of it in the Textile Rooms at the V&A.  A friend of
> mine
>> says it's known as "morisco" work (spelling optional at this time of the
>> evening ;o) I *think* I've got a copy of a painting of Mary I with red
>> embroidery somewhere.  I *think.*  (sorry...bad case of chocolate 
>> cravings
>> paired with knitting fatigue from the Knitting Olympics! LOL!)
>> --Sue
>> p.s.  I like your Ghandi quote....
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 7:45 PM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>>
>>
>> >
>> > > When did you see it in the Portrait Gallery? I was in England in 
>> > > 2002,
>> and
>> > > saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no orange
> to
>> > > it
>> > > at all.
>> > > The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base "cut
>> and
>> > > voided" velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is
> gold
>> > > thread (looks distinctly metallic).
>> > > --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there....
>> >
>> > Hmmm...maybe I was mistaken.  I know I saw the Princess Mary Tudor
>> > portrait while I was there.  I thought I saw the Elizabeth one, too.
>> >
>> > But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool because I
>> > discovered that her chemise had redwork on the cuffs!  I hadn't heard 
>> > of
>> > redwork before then and the photos I had seen of the painting didn't
> have
>> > enough detail to show it.   Very cool!
>> >
>> > Diana
>> >
>> > www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>> > "Everything for the Costumer"
>> >
>> > "Become the change you want to see in the world."
>> > --Ghandi
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Olympics costumes
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In a message dated 2/21/2006 10:27:55 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:

but the  skaters costumes are really awful this year.  I was thinking last 
night  that they should have points for the costumes, but then they would all 
have  them deleted so it would balance out. 


I think the costumes from last night's long program were an improvement  over 
the compulsory dance ones.  I was impressed that the few I saw  actually 
seemed to fit the theme of the music--Romeo and Juliet, Carmen, and  flamenco.
 
Ann Wass
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Perception of color, Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
In-Reply-To: <001901c636f7$4afa2f90$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
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Fabric dyes vary in their resistance to color 
change.  Some dyes change color, some just fade, 
some do both.  It also depends upon the fabric 
itself; in my experience cottons and linens tend 
to hold their colors better than silks.  Wools 
have held their colors well.  I had some acetate 
plaid taffeta that changed color while stored in 
a dark closet under fairly constant climatic 
conditions.  So synthetics, in my experience, 
have the worst survival characteristics.

Pigments for painting are generally minerals, so 
the colors have a better chance to survive 
intact, although where some organic pigments are 
used, they can fade/change just like 
fabric.  There are some minerals that do change 
color due to chemical reactions with air, though 
modern analytic techniques can determine what the 
original mineral was and restore the proper 
color.  The usual reason for color changes in 
portraits are the accumulation of dust, soot, 
etc., on the surface and earlier attempts to 
protect the painting with varnish, which often darkens with age.

Joan

At 06:58 AM 2/21/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Ah yes, and the purple wheelfarthingale dress i 
>made for Castle Selsø has turned brownish grey :-)
>Anyway it was a dupioni silk, and they dont hold 
>their colours very long. Dress was exhibited in a room with morning sun.
>
>Bjarne
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 3:15 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>
>
>>Re the perception of color in these portraits:
>>For you who do dyeing (Natural or otherwise) did the color of dyed textiles
>>of the past change because of exposure to sunlight or was there some
>>chemical element that was not always stable and would mute or even mutate
>>over a period of time.  In the present world, I have seen color changes on
>>bolts and even garments that have never seen the light of day go entirely
>>from one color to another.
>>For instance, there is a certain grey from the middle of the 20th C, that
>>seems to change to pink within a 40 yr. span.  My daughter"s pale blue
>>taffeta promgown from the 1990s is now a sort of interesting pale rose.  I
>>have a bolt of rayon velvet from the'70s that is presently an interesting
>>shade of lavender.
>>
>>In reference to these portraits under discussion, might the colors on the
>>canvas have changed, or the garments themselves have been 'changeable'?
>>
>>kathleen
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
>>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 11:19 PM
>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>>
>>
>>>Misremembering happens to all of us! <g> Seriously, though, it could be
>>two
>>>different copies--I know that some of the portraits of Elizabeth I (as
>>>queen) and her sister, Mary, were done multipe times--there's that great
>>>chapter in QEUnlocked that talks about them.  So it could be that,
>>>especially since so many of our details are similar.  And maybe it
>>explains
>>>why some of the reproductions seem so pink and others more orange? I don't
>>>know about "yours"--we only had time for the National Gallery of Art
>>(which
>>>was on its last day of a Truly Cool Exhibit on Fabric in Portraits), and
>>>didn't make it over to the Portrait Gallery.  Well, maybe we could have,
>>if
>>>I hadn't been making a complete pig of myself in the bookstore. <weg>
>>>I've seen monochrome embroidery done in red in a couple of portraits in my
>>>books, and a little of it in the Textile Rooms at the V&A.  A friend of
>>mine
>>>says it's known as "morisco" work (spelling optional at this time of the
>>>evening ;o) I *think* I've got a copy of a painting of Mary I with red
>>>embroidery somewhere.  I *think.*  (sorry...bad case of chocolate cravings
>>>paired with knitting fatigue from the Knitting Olympics! LOL!)
>>>--Sue
>>>p.s.  I like your Ghandi quote....
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
>>>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 7:45 PM
>>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>>>
>>>
>>> >
>>> > > When did you see it in the Portrait 
>>> Gallery? I was in England in > > 2002,
>>>and
>>> > > saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no orange
>>to
>>> > > it
>>> > > at all.
>>> > > The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base "cut
>>>and
>>> > > voided" velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is
>>gold
>>> > > thread (looks distinctly metallic).
>>> > > --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there....
>>> >
>>> > Hmmm...maybe I was mistaken.  I know I saw the Princess Mary Tudor
>>> > portrait while I was there.  I thought I saw the Elizabeth one, too.
>>> >
>>> > But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool because I
>>> > discovered that her chemise had redwork on 
>>> the cuffs!  I hadn't heard > of
>>> > redwork before then and the photos I had seen of the painting didn't
>>have
>>> > enough detail to show it.   Very cool!
>>> >
>>> > Diana
>>> >
>>> > www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>>> > "Everything for the Costumer"
>>> >
>>> > "Become the change you want to see in the world."
>>> > --Ghandi
>>>
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>h-costume mailing list
>>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
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>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk chiffon and organza
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In a message dated 2/21/2006 2:10:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:

But  organdy and organza are two very different things, an order of
magnitude  different in weight!





Yeah.... but they both are used for children's clothes and they both make  
good petticoats.
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From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> 
> I think the costumes from last night's long program were an improvement  over 
> the compulsory dance ones.  I was impressed that the few I saw  actually 
> seemed to fit the theme of the music--Romeo and Juliet, Carmen, and  flamenco.

...and then there were the Italians! 
(http://www.nbcolympics.com/2006/0220/5121831_640X480.jpg)

My first reaction to their costume was "hey, that looks like something 
I'd put together when my daughter says 'Mom, can you make me a fantasy 
costume for an event...it starts in an hour'" My husband called it the 
"walked through a fabric store with glue on" look.

Second reaction was: "then again, it looks like a modern interpretation 
of some nice early Baroque opera costumes"

Of course, when the music started (music from movie 'Prince of Eygypt') 
I couldn't help but think "yeah I can see Moses and Zippora tending 
sheep in that outfit..."

But the skating was lovely!

- Hope
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Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:20:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Re the perception of color in these portraits:
> For you who do dyeing (Natural or otherwise) did the color of dyed
> textiles
> of the past change because of exposure to sunlight or was there some
> chemical element that was not always stable and would mute or even mutate
> over a period of time.  In the present world, I have seen color changes on
> bolts and even garments that have never seen the light of day go entirely
> from one color to another.
> For instance, there is a certain grey from the middle of the 20th C, that
> seems to change to pink within a 40 yr. span.  My daughter"s pale blue
> taffeta promgown from the 1990s is now a sort of interesting pale rose.  I
> have a bolt of rayon velvet from the'70s that is presently an interesting
> shade of lavender.
>
> In reference to these portraits under discussion, might the colors on the
> canvas have changed, or the garments themselves have been 'changeable'?

I would say yes.  Paint colors change, fabric colors change and/or fade. 
I have some wool floss that was dyed with period dyes and it has faded
after only 10 years.

As for your personal fabrics, I have heard that acetate changes colors
after many years.  I'm not sure how rayon behaves but maybe it is similar.

The more likely reason for the Princess Elizabeth painting changes is that
there were copies made.  I have personally seen a copy of the famous
Eleanora of Toledo wedding dress painting in Sacramento, California at a
small museum.  It is one of 4 copies of the painting and was copied close
to the time it was originally painted.

I'm not sure why painters would have made more than one copy of a
portrait, but they did.....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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A better picture.
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html
I sat down once and copied the pattern on graph paper but I can't seem to
find it.
De

-----Original Message-----
Speaking of redwork, do you know the one of Bess of Hardwick? Go to
http://worldroots.com/brigitte/royal/british/brit-h.htm and click on the
first link under her name. I love the way the white fur lining pokes out of
the bodice opening.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor



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In a message dated 2/21/06 4:27:15 PM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> For you who do dyeing (Natural or otherwise) did the color of dyed textiles
> of the past change because of exposure to sunlight or was there some
> chemical element that was not always stable and would mute or even mutate
> over a period of time.

not an expert by any means, but it's possible.

most common effect from sunlight would probably be fading (can do that with 
modern colours too of course).

And black that was dyed using iron can be corrosive (see the embroidered 
jacket in the v&a where the black thread used is literally being eaten by the dye.

debs
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Perception of color, Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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At 16:01 21/02/2006, you wrote:
>Fabric dyes vary in their resistance to color 
>change.  Some dyes change color, some just fade, 
>some do both.  It also depends upon the fabric 
>itself; in my experience cottons and linens tend 
>to hold their colors better than silks.  Wools 
>have held their colors well.  I had some acetate 
>plaid taffeta that changed color while stored in 
>a dark closet under fairly constant climatic 
>conditions.  So synthetics, in my experience, 
>have the worst survival characteristics.
>
>Pigments for painting are generally minerals, so 
>the colors have a better chance to survive 
>intact, although where some organic pigments are 
>used, they can fade/change just like 
>fabric.  There are some minerals that do change 
>color due to chemical reactions with air, though 
>modern analytic techniques can determine what 
>the original mineral was and restore the proper 
>color.  The usual reason for color changes in 
>portraits are the accumulation of dust, soot, 
>etc., on the surface and earlier attempts to 
>protect the painting with varnish, which often darkens with age.

According to QEWU "The deep pink gown is 
fashionably cut and the material is described in 
the records of Edward Vl's collection of pictures 
"....the ladye Elizabeth her grace with a booke 
in her hande her gowne like crymsen clothe of 
golde with workes". Just o confuse matters you 
understand. When I was at college we went to see 
the portraits at Windsor, and this was always 
referred to as the "Pink Princess", which tends 
to make me think that we all "saw" it as a pink dress.

Suzi

>>Hi,
>>Ah yes, and the purple wheelfarthingale dress i 
>>made for Castle Selsø has turned brownish grey :-)
>>Anyway it was a dupioni silk, and they dont 
>>hold their colours very long. Dress was exhibited in a room with morning sun.
>>
>>Bjarne
>>
>>
>>>Re the perception of color in these portraits:
>>>For you who do dyeing (Natural or otherwise) did the color of dyed textiles
>>>of the past change because of exposure to sunlight or was there some
>>>chemical element that was not always stable and would mute or even mutate
>>>over a period of time.  In the present world, I have seen color changes on
>>>bolts and even garments that have never seen the light of day go entirely
>>>from one color to another.
>>>For instance, there is a certain grey from the middle of the 20th C, that
>>>seems to change to pink within a 40 yr. span.  My daughter"s pale blue
>>>taffeta promgown from the 1990s is now a sort of interesting pale rose.  I
>>>have a bolt of rayon velvet from the'70s that is presently an interesting
>>>shade of lavender.
>>>
>>>In reference to these portraits under discussion, might the colors on the
>>>canvas have changed, or the garments themselves have been 'changeable'?
>>>
>>>kathleen
>>>
>>>
>>>>Misremembering happens to all of us! <g> Seriously, though, it could be
>>>two
>>>>different copies--I know that some of the portraits of Elizabeth I (as
>>>>queen) and her sister, Mary, were done multipe times--there's that great
>>>>chapter in QEUnlocked that talks about them.  So it could be that,
>>>>especially since so many of our details are similar.  And maybe it
>>>explains
>>>>why some of the reproductions seem so pink and others more orange? I don't
>>>>know about "yours"--we only had time for the National Gallery of Art
>>>(which
>>>>was on its last day of a Truly Cool Exhibit on Fabric in Portraits), and
>>>>didn't make it over to the Portrait Gallery.  Well, maybe we could have,
>>>if
>>>>I hadn't been making a complete pig of myself in the bookstore. <weg>
>>>>I've seen monochrome embroidery done in red in a couple of portraits in my
>>>>books, and a little of it in the Textile Rooms at the V&A.  A friend of
>>>mine
>>>>says it's known as "morisco" work (spelling optional at this time of the
>>>>evening ;o) I *think* I've got a copy of a painting of Mary I with red
>>>>embroidery somewhere.  I *think.*  (sorry...bad case of chocolate cravings
>>>>paired with knitting fatigue from the Knitting Olympics! LOL!)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >
>>>> > > When did you see it in the Portrait 
>>>> Gallery? I was in England in > > 2002,
>>>>and
>>>> > > saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no orange
>>>to
>>>> > > it
>>>> > > at all.
>>>> > > The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base "cut
>>>>and
>>>> > > voided" velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is
>>>gold
>>>> > > thread (looks distinctly metallic).
>>>> > > --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there....
>>>> >
>>>> > Hmmm...maybe I was mistaken.  I know I saw the Princess Mary Tudor
>>>> > portrait while I was there.  I thought I saw the Elizabeth one, too.
>>>> >
>>>> > But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool because I
>>>> > discovered that her chemise had redwork on 
>>>> the cuffs!  I hadn't heard > of
>>>> > redwork before then and the photos I had seen of the painting didn't
>>>have
>>>> > enough detail to show it.   Very cool!
>>>> >
>>>> > Diana
>>>> >
>>>> > www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>>>> > "Everything for the Costumer"
>>>> >
>>>> > "Become the change you want to see in the world."
>>>> > --Ghandi



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Redwork, 
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At 16:25 21/02/2006, you wrote:
>A better picture.
>http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html
>I sat down once and copied the pattern on graph paper but I can't seem to
>find it.
>De

I love it that the neck and wrist ruffs are edged in red too, at 
least that's how I see them.

Suzi

>-----Original Message-----
>Speaking of redwork, do you know the one of Bess of Hardwick? Go to
>http://worldroots.com/brigitte/royal/british/brit-h.htm and click on the
>first link under her name. I love the way the white fur lining pokes out of
>the bodice opening.
>
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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 There is always a lot of skin-toned beige in ice-dancing costumes, to
say nothing of some unfortunate color combinations. Turqouise blue with
leopard print--Ouch!

And did most of the competitors lug tanning booths into the Olympic
Village, or were several tons of spray-on brought in?

Cindy Abel

 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Anne of cleves and seeing things in
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Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 10:55:13 -0600
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Anne was curvy--too curvy, apparently that Henry at least stated that he
thought she was no virgin. He found her breasts too slack and she
certainly was far from possessing six-pack abs.

Good Clevian girls were supposed to sit at home and sew and Henry's
previous wives were apparently more active. Anne Boleyn was an adept
horsewoman who loved to hunt. Jane Seymour grew up on a country estate,
and Katherine of Aragon, at least before child-bearing and age(menopause
was no fun in those times)was also active.

The ideal vision of a virgin in Henry's era had small high breasts, a
not too narrow waist and hips wider than the breast measurement. 

Henry did not blame the artist, Holbein. Instead he sacked Thomas
Cromwell and had him beheaded when Cromwell couldn't free him from
having to wed Anne.

Then Henry promptly wed the tiny, slightly plump Catherine Howard, who
might have met the virginal body type, but certainly wasn't in truth.
Apparently, she had no problem fooling Henry she was a nice, pure girl,
until he was otherwise informed.

Cindy Abel
 

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Redwork,
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> A better picture.
> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html
> I sat down once and copied the pattern on graph paper but I can't seem to
> find it.

I think it was charted on those "temporarily removed" blackwork archives
that were parked on Drea Leeds web site.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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>Hi Cynthia,
>No no, sorry i take my words back. I really have misunderstanded this. I
>didnt realise that you could wear a bumroll without to tye it to the bodice,
>sorry...........
>As said i only made one dress of this period many years ago, it was for a
>danser and she had no bumroll for this dress. But i would make a small
>bumroll if i made one today...............

>Bjarne

No apology needed!  As you said yourself, none of us really know how
things were done.  We're all experimenting.  I've only made 2-3 of
these gowns, but unlike you, I make them for myself, not someone else.
No insults intended. My apologies if I sounded harsh.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Kate M Bunting wrote:

> To me, the facial expression in the "rose pink" version looks slightly different from nos. 1 and 3. I think I remember seeing that version in the Queen's Gallery at Buckingham Palace about 20 years ago. If it's in the Royal Collection it may well now be at Windsor.
> 

I can't see a difference in the paintings, myself, but it does appear 
they were all scanned from different sources, probably photos or book 
pictures with slightly different inks. I've never heard of there being 
multiple copies of this portrait, from any source.

I've always thought of the gown as salmon colored.


Dawn



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From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Olympics costumes
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Anyone remember the fantastical costumes of another favorite ice dancing 
pair, the Russian team of Bestimianova and Butin who dominated the sport 
in the 1980s? For the 1988 Olympic long program they wore this black and 
gold number:
http://www.holidayonice.com/img/stars_nathalie_andre.jpg
That was also the year of the "dueling Carmens" Katerina Witt and Debi 
Thomas.

- Hope

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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Perception of color, Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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Referring to those red fox-hunting jackets as "pinks" raises the additional question of just what the British historically meant when they called something "pink."
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Sent: Feb 21, 2006 11:39 AM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: Perception of color, Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>
>At 16:01 21/02/2006, you wrote:
>>Fabric dyes vary in their resistance to color 
>>change.  Some dyes change color, some just fade, 
>>some do both.  It also depends upon the fabric 
>>itself; in my experience cottons and linens tend 
>>to hold their colors better than silks.  Wools 
>>have held their colors well.  I had some acetate 
>>plaid taffeta that changed color while stored in 
>>a dark closet under fairly constant climatic 
>>conditions.  So synthetics, in my experience, 
>>have the worst survival characteristics.
>>
>>Pigments for painting are generally minerals, so 
>>the colors have a better chance to survive 
>>intact, although where some organic pigments are 
>>used, they can fade/change just like 
>>fabric.  There are some minerals that do change 
>>color due to chemical reactions with air, though 
>>modern analytic techniques can determine what 
>>the original mineral was and restore the proper 
>>color.  The usual reason for color changes in 
>>portraits are the accumulation of dust, soot, 
>>etc., on the surface and earlier attempts to 
>>protect the painting with varnish, which often darkens with age.
>
>According to QEWU "The deep pink gown is 
>fashionably cut and the material is described in 
>the records of Edward Vl's collection of pictures 
>"....the ladye Elizabeth her grace with a booke 
>in her hande her gowne like crymsen clothe of 
>golde with workes". Just o confuse matters you 
>understand. When I was at college we went to see 
>the portraits at Windsor, and this was always 
>referred to as the "Pink Princess", which tends 
>to make me think that we all "saw" it as a pink dress.
>
>Suzi
>
>>>Hi,
>>>Ah yes, and the purple wheelfarthingale dress i 
>>>made for Castle Selsø has turned brownish grey :-)
>>>Anyway it was a dupioni silk, and they dont 
>>>hold their colours very long. Dress was exhibited in a room with morning sun.
>>>
>>>Bjarne
>>>
>>>
>>>>Re the perception of color in these portraits:
>>>>For you who do dyeing (Natural or otherwise) did the color of dyed textiles
>>>>of the past change because of exposure to sunlight or was there some
>>>>chemical element that was not always stable and would mute or even mutate
>>>>over a period of time.  In the present world, I have seen color changes on
>>>>bolts and even garments that have never seen the light of day go entirely
>>>>from one color to another.
>>>>For instance, there is a certain grey from the middle of the 20th C, that
>>>>seems to change to pink within a 40 yr. span.  My daughter"s pale blue
>>>>taffeta promgown from the 1990s is now a sort of interesting pale rose.  I
>>>>have a bolt of rayon velvet from the'70s that is presently an interesting
>>>>shade of lavender.
>>>>
>>>>In reference to these portraits under discussion, might the colors on the
>>>>canvas have changed, or the garments themselves have been 'changeable'?
>>>>
>>>>kathleen
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Misremembering happens to all of us! <g> Seriously, though, it could be
>>>>two
>>>>>different copies--I know that some of the portraits of Elizabeth I (as
>>>>>queen) and her sister, Mary, were done multipe times--there's that great
>>>>>chapter in QEUnlocked that talks about them.  So it could be that,
>>>>>especially since so many of our details are similar.  And maybe it
>>>>explains
>>>>>why some of the reproductions seem so pink and others more orange? I don't
>>>>>know about "yours"--we only had time for the National Gallery of Art
>>>>(which
>>>>>was on its last day of a Truly Cool Exhibit on Fabric in Portraits), and
>>>>>didn't make it over to the Portrait Gallery.  Well, maybe we could have,
>>>>if
>>>>>I hadn't been making a complete pig of myself in the bookstore. <weg>
>>>>>I've seen monochrome embroidery done in red in a couple of portraits in my
>>>>>books, and a little of it in the Textile Rooms at the V&A.  A friend of
>>>>mine
>>>>>says it's known as "morisco" work (spelling optional at this time of the
>>>>>evening ;o) I *think* I've got a copy of a painting of Mary I with red
>>>>>embroidery somewhere.  I *think.*  (sorry...bad case of chocolate cravings
>>>>>paired with knitting fatigue from the Knitting Olympics! LOL!)
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > When did you see it in the Portrait 
>>>>> Gallery? I was in England in > > 2002,
>>>>>and
>>>>> > > saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no orange
>>>>to
>>>>> > > it
>>>>> > > at all.
>>>>> > > The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base "cut
>>>>>and
>>>>> > > voided" velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is
>>>>gold
>>>>> > > thread (looks distinctly metallic).
>>>>> > > --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there....
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Hmmm...maybe I was mistaken.  I know I saw the Princess Mary Tudor
>>>>> > portrait while I was there.  I thought I saw the Elizabeth one, too.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool because I
>>>>> > discovered that her chemise had redwork on 
>>>>> the cuffs!  I hadn't heard > of
>>>>> > redwork before then and the photos I had seen of the painting didn't
>>>>have
>>>>> > enough detail to show it.   Very cool!
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Diana
>>>>> >
>>>>> > www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>>>>> > "Everything for the Costumer"
>>>>> >
>>>>> > "Become the change you want to see in the world."
>>>>> > --Ghandi
>
>
>
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: Perception of color, Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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Well, the colour name "pink" is supposed to derive from the flower, which is so called because the edges of the petals are "pinked". The uncultivated form of the flower is pink rather than scarlet.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> ruthanneb@mindspring.com 21/02/2006 19:02 >>>
Referring to those red fox-hunting jackets as "pinks" raises the additional question of just what the British historically meant when they called something "pink."
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: *Auto Saved* Re: [h-cost] Olympics costumes
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Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> wrote
>AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
>
>>  I think the costumes from last night's long program were an 
>>improvement  over  the compulsory dance ones.  I was impressed that 
>>the few I saw  actually  seemed to fit the theme of the music--Romeo 
>>and Juliet, Carmen, and  flamenco.
>
>...and then there were the Italians! 
>(http://www.nbcolympics.com/2006/0220/5121831_640X480.jpg)
>
>My first reaction to their costume was "hey, that looks like something 
>I'd put together when my daughter says 'Mom, can you make me a fantasy 
>costume for an event...it starts in an hour'" My husband called it the 
>"walked through a fabric store with glue on" look.
>
>Second reaction was: "then again, it looks like a modern interpretation 
>of some nice early Baroque opera costumes"
>
>Of course, when the music started (music from movie 'Prince of Eygypt') 
>I couldn't help but think "yeah I can see Moses and Zippora tending 
>sheep in that outfit..."
>
>But the skating was lovely!
>
>- Hope

That one was really vile, and it didn't help their presentation - when 
they did lifts, the costumes were so busy you couldn't tell which bits 
were her and which were him!

But the other Italians were just as bad - strawberry and pistachio, and 
then she turned round and it had flowers as well!  Like swimwear for 
"mature" ladies - yeugh!

I do think the short programme outfits suffered from the fact they were 
all doing "Latin", which always has ridiculously skimpy dresses.  I 
don't know if they were required to do Latin rhythms - it didn't seem to 
suit all of them as dancers.

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: Perception of color, Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 14:43:41 -0500
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Status: RO

Thanks for the many responses to my query on color perception and
'mutations'.  This has been very interesting to me with examples of both
fibers and painting/printing copies.  Through the years I have had customers
who come armed with a picture from which they expect a costume copy. Trying
to tell them that they do not have a 'fair print' for reproduction purposes,
especially regarding color, has truly been problematical. If it is a color
that was not available for the time period, there is usually fuss and
bother. Lately, I do not mind telling them to pick a 'right color' or find
someone else to do up their creation.
Sigh,
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 11:39 AM
Subject: Re: Perception of color, Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


> At 16:01 21/02/2006, you wrote:
> >Fabric dyes vary in their resistance to color
> >change.  Some dyes change color, some just fade,
> >some do both.  It also depends upon the fabric
> >itself; in my experience cottons and linens tend
> >to hold their colors better than silks.  Wools
> >have held their colors well.  I had some acetate
> >plaid taffeta that changed color while stored in
> >a dark closet under fairly constant climatic
> >conditions.  So synthetics, in my experience,
> >have the worst survival characteristics.
> >
> >Pigments for painting are generally minerals, so
> >the colors have a better chance to survive
> >intact, although where some organic pigments are
> >used, they can fade/change just like
> >fabric.  There are some minerals that do change
> >color due to chemical reactions with air, though
> >modern analytic techniques can determine what
> >the original mineral was and restore the proper
> >color.  The usual reason for color changes in
> >portraits are the accumulation of dust, soot,
> >etc., on the surface and earlier attempts to
> >protect the painting with varnish, which often darkens with age.
>
> According to QEWU "The deep pink gown is
> fashionably cut and the material is described in
> the records of Edward Vl's collection of pictures
> "....the ladye Elizabeth her grace with a booke
> in her hande her gowne like crymsen clothe of
> golde with workes". Just o confuse matters you
> understand. When I was at college we went to see
> the portraits at Windsor, and this was always
> referred to as the "Pink Princess", which tends
> to make me think that we all "saw" it as a pink dress.
>
> Suzi
>
> >>Hi,
> >>Ah yes, and the purple wheelfarthingale dress i
> >>made for Castle Selsø has turned brownish grey :-)
> >>Anyway it was a dupioni silk, and they dont
> >>hold their colours very long. Dress was exhibited in a room with morning
sun.
> >>
> >>Bjarne
> >>
> >>
> >>>Re the perception of color in these portraits:
> >>>For you who do dyeing (Natural or otherwise) did the color of dyed
textiles
> >>>of the past change because of exposure to sunlight or was there some
> >>>chemical element that was not always stable and would mute or even
mutate
> >>>over a period of time.  In the present world, I have seen color changes
on
> >>>bolts and even garments that have never seen the light of day go
entirely
> >>>from one color to another.
> >>>For instance, there is a certain grey from the middle of the 20th C,
that
> >>>seems to change to pink within a 40 yr. span.  My daughter"s pale blue
> >>>taffeta promgown from the 1990s is now a sort of interesting pale rose.
I
> >>>have a bolt of rayon velvet from the'70s that is presently an
interesting
> >>>shade of lavender.
> >>>
> >>>In reference to these portraits under discussion, might the colors on
the
> >>>canvas have changed, or the garments themselves have been 'changeable'?
> >>>
> >>>kathleen
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>Misremembering happens to all of us! <g> Seriously, though, it could
be
> >>>two
> >>>>different copies--I know that some of the portraits of Elizabeth I (as
> >>>>queen) and her sister, Mary, were done multipe times--there's that
great
> >>>>chapter in QEUnlocked that talks about them.  So it could be that,
> >>>>especially since so many of our details are similar.  And maybe it
> >>>explains
> >>>>why some of the reproductions seem so pink and others more orange? I
don't
> >>>>know about "yours"--we only had time for the National Gallery of Art
> >>>(which
> >>>>was on its last day of a Truly Cool Exhibit on Fabric in Portraits),
and
> >>>>didn't make it over to the Portrait Gallery.  Well, maybe we could
have,
> >>>if
> >>>>I hadn't been making a complete pig of myself in the bookstore. <weg>
> >>>>I've seen monochrome embroidery done in red in a couple of portraits
in my
> >>>>books, and a little of it in the Textile Rooms at the V&A.  A friend
of
> >>>mine
> >>>>says it's known as "morisco" work (spelling optional at this time of
the
> >>>>evening ;o) I *think* I've got a copy of a painting of Mary I with red
> >>>>embroidery somewhere.  I *think.*  (sorry...bad case of chocolate
cravings
> >>>>paired with knitting fatigue from the Knitting Olympics! LOL!)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> >
> >>>> > > When did you see it in the Portrait
> >>>> Gallery? I was in England in > > 2002,
> >>>>and
> >>>> > > saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no
orange
> >>>to
> >>>> > > it
> >>>> > > at all.
> >>>> > > The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base
"cut
> >>>>and
> >>>> > > voided" velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case,
is
> >>>gold
> >>>> > > thread (looks distinctly metallic).
> >>>> > > --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there....
> >>>> >
> >>>> > Hmmm...maybe I was mistaken.  I know I saw the Princess Mary Tudor
> >>>> > portrait while I was there.  I thought I saw the Elizabeth one,
too.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool
because I
> >>>> > discovered that her chemise had redwork on
> >>>> the cuffs!  I hadn't heard > of
> >>>> > redwork before then and the photos I had seen of the painting
didn't
> >>>have
> >>>> > enough detail to show it.   Very cool!
> >>>> >
> >>>> > Diana
> >>>> >
> >>>> > www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> >>>> > "Everything for the Costumer"
> >>>> >
> >>>> > "Become the change you want to see in the world."
> >>>> > --Ghandi
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 08:52:22 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] turban/veils
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Purple Elephant wrote:

> I have a general understanding of the 
>procedure, but every time I try it it seems to end up looking bulky
>and wierd. I was wondering what dimensions of veil seem to work
>best for this? 
>  
>

I use a long, narrow headcloth for this-- ie, about 35cm wide and 2m long.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

*****************************
Book now for Canterbury Faire 
http://sg.sca.org.nz/cf.htm
*****************************


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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Status: RO

The fabric I purchased is close to both color descriptions. I call it deep 
vibrant coral with a salmon hue lerking under neath the surface. Either way, 
it's close enough for us!
Now to making it.......
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


> Kate M Bunting wrote:
>
>> To me, the facial expression in the "rose pink" version looks slightly 
>> different from nos. 1 and 3. I think I remember seeing that version in 
>> the Queen's Gallery at Buckingham Palace about 20 years ago. If it's in 
>> the Royal Collection it may well now be at Windsor.
>>
>
> I can't see a difference in the paintings, myself, but it does appear they 
> were all scanned from different sources, probably photos or book pictures 
> with slightly different inks. I've never heard of there being multiple 
> copies of this portrait, from any source.
>
> I've always thought of the gown as salmon colored.
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: olympics
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I am watching plain old NBC, so I haven't seen any curling. But the ice
dancing costumes are hilarious! Some of them seem to have things stuck all
over them. Some of the women's costumes are "cut away" in very strange
places. Last night I came in the middle of one team with very nice costumes
-- I particularly liked the man's, which was a sort of burgundy costume and
had a giant cross embroidered on the back of it. My husband and I were
trying to figure out what the dance was supposed to be about, and the
announcers both remarked that the costumes told the story, and it was nice
to see a dance that was so easy to interpret! Our guess was Romeo and
Juliet, because she had a sort of Juliet cap on and they seemed to both die
at the end. But I never was certain.

My favorite outfits are the snowboarding ones, they are just too funny.
Someone went to a LOT of trouble to design bulky skiing clothes that could
hang off people's bottoms just like sweat pants!! And a lot of them have
pinstripes, which is another fun touch.

Gail Finke


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Redwork,
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 16:23:32 -0600
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I graphed it 8 years ago when I had no internet access. Did it from a book
that had the portrait in it.
De

-----Original Message-----
I think it was charted on those "temporarily removed" blackwork archives
that were parked on Drea Leeds web site.

Susan


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Olympics costumes
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 16:56:03 -0600
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

 

 Yes, some of the skating costumes are not to be believed
taste-wise(well, I guess they have to be visible from the nosebleed
seats).

If any of you watch "Project Runway" on Bravo, you know how difficult it
is to design and do a costume, especially in a two day time-frame that
the competiting designers had. 

For those of you that don't, Bravo reruns the episodes of this hit
regularly and the "On Thin Ice" challenge designing an exhibition
costume for skater Sasha Cohen is not to be missed!

Search for blogging-project-runway for a blog on all things PR. Now
includes a link to Parsons School of Design Head Tim Gunn's critique
with video of the pairs costumes. Can't wait till his ice dancing
critique comes up!

Cindy Abel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: olympics
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It was the Romeo and Juliet piece, and supposedly they are in love and very 
happy. didn't skate too bad either theresa
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


> Thank you for the description. I still wonder how the sleeves are 
> attached. There is no strap showing. Is the pearl necklace in her bodice 
> or is it attached to the edges of a very translarent partlet? One 
> description said the beading trim was attached to the under layer. What 
> under layer? Was it attached to a chemise or smock? I don't see any of it 
> except for the poofs of white.

OK the problem here is you're thinking of 2 layers, smock and gown, whereas 
there would almost certainly have been 3 smock, kirtle (which does the bust 
supporting work of a corset) and gown. The trim you see around the neckline 
would be attached to the kirtle and then the gown's neckline is cut slightly 
larger to show off the kirtle's bejewelled neckline. I seriously doubt that 
there is any partlet involved, if you look at other portraits from the same 
era http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/tudor/index.html it becomes much clearer 
that it's a necklace. Also if you look carefully at her wrist you can see 
that her cuff is gathered into a band, this, along with the perfect 
appearance of all the puffs leads me to think that they are actually faux 
puffs rather than incredibly huge chemise sleeves (as they would have to be 
to fill sleeves that large)

> I found a pdf of the costume by Nina ????. It has a white chemise with 
> blackwork on it as suggested undergarments. Is this right? I don't know. 
> Since she does so much research and garb work, I assume she knows what she 
> is talking about in this portrait.

It does look like there's some very simple blackwork (possibly blanket 
stitch) around the neckline but I can't see any evidence for that on the 
cuffs. Of course if you're not making a slavish reproduction of the portrait 
blackwork was very popular at this time and it would be equally accurate to 
have blackwork cuffs.

> Is she wearing earrings or is the trim on her hood?
> I found the perfect cloth that is the same color and pattern in the 
> portrait. That was a big start on the costume. I don't know if i can find 
> gfabric for the front and undersleeves. I guess I could embroider it 
> myself. I'd rather not have to do that much work by hand.
<snip>

It's the trim on her hood, you can see how it forms part of the pattern of 
the jewels which run all the way around the French Hood. On the topic of 
French hoods, have a look at Ninya Mikhaila's theory on French hood 
construction http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/frenchhood.html, I follow a 
similar plan, but I attach the veil to the crescent piece and by gathering a 
circle of fabric onto the under cap I make it into a caul. See Sarah 
Goodman's page http://modehistorique.com/elizabethan/coif.html for the 
evidence that convinced me that a cauls were worn underneath French Hoods. 
For the undersleeves if you're making an exact reproduction of the portrait 
it's going to be hard to find the right fabric (though I did once find a 
chenille voided velvet that looked close) I think you may have to cope with 
a flat brocade. If it makes you feel any better to find out that a 
professional costumer had to make the same compromise look at 
http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/eliztower.html
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 19:18:28 -0500
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Status: RO

I learned how to make the voided velvet in school so I can reproduce the 
same looking fabric for the under sleeve and skirt front. I found a deep 
pile velvet to use but haven't bought it yet.
So you think that the whole sleeve unit was connected since the chemise does 
not go all the way down to the wrist? I didn't see any ruff at the wrist, 
but I don't have a detail of that more than a general whole portrait. I can 
see some of the details but not too much. It gets fuzzy when I zoom in too 
close.
I think I can make the costume with little problem. I plan to take my time 
to do it right.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 10:40 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>
>
>> Thank you for the description. I still wonder how the sleeves are 
>> attached. There is no strap showing. Is the pearl necklace in her bodice 
>> or is it attached to the edges of a very translarent partlet? One 
>> description said the beading trim was attached to the under layer. What 
>> under layer? Was it attached to a chemise or smock? I don't see any of it 
>> except for the poofs of white.
>
> OK the problem here is you're thinking of 2 layers, smock and gown, 
> whereas there would almost certainly have been 3 smock, kirtle (which does 
> the bust supporting work of a corset) and gown. The trim you see around 
> the neckline would be attached to the kirtle and then the gown's neckline 
> is cut slightly larger to show off the kirtle's bejewelled neckline. I 
> seriously doubt that there is any partlet involved, if you look at other 
> portraits from the same era http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/tudor/index.html 
> it becomes much clearer that it's a necklace. Also if you look carefully 
> at her wrist you can see that her cuff is gathered into a band, this, 
> along with the perfect appearance of all the puffs leads me to think that 
> they are actually faux puffs rather than incredibly huge chemise sleeves 
> (as they would have to be to fill sleeves that large)
>
>> I found a pdf of the costume by Nina ????. It has a white chemise with 
>> blackwork on it as suggested undergarments. Is this right? I don't know. 
>> Since she does so much research and garb work, I assume she knows what 
>> she is talking about in this portrait.
>
> It does look like there's some very simple blackwork (possibly blanket 
> stitch) around the neckline but I can't see any evidence for that on the 
> cuffs. Of course if you're not making a slavish reproduction of the 
> portrait blackwork was very popular at this time and it would be equally 
> accurate to have blackwork cuffs.
>
>> Is she wearing earrings or is the trim on her hood?
>> I found the perfect cloth that is the same color and pattern in the 
>> portrait. That was a big start on the costume. I don't know if i can find 
>> gfabric for the front and undersleeves. I guess I could embroider it 
>> myself. I'd rather not have to do that much work by hand.
> <snip>
>
> It's the trim on her hood, you can see how it forms part of the pattern of 
> the jewels which run all the way around the French Hood. On the topic of 
> French hoods, have a look at Ninya Mikhaila's theory on French hood 
> construction http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/frenchhood.html, I follow a 
> similar plan, but I attach the veil to the crescent piece and by gathering 
> a circle of fabric onto the under cap I make it into a caul. See Sarah 
> Goodman's page http://modehistorique.com/elizabethan/coif.html for the 
> evidence that convinced me that a cauls were worn underneath French Hoods. 
> For the undersleeves if you're making an exact reproduction of the 
> portrait it's going to be hard to find the right fabric (though I did once 
> find a chenille voided velvet that looked close) I think you may have to 
> cope with a flat brocade. If it makes you feel any better to find out that 
> a professional costumer had to make the same compromise look at 
> http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/eliztower.html
> Let me know if you have any more questions.
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk chiffon and organza
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Hi Robin!

I would be interested in some of the white and some of the bright colours,
I am having trouble finding your addy to speak to you directly about it...

Sheridan

> Since there's been such a response, I'll go in tomorrow and buy up the
> remaining white chiffon and organza (if there is any) and probably some
> colors too.
>
> If anyone has a want list on colors, e-mail me directly -- and tell me
> what lengths you need for the piece to be useful, since some of the
> lengths will be short (that's all we have left). Some of the colors we had
> (maybe not still there, I don't know) were pretty wild: hot pink,
> goldenrod, lime green, as well as more boring pastels and beiges. I have
> no idea what is useful for different periods, though.
>
> Bear in mind too that these are lightweight, nearly transparent silks. The
> chiffon is flimsy and floaty; the organza stiffer. But you can't make a
> dress out of them (as someone who wrote me seemed to think!).
>
> Figure $3-$4/yard plus postage. Our silks normally range up to $11/yard.
>
> --Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric
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Status: RO

After a chilly first night at Estrella this year, I was able to purchase 
a pair of Merino wool socks at merchants row to keep my tootsies warm 
for the following nights.  They are soft and not at all itchy.  I began 
to think how lovely it would be to have an entire nightie made from such 
a wool.  I have started looking on the internet and haven't come up with 
much.  Any ideas on where to find wool fabric which is really, really 
soft and not itchy?

Thanks,

Sg


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Cashmere!  I'm quite sensitive to wool next to the skin (senstivity 
seems to vary a lot with the individual), but usually not pure cashmere.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

WickedFrau wrote:
Any ideas on where to find wool fabric which is really, really
> soft and not itchy?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Sg
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> After a chilly first night at Estrella this year, I was able to purchase
> a pair of Merino wool socks at merchants row to keep my tootsies warm
> for the following nights.  They are soft and not at all itchy.  I began
> to think how lovely it would be to have an entire nightie made from such
> a wool.  I have started looking on the internet and haven't come up with
> much.  Any ideas on where to find wool fabric which is really, really
> soft and not itchy?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sg

Saragrace,

Do you have a specific color in mind?  I have a butter yellow cashmere
wool that is very soft:

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/cgi-bin/showAll.cgi?id=115

but my softest is a purple cashmere wool that feels more like fleece than
wool:

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/cgi-bin/showAll.cgi?id=52

I would be happy to send you swatches if you like either one or both. 
Just send me your address again and I can get those out to you tomorrow.

Cheers,

Diana

>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 19:23:22 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was
	Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
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>You have said it! I use their edition of Braun and Schneider for lots of
>picture references so I can leave the 19th C edition on the shelf.

Braun and Schneider is online, colorized, as is Tilke's ethnic costume 
book.  Google for either one.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric
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Or alpaca....7 times as warm as wool. mmmmmm....
Or, if you were filthy stinking rich, why not qiviut? <weg>
--Sue

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric


> Cashmere!  I'm quite sensitive to wool next to the skin (senstivity 
> seems to vary a lot with the individual), but usually not pure cashmere.
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> 
> WickedFrau wrote:
> Any ideas on where to find wool fabric which is really, really
> > soft and not itchy?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Sg
> > 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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The chemise has sleeves that end in cuffs with ruffles. The white puffs that
you see on the false sleeve (gold sleeve) are not a part of the chemise
sleeve but pieces of white material sewn to look like it is the sleeve of
the chemise. The false sleeve is usually made to go just past the elbow or
further.

De

-----Original Message-----

So you think that the whole sleeve unit was connected since the chemise does
not go all the way down to the wrist? I didn't see any ruff at the wrist,
but I don't have a detail of that more than a general whole portrait. I can
see some of the details but not too much. It gets fuzzy when I zoom in too
close.


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Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 23:40:41 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Update on silk chiffon and organza
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I went over to the fabric store today and made a list of available colors.
There were too many for me to want to buy on spec, but I'll be happy to
pick up anything that anyone wants, and send it to you.

Figure $3.50/yard INCLUDING postage. These are all 100% silk (or so the
manufacturers claimed; there are occasional errors in labeling, but I
think these are pretty safe). The chiffons are lightweight and flimsy; the
organzas are lightweight and stiff. Widths range from 36 to 54 or so.

IMPORTANT: Some of the bolts are very small, so for each one you're
interested in give me a minimum (the least length you'd find useful) and a
maximum (the amount you want if there's plenty).

Send your shopping lists to me *privately*, not to the list please. I will
head out there Wednesday afternoon and again on Thursday if necessary, The
fabrics are disappearing rather fast.

DO NOT FORWARD THIS NOTE ELSEWHERE. I'm willing to do this favor for my
h-cost buddies, but I don't want to be personal shopper to the world.


CHIFFONS -- smooth

black
dark brown
medium brown
blue-grey
yellow
pale pink
pale blue
wedgwood blue
navy
plum
red
rose
peach
beige


CHIFFONS -- with a slight texture (not quite crinkled but very fine lines
or ridges going warpwise)

dark brown
medium brown
ivory
mauve/rose
green that's sort of a cross between sage and seafoam
blue-grey
kelly green
peach


ORGANZA

olive green
screaming hot pink
gunmetal grey
blue with a bit of a turquoise hint


--Robin
(what am I getting myself into?)

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Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Or alpaca....7 times as warm as wool. mmmmmm....
> Or, if you were filthy stinking rich, why not qiviut? 

I don't find alpaca to be particularly softer or warmer than a good 
quality wool.

There's always angora rabbit ...

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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Status: RO

Thanks for that description. I've never made sleeves like these and that 
helps me to understand how they are placed on the arm.
The chemise in is the sleeve, but not the seen white fabric. That is another 
fabric in the sleeve. The bell shaped ones attach to the bodice and the 
funnel ones attach above the elbow, from what you said and other tips 
received. Is this the way it should be done? If not, how?
Do you think I could slip stitch or lace them together so that they stay in 
place as one unit?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 12:04 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


> The chemise has sleeves that end in cuffs with ruffles. The white puffs 
> that
> you see on the false sleeve (gold sleeve) are not a part of the chemise
> sleeve but pieces of white material sewn to look like it is the sleeve of
> the chemise. The false sleeve is usually made to go just past the elbow or
> further.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> So you think that the whole sleeve unit was connected since the chemise 
> does
> not go all the way down to the wrist? I didn't see any ruff at the wrist,
> but I don't have a detail of that more than a general whole portrait. I 
> can
> see some of the details but not too much. It gets fuzzy when I zoom in too
> close.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


>I learned how to make the voided velvet in school so I can reproduce the 
>same looking fabric for the under sleeve and skirt front. I found a deep 
>pile velvet to use but haven't bought it yet.
> So you think that the whole sleeve unit was connected since the chemise 
> does not go all the way down to the wrist? I didn't see any ruff at the 
> wrist, but I don't have a detail of that more than a general whole 
> portrait. I can see some of the details but not too much. It gets fuzzy 
> when I zoom in too close.
> I think I can make the costume with little problem. I plan to take my time 
> to do it right.
>
No the white you see at her wrist is her chemise have a look at 
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/kideliz.jpg it's a much clearer picture 
than the one you originally posted. If you look at her left wrist you can 
see that the ruffle of fabric which drapes over her hand is slightly 
gathered into a close fitting band at the wrist, that's the cuff (not Ruff) 
I was talking about and that's the end of the chemise sleeves. The pieces of 
white fabric you see puffing out through slashes in the velvet undersleeves 
are not actually part of the chemise sleeves, instead they are pieces of the 
same fabric as the chemise (it would have been linen in the original) and 
sewn to the inside of the velvet undersleeves so they poke out through the 
slashes. The velvet undersleeves stop just above the elbow and I find whip 
stitching them onto a short sleeved kirtle (the middle layer between the 
chemise and the gown) the best way of securing them, pins also hold them on 
well but it requires a second person to do that once you're wearing it, as I 
usually have to dress myself I sew mine on.
HTH
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole  | Lady Elizabeth Beaumont
Canberra, Australia  | Politarchopolis, Lochac
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 11:00:46 +0100
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Status: RO

Definately yes. Cashmere is a dream. I made myself a coat years and years 
ago, i think 12 years ago, in Cashmere. Was very very expensive, but lovely 
soft. I still have this coat, and you cant se that i have worn this so many 
years.
Usually wool gets full of small wool balls all over, but there is not a 
single one on my coat.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 3:48 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric


> Cashmere!  I'm quite sensitive to wool next to the skin (senstivity seems 
> to vary a lot with the individual), but usually not pure cashmere.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> WickedFrau wrote:
> Any ideas on where to find wool fabric which is really, really
>> soft and not itchy?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Sg
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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From: "Nancy Kiel" <nancy_kiel@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Update on silk chiffon and organza
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 06:26:06 -0500
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How kind of you to do this!

Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.




>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Update on silk chiffon and organza
>Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 23:40:41 -0600 (CST)
>
>
>I went over to the fabric store today and made a list of available colors.
>There were too many for me to want to buy on spec, but I'll be happy to
>pick up anything that anyone wants, and send it to you.
>
>Figure $3.50/yard INCLUDING postage. These are all 100% silk (or so the
>manufacturers claimed; there are occasional errors in labeling, but I
>think these are pretty safe). The chiffons are lightweight and flimsy; the
>organzas are lightweight and stiff. Widths range from 36 to 54 or so.
>
>IMPORTANT: Some of the bolts are very small, so for each one you're
>interested in give me a minimum (the least length you'd find useful) and a
>maximum (the amount you want if there's plenty).
>
>Send your shopping lists to me *privately*, not to the list please. I will
>head out there Wednesday afternoon and again on Thursday if necessary, The
>fabrics are disappearing rather fast.
>
>DO NOT FORWARD THIS NOTE ELSEWHERE. I'm willing to do this favor for my
>h-cost buddies, but I don't want to be personal shopper to the world.
>
>
>CHIFFONS -- smooth
>
>black
>dark brown
>medium brown
>blue-grey
>yellow
>pale pink
>pale blue
>wedgwood blue
>navy
>plum
>red
>rose
>peach
>beige
>
>
>CHIFFONS -- with a slight texture (not quite crinkled but very fine lines
>or ridges going warpwise)
>
>dark brown
>medium brown
>ivory
>mauve/rose
>green that's sort of a cross between sage and seafoam
>blue-grey
>kelly green
>peach
>
>
>ORGANZA
>
>olive green
>screaming hot pink
>gunmetal grey
>blue with a bit of a turquoise hint
>
>
>--Robin
>(what am I getting myself into?)
>
>_______________________________________________
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From: "Nancy Kiel" <nancy_kiel@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
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OK, how expensive (she asks, fearing the answer)?

Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.




>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
>Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 14:46:17 +0100
>
>Hi-
>Well i never dreamed of that it excisted either, untill i saw it with my 
>own eyes. But it also is expensive...........
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Caroline" <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 12:06 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
>
>
>I really haven't seen linen this fine in England.  Maybe I haven't looked
>hard enough.
>
>On 21/02/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>>
>>Hi
>>Yes that linen i told you about some time ago, that my embroidery shop
>>has,
>>is so fine that it actually is transparent.
>>
>>Bjarne


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Status: RO

Try looking for Vyella(sp?). When I was young it was still made of wool, but 
they may have changed to a cotton blend.  It is very soft, but also a little 
expensive.

Merino sock are popping up all over these day, I bought two pair at Sears 
this past winter, so luck with finding soft wool may be changing!
Kelly


>   Any ideas on where to find wool fabric which is really, really soft and 
> not itchy?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sg
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I dont remember the exact price, but i think it was something about 350 kr. 
a meter wich is about 60 dollars a meter.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nancy Kiel" <nancy_kiel@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza


> OK, how expensive (she asks, fearing the answer)?
>
> Nancy Kiel
> nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
> Never tease a weasel!
> This is very good advice.
> For the weasel will not like it
> And teasing isn't nice.
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
>>Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 14:46:17 +0100
>>
>>Hi-
>>Well i never dreamed of that it excisted either, untill i saw it with my 
>>own eyes. But it also is expensive...........
>>
>>Bjarne
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Caroline" <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
>>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 12:06 PM
>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Tulle, Chiffon, Organza
>>
>>
>>I really haven't seen linen this fine in England.  Maybe I haven't looked
>>hard enough.
>>
>>On 21/02/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>>>
>>>Hi
>>>Yes that linen i told you about some time ago, that my embroidery shop
>>>has,
>>>is so fine that it actually is transparent.
>>>
>>>Bjarne
>
>
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric
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It's Viyella.
First made here in Derbyshire, named after a road known as the Via Gellia (with the old-fashioned English pronunciation of Latin) which was named for the Gell family who had it built in the 18th century.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com 22/02/2006 13:21 >>>
Try looking for Vyella(sp?). When I was young it was still made of wool, but 
they may have changed to a cotton blend.  It is very soft, but also a little 
expensive.

Kelly


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric
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I watch the ads in Sierra Trading Post catalogues.  They seem to garner lots
of European Woolies. I also found some other sites by googling wool undies.
A couple South American sites/Australian were also interesting.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric


> Cashmere!  I'm quite sensitive to wool next to the skin (senstivity
> seems to vary a lot with the individual), but usually not pure cashmere.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> WickedFrau wrote:
> Any ideas on where to find wool fabric which is really, really
> > soft and not itchy?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Sg
> >
> _______________________________________________
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From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Pink Fox Hunting
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>Referring to those red fox-hunting jackets as "pinks" raises the 
>additional question of just what the British historically meant when 
>they called something "pink."
>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

      My boss, an avid hunter, told me that the red fox-hunting 
jackets are called pink for a man named Pinkerton. I don't remember 
his exact title, Lord Pinkerton, perhaps?

      -Carol
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric
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Yeah-these sound great

http://www.nznature.co.nz/MSHOP:SP:296732692:tb=4

the possum fur is from an import gone feral- not the same as US possums.
My .02 lira, Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lloyd Mitchell
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 8:16 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric

I watch the ads in Sierra Trading Post catalogues.  They seem to garner lots
of European Woolies. I also found some other sites by googling wool undies.
A couple South American sites/Australian were also interesting.

Kathleen

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Redwork,
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 09:29:38 -0500
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Why does the painting have "Maria Regina" written on it?  
Just curious, Anne

> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Feb 22 09:50:44 2006
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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Redwork,
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 10:50:05 -0400
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My first Guess would be that it was miss named, either recently and is in 
fact Queen Mary, or sometime in history and has been recently discovered to 
be Bess of Hardwick.
Kelly


> Why does the painting have "Maria Regina" written on it?
> Just curious, Anne
>
>> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html
>
> -- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Redwork,
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Status: RO

Maria sometimes refered to mother. Regina- queen. SO Maria Regina might mean 
Queen Mother. The Royal Mom.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 9:29 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Redwork,


> Why does the painting have "Maria Regina" written on it?
> Just curious, Anne
>
>> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
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>
>
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Redwork,
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Status: RO

I believe Bess played host to the arrested Mary of Scotland for some 
time. It's possible the portrait was attributed to Mary at some point 
(and the inscription added) and only recently re-labelled.

Those sleeves are gorgeous!


Dawn


Becky wrote:

> Maria sometimes refered to mother. Regina- queen. SO Maria Regina might 
> mean Queen Mother. The Royal Mom.
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 9:29 AM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost]Redwork,
> 
> 
>> Why does the painting have "Maria Regina" written on it?
>> Just curious, Anne
>>
>>> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html
>>
>>

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Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 07:57:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Redwork,
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Why does the painting have "Maria Regina" written on it?
> Just curious, Anne
>
>> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html
>

That's a really good question!! Anybody know?

Diana

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Redwork,
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But Bess of Hardwick was not the Queen Mother (although she hoped her granddaughter Arbella Stuart might become queen); nor did any English or Scottish monarch at that time have their mother still alive.

Can't see the inscription on my monitor, but presumably the portrait was once thought to be Mary I.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> zeartiste@hotmail.com 22/02/2006 15:38:08 >>>
>Maria sometimes refered to mother. Regina- queen. SO Maria Regina might mean 
>Queen Mother. The Royal Mom.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 9:29 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Redwork,


> Why does the painting have "Maria Regina" written on it?
> Just curious, Anne
>
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Quoting Anne Moeller <ladyanne@quik.com>:

> Why does the painting have "Maria Regina" written on it?
> Just curious, Anne
>
>> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html
>

I wondered about that too.  It's not MQS, it doesn't look like her at
all.

Speculatio on my part -- weren't Bess and Mary Queen of Scots friends? 
Might that have been a political statement on her part?  Would that
have been a safe thing to do?

Susan
-----
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University of Tennessee
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pink Fox Hunting
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As I understand it, "Pinks" were named after the tailor who made the 
coats.

Susan

"Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness"
Carol H.


On Feb 22, 2006, at 9:22 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:

>> Referring to those red fox-hunting jackets as "pinks" raises the 
>> additional question of just what the British historically meant when 
>> they called something "pink."
>> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
>      My boss, an avid hunter, told me that the red fox-hunting jackets 
> are called pink for a man named Pinkerton. I don't remember his exact 
> title, Lord Pinkerton, perhaps?
>
>      -Carol
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Quoting Becky <zeartiste@hotmail.com>:

> Maria sometimes refered to mother. Regina- queen. SO Maria Regina 
> might mean Queen Mother. The Royal Mom.

Or, yet another thought from the delusional woman ...

Was Bess Catholic?  Mary, the Virgin, the Queen of Heaven?

Jerusha
-----
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Sort of. Bess's fourth husband, the Earl of Shrewsbury, was Mary's jailer and the two ladies did embroidery together, but later the marriage broke down on account of Bess's jealousy of Mary. Bess is buried here in Derby and Lord S. in Sheffield.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> sfarmer@goldsword.com 22/02/2006 16:26:47 >>>

Speculatio on my part -- weren't Bess and Mary Queen of Scots friends? 
Might that have been a political statement on her part?  Would that
have been a safe thing to do?

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com 
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk/'natural protein'
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E House wrote:

> So, I was looking at the Thaisilks website, and I noticed something I haven't seen elsewhere: a blend of silk with what they're calling natural protein fiber.  No information beyond that.  Does anyone have any idea what this might be?  
> <<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009Q>>
> 


Soybean?

http://www.swicofil.com/soybeanproteinfiber.html




Dawn


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Neat!  I had not heard of that.  I emailed Thaisilks--we'll see if I hear 
anything back--but I hope this is the case; reading the properties and test 
results on it, I think I may be converted.  In a non-authentic clothing sort 
of way. =}

-E House 

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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk/'natural protein'
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I did a google search, it may be "soybean protein fiber"

http://www.swicofil.com/soybeanproteinfiber.html

Katy

On 2/22/06, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> E House wrote:
>
> > So, I was looking at the Thaisilks website, and I noticed something I haven't seen elsewhere: a blend of silk with what they're calling natural protein fiber.  No information beyond that.  Does anyone have any idea what this might be?
> > <<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009Q>>
> >
>
>
> Soybean?
>
> http://www.swicofil.com/soybeanproteinfiber.html
>
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk/'natural protein'
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Quoting Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com>:

> I did a google search, it may be "soybean protein fiber"
>
> http://www.swicofil.com/soybeanproteinfiber.html

Way cool.  The protein version of rayon!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] silk/'natural protein'
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So, I was looking at the Thaisilks website, and I noticed something I haven't seen elsewhere: a blend of silk with what they're calling natural protein fiber.  No information beyond that.  Does anyone have any idea what this might be?  
<<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009Q>>

-E House
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From: "Guenievre de Monmarche" <guenievre@erminespot.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] silk/'natural protein'
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 14:00:17 -0500
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I've hand-spun a bit of the soybean fiber, a vegetarian friend bought it for
me.  It spins up QUITE similar to silk, though in fiber form it has a
slightly odd texture - kind of reminds me of the "crunch" of rayon. I
haven't made anything out of the yarn, though, so can't comment on final
product.

Guenièvre
 

  > -----Original Message-----
  > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
  > On Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
  > Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 1:46 PM
  > To: Historical Costume
  > Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk/'natural protein'
  > 
  > Quoting Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com>:
  > 
  > > I did a google search, it may be "soybean protein fiber"
  > >
  > > http://www.swicofil.com/soybeanproteinfiber.html
  > 
  > Way cool.  The protein version of rayon!
  > 
  > Susan
  > -----
  > Susan Farmer
  > sfarmer@goldsword.com
  > University of Tennessee
  > Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
  > http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
  > 
  > 
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric
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Lands End makes shirts of Viyella. Maybe they would sell some yardage if you
told them it was for a period piece.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of kelly grant
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 5:21 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric


Try looking for Vyella(sp?). When I was young it was still made of wool, but

they may have changed to a cotton blend.  It is very soft, but also a little

expensive.

Merino sock are popping up all over these day, I bought two pair at Sears 
this past winter, so luck with finding soft wool may be changing! Kelly


>   Any ideas on where to find wool fabric which is really, really soft 
> and
> not itchy?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sg
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Is there anything that they cannot use soybeans for?  

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender




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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] funky new Simplicity pattern
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I know we were talking about that new Simplicity pattern.  What I don't
remember is if anybody had pointed this piece of information out --
it's from the book itself (as well as the email that I got today from
Simplicity)

"Remarkably delicate care and attention is given to the tiny pleating
decorating both the sleeve and the hem.

Our inspiration comes from the original gown currently in a private
collection and displayed in the Victorian Bridal Museum in San Jacinto,
California."

It would be *real* interesting to see what the Original Dress looked
like!

In case you're new and haven't seen it
http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=design_linkEmail.cfm&design=4244

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: olympics
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 15:04:01 -0500
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I took the pinstripes as Yankee pinstripes -- as in the same as the New
York Yankees baseball team.

Kate
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Gail & Scott Finke
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 3:07 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: olympics


I am watching plain old NBC, so I haven't seen any curling. But the ice
dancing costumes are hilarious! Some of them seem to have things stuck
all
over them. Some of the women's costumes are "cut away" in very strange
places. Last night I came in the middle of one team with very nice
costumes
-- I particularly liked the man's, which was a sort of burgundy costume
and
had a giant cross embroidered on the back of it. My husband and I were
trying to figure out what the dance was supposed to be about, and the
announcers both remarked that the costumes told the story, and it was
nice
to see a dance that was so easy to interpret! Our guess was Romeo and
Juliet, because she had a sort of Juliet cap on and they seemed to both
die
at the end. But I never was certain.

My favorite outfits are the snowboarding ones, they are just too funny.
Someone went to a LOT of trouble to design bulky skiing clothes that
could
hang off people's bottoms just like sweat pants!! And a lot of them have
pinstripes, which is another fun touch.

Gail Finke


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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Just think how environmentally sound this is.  When your dress wears 
out, you can eat it.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Lalah wrote:

> Is there anything that they cannot use soybeans for?  
> 
> Lalah,
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk/'natural protein'
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In a message dated 2/22/2006 1:47:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:

Way  cool.  The protein version of rayon!



People have tried to make regenerated protein fibers for years--from milk  
protein and corn protein, that I remember.  None of them were commercially  
successful.  I've been out of the current textiles loop for awhile, so I  didn't 
know that there is a new one.  
 
And, an off-topic aside--the scientist who developed a forerunner of rayon  
was trying to re-create silk.  He reasoned that, if silkworms ate cellulose  
and extruded silk, he could do something similar.  Of course, re-generated  
cellulose (rayon) is still cellulose, not protein!  You may see rayon  referred to 
as "artificial silk" in early 20th century books.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: RE: [h-cost]Redwork,
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 15:33:14 -0600
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>From this picture 
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqos/maryring.jpg
compared to
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html
I don't see why the mistake
nor here
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqos/maryqos1.jpg
which is a new to me pic.
maybe
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqos/maryqosvirtutisamore.jpg
maybe
http://www.marileecody.com/maryqos/maryqos13.jpg
 


-----Original Message-----
Why does the painting have "Maria Regina" written on it?  
Just curious, Anne

> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/BessHardwick.html



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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk/'natural protein'
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He reasoned that, if silkworms ate cellulose
> and extruded silk, he could do something similar.  

and spent many happy hours eating mulberry leaves and extruding--never 
mind . . .

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060222121925.pohksnx8e8pwso80@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] funky new Simplicity pattern
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 22:57:32 +0100
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Hi,
I really think the draping in the front dont look right to me. But i 
shouldnt come with critics, it s not my period, but i would have made more 
attention to the back in stead of pulling it to the front.
Trimmings are wonderfull though, but what a lot of work with that 
pleating.................aikes

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 7:19 PM
Subject: [h-cost] funky new Simplicity pattern


>I know we were talking about that new Simplicity pattern.  What I don't
> remember is if anybody had pointed this piece of information out --
> it's from the book itself (as well as the email that I got today from
> Simplicity)
>
> "Remarkably delicate care and attention is given to the tiny pleating
> decorating both the sleeve and the hem.
>
> Our inspiration comes from the original gown currently in a private
> collection and displayed in the Victorian Bridal Museum in San Jacinto,
> California."
>
> It would be *real* interesting to see what the Original Dress looked
> like!
>
> In case you're new and haven't seen it
> http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=design_linkEmail.cfm&design=4244
>
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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To: elysabeth morris <elspethofmorr@yahoo.com>,
        arbella3@comcast.net (Crystal Deen),
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Sewing expo
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Sorry to hear that the home-front is going haywired.   Anyway, the hotel will be in Fife.  The room is supposed to be ready for us at 4 pm on Friday but I am trying to see if we can check in at 6:30- 7 PM.  I'm also going to a mapquest from the convention center to the hotel.  Oh yeah, the hotel is the Travelodge.  I'll get back to the two of you as soon as I hear from the hotel.

Love you all,
Rose

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: elysabeth morris <elspethofmorr@yahoo.com>
> OK, finally get enough cope ons to do this...
>    
>   My class list is 
>    
>   Fri 1230 Machine  failure or operator error   140
>   1330 Harmony: Proportion...   119
>    
>   Saturday 1130 Stabalizing    168
>   1230 Threads   162
>   1430 fitting solutions   124
>   1530 fit after 40   136
>   1630 be successful 165
>    
>   Sunday 1030 Knits   156
>   1330  great fitting clothing 157
> 1430  jackets  103
>    
>   I was stupid enough to not catch what time you two are going to the Katrina 
> Tea, but got a ticket for the 1130 tea.  I thought you had said the 1230- and 
> thought that's what I signed up for, but what I got was 1130.  Either way, I was 
> dumb enough to delete the email too early...
>    
>   What hotel are we staying in?  Is it in Puyallup?  I remember your saying 
> we'll have one, but never caught what hotel.
>    
>   What time have we been planning on departing Portland Friday?  I could use the 
> class at 1230, but won't perish if I have to miss it.  I want to get to the one 
> at 1330 though...
>    
>   On the Home front, Little John still hasn't got an answer from the doctor re: 
> return to work.  If he doesn't go back to work by next Tuesday, he'll be out of 
> a job.  If he has to find another job, and does so quickly, we won't have to 
> move.  He's procrastinating as usual, and nothing I can say will encourage him 
> to act on anything any sooner... temporary disability, checking with his 
> contacts: re: the jobs he's considering, finding a residence of lower cost but 
> acceptible habitation...
>   I'm holding together, but between this and hormonal issues (night sweats are 
> back in swing...and emotional libility...did I mention stress?) I have my 
> moments...
>    
>   He wants to buy a kiln for Precious Metal Clay (PMC), and I'm trying to 
> encourage him to pay for COBRA benefits for at least a month if he has to. 
>    
>   Life Goes on.
>    
>   Time to get ready for work.
>    
>   hugs to you both,
>   Beth
>    


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References: <20060222121925.pohksnx8e8pwso80@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] funky new Simplicity pattern
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 11:36:06 +1300
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> Our inspiration comes from the original gown currently in a private
> collection and displayed in the Victorian Bridal Museum in San Jacinto,
> California."

Yeah, I noticed on the front photo that it said "Wrights Victorian Bridal
Museum" so I did a seatch. There is a website, but it is down.
http://www.victorianbridalmuseum.com/

http://web.archive.org/web/20030203084751/victorianbridalmuseum.com/lectures/

Found it.

It does have a bit of a funny shape, but not quite the same as the
simplicity;)

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: hunting pinks
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18th century I think

name believed to derive from a tailor in London called Thomas Pink who 
specialized in field jackets - he used a very tightly woven red cloth that was 
resistant to thorns and branches, and was showerproof.

debs

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] funky new Simplicity pattern
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In a message dated 2/22/2006 5:38:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
thebruce@ihug.co.nz writes:

It does  have a bit of a funny shape, but not quite the same as  the
simplicity;)



************************
 
Yes...the poufs are still at the side but are lower, almost to the knees  
[the bottom of the poufs do indeed come to the knees]. A lovely gown  though.
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Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 20:52:11 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] silk/'natural protein'
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They are now producing fabric from soy protein, I believe.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 3:23 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk/'natural protein'



In a message dated 2/22/2006 1:47:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:

Way  cool.  The protein version of rayon!



People have tried to make regenerated protein fibers for years--from milk
protein and corn protein, that I remember.  None of them were commercially
successful.  I've been out of the current textiles loop for awhile, so I
didn't
know that there is a new one.

And, an off-topic aside--the scientist who developed a forerunner of rayon
was trying to re-create silk.  He reasoned that, if silkworms ate cellulose
and extruded silk, he could do something similar.  Of course, re-generated
cellulose (rayon) is still cellulose, not protein!  You may see rayon
referred to
as "artificial silk" in early 20th century books.

Ann Wass
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] funky new Simplicity pattern
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Quoting michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>:

>> Our inspiration comes from the original gown currently in a private
>> collection and displayed in the Victorian Bridal Museum in San Jacinto,
>> California."
>
> Yeah, I noticed on the front photo that it said "Wrights Victorian Bridal
> Museum" so I did a seatch. There is a website, but it is down.
> http://www.victorianbridalmuseum.com/
>
> http://web.archive.org/web/20030203084751/victorianbridalmuseum.com/lectures/
>
> Found it.
>
> It does have a bit of a funny shape, but not quite the same as the
> simplicity;)

At least Simplicity's designer had something to work with besides Thin
Air!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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If anyone can help me with this, I figure it is the folks on this  list.  
Anyone have an idea what the Roma people were wearing in the early  19th 
century--say, 180-1820?  I'm assuming there were wandering Europe  then.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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Status: RO

So, my husband has sorta kinda hesitantly mentioned that, seeing as there are occasionally cannons present at SCA events, he might be interested in attending at some point.  I now have the job of finding clothing that he can stand to wear.

Yeeeee.

At the moment, I basically have two clues: he likes old west inspired stuff, specifically this (authentic for 500 years from now, maybe) look:
http://merry-lover1.tripod.com/mal1.jpg 
(I made him the coat, which is now pretty much his favorite item of clothing).  My other clue is that he likes US Rev War uniform style stuff; he also mentioned 'piratey type stuff.'  

Additionally, though I haven't asked him, I'm pretty sure there are several things he would never not ever nevernevernever wear: ruffs, codpieces, 'pumpkin pants,' tightly fitted hose, floor-length tunics/cotes, and houppes.  It's possible that he'll take a look at those and surprise me, but I'd be, well, surprised.

I haven't looked much at all at men's clothing; all I know of it is what I've seen in the same paintings that I'm examining for women's clothing, which limits my knowledge to 14-16thC western Europe, with a smattering of 12thC ditto. 

So anyway, the one common thread I found in all the styles he kinda likes is a knee-lengthish coat/jacket/whatever that's reasonably fitted but not supertight, with boring non-slashed sleeves, preferrably cuffed.  Based on what teeny tiny bit I know about men's clothing, my immediate ideas are late 16thC Polish, ditto Turkish or Persian, and who knows when Russian and Mongol.  

Here's the plea: does anyone have any other ideas?  and can anyone point me to some good visual sources for my ideas or theirs?  For the moment, redrawings are fine--I just need some pics I can run by him that are sorta kinda close to something that actually existed, at least in spirit and general silhouette.

(Incidentally, if I were to go by the period of history and the area that he'd be most interested in, it would probably be 16thC Swiss, but... from looking at the clothing? Not gonna happen.)

-E House
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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On Thursday 23 February 2006 1:10 am, E House wrote:
[snip]
> So anyway, the one common thread I found in all the styles he kinda likes
> is a knee-lengthish coat/jacket/whatever that's reasonably fitted but not
> supertight, with boring non-slashed sleeves, preferrably cuffed.  Based on
> what teeny tiny bit I know about men's clothing, my immediate ideas are
> late 16thC Polish, ditto Turkish or Persian, and who knows when Russian and
> Mongol.

Those should all work, though I'm guessing that he'll be happiest with the 
late 16th c Polish stuff.  Fortunately, the Reconstructing History site sells 
patterns for such coats:

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/polish.html


Very early 18th century might work also.  That was another period of 
kneelength coats, though he may not fancy the hats or hairstyles that went 
with them.  Look at the sketches on this page of men's clothes for the years 
1700-1705 and 1705-1710 and you should see what I mean.

http://www.englishcountrydancing.org/clothing2.html

Good luck!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Status: RO


Umm, scandalous idea...why not early 17thC,  Venetians and a boring ol' 
doublet? They would be in the rightish time period for black powder(cannon). 
  Fencers are already wearing that time period, even though most in the SCa 
do not approve.  It isn't a very poufy time period, he'd still be wearing 
pants.

Just a thought, if it works so that your husband will come out and play with 
you....

Kelly


"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus


>So, my husband has sorta kinda hesitantly mentioned that, seeing as there 
>are occasionally cannons present at SCA events, he might be interested in 
>attending at some point.  I now have the job of finding clothing that he 
>can stand to wear.
>
>Yeeeee.
>(Incidentally, if I were to go by the period of history and the area that 
>he'd be most interested in, it would probably be 16thC Swiss, but... from 
>looking at the clothing? Not gonna happen.)
>
>-E House


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Yes, I would have suggested that, but I thought the SCA stopped at 1600? He could wear doublet and breeches (no codpiece) with a plain falling band - no need for lace or ribbons if he doesn't want them.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com 23/02/2006 11:45 >>>

>Umm, scandalous idea...why not early 17thC,  Venetians and a boring ol' 
>doublet? They would be in the rightish time period for black powder(cannon). 
>  Fencers are already wearing that time period, even though most in the SCa 
>do not approve.  
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] modes bows and manners
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Hello all,
Want to thank you all for your intputs of my questions regarding greetings
bows and manners.
I travel to Frankfurt tomorrow early morning to visit the most excelent
crafters of costume making in Europe. They were so kind to invite me for a
full weekend event at Frankfurt. I have packed my trunk with my most
expensive costumes, hoping they have an iron i could borrow when i arrive.
This is the first time i am going for an event for several days, so
therefore i have packed my trunk to the limit including mundane, and high
fashion for 2 days, cloak and stockings, shirts, stocks, shoes, walking
sticks, pomanders, and 3 wigs. Oh what fun it will be,. If my hostest will
alow, i shal provide the list with photos online, when i get back. I have to
wear my hat in a plastic bag, besides my handbag for the airplane.
I will not be an unpolite gentleman, but i shall kiss my thumb when kissing
the ladies hands..................

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:funky Simplicity Pattern
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What really interests me is that Simplicity is coming out with reasonably high quality, mass produced stuff that is a step or two beyond costume.  
   
  This and Martha McCains stuff, while geared to a mass market of modern sewists, to me looks pretty good, more authentic than just the Halloween costumes that other pattern companies put out.  Normally I can't stand marketing and being marketed to, but when it's something I really want, it's different.  I wait for the new Simplicitys with an eagerness that I have not had in years.
   
  And does this mean that some section of the costumer/reenactor community has reached a critcal mass that is being recognized by the/a major pattern company?...  That it's worth their while to develop and sell patterns to this niche?
   
  I can't wait for the 18cent patterns that Martha McCain/Simplicity that are rumored to be coming out sometime in the future.  Martha McCain, I know you are out there.......You go girl.  
   
  18c Mia in Charlotte, NC.  

		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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In a message dated 2/23/2006 1:53:15 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cathy@thyrsus.com writes:

Those  should all work, though I'm guessing that he'll be happiest with the 
late  16th c Polish stuff.  Fortunately, the Reconstructing History site 
sells  
patterns for such  coats:

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/polish.html




Those look very dashing!  And sound like the coat you say he will  wear.
 
Ann Wass
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In a message dated 2/23/2006 8:56:45 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com writes:

And does  this mean that some section of the costumer/reenactor community has 
reached a  critical mass that is being recognized by the/a major pattern  
company?...  That it's worth their while to develop and sell patterns to  this 
niche?



Well, yes, they are market driven.  And, since that is the case, I  urge 
folks to BUY.  If a pattern's sales drop, then it is pulled, so  let's keep the 
ACW patterns going.  
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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Status: RO

I have this exact problem with my hubby too.  Here is what I have 
proposed to him and he seems close to accepting it.  He has even 
considered tights as long as his coat comes over his hips. 

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/b/bruegel/pieter_e/painting/children/  
(This by Pieter the Elder)

Look up in the right hand corner of the painting and you will see a boy 
with a stick raised over his head.  He has on "regular" pants!  If you 
look around the painting you will see varying degrees of pants from 
"tights" on to the afore mentioned ones.  This garb is easy to make and 
doesn't cost a fortune.  Also, there is a great variety of overwear.  If 
you look through more of his (don't forget his relatives!)  paintings 
you will see great detail and even more choices. 

Since I also ride at events I have adopted the men's skirted overcoat 
and riding tights.  Covers my butt!

I have also offered a cloak, which he can wear and be "incognito"!

Sg

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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] modes bows and manners
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Status: RO

Dear Bjarne,
If you're going to be among the most excellent crafters of costume making in Europe, you should be perfectly at home. Have a wonderful time. It would be wonderful for us to see pictures if you're permitted to post them.
By the way, did your stockings from Jas. Townsend finally arrive?
Bon voyage!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Sent: Feb 23, 2006 8:36 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] modes bows and manners
>
>Hello all,
>Want to thank you all for your intputs of my questions regarding greetings
>bows and manners.
>I travel to Frankfurt tomorrow early morning to visit the most excelent
>crafters of costume making in Europe. They were so kind to invite me for a
>full weekend event at Frankfurt. I have packed my trunk with my most
>expensive costumes, hoping they have an iron i could borrow when i arrive.
>This is the first time i am going for an event for several days, so
>therefore i have packed my trunk to the limit including mundane, and high
>fashion for 2 days, cloak and stockings, shirts, stocks, shoes, walking
>sticks, pomanders, and 3 wigs. Oh what fun it will be,. If my hostest will
>alow, i shal provide the list with photos online, when i get back. I have to
>wear my hat in a plastic bag, besides my handbag for the airplane.
>I will not be an unpolite gentleman, but i shall kiss my thumb when kissing
>the ladies hands..................
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hunting pinks
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THANK YOU! Subject of idle speculation on my part from time to time for years!
I'm accustomed to being mildly disconcerted by some British terminology, but this one finally makes sense!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Debloughcostumes@aol.com
>Sent: Feb 22, 2006 6:03 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: hunting pinks
>
>18th century I think
>
>name believed to derive from a tailor in London called Thomas Pink who 
>specialized in field jackets - he used a very tightly woven red cloth that was 
>resistant to thorns and branches, and was showerproof.
>
>debs
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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Status: RO

*koff*
Speaking as a long-term, albeit fairly relaxed, SCA member, that sort of
outfit also occurs in the 16th.  (dang, but this is hard to type with a
pyrring cat in one's arms!)
At any rate, there are less-poofy doublets and such in Janet Arnold.  The
one dealing with clothing from 1560-1620.  Something more merchant/middle
class might be more appealing than something upper-class, also.
I must admit, though, that my first thought was also something more
eastern-European (Hungarian, Polish, etc.).  Or maybe something Middle
Eastern? Or even Mongolian? Or Norse?  All those cultures, within the SCA
time period, used pants....
--Sue from Montana

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 4:45 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband


>
> Umm, scandalous idea...why not early 17thC,  Venetians and a boring ol'
> doublet? They would be in the rightish time period for black
powder(cannon).
>   Fencers are already wearing that time period, even though most in the
SCa
> do not approve.  It isn't a very poufy time period, he'd still be wearing
> pants.
>
> Just a thought, if it works so that your husband will come out and play
with
> you....
>
> Kelly


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Or corn.  (No, I'm not kidding...the fiber is known as "ingeo," if I'm not
mistaken).  Both soy and corn produce something similar to silk, fiber-wise.
I have not spun it myself, or knitted with it, though.  Some people like it,
some don't.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk/'natural protein'


> Neat!  I had not heard of that.  I emailed Thaisilks--we'll see if I hear
> anything back--but I hope this is the case; reading the properties and
test
> results on it, I think I may be converted.  In a non-authentic clothing
sort
> of way. =}
>
> -E House
>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Men's shoes 1800-1810 question
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Hi,

I was wondering wat kind of shoes a men would be wearing at a ball in 
1800-1810.
I have some pictures of men but they are wearing boots and I am not sure 
if that would be right for dancing.

Greetings,
    Deredere

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Feb 23 09:56:41 2006
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Tricky.

What about something like
http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?45768+0+0

It does involve tight-fitting hose from the knee down at least, but it's 
somewhat butch and knee-length, with a great gown (call it an overcoat!) 
overtop.

Or this
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan18.jpg

which has gaiters on the bottom rather than hose.  You could probably 
get away with knee-length boots...  I've seen this outfit done, and it's 
so cool!

Both of these are from the mid-16th century.

Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler

http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] funky new Simplicity pattern
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In a message dated 2/22/2006 9:34:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:

At least  Simplicity's designer had something to work with besides  Thin
Air!



*****************
 
C'mon Susan....nobody works from thin air. Don't you watch Project  Runway??? 
 ;-)
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E House wrote:

> Here's the plea: does anyone have any other ideas?  and can anyone point me to some good visual sources for my ideas or theirs?  For the moment, redrawings are fine--I just need some pics I can run by him that are sorta kinda close to something that actually existed, at least in spirit and general silhouette.
> 

Hand him Braun & Scheider, or point him at the website 
(http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/history.html) and ask him what he likes.

You might also get him in touch with another SCA guy, so he can talk to 
someone who is enthusiastic about (or at least comfortable with ) the 
clothing. I've known a lot of guys afraid of looking silly, until the 
peer pressure convinced them that baby blue velvet pants with a satin 
lining and lace cuffs were cool.

And talk to him about fasteners. I found out *after* making my husband 
his first outfit that he absolutely hates period hooks and ties, so now 
we always do buttons and discrete elastics.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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In a message dated 2/23/2006 9:26:18 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wickedfrau@msn.com writes:

I have  also offered a cloak, which he can wear and be  "incognito"!



***************
 
Yes, why not something Renn, but long enough to cover the "tights". Those  
Polish things don't look too different from any other long [or sorta long-ish]  
Renn garment.
 
Remember, leather and boots greatly "butch up" an outfit....but are  
expensive.
 
I know! A full set of armor! That'll be butch enough! If he feels  
embarrassed, he can just lower his beaver......
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] modes bows and manners
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NO-
Wearing nylons white................:-/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 3:38 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] modes bows and manners


> Dear Bjarne,
> If you're going to be among the most excellent crafters of costume making 
> in Europe, you should be perfectly at home. Have a wonderful time. It 
> would be wonderful for us to see pictures if you're permitted to post 
> them.
> By the way, did your stockings from Jas. Townsend finally arrive?
> Bon voyage!
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>Sent: Feb 23, 2006 8:36 AM
>>To: h-costume@indra.com
>>Subject: [h-cost] modes bows and manners
>>
>>Hello all,
>>Want to thank you all for your intputs of my questions regarding greetings
>>bows and manners.
>>I travel to Frankfurt tomorrow early morning to visit the most excelent
>>crafters of costume making in Europe. They were so kind to invite me for a
>>full weekend event at Frankfurt. I have packed my trunk with my most
>>expensive costumes, hoping they have an iron i could borrow when i arrive.
>>This is the first time i am going for an event for several days, so
>>therefore i have packed my trunk to the limit including mundane, and high
>>fashion for 2 days, cloak and stockings, shirts, stocks, shoes, walking
>>sticks, pomanders, and 3 wigs. Oh what fun it will be,. If my hostest will
>>alow, i shal provide the list with photos online, when i get back. I have 
>>to
>>wear my hat in a plastic bag, besides my handbag for the airplane.
>>I will not be an unpolite gentleman, but i shall kiss my thumb when 
>>kissing
>>the ladies hands..................
>>
>>Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men's shoes 1800-1810 question
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At 10:12 23/02/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I was wondering wat kind of shoes a men would be wearing at a ball 
>in 1800-1810.
>I have some pictures of men but they are wearing boots and I am not 
>sure if that would be right for dancing.
>
>Greetings,
>    Deredere


Flat pumps, very like ladies' shoes of the same period.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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At 14:56 23/02/2006, you wrote:
>*koff*
>Speaking as a long-term, albeit fairly relaxed, SCA member, that sort of
>outfit also occurs in the 16th.  (dang, but this is hard to type with a
>pyrring cat in one's arms!)
>At any rate, there are less-poofy doublets and such in Janet Arnold.  The
>one dealing with clothing from 1560-1620.  Something more merchant/middle
>class might be more appealing than something upper-class, also.
>I must admit, though, that my first thought was also something more
>eastern-European (Hungarian, Polish, etc.).  Or maybe something Middle
>Eastern? Or even Mongolian? Or Norse?  All those cultures, within the SCA
>time period, used pants....
>--Sue from Montana



>Try to find "Vecellio's Renaissance Costume Book" - Dover. It has 
>16th century drawings of Polish, Russian, Huyngarian, Turkish etc. 
>etc. A lot looks like the sort of thing being suggested, but he 
>could have a wide range of pictures to choose from.


Suzi



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Subject: [h-cost] Martha to Mia - I needed that!
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 I can't wait for the 18cent patterns that Martha McCain/Simplicity that are
rumored to be coming out sometime in the future.  Martha McCain, I know you
are out there.......You go girl.

  18c Mia in Charlotte, NC.



Thanks for the words of encouragement.  I've been working on the 18th
century patterns for a almost two years. (The people at Simplicity assume
I'm dead.) These are much harder to make mass-marketable than the Civil War
ones. By the mid nineteenth century, paper patterns, much as we know them
today, were available. So the sewing style that went with that is almost
modern in its mind set.  But the 18th century gowns were "built on the
body." It's tricky to reach a compromise of what's really accurate and
what's possible for most people to be willing to attempt.  I'm hoping to
publish a companion piece separately to show how to "really" make the
garments and to share the research I've done.  Too few hours in the day!

Martha




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Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 09:28:39 -0600
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] funky new Simplicity pattern
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Quoting AlbertCat@aol.com:

>
> In a message dated 2/22/2006 9:34:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:
>
> At least  Simplicity's designer had something to work with besides  Thin
> Air!
>
>
>
> *****************
>
> C'mon Susan....nobody works from thin air. Don't you watch Project  Runway???
> ;-)

Actually, my husband does.  I've watched precious little TV with this
dissertation.  Any Babylon 5 fans here?  Anybody remember Garibaldi's
"monolog" on "why thin air?"?

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] Pictures of my husbands 19th century costume
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Finally I have pictures!
Doesn't he look handsome :-) .

http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19man/Men19th/Men19th.html

The hat he is wearing is an original from 1850 at least that is wat 
toled to me.
It is my fhirst 19th century men's costume and I think I can do better 
but I am happy it is finished.

Greetings,
       Deredere

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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Quoting Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>:

> Yes, I would have suggested that, but I thought the SCA stopped at 
> 1600? He could wear doublet and breeches (no codpiece) with a plain 
> falling band - no need for lace or ribbons if he doesn't want them.

The official cut-off is "pre-16th Century" but most groups allow some
wiggle room.  In Meridies (SE United States), your Arts & Sciences
entries have to be documentable *before* 1601.  Which unfortunately
lets out those cool beaded baskets and the embroidered caskets/chests!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Status: RO

If you follow fashion, sometimes I think they use thin air to hold the 
garments on the models. No wait they use double sticky tape, don't they?
I guess that brings up the story of the Emperor's New clothes....
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] funky new Simplicity pattern


> Quoting AlbertCat@aol.com:
>
>>
>> In a message dated 2/22/2006 9:34:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>> sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:
>>
>> At least  Simplicity's designer had something to work with besides  Thin
>> Air!
>>
>>
>>
>> *****************
>>
>> C'mon Susan....nobody works from thin air. Don't you watch Project 
>> Runway???
>> ;-)
>
> Actually, my husband does.  I've watched precious little TV with this
> dissertation.  Any Babylon 5 fans here?  Anybody remember Garibaldi's
> "monolog" on "why thin air?"?
>
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 09:54:48 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Martha to Mia - I needed that!
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If I may be so bold as to add another word of encouragement to you,
Martha, I'm very much looking forward to your 18th century line as well.
I am a huge fan of your mid 19th century patterns and I know that you
will do the 18th century proud as well. 

Karen
Seamstrix




On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 10:33:48 -0500 "Martha Kelly"
<marthakelly@nyc.rr.com> writes:
>  I can't wait for the 18cent patterns that Martha McCain/Simplicity 
> that are
> rumored to be coming out sometime in the future.  Martha McCain, I 
> know you
> are out there.......You go girl.
> 
>   18c Mia in Charlotte, NC.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the words of encouragement.  I've been working on the 
> 18th
> century patterns for a almost two years. (The people at Simplicity 
> assume
> I'm dead.) These are much harder to make mass-marketable than the 
> Civil War
> ones. By the mid nineteenth century, paper patterns, much as we know 
> them
> today, were available. So the sewing style that went with that is 
> almost
> modern in its mind set.  But the 18th century gowns were "built on 
> the
> body." It's tricky to reach a compromise of what's really accurate 
> and
> what's possible for most people to be willing to attempt.  I'm 
> hoping to
> publish a companion piece separately to show how to "really" make 
> the
> garments and to share the research I've done.  Too few hours in the 
> day!
> 
> Martha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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In a message dated 2/23/2006 10:38:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl writes:

Doesn't  he look handsome :-) .



Very nice!
 
His long hair was in style then, y'know. No need to tie it back really.  Just 
fill it full of Macassar oil.  :-P
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From: Carletta da Nicolosi <carletta_nicolosi@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Redwork
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Out of curiosity and basically ignorance on this style of embroidery, what is the earliest documentable date redwork was used on garments?  It is stunning!
   
  Thanks to everyone for bringing this to the list.
   
  Carletta



		
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http://www.mediaevalmisc.com/pp21-23.htm
http://www.mediaevalmisc.com/pp41-43.htm
http://www.mediaevalmisc.com/pp56-58.htm
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/elizabethan.html
http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/german.html doublet and
plunderhose

Some patterns to consider when you get an idea of what he wants.



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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 10:34:58 -0600
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-----Original Message-----
>Umm, scandalous idea...why not early 17thC,  Venetians and a boring ol'
>doublet? They would be in the rightish time period for black
powder(cannon). >>>

*You have cannons in the 16th century
http://www.st-max.org/images/woodcuts/Landsknecht_Artillery-3.jpg

>  Fencers are already wearing that time period, even though most in the SCa
>do not approve.

It's tolerated but SCA time frame ends Dec.31 1600, so I'm sure you can
understand why some disaprove of people dressing in clothing past that
ending date.
Kind of like someone showing up to a Hastings event in a tudor outfit.


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At 9:27 AM -0700 2/23/06, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>Thanks for the words of encouragement.  I've been working on the 18th
>century patterns for a almost two years. (The people at Simplicity assume
>I'm dead.) These are much harder to make mass-marketable than the Civil War
>ones. By the mid nineteenth century, paper patterns, much as we know them
>today, were available. So the sewing style that went with that is almost
>modern in its mind set.  But the 18th century gowns were "built on the
>body." It's tricky to reach a compromise of what's really accurate and
>what's possible for most people to be willing to attempt.  I'm hoping to
>publish a companion piece separately to show how to "really" make the
>garments and to share the research I've done.  Too few hours in the day!

And I'm awaiting them eagerly!!! Hopefully soon??? And will the 
companion piece be put out by you or Simplicity???
Ta
Carol--ready to trot on down to ye olde JoAnnes....
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 181
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> At least  Simplicity's designer had something to work with besides 
Thin
> Air!
> *****************
> C'mon Susan....nobody works from thin air. Don't you watch Project 
Runway???
> ;-)
Actually, my husband does.  I've watched precious little TV with this
dissertation.  Any Babylon 5 fans here?  Anybody remember Garibaldi's
"monolog" on "why thin air?"?
Susan
-----

you mean:
"Thin air? Why is it always thin air? Never fat air, chubby air,
mostly-fit-could-stand-lose-a-few-pounds air?" 
	-- Garibaldi to a Supervisor in Babylon 5:"Grey 17 is Missing"

Always one of my favorite characters on B5 :).  
Altho on Project Runway I think they are sometimes pulling things from
an unmentionable place, not thin air :) :) :)

Catherine

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 181
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Quoting Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu>:


> you mean:
> "Thin air? Why is it always thin air? Never fat air, chubby air,
> mostly-fit-could-stand-lose-a-few-pounds air?"
> 	-- Garibaldi to a Supervisor in Babylon 5:"Grey 17 is Missing"

yessss!  And the temptation is to say, I think my favorite monologue is
...  but I"ve got this dang dissertation staring me in the face!

>
> Always one of my favorite characters on B5 :).
> Altho on Project Runway I think they are sometimes pulling things from
> an unmentionable place, not thin air :) :) :)

Oh, yeah.  I was looking through the Vogue pattern book a few months
ago, and they have one of *those* in print.  At least *I* think it's
one of those -- your mileage may vary; and that's why we're all
different!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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otsisto wrote:

>> Fencers are already wearing that time period, even though most in the SCa
>>do not approve.
> 
> 
> It's tolerated but SCA time frame ends Dec.31 1600, so I'm sure you can
> understand why some disaprove of people dressing in clothing past that
> ending date.
> Kind of like someone showing up to a Hastings event in a tudor outfit.
> 

It really depends on the group you play with. In a kingdom long ago and 
far away we happily did 1630-ish fashion and nobody blinked. But there 
were a bunch of people already doing it. My current local group seems to 
have different interests and focus and I'd probably be out of place in 
"cavalier" fashion.

If the husband is reluctant, dressing him very differently from the 
other men in the group may just make him more uncomfortable and not want 
to play. Something to take into account when you discuss what he likes...



Dawn


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Becky wrote:
> If you follow fashion, sometimes I think they use thin air to hold the 
> garments on the models. No wait they use double sticky tape, don't they?
> I guess that brings up the story of the Emperor's New clothes....

No, no, they use PhotoShop.

Fran
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Subject: [h-cost] RE:  Men's shoes 1800-1810 question
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>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>>I was wondering wat kind of shoes a men would be wearing at a ball in 
>>1800-1810.  I have some pictures of men but they are wearing boots and I 
>>am not sure if that would be right for dancing.
>>Greetings,
>>Deredere
>Flat pumps, very like ladies' shoes of the same period.

Deredre,
You are correct that boots are inappropriate for a ball (in that period, or 
pretty much any other, except under specific circumstances).  Men's pumps in 
this period are a sort of half turned-shoe with a low heel attached.  They 
are made as straights.

http://www.thehcc.org/discus/messages/4/2696.jpg depicts "Admiral Nelsons" 
pumps, and were probably hastilly made since the toe spring shouldn't be 
that extreme.  These are from a bit earlier than you were asking about, but 
might put you into right ball park.  The buckle goes away about this time 
and is eventually replaced by a small bow.

Marc


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Subject: [h-cost] need some 18th century corset advice
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Hi folks!
 
I'm about to embark on my first post-elizabethan corset. I'd prefer to draft it myself, but since I don't have time for that, I'm making it from the Butterick pattern, which I believe is a mid-18th century corset. (http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4254=x&TI='corset'&page=1) But I have a few questions. Last night I measured all the pieces and found that there is only about an inch difference between the bustline and the waist. Is this correct? I thought the silhouette for that period was supposed to be conical. Given my own measurements, cylindrical doesn't sound at all comfortable for me. 
 
I know that in Elizabethan corsetry, one takes two inches off for the "squish" factor, but the manufacturers have four to five inches of "squish," according to their sizing chart. This could be accounted for if the corset, which has front and back lacing, were to be left open two inches at each closure, but the pattern, of course, doesn't have instructions for wearing the corset, just making it. And the pictures suggest it should be laced completely closed. 
 
Finally, I bought some linen to make the corset out of, but the weave doesn't seem sturdy enough to hold the cable ties in, so I bought some cotton duck to line and interline it. Should I sew the boning channels through all three layers, or sew through the lining only and cover the outside with the linen? 
 
Maybe I shouldn't put so much effort into a corset for a pirate costume, but I've always wanted a colonial dress, so if I had the underpinnings for one, I'd have an excuse to make it, right? :)
 
Tea Rose
 
 
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That's funny!!!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 11:45 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 181


>> At least  Simplicity's designer had something to work with besides 
> Thin
>> Air!
>> *****************
>> C'mon Susan....nobody works from thin air. Don't you watch Project 
> Runway???
>> ;-)
> Actually, my husband does.  I've watched precious little TV with this
> dissertation.  Any Babylon 5 fans here?  Anybody remember Garibaldi's
> "monolog" on "why thin air?"?
> Susan
> -----
> 
> you mean:
> "Thin air? Why is it always thin air? Never fat air, chubby air,
> mostly-fit-could-stand-lose-a-few-pounds air?" 
> -- Garibaldi to a Supervisor in Babylon 5:"Grey 17 is Missing"
> 
> Always one of my favorite characters on B5 :).  
> Altho on Project Runway I think they are sometimes pulling things from
> an unmentionable place, not thin air :) :) :)
> 
> Catherine
> 
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If you're thinking about 16th century Bruegel peasant, don't miss this web site: http://www.houseofpung.net/cgi-bin/clothes.cgi/flemish/man/index.html
 
I didn't think my husband would go for the tights, either, but when I showed him the pictures at the above site of a real modern-day guy wearing the outfit, he decided it was okay. I think some guys secretly want to dress up but are afraid to admit it.
 
Tea Rose
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I'm waiting for these patterns too! My main area of interest is Elizabethan, but I've always wanted an 18th century outfit, so a commercial pattern would be wonderful. And the companion piece sounds great too! 
 
Tea Rose
 
==================================================================
 
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 10:33:48 -0500
From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Martha to Mia - I needed that!

Thanks for the words of encouragement.  I've been working on the 18th
century patterns for a almost two years. (The people at Simplicity assume
I'm dead.) 
 I'm hoping to publish a companion piece separately to show how to "really" make the
garments and to share the research I've done.  Too few hours in the day!

Martha
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Subject: Re: OT: B5 (was [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 181
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Quoting Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>:

>
> Susan wrote:
>
>> Any Babylon 5 fans here?  Anybody remember Garibaldi's "monolog" on
>> "why thin air?"?
>
> (raises hand, looks around, sees Catherine...)
>
> --Robin
> "No boom today. Boom tomorrow. There's always a boom tomorrow."
>

"Who am I? I am Susan Ivanova. Commander. Daughter of Andre and Sophie
Ivanov. I am the right hand of vengeance and the boot that is going to
kick your sorry ass all the way back to Earth, sweetheart. I am death
incarnate, and the last living thing that you are ever going to see.
God sent me."

Susan Richardova (not to be confused with Susan Ivanova)
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Belatedly sharing the reason I could pull that quote from, hrmmmp, 'thin
air' :);
http://www.cs.tut.fi/~albert/Quotes/B5-quotes.html 

Susan; it's fun to cruise for stress relief :).

Costume content:  besides the great characters and storyline, I've
always thought this show was one of the better examples for using
costuming to define characters, especially the different alien races.  

Catherine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:  Men's shoes 1800-1810 question
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Though they are not images of extant shoes, so not as useful for details 
as the image Marc posted, here are some drawings of people dancing. They 
should provide an idea of what men's dance shoes were like, at least at 
the latter end of your date range (and a bit beyond):
http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/rgnclfil.html#danc

- Hope



> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk
> I was wondering wat kind of shoes a men would be wearing at a ball in 
> 1800-1810.  I have some pictures of men but they are wearing boots 

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Susan wrote:
>>> Any Babylon 5 fans here?  <snip>

On monologues, Robin wrote:
>> --Robin
>> "No boom today. Boom tomorrow. There's always a boom tomorrow.">>

Colleen raises hand as a B5 fan - thanks to Robin's influence ;-)

> "Who am I? I am Susan Ivanova. Commander. Daughter of Andre and Sophie
> Ivanov. I am the right hand of vengeance and the boot that is going to
> kick your sorry ass all the way back to Earth, sweetheart. I am death
> incarnate, and the last living thing that you are ever going to see.
> God sent me.">>

This is one of my favorites, especially for darker/moodier days.  For
lighter days or when I need a good laugh, my favorite is the Ivanova
dance!  "...tell me about your portfolio, lie to me about your family....:

Colleen
(who loves the Centari coats with all the metallic braid!)

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Babylon 5
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On Thu, 23 Feb 2006, Catherine Kinsey wrote:

> Costume content:  besides the great characters and storyline, I've
> always thought this show was one of the better examples for using
> costuming to define characters, especially the different alien races.

Someone certainly had a lot of fun developing the style for the Centauri!
Lots of Renaissance elements in that.

But I frankly think the Narn are the most ambitious. The clothes look like
nothing at first glance, but there are many subtle details. I'm not even
sure what color they are -- they're all combinations and textures.

--Robin

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Quoting Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu>:

> Belatedly sharing the reason I could pull that quote from, hrmmmp, 'thin
> air' :);
> http://www.cs.tut.fi/~albert/Quotes/B5-quotes.html

My kid (almost 18) cut his teeth on that show.  He has them all
memorized -- especially Zathrus, Garibaldi, and some of Susan Ivanova's
quotes.

>
> Susan; it's fun to cruise for stress relief :).
>
> Costume content:  besides the great characters and storyline, I've
> always thought this show was one of the better examples for using
> costuming to define characters, especially the different alien races.

Oh, yeah.  That was phenomenal.  And it showed the "personality" (if you
will) of the different races.  IMHO a phenomenal aspect of a phenomenal
show.  Somebody needs to run it again .....

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Quoting Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>:

>
> On Thu, 23 Feb 2006, Catherine Kinsey wrote:
>
>> Costume content:  besides the great characters and storyline, I've
>> always thought this show was one of the better examples for using
>> costuming to define characters, especially the different alien races.
>
> Someone certainly had a lot of fun developing the style for the Centauri!
> Lots of Renaissance elements in that.
>
> But I frankly think the Narn are the most ambitious. The clothes look like
> nothing at first glance, but there are many subtle details. I'm not even
> sure what color they are -- they're all combinations and textures.
>

It's like chameleon skin.  You know that there are clothes there, but
you're not always sure where the clothes stop and the skin starts.  My
friend Joe gave me a bust of G'kar that stands as my PCR totem.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 14:49:51 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men's shoes 1800-1810 question
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In a message dated 2/23/2006 10:26:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Flat  pumps, very like ladies' shoes of the same period.



Ditto--definitely NOT boots--they were not proper for the "drawing room"  nor 
for the ballroom.
 
My husband wears a loafer type shoe, but with the seam stitched inside,  like 
this.
_http://www.allenedmonds.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplayDetailView
?storeId=1&langId=-1&contractId=100&catalogId=40000000001&parent_category_rn=1
83&categoryId=190&productId=6370000&imageType=1&occasion=190_ 
(http://www.allenedmonds.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplayDetailView?storeId=1&langI
d=-1&contractId=100&catalogId=40000000001&parent_category_rn=183&categoryId=19
0&productId=6370000&imageType=1&occasion=190) 
  Regular formal pumps don't seem to come wide enough to fit  him.  But if 
you can find them, they would be best.  
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictures of my husbands 19th century costume
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In a message dated 2/23/2006 10:39:42 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl writes:

http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19man/Men19th/Men19th.html




It looks very good.  
 
The hat is yours, so he can wear it if he wants to, but I would discourage  
wearing a real artifact.  You can find very good reproductions of that  style 
of hat and they aren't too expensive.
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 09:37:43 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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Dawn wrote:

> You might also get him in touch with another SCA guy, so he can talk 
> to someone who is enthusiastic about (or at least comfortable with ) 
> the clothing. I've known a lot of guys afraid of looking silly, until 
> the peer pressure convinced them that baby blue velvet pants with a 
> satin lining and lace cuffs were cool.


Occasionally, I think men need to be shown a short video of women's 
reactions to their clothes and presentation.  Guys, we don't even notice 
you in your dark blue tunic with the dark red facing and black 
trousers.  The video would undoubtely show us gushing "Ooo, Terese, look 
at that guy in the PINK!".


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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From: "Wilson, Annette" <Annette.Wilson@deh.gov.au>
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I find one of the major selling points for late sixteenth century
venetians is pockets. "Modern" men always want to carry "stuff" in their
pockets, ranging from car-keys to wallets and folding knives.
Although the venetians (with a pocket set into the side) in Patterns of
Fashion 1 are dated after 1600, I have no problem putting pockets in
those based on pre-1600 portraits, and I have found it is more
economical of fabric to cut venetians with side seams anyway.

Annette Wilson

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Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 16:30:47 -0600
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Babylon 5
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With the Centauri the elements seemed more baroque and rococo that flowed
into a Napoleonic style towards the end. I would say that the Centauri
cultural look was French based. I like B5 over Star Trek with costume
representation of alien race is that though both show a style, B5 had
wonderful variations of that style, so that you didn't have clones walking
in the background. So that to me it made the story much more believable.
De

-----Original Message-----
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006, Catherine Kinsey wrote:

> Costume content:  besides the great characters and storyline, I've
> always thought this show was one of the better examples for using
> costuming to define characters, especially the different alien races.

Someone certainly had a lot of fun developing the style for the Centauri!
Lots of Renaissance elements in that.

But I frankly think the Narn are the most ambitious. The clothes look like
nothing at first glance, but there are many subtle details. I'm not even
sure what color they are -- they're all combinations and textures.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Natural Protein Fiber
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Welp, I heard back from Thai Silks about the natural protein fiber--I'm 
actually disappointed.  It's NOT the soy stuff!
Here's their response:

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "thai silks" <silks@thaisilks.com>
> It is produced from a rougher less continuously filamented part of the 
> cocoon--sort of sandwiched in between the outer husk and the inside 
> continuous filament. It is all silk.
> Jeanne

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Status: RO

I have made the corset and it fits really nice.
The straps in the pattern are placed wrong they go over the schoulder as 
a modern bra but they have to go more to the point of the schoulder.
But I am only a small cub C.
Make it at least one size smaller than what the pattern suggest.
Here you can see pictures of a corset made of this pattern.
http://mystictimes.nl/Verkoop/Verkoop.html
There is a corset in Corsets and crinolines wich looks a lot like the 
Butterick corset.

Greetings,
       Deredere


They

tearoses@aol.com wrote:

>Hi folks!
> 
>I'm about to embark on my first post-elizabethan corset. I'd prefer to draft it myself, but since I don't have time for that, I'm making it from the Butterick pattern, which I believe is a mid-18th century corset. (http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4254=x&TI='corset'&page=1) But I have a few questions. Last night I measured all the pieces and found that there is only about an inch difference between the bustline and the waist. Is this correct? I thought the silhouette for that period was supposed to be conical. Given my own measurements, cylindrical doesn't sound at all comfortable for me. 
> 
>I know that in Elizabethan corsetry, one takes two inches off for the "squish" factor, but the manufacturers have four to five inches of "squish," according to their sizing chart. This could be accounted for if the corset, which has front and back lacing, were to be left open two inches at each closure, but the pattern, of course, doesn't have instructions for wearing the corset, just making it. And the pictures suggest it should be laced completely closed. 
> 
>Finally, I bought some linen to make the corset out of, but the weave doesn't seem sturdy enough to hold the cable ties in, so I bought some cotton duck to line and interline it. Should I sew the boning channels through all three layers, or sew through the lining only and cover the outside with the linen? 
> 
>Maybe I shouldn't put so much effort into a corset for a pirate costume, but I've always wanted a colonial dress, so if I had the underpinnings for one, I'd have an excuse to make it, right? :)
> 
>Tea Rose
> 
> 
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>

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Hi. Since I am one of those folks firing off cannon at SCA events, 
perhaps I can help. First, before even discussing styles, let me say 
that I would not only recommend, but practically insist, that everything 
worn be of a natural material. I don't wear potential napalm on my body 
and don't suggest it for anyone else. Wool, even in the summer, has 
protected me from burns and ignition on many occasions. This said, the 
later the historical period, the closer to modern clothing, and the more 
likely your hubby will be willing to wear it. I would recommend late 
Elizabethan, with a shirt, breeches a doublet (sleeveless, if need be 
for comfort), and a coat or cassock. The broad-brimmed hat (pretty 
ubiquitous around the SCA) could round out the look. Breeches don't have 
to be pumpkin pants, venetians or nautical wide legged breeches can 
work. If your hubby has thick calves, rather than trying to find cotton 
knit hose (improper for the period anyway), just make cuthose of linen 
following directions for 15th C hose but only making the part from a 
little above the knee down. Use a garter at the knee and you are set. 
Sleeveless doublet can be of leather, slashed or pinked, and that will 
protect from burns too. Some of the 16th C men's stuff looks pretty 
butch, avoiding the  *ugh, that looks girly* effect. Good Luck, Mike T.  
PS you can try clothing up to about 1650,  99% of the folks in the SCA 
don't know the difference anyway...


>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Men's shoes 1800-1810 question
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>From: AnnBWass@aol.com
>By the way, I want to make this clear--I know this isn't an absolutely
>authentic shoe for the period, but one that is readily available and not as
>expensive as custom made.  We DID go with custom-made boots for him which  
>were
>outrageously expensive but are so comfortable that he wears them whenever  
>he can
>(but, alas! not in the ballroom).

You can still find formal men's pumps today.  You might try your local 
tuxedo supply places.

Marc


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Message-ID: <00ab01c638e9$2aeeb420$0401010a@michaela>
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<004801c638cf$0629b460$2cf0f4dc@user4712b7d135>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Martha to Mia - I needed that!
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 15:22:31 +1300
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<< but I'm hopeless at drafting (partly because I have trouble getting
somebody to do accurate measurements  for me) or enlarging patterns>>

Sigh unfortunately I had to learn to draft because I am a really odd shape,
even taking into account the fact that commercial patterns are based on an
ideal standard.

I'm a size 14 in commercial patterns, my main measurements are pretty close
(hips waist, bust) but most of my bust measurement is from my ribcage. It
makes for a very tricky fit even for professional seamstresses. Been there,
realised I know my own body best had a very steep learning curve in pattern
drafting;)

Good commercial patterns though I *love* because it helps those who cannot
draft or drape, and it's all about being able to look at the pretties;). I
have to keep reminding myself that the mathematical aspect of sewing isn't
as easy for everyone. Just as I don't do embroidery and others can whip
through that aspect with amazing results;)

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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On Thursday 23 February 2006 9:56 am, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
[snip]

> Remember, leather and boots greatly "butch up" an outfit....but are
> expensive.
>

I say:  if he wants "butch", make him pay for his leather and boots 
himself.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Almost OT, Chaucer
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Geoffrey Chaucer hath a blog. Really:
http://houseoffame.blogs.friendster.com/my_blog/

Only a handful of posts, but in September he wrote about costume:

<<
for a while ther I wolde breke a swete bifor I had ypassed St. Katherines
chirche
now I kanne weare mine woolen hosen, and mine little hatte
>>

--Robin
tongue thrust firmly through left cheek

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Natural Protein Fiber
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I got a catalog today and it has soy fibers in it. Do you want the title or 
where to find the stuff?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 7:54 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Natural Protein Fiber


> Welp, I heard back from Thai Silks about the natural protein fiber--I'm 
> actually disappointed.  It's NOT the soy stuff!
> Here's their response:
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "thai silks" <silks@thaisilks.com>
>> It is produced from a rougher less continuously filamented part of the 
>> cocoon--sort of sandwiched in between the outer husk and the inside 
>> continuous filament. It is all silk.
>> Jeanne
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 21:54:31 -0500
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On Thursday 23 February 2006 3:37 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Dawn wrote:
> > You might also get him in touch with another SCA guy, so he can talk
> > to someone who is enthusiastic about (or at least comfortable with )
> > the clothing. I've known a lot of guys afraid of looking silly, until
> > the peer pressure convinced them that baby blue velvet pants with a
> > satin lining and lace cuffs were cool.
>
> Occasionally, I think men need to be shown a short video of women's
> reactions to their clothes and presentation.  Guys, we don't even notice
> you in your dark blue tunic with the dark red facing and black
> trousers.  The video would undoubtely show us gushing "Ooo, Terese, look
> at that guy in the PINK!".

And color's not the only issue.

I have a personal anecdote to relate on the issue of tights (okay, 
waist-length hose) on men.  

In September my husband and I were in a LARP set in the early Italian 
Renaissance.  It was a body-conscious era, but Eric didn't want to mess with 
hose with points, and I'm no tailor (so I wasn't about to try to make him a 
period farsetto, either with the Medieval Miscellanea pattern or from 
scratch.)

 He was willing to wear modern tights with a doublet.  I had a black, vaguely 
late Elizabethan Chivalry Sports doublet I'd purchased for him several years 
ago (also for a LARP).  So he wore that, and I bought him a suitable hat and 
made him a knee length cioppa, black and silver brocade, with red satin 
lining, to wear over it all.

I was a bit concerned about how well it would all look, but not from an 
authenticity perspective. (It turned out that the GMs for the game knew 
*nothing* of period costume, so that despite all my compromises Eric was one 
of the most authentically dressed people in the game.)  No, my concern was 
that Eric's acquired quite a bit of a gut over the past few years--too much 
traveling and eating crappy airline/hotel food. I was a bit worried that he'd 
look like a dodo bird or something in doublet and hose.

To my surprise, he looked *marvelous*, even without the cioppa.  The doublet 
still fit, and minimized his gut, and his legs and butt are quite nice if I 
must say so myself.  With the hat and the cioppa, he really looked the part 
of the Duke of Milan (which he was playing).  I'm kicking myself for not 
having taken pictures. (Of course, we still have the costume, but the game 
turned sour for Eric, so I don't want to remind him of it too soon by making 
him wear the costume again just for a photo shoot.)

Things like this are a useful reminder that our forebears weren't idiots, and 
that clothing that looks so odd when you first encounter pictures of it in 
books really is flattering when you fit it on real people.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ] Re: Flour Sack Fabric
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the flour sack towels available at walmart, etc are actually just basic 
muslin.   if you ask for cotton muslin at the fabric area you will have 
a similar stuff.

The osnaburg I was given when I asked for it one place was a light 
weight twill, which I love for pillows, but I've heard on other lists 
that osnaburg is a heavy weight coarse muslin or plain weave fabric but 
between muslin and burlap in weight and coarseness.  FWIW, Kitty

otsisto wrote:
> The osnaberg is stiff because of the sizing in the material. It loosens and
> soften up after you wash it.
> I do not think that osnaberg is equivalent to flour sack material but this
> is isn't based on anything solid.
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Sylvia,
> I was looking at Osnaberg at the store and it seemed too stiff; I'll have to
> look again and take a towel along with me for comparison.
> Thanks,
> Wendi
> Sylvia wrote:
> I thought it was osnaburg (osnaberg?)
> 
> Sylrog
> 
> On Aug 1, 2005, at 10:42 AM, <wendirae@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>>Hello,
>>I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to buy flour sack
>>fabric by the yard. I was introduced to the towels by my mother-in-law
>>and would love to use this fabric for other items but I'm having a
>>hard time finding it. Does it go by another name? Any help would be
>>greatly appreciated.
>>
>>TIA,
>>Wendi

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10602232107080.29499-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Almost OT, Chaucer
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 20:16:54 -0700
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Thanks for forwarding this.  I laughed so loud that the cats came over to
see what was wrong....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 8:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Almost OT, Chaucer


>
> Geoffrey Chaucer hath a blog. Really:
> http://houseoffame.blogs.friendster.com/my_blog/
>
> Only a handful of posts, but in September he wrote about costume:
>
> <<
> for a while ther I wolde breke a swete bifor I had ypassed St. Katherines
> chirche
> now I kanne weare mine woolen hosen, and mine little hatte
> >>
>
> --Robin
> tongue thrust firmly through left cheek


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In a message dated 2/23/2006 7:55:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
formfunc@formfunction.org writes:

It is  produced from a rougher less continuously filamented part of the 
>  cocoon--sort of sandwiched in between the outer husk and the inside 
>  continuous filament. It is all silk.



I was wondering if it might be another type of silk--I think it would be a  
misnomer to call the soy fiber "natural" protein fiber.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Martha to Mia - I needed that!
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In a message dated 2/23/2006 8:41:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ewalpole@tpg.com.au writes:

(you  wouldn't consider following 18th century 
with 16th century would  you?


I believe Martha prefers to work from as many original garments as she can  
get her hands on.  Alas, there are precious few extant 16th century  garments 
available for study and are there any at all in the U.S.?
 
I want her to do English Regency/Federal myself, but doubt if the market is  
there.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Men's shoes 1800-1810 question
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In a message dated 2/23/2006 8:48:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
marccarlson20@hotmail.com writes:

You can  still find formal men's pumps today.  You might try your local 
tuxedo  supply places.



Not in the wide widths, that I have found, and my husband has WIDE  feet!  
However, for those with a medium width foot, certainly tuxedo pumps  can be 
found.  Sometimes you can even find them in the discount type shoe  stores.
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Babylon 5
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 19:43:30 -0800
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I got to see one of the G'Kar costumes at the Seattle Science Fiction Museum
last weekend.  The costume is almost all created out of hot glue and bits
and pieces.  I was so bummed to hear that Andreas Katsulas passed away from
inoperable lung cancer on 13 February.
"loved smoking with a passion that cannot be described", was diagnosed with
inoperable lung cancer; he passed away a year later, in Los Angeles,
California. He was 59. He is survived by his wife and two children. The day
after his death, his Babylon 5 co-star Jerry Doyle devoted much of his daily
radio talk show to Katsulas, sharing stories of their days working together
on Babylon 5.

Regina

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Robin Netherton
> Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 12:03 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Babylon 5
>
>
>
> On Thu, 23 Feb 2006, Catherine Kinsey wrote:
>
> > Costume content:  besides the great characters and storyline, I've
> > always thought this show was one of the better examples for using
> > costuming to define characters, especially the different alien races.
>
> Someone certainly had a lot of fun developing the style for the Centauri!
> Lots of Renaissance elements in that.
>
> But I frankly think the Narn are the most ambitious. The clothes look like
> nothing at first glance, but there are many subtle details. I'm not even
> sure what color they are -- they're all combinations and textures.
>
> --Robin
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric
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Another thing snug fitting sleepwear can do is prevent so much oxygen 
from getting to the flame.    A flame which is trying to light a snug 
fitting pyjama might not catch so easily nor burn so well.

Joannah Hansen wrote:
> The thing about 'snug-fitting' sleepwear for children has the rationale that the problem with traditional 'loose' nightgowns or PJs was that their excess fabric was much more likely to fall into the flame from a fire, or onto the heating element of those old bar heaters, than PJs with knit bands at the wrists and ankles, or nightgowns that were pretty much just a close fitting tube with sleeves.
> 
> Many years ago ( 1985-86-ish ) there was a poster up on the wall of the Red-Cross Tea Room under the Brisbane City Hall ( it had a cloakroom where you could leave luggage while going about whatever business you had in town, toilets, shower, and mothers' room ) which had simple but effective illustrations of the 'good' styles, the 'bad' styles, and *why* the 'bad' styles where dangerous. ( I think there was a reasonably graphic depiction of small girl with her nightgown catching on fire from the skirt falling into a heater. ) It also recommended using sleepwear made from fire-retardant fabrics.
> 
> In Australia, I think it has become less of an issue - at least, I haven't seen the topic addressed in sundry parent-child-oriented publications - as that particular style of heater was withdrawn from the market as being too dangerous, it was around that time that fan heaters and oil-filled heaters became the only types which you could buy. I also suspect that the majority of childrens sleepwear available in the shops is in the recommended styles, but I could be wrong about that, not having had to buy kiddies sleepwear. ( No kids yet! ;-) )
> 
> My 2 cents.
> 
> Joannah.   
> 
> --- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> 
> From: AnnBWass@aol.com
> Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 18:17:59 EDT
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric
> 
>  
> In a message dated 6/21/2005 4:55:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> kimiko@kimiko1.com writes:
> 
> I have  several ready-made cotton children's pjs, and they are not flame 
> retardant  (and are so marked). 
> 
> 
> yes, I've noticed in reading labels on ready-made sleepwear that evidently  
> the legislation was changed to allow knit cotton fabrics for children's  
> sleepwear, as long as they are "snug fitting."  Don't know if that was a  result of 
> pressure from manufacturers, or consumers, or something else--I've  been out 
> of touch with all those issues for about 10 years now.
>  
> Ann Wass
> _______________

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Quoting Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com>:

> I got to see one of the G'Kar costumes at the Seattle Science Fiction Museum
> last weekend.  The costume is almost all created out of hot glue and bits
> and pieces.  I was so bummed to hear that Andreas Katsulas passed away from
> inoperable lung cancer on 13 February.

Oh, man; I *hate* that.  Small cell lung cancer is a truely ugly
disease.  The *two* year survival rate is *20%*

Susan, whose beloved Mother-in-law lived 13 months with small cell.
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictures of my husbands 19th century costume
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 22:57:53 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Looks GREAT!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 23, 2006, at 10:36 AM, Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> Finally I have pictures!
> Doesn't he look handsome :-) .
>
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19man/Men19th/Men19th.html
>
> The hat he is wearing is an original from 1850 at least that is wat 
> toled to me.
> It is my fhirst 19th century men's costume and I think I can do better 
> but I am happy it is finished.
>
> Greetings,
>       Deredere
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Martha to Mia - I needed that!
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 5:33 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Martha to Mia - I needed that!


> I'm waiting for these patterns too! My main area of interest is 
> Elizabethan, but I've always wanted an 18th century outfit, so a 
> commercial pattern would be wonderful. And the companion piece sounds 
> great too!
>
> Tea Rose
>
<snip>
Me too! I primarily do Tudor (you wouldn't consider following 18th century 
with 16th century would you? there might be a big enough market in the Ren 
faires and SCA) but I'm rather a timeperiod magpie (ooh look pretty dresses) 
so I jump periods when I get the opportunity but I'm hopeless at drafting 
(partly because I have trouble getting somebody to do accurate measurements 
for me) or enlarging patterns (my attempt at enlarging a pattern from 
'Patterns of Fashion 1'  ended up with shoulders designed for a 
weightlifter) so commercial patterns are a wonderful thing to my mind, and 
something I can pick up from my local fabric shop for $7-8 if they are on 
special is something I can afford compared to buying small company patterns 
which are 2-3 times the price plus international postage. Keep up the 
wonderful work and I hope to see something wonderful in the pattern 
catalogues soon.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men's shoes 1800-1810 question
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By the way, I want to make this clear--I know this isn't an absolutely  
authentic shoe for the period, but one that is readily available and not as  
expensive as custom made.  We DID go with custom-made boots for him which  were 
outrageously expensive but are so comfortable that he wears them whenever  he can 
(but, alas! not in the ballroom).
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 09:30:44 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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Kate M Bunting wrote:

>Yes, I would have suggested that, but I thought the SCA stopped at 1600? He could wear doublet and breeches (no codpiece) with a plain falling band - no need for lace or ribbons if he doesn't want them.
>
Yes, it does.  But that would still allow him exactly what you suggest-- 
fairly plain 'Venetian' breeches, doublet, falling band with little or 
no lace. etc., and he'd only need knee-length hose. 


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 22:04:24 -0600
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Martha to Mia - I needed that!
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Quoting Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>:


> <snip>
> Me too! I primarily do Tudor (you wouldn't consider following 18th 
> century with 16th century would you? there might be a big enough 
> market in the Ren faires and SCA) but I'm rather a timeperiod magpie 
> (ooh look pretty dresses) so I jump periods when I get the opportunity

OOoh, Italian!  :-)

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Babylon 5
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 20:13:44 -0800
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>
> Oh, man; I *hate* that.  Small cell lung cancer is a truly ugly
> disease.  The *two* year survival rate is *20%*
>
> Susan, whose beloved Mother-in-law lived 13 months with small cell.
> -----
My father passed away after fighting emphysema for about 7 years.  It was a
mercy because he was bright and alert right up until the end.  He just was
slowly drowning because of 45-50 years of smoking.  Every time I see someone
light up I want to beat them!  It's not that the death is so bad - it's the
dying.  Way too often it is long and agonizing for everyone involved!

Wanda


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Status: RO

While my S.O. was wearing knee length t-tunics before I ever met him, he won't wear hose on a bet.  However, weight gain plus an unwillingness to buy new clothes made me realize that, as long as his footwear covers the ankle, sweatpants in a size or two too small make a good substitute.  They definitely look better than modern dance tights and most sweat pants stretch enough that they're not uncomfortable.  Of course, the shopper has to be vigilant to avoid stripes and logos and strange looking fabrics but a man won't see anything unusual about wearing sweatpants, even if they do cling to legs and butt.

Janet
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I believe Martha prefers to work from as many original garments as she can
get her hands on.  Alas, there are precious few extant 16th century
garments
available for study and are there any at all in the U.S.? - Ann Wass

So send me to England - to Europe - to Kyoto!!! Have tape measure, will
travel.
Martha



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Quoting Martha Kelly <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>:

>>
>> I believe Martha prefers to work from as many original garments as she can
>> get her hands on.  Alas, there are precious few extant 16th century
>> garments
>> available for study and are there any at all in the U.S.? - Ann Wass
>
> So send me to England - to Europe - to Kyoto!!! Have tape measure, will
> travel.

and you'll need somebody to tote and fetch for you won't you!

:-D

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 21:17:20 -0800
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> Occasionally, I think men need to be shown a short video of women's 
> reactions to their clothes and presentation.  Guys, we don't even notice 
> you in your dark blue tunic with the dark red facing and black trousers. 
> The video would undoubtely show us gushing "Ooo, Terese, look at that guy 
> in the PINK!".
>
>
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres

I remember the first time I put my very reluctant usually 
12th-century-tunic-wearing husband into full Cavalier.  Full pleated knee 
britches, high waisted doublet, lace collar and cuff and tights.  He did it 
because he loves me and that way he and I would match, but I could tell he 
was a bit apprehensive.  Then, we went to the event and did he ever get 
compliments from the ladies.  Women who had never given him a second glance 
were practically fighting to be the one to tell him how good he looked. 
He's now on his third suit and is constantly looking for lace and trims to 
be used on his costumes.

Melusine 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redwork
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At 08:21 AM 2/23/2006, you wrote:
>Out of curiosity and basically ignorance on this style of embroidery, what 
>is the earliest documentable date redwork was used on garments?  It is 
>stunning!
>
>   Thanks to everyone for bringing this to the list.
>
>   Carletta


I am no expert on this field, but my understanding is that this is an 
example of Blackwork style of embroidery, only done in a monochrome red 
thread instead of black.

And I intend on making those sleeves, and maybe the matching partlet as 
well. I just have other projects to do first, so those are in my "someday" box.

Kimiko


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Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 13:09:19 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] silk/'natural protein'
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At 11:46 AM 2/22/2006, you wrote:
>Is there anything that they cannot use soybeans for?
>
>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


John Marshall, a North of the SF Bay area artist who creates Japanese 
garments and paints them (such a crude word for his artistry) uses soybeans 
for fixing the dyes. He basically creates his work, then uses a soy mixture 
to coat the material, presses the garments, then allows the garment to hang 
for many months to cure the work. He learned this technique from his 
Japanese master. He claims that the soy chemically bonds with the silk 
fabrics and pigments, and strengthens the silk so it will last over a 
hundred years, vs an approximate lifespan of 50 years. He's got a brochure 
on this that I own, and claims that soy is a wonder plant. His brochure is 
called "Salvation through Soy! Blissful Dyeing for All Eternity, the 
Secrets Revealed with John Marshall as your guide." He's got a great sense 
of humor as well.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)

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Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 22:23:49 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Babylon 5
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At 11:19 AM 2/23/2006, you wrote:
>Belatedly sharing the reason I could pull that quote from, hrmmmp, 'thin
>air' ;
>http://www.cs.tut.fi/~albert/Quotes/B5-quotes.html
>
>Susan; it's fun to cruise for stress relief .
>
>Costume content:  besides the great characters and storyline, I've
>always thought this show was one of the better examples for using
>costuming to define characters, especially the different alien races.
>
>Catherine


Oh, thank you. My husband and I love B5, have all the DVDs, and my husband 
often quotes from it. The following is my favorite quote

"I'll wake you in four hours."
"Thanks. That's assuming I can get any sleep in these. The Captain warned 
me about these things, but I had no idea.."
"They are wery restful, good for the back."
"Well, someday I want to be stationed in somewhere with big four-poster 
bed, canopy, and maybe a window with a view of a garden."
"I like gardens, .. and big four-poster beds. .. Right. See you in four 
hours."

         -- Marcus and Ivanova in Babylon 5:"Shadow Dancing"

Costume Content: My husband would love to have Marcus' Ranger outfit, and 
someday I hope to make it for him... when I can find the right kind of silk 
for the robe.

I am sorry that Andreas Katsulas passed on. My husband heard about it on a 
blog, but I never saw it in the papers or in the news (I may have missed 
it). May he rest in peace. Andreas will always be remembered by his many 
fans as the one and only G'Kar.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)

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From: "Kat Russell" <kat@redtrollforge.com>
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Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 23:01:26 -0800
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> I am sorry that Andreas Katsulas passed on. My husband heard about it
> on a blog, but I never saw it in the papers or in the news (I may have
> missed it). May he rest in peace. Andreas will always be remembered by
> his many fans as the one and only G'Kar.

Scifi news had this (as well as info about his life and various 
roles, including that of G'Kar):Babylon 5's Katsulas Dies

Andreas Katsulas, the character actor known to SF fans as G'Kar on 
Babylon 5 and a familiar face from Star Trek and other SF&F TV shows, 
died Feb. 13 of lung cancer in Los Angeles, his agent, Donna 
Massetti, confirmed to SCI FI Wire. He was 59. 

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 03:11:28 -0600
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"In every man there is a peacock waiting to be coaxed out with the right
ensemble"

A quote I had heard once.
De
-----Original Message-----
I remember the first time I put my very reluctant usually
12th-century-tunic-wearing husband into full Cavalier.  Full pleated knee
britches, high waisted doublet, lace collar and cuff and tights.  He did it
because he loves me and that way he and I would match, but I could tell he
was a bit apprehensive.  Then, we went to the event and did he ever get
compliments from the ladies.  Women who had never given him a second glance
were practically fighting to be the one to tell him how good he looked.
He's now on his third suit and is constantly looking for lace and trims to
be used on his costumes.

Melusine


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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In a message dated 2/24/2006 4:12:49 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

"In  every man there is a peacock waiting to be coaxed out with the  right
ensemble"



While it makes me cringe, my husband says that he is my Ken doll.  I  never 
had one growing up, but I never wanted one, either.  I thought men's  clothes 
were BOOOOORING.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictures of my husbands 19th century costume
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Unfortionally original hats are much cheaper than new hats.
If we want a new hat it will kost us at least tree times as much and we
can't afford that.
They only cheaper hats I could find were felt one size fits none hats.
He wil wear it probably once a year. And I think more people can endjoy
the hat while he is wearing it with his costume than when we have it at
home in a box.

Greetings,
       Deredere

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> 
>In a message dated 2/23/2006 10:39:42 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
>Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl writes:
>
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19man/Men19th/Men19th.html
>
>
>
>
>It looks very good.  
> 
>The hat is yours, so he can wear it if he wants to, but I would discourage  
>wearing a real artifact.  You can find very good reproductions of that  style 
>of hat and they aren't too expensive.
> 
>Ann Wass
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>


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References: <200602231627.k1NGRApd018566@net.indra.com><8C806BEBEAC3C0C-1178-5FC@FWM-M12.sysops.aol.com><004801c638cf$0629b460$2cf0f4dc@user4712b7d135>
	<00ab01c638e9$2aeeb420$0401010a@michaela>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Martha to Mia - I needed that!
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 08:07:45 -0500
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 9:22 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Martha to Mia - I needed that!


>
> I'm a size 14 in commercial patterns, my main measurements are pretty 
> close
> (hips waist, bust) but most of my bust measurement is from my ribcage. It
> makes for a very tricky fit even for professional seamstresses. Been 
> there,
> realised I know my own body best had a very steep learning curve in 
> pattern
> drafting;)

It IS a PITA, isn't it? I'm glad to hear of someone else with the same 
issues.

I have a big ribcage, broad shoulders, chunky arms, short legs, and a flat 
butt. Getting things to fit is a nightmare!

Dianne

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Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 13:48:53 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!
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I have just received the most wonderful book from Amazon. "18th 
Century Embroidery Techniques" by Gail Marsh, (ISBN 1 86108 476 5) 
and am drooling as I type.

The pictures are clear, and there are diagrams. It includes silk 
embroidery, metal thread and spangles, whitework, quilting, tambour 
and chain, crewel and novelty threads,Hollie Point and knotting!!

I know there will be other list members interested.

I'm back to my cup of tea and the book.

Suzi


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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 08:03:29 -0600
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Babylon 5
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I got to see one of the G'Kar costumes at the Seattle Science Fiction
Museum
last weekend.  The costume is almost all created out of hot glue and
bits
and pieces.  I was so bummed to hear that Andreas Katsulas passed away
from
inoperable lung cancer on 13 February.
"loved smoking with a passion that cannot be described", was diagnosed
with
inoperable lung cancer; he passed away a year later, in Los Angeles,
California. He was 59. He is survived by his wife and two children. The
day
after his death, his Babylon 5 co-star Jerry Doyle devoted much of his
daily
radio talk show to Katsulas, sharing stories of their days working
together
on Babylon 5.

Regina
===============================
Reminds me of when a friend got an upclose look at some of the BBC
costumes and props for either Six Wives or Elizabeth R.  She said there
was a lot of gold painted hot glue!  I guess the 10-foot rule applys to
tv cameras as well as the stage :).  Can't push the envelope quite that
far at faire darn it.  The Narn costumes were an amazing blend of
fabrics, loved the Minbari robes too.

I saw that we had lost Andreas last week, hits home right now as my
father just had surgery for lung cancer (caught unbelievable early,
excellent prognosis).  There will never be another G'Kar.  

Catherine

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!
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Oooooh! I can't wait to see it:)

Anne

P.S. I do have both of Jean's lady's books:)



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actually, Simplicity may be really gald they have you, Martha.  Read that SHOULD BE GLAD.
   
  Down here in North Carolina it seems to be the home sewing market is really dried up in the past 10 or so years.  Nobody is sewing for children, Nobody is really doing sewing for themselves,   There are really no fabric stores in a 100 mile radius of Charlotte beyond, Mary Jos and Hancock's, and mostly they have home deck and quilting fabric, not much in the way of people type fabric.  The nearest  JoAnns in 90+ miles away. There are several stores at cater to the quilting segment, and one small one that sell Upmarket/Highend fabrics.  A this is an introduction to  Major Patter Companies can't be selling a huge amount of home sewing patterns.  Right now, all I can think of who are doing sewing are the reenactment/costume folks like us.  And these are people who will go ANYWHERE,  Look at everything, Buy patterns that they don't really need but collect anyway, Have projects in the planning stage for a long time.
   
  It would be interesting to know how well the patterns do in comparison to other costume patterns and general run of the mill patterns vs. home dec stuff.  
   
  18c Mia in Charlotte NC, remembering the glory days of being near Baltimore MD and Washington DC.  Remembering  G Street Fabrics when it actually was on G Street DC
   
   

		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!
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Suzi Clarke wrote:
> 
> I have just received the most wonderful book from Amazon. "18th Century 
> Embroidery Techniques" by Gail Marsh, (ISBN 1 86108 476 5) and am 
> drooling as I type.
> 

Suzi, after you've had a look at it, could you tell us how much of the 
book is devoted to early 18th century work, or if it is all examples 
from the latter half of the century?



Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] 
 Tambour hook/ was A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century
 embroiderers!!
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Now I have had time to look at this beautiful book, I want to try 
tambour embroidery. (Not beading.) Does anyone have a source for the 
hooks? I have the handle part somewhere, but a source for that would 
probably be good too.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!
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After reading your post I went to Amazon and typed in the title.  I got a bunch of stuff but nothing on embroidery.  Then I tried Gail Marsh and got more stuff but nothing on embroidery.  How did you find the book?  It sounds wonderful.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 13:48:53 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!


I have just received the most wonderful book from Amazon. "18th 
Century Embroidery Techniques" by Gail Marsh, (ISBN 1 86108 476 5) 
and am drooling as I type.

The pictures are clear, and there are diagrams. It includes silk 
embroidery, metal thread and spangles, whitework, quilting, tambour 
and chain, crewel and novelty threads,Hollie Point and knotting!!

I know there will be other list members interested.

I'm back to my cup of tea and the book.

Suzi


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Just to add to your observations.  It is cheaper to buy clothing at WalMart than it is to make it yourself.  When you have to pay ten bucks for a pattern and you can buy a blouse for eight dollars guess which most people will do.  At a place in time when so many people are so busy and "multi tasking" is the norm, too many people don't have the time (nor sadly, the ability) to sew.  

People new to SCA or Ren Faires or re-enacting are the exception.  They are not going to get their garb off the rack in a discount store and most of them are not accomplished at making up their own patterns.  People like Martha are a godsend to them because they can purchase a pattern that will pass inspection (to all but the really critical) and that they can understand.  It takes a bit of experience to deal with some of the period patterns or to work from a charted pattern on a book page. 

To cut this rambling short, I just want to add my "Bravo Martha" and hope that Simplicity has sense enough to know what a gem they have!  

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 07:28:38 -0800 (PST)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re:patterns

actually, Simplicity may be really gald they have you, Martha.  Read that SHOULD BE GLAD.
   
  Down here in North Carolina it seems to be the home sewing market is really dried up in the past 10 or so years.  Nobody is sewing for children, Nobody is really doing sewing for themselves,   There are really no fabric stores in a 100 mile radius of Charlotte beyond, Mary Jos and Hancock's, and mostly they have home deck and quilting fabric, not much in the way of people type fabric.  The nearest  JoAnns in 90+ miles away. There are several stores at cater to the quilting segment, and one small one that sell Upmarket/Highend fabrics.  A this is an introduction to  Major Patter Companies can't be selling a huge amount of home sewing patterns.  Right now, all I can think of who are doing sewing are the reenactment/costume folks like us.  And these are people who will go ANYWHERE,  Look at everything, Buy patterns that they don't really need but collect anyway, Have projects in the planning stage for a long time.
   
  It would be interesting to know how well the patterns do in comparison to other costume patterns and general run of the mill patterns vs. home dec stuff.  
   
  18c Mia in Charlotte NC, remembering the glory days of being near Baltimore MD and Washington DC.  Remembering  G Street Fabrics when it actually was on G Street DC
   
   

		
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Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 09:27:14 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!
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Status: RO

I, too, could not find it at Amazon.com (the USA site), but I did a 
web search and found it at two UK bookshops.  Here's one of 
them:  http://www.countrybookshop.co.uk/books/index.phtml?whatfor=1861084765

Looks like it is not officially published until Monday, Feb. 27, so 
that may be why it's not listed in the USA Amazon site.

Joan

At 09:04 AM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>After reading your post I went to Amazon and typed in the title.  I 
>got a bunch of stuff but nothing on embroidery.  Then I tried Gail 
>Marsh and got more stuff but nothing on embroidery.  How did you 
>find the book?  It sounds wonderful.
>
>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>
>--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>
>Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 13:48:53 +0000
>Subject: [h-cost] A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!
>
>I have just received the most wonderful book from Amazon. "18th
>Century Embroidery Techniques" by Gail Marsh, (ISBN 1 86108 476 5)
>and am drooling as I type.
>
>The pictures are clear, and there are diagrams. It includes silk
>embroidery, metal thread and spangles, whitework, quilting, tambour
>and chain, crewel and novelty threads,Hollie Point and knotting!!
>
>I know there will be other list members interested.
>
>I'm back to my cup of tea and the book.
>
>Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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In a message dated 2/24/2006 4:12:49 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

"In  every man there is a peacock waiting to be coaxed out with the  right
ensemble"



Following a lengthy discussion of what a woman will be able to get her  
husband to wear for SCA (Society for Creative  Anachronism).
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From: Carletta da Nicolosi <carletta_nicolosi@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redwork Question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks, Kimiko!  I rarely post to this list with a question, but this really did interest me.  The redwork does look like the same patterns as blackwork and I am with you, I gotta make those sleeves!  
   
  Carletta 

******************************

I am no expert on this field, but my understanding is that this is an 
example of Blackwork style of embroidery, only done in a monochrome red 
thread instead of black.

And I intend on making those sleeves, and maybe the matching partlet as 
well. I just have other projects to do first, so those are in my "someday" box.

Kimiko


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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns & ramblings
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Status: RO

As a comment on "moden sewing":
  if I can buy a finished garment at Wal-Mart for LESS than I can by the 
cheap fabric and notions at the same Wal-Mart, why should I learn to 
sew?

I agree about the re-enactment people.  Patterns and fabric-WOW!

I joined a Victorian Group that sews and "dresses up" historic sites 
and events by their presence.  We sewed early 1900s style outfits for 
the "100 Years of Golf in Morris County" exhibit.  In period attire, we 
visited the 5 County Golf Courses last summer, to advertise the 
Historical Society's exhibit.  We were on hand to present the awards to 
the Ladies Golf Winners of each tournament at the 5 sites. Certainly 
attracted a lot of attention in our long skirts and straw boaters.  We 
were asked the inevitable question:  "Can you actually golf in that 
outfit? " I don't golf.  Didn't stop me from making an outfit, though!

I also ride sidesaddle, so I must sew my historically-inspired pieces.  
Along the lines of the Golf Outfits:  Some of the other Ladies in my 
group saw how elegant the Sidesaddle Riding Habits were and said " I 
want to make a Riding Habit.  I don't want to ride a horse, you 
understand.  I just LOVE the habits!"

Like many of you, my body type doesn't fit the standard sizes anymore.  
I wear sweats at home. So ... period sewing is such fun for me.  I can 
"dress up" for serious and frivolous occasions, alike.

This group also makes Cage Comforters for shelter animals from our 
fabric scraps. (Do a google search for more info.)   We received a 
LARGE donation of fabric from a clothing company.  We have been able to 
donate over 300 "comforters" to the unfortunate critters, over the past 
12 months. Some of them even made their way to New Orleans for 
Katrina's animal victims.  Our sewing machines are well used!  We feel 
great about donating the Comforters, using our leftovers and, of 
course, buying more fabric and patterns!   We even make little toys for 
the shelter animal from our scraps.  Some of our members knit and/or 
crochet.  They make Comforters and toys from yarn.  Especially good for 
those "practice" pieces that don't quite work out well enough for 
Period Attire use.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 24, 2006, at 10:28 AM, Mia Dappert wrote:

> actually, Simplicity may be really gald they have you, Martha.  Read 
> that SHOULD BE GLAD.
>
>   Down here in North Carolina it seems to be the home sewing market is 
> really dried up in the past 10 or so years.  Nobody is sewing for 
> children, Nobody is really doing sewing for themselves,   There are 
> really no fabric stores in a 100 mile radius of Charlotte beyond, Mary 
> Jos and Hancock's, and mostly they have home deck and quilting fabric, 
> not much in the way of people type fabric.  The nearest  JoAnns in 90+ 
> miles away. There are several stores at cater to the quilting segment, 
> and one small one that sell Upmarket/Highend fabrics.  A this is an 
> introduction to  Major Patter Companies can't be selling a huge amount 
> of home sewing patterns.  Right now, all I can think of who are doing 
> sewing are the reenactment/costume folks like us.  And these are 
> people who will go ANYWHERE,  Look at everything, Buy patterns that 
> they don't really need but collect anyway, Have projects in the 
> planning stage for a long time.
>
>   It would be interesting to know how well the patterns do in 
> comparison to other costume patterns and general run of the mill 
> patterns vs. home dec stuff.
>
>   18c Mia in Charlotte NC, remembering the glory days of being near 
> Baltimore MD and Washington DC.  Remembering  G Street Fabrics when it 
> actually was on G Street DC
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>  What are the most popular cars? Find out at Yahoo! Autos
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Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 10:29:50 -0800 (PST)
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Babylon 5
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you for the quote resource Susan.
 
I need to work on my tailoring skills to do the Ivonava costume.  A Centauri or Narn costume would be fun also, but I enjoy her attitude. (BOOM!)
 
Angharad
No boom?"
"No boom."
"No boom today. Boom tomorrow. There's always a boom tomorrow. What? Look, somebody's got to have some damn perspective around here. Boom, sooner or later. BOOM!" 
 -- Garibaldi, Sinclair, and Ivanova in Babylon 5:"Grail"
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Susan Data-Samtak wrote:
> 
> I joined a Victorian Group that sews and "dresses up" historic sites and 
> events by their presence.  We sewed early 1900s style outfits for the 
> "100 Years of Golf in Morris County" exhibit.  In period attire, we 
> visited the 5 County Golf Courses last summer, to advertise the 
> Historical Society's exhibit.

Is there an exhibit catalog for that?  I might buy one for my 
mother-in-law.  She lives for golf.

> 
> I also ride sidesaddle, so I must sew my historically-inspired pieces.  
> Along the lines of the Golf Outfits:  Some of the other Ladies in my 
> group saw how elegant the Sidesaddle Riding Habits were and said " I 
> want to make a Riding Habit.  I don't want to ride a horse, you 
> understand.  I just LOVE the habits!"

Our books _The Voice of Fashion:  79 Turn-of-the-Century Patterns with 
Instructions and Fashion Plates_ and _The Edwardian Modiste:  85 
Authentic Patterns with Instructions, Fashion Plates, and Period Sewing 
Techniques_ include a great many patterns for 1900-1906 and 1905-1909, 
respectively, including patterns for golf and riding habits.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!
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At 17:27 24/02/2006, you wrote:
>I, too, could not find it at Amazon.com (the USA site), but I did a 
>web search and found it at two UK bookshops.  Here's one of 
>them:  http://www.countrybookshop.co.uk/books/index.phtml?whatfor=1861084765
>
>Looks like it is not officially published until Monday, Feb. 27, so 
>that may be why it's not listed in the USA Amazon site.


That's the book. I was browsing sewing related book on Amazon and it 
popped up, so I pre-ordered, and it turned up in the post this 
morning. I have only taught a corset class today - the rest of the 
time has been spent studying the book - well that's work ain't it?


>>After reading your post I went to Amazon and typed in the title.  I 
>>got a bunch of stuff but nothing on embroidery.  Then I tried Gail 
>>Marsh and got more stuff but nothing on embroidery.  How did you 
>>find the book?  It sounds wonderful.
>>
>>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>>
>>I have just received the most wonderful book from Amazon. "18th
>>Century Embroidery Techniques" by Gail Marsh, (ISBN 1 86108 476 5)
>>and am drooling as I type.
>>
>>The pictures are clear, and there are diagrams. It includes silk
>>embroidery, metal thread and spangles, whitework, quilting, tambour
>>and chain, crewel and novelty threads,Hollie Point and knotting!!


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Status: RO

*Laugh* that is too true.

Until we joined the SCA, my husand didn't really wear anything other than
plain black jeans and tshirts, black, grey and dark green sweaters, and
occasionally BDUs of various colors (mostly black, olive and olive camo).

I asked him where/when he wanted his persona, and he said he didn't really
care, he was in it for the fencing and the friends. I did research, decided
on 1530's Landsknecht, and showed him what I wanted him to wear. Uh-uh. No
way was he going to wear all that color, and poofyness. And a codpiece?!?!?!


That was three years ago. His wardrobe currently contains: yellow wool
slashed hosen with black puffs, red linen pants slashed to yellow, a blue
linen wams slashed to chocolate brown, a bright blue wool waffenrock with
red trim, a black hat with red ostrich feathers, a school bus yellow hat
with black rooster feathers, and I'm going to be making a new fencing wams
of weld yellow and cochineal pink.

He now wants to make peoples eyes bleed.

Of course, that's not really the same as being a peacock, but it's
interesting. :)

-Irmgart

On 2/24/06, AnnBWass@aol.com <AnnBWass@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 2/24/2006 4:12:49 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> otsisto@socket.net writes:
>
> "In  every man there is a peacock waiting to be coaxed out with the  right
> ensemble"
>
>
>
> Following a lengthy discussion of what a woman will be able to get her
> husband to wear for SCA (Society for Creative  Anachronism).
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!
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At 15:30 24/02/2006, you wrote:
>Suzi Clarke wrote:
>>I have just received the most wonderful book from Amazon. "18th 
>>Century Embroidery Techniques" by Gail Marsh, (ISBN 1 86108 476 5) 
>>and am drooling as I type.
>
>Suzi, after you've had a look at it, could you tell us how much of 
>the book is devoted to early 18th century work, or if it is all 
>examples from the latter half of the century?


At a very rough count there are 25+ examples of various techniques 
used on garments from 1700 to "mid 18th" and a few from 1750-70, and 
the rest are later. There is even knotting shown in use on an apron 
of c.1725!  (And diagrams of how to..)

All the examples are in museums and collections here in G.B. (in fact 
I think in England.)

Hope that helps.  (Oh and the more I look the more I want to do.)

Suzi


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He now wants to make peoples eyes bleed.

Of course, that's not really the same as being a peacock, but it's
interesting. :)

-Irmgart
=============================
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Status: RO

Our latest additions to our Library are data charts and graphs of the comparisons of the U.S. womenswear and menswear fashion industries from 1849-1925, http://www.costumegallery.com/1928/Economics/charts/menwomencomp.htm 
The first chart is the amount of menwear and womenswear clothing establishments that existed during the given times.  The second chart shows many people were employed in the men and women's industries.  Please don't confuse this with how many men or women that were working in the entire industries.  The accounting was recorded by how many people worked in the menswear industry, AND how many worked in the womenwear industry.  I will be adding several of these graphs and charts to add to our Library. 
I have temporarily placed this webpage in the free access area.  Next Friday, it will be moved to the subscription only area of the Library.  The graphs are large, so you might need to scroll sideways to view its entirety. I am sorry for the size being so large, but it was needed to include the data charts.  If you print this webpage, I suggest that you print in landscape setting and do a "print preview" first.

My source for this information is the book, Economics of Fashion.  The book is well written and thoroughly researched. This book is the first one I have seen goes into so much details about the business history of the industry.  In my daily Library newsletter, I am sending our subcribers excerpts of the chapter about the standardization of the fashion industry.  

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Tambour hook/ was A book for Bjarne, and other 18th
	century embroiderers!!
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Try Lacis: http://www.lacis.com/catalog/search.php.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Sent: Feb 24, 2006 11:32 AM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost]  Tambour hook/ was A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!
>
>
>Now I have had time to look at this beautiful book, I want to try 
>tambour embroidery. (Not beading.) Does anyone have a source for the 
>hooks? I have the handle part somewhere, but a source for that would 
>probably be good too.
>
>Suzi
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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What I'm interested in knowing, is how Simplicity chooses 
patterns--aside from market surveys, don't they do those?--and the 
people who design them.  Is it all freelance?  I know someone via the 
net--or used to, she's not posting any more--who had a small line of 
reenactment patterns.  She approached Simplicity with an idea for a 
pattern she thought would work well in their historic line. Simplicity 
told her to work it out and submit it to them on a freelance basis.

I don't know what happened with her idea.  But is that how all 
Simplicity's historic patterns are designed, by freelancers?

I hate to say this but, the market for general sewing still seems to be 
much larger than the market for reenactment sewing. Yes, reenactors have 
to make their own clothes far more than most people. Yes, most women 
have jobs outside the home that limit their time for sewing. But there 
are still a lot more mainstream sewers than reenactors. Notice 
Simplicity hedged their bets on that bustle dress by marketing it as a 
wedding dress--many people get married, some more than once.

Sewing is a hobby these days, not a need, for most people.  Many people 
who could buy an $8 blouse at Wal-Mart, just want something much better 
quality and more stylish--and they enjoy sewing.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Lalah wrote:

> Just to add to your observations.  It is cheaper to buy clothing at WalMart than it is to make it yourself.  When you have to pay ten bucks for a pattern and you can buy a blouse for eight dollars guess which most people will do.  At a place in time when so many people are so busy and "multi tasking" is the norm, too many people don't have the time (nor sadly, the ability) to sew.  
> 
> People new to SCA or Ren Faires or re-enacting are the exception.  They are not going to get their garb off the rack in a discount store and most of them are not accomplished at making up their own patterns.  People like Martha are a godsend to them because they can purchase a pattern that will pass inspection (to all but the really critical) and that they can understand.  It takes a bit of experience to deal with some of the period patterns or to work from a charted pattern on a book page. 
> 
> To cut this rambling short, I just want to add my "Bravo Martha" and hope that Simplicity has sense enough to know what a gem they have!  
> 
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!
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Status: RO

I just ordered a copy from Advanced Book Exchange--www.abebooks.com.

Publication dates are marketing dates, they have little to do with when 
a book rolls off the press.  As for Amazon, they post data when they 
happen to feel like it.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Suzi Clarke wrote:

> At 17:27 24/02/2006, you wrote:
> 
>> I, too, could not find it at Amazon.com (the USA site), but I did a 
>> web search and found it at two UK bookshops.  Here's one of them:  
>> http://www.countrybookshop.co.uk/books/index.phtml?whatfor=1861084765
>>
>> Looks like it is not officially published until Monday, Feb. 27, so 
>> that may be why it's not listed in the USA Amazon site.
>
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Janet wrote:

> While my S.O. was wearing knee length t-tunics before I ever met him, he won't
> wear hose on a bet.  However, weight gain plus an unwillingness to buy new
> clothes made me realize that, as long as his footwear covers the ankle,
> sweatpants in a size or two too small make a good substitute.  They definitely
> look better than modern dance tights and most sweat pants stretch enough that
> they're not uncomfortable.  Of course, the shopper has to be vigilant to avoid
> stripes and logos and strange looking fabrics but a man won't see anything
> unusual about wearing sweatpants, even if they do cling to legs and butt.


My husband is a knight in the SCA, and has a kingdom award for authenticity.
But one of his "tricks" is the special fighting hose he makes. He takes a
pair of sweatpants and cuts off the legs at about mid-thigh level. Then he
makes hosen out of bias-cut sweatpant-type material. He made the pattern for
these himself, basing them on hose patterns and fitting them to his legs. He
cuts the top of the hose legs so that they come to a point on the front of
his thighs, and then he sews these to the sweatpant tops. They look like
hose over colored breeches (white gets too dirty), but they fit like
sweatpants and are much easier to make than wool hose. They even look good
with a shirt or tunic.

Just an idea for y'all!

Oh -- yes, these are footed. Not that difficult to do, and then they are
tight under boots or shoes.

Gail Finke

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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns
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I agree that many people prefer quality clothing, but far too many do not.  I made a living as a seamstress for several years before retiring and most of my work was home dec or alterations (I HATE alterations). I have taught several people to sew, but they don't seem to ever have time to do it.  And at the weekly auction I attend sewing machines (good ones) go for almost nothing.  I learned to sew as a child and most of my clothes have always been made by my mother (when I was young) or by myself.  But I am 5'9" and 71 years old.  Until girls started growing taller these last few years, I couldn't get anything that came close to fitting in the stores.  

Anyhow, I am glad there are people designing patterns for period garb that most people who sew at all can use.  I usually just make my patterns up as I go along or sort of copy them from Janet Arnold or something.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:

From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 12:26:53 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns

What I'm interested in knowing, is how Simplicity chooses 
patterns--aside from market surveys, don't they do those?--and the 
people who design them.  Is it all freelance?  I know someone via the 
net--or used to, she's not posting any more--who had a small line of 
reenactment patterns.  She approached Simplicity with an idea for a 
pattern she thought would work well in their historic line. Simplicity 
told her to work it out and submit it to them on a freelance basis.

I don't know what happened with her idea.  But is that how all 
Simplicity's historic patterns are designed, by freelancers?

I hate to say this but, the market for general sewing still seems to be 
much larger than the market for reenactment sewing. Yes, reenactors have 
to make their own clothes far more than most people. Yes, most women 
have jobs outside the home that limit their time for sewing. But there 
are still a lot more mainstream sewers than reenactors. Notice 
Simplicity hedged their bets on that bustle dress by marketing it as a 
wedding dress--many people get married, some more than once.

Sewing is a hobby these days, not a need, for most people.  Many people 
who could buy an $8 blouse at Wal-Mart, just want something much better 
quality and more stylish--and they enjoy sewing.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Lalah wrote:

> Just to add to your observations.  It is cheaper to buy clothing at WalMart than it is to make it yourself.  When you have to pay ten bucks for a pattern and you can buy a blouse for eight dollars guess which most people will do.  At a place in time when so many people are so busy and "multi tasking" is the norm, too many people don't have the time (nor sadly, the ability) to sew.  
> 
> People new to SCA or Ren Faires or re-enacting are the exception.  They are not going to get their garb off the rack in a discount store and most of them are not accomplished at making up their own patterns.  People like Martha are a godsend to them because they can purchase a pattern that will pass inspection (to all but the really critical) and that they can understand.  It takes a bit of experience to deal with some of the period patterns or to work from a charted pattern on a book page. 
> 
> To cut this rambling short, I just want to add my "Bravo Martha" and hope that Simplicity has sense enough to know what a gem they have!  
> 
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
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Yeah, but the 8$ blouse from W-M only lasts a couple of months of wash/wear
for me, while any clothing/garb I have made myself- admittedly not the best
ever created- is still going strong several years later. Some has needed
mending or adjustments, but because I put it together(without any serging) I
know how to fix it too, so the "cost per wear" is much better.
Just my .02 lira, Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lalah
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 11:23 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns

Just to add to your observations.  It is cheaper to buy clothing at WalMart
than it is to make it yourself.  When you have to pay ten bucks for a
pattern and you can buy a blouse for eight dollars guess which most people
will do.  At a place in time when so many people are so busy and "multi
tasking" is the norm, too many people don't have the time (nor sadly, the
ability) to sew.  

People new to SCA or Ren Faires or re-enacting are the exception.  They are
not going to get their garb off the rack in a discount store and most of
them are not accomplished at making up their own patterns.  People like
Martha are a godsend to them because they can purchase a pattern that will
pass inspection (to all but the really critical) and that they can
understand.  It takes a bit of experience to deal with some of the period
patterns or to work from a charted pattern on a book page. 

To cut this rambling short, I just want to add my "Bravo Martha" and hope
that Simplicity has sense enough to know what a gem they have!  

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 07:28:38 -0800 (PST)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re:patterns

actually, Simplicity may be really gald they have you, Martha.  Read that
SHOULD BE GLAD.
   
  Down here in North Carolina it seems to be the home sewing market is
really dried up in the past 10 or so years.  Nobody is sewing for children,
Nobody is really doing sewing for themselves,   There are really no fabric
stores in a 100 mile radius of Charlotte beyond, Mary Jos and Hancock's, and
mostly they have home deck and quilting fabric, not much in the way of
people type fabric.  The nearest  JoAnns in 90+ miles away. There are
several stores at cater to the quilting segment, and one small one that sell
Upmarket/Highend fabrics.  A this is an introduction to  Major Patter
Companies can't be selling a huge amount of home sewing patterns.  Right
now, all I can think of who are doing sewing are the reenactment/costume
folks like us.  And these are people who will go ANYWHERE,  Look at
everything, Buy patterns that they don't really need but collect anyway,
Have projects in the planning stage for a long time.
   
  It would be interesting to know how well the patterns do in comparison to
other costume patterns and general run of the mill patterns vs. home dec
stuff.  
   
  18c Mia in Charlotte NC, remembering the glory days of being near
Baltimore MD and Washington DC.  Remembering  G Street Fabrics when it
actually was on G Street DC
   
   

		
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My point was that most people who sew don't do it because they _have_ 
to. Even some who are unusual sizes. (I'm 4'9" tall, and I don't have to 
sew modern clothes, except for hemming a lot of them, if I don't want 
to.) People sew because they enjoy it. Yes, we've certainly passed the 
days when almost every woman who wasn't working in a factory 16 hours a 
day did home sewing.  But then, some of them found it a pretty dreary 
duty.  It's much nicer for people to be sewing for fun, enjoying their 
fancy sewing machines, their emboidery machines, their 4-color sewing 
magazines, and their huge fabric stashes.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com



Lalah wrote:

> I agree that many people prefer quality clothing, but far too many do not.  
<snip>
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 16:08:55 -0500
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AMEN !

  Love those fabric stashes!  So nice to be able to afford fabric just 
for fun and the time to appreciate it.

Susan

"The universe is not to be narrowed down to the limits of our 
understanding...but our understanding must be stretched and enlarged to 
take in the image of the universe as it is discovered. " Francis Bacon

On Feb 24, 2006, at 4:00 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> My point was that most people who sew don't do it because they _have_ 
> to. Even some who are unusual sizes. (I'm 4'9" tall, and I don't have 
> to sew modern clothes, except for hemming a lot of them, if I don't 
> want to.) People sew because they enjoy it. Yes, we've certainly 
> passed the days when almost every woman who wasn't working in a 
> factory 16 hours a day did home sewing.  But then, some of them found 
> it a pretty dreary duty.  It's much nicer for people to be sewing for 
> fun, enjoying their fancy sewing machines, their emboidery machines, 
> their 4-color sewing magazines, and their huge fabric stashes.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
>
> Lalah wrote:
>
>> I agree that many people prefer quality clothing, but far too many do 
>> not.
> <snip>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] Plates from "The Image of Ireland", 1581
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This set of plates is a contemporary look at Irish costume (looks 
like males only, in battle scenes).

http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/ireland.html


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Status: RO

I ordered that book when Bjarne first mentioned it in December. It is
available from Amazon.co.uk, and a link is pasted below.  If the link
doesn't work, go to www.amazon.co.uk and search for Gail Marsh books.  It is
published by the Guild of Master Craftsman Publications Ltd, so I imagine it
might not be available at Amazon in the US.  I went to the Guild's web page
and they have many, many wonderful books there. I got an email that mine
shipped from the UK on Wednesday, hopefully it will be here next week
sometime.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/1861084765/qid=1140815515/sr=1-1/re
f=sr_1_0_1/026-1856084-3479602

-Megan




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Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 13:19:01 -0800
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From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] 16th century Scottish costume
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Here are two pages from Scottish metrical psalter books from the 16th century.

http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/pages/bg0010_JPG.htm

http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/pages/bg0011_JPG.htm

Again, only males :-( , but something is better than nothing, I guess.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Tambour hook/ was A book for Bjarne,
	and other 18thcentury embroiderers!!
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 16:33:59 -0500
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Hedgehog Handiworks also carries them.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tambour hook/ was A book for Bjarne, and other
18thcentury embroiderers!!


> Try Lacis: http://www.lacis.com/catalog/search.php.
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> >Sent: Feb 24, 2006 11:32 AM
> >To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Subject: [h-cost]  Tambour hook/ was A book for Bjarne, and other 18th
century embroiderers!!
> >
> >
> >Now I have had time to look at this beautiful book, I want to try
> >tambour embroidery. (Not beading.) Does anyone have a source for the
> >hooks? I have the handle part somewhere, but a source for that would
> >probably be good too.
> >
> >Suzi
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
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> _______________________________________________
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Babylon 5
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I actually met the man once at a con. Wonderful person. Sad to hear he's
gone.
De

-----Original Message-----
I got to see one of the G'Kar costumes at the Seattle Science Fiction
Museum
last weekend.  The costume is almost all created out of hot glue and
bits
and pieces.  I was so bummed to hear that Andreas Katsulas passed away
from
inoperable lung cancer on 13 February.
"loved smoking with a passion that cannot be described", was diagnosed
with
inoperable lung cancer; he passed away a year later, in Los Angeles,
California. He was 59. He is survived by his wife and two children. The
day
after his death, his Babylon 5 co-star Jerry Doyle devoted much of his
daily
radio talk show to Katsulas, sharing stories of their days working
together
on Babylon 5.

Regina


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Babylon 5
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On Fri, 24 Feb 2006, otsisto wrote:

> I actually met the man once at a con. Wonderful person. Sad to hear
> he's gone.

I had met him also. He had a tremendous presence, and I was very saddened
to hear of his death. He grew up here in St. Louis, and his family was
part of the local Greek Orthodox community (of which my husband is a
member). The funeral was here, in fact, but very quiet; in the newspaper
listing he was named only as "Andrew Katsulas," and there was no obituary
article.

Yet one more reason I am a merciless nag to my friends who smoke. I have
seen too many people die of preventable lung cancer.

No costume content here, alas, unless I point out that cigarettes do very
nasty things to fabric (one more good reason to quit!).

--Robin


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Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 18:38:40 -0400
From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: home sewing
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It may be cheaper to buy clothes at Walmart than it is to make them, but not
everyone shops at Walmart. Political discussions aside -- there are plenty
of other places to buy clothes, and some of them cost big bucks. You can
make a Vogue garment for a lot less than it costs to buy some clothes, or
for the same price but in exactly the fabric you want.

That said, I don't sew my clothes. Who has the time??? But last weekend I
made my family flannel pajama pants ("lounge pants"). These truly are a
garment you can buy cheaper than you can sew, but our Joanne's is going out
of business (wah!) and all the flannel was 60% off. No buys on good fabric
-- this Joanne's rarely had any to begin with.

Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] How Simplicity chooses patterns
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns

What I'm interested in knowing, is how Simplicity chooses
patterns--aside from market surveys, don't they do those?--and the
people who design them.  Is it all freelance?  I know someone via the
net--or used to, she's not posting any more--who had a small line of
reenactment patterns.  She approached Simplicity with an idea for a
pattern she thought would work well in their historic line. Simplicity
told her to work it out and submit it to them on a freelance basis.

I don't know what happened with her idea.  But is that how all
Simplicity's historic patterns are designed, by freelancers?
I can answer this in any depth you like.  Not only do I design for
Simplicity, last summer Andrea Schewe and I gave a slide talk at Costume
College on the inner workings at Simplicity.  We interviewed everybody from
the sketch artists to the man in the mailroom and took photographs of them
at work.
The fashion designs for Simplicity are done in house.  There are drapers and
seamstresses right there.  The craft, home dec, and costume designs are done
by freelancers (read No Benefits.) We get royalties only. Some of us are in
New York and schlep sketches and muslin mocks-ups over to the design office
to pitch an idea.  Some people are elsewhere in the country and mail things
in.
They choose designs (and decide whether to keep them in the catalogue) based
on sales.  Your design has to sell enough copies to "hold its place in the
drawer" at JoAnn's or Wall Mart. They tend to work with people they know
because it's very exacting - even for the Halloween costumes with the zipper
up the back.
If you want to know more, just ask. I might have an answer.
Martha



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Babylon 5
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At 06:03 AM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>I saw that we had lost Andreas last week, hits home right now as my
>father just had surgery for lung cancer (caught unbelievable early,
>excellent prognosis).  There will never be another G'Kar.
>
>Catherine


Oh, thank goodness Catherine for your father.

Kimiko


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT Smoking
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At 08:13 PM 2/23/2006, you wrote:
>My father passed away after fighting emphysema for about 7 years.  It was a
>mercy because he was bright and alert right up until the end.  He just was
>slowly drowning because of 45-50 years of smoking.  Every time I see someone
>light up I want to beat them!  It's not that the death is so bad - it's the
>dying.  Way too often it is long and agonizing for everyone involved!
>
>Wanda


I agree with you Wanda.

My husband wants to have a commercial of a young person lighting up, saying 
"it's my choice, if I die, it will only affect me." Then show that person 
grow older, and how as they go through life; falling in love, getting 
married, having kids, then young grandkids. A progression until they die 
relatively early in life of cancer or other smoking related illness and 
show the grief of those they leave behind. The idea is to show how smoking 
affects their whole family, not just their personal bodies.

I know we all die sometime of something. But I know in my Mom's case, she 
was in excellent health otherwise. No history of anything, ate right, 
exercised, everything good she could do, except she smoked from the age of 
16 till she died a couple of months past her 73rd birthday, with only a few 
years where she had quit. She was given smokes from an American military 
man sometime after the bombing in Japan. As a Japanese woman, she had a 
life expectancy of her 80s or higher. She left knowing she wouldn't see her 
the grand daughter she had waited her whole life to hold. But thankfully, 
she is no longer in the intense pain she had from the cancer, which had 
spread to her bones in her spine and beyond.

Kimiko

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At 07:55 PM 2/23/2006, you wrote:
>Oh, man; I *hate* that.  Small cell lung cancer is a truely ugly
>disease.  The *two* year survival rate is *20%*
>
>Susan, whose beloved Mother-in-law lived 13 months with small cell.
>-----
>Susan Farmer


I understand. My mom had squamous(sp?) cell and lived 12 months after 
diagnosis (died last May 1st), sixteen months from the time her pains 
started. My beloved father in law, who treated me as his own daughter, also 
died of cancer in just a month after diagnosis, although we know he was 
sick for months before. He passed on a year before my Mom in February. I 
hates Cancer, I do!

Kimiko


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns
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At 12:26 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>  Many people who could buy an $8 blouse at Wal-Mart, just want something 
> much better quality and more stylish--and they enjoy sewing.
>
>Fran


I agree Fran.

I hate buying clothes at Wal-Mart, and no longer support the store. I 
bought some pants and a blouse there once, and they fell apart after only a 
few months of basic use. Pathetic. It's bad enough I can't find anything to 
fit me as a plus sized person, but I would expect clothes to last longer 
than a few months.

But that's what we've become, a throw-away society. Companies expect us to 
buy something and throw it away after a short period of time, and that's sad.

Thankfully, I learned how to sew from my Mom long ago, and I've gotten to 
sewing more and more of my regular clothes, not just for fun, but because I 
want something that will fit all of me, and last longer.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns/bravo Martha
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 19:38:26 -0400
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Martha is a god send, to even the most critical. We tried her patterns while 
at the Citadel, just to see how they worked out...a little experimentation 
in the off season.  They were wonderful to work with and the attention to 
detail was spot on!  I recommend them to a lot of folks, can't wait to see 
what's next!
Kelly


 > People like Martha are a godsend to them because >they can purchase a 
pattern that will pass inspection (to >all but the really critical) and that 
they can understand. 
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From: "Mandy Oldroyd" <mandy.oldroyd@gmail.com>
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OK out of lurkdom for me
<waves at everyone>
As an experienced sewer but relative novice at historical stuff I would love
to hear ALL the gossip on how Simplicity works.

As a slight aside I literally just (last Friday)bought 5724 to make for my
14 yr old to wear to a fantasy ball in the summer, (I haven't decided on my
outfit yet) It won't end up being period accurate but more inspired by... so
it's very cool to know the person who designed it is here. Thank you.

Mandy
in the UK

www.mandyoldroyd.com
www.theoldroyds.co.uk
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> 
> I can answer this in any depth you like.  Not only do I design for
> Simplicity, last summer Andrea Schewe and I gave a slide talk at Costume
> College on the inner workings at Simplicity. 

Have you ever thought of writing an article on this for _Sew News_ or 
_Threads_?  Or maybe you already have, I don't subscribe to either any 
more (got tired of these magazines publishing mostly beginner articles).

The craft, home dec, and costume designs are done
> by freelancers (read No Benefits.) We get royalties only. Some of us are in
> New York and schlep sketches and muslin mocks-ups over to the design office
> to pitch an idea.  Some people are elsewhere in the country and mail things
> in.

Are they fairly open to acquiring new freelance designers?


> They choose designs (and decide whether to keep them in the catalogue) based
> on sales.  

I've heard that, yeah.

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns
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> But that's what we've become, a throw-away society. Companies expect us 
> to buy something and throw it away after a short period of time, and 
> that's sad.

Well, that's what some (not all) manufacturers _want_.  I'm not sure all 
buyers are happy about it.

It really depends.  Some designer clothing just caters to the desire to 
have something "different" without being better quality. Like rib 
T-shirts or tank tops or camisoles or henleys with a little lace sewn on 
here and there. Anyone can dye a cotton knit shirt from Dharma and add 
interesting trims, cheaper.  (I've been doing a lot of that.)  But some 
designer clothes are really well made.  I've got Ralph Lauren wool 
jackets you can throw on the floor and walk on them (which I do, being a 
slob), and they not only don't wrinkle, they last for years.

> 
> Thankfully, I learned how to sew from my Mom long ago, and I've gotten 
> to sewing more and more of my regular clothes, not just for fun, but 
> because I want something that will fit all of me, and last longer.
> 

If anyone wants some fabric with hand embroidery and hand crochet cheap, 
to make into this season's eyelet type clothing looks, the eBay seller 
china-usa has great tablecloths.  I machine dyed one of their 
tablecloths to make into a skirt.  Came out great, took the dye well, 
and the embroidery and crochet stayed rock solid through all that 
agitation.  So I just bought two more--$9 apiece including napkins, and 
all hand work.

I haven't tried dyeing any of their all crochet pieces yet, but I'm 
thinking about it.  They have great Edwardian look hand-crocheted 
collars at $12 apiece.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Babylon 5
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At 02:51 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>The funeral was here, in fact, but very quiet; in the newspaper
>listing he was named only as "Andrew Katsulas," and there was no obituary
>article.


I met him at a con as well, and was told he was a very private person, 
which is why he didn't give out autographs like the rest of the cast did. 
That may also explain why I didn't see much on regular printed newspapers 
or on TV about his passing.

Kimiko


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<snip>
 Notice
> Simplicity hedged their bets on that bustle dress by marketing it as a 
> wedding dress--many people get married, some more than once.
>
> Sewing is a hobby these days, not a need, for most people.  Many people 
> who could buy an $8 blouse at Wal-Mart, just want something much better 
> quality and more stylish--and they enjoy sewing.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
<snip>

Marketing patterns to brides is something you see from several of their 
historical patterns, if you look in the printed catalogue at the fabric shop 
you'll notice that if the dress in the photo is not already white they often 
have an artist's sketch of it in white with a veil. The ones I particularly 
remember are the 'Shakespeare in love' gown and Martha's two day dresses 
with pagoda sleeves. Because a wedding dress is the garment a woman is most 
likely to have custom made and be willing to spend a lot of money on it 
makes sense that a pattern company would try to get as big a share of that 
market as possible. In reality I wouldn't be surprised if the historical 
themed weddings was a bigger market than re-enactors.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything.

You can see the Costume books (103 titles) at:
http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=costume&view=Castlegrounds

Textiles (113 titles) at:
http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=textiles&view=Castlegrounds

Archaeology (108 titles) at:
http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=archaeology&view=Castlegrounds

I only have a little over 400 books listed so far... still lots to go.

Anyone else doing this?

Beth Matney

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On Friday 24 February 2006 8:05 pm, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything.
[snipping URLs]

> I only have a little over 400 books listed so far... still lots to go.
>
> Anyone else doing this?

Using what for time?  When I retire, maybe.

Ooooh, I made the mistake of looking at your list.  You have NESATs 2 and 4.  
Envy, drool!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
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At 05:05 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything.
>
>You can see the Costume books (103 titles) at:
>http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=costume&view=Castlegrounds
>
>Textiles (113 titles) at:
>http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=textiles&view=Castlegrounds
>
>Archaeology (108 titles) at:
>http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=archaeology&view=Castlegrounds
>
>I only have a little over 400 books listed so far... still lots to go.
>
>Anyone else doing this?
>
>Beth Matney

Not yet.  I've been telling myself for years that I need to do 
something like this.  But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership 
:-D.  Thanks for sharing the site.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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I have a librarything account (Jaie) I've only so far gotten my paperbacks
up there but so far so good. I'm going to get a paid account here pretty
soon.

Bice

On 2/24/06, Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
>
> On Friday 24 February 2006 8:05 pm, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> > I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything.
> [snipping URLs]
>
> > I only have a little over 400 books listed so far... still lots to go.
> >
> > Anyone else doing this?
>
> Using what for time?  When I retire, maybe.
>
> Ooooh, I made the mistake of looking at your list.  You have NESATs 2 and
> 4.
> Envy, drool!
>
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical
> results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns
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Status: RO

And then there's the strange folks like me--I'll buy the cheap modern clothes so I can spend my limited "leisure" time doing what I love--historical sewing.  I don't get any emotional "charge" out of running up a modern blouse on the serger, but lots of fulfillment in doing fussy work on a period project.

My time is limited and so are my resources, so I like to spend both judiciously.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Lalah<mailto:lalahcatlady@netscape.com> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 12:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns


  I agree that many people prefer quality clothing, but far too many do not.  I made a living as a seamstress for several years before retiring and most of my work was home dec or alterations (I HATE alterations). I have taught several people to sew, but they don't seem to ever have time to do it.  And at the weekly auction I attend sewing machines (good ones) go for almost nothing.  I learned to sew as a child and most of my clothes have always been made by my mother (when I was young) or by myself.  But I am 5'9" and 71 years old.  Until girls started growing taller these last few years, I couldn't get anything that came close to fitting in the stores.  

  Anyhow, I am glad there are people designing patterns for period garb that most people who sew at all can use.  I usually just make my patterns up as I go along or sort of copy them from Janet Arnold or something.

  Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


  --- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com<mailto:fran@lavoltapress.com>> wrote:

  From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com<mailto:fran@lavoltapress.com>>
  Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 12:26:53 -0800
  To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>>
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns

  What I'm interested in knowing, is how Simplicity chooses 
  patterns--aside from market surveys, don't they do those?--and the 
  people who design them.  Is it all freelance?  I know someone via the 
  net--or used to, she's not posting any more--who had a small line of 
  reenactment patterns.  She approached Simplicity with an idea for a 
  pattern she thought would work well in their historic line. Simplicity 
  told her to work it out and submit it to them on a freelance basis.

  I don't know what happened with her idea.  But is that how all 
  Simplicity's historic patterns are designed, by freelancers?

  I hate to say this but, the market for general sewing still seems to be 
  much larger than the market for reenactment sewing. Yes, reenactors have 
  to make their own clothes far more than most people. Yes, most women 
  have jobs outside the home that limit their time for sewing. But there 
  are still a lot more mainstream sewers than reenactors. Notice 
  Simplicity hedged their bets on that bustle dress by marketing it as a 
  wedding dress--many people get married, some more than once.

  Sewing is a hobby these days, not a need, for most people.  Many people 
  who could buy an $8 blouse at Wal-Mart, just want something much better 
  quality and more stylish--and they enjoy sewing.

  Fran
  Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns
  http://www.lavoltapress.com<http://www.lavoltapress.com/>


  Lalah wrote:

  > Just to add to your observations.  It is cheaper to buy clothing at WalMart than it is to make it yourself.  When you have to pay ten bucks for a pattern and you can buy a blouse for eight dollars guess which most people will do.  At a place in time when so many people are so busy and "multi tasking" is the norm, too many people don't have the time (nor sadly, the ability) to sew.  
  > 
  > People new to SCA or Ren Faires or re-enacting are the exception.  They are not going to get their garb off the rack in a discount store and most of them are not accomplished at making up their own patterns.  People like Martha are a godsend to them because they can purchase a pattern that will pass inspection (to all but the really critical) and that they can understand.  It takes a bit of experience to deal with some of the period patterns or to work from a charted pattern on a book page. 
  > 
  > To cut this rambling short, I just want to add my "Bravo Martha" and hope that Simplicity has sense enough to know what a gem they have!  
  > 
  > Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
  >
  _______________________________________________
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  _____________________________________________________________
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: patterns & fashion
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 21:52:52 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Feb 24, 2006, at 6:10 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:

> But that's what we've become, a throw-away society. Companies expect 
> us to buy something and throw it away after a short period of time, 
> and that's sad.

That's what passes for Fashion, folks!  Clothes don't have to last.  
They are out of fashion and are thrown away.
I can't believe what my Sister in Law and my Niece spend on "fashion"- 
at outlets, no less.  The quality is so poor plus, in my opinion, they 
look like they work the street for a living wearing these clothes !  
And they pass remarks about MY clothes.

We all went to London and Paris this past August.  My 21 year old niece 
had nasty words for people who stared at her.  Well...when you are in 
Fashion Meccas like these, and no one else is wearing anything remotely 
like you are-?????
And, your male friend has tattoos from wrist to shoulder on one arm 
only...Hmmmm

I say this sitting here wearing my sweats.  In Europe, I wore shorts 
and t-shirts.  No fashion model am I !!! But then, I don't try to be 
one.

Off the soap box for now.

Susan

"Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness"
Carol H.
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns
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Quoting Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>:

*snippage*

>
> To cut this rambling short, I just want to add my "Bravo Martha" and 
> hope that Simplicity has sense enough to know what a gem they have!

I know that $$$ speak volumes to Simplicity, but what about letters?

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns
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In a message dated 2/24/2006 9:13:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
luann_mason@msn.com writes:

I'll buy  the cheap modern clothes so I can spend my limited "leisure" time 
doing what I  love--historical sewing.  I don't get any emotional "charge" out 
of  running up a modern blouse on the serger, but lots of fulfillment in doing 
 fussy work on a period project.



And that is exactly how it is with me.  I put my limited time into the  
historical sewing, and the occasional gifts for a grandchild or art-to-wear type  
things.  When one adds the value of one's time to the cost of materials,  
modern clothes aren't cost-effective to make.  I must say, too, that  durability 
iof ready-to-wear doesn't seem to be a problem for me.   I've been revisiting 
clothes I haven't worn in a while (and weeding out some to  give away), and I 
have some garments that are 10, 15, or 20 years old--and these  were definitely 
moderately priced to begin with, not expensive.  (One of  the oldest garments 
in my wardrobe is a Judy Bond blouse that I know I bought at  least 20 years 
ago.)
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Fashion book - any difference between editions?
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This may have been covered before, but just in case:

Is there any real difference between this edition of the Kyoto Costume
Institute's "Fashion":
<http://www.taschen.com/pages/en/catalogue/books/design/all/facts/01839.htm>

And the two volume in a slipcase edition?:
<http://www.taschen.com/pages/en/catalogue/books/design/all/facts/04401.htm>

I ask because I've had the former on order with Borders.com for over
two months and it doesn't look like they'll be able to get it. The
first volume of the second edition is listed, but no mention is made
at the Border's site that it includes both volumes. Please advise.

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.

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Subject: [h-cost] corded corset shrinkage?
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One last question for the night:

A friend helped me drape a pattern for an early 17th c. fencing
doublet. For protection and support I want to cord the
lining/interlining like the corset described here:
<http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/cording/cord.html >

before adding quilted cotton padding/outer layer.

Does anyone have any experience with possible shrinkage? The site
mentions no exact numbers and that it's highly variable by fabric
type. I'm planning on making the "corseted" part out of cotton canvas.

Thoughts?

Thanks again,

Allison T.

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Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 23:43:58 -0500
From: "RON CARNEGIE" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Wow,

   This sounds familiar!  I have more shoes than any other man I know.  Most 
of them cost at least $100, but none of those are suitable for daily wear! 
My regular shoes are cheap and I wear them untill I just can't get away with 
it anymore.  Sometimes beyond that.  People often dont recognize me out of 
costume because I dress well in period, but shabbily out!  I actually have 
just started spending some money to amend that, but it is money that I have 
been forced to spend out of embarrassment.

I wonder how common this is on this list?

Ron Carnegie


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "LuAnn Mason" <luann_mason@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns


And then there's the strange folks like me--I'll buy the cheap modern 
clothes so I can spend my limited "leisure" time doing what I 
love--historical sewing.  I don't get any emotional "charge" out of running 
up a modern blouse on the serger, but lots of fulfillment in doing fussy 
work on a period project.

My time is limited and so are my resources, so I like to spend both 
judiciously.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message ----- 
 /h-costume 

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*snip*
>   This sounds familiar!  I have more shoes than any other man I know. 
> Most of them cost at least $100, but none of those are suitable for daily 
> wear! My regular shoes are cheap and I wear them untill I just can't get 
> away with it anymore.  Sometimes beyond that.  People often dont recognize 
> me out of costume because I dress well in period, but shabbily out!  I 
> actually have just started spending some money to amend that, but it is 
> money that I have been forced to spend out of embarrassment.
>
> I wonder how common this is on this list?


I'm betting that it's much more common than one would think. I know a number 
of folks whose period dress is better made and is a much higher fabric 
quality than what they wear in the modern world, myself included.

Since my illness last year, my "uniform" has been sweat pants/capris, tee 
shirts and tennis shoes. I've pretty much stopped doing my beloved Italian 
gowns and have opted for 14th century stuff since it's easier for me to 
manage. My hair is much shorter now (it started falling out 4 months after 
my hospital stay); it's been years since it's been this short and I can't do 
a thing with it! :-)

Most of the stuff that I've made recently is made of linen, linen/silk 
blend, wool, wool/silk blend. None of my modern clothing comes even close.

kate 


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Melanie, you're an angel! Thank you SO much!!! I had
tried there only briefly before I left for NY and
couldn't find it. 

Thanks again!!

Kathy

> It's from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art:

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Men's shoes 1800-1810 question
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 00:30:50 -0800
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My husband is in "Once Upon A Mattress" and just bought "jazz" shoes-- flat,
black, with a small heel. Not perfectly period, but close, easy to find and
comfortable.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 11:50 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men's shoes 1800-1810 question


 
In a message dated 2/23/2006 10:26:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Flat  pumps, very like ladies' shoes of the same period.



Ditto--definitely NOT boots--they were not proper for the "drawing room"
nor 
for the ballroom.
 
My husband wears a loafer type shoe, but with the seam stitched inside,
like 
this.
_http://www.allenedmonds.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplayDetailVi
ew
?storeId=1&langId=-1&contractId=100&catalogId=40000000001&parent_category_rn
=1
83&categoryId=190&productId=6370000&imageType=1&occasion=190_ 
(http://www.allenedmonds.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplayDetailVi
ew?storeId=1&langI
d=-1&contractId=100&catalogId=40000000001&parent_category_rn=183&categoryId=
19
0&productId=6370000&imageType=1&occasion=190) 
  Regular formal pumps don't seem to come wide enough to fit  him.  But if 
you can find them, they would be best.  
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 01:02:36 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Plates from "The Image of Ireland", 1581
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At 01:09 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>This set of plates is a contemporary look at Irish costume (looks like 
>males only, in battle scenes).
>
>http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/ireland.html
>
>
>Joan Jurancich
>joanmj@surewest.net


Yes, lovely plates with great detail for being online. I found that site, 
or maybe it was posted here, a few months back. I based a friend's outfit 
on the dinner scene bard.
http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/pages/bg0055_jpg.htm

There is what I think is a female shown in the burning farmhouse image. 
She's at the bottom right, letter B.
http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/pages/bg0054_jpg.htm

Thanks for reminding me of these plates. I needed some images of Irish 
garments for a project I am working on.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century Scottish costume
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At 01:19 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>Here are two pages from Scottish metrical psalter books from the 16th century.
>
>http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/pages/bg0010_JPG.htm
>
>http://www.lib.ed.ac.uk/about/bgallery/Gallery/researchcoll/pages/bg0011_JPG.htm
>
>Again, only males  , but something is better than nothing, I guess.
>
>Joan Jurancich


Oooh, I hadn't seen these before. Very cool. Thanks!

Kimiko


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Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 01:18:36 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corded corset shrinkage?
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Hi Allison,

I haven't done any specific corded projects yet (I am planning on a corded 
pair of bodies soon), but I've done Trapunto accented garments, which is 
very similar, as both require sewing channels and then stuffing them with 
some sort of cord, or yarn in my case.

There is no way to specifically determine the shrinkage factor. It will 
depend on your fabric, your cording, and how tightly you sew them together, 
and how high the cords build up. You can try to make a good guess by making 
a sample of what you want to do, measuring carefully before and after to 
see how much shrinkage you get.

What I did with my trapunto project (a doublet) was outline the garment 
pattern and add about 2" all around the area to be worked. I then sewed my 
casings, and filled with the cording I chose. I then laid my pattern back 
down over the piece and marked again, then trimmed the extra. Since you are 
doing a garment, make sure to mark the grain of the fabric so you can match 
that up again when you put the pattern back on.

hth,

Kimiko

At 07:10 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>A friend helped me drape a pattern for an early 17th c. fencing
>doublet. For protection and support I want to cord the
>lining/interlining like the corset described here:
><http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/cording/cord.html >
>before adding quilted cotton padding/outer layer.
>
>Does anyone have any experience with possible shrinkage? The site
>mentions no exact numbers and that it's highly variable by fabric
>type. I'm planning on making the "corseted" part out of cotton canvas.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
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At 05:05 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything.
>
><snip>>
>Anyone else doing this?

Hi Beth,

I've been slowly cataloging my books on a software called Book Collector.
http://www.collectorz.com/book/
I have found the program to be very helpful, very detailed, and what I need 
for me. I can even transfer the data to my Palm, which is helpful when I am 
out shopping. I will be uploading a book review page to my personal web 
site, that takes it's info from the same program.

Each their own I guess... it's just finding the time to enter every book I 
own, so I try for a little at a time.

Kimiko



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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns
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Status: RO

	I seem to be the square peg here. ;-) It is because of the hours it
took to create quality historical clothing that made me into a textile snob.
I detest shopping in retail stores because the quality of the textiles and
manufacture is just wrong, ugly, shoddy. When I'm pressed for time and am
desperate to replace a garment I cave and shop retail. But mostly I try to
make my own garments using the same standards I do for historical garments. 

	The fabrics I choose are mostly natural fibre, all French or
flat-fell seamed. Everything is custom fitted. (No one hour Simplicity Jiffy
patterns for me). As a result of that and the care I give those garments, I
find they last a very long time. In fact, I have a cotton velveteen tunic
with mabee pearl buttons I made ten years ago which is still fashionable,
and still standing up very well. Just last year I had to retire a blue silk
noile hand-embroidered shirt I'd worn fairly steadily for about eight years,
and a gorgeous black silk noile tunic.

	Even the casual garments I wear are made with the same care, and as
a result stand the test of time. I figure it's money and time well invested.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 00:33:34 -0500
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
Subject: [h-cost] 
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <003301c639cd$06269ab0$2f02a8c0@Duncan>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=response

*snip*
>   This sounds familiar!  I have more shoes than any other man I know. 
> Most of them cost at least $100, but none of those are suitable for daily 
> wear! My regular shoes are cheap and I wear them untill I just can't get 
> away with it anymore.  Sometimes beyond that.  People often dont recognize

> me out of costume because I dress well in period, but shabbily out!  I 
> actually have just started spending some money to amend that, but it is 
> money that I have been forced to spend out of embarrassment.
>
> I wonder how common this is on this list?


I'm betting that it's much more common than one would think. I know a number

of folks whose period dress is better made and is a much higher fabric 
quality than what they wear in the modern world, myself included.

Since my illness last year, my "uniform" has been sweat pants/capris, tee 
shirts and tennis shoes. I've pretty much stopped doing my beloved Italian 
gowns and have opted for 14th century stuff since it's easier for me to 
manage. My hair is much shorter now (it started falling out 4 months after 
my hospital stay); it's been years since it's been this short and I can't do

a thing with it! :-)

Most of the stuff that I've made recently is made of linen, linen/silk 
blend, wool, wool/silk blend. None of my modern clothing comes even close.

kate 




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb 25 06:48:11 2006
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From: "Kate Cole" <mrscakehole@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Taschen books
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I've got the Fashion book, then saw the two-volume set on special offer (I 
think it was 9.99 GBP) at Borders. Despite the fantastic price, I flipped 
through it and saw only a couple of extra pictures that weren't in the 
Fashion book and decided it wasn't worth having both. But of the two, I 
think the two-volume set may be slightly bigger.

I don't see how Borders could sell the two volumes separately as they are 
packed together in a box cover - they probably only list it as the first 
volume for some computer-related reason. But unless they're going to send 
you a box cover with only one book in it, which would be very peculiar 
indeed, I'd bet it's both. Plus, the whole thing was shrink-wrapped in 
Borders - I had to hunt round the whole shop to find one that was open so I 
could look at it.

Hope this helps,

Kate


>Message: 10
>Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 22:03:46 -0500
>From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Fashion book - any difference between
>	editions?
>To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>Message-ID:
>	<7d21ac190602241903v78ced09ap1697b119ff18b4f@mail.gmail.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
>This may have been covered before, but just in case:
>
>Is there any real difference between this edition of the Kyoto Costume
>Institute's "Fashion":
><http://www.taschen.com/pages/en/catalogue/books/design/all/facts/01839.htm>
>
>And the two volume in a slipcase edition?:
><http://www.taschen.com/pages/en/catalogue/books/design/all/facts/04401.htm>
>
>I ask because I've had the former on order with Borders.com for over
>two months and it doesn't look like they'll be able to get it. The
>first volume of the second edition is listed, but no mention is made
>at the Border's site that it includes both volumes. Please advise.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Allison T.
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:patterns


> It really depends.  Some designer clothing just caters to the desire to 
> have something "different" without being better quality. Like rib T-shirts 
> or tank tops or camisoles or henleys with a little lace sewn on here and 
> there. Anyone can dye a cotton knit shirt from Dharma and add interesting 
> trims, cheaper.  (I've been doing a lot of that.)

I have *plans* for this summer. They involve white fabric (both knit and 
woven), an order from Dharma Trading, and the embroidery function on my new 
sewing machine...heh heh heh....

Dianne 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns
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At 11:44 25/02/2006, you wrote:
>         I seem to be the square peg here. ;-) It is because of the hours it
>took to create quality historical clothing that made me into a textile snob.
>I detest shopping in retail stores because the quality of the textiles and
>manufacture is just wrong, ugly, shoddy. When I'm pressed for time and am
>desperate to replace a garment I cave and shop retail. But mostly I try to
>make my own garments using the same standards I do for historical garments.
>
>         The fabrics I choose are mostly natural fibre, all French or
>flat-fell seamed. Everything is custom fitted. (No one hour Simplicity Jiffy
>patterns for me). As a result of that and the care I give those garments, I
>find they last a very long time. In fact, I have a cotton velveteen tunic
>with mabee pearl buttons I made ten years ago which is still fashionable,
>and still standing up very well. Just last year I had to retire a blue silk
>noile hand-embroidered shirt I'd worn fairly steadily for about eight years,
>and a gorgeous black silk noile tunic.
>
>         Even the casual garments I wear are made with the same care, and as
>a result stand the test of time. I figure it's money and time well invested.


If I am making clothes for me, I am not making clothes for customers. 
As a professional costumer, this is not good. Also I hate making 
modern clothes for myself (not fond of making *any* clothes for 
myself.) Instead of spending time making clothes for myself, I could 
be making a corset, for example. I am still wearing t-shirts I bought 
in 1989 in Florida for $5.00 so why waste time making for myself.

In fact one year, I was so pushed for time, I paid one of the ladies 
who occasionally sews for me to make my holiday wardrobe, while I 
sewed 800 peacock feathers on a cloak. (I couldn't afford to pay her 
for the time it would have taken her to sew on the feathers - I could 
afford to pay for the time to make a shirt.)

Suzi (who really doesn't enjoy the making up bit of costuming) 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb 25 08:34:10 2006
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Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 07:33:18 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
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Status: RO

Yeh, I promised myself for years too, then a friend told me about 
librarything. So I'm slowly going through my library and writing the ISBN 
numbers on a pad for 20 -30 books at a time, shelf by shelf. With all the 
resources that Librarything can access, it's really not too bad. The books 
without ISBN do take a little bit longer, but I still rarely have to enter 
all the info.

Beth

>Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 17:24:29 -0800
>From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
>
>Not yet.  I've been telling myself for years that I need to do
>something like this.  But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership
>:-D.  Thanks for sharing the site.

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Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 13:46:44 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
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At 13:33 25/02/2006, you wrote:
>Yeh, I promised myself for years too, then a friend told me about 
>librarything. So I'm slowly going through my library and writing the 
>ISBN numbers on a pad for 20 -30 books at a time, shelf by shelf. 
>With all the resources that Librarything can access, it's really not 
>too bad. The books without ISBN do take a little bit longer, but I 
>still rarely have to enter all the info.
>
>Beth
>
>>Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 17:24:29 -0800
>>From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
>>
>>Not yet.  I've been telling myself for years that I need to do
>>something like this.  But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership
>>:-D.  Thanks for sharing the site.


Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm 
afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom. 
I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list 
them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)

suzi


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb 25 09:57:55 2006
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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire
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Hello, again.

I've been lurking for the past couple of months and
wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list
participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing
what I want to do I wonder how you got there.

Makes me wish for a time machine so I could go back 30
years and slap the college counselor who told me
costume wasn't a career - I should be a secretary or
social worker.

Any words of wisdom?

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 10:23:44 -0500
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<<I am still wearing t-shirts I bought in 1989 in Florida for $5.00 so 
why waste time making for myself.>>

Sounds like me, except that the t-shirts were free.  Given for being a 
volunteer at one horse event or another.   If only the volunteers 
received sweats, my wardrobe would be complete.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour
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Heck, fifty years ago I didn't even have a counselor.  Women were supposed to be secretaries or teachers.  I did both and was a good teacher, and secretary when I did that, but never happy in either field.  Luckily, I found other outlets as I grew older.  

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 06:57:18 -0800 (PST)
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

Hello, again.

I've been lurking for the past couple of months and
wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list
participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing
what I want to do I wonder how you got there.

Makes me wish for a time machine so I could go back 30
years and slap the college counselor who told me
costume wasn't a career - I should be a secretary or
social worker.

Any words of wisdom?

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Does anyone know when "French" seams were introduced? I haven't been able 
to find an existing example in the SCA period (prior to 1600).

Thanks.
Beth

>Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 06:44:09 -0500
>From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
><snip>
>         The fabrics I choose are mostly natural fibre, all French or
>flat-fell seamed.
><snip>
>Regards,
>Lorina
>Five Rivers Chapmanry

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From: Edith Reardon <edithreardon@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
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I posted the site long time ago but still have most of my books in storage.  Need a lifetime membership too!  I would love to get more info on books that should be in my library.  I bought 30 weaving books for different looms and styles so I think I have enough.  I need to go thru my books and get rid of some I'm not very happy with.  Bought 6 new book cases with a 5 yr. guarantee at a great price but still need more. Heard that books against an outside wall are great insulation, just have to convince my husband I am saving him money in the long run.  
   
  Brin Kendall

Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
  At 05:05 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything.
>
>You can see the Costume books (103 titles) at:
>http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=costume&view=Castlegrounds
>
>Textiles (113 titles) at:
>http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=textiles&view=Castlegrounds
>
>Archaeology (108 titles) at:
>http://www.librarything.com/catalog.php?tag=archaeology&view=Castlegrounds
>
>I only have a little over 400 books listed so far... still lots to go.
>
>Anyone else doing this?
>
>Beth Matney

Not yet. I've been telling myself for years that I need to do 
something like this. But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership 
:-D. Thanks for sharing the site.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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The point is that some of us who buy way more books than we should, have so many different subjects that a catalog (or a well organized library)is pretty much necessary.  I had all of my books except costume and cooking in one room before I moved.  Wall to wall, floor to ceiling bookshelves built by me and filled with books in different catagories.  In this place, there isn't room to build a library and I must get my books out of boxes.  I didn't know about these organizers before, but am sure as heck going to get one of them now.  I can catalog as I unpack and some day I might be organized (yeah, right).  Thanks for the info!!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 13:46:44 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] books

At 13:33 25/02/2006, you wrote:
>Yeh, I promised myself for years too, then a friend told me about 
>librarything. So I'm slowly going through my library and writing the 
>ISBN numbers on a pad for 20 -30 books at a time, shelf by shelf. 
>With all the resources that Librarything can access, it's really not 
>too bad. The books without ISBN do take a little bit longer, but I 
>still rarely have to enter all the info.
>
>Beth
>
>>Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 17:24:29 -0800
>>From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
>>
>>Not yet.  I've been telling myself for years that I need to do
>>something like this.  But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership
>>:-D.  Thanks for sharing the site.


Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm 
afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom. 
I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list 
them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)

suzi


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I do it for three reasons:
1) I've got so many (thousands), that I found I was getting some duplicates 
by accident.
2) I need an inventory for insurance purposes.
3) to find others with similar interests.

With the "tags", it also helps with organization... so I can find a 
particular book again! Most systems were just too cumbersome and slow.. you 
have to enter ALL the info by hand.. that I kept putting it off.

Beth

At 08:57 AM 2/25/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 13:46:44 +0000
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
>
>Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm
>afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom.
>I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list
>them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)
>
>suzi

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Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm
afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom.
I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list
them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)

suzi
Two reasons for listing books:
1.  So when people ask you where you got your info, you don't have to type
it all out each time.
2.  So you can keep track of books you've loaned out.  I still want to know
who borrowed to my little pink book on making tutus.  Are you out there????

Martha





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It comes in handy if you want to share your books with a friend they can just browse through them on this site. Might help me remember which books I have loaned out too.  I also have to start worrying about extra insurance for my books.  I should start looking up the current prices on some of them to get an idea of the value of my collection. It will be hard to figure out the value of some of the out of print books.  That is a great plan to do 20 to 30 at a time,   
   
  Brin Kendall

Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
  At 13:33 25/02/2006, you wrote:
>Yeh, I promised myself for years too, then a friend told me about 
>librarything. So I'm slowly going through my library and writing the 
>ISBN numbers on a pad for 20 -30 books at a time, shelf by shelf. 
>With all the resources that Librarything can access, it's really not 
>too bad. The books without ISBN do take a little bit longer, but I 
>still rarely have to enter all the info.
>
>Beth
>
>>Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 17:24:29 -0800
>>From: Joan Jurancich 
>>
>>Not yet. I've been telling myself for years that I need to do
>>something like this. But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership
>>:-D. Thanks for sharing the site.


Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm 
afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom. 
I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list 
them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)

suzi



		
---------------------------------
Find your next car at Yahoo! Canada Autos
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire-careers
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 10:58:00 -0500
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Status: RO

40 years ago, the options were still- teacher or secretary.  I was told 
I was "too smart" to be a secretary, so I became a teacher.  We've HAVE 
come a long way, haven't we?!?!?

I was a classroom science teacher (as opposed to "moving up" into 
administration). I was knee-deep in kids / teenagers all day, for 30 
years.  It was good, but it was also time for a change.  I was able to 
retire early and now I am able to pursue any and all whims.  On my own 
schedule-no bells!

Someone in this group has the signature line "It's never too late to be 
the person you could have been"  Amen to that!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 25, 2006, at 10:25 AM, Lalah wrote:

> Heck, fifty years ago I didn't even have a counselor.  Women were 
> supposed to be secretaries or teachers.  I did both and was a good 
> teacher, and secretary when I did that, but never happy in either 
> field.  Luckily, I found other outlets as I grew older.
>
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>
> --- REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
> Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 06:57:18 -0800 (PST)
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire
>
> Hello, again.
>
> I've been lurking for the past couple of months and
> wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list
> participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing
> what I want to do I wonder how you got there.
>
> Makes me wish for a time machine so I could go back 30
> years and slap the college counselor who told me
> costume wasn't a career - I should be a secretary or
> social worker.
>
> Any words of wisdom?
>
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Netscape. just the net you need
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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At 15:38 25/02/2006, you wrote:


>Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm
>afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom.
>I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list
>them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)
>
>suzi
>Two reasons for listing books:
>1.  So when people ask you where you got your info, you don't have to type
>it all out each time.

Ah, but I only do that with friends/colleagues, so that isn't a major problem.

>2.  So you can keep track of books you've loaned out.  I still want to know
>who borrowed to my little pink book on making tutus.  Are you out there????

I stopped loaning out books when I realised that I had loaned the 
third copy of my favourite sci-fi book, and had to buy a fourth when 
it didn't come back that time either!

Suzi 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
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At 15:36 25/02/2006, you wrote:
>I do it for three reasons:
>1) I've got so many (thousands), that I found I was getting some 
>duplicates by accident.
>2) I need an inventory for insurance purposes.
>3) to find others with similar interests.

I have thousands of books too, at least 400 of which are costume related.

I don't need an insurance inventory, fortunately!

I already know lots of people with similar interests, and don't have 
time to keep up with them all.


>With the "tags", it also helps with organization... so I can find a 
>particular book again! Most systems were just too cumbersome and 
>slow.. you have to enter ALL the info by hand.. that I kept putting it off.

Maybe I'm lucky? I already file in types/kinds, like factual 
reference/sci fi.classics/ historical fiction etc., and authors and 
dates, and my costume related books are in my work room, so I never 
have trouble finding a book, unless I haven't put it back where it belongs.

>Beth
>
>>Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm
>>afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom.
>>I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list
>>them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)
>>
>>suzi


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I've only been on it 2 or 3 days and have filled my limit of 200 books. So
if someone has say 8,000 books (as some people up there do!!) I'd hate to
try and keep track of them in a notebook. I want to know where they are I
want to know what I have.  I'm hoping they add a "lent" feature and that
sort of thing. I can also print out the list of what's on my shelves and I
can put that into a binder and put it on my shelves. I have nearly 1,000
books (and I add to it all the time) and this is one way of keeping them
together. As for time, I do the ISBNs between answering e-mails from all the
costuming lists or at night.
B~


>
> Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm
> afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom.
> I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list
> them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)
>
> suzi
>
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In a message dated 2/25/2006 11:01:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

I  stopped loaning out books when I realised that I had loaned the 
third copy  of my favourite sci-fi book, and had to buy a fourth when 
it didn't come  back that time either!



I don't loan books out, either.  Too many irreplaceable, out of print  books 
that I couldn't buy another of if I wanted to!  People are welcome to  look at 
them in my presence.
 
Ann Wass
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From: Edith Reardon <edithreardon@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
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Sounds like an interesting program as I hate buying the same book twice.  Hard to do? not really as often an author will put out a book under a different name with other publishers.
   
  Edith
   
  Brin Kendall

Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
  At 05:05 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything.
>
>>
>Anyone else doing this?

Hi Beth,

I've been slowly cataloging my books on a software called Book Collector.
http://www.collectorz.com/book/
I have found the program to be very helpful, very detailed, and what I need 
for me. I can even transfer the data to my Palm, which is helpful when I am 
out shopping. I will be uploading a book review page to my personal web 
site, that takes it's info from the same program.

Each their own I guess... it's just finding the time to enter every book I 
own, so I try for a little at a time.

Kimiko



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Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 11:29:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Corded corset Shrinkage?
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Allison,
I have made a corded corset and no, it won't shrink
dramatically. Even if it does, it will stretch back
out again once under tension. Mine is made from cotton
corset coutil and linen tabby lining with hemp cording
and garment weight leather binding. I find after
wearing it for a couple of hours, I wish I could
tighten it a little, but being a front laced, I can't.
Highly absorbent garment however...

Kathy

> Does anyone have any experience with possible
> shrinkage? The site
> mentions no exact numbers and that it's highly
> variable by fabric
> type. I'm planning on making the "corseted" part out
> of cotton canvas.

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
__________________________________________________________ 
Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
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From: "Bonnie Booker" <aspasia1@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redwork
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On 2/23/06, Carletta da Nicolosi <carletta_nicolosi@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Out of curiosity and basically ignorance on this style of embroidery, what
> is the earliest documentable date redwork was used on garments?  It is
> stunning!


I teach Blackwork...which includes Redwork and other Monochrome embroidery.
I have found photos from the 16th century from the Hardwick collection at
http://costume.dm.net/blackwork/portraits/hardwickphoto.jpg and others at
http://costume.dm.net/blackwork/portraits/jesus.jpg and
http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/moroni/moroni2.jpg

--
> Aspasia Moonwind
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]was  Re:patterns now clothing and shoes
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I have found myself with a very small wardrobe, both in garb and in 
mundanes. I used to be one of those fashionistas, with a large wardrobe and 
shoes to match, until I went to school.

The clothes took a beating, shoes even worse!  I find it very difficult to 
buy clothes off the rack, as I'm now that perfect in between size...neither 
the regular sized nor the plused sizes fit.  I live in men's jeans and 
ladies tee shirts.  Getting dressed to go out is a nightmare!
Shoes are a problem, because as a cutter, I am on my feet all day. I could 
never wear sneakers, my feet can't stand to be contained.  So *when* I do 
find shoes that fit, I have them resoled three or four times before they are 
finally for the bin.

I hate this 'throw away' mentality. That, and I'm no longer a fan of 
fashion.  Funny coming from a person in the clothing business eh? Now that 
I'm cutting for history only, no more modern stuff, I can see the 
practicality of clothing from past times.  It's no wonder why we have so 
much vintage clothing, it was constructed much better! I doubt that we will 
have much left from the past decade even twenty years from now.

Kelly



> Wow,
>
>   This sounds familiar!  I have more shoes than any other man I know. 
> Most of them cost at least $100, but none of those are suitable for daily 
> wear! My regular shoes are cheap and I wear them untill I just can't get 
> away with it anymore.  Sometimes beyond that.  Ron Carnegie
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Jealousy, envy & Desired Careers (Long)
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Status: RO

That would be me. :-)

I think I am on the other end of the same journey as
the original poster. That is why that quote means so
much to me.
I have always been creative to the point of excess.
But having had an learning disability that I didn't
learn how to function with until I was nearly out of
school, it always held me back from what I really
wanted to do. Frankly, I didn't realise what it was
until these past couple of years. I knew it was to be
creative (I had plans on going into tech theatre
program ay Ryerson and working my wany into the
[Canadian] budding market of special effects makeup),
I had all the contacts and opportunities before me,
but I was engaged to someone much older than I when I
graduated highschool. He didn't want me to be hung up
in university, getting myself in debt, or being
anything that might have proven useful or profitable.
Frankly, he wanted a baby machine and house slave. His
exact words have been burned into my memory "You'll
never go anywhere with that, it's a waste of time. Why
don't you go for secretary or something?" This guy
said he loved me. Funny, that. It took him 3 years
after I broke up with him to realise his mistakes, and
by then it was too late. It was also too late for me
to pursue that avenue. Thus I ended up in business
accounting, which was ironic relative to my learning
disability dyscalculia- an inability to function with
numbers. It was that inability to function that held
me back from applying to university; my grades in math
were horrendous despite all my other grades being in
the upper 70-100. They would have thrown my
application out without even bothering to look deeper.
I had learned to function with this just fine my
senior year of highschool; I understand how my brain
works and I pick up numbers almost as fast as anyone
else.
All my skills have been the same from the beginning
but applied in lateral ways, thus not giving me the
satisfaction I have always been searching for. I have
never had a job that I loved so much that it got me
out of bed every morning. I did what I had to do to
get the bills paid. A friend had said to me that I
have put my time in (I am 35 years old and have held
18 jobs in my life, working since the age of 14 and
many times, held up to 3 of those jobs down at the
same time. I haven't worked for 6 years), the
opportunity exists to take a break from it - why not
grab it and enjoy life for a while? So I did. It put
me on a path that is only defining itself now. 
I was for a while, devolving as a person during that
break. The powers-that-be said "nope, this is not
where you are supposed to be heading, we're gonna
throw something at you that will smarten you up and
put you back on you path." I had a child, who is also
further defining the person I am meant to be - and of
course, put me back on my path. 
I have always sewn, drawn, sculpted... I prefer the
complex things because I like the challenge of putting
my skills to the test. Someone gave me a magazine and
a nightie pattern then said "you know, I am not really
into this french heirloom stuff. maybe you'll be into
it. Take this these."  And I did. And it was good.
That spawned into Victorian costuming passion that has
produced a closet load of garments hanging in stasis.
Since the Vic reenactment is not a strong theme in
this region, that passion died bitterly in the cradle.
It also caused a long standing consternation between
my husband and I; he resents my passion for creating
beautiful things. But because I love it so much, I am
willing to go to war with him whenever I dig into
another project. He is the sort of reason for my other
quote in my sig. *He* may not appreciate what I do,
nor take it seriously or think it worthy, but dammit,
I know I am not the only one out there that shares the
love for beautiful things and how they are made. 
Well, now I am being taken seriously by large
institutions regarding my current research. This
revived that dead ember of passion into something that
I have secure faith will go somewhere. My husband
thinks I should be paid vast amounts and awed
(*shudder* closer to feared for the insane things I
get myself into), but I know that there is more
passion than cash in this chosen field. But again, I
am willing to defend what I love enough to become the
person I am meant to be. 
It's funny that everyone mentions that they put little
or no effort into what they wear every day. I too am
the same. I consider my every day clothes functional
necessities. I rarely if ever find a trend that works
for both my sense of style and body type, so, why put
the effort into it? But when I wear my kits... I am
thoroughly empowered. The repression mask comes off
and I am more the person I really am, perhaps in some
cases more magnified. But I have less regret and more
certainty while wearing something that makes me feel
like me. I am a bundle of nerves and quite uncertain
of myself any other day. I believe I was born many
years too late. :-)

Sorry for the prattle.

Kathy
 
> Someone in this group has the signature line "It's
> never too late to be 
> the person you could have been"  Amen to that!

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redwork
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Quoting Bonnie Booker <aspasia1@gmail.com>:

> On 2/23/06, Carletta da Nicolosi <carletta_nicolosi@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> Out of curiosity and basically ignorance on this style of embroidery, what
>> is the earliest documentable date redwork was used on garments?  It is
>> stunning!
>
>
> I teach Blackwork...which includes Redwork and other Monochrome embroidery.
> I have found photos from the 16th century from the Hardwick collection at
> http://costume.dm.net/blackwork/portraits/hardwickphoto.jpg and others at
> http://costume.dm.net/blackwork/portraits/jesus.jpg and

Mistress Aspasia, do you (or anybody else for that matter) know more
about the painting that this detail is from?

Thanks,
Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:31:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for a magazine
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It is possible to get an older BURDA magazine which is not older than 2 years here: burdamode@burdadirect.de , but that wouldn't help you - but you could at least try it. They get all older versions back so they could maybe have some. 
  Else I would suggest you to make an advertisement, that usually works. I'm sure I could get a czech version of it, but you wouldn't understand a word, it could be only helpful for the patterns:-))
   
  Zuzana 
   
  Appin1@aol.com wrote:
  I'm trying to track down a European sewing magazine for a friend. Does anyone 
know where I can get a copy of the November 2001 Burda Magazine (prefereable 
in English)?

Thanks.

Kathleen Norvell
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not sure if anybody else has already said this (sorry if so), but "redwork" 
comes under the heading of what was known as Spanish work, which is basically 
blackwork, done in colours other than black (in this case red, obv.)

debs
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
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<--- Irmgart <irmgart@gmail.com> wrote:
<snip
<Until we joined the SCA, my husand didn't really wear anything other than
<plain black jeans and tshirts, black, grey and dark green sweaters, and
<occasionally BDUs of various colors (mostly black, olive and olive camo).
<

I *swear* that my husband owns every single black t-shirt in Brisbane.

When his Lordship and I first started going out, I'd see something nice - a piece of furniture or home decor stuff - and his Lordship would say, 'Yes, if it was black.' !!!!!

One day, I am going to get him the ( black, of course! ) t-shirt that has 'I'm only wearing black until they invent a darker colour'.

Of course, his re-enactment gear is an entirely different matter - his first 17thC outfit had a burgundy/purple doublet, with gold satin breeches. :-) He keeps changing his mind about what colour he wants for his new outfit, first it was going to be crimson, then blue, then.....

Joannah
  
~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~



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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire
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Hi Rebecca,
The program I went through at Dalhousie University in Halifax NS Canada, is 
a two year Diploma or a you can now go for a full degree program. (I'm 
heading back this Fall, to complete the degree, while I teach in the Dip 
program)

The Diploma is all you really *need*  if you want that little piece of 
paper, and the two years cover everything you would need to learn to make 
historical costume.  The program is geared to historical and theatrical 
costume. The degree program has extra classes as per a regular degree (soc, 
theatre history, electives...) and is geared to those wanting to further 
their academic careers.

The career, as in a lot of life, is a lot of hard work.  You will always be 
looking for that next job or contract. The hours are long and the money not 
so much there!  You really have to love what you are doing to work in the 
field for very long, the burn out rate is extremely high.

I have been working for 15 years, though, and this past year has been my 
best and most inspired!  I hope for another 15 just like it!  I am lucky 
though, in that my family supports me in my art, both financially and 
spiritually.  Pierre is my Gibralter, Mum is my lighthouse.

Kelly

> Hello, again.
>
> I've been lurking for the past couple of months and
> wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list
> participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing
> what I want to do I wonder how you got there.
> Any words of wisdom?
>
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> _______________________________________________
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>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Netscape. just the net you need
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire 
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In a message dated 2/25/06 2:58:49 PM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Makes me wish for a time machine so I could go back 30
> years and slap the college counselor who told me
> costume wasn't a career - I should be a secretary or
> social worker.

Know that feeling - when I wanted to be a vet (a long time ago, and before I 
realised I'd be too sentimental), my careers advisor said I should be a lab 
technician.  Cos the two are so similar!!!

I'm not surte of any bios, other than possibly on individuals' own websites, 
but personally I deided I wanted to costume, and went out and did it.  Made a 
few, then advertised, and made some more and it went on from there (was v. 
hard at first when I was working full time in an office, and costuming full time 
in the evenings and at weekends, and then when first went full time when I had 
to work some incredibly long hours to meet deadlines), but it worked, and I 
quit the day job to costume full time.

And that was that!

Debbie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
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I'd recommend some sort of list, even if not strictly a catalogue.

A while back we had some pipes leak and the ceiling come down - right on top 
of one of NIge's most expesive shelves of books.

Fortunately, the insurers paid out when we sent them three independant quotes 
that more or les tallied regarding the value - but if we hadn't already 
listed tem, it may have been tough just to remember what had turned to a big pile 
of sooty pile of mush, (the chimney then fell in on itself, scattering 
blackness everywhere).

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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> 
> 
> I have thousands of books too, at least 400 of which are costume related.

I also have thousands, and over 1,000 costume related.

> 
> I don't need an insurance inventory, fortunately!

Well, everybody might need to claim insurance some day. My in-laws' 
house burned down in the firestorm in the East Bay some years ago, and 
it turned out their policy required listing every single item they 
wanted to claim, down to the skillets and the towels--along with current 
values. I'm well aware how much work that is, because I did most of it. 
  And they had no collector instincts whatever--that house was like 
something out of a magazine, it looked like no one even lived in it. 
(Fortunately, they used the insurance money to build an even fancier 
house that looks like no one lives in it.)

However, the quick way to document your book collection--assuming you 
have it on shelves or otherwise visible--is to pan a video camera over 
it.  That way you can at least prove to the insurance company that you 
did own these books. If your house burns down or whatever, then you can 
look up the current values on the net.

> 
> I already know lots of people with similar interests, and don't have 
> time to keep up with them all.

True, but it's heartwarming to see a lot of people get together because 
they love books.

> 
> 
>> With the "tags", it also helps with organization... so I can find a 
>> particular book again! Most systems were just too cumbersome and 
>> slow.. you have to enter ALL the info by hand.. that I kept putting it 
>> off.


The Librarything system is easy, because you can just click on something 
to add it.  However, I don't want any of my data stored on someone 
else's machine, and therefore be dependent on their backup system, site 
availability, continued existence, etc.

We have Microsoft Access, and it would be easy to build a little 
cataloging application for it. (My husband is a programmer, and he built 
the databases for our publishing business on access.)  We just have not 
gotten around to it. Entering all this stuff in any system is so much 
work, when there is so much else to do. But it would keep me from buying 
duplicates of books I already have, which I do on occasion.

> 
> 
> Maybe I'm lucky? I already file in types/kinds, like factual 
> reference/sci fi.classics/ historical fiction etc., and authors and 
> dates, and my costume related books are in my work room, so I never have 
> trouble finding a book, unless I haven't put it back where it belongs.

Those were the days, when I had enough shelf space for that. Now about 
half my books are in stacks all over the floors in every room.  They're 
sort of categorized, but no way can I keep them all alphabetized by 
author name and so on.  Luckily I'm good at remembering titles, author 
names, and approximately where things are.

As for lending out books, I learned long ago that lending someone 
something is tatamount to kissing it goodbye.  I don't bring people in 
for viewings either--not since that time years ago when someone took the 
opportunity to steal some of my books and then brag to other people 
about how clever she was to have done it.  Smuggled them out under a 
long cape--it's not like I strip search guests before they leave.

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 10:03:38 -0800
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Well, the other question is whether or not you can make a family-wage career out of it.  I've done custom costuming from home for more than 10 years.  While the extra money is nice, it will never, ever be enough to support me completely.  

Now, the University of Rhode Island had a lovely masters' program in textile conservation that I would have been all over in a shot--were it not for the fact that I live in Washington State and want to continue to live in Washington State.  3,000 miles is a bit too long to commute....

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message ----- 

  From: Lalah<mailto:lalahcatlady@netscape.com> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 7:25 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire


  Heck, fifty years ago I didn't even have a counselor.  Women were supposed to be secretaries or teachers.  I did both and was a good teacher, and secretary when I did that, but never happy in either field.  Luckily, I found other outlets as I grew older.  

  Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


  --- REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net<mailto:ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:

  From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net<mailto:ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>>
  Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 06:57:18 -0800 (PST)
  To: h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  Subject: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

  Hello, again.

  I've been lurking for the past couple of months and
  wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list
  participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing
  what I want to do I wonder how you got there.

  Makes me wish for a time machine so I could go back 30
  years and slap the college counselor who told me
  costume wasn't a career - I should be a secretary or
  social worker.

  Any words of wisdom?

  Rebecca Burch
  Center Valley Farm
  Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
  _______________________________________________
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  _____________________________________________________________
  Netscape. just the net you need
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]was  Re:patterns now clothing and shoes
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<<On Feb 25, 2006, at 11:57 AM, kelly grant wrote:
Getting dressed to go out is a nightmare!>>

Amen!  I always ask if I should wear "Period Attire".  It is so much 
easier to "dress".

Can we start a Fashion Trend, wearing our chosen Period clothing day to 
day?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns
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Lorina,

Thank you. You are in some ways what I am hoping to do with me. I, too, 
have become a textile and fit snob. I look around at the mall, and at 
myself, and hate the one size fits no-one mentality I see. I love natural 
fibers, and quality garments, and that's what I am slowly working on doing 
for myself. I don't buy garments that often, and wear them for years until 
they wear out, which makes for some sad looking t-shirt in my closet right 
now. Sadly, if I were to purge my closet of things that are outworn, or 
doesn't fit, I might have just a couple of shirts, and only one pair of 
pants. Very sad.

That does it... I am taking my personal stand to make the time to make my 
own garments. I've got the skills, so I may as well use them to benefit me, 
and not just for historical garb. ... And I just realized why my Mom sewed 
many of her own garments. She was petite, 5'0" and a 100 pounds sopping 
wet. She had to make her own in the years before petite sizing. And in 
realizing this, how much like my Mom I'm becoming, it makes me smile.

Kimiko



At 03:44 AM 2/25/2006, you wrote:
>         I seem to be the square peg here. ;-) It is because of the hours it
>took to create quality historical clothing that made me into a textile snob.
>I detest shopping in retail stores because the quality of the textiles and
>manufacture is just wrong, ugly, shoddy. When I'm pressed for time and am
>desperate to replace a garment I cave and shop retail. But mostly I try to
>make my own garments using the same standards I do for historical garments.
>
>         The fabrics I choose are mostly natural fibre, all French or
>flat-fell seamed. Everything is custom fitted. (No one hour Simplicity Jiffy
>patterns for me). As a result of that and the care I give those garments, I
>find they last a very long time. In fact, I have a cotton velveteen tunic
>with mabee pearl buttons I made ten years ago which is still fashionable,
>and still standing up very well. Just last year I had to retire a blue silk
>noile hand-embroidered shirt I'd worn fairly steadily for about eight years,
>and a gorgeous black silk noile tunic.
>
>         Even the casual garments I wear are made with the same care, and as
>a result stand the test of time. I figure it's money and time well invested.
>
>Regards,
>Lorina
>Five Rivers Chapmanry
>purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
>re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

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At 08:43 PM 2/24/2006, you wrote:
>People often dont recognize me out of costume because I dress well in 
>period, but shabbily out!  I actually have just started spending some 
>money to amend that, but it is money that I have been forced to spend out 
>of embarrassment.
>
>I wonder how common this is on this list?
>
>Ron Carnegie


That's me as well. And I don't have that many period garments, or even 
mundane garments. It's just that I put more thought and effort into my 
period garb than the everyday sweats that I often wear (I am a SAHM now, so 
I don't do office wear anymore). However, I, too, am changing that 
perspective, and am designing and slowly creating my own regular mundane 
wear for everyday use. I just have to work at it, because I am not a 
fashion maven... never have been, never will be. But I want clothes that 
fit me, look good on me (is that I look good in?), and that reflects who I 
really am. I am tired of looking like a slob in clothes that don't fit off 
the rack, and yet that's the current "fashion" no matter the actual style.

The hardest part for me was trying to decide what basic style I really 
like... dramatic, or casual, classic, or modern. I've decided I am a 
dramatic casual, with a classic (read as historic) bend. I want clothes 
that are comfortable, easy to wear, but has something of a dramatic punch 
somewhere on it. I just need to figure out which part of historical wear I 
can incorporate, because farthingales are just a bit bulky to wear on a 
regular basis.  ;-)

Kimiko


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Corded corset Shrinkage?
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 12:32:56 -0600
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I made one like that- except linen/cotton blend both sides and bias tape
instead of leather binding- I call it my "sports corset"!)(great for hot
days and very washable!) Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kathy Page
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 10:30 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Corded corset Shrinkage?

Allison,
I have made a corded corset and no, it won't shrink
dramatically. Even if it does, it will stretch back
out again once under tension. Mine is made from cotton
corset coutil and linen tabby lining with hemp cording
and garment weight leather binding. I find after
wearing it for a couple of hours, I wish I could
tighten it a little, but being a front laced, I can't.
Highly absorbent garment however...

Kathy

> Does anyone have any experience with possible
> shrinkage? The site
> mentions no exact numbers and that it's highly
> variable by fabric
> type. I'm planning on making the "corseted" part out
> of cotton canvas.

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It's never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there
is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to
receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 13:39:47 -0500
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Status: RO

I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: " People wear 
black because it reflects the mood of the times."

Is that why we can free ourselves to wear color when we step into our 
chosen time period?  We enjoy the Period and "forget" that all time 
periods had their problems?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 25, 2006, at 12:40 PM, Joannah Hansen wrote:

> <--- Irmgart <irmgart@gmail.com> wrote:
> <snip
> <Until we joined the SCA, my husand didn't really wear anything other 
> than
> <plain black jeans and tshirts, black, grey and dark green sweaters, 
> and
> <occasionally BDUs of various colors (mostly black, olive and olive 
> camo).
> <
>
> I *swear* that my husband owns every single black t-shirt in Brisbane.
>
> When his Lordship and I first started going out, I'd see something 
> nice - a piece of furniture or home decor stuff - and his Lordship 
> would say, 'Yes, if it was black.' !!!!!
>
> One day, I am going to get him the ( black, of course! ) t-shirt that 
> has 'I'm only wearing black until they invent a darker colour'.
>
> Of course, his re-enactment gear is an entirely different matter - his 
> first 17thC outfit had a burgundy/purple doublet, with gold satin 
> breeches. :-) He keeps changing his mind about what colour he wants 
> for his new outfit, first it was going to be crimson, then blue, 
> then.....
>
> Joannah
>
> ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community!
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 13:41:02 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT Smoking
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This is a sad thread.

My mom was given 6 months when they FINALLY diagnosed the anal lesion that
she had as 3rd stage cancer. It was diagnosed because the lesion contained
LUNG cells... which means the primary site was in her lungs --- All due to
smoking  from the time she was a teenager.

She was active and a beautiful woman who had been a professional ballerina
and actress in her youth , before her marriage to my Dad at age 23.

It was awful to watch the disease progress to the point that she had skin
cancer, lung cancer, spinal cancer, liver cancer, pelvic cancer--- you name
it . She lost her hair and her eyesight to chemo. Maybe it was a blessing--
at least she didn't have to see the fist size black spots all over her body
that was skin cancer. She was in terrible pain and she was not only given
oral morphine, but the morpine patch, which had to be moved periodicallu to
a new spot that had not been used before. It became a major problem quickly
because she had so many skin lesions that they were running out of places to
place the patch.

BTW-- she only lasted 4 months after the diagnosis. I considered it a
blessing.

I wish we who have see this could explain to smokers, who all think they are
immortal...


Monica Spence (Catriona MacDuff in the SCA)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kimiko Small
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 6:04 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT Smoking


At 08:13 PM 2/23/2006, you wrote:
>My father passed away after fighting emphysema for about 7 years.  It was a
>mercy because he was bright and alert right up until the end.  He just was
>slowly drowning because of 45-50 years of smoking.  Every time I see
someone
>light up I want to beat them!  It's not that the death is so bad - it's the
>dying.  Way too often it is long and agonizing for everyone involved!
>
>Wanda


I agree with you Wanda.

My husband wants to have a commercial of a young person lighting up, saying
"it's my choice, if I die, it will only affect me." Then show that person
grow older, and how as they go through life; falling in love, getting
married, having kids, then young grandkids. A progression until they die
relatively early in life of cancer or other smoking related illness and
show the grief of those they leave behind. The idea is to show how smoking
affects their whole family, not just their personal bodies.

I know we all die sometime of something. But I know in my Mom's case, she
was in excellent health otherwise. No history of anything, ate right,
exercised, everything good she could do, except she smoked from the age of
16 till she died a couple of months past her 73rd birthday, with only a few
years where she had quit. She was given smokes from an American military
man sometime after the bombing in Japan. As a Japanese woman, she had a
life expectancy of her 80s or higher. She left knowing she wouldn't see her
the grand daughter she had waited her whole life to hold. But thankfully,
she is no longer in the intense pain she had from the cancer, which had
spread to her bones in her spine and beyond.

Kimiko

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Quoting monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>:

> This is a sad thread.
>

*snippage*

> I wish we who have see this could explain to smokers, who all think they are
> immortal...

I think that there must be a certain amount of "teenager" (aka "that
won't happen to me" mentality) inside every smoker; there's also the
addictive nature of nicotine at work.  My dad, thank You, Lord, is
still healthy after having smoked on and off and on and off and ... for
more years than I can remember.  Daddy *knows* -- he was a medical
products salesman; I can remember him talking about one of his doctors
having a pickled smokers lung in a jar on his desk -- ugly and
shriveled and black, but it never motivated him to stop.  At least my
mother won't let him smoke inside the house.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 13:58:55 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire
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Back in the dark ages, when I went to college in 1970, my counselor
recommended an all girls school (Seton Hill College) -- known as a place
"Where women lead". It was the only place I applied to and got accepted as
an early decision candidate. It was one of the best things I ever did.I
majored in Theatre/costume and got a BA. I later went to SUNY Binghamton for
graduate school , again in Theatre/costume and got an MA. I worked 24 years
in the garment industry and a designer/patternmaker/ head of the department
and have done lots of free lance stuff during those years! .For the past 2+
years I have taught in the fashion program at the Art Institute of New York
city-- a 2 year Associate's degree program.

If someone had told me when I went to college, that I would wind up as a
college professor, I would have sent you to the psych ward... I had wanted
to be a theatre costumer (Which I did  for 6 years and then moved on to
clothing design because I needed a steady paycheck!)

I love teaching-- especially my 2 day a week schedule that allows me to
write and sew-- and if you figure out the per diam sallary, I am making
twice what I would make for my old design job--which went offshore to the
Orient, but don't get me started on THAT!

All this is to tell you that you can change careers or do something new. It
is never too late...

I have just applied to my alma matter to participate in an on line writing
MA program...  If you are interested in going to school, look for on line
courses, or intensive residency programs...

Monica Spence

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of LuAnn Mason
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 1:04 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire


Well, the other question is whether or not you can make a family-wage career
out of it.  I've done custom costuming from home for more than 10 years.
While the extra money is nice, it will never, ever be enough to support me
completely.

Now, the University of Rhode Island had a lovely masters' program in textile
conservation that I would have been all over in a shot--were it not for the
fact that I live in Washington State and want to continue to live in
Washington State.  3,000 miles is a bit too long to commute....

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message -----

  From: Lalah<mailto:lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>
  Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 7:25 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire


  Heck, fifty years ago I didn't even have a counselor.  Women were supposed
to be secretaries or teachers.  I did both and was a good teacher, and
secretary when I did that, but never happy in either field.  Luckily, I
found other outlets as I grew older.

  Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


  --- REBECCA BURCH
<ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net<mailto:ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:

  From: REBECCA BURCH
<ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net<mailto:ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>>
  Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 06:57:18 -0800 (PST)
  To: h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  Subject: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire

  Hello, again.

  I've been lurking for the past couple of months and
  wondered if there is anywhere you have bios of list
  participants stashed? So many of you seem to be doing
  what I want to do I wonder how you got there.

  Makes me wish for a time machine so I could go back 30
  years and slap the college counselor who told me
  costume wasn't a career - I should be a secretary or
  social worker.

  Any words of wisdom?

  Rebecca Burch
  Center Valley Farm
  Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
  _______________________________________________
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  _____________________________________________________________
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From: "Jeanine E. Swick" <jeanine@woollycat.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Smoking
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To give a ray of hope to those who might be facing cancer. 

    I have a friend who had a double mastectomy three years ago and then 
last year lost a lung to lung cancer.  There was no connection between 
the two. She had been a smoker for  I don't know for how long, but 
probably most of her life.  She went through some rough times with 
both.  The good news is that she HAS been declared cancer free.  For 
some people it can be beaten.

Please encourage your friends who smoke to try to stop or at least cut 
back. 

Jeanine




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Status: RO

Quoting monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>:

*snippage*

>
> All this is to tell you that you can change careers or do something new. It
> is never too late...

I'm not in costuming or theater, but let me second that statment with a
resounding AMEN!

I got my BA in 1976 in Computer Science.  Worked as a programmer for a
dozen or so years, had a kid and stayed at home afterwards.  I *always*
had photographed the spring wildflowers -- always.  (I didn't have a
place of my own to grow them, so I collected Wildflower Gardeners --
and there is that Large National Park just down the road [aka The Great
Smoky Mountains National Park]).  One day, I decided to identify my
pictures ...

I'll cut a long story here.  I entered graduate school at 40.  UTK was
good to me, and they let me start slow.  I'll be 53 this summer when I
get my PhD -- and I have had a *blast*  IME, "older students" tend to
be better students -- because they're doing it for THEMSELVES -- not to
meet somebody else's expectations.  The year that I got my MS, there was
a lady who got her PhD in Educational Counseling -- she wanted to work
with geriatric patients using Art Therapy.  She was 92 I think -- you
may remember the letter to Dear Abby about her.  She got a standing
ovation.

If you want it go for it!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Smoking
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> This is a sad thread.
>
> My mom was given 6 months when they FINALLY diagnosed the anal lesion that
> she had as 3rd stage cancer. It was diagnosed because the lesion contained
> LUNG cells... which means the primary site was in her lungs --- All due to
> smoking  from the time she was a teenager.

My mother had a tumor on the back of her neck. They did surgery and 
radiation, and swore they had gotten it all. When she kept telling them she 
was having trouble breathing (AFTER they told her she was just stressed and 
should get over it), they finally took a look at her chest cavity. It was 
almost completely filled with cancer.
>
> She was active and a beautiful woman who had been a professional ballerina
> and actress in her youth , before her marriage to my Dad at age 23.
> BTW-- she only lasted 4 months after the diagnosis. I considered it a
> blessing.

My mom died one week after they finally found the lung cancer. Like you, I 
considered it a blessing. But my mom was only 57 years old, and she should 
have had waaay more time with us, and with the grandchildren she adored. I 
truly feel that they were robbed.
>
> I wish we who have see this could explain to smokers, who all think they 
> are
> immortal...

Yeah--at one time, everyone in my family smoked. None of us do know, and I 
don't think we ever will again!

Dianne

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy & desire
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At 18:58 25/02/2006, you wrote:
>Back in the dark ages, when I went to college in 1970, my counselor
>recommended an all girls school (Seton Hill College) -- known as a place
>"Where women lead". It was the only place I applied to and got accepted as
>an early decision candidate. It was one of the best things I ever did.I
>majored in Theatre/costume and got a BA. I later went to SUNY Binghamton for
>graduate school , again in Theatre/costume and got an MA. I worked 24 years
>in the garment industry and a designer/patternmaker/ head of the department
>and have done lots of free lance stuff during those years! .For the past 2+
>years I have taught in the fashion program at the Art Institute of New York
>city-- a 2 year Associate's degree program.
>
>If someone had told me when I went to college, that I would wind up as a
>college professor, I would have sent you to the psych ward... I had wanted
>to be a theatre costumer (Which I did  for 6 years and then moved on to
>clothing design because I needed a steady paycheck!)
>
>I love teaching-- especially my 2 day a week schedule that allows me to
>write and sew-- and if you figure out the per diam sallary, I am making
>twice what I would make for my old design job--which went offshore to the
>Orient, but don't get me started on THAT!
>
>All this is to tell you that you can change careers or do something new. It
>is never too late...
>
>I have just applied to my alma matter to participate in an on line writing
>MA program...  If you are interested in going to school, look for on line
>courses, or intensive residency programs...


Although I had worked in theatre for 10 years, I went back to college 
as a mature student of 40, to learn to cut costumes. I got a diploma 
- we don't run to the kind of qualifications that the Americans do, I 
think - which no-one has ever asked to see. I teach, write, do 
research, and have not stopped working since I left college. ( I am 
now past the age of retirement, officially, but have too much work to 
retire yet, more's the pity!)

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns
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Kimiko,

	Ah! Another square peg! How delightful!

	You're on the petite end; I'm on the Rubenesque end. When I walk
into a Penningtons or any other plus size store, I get so frustrated with
the designers of these clothes trying to shove large ladies into mini-skirts
and tubular trousers, skirts and dresses. Have they ever looked at the women
for whom they're designing? We're not tubular! No way. No how. Consequently
a woman comes out with clothes that are either too baggy or too tight so
that she looks either like a clown or a tart. Neither of these are looks I'm
going for. 

	And if I purchase a blazer for $100.00+, I want it to be lined,
thank you, with more than a serged seam and buttons that fall off after the
first wearing, and not to be made of polyester so that when a hot flash hits
I don't feel like I'm wearing a plastic bag.

	Consequently the current 'dress' jacket I'm making myself has been
on the embroidery frame for several months now, based on an early 18th
century men's frock coat, but with straight sleeves, made of ivory silk/wool
twill and embroidered with rust/orange and real gold. It will take me the
rest of the year to finish, but when I do I will have an original garment
that will be timeless and last me at least a decade, especially given the
few number of special functions I attend.

	And then I'll spend most of April in the studio making myself a
series of new summer dresses (I've lost 30 pounds and am counting) because
the old ones are either worn or too big. Simple cottons, a bit of beading, a
bit of trim. Voila.

	Then come September I'm probably going to have to make some new
winter trousers and shirts, with the hope I've lost more weight and will
need a new wardrobe. And these will wear very well. Unlike the stupid cords
I purchased from Penningtons. Argh.

Regards,
Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Status: RO

            Speaking of making your own clothes, it has been my desire for
some time to make myself a new winter coat, one which is fashionable and
warm, something to go with the stunning sable and mink Russian style hat I
have. 

 

            Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to find a
pattern, or photos, of these wonderful coats? I've searched the net for days
on end to no avail. I can't find that big-skirted, wide collared coat with
the huge cuffs I so have loved for years.

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

 

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At Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:57:19 Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
>The Librarything system is easy, because you can just click on something
>to add it.  However, I don't want any of my data stored on someone
>else's machine, and therefore be dependent on their backup system, site
>availability, continued existence, etc.

No, I don't trust other's backup systems either. librarything has a 
download feature to comma delimited list that I can import into a 
spreadsheet or MS Access on my computer..  or re-upload if something 
happens on the host. Plus, I could printout a hardcopy. I'll do that when I 
get caught up! It will be awhile. I download after every significant update 
to the catalogue, so I have a backup.

Beth


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Subject: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified
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I'm baaaaack!!!  And frivolously cross posting this
all over the place;please pardon my excitement.  :"> 

I have to say (yet again!), any photo I have *ever*
seen will not do those garments justice!  This was a
most amazing experience.
I have to thank Nikki a million times over for being a
patient and humourous compass.  I, being the
directionally impaired, would not have made it *to*
the Met, let alone around the island and then home! 
It was luck of the draw we got along so well, having
only met once for about an hour the year previous. 
Thankyouthankyouthankyou!!

Okay, the cool stuff everyone has been looking forward
to: Underwear Mythbusting.  I won't have complete data
available right away, I still have to crunch it into a
readable format, however I can happily say that even
the museum staff were impressed with the level of
detail I was painstakingly dragging the Most Patient
Nikki through.  She recorded as fast as she could
while I fired numbers and terms at her as fast as she
could write.  After four hours she was just about
mental mush.  By hour six, so was I - but could have
kept going!  You have much to look forward to in the
coming months.  :-)

Myth #1 The Stained Drawers They are not in any way
stained by blood.  They are not even stained in the
right place for it to be blood of natural causes.  The
photos that we are all used to have some kind of
strange shadow artifact.  We have mapped out the
stains, however the stains are not *nearly* as dark as
the photos suggest.  My suspicion is, the inks used to
trace out the embroidery pattern leeched into
subsequent layers when the garment got wet while being
folded.  There is no evidence that suggests that
someone tried to remove the stains which tells me they
haven't been used since the stains occured.  In fact,
none of these garments look like they have been used,
ever.  This one garment though has taken a beating of
some kind; it has substantial evidence of poor-quality
repair work throught the seams and embroidery.  The
fabric shows no wear that says it was actually damaged
through actual use, though.

Myth #1A The Stained Drawers have a front and back V
opening Not true.  The back should have a seam in it;
the seam has torn away down from the waist, but has
done so cleanly enough that it appears to have a seam
finish.  The waistband is supposed to be a casing that
a drawstring runs though.

Myth #2 - The Gathered Drawers are crotchless Patently
untrue.  In fact they are gusseted, just as the other
above is.  It's just a really long opening.  They are
just like any other pair of knickers one might
envision.  I have to say though that the sewing on
this garment is just...  incredible.  The seams are as
sturdy and perfect as the day they were made.  So much
so I couldn't find the selvedge edge inside the seams.
 And the stitches are so perfectly repeated and tiny,
it looks as if a machine had made them. 

Myth #2A - The Gathered Drawers are closed with a
button Again, untrue.  They have two small eyelets for
a point tie to pass through.  The pattern down the
opening is goldwork, as is the rest of the
embellishment which excited me to no end.  Goldwork
embroidery is my new obsession so I get to decorate to
my heart's content.  Given the nature of goldwork
though, it's amazing that the embroidery is still in
perfect condition at the opening.  This point leads me
to further believe this trousseau was never worn. 

Myth #3 - The Stockings were once sleeves I totally
disagree with this supposition.  They have piecing in
them that are absolutely identical to one another
which says to me that it was a part of the cutting
design.  They are also above the knee stockings so the
photos simply have not given relevant context to their
dimensions.  I would hazard that the intended wearer
was roughly my height (5'5"); if I compare the overall
length of the stocking to my own leg, it sits
perfectly above my knee by about 2 inches.  I have
some numbers and formulae I can use to establish this
for certain, I just have to crunch it and see what
pops out.  I want to roughly estimate the overall size
of the intended wearer so I can better understand how
the clothing sat on the body.

Myth #4 - The Gathered Chemise is blackworked I'll
leave embroidery technique out of this for a moment
and say no, indeed it is not *black* work - it is
mauve and plum.  Yes, purple, to be general about it. 
And somewhat variegated at that.  It was such an odd
shade of purple that we couldn't find an accurate
match to them in the swatch book.  Basically, the
colour codes we have are close in value, but one must
sadden the tone considerably.

Myth #5 - The Ungathered Chemise has been tampered
with considerably Most certainly has been; this one is
confirmed without a doubt.  The lower hem
embellishment is petit point cross stitch in a totally
wrong style of embroidery.  In fact, the whole thing
looked so far off from what I have seen in the other
items in this collection, I left that one to last and
didn't take any really substantial recording of it.
Seams were different (the sleeves and gussets are
faggoted together rather than flat felled like the
others), style of embroidery motif is quite different
- I think it was tagged into the collection to go
along for the ride. 
Instead, we did a fast and dirty doc on the nightshirt
in the collection.  I hadn't seen this one before that
moment and was pleasantly delighted.  It has
reversible embroidery, delicate metal lace, a
sailor-style collar and pretty cuffs.  I would almost
say this could also be used as a standing collar
chemise, but there is not a great deal of leg room to
walk comfortably.  The hem is split over a foot up the
seams for walking space and freedom of movement,
that's it.  It also could be a man's shirt, it's a bit
longer than the other garments.

Myth #6 Loom Widths were really narrow/really small
Well, of course this statement is relative, but the
full width selvedge to selvedge measurements I found
were pretty consistent at 90 cm wide.  The fabric
weave is stunningly fine, ranging from 26 to 44
threads per cm.  Most of the garments are in the
higher catgegory. 

One fascinating note for all of these garments though.
 There is a seam finishing stitch I have never seen
documented before until now.  It topstitches *and*
hems at the same time.  I practiced it on the plane
home, and I think I have the method for reproducing
it.  It creates an absolutely repeatable, perfect
stitch on the top and secures the hem or seam
finishing with total durability.  It's ingenious,
simple and very rhythmic, thus easily reproducable.  I
hemmed a 60" wide piece of cloth in less than four
hours at a rate of 7-9 stitches per inch on a heavy,
uneven weave table linen, with travelling
interruptions.

Start stocking up on your stranded silk flosses - that
is what both embroidery *and* seams are sewn with. 
The seams are all this salmony-pink kind of colour and
are an intended part of the embellishement design of
the garments.  The only time a non-silk thread was
used was in structural assembly that would not
necessarily be seen in the finished garment - i.e.  -
gathering threads.  Or, in the preservation attempts;
be they well done or horribly executed. 

The only other garment that shows obvious signs of
conservation is the flowered chemise - they have
stitched a stabilising backer onto several slowly
disintegrating sections as a preventative measure. 

The stockings made no sense to us until I realised
they were stored inside out, so that the embroidery,
right side out could be seen.  It was a challenge to
bend the numbers around in my head trying to document
something not meant to lay flat.

The convent stamp found on both pairs of drawers are
far more modern than the drawers themselves; being an
ink stamp.  I'll have to go back through the museum
cards to find the Met's date of acquisition to more or
less establish the date of that stamp.  It is most
likely Victorian; the font style strikes me to be
oh...  1880 ish.

I think that's it for now, I hope I have taken care of
the immediate burning questions.  I so far have
approximate yardage requirements and cutting layouts
scribbled out.  Next will be to stew the rest of the
information into something more palatable and to make
mock ups to confirm my theories.  Once that's done... 
I'll be ready to start writing it into a final finding
paper.  :-D 

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Smoking
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Status: RO

At 11:06 AM 2/25/2006, you wrote:
>To give a ray of hope to those who might be facing cancer.
>    I have a friend who had a double mastectomy three years ago and then 
> last year lost a lung to lung cancer.  There was no connection between 
> the two. She had been a smoker for  I don't know for how long, but 
> probably most of her life.  She went through some rough times with 
> both.  The good news is that she HAS been declared cancer free.  For some 
> people it can be beaten.
>
>Please encourage your friends who smoke to try to stop or at least cut back.
>Jeanine


Thank you for giving us that ray of hope. And I do encourage my friends to 
quit, as hard as I understand it to be. If only I could find a way to tell 
strangers to quit as well.

Kimiko


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Lorina

Just to clarify... my Mom was petite, I am Rubenesque just like you, and 
slowly loosing weight. I get my height from a mix of my small Mom, and my 
ex-Marine father who was 6'2", leaving me squat in the middle at 5'6" and 
way too heavy.

You've definitely given me some ideas to think about. I like the dress 
jacket you are working on. I would love to see pics when you are finished, 
or even any works in progress.

I think I will be spending some of my quiet time today (when the kids are 
napping) sketching out some ideas.

Thanks again,

Kimiko



At 11:19 AM 2/25/2006, you wrote:
>Kimiko,
>
>         Ah! Another square peg! How delightful!
>
>         You're on the petite end; I'm on the Rubenesque end. When I walk
>into a Penningtons or any other plus size store, I get so frustrated with
>the designers of these clothes trying to shove large ladies into mini-skirts
>and tubular trousers, skirts and dresses. Have they ever looked at the women
>for whom they're designing? We're not tubular! No way. No how. Consequently
>a woman comes out with clothes that are either too baggy or too tight so
>that she looks either like a clown or a tart. Neither of these are looks I'm
>going for.
>
>         And if I purchase a blazer for $100.00+, I want it to be lined,
>thank you, with more than a serged seam and buttons that fall off after the
>first wearing, and not to be made of polyester so that when a hot flash hits
>I don't feel like I'm wearing a plastic bag.
>
>         Consequently the current 'dress' jacket I'm making myself has been
>on the embroidery frame for several months now, based on an early 18th
>century men's frock coat, but with straight sleeves, made of ivory silk/wool
>twill and embroidered with rust/orange and real gold. It will take me the
>rest of the year to finish, but when I do I will have an original garment
>that will be timeless and last me at least a decade, especially given the
>few number of special functions I attend.
>
>         And then I'll spend most of April in the studio making myself a
>series of new summer dresses (I've lost 30 pounds and am counting) because
>the old ones are either worn or too big. Simple cottons, a bit of beading, a
>bit of trim. Voila.
>
>         Then come September I'm probably going to have to make some new
>winter trousers and shirts, with the hope I've lost more weight and will
>need a new wardrobe. And these will wear very well. Unlike the stupid cords
>I purchased from Penningtons. Argh.
>
>Regards,
>Lorina
>
>Five Rivers Chapmanry
>purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
>re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
>519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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I am so sorry for your loss Monica. Thank you for sharing your story.

Kimiko


At 10:41 AM 2/25/2006, you wrote:
>This is a sad thread.
>
>My mom was given 6 months when they FINALLY diagnosed the anal lesion that
>she had as 3rd stage cancer. It was diagnosed because the lesion contained
>LUNG cells... which means the primary site was in her lungs --- All due to
>smoking  from the time she was a teenager.
>
>She was active and a beautiful woman who had been a professional ballerina
>and actress in her youth , before her marriage to my Dad at age 23.
>
>It was awful to watch the disease progress to the point that she had skin
>cancer, lung cancer, spinal cancer, liver cancer, pelvic cancer--- you name
>it . She lost her hair and her eyesight to chemo. Maybe it was a blessing--
>at least she didn't have to see the fist size black spots all over her body
>that was skin cancer. She was in terrible pain and she was not only given
>oral morphine, but the morpine patch, which had to be moved periodicallu to
>a new spot that had not been used before. It became a major problem quickly
>because she had so many skin lesions that they were running out of places to
>place the patch.
>
>BTW-- she only lasted 4 months after the diagnosis. I considered it a
>blessing.
>
>I wish we who have see this could explain to smokers, who all think they are
>immortal...
>
>
>Monica Spence (Catriona MacDuff in the SCA)



Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
Personal site: http://www.kimiko1.com
LiveJournal: http://www.livejournal.com/~sstormwatch/

"The future belongs to those who believe
      in the beauty of their dreams." - Eleanor Roosevelt

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What underwear collection are you talking about?  Whose was it, where 
was it made, and where is it currently located?

Thanks,

Fran

Kathy Page wrote:

> I'm baaaaack!!!  And frivolously cross posting this
> all over the place;please pardon my excitement.  :"> 
> 
> I have to say (yet again!), any photo I have *ever*
> seen will not do those garments justice!  This was a
> most amazing experience.
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At 05:46 AM 2/25/2006, you wrote:
>Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm afraid 
>I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom. I know what 
>they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list them? (More time I 
>haven't got anyway!)
>
>suzi


For me, it helps to be able to call them up on the computer, or search for 
something I know is on a bookshelf in the other room, or when I am not sure 
which book I have, and which book I want, because I have a swiss-cheese 
memory on things. I also plan on putting a list of my favorite books, with 
short personal reviews, on my web site for others to view. Many times on 
this list and on others, someone will ask something and instead of 
re-writing the same info (title, author, isbn, etc.) over and over, I can 
just highlight the info, copy, paste, and send the e-mail. It also helps 
for insurance purposes. If I can prove I owned a book after a fire, the 
book costs can be covered. Considering how many books I own and some are 
expensive to replace, that would be very helpful for me. And doing this on 
a computer also beats the card catalog system I once used for my general 
paperbacks, so that just means I can be anal-retentive about some things... 
I was an accountant for a reason.  ;-)

Kimiko


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Very useful; I think it's a well-thought-out site.  However, although I 
see a point in cataloging my library, I see no point to making the 
catalog public. But it's really great to see a community of serious book 
lovers--two of whom own over 8,000 books.

Why is there such a heavy preponderance of fantasy titles among the most 
owned?  I know Harry Potter is popular, but what about bestselling 
authors like Danielle Steele?  Do you know if the site designer first 
announced the site on fantasy lists and thus gained an early 
preponderance of fantasy readers?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> At Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:57:19 Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
> 
>> The Librarything system is easy, because you can just click on something
>> to add it.  However, I don't want any of my data stored on someone
>> else's machine, and therefore be dependent on their backup system, site
>> availability, continued existence, etc.
>
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Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 15:33:15 -0500
From: "Jacqueline Johnson" <kristalori@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
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Status: RO

You can make your lists private so that no one else can read them. And while
Steele may be on the best sellers list its Sci-fi that is what people read
for the most part. I'm sure I'll hear howls over that. But there was an
article not long ago about sc-fi held the top rank closely followed by
romances. And I don't exactly call HP sci-fi. Those books fall into the
fantasy category with books like Lord of the Rings and the the Mists of
Avalon books. Sci Fi are considered things like Dune and the like. If you
click the Zeitetgeist (sic) link on the page it will take you to all sorts
of neat rankings.

B~

On 2/25/06, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
>
> Very useful; I think it's a well-thought-out site.  However, although I
> see a point in cataloging my library, I see no point to making the
> catalog public. But it's really great to see a community of serious book
> lovers--two of whom own over 8,000 books.
>
> Why is there such a heavy preponderance of fantasy titles among the most
> owned?  I know Harry Potter is popular, but what about bestselling
> authors like Danielle Steele?  Do you know if the site designer first
> announced the site on fantasy lists and thus gained an early
> preponderance of fantasy readers?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion
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> I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: " People wear black 
> because it reflects the mood of the times."
> 

The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do so 
because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They want 
to look nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking colors 
or textures. Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they stay with 
safe neutral colors.

As for dressing up in historic costume but not in real life, I rarely 
have RL chances to wear long gowns, silk dresses , beaded fabrics or 
anything requiring a crinoline. But costume events give me several 
chances a year to get decked out in something fancy and original. It's 
not that I don't want to wear ball gowns, I just don't get to many State 
Dinners or Coronations. :)




Dawn


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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:04:57 -0800
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On Feb 25, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> At 13:33 25/02/2006, you wrote:
>> Yeh, I promised myself for years too, then a friend told me about  
>> librarything. So I'm slowly going through my library and writing  
>> the ISBN numbers on a pad for 20 -30 books at a time, shelf by  
>> shelf. With all the resources that Librarything can access, it's  
>> really not too bad. The books without ISBN do take a little bit  
>> longer, but I still rarely have to enter all the info.
>>
>> Beth
>>
>>> Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 17:24:29 -0800
>>> From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
>>>
>>> Not yet.  I've been telling myself for years that I need to do
>>> something like this.  But I'll definitely need a lifetime membership
>>> :-D.  Thanks for sharing the site.
>
>
> Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm  
> afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my  
> workroom. I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I  
> need to list them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)

Well, I don't know about anyone else, but for me, after the _second_  
time I bought a second copy of a $100 book because I'd forgotten that  
I already owned it, I started carrying my book list file around on my  
Palm Pilot.  I simply can't remember 4000 books individually, and the  
matter becomes more complicated when I know I've had a particular  
book in my hands but can't remember if it was a library copy, a copy  
in a bookstore that I decided I couldn't buy at the time, or a copy  
on my own shelves.

I use an ordinary Excel spreadsheet -- I'd been entering books into  
it for years already when I got the software to put it on my Palm.   
One of the motivations for setting up the electronic file (other than  
simply having a catalog for documentary purposes, e.g., in case of  
loss) was having a convenient file for pulling citations from when  
creating bibliographies.  At the time, I was doing SCA heraldic  
commentary and was throwing together an extensive list of citations  
for my commentary letters every month.

Different parts of the library got entered into the file at different  
times, based on usage.  It helped that around the time I was getting  
serious about it, I had a move that was leisurely and stress-free  
enough that I could catalog the books as I packed them.  There are  
still a few parts of my library that haven't been catalogued  
(especially the sheet music) and when I do a major bookshelf  
reorganization this year I should probably do a formal shelf-check as  
well.

As someone else noted, it's also a convenient place to keep track of  
who you've lent books out to and whether they've come back.

Heather

--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French seams was RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:10:47 -0800
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On Feb 25, 2006, at 7:27 AM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> Does anyone know when "French" seams were introduced? I haven't  
> been able to find an existing example in the SCA period (prior to  
> 1600).
>

A lot depends on how specifically you're defining "French seams".   
There were a lot of different ways of creating seams with finished  
edges pre-1600, often depending on the type of fabric involved.  For  
a non-exhaustive survey taken from archaeological textiles, check out  
the article "Archaeological sewing" on my website (see sig line).

Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 13:03:40 -0800
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
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At 8:27 PM -0500 2/24/06, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>On Friday 24 February 2006 8:05 pm, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
>  > I have been cataloging my reference collection on librarything.
>
>Using what for time?  When I retire, maybe.

I'm also a LibraryThing fan, though I did maybe two batches of books 
a while ago and haven't gotten back to it.

The great thing about it is that it DOESN'T take much time because 
you don't have to enter ALL the information on 99% of the books. It 
will look them up for you! All I've needed to type in is the titles, 
and it pulls them right up.

I do plan to back up the list on my own computer once it bears some 
resemblance to my actual library -- I haven't been systematic about 
it. It sounds like it will be in a format that I'll be able to import 
into FileMaker (or MS Access) so I'll have my own database.

Since I hate having to look up and type ALL the information about a 
book every @#$%! time I cite it, this site is _wonderful_.
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion
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*snip*
> The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do so 
> because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They want to 
> look nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking colors or 
> textures. Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they stay with safe 
> neutral colors.

Ah...but are they aware that there are different colors of black? True 
carbon black,   black with a blue cast, with a green cast, and so on. Makes 
me crazy that my black tee shirt doesn't go with my black sweat pants (tee 
is bluer than the pants). And when they've had the garment too long, ya get 
grey. :-)

kate 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified
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Absolutely wonderful detail; however, for those of us who don't remember, just WHAT underwear are you talking about?
 
Ann Wass 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: Historical Costume List <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 14:50:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified


I'm baaaaack!!!  And frivolously cross posting this
all over the place;please pardon my excitement.  :"> 

I have to say (yet again!), any photo I have *ever*
seen will not do those garments justice!  This was a
most amazing experience.
I have to thank Nikki a million times over for being a
patient and humourous compass.  I, being the
directionally impaired, would not have made it *to*
the Met, let alone around the island and then home! 
It was luck of the draw we got along so well, having
only met once for about an hour the year previous. 
Thankyouthankyouthankyou!!

Okay, the cool stuff everyone has been looking forward
to: Underwear Mythbusting.  I won't have complete data
available right away, I still have to crunch it into a
readable format, however I can happily say that even
the museum staff were impressed with the level of
detail I was painstakingly dragging the Most Patient
Nikki through.  She recorded as fast as she could
while I fired numbers and terms at her as fast as she
could write.  After four hours she was just about
mental mush.  By hour six, so was I - but could have
kept going!  You have much to look forward to in the
coming months.  :-)

Myth #1 The Stained Drawers They are not in any way
stained by blood.  They are not even stained in the
right place for it to be blood of natural causes.  The
photos that we are all used to have some kind of
strange shadow artifact.  We have mapped out the
stains, however the stains are not *nearly* as dark as
the photos suggest.  My suspicion is, the inks used to
trace out the embroidery pattern leeched into
subsequent layers when the garment got wet while being
folded.  There is no evidence that suggests that
someone tried to remove the stains which tells me they
haven't been used since the stains occured.  In fact,
none of these garments look like they have been used,
ever.  This one garment though has taken a beating of
some kind; it has substantial evidence of poor-quality
repair work throught the seams and embroidery.  The
fabric shows no wear that says it was actually damaged
through actual use, though.

Myth #1A The Stained Drawers have a front and back V
opening Not true.  The back should have a seam in it;
the seam has torn away down from the waist, but has
done so cleanly enough that it appears to have a seam
finish.  The waistband is supposed to be a casing that
a drawstring runs though.

Myth #2 - The Gathered Drawers are crotchless Patently
untrue.  In fact they are gusseted, just as the other
above is.  It's just a really long opening.  They are
just like any other pair of knickers one might
envision.  I have to say though that the sewing on
this garment is just...  incredible.  The seams are as
sturdy and perfect as the day they were made.  So much
so I couldn't find the selvedge edge inside the seams.
 And the stitches are so perfectly repeated and tiny,
it looks as if a machine had made them. 

Myth #2A - The Gathered Drawers are closed with a
button Again, untrue.  They have two small eyelets for
a point tie to pass through.  The pattern down the
opening is goldwork, as is the rest of the
embellishment which excited me to no end.  Goldwork
embroidery is my new obsession so I get to decorate to
my heart's content.  Given the nature of goldwork
though, it's amazing that the embroidery is still in
perfect condition at the opening.  This point leads me
to further believe this trousseau was never worn. 

Myth #3 - The Stockings were once sleeves I totally
disagree with this supposition.  They have piecing in
them that are absolutely identical to one another
which says to me that it was a part of the cutting
design.  They are also above the knee stockings so the
photos simply have not given relevant context to their
dimensions.  I would hazard that the intended wearer
was roughly my height (5'5"); if I compare the overall
length of the stocking to my own leg, it sits
perfectly above my knee by about 2 inches.  I have
some numbers and formulae I can use to establish this
for certain, I just have to crunch it and see what
pops out.  I want to roughly estimate the overall size
of the intended wearer so I can better understand how
the clothing sat on the body.

Myth #4 - The Gathered Chemise is blackworked I'll
leave embroidery technique out of this for a moment
and say no, indeed it is not *black* work - it is
mauve and plum.  Yes, purple, to be general about it. 
And somewhat variegated at that.  It was such an odd
shade of purple that we couldn't find an accurate
match to them in the swatch book.  Basically, the
colour codes we have are close in value, but one must
sadden the tone considerably.

Myth #5 - The Ungathered Chemise has been tampered
with considerably Most certainly has been; this one is
confirmed without a doubt.  The lower hem
embellishment is petit point cross stitch in a totally
wrong style of embroidery.  In fact, the whole thing
looked so far off from what I have seen in the other
items in this collection, I left that one to last and
didn't take any really substantial recording of it.
Seams were different (the sleeves and gussets are
faggoted together rather than flat felled like the
others), style of embroidery motif is quite different
- I think it was tagged into the collection to go
along for the ride. 
Instead, we did a fast and dirty doc on the nightshirt
in the collection.  I hadn't seen this one before that
moment and was pleasantly delighted.  It has
reversible embroidery, delicate metal lace, a
sailor-style collar and pretty cuffs.  I would almost
say this could also be used as a standing collar
chemise, but there is not a great deal of leg room to
walk comfortably.  The hem is split over a foot up the
seams for walking space and freedom of movement,
that's it.  It also could be a man's shirt, it's a bit
longer than the other garments.

Myth #6 Loom Widths were really narrow/really small
Well, of course this statement is relative, but the
full width selvedge to selvedge measurements I found
were pretty consistent at 90 cm wide.  The fabric
weave is stunningly fine, ranging from 26 to 44
threads per cm.  Most of the garments are in the
higher catgegory. 

One fascinating note for all of these garments though.
 There is a seam finishing stitch I have never seen
documented before until now.  It topstitches *and*
hems at the same time.  I practiced it on the plane
home, and I think I have the method for reproducing
it.  It creates an absolutely repeatable, perfect
stitch on the top and secures the hem or seam
finishing with total durability.  It's ingenious,
simple and very rhythmic, thus easily reproducable.  I
hemmed a 60" wide piece of cloth in less than four
hours at a rate of 7-9 stitches per inch on a heavy,
uneven weave table linen, with travelling
interruptions.

Start stocking up on your stranded silk flosses - that
is what both embroidery *and* seams are sewn with. 
The seams are all this salmony-pink kind of colour and
are an intended part of the embellishement design of
the garments.  The only time a non-silk thread was
used was in structural assembly that would not
necessarily be seen in the finished garment - i.e.  -
gathering threads.  Or, in the preservation attempts;
be they well done or horribly executed. 

The only other garment that shows obvious signs of
conservation is the flowered chemise - they have
stitched a stabilising backer onto several slowly
disintegrating sections as a preventative measure. 

The stockings made no sense to us until I realised
they were stored inside out, so that the embroidery,
right side out could be seen.  It was a challenge to
bend the numbers around in my head trying to document
something not meant to lay flat.

The convent stamp found on both pairs of drawers are
far more modern than the drawers themselves; being an
ink stamp.  I'll have to go back through the museum
cards to find the Met's date of acquisition to more or
less establish the date of that stamp.  It is most
likely Victorian; the font style strikes me to be
oh...  1880 ish.

I think that's it for now, I hope I have taken care of
the immediate burning questions.  I so far have
approximate yardage requirements and cutting layouts
scribbled out.  Next will be to stew the rest of the
information into something more palatable and to make
mock ups to confirm my theories.  Once that's done... 
I'll be ready to start writing it into a final finding
paper.  :-D 

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or 
barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It?s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is 
an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to 
receive it.
-Ivan Panin


    

    
        
__________________________________________________________ 
Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
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I've been working on a banner for some newly married friends.  I'm using Jacquard Textile paints.  I'm not sure what happend but one of the panels that I had to wash - after being painted and heatset; the paint bubbled up and peeled off.  Well, actually it was the second coat of paint that I had done over a lighter color of paint.  The lighter color stayed in place.  I'm going to be redoing the whole panel over.   Does anyone have any ideas on what might have happened so I don't make the same mistake again?

Roscelin
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Since I hate having to look up and type ALL the information about a 
book every @#$%! time I cite it, this site is _wonderful_.
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California



AHH, correct usage- a sight for sore eyes!!

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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Almost OT, Chaucer
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Brilliant! I'm sending this to half my friends! Tahnk you SO SO much for
sharing this.

LynnD


On 2/23/06, Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
>
>
> Geoffrey Chaucer hath a blog. Really:
> http://houseoffame.blogs.friendster.com/my_blog/
>
> Only a handful of posts, but in September he wrote about costume:
>
> <<
> for a while ther I wolde breke a swete bifor I had ypassed St. Katherines
> chirche
> now I kanne weare mine woolen hosen, and mine little hatte
> >>
>
> --Robin
> tongue thrust firmly through left cheek
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Paint
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 19:54:22 -0500
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If you paint on any synthetic fabric like polyester, acrylic paint may not 
stick. It sits on the top and does not soak in like dye should. Dye won't 
work either. Polyester is a man-made plastic and has to be colored in the 
extrusion process.
I had a wonderful project in grad school, washed it and it all was gone. The 
others on that fabric have never been washed! They could use it but I'm 
notlosing them.
Good luck. That's just in idea of what might have happened.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <roscelinlimoges@comcast.net>
To: "Historic Costuming" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 7:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Fabric Paint


> I've been working on a banner for some newly married friends.  I'm using 
> Jacquard Textile paints.  I'm not sure what happend but one of the panels 
> that I had to wash - after being painted and heatset; the paint bubbled up 
> and peeled off.  Well, actually it was the second coat of paint that I had 
> done over a lighter color of paint.  The lighter color stayed in place. 
> I'm going to be redoing the whole panel over.   Does anyone have any ideas 
> on what might have happened so I don't make the same mistake again?
>
> Roscelin
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] books
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>
> Why is there such a heavy preponderance of fantasy titles among the most 
> owned?  I know Harry Potter is popular, but what about bestselling authors 
> like Danielle Steele?  Do you know if the site designer first announced 
> the site on fantasy lists and thus gained an early preponderance of 
> fantasy readers?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press


I think--and I'm just speculating here--that perhaps SCA-Fi fantasy fiction 
readers tend to hang onto their books longer. I am not a romance reader--to 
me, IF I read a Danielle Steele book, it would be a once-only type of book. 
(And I'd be pretty desperate for reading material.)Whereas, Silverlock, for 
instance, I can read over and over--and you have to re-read all the Harry 
Potter books to prepare for the release of the new one, so it makes sense to 
collect them...And I'd clobber anyone who suggested I get rid of Queen 
Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd.

To make yet another sweeping generalization, the vast majority of the people 
I know who are passionate about books tend to be costumers and Scadians, and 
those people tend to lean more toward that end of the fiction-reading 
spectrum. My non-SCA friends tend to wonder why on earth anyone would have 
so many books.

Dianne


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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Paint
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I don't know about the Jacquard brand, but most fabric paints are designed to paint on fabric - not other paint.  It bonds with the fabric and gets in between the threads to hold it.  I haven't met one yet that works well covering another layer of paint and I have been fabric painting for longer than I care to admit.  Even taught it for a while some years back.  Some of the newer fabric paints may do the job, but I wouldn't bet on it.  You might try using regular acrylic paints as a second coat as they are made to stick to plastic and other non-porous surfaces.  Good Luck.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:

From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 00:06:35 +0000
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historic Costuming)
Subject: [h-cost] Fabric Paint

I've been working on a banner for some newly married friends.  I'm using Jacquard Textile paints.  I'm not sure what happend but one of the panels that I had to wash - after being painted and heatset; the paint bubbled up and peeled off.  Well, actually it was the second coat of paint that I had done over a lighter color of paint.  The lighter color stayed in place.  I'm going to be redoing the whole panel over.   Does anyone have any ideas on what might have happened so I don't make the same mistake again?

Roscelin
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing, Was: patterns
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 20:57:25 -0500
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Lorina,

Congrats on losing the weight!  Unfortunately- it found me !

Seems there are a few of us Square Pegs around.  T's and sweats are 
constant companions.

I love getting "dressed" for Side Saddle events and historical Teas.  
Victorian is my preferred Period Style.  My husband can wear American 
Civil War type clothing, so we are all pretty happy with that 
"impression".

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 25, 2006, at 2:19 PM, Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:

> Kimiko,
>
>     Ah! Another square peg! How delightful!
>
>     You're on the petite end; I'm on the Rubenesque end. When I walk
> into a Penningtons or any other plus size store, I get so frustrated 
> with
> the designers of these clothes trying to shove large ladies into 
> mini-skirts
> and tubular trousers, skirts and dresses. Have they ever looked at the 
> women
> for whom they're designing? We're not tubular! No way. No how. 
> Consequently
> a woman comes out with clothes that are either too baggy or too tight 
> so
> that she looks either like a clown or a tart. Neither of these are 
> looks I'm
> going for.
>
>     And if I purchase a blazer for $100.00+, I want it to be lined,
> thank you, with more than a serged seam and buttons that fall off 
> after the
> first wearing, and not to be made of polyester so that when a hot 
> flash hits
> I don't feel like I'm wearing a plastic bag.
>
>     Consequently the current 'dress' jacket I'm making myself has been
> on the embroidery frame for several months now, based on an early 18th
> century men's frock coat, but with straight sleeves, made of ivory 
> silk/wool
> twill and embroidered with rust/orange and real gold. It will take me 
> the
> rest of the year to finish, but when I do I will have an original 
> garment
> that will be timeless and last me at least a decade, especially given 
> the
> few number of special functions I attend.
>
>     And then I'll spend most of April in the studio making myself a
> series of new summer dresses (I've lost 30 pounds and am counting) 
> because
> the old ones are either worn or too big. Simple cottons, a bit of 
> beading, a
> bit of trim. Voila.
>
>     Then come September I'm probably going to have to make some new
> winter trousers and shirts, with the hope I've lost more weight and 
> will
> need a new wardrobe. And these will wear very well. Unlike the stupid 
> cords
> I purchased from Penningtons. Argh.
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
>
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted 
> cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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I like that idea. If enough of us do that, maybe we'll spark a fashion
"trend" (like Laura Ashley and the milkmaid look), and everyone will want to
dress like us.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 10:12 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost]was Re:patterns now clothing and shoes


<<On Feb 25, 2006, at 11:57 AM, kelly grant wrote:
Getting dressed to go out is a nightmare!>>

Amen!  I always ask if I should wear "Period Attire".  It is so much 
easier to "dress".

Can we start a Fashion Trend, wearing our chosen Period clothing day to 
day?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too
fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark Trail" by
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Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 20:07:15 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French seams
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I am aware of your site (and Marc's) and stitch discussions in various 
archaeological references... that's the problem.  Of the various seam 
finishes, I just cannot find an existing garment or fragment with the 
"French seam".. so I guess I'm defining it pretty specifically. A modern 
example is at http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/french.seam.html

Beth

At 06:06 PM 2/25/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:10:47 -0800
>From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>d
>
>On Feb 25, 2006, at 7:27 AM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
>
> > Does anyone know when "French" seams were introduced? I haven't
> > been able to find an existing example in the SCA period (prior to
> > 1600).
> >
>
>A lot depends on how specifically you're defining "French seams".
>There were a lot of different ways of creating seams with finished
>edges pre-1600, often depending on the type of fabric involved.  For
>a non-exhaustive survey taken from archaeological textiles, check out
>the article "Archaeological sewing" on my website (see sig line).
>
>Heather
>--
>Heather Rose Jones

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Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 18:16:12 -0800
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cossack coat
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Is Folkwear's Cossack pattern still available?

LynnD


On 2/25/06, Five Rivers Chapmanry <lgsteph@wightman.ca> wrote:
>
>            Speaking of making your own clothes, it has been my desire for
> some time to make myself a new winter coat, one which is fashionable and
> warm, something to go with the stunning sable and mink Russian style hat I
> have.
>
>
>
>            Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to find a
> pattern, or photos, of these wonderful coats? I've searched the net for
> days
> on end to no avail. I can't find that big-skirted, wide collared coat with
> the huge cuffs I so have loved for years.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Lorina
>
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
>
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
>
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Do you mean like the 60's type coat that I remember Barbie dolls wearing?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Five Rivers Chapmanry
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 11:21 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Cossack coat


            Speaking of making your own clothes, it has been my desire for
some time to make myself a new winter coat, one which is fashionable and
warm, something to go with the stunning sable and mink Russian style hat I
have. 

 

            Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to find a
pattern, or photos, of these wonderful coats? I've searched the net for days
on end to no avail. I can't find that big-skirted, wide collared coat with
the huge cuffs I so have loved for years.

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

 

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Where I live (San Francisco  area) there are themed dances every month or
so. So, we get to wear our lovely stuff and make more!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 12:58 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion



> I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: " People wear 
> black
> because it reflects the mood of the times."
> 

The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do so 
because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They want 
to look nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking colors 
or textures. Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they stay with 
safe neutral colors.

As for dressing up in historic costume but not in real life, I rarely 
have RL chances to wear long gowns, silk dresses , beaded fabrics or 
anything requiring a crinoline. But costume events give me several 
chances a year to get decked out in something fancy and original. It's 
not that I don't want to wear ball gowns, I just don't get to many State 
Dinners or Coronations. :)




Dawn


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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 21:38:14 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Men- colorblindness is a factor there, too.  One of my former bosses 
was good looking and always dressed impeccably.  (He was referred to as 
a Ken Doll).  He was color blind!  He had all his clothes put away in 
"sets" by his wife, so he would never make a bad color choice.  Again- 
Behind a successful Man is a Woman.  PS- She was also impeccably 
dressed.

How about wearing "everyday clothing" from your chosen time period?  
Not as much fun as a ball gown, but...

Just think, people may think you are making a "statement" or you are 
just weird.  At least it would be a "good weird".

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 25, 2006, at 3:57 PM, Dawn wrote:

>
>> I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: " People wear 
>> black because it reflects the mood of the times."
>
> The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do 
> so because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They 
> want to look nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking 
> colors or textures. Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they 
> stay with safe neutral colors.
>
> As for dressing up in historic costume but not in real life, I rarely 
> have RL chances to wear long gowns, silk dresses , beaded fabrics or 
> anything requiring a crinoline. But costume events give me several 
> chances a year to get decked out in something fancy and original. It's 
> not that I don't want to wear ball gowns, I just don't get to many 
> State Dinners or Coronations. :)
>
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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I have seen one on an early 19th century (probably 1805-1820) sheer fabric.  Frankly, I was surprised--didn't expect it even that early.
 
Ann Wass 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 20:07:15 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French seams


I am aware of your site (and Marc's) and stitch discussions in various archaeological references... that's the problem. Of the various seam finishes, I just cannot find an existing garment or fragment with the "French seam".. so I guess I'm defining it pretty specifically. A modern example is at http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/french.seam.html 
 
Beth 
 
At 06:06 PM 2/25/2006, you wrote: 
>Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:10:47 -0800 
>From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>d 
> 
>On Feb 25, 2006, at 7:27 AM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote: 
> 
> > Does anyone know when "French" seams were introduced? I haven't 
> > been able to find an existing example in the SCA period (prior to 
> > 1600). 
> > 
> 
>A lot depends on how specifically you're defining "French seams". 
>There were a lot of different ways of creating seams with finished 
>edges pre-1600, often depending on the type of fabric involved. For 
>a non-exhaustive survey taken from archaeological textiles, check out 
>the article "Archaeological sewing" on my website (see sig line). 
> 
>Heather 
>-- 
>Heather Rose Jones 
 
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Watch it!  I made one of those!  It was dark gray wool, had princess seams, and I put a real Persian lamb collar on it.
 
Ann Wass 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Sharon at Collierfam.com <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: 'Historical Costume' <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 18:24:23 -0800
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cossack coat


Do you mean like the 60's type coat that I remember Barbie dolls wearing?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Five Rivers Chapmanry
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 11:21 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Cossack coat


            Speaking of making your own clothes, it has been my desire for
some time to make myself a new winter coat, one which is fashionable and
warm, something to go with the stunning sable and mink Russian style hat I
have. 

 

            Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to find a
pattern, or photos, of these wonderful coats? I've searched the net for days
on end to no avail. I can't find that big-skirted, wide collared coat with
the huge cuffs I so have loved for years.

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

 

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Ah, yes, another reason to do living history.  I have been fortunate enough to attend one real inaugural ball, but those don't come along very often.  I also do modern western square dancing (my husband is a caller), which gives me another opportunity to play with fabrics and fancy trims.  I gave up the short styles with pouffy crinolines a while ago; the longer skirts are worn with softer petticoats--the circumference is just as full, but it doesn't stand out as much.  I DON'T make my petticoats, though.
 
Ann Wass 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 14:57:55 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion


> I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: " People wear black > because it reflects the mood of the times." 
>  
The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do so because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They want to look nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking colors or textures. Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they stay with safe neutral colors. 
 
As for dressing up in historic costume but not in real life, I rarely have RL chances to wear long gowns, silk dresses , beaded fabrics or anything requiring a crinoline. But costume events give me several chances a year to get decked out in something fancy and original. It's not that I don't want to wear ball gowns, I just don't get to many State Dinners or Coronations. :) 
 
 
Dawn 
 
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A couple of days a week, I help out at a (good) fabric store.  I decided 
today that once a month or so I'll be wearing a historical something or 
another as I work!

Now to make some dresses that don't have trains...

-E House
 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified
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Having recently joined the group, Where can I see pics of this underwear?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kathy Page
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 11:50 AM
To: Historical Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified


I'm baaaaack!!!  And frivolously cross posting this
all over the place;please pardon my excitement.  :"> 

I have to say (yet again!), any photo I have *ever*
seen will not do those garments justice!  This was a
most amazing experience.
I have to thank Nikki a million times over for being a
patient and humourous compass.  I, being the
directionally impaired, would not have made it *to*
the Met, let alone around the island and then home! 
It was luck of the draw we got along so well, having
only met once for about an hour the year previous. 
Thankyouthankyouthankyou!!

Okay, the cool stuff everyone has been looking forward
to: Underwear Mythbusting.  I won't have complete data available right away,
I still have to crunch it into a readable format, however I can happily say
that even the museum staff were impressed with the level of detail I was
painstakingly dragging the Most Patient Nikki through.  She recorded as fast
as she could while I fired numbers and terms at her as fast as she could
write.  After four hours she was just about mental mush.  By hour six, so
was I - but could have kept going!  You have much to look forward to in the
coming months.  :-)

Myth #1 The Stained Drawers They are not in any way
stained by blood.  They are not even stained in the
right place for it to be blood of natural causes.  The
photos that we are all used to have some kind of
strange shadow artifact.  We have mapped out the
stains, however the stains are not *nearly* as dark as
the photos suggest.  My suspicion is, the inks used to
trace out the embroidery pattern leeched into
subsequent layers when the garment got wet while being
folded.  There is no evidence that suggests that
someone tried to remove the stains which tells me they
haven't been used since the stains occured.  In fact,
none of these garments look like they have been used,
ever.  This one garment though has taken a beating of
some kind; it has substantial evidence of poor-quality
repair work throught the seams and embroidery.  The
fabric shows no wear that says it was actually damaged
through actual use, though.

Myth #1A The Stained Drawers have a front and back V
opening Not true.  The back should have a seam in it;
the seam has torn away down from the waist, but has
done so cleanly enough that it appears to have a seam
finish.  The waistband is supposed to be a casing that
a drawstring runs though.

Myth #2 - The Gathered Drawers are crotchless Patently
untrue.  In fact they are gusseted, just as the other
above is.  It's just a really long opening.  They are
just like any other pair of knickers one might
envision.  I have to say though that the sewing on
this garment is just...  incredible.  The seams are as
sturdy and perfect as the day they were made.  So much
so I couldn't find the selvedge edge inside the seams.
 And the stitches are so perfectly repeated and tiny,
it looks as if a machine had made them. 

Myth #2A - The Gathered Drawers are closed with a
button Again, untrue.  They have two small eyelets for
a point tie to pass through.  The pattern down the
opening is goldwork, as is the rest of the
embellishment which excited me to no end.  Goldwork
embroidery is my new obsession so I get to decorate to
my heart's content.  Given the nature of goldwork
though, it's amazing that the embroidery is still in
perfect condition at the opening.  This point leads me
to further believe this trousseau was never worn. 

Myth #3 - The Stockings were once sleeves I totally
disagree with this supposition.  They have piecing in
them that are absolutely identical to one another
which says to me that it was a part of the cutting
design.  They are also above the knee stockings so the
photos simply have not given relevant context to their dimensions.  I would
hazard that the intended wearer was roughly my height (5'5"); if I compare
the overall length of the stocking to my own leg, it sits perfectly above my
knee by about 2 inches.  I have some numbers and formulae I can use to
establish this for certain, I just have to crunch it and see what pops out.
I want to roughly estimate the overall size of the intended wearer so I can
better understand how the clothing sat on the body.

Myth #4 - The Gathered Chemise is blackworked I'll
leave embroidery technique out of this for a moment
and say no, indeed it is not *black* work - it is
mauve and plum.  Yes, purple, to be general about it. 
And somewhat variegated at that.  It was such an odd
shade of purple that we couldn't find an accurate
match to them in the swatch book.  Basically, the
colour codes we have are close in value, but one must
sadden the tone considerably.

Myth #5 - The Ungathered Chemise has been tampered
with considerably Most certainly has been; this one is confirmed without a
doubt.  The lower hem embellishment is petit point cross stitch in a totally
wrong style of embroidery.  In fact, the whole thing looked so far off from
what I have seen in the other items in this collection, I left that one to
last and didn't take any really substantial recording of it. Seams were
different (the sleeves and gussets are faggoted together rather than flat
felled like the others), style of embroidery motif is quite different
- I think it was tagged into the collection to go
along for the ride. 
Instead, we did a fast and dirty doc on the nightshirt
in the collection.  I hadn't seen this one before that
moment and was pleasantly delighted.  It has
reversible embroidery, delicate metal lace, a
sailor-style collar and pretty cuffs.  I would almost
say this could also be used as a standing collar
chemise, but there is not a great deal of leg room to
walk comfortably.  The hem is split over a foot up the
seams for walking space and freedom of movement,
that's it.  It also could be a man's shirt, it's a bit
longer than the other garments.

Myth #6 Loom Widths were really narrow/really small
Well, of course this statement is relative, but the
full width selvedge to selvedge measurements I found
were pretty consistent at 90 cm wide.  The fabric
weave is stunningly fine, ranging from 26 to 44
threads per cm.  Most of the garments are in the
higher catgegory. 

One fascinating note for all of these garments though.
 There is a seam finishing stitch I have never seen
documented before until now.  It topstitches *and*
hems at the same time.  I practiced it on the plane
home, and I think I have the method for reproducing
it.  It creates an absolutely repeatable, perfect
stitch on the top and secures the hem or seam
finishing with total durability.  It's ingenious,
simple and very rhythmic, thus easily reproducable.  I
hemmed a 60" wide piece of cloth in less than four
hours at a rate of 7-9 stitches per inch on a heavy,
uneven weave table linen, with travelling
interruptions.

Start stocking up on your stranded silk flosses - that
is what both embroidery *and* seams are sewn with. 
The seams are all this salmony-pink kind of colour and
are an intended part of the embellishement design of
the garments.  The only time a non-silk thread was
used was in structural assembly that would not
necessarily be seen in the finished garment - i.e.  -
gathering threads.  Or, in the preservation attempts;
be they well done or horribly executed. 

The only other garment that shows obvious signs of
conservation is the flowered chemise - they have
stitched a stabilising backer onto several slowly disintegrating sections as
a preventative measure. 

The stockings made no sense to us until I realised
they were stored inside out, so that the embroidery,
right side out could be seen.  It was a challenge to
bend the numbers around in my head trying to document
something not meant to lay flat.

The convent stamp found on both pairs of drawers are
far more modern than the drawers themselves; being an
ink stamp.  I'll have to go back through the museum
cards to find the Met's date of acquisition to more or
less establish the date of that stamp.  It is most
likely Victorian; the font style strikes me to be
oh...  1880 ish.

I think that's it for now, I hope I have taken care of
the immediate burning questions.  I so far have
approximate yardage requirements and cutting layouts
scribbled out.  Next will be to stew the rest of the information into
something more palatable and to make mock ups to confirm my theories.  Once
that's done... 
I'll be ready to start writing it into a final finding
paper.  :-D 

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It's never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there
is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to
receive it. -Ivan Panin


	

	
		
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Great idea!

I'll bet that pattern and fabric sales rise in your store because 
people will be "motivated" by your creativity.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 25, 2006, at 10:27 PM, E House wrote:

> A couple of days a week, I help out at a (good) fabric store.  I 
> decided today that once a month or so I'll be wearing a historical 
> something or another as I work!
>
> Now to make some dresses that don't have trains...
>
> -E House
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 22:11:23 -0600
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-----Original Message-----
<<<One day, I am going to get him the ( black, of course! ) t-shirt that has
'I'm only wearing black until they invent a darker colour'.>>>

*lol!

<<<Of course, his re-enactment gear is an entirely different matter - his
first 17thC outfit had a burgundy/purple doublet, with gold satin breeches.
:-) He keeps changing his mind about what colour he wants for his new
outfit, first it was going to be crimson, then blue, then.....

Joannah>>>

*Why not a crimson or blue material with blue or crimsom accents. If blue
w/crimson + silver or Crimson w/blue +gold.  De



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It's the Medieval Conference at Kalamazoo that gives me the most problems.  Every other place I sell books, I'm wearing medieval or Renaissance SCA clothes, but there modern clothing is all I've ever seen.  Some of the participants (professors who already have tenure?) slum it in jeans and tee shirts but since there is a lot of professional networking going on, most dress better than that.  Trying to find clothes that look somewhat professional, that I can work in all day, with variations for unpredictable climatic conditions (one year it was up to 90 on the first week of May) and that I already own makes me crazy!  It's so much easier to dress in costume!

Janet

  <<On Feb 25, 2006, at 11:57 AM, kelly grant wrote:
  Getting dressed to go out is a nightmare!>>

  Amen!  I always ask if I should wear "Period Attire".  It is so much 
  easier to "dress".

  Can we start a Fashion Trend, wearing our chosen Period clothing day to 
  day?

  Susan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]was  Re:patterns now clothing and shoes
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Start a trend.  Wear your Period Appropriate clothing to sell your 
Period Appropriate books.  You'll feel better and be happier!

Maybe the idea will catch on.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 25, 2006, at 11:28 PM, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:

> It's the Medieval Conference at Kalamazoo that gives me the most 
> problems.  Every other place I sell books, I'm wearing medieval or 
> Renaissance SCA clothes, but there modern clothing is all I've ever 
> seen.  Some of the participants (professors who already have tenure?) 
> slum it in jeans and tee shirts but since there is a lot of 
> professional networking going on, most dress better than that.  Trying 
> to find clothes that look somewhat professional, that I can work in 
> all day, with variations for unpredictable climatic conditions (one 
> year it was up to 90 on the first week of May) and that I already own 
> makes me crazy!  It's so much easier to dress in costume!
>
> Janet
>
>   <<On Feb 25, 2006, at 11:57 AM, kelly grant wrote:
>   Getting dressed to go out is a nightmare!>>
>
>   Amen!  I always ask if I should wear "Period Attire".  It is so much
>   easier to "dress".
>
>   Can we start a Fashion Trend, wearing our chosen Period clothing day 
> to
>   day?
>
>   Susan
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Underwear, Demystified
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Im a goober. *LOL*

In my enthusiasm I kinda FORGOT to mention the
fundamental information:

> What underwear collection are you talking about? 

The collection is referred to as the "Sicilian Brides'
Trousseau"

> Whose was it, 

No one is quite sure on an individual level. It has
some kind of connection to a convent, but it's not
quite clear to me what that connection really is. They
figure it likely was a middle/lower class girl whom
had learned to sew at the convent. I'm still not
entirely certain of this connection though. 
It simply is a collection of under and night garments
made by likely one person, a possible second one
helping out, meant for a bride. However I see no
evidence of any of it ever being used for more than a
short period of time. Either that wedding was some
special or she never got married.

where 
> was it made, 

It is classified generally in previously printed
materials as 16th c. Italian but it's actually 16th c.
Sicily. Arnold features a photo of the drawers in QEWU
and the Cunningtons in History of Underwear, amongst
others.

and where is it currently located?

The Metropolitan Museum of New York, Costume Institute
currently holds it.

My apologies for my ever exuberance. :">

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
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Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 01:07:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Underwear, Demystified
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Sharon,

I believe that the Realm of Venus website has a couple
of the photos scanned from these books:
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd by Janet Arnold
The History of Underclothes by Cunnington (a husband
and wife team)
There are a couple of other smaller publications as
well, one in German I believe. 
I have literally hundreds of photos of this
collection, but since I intend to publish at some
point, I am confined by their copyright. Until I know
exactly what their limits are, I can't show off my new
prized possessions. I am hoping I can draw images from
the photos to avoid copyright chaos. I plan on
contacting their images department to sort that out
soon.

Kathy

> Having recently joined the group, Where can I see
> pics of this underwear?

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion
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Status: RO

(snip)
How about wearing "everyday clothing" from your chosen time period?
Not as much fun as a ball gown, but...

Just think, people may think you are making a "statement" or you are
just weird.  At least it would be a "good weird".

Susan

I've been doing something along those lines this winter.  We've had a rather 
cold winter(by Pacific NW standards, ok, we don't have real winters here) 
and my fibromyalgia, arthritis and recent surgery have made me feel the cold 
rather badly.  I have had my normal winter uniform of leggings under long 
skirts and boots, topped with layered sweaters just hasn't been working. 
For one thing, the fibro has been acting up enough that I can't stand to 
have most of my leggings next to my skin.  So, I pulled out my 17th century 
drawers and long hose and petticoats and find that I am toasty warm, and the 
local Goth kids think I look cool and want to know where I got my stuff.

Melusine 

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Subject: [h-cost] period fastenings again
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Status: RO

At first, I'd like to thank everybody who gave me an advice about this topic, it helped a lot and made me to search for more and more information - that's actually why I'm writing again: I've found a few web pages on this topic which might be helpful to those who are interested, too. The last one is a message board only on this topic. VERY recommended:-))
   
  Zuzana
   
  http://inventors.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.white%2Denterprises.org/EDUCATE/buttons.html
   
  http://inventors.about.com/library/weekly/aa082497.htm
   
  http://inventors.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.aarf.com/febutt98.htm
   
  http://inventors.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.florilegium.org/files/CLOTHING/fasteners%2Dmsg.html
   

		
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion and black color
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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As you were talking about black, I remembered a movie about Nero - I don't remember when it was made, I guess in the 90s, but that's not so important. The movie was really, really bad and the thing that got me into thinking was that when somebody of tyhe emperor's family died, all people were then wearing black as an expression of sadness. The thing is, I think I read somewhere that black started to be a "mourning dress color" in the 16th century and that it was kind of invented by one woman who's name I unfortunately don't remember. But that's all a long time ago and I might be wrong. Anyway, does anybody know something about that? Was it possible in Nero's period to wear a black mourning dress?
   
  Many thanks
  Zuzana

		
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Taschen books
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Ask them.

Jo.

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~


--- "Kate Cole" <mrscakehole@hotmail.com> wrote:

I've got the Fashion book, then saw the two-volume set on special offer (I 
think it was 9.99 GBP) at Borders. Despite the fantastic price, I flipped 
through it and saw only a couple of extra pictures that weren't in the 
Fashion book and decided it wasn't worth having both. But of the two, I 
think the two-volume set may be slightly bigger.

I don't see how Borders could sell the two volumes separately as they are 
packed together in a box cover - they probably only list it as the first 
volume for some computer-related reason. But unless they're going to send 
you a box cover with only one book in it, which would be very peculiar 
indeed, I'd bet it's both. Plus, the whole thing was shrink-wrapped in 
Borders - I had to hunt round the whole shop to find one that was open so I 
could look at it.

Hope this helps,

Kate


>Message: 10
>Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 22:03:46 -0500
>From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Fashion book - any difference between
>	editions?

>This may have been covered before, but just in case:
>
>Is there any real difference between this edition of the Kyoto Costume
>Institute's "Fashion":
><http://www.taschen.com/pages/en/catalogue/books/design/all/facts/01839.htm>
>
>And the two volume in a slipcase edition?:
><http://www.taschen.com/pages/en/catalogue/books/design/all/facts/04401.htm>
>
>I ask because I've had the former on order with Borders.com for over
>two months and it doesn't look like they'll be able to get it. The
>first volume of the second edition is listed, but no mention is made
>at the Border's site that it includes both volumes. Please advise.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Allison T.
>
>


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As to it's not showing much evidence of wear--another alternative is that the bride died not too long after the wedding.
 
Ann Wass 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 00:48:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Underwear, Demystified


Im a goober. *LOL*

In my enthusiasm I kinda FORGOT to mention the
fundamental information:

> What underwear collection are you talking about? 

The collection is referred to as the "Sicilian Brides'
Trousseau"

> Whose was it, 

No one is quite sure on an individual level. It has
some kind of connection to a convent, but it's not
quite clear to me what that connection really is. They
figure it likely was a middle/lower class girl whom
had learned to sew at the convent. I'm still not
entirely certain of this connection though. 
It simply is a collection of under and night garments
made by likely one person, a possible second one
helping out, meant for a bride. However I see no
evidence of any of it ever being used for more than a
short period of time. Either that wedding was some
special or she never got married.

where 
> was it made, 

It is classified generally in previously printed
materials as 16th c. Italian but it's actually 16th c.
Sicily. Arnold features a photo of the drawers in QEWU
and the Cunningtons in History of Underwear, amongst
others.

and where is it currently located?

The Metropolitan Museum of New York, Costume Institute
currently holds it.

My apologies for my ever exuberance. :">

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or 
barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It?s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is 
an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to 
receive it.
-Ivan Panin


    

    
        
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion
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Re the color black, some of you might find the chapter on "Black" in Anne
Hollander's book "Seeing Through Clothes" to be very interesting..I myself
have found the book to be very fascinating as well as useful for the social
historian, in general.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion


>
> > I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: " People wear black
> > because it reflects the mood of the times."
> >
>
> The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do so
> because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They want
> to look nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking colors
> or textures. Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they stay with
> safe neutral colors.
>
> As for dressing up in historic costume but not in real life, I rarely
> have RL chances to wear long gowns, silk dresses , beaded fabrics or
> anything requiring a crinoline. But costume events give me several
> chances a year to get decked out in something fancy and original. It's
> not that I don't want to wear ball gowns, I just don't get to many State
> Dinners or Coronations. :)
>
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French seams
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Thank you.  That is earlier than I have been able to find also. What 
country was the garment from?

While I'm glad to see an attempt at finishing raw edges and seams in SCA 
costuming, almost no one seems (pun, sorry) to do period appropriate 
finishes... even if they stitch it by hand.

Beth

At 12:08 AM 2/26/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 22:02:59 -0500
>From: annbwass@aol.com
>
>I have seen one on an early 19th century (probably 1805-1820) sheer 
>fabric.  Frankly, I was surprised--didn't expect it even that early.
>
>Ann Wass

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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
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One of the things that frustrates me, is that clothing designers/manufacturers ( at least here in Australia ) generally don't seem to realise that plus sized women are *not* all the same SHAPE. The mainstream plus size fashion available here seems to be designed for the women who because of their weight are 'tubular' or straight-up-and-down. ( I know that there are some companies in the US who have designs that suit different shapes - don't you love the Web? ) This is why I tend to live in trousers and stretch fabric shirts. If I manage to find a button up shirt that goes over my bottom half, it is usually far, far too big around the chest and under the arms. ( I am much larger around the bottom than the top. ) With t-shirts, strangely enough, this doesn't seem to be a problem.

And even when ( if get my act together ) I get back to the size I should be, I'll be a size 16-18, 70-80kgs, and will probably have to resort to size 20 for long sleeved shirts. ( I am tall, long armed and long legged. As a girl in highschool, I had to wear boys white long-sleeved shirts - eg mens business shirts -for my winter uniform, as the ones for girls weren't long enough in the arms for me. Oddly, this didn't bother me as much as the fact that at about age 14 I had to get boys black lace-up shoes - the ones I liked which were styled for girls weren't made to womens' size 10. I still have shoe issues..... )

Another favourite gripe of mine is the higher-end Australian plus-size designer whose sizes are 1-2 sizes smaller than reality. And this woman is a plus size herself now, which is why she started her fashion business.

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~


--- "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca> wrote:

Kimiko,

	Ah! Another square peg! How delightful!

	You're on the petite end; I'm on the Rubenesque end. When I walk
into a Penningtons or any other plus size store, I get so frustrated with
the designers of these clothes trying to shove large ladies into mini-skirts
and tubular trousers, skirts and dresses. Have they ever looked at the women
for whom they're designing? We're not tubular! No way. No how. Consequently
a woman comes out with clothes that are either too baggy or too tight so
that she looks either like a clown or a tart. Neither of these are looks I'm
going for.

	And if I purchase a blazer for $100.00+, I want it to be lined,
thank you, with more than a serged seam and buttons that fall off after the
first wearing, and not to be made of polyester so that when a hot flash hits
I don't feel like I'm wearing a plastic bag.

	Consequently the current 'dress' jacket I'm making myself has been
on the embroidery frame for several months now, based on an early 18th
century men's frock coat, but with straight sleeves, made of ivory silk/wool
twill and embroidered with rust/orange and real gold. It will take me the
rest of the year to finish, but when I do I will have an original garment
that will be timeless and last me at least a decade, especially given the
few number of special functions I attend.

	And then I'll spend most of April in the studio making myself a
series of new summer dresses (I've lost 30 pounds and am counting) because
the old ones are either worn or too big. Simple cottons, a bit of beading, a
bit of trim. Voila.

	Then come September I'm probably going to have to make some new
winter trousers and shirts, with the hope I've lost more weight and will
need a new wardrobe. And these will wear very well. Unlike the stupid cords
I purchased from Penningtons. Argh.

Regards,
Lorina


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French seams
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At 13:33 26/02/2006, you wrote:
>Thank you.  That is earlier than I have been able to find also. What 
>country was the garment from?
>
>While I'm glad to see an attempt at finishing raw edges and seams in 
>SCA costuming, almost no one seems (pun, sorry) to do period 
>appropriate finishes... even if they stitch it by hand.
>
>Beth
>
>At 12:08 AM 2/26/2006, you wrote:
>>Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 22:02:59 -0500
>>From: annbwass@aol.com
>>
>>I have seen one on an early 19th century (probably 1805-1820) sheer 
>>fabric.  Frankly, I was surprised--didn't expect it even that early.
>>
>>Ann Wass
I have a net Spencer from about the same sort of date. Probably 
English, but I seem to remember that the seams were "finished". Some 
were bound, I'm sure. Would you like me to look it out and check. If 
they are french seams I could photograph it for you.

Suzi 


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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion
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See?   Progress in small increments!

And you are warm, too!

Hope you are feeling better.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 26, 2006, at 2:29 AM, Carmen Beaudry wrote:

> (snip)
> How about wearing "everyday clothing" from your chosen time period?
> Not as much fun as a ball gown, but...
>
> Just think, people may think you are making a "statement" or you are
> just weird.  At least it would be a "good weird".
>
> Susan
>
> I've been doing something along those lines this winter.  We've had a 
> rather cold winter(by Pacific NW standards, ok, we don't have real 
> winters here) and my fibromyalgia, arthritis and recent surgery have 
> made me feel the cold rather badly.  I have had my normal winter 
> uniform of leggings under long skirts and boots, topped with layered 
> sweaters just hasn't been working. For one thing, the fibro has been 
> acting up enough that I can't stand to have most of my leggings next 
> to my skin.  So, I pulled out my 17th century drawers and long hose 
> and petticoats and find that I am toasty warm, and the local Goth kids 
> think I look cool and want to know where I got my stuff.
>
> Melusine
> _______________________________________________
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>Is Folkwear's Cossack pattern still available?

	In a word, no. Sigh.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Cossack coat
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>Do you mean like the 60's type coat that I remember Barbie dolls wearing?

	Nope, I mean the original.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French seams
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Status: RO

Thanks Suzi. I would appreciate it.

Beth

>Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 14:10:34 +0000
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>
>I have a net Spencer from about the same sort of date. Probably
>English, but I seem to remember that the seams were "finished". Some
>were bound, I'm sure. Would you like me to look it out and check. If
>they are french seams I could photograph it for you.
>
>Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French seams
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At 16:28 26/02/2006, you wrote:
>Thanks Suzi. I would appreciate it.
>
>Beth
>
>>Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 14:10:34 +0000
>>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>>
>>I have a net Spencer from about the same sort of date. Probably
>>English, but I seem to remember that the seams were "finished". Some
>>were bound, I'm sure. Would you like me to look it out and check. If
>>they are french seams I could photograph it for you.
>>
>>Suzi


I cannot seem to get mail to your private address. And this list does 
not allow pictures. Please mail me off list so I can send pix when I 
have taken them.

Suzi 


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>Watch it!  I made one of those!  It was dark gray wool, had princess seams,
and I put a real >Persian lamb collar on it.

	No worries, Ann. I plan to make mine from dark chocolate cashmere
and mink on the collar. I have a lovely black mink and sable fur hat, round
crown and big brim, that looks vaguely Russian or Mongolian, so I would like
to build a coat to go with it. I wear the hat all the time in the winter.
Very warm.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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Sorry about the late reply.

You might find this link useful. You can enlarge/decrease the picture by clicking on the + and - symbols, and move around the picture to see details by clicking on the arrows. It's a lovely, clear picture.

http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=elizabeth&object=404444&row=4&detail=magnify

Hope this helps.

Joannah 

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~

--- "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:

Thank you for the description. I still wonder how the sleeves are attached. 
There is no strap showing. Is the pearl necklace in her bodice or is it 
attached to the edges of a very translarent partlet? One description said 
the beading trim was attached to the under layer. What under layer? Was it 
attached to a chemise or smock? I don't see any of it except for the poofs 
of white.
I found a pdf of the costume by Nina ????. It has a white chemise with 
blackwork on it as suggested undergarments. Is this right? I don't know. 
Since she does so much research and garb work, I assume she knows what she 
is talking about in this portrait.
Is she wearing earrings or is the trim on her hood?
I found the perfect cloth that is the same color and pattern in the 
portrait. That was a big start on the costume. I don't know if i can find 
gfabric for the front and undersleeves. I guess I could embroider it myself. 
I'd rather not have to do that much work by hand.


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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 12:23:36 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Ladies,

It seems that with all this talent and frustration, it is time for a 
true "real size" and quality oriented person to start a business that 
caters to the "one- size doesn't fit all" group.
If women knew there was quality and fit, as well as style available, 
don't you think they would respond favorably and make someone happy as 
well as rich?!

Ebay comes to mind as an inexpensive marketing tool to reach the masses.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 26, 2006, at 8:55 AM, Joannah Hansen wrote:

> One of the things that frustrates me, is that clothing 
> designers/manufacturers ( at least here in Australia ) generally don't 
> seem to realise that plus sized women are *not* all the same SHAPE. 
> The mainstream plus size fashion available here seems to be designed 
> for the women who because of their weight are 'tubular' or 
> straight-up-and-down. ( I know that there are some companies in the US 
> who have designs that suit different shapes - don't you love the Web? 
> ) This is why I tend to live in trousers and stretch fabric shirts. If 
> I manage to find a button up shirt that goes over my bottom half, it 
> is usually far, far too big around the chest and under the arms. ( I 
> am much larger around the bottom than the top. ) With t-shirts, 
> strangely enough, this doesn't seem to be a problem.
>
> And even when ( if get my act together ) I get back to the size I 
> should be, I'll be a size 16-18, 70-80kgs, and will probably have to 
> resort to size 20 for long sleeved shirts. ( I am tall, long armed and 
> long legged. As a girl in highschool, I had to wear boys white 
> long-sleeved shirts - eg mens business shirts -for my winter uniform, 
> as the ones for girls weren't long enough in the arms for me. Oddly, 
> this didn't bother me as much as the fact that at about age 14 I had 
> to get boys black lace-up shoes - the ones I liked which were styled 
> for girls weren't made to womens' size 10. I still have shoe 
> issues..... )
>
> Another favourite gripe of mine is the higher-end Australian plus-size 
> designer whose sizes are 1-2 sizes smaller than reality. And this 
> woman is a plus size herself now, which is why she started her fashion 
> business.
>
> Joannah
>
> ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~
>
>
> --- "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca> wrote:
>
> Kimiko,
>
>     Ah! Another square peg! How delightful!
>
>     You're on the petite end; I'm on the Rubenesque end. When I walk
> into a Penningtons or any other plus size store, I get so frustrated 
> with
> the designers of these clothes trying to shove large ladies into 
> mini-skirts
> and tubular trousers, skirts and dresses. Have they ever looked at the 
> women
> for whom they're designing? We're not tubular! No way. No how. 
> Consequently
> a woman comes out with clothes that are either too baggy or too tight 
> so
> that she looks either like a clown or a tart. Neither of these are 
> looks I'm
> going for.
>
>     And if I purchase a blazer for $100.00+, I want it to be lined,
> thank you, with more than a serged seam and buttons that fall off 
> after the
> first wearing, and not to be made of polyester so that when a hot 
> flash hits
> I don't feel like I'm wearing a plastic bag.
>
>     Consequently the current 'dress' jacket I'm making myself has been
> on the embroidery frame for several months now, based on an early 18th
> century men's frock coat, but with straight sleeves, made of ivory 
> silk/wool
> twill and embroidered with rust/orange and real gold. It will take me 
> the
> rest of the year to finish, but when I do I will have an original 
> garment
> that will be timeless and last me at least a decade, especially given 
> the
> few number of special functions I attend.
>
>     And then I'll spend most of April in the studio making myself a
> series of new summer dresses (I've lost 30 pounds and am counting) 
> because
> the old ones are either worn or too big. Simple cottons, a bit of 
> beading, a
> bit of trim. Voila.
>
>     Then come September I'm probably going to have to make some new
> winter trousers and shirts, with the hope I've lost more weight and 
> will
> need a new wardrobe. And these will wear very well. Unlike the stupid 
> cords
> I purchased from Penningtons. Argh.
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community!
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You might try this place:

 _www.reconstructinghistory.com_  (http://www.reconstructinghistory.com)  sells patterns, and they have a line of ones for Poland. The Giermak & Delia are now ready. 

Katheryne

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Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 18:41:43 +0000
From: rwfranz <rwfranz@hotpop.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
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Status: RO

Yup...

Coni Almaden-Crawford, at http://www.fashionpatterns.com/ gives seminars 
on patternmaking and draping and has a pattern line based on the figure 
of a mature woman. The seminar she gave here in Fresno was *really* 
informative, and I got a lot out of it (bought both her books, too).

Roger

Joannah Hansen wrote:

>One of the things that frustrates me, is that clothing designers/manufacturers ( at least here in Australia ) generally don't seem to realise that plus sized women are *not* all the same SHAPE. The mainstream plus size fashion available here seems to be designed for the women who because of their weight are 'tubular' or straight-up-and-down. ( I know that there are some companies in the US who have designs that suit different shapes - don't you love the Web? ) This is why I tend to live in trousers and stretch fabric shirts. If I manage to find a button up shirt that goes over my bottom half, it is usually far, far too big around the chest and under the arms. ( I am much larger around the bottom than the top. ) With t-shirts, strangely enough, this doesn't seem to be a problem.
>
>And even when ( if get my act together ) I get back to the size I should be, I'll be a size 16-18, 70-80kgs, and will probably have to resort to size 20 for long sleeved shirts. ( I am tall, long armed and long legged. As a girl in highschool, I had to wear boys white long-sleeved shirts - eg mens business shirts -for my winter uniform, as the ones for girls weren't long enough in the arms for me. Oddly, this didn't bother me as much as the fact that at about age 14 I had to get boys black lace-up shoes - the ones I liked which were styled for girls weren't made to womens' size 10. I still have shoe issues..... )
>
>Another favourite gripe of mine is the higher-end Australian plus-size designer whose sizes are 1-2 sizes smaller than reality. And this woman is a plus size herself now, which is why she started her fashion business.
>  
>
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At 01:03 PM 2/25/2006, you wrote:
>The great thing about it is that it DOESN'T take much time because you 
>don't have to enter ALL the information on 99% of the books. It will look 
>them up for you! All I've needed to type in is the titles, and it pulls 
>them right up.


The same goes for Book Collector; you just enter the ISBN number if the 
book has one, and it does the search. You can even chose which online 
sources it pulls info from. For example, if you lived in France, you could 
chose the French amazon.com for info, while I do the American one. I can 
put in personal notes, synopsis, how much it cost me, where I bought it 
from, how much it is currently worth, have I read it or not, who has 
borrowed it, what kind of review rank I want to give the book, different 
categories, does it have a dust jacket or CD or what have you, and even 
customizable info that I chose. Lots of info, about half of it pulled in 
from whatever online sources are available, and the rest filled in by me. 
In some ways it may be an overload of info, but I rather like that.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]was  Re:patterns now clothing and shoes
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At 08:28 PM 2/25/2006, you wrote:
>It's the Medieval Conference at Kalamazoo that gives me the most 
>problems.  Every other place I sell books, I'm wearing medieval or 
>Renaissance SCA clothes, but there modern clothing is all I've ever 
>seen.  Some of the participants (professors who already have tenure?) slum 
>it in jeans and tee shirts but since there is a lot of professional 
>networking going on, most dress better than that.  Trying to find clothes 
>that look somewhat professional, that I can work in all day, with 
>variations for unpredictable climatic conditions (one year it was up to 90 
>on the first week of May) and that I already own makes me crazy!  It's so 
>much easier to dress in costume!
>
>Janet


Hi Janet,

I am not sure if it would work for you, but I am remembering seeing Prof. 
Tara McGinnis at Costume College for her lecture on photography and 
costumes. She was dressed in a nice black frock-coat with a white shirt I 
think, and dark pants, with her hair pulled back a bit, iirc. It was that 
coat that was just the perfect period accent to an otherwise modern getup. 
I have her photo around here somewhere, but not online. And just in writing 
this, I may have to make something similar for myself, although frock coats 
are not my period.

hth,

Kimiko


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]was  Re:patterns now clothing and shoes
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On Sat, 25 Feb 2006, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:

> It's the Medieval Conference at Kalamazoo that gives me the most
> problems.  Every other place I sell books, I'm wearing medieval or
> Renaissance SCA clothes, but there modern clothing is all I've ever
> seen.  Some of the participants (professors who already have tenure?)
> slum it in jeans and tee shirts but since there is a lot of
> professional networking going on, most dress better than that.  

In my experience, most of the people in jeans and tee shirts are (a)
graduate students, (b) spouses, (c) hobbyists/independents such as SCA
members, (d) vendors, and (e) local residents (who, I believe, are allowed
free attendance to the conference). Not to say that all of these people
wear jeans and t-shirts -- not at all -- but that if you see that look,
it's almost certainly on one of these.

The overwhelming majority of faculty members wear "nice casual." For the
women, that's casual dresses, or slacks or skirts with blouses/sweaters. A
sizable number of the men wear ties, often with casual jackets; suits are
rarer. People who are presenting papers often dress up more on their
presentation day.

I have always made it a point to dress on the nicer end because, as an
independent scholar, I needed to send signals that would suggest "I'm here
on business" rather than "I'm just here for fun" -- and my hair is
distinctly nonprofessional and nonconservative, so I have to balance it! I
wear casual dresses with cardigans, skirts and sweaters or shells with
blazers, and often a suit when I present papers or preside over sessions.

Because I work at home, conference wear is the closest thing I have to
office clothes. I try to sew a new outfit or two each year so I'm not
always showing up in the same clothes every time, but I confess there are
certain packable outfits that end up in my Kalamazoo suitcase year after
year. This year I have a new dress half-finished and a vest-and-skirt
outfit partly cut out. We'll see if either of them get done before the
Congress -- I have a lot of other things to do in the next two months.

About that vest-and-skirt outfit: I am tempted to cut the skirt as
culottes, so I can use a line I heard by Shelly Nordtorp-Madson years ago.
She stood up in front of a room full of mixed British and American costume
scholars and said "Since I'm going to be addressing the issue of
terminology, I was tempted to dress for this paper in knickers and a
vest."

--Robin



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified
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On Sat, 25 Feb 2006, Kathy Page wrote:

> I think that's it for now, I hope I have taken care of the immediate
> burning questions.  I so far have approximate yardage requirements and
> cutting layouts scribbled out.  Next will be to stew the rest of the
> information into something more palatable and to make mock ups to
> confirm my theories.  Once that's done...  I'll be ready to start
> writing it into a final finding paper.  :-D

Which you will be presenting ... where?

A broad hit brought to you by the organizer of the "Dress and Textiles"
track at the International Congress on Medieval Studies at Kalamazoo.

(And yes, it's a very good idea to present before you publish. It's like a
first layer of peer review.)

--Robin


==========================================================
Robin Netherton 
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
robin@nightowl.net
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1333
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 12:16:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Underwear, Demystified
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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>
> Okay, the cool stuff everyone has been looking forward
> to: Underwear Mythbusting.

Kathy,

I finally was able to look at the pictures on Bella's website and see what
you were talking about in your post.  How totally cool that you were able
to find out this info for yourself but also share it with us!  Thanks!

And I will certainly buy your book when it comes out ;~>

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Cossack coat
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Katheryne,

	Yep, know Reconstructing History very well. We carry Kass's line of
patterns in our online catalogue. :-) Failing all else, I'll use the kontusz
for the Cossack coat. 

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cossack Coat and other topics
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Status: RO

Have you looked at Vogue 1266 or 7979 for your coat pattern?

For something to wear at Kalamazoo--how about one of Reconstructing History's Elizabethan jackets over a pair of pants?

Speaking of square pegs--I'm just over 5'2'' and most of the 35 excess pounds I carry are in the mid section.  What fits in the waist is way too big elsewhere.  Oh to be a pear rather than an apple, life would be much easier. My other pet peeve with current fashion is the lack of reasonably priced clothes for older women.  My Mom is 88 yrs old and about 100 lbs.  Try finding something petite enough but still covered up.  A lot of her older friends have problems finding dresses with sleeves and longer skirts.  I think there is a real niche market there as more and more people are living active lives into there 80's and 90's.

                                           Anna von Argenthal
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Underwear, Demystified
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Thanks!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kathy Page
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 10:08 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Underwear, Demystified


Sharon,

I believe that the Realm of Venus website has a couple
of the photos scanned from these books:
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd by Janet Arnold
The History of Underclothes by Cunnington (a husband
and wife team)
There are a couple of other smaller publications as
well, one in German I believe. 
I have literally hundreds of photos of this
collection, but since I intend to publish at some
point, I am confined by their copyright. Until I know
exactly what their limits are, I can't show off my new
prized possessions. I am hoping I can draw images from
the photos to avoid copyright chaos. I plan on
contacting their images department to sort that out
soon.

Kathy

> Having recently joined the group, Where can I see
> pics of this underwear?

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It's never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there
is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to
receive it. -Ivan Panin


	

	
		
__________________________________________________________ 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing 
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obviously doens't apply to all, but bravissimo in the UK (bras in cups D and 
above) have been doing clothing for a while now, and their suits are a godsend 
if you're of ample bosom(!!!), and have the old 'if it fits on the waist it 
gapes over the chesr' thing.  

They come in normal sizes, with an extra sizing of curvy and super curvy, 
dependant on cup size.  I just wish they'd expand the normal sizes they cover up 
a bit (I'm about the top end, and I'm only a UK size 16, (not counting chest!) 
so not *that* huge.

but it the things that really irritate me (probably in equal measure) is the 
assumption that if you get bigger, you somehow magically get taller too; and 
the retailers that stop at a size 14UK (or who think that a size 12UK is 
'large').

debs





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Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 23:52:29 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing 
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At 23:44 26/02/2006, you wrote:
>obviously doens't apply to all, but bravissimo in the UK (bras in cups D and
>above) have been doing clothing for a while now, and their suits are 
>a godsend
>if you're of ample bosom(!!!), and have the old 'if it fits on the waist it
>gapes over the chesr' thing.
>
>They come in normal sizes, with an extra sizing of curvy and super curvy,
>dependant on cup size.  I just wish they'd expand the normal sizes 
>they cover up
>a bit (I'm about the top end, and I'm only a UK size 16, (not 
>counting chest!)
>so not *that* huge.
>
>but it the things that really irritate me (probably in equal measure) is the
>assumption that if you get bigger, you somehow magically get taller too; and
>the retailers that stop at a size 14UK (or who think that a size 12UK is
>'large').

I am always cutting 6" off the bottoms of things because I am an 
American size 20/22, and only 5'4", not the Amazonian height Debs 
complains of. Also I don't have huge shoulders, just 'cos I take a D cup!!

Suzi 


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Sorry I don't remember for sure which collection it was.  I think it was American, but am not sure.
 
Ann Wass 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 07:33:42 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French seams


Thank you. That is earlier than I have been able to find also. What country was the garment from? 
 
While I'm glad to see an attempt at finishing raw edges and seams in SCA costuming, almost no one seems (pun, sorry) to do period appropriate finishes... even if they stitch it by hand. 
 
Beth 
 
At 12:08 AM 2/26/2006, you wrote: 
>Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 22:02:59 -0500 
>From: annbwass@aol.com 
> 
>I have seen one on an early 19th century (probably 1805-1820) sheer >fabric. Frankly, I was surprised--didn't expect it even that early. 
> 
>Ann Wass 
 
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Oh, mine was really something.  The lining was a (GASP!) gray cable pattern bonded knit--I think I chose that primarily for low cost, but also for warmth.  
The only thing that would have been worse is if it had been maxi length.   
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Five Rivers Chapmanry <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 10:55:08 -0500
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Cossack coat


>Watch it!  I made one of those!  It was dark gray wool, had princess seams,
and I put a real >Persian lamb collar on it.

    No worries, Ann. I plan to make mine from dark chocolate cashmere
and mink on the collar. I have a lovely black mink and sable fur hat, round
crown and big brim, that looks vaguely Russian or Mongolian, so I would like
to build a coat to go with it. I wear the hat all the time in the winter.
Very warm.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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This is great! She's wearing a gold bracelet on her left wrist.You can
barely see it. And from the way the wrist opening is painted you can tell
that the white puffs on the false sleeve is not the chemise sleeve.
Most excellent find. Thank you!
De

-----Original Message-----
Sorry about the late reply.

You might find this link useful. You can enlarge/decrease the picture by
clicking on the + and - symbols, and move around the picture to see details
by clicking on the arrows. It's a lovely, clear picture.

http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=elizabeth&o
bject=404444&row=4&detail=magnify

Hope this helps.

Joannah

~


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From: "Julie Tamura" <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 19:49:41 -0800
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-----Original Message-----
> 
> I don't need an insurance inventory, fortunately!

Well, everybody might need to claim insurance some day. My in-laws' 
house burned down in the firestorm in the East Bay some years ago, and 
it turned out their policy required listing every single item they 
wanted to claim, down to the skillets and the towels--along with current 
values. I'm well aware how much work that is, because I did most of it. 
  
I'd like to second that.  I learned that hard lesson after the San Diego
fires in 2003.  The insurance company expected us to list each and every
item we'd lost AND give them an idea of what they were worth.  They also
wanted to see the burned carcasses or photos of same. They had a hard time
believing $1000 for a tent and hundreds for period camping furniture.
Fortunately the books weren't touched.
Julie in Ramona/San Diego

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing 
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 00:06:10 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Ditto-but I am 5'2"

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 26, 2006, at 6:52 PM, Suzi Clarke wrote:

>>
>
> I am always cutting 6" off the bottoms of things because I am an 
> American size 20/22, and only 5'4", not the Amazonian height Debs 
> complains of. Also I don't have huge shoulders, just 'cos I take a D 
> cup!!
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Status: RO

Well.... frankly, since this is my first crack at the
really serious, I know what I'd *like* to do with it
just not quite sure how to achieve the goal. That's
kinda where my mentor steps in and starts pointing in
the right directions. *grins big at Susan* Hope your
cat herding skills are sharp. ;-) 

I want to start smaller first; I have my Bocksten Bog
Man paper written a couple years ago that I would like
to modify into publishable format through TI or CA
(SCA publications for those not involved in the group)
and see if hard core editing of my blood sweat and
tears is something I can handle. I also need a fast
and dirty lesson or two on publishing issues and
copyright laws. That is a completely foreign language
to me. The Met are aware of my goals and weren't
shocked by them, which is a positive step in the right
direction.

I have little clue what K'zoo will expect out of a
presentation - but yes, that is one of my goals. I've
already been told that going just as a spectator to
get a grip of how things are done first is my best
bet, so I hope to wind up there this year. By that
time, I should be part way through stewing this stuff
into something palatable and still able to modify the
current draft to better fit expectations. I should
know if I am able to present at the following year
right about the time you are organising things. :-)
Ultimately, I do want this published so that those who
can't necessarily see this stuff in person can run
with it based on clinical evidence.


Once that's done...  I'll be
> ready to start
> > writing it into a final finding paper.  :-D
> 
> Which you will be presenting ... where?
<snip>
> (And yes, it's a very good idea to present before
> you publish. It's like a
> first layer of peer review.)

I giggled like a school girl when I read this. That is
the best encouragement I could get. *big grin* 

> And I will certainly buy your book when it comes out
> ;~>

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: sizing/quality of clothing
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Status: RO

I'm on the other end - plus size but tall (5' 11").  If it comes in 
talls, it only goes to U.S. size 16 or 18.  Almost none of the plus 
sizes come in talls.  In fact, they're often shorter in arm and leg 
than non-plus sizes, and the armholes are so big they cover half the 
bust as well.  Which means when you raise your arm, the whole thing 
hikes up.  Then with the obsession with putting spandex in 
everything, and cutting it shorter in the hem as well, leaves me with 
midriff tops that show every bulge.  Yuck!!

I was SO happy when my workplace went to casual dress.  I now live in 
knit pants and either T-shirts, polo shirts, or sweatshirts, 
depending on weather.  We may even wear shorts in summer.  I own 
'one' pair of jeans, and that purchased only recently when I found a 
catalog that had Plus Talls.  I buy men's coats and casual shirts to 
get the length.  I do wish that there was SOMETHING available that 
was stylish and comfortable for us plus sizes.  I don't make everyday 
clothes because I sew very slowly and barely get the needed costumes done.

Thanks for listening to my rant.

Sandy

At 11:06 PM 2/26/2006, you wrote:

>Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 18:44:57 EST
>From: Debloughcostumes@aol.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
>
>but it the things that really irritate me (probably in equal measure) is the
>assumption that if you get bigger, you somehow magically get taller too; and
>the retailers that stop at a size 14UK (or who think that a size 12UK is
>'large').
>
>debs
>
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
>
>I am always cutting 6" off the bottoms of things because I am an
>American size 20/22, and only 5'4", not the Amazonian height Debs
>complains of. Also I don't have huge shoulders, just 'cos I take a D cup!!
>
>Suzi

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<6.2.3.4.2.20060227000140.02f8bb20@pop.radiks.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sizing/quality of clothing
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 01:32:20 -0500
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Status: RO

Sandy,

I hear you girl!  I wear a 14 or 16 depending on the cut.  I am 5' 10".  I 
have been buying men's pants and shirts for years.  You can dress them up to 
make them look feminine.  Women's pants are too short in length and the 
sleeves are too short.

The other day I heard on a fashion show that 12 is considered a plus size. 
I think I was born a size 12 in clothing and shoes.  Actually I crammed my 
feet into size 10 until a few years. Now I could find size 12 shoes at 
places like DSW.  Most people look at me and think or ask if I wear a size 0 
or 2.  I am not round but wide and thin.  I weigh the most I have every 
weighed and people still think I am underweight.

My 5 y.o. granddaughter is going to have the same problem.  She has my long 
legs and arms.  Tonight I pulled her pants up because they were falling off 
of her.  She said, "Grandma, I can never get pants to work right.  They are 
either too short or too big in the waist."

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 08:18:35 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: sizing/quality of clothing
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Status: RO

At 06:11 27/02/2006, you wrote:
>I'm on the other end - plus size but tall (5' 11").  If it comes in 
>talls, it only goes to U.S. size 16 or 18.  Almost none of the plus 
>sizes come in talls.  In fact, they're often shorter in arm and leg 
>than non-plus sizes, and the armholes are so big they cover half the 
>bust as well.  Which means when you raise your arm, the whole thing 
>hikes up.  Then with the obsession with putting spandex in 
>everything, and cutting it shorter in the hem as well, leaves me 
>with midriff tops that show every bulge.  Yuck!!

This is why I buy clothes whenever I get to the U.S. I like big 
armholes. Maybe we should swap, Sandy, and you come and buy the 
clothes here that I find too long, with small armholes!! Mind you 
trying to get knit pants here is like finding the Holy Grail - you 
kinda feel they are out there ..............


>I was SO happy when my workplace went to casual dress.  I now live 
>in knit pants and either T-shirts, polo shirts, or sweatshirts, 
>depending on weather.  We may even wear shorts in summer.  I own 
>'one' pair of jeans, and that purchased only recently when I found a 
>catalog that had Plus Talls.  I buy men's coats and casual shirts to 
>get the length.  I do wish that there was SOMETHING available that 
>was stylish and comfortable for us plus sizes.  I don't make 
>everyday clothes because I sew very slowly and barely get the needed 
>costumes done.
>
>Thanks for listening to my rant.
>
>Sandy


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	<6.2.3.4.0.20060224134405.01d67f68@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 11:01:10 +0100
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Hi Sue,
I just got back from an event and the book was waiting for me when i got 
home. It is a lovely lovely book, and i will get many ideas from this.
The best of the whole book is for me the embroidered mittens, i want to copy 
these.............

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 2:48 PM
Subject: [h-cost] A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!


>
> I have just received the most wonderful book from Amazon. "18th Century 
> Embroidery Techniques" by Gail Marsh, (ISBN 1 86108 476 5) and am drooling 
> as I type.
>
> The pictures are clear, and there are diagrams. It includes silk 
> embroidery, metal thread and spangles, whitework, quilting, tambour and 
> chain, crewel and novelty threads,Hollie Point and knotting!!
>
> I know there will be other list members interested.
>
> I'm back to my cup of tea and the book.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 05:06:05 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Cossack Coat and other topics
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	I think the Vogue 1266 might just do the ticket. Thanks kindly for
that, Anna.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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<--- rwfranz <rwfranz@hotpop.com> wrote:
<
<Yup...
<
<Coni Almaden-Crawford, at http://www.fashionpatterns.com/ gives seminars 
<on patternmaking and draping and has a pattern line based on the figure 
<of a mature woman. The seminar she gave here in Fresno was *really* 
<informative, and I got a lot out of it (bought both her books, too).
<
<Roger

Wow, Roger, thank-you so much for that link! What a great resource! Thank-you. Patterns that I won't have to do major monkeying with for them to fit. ( And one for scrubs, even - I'm an O.R. nurse. ) 

Woot!  

Joannah. ( sorry, lots of !!!! , but that's how I'm feeling now! ;-> )

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~





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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
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I've thought about it, often.

Joannah.

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~


--- Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:

Ladies,

It seems that with all this talent and frustration, it is time for a 
true "real size" and quality oriented person to start a business that 
caters to the "one- size doesn't fit all" group.
If women knew there was quality and fit, as well as style available, 
don't you think they would respond favorably and make someone happy as 
well as rich?!

Ebay comes to mind as an inexpensive marketing tool to reach the masses.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". Â - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 26, 2006, at 8:55 AM, Joannah Hansen wrote:

> One of the things that frustrates me, is that clothing 
> designers/manufacturers ( at least here in Australia ) generally don't 
> seem to realise that plus sized women are *not* all the same SHAPE. 
> The mainstream plus size fashion available here seems to be designed 
> for the women who because of their weight are 'tubular' or 
> straight-up-and-down. ( I know that there are some companies in the US 
> who have designs that suit different shapes - don't you love the Web? 
> ) This is why I tend to live in trousers and stretch fabric shirts. If 
> I manage to find a button up shirt that goes over my bottom half, it 
> is usually far, far too big around the chest and under the arms. ( I 
> am much larger around the bottom than the top. ) With t-shirts, 
> strangely enough, this doesn't seem to be a problem.
>
> And even when ( if get my act together ) I get back to the size I 
> should be, I'll be a size 16-18, 70-80kgs, and will probably have to 
> resort to size 20 for long sleeved shirts. ( I am tall, long armed and 
> long legged. As a girl in highschool, I had to wear boys white 
> long-sleeved shirts - eg mens business shirts -for my winter uniform, 
> as the ones for girls weren't long enough in the arms for me. Oddly, 
> this didn't bother me as much as the fact that at about age 14 I had 
> to get boys black lace-up shoes - the ones I liked which were styled 
> for girls weren't made to womens' size 10. I still have shoe 
> issues..... )
>
> Another favourite gripe of mine is the higher-end Australian plus-size 
> designer whose sizes are 1-2 sizes smaller than reality. And this 
> woman is a plus size herself now, which is why she started her fashion 
> business.
>
> Joannah
>
> ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~
>
>
> --- "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca> wrote:
>
> Kimiko,
>
>     Ah! Another square peg! How delightful!
>
>     You're on the petite end; I'm on the Rubenesque end. When I walk
> into a Penningtons or any other plus size store, I get so frustrated 
> with
> the designers of these clothes trying to shove large ladies into 
> mini-skirts
> and tubular trousers, skirts and dresses. Have they ever looked at the 
> women
> for whom they're designing? We're not tubular! No way. No how. 
> Consequently
> a woman comes out with clothes that are either too baggy or too tight 
> so
> that she looks either like a clown or a tart. Neither of these are 
> looks I'm
> going for.
>
>     And if I purchase a blazer for $100.00+, I want it to be lined,
> thank you, with more than a serged seam and buttons that fall off 
> after the
> first wearing, and not to be made of polyester so that when a hot 
> flash hits
> I don't feel like I'm wearing a plastic bag.
>
>     Consequently the current 'dress' jacket I'm making myself has been
> on the embroidery frame for several months now, based on an early 18th
> century men's frock coat, but with straight sleeves, made of ivory 
> silk/wool
> twill and embroidered with rust/orange and real gold. It will take me 
> the
> rest of the year to finish, but when I do I will have an original 
> garment
> that will be timeless and last me at least a decade, especially given 
> the
> few number of special functions I attend.
>
>     And then I'll spend most of April in the studio making myself a
> series of new summer dresses (I've lost 30 pounds and am counting) 
> because
> the old ones are either worn or too big. Simple cottons, a bit of 
> beading, a
> bit of trim. Voila.
>
>     Then come September I'm probably going to have to make some new
> winter trousers and shirts, with the hope I've lost more weight and 
> will
> need a new wardrobe. And these will wear very well. Unlike the stupid 
> cords
> I purchased from Penningtons. Argh.
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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You're welcome. :-)

Joannah.

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~


--- "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 20:28:31 -0600
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth

This is great! She's wearing a gold bracelet on her left wrist.You can
barely see it. And from the way the wrist opening is painted you can tell
that the white puffs on the false sleeve is not the chemise sleeve.
Most excellent find. Thank you!
De

-----Original Message-----
Sorry about the late reply.

You might find this link useful. You can enlarge/decrease the picture by
clicking on the + and - symbols, and move around the picture to see details
by clicking on the arrows. It's a lovely, clear picture.

http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=elizabeth&o
bject=404444&row=4&detail=magnify

Hope this helps.

Joannah

~


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Subject: [h-cost] My New Wardrobe
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Since there's been recent talk about people sewing for themselves, I
thought I'd chime in with my two cents worth.  My closet is full of tshirts,
sweatpants and too few nice dress clothes.  So far in my life I haven't
had a job with any type of a dress code so it hasn't been an issue.
However, at some point I probalby will.  Besides, I've dresed this way for
over 10 years and it's time for a change.

I'm making my wardrobe because nothing in the stores ever fits across the
shoulders.  I'm in the process (trial and error) of altering a button up
shirt pattern to fit well.  I might have it after revision #5 or so!

I'm also round in all the wrong places, even for plus sizes, so clothes
don't fit other places, either.  

I'm going to incorporate historic elements into some of my outfits.  I
love the caraco jackets, and have to do something with them!  I discovered
that I like fitted, comfortable clothing that allows a full range of movement.
So while my clothes won't be historic, they will be historically inspired.
Happy fun times with adopting Civil War Era ball gowns to more everyday wear!

Kate
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My New Wardrobe
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I have a plus size friend who can whip up a sideless surcote in a heartbeat.  She makes them just below the knee and wears a blouse (or t-shirt) under it like a jumper.  They look so good, I keep saying I am going to make some myself, but I never seem to get around to sewing for me.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- saka@toysmakeuspowerful.com wrote:

From: saka@toysmakeuspowerful.com
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 09:25:18 -0600
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] My New Wardrobe

Since there's been recent talk about people sewing for themselves, I
thought I'd chime in with my two cents worth.  My closet is full of tshirts,
sweatpants and too few nice dress clothes.  So far in my life I haven't
had a job with any type of a dress code so it hasn't been an issue.
However, at some point I probalby will.  Besides, I've dresed this way for
over 10 years and it's time for a change.

I'm making my wardrobe because nothing in the stores ever fits across the
shoulders.  I'm in the process (trial and error) of altering a button up
shirt pattern to fit well.  I might have it after revision #5 or so!

I'm also round in all the wrong places, even for plus sizes, so clothes
don't fit other places, either.  

I'm going to incorporate historic elements into some of my outfits.  I
love the caraco jackets, and have to do something with them!  I discovered
that I like fitted, comfortable clothing that allows a full range of movement.
So while my clothes won't be historic, they will be historically inspired.
Happy fun times with adopting Civil War Era ball gowns to more everyday wear!

Kate
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_____________________________________________________________
Netscape. just the net you need
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My New Wardrobe
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 11:56:27 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Every revolution starts with the first step.  You go, girl!

Let's see pictures when you finish.  We all need inspiration.

Susan

"My treasures do not clink together or glitter, they gleam in the sun 
and neigh in the night."
Bedouin proverb

Susan
On Feb 27, 2006, at 10:25 AM, saka@toysmakeuspowerful.com wrote:

> Since there's been recent talk about people sewing for themselves, I
> thought I'd chime in with my two cents worth.  My closet is full of 
> tshirts,
> sweatpants and too few nice dress clothes.  So far in my life I haven't
> had a job with any type of a dress code so it hasn't been an issue.
> However, at some point I probalby will.  Besides, I've dresed this way 
> for
> over 10 years and it's time for a change.
>
> I'm making my wardrobe because nothing in the stores ever fits across 
> the
> shoulders.  I'm in the process (trial and error) of altering a button 
> up
> shirt pattern to fit well.  I might have it after revision #5 or so!
>
> I'm also round in all the wrong places, even for plus sizes, so clothes
> don't fit other places, either.
>
> I'm going to incorporate historic elements into some of my outfits.  I
> love the caraco jackets, and have to do something with them!  I 
> discovered
> that I like fitted, comfortable clothing that allows a full range of 
> movement.
> So while my clothes won't be historic, they will be historically 
> inspired.
> Happy fun times with adopting Civil War Era ball gowns to more 
> everyday wear!
>
> Kate
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

Yeah, me too. 5' 11" and a size 20-24 U.S. (depending)

Info for those in the US:
I have had good luck at Lane Bryant's - their shirts and blouses are 
dreadful, but I have two pair of jeans (in a regular length because I 
have relatively short legs) that contain some stretch. Their jeans also 
come in tall. The waist is lowered on everything, if I recall correctly.
I have also managed to find some well-ade wool dress pants at 
Nordstrom's Rack (but it is very very hit or miss).

liz young

Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
> I'm on the other end - plus size but tall (5' 11").  If it comes in 
> talls, it only goes to U.S. size 16 or 18.  Almost none of the plus 
> sizes come in talls.

> I own 'one' pair of jeans, and that purchased only recently when I
> found a catalog that had Plus Talls.  I buy men's coats and casual
> shirts to get the length.

_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:corded corsets
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I made a corded corset (in fact, there used to be a picture of me on the website you referenced) using hemp cord and cotton duck, which is a type of canvas, and I don't remember that the cords shrank the pattern all that much. The only bad thing was that the first time I washed it, it smelled like ship rigging for a week! 
 
Tea Rose
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At 07:25 AM 2/27/2006, you wrote:
>I'm going to incorporate historic elements into some of my outfits.  I
>love the caraco jackets, and have to do something with them!  I discovered
>that I like fitted, comfortable clothing that allows a full range of movement.
>So while my clothes won't be historic, they will be historically inspired.
>Happy fun times with adopting Civil War Era ball gowns to more everyday wear!
>
>Kate


Hi Kate,

I am with you. I realized that while I like the look of Victorian jackets, 
I don't want to wear one over a corset all the time (it's ok for an 
all-Victorian event). So I am going to work on something inspired by them, 
with the back peplums and all, and hopefully make something historically 
inspired as well. I may even do something Renaissance inspired, but I'm not 
sure yet what. I think I will also add in hand embroidery or trimmings as 
well, to spice them up.

And if you figure out how to adapt the CWera gowns to everyday wear, please 
let me know.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Cossack Coat and other topics
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At 02:06 AM 2/27/2006, you wrote:
>    I think the Vogue 1266 might just do the ticket. Thanks kindly for
>that, Anna.
>
>Regards,
>Lorina



Ooooooh... I like that. While I have a nice coat to wear, I may get the 
pattern for my stash anyway.

Thanks for suggesting that one Anna.

Kimiko


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way cool, be sure to post pictures theresa

-----Original Message-----
From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 11:56:27 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My New Wardrobe

  Every revolution starts with the first step. You go, girl!

 Let's see pictures when you finish. We all need inspiration.

 Susan

  "My treasures do not clink together or glitter, they gleam in the sun 
and neigh in the night."
 Bedouin proverb

 Susan
 On Feb 27, 2006, at 10:25 AM, saka@toysmakeuspowerful.com wrote:

 > Since there's been recent talk about people sewing for themselves, I
  > thought I'd chime in with my two cents worth. My closet is full of > 
tshirts,
  > sweatpants and too few nice dress clothes. So far in my life I 
haven't
 > had a job with any type of a dress code so it hasn't been an issue.
  > However, at some point I probalby will. Besides, I've dresed this 
way > for
 > over 10 years and it's time for a change.
 >
  > I'm making my wardrobe because nothing in the stores ever fits 
across > the
  > shoulders. I'm in the process (trial and error) of altering a button 
> up
 > shirt pattern to fit well. I might have it after revision #5 or so!
 >
  > I'm also round in all the wrong places, even for plus sizes, so 
clothes
 > don't fit other places, either.
 >
  > I'm going to incorporate historic elements into some of my outfits. 
I
  > love the caraco jackets, and have to do something with them! I > 
discovered
  > that I like fitted, comfortable clothing that allows a full range of 
> movement.
  > So while my clothes won't be historic, they will be historically > 
inspired.
  > Happy fun times with adopting Civil War Era ball gowns to more > 
everyday wear!
 >
 > Kate
 > _______________________________________________
 > h-costume mailing list
 > h-costume@mail.indra.com
 > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 _______________________________________________
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Ladies,

Let's see what every day wear you come up with that is "historically 
inspired".  You will be great motivators to the rest of us.

CW bodices could be a good choice, made with a little more "ease" than 
is historically accurate.  The full sleeves would be pretty as well as 
easy to wear.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 27, 2006, at 4:09 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:

> At 07:25 AM 2/27/2006, you wrote:
>> I'm going to incorporate historic elements into some of my outfits.  I
>> love the caraco jackets, and have to do something with them!  I 
>> discovered
>> that I like fitted, comfortable clothing that allows a full range of 
>> movement.
>> So while my clothes won't be historic, they will be historically 
>> inspired.
>> Happy fun times with adopting Civil War Era ball gowns to more 
>> everyday wear!
>>
>> Kate
>
>
> Hi Kate,
>
> I am with you. I realized that while I like the look of Victorian 
> jackets, I don't want to wear one over a corset all the time (it's ok 
> for an all-Victorian event). So I am going to work on something 
> inspired by them, with the back peplums and all, and hopefully make 
> something historically inspired as well. I may even do something 
> Renaissance inspired, but I'm not sure yet what. I think I will also 
> add in hand embroidery or trimmings as well, to spice them up.
>
> And if you figure out how to adapt the CWera gowns to everyday wear, 
> please let me know.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Go for it Joannah!

Seems you could start your clothing making business right here with 
this group.  They would appreciate your skills in quality workmanship, 
as well.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 27, 2006, at 7:41 AM, Joannah Hansen wrote:

> I've thought about it, often.
>
> Joannah.
>
> ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~
>
>
> --- Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Ladies,
>
> It seems that with all this talent and frustration, it is time for a
> true "real size" and quality oriented person to start a business that
> caters to the "one- size doesn't fit all" group.
> If women knew there was quality and fit, as well as style available,
> don't you think they would respond favorably and make someone happy as
> well as rich?!
>
> Ebay comes to mind as an inexpensive marketing tool to reach the 
> masses.
>
> Susan
>
> "Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
> too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
> Trail" by Louis L'Amour
>
> On Feb 26, 2006, at 8:55 AM, Joannah Hansen wrote:
>
>> One of the things that frustrates me, is that clothing
>> designers/manufacturers ( at least here in Australia ) generally don't
>> seem to realise that plus sized women are *not* all the same SHAPE.
>> The mainstream plus size fashion available here seems to be designed
>> for the women who because of their weight are 'tubular' or
>> straight-up-and-down. ( I know that there are some companies in the US
>> who have designs that suit different shapes - don't you love the Web?
>> ) This is why I tend to live in trousers and stretch fabric shirts. If
>> I manage to find a button up shirt that goes over my bottom half, it
>> is usually far, far too big around the chest and under the arms. ( I
>> am much larger around the bottom than the top. ) With t-shirts,
>> strangely enough, this doesn't seem to be a problem.
>>
>> And even when ( if get my act together ) I get back to the size I
>> should be, I'll be a size 16-18, 70-80kgs, and will probably have to
>> resort to size 20 for long sleeved shirts. ( I am tall, long armed and
>> long legged. As a girl in highschool, I had to wear boys white
>> long-sleeved shirts - eg mens business shirts -for my winter uniform,
>> as the ones for girls weren't long enough in the arms for me. Oddly,
>> this didn't bother me as much as the fact that at about age 14 I had
>> to get boys black lace-up shoes - the ones I liked which were styled
>> for girls weren't made to womens' size 10. I still have shoe
>> issues..... )
>>
>> Another favourite gripe of mine is the higher-end Australian plus-size
>> designer whose sizes are 1-2 sizes smaller than reality. And this
>> woman is a plus size herself now, which is why she started her fashion
>> business.
>>
>> Joannah
>>
>> ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. 
>> ~*~
>>
>>
>> --- "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca> wrote:
>>
>> Kimiko,
>>
>>     Ah! Another square peg! How delightful!
>>
>>     You're on the petite end; I'm on the Rubenesque end. When I walk
>> into a Penningtons or any other plus size store, I get so frustrated
>> with
>> the designers of these clothes trying to shove large ladies into
>> mini-skirts
>> and tubular trousers, skirts and dresses. Have they ever looked at the
>> women
>> for whom they're designing? We're not tubular! No way. No how.
>> Consequently
>> a woman comes out with clothes that are either too baggy or too tight
>> so
>> that she looks either like a clown or a tart. Neither of these are
>> looks I'm
>> going for.
>>
>>     And if I purchase a blazer for $100.00+, I want it to be lined,
>> thank you, with more than a serged seam and buttons that fall off
>> after the
>> first wearing, and not to be made of polyester so that when a hot
>> flash hits
>> I don't feel like I'm wearing a plastic bag.
>>
>>     Consequently the current 'dress' jacket I'm making myself has been
>> on the embroidery frame for several months now, based on an early 18th
>> century men's frock coat, but with straight sleeves, made of ivory
>> silk/wool
>> twill and embroidered with rust/orange and real gold. It will take me
>> the
>> rest of the year to finish, but when I do I will have an original
>> garment
>> that will be timeless and last me at least a decade, especially given
>> the
>> few number of special functions I attend.
>>
>>     And then I'll spend most of April in the studio making myself a
>> series of new summer dresses (I've lost 30 pounds and am counting)
>> because
>> the old ones are either worn or too big. Simple cottons, a bit of
>> beading, a
>> bit of trim. Voila.
>>
>>     Then come September I'm probably going to have to make some new
>> winter trousers and shirts, with the hope I've lost more weight and
>> will
>> need a new wardrobe. And these will wear very well. Unlike the stupid
>> cords
>> I purchased from Penningtons. Argh.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Lorina
>>
>>
>> _____________________________________________________________
>> Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community!
>> _______________________________________________
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: sizing/quality of clothing
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 19:49:01 -0500
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Thanks for the good Hunting SPots.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 27, 2006, at 12:19 PM, Elizabeth Young wrote:

> Yeah, me too. 5' 11" and a size 20-24 U.S. (depending)
>
> Info for those in the US:
> I have had good luck at Lane Bryant's - their shirts and blouses are 
> dreadful, but I have two pair of jeans (in a regular length because I 
> have relatively short legs) that contain some stretch. Their jeans 
> also come in tall. The waist is lowered on everything, if I recall 
> correctly.
> I have also managed to find some well-ade wool dress pants at 
> Nordstrom's Rack (but it is very very hit or miss).
>
> liz young
>
> Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
>> I'm on the other end - plus size but tall (5' 11").  If it comes in 
>> talls, it only goes to U.S. size 16 or 18.  Almost none of the plus 
>> sizes come in talls.
>
>> I own 'one' pair of jeans, and that purchased only recently when I
>> found a catalog that had Plus Talls.  I buy men's coats and casual
>> shirts to get the length.
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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>You might find this link useful. You can enlarge/decrease the picture by 
>clicking on the + and - symbols, and move around the picture to see 
>details by clicking on the arrows. It's a lovely, clear picture.
>
>http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=elizabeth&object=404444&row=4&detail=magnify
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>Joannah


Thanks for sharing that link Joannah. It definitely helped me.

<<--- "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:
Thank you for the description. I still wonder how the sleeves are attached.
There is no strap showing. >>

You know, I have pondered that very question for some time. I understand 
the kirtle being underneath and the jewels perhaps being attached to it. 
But some of the images from that time frame, and earlier, show very wide 
shoulder areas with no apparent strap. Makes me wonder if the undergarments 
do or do not have straps, and if the outer gown sleeves are simply pinned 
onto an undergarment, like the kirtle top, and are joined to the gown body 
at the side area, and hangs from the tightly fitted sleeve top?

I also see that the gown is piped or bound, as there are definite red lines 
along the bottom of the jewels, and along the edge of the turned back 
sleeves near the shoulder.

And is it my monitor, or does that red/pink dress have a golden sheen in 
various areas of the brocade, as if it was an iridescent fabric? I am 
seeing it at the center front of the body, below the jewel piece, and on 
the turn back sleeves near the undersleeve. There's even streaks of gold 
along the edge of the skirt near the front opening.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
http://www.kimiko1.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] My New Wardrobe
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How about 1300s dresses and surcotes, maybe with some nice embroidery at the
neck? Or Greek/Roman chitons for summer wear? My theatre group did
"Lysistrada", and wow, were those things sexy! Who'd a thunk it?
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 2:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My New Wardrobe


Ladies,

Let's see what every day wear you come up with that is "historically 
inspired".  You will be great motivators to the rest of us.

CW bodices could be a good choice, made with a little more "ease" than 
is historically accurate.  The full sleeves would be pretty as well as 
easy to wear.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too
fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark Trail" by
Louis L'Amour

On Feb 27, 2006, at 4:09 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:

> At 07:25 AM 2/27/2006, you wrote:
>> I'm going to incorporate historic elements into some of my outfits.  
>> I love the caraco jackets, and have to do something with them!  I 
>> discovered that I like fitted, comfortable clothing that allows a 
>> full range of movement.
>> So while my clothes won't be historic, they will be historically 
>> inspired.
>> Happy fun times with adopting Civil War Era ball gowns to more 
>> everyday wear!
>>
>> Kate
>
>
> Hi Kate,
>
> I am with you. I realized that while I like the look of Victorian
> jackets, I don't want to wear one over a corset all the time (it's ok 
> for an all-Victorian event). So I am going to work on something 
> inspired by them, with the back peplums and all, and hopefully make 
> something historically inspired as well. I may even do something 
> Renaissance inspired, but I'm not sure yet what. I think I will also 
> add in hand embroidery or trimmings as well, to spice them up.
>
> And if you figure out how to adapt the CWera gowns to everyday wear,
> please let me know.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Feb 27 22:54:40 2006
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sizing/quality of clothing
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 01:04:56 -0600
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In my family the problem with the pants is the thigh area. That is where the
fat or muscle goes first. If you get pants to fit the waist your thighs have
to be poured into the legs. If you get pants that fit the thighs, the waist
is to big and you have to belt them tight to stay on and the fabric bulk is
uncomfortable. Women born in my family tend to be 5'6" on up.

De

-----Original Message-----
Sandy,

I hear you girl!  I wear a 14 or 16 depending on the cut.  I am 5' 10".  I
have been buying men's pants and shirts for years.  You can dress them up to
make them look feminine.  Women's pants are too short in length and the
sleeves are too short.

The other day I heard on a fashion show that 12 is considered a plus size.
I think I was born a size 12 in clothing and shoes.  Actually I crammed my
feet into size 10 until a few years. Now I could find size 12 shoes at
places like DSW.  Most people look at me and think or ask if I wear a size 0
or 2.  I am not round but wide and thin.  I weigh the most I have every
weighed and people still think I am underweight.

My 5 y.o. granddaughter is going to have the same problem.  She has my long
legs and arms.  Tonight I pulled her pants up because they were falling off
of her.  She said, "Grandma, I can never get pants to work right.  They are
either too short or too big in the waist."

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,


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Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 09:42:35 +0000
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
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Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> Debloughcostumes@aol.com 26/02/2006 23:44 >>> wrote: [snip]

>but it the things that really irritate me (probably in equal measure) is the 
>assumption that if you get bigger, you somehow magically get taller too; and 
>the retailers that stop at a size 14UK (or who think that a size 12UK is 
>'large').

Curiously, I have the opposite grievance: retailers of styles suitable for my age (54) who don't go BELOW a size 12UK (I'm a 10).
______________________________________________________________________


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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I wondered why one wrist had a gold line and a black one. SO you think the 
sleeves with the band are false sleeves? Do you think they are attached to 
the funnel sleeves instead of being the chemise sticking out? Why would they 
do that?
I found a magnificent vintage velvet brocade on eBay. It looks very close to 
the sleeve and front fabric. I got 5.5m of it, too! I can't wait to get it.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 9:28 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


> This is great! She's wearing a gold bracelet on her left wrist.You can
> barely see it. And from the way the wrist opening is painted you can tell
> that the white puffs on the false sleeve is not the chemise sleeve.
> Most excellent find. Thank you!
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Sorry about the late reply.
>
> You might find this link useful. You can enlarge/decrease the picture by
> clicking on the + and - symbols, and move around the picture to see 
> details
> by clicking on the arrows. It's a lovely, clear picture.
>
> http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=elizabeth&o
> bject=404444&row=4&detail=magnify
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Joannah
>
> ~
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Olympics Photos
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Status: RO

If anyone wants to see the Olympic opening and closing ceremonies photos you can find them at:
Opening
http://www.torino2006.org/ENG/OlympicGames/photogallery/gallery_72_1.html
Closing
http://www.torino2006.org/ENG/OlympicGames/photogallery/gallery_228_1.html

I just love the Alps dresses:
http://www.torino2006.org/ENG/OlympicGames/photogallery/gallery_228_20.html

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Underwear, demystified
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Kathy,
Thanks so much for posting this!  I'm still green with envy but looking
forward to when/what you can publish.  Let me know if you need a beta
reader :).

And regarding Myth #4, the blackwork that is purple;  check with some
of the historic dye folks.  It is my understanding that some black dyes
used for embroidery silks faded to various shades of purple, which would
explain the varigation of color.  And if they didn't fade, the iron used
for the mordant caused them to rot, sometimes w/ parts of the ground
fabric.

Thanks again!
Catherine


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Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 19:56:32 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing
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Do you still have Droopy and Browns in York?  The one in Edinburgh 
closed some years ago - they did the most gorgeous clothes, but clearly 
for the well-endowed, and I was an A-cup then!

I find an assumption that if you get richer, you get taller - I can get 
skirts and trousers in cheap end high-street shops, but walk into Cruise 
or Karen Millen and the rails are at shoulder height and the skirts are 
nearly to the floor!  And it's been a long time since skirts were a 
shape you could just take 6 inches off the bottom.

Jean


Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote
>obviously doens't apply to all, but bravissimo in the UK (bras in cups D and
>above) have been doing clothing for a while now, and their suits are a godsend
>if you're of ample bosom(!!!), and have the old 'if it fits on the waist it
>gapes over the chesr' thing.
>
>They come in normal sizes, with an extra sizing of curvy and super curvy,
>dependant on cup size.  I just wish they'd expand the normal sizes they 
>cover up
>a bit (I'm about the top end, and I'm only a UK size 16, (not counting chest!)
>so not *that* huge.
>
>but it the things that really irritate me (probably in equal measure) is the
>assumption that if you get bigger, you somehow magically get taller too; and
>the retailers that stop at a size 14UK (or who think that a size 12UK is
>'large').
>
>debs
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sizing/quality of clothing
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On Monday 27 February 2006 2:04 am, otsisto wrote:
> In my family the problem with the pants is the thigh area. That is where
> the fat or muscle goes first. If you get pants to fit the waist your thighs
> have to be poured into the legs. If you get pants that fit the thighs, the
> waist is to big and you have to belt them tight to stay on and the fabric
> bulk is uncomfortable. Women born in my family tend to be 5'6" on up.

I'm 5' 1", and I've always had the same problem with pants until Lands' End 
changed its sizing.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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I believe logwood, for example, can give a purple color, rather than black.
 
Ann Wass 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 10:15:41 -0600
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Underwear, demystified


Kathy,
Thanks so much for posting this!  I'm still green with envy but looking
forward to when/what you can publish.  Let me know if you need a beta
reader :).

And regarding Myth #4, the blackwork that is purple;  check with some
of the historic dye folks.  It is my understanding that some black dyes
used for embroidery silks faded to various shades of purple, which would
explain the varigation of color.  And if they didn't fade, the iron used
for the mordant caused them to rot, sometimes w/ parts of the ground
fabric.

Thanks again!
Catherine


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Ditto. When I was in high school I had a 24" waist and 40" hips. Thank
goodness I've found Lands End. They have cotton knit, elastic waist pants,
in petite and tall, too. Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 11:05 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sizing/quality of clothing


In my family the problem with the pants is the thigh area. That is where the
fat or muscle goes first. If you get pants to fit the waist your thighs have
to be poured into the legs. If you get pants that fit the thighs, the waist
is to big and you have to belt them tight to stay on and the fabric bulk is
uncomfortable. Women born in my family tend to be 5'6" on up.

De

-----Original Message-----
Sandy,

I hear you girl!  I wear a 14 or 16 depending on the cut.  I am 5' 10".  I
have been buying men's pants and shirts for years.  You can dress them up to
make them look feminine.  Women's pants are too short in length and the
sleeves are too short.

The other day I heard on a fashion show that 12 is considered a plus size. I
think I was born a size 12 in clothing and shoes.  Actually I crammed my
feet into size 10 until a few years. Now I could find size 12 shoes at
places like DSW.  Most people look at me and think or ask if I wear a size 0
or 2.  I am not round but wide and thin.  I weigh the most I have every
weighed and people still think I am underweight.

My 5 y.o. granddaughter is going to have the same problem.  She has my long
legs and arms.  Tonight I pulled her pants up because they were falling off
of her.  She said, "Grandma, I can never get pants to work right.  They are
either too short or too big in the waist."

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: fit of modern clothes
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Status: RO

And Penny mentioned men's pants, also....

Don't work for me - I have a very long rise, and I hate pants that 
don't come all the way to the waist.  The other problem is that my 
hips are 1-2 sizes larger than my waist, and my full hip is only 
about 2-3" below my waist.  So, anything without a defined waistband, 
elastic/drawstring, or gathers/pleats below it, gaps horribly at the waist.

My shape:                               |                                  |
                                     _____| 
|______
                                          | 
|

Fun, huh?
Sandy
At 10:00 PM 2/27/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 09:19:49 -0800
>From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: sizing/quality of clothing
>
>Yeah, me too. 5' 11" and a size 20-24 U.S. (depending)
>Info for those in the US:
>I have had good luck at Lane Bryant's - their shirts and blouses are
>dreadful, but I have two pair of jeans (in a regular length because I
>have relatively short legs) that contain some stretch. Their jeans also
>come in tall. The waist is lowered on everything, if I recall correctly.
>I have also managed to find some well-ade wool dress pants at
>Nordstrom's Rack (but it is very very hit or miss).
>liz young
>
>Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
> > I own 'one' pair of jeans, and that purchased only recently when I
> > found a catalog that had Plus Talls.  I buy men's coats and casual
> > shirts to get the length.

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 01:45:53 -0600
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>From what I can remember of the portrait as presently I am having problems
with getting connected to that site. It seems like the connection is running
like molasses.
Also I am not quite sure what you are asking.

The gold band looks like a bracelet.
In the same location you might be able to notice that
1. There isn't enough gathers in the cuff to create the white puffs that you
see on the gold sleeve.
2. The spacing between the gold sleeve cuff and the chemise sleeve.
I can only assume that the gold sleeve is made of two and a half or three
layers. A lining, an outer fabric and the white material that is the poufs
in between the two.
One woman I knew who made Tudor dresses usually pinned her false sleeves (in
this case the gold sleeves) onto her chemise sleeves at the crook of her
arm.
She had mentioned that there were problems with pinning the fs to the bell
sleeves but did not elaborate on what the problem was.
Congrats on your fabric find.
De

-----Original Message-----
I wondered why one wrist had a gold line and a black one. SO you think the
sleeves with the band are false sleeves? Do you think they are attached to
the funnel sleeves instead of being the chemise sticking out? Why would they
do that?
I found a magnificent vintage velvet brocade on eBay. It looks very close to
the sleeve and front fabric. I got 5.5m of it, too! I can't wait to get it.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 08:45:23 -0500
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>From other sources,I've been told there are narrow straps for the chemise 
and kirtle. The jewels are attached to the kirtle. The bodice is cut a bit 
larger than the kirtle so it pushes against the edge of the jewels. They 
stay in place that way. One source said that the sleeves are the chemise. 
Another said not. One said to attach the undersleeves onto a short sleeved 
kirtle.
I bought some vitnage devore velvet for the golden fabric. It looks very 
similar to the pattern, even more richly in fact. I found a red velveteen 
fabric that was already quilted with rings where I can place boning for the 
hoops. Someone suggested that the princess and Queen probably wore a red 
under garment, since they could afford it. I found a beautiful irriedescent 
silk for a lining, and it has enough body to it to give some more shape to 
the skirt.
I bought 6 yards of 100% linen for the chemise (and enough for mine as well) 
I have some white on white brocade for the corsets. I also have some left 
over canvas for the body of the corsets.
I bought real pearls for some of the decorations. I've hit the second hand 
stores looking for ol pearl necklaces. So far, I have 4 antique ones that I 
can use. I found a site that told me how to knot the string of pearls.
I have a pattern to use for all the parts. I bought the Arnold books, 
Simplicity patterns gathered from all over and ordered the Jean M of 
costuming.
I'm washing the fabrics that can be before I start cutting. Some can't be.
I'm cutting out a toile today, from a lightweight undbleached muslin. I got 
15 yards at $1.00 per yard if I bought the bolt. I did.
I have the pinky/orange jacquard fabric, too. The woven pattern is close 
enough to the portrait.
SOOOO... I'm all set to get started. Stuff is all over my wewing area. But 
won't it look great when my daughter wears it.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


>
>>You might find this link useful. You can enlarge/decrease the picture by 
>>clicking on the + and - symbols, and move around the picture to see 
>>details by clicking on the arrows. It's a lovely, clear picture.
>>
>>http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=elizabeth&object=404444&row=4&detail=magnify
>>
>>Hope this helps.
>>
>>Joannah
>
>
> Thanks for sharing that link Joannah. It definitely helped me.
>
> <<--- "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Thank you for the description. I still wonder how the sleeves are 
> attached.
> There is no strap showing. >>
>
> You know, I have pondered that very question for some time. I understand 
> the kirtle being underneath and the jewels perhaps being attached to it. 
> But some of the images from that time frame, and earlier, show very wide 
> shoulder areas with no apparent strap. Makes me wonder if the 
> undergarments do or do not have straps, and if the outer gown sleeves are 
> simply pinned onto an undergarment, like the kirtle top, and are joined to 
> the gown body at the side area, and hangs from the tightly fitted sleeve 
> top?
>
> I also see that the gown is piped or bound, as there are definite red 
> lines along the bottom of the jewels, and along the edge of the turned 
> back sleeves near the shoulder.
>
> And is it my monitor, or does that red/pink dress have a golden sheen in 
> various areas of the brocade, as if it was an iridescent fabric? I am 
> seeing it at the center front of the body, below the jewel piece, and on 
> the turn back sleeves near the undersleeve. There's even streaks of gold 
> along the edge of the skirt near the front opening.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> Kimiko Small
> http://www.kimiko1.com
> Fresno, CA, USA
>
> "Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
> Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires
> Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland
>  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell)
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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From: "Jacqueline Johnson" <kristalori@gmail.com>
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If you've read Fraser's biography she mentions that Mary did indeed have a
few French servants (besides the poet who hid under her bed and got her into
so much trouble before he was then executed) I'm 99% sure a French cook was
in the entourage but that it was a man and he had been one of Catherine de
Medici's former cooks who had been transferred to Mary's house when she was
younger. It probably wouldn't be hard to get the name.

Mary of Scotland was *so* French in her ways (although she did speak Scots
its said it was with a heavy French accent) she really offended her own
people.  She wore French clothes, read French books, danced French dances.
She sent to France for things she needed and was considered by many a
"French woman". She'd lived there since she was 5 so that wasn't unlikely.

Bice
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 181
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Susan wrote:

> Any Babylon 5 fans here?  Anybody remember Garibaldi's "monolog" on
> "why thin air?"?

(raises hand, looks around, sees Catherine...)

--Robin
"No boom today. Boom tomorrow. There's always a boom tomorrow."


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From: "Bonnie Booker" <aspasia1@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redwork
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>
> Mistress Aspasia, do you (or anybody else for that matter) know more
> about the painting that this detail is from?


I would have to research it and right now my husband is creating a series of
internet classes for St. Leo University.  I have to sneak in time to even
check my email. I know the lady is 16th c. English...I think the Countess of
Hardwick.  The others I will have to check.  I have care of  3 yr old and 6
yr old foster daughters that I have to keep a close eye on, so can't get too
distracted when I'm alone with them.  I will try.  Maybe someone else can
find them sooner.

Aspasia Moonwind
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Subject: [h-cost] Mardi Gras
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YIPPEE!!!  Today is Mardi Gras.  Pronounced "Marty Graw."  The parade are all day and night until midnight.  In Rio, Carnival lasts until day break.

Several television stations have live feeds of the parades online.  If you find more live feed links, let me know.  So here are the links:

New Orleans CNN: 
http://www.cnn.com/pipeline/freeday/ Click on watch it now.  For the wild ones, watch Bourbon Street.  Family viewing, St. Charles Street.  On TV CNN is interviewing a lot of people in costumes.  My favorite so far is the FEMA trailer trash!

TV station WWL live coverage from 10 am- 3 pm Central time zone:
http://www.wwltv.com/ live coverage link in yellow just under the 4WWL logo.

TV station WVUE live coverage
http://www.fox8live.com/

Mobile, Alabama:
http://www.wkrg.com/ Click on the image, live coverage image.  Family friendly.

Carnival photos from Rio Samba parade:
http://www.ipanema.com/carnival/samba.htm
if you find a live feed online, please let me know. 

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
<snip>
> I have some white on white brocade for the corsets. I also have some left 
> over canvas for the body of the corsets.

Sounds like you're making a major effort!  So there's one thing you may want 
to keep in mind... they did NOT wear corsets this early.  At this stage, any 
bust support and figure shaping came from the kirtle! Interlining and 
stiffening of the kirtle (though not necessarily boning, and in fact 
probably only rarely) gives a bit of a corsetted look, but there is no 
evidence of corsets this early; there is, however, mention of the weird new 
thing a couple of decades later.

The [Non-Elizabethan] Tudor Corset Is A Myth!

-E House
(I'd like to teach a class on this someday, but I have a feeling I'd get 
rotten vegetables thrown at me in a very period-appropriate sort of way.  So 
maybe a nice web article.) 

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From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mardi Gras
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And for Costume content, don't miss Carnival in Venice.....

Kathy

http://www.carnivalofvenice.com/video.asp?anno=2006&mainevent=COV2006



>>> penny@costumegallery.com 02/28/06 11:33 AM >>>
YIPPEE!!!  Today is Mardi Gras.  Pronounced "Marty Graw."  The parade
are all day and night until midnight.  In Rio, Carnival lasts until day
break.

Several television stations have live feeds of the parades online.  If
you find more live feed links, let me know.  So here are the links:

New Orleans CNN: 
http://www.cnn.com/pipeline/freeday/ Click on watch it now.  For the
wild ones, watch Bourbon Street.  Family viewing, St. Charles Street. 
On TV CNN is interviewing a lot of people in costumes.  My favorite so
far is the FEMA trailer trash!

TV station WWL live coverage from 10 am- 3 pm Central time zone:
http://www.wwltv.com/ live coverage link in yellow just under the 4WWL
logo.

TV station WVUE live coverage
http://www.fox8live.com/ 

Mobile, Alabama:
http://www.wkrg.com/ Click on the image, live coverage image.  Family
friendly.

Carnival photos from Rio Samba parade:
http://www.ipanema.com/carnival/samba.htm 
if you find a live feed online, please let me know. 

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 09:24:40 -0800
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You can get real fresh water pearls very inexpensively from Fire Mountain or
Rio Grande jewelry catalogues. I believe a 16" strand was about $4-$6.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Becky
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 5:45 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


>From other sources,I've been told there are narrow straps for the 
>chemise
and kirtle. The jewels are attached to the kirtle. The bodice is cut a bit 
larger than the kirtle so it pushes against the edge of the jewels. They 
stay in place that way. One source said that the sleeves are the chemise. 
Another said not. One said to attach the undersleeves onto a short sleeved 
kirtle.
I bought some vitnage devore velvet for the golden fabric. It looks very 
similar to the pattern, even more richly in fact. I found a red velveteen 
fabric that was already quilted with rings where I can place boning for the 
hoops. Someone suggested that the princess and Queen probably wore a red 
under garment, since they could afford it. I found a beautiful irriedescent 
silk for a lining, and it has enough body to it to give some more shape to 
the skirt.
I bought 6 yards of 100% linen for the chemise (and enough for mine as well)

I have some white on white brocade for the corsets. I also have some left 
over canvas for the body of the corsets.
I bought real pearls for some of the decorations. I've hit the second hand 
stores looking for ol pearl necklaces. So far, I have 4 antique ones that I 
can use. I found a site that told me how to knot the string of pearls. I
have a pattern to use for all the parts. I bought the Arnold books, 
Simplicity patterns gathered from all over and ordered the Jean M of 
costuming.
I'm washing the fabrics that can be before I start cutting. Some can't be.
I'm cutting out a toile today, from a lightweight undbleached muslin. I got 
15 yards at $1.00 per yard if I bought the bolt. I did.
I have the pinky/orange jacquard fabric, too. The woven pattern is close 
enough to the portrait.
SOOOO... I'm all set to get started. Stuff is all over my wewing area. But 
won't it look great when my daughter wears it.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


>
>>You might find this link useful. You can enlarge/decrease the picture 
>>by
>>clicking on the + and - symbols, and move around the picture to see 
>>details by clicking on the arrows. It's a lovely, clear picture.
>>
>>http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=eliza
>>beth&object=404444&row=4&detail=magnify
>>
>>Hope this helps.
>>
>>Joannah
>
>
> Thanks for sharing that link Joannah. It definitely helped me.
>
> <<--- "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Thank you for the description. I still wonder how the sleeves are
> attached.
> There is no strap showing. >>
>
> You know, I have pondered that very question for some time. I 
> understand
> the kirtle being underneath and the jewels perhaps being attached to it. 
> But some of the images from that time frame, and earlier, show very wide 
> shoulder areas with no apparent strap. Makes me wonder if the 
> undergarments do or do not have straps, and if the outer gown sleeves are 
> simply pinned onto an undergarment, like the kirtle top, and are joined to

> the gown body at the side area, and hangs from the tightly fitted sleeve 
> top?
>
> I also see that the gown is piped or bound, as there are definite red
> lines along the bottom of the jewels, and along the edge of the turned 
> back sleeves near the shoulder.
>
> And is it my monitor, or does that red/pink dress have a golden sheen 
> in
> various areas of the brocade, as if it was an iridescent fabric? I am 
> seeing it at the center front of the body, below the jewel piece, and on 
> the turn back sleeves near the undersleeve. There's even streaks of gold 
> along the edge of the skirt near the front opening.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> Kimiko Small
> http://www.kimiko1.com
> Fresno, CA, USA
>
> "Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
> Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires Lady 
> Clifford, Countess of Cumberland  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or 
> Margaret Russell)
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Feb 28 13:18:47 2006
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Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 13:12:37 -0500
From: Anne <adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Waugh's 1844 Corset
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Status: RO

I have a question (or several!) for the list about making the 1844 
corset from Corsets and Crinolines. I know many people have drafted up 
her corsets successfully and was wondering if anyone has done this one. 
I do an interpretation of a woman from 1840 for a school program and 
have been slowly trying to improve my costume for the past five years. I
currently wear a stay made from the Past Patterns 1820s-40s Wedding Stay 
which fits, but not well since it was made for someone with broader 
shoulders and a flatter chest. Since this is a transitional period for 
corsets, I wanted to try to make something different and boned for more 
support, which I need. I also have very narrow shoulders and the biggest 
problem with my current stay is that the straps fall off them.

The challenge is that I am not a very experienced sewer and, of course,
am biting off more than I can chew. Nonetheless, I find the best way for
me to learn is simply to try something and so I am crazily willing to
give this a try. I have already scaled up the pattern and made two
muslins, slowly making changes. I have not boned the muslins, so I know
my fittings are not very precise, but right now, I am quite a ways from
a properly fitted garment. My biggest concern thus far is knowing
whether I even have the original measurements right. Waugh doesn't give
any waist, hip or bust measurements (unless I missed them), so how do
you know what they are on the original in order to translate them for
yourself? Is it all guesswork and trial and error? Without going into
specifics of my fitting trials, does anyone have any suggestions or
advice? Thanks for any help you can give!

-- 
Anne
adelaideatgenevahistoricalsociety.com
(be sure to change "at" to "@")


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mardi Gras
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Thanks Kathy!  I love the The Marie and the Historical Parade that starts 
from S. Pietro di Castello for St. Mark Square video.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 13:53:44 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waugh's 1844 Corset
To: h-costume@indra.com
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My biggest concern thus far is knowing
whether I even have the original  measurements right. 
 
 
********************
 
 
Is there not a scale....a little graduated bar that tells you what the  scale 
is...on the page with the pattern?
I know there is a prob sometimes with the scale not matching up with 1/4"  or 
1/8" or whatever represents an inch in the scale. Sometimes it's just  under, 
say, 1/8" or just over 1/8" because the image of the page was  resized for 
printing. So you need to take a piece of paper, put the  straight edge up to the 
scale and make a sorta "measuring stick"...mark what  represents inches along 
a good length of the paper. [If the scale is  actually 1/8" or 1/4" = 
1"....you can just use a tape measure.] Then use this to  just measure the waist and 
bust or whatever you want to measure, on the small  scaled down pattern.
 
If this is the corset I think it is...with curvy seams and bust gussets...  
you will find that the waist is very small for the bust. I have made this 
corset  twice. In the 1st version I followed the pattern...got a big bust but then 
ran a  cord thru the binding at the top and pulled it up to fit the wearer. 
This ruches  up the top of the corset a bit over the bust but it looks good 
[especially with  some lace at the top.] and works under a gown.
The second time I made it, I cut down the pattern pieces and gussets to fit  
the wearer's measurements. This made for narrow gussets and took a lot of 
curve  out of the front pieces, but also looked very good.
 
Remember the finished corset measurements should be 2" to 3" less than your  
real measurments. And you should bone the mock ups...even with just some  
Ridglene zig-zagged to the muslin....before you start changing  shapes.
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mardi Gras
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 14:17:08 -0500
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Status: RO

Here are some photos and videos of the Rio de Janeiro Sambodromo is a 
competition.  http://www.tenhon.ca/rio/2005riocarnaval.html#photogallery . 
There is some nudity in the video but this is part of their celebration. 
The photos show a lot clearer images of the elaborate costumes and floats.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Waugh's 1844 Corset
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Status: RO

My suggestion for dealing with Waugh's patterns is to simply scale it up until the pattern waist measurement matches your waist measurement (sans the ~2" spring for lacing). This will generally result in the bust and hips being rather too large, as we have not grown up in corsets (for the 1860s corset I have, it was so large I had to remove one of the hip panels entirely) but once you have the waist you can fit everything else until it works. 

Just my 2 cents,
	-sunny


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Status: RO

My suggestion for dealing with Waugh's patterns is to simply scale it up until the pattern waist measurement matches your waist measurement (sans the ~2" spring for lacing). This will generally result in the bust and hips being rather too large, as we have not grown up in corsets (for the 1860s corset I have, it was so large I had to remove one of the hip panels entirely) but once you have the waist you can fit everything else until it works. 

Just my 2 cents,
	-sunny


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Listing books
References: <LLEALCLGCCEBKHIGEMPOKENFDOAA.marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
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Martha Kelly wrote:
> 
> Could someone please explain the point of listing one's books? I'm
> afraid I don't see the point. Mine are all on shelves in my workroom.
> I know what they are, and where they are. Why would I need to list
> them? (More time I haven't got anyway!)
> 
> suzi
> Two reasons for listing books:
> 1.  So when people ask you where you got your info, you don't have to type
> it all out each time.
> 2.  So you can keep track of books you've loaned out.  I still want to know
> who borrowed to my little pink book on making tutus.  Are you out there????
> 
> Martha

3.  In case a disaster takes your collection, you can prove to the 
insurance company you really did own that many books.

While I don't have it in a share-able format, I do have a database of 
all my books and music.  If you have lots of "esoteric" stuff (like my 
large collection of Renaissance dance music) it helps to be able to 
prove it should it be destroyed.

--Charlene

-- 
Most people are more comfortable with old problems than with new 
solutions.  -- Anonymous


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From: Anne <adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waugh's 1844 Corset
References: <c0.381f6088.3135f638@aol.com>
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> Is there not a scale....a little graduated bar that tells you what the  scale 
> is...on the page with the pattern?

Yes, there is a 6 inch marker. I used an overhead to blow the image up 
until it matched a ruler and then traced out the pattern, so I guess I 
am on the right track. Then I marked where the waist and bust seemed to 
be, measured them and scaled the patterns up to my measurements.

> If this is the corset I think it is...with curvy seams and bust gussets...  
> you will find that the waist is very small for the bust. 

Yes, that's the one. This may be why the bust seems very large. I think 
I also may need to shorten the pieces because I am very short-waisted 
and they seem to be a bit long. I will try boning them first before I 
make any cuts though. The other part that seems off (though perhaps it 
is because I haven't boned it) is that the sides (underarms) and back 
seem to be way lower than the front. My perceptions may be off though 
because I rarely wear strapless garments.

Thanks!
Anne
-- 
Anne
adelaideatgenevahistoricalsociety.com
(be sure to change "at" to "@")
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <44049295.3050801@genevahistoricalsociety.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waugh's 1844 Corset
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 16:38:57 -0400
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Status: RO

Hi fellow corset makers,

When making a corset for a person I start with a block pattern of that 
person.  A good book is Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting.  In it 
there is a full body block for dressmaking, which you will need to use to go 
over the hip (the bodice block stops at the waist).

Draft the block, then manipulate it.  Close the darts, reduce the amount for 
the desired cinch, and *then* use the period patterns to create the garment.

By scaling the pattern up, you will create a garment for a person who was in 
stays from a very young age, and so has a different body shape than our 
modern bodies.  It will be uncomfortable to wear, because it doesn't fit 
your individual body shape.  By making the block, all the fitting problems 
are solved when you fit the first block, long before you get to the 
staymaking stage.

You can also use that fitted block to create all your garments, they will 
fit *you* properly. Well worth the effort, and the $60 for the book. The 
book covers almost everything you will need for women's clothing, and now 
there is a men's version!

Amazon has them on sale, when you buy them together...I just bought a set 
for the museum, so I don't have to carry a heavy book bag everywhere I go.

Kelly 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waugh's 1844 Corset
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Status: RO

Or, you might find it easier to scale it to fit your bust & hips, then curve 
it out a bit at the waist--it's generally a bit less complicated that way, 
with the benefit of keeping the more accurate lines of the original.  This 
method would work well with this specific corset.

After you've enlarged the pattern, measure across the narrowest parts of 
each pattern piece, and add it up to get the garment's approximate waist 
measurement.  (For that front piece, figure out where the waist is on the 
piece beside it, then measure across that point on the front piece.) Then, 
before you even cut out the fitting muslin, figure out the difference 
between that and a comfortable corsetted waist for your figure and redraw 
the lines on your pattern to accomodate that difference.

For this era, you can just add equal amounts to each seam, though for some 
other eras you need to add it in only at the sides, or only at the sides and 
back, or only at the sides and front. However, if you added it unevenly on 
this corset, you'd mess up the placement of the bones, which might lead to 
twisted bones and some very uncomfortable experiences. You'll still need to 
tweak the shapes of the bust gussets a bit, but by curving out the waist 
gently over the length of the whole seam you will have incidentally 
increased the rib cage measurement, which will make the corset's cup size 
smaller automatically.

-E House, retired corsetière.
 

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References: <002201c63c8b$dbcd8dc0$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 15:57:17 -0500
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Status: RO

Yes, I know. They are on backorder now and not sure when they will get them 
in. I asked.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 12:24 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


> You can get real fresh water pearls very inexpensively from Fire Mountain 
> or
> Rio Grande jewelry catalogues. I believe a 16" strand was about $4-$6.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Becky
> Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 5:45 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>
>
>>From other sources,I've been told there are narrow straps for the
>>chemise
> and kirtle. The jewels are attached to the kirtle. The bodice is cut a bit
> larger than the kirtle so it pushes against the edge of the jewels. They
> stay in place that way. One source said that the sleeves are the chemise.
> Another said not. One said to attach the undersleeves onto a short sleeved
> kirtle.
> I bought some vitnage devore velvet for the golden fabric. It looks very
> similar to the pattern, even more richly in fact. I found a red velveteen
> fabric that was already quilted with rings where I can place boning for 
> the
> hoops. Someone suggested that the princess and Queen probably wore a red
> under garment, since they could afford it. I found a beautiful 
> irriedescent
> silk for a lining, and it has enough body to it to give some more shape to
> the skirt.
> I bought 6 yards of 100% linen for the chemise (and enough for mine as 
> well)
>
> I have some white on white brocade for the corsets. I also have some left
> over canvas for the body of the corsets.
> I bought real pearls for some of the decorations. I've hit the second hand
> stores looking for ol pearl necklaces. So far, I have 4 antique ones that 
> I
> can use. I found a site that told me how to knot the string of pearls. I
> have a pattern to use for all the parts. I bought the Arnold books,
> Simplicity patterns gathered from all over and ordered the Jean M of
> costuming.
> I'm washing the fabrics that can be before I start cutting. Some can't be.
> I'm cutting out a toile today, from a lightweight undbleached muslin. I 
> got
> 15 yards at $1.00 per yard if I bought the bolt. I did.
> I have the pinky/orange jacquard fabric, too. The woven pattern is close
> enough to the portrait.
> SOOOO... I'm all set to get started. Stuff is all over my wewing area. But
> won't it look great when my daughter wears it.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 6:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
>
>
>>
>>>You might find this link useful. You can enlarge/decrease the picture
>>>by
>>>clicking on the + and - symbols, and move around the picture to see
>>>details by clicking on the arrows. It's a lovely, clear picture.
>>>
>>>http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp?searchText=eliza
>>>beth&object=404444&row=4&detail=magnify
>>>
>>>Hope this helps.
>>>
>>>Joannah
>>
>>
>> Thanks for sharing that link Joannah. It definitely helped me.
>>
>> <<--- "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> Thank you for the description. I still wonder how the sleeves are
>> attached.
>> There is no strap showing. >>
>>
>> You know, I have pondered that very question for some time. I
>> understand
>> the kirtle being underneath and the jewels perhaps being attached to it.
>> But some of the images from that time frame, and earlier, show very wide
>> shoulder areas with no apparent strap. Makes me wonder if the
>> undergarments do or do not have straps, and if the outer gown sleeves are
>> simply pinned onto an undergarment, like the kirtle top, and are joined 
>> to
>
>> the gown body at the side area, and hangs from the tightly fitted sleeve
>> top?
>>
>> I also see that the gown is piped or bound, as there are definite red
>> lines along the bottom of the jewels, and along the edge of the turned
>> back sleeves near the shoulder.
>>
>> And is it my monitor, or does that red/pink dress have a golden sheen
>> in
>> various areas of the brocade, as if it was an iridescent fabric? I am
>> seeing it at the center front of the body, below the jewel piece, and on
>> the turn back sleeves near the undersleeve. There's even streaks of gold
>> along the edge of the skirt near the front opening.
>>
>> Kimiko
>>
>>
>> Kimiko Small
>> http://www.kimiko1.com
>> Fresno, CA, USA
>>
>> "Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild
>> Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires Lady
>> Clifford, Countess of Cumberland  (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or
>> Margaret Russell)
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> _______________________________________________
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>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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Status: RO

I wondered about that. I had planned to have the support skirt and the 
kirtle as one unit. I think I used the wrong word. I didn't mean corset but 
the upper portion that is body support. I wasn't sure if "bodies" and corset 
were the same. Thanks for pointing that out.
I thought it was too early for a corset and my daughter is so young, she'd 
hate to wear something too tight.
I have a sample (Ninya's site examples) of how the skirt is attached to the 
kirtle. One less layer that way, too!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
> <snip>
>> I have some white on white brocade for the corsets. I also have some left 
>> over canvas for the body of the corsets.
>
> Sounds like you're making a major effort!  So there's one thing you may 
> want to keep in mind... they did NOT wear corsets this early.  At this 
> stage, any bust support and figure shaping came from the kirtle! 
> Interlining and stiffening of the kirtle (though not necessarily boning, 
> and in fact probably only rarely) gives a bit of a corsetted look, but 
> there is no evidence of corsets this early; there is, however, mention of 
> the weird new thing a couple of decades later.
>
> The [Non-Elizabethan] Tudor Corset Is A Myth!
>
> -E House
> (I'd like to teach a class on this someday, but I have a feeling I'd get 
> rotten vegetables thrown at me in a very period-appropriate sort of way. 
> So maybe a nice web article.)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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Please note that silk is a warm fabric. I believe that if you line your
garment with silk you may be insulating it. If your area is prone to heat
then you may not wish to line in silk. Nor would you wish to have silk next
to the body in heat as it tend to cling to the body from the sweat it
produces.
I do not think that corsets were used in England at this time but I am not
100% sure.
If there was a corset, it would have been made of linen or linen and wool.
but I think the support is mainly from the kirtle.
For gowns where you can not see a chemise, it has been surmised that the
person is wearing a smock which is like a slip that is not gathered at the
neck but is cut to be just under the kirtle and dress neckline.
http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm
go to "Under Pinnings" pattern, click on it.
Go to "Two styles of smock, w/partlet" click.
It is the first smock that I am talking about but not tapered in the sleeves
so that you can gather them into a cuff.
I believe that this may be a possibility with this dress from indication of
the shift/chemise cuff gathering. The gathering is not extensive but
indicative of a straight sleeve lightly gathered.
As far as I know the kirtle from this period does not have short sleeves but
this doesn't mean there wasn't some with short sleeves. Does your source for
short sleeve kirtles state where one can find the it? I would be interested.
Hope all this makes sense.
De
Recovering from bronchitis so brain not quite pass first gear.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
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It came from someone on the h-costume boards. I will see if I still have the 
reference.
I don't know what a short sleeved kirtle looks like.
I have the Margo Anderson patterns, the Arnold books and ordered one by Jean 
M(? I can't remember the last name right now) It's about costuming.
The site where I have seen the pictures of the layers used for this portrait 
is "Ninya Mikhaila" ninya@ninyamikhaila.com
http://www.ninyamikhaila.com
Her website has 2 versions of a gown from the portrait. One shows the layers 
and the other shows how she did the front opening. She also wrote to me when 
I asked questions. She has been very helpful and easily available when I 
needed her advice.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 4:42 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth


> Please note that silk is a warm fabric. I believe that if you line your
> garment with silk you may be insulating it. If your area is prone to heat
> then you may not wish to line in silk. Nor would you wish to have silk 
> next
> to the body in heat as it tend to cling to the body from the sweat it
> produces.
> I do not think that corsets were used in England at this time but I am not
> 100% sure.
> If there was a corset, it would have been made of linen or linen and wool.
> but I think the support is mainly from the kirtle.
> For gowns where you can not see a chemise, it has been surmised that the
> person is wearing a smock which is like a slip that is not gathered at the
> neck but is cut to be just under the kirtle and dress neckline.
> http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm
> go to "Under Pinnings" pattern, click on it.
> Go to "Two styles of smock, w/partlet" click.
> It is the first smock that I am talking about but not tapered in the 
> sleeves
> so that you can gather them into a cuff.
> I believe that this may be a possibility with this dress from indication 
> of
> the shift/chemise cuff gathering. The gathering is not extensive but
> indicative of a straight sleeve lightly gathered.
> As far as I know the kirtle from this period does not have short sleeves 
> but
> this doesn't mean there wasn't some with short sleeves. Does your source 
> for
> short sleeve kirtles state where one can find the it? I would be 
> interested.
> Hope all this makes sense.
> De
> Recovering from bronchitis so brain not quite pass first gear.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Becky wrote:

> Yes, I know. They are on backorder now and not sure when they will get 
> them in. I asked.
> 
> 
>> You can get real fresh water pearls very inexpensively from Fire 
>> Mountain or
>> Rio Grande jewelry catalogues. I believe a 16" strand was about $4-$6.
>>

I can get them at local bead shops for about the same price. Hancock 
fabrics is carrying them atm, but the quantity price is not very good. 
It might be worth your time to call around town before you mail order.


Dawn



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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waugh's 1844 Corset
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Quoting kelly grant <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>:

> Hi fellow corset makers,
>
> When making a corset for a person I start with a block pattern of 
> that person.  A good book is Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern 
> Cutting.  In it there is a full body block for dressmaking, which you 
> will need to use to go over the hip (the bodice block stops at the 
> waist).

I'm not sure what a "block" is.  Is that the same thing as a muslin?

Susan, the uninformed
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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> I'm not sure what a "block" is.  Is that the same thing as a muslin?
>
> Susan, the uninformed

It's also called a sloper, a fitting muslin, if I catch your train of 
thought, would be the same thing. Basically a fitted basic darted garment 
that reflects where your body is. Once you have that garment( and the fitted 
pattern), you can create just about any type of clothing you want, and it 
will fit you without fussing with every pattern you want to make.  You also 
don't really need to buy comercial patterns, you can work from the design, 
if you understand how you need to manipulate the basic pattern.  Aldrich's 
books will give you a lot of cutting information so you can reach the period 
look with very little manipulation.

Hope that makes sense, and I haven't offended anyone.  I'm just really keen 
on people not being frustrated with their clothes anymore...

Kelly 
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waugh's 1844 Corset
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Quoting kelly grant <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>:

>> I'm not sure what a "block" is.  Is that the same thing as a muslin?
>>
>> Susan, the uninformed
>
> It's also called a sloper, a fitting muslin, if I catch your train of 
> thought, would be the same thing. Basically a fitted basic darted 
> garment that reflects where your body is. Once you have that garment( 
> and the fitted pattern), you can create just about any type of 
> clothing you want, and it will fit you without fussing with every 
> pattern you want to make.  You also don't really need to buy 
> comercial patterns, you can work from the design, if you understand 
> how you need to manipulate the basic pattern.  Aldrich's books will 
> give you a lot of cutting information so you can reach the period 
> look with very little manipulation.
>
> Hope that makes sense, and I haven't offended anyone.  I'm just 
> really keen on people not being frustrated with their clothes 
> anymore...

It does indeed make sense.  Thanks!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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I sent an email on costuming on MQoS to this list earlier. It was meant to
go to another list. Sorry about that. Long week already.


Bic
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Subject: [h-cost] Non-Elizabethan Tudor Corset a Myth! (was Princess
	Elizabeth)
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Status: RO

At 08:43 AM 2/28/2006, you wrote:
>Sounds like you're making a major effort!  So there's one thing you may 
>want to keep in mind... they did NOT wear corsets this early.  At this 
>stage, any bust support and figure shaping came from the kirtle! 
>Interlining and stiffening of the kirtle (though not necessarily boning, 
>and in fact probably only rarely) gives a bit of a corsetted look, but 
>there is no evidence of corsets this early; there is, however, mention of 
>the weird new thing a couple of decades later.
>
>The [Non-Elizabethan] Tudor Corset Is A Myth!
>
>-E House
>(I'd like to teach a class on this someday, but I have a feeling I'd get 
>rotten vegetables thrown at me in a very period-appropriate sort of 
>way.  So maybe a nice web article.)


While I agree with you, I would love to know the specific documentation you 
have on this. I am working on an upcoming show and tell lecture for my 
faire community where I deal with various Ren-faire costuming myths being 
busted by showing the historical images, if any, or other historical 
documentation that is available. While this was something I guessed at, it 
isn't something I've been able to show a "proof" of either way. I would 
love to be able to do so.

Thank you,

Kimiko


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