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From: "Katie Lewis" <katie_lewis@lycos.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 03:22:36 -0500
Subject: RE: [h-cost] The Libertine
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Bjarne wrote:

> Hi,
> I nust noticed a small advert about a moovie comming to Denmark called "The
> Libertine" Have any here seen it?
> What period is it?

I saw it and it was worth seeing once.  It isn't my period, but the costuming looked pretty good to me.  I would have to see the costumes in better light, the person who did the lighting was of the "The past must be DARK" school of thought and in general there was a too liberal use of brown and mud.  

A warning-the last 15-20 minutes is not for the weak of stomach.  There are lots of very tight close-ups of the the Earl of Rochester's face as he is dying from the effects of tertiary syphillis and mercury treatments.  I had to look away a couple of times and I'm not easisly grossed out.

-Katherine


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book wish list: Secular/Church embroidery
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I'm interested. What are you asking for it? I live in PA.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 2:18 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book wish list: Secular/Church embroidery


> Me, me
> Anne
> 
>>I have for disposal a book called "Byzantine Tradition in Church 
>>Embroidery" by Pauline Johnstone if anyone is interested?
> 
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book wish list: Secular/Church embroidery - sold
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At 12:10 01/05/2006, you wrote:
>I'm interested. What are you asking for it? I live in PA.
>
>
>>Me, me
>>Anne
>>
>>>I have for disposal a book called "Byzantine Tradition in Church 
>>>Embroidery" by Pauline Johnstone if anyone is interested?


Sorry, the book has now found a home. It went to the first e-mail I got.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn  (smell)
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Status: RO

This dress is caught in my mind.
Is it allogorical (sp)
http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/pages/page_id18374_u1l2.htm
I am toying with the idea of making it for SCA use.
Thanks,
Lyonet
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn  (smell)
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At 15:23 01/05/2006, you wrote:
>This dress is caught in my mind.
>Is it allogorical (sp)
>http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/pages/page_id18374_u1l2.htm
>I am toying with the idea of making it for SCA use.
>Thanks,
>Lyonet

Can't help, but what a wonderful resource. I have been to the museum, 
but a very long time ago, so it's great to see such detail. Thanks for posting.

Suzi


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I have decided to sell off bits of my stash I won't be using. I have packed it all onto a .pdf for anyone who is interested:
http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/sale_inventory.pdf
Mostly heirloom sewing stuff, some trims. I'll put it up on Ebay if there are no bites here.

Email me off list before Wednesday the 3rd if you are really keen. Otherwise I'll be back after the 7th.

Kathy 


Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131




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Kathy-

The site says Temporarily Unavailable when I try to view it.

Boo, Hoo!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On May 1, 2006, at 12:07 PM, Kathy Page wrote:

> I have decided to sell off bits of my stash I won't be using. I have 
> packed it all onto a .pdf for anyone who is interested:
> http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/sale_inventory.pdf
> Mostly heirloom sewing stuff, some trims. I'll put it up on Ebay if 
> there are no bites here.
>
> Email me off list before Wednesday the 3rd if you are really keen. 
> Otherwise I'll be back after the 7th.
>
> Kathy
>
>
> Its never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. 
> http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn  (smell)
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mischele1 wrote:
> This dress is caught in my mind.
> Is it allogorical (sp)
> http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/pages/page_id18374_u1l2.htm

Cool dress, but yes, it is allegorical.  Short sleeves are generally a 
giveaway, as is a slit skirt.  Now the lady to the left is more in line 
with "real" fashion.  She has her overgown pinned up to the back of her 
waist to show off the lining and her red undergown.

Melanie Schuessler

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn  (smell)
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On Mon, 1 May 2006, mischele1 wrote:

> This dress is caught in my mind.
> Is it allogorical (sp)
> http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/pages/page_id18374_u1l2.htm

The short answer: In all six of the tapestries, the Lady's dress carries
many elements associated with allegorical and fantasy figures. The skirt
slit is the obvious indicator on this one; on others, it's the heavy
jeweled hem or the headdress. But also the overall level of decoration.

The maid's dress is far closer to real clothing of noblewomen, but
occasional has some oddnesses (mostly in headdress).

The long answer was the substance of a presentation Verna Rutz and I gave
on this topic at the International Medieval Congress quite some years ago.

Even if my research hadn't shown me the linkages between the lady's dress
and other allegorical/fantasy images, I would have found it out just from
doing the reproductions (I made a version of the Lady and one of the Maid,
mostly from this very tapestry). Things like layers being in a different
order on the sleeves/neckline/hem... easy enough to do in a picture, but
no way to do it in real life unless you fake something. 

If you like this style, I encourage you to look at other secular
tapestries from the period. There are a number on hunting, winemaking, and
other courtly pursuits that are full of nobles without allegorical
significance. Look carefully, though, as often tapestries do tell tales of
historical or mythological heroes and heroines, and it can be easy to
confuse them.

--Robin


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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn  (smell)
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I remember seeing one on wine making - I especially liked one of the dresses. However all I can remember is that the dress was a long sleeved under dress with a short sleeve dress and (IIRC) a sleveless over dress.
Kinda like each over layer had shorter and shorter sleeves.

Hope this isn't too vague.

Katheryne

----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> 
> If you like this style, I encourage you to look at other secular
> tapestries from the period. There are a number on hunting, 
> winemaking, and other courtly pursuits that are full of nobles without allegorical
> significance.  
> --Robin
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Subject: [h-cost] I'm Back (Long)
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Status: RO

I am back from Florida!  Wow what a trip!  I was only supposed to be there for two weeks.  The John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art in Sarasota invited me to photograph their collections for a week.  So I stayed an extra week and took about 1,500 photgraphs.  Bradenton/Sarasota is a mecca for thrift and outlet stores.  I had to buy a second suitcase and ship back home five boxes of things we purchased.  I have two sisters who are addicted to shopping. 

When I returned to Virginia, I was hired to teach Contempary Fashion History (1850-1990) for the summer semester at Virginia Commonwealth University. One of my dream jobs!  I might be hired to teach it in the fall too.  They have opened up this course to the entire School of the Arts.

Back to Florida...

John Ringling was one of the five Ringling Brothers of the circus fame.  John and Mable also were big art collectors.  On my first day, we went through the Circus Museum and Cá d'Zan, the 47 room mansion of John & Mable Ringling, to decide what we wanted to photograph.  The house was completed in 1925 and was the Ringlings' winter home.  

The first shoot was in the circus costume gallery.  Most of the costumes were from the 1950s.  Here is a link to one of the photos of the costumes.    
http://www.costumegallery.com/Library/temp/Girl045A.jpg  Later that day, we did a photoshoot of the exterior of the Cá d'Zan. Here is a front view of the mansion: http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/2housefront150.jpg .   You can't see the mansion's tower  because the palm trees block the view.

Here is one of the many images of a Venice Carnivale that is painted on the Gameroom's ceiling of the Cá d'Zan.  http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/mansion4_035w.htm
 The artist was Willy Pogany, a famous children's book illustrator, costume designer for opera and theater, and was employed by Florence Ziegfeld.  This massive collection was painted in the mid-1920s on canvas in New York City.  Mr. Pogany installed the paintings in 1925-26 on the ceiling of the Gameroom.  I have not counted but there are about 30 very large paintings and several smaller ones of people in this room. I took 91 photos of the Carnivale ceiling. I laid flat on the floor to take the Carnivale photos.  Next I photgraphed the square columns in the GameRoom.  Three sides of each column were painted masks for the Carnivale.  I guess, there was about 16-20 columns. The Gameroom took up a large majority of the third floor.

Another ceiling was painted by Mr. Pogany, the Ballroom.   The ceiling is called Dancers of the Nations.  There are 22 panels of international dancers set in octagon gilded coffers.  In each corner of the room was a painting of a couple doing American dances.  I have the Ballroom webpages about 50% complete.  I have large detailed photos of each set of dancers.

You can see video of the Cá d'Zan on the Ringling website: http://www.ringling.org/tours/ca_dzan/court.htm .  When you look at the Ballroom, point your cursor towards the ceiling and you will see the Dancers of the Nations.   The official website for the museum is http://www.ringling.org/index.asp

A big thrill of the week, was doing a photoshoot of Mr. Ringling's wardrobe.  They have an extensive collection of his shoes, canes, hats, suits, and ties.  The majority of his wardobe was purchased on Fifth Ave. in NYC.  I spent two days photographing his wardrobe. 

The staff at the museum was wonderful!  I didn't get to visit their art museum.  I ran out of time.  But I was told that the art museum has a collection of 75 hand fans.
 
Penny Ladnier, 
Owner
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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Hi! Joan
   
  Thanks for your message!  The problem is that the bodice pattern is a hybrid of a Simplicity pattern and the 1569 bodice pattern out of JH's book enlarged to sort of the correct size (my daughter still has a bit of 'toddler tum'!), which I made without too many problems.  I drafted the epaulette base out of JH, which was too short, so I lengthened it, so in theory it would go around the back of the armhole, which I think is happening in the diagram on page 67.  The problem is that I am trying to make the JH pattern fit the Simplicity armholes.  I thought rather than make 'the square peg fit the round hole',  I would try some other Elizabethan shoulder decoration, and make it original, rather than copying a painting, but at the same time, I don't want it to have the Simplicity Halloween look!  I will have a go at the crescent -shaped shoulder decoration, and see how it looks.
   
  All The Best 
  Jayne

		
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Thanks  Melanie and Robin,

Just as I thought.  Guess I will be doing a bit of research.  It is sooo very hard for me to decide on just one time period.

Lyonet
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Subject: [h-cost] Short sleeves
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I know this is brought up every year when it becomes warmer.   I'm trying to remember if there were some images in some of the Book of Hours of women with mid length sleeves on women.

Roscelin
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Epaulettes
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Status: RO

Another simple one is to get wide gross grain ribbon, I like two inches or
wider, use about a half a yard per row, per armhole (for an adult, a child's
might not need as much) and usually two rows per.  You'll be making loops
about an inch and a half to two inches long(3 to 4 inchs total per loop plus
seam allowances), start at the front and place the second loop right next to
the first and work to the back where you want to stop it.  For the second
row I stagger it over the first, starting in the center of the first loop,
adjusting the length of the loop to what looks good, sometimes the same as
the first or shorter.  Usually I don't cut the ribbon until I know how many
loops and how long each piece is needed.  Pin in place again and sew down.
Tuck the raw edges inside and finish as required.

This can be varied with matching ribbon or constrasting, or even two
different colors in the ribbon.  Because you are dealing with prefinished
ribbon you don't have lots of edges to finish and the gross grain ribbon has
lots of body so it will have the curl long after most fabrics have flattened
out.

alex

On 5/1/06, Jayne Thomas <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Hi! Joan
>
> Thanks for your message!  The problem is that the bodice pattern is a
> hybrid of a Simplicity pattern and the 1569 bodice pattern out of JH's book
> enlarged to sort of the correct size (my daughter still has a bit of
> 'toddler tum'!), which I made without too many problems.  I drafted the
> epaulette base out of JH, which was too short, so I lengthened it, so in
> theory it would go around the back of the armhole, which I think is
> happening in the diagram on page 67.  The problem is that I am trying to
> make the JH pattern fit the Simplicity armholes.  I thought rather than make
> 'the square peg fit the round hole',  I would try some other Elizabethan
> shoulder decoration, and make it original, rather than copying a painting,
> but at the same time, I don't want it to have the Simplicity Halloween
> look!  I will have a go at the crescent -shaped shoulder decoration, and see
> how it looks.
>
> All The Best
> Jayne
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Win tickets to the 2006 FIFA World Cup Germany with Yahoo! Messenger.
> _______________________________________________
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Quoting Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>:

> Kathy-
>
> The site says Temporarily Unavailable when I try to view it.

I suspect that that PDF may be big enough to trip up the Geocities
bandwidth restriction.  I think I got 4 pages the first time I tried!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> If you like this style, I encourage you to look at other secular
> tapestries from the period. There are a number on hunting, winemaking, and
> other courtly pursuits that are full of nobles without allegorical
> significance. Look carefully, though, as often tapestries do tell tales of
> historical or mythological heroes and heroines, and it can be easy to
> confuse them.

Also, be extremely cautious of the decoration you see on garments in 
tapestries--At best, they tend to be on wrong scale for that garment; most 
commonly, they're completely wrong for the situation/social strata of the 
person depicted (for example, 4" deep goldwork embroidery on the edges of 
the garment of a hunter, or extremely fancy embroidery on the hem of the 
kilted up skirt of a peasant trampling grapes).  The overall style of the 
garment is often spot on, but the decoration on the garment is almost always 
"what looks good on a tapestry" rather than "how they would have actually 
decorated that garment."

-E House 

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <005f01c66d5b$7c51b960$6400a8c0@momlaptop>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] I'm Back (Long)
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 18:13:33 -0400
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Penny what a wonderful time you have had!  I look forward to viewing all the
info you have generated for us.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 4:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] I'm Back (Long)


I am back from Florida!  Wow what a trip!  I was only supposed to be there
for two weeks.  The John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art in Sarasota
invited me to photograph their collections for a week.  So I stayed an extra
week and took about 1,500 photgraphs.  Bradenton/Sarasota is a mecca for
thrift and outlet stores.  I had to buy a second suitcase and ship back home
five boxes of things we purchased.  I have two sisters who are addicted to
shopping.

When I returned to Virginia, I was hired to teach Contempary Fashion History
(1850-1990) for the summer semester at Virginia Commonwealth University. One
of my dream jobs!  I might be hired to teach it in the fall too.  They have
opened up this course to the entire School of the Arts.

Back to Florida...

John Ringling was one of the five Ringling Brothers of the circus fame.
John and Mable also were big art collectors.  On my first day, we went
through the Circus Museum and Cá d'Zan, the 47 room mansion of John & Mable
Ringling, to decide what we wanted to photograph.  The house was completed
in 1925 and was the Ringlings' winter home.

The first shoot was in the circus costume gallery.  Most of the costumes
were from the 1950s.  Here is a link to one of the photos of the costumes.
http://www.costumegallery.com/Library/temp/Girl045A.jpg  Later that day, we
did a photoshoot of the exterior of the Cá d'Zan. Here is a front view of
the mansion:
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/2housefront150.jpg .   You
can't see the mansion's tower  because the palm trees block the view.

Here is one of the many images of a Venice Carnivale that is painted on the
Gameroom's ceiling of the Cá d'Zan.
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/mansion4_035w.htm
 The artist was Willy Pogany, a famous children's book illustrator, costume
designer for opera and theater, and was employed by Florence Ziegfeld.  This
massive collection was painted in the mid-1920s on canvas in New York City.
Mr. Pogany installed the paintings in 1925-26 on the ceiling of the
Gameroom.  I have not counted but there are about 30 very large paintings
and several smaller ones of people in this room. I took 91 photos of the
Carnivale ceiling. I laid flat on the floor to take the Carnivale photos.
Next I photgraphed the square columns in the GameRoom.  Three sides of each
column were painted masks for the Carnivale.  I guess, there was about 16-20
columns. The Gameroom took up a large majority of the third floor.

Another ceiling was painted by Mr. Pogany, the Ballroom.   The ceiling is
called Dancers of the Nations.  There are 22 panels of international dancers
set in octagon gilded coffers.  In each corner of the room was a painting of
a couple doing American dances.  I have the Ballroom webpages about 50%
complete.  I have large detailed photos of each set of dancers.

You can see video of the Cá d'Zan on the Ringling website:
http://www.ringling.org/tours/ca_dzan/court.htm .  When you look at the
Ballroom, point your cursor towards the ceiling and you will see the Dancers
of the Nations.   The official website for the museum is
http://www.ringling.org/index.asp

A big thrill of the week, was doing a photoshoot of Mr. Ringling's wardrobe.
They have an extensive collection of his shoes, canes, hats, suits, and
ties.  The majority of his wardobe was purchased on Fifth Ave. in NYC.  I
spent two days photographing his wardrobe.

The staff at the museum was wonderful!  I didn't get to visit their art
museum.  I ran out of time.  But I was told that the art museum has a
collection of 75 hand fans.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Short sleeves
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roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:
 > I know this is brought up every year when it becomes warmer.   I'm
 > trying to remember if there were some images in some of the Book of
 > Hours of women with mid length sleeves on women.

http://www.folkstory.com/images/june.jpg
 From the Tres Riches Heures of the Duc de Berry

Sorry, I was writing in haste in response to the Unicorn Tapestry 
question.  Short sleeves do not always equal fantasy.  Caution is 
advised when there are short sleeves edged with some sort of trim, 
though.  (Have I got it right this time, Robin?)  And you generally see 
chemise sleeves rather than bare arms underneath.

Melanie, who will now be good and return to working on her French hoods 
paper

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Subject: [h-cost] need to change email address please
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My current email address is picmajik@aol.com. I need to change mailings to
my new address: picmajik@bellsouth.net.

Thanks!
I really enjoy the exchange of ideas on this site.
Debra

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Follow the link at the bottom of every email you get from this list to make 
those sort of changes. As yesterday was the first of the month you will have 
recieved an email yesterday with the subject 'mail.indra.com mailing list 
memberships reminder' you'll need the password in that email to log in and 
make changes.
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Debra" <picmajik@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:20 AM
Subject: [h-cost] need to change email address please


>
> My current email address is picmajik@aol.com. I need to change mailings to
> my new address: picmajik@bellsouth.net.
>
> Thanks!
> I really enjoy the exchange of ideas on this site.
> Debra
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May  1 21:38:37 2006
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Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 20:11:41 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Short sleeves
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On Mon, 1 May 2006, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:
>  > I know this is brought up every year when it becomes warmer.   I'm
>  > trying to remember if there were some images in some of the Book of
>  > Hours of women with mid length sleeves on women.
> 
> http://www.folkstory.com/images/june.jpg
>  From the Tres Riches Heures of the Duc de Berry
> 
> Sorry, I was writing in haste in response to the Unicorn Tapestry
> question.  Short sleeves do not always equal fantasy.  Caution is
> advised when there are short sleeves edged with some sort of trim,
> though.  (Have I got it right this time, Robin?)  And you generally
> see chemise sleeves rather than bare arms underneath.

There was indeed a short-sleeved underdress style in the 15th c. that you
see occasionally worn over a chemise with no overlayer. The women doing
fieldwork in the TRH that Melanie points out are wearing something similar
to this, but I have some hesitation about this particular picture because
of the class level depicted in this dress. There are a reasonable number
of images of fieldworkers, and this is the only one I've seen in which
they are wearing fitted short-sleeved dresses. I suspect that they have
been idealized for the purposes of creating an idyllic peasant scene for
the Duke's book. Actual peasants seem more commonly to be dressed as shown
elsewhere in that manuscript -- with looser gowns, and long sleeves.

Still, you can probably make a short-sleeved fitted dress like this
without too much problem, as there is support for it for middle- or
upper-class women. However, I have never seen a woman in a medieval
European image with bare arms, unless she is undressed.

Use linen and lightweight wools, and you won't be as hot as you'd think.
But of course it does get much hotter in many parts of the States, and
when you start dealing with those 80- and 90-degree temperatures, you're
going to have to make a non-period compromise to suit a non-period weather
situation.

(If the Middle Ages had occurred in Kansas, the clothing would have looked
different.)

--Robin


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-----Original Message-----
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Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 9:38 PM
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Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 395


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OK, Thanks anyway.


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One can also follow the link at the bottom of each h-cost message and 
request your password. The password reminder (the on-demand one as well 
as the auto reminder) will only come to your h-cost subscribing address(es)

another elizabeth (young)

Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> Follow the link at the bottom of every email you get from this list to 
> make those sort of changes. As yesterday was the first of the month you 
> will have recieved an email yesterday with the subject 'mail.indra.com 
> mailing list memberships reminder' you'll need the password in that 
> email to log in and make changes.
> Elizabeth
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Debra" <picmajik@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:20 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] need to change email address please
> 
> 
>>
>> My current email address is picmajik@aol.com. I need to change 
>> mailings to
>> my new address: picmajik@bellsouth.net.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> I really enjoy the exchange of ideas on this site.
>> Debra


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Short sleeves
Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 22:18:00 +1000
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Short sleeves


>
> On Mon, 1 May 2006, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
>
>> roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:
>>  > I know this is brought up every year when it becomes warmer.   I'm
>>  > trying to remember if there were some images in some of the Book of
>>  > Hours of women with mid length sleeves on women.
>>
>> http://www.folkstory.com/images/june.jpg
>>  From the Tres Riches Heures of the Duc de Berry
>>
<snip>
> There was indeed a short-sleeved underdress style in the 15th c. that you
> see occasionally worn over a chemise with no overlayer. The women doing
> fieldwork in the TRH that Melanie points out are wearing something similar
> to this, but I have some hesitation about this particular picture because
> of the class level depicted in this dress. There are a reasonable number
> of images of fieldworkers, and this is the only one I've seen in which
> they are wearing fitted short-sleeved dresses. I suspect that they have
> been idealized for the purposes of creating an idyllic peasant scene for
> the Duke's book. Actual peasants seem more commonly to be dressed as shown
> elsewhere in that manuscript -- with looser gowns, and long sleeves.
>
<snip> --Robin

There's also the early 16th century book of hours by Simon Bening which 
shows a very similar style of dress, which you can see here 
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/work/ (the second half of the page the first 
half has the Tres Riches Heures)
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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I have been looking for this site for ages, simply for reference. 
They are very, very expensive, but so droolable.

http://www.wattsandco.com/

Suzi 
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How expensive? I couldn't find a pricing.
De
-----Original Message-----
I have been looking for this site for ages, simply for reference. 
They are very, very expensive, but so droolable.

http://www.wattsandco.com/

Suzi 
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Subject: [h-cost] Shirt sleeves fastening - Tudor Tailor
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Someone recently posted a query about a shirt sleeve "toggle" 
fastening. As I have recently finished the job from hell, my brain 
has turned to mush, and I don't remember the poster, or the 
question.  If you would like to post a repeat to me off list, I can 
send you a copy of a   similar sleeve fastening from my research.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Off-set lacing holes
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On the discusscion of placing lacing holes off-set.  Does this concern any lacing holes during the Middle Ages through the Elizabethan periods?

Roscelin
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: ringling museum
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Penny:

You missed a wonderful museum if you missed the art museum! Two years ago on
a family trip we stopped to see the mansion on the free day (Monday, BTW),
and on the way out I took a peep in the museum -- WOW! Look straight in the
door and there is a GIGANTIC Rubens that just knocks your socks off. Well,
mine anyway. Two crying kids meant it was time to head back, but the next
year I planned an art museum trip!

I expected a small collection, but it's really wonderful. The Rubens is from
a whole series of "cartoons" he did for a set of tapestries about the
Eucharist prefigured in the Old Testament. I think the set is called "The
Triumph of the Eucharist." There is one tapestry, which I thought was rather
ugly, but there are about a half a dozen of these "throw away" cartoons,
which are gorgeous paintings done on paper instead of canvas. There are
rooms of medieval and renaissance stuff, and all sorts of other wonderful
things. The funniest part was the descriptions of religious paintings. They
were all written as if by someone faintly surprised at the whole idea of
religious painting, and definitely someone who couldn't imagine that they
had any religious significance NOW. "People used to think," "people then
believed," etc. etc. The catalogue on the Triumph of the Eucharist is even
worse. But it's a great museum and there are lots of pictures and sculptures
that are of interest to this list's readers, being different from those you
usually see.

I didn't see the circus museum, though! That was supposed to be this year,
but we aren't going :-(

Gail Finke

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Date: Wed, 03 May 2006 08:50:58 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off-set lacing holes
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roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:

>On the discusscion of placing lacing holes off-set.  Does this concern any lacing holes during the Middle Ages through the Elizabethan periods?
>  
>

I can think of a few instrances where offsetting wouldn't be helpful-- 
Venetian v-fronted gowns, for example. 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off-set lacing holes
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On Tue, 2 May 2006 roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:

> On the discusscion of placing lacing holes off-set.  Does this concern
> any lacing holes during the Middle Ages through the Elizabethan
> periods?

Only certain ones, depending on the styles, places, and times. You'd have
to look at art from the specific period you're interested in to get a 
specific answer.

In my experience, there are very few things you can generalize about in
such a wide span of time as "the Middle Ages through the Elizabethan
periods." 

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: ringling museum
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Gail,

I so disappointed not the see the art museum, but it would have cost me me 
$400 extra for airfare to stay another day longer.  The next day was good 
Friday and holiday fares kicked.  I could have stayed until April 21st and 
the fares would have gone down drastically, but I wanted to see my 
grandbabies for Easter.

There are so many good museums out there that people don't realize what 
wonderful collections they have.  When I looked at the Ringling website, 
there are small phots and very few of them.  They just added the videos of 
the mansion to their website.  I really didn't know what they had at the 
museum, until my preview day for the photoshoot.  The public relations 
director took me all over the site, but the art musuem.  The Ringling 
complex is a bit overwhelming.  There is so much there you can't see it all 
in a week.  You will see when all of these photos go online.

I was with the Keeper of the Ca d'Zan for four days. FYI, he is called the 
Keeper instead of curator because the Keeper is a European title.  It means 
the person in charge of the entire mansion. I was doing the shoot in the 
Gameroom.  The Keeper had very limited time that day.  He asked, "Don't you 
want to shoot the ceiling of the Ballroom?"  I asked why.  Then he explained 
about how it was painted by the same artist and was of costumed dancers from 
different nations. When I first went through the Ballroom on preview day, I 
was talking with the powers-to-be and didn't look up at the ceiling.  All 
the other days, we by-passed the Ballroom to go to the other floors. 
Because of the time constaint, I shoot the entire Ballroom 22 panels in an 
about an hour. All the photos in the room turned out wonderful except one or 
two.  They needed tweaking.  I think you all will be very surprised when you 
see the photos.   I should have all Ballroom webpages online by next week. 
Every bit of this mansion is so ornate.  It is like opening a Christmas 
package every time you turn a corner in the mansion.  You can tell it that 
it was made during the art deco period but is called Venetian gothic.  I 
took a lot of photos of  the mansion's detailed borders to use as 
backgrounds on the webpages.

I did photograph a good amount of the rose garden's statues. But didn't have 
time to stop and smell the roses.  I really wanted to spent more time in the 
rose garden, but ran out of time.  Growing roses is one of my hobbies.  The 
statue photos will go into my Costume Heaven series that contains costumes 
in statues.

I photographed a couple of the 18th Century tapestries in the mansion. Not 
sure how well they turned out because the photos are so large at this 
moment.   I would love to go back and photograph more of the tapestries.

The circus costume museum is the last museum before the mansion.  The sign 
is not very large.  I didn't get into the costume storage area because they 
are in the process of moving it.  The asst. curator said that it will be in 
its new location next spring.  I would also like to see the costume 
collection at their opera house.

If anyone if planning a trip to Orlando, you might want to take a side trip 
to Sarasota and visit the Ringling Museum.  It is well worth it!

Penny Ladnier,
Owner
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Web site of Ecclesiastical Fabrics
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At 20:19 02/05/2006, you wrote:
>How expensive? I couldn't find a pricing.
>De
>-----Original Message-----
>I have been looking for this site for ages, simply for reference.
>They are very, very expensive, but so droolable.
>
>http://www.wattsandco.com/
>
>Suzi


You need to ask for whatever fabric you want. 
When I was there 15 years ago or so, they had 
cloth of gold at over £100.00 per metre, and the 
fabric I used for the houppelande on my web site was about £38.00 per metre!

Suzi



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Someone posted two books that were on sale at David Brown but I can't find the email.  I've looked everywhere but it seems I must post to find out the name of the book I was going to look for.  One was on cochineal dye and the other was???
   
  Brin Kendall

		
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] corded petticoats
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Hi everyone,
I'm considering making a corded petticoat to wear under my Tudor 
(1530s-1540s) gowns but I've got a cotton velvet gown I'd like to wear over 
it and I'm concerned that a corded petticoat won't support the weight of 
about 3-4m of velvet. If anybody has tried wearing a velvet skirt over a 
corded petticoat  how well did it stand up to the weight?
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: ringling museum
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>
> If anyone if planning a trip to Orlando, you might want to take a side 
> trip to Sarasota and visit the Ringling Museum.  It is well worth it!
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner

I have a dear friend I grew up with whose (now ex) wife was the one who 
introduced me to Ren Faires and the SCA. His brother graduated from the 
Ringling Brothers Barnum and Bailey Clown College. He also was in charge of 
the jail at the Michigan Ren Faire the first year I went, 1994.

And you know, knowing that family, I wasn't at all surprised.

grins

Dianne 

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Earlier in the year, you may remember I made some costumes for a 
group of dancers called Danse Ecosse http://www.apux03.dsl.pipex.com/

You can now see a photo, if you are interested, here. 
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006003.jpg 
and here. 
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006008.jpg

The lady on the right in the first picture is wearing a dress copied 
from a Titian painting of Isabella of Portugal, which I made about 20 
years ago for a previous customer, which is why it needs re-fitting. 
And why the lady in the middle is not wearing a corset is a question 
I shall be asking the next time I see her - her dress looks great 
with the corset!

Suzi


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed May  3 08:33:32 2006
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From: "Natalie" <natalieae@voyager.net>
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	<6.2.3.4.0.20060503131636.01e1d0e8@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix
Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 08:32:55 -0400
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Status: RO

Hello everyone, I'm new to the group!

Suzi, I just wanted to tell you that I think these costumes are great!

Natalie


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Suzi Clarke 
  To: Historical Costume 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 8:23 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix



  Earlier in the year, you may remember I made some costumes for a 
  group of dancers called Danse Ecosse http://www.apux03.dsl.pipex.com/

  You can now see a photo, if you are interested, here. 
  http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006003.jpg 
  and here. 
  http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006008.jpg

  The lady on the right in the first picture is wearing a dress copied 
  from a Titian painting of Isabella of Portugal, which I made about 20 
  years ago for a previous customer, which is why it needs re-fitting. 
  And why the lady in the middle is not wearing a corset is a question 
  I shall be asking the next time I see her - her dress looks great 
  with the corset!

  Suzi


  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com
  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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	<6.2.3.4.0.20060503131636.01e1d0e8@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix
Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 14:46:47 +0200
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Hi,
OOOOOOOOOh, how nice they are. Great costumes, and gorgeous collours.
Thanks for the pics.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 2:23 PM
Subject: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix


>
> Earlier in the year, you may remember I made some costumes for a group of 
> dancers called Danse Ecosse http://www.apux03.dsl.pipex.com/
>
> You can now see a photo, if you are interested, here. 
> http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006003.jpg 
> and here. 
> http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006008.jpg
>
> The lady on the right in the first picture is wearing a dress copied from 
> a Titian painting of Isabella of Portugal, which I made about 20 years ago 
> for a previous customer, which is why it needs re-fitting. And why the 
> lady in the middle is not wearing a corset is a question I shall be asking 
> the next time I see her - her dress looks great with the corset!
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix
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> The lady on the right in the first picture is wearing a dress copied from 
> a Titian painting of Isabella of Portugal, which I made about 20 years ago 
> for a previous customer, which is why it needs re-fitting. And why the 
> lady in the middle is not wearing a corset is a question I shall be asking 
> the next time I see her - her dress looks great with the corset!


GREAT clothing! I love the one on the left in the first photo.  Anyone who 
needs to argue with a customer about *Why* proper foundations are needed 
should keep a link to the first photo. Even my unpracticed eye can see the 
difference. The middle dress is beautiful, but it would be so much nicer 
looking with the corset under.


Denise
Iowa 

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Date: Wed, 03 May 2006 15:16:07 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix
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At 15:07 03/05/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 5/3/2006 8:24:54 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
>And why  the lady in the middle is not wearing a corset is a question
>I shall be  asking the next time I see her - her dress looks great
>with the  corset!
>
>
>
>***********************
>
>I see you bumped her off before the 2nd pic.
>
>Very lovely. I especially like the all gold gown....the one hiding behind
>that big stone ball in the second pic.  :-P Bring her to the front, will  ya?!


That's my favourite too - lovely bronze shot taffeta, and subtle gold 
trim (well, compared to the others that is!). I hope to go and take 
my own photos later in the year.

Suzi

>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix
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In a message dated 5/3/2006 8:24:54 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

And why  the lady in the middle is not wearing a corset is a question 
I shall be  asking the next time I see her - her dress looks great 
with the  corset!



***********************
 
I see you bumped her off before the 2nd pic.
 
Very lovely. I especially like the all gold gown....the one hiding behind  
that big stone ball in the second pic.  :-P Bring her to the front, will  ya?!
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Does anyone know when the busks with clasps came into use? From the reading I have been doing, it seems as if the "busk" referred to in 16c costuming was a solid piece of wood or whalebone, rather then two seperate pieces that clasped together.

Natalie
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Can anyone tell me when this stitch came into use in sewing for joining two  
pieces of material?
 
Thanks,
 
Nancy
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In a message dated 4/29/2006 1:09:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

On 4/28/06, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> This is new, and Wow, I love the sleeves!
>
> http://www.simplicity.com/assets/4156/4156.jpg
>
>
> The skirt looks a bit odd to me though. Has anyone had a good look at
> this yet? Is it based on something real? I see they date it as "circa 1895".
>
If you want some excellent patterns for the Victorian period, try patterns 
from the "Truly Victorian" Company.  www.trulyvictorian.com

They have patterns from pre-Civil War (1830) through the 1890's. And their 
site has a photo gallery so you can see the different combinations of bodices 
and skirts for daytime and evening ballgown wear.

If you are looking for something that is more historically based, try this.  
You won't regret it.
I've made their bustle petticoat in a workshop at Costume College, and last 
year made my first 1885 bustle ballgown and the instructions were clear and 
understandable.

Donna Scarfe (Mistress Felicity)
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
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In a message dated 5/3/2006 2:59:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
natalieae@voyager.net writes:

Does  anyone know when the busks with clasps came into use? 


After the 1840s I believe. Before that it was a solid thing....bone [rarely  
whale bone though], wood, and eventually metal. The split busk has a few  
manifestations itself.... like the spoon busk of the 1880s. 
 
And it must be said it's really for ease in getting out of the  corset, and 
only nominally for simplifying the getting into the  corset. One should loosen 
all the lacing until it can be clasped around one  easily [at least you didn't 
have to remove the lacing altogether]. Then, once  closed up the front, the 
laces can be pulled tight. But to think you can just  wrap it around you and do 
it up and voila! is wrong. [some people try,  y'know.]
 
One of my old teachers at school hated spit busks. She thought they took  too 
long to put in the corset and didn't work well. She's one of those who  
expected to just do up the corset CF and be done. When she later became  head of 
the costume department, she had all the split busks on existing  corsets 
replaced with....are you sitting?.... separating industrial  zippers. Yep. And she 
teaches to this day, I suppose, her students to do this.  She thinks it's so 
very clever. I say she has rendered the corsets useless. They  have huge zippers 
up the CF fer Christ sake!
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Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 09:11:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] cloak hoods
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Hi all,
  I need some help with making hoods for (fantasy) cloaks, such as often appear in the movies like Lord of the Rings etc. I've searched though the internet and I found really a few, the only pattern I tried was one by Randall Whitlock - the page I got it from doesn't work any more - it looked like the hood on this web page: http://home.clara.net/arianrhod/Aldebaran/DoItYourself/Cloak02.html
  but instead of 33 cm it was 45 and instead of 26cm 45 again and there was no rounding, the hood was pointed. But that one was not what I wanted. It was not so wide and it was sort of standing out from the neck, I mean the hood was not partly lying on the shoulders, as often seen.
  I'm just asking if you have any experiences about that and if you have any idea how the patterns of the hoods here on the web pages could look like. One thing that suprised me was that I found that Galadriel's hood was of a semi-circular pattern, where the curved part was gathered to the neck opening. But it looks quite wide, I must say.
  http://www.jedielfqueen.com/lotr/costumes/Galadriel/cloakhood.jpg
  What do you think about gathering? Can you make a wide hood without it?
   
  http://search.msn.com/images/details.aspx?q=cloak+hood&color=both&size=1p&ht=400&wd=200&tht=128&twd=64&su=http%3a%2f%2ffantasy.dawndreams.com%2fcostumes.html&iu=http%3a%2f%2ffantasy.dawndreams.com%2fcostumes%2fcloakhood_blue_side.jpg&tu=http%3a%2f%2fimages.picsearch.com%2fis%3f2942056471169&sz=32
   
  http://www.cloaksofireland.com/pics/Renaissance/LadyAoife/Lady_Aoife_Large.jpg
   
  http://www.bodyhangings.com/cloaks/kinsale.jpg
   
  http://www.cloaksofireland.com/Kerry3.jpg
   
  Please, if you have any advice or some links on te web, let me know.
   
  Zuzana 



Zuzka


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] busks with clasps
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At 11:52 AM 5/3/2006, you wrote:
>Does anyone know when the busks with clasps came into use? From the 
>reading I have been doing, it seems as if the "busk" referred to in 
>16c costuming was a solid piece of wood or whalebone, rather then 
>two seperate pieces that clasped together.
>
>Natalie
>_______________________________________________

Apparently they were patented in the early-mid 19th century.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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I love the red dress on the left end@ Can you/anyone tell me about that one?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 8:23 AM
Subject: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix


>
> Earlier in the year, you may remember I made some costumes for a group of 
> dancers called Danse Ecosse http://www.apux03.dsl.pipex.com/
>
> You can now see a photo, if you are interested, here. 
> http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006003.jpg 
> and here. 
> http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006008.jpg
>
> The lady on the right in the first picture is wearing a dress copied from 
> a Titian painting of Isabella of Portugal, which I made about 20 years ago 
> for a previous customer, which is why it needs re-fitting. And why the 
> lady in the middle is not wearing a corset is a question I shall be asking 
> the next time I see her - her dress looks great with the corset!
>
> Suzi
>
>
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] busks with clasps
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>Does anyone know when the busks with clasps came into use? From the 
>reading I have been doing, it seems as if the "busk" referred to in 16c 
>costuming was a solid piece of wood or whalebone, rather then two seperate 
>pieces that clasped together.

Those soft pre-1830s corsets still have one-piece busks, and the 1850s ones 
have the two-piece ones.  So the change must have come sometime in between 
them, probably as steel became more common.  Sometime after 1850 petticoats 
go from starched cotton and corded cotton to spring steel.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Simplicity 4156 - 1895
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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I have this pattern; picked it up at the latest $1.99 sale. The
blouse/vest is faux and attached somehow to the jacket. For a commercial
pattern, the style and cut of the jacket is pretty impressive. But you
gotta be tall to pull off that mid 1890's look! The skirt is a bit weird
in the picture. I haven't looked at the actual pattern pieces, but from
the look of the skirt on the model, the possibility is 1)the proper
petticoats and little bustle pad aren't being worn underneath and/or 2)
the skirt is of too lightweight a fabric and not lined or interlined
sufficiently to hold both the shape and the trimming. 

I believe the intent of the pattern is for stage production and or for
turn-of-the-century celebrations many towns and cities hold in the
summer.  It is probably a replacement for an older Simplicity pattern
that was a kind of 1898-1901 Belle Epoque style. There were three views:
two blouse/skirt combinationations and a nautical top and skirt.

I am hoping to see some new patterns from Martha McCain in the
Simplicity collection, or something really 18th c, Directorie, or
Regency in cut. Since the "Titanic" craze is done and Martha McCain
covered the Civil War era so well, I'd like to see more authentic
patterns for other eras made for a wider audience.

Some of the current "RenFaire" type offerings can be altered to a more
authentic cut, for those of us without in person access to shops
carrying authentic patterns and fabrics--and when you are choosing
patterns and fabrics, there are times when you need to look at the
patterns, and handle fabrics and trims, not depend on the 'Net.

McCalls and Butterick are due for their summer pattern books, so they
might have some offerings as well.

Cindy Abel




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Subject: [h-cost] Re: cloak hoods
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In a message dated 5/3/2006 1:12:44 PM Central Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 09:11:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] cloak hoods

Hi all,
  I need some help with making hoods for (fantasy) cloaks, such as often 
appear in the movies like Lord of the Rings etc. I've searched though the internet 
and I found really a few, the only pattern I tried was one by Randall 
Whitlock 


Hi Zuzana!

The answers to your cloak questions can be found at LOTR_Costume@yahoo.com.  
They have done the Galadriel capes and others and could give you the help you 
need.  Also try the website - www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr . That is a 
treasure trove of things to make!

Good Luck!

Donna Scarfe (Mistress Felicity)
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
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Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:


>   What do you think about gathering? Can you make a wide hood without it?

You need some way to bring in the fullness at the neck, so if you don't 
use gathers then you need to take large darts.



>    
>   Please, if you have any advice or some links on te web, let me know.
>  

I'm not entirely sure what kind of hood you're looking to make. If you 
want one that lays on the shoulders, you need to make it taller, so that 
the extra length on the sides of the head can relax onto the shoulders.

If you don't want a point in back, then round it off.



Dawn



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At 22:22 03/05/2006, you wrote:
>I love the red dress on the left end@ Can you/anyone tell me about that one?
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>

What do you want to know about it?

Suzi

>>Earlier in the year, you may remember I made some costumes for a 
>>group of dancers called Danse Ecosse http://www.apux03.dsl.pipex.com/
>>
>>You can now see a photo, if you are interested, here. 
>>http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006003.jpg 
>>and here. 
>>http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006008.jpg
>>
>>The lady on the right in the first picture is wearing a dress 
>>copied from a Titian painting of Isabella of Portugal, which I made 
>>about 20 years ago for a previous customer, which is why it needs 
>>re-fitting. And why the lady in the middle is not wearing a corset 
>>is a question I shall be asking the next time I see her - her dress 
>>looks great with the corset!
>>
>>Suzi
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
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>


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From: "Carolann Schmitt" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] busks with clasps
Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 18:22:10 -0400
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>From "Victorians Unbuttoned" by Sarah Levitt:

"In 1853 Caleb Hill, a stay manufacturer of Cheddar, Somerset, registered a
version of what was soon to become the standard fastening: a split metal
busk, one side bearing studs, locked into 'keyholes' in the other. Many
firms followed suit."

I haven't had a chance to check the US Patent database to see what they
have.

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2007  


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Simplicity 4156 - 1895
Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 16:30:05 -0700
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I made a costume like this for a show once, but I put kick pleats where this
shows only different colored material. Maybe this was an attempt to get that
look without actually making the pleats?
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of FyneHats2@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 1:50 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Simplicity 4156 - 1895


In a message dated 4/29/2006 1:09:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

On 4/28/06, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> This is new, and Wow, I love the sleeves!
>
> http://www.simplicity.com/assets/4156/4156.jpg
>
>
> The skirt looks a bit odd to me though. Has anyone had a good look at 
> this yet? Is it based on something real? I see they date it as "circa 
> 1895".
>
If you want some excellent patterns for the Victorian period, try patterns 
from the "Truly Victorian" Company.  www.trulyvictorian.com

They have patterns from pre-Civil War (1830) through the 1890's. And their 
site has a photo gallery so you can see the different combinations of
bodices 
and skirts for daytime and evening ballgown wear.

If you are looking for something that is more historically based, try this.

You won't regret it.
I've made their bustle petticoat in a workshop at Costume College, and last 
year made my first 1885 bustle ballgown and the instructions were clear and 
understandable.

Donna Scarfe (Mistress Felicity)
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix
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Is that style of dress come from a specific portrait and called a certain 
dress like the Eleanora de Toledo gown? Do you have a place I can get a 
similar pattern so I can make one for myself? I have lots of popular made 
patterns but not that one. I love the red and the split front. Any suggested 
online sources or images I can refer to long the way?
I'm making one for my daughter from the Princess Elizabeth portrait 1545. It 
looks great so far. I love it. I can't wait to make one for myself. I 
thought of making several for us as we start our journey into Ren Faires and 
SCA events.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix


> At 22:22 03/05/2006, you wrote:
>>I love the red dress on the left end@ Can you/anyone tell me about that 
>>one?
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>
> What do you want to know about it?
>
> Suzi
>
>>>Earlier in the year, you may remember I made some costumes for a group of 
>>>dancers called Danse Ecosse http://www.apux03.dsl.pipex.com/
>>>
>>>You can now see a photo, if you are interested, here. 
>>>http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006003.jpg 
>>>and here. 
>>>http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006008.jpg
>>>
>>>The lady on the right in the first picture is wearing a dress copied from 
>>>a Titian painting of Isabella of Portugal, which I made about 20 years 
>>>ago for a previous customer, which is why it needs re-fitting. And why 
>>>the lady in the middle is not wearing a corset is a question I shall be 
>>>asking the next time I see her - her dress looks great with the corset!
>>>
>>>Suzi
>>>
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>h-costume mailing list
>>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] busks with clasps
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At 22:26 03/05/2006, you wrote:

>>Does anyone know when the busks with clasps came into use? From the 
>>reading I have been doing, it seems as if the "busk" referred to in 
>>16c costuming was a solid piece of wood or whalebone, rather then 
>>two seperate pieces that clasped together.
>
>Those soft pre-1830s corsets still have one-piece busks, and the 
>1850s ones have the two-piece ones.  So the change must have come 
>sometime in between them, probably as steel became more 
>common.  Sometime after 1850 petticoats go from starched cotton and 
>corded cotton to spring steel.

I believe crinoline, or sprung steel, was patented in about 1855/6



Suzi 


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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] faggoting stitch
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There are some 16th and early 17th century shifts that use something very
similar to hold the pieces together....
--Sue in Montana
----- Original Message -----
From: <MaddNancy@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 12:22 PM
Subject: [h-cost] faggoting stitch


> Can anyone tell me when this stitch came into use in sewing for joining
two
> pieces of material?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nancy


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Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 06:25:41 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix
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Status: RO

At 02:21 04/05/2006, you wrote:
>Is that style of dress come from a specific portrait and called a 
>certain dress like the Eleanora de Toledo gown? Do you have a place 
>I can get a similar pattern so I can make one for myself? I have 
>lots of popular made patterns but not that one. I love the red and 
>the split front. Any suggested online sources or images I can refer 
>to long the way?
>I'm making one for my daughter from the Princess Elizabeth portrait 
>1545. It looks great so far. I love it. I can't wait to make one for 
>myself. I thought of making several for us as we start our journey 
>into Ren Faires and SCA events.

No, the dress is not from a particular portrait, but is a similar 
style to many Elizabethan dresses. I draped the pattern from Jean 
Hunnisett's 1569 "Young Girl" pattern, as I don't use paper patterns. 
All the underwear is also from Hunnisett. The only thing I made up 
myself is the puffed oversleeves. All the dresses are based on the 
same pattern, except the Titian copy, which was based on the earlier 
pattern in the Hunnisett book.

Just Google for "Tudor Images" or "Elizabethan Images". I have a very 
large library of costume books, postcards and photographs, and as I 
have been making costumes for a very long time, I have loads of 
images in my head - I don't often use online sources unless it is 
something specific, like my recent request for pregnant Tudor ladies 
for a student of mine.

Hope that helps

suzi


>>>>Earlier in the year, you may remember I made some costumes for a 
>>>>group of dancers called Danse Ecosse http://www.apux03.dsl.pipex.com/
>>>>
>>>>You can now see a photo, if you are interested, here. 
>>>>http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006003.jpg 
>>>>and here. 
>>>>http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006008.jpg
>>>>
>>>>The lady on the right in the first picture is wearing a dress 
>>>>copied from a Titian painting of Isabella of Portugal, which I 
>>>>made about 20 years ago for a previous customer, which is why it 
>>>>needs re-fitting. And why the lady in the middle is not wearing a 
>>>>corset is a question I shall be asking the next time I see her - 
>>>>her dress looks great with the corset!
>>>>
>>>>Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix
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Status: RO

I have both of her books so I can start there. I've been researching 
Tudor/Elizabethan garments since last October so I'm always looking for more 
images to look at and study. I also have the Margo Anderson sets but haven't 
cut them yet. I've copied them onto other paper. I've borrowed the Queen 
Elizabeth Unlocked book from the library (lots of information in that one 
that I really didn't need to know). I've joined discussion boards for 
questions and tips. I've found so many I'd like to make but just don't have 
the money or time to make them all, so I decided on 2- an Eleanor de Toledo 
type and an Anne Boline one for when my daughter plays Princess Elizabeth. 
She wants us to dress alike but I think that is close enough. We'll be the 
same time period.
I love the paned sleeves.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 1:25 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Mary Queen of Scots" Costume Pix


> At 02:21 04/05/2006, you wrote:
>>Is that style of dress come from a specific portrait and called a certain 
>>dress like the Eleanora de Toledo gown? Do you have a place I can get a 
>>similar pattern so I can make one for myself? I have lots of popular made 
>>patterns but not that one. I love the red and the split front. Any 
>>suggested online sources or images I can refer to long the way?
>>I'm making one for my daughter from the Princess Elizabeth portrait 1545. 
>>It looks great so far. I love it. I can't wait to make one for myself. I 
>>thought of making several for us as we start our journey into Ren Faires 
>>and SCA events.
>
> No, the dress is not from a particular portrait, but is a similar style to 
> many Elizabethan dresses. I draped the pattern from Jean Hunnisett's 1569 
> "Young Girl" pattern, as I don't use paper patterns. All the underwear is 
> also from Hunnisett. The only thing I made up myself is the puffed 
> oversleeves. All the dresses are based on the same pattern, except the 
> Titian copy, which was based on the earlier pattern in the Hunnisett book.
>
> Just Google for "Tudor Images" or "Elizabethan Images". I have a very 
> large library of costume books, postcards and photographs, and as I have 
> been making costumes for a very long time, I have loads of images in my 
> head - I don't often use online sources unless it is something specific, 
> like my recent request for pregnant Tudor ladies for a student of mine.
>
> Hope that helps
>
> suzi
>
>
>>>>>Earlier in the year, you may remember I made some costumes for a group 
>>>>>of dancers called Danse Ecosse http://www.apux03.dsl.pipex.com/
>>>>>
>>>>>You can now see a photo, if you are interested, here. 
>>>>>http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006003.jpg 
>>>>>and here. 
>>>>>http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006008.jpg
>>>>>
>>>>>The lady on the right in the first picture is wearing a dress copied 
>>>>>from a Titian painting of Isabella of Portugal, which I made about 20 
>>>>>years ago for a previous customer, which is why it needs re-fitting. 
>>>>>And why the lady in the middle is not wearing a corset is a question I 
>>>>>shall be asking the next time I see her - her dress looks great with 
>>>>>the corset!
>>>>>
>>>>>Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 08:26:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cloak hoods
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm looking for a rather wide hood like on the links I wrote before - surely they must be tall, but the question is, should they be gathered or pleated at the neck or not. One thing I really can't think out is this kind of hood: http://www.cloaksofireland.com/Kerry.htm
  it looks quite Ok with me but the gathering in the middle of the back part surprises me. How could such a pattern look like?

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:


> What do you think about gathering? Can you make a wide hood without it?

You need some way to bring in the fullness at the neck, so if you don't 
use gathers then you need to take large darts.



> 
> Please, if you have any advice or some links on te web, let me know.
> 

I'm not entirely sure what kind of hood you're looking to make. If you 
want one that lays on the shoulders, you need to make it taller, so that 
the extra length on the sides of the head can relax onto the shoulders.

If you don't want a point in back, then round it off.



Dawn



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From: Jayne Thomas <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
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Hi!
  First of all, many thanks for the suggestions for the shoulder decorations, which I have sorted out!
  Secondly, just as I solve one problem, I have more questions!  At the end of April, there where some messages about eyelet placing (safely stored in one of many e-mail folders!), and I wondered if the same rules apply for my daughters bodice, as Jean Hunnisett (the pattern is on page 68) seems to have hers matching at the back, rather than offset, as I have read on this group. The back of my daughters bodice measures 23cm from top to bottom.
   
  Many Thanks!
  Jayne

		
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Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> I'm looking for a rather wide hood like on the links I wrote before - surely they must be tall, but the question is, should they be gathered or pleated at the neck or not. One thing I really can't think out is this kind of hood: http://www.cloaksofireland.com/Kerry.htm
>   it looks quite Ok with me but the gathering in the middle of the back part surprises me. How could such a pattern look like?
> 

I think you could do it either way, you could narrow the hood at the 
neck so there's no pleating, or you could cut it deeper so there is some.

The gathering in back, well, you just make gathers along the seam. This 
brings in the fullness so you don't have a point in the back.


Get some muslin and play with hood shapes. You can even make them in 
doll sizes.



Dawn


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In a message dated 5/4/2006 11:28:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
zkraemerova@yahoo.com writes:

How  could such a pattern look like?



*************************
 
Well....that's why you pay for a pattern if you can't figure it out.
 
 
But if you really want to know....it's on page 30 of Janet Arnold's 1st  
volume of "Patterns of Fashion".
 
I suggest you take a rectangle of fabric the length you want the  opening and 
the width being the depth you want the hood and start draping it on  a 
person...with a head....since dress dummies don't have heads, as I'm sure you  know.
 
It's basically a rectangle arched over the head, with the short sides  
gathered or pleated into the neck of the cloak and meeting CB...then the  back sewn 
up a bit [ to about height of the crown of the head...8" to 10" I  think for a 
big hood....but it's only like 6" in Arnold] and  the rest  pleated or 
gathered closed, fanning out from one point. To reduce some bulk  in the back 
pleating you can make that back side of the rectangle shorter than  the front [open] 
side...which makes it now a trapezoid with the short sides  slanting to the 
CB.
 
Did that make any sense?
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I think you are making this way more difficult for yourself than you need to.  There are several good hooded cloak patterns from the major pattern publishers available on the market.  You could also check e-bay if you are not in a hurry.  I have a couple of different patterns and have had great success with them.  Sorry, I am at work and cannot pull up pattern numbers for you, but I am sure that they are fairly easy to find.
 
:)
~Kimberley
 
-----Original Message-----
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Thu, 4 May 2006 12:24:15 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cloak hoods


 
In a message dated 5/4/2006 11:28:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
zkraemerova@yahoo.com writes:

How  could such a pattern look like?



*************************
 
Well....that's why you pay for a pattern if you can't figure it out.
 
 
But if you really want to know....it's on page 30 of Janet Arnold's 1st  
volume of "Patterns of Fashion".
 
I suggest you take a rectangle of fabric the length you want the  opening and 
the width being the depth you want the hood and start draping it on  a 
person...with a head....since dress dummies don't have heads, as I'm sure you  
know.
 
It's basically a rectangle arched over the head, with the short sides  
gathered or pleated into the neck of the cloak and meeting CB...then the  back 
sewn 
up a bit [ to about height of the crown of the head...8" to 10" I  think for a 
big hood....but it's only like 6" in Arnold] and  the rest  pleated or 
gathered closed, fanning out from one point. To reduce some bulk  in the back 
pleating you can make that back side of the rectangle shorter than  the front 
[open] 
side...which makes it now a trapezoid with the short sides  slanting to the 
CB.
 
Did that make any sense?
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: cordwainer
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The word cordwainer comes from "cordovan" leather, so it at least implies
making shoes out of leather. I don't know what a person who makes chopines
is called, but I did like "chopinero"!

GAail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] Lancastrian collars, the esses
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My friend replied to my inquiry About the Lancastrian collars.
He said oddly enough he is presently doing research on this subject and
collars in general.
What he presently has is more then an email could handle but will, when time
permits, send me a few sources.
My main concern was for the person wearing the collar in Europe and getting
in trouble with the law for "pretending to be.....". Answer to this, though
the wearer may want to check with the local customs and laws, if he is
wearing it with a costume he probably will not run into any trouble.
The collar was used as a token of office or as a sign of favor from the
Royalty. (So the Thomas More's collar may have been one or both)
>From my understanding of the conversation. If the person is trying to be
authentic to English wearing of the collar of that period he needs to be
noble and above in rank to wear it and know that if he is not of an office
that he is "saying " that he has the Royalty's favor.
My friend's focus is mainly with the English use of the collars.
Present day it is still used in some positions as a collar of office in
England.
If you find use of the esses collars used outside of England, I would be
interested in hearing about it.
Thank you,
De



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 21:07:44 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays
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Hi,
Today i got pictures from my client wearing the stays i made for her. In 
case some of you would like to see.
http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/stays_1740.htm

I also have worked a lot of the projekt with the new suit i am making for 
myself:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/2006suit.htm

It was nice to see that my client was happy with the result.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 16:57:17 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More Questions!
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At 16:43 04/05/2006, you wrote:
>Hi!
>   First of all, many thanks for the suggestions for the shoulder 
> decorations, which I have sorted out!
>   Secondly, just as I solve one problem, I have more questions!  At 
> the end of April, there where some messages about eyelet placing 
> (safely stored in one of many e-mail folders!), and I wondered if 
> the same rules apply for my daughters bodice, as Jean Hunnisett 
> (the pattern is on page 68) seems to have hers matching at the 
> back, rather than offset, as I have read on this group. The back of 
> my daughters bodice measures 23cm from top to bottom.
>
>   Many Thanks!
>   Jayne


Remember that Jean Hunnisett's book, while based on making costumes 
as accurately as possible from the research she had done, are 
actually for the theatre. sometimes, when working in the theatre with 
people who do not have the time to learn the "correct" type of 
lacing, it is easier to cross-lace, especially if you are touring - I 
speak from experience.

By all means use a single lace with off set eyelets if you want to. I 
think there are most kinds of lacings on clothing in paintings.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Corwainers cobblers... what's what?
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Corwainers cobblers... what's what?
I was at 16th dance practice last night and one of the gents said he
had to leave early to complete his cordwaining responsibilities. 
Since I know he's making a pair of chopines I puzzled whether this is
the right word.  Someone suggested "cobbler". Another suggested
chopine-ista, to which yet another said was a great name for the
wearer of chopines.  Another posited "chopiñero" (that's the spanish n
with the tilda on top) as the maker of chopines.


Corwainers  cobblers  chopiñeros... what's what?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.comñ

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Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 13:09:24 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays and your new suit
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At 12:07 PM 5/4/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Today i got pictures from my client wearing the stays i made for 
>her. In case some of you would like to see.
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/stays_1740.htm
>
>I also have worked a lot of the projekt with the new suit i am 
>making for myself:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/2006suit.htm
>
>It was nice to see that my client was happy with the result.
>
>Bjarne

The stays look good on your client.  And your new project is lovely 
(as usual).  I like your idea of embroidering over the ribbon.  I'm 
looking forward to seeing the entire suit.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corwainers cobblers... what's what?
Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 16:27:08 -0400
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Status: RO

Just checked my dictionary for 'cordwainer'and got a second note that
cordwainers also are/ can be specialists for certain parts of
shoemaking.(Perhaps the party-leaving gent had some tweaking to do in the
shop?)
I am not sure, but I think that cobblers were more responsible for shoe
repair and not necessarily shoe making.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 1:54 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Corwainers cobblers... what's what?


> Corwainers cobblers... what's what?
> I was at 16th dance practice last night and one of the gents said he
> had to leave early to complete his cordwaining responsibilities.
> Since I know he's making a pair of chopines I puzzled whether this is
> the right word.  Someone suggested "cobbler". Another suggested
> chopine-ista, to which yet another said was a great name for the
> wearer of chopines.  Another posited "chopiñero" (that's the spanish n
> with the tilda on top) as the maker of chopines.
>
>
> Corwainers  cobblers  chopiñeros... what's what?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.comñ
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays and your new suit


> The stays look good on your client.  And your new project is lovely (as 
> usual).  I like your idea of embroidering over the ribbon.  I'm looking 
> forward to seeing the entire suit.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net

Hi,
Many thanks.
The idea with embroidery on top of the ribbon was a new thing i learned from 
the book about 18th century embroidery teckniques. There is a chapter with 
an embroidered waistcoat, wich has a border ribbon, embroidered.

Bjarne
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Corwainers cobblers... what's what?
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A cobbler repairs shoes, and a cordwainer makes shoes. Chopines? I have no
clue :)

Talia

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 12:55 PM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] Corwainers cobblers... what's what?


Corwainers cobblers... what's what?

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.comñ


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000501c66fae$0adaec70$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays
Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 16:00:57 -0400
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Status: RO

I love that stay pattern. I might make one for myself since I've made my 
first one and it has taught me alot about this type of garment.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 3:07 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays


> Hi,
> Today i got pictures from my client wearing the stays i made for her. In 
> case some of you would like to see.
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/stays_1740.htm
>
> I also have worked a lot of the projekt with the new suit i am making for 
> myself:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/2006suit.htm
>
> It was nice to see that my client was happy with the result.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: cloak hoods
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Status: RO

I think Folkwear's Kinsale Cloak is similar to the one you're describing. 
http://www.folkwear.com/romantic.html
 
Their Burnoose pattern is also similar, but without the gathering on the back: http://www.folkwear.com/caravan.html
 
Tea Rose
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	<002c01c66fb9$20b67860$8d5083d1@rmitchellras>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cordwainers cobblers... what's what?
Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 17:20:35 -0400
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Status: RO

What era are we talking about? In the classic Brother's Grimm tale, "The 
Elves and the Shoemaker," the shoemaker is also referred to as a cobbler.

Dictionary.com defines a cobbler as one who makes shoes and boots.

Dictionary.com also says cordwainer is an archaic word for a shoemaker.

Natalie



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corwainers cobblers... what's what?


> Just checked my dictionary for 'cordwainer'and got a second note that
> cordwainers also are/ can be specialists for certain parts of
> shoemaking.(Perhaps the party-leaving gent had some tweaking to do in the
> shop?)
> I am not sure, but I think that cobblers were more responsible for shoe
> repair and not necessarily shoe making.
>
> Kathleen
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
> To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 1:54 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Corwainers cobblers... what's what?
>
>
>> Corwainers cobblers... what's what?
>> I was at 16th dance practice last night and one of the gents said he
>> had to leave early to complete his cordwaining responsibilities.
>> Since I know he's making a pair of chopines I puzzled whether this is
>> the right word.  Someone suggested "cobbler". Another suggested
>> chopine-ista, to which yet another said was a great name for the
>> wearer of chopines.  Another posited "chopiñero" (that's the spanish n
>> with the tilda on top) as the maker of chopines.
>>
>>
>> Corwainers  cobblers  chopiñeros... what's what?
>> --cin
>> Cynthia Barnes
>> CinBarnes@gmail.comñ
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] silk velvet!
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Status: RO

Late last night I was surfing the net and clicked on a link that someone 
here supplied for Distinctive Fabric. Much to my surprise they list silk 
velvet for only $19 per yard.

Being just a tad skeptical (only $19/yard *and* a 100% silk??!!), I emailed 
them. This is the response I received:

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Distinctive Fabric" <info@distinctivefabric.com>
To: <ailith@neo.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: Web inquiry (General inquiry)


> Yes it's a 100% silk, our suppliers claim it to be and our burn tests 
> support their claim. Feel free to order samples to judge for yourself.
> ___
> Distinctive Fabric Support
> 877-721-7269
> http://www.distinctivefabric.com

They've got a nice palette of colors in their special order page:
http://www.distinctivefabric.com/fabric.php?product=SILKVELVET1&palette=special_order&expand=1

Special order colors require a minimum 5 yard cut.

With regards,
kate



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Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 23:11:34 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lancastrian collars, the esses
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At 20:35 04/05/2006, you wrote:
>My friend replied to my inquiry About the Lancastrian collars.
>He said oddly enough he is presently doing research on this subject and
>collars in general.
>What he presently has is more then an email could handle but will, when time
>permits, send me a few sources.
>My main concern was for the person wearing the collar in Europe and getting
>in trouble with the law for "pretending to be.....". Answer to this, though
>the wearer may want to check with the local customs and laws, if he is
>wearing it with a costume he probably will not run into any trouble.

I never had any intention of getting a collar of SS's for my husband 
to wear, although someone did suggest it in answer to my query. My 
problem was always about SCA rules, not about English rules.

I have always found the College of Heralds very helpful if your 
friend does not already know about them, although he may have to wait 
a while for an answer if he e-mails them. I am very lucky as they are 
not far from where I live, so I can "call in" when I need information.

>The collar was used as a token of office or as a sign of favor from the
>Royalty. (So the Thomas More's collar may have been one or both)
> >From my understanding of the conversation. If the person is trying to be
>authentic to English wearing of the collar of that period he needs to be
>noble and above in rank to wear it and know that if he is not of an office
>that he is "saying " that he has the Royalty's favor.
>My friend's focus is mainly with the English use of the collars.
>Present day it is still used in some positions as a collar of office in
>England.
>If you find use of the esses collars used outside of England, I would be
>interested in hearing about it.

Thank you for passing on the information. I am sure others will find 
it interesting if they did not know.

suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk velvet!
Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 19:00:45 -0400
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Status: RO

Another place that has silk velvet is thai silks - www.thaisilks.com  Their silk velvets are between 16.00 and 27.00

Gwen
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ailith Mackintosh 
  To: Historical Costume 
  Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 17:28
  Subject: [h-cost] silk velvet!


  Late last night I was surfing the net and clicked on a link that someone 
  here supplied for Distinctive Fabric. Much to my surprise they list silk 
  velvet for only $19 per yard.

  Being just a tad skeptical (only $19/yard *and* a 100% silk??!!), I emailed 
  them. This is the response I received:

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Distinctive Fabric" <info@distinctivefabric.com>
  To: <ailith@neo.rr.com>
  Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 12:46 PM
  Subject: Re: Web inquiry (General inquiry)


  > Yes it's a 100% silk, our suppliers claim it to be and our burn tests 
  > support their claim. Feel free to order samples to judge for yourself.
  > ___
  > Distinctive Fabric Support
  > 877-721-7269
  > http://www.distinctivefabric.com

  They've got a nice palette of colors in their special order page:
  http://www.distinctivefabric.com/fabric.php?product=SILKVELVET1&palette=special_order&expand=1

  Special order colors require a minimum 5 yard cut.

  With regards,
  kate



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk velvet!
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I _think_ I have a sample of this somewhere already--If I do, and if I still 
have some bleach around, I'll do a bleach test.

Although, even if what I've got is actually 100% silk, I have to say--I'm 
not thrilled with it.  It doesn't look or feel very luxurious, has a short 
pile, and doesn't have much sheen at all. I'm kind of hoping that I have a 
swatch of a different velvet from them, because I've been hoping for a nice 
silk velvet for a while and if that's what it's like... sigh.  If my swatch 
isn't the 100% silk velvet, I'll order a swatch of this stuff and test it.

-E House
(hasn't had to actually _pay_ for fabric in a long time--it'll hurt if I 
have to!) 

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Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 00:12:59 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk velvet!
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Status: RO

At 00:05 05/05/2006, you wrote:
>I _think_ I have a sample of this somewhere already--If I do, and if 
>I still have some bleach around, I'll do a bleach test.
>
>Although, even if what I've got is actually 100% silk, I have to 
>say--I'm not thrilled with it.  It doesn't look or feel very 
>luxurious, has a short pile, and doesn't have much sheen at all. I'm 
>kind of hoping that I have a swatch of a different velvet from them, 
>because I've been hoping for a nice silk velvet for a while and if 
>that's what it's like... sigh.  If my swatch isn't the 100% silk 
>velvet, I'll order a swatch of this stuff and test it.
>
>-E House
>(hasn't had to actually _pay_ for fabric in a long time--it'll hurt 
>if I have to!)


I haven't found a source of 100% silk velvet in England that I can 
afford. What sells as silk velvet here has a rayon or viscose pile, 
and a 18% silk ground. It burns like 100% silk, and looks like it, 
but it is rather limp, without the body that silk velvet from earlier 
times has.

Could you remind me of the bleach test, as I would like to test my 
silk/viscose piece for fun.

Suzi


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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk velvet!
Date: Fri, 5 May 2006 11:39:40 +1200
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> >Although, even if what I've got is actually 100% silk, I have to
> >say--I'm not thrilled with it.  It doesn't look or feel very
> >luxurious, has a short pile, and doesn't have much sheen at all.

The silk velvet I handled from the 1880s has a very short pile as well. In
fact it looked and felt just like a good quality cotton velveteen (washed
and dried to soften.) I couldn't tell which direction the pile ran in the
sample though as it was made up into a cap.
I saw a documentary about Shakespeare at the same time and a bolt of crimson
silk velvet was rolled on a table which again was low sheen, fairly stiff to
the hand and again looked like a good quality velveteen on screen.
They were showing fabric because Shakespeare got a certain amount of red
fabric as did other people for some purpose (James' Coronation I think) they
were showing what the various fabrics could have been, they thought it
likely he got wool though rather than the silk velvet.

Needless to say I prefer velveteen I can get to the "silk" velvet I can get
for dress before the early 20thC.

> I haven't found a source of 100% silk velvet in England that I can
> afford. What sells as silk velvet here has a rayon or viscose pile,
> and a 18% silk ground. It burns like 100% silk, and looks like it,
> but it is rather limp, without the body that silk velvet from earlier
> times has.

That's what the vast majority of what is sold actually is all around the
world. If you can make burnout patterns, it's not pure silk. In fact the
pile is a cellulose fibre.1

> Could you remind me of the bleach test, as I would like to test my
> silk/viscose piece for fun.

Just put a small piece in straight bleach. The silk will totally dissolve,
the cellulose fibres will remain. At least after the first few hours. It'll
break down eventually.

Michaela de Bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lancastrian collars, the esses
Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 18:40:13 -0500
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My friend is the Kingdom Herald. :) But before he was put in the office he
was familiar with European heraldry and in particular English. He has
contact with European Heralds and I believe he belongs to the French, "Order
of the Holy Spirit" so I trust him on knowing Heraldic stuff modern and
medieval. But thank you for the recommendation.
De

-----Original Message-----
I have always found the College of Heralds very helpful if your friend does
not already know about them, although he may have to wait
a while for an answer if he e-mails them. I am very lucky as they are not
far from where I live, so I can "call in" when I need information.

suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk velvet!
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Thai Silks doesn't claim to have the 100% stuff, though--they've got the 
standard silk/rayon blend.  Neat iridescent velvet, though.

-E House


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gwen" <gwen@moonsandstars.com>
Another place that has silk velvet is thai silks - www.thaisilks.com  Their 
silk velvets are between 16.00 and 27.00

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk velvet!
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At 04:00 PM 5/4/2006, you wrote:
>Another place that has silk velvet is thai silks - www.thaisilks.com Their 
>silk velvets are between 16.00 and 27.00
>
>Gwen


If you look at the fiber content listed online, it is usually 18% silk, 82% 
rayon. Their "Long Pile/Flat Velvet, 50" " is 20%/80%.

If they carry 100% silk velvet, I haven't seen it yet.

As to the other store carrying 100% silk, I am willing to order a swatch, 
and submit it to a burn *and* bleach test, and see what happens. I'm 
looking for fabrics for my next project anyway.

Kimiko

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk velvet!
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Status: RO

Speaking as someone who owns quite a number of original silk velvet 
garments from the 19th and early 20th centuries:

The length of the pile, and the drape of the velvet, have nothing to do 
with the fiber content.

The modern silk/rayon velvets currently popular for "burnout" designs 
have the same drape as, and don't look too different from, the silk 
"chiffon velvets" often used in the 1920s.

Victorian velvets tend to be heavier. There is a type of (usually brown) 
silk velvet, or silk plush, which was heavily used to imitate sealskin 
for outer garments. It has a distinctly longer pile than chiffon velvet, 
and is much heavier in weight (and warmer). It is quite an attractive 
and plausible fake fur.

A somewhat lighter and shorter-piled silk velvet was made in any number 
of colors for non-"sealskin" outer garments. It was also woven in 
designs onto silk satin backgrounds for the same purposes.

Victorian dress velvets were shorter piled, closer to what we think of 
as a velveteen length, and somewhat lighter. Still, for a style with a 
lot of yardage, garments made from them can be quite heavy and hot.

Although rayon does not have to be shiny, modern rayon velvets tend to 
be very shiny, excessively so for my taste. Silk velvet has a mild 
sheen, considerably less than the modern 100% rayon, and only slightly 
more than a good modern cotton velvet. The latter is a better 
approximation of a Victorian velvet than most rayon velvets.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming and Vintage Clothing
http://www.lavoltapress.com



It doesn't look or feel very luxurious,
> has a short pile, and doesn't have much sheen at all. I'm kind of hoping 
> that I have a swatch of a different velvet from them, because I've been 
> hoping for a nice silk velvet for a while and if that's what it's 
> like... sigh.  If my swatch isn't the 100% silk velvet, I'll order a 
> swatch of this stuff and test it.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk velvet!
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Has anyone purchased from Anjorian silks? I like their colours.
http://www.anjooriansilks.com/silk-velvet.html
Aylwen

E House wrote:

> I _think_ I have a sample of this somewhere already--If I do, and if I 
> still have some bleach around, I'll do a bleach test.
>
> Although, even if what I've got is actually 100% silk, I have to 
> say--I'm not thrilled with it.  It doesn't look or feel very 
> luxurious, has a short pile, and doesn't have much sheen at all. I'm 
> kind of hoping that I have a swatch of a different velvet from them, 
> because I've been hoping for a nice silk velvet for a while and if 
> that's what it's like... sigh.  If my swatch isn't the 100% silk 
> velvet, I'll order a swatch of this stuff and test it.
>
> -E House
> (hasn't had to actually _pay_ for fabric in a long time--it'll hurt if 
> I have to!)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk velvet!
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On Thursday 04 May 2006 7:39 pm, michaela wrote:
> > >Although, even if what I've got is actually 100% silk, I have to
> > >say--I'm not thrilled with it.  It doesn't look or feel very
> > >luxurious, has a short pile, and doesn't have much sheen at all.
>
> The silk velvet I handled from the 1880s has a very short pile as well. In
> fact it looked and felt just like a good quality cotton velveteen (washed
> and dried to soften.) I couldn't tell which direction the pile ran in the
> sample though as it was made up into a cap.
> I saw a documentary about Shakespeare at the same time and a bolt of
> crimson silk velvet was rolled on a table which again was low sheen, fairly
> stiff to the hand and again looked like a good quality velveteen on screen.
> They were showing fabric because Shakespeare got a certain amount of red
> fabric as did other people for some purpose (James' Coronation I think)
> they were showing what the various fabrics could have been, they thought it
> likely he got wool though rather than the silk velvet.
>
> Needless to say I prefer velveteen I can get to the "silk" velvet I can get
> for dress before the early 20thC.

For what it's worth, it is possible to find *wool* velvet.  There's a high-end 
upholstery fabric dealer on Ebay called Carolina Fabrics that sells it.  I 
haven't ordered any, so I don't know what its hand is like, but it doesn't 
come cheap.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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The Silk Trading company in San Francisco sometimes has 100% silk 
velvet, but it is heavy upholstery weight and very expensive.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


> 
> For what it's worth, it is possible to find *wool* velvet.  There's a high-end 
> upholstery fabric dealer on Ebay called Carolina Fabrics that sells it.  I 
> haven't ordered any, so I don't know what its hand is like, but it doesn't 
> come cheap.
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk velvet!
Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 21:15:04 -0500
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> For what it's worth, it is possible to find *wool* velvet.  There's a 
> high-end
> upholstery fabric dealer on Ebay called Carolina Fabrics that sells it.  I
> haven't ordered any, so I don't know what its hand is like, but it doesn't
> come cheap.


There's also linen velvet--beeyootiful.

-E House

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk velvet!
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Could you remind me of the bleach test, as I would like to test my 
> silk/viscose piece for fun.

Cut a swatch of the fabric in question, and put it in a small, covered 
container with enough bleach to cover the fabric.  Leave it for a few hours, 
or up to a day or two.  Any protein content will dissolve in bleach, leaving 
behind whatever, if anything, was blended with it.  A couple of caveats: 
first, use relatively new bleach, as it looses its efficacy surprisingly 
fast; second, bleach, like everything else under the sun, has been linked 
with cancer.

-E House

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Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 23:01:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Silk velvet...a question.....
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Since we are talking about silk velvet.....

...If I can find it and offer it for sale, how much are you willing to pay
per yard for it?  And remember that it will have at least 3 times as much
silk in it as a dupioni or taffeta.....

You can send responses directly to me at dch@inreach.com

Thanks for helping me to know my audience better :~>

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 08:25:37 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lancastrian collars, the esses
In-Reply-To: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPCEIOGIAA.otsisto@socket.net>
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At 00:40 05/05/2006, you wrote:
>My friend is the Kingdom Herald. :) But before he was put in the office he
>was familiar with European heraldry and in particular English. He has
>contact with European Heralds and I believe he belongs to the French, "Order
>of the Holy Spirit" so I trust him on knowing Heraldic stuff modern and
>medieval. But thank you for the recommendation.
>De
>
>-----Original Message-----
>I have always found the College of Heralds very helpful if your friend does
>not already know about them, although he may have to wait
>a while for an answer if he e-mails them. I am very lucky as they are not
>far from where I live, so I can "call in" when I need information.


For anyone who doesn't know, the College of Arms (my mistake above - 
not the College of Heralds - wrote that in the middle of the 
night!)  was initiated by Richard lll, I believe in 1485. These are 
the people who supervise the granting of arms by her Majesty the 
Queen, and draw up mottoes, coats of arms etc.

http://www.college-of-arms.gov.uk/

Suzi


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Ah okay. :) That would still have confused me a bit as the SCA heraldry
"powers that be" are also called College of Arms. Though it is King Laurel
at Arms that is the head of the CoA.
I believe that he knows of them but to what extent I am not sure.
I pick up bits and pieces about heraldry from those who study it.
My main interest in heraldry when I find the time is heraldic display, which
I haven't found time of late as I have been quite busy.
Thank you for the url.
De

-----Original Message-----
For anyone who doesn't know, the College of Arms (my mistake above -
not the College of Heralds - wrote that in the middle of the
night!)  was initiated by Richard lll, I believe in 1485. These are
the people who supervise the granting of arms by her Majesty the
Queen, and draw up mottoes, coats of arms etc.

http://www.college-of-arms.gov.uk/

Suzi


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Subject: shoulderroll site...saragrace.us....was ....RE: [h-cost] Alternatives
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Whoops...I guess I never let anyone know...my site is here:
www.saragrace.us

Same ole stuff unfortunately...life has been in my way...

Sg (aka WickedFrau)

-----Original Message-----
 
http://web.archive.org/web/20050209184231/www.saragrace.net/3A_SHLDR_ROL
L_by_sg.htm 
(the original site has disappeared but fortunately it's still available
via 
web archive)  and you can try various ways of decorating it such as
faked 

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Subject: [h-cost] Plain Weave Silk
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All this talk about silk has got me thinking (dangerous, dangerous!)
does anyone here have a good source for reasonably priced plain woven silk? 

I'm looking for shot silk in a medium shirt weight, somewhat crisp. Never having had the pleasure of actually getting my hands on silk taffeta, I don't know if that would be the right weight for the project I have in mind.

I do know where I can get this in Toronto, but I don't get to that part of town more than once a year, mail order might be more convenient. :-)

Sheridan P.

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Subject: [h-cost] 1630s suit - breech waist
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Dear all
 
I am making a suit for a friend, based on the 1630s engravings by Bosse - doublet and breeches, since he already has a shirt and another friend is making his collar and cuffs.
 
What I can't work out is the waist of the breeches:  in Historical Costume in Detail, the development seems to be from points laced through the doublet to the outside, forming decorative bows (which remain after their functional job is gone) to using solid metal hooks on the inside of the doublet. 
 
None of this sits with the informal wear shown in Bosse, where the breeches are shown sitting at the natural waist or below the paunch since the doublet is generally worn open from mid-chest.  Would they be gathered onto a solid waistband and then buttoned (as the flies were buttoned) or was there a 'drawstring' type option?
 
Bucknell shows both styles, from the very wide 'bag' breeches to the narrower 'spanish' breeches, as being fastened to the doublet lining - but wouldn't that give (being blunt) the wearer a bit of a wedgy, especially since they are required for fencing?
 
I hope that someone who has worn or made a pair before has some feedback on their comfort - it's not a style I've ever worn myself and I ain't fond of modern trousers either! :-)
 
Thanks again - it's nice to be doing something different and a new type of research..
Katherine S.
 
"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright 
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Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 15:35:50 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1630s suit - breech waist
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At 15:19 05/05/2006, you wrote:
>Dear all
>
>I am making a suit for a friend, based on the 1630s engravings by 
>Bosse - doublet and breeches, since he already has a shirt and 
>another friend is making his collar and cuffs.
>
>What I can't work out is the waist of the breeches:  in Historical 
>Costume in Detail, the development seems to be from points laced 
>through the doublet to the outside, forming decorative bows (which 
>remain after their functional job is gone) to using solid metal 
>hooks on the inside of the doublet.
>
>None of this sits with the informal wear shown in Bosse, where the 
>breeches are shown sitting at the natural waist or below the paunch 
>since the doublet is generally worn open from mid-chest.  Would they 
>be gathered onto a solid waistband and then buttoned (as the flies 
>were buttoned) or was there a 'drawstring' type option?
>
>Bucknell shows both styles, from the very wide 'bag' breeches to the 
>narrower 'spanish' breeches, as being fastened to the doublet lining 
>- but wouldn't that give (being blunt) the wearer a bit of a wedgy, 
>especially since they are required for fencing?
>
>I hope that someone who has worn or made a pair before has some 
>feedback on their comfort - it's not a style I've ever worn myself 
>and I ain't fond of modern trousers either! :-)
>
>Thanks again - it's nice to be doing something different and a new 
>type of research..
>Katherine S.


There are good clear patterns in "Cut of Men's Clothes" by Norah 
Waugh, and in "Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620" by Janet Arnold. You 
will find the Arnold the most helpful I think.

(You can lace the breeches to the doublet on the inside, without the 
bows showing on the outside, or you can make hooks and bars to join 
them If your friend is planning on being particularly energetic, a 
theatre trick worth noting is to sew the hooks on so they hang from a 
short piece of elastic, sewing them to the doublet, and sew the bars 
to the breeches - it allows a bit more ease than sewing everything on tight.)

Suzi


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In a message dated 5/4/2006 12:49:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
chindora@aol.com writes:

I think  you are making this way more difficult for yourself than you need  
to. 


********************
 
It's not difficult at all.
 
But, like trying to describe in words how to tie your shoes, it sounds  
difficult.
 
Trapezoid...long end open...short slanted sides gathered to neck &  meeting 
CB....back sewn up a bit then the rest gathered or pleated  fan-like...VOILA!
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Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 16:19:49 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1630s suit - breech waist
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I made a man's civilian suit for myself when I gave up soldiering (to wear when I didn't feel like trailing round in petticoats). I used a borrowed pattern (Merchant Adventurers, I think). The breeches are gathered onto a solid waistband closed with two buttons, and not attached to the doublet (although I know that is correct for the period). I think most of the men in my group wear breeches with a waistband.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1630s suit - breech waist
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In a message dated 5/5/2006 10:37:08 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

(You can  lace the breeches to the doublet on the inside, without the 
bows showing  on the outside, or you can make hooks and bars to join 
them If your friend  is planning on being particularly energetic, a 
theatre trick worth noting  is to sew the hooks on so they hang from a 
short piece of elastic, sewing  them to the doublet, and sew the bars 
to the breeches - it allows a bit  more ease than sewing everything on tight.)




*****************
 
Yes, the elastic trick is good. And, if you want that open doublet look  with 
a bit of shirt showing at the waist, the breeches [hosen, really I guess if  
worn with a doublet] can be just hooked or laced across the back. It occurred 
to  me you can lace to tie it up with elastic, if no one sees it.
 
If you look at an etching ...
 
_http://www.relewis.com/BosseStudio.html_ 
(http://www.relewis.com/BosseStudio.html) 
 
_http://www.relewis.com/BosseStudio.html_ 
(http://www.relewis.com/BosseStudio.html) 
 
...you'll see how high the doublet waist is. A bit of shirt showing in  front 
[as in the man seated at the easel] just emphasizes this fashion  trait. Just 
linking them in the back would work for this. You'll also see how  full the 
breeches are in the crotch...and if the rise of the crotch seam is  sufficient 
in the back, no wedgies. I don't know if it's period or not but you  could cut 
the waistband wider [higher] CB than in the front. And split it  CB with a 
lace there like in some 18th century breeches.
 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 403
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Status: RO

Thank you all so much - that is extremely useful and practical help :-)
I've got PoF coming from the library so will draft from that, but definitely go for the elastic trick  and hey, if it's not authentic enough then it ain't my wedgy or me sewing the hooks and bars back on...
 
Looking forward to getting started and posting the photos eventually,
Thanks again,
Katherine S

 **********************************************
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 15:35:50 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
There are good clear patterns in "Cut of Men's Clothes" by Norah 
Waugh, and in "Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620" by Janet Arnold. You 
will find the Arnold the most helpful I think.

(You can lace the breeches to the doublet on the inside, without the 
bows showing on the outside, or you can make hooks and bars to join 
them If your friend is planning on being particularly energetic, a 
theatre trick worth noting is to sew the hooks on so they hang from a 
short piece of elastic, sewing them to the doublet, and sew the bars 
to the breeches - it allows a bit more ease than sewing everything on tight.)

Message: 5
Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 16:19:49 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
I made a man's civilian suit for myself when I gave up soldiering (to wear when I didn't feel like trailing round in petticoats). I used a borrowed pattern (Merchant Adventurers, I think). The breeches are gathered onto a solid waistband closed with two buttons, and not attached to the doublet (although I know that is correct for the period). I think most of the men in my group wear breeches with a waistband.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

Message: 6
Date: Fri, 5 May 2006 13:34:02 EDT
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Yes, the elastic trick is good. And, if you want that open doublet look  with 
a bit of shirt showing at the waist, the breeches [hosen, really I guess if  
worn with a doublet] can be just hooked or laced across the back. It occurred 
to  me you can lace to tie it up with elastic, if no one sees it.

If you look at an etching ...

_http://www.relewis.com/BosseStudio.html_ 
(http://www.relewis.com/BosseStudio.html) 

_http://www.relewis.com/BosseStudio.html_ 
(http://www.relewis.com/BosseStudio.html) 

...you'll see how high the doublet waist is. A bit of shirt showing in  front 
[as in the man seated at the easel] just emphasizes this fashion  trait. Just 
linking them in the back would work for this. You'll also see how  full the 
breeches are in the crotch...and if the rise of the crotch seam is  sufficient 
in the back, no wedgies. I don't know if it's period or not but you  could cut 
the waistband wider [higher] CB than in the front. And split it  CB with a 
lace there like in some 18th century breeches.
_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 403
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Status: RO

>I am making a suit for a friend, based on the 1630s engravings by
Bosse - doublet and breeches... What I can't work out is the waist of
the breeches:  in Historical Costume in Detail, the development seems
to be from points laced through the doublet to the outside, forming
decorative bows (which remain after their functional job is gone) to
using solid metal hooks on the inside of the doublet.
>None of this sits with the informal wear shown in Bosse, where the
breeches are shown sitting at the natural waist or below the paunch
since the doublet is generally worn open from mid-chest.  Would they
be gathered onto a solid waistband and then buttoned (as the flies
were buttoned) or was there a 'drawstring' type option?

There's an example in Naomi Tarrant's book/Scottish Natl Costume
Museum... 4 nice photos. to explain just how the hooks, WB and CF
stiffener work to create the look.  The doublet exterior fabric is
pretty well shot, so all the interior construction details are
visible, including a bit of whale bone vertically at the CF belly.  I
use a 19th style covered button placket as that's what Himself
prefers. There's no requirement in my circle for slavish historicity.

>Bucknell shows both styles, from the very wide 'bag' breeches to the
narrower 'spanish' breeches, as being fastened to the doublet lining -
but wouldn't that give (being blunt) the wearer a bit of a wedgy,
especially since they are required for fencing?

As a former kendo-ista & fencer, I'll like to recommend a fairly close
fitting crotch seam.  While it sounds counter intuitive, the tighter
fit actually allow more freedom of moment in the balestra, pasada
sotto, fleche & lunge moves.  I'm currently making my 3rd early 17th c
suit.  I also make the WB rather high, about as high as men's trousers
in the 1940s (think Bing Crosby in White Christmas).  Modern men dont
wear pants up there, but again, it may not be grunge fashion, but it
gives great range of motion.  Paunch or no paunch, that's where I'd
put it for mobility.

You might be considering skipping the breeches to doublet connection
altogether.  I'd recommend maintaining the connection.  Connecting the
doublet to the breeches WB, whether on not you use the elastic trick,
tugs the doublet down makes it hang smoothly over the body.

--cin
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Status: RO

>I am making a suit for a friend, based on the 1630s engravings by
Bosse - doublet and breeches... What I can't work out is the waist of
the breeches:  in Historical Costume in Detail, the development seems
to be from points laced through the doublet to the outside, forming
decorative bows (which remain after their functional job is gone) to
using solid metal hooks on the inside of the doublet.
>None of this sits with the informal wear shown in Bosse, where the
breeches are shown sitting at the natural waist or below the paunch
since the doublet is generally worn open from mid-chest.  Would they
be gathered onto a solid waistband and then buttoned (as the flies
were buttoned) or was there a 'drawstring' type option?

There's an example in Naomi Tarrant's book/Scottish Natl Costume
Museum... 4 nice photos. to explain just how the hooks, WB and CF
stiffener work to create the look.  The doublet exterior fabric is
pretty well shot, so all the interior construction details are
visible, including a bit of whale bone vertically at the CF belly.  I
use a 19th style covered button placket as that's what Himself
prefers. There's no requirement in my circle for slavish historicity.

>Bucknell shows both styles, from the very wide 'bag' breeches to the
narrower 'spanish' breeches, as being fastened to the doublet lining -
but wouldn't that give (being blunt) the wearer a bit of a wedgy,
especially since they are required for fencing?

As a former kendo-ista & fencer, I'll like to recommend a fairly close
fitting crotch seam.  While it sounds counter intuitive, the tighter
fit actually allow more freedom of moment in the balestra, pasada
sotto, fleche & lunge moves.  I'm currently making my 3rd early 17th c
suit.  I also make the WB rather high, about as high as men's trousers
in the 1940s (think Bing Crosby in White Christmas).  Modern men dont
wear pants up there, but again, it may not be grunge fashion, but it
gives great range of motion.  Paunch or no paunch, that's where I'd
put it for mobility.

You might be considering skipping the breeches to doublet connection
altogether.  I'd recommend maintaining the connection.  Connecting the
doublet to the breeches WB, whether on not you use the elastic trick,
tugs the doublet down makes it hang smoothly over the body.

--cin
CinBarnes@gmail.com

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat May  6 09:11:11 2006
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Date: Sat, 6 May 2006 23:09:52 +1000
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Subject: [h-cost] Silk Taffeta from 'Silk Connection' what quality is it (X
	post)
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Status: RO

Sorry to those who get this message twice but I wanted to catch as many 
people as possible.
Has anybody ordered the 'Spun Silk Taffeta' from Silk Connection? 
http://www.silkconnection.com/products/fabric/silk/taffeta/ it's a really 
good price (even if it is plain white) but I'm concerned by the fact that 
they describe it as Spun, because to me Spun silk is lesser quality stuff 
like Dupioni with slubs (as opposed to reeled silk which is smooth). The 
really good price reinforces the thought that maybe it's lesser quality. If 
you have ordered any Taffeta from them (or you've ordered their swatch set) 
what sort of quality is it? If there are slubs how frequent are they, could 
you cut around them if you were careful about where you put your pattern 
pieces?
Thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat May  6 10:41:47 2006
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Subject: [h-cost] [Flickr] Becca Rautine has invited you to join!
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Hi Historical Costume,

Becca Rautine would like to share some photos with you! 

I want to share my photos with you on a cool site called
Flickr. If you're bored with my photos you can explore
photos from around the world too!



Signing up for Flickr is free, and takes less than a
minute. Just click here:

http://www.flickr.com/welcome/1496775/334584/

See you there!

Becca Rautine


p.s. If you are not interested, just ignore this email.
Flickr won't bug you again and there's nothing special you
have to do.
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Fwd: [h-cost] [Flickr] Becca Rautine has invited you to join!
Date: Sat, 6 May 2006 14:35:43 -0400
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Begin forwarded message:

> From: "Becca Rautine (via Flickr)" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
> Date: May 6, 2006 10:39:06 AM EDT
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Cc: Subject: [h-cost] [Flickr] Becca Rautine has invited you to join!
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>
> Hi Historical Costume,
>
> Becca Rautine would like to share some photos with you!
>
> I want to share my photos with you on a cool site called
> Flickr. If you're bored with my photos you can explore
> photos from around the world too!
>
>
>
> Signing up for Flickr is free, and takes less than a
> minute. Just click here:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/welcome/1496775/334584/
>
> See you there!
>
> Becca Rautine
>
>
> p.s. If you are not interested, just ignore this email.
> Flickr won't bug you again and there's nothing special you
> have to do.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat May  6 14:42:53 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sat, 6 May 2006 20:41:49 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] drape of things
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Hi the list.
I wondered if any here could explain to me, if a cotton rayon blend damask 
weave would drape the same way as a silk damask? I have this lovely brocade 
dark ivory, and it falls a little heavy. It is a dress fabric, i baught it 
some years ago.
I thoaght about making something like the yellow damask silk from Koehler, 
fig. 424. Its a jacket and skirt. To me the skirt seems to have more of a 
dome shaped pannier, than a side extended pannier, what do you think, and 
another question, could i use the Diderot Stays for this?
I wanted to make some alterations, i would make the jacket closed with 
ribbon lacing.  The sleaves i would make pleated cuffs.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Oseberg textiles book now available
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It's at the museum shop in Oslo and ready to be mailed out, folks!   Please 
pass this info to anyone who might be interested.
 
"Oseberg Textiles" by Arne Emil Christensen and Margareta Nockert, 400  pages 
ISBN 82-8984-024-9
 
990 NOK (Norwegian kroner) + 100 NOK postage (Total, this is about $173  
USD.)  They do not take credit cards, so you need to either send cash or  perhaps 
arrange for a bank transfer.  (I got the money at the  airport.)
 
The text is, alas, in Norwegian -- why, in the name of all that's holy,  they 
didn't do it in English is completely beyond me -- but there  are English 
summaries as well as captions in both Norwegian and  English.  
 
Here is who to contact to purchase this book.
 
Jorun Groenli Kruse
foerstesekretaer, museumsbutikken
Kulturhistoriske Museum, Universitetet i Oslo
Postboks 6762, St. Olavs Plass
N - 0130 Oslo
Norway
 
Jorun Kruse's email address is _j.g.kruse@khm.uio.no_ 
(mailto:j.g.kruse@khm.uio.no)  and the URL for the  museum web page is _www.khm.uio.no_ 
(http://www.khm.uio.no) .  
 
Nancy  

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 
Ingvild  Josefsdatter, OL
Kingdom of Atlantia

"But if by 'Liberal' they mean  someone who looks ahead and not behind, 
someone who welcomes new ideas without  rigid reactions, someone who cares about 
the welfare of the people -- their  health, their housing, their schools, their 
jobs, their civil rights, and their  civil liberties -- someone who believes 
we can break through the stalemate and  suspicions that grip us in our policies 
abroad, if that is what they mean by  'Liberal', then I'm proud to say I'm a 
'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept  1960

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Status: RO

Got my MCT Book last week.  My only Question:

Robin!  Are we going to have to wait a WHOLE YEAR for another?  Are they
taking pre-orders yet?

Regina Romsey/Wanda in Portland


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oseberg textiles book now available
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Thanks.  I was wondering how to get my hands on a copy if I did decide to pay 
the cover price.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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Subject: [h-cost] Smithsonian's National Museum of American History
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I *think* that I remembered to let you all know that the museum is 
closing for renovations in September.  I just wanted to add that there 
are many exhibits closing before that, in preparation (there are quite a 
number remaining open through Labor Day as well).

The Textiles Hall *is* closing this month, although a specific date 
hasn't been given yet.  Finally found the lists of closing and 
not-closing on the web.... but I *have* noticed that the closing soon 
list doesn't *quite* match up with what I got in my docent e-mail 
(sorry, deleted it...but remember the list as longer... may have 
included a few specific items from other exhibits or something...).

Closing before September 4th:
http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/exhibition.cfm?key=38&exkey=792#closing

Remaining open until the museum closes end of day September 4th:
http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/exhibition.cfm?key=38&exkey=792#open

Oh.. and the older First Ladies dresses *are* scheduled to be removed 
from public view some time in July.

-Elisabeth

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Subject: [h-cost] 1630s suit again
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Dear Cin
 
>There's an example in Naomi Tarrant's book/Scottish Natl Costume
>Museum...
 
Naomi T. has written several books - do you remember exactly which one? I /may/ even try to swing a viewing, since I'm right here in Edinburgh :-) 
 
Your practical feedback is also great. I just find modern trousers a real pain in the behind, so don't wear them if I can help it. I think I understand why the closer fitting seam would work - I assume the legs were still full?
 
Thanks again, this is invaluable advice,
 
Katherine S. 
 
"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
"Are you tugging my squirrel?"
"...I will answer your questions but only in the language of a crow..." 
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Status: RO

>>There's an example in Naomi Tarrant's book/Scottish Natl Costume
>>Museum...
>Naomi T. has written several books - do you remember exactly which one?
> I /may/ even try to swing a viewing, since I'm right here in Edinburgh :-)

Katherine S,,
Consider me insanely jealous!  I dont suppose you could manage a color
photo or 2?  I've never seen the whole thing, except those B/W pics in
the book.

Tarrant: Pink with Moroni's tailor on the front; probably History or
Development of Dress/Costume/Fashion.  All the good books have
essentially the same name. She has croquis of the Marie of Hungary
gown, the Charles de Blois pourpoint and a few others mixed in the
text.

>Your practical feedback is also great. I just find modern trousers a real pain
>in the behind, so don't wear them if I can help it. I think I understand why
> the closer fitting seam would work - I assume the legs were still full?

>Thanks again, this is invaluable advice,

On one suit, I have 8" wearing ease at mid-thigh.  On another 10", so
yes, very full compared to modern pants.  (For WAG calibration
purposes, the gentleman who wears these Stuart suits, wears Levi's
31"-32", he's quite skinny.)  OTOH. compared to the Elizabethan
trunkhose I made recently, the legs are not very full at all.
Dont forget that men squat to pick up things, fencers get pretty
active, so you'll need leg length 'round the butt & over the knee.
Next, depending on where you put the breeches cuff, you'll need to
account for flexed thigh or upper-calf muscles which bulk up.  Garters
are either a treasure or a torture for active people. Treasure, when
they move smoothly, torture when they slip or pinch. Dont tell anyone,
but I've been known to use a 2" piece of elastic tucked inside a cuff,
at the inside-back of the knee.  <shhhh!>

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Visit 'Am I Period or Not' to submit your photos and
	critique others.
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Good evening all,
Many of the costumers out there will already have heard about 'Am I Period
or Not' (or AIPON for short) but recently the flow of new photo submissions
has slowed to a trickle (we've had one new photo in the last three months),
so for those who have never heard of it or those who have new outfits (or
new photos of old outfits) please consider submitting a photo of your work
and enjoy the virtual adulation of people all across the globe. The
re-enactment season is starting up soon in the Northern Hemisphere so if
you've made something new over the winter send us a photo while it's still
pristine so in a few years time you can show people how good it used to look
before it got dragged through the mud, torn, mended, mysteriously stained
etc. ;-)
If you have a photo of a costume you have made, from any period of history,
please submit it to 'Am I Period Or Not'
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/ . The 16th century costumers still
seem to be the most productive set (with more photos submitted than any
other era), with the 19th century a close second. But there are so many
other styles out there and it would be fabulous if we could see what
costumers have been doing in all eras (even ones that never really existed
like Lord of the Rings). Our Dark Ages and Byzantine section remains sadly
empty, but I know there are a lot of Viking costumers who do some
spectacular work (of course the section is not just for Vikings but Viking
history is very popular with re-enactors).
Please pass this on to anybody you think would be interested, after all it's
much quicker and simpler to email a photo to us (see
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/photos.htm for submission rules) than
setting up your own webpage (even if you do have your own webpage you can
always put photos of your work on AIPON and include a link to your webpage
to give people the full story).
If you are unfamiliar with the concept here's a brief summary: People send
in photos of the historical costumes they've made, the photos are loaded
onto a website where people can view them, vote on how period accurate they
are (or in the case of fantasy creations how creative or accurate to what
they are recreating) and leave comments. While the original site (run by
Kirrily Roberts a few years ago) was for pre 1600 costume only The New Am I
Period Or Not website covers the fashions of any era you like, from the
first civilisations to the day before yesterday (plus imaginary eras).
The comments on the website are monitored and any offensive content will be
removed as soon as we (the moderating team) are aware of it, we can't
guarantee that such comments won't be posted but we can guarantee that we
will do our best to keep on top of it and remove comments as soon as
possible.
I hope to see a flood of new and interesting photos in response to this
email.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/


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Subject: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
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Hello everyone,

I am looking for some guidance on the Eleanor of Toledo gown. I have read 
over Janet Arnold's write up of this dress and the book describes not one, 
but two bodices based on remnants of the actual dress. The first bodice was 
of velvet, and fastens at the front with hooks and eyes, and lined with 
linen, but no matching skirt was found, although there are stitch-holes in 
the waist.

The second bodice is of satin, with two seams at the back. It may have been 
lined, but the evidence is not clear, per Arnold.

The book theorizes that the velvet bodice may have been a corset with bents, 
or a "pair of bodies," set into the linen lining, to support an underskirt 
of velvet.

So that's the back story. Based on that gown and the Elizabeth 1575 gown, I 
have designed the following: 
http://www.fantasy-sewing.com/images/dressconcept.jpg

My question is, if I wear a standard corset and farthingale, is there really 
any need for the heavy under-bodice/skirt combo (kirtle?)? I am not sure yet 
what I will make the overdress of, but it will probably be interlined 
brocade, with something lighter for the underskirt and an interchangeable 
forepart. I live in Michigan, and the faires here are held in the late heat 
of summer, so I don't want to make it too heavy!

Natalie 

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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: GBACGcostumers@yahoogroups.com, "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] PBS Mystery - Jericho
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Hi all, and sorry for the cross-post,

For those of us who believe that historic clothing does actually bleed
into the 20th Century, did anyone watch the two-part Mystery over the
past week? It's from the UK and is called "Jericho" from, I believe,
books of the same name. (I missed the the credits while getting tea in
preparation of watching the program. The mystery took place in 1950s
London, and the clothes were FABulous, from the maid's outfit to the
New Look dresses to the casual clothes worn by the Jamican men. The
police look rumpled and wear overcoats everywhere. The makeup and hair
were really well done; my daughter didn't have to hear either mom or
dad complain about anything.

I'm sorry I didn't mention it last week after the first half of the
first mystery, but I didn't want to tease anyone who hadn't seen the
first part. Now that I know there will be more mysteries in this
series, I'd like to recommend them to you.

Lynn
Born in 1952, so I can remember some of the clothing in the program

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Mystery - Jericho
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In a message dated 5/8/2006 7:33:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lynndownward@gmail.com writes:


For  those of us who believe that historic clothing does actually bleed
into the  20th Century,


*****************************
 
Why would anyone think other than this? It was LAST century, after  all. 
Those styles worn in 1906 [the year Cokacola stopped putting cocaine in the  soft 
drink and the year of "rural free delivery"...which made Sears a major  
company] they're 100 years old! Most would consider them a "period". Even in the  
1970s when I was studying costume in school, the 1920s , 30s, 40s and even the  
50s were considered "period". Now the 70s are period! Even the 80's with those 
 dropped waist, shoulder padded dresses worn with big hair, or the "Dynasty" 
look  would be considered more than just old fashioned.
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
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Hi Natalie--
You can make the gown without an underbodice and kirtle over a  corset. How
many people at  the Faire will notice? You are the one dealing with the
heat!

About The Eleonora dress:

The red velvet pair of bodies was lines with (believe it or not) paper. It
had no bones. You could probably substitute a hair canvas or a type of
buckram that does not react to heat/ sweat. It was not made for the gown she
was buried in-- it was too big and had a different waistline.

Now here is the story behind this. Eleonora died in December of 1562 and was
NOT embalmed. Getting from Pisa, where she died, to Florence, where she was
buried, took days since she was being moved in a "train" with wagons and
horses, etc. I am sure that there was not a lot of ice around in those days
("Poor Judd is dead" the song from "Oklahoma" tells of the down side of
being kept unburied without ice...) At any rate, by the time she got home,
people were probably moving at warp 9 to get her dressed in something
appropriate. Cosimo her husband was very distraught, (he had just lost 2
sons and a daughter within a very short time before Eleonora died, so "crazy
with grief" was probably a good way to describe it), but he wanted his wife
to be properly dressed-- jewels included-- for her appointment with her
Maker.

If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about the
velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from TB
on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death. In
the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended
for the modern woman). The velvet bodice MIGHT have been something she wore
as a substitute when breathing became difficult (my hypothesis). In the
severe stages of TB there is terrible weight loss. If you look at some of
the pics by Bronzino you can see how she gained weight over the course of
her many (11) pregnancies, and then lost a lot of weight at the end. She was
one sick lady. And putting the malaria on top of it, well, it is no surprise
that the stuff in her wardrobe did not fit. The velvet bodice was probably
more of a grave wrapping to keep her upper body set while the people were
trying to get her gown laced. If you notice the gown is not laced through
every hole-- they were working fast probably. And who would think that 500
years later what she wore in her grave would be the subject of such intense
scrutiny? (The grave robbers who took her jewels flipped the body over, so
that is why the back of the dress and velvet bodice are in such good shape.
The body decays from the top down-- gravity and all that!)

Eleonora's dress was probably lined in linen. Since linen is a natural
fiber, it decomposes in the grave. It also protected the satin of the dress
from the same fate, but if the body had been left to decompose long enough
everything probably would have gone.

The latest book on Eleonora, "Moda di Firenze"
http://www.artbooks.com/wc.dll?ab~searchitemno~0~45409  gives a lot of
details on the EoT gown and the restoration of both pieces. The skirt was
cut so it would be worn without a forepart.

Janet Arnold did the preliminary work on the gown, but died prior to this
new book being released. Her theory was the gown probably had an embroidered
smock and no sleeves. She also theorized that Eleonora probably wore a
farthingale, because she was Spanish. The waistline of her gown was more
rounded than the Elizabethan style of 1575, and had a different silhouette
then the Eleonora gown from the Bronzino painting, which was 30 years
earlier.


Good luck with the gown!
Best Regards-
Monica






-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Natalie
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help


Hello everyone,

I am looking for some guidance on the Eleanor of Toledo gown. I have read
over Janet Arnold's write up of this dress and the book describes not one,
but two bodices based on remnants of the actual dress. The first bodice was
of velvet, and fastens at the front with hooks and eyes, and lined with
linen, but no matching skirt was found, although there are stitch-holes in
the waist.

The second bodice is of satin, with two seams at the back. It may have been
lined, but the evidence is not clear, per Arnold.

The book theorizes that the velvet bodice may have been a corset with bents,
or a "pair of bodies," set into the linen lining, to support an underskirt
of velvet.

So that's the back story. Based on that gown and the Elizabeth 1575 gown, I
have designed the following:
http://www.fantasy-sewing.com/images/dressconcept.jpg

My question is, if I wear a standard corset and farthingale, is there really
any need for the heavy under-bodice/skirt combo (kirtle?)? I am not sure yet
what I will make the overdress of, but it will probably be interlined
brocade, with something lighter for the underskirt and an interchangeable
forepart. I live in Michigan, and the faires here are held in the late heat
of summer, so I don't want to make it too heavy!

Natalie

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Natalie" <natalieae@voyager.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <NJEJJAKCDDIJCJLBNKFIMENEDBAA.monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
Date: Mon, 8 May 2006 20:23:23 -0400
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Status: RO

Monica,

Thanks for the insight! I knew she had had many children, and was a woman of 
substance (like me!) but I didn't know how she had died. The velvet bodice 
makes perfect sense as an alternative to the steel corset for an aging/dying 
woman.

Thanks for the help!

Natalie


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 8:04 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help


> Hi Natalie--
> You can make the gown without an underbodice and kirtle over a  corset. 
> How
> many people at  the Faire will notice? You are the one dealing with the
> heat!
>
> About The Eleonora dress:
>
> The red velvet pair of bodies was lines with (believe it or not) paper. It
> had no bones. You could probably substitute a hair canvas or a type of
> buckram that does not react to heat/ sweat. It was not made for the gown 
> she
> was buried in-- it was too big and had a different waistline.
>
> Now here is the story behind this. Eleonora died in December of 1562 and 
> was
> NOT embalmed. Getting from Pisa, where she died, to Florence, where she 
> was
> buried, took days since she was being moved in a "train" with wagons and
> horses, etc. I am sure that there was not a lot of ice around in those 
> days
> ("Poor Judd is dead" the song from "Oklahoma" tells of the down side of
> being kept unburied without ice...) At any rate, by the time she got home,
> people were probably moving at warp 9 to get her dressed in something
> appropriate. Cosimo her husband was very distraught, (he had just lost 2
> sons and a daughter within a very short time before Eleonora died, so 
> "crazy
> with grief" was probably a good way to describe it), but he wanted his 
> wife
> to be properly dressed-- jewels included-- for her appointment with her
> Maker.
>
> If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about 
> the
> velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from 
> TB
> on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death. 
> In
> the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended
> for the modern woman). The velvet bodice MIGHT have been something she 
> wore
> as a substitute when breathing became difficult (my hypothesis). In the
> severe stages of TB there is terrible weight loss. If you look at some of
> the pics by Bronzino you can see how she gained weight over the course of
> her many (11) pregnancies, and then lost a lot of weight at the end. She 
> was
> one sick lady. And putting the malaria on top of it, well, it is no 
> surprise
> that the stuff in her wardrobe did not fit. The velvet bodice was probably
> more of a grave wrapping to keep her upper body set while the people were
> trying to get her gown laced. If you notice the gown is not laced through
> every hole-- they were working fast probably. And who would think that 500
> years later what she wore in her grave would be the subject of such 
> intense
> scrutiny? (The grave robbers who took her jewels flipped the body over, so
> that is why the back of the dress and velvet bodice are in such good 
> shape.
> The body decays from the top down-- gravity and all that!)
>
> Eleonora's dress was probably lined in linen. Since linen is a natural
> fiber, it decomposes in the grave. It also protected the satin of the 
> dress
> from the same fate, but if the body had been left to decompose long enough
> everything probably would have gone.
>
> The latest book on Eleonora, "Moda di Firenze"
> http://www.artbooks.com/wc.dll?ab~searchitemno~0~45409  gives a lot of
> details on the EoT gown and the restoration of both pieces. The skirt was
> cut so it would be worn without a forepart.
>
> Janet Arnold did the preliminary work on the gown, but died prior to this
> new book being released. Her theory was the gown probably had an 
> embroidered
> smock and no sleeves. She also theorized that Eleonora probably wore a
> farthingale, because she was Spanish. The waistline of her gown was more
> rounded than the Elizabethan style of 1575, and had a different silhouette
> then the Eleonora gown from the Bronzino painting, which was 30 years
> earlier.
>
>
> Good luck with the gown!
> Best Regards-
> Monica
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Natalie
> Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:18 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am looking for some guidance on the Eleanor of Toledo gown. I have read
> over Janet Arnold's write up of this dress and the book describes not one,
> but two bodices based on remnants of the actual dress. The first bodice 
> was
> of velvet, and fastens at the front with hooks and eyes, and lined with
> linen, but no matching skirt was found, although there are stitch-holes in
> the waist.
>
> The second bodice is of satin, with two seams at the back. It may have 
> been
> lined, but the evidence is not clear, per Arnold.
>
> The book theorizes that the velvet bodice may have been a corset with 
> bents,
> or a "pair of bodies," set into the linen lining, to support an underskirt
> of velvet.
>
> So that's the back story. Based on that gown and the Elizabeth 1575 gown, 
> I
> have designed the following:
> http://www.fantasy-sewing.com/images/dressconcept.jpg
>
> My question is, if I wear a standard corset and farthingale, is there 
> really
> any need for the heavy under-bodice/skirt combo (kirtle?)? I am not sure 
> yet
> what I will make the overdress of, but it will probably be interlined
> brocade, with something lighter for the underskirt and an interchangeable
> forepart. I live in Michigan, and the faires here are held in the late 
> heat
> of summer, so I don't want to make it too heavy!
>
> Natalie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Mon, 08 May 2006 20:50:43 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
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Status: RO

I am glad to help! Eleonora is my pet subject!
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Natalie
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 8:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help


Monica,

Thanks for the insight! I knew she had had many children, and was a woman of
substance (like me!) but I didn't know how she had died. The velvet bodice
makes perfect sense as an alternative to the steel corset for an aging/dying
woman.

Thanks for the help!

Natalie


----- Original Message -----
From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 8:04 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help


> Hi Natalie--
> You can make the gown without an underbodice and kirtle over a  corset.
> How
> many people at  the Faire will notice? You are the one dealing with the
> heat!
>
> About The Eleonora dress:
>
> The red velvet pair of bodies was lines with (believe it or not) paper. It
> had no bones. You could probably substitute a hair canvas or a type of
> buckram that does not react to heat/ sweat. It was not made for the gown
> she
> was buried in-- it was too big and had a different waistline.
>
> Now here is the story behind this. Eleonora died in December of 1562 and
> was
> NOT embalmed. Getting from Pisa, where she died, to Florence, where she
> was
> buried, took days since she was being moved in a "train" with wagons and
> horses, etc. I am sure that there was not a lot of ice around in those
> days
> ("Poor Judd is dead" the song from "Oklahoma" tells of the down side of
> being kept unburied without ice...) At any rate, by the time she got home,
> people were probably moving at warp 9 to get her dressed in something
> appropriate. Cosimo her husband was very distraught, (he had just lost 2
> sons and a daughter within a very short time before Eleonora died, so
> "crazy
> with grief" was probably a good way to describe it), but he wanted his
> wife
> to be properly dressed-- jewels included-- for her appointment with her
> Maker.
>
> If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about
> the
> velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from
> TB
> on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death.
> In
> the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended
> for the modern woman). The velvet bodice MIGHT have been something she
> wore
> as a substitute when breathing became difficult (my hypothesis). In the
> severe stages of TB there is terrible weight loss. If you look at some of
> the pics by Bronzino you can see how she gained weight over the course of
> her many (11) pregnancies, and then lost a lot of weight at the end. She
> was
> one sick lady. And putting the malaria on top of it, well, it is no
> surprise
> that the stuff in her wardrobe did not fit. The velvet bodice was probably
> more of a grave wrapping to keep her upper body set while the people were
> trying to get her gown laced. If you notice the gown is not laced through
> every hole-- they were working fast probably. And who would think that 500
> years later what she wore in her grave would be the subject of such
> intense
> scrutiny? (The grave robbers who took her jewels flipped the body over, so
> that is why the back of the dress and velvet bodice are in such good
> shape.
> The body decays from the top down-- gravity and all that!)
>
> Eleonora's dress was probably lined in linen. Since linen is a natural
> fiber, it decomposes in the grave. It also protected the satin of the
> dress
> from the same fate, but if the body had been left to decompose long enough
> everything probably would have gone.
>
> The latest book on Eleonora, "Moda di Firenze"
> http://www.artbooks.com/wc.dll?ab~searchitemno~0~45409  gives a lot of
> details on the EoT gown and the restoration of both pieces. The skirt was
> cut so it would be worn without a forepart.
>
> Janet Arnold did the preliminary work on the gown, but died prior to this
> new book being released. Her theory was the gown probably had an
> embroidered
> smock and no sleeves. She also theorized that Eleonora probably wore a
> farthingale, because she was Spanish. The waistline of her gown was more
> rounded than the Elizabethan style of 1575, and had a different silhouette
> then the Eleonora gown from the Bronzino painting, which was 30 years
> earlier.
>
>
> Good luck with the gown!
> Best Regards-
> Monica
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Natalie
> Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:18 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am looking for some guidance on the Eleanor of Toledo gown. I have read
> over Janet Arnold's write up of this dress and the book describes not one,
> but two bodices based on remnants of the actual dress. The first bodice
> was
> of velvet, and fastens at the front with hooks and eyes, and lined with
> linen, but no matching skirt was found, although there are stitch-holes in
> the waist.
>
> The second bodice is of satin, with two seams at the back. It may have
> been
> lined, but the evidence is not clear, per Arnold.
>
> The book theorizes that the velvet bodice may have been a corset with
> bents,
> or a "pair of bodies," set into the linen lining, to support an underskirt
> of velvet.
>
> So that's the back story. Based on that gown and the Elizabeth 1575 gown,
> I
> have designed the following:
> http://www.fantasy-sewing.com/images/dressconcept.jpg
>
> My question is, if I wear a standard corset and farthingale, is there
> really
> any need for the heavy under-bodice/skirt combo (kirtle?)? I am not sure
> yet
> what I will make the overdress of, but it will probably be interlined
> brocade, with something lighter for the underskirt and an interchangeable
> forepart. I live in Michigan, and the faires here are held in the late
> heat
> of summer, so I don't want to make it too heavy!
>
> Natalie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
Date: Tue, 9 May 2006 13:01:58 +1200
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> The red velvet pair of bodies was lines with (believe it or not) paper. It
> had no bones. You could probably substitute a hair canvas or a type of
> buckram that does not react to heat/ sweat. It was not made for the gown
she
> was buried in-- it was too big and had a different waistline.

Is this some new information? I know in Patterns of Fashion there is mention
that the edges are oversewn and there is a scrap of linen at the bottom that
could be a lining or facing. PoF does mention that there were more satin
finds in 1986 which helped in determining skirt layout, so it wouldn't
surprise me if further examination revealed more.

> If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about
the
> velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from
TB
> on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death.
In
> the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended
> for the modern woman).

Again I'm curious about this. Is this mentioend in the new Moda di Firenze
book as well? Would this have been for medicinal reasons? Faure did
recommend splinting body parts with metal for certain diseases. A definite
link between Eleanora's wasting disease (as it would probably have been
called) and needing a metal corset would help in this area of research.

> Janet Arnold did the preliminary work on the gown, but died prior to this
> new book being released. Her theory was the gown probably had an
embroidered
> smock and no sleeves. She also theorized that Eleonora probably wore a
> farthingale, because she was Spanish. The waistline of her gown was more
> rounded than the Elizabethan style of 1575, and had a different silhouette
> then the Eleonora gown from the Bronzino painting, which was 30 years
> earlier.

And I'm curious yet again;) Sorry, but I do not have the Moda di Firenze
book nor do I have access to any of Arnold's articles in various costume
jourals. A sleeveless smock is an option several people having been thinking
about for various types of costume from the 16thC, and indeed I'm thinking
of making one myself.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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	<003a01c67304$2c6619b0$0301010a@michaela>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
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Status: RO

>> If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about
> the
>> velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from
> TB
>> on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death.
> In
>> the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended
>> for the modern woman).
> 
> Again I'm curious about this. Is this mentioend in the new Moda di Firenze
> book as well? Would this have been for medicinal reasons? Faure did
> recommend splinting body parts with metal for certain diseases. A definite
> link between Eleanora's wasting disease (as it would probably have been
> called) and needing a metal corset would help in this area of research.

I know not many like Norris, but I'm almost positive I've seen this in other places... I just can't find it at the moment. Anyway, in Tudor Costume and Fashion  in the part about corsets, he has a drawing, copied from an existing iron corset from about 1530. He writes a whole paragraph on it, but basically says that these were somewhat common in England from 1533 to the 1580's, being made from iron and covered with soft leather, silk, or other materials.they were hinged on one side and fastened by hook and/or bolts. He says they were first made by Italians and Catherine de' Medici brought some in her trousseau when she came to France in 1533.

So... take it with a grain of salt, it coming from Norris, but like I said, I am almost positive I've seen this elsewhere. I'm not sure if your question about the metal corset was about Eleanora specifically, or the corsets in general, but I hope that helps!

Natalie
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Date: Mon, 08 May 2006 22:08:32 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
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Hi Michaela--

Right now I'm writing a book on Cosimo and Eleonora. (P579 and counting... )
so I have tons of information  from really obscure sources.  The "Moda" book
has a LOT of new info. Some of the other info comes from my correspondance
back in the 1990s with Janet Arnold about Eleonora's grave clothes. The
possible smock she spoke of was not sleeveless, but having embroidered
sleeves, the burial gown (which was called a "petticoat", actually) did not
have the split sleeves that you see in the 1545 Bronzino portrait..
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of michaela
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 9:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help


> The red velvet pair of bodies was lines with (believe it or not) paper. It
> had no bones. You could probably substitute a hair canvas or a type of
> buckram that does not react to heat/ sweat. It was not made for the gown
she
> was buried in-- it was too big and had a different waistline.

Is this some new information? I know in Patterns of Fashion there is mention
that the edges are oversewn and there is a scrap of linen at the bottom that
could be a lining or facing. PoF does mention that there were more satin
finds in 1986 which helped in determining skirt layout, so it wouldn't
surprise me if further examination revealed more.

> If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about
the
> velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from
TB
> on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death.
In
> the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended
> for the modern woman).

Again I'm curious about this. Is this mentioend in the new Moda di Firenze
book as well? Would this have been for medicinal reasons? Faure did
recommend splinting body parts with metal for certain diseases. A definite
link between Eleanora's wasting disease (as it would probably have been
called) and needing a metal corset would help in this area of research.

> Janet Arnold did the preliminary work on the gown, but died prior to this
> new book being released. Her theory was the gown probably had an
embroidered
> smock and no sleeves. She also theorized that Eleonora probably wore a
> farthingale, because she was Spanish. The waistline of her gown was more
> rounded than the Elizabethan style of 1575, and had a different silhouette
> then the Eleonora gown from the Bronzino painting, which was 30 years
> earlier.

And I'm curious yet again;) Sorry, but I do not have the Moda di Firenze
book nor do I have access to any of Arnold's articles in various costume
jourals. A sleeveless smock is an option several people having been thinking
about for various types of costume from the 16thC, and indeed I'm thinking
of making one myself.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Date: Mon, 08 May 2006 22:14:44 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
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Hi Natalie--
There are references that I have found that say Eleonora's steel corsets
were made by Master Lorenzo (I think that was his name...) who was Cosimo's
cuirassier (armor maker). She wanted these to give her support so she could
make public appearances with Cosimo.

My opinion about Norris: While he was a wonderful source for his time, much
has been written since then. If you need to look at his work, follow it up
with work from more modern scholars. It takes some work to do it, but it is
out there.
Monica





-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Natalie
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 9:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help


>> If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about
> the
>> velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from
> TB
>> on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death.
> In
>> the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended
>> for the modern woman).
>
> Again I'm curious about this. Is this mentioend in the new Moda di Firenze
> book as well? Would this have been for medicinal reasons? Faure did
> recommend splinting body parts with metal for certain diseases. A definite
> link between Eleanora's wasting disease (as it would probably have been
> called) and needing a metal corset would help in this area of research.

I know not many like Norris, but I'm almost positive I've seen this in other
places... I just can't find it at the moment. Anyway, in Tudor Costume and
Fashion  in the part about corsets, he has a drawing, copied from an
existing iron corset from about 1530. He writes a whole paragraph on it, but
basically says that these were somewhat common in England from 1533 to the
1580's, being made from iron and covered with soft leather, silk, or other
materials.they were hinged on one side and fastened by hook and/or bolts. He
says they were first made by Italians and Catherine de' Medici brought some
in her trousseau when she came to France in 1533.

So... take it with a grain of salt, it coming from Norris, but like I said,
I am almost positive I've seen this elsewhere. I'm not sure if your question
about the metal corset was about Eleanora specifically, or the corsets in
general, but I hope that helps!

Natalie
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Date: Mon, 08 May 2006 22:14:46 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
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Thanks! Glad to help!
Monica
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Western
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 9:05 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help


Well, I just want to thank you for that very nice read.  I have the new
book, got it for Christmas...now classes are done for the semester I can sit
and read.  Thank you for the nudge.

Elizabeth


On 5/8/06 8:04 PM, "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:

> Hi Natalie--
> You can make the gown without an underbodice and kirtle over a  corset.
How
> many people at  the Faire will notice? You are the one dealing with the
> heat!
>
> About The Eleonora dress:
>
> The red velvet pair of bodies was lines with (believe it or not) paper. It
> had no bones. You could probably substitute a hair canvas or a type of
> buckram that does not react to heat/ sweat. It was not made for the gown
she
> was buried in-- it was too big and had a different waistline.
>
> Now here is the story behind this. Eleonora died in December of 1562 and
was
> NOT embalmed. Getting from Pisa, where she died, to Florence, where she
was
> buried, took days since she was being moved in a "train" with wagons and
> horses, etc. I am sure that there was not a lot of ice around in those
days
> ("Poor Judd is dead" the song from "Oklahoma" tells of the down side of
> being kept unburied without ice...) At any rate, by the time she got home,
> people were probably moving at warp 9 to get her dressed in something
> appropriate. Cosimo her husband was very distraught, (he had just lost 2
> sons and a daughter within a very short time before Eleonora died, so
"crazy
> with grief" was probably a good way to describe it), but he wanted his
wife
> to be properly dressed-- jewels included-- for her appointment with her
> Maker.
>
> If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about
the
> velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from
TB
> on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death.
In
> the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended
> for the modern woman). The velvet bodice MIGHT have been something she
wore
> as a substitute when breathing became difficult (my hypothesis). In the
> severe stages of TB there is terrible weight loss. If you look at some of
> the pics by Bronzino you can see how she gained weight over the course of
> her many (11) pregnancies, and then lost a lot of weight at the end. She
was
> one sick lady. And putting the malaria on top of it, well, it is no
surprise
> that the stuff in her wardrobe did not fit. The velvet bodice was probably
> more of a grave wrapping to keep her upper body set while the people were
> trying to get her gown laced. If you notice the gown is not laced through
> every hole-- they were working fast probably. And who would think that 500
> years later what she wore in her grave would be the subject of such
intense
> scrutiny? (The grave robbers who took her jewels flipped the body over, so
> that is why the back of the dress and velvet bodice are in such good
shape.
> The body decays from the top down-- gravity and all that!)
>
> Eleonora's dress was probably lined in linen. Since linen is a natural
> fiber, it decomposes in the grave. It also protected the satin of the
dress
> from the same fate, but if the body had been left to decompose long enough
> everything probably would have gone.
>
> The latest book on Eleonora, "Moda di Firenze"
> http://www.artbooks.com/wc.dll?ab~searchitemno~0~45409  gives a lot of
> details on the EoT gown and the restoration of both pieces. The skirt was
> cut so it would be worn without a forepart.
>
> Janet Arnold did the preliminary work on the gown, but died prior to this
> new book being released. Her theory was the gown probably had an
embroidered
> smock and no sleeves. She also theorized that Eleonora probably wore a
> farthingale, because she was Spanish. The waistline of her gown was more
> rounded than the Elizabethan style of 1575, and had a different silhouette
> then the Eleonora gown from the Bronzino painting, which was 30 years
> earlier.
>
>
> Good luck with the gown!
> Best Regards-
> Monica
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Natalie
> Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:18 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am looking for some guidance on the Eleanor of Toledo gown. I have read
> over Janet Arnold's write up of this dress and the book describes not one,
> but two bodices based on remnants of the actual dress. The first bodice
was
> of velvet, and fastens at the front with hooks and eyes, and lined with
> linen, but no matching skirt was found, although there are stitch-holes in
> the waist.
>
> The second bodice is of satin, with two seams at the back. It may have
been
> lined, but the evidence is not clear, per Arnold.
>
> The book theorizes that the velvet bodice may have been a corset with
bents,
> or a "pair of bodies," set into the linen lining, to support an underskirt
> of velvet.
>
> So that's the back story. Based on that gown and the Elizabeth 1575 gown,
I
> have designed the following:
> http://www.fantasy-sewing.com/images/dressconcept.jpg
>
> My question is, if I wear a standard corset and farthingale, is there
really
> any need for the heavy under-bodice/skirt combo (kirtle?)? I am not sure
yet
> what I will make the overdress of, but it will probably be interlined
> brocade, with something lighter for the underskirt and an interchangeable
> forepart. I live in Michigan, and the faires here are held in the late
heat
> of summer, so I don't want to make it too heavy!
>
> Natalie
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
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Quoting monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>:

> Hi Michaela--
>
> Right now I'm writing a book on Cosimo and Eleonora. (P579 and counting... )

drooling.  Any vague ideas of publication timeframe?  (did I couch that
in vague enough terms?)  :-)

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Dress Diary
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I have started a diary/instructions at 
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/renaissance3.htm for an Elizabethan 
low-necked gown and wondered if anyone could have a look and see if it 
makes sense? I have two students making their first bodice on the 
weekend and hope to send them to this page. They have not sewn before 
but are feeling quite brave. I will be supervising them at our regular 
Saturday morning sewing bee.
Its not finished - more will be going up as I progress through the 
sewing today and tomorrow. And I apologise that the sewing methods are 
not historically accurate.
Many thanks, Aylwen Garden
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
Date: Mon, 8 May 2006 21:19:23 -0700
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Book Tease!  So when is this coming out? Who is publishing it?  Where can we
pre-order?  What are you doing wasting perfectly good reading/writing time
on the likes of us (grin)!

Honestly!  I hear about books like this and it makes me want to lock people
who can write them into the house-elf filled regions of Hogwarts until they
come through with the goods.

Regina (who wants a House Elf! I would be so good to one.  No clothes!  Nice
clean tea towels, or even a brand new pillow case!  Nice comfy beds with
bright colored blankets and ...)
>
> Hi Michaela--
>
> Right now I'm writing a book on Cosimo and Eleonora. (P579 and
> counting... )
> so I have tons of information  from really obscure sources.
>


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Date: Mon, 08 May 2006 21:04:58 -0400
From: Elizabeth Western <contessaisabel@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
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Well, I just want to thank you for that very nice read.  I have the new
book, got it for Christmas...now classes are done for the semester I can sit
and read.  Thank you for the nudge.

Elizabeth


On 5/8/06 8:04 PM, "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:

> Hi Natalie--
> You can make the gown without an underbodice and kirtle over a  corset. How
> many people at  the Faire will notice? You are the one dealing with the
> heat!
> 
> About The Eleonora dress:
> 
> The red velvet pair of bodies was lines with (believe it or not) paper. It
> had no bones. You could probably substitute a hair canvas or a type of
> buckram that does not react to heat/ sweat. It was not made for the gown she
> was buried in-- it was too big and had a different waistline.
> 
> Now here is the story behind this. Eleonora died in December of 1562 and was
> NOT embalmed. Getting from Pisa, where she died, to Florence, where she was
> buried, took days since she was being moved in a "train" with wagons and
> horses, etc. I am sure that there was not a lot of ice around in those days
> ("Poor Judd is dead" the song from "Oklahoma" tells of the down side of
> being kept unburied without ice...) At any rate, by the time she got home,
> people were probably moving at warp 9 to get her dressed in something
> appropriate. Cosimo her husband was very distraught, (he had just lost 2
> sons and a daughter within a very short time before Eleonora died, so "crazy
> with grief" was probably a good way to describe it), but he wanted his wife
> to be properly dressed-- jewels included-- for her appointment with her
> Maker.
> 
> If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about the
> velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from TB
> on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death. In
> the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended
> for the modern woman). The velvet bodice MIGHT have been something she wore
> as a substitute when breathing became difficult (my hypothesis). In the
> severe stages of TB there is terrible weight loss. If you look at some of
> the pics by Bronzino you can see how she gained weight over the course of
> her many (11) pregnancies, and then lost a lot of weight at the end. She was
> one sick lady. And putting the malaria on top of it, well, it is no surprise
> that the stuff in her wardrobe did not fit. The velvet bodice was probably
> more of a grave wrapping to keep her upper body set while the people were
> trying to get her gown laced. If you notice the gown is not laced through
> every hole-- they were working fast probably. And who would think that 500
> years later what she wore in her grave would be the subject of such intense
> scrutiny? (The grave robbers who took her jewels flipped the body over, so
> that is why the back of the dress and velvet bodice are in such good shape.
> The body decays from the top down-- gravity and all that!)
> 
> Eleonora's dress was probably lined in linen. Since linen is a natural
> fiber, it decomposes in the grave. It also protected the satin of the dress
> from the same fate, but if the body had been left to decompose long enough
> everything probably would have gone.
> 
> The latest book on Eleonora, "Moda di Firenze"
> http://www.artbooks.com/wc.dll?ab~searchitemno~0~45409  gives a lot of
> details on the EoT gown and the restoration of both pieces. The skirt was
> cut so it would be worn without a forepart.
> 
> Janet Arnold did the preliminary work on the gown, but died prior to this
> new book being released. Her theory was the gown probably had an embroidered
> smock and no sleeves. She also theorized that Eleonora probably wore a
> farthingale, because she was Spanish. The waistline of her gown was more
> rounded than the Elizabethan style of 1575, and had a different silhouette
> then the Eleonora gown from the Bronzino painting, which was 30 years
> earlier.
> 
> 
> Good luck with the gown!
> Best Regards-
> Monica
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Natalie
> Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:18 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I am looking for some guidance on the Eleanor of Toledo gown. I have read
> over Janet Arnold's write up of this dress and the book describes not one,
> but two bodices based on remnants of the actual dress. The first bodice was
> of velvet, and fastens at the front with hooks and eyes, and lined with
> linen, but no matching skirt was found, although there are stitch-holes in
> the waist.
> 
> The second bodice is of satin, with two seams at the back. It may have been
> lined, but the evidence is not clear, per Arnold.
> 
> The book theorizes that the velvet bodice may have been a corset with bents,
> or a "pair of bodies," set into the linen lining, to support an underskirt
> of velvet.
> 
> So that's the back story. Based on that gown and the Elizabeth 1575 gown, I
> have designed the following:
> http://www.fantasy-sewing.com/images/dressconcept.jpg
> 
> My question is, if I wear a standard corset and farthingale, is there really
> any need for the heavy under-bodice/skirt combo (kirtle?)? I am not sure yet
> what I will make the overdress of, but it will probably be interlined
> brocade, with something lighter for the underskirt and an interchangeable
> forepart. I live in Michigan, and the faires here are held in the late heat
> of summer, so I don't want to make it too heavy!
> 
> Natalie
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Mystery - Jericho
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These were shown in the UK a few months ago. (Robert Lindsay, the leading actor, comes from a town a few miles from my home city.) I liked the '50s setting too (I was born in 1951), though as a detective drama I prefer "Foyle's War", set in the 1940s.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> lynndownward@gmail.com 09/05/2006 00:32 >>>
Hi all, and sorry for the cross-post,

For those of us who believe that historic clothing does actually bleed
into the 20th Century, did anyone watch the two-part Mystery over the
past week? It's from the UK and is called "Jericho" from, I believe,
books of the same name. (I missed the the credits while getting tea in
preparation of watching the program. The mystery took place in 1950s
London, and the clothes were FABulous, from the maid's outfit to the
New Look dresses to the casual clothes worn by the Jamican men. The
police look rumpled and wear overcoats everywhere. The makeup and hair
were really well done; my daughter didn't have to hear either mom or
dad complain about anything.

I'm sorry I didn't mention it last week after the first half of the
first mystery, but I didn't want to tease anyone who hadn't seen the
first part. Now that I know there will be more mysteries in this
series, I'd like to recommend them to you.

Lynn
Born in 1952, so I can remember some of the clothing in the program

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From: " Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: New MCTBook
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I'll second that question!  I just got mine and even with company I had to look through it.  Now, I can't wait for my company to go away so I can read it.  

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- wandap@hevanet.com wrote:

From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc:
Subject: [h-cost] Re: New MCTBook
Date: Sat, 6 May 2006 17:00:32 -0700

Got my MCT Book last week.  My only Question:

Robin!  Are we going to have to wait a WHOLE YEAR for another?  Are they
taking pre-orders yet?

Regina Romsey/Wanda in Portland


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To: shelagh.lewins@ntlworld.com, SCA-Card-Weaving@yahoogroups.com,
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: [MR] [SCA-Card-Weaving] Oseberg textiles book now
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That's  wonderful news! Do you know whether it *will* be offered on Oxbow or 
anywhere  like that?
 
That I do not know.  The book only arrived in the museum bookstore  this 
week.  Keep you fingers crossed that someone like Oxbow will  distribute it.  I 
wouldn't, however, hold my breath at this stage.



And might there be anybody on this list who would be willing to  translate 
some sections? Ideally consulting with the Museum to gain their  permission to 
release the translations?

 
I am planning on writing to both the authors AND the publisher as soon as I  
have the book in-hand to ask about the possibility of an English  translation. 
 That is almost unbelievable that, after waiting 112 years  since the 
textiles were first discovered, they would so severely limit the  number of people 
who will be able to easily access this information.  
 
Nancy  

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 
Ingvild  Josefsdatter, OL
Kingdom of Atlantia

"But if by 'Liberal' they mean  someone who looks ahead and not behind, 
someone who welcomes new ideas without  rigid reactions, someone who cares about 
the welfare of the people -- their  health, their housing, their schools, their 
jobs, their civil rights, and their  civil liberties -- someone who believes 
we can break through the stalemate and  suspicions that grip us in our policies 
abroad, if that is what they mean by  'Liberal', then I'm proud to say I'm a 
'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept  1960

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Without going and checking for sure, as I recall, there were no boned
corsets in Eleanora's inventory.  No you don't need the unboned bodice
if you wear the corset et all.



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Subject: [h-cost] 2 costume movies
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I just saw 2 films on DVD that were big costume films, both of which we've  
discussed here. Both have great costumes but one film is pretty good, and one 
is  just...well...dumb.
 
The good one is "The Affair of the Necklace". A yummy yarn with some very  
good portrayals. I love Marie Antoinette...the way she was portrayed was very  
believable. And Hillary Swank was also fine. Naturally, Jonathan Price puts in 
a  good performance.
I liked the clothes. But Milena Canonero always comes up with interesting  
looks. From "A Clockwork Orange" to "Dick Tracy" to "Titus" to this....you have  
to admit she gives you something interesting to look at....that enhances the  
film itself. I just saw again something "modern" she did....what was it? Oh  
yeah..."The Hunger". And she's responsible for "Marie Antoinette" too. [I 
wonder  if she's sick of that period?]
Here's her filmography:
 
_http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0134382/_ (http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0134382/) 
 
Quite a list...full of memorable looks.
 
And I noticed yardages. Remember our discussion of skimpy yardages? They  
work in "The Affair...." They don't seem skimpy because she's going for delicacy  
and the light fabrics, trimmings and modest underpinnings are balanced  
perfectly by less than sweeping skirts. An excellent study in restraint with  
elegance. Makes the gaudy, clunky necklace stand out even more.
 
I must complain though about the anorexic court of Louis XVI. Everybody,  and 
I mean everybody, is skinny as hell! And even though the story is quite  
good, the telling of it is lacking. Like so many films these days, the script  
needs another rewrite! If it's her story, flashbacked from her trial, why is it  
told by someone else? Why is the narrator the guy who figures out the plot? 
The  detective so to speak. And if he's narrating, why isn't he telling HIS  
story...how he figured out everything and caught the culprits? That sounds like  
a good story. It's completely left out! And that music! It's just poorly  
thought out, IMHO....and you all know I'm a big critic.
 
Which brings me to "Stage Beauty". Beautiful costumes! I loved the look.  But 
what a dumb movie. That's the only word I can think of to describe it: DUMB.  
All that Stanislovsky Method in the 1660s? I don't think so...... They must  
think we're dumb! But turn the sound down, and just gaze at the beautiful  
clothes and art direction! Wonderful!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
Date: Mon, 8 May 2006 23:23:26 -0600
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Me! Me! I want one, too.  (book AND a house elf)  Either one, I'd knit them
*brand new* sockies. <g>
--sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 10:19 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help


> Book Tease!  So when is this coming out? Who is publishing it?  Where can
we
> pre-order?  What are you doing wasting perfectly good reading/writing time
> on the likes of us (grin)!
>
> Honestly!  I hear about books like this and it makes me want to lock
people
> who can write them into the house-elf filled regions of Hogwarts until
they
> come through with the goods.
>
> Regina (who wants a House Elf! I would be so good to one.  No clothes!
Nice
> clean tea towels, or even a brand new pillow case!  Nice comfy beds with
> bright colored blankets and ...)
> >
> > Hi Michaela--
> >
> > Right now I'm writing a book on Cosimo and Eleonora. (P579 and
> > counting... )
> > so I have tons of information  from really obscure sources.
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Natalie" <natalieae@voyager.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
Date: Tue, 9 May 2006 08:14:58 -0400
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Oh, I definitely will, and have! That's just the one I had on hand at the moment.

Natalie
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: monica spence 
  To: Historical Costume 
  Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 10:14 PM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help


  Hi Natalie--
  There are references that I have found that say Eleonora's steel corsets
  were made by Master Lorenzo (I think that was his name...) who was Cosimo's
  cuirassier (armor maker). She wanted these to give her support so she could
  make public appearances with Cosimo.

  My opinion about Norris: While he was a wonderful source for his time, much
  has been written since then. If you need to look at his work, follow it up
  with work from more modern scholars. It takes some work to do it, but it is
  out there.
  Monica





  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
  Behalf Of Natalie
  Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 9:57 PM
  To: Historical Costume
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help


  >> If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about
  > the
  >> velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from
  > TB
  >> on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death.
  > In
  >> the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended
  >> for the modern woman).
  >
  > Again I'm curious about this. Is this mentioend in the new Moda di Firenze
  > book as well? Would this have been for medicinal reasons? Faure did
  > recommend splinting body parts with metal for certain diseases. A definite
  > link between Eleanora's wasting disease (as it would probably have been
  > called) and needing a metal corset would help in this area of research.

  I know not many like Norris, but I'm almost positive I've seen this in other
  places... I just can't find it at the moment. Anyway, in Tudor Costume and
  Fashion  in the part about corsets, he has a drawing, copied from an
  existing iron corset from about 1530. He writes a whole paragraph on it, but
  basically says that these were somewhat common in England from 1533 to the
  1580's, being made from iron and covered with soft leather, silk, or other
  materials.they were hinged on one side and fastened by hook and/or bolts. He
  says they were first made by Italians and Catherine de' Medici brought some
  in her trousseau when she came to France in 1533.

  So... take it with a grain of salt, it coming from Norris, but like I said,
  I am almost positive I've seen this elsewhere. I'm not sure if your question
  about the metal corset was about Eleanora specifically, or the corsets in
  general, but I hope that helps!

  Natalie
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Subject: [h-cost] Silk Velvet
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Whoo, I nearly missed this one....

I have already offered at another list, where it came up, to have a look at 
that particular velvet from Distinctive Fabrics under the microscope, cause 
that's what I do with all my so called "silk velvets". The problem with burn 
testing is that rayon is sometimes hard to differentiate by smell and 
behaviour, but a bleach test will normally tell you straight away if it's 
rayon or silk. Under the microscope, you will see the striations of the silk 
(irregular, with small bits of sericin on the fibres) and you can compare 
them to rayon striations (which are very regular, seeing that it's pressed 
through a nozzle when the fibre is created, and no sericin of course). There 
is also a difference in thickness of an individal rayon fibre and a silk 
filament.

The only place so far that I have been able to find easily obtainable 100% 
silk velvet is in Germany, a place called "Gewand und Tand" (very loosely 
translated: Garb and stuff). They sell white silk velvet, 140cm wide for 
~€59 (~US$70)/m, and I've analysed the fibre content under the microscope, 
it's the real deal! The one from the Silk trading company is indeed very 
heavy, but only the pile is silk, since they need their fabrics for 
upholstery and make the backing out of tough man-made fibres for that 
purpose.

Since I don't do later periods (as in 17th century upwards) I can't speak 
for those velvets, but some early velvets (14th, 15th century) in the V&A in 
London show a very low pile and beautiful sheen and that's even in a sample 
that has three different heights of cut and uncut velvet. The silk velvet 
from Germany has a low pile, but a wonderful sheen, which is nothing like 
the rayon pile. I got several samples to compare and I took it to the V&A as 
well and it really looks the part... the only difference is that the 
original textiles have a pattern woven in different colours.... but I'm 
working on at least getting a two height cut pattern working even if the 
fabric will be one colour only. It's not too heavy,  but with a nice lining, 
it drapes wonderfully.

Hope this helps, if anyone is interested in the German source, I can post 
the link.

Cheers,

Caithlinn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 costume movies
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At 01:26 09/05/2006, you wrote:
>I just saw 2 films on DVD that were big costume films, both of which we've
>discussed here. Both have great costumes but one film is pretty good, and one
>is  just...well...dumb.
>
>The good one is "The Affair of the Necklace". A yummy yarn with some very
>good portrayals. I love Marie Antoinette...the way she was portrayed 
>was very
>believable. And Hillary Swank was also fine. Naturally, Jonathan 
>Price puts in
>a  good performance.
>I liked the clothes. But Milena Canonero always comes up with interesting
>looks. From "A Clockwork Orange" to "Dick Tracy" to "Titus" to 
>this....you have
>to admit she gives you something interesting to look at....that enhances the
>film itself. I just saw again something "modern" she did....what was it? Oh
>yeah..."The Hunger". And she's responsible for "Marie Antoinette" too. [I
>wonder  if she's sick of that period?]
>Here's her filmography:
>
>_http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0134382/_ (http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0134382/)
>
>Quite a list...full of memorable looks.
>
>And I noticed yardages. Remember our discussion of skimpy yardages? They
>work in "The Affair...." They don't seem skimpy because she's going 
>for delicacy
>and the light fabrics, trimmings and modest underpinnings are balanced
>perfectly by less than sweeping skirts. An excellent study in restraint with
>elegance. Makes the gaudy, clunky necklace stand out even more.
>
>I must complain though about the anorexic court of Louis XVI. Everybody,  and
>I mean everybody, is skinny as hell! And even though the story is quite
>good, the telling of it is lacking. Like so many films these days, 
>the script
>needs another rewrite! If it's her story, flashbacked from her 
>trial, why is it
>told by someone else? Why is the narrator the guy who figures out the plot?
>The  detective so to speak. And if he's narrating, why isn't he telling HIS
>story...how he figured out everything and caught the culprits? That 
>sounds like
>a good story. It's completely left out! And that music! It's just poorly
>thought out, IMHO....and you all know I'm a big critic.

I hated "The Affair". thought the frocks were dire, and the acting 
appalling! But then it takes all sorts!!

>
>Which brings me to "Stage Beauty". Beautiful costumes! I loved the look.  But
>what a dumb movie. That's the only word I can think of to describe it: DUMB.
>All that Stanislovsky Method in the 1660s? I don't think so...... They must
>think we're dumb! But turn the sound down, and just gaze at the beautiful
>clothes and art direction! Wonderful!


"Stage Beauty" however was wonderful, although I had my doubts about 
some of the frocks. The theatre in England was being revived after 
the Commonwealth had virtually caused all public entertainment to be 
banned, and "acting" was able to change. There really was a change of 
style in the 1660's, led by the fact that girls/women were allowed to 
act on stage officially for the first time. I saw a brilliantly 
performed play starring Michael Gambon on this very subject, and 
watched him do "Elizabethan" style acting, full of gestures and body 
positions that would be recognisable to any theatre goer of the time. 
He then showed what was going to happen, and although it took many 
more years till truly natural acting became fashionable (mid to late 
Victorian - an actor/manager called Tom something - see "Trelawney of 
the Wells", by Pinero), it was natural by comparison.

I also saw a lecture/demonstration by a member of the "Shakespeare 
Globe" team on the same subject, and he said pretty much what I had 
noted from the play. So your comment "All that Stanislavsky Method in 
the 1660s? I don't think so......", while accurate in some ways,
doesn't take into account the facts of theatre in England.

Sorry, stepping down of soap box now.

Suzi 


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Date: Tue, 9 May 2006 07:44:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: New MCTBook
In-Reply-To: <20060508084404.17A330F@resin04.mta.everyone.net>
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Just back from Kalamazoo. Lots and lots of costume sessions but I'm too
tired and overburdened to report in detail, so I hope someone else on this
list will give the blow-by-blow.

Wanda wrote:

> Got my MCT Book last week.  My only Question:
> 
> Robin!  Are we going to have to wait a WHOLE YEAR for another?  Are they
> taking pre-orders yet?

Lalah added:

> I'll second that question!  I just got mine and even with company I
> had to look through it.  Now, I can't wait for my company to go away
> so I can read it.

Music to my ears!

Yes, it's another year. The journal is an annual, published every April.
For those who haven't seen them, the contents of vols. 1 and 2 are here:

http://www.boydell.co.uk/43831236.HTM
http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832038.HTM

I should also note that my publisher told me this week that Vol. 1 is
nearly sold out; we're talking about the possibility of a reprint, which I
sincerely hope will happen, but I can't make promises.

In the newly released vol. 2, members of this list may be particularly
interested in the pieces on early Irish dress, Italian Renaissance "flea
furs," and Elizabethan women's embroidered jackets. But there are others
that will be useful to people working in various specialties.

I'm working on editing vol. 3 (2007) now (at breakneck pace, deadline
approaching). At this moment, it looks like it will cover these topics:
 -- Anglo-Saxon use of textile home furnishings
 -- Anglo-Saxon vestments
 -- Opus Anglicanum embroidery in vestments
 -- Upper-class color preferences in Flemish woolens, 14th-16th c.
 -- Wool finishing techniques, 14th-16th c.
 -- Costume references in a 15th c. Spanish "Life of Mary"
 -- Fingerloop braiding
 -- Surviving textile bookmarkers
 -- Children's clothing references in the Lisle letters, 1530s England

--Robin

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From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Velvet
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At 05:49 AM 5/9/2006, you wrote:
>Whoo, I nearly missed this one....
>
>I have already offered at another list, where it 
>came up, to have a look at that particular 
>velvet from Distinctive Fabrics under the 
>microscope, cause that's what I do with all my 
>so called "silk velvets". The problem with burn 
>testing is that rayon is sometimes hard to 
>differentiate by smell and behaviour, but a 
>bleach test will normally tell you straight away 
>if it's rayon or silk. Under the microscope, you 
>will see the striations of the silk (irregular, 
>with small bits of sericin on the fibres) and 
>you can compare them to rayon striations (which 
>are very regular, seeing that it's pressed 
>through a nozzle when the fibre is created, and 
>no sericin of course). There is also a 
>difference in thickness of an individal rayon fibre and a silk filament.
>
>The only place so far that I have been able to 
>find easily obtainable 100% silk velvet is in 
>Germany, a place called "Gewand und Tand" (very 
>loosely translated: Garb and stuff). They sell 
>white silk velvet, 140cm wide for ~€59 
>(~US$70)/m, and I've analysed the fibre content 
>under the microscope, it's the real deal! The 
>one from the Silk trading company is indeed very 
>heavy, but only the pile is silk, since they 
>need their fabrics for upholstery and make the 
>backing out of tough man-made fibres for that purpose.
>
>Since I don't do later periods (as in 17th 
>century upwards) I can't speak for those 
>velvets, but some early velvets (14th, 15th 
>century) in the V&A in London show a very low 
>pile and beautiful sheen and that's even in a 
>sample that has three different heights of cut 
>and uncut velvet. The silk velvet from Germany 
>has a low pile, but a wonderful sheen, which is 
>nothing like the rayon pile. I got several 
>samples to compare and I took it to the V&A as 
>well and it really looks the part... the only 
>difference is that the original textiles have a 
>pattern woven in different colours.... but I'm 
>working on at least getting a two height cut 
>pattern working even if the fabric will be one 
>colour only. It's not too heavy,  but with a 
>nice lining, it drapes wonderfully.
>
>Hope this helps, if anyone is interested in the 
>German source, I can post the link.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Caithlinn

I just received a sample of the black 'silk 
velvet' from Distinctive Fabrics.  I will try the 
bleach test on it and report back.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  Oseberg textiles book now available
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I received a reply today from Jorun Grønli Kruse (Kulturhistorisk museum, 
Universitetet i Oslo). Payment must be by electronic funds transfer to 
their bank's Swift account. Payment must be in Norway Kroners. When their 
bank approves payment, they will send the book.

International EFT's are very expensive from my bank here. Any suggestions 
as to less expensive alternate's?

Beth

>Date: Mon, 8 May 2006 18:03:59 EDT
>From: SNSpies@aol.com
>
>That's  wonderful news! Do you know whether it *will* be offered on Oxbow or
>anywhere  like that?
>
>That I do not know.  The book only arrived in the museum bookstore  this
>week.  Keep you fingers crossed that someone like Oxbow will  distribute 
>it.  I
>wouldn't, however, hold my breath at this stage.
>
>And might there be anybody on this list who would be willing to  translate
>some sections? Ideally consulting with the Museum to gain 
>their  permission to
>release the translations?
>
>I am planning on writing to both the authors AND the publisher as soon as I
>have the book in-hand to ask about the possibility of an 
>English  translation.
>  That is almost unbelievable that, after waiting 112 years  since the
>textiles were first discovered, they would so severely limit the  number 
>of people
>who will be able to easily access this information.
>
>Nancy
>
>Nancy  Spies


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Quoting monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>:

> Hi Susan--
> I'm  following a historical timeline...I'm up to 1553. Two kids and
> counting. :-)
>
> I'd like to get it done before I have to go to Pittsburgh in late June for
> my residency for my MA in Writing. I don't know if I am being optimistic or
> what.At any rate I hope to have it done by late summer. However I have been
> asked by an agent to allow her to read it when it is done. Here's hoping.
> Thank you so much for the interest. I sometimes feel like no one but me
> would care if it gets done.

Silly woman!  I know that feeling though.  I"m working on a dissertation
and I'd *really* like to have it done by late June ...  (has to be
defended and submitted by the end of July or I have to pay tuition for
Fall ...)

Good luck!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 17:06:44 +0200
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Oseberg textiles book now available
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On Tue, 09 May 2006 08:36:18 -0500, Beth and Bob Matney  
<bmatney@alltel.net> wrote:

> International EFT's are very expensive from my bank here. Any  
> suggestions as to less expensive alternate's?

I can check around a little the next days and see if I find a bookshop  
that sells the book through the internet. That way you should be able to  
pay by Visa. Or you might ask them if you can pay through Paypal`?

Gunvor


-- 
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
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Actually _- I'd like the house elf too. It would give me more time.

Thanks for the support. When it gets published (even if I have to do it
myself!), I PROMISE I'll put it out on the list.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Wanda Pease
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 12:19 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help


Book Tease!  So when is this coming out? Who is publishing it?  Where can we
pre-order?  What are you doing wasting perfectly good reading/writing time
on the likes of us (grin)!

Honestly!  I hear about books like this and it makes me want to lock people
who can write them into the house-elf filled regions of Hogwarts until they
come through with the goods.

Regina (who wants a House Elf! I would be so good to one.  No clothes!  Nice
clean tea towels, or even a brand new pillow case!  Nice comfy beds with
bright colored blankets and ...)
>
> Hi Michaela--
>
> Right now I'm writing a book on Cosimo and Eleonora. (P579 and
> counting... )
> so I have tons of information  from really obscure sources.
>


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From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Period-correct yarn colors for US Civil War
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Hello, all.

A friend is knitting a capelet for someone who works in the Gettysburg 
battlefield area, and wants to make certain her yarn is a period-correct 
color.

What colors would have been appropriate?
Thanks,
Michelle
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In a message dated 5/9/2006 8:53:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

I hated  "The Affair". thought the frocks were dire, and the acting 
appalling! But  then it takes all sorts!!

>



**********************
 
LOL....yes it does take all sorts! You thought the costumes "dire" ?????  
C'mon! Why? I'm interested in why you hate them.
Acting -wise, there was no one really stellar, but to keep that confusion  of 
a script going took some talent.
 
*******************
 
So your comment "All that Stanislavsky Method in 
the 1660s? I don't  think so......", while accurate in some ways,
doesn't take into account the  facts of theatre in England.
***************************
 
Yes I'm sure acting changed when women were allowed on stage, but not the  
stupid way it appears in the film. All of Restoration Comedy proves that! If it  
had changed like in the film, no one would have NEEDED Stanislovisky in the 
19th  century! And all that lame "sexual politics" stuff. Lines like "What do 
men DO  when they have sex?" Pu-leez! Just DUMB! ....but  beautiful! 
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Subject: [h-cost] more gown help
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With my dress design, there will be puffs and slashes in the sleeves, shoulder rolls and bodice front and back. However, in cosideration of how the layers go onto the body: Chemise, corset and farthingale, then bodice/sleeves/skirts... where do the puffs come from in the bodice? Are they false puffs? If they are false, it would be interesting to make them interchangeable so I can change the colors/look of the dress. Also, if they are false puffs, I may consider doing the same to the shoulder roll and sleeve puffs. Thanks in advance!

Just for refresher, my gown is based on Eleanor of Toledo, but here is the actual design:

http://www.fantasy-sewing.com/images/dressconcept.jpg

Natalie
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Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 16:17:00 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] more gown help
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Status: RO

The puffs can be the chemise pulled through, or a fake chemise sleeve tacked
inside so it does not shift. You are doing Ren Faire, so the "look" is
improtant. If you don't want to be pulling on your sleeves all day, go for
the fake inner sleeve.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Natalie
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 1:30 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] more gown help


With my dress design, there will be puffs and slashes in the sleeves,
shoulder rolls and bodice front and back. However, in cosideration of how
the layers go onto the body: Chemise, corset and farthingale, then
bodice/sleeves/skirts... where do the puffs come from in the bodice? Are
they false puffs? If they are false, it would be interesting to make them
interchangeable so I can change the colors/look of the dress. Also, if they
are false puffs, I may consider doing the same to the shoulder roll and
sleeve puffs. Thanks in advance!

Just for refresher, my gown is based on Eleanor of Toledo, but here is the
actual design:

http://www.fantasy-sewing.com/images/dressconcept.jpg

Natalie
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 21:23:47 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 costume movies
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At 16:53 09/05/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 5/9/2006 8:53:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
>I hated  "The Affair". thought the frocks were dire, and the acting
>appalling! But  then it takes all sorts!!
>
>LOL....yes it does take all sorts! You thought the costumes "dire" ?????
>C'mon! Why? I'm interested in why you hate them.
>Acting -wise, there was no one really stellar, but to keep that confusion  of
>a script going took some talent.
>

I don't remember why I hated them - it's a while since I saw it and 
merely have it filed under "Frocks - dire" in my memory.

>
>So your comment "All that Stanislavsky Method in
>the 1660s? I don't  think so......", while accurate in some ways,
>doesn't take into account the  facts of theatre in England.
>***************************
>
>Yes I'm sure acting changed when women were allowed on stage, but not the
>stupid way it appears in the film. All of Restoration Comedy proves 
>that! If it
>had changed like in the film, no one would have NEEDED Stanislovisky in the
>19th  century! And all that lame "sexual politics" stuff. Lines like "What do
>men DO  when they have sex?" Pu-leez! Just DUMB! ....but  beautiful!
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
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The last decent embroidery store in copenhagen is closing.
  16'th of may is last day for the Broderi Antik, now where am i going to find stuff for embroidery other than the internet. Dang
   
  Tania

		
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Mystery - Jericho
Date: Tue, 9 May 2006 08:40:48 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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In a couple of the more upscale Goodwill stores (anybody unfamiliar? 
you donate used clothing etc.;  Goodwill employees--many of whom are 
marginally impaired physically or mentally--sort them, clean them, 
etc.; Goodwill stores staffed by more Goodwill employees sell them at 
bargain prices that are slowly rising as shopping at Goodwill becomes 
chic; the proceeds go back into the Goodwill organization), I'm seeing 
clothes from the 'nineties on racks marked "Vintage." Time is flying 
faster than we know!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On May 8, 2006, at 7:43 PM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 5/8/2006 7:33:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> lynndownward@gmail.com writes:
>
>
> For  those of us who believe that historic clothing does actually bleed
> into the  20th Century,
>
>
> *****************************
>
> Why would anyone think other than this? It was LAST century, after  
> all.
> Those styles worn in 1906 [the year Cokacola stopped putting cocaine 
> in the  soft
> drink and the year of "rural free delivery"...which made Sears a major
> company] they're 100 years old! Most would consider them a "period". 
> Even in the
> 1970s when I was studying costume in school, the 1920s , 30s, 40s and 
> even the
> 50s were considered "period". Now the 70s are period! Even the 80's 
> with those
>  dropped waist, shoulder padded dresses worn with big hair, or the 
> "Dynasty"
> look  would be considered more than just old fashioned.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Mon, 08 May 2006 22:38:59 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
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Hi Susan--
I'm  following a historical timeline...I'm up to 1553. Two kids and
counting. :-)

I'd like to get it done before I have to go to Pittsburgh in late June for
my residency for my MA in Writing. I don't know if I am being optimistic or
what.At any rate I hope to have it done by late summer. However I have been
asked by an agent to allow her to read it when it is done. Here's hoping.
Thank you so much for the interest. I sometimes feel like no one but me
would care if it gets done.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 10:26 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help


Quoting monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>:

> Hi Michaela--
>
> Right now I'm writing a book on Cosimo and Eleonora. (P579 and
counting... )

drooling.  Any vague ideas of publication timeframe?  (did I couch that
in vague enough terms?)  :-)

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Oseberg textiles book now available
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--- Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net> wrote:

> Payment must be by electronic funds transfer  
> International EFT's are very expensive from my bank
> here. Any suggestions as to less expensive
alternate's?
> 
> Beth

Make a group order where the EFT fees would get spread
out over many buyers.   
Transferring money to a foreign bank frequently costs
a great deal on both the sending & receiving sides.

I suspect the annoyance of the group order would
outweigh the monetary relief, unless you have a local
group of Oseberg enthusiasts who each want their own
copies.

Ann in CT

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Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 15:52:14 -0700
From: Lorraine Herr <lherr@rightwaybusiness.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Overdying Wool!
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While looking for information on "overdying" wool fabric, I found allot 
of information about acid dyes and that they are the best with protein 
fibers like wool & silk.  I've read about traditional Indigo dye, but 
how does that do with wool?  I have 6 yards of dark blue "tropical 
weight" wool that I would like to overdye to gain a richer blue.  
Currently, it is not quite navy with a slightly lighter variegated 
thread.  Its rather dull as it is. I know that it will not get lighter 
with overdying, I just want a richer blue tone than it has now.   If 
indigo does well with wool, does anyone in the Portland-metro area have 
a working vat that I might use?  I understand that an indigo vat can be 
used from generation to generation and its not something that I'm ready 
to commit to.  I had a hard enough time keeping my "herman" alive in the 
refrigerator.  :-)   (a herman is a sour-dough starter.)  Thanks in advance

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In a message dated 5/9/2006 6:22:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

and  
merely have it filed under "Frocks - dire" in my  memory.



*****************
 
LOL. I have a few of those. "Emma" is one. So is "Titanic". And how about  
that Columbus movie with Singourney Weaver as Isabella.  Dire!
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Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 00:18:01 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 costume movies
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At 23:56 09/05/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 5/9/2006 6:22:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
>and
>merely have it filed under "Frocks - dire" in my  memory.
>
>
>
>*****************
>
>LOL. I have a few of those. "Emma" is one. So is "Titanic". And how about
>that Columbus movie with Singourney Weaver as Isabella.  Dire!

I have a few filed under "don't bother" too - "Titanic" and was it 
"1492" or "Carry on Columbus" - are on that list. I saw neither, so 
don't know casting!!

Suzi 


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Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 19:16:21 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Oseberg textiles book now available
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Status: RO

Thanks Gunvor,

MC, Visa or Paypal would be quite acceptable to me.

I also pointed out that the Institutt for Arkeologi, Konservering og 
Historiske Studier at the Universitetet i Oslo does accept MasterCard for 
online purchases of their Occasional Papers: 
https://www.uio.no/pay/shop.ordercreate.action?project=1782 And asked if it 
would it be possible to arrange to take orders through them.

Hopefully something will be worked out.

Beth

>Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 17:06:44 +0200
>From: "G.Vinje" <g.vinje@drakt.org>
>
>On Tue, 09 May 2006 08:36:18 -0500, Beth and Bob Matney
><bmatney@alltel.net> wrote:
>
> > International EFT's are very expensive from my bank here. Any
> > suggestions as to less expensive alternate's?
>
>I can check around a little the next days and see if I find a bookshop
>that sells the book through the internet. That way you should be able to
>pay by Visa. Or you might ask them if you can pay through Paypal`?
>
>Gunvor

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, fsbks@mcn.org
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I think Fred Struthers/Books on Cloth is looking into it; I asked him to 
get it for me anyway. His email is fsbks@mcn.org.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> Thanks Gunvor,
> 
> MC, Visa or Paypal would be quite acceptable to me.
> 
> I also pointed out that the Institutt for Arkeologi, Konservering og 
> Historiske Studier at the Universitetet i Oslo does accept MasterCard 
> for online purchases of their Occasional Papers: 
> https://www.uio.no/pay/shop.ordercreate.action?project=1782 And asked if 
> it would it be possible to arrange to take orders through them.
> 
> Hopefully something will be worked out.
> 
> Beth
> 
>> Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 17:06:44 +0200
>> From: "G.Vinje" <g.vinje@drakt.org>
>>
>> On Tue, 09 May 2006 08:36:18 -0500, Beth and Bob Matney
>> <bmatney@alltel.net> wrote:
>>
>> > International EFT's are very expensive from my bank here. Any
>> > suggestions as to less expensive alternate's?
>>
>> I can check around a little the next days and see if I find a bookshop
>> that sells the book through the internet. That way you should be able to
>> pay by Visa. Or you might ask them if you can pay through Paypal`?
>>
>> Gunvor
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 9 May 2006 17:34:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Peeved
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I totally sympathize.  Our area has lost all the
independent vendors of fabric and needlework.  We are
now limited to whatever is carried by Wal-Mart or
JoAnn's.

As a result, several of my friends and I (all of us
serious needlework addicts) get together about every
three months and do a shop hop to either Columbus or
Cleveland or up to Amish Country.  

One of these years we are going to get really serious
and join a Red Hat shop hop to New York City and the
garment district.  The last time I was there I was
seriously hampered by the presence of my other half
who refused to let me buy another suitcase to carry
fabric home in.  Can you believe it!

If they are having a going out of business sale, you'd
better stock up!

--- Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com> wrote:

> The last decent embroidery store in copenhagen is
> closing.
>   16'th of may is last day for the Broderi Antik,
> now where am i going to find stuff for embroidery
> other than the internet. Dang
>    
>   Tania


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Date: Tue, 9 May 2006 21:05:32 -0500
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Instead of retiring, a group of you could open an embroidery and fabric
store. :)
Lyse

-----Original Message-----
I totally sympathize.  Our area has lost all the
independent vendors of fabric and needlework.  We are
now limited to whatever is carried by Wal-Mart or
JoAnn's.

As a result, several of my friends and I (all of us
serious needlework addicts) get together about every
three months and do a shop hop to either Columbus or
Cleveland or up to Amish Country.

One of these years we are going to get really serious
and join a Red Hat shop hop to New York City and the
garment district.  The last time I was there I was
seriously hampered by the presence of my other half
who refused to let me buy another suitcase to carry
fabric home in.  Can you believe it!

If they are having a going out of business sale, you'd
better stock up!

--- Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com> wrote:



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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Oseberg textiles book now available
Date: Tue, 9 May 2006 21:50:55 -0400
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On Tuesday 09 May 2006 8:16 pm, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
[snip]
> I also pointed out that the Institutt for Arkeologi, Konservering og
> Historiske Studier at the Universitetet i Oslo does accept MasterCard for
> online purchases of their Occasional Papers:
> https://www.uio.no/pay/shop.ordercreate.action?project=1782 And asked if it
> would it be possible to arrange to take orders through them.
>
> Hopefully something will be worked out.

Please, keep us all posted as to what you discover.  I've decided I'm going to 
bite the bullet and buy a copy too.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk velvet!
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At 02:28 PM 5/4/2006, you wrote:
>Late last night I was surfing the net and clicked on a link that someone 
>here supplied for Distinctive Fabric. Much to my surprise they list silk 
>velvet for only $19 per yard.
>><snip>
>>Yes it's a 100% silk, our suppliers claim it to be and our burn tests 
>>support their claim. Feel free to order samples to judge for yourself.
>>___
>>Distinctive Fabric Support
>>877-721-7269
>>http://www.distinctivefabric.com


Hi Kate and all,

I ordered a few samples of their "silk velvet", which arrived yesterday. 
Just as I suspected, the bleach test has shown that the velvet has a silk 
backing, and a non-silk pile. Lots of short nubbies left floating in the 
baby jar of bleach. I did not do a burn test.

And the samples did not look encouraging as to the quality of silk blend 
velvet, it was very short, had sticky stuff on the backs of some samples, 
and rather stiffer than I recall my other samples of silk/rayon velvet, but 
I haven't hunted those down yet to compare directly.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Kimiko's Creative World: http://www.kimiko1.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"We keep working and I think that's a pretty good example to set to your 
children, that whatever money you might have, self-worth really lies in 
finding out what you do best. It's doing your proper job, isn't it?" ~ J.K. 
Rowling


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Some of you may remember my project with my daughter's first communion gown. 
I started collecting antique first communion/confirmation photos and fashion 
plates then with plans to put them online.  My daughter was 8 y.o. then... 
now she is 14.  I am finally putting the photos online!

When I was started collecting, another h-costumer, Kathleen Mitchell, was 
collecting the antique photos too.   Kathleen and I have combined our photo 
collections to put in my online Library.  Together, we have app. 125-150 
photos of children receiving these sacraments until the 1940s. I started 
putting the girls' photos online Easter Monday.  My goal is to get as many 
of the photos online as possible before Pentecost, also called WhitSunday.

>From the Catholic Encyclopedia website, 
http://www.newadvent.org/cathen/15614b.htm :
"Whitsunday is so called from the white garments which were worn by those 
who were baptised during the vigil; Pentecost ("Pfingsten" in German), is 
the Greek for "the fiftieth" (day after Easter)."

I call this series "Sunday's Best-Dress Clothes."  As of today, there are 36 
photos of girls in the Library.  There are three index pages you may view 
without having a Library subscription.  There are also two free access 
webpages of photos that were a challenge to clean.  Those pages shown a 
transition of how the photos were cleaned.  I will also be adding boys and 
group photos to the series soon.

Indexes:
http://www.costumegallery.com/Religious/girls/1stCommunion/page1.htm
http://www.costumegallery.com/Religious/girls/1stCommunion/page2.htm
http://www.costumegallery.com/Religious/girls/Confirmation/page1.htm

Free access pages:
http://www.costumegallery.com/Religious/girls/1stCommunion/girl23.htm
http://www.costumegallery.com/Religious/girls/1stCommunion/girl35.htm

Please ignore if the url includes the words, first communion or 
confirmation.  I had the categories set up before doing some extensive 
research.  The conclusion after interviewing several priests, it is very 
difficult to determine by the child's clothing which sacrament was being 
received. The largest factor was that in 1910 Pope Pius X changed the order 
in which sacraments were received.  Another factor was when the bishop went 
to rural parishes.  Sometimes he went to the outer parishes every other 
year.  The bishops confirmed the children.  The age of recipients of the 
sacraments varied, so I couldn't go by the age of the child to determine the 
purpose of the photograph.  The only time, I state on the webpage if the 
photo was for first communion and/or confirmation, was if it was stated on 
the photo.

Another problem arose with a young girl, around the age of  4-6 y.o., in the 
photograph with an older veiled girl.  The younger child could have been an 
attendant to the older child.  The priests agreed that the young girl was 
probably the May Queen.  If Easter ran last in the year, AND the sacraments 
were received during  May, the May Queen would take their photo with the 
sacrament recipients.  The May Queen was the young girl who lead the 
procession to crown the Virgin's statue. May is the month celebrating the 
Virgin.  The procession to the statue would generally be held the same day 
as the sacrament mass. A couple of photos that will be added to the series, 
included the sacrament recipient with a wreath of flowers on a pillow.

Kathleen and I hope you enjoy the series!

Penny Ladnier,
Owner
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com 

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Subject: [h-cost] New book: Patterns for Costume Accessories
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Hello all,

I was looking for something else, when I came across this book on 
amazon.com. It may have been commented on this list already, but my reading 
has been sporadic lately. Anyone here have the book or know more about it?

Patterns for Costume Accessories: The Solution to Almost Any Costume 
Accessory Need (Paperback)
by Arnold S. Levine, Robin L. McGee
ISBN: 0896762416
Paperback: 182 pages
Publisher: Costume & Fashion Press; 1st edition (February 28, 2006)
Language: English
List Price: $35.00

I am wondering if it is worth the price, what time frame the patterns are 
for, and anything else of interest in the book. The title looks 
interesting, but there isn't much on amazon to go by.

Thanks,

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Kimiko's Creative World: http://www.kimiko1.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"We keep working and I think that's a pretty good example to set to your 
children, that whatever money you might have, self-worth really lies in 
finding out what you do best. It's doing your proper job, isn't it?" ~ J.K. 
Rowling


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <6.2.1.2.0.20060509224306.038798e8@64.87.54.245>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New book: Patterns for Costume Accessories
Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 01:21:18 -0500
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I have the book on order. I am very interested to see what they did to the 
glove patterns.

Chiara

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 12:47 AM
Subject: [h-cost] New book: Patterns for Costume Accessories


> Hello all,
>
> I was looking for something else, when I came across this book on 
> amazon.com. It may have been commented on this list already, but my 
> reading has been sporadic lately. Anyone here have the book or know more 
> about it?
>
> Patterns for Costume Accessories: The Solution to Almost Any Costume 
> Accessory Need (Paperback)
> by Arnold S. Levine, Robin L. McGee
> ISBN: 0896762416
> Paperback: 182 pages
> Publisher: Costume & Fashion Press; 1st edition (February 28, 2006)
> Language: English
> List Price: $35.00
>
> I am wondering if it is worth the price, what time frame the patterns are 
> for, and anything else of interest in the book. The title looks 
> interesting, but there isn't much on amazon to go by.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kimiko
>
> Kimiko Small
> Kimiko's Creative World: http://www.kimiko1.com
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> "We keep working and I think that's a pretty good example to set to your 
> children, that whatever money you might have, self-worth really lies in 
> finding out what you do best. It's doing your proper job, isn't it?" ~ 
> J.K. Rowling
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Oseberg textiles book now available
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On Tue, 9 May 2006, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> > I also pointed out that the Institutt for Arkeologi, Konservering og
> > Historiske Studier at the Universitetet i Oslo does accept MasterCard for
> > online purchases of their Occasional Papers:
> > https://www.uio.no/pay/shop.ordercreate.action?project=1782 And asked if it
> > would it be possible to arrange to take orders through them.
> >
> > Hopefully something will be worked out.
>
> Please, keep us all posted as to what you discover.  I've decided I'm
> going to bite the bullet and buy a copy too.

Something can probably be arranged through the museum. But if they do
decide to be difficult I can offer to be an intermediary, and receive
the money through PayPal for you and pay the museum directly from here
in Oslo. Those extra bank fees are such an unnecessary annoyance, and
I'd be happy to help interested h-costers avoid them. :)

Ingrid

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For those in Britain - I have contacted Oxbow and they said they would let
me know if they can get it.  The did think they would be likely to stock it
as soon as the publishers try to sell it them.

On 10/05/06, Ingrid G. Storrø <ingridgs@techarea.net> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 9 May 2006, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> > > I also pointed out that the Institutt for Arkeologi, Konservering og
> > > Historiske Studier at the Universitetet i Oslo does accept MasterCard
> for
> > > online purchases of their Occasional Papers:
> > > https://www.uio.no/pay/shop.ordercreate.action?project=1782 And asked
> if it
> > > would it be possible to arrange to take orders through them.
> > >
> > > Hopefully something will be worked out.
> >
> > Please, keep us all posted as to what you discover.  I've decided I'm
> > going to bite the bullet and buy a copy too.
>
> Something can probably be arranged through the museum. But if they do
> decide to be difficult I can offer to be an intermediary, and receive
> the money through PayPal for you and pay the museum directly from here
> in Oslo. Those extra bank fees are such an unnecessary annoyance, and
> I'd be happy to help interested h-costers avoid them. :)
>
> Ingrid
>
> --
> This email has been scanned for viruses & spam by Decna as - www.decna.no
> Denne e-posten er sjekket for virus & spam av Decna as - www.decna.no
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



--
Caroline

"We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop
playing."
G B Shaw
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dyed fur-history?
Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 05:40:20 -0700
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Hey Rose, I would be most grateful for any pointers.  I am cc ing the
list again because I know sometimes things get missed and I might be
able to get more "hits" on the subject...

Thanks,

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net [mailto:roscelinlimoges@comcast.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 11:36 AM
To: Sg
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dyed fur-history?

Hi Sg,

  I'm very behind on my e-mail.  But I may have some info on a back-up
disc that I need to go through anyway to look for some pictures.  As
soon as I have a few minutes I will see if I can find it.

Rose

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> Have you seen any references to dying fur, not just the leather, in 
> anything from 1100-1600?    I've only seen one reference to fur of 
> purple, but I am not sure it was dyed. I figured they dyed leather, 
> hair, and cloth...you'd think someone would have thought of it....
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Sg
> 
> I've asked this before (a few years ago) and not gotten any leads, but
I 
> know there are new people on the list whose experiences and reading 
> might have come across this.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Oseberg textiles book now available
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If Oxbow has it, it will also be available through their U.S.  subsidiary, David Brown Books.  

Janet
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Caroline 
  To: Historical Costume 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 8:04 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Oseberg textiles book now available


  For those in Britain - I have contacted Oxbow and they said they would let
  me know if they can get it.  The did think they would be likely to stock it
  as soon as the publishers try to sell it them.

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Subject: [h-cost] Peaked at the Oseberg textiles book..
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I had a look at the book today and will buy it eventually. Mostly because  
I have a strong interest in textiles in general. It covers the tapestries,  
the silk fragments and some embroidery and other textile fragments. Lots  
of illustrations and photoes with norwegian and english captions. Quite an  
extensive english summary too. And some good closeups of textile fragments  
showing the weave patterns + a ruler so you get an idea of the size.

It's not much help compared to Woven into the earth and the MOL books but  
definetly worth getting if you are into textile books.
:-)

It's worth cheking with local museums about ordering the book through  
them. I've done that before at one of the local museums here in Oslo. Or  
even a local bookshop.

Gunvor

-- 
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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But the whole question of whether anybody needed Stanislavsky even in the 
19th century is a debated point.

A lot of what he 'invented' is really just common sense.

Not that you'd guess that from modern acting classes.

Debs
(of whose life 'Stan' was the bane while she was at college)
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Subject: [h-cost] Oseberg book ,possible ordering option
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The local uni bookshop has a webbased shop. It's worth asking them if  
they'll get the book for you.
Questions can be sent to ;
support@akademika.no

Gunvor

-- 
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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Status: RO

I'll confess first:
Euphrosnia wears one of the ever popular Eleanor of Toledo knockoffs
that so many of us are doing.  It will be deep red velvet with gold
garlands & grenadines.  I have to redo the skirt as the back pleats
dont lie smoothly.

Adonis is wearing a c1605 velvet doublet that needs a collar. For some
reason, he also sports a black fox stole c1940.
--cin

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=20
My apologies.  Apparently I've just committed both a copyright and  ethics=20
violation by forwarding the message below without asking for  permission.  I=
 can=20
only beg indulgence based on my excitement. =20
=20
Nancy
=20

=20
I've  looked at the book today ;
"Oseberg Textiles"=20
Arne Emil Christensen  and Margareta Nockert,=20
ISBN 82-8984-024-9

There are lots of  illustrations and photoes with english captions and=20
a fairly extensive  english summary. Probably not extensive enough for=20
the true textile buff  though.
:-)

Main topics ;=20
Tapestries, silk fragments, some  embroidery and other textile=20
fragments. Good closeups of the textile  fragments showing the weave=20
and pattern clearly. The size is easy to  figure out due to a ruler=20
next to the fragments. Lots of drawings,  photoes and more of the silk=20
fragments and tapestry photoes I haven't  seen before. A glaring lack=20
of photoes and illustrations of the seams on  the fragments containing=20
such though. Mind you I just skimmed the  book.

Less usefull than Woven into the earth, the MOL series and even  the=20
H=F6gom book(migration era) but definetly a book to buy or at least =20
borrow and partially scan(illustrations and photoes) and =20
copy(summaries). For english speakers NOT too nutty in general about =20
textiles, the last option might be best. For the rest out  there.....
you might as well get it since you've already bought way more  books=20
than you need anyway.
:-D


=20

-----------------
Forwarded Message:=20
Subj: [Norsefolk_2] Oseberg book out   Date: 5/10/2006 1:08:36 P.M. Eastern=20
Standard Time  From: _g.vinje@hotpop.com_ (mailto:g.vinje@hotpop.com)  =20
Reply-to: _Norsefolk_2@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:Norsefolk_2@yahoogroups.com)=
   To:=20
_Norsefolk_2@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:Norsefolk_2@yahoogroups.com)   Sent fr=
om=20
the Internet _(Details)_ (aolmsg://03160720/inethdr/2) =20

I've looked at the book today ;
"Oseberg Textiles" =20
Arne Emil Christensen and Margareta Nockert,=20
ISBN  82-8984-024-9

There are lots of illustrations and photoes with english  captions and=20
a fairly extensive english summary. Probably not extensive  enough for=20
the true textile buff though.
:-)

Main topics ; =20
Tapestries, silk fragments, some embroidery and other textile =20
fragments. Good closeups of the textile fragments showing the weave =20
and pattern clearly. The size is easy to figure out due to a ruler =20
next to the fragments. Lots of drawings, photoes and more of the silk =20
fragments and tapestry photoes I haven't seen before. A glaring lack =20
of photoes and illustrations of the seams on the fragments containing =20
such though. Mind you I just skimmed the book.

Less usefull than  Woven into the earth, the MOL series and even the=20
H=F6gom book(migration  era) but definetly a book to buy or at least=20
borrow and partially  scan(illustrations and photoes) and=20
copy(summaries). For english speakers  NOT too nutty in general about=20
textiles, the last option might be best.  For the rest out there.....
you might as well get it since you've already  bought way more books=20
than you need anyway.
:-D

The museum  doesn't have a webbased shop, meaning you have to transfer=20
money. Which  can get a bit expensive. One option is to try to get your=20
local bookstore  to order it, your local museum bookshop or try the uni=20
bookshop here in  Oslo.

The price ;
990 NOK (Norwegian kroner) + 100 NOK  postage

Contact museum bookshop;
j.g.kruse@khm.uio.no

Or try  to ask the uni bookshop if they can get the book for you, they=20
have a  netbased shop and should accept Visa at  least;
support@akademika.no

Gunvor





------------------------  Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~-->=20
Protect your PC from spy ware with award winning anti spy  technology. It's=20
free.
_Click  Here!_ (http://us.click.yahoo.com/97bhrC/LGxNAA/yQLSAA/PJ_qlB/TM)=20
--------------------------------------------------------------------~-> =20

Post message: Norsefolk_2@yahoogroups.com=20
Subscribe:   Norsefolk_2-subscribe@yahoogroups.com=20
Unsubscribe:   Norsefolk_2-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com=20
List owner:   Norsefolk_2-owner@yahoogroups.com=20

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*>  To visit your group on the web, go to:
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<*> To unsubscribe  from this group, send an email to:
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>Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 17:24:28 -0700
>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>
>I think Fred Struthers/Books on Cloth is looking into it; I asked him to
>get it for me anyway. His email is fsbks@mcn.org.
>
>Fran

They said credit card orders were not possible, but they will accept checks 
or cash by mail in NOK, so now I'm looking into ways to create a check in 
foreign currency. Perhaps Paypal? Anyone done this?

I'll check with Fred Struthers. If the markup isn't too bad, I may go with him.

Beth 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Oseberg textiles book now available
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On Wed, 10 May 2006, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> They said credit card orders were not possible, but they will accept
> checks or cash by mail in NOK, so now I'm looking into ways to create
> a check in foreign currency. Perhaps Paypal? Anyone done this?

I've always used Reusch International Monetary Services in Washington,
D.C., which will issue a check in a foreign currency for a very small
service charge. I was accustomed to just walking in and doing it at the
counter when I lived in the area, but I know I've done it by mail since I
moved away. Call them to see how to arrange that. I have them as
202-408-1200 in my rolodex, though it's been quite some years since I
needed them so things may have changed.

--Robin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New book: Patterns for Costume Accessories
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Kimiko Small wrote:


> 
> Patterns for Costume Accessories: The Solution to Almost Any Costume 
> Accessory Need (Paperback)
> by Arnold S. Levine, Robin L. McGee
...
> 
> I am wondering if it is worth the price, what time frame the patterns 
> are for, and anything else of interest in the book. The title looks 
> interesting, but there isn't much on amazon to go by.
> 

The blurb for it on other sites says: "A collection of over 80 patterns 
for period and contemporary accessories. The headwear chapter includes 
12 patterns from baseball caps to mob caps. There are 22 variations of 
neckwear. Also included are patterns for various hand-held accessories 
such as reticules and gauntlets. With complete instructions and 
illustrations of the finished pieces, you'll find a solution to almost 
any costume accessory need."

Looks like a fairly broad  time-range is covered.

Grannd.com has it advertised for $26, almost $10 less than Amazon, but 
you'd have to pay shipping.




Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: [Norsefolk_2] Oseberg book out
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=20


I've  looked at the book today ;
"Oseberg Textiles"=20
Arne Emil Christensen and  Margareta Nockert,=20
ISBN 82-8984-024-9

There are lots of  illustrations and photoes with english captions and=20
a fairly extensive  english summary. Probably not extensive enough for=20
the true textile buff  though.
:-)

Main topics ;=20
Tapestries, silk fragments, some  embroidery and other textile=20
fragments. Good closeups of the textile  fragments showing the weave=20
and pattern clearly. The size is easy to  figure out due to a ruler=20
next to the fragments. Lots of drawings, photoes  and more of the silk=20
fragments and tapestry photoes I haven't seen before.  A glaring lack=20
of photoes and illustrations of the seams on the fragments  containing=20
such though. Mind you I just skimmed the book.

Less  usefull than Woven into the earth, the MOL series and even the=20
H=F6gom  book(migration era) but definetly a book to buy or at least=20
borrow and  partially scan(illustrations and photoes) and=20
copy(summaries). For english  speakers NOT too nutty in general about=20
textiles, the last option might be  best. For the rest out there.....
you might as well get it since you've  already bought way more books=20
than you need  anyway.
:-D


=20

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A polo shirt (too small, but it's embroidered with the image of my fav. 
horse), a broomstick skirt (needs to be mended where the hem caught under 
office chair wheels), an empty backpack, a mesh bag of small leather purse 
kits (girl scouts), and 5 or 6 sea shell necklaces.

She's a multi faceted individual.



Denise
Iowa 

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Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 16:02:53 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] what's your dress dummy's name? (was What's your
 dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
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Mine's name is Patience.  Right now she's wearing several hats that don't 
have hat boxes, and several neckties waiting to be sewn together into a skirt.

>A polo shirt (too small, but it's embroidered with the image of my fav. 
>horse), a broomstick skirt (needs to be mended where the hem caught under 
>office chair wheels), an empty backpack, a mesh bag of small leather purse 
>kits (girl scouts), and 5 or 6 sea shell necklaces.
>
>She's a multi faceted individual.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed May 10 19:35:47 2006
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] what's your dress dummy's name? (was What's your
	dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
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Mine's Uniquely Moniquely-- it is a Uniquely You dressform. She is wearing a
pearl partlet and nothing else. :-)

Monica Spence

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:03 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] what's your dress dummy's name? (was What's your
dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?


Mine's name is Patience.  Right now she's wearing several hats that don't
have hat boxes, and several neckties waiting to be sewn together into a
skirt.

>A polo shirt (too small, but it's embroidered with the image of my fav.
>horse), a broomstick skirt (needs to be mended where the hem caught under
>office chair wheels), an empty backpack, a mesh bag of small leather purse
>kits (girl scouts), and 5 or 6 sea shell necklaces.
>
>She's a multi faceted individual.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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This spring, my nameless dummy is wearing at the moment half a woodland
faerie costume,
later she will be wearing  a rendition of one of Inara's dresses to be
finished by summer.

Silvara


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
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Mine was wearing a 5-year-old granddaughter's Easter bonnet.  But, as  she 
didn't come visit after all, it will be put away until next year.
 
Not actually ON the form, but my current project--I pulled out an 1812-era  
ballgown that I only wore once.  Will wear it to an event this summer, as  no 
one there has ever seen it.  I bought a lace with pearls and sequins for  trim, 
and added pastel pearls, some of which had come off.  I have those  back on 
and am now making a turban to wear with it (I wore a tiara the first  time but 
I really enjoy making and wearing turbans.)  
 
Ann Wass
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One of mine is wearing the top half of a plaid shirt dress (1940s era) 
with a 17th century pleated linen skirt (gotta give the cats something 
to play under!). The other is cross-dressing as Bilbo Baggins.

	-Judy Mitchell
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Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 23:42:09 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 costume movies
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 5/10/2006 6:41:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Debloughcostumes@aol.com writes:

But the  whole question of whether anybody needed Stanislavsky even in the 
19th  century is a debated point.



**************************
 
Here's an interesting site on theatre in 19th century England. 
 
 
_http://www.peopleplayuk.org.uk/guided_tours/drama_tour/19th_century/default.p
hp_ 
(http://www.peopleplayuk.org.uk/guided_tours/drama_tour/19th_century/default.php) 
 
 
It discusses popular forms like Melodrama [you know what that is] and  
Pictorial Drama [which emphasizes accuracy and design....but then wait til  you see 
their mid 19th century versions of "MacBeth" and "Hamlet"....accuracy in  the 
19th century mind.] It's not til the 1880s that "Cup and Saucer" drama comes  
in....and is a new sensation because it deals with reality. Much  stylization 
is evident in pre-Stanislovsky stage  work.
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Fred Struthers (n California) said he was ordering 10 copies.  Email is 
fsbks@mecn.org.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

G.Vinje wrote:
> The local uni bookshop has a webbased shop. It's worth asking them if  
> they'll get the book for you.
> Questions can be sent to ;
> support@akademika.no
> 
> Gunvor
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this
  spring?
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A brown tape overform, a piece of elastic around the bust, and a bit of 
green velvet that was pinned in place as a mockup, but now is hanging.

I am still busy trying to purchasing the fabric and making the pattern 
before it gets anything more.

Kimiko

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Hi!
   
  My toddler size dummy is wearing a muslin of the Jean Hunnisett 1569 bodice, which I finished a couple of nights ago.  As silly as sounds, I'm really pleased that I have done it, even if it has taken it a month!  I hope to put it on my Yahoo! photos page soon, so I will let you all know, and tell me what you think.  Just got to work out the skirt now....!
   
  All the best
  Jayne 

Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com 
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Status: RO

Jane, who lives at work, is wearing a series of 1915 blouses, finished 
another one yesterday...Judy, who lives at home, is fortunately finally 
naked!  After a very long project, it's finally done and I may take the 
summer off...holy crap, did I just say that???

Kelly


"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
>Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 10:19:17 -0700
>
>I'll confess first:
>Euphrosnia wears one of the ever popular Eleanor of Toledo knockoffs
>that so many of us are doing.  It will be deep red velvet with gold
>garlands & grenadines.  I have to redo the skirt as the back pleats
>dont lie smoothly.
>
>Adonis is wearing a c1605 velvet doublet that needs a collar. For some
>reason, he also sports a black fox stole c1940.
>--cin
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Beth, can you do an International money order?  Your bank should be able to 
do this for you for a much smaller fee than paypal would charge you.

Kelly



"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus




>
>They said credit card orders were not possible, but they will accept checks 
>or cash by mail in NOK, so now I'm looking into ways to create a check in 
>foreign currency. Perhaps Paypal? Anyone done this?


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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060511071353.78918.qmail@web25604.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: What's your dressmakers dummy wearing this spring?
Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 08:18:37 -0400
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My dummy,or one of them, is presently "resting" after a busy week of being
fitted with several vintage and antique wedding gowns. Another one is
standing about sporting a rather Large ensemble circa 1906, in black and
white, for a show this weekend.
kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jayne Thomas" <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 3:13 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: What's your dressmakers dummy wearing this spring?


> Hi!
>
>   My toddler size dummy is wearing a muslin of the Jean Hunnisett 1569
bodice, which I finished a couple of nights ago.  As silly as sounds, I'm
really pleased that I have done it, even if it has taken it a month!  I hope
to put it on my Yahoo! photos page soon, so I will let you all know, and
tell me what you think.  Just got to work out the skirt now....!
>
>   All the best
>   Jayne
>
> Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: What's your dressmakers dummy wearing this spring?
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Status: RO

I just got a dummy, and she's still riding around in the back of my car.  I
am hoping to soon start on an elizabethan gown that I think I have all the
materials for now... black silk for the petticoat bodies, red-black shot
silk for the over gown, velvet for the guards, and lots of 8 mm pearls and
assorted metal beads to accent the embroidery to go on the guards.  I've had
the linen for the partlet and sleeves for quite some time and have the
sleeves about 75% done, so I'm pushing to get that project done before I
start the bodice work... when I'm not making or dressing my dolls, that is

alex


On 5/11/06, Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
>
> My dummy,or one of them, is presently "resting" after a busy week of being
> fitted with several vintage and antique wedding gowns. Another one is
> standing about sporting a rather Large ensemble circa 1906, in black and
> white, for a show this weekend.
> kathleen
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jayne Thomas" <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
> To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 3:13 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: What's your dressmakers dummy wearing this spring?
>
>
> > Hi!
> >
> >   My toddler size dummy is wearing a muslin of the Jean Hunnisett 1569
> bodice, which I finished a couple of nights ago.  As silly as sounds, I'm
> really pleased that I have done it, even if it has taken it a month!  I
> hope
> to put it on my Yahoo! photos page soon, so I will let you all know, and
> tell me what you think.  Just got to work out the skirt now....!
> >
> >   All the best
> >   Jayne
> >
> > Send instant messages to your online friends
> http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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Ethel (it's a grandfather thang) is wearing a pseudo-byzantine that I
have no pictures of.  I may have to take one ....

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 09:22:41 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oseberg book ,possible ordering option
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I talked to Fred (seems like a nice guy), but he doesn't know what he will 
charge yet (with currency exchange and shipping to him) and then I'd have 
shipping from him as well... and I hate to wait...

I need to get his list. He probably has other things that I want.

Beth

At 07:16 AM 5/11/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 10:44:29 -0700
>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>
>Fred Struthers (n California) said he was ordering 10 copies.  Email is
>fsbks@mecn.org.
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press

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Subject: [h-cost] Payment options was Re: Oseberg textiles book now available
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I'll check into them, but they want the check on a Norway bank. Thanks.

Beth

At 07:16 AM 5/11/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 16:14:09 -0500 (CDT)
>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>
>On Wed, 10 May 2006, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
>
> > They said credit card orders were not possible, but they will accept
> > checks or cash by mail in NOK, so now I'm looking into ways to create
> > a check in foreign currency. Perhaps Paypal? Anyone done this?
>
>I've always used Reusch International Monetary Services in Washington,
>D.C., which will issue a check in a foreign currency for a very small
>service charge. I was accustomed to just walking in and doing it at the
>counter when I lived in the area, but I know I've done it by mail since I
>moved away. Call them to see how to arrange that. I have them as
>202-408-1200 in my rolodex, though it's been quite some years since I
>needed them so things may have changed.
>
>--Robin

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From: Cat Dancer <pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
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Alas, I don't actually own a dummy. Yet. But I do early 13th c. and 9th c. 
England, so I really don't need one although I've been contemplating one 
anyway.

My current project, a 9th c. Mercian overgown, is on the couch*, along 
with my embroidery basket. It's a lovely rust-colored wool twill, and 
there were just three yards of it so unfortunately I've had to do some 
creative cutting to imitate a 40" fabric width. The trim will be a 
combination of a very dark green very lightweight wool (I describe it as a 
very green shade of dark) and some nifty scrolly viney fabric that started 
life as decorator fabric and has now become trim. If I could find my neck 
facing pattern I'd be all set.

*the residence of both current projects and homework until the college 
student tenant moves out and I can turn her room into an office

Margaret/Pixel
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
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Quoting Cat Dancer <pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com>:

>
> My current project, a 9th c. Mercian overgown, is on the couch*, 
> along with my embroidery basket. It's a lovely rust-colored wool 
> twill, and there were just three yards of it so unfortunately I've 
> had to do some creative cutting to imitate a 40" fabric width. The 
> trim will be a combination of a very dark green very lightweight wool 
> (I describe it as a very green shade of dark) and some nifty scrolly 
> viney fabric that started life as decorator fabric and has now become 
> trim. If I could find my neck facing pattern I'd be all set.
>
> *the residence of both current projects and homework until the 
> college student tenant moves out and I can turn her room into an 
> office

LOL sounds like my house, except *I'm* the college student!  The living
room is my workroom.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 costume movies (now ot)
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In a message dated 5/11/06 1:17:25 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:



> It discusses popular forms like Melodrama [you know what that is] 
> 
melodramatic?? ;o)

and  
> 
> Pictorial Drama [which emphasizes accuracy and design....but then wait til  
> you see 
> their mid 19th century versions of "MacBeth" and "Hamlet"....accuracy in  
> the 
> 19th century mind.] It's not til the 1880s that "Cup and Saucer" drama comes 
>  
> in....and is a new sensation because it deals with reality. Much  
> stylization 
> is evident in pre-Stanislovsky stage  work.

plenty of authors dealt with reality at the time they were writing (who can 
say that shakespeare, for example didn't), but cup and saucer drama means plays 
set in ordinary settings - I take reality to mean dealing with the human 
condition and human emotions.

it could in fact, be argued that truly realistic theatre didn't appear until 
the fifties and sixties, with osbourne et al, and the royal court, etc.

true, the natural styles of acting don't appear commonly till relatively 
late, but they're not all down to the lauded Stanislavsky, and they could be found 
before him (rarely I admit, because most punters preferred the 'oh my god, 
what have I done'-hand on head-mariah marten school of performance).  but more 
natural styles were being utilised by others at the same time, as suzi pointed 
out.
and of course, stan-boy has more to do with Russian theatre than English in 
the late C19th.  

plus people tend to forget how much natural acting owes to the appearance of 
more natural writing (thanks to writers like brecht and ibsen and checkhov (to 
whom stanislavski's style itself owes a lot)).

and there were quite a lot of different styles and theories on theatre in 
general being sort of 'tried on', by practitioners such as artaud and craig. 
(admittedly not all of them english either.)

the reason I say that most of stanislavski's teachings are basic common sense 
is because I (and quite a few friends who went on to become pro. actors), 
used stans methods without realising it (eg emotional memory, and circle of 
attention and all that).  hence the fact that I hated studying it - becuase to me, 
there wasn't that much to study that I didn't already know.  

Debs
(I did study all this for about six years btw, but that was a very long time 
ago).

PS - just to get back on topic, costume got more realistic asthe acting did   
:oD
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
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I don't have room for a dummy, but if I did she'd be wearing either a 
renaissance fantasy gown in cheap purple velvet, or the ren-fest 
"harlot" dress I'm making in bright red jacquard. I need to get both 
finished "sometime real soon now".



Dawn


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Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 12:12:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Sources on turbans
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At Kalamazoo last week we had a speaker discussing the forms of turbans
depicted in Flemish 15th c. art. We're continuing discussions on that
topic with an eye to publishing that paper, and the question has come up
about previously published work on this topic. I've seen at least one
article by Charlotte Jirousek and the presenter found another by Charles
Cutler, but otherwise sources are elusive. However, it seems to be a
truism that artists of this time used the turban as an "historicizing"
symbol for various saints and other personages. That understanding had to
have come from somewhere, and I can't imagine no one has written on it.

This is complicated by the fact that the presenter is a professor of
English, not art history. That's the nature of costume history -- the
topics tend to cross disciplinary lines, and it can be hard to find things
in another discipline's literature.

To make very clear: I'm not looking for images of turbans (the presenter
has bucketsful of these!), or comments about turbans, or reconstructions
of turbans, or websites on turbans. And we're not looking for information
on turban-wearing cultures. We're looking for citations of academic books
or articles that address the use of turbans in 15th c. Flemish art, for
purposes of citation in another academic article.

Related: Does anyone have a copy of Outcasts: Signs of Otherness in
Northern European Art of the Late Middle Ages, by Ruth Mellinkoff? I don't
have it, but if I did, that's where I'd start looking both for references
to turbans and for footnotes thereon. If anyone has it to hand, can you
let me know if there's any turban content and/or related footnotes? I
don't need the text; I just want to know whether it's worth referring the
presenter to this book.

Thanks in advance,

Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Oseberg ordering query
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Hi,
I've sent of a mail to the uni bookshop to ask about the possibility of  
buying the Oseberg book through them and paying with visa.

Gunvor

-- 
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 costume movies (now ot)
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In a message dated 5/11/2006 1:25:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Debloughcostumes@aol.com writes:

plus  people tend to forget how much natural acting owes to the appearance of 
 
more natural writing (thanks to writers like brecht and ibsen and checkhov  
(to 
whom stanislavski's style itself owes a  lot)).



*********************
 
I was trying to point that out myself. Didn't I mention "other arts"? No  
single art movement, in any medium, or artist for that matter, acts in a  vacuum. 
It's all related to the times. That's why, whether you like the Mona  Lisa 
now or not, doesn't determine its status as art. [Hell, the Mona Lisa has  moved 
on from the "art" category into the "Icon" category...like Munch's "The  
Scream".... Or Grant Wood's "American Gothic".
 
***************************
the reason I say that most of stanislavski's teachings are basic common  
sense 
is because I (and quite a few friends who went on to become pro.  actors), 
used stans methods without realising it (eg emotional memory, and  circle of 
attention and all that).  hence the fact that I hated  studying it - becuase 
to me, 
there wasn't that much to study that I didn't  already know.  
 
*************************
 
I AGREE with you....wholeheartedly! But it didn't "take the stage" in  
England during the Restoration...which is what this tread was originally about.  
"Stage Beautify"...remember?
 
And it's only slightly off topic since design is part of it all.
 
And I thought the theatre site was kinda interesting.




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Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 19:08:17 +0100 (BST)
From: Lena <lenastrid@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sources on turbans
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> Related: Does anyone have a copy of Outcasts: Signs
> of Otherness in
> Northern European Art of the Late Middle Ages, by
> Ruth Mellinkoff? I don't
> have it, but if I did, that's where I'd start
> looking both for references
> to turbans and for footnotes thereon. If anyone has
> it to hand, can you
> let me know if there's any turban content and/or
> related footnotes? I
> don't need the text; I just want to know whether
> it's worth referring the presenter to this book.

I've requested it, and will check tomorrow evening. 
/Lena

Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com 
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Subject: [h-cost] H-cost: what's your dress dummy's name? (was What's your
	dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
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Mine's named Yasmine, and currently she's wearing the pinned together bodice 
of my new 17th cen. high necked bodice.  Sprouting out of her neck are two 
beanie babies--a pink poodle and a pink and white hamster.  Why, you'd have 
to ask my youngest daughter, who's home from college.

Melusine 

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Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 13:24:37 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sources on turbans
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On Thu, 11 May 2006, Lena wrote:

> --- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> > Related: Does anyone have a copy of Outcasts: Signs of Otherness in
> > Northern European Art of the Late Middle Ages, by Ruth Mellinkoff?
> 
> I've requested it, and will check tomorrow evening. 

<Sigh> Naturally I just heard from the presenter, and he has a copy in
hand right now. So, I don't have to impose on your good nature! And thank
you so much for stepping up.

--Robin


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From: Elizabeth <contessaisabel@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
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Thread-topic: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
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I got a new dress dummy for Christmas a "Twin Fit" I love it!  So far this
Spring she is wearing a White Linen with Pink Embroidery Jacket I made this
week.  You can see here on my blog.  http://girlinacafe.wordpress.com/

If I can, before going to summer school starting this Monday she will be
wearing a Pirate Shirt made from Linen, and a Peasant Skirt with the Macramé
belt I made, which can also be seen on my blog.

Shameless self promotion I know.

Elizabeth



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Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 09:26:07 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  What's your dressmakers dummy wearing this spring?
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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The $3.00 garage sale girl is wearing something from a year and a
half ago .....

http://www.glove.org/costume/current/pink_gold.jpg

I am working on this pink one.

Pink and gold with gold on white Cotton trim. (pre shrunk trim)

I had to redo the sleeves and bodice so it is just pinned together
so that I can redo the alignment. This was hard to do cause I wanted
to match the pattern exactly all over. It needs to be pressed. The
bodice will be attached to the skirt. The skirt for ease has a
temporary waist band that will come off later. I need to redo the
underskirt. It is a cream linen that is very light weight with a
very subtle pattern of lines in it. I love how it feels!

I predict that it will be August before I can get back to it so for
now she sits and the fabric is hanging well. (I just got an order
for 2 pairs of gloves for a reanactment display at Plymoth that I am
very excited about. I will have to start a journal for them cause I
have always dreamed about making a pair of gloves from the King
James era, those gloves are to DIE for!!!) Grant it the fabric has
been on her for a while now so the it should not pull when I put a
lining in it. The lining has been hanging for a while too ... sigh.

Chiara

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Subject: [h-cost] Payment options was Re: Oseberg textiles book now available
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Unfortunately, IMO's are not accepted... Thanks for the idea though.

Beth

At 07:16 AM 5/11/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 07:33:42 -0300
>From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
>
>Beth, can you do an International money order?  Your bank should be able to
>do this for you for a much smaller fee than paypal would charge you.
>
>Kelly

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: New MCTBook
Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 16:02:02 +0000
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I've come in at the end of this thread...What is the new MCT book?
Thanks,
Elena/Gia

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: " Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> 

> I'll second that question! I just got mine and even with company I had to look 
> through it. Now, I can't wait for my company to go away so I can read it. 
> 
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender 
> 
> --- wandap@hevanet.com wrote: 
> 
> From: "Wanda Pease" 
> To: "Historical Costume" 
> Cc: 
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: New MCTBook 
> Date: Sat, 6 May 2006 17:00:32 -0700 
> 
> Got my MCT Book last week. My only Question: 
> 
> Robin! Are we going to have to wait a WHOLE YEAR for another? Are they 
> taking pre-orders yet? 
> 
> Regina Romsey/Wanda in Portland 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> 
> 
> _____________________________________________________________ 
> Netscape. Just the Net You Need. 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
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In a message dated 5/11/2006 5:01:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
contessaisabel@optonline.net writes:

http://girlinacafe.wordpress.com/



Wish your pics were a little bigger.
 
Ann Wass
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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 10:54:46 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Interesting adaptation of Bronzino painting.
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Interesting adaptation of Bronzino painting about half way down page.  
<--  obligatory costume content

http://www.worth1000.com/cache/contest/contestcache.asp? 
contest_id=7794&display=photoshop..entries *

* drink warning is issued for this web site. You've been warned.

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

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anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-cost: what's your dress dummy's name? (was What's your
	dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
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The old one, a duct tape double, was named Bess.  The new one hasn't told me
her name yet.

alex


On 5/11/06, Carmen Beaudry <moreplentyn@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Mine's named Yasmine, and currently she's wearing the pinned together
> bodice
> of my new 17th cen. high necked bodice.  Sprouting out of her neck are two
> beanie babies--a pink poodle and a pink and white hamster.  Why, you'd
> have
> to ask my youngest daughter, who's home from college.
>
> Melusine
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 21:28:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: New MCTBook
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On Thu, 11 May 2006 elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net wrote:

> I've come in at the end of this thread...What is the new MCT book?

Pardon the repetition for those who have heard this before...

They're talking about "Medieval Clothing & Textiles," the journal I edit
with Gale Owen-Crocker. The journal is an annual hardback, published every
April. The contents of vols. 1 and 2 are here:

http://www.boydell.co.uk/43831236.HTM
http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832038.HTM

As I noted earlier, my publisher told me last week that Vol. 1 is nearly
sold out; we're talking about the possibility of a reprint, which I
sincerely hope will happen, but I can't make promises.

I'd like to note that two of the papers in the just-released Vol. 2 were
written by sometime members of this list: one by Drea Leed on 15th and
16th c. garment cleaning methods, and one by Danielle Nunn-Weinberg on
Elizabethan women's embroidered jackets.

Members of this list may also be especially interested in the pieces on
early Irish dress (the footnotes to that one serve as a rundown of
virtually everything that's out there on this topic) and Italian
Renaissance "flea furs" (which includes a list of more than 70 documentary
references to these remarkable items). There are other articles that will
be useful to people working in various specialties; we try to cover a
broad range of periods and disciplines in every volume.

Feel free to forward this note around to other lists if you think their
readers will be interested in these books (but please copy me in when you
do).

--Robin


==========================================================
Robin Netherton 
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
robin@nightowl.net
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1333
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting adaptation of Bronzino painting.
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At 10:54 AM 5/11/2006, you wrote:
>Interesting adaptation of Bronzino painting about half way down page.
><--  obligatory costume content
>
>http://www.worth1000.com/cache/contest/contestcache.asp? 
>contest_id=7794&display=photoshop..entries *
>
>* drink warning is issued for this web site. You've been warned.
>
>Althea Turner
>althea@alfalfapress.com

You need to be more specific.  I don't feel like looking at every entry.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 21:40:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting adaptation of Bronzino painting.
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On Thu, 11 May 2006, Joan Jurancich wrote:

> At 10:54 AM 5/11/2006, you wrote:
> >Interesting adaptation of Bronzino painting about half way down page.
> ><--  obligatory costume content
> >
> >http://www.worth1000.com/cache/contest/contestcache.asp? 
> >contest_id=7794&display=photoshop..entries *
> 
> You need to be more specific.  I don't feel like looking at every entry.

Do a text find for the term "Lily Munster" on that page, and you'll find
it. It's about two-thirds down.

But really, the Bronzino one isn't particularly witty, compared to the
others -- I love Monet's Swampthing, for instance. (But I'm very fond of
the Worth contests, even if they do take a century or two to load on
dial-up.)

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 23:10:43 -0400
From: Elizabeth <contessaisabel@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?
In-reply-to: <446.2ab7ce.3195451a@aol.com>
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Oppps sorry about that Ann I'm new to word press.  You can go to my LJ
"MissLemmon" to see the bigger pics and also pics of my Titanic Corset
Mockup.

http://misslemmon.livejournal.com/

On 5/11/06 9:55 PM, "AnnBWass@aol.com" <AnnBWass@aol.com> wrote:

>  
> In a message dated 5/11/2006 5:01:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> contessaisabel@optonline.net writes:
> 
> http://girlinacafe.wordpress.com/
> 
> 
> 
> Wish your pics were a little bigger.
>  
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] SV: Sources on turbans - Mellinkoff
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Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 12:12:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Sources on turbans
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>

>Related: Does anyone have a copy of Outcasts: Signs of Otherness in
Northern European Art >of the Late Middle Ages, by Ruth Mellinkoff? I
don't have it, but if I did, that's where >I'd start looking both for
references to turbans and for footnotes thereon. If anyone has >it to
hand, can you let me know if there's any turban content and/or related
footnotes? I >don't need the text; I just want to know whether it's
worth referring the presenter to
>this book.

I have it at work and will chevk today. I don't recall anything about
turbans, but she writes a lot about headwear. Since turbans don't occur
in Swedish or Norwegian medieval dress, and that's what my dissertation
is about, I didn't take notice if she wrote about that or not.

/Eva 

http://web.comhem.se/~u31138198/main.html



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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor/Elizabethan Jewelery 
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HI, 
  Can anyone reccomend a book ,with drawings or photos , of Tudor and Elizabethan jewelery?
  Or even leads to good paintings would help... I 'm trying to reproduce Elizabethan earrings and I don't know wether they had pierced ears ,for ladies and gents, at that time period,or wether piercing was consider "Crude" or lower class?
  If it was acceptable, how were pearls or jewels suspended from the wires? I'm assuming they were wires- not post/studs-, if they were wires what shape were they?
  Any and all info greatly appreciated.
  melody

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Date: Fri, 12 May 2006 08:55:00 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor/Elizabethan Jewelery 
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At 08:15 12/05/2006, you wrote:
>HI,
>   Can anyone reccomend a book ,with drawings or photos , of Tudor 
> and Elizabethan jewelery?
>   Or even leads to good paintings would help... I 'm trying to 
> reproduce Elizabethan earrings and I don't know wether they had 
> pierced ears ,for ladies and gents, at that time period,or wether 
> piercing was consider "Crude" or lower class?
>   If it was acceptable, how were pearls or jewels suspended from 
> the wires? I'm assuming they were wires- not post/studs-, if they 
> were wires what shape were they?
>   Any and all info greatly appreciated.
>   melody
There is a catalogue of an exhibition called  "Princely Magnificence" 
which has photos of jewellery for the period you are interested in. 
It has scholarly articles, and photos of people wearing jewellery as 
well as the jewellery itself. I have a copy and can post more details 
if it would help. It is quite old, though, (maybe 15-20 years) and 
possibly out of print. I seem to remember it was an exhibition at the V and A.

To answer your question, pierced ears have been fashionable for 
hundreds of years, and I believe that you can see earrings on most of 
the portraits of Queen Elizabeth that are pierced in style. However, 
you also see them "hung" on the ears with narrow, usually black, 
ribbon. Unfortunately I cannot remember which particular painting 
I've seen with this effect.

I don't know what style of wire is correct, but when Annie the Pedlar 
(http://www.anniethepedlar.com/) made the earrings for my Elizabeth 
figure, she did a lot of research, and made earrings with a sort of 
concealed fastening so the "rings" looked like complete hoops.

Suzi 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor/Elizabethan Jewelery 
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melody Watts" <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 3:15 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Tudor/Elizabethan Jewelery


> HI,
>  Can anyone reccomend a book ,with drawings or photos , of Tudor and 
> Elizabethan jewelery?

There is one called Tudor Jewelry by Diana Scarisbrick that is just jammed 
with pretty pictures. It's out of print, but I've seen it at abebooks, for 
under $50.

Dianne

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 414
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> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jayne Thomas" <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
> To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 3:13 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: What's your dressmakers dummy wearing this spring?
>
Mine has neither name nor form at the moment, being disassembled
in the shed. But if she wasn't she'd probably be wearing my new
red linen kirtle. I'm not entirely content with the fit because I lost
some weight over the four months or so it took me to make it, and
I had to keep taking it in. Eventually I got to point where I thought
'stuff it, I'm sure I'll put the weight back on again'. 
I might dig her out again, because I've just started a new houppelande,
and I'm not sure I can put the V bit in the back properly without it
being on the dummy. 

Claire
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Date: Fri, 12 May 2006 13:26:20 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] Latest on Oseberg buying
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I've talked with the people at the uni bookshop. Yes, you can order  
through them and pay with Visa. You have to send the card info by e-mail  
though (divide the info and send 2 mails). You can not pay through the  
website for some reason. They are not quite sure about the price since  
they don't know if the museum will sell the book to them with a discount  
or not. The larger the discount, the less additional cost you'll have to  
pay. I've sent them the bookinfo they needed and asked about the price.  
They hadn't even heard of the book and needed full details to order it.

"Osebergtekstilene"
Arne Emil Christensen and Margareta Nockert,
ISBN 82-8984-024-9
Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo

If you want to get in touch with the uni bookshop and the people who will  
take care of the bookorder;
hfavd@akademika.no


The woman I talked with suggested I have a word with the museum shop. She  
could see no reason why they couldn't get the necessary card info by mail  
and arrange the payment in the shop if the uni bookshop can. I'll be  
passing by the museum again within the next 2-3 days and will ask if it's  
possible to arrange things in the suggested manner. It might be a good  
idea if people who want to get the book gets in touch and asks about doing  
it that way too.
j.g.kruse@khm.uio.no

Gunvor

-- 
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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Subject: [h-cost] SV:re:sources on tourbans - Mellinkoff
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Mellinkoff does mention tourbans. Since her focus is on outcasts she
doen't discuss tourban as sign of holiness but other symbolic meanings,
chiefly as a sign of the Other. 

Eva


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Thanks!


==========================================================
Robin Netherton // Editor at Large
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Life is just a bowl of queries.

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Hi,
  I need some help. I'm trying to find some ideas on costumes from the crusades, I mean that kind of mixture of christian and arabian clothing worn approx. at the end of 12th century. Maybe something like the costumes from the Kingdom of heaven, but rather some sort of noble-costume. I've really been searching for it quite long and I still can't find anything. Please if someone has any idea of some web page about it or whatever sort of information, tell me:-))
   
  Zuzana

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 12c crusades clothing
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Hello,
The only website I know of is www.costumes.org, this is a large reference 
site, and has all time periods. You may find some items on this site.


Lena Meyer
Premier Designs Historic Clothing
76 Jefferson Street
Huron, OH 44839
Email: premier@bright.net
Website: www.premierclothing.com
1-800-427-0907

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 5:00 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 12c crusades clothing


> Hi,
>  I need some help. I'm trying to find some ideas on costumes from the 
> crusades, I mean that kind of mixture of christian and arabian clothing 
> worn approx. at the end of 12th century. Maybe something like the costumes 
> from the Kingdom of heaven, but rather some sort of noble-costume. I've 
> really been searching for it quite long and I still can't find anything. 
> Please if someone has any idea of some web page about it or whatever sort 
> of information, tell me:-))
>
>  Zuzana
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 12c crusades clothing
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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If you look at the Herbert Norris book(my copy is at home)of Medieval
English Costume--it runs roughly 1066-1485. There is a 20's air to the
scholarship and in the color plates, but the line drawings are pretty
accurate, it seems.

I'm no expert, but it seems that the influence of the Crusades on noble
costume was more influencial as to importation of fabrics, like silk and
precious metals, than actual costume as worn in the Holy Land.

During the reign of Stephen, there was a short-lived "fad" for the use
of lots of silk, crinkled or pleated in some way(not quite like the
later creations of Marino Fortuny, but fairly close), into gowns for men
and women that were not only long, but sometimes overlong, with very
voluminous sleeves to match. Tight lacing of women's gowns to fit
tighter around the torso had begun earlier around the time of King
Richard I and King John. There was a lot a preaching against such
fashions throwing a lot a Christian morality around, but of course those
that could afford such fashions wore them anyway.

There was some Eastern influence as too generously criss-cross belting
and a kimino-like overrobe for women.

Nothing directly Asian or Middle Eastern, but filtered through what
Northern European nobility thought proper. 

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 4:01 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] 12c crusades clothing

Hi,
  I need some help. I'm trying to find some ideas on costumes from the
crusades, I mean that kind of mixture of christian and arabian clothing
worn approx. at the end of 12th century. Maybe something like the
costumes from the Kingdom of heaven, but rather some sort of
noble-costume. I've really been searching for it quite long and I still
can't find anything. Please if someone has any idea of some web page
about it or whatever sort of information, tell me:-))
   
  Zuzana

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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Latest on Oseberg buying
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Status: RO

Thanks, Gunvor.  I've talked to Jorun Grønli Kruse <j.g.kruse@khm.uio.no> 
as was told that they do not accept credit cards.. even in person. The 
museum requires EFT, check on a Norway bank or cash in NOK. Please keep us 
informed about the uni bookshop as you hear what the price would be.

Beth


>Date: Fri, 12 May 2006 13:26:20 +0200
>From: "G.Vinje" <g.vinje@drakt.org>
>
>I've talked with the people at the uni bookshop. Yes, you can order
>through them and pay with Visa. You have to send the card info by e-mail
>though (divide the info and send 2 mails). You can not pay through the
>website for some reason. They are not quite sure about the price since
>they don't know if the museum will sell the book to them with a discount
>or not. The larger the discount, the less additional cost you'll have to
>pay. I've sent them the bookinfo they needed and asked about the price.
>They hadn't even heard of the book and needed full details to order it.
>
>"Osebergtekstilene"
>Arne Emil Christensen and Margareta Nockert,
>ISBN 82-8984-024-9
>Kulturhistorisk Museum, Oslo
>
>If you want to get in touch with the uni bookshop and the people who will
>take care of the bookorder;
>hfavd@akademika.no
>
>
>The woman I talked with suggested I have a word with the museum shop. She
>could see no reason why they couldn't get the necessary card info by mail
>and arrange the payment in the shop if the uni bookshop can. I'll be
>passing by the museum again within the next 2-3 days and will ask if it's
>possible to arrange things in the suggested manner. It might be a good
>idea if people who want to get the book gets in touch and asks about doing
>it that way too.
>j.g.kruse@khm.uio.no
>
>Gunvor


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From: Jayne Thomas <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Skirt Questions
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Hi!
   
  I'm back with more questions!  I was planning to make my daughters 1569 gown in black velvet, only to have a concern with the weight of the skirt (I'm putting in a forepart, rather than have a full petticoat) when I got home from purchasing the velvet.
  Would it be alright to do the bodice in the velvet, and the skirt in a black wool blend?  Also, how much ease do I put into the waistband - her waist size is 20 and a half inches?  I'm doing separate pieces to maximise the wear she will get out of it.
   
  Many Thanks
  Jayne
   
  PS I hope to download the photos of the bodice over the weekend.

Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com 
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Greetings--

Abel, Cynthia wrote:
> During the reign of Stephen, there was a short-lived "fad" for the use
> of lots of silk, crinkled or pleated in some way(not quite like the
> later creations of Marino Fortuny, but fairly close), into gowns for men
> and women that were not only long, but sometimes overlong, with very
> voluminous sleeves to match. Tight lacing of women's gowns to fit
> tighter around the torso had begun earlier around the time of King
> Richard I and King John. 
>   
I think this chronology is a little off.  Richard and John came 
considerably after Stephen.  By the end of John's reign (1216), the 
gowns are actually starting to loosen considerably through the body, 
although often retaining tight lower sleeves.

Susan
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Skirt Questions
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Hi Jayne,

the best bet is to find a skirt or pants where the waist band is
comfortable for your daughter and use that measurement. or you can
always use a pair of grommets or eyelets on either side of the
waistband for some give for a growing child. if it's underneath the
bodice point, no one will see it. velvet isn't that heavy and should
be just fine; i use cotton velveteen all the time and there's never a
problem (unless i'm missing something in your question).

i don't know how young your daughter is, but mine started wearing
court dresses with hoops at 3 and velvet and good wool seemed to be
interchangable. i never used anything that was blended with polyester;
too hot even with hoops and it sparkles unnaturally in the sunlight.
not to mention that bodice and skirt usually match with the forepart
or forepart and sleeves contrasting.

looking forward to seeing your pictures,
lynn

On 5/12/06, Jayne Thomas <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> Hi!
>
>   I'm back with more questions!  I was planning to make my daughters 1569 gown in black velvet, only to have a concern with the weight of the skirt (I'm putting in a forepart, rather than have a full petticoat) when I got home from purchasing the velvet.
>   Would it be alright to do the bodice in the velvet, and the skirt in a black wool blend?  Also, how much ease do I put into the waistband - her waist size is 20 and a half inches?  I'm doing separate pieces to maximise the wear she will get out of it.
>
>   Many Thanks
>   Jayne
>
>   PS I hope to download the photos of the bodice over the weekend.
>
> Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Skirt Questions
Date: Sat, 13 May 2006 12:47:21 +1200
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>   I'm back with more questions!  I was planning to make my daughters 1569
gown in black velvet, only to have a concern with the weight of the skirt
(I'm putting in a forepart, rather than have a full petticoat) when I got
home from purchasing the velvet.
>   Would it be alright to do the bodice in the velvet, and the skirt in a
black wool blend?  Also, how much ease do I put into the waistband - her
waist size is 20 and a half inches?  I'm doing separate pieces to maximise
the wear she will get out of it.

It would look better made from the same fabric. If you are worried about the
weight, do not use a cartridge pleated skirt. ou are going to wind up with a
lot of fabric. Why not cut the skirt from gored panels? It was the way every
pattern and every extant item before 1600 we have was done. Piecing of gores
and wide varied though.
It's not too hard to do, and is rather more graceful, and reduces bulk but
still gives you a good flare at the hem.
http://www.vertetsable.com/research_b181.htm
http://www.vertetsable.com/research_f47.htm#pattern
http://www.vertetsable.com/research_f41.htm
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/Tailors/womens.html

There are images which show what could be straight cut skirt panels, but
they tend to be Venetian or a particularly finely pleated German style.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jayne Thomas" <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 7:30 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Skirt Questions


> Hi!
>
>  I'm back with more questions!  I was planning to make my daughters 1569 
> gown in black velvet, only to have a concern with the weight of the skirt 
> (I'm putting in a forepart, rather than have a full petticoat) when I got 
> home from purchasing the velvet.
>  Would it be alright to do the bodice in the velvet, and the skirt in a 
> black wool blend?  Also, how much ease do I put into the waistband - her 
> waist size is 20 and a half inches?  I'm doing separate pieces to maximise 
> the wear she will get out of it.
>
>  Many Thanks
>  Jayne
>
>  PS I hope to download the photos of the bodice over the weekend.
>

In general I think waistbands are more trouble than they are worth for 16th 
century gowns and for a little girl with no hips my recommendation to attach 
the bodice and skirt is doubly strong. It's much easier to suspend a garment 
from a child's shoulders than their waist. If you do make a waistband you 
may have to resort to elastic to keep the balance between comfortable and 
not falling down. I haven't seen evidence for mismatched bodices and skirts 
in England before the advent of the wheel farthingale (and even those are 
vanishingly rare) so I'd suggest using the velvet and following Michaela's 
advice on cutting down on the fabric you use.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor/Elizabethan Jewelery
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Hi. I don't know if they ever did a reprint, but there is the London 
Museum Catalog #2 Cheapside Hoard dated 1928. It doesn't seem to have 
anything definitely an earring, though, but has some pendants which 
might have been, but who knows?  Sorry, Mike T.

Melody Watts wrote:

>HI, 
>  Can anyone reccomend a book ,with drawings or photos , of Tudor and Elizabethan jewelery?
>  Or even leads to good paintings would help... I 'm trying to reproduce Elizabethan earrings and I don't know wether they had pierced ears ,for ladies and gents, at that time period,or wether piercing was consider "Crude" or lower class?
>  If it was acceptable, how were pearls or jewels suspended from the wires? I'm assuming they were wires- not post/studs-, if they were wires what shape were they?
>  Any and all info greatly appreciated.
>  melody
>
>__________________________________________________
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From: Lena <lenastrid@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 12c crusades clothing
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Have you asked the people on the 12centurygarb list? 

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/12thcenturygarb/

/Lena


--- Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>   I need some help. I'm trying to find some ideas on
> costumes from the crusades, I mean that kind of
> mixture of christian and arabian clothing worn
> approx. at the end of 12th century. Maybe something
> like the costumes from the Kingdom of heaven, but
> rather some sort of noble-costume. I've really been
> searching for it quite long and I still can't find
> anything. Please if someone has any idea of some web
> page about it or whatever sort of information, tell
> me:-))
>    
>   Zuzana
> 
> __________________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor/Elizabethan Jewelery
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At 06:04 13/05/2006, you wrote:
>Hi. I don't know if they ever did a reprint, but there is the London 
>Museum Catalog #2 Cheapside Hoard dated 1928. It doesn't seem to 
>have anything definitely an earring, though, but has some pendants 
>which might have been, but who knows?  Sorry, Mike T.
>

There is a brand new, little, book about the Cheapside hoard, 
available from the museum shop but that is later than Tudor, and I 
would not have thought would be suitable.

Suzi


>Melody Watts wrote:
>
>>HI,  Can anyone reccomend a book ,with drawings or photos , of 
>>Tudor and Elizabethan jewelery?
>>  Or even leads to good paintings would help... I 'm trying to 
>> reproduce Elizabethan earrings and I don't know wether they had 
>> pierced ears ,for ladies and gents, at that time period,or wether 
>> piercing was consider "Crude" or lower class?
>>  If it was acceptable, how were pearls or jewels suspended from 
>> the wires? I'm assuming they were wires- not post/studs-, if they 
>> were wires what shape were they?
>>  Any and all info greatly appreciated.
>>  melody





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On 5/12/06, Abel, Cynthia <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu> wrote:
> I'm no expert, but it seems that the influence of the Crusades on noble
> costume was more influencial as to importation of fabrics, like silk and
> precious metals, than actual costume as worn in the Holy Land.

I have a question regarding the silk. What modern silk fabrics would
be good for use as cotes, surcotes, and such?

Lonnie

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Greetings--

Lonnie D. Harvel wrote:
> I have a question regarding the silk. What modern silk fabrics would
> be good for use as cotes, surcotes, and such?
I'm fond of silk taffeta, although you will likely need to line most of 
the weights obtainable without breaking the bank.  I buy mine from our 
East Indian district here in Toronto, and it ranges from $12-$14 a 
yard.  It definitely does need that lining, though.

Susan
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Skirt Questions
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Make the skirt long enough for her in a few years, then hem it to her height
now. That way you can let it out and cover the line with some trim. If you
pleat the material into the skirt, you can redo it onto a longer waistband
in a few years. Just save some of the velvet to make another waistband.
Personally, I'd do both bodice and skirt in the same material. Make it in
wool if the velvet is too heavy. It's actually cooler and lighter in weight.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Jayne Thomas
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 2:31 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Skirt Questions


Hi!
   
  I'm back with more questions!  I was planning to make my daughters 1569
gown in black velvet, only to have a concern with the weight of the skirt
(I'm putting in a forepart, rather than have a full petticoat) when I got
home from purchasing the velvet.
  Would it be alright to do the bodice in the velvet, and the skirt in a
black wool blend?  Also, how much ease do I put into the waistband - her
waist size is 20 and a half inches?  I'm doing separate pieces to maximise
the wear she will get out of it.
   
  Many Thanks
  Jayne
   
  PS I hope to download the photos of the bodice over the weekend.

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Subject: [h-cost] Seeking source: Mayo
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Does anyone have a copy of Janet Mayo's, A History of Ecclesiastical Dress
at hand? I need a page number of a source.

(No need for anyone to go requesting or ILL'ing it on my account -- I'll
do that if necessary -- but if someone has it in arm's reach that could
save me the trouble!)

--Robin

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From: susannah eanes <susannaheanes@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] looking for extant late 18c - early 19c stays
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i am making one last effort to find an extant set of
regency era unboned stays (or having only a few
bones).  in my travels i have seen only 4 or 5 of
these, and all are very different from one another.  i
do have one pattern a colleague is sharing for a
front-closing version, but would really like to find
at least 3 good examples that could reasonably be made
by the average seamstress with a good pattern.  if
anyone knows of a set in either a private or public or
any museum collection that we could go & study, that
would be really nice.

if anyone has access to or can share information on
these, i would appreciate it.  we are working on this
pattern for docent use at a living history site c.
1800-1815.

thanks for any and all information,
susannah
Fig & Folly Historic Patterns
www.fig-n-folly.com



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From: Beth Schoenberg <schoenb@grapevine.net.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for extant late 18c - early 19c stays
Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 02:12:41 +1000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On 14/05/2006, at 1:07 PM, susannah eanes wrote:

> I am making one last effort to find an extant set of regency era 
> unboned stays (or having only a few bones).  In my travels I have seen 
> only 4 or 5 of these, and all are very different from one another.  I 
> do have one pattern a colleague is sharing for a front-closing 
> version, but would really like to find at least 3 good examples that 
> could reasonably be made by the average seamstress with a good 
> pattern.  If anyone knows of a set in either a private or public or 
> any museum collection that we could go & study, that would be really 
> nice.
>
> If anyone has access to or can share information on these, I would 
> appreciate it.  We are working on this pattern for docent use at a 
> living history site c.
> 1800-1815.
>
> thanks for any and all information,
> susannah
> Fig & Folly Historic Patterns
> www.fig-n-folly.com
>

Hi, Susannah,

The Kyoto Costume Institute sponsored an exhibit many years ago which 
travelled the world, called "Revolution in Fashion, 1715-1815."   The 
original catalogue from that exhibit has become a seriously expensive 
collector's item, has now been re-printed, and, I have heard, is on the 
internet somewhere, although I haven't checked it out personally.

The catalogue has at least 3 pages of corsetry covering/bracketing your 
period, so I've listed here the two most relevant.     Page 101 (with 
description on page 152) shows four corsets from the late 18th C (three 
from 1785, including one child's corset;  and one from 1790).  All of 
these pieces have boning in them to some degree, although one has only 
a little boning supplementing quilting.

Page 103 shows three corsets and a brassiere from 1820 or so 
(commentary for this page is also written up on page 152, along with a 
picture of the brassiere laid out flat).   The 1820 corset is stiffened 
only with cording quilted in.   The other three pieces are dated only 
as "early nineteenth century."   The brassiere is described as "boned 
at bust" only;  the other two corsets rely only on cord-quilting for 
their shapes.

Page 152 also has a French print of 1809, called "The Fad for Corsets," 
showing four women being laced into their corsets by their(?)  menfolk. 
   The corset shapes are  a bit exaggerated, but the picture is clear 
enough to give you some idea of corsetry between the eras represented 
by the photo examples.

There are no credits given for the owners of any of these;  it's fairly 
safe to assume that they all (still) belong to the Kyoto Costume 
Institute.

Hope this helps!

Beth Schoenberg
--- in warm and overcast autumnal Canberra

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for extant late 18c - early 19c stays
Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 16:47:11 -0400
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Status: RO

The one I own is made similar to a sort of 'longline bra.  It is a wrap
around with the opening in the front. Of a heavy weight canvas or duck. it
offers a more than adequate bust control. Would be glad to share the pattern
I have developed with it. SASE.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Beth Schoenberg" <schoenb@grapevine.net.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for extant late 18c - early 19c stays


>
> On 14/05/2006, at 1:07 PM, susannah eanes wrote:
>
> > I am making one last effort to find an extant set of regency era
> > unboned stays (or having only a few bones).  In my travels I have seen
> > only 4 or 5 of these, and all are very different from one another.  I
> > do have one pattern a colleague is sharing for a front-closing
> > version, but would really like to find at least 3 good examples that
> > could reasonably be made by the average seamstress with a good
> > pattern.  If anyone knows of a set in either a private or public or
> > any museum collection that we could go & study, that would be really
> > nice.
> >
> > If anyone has access to or can share information on these, I would
> > appreciate it.  We are working on this pattern for docent use at a
> > living history site c.
> > 1800-1815.
> >
> > thanks for any and all information,
> > susannah
> > Fig & Folly Historic Patterns
> > www.fig-n-folly.com
> >
>
> Hi, Susannah,
>
> The Kyoto Costume Institute sponsored an exhibit many years ago which
> travelled the world, called "Revolution in Fashion, 1715-1815."   The
> original catalogue from that exhibit has become a seriously expensive
> collector's item, has now been re-printed, and, I have heard, is on the
> internet somewhere, although I haven't checked it out personally.
>
> The catalogue has at least 3 pages of corsetry covering/bracketing your
> period, so I've listed here the two most relevant.     Page 101 (with
> description on page 152) shows four corsets from the late 18th C (three
> from 1785, including one child's corset;  and one from 1790).  All of
> these pieces have boning in them to some degree, although one has only
> a little boning supplementing quilting.
>
> Page 103 shows three corsets and a brassiere from 1820 or so
> (commentary for this page is also written up on page 152, along with a
> picture of the brassiere laid out flat).   The 1820 corset is stiffened
> only with cording quilted in.   The other three pieces are dated only
> as "early nineteenth century."   The brassiere is described as "boned
> at bust" only;  the other two corsets rely only on cord-quilting for
> their shapes.
>
> Page 152 also has a French print of 1809, called "The Fad for Corsets,"
> showing four women being laced into their corsets by their(?)  menfolk.
>    The corset shapes are  a bit exaggerated, but the picture is clear
> enough to give you some idea of corsetry between the eras represented
> by the photo examples.
>
> There are no credits given for the owners of any of these;  it's fairly
> safe to assume that they all (still) belong to the Kyoto Costume
> Institute.
>
> Hope this helps!
>
> Beth Schoenberg
> --- in warm and overcast autumnal Canberra
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for extant late 18c - early 19c stays
Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 16:55:38 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Kathleen,

You pattern sounds good and comfortable.  WOuld you post it somewhere 
to share?

Thanks.

Susan
"Gentlemen, in the little moment that remains to us between the crisis 
and the catastrophe, we may as well drink a glass of Champagne." Paul 
Claudel

On May 14, 2006, at 4:47 PM, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> The one I own is made similar to a sort of 'longline bra.  It is a wrap
> around with the opening in the front. Of a heavy weight canvas or 
> duck. it
> offers a more than adequate bust control. Would be glad to share the 
> pattern
> I have developed with it. SASE.
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Beth Schoenberg" <schoenb@grapevine.net.au>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 12:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for extant late 18c - early 19c stays
>
>
>>
>> On 14/05/2006, at 1:07 PM, susannah eanes wrote:
>>
>>> I am making one last effort to find an extant set of regency era
>>> unboned stays (or having only a few bones).  In my travels I have 
>>> seen
>>> only 4 or 5 of these, and all are very different from one another.  I
>>> do have one pattern a colleague is sharing for a front-closing
>>> version, but would really like to find at least 3 good examples that
>>> could reasonably be made by the average seamstress with a good
>>> pattern.  If anyone knows of a set in either a private or public or
>>> any museum collection that we could go & study, that would be really
>>> nice.
>>>
>>> If anyone has access to or can share information on these, I would
>>> appreciate it.  We are working on this pattern for docent use at a
>>> living history site c.
>>> 1800-1815.
>>>
>>> thanks for any and all information,
>>> susannah
>>> Fig & Folly Historic Patterns
>>> www.fig-n-folly.com
>>>
>>
>> Hi, Susannah,
>>
>> The Kyoto Costume Institute sponsored an exhibit many years ago which
>> travelled the world, called "Revolution in Fashion, 1715-1815."   The
>> original catalogue from that exhibit has become a seriously expensive
>> collector's item, has now been re-printed, and, I have heard, is on 
>> the
>> internet somewhere, although I haven't checked it out personally.
>>
>> The catalogue has at least 3 pages of corsetry covering/bracketing 
>> your
>> period, so I've listed here the two most relevant.     Page 101 (with
>> description on page 152) shows four corsets from the late 18th C 
>> (three
>> from 1785, including one child's corset;  and one from 1790).  All of
>> these pieces have boning in them to some degree, although one has only
>> a little boning supplementing quilting.
>>
>> Page 103 shows three corsets and a brassiere from 1820 or so
>> (commentary for this page is also written up on page 152, along with a
>> picture of the brassiere laid out flat).   The 1820 corset is 
>> stiffened
>> only with cording quilted in.   The other three pieces are dated only
>> as "early nineteenth century."   The brassiere is described as "boned
>> at bust" only;  the other two corsets rely only on cord-quilting for
>> their shapes.
>>
>> Page 152 also has a French print of 1809, called "The Fad for 
>> Corsets,"
>> showing four women being laced into their corsets by their(?)  
>> menfolk.
>>    The corset shapes are  a bit exaggerated, but the picture is clear
>> enough to give you some idea of corsetry between the eras represented
>> by the photo examples.
>>
>> There are no credits given for the owners of any of these;  it's 
>> fairly
>> safe to assume that they all (still) belong to the Kyoto Costume
>> Institute.
>>
>> Hope this helps!
>>
>> Beth Schoenberg
>> --- in warm and overcast autumnal Canberra
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1825-1829 laced dress bodices
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I am making a dress from the second half of the 1820s that laces up the 
back. I am aware that back lacing was not universal but it was sometimes 
used and I need pictures of how it was done.

A question for those who have seen actual examples of laced-up dress 
bodices from 1825-1829: Do they have staggered eyelets or symmetrical 
ones on the right and left backs?  The only original dresses I own from 
that period are closed by other means.

Thanks for any definite info.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060514030743.6867.qmail@web30314.mail.mud.yahoo.com><e86f134dc938a2cdc86c9e6302acc5a2@grapevine.net.au><001301c67797$93f1c420$9f5083d1@rmitchellras>
	<1bbfdce34badd1d08028f9ccb2a0efc6@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for extant late 18c - early 19c stays
Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 18:56:07 -0400
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As I suggested, I can do it SASE.  Our computer equipment isn't quite up to
more sophisticated stuff.  Just supply me with an address.
KSM
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan Data-Samtak" <pasovasz@aol.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for extant late 18c - early 19c stays


> Kathleen,
>
> You pattern sounds good and comfortable.  WOuld you post it somewhere
> to share?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Susan
> "Gentlemen, in the little moment that remains to us between the crisis
> and the catastrophe, we may as well drink a glass of Champagne." Paul
> Claudel
>
> On May 14, 2006, at 4:47 PM, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > The one I own is made similar to a sort of 'longline bra.  It is a wrap
> > around with the opening in the front. Of a heavy weight canvas or
> > duck. it
> > offers a more than adequate bust control. Would be glad to share the
> > pattern
> > I have developed with it. SASE.
> > Kathleen
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Beth Schoenberg" <schoenb@grapevine.net.au>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 12:12 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for extant late 18c - early 19c stays
> >
> >
> >>
> >> On 14/05/2006, at 1:07 PM, susannah eanes wrote:
> >>
> >>> I am making one last effort to find an extant set of regency era
> >>> unboned stays (or having only a few bones).  In my travels I have
> >>> seen
> >>> only 4 or 5 of these, and all are very different from one another.  I
> >>> do have one pattern a colleague is sharing for a front-closing
> >>> version, but would really like to find at least 3 good examples that
> >>> could reasonably be made by the average seamstress with a good
> >>> pattern.  If anyone knows of a set in either a private or public or
> >>> any museum collection that we could go & study, that would be really
> >>> nice.
> >>>
> >>> If anyone has access to or can share information on these, I would
> >>> appreciate it.  We are working on this pattern for docent use at a
> >>> living history site c.
> >>> 1800-1815.
> >>>
> >>> thanks for any and all information,
> >>> susannah
> >>> Fig & Folly Historic Patterns
> >>> www.fig-n-folly.com
> >>>
> >>
> >> Hi, Susannah,
> >>
> >> The Kyoto Costume Institute sponsored an exhibit many years ago which
> >> travelled the world, called "Revolution in Fashion, 1715-1815."   The
> >> original catalogue from that exhibit has become a seriously expensive
> >> collector's item, has now been re-printed, and, I have heard, is on
> >> the
> >> internet somewhere, although I haven't checked it out personally.
> >>
> >> The catalogue has at least 3 pages of corsetry covering/bracketing
> >> your
> >> period, so I've listed here the two most relevant.     Page 101 (with
> >> description on page 152) shows four corsets from the late 18th C
> >> (three
> >> from 1785, including one child's corset;  and one from 1790).  All of
> >> these pieces have boning in them to some degree, although one has only
> >> a little boning supplementing quilting.
> >>
> >> Page 103 shows three corsets and a brassiere from 1820 or so
> >> (commentary for this page is also written up on page 152, along with a
> >> picture of the brassiere laid out flat).   The 1820 corset is
> >> stiffened
> >> only with cording quilted in.   The other three pieces are dated only
> >> as "early nineteenth century."   The brassiere is described as "boned
> >> at bust" only;  the other two corsets rely only on cord-quilting for
> >> their shapes.
> >>
> >> Page 152 also has a French print of 1809, called "The Fad for
> >> Corsets,"
> >> showing four women being laced into their corsets by their(?)
> >> menfolk.
> >>    The corset shapes are  a bit exaggerated, but the picture is clear
> >> enough to give you some idea of corsetry between the eras represented
> >> by the photo examples.
> >>
> >> There are no credits given for the owners of any of these;  it's
> >> fairly
> >> safe to assume that they all (still) belong to the Kyoto Costume
> >> Institute.
> >>
> >> Hope this helps!
> >>
> >> Beth Schoenberg
> >> --- in warm and overcast autumnal Canberra
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 21:11:32 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for extant late 18c - early 19c stays
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Sorry to jump in late on this, but the Costume museum at the Fashion
Institute of Technology in New York City, N.Y. had one on display until May
13th . The exhibit is down now, but contact them and maybe they can help
you.
Best Regards-
Monica Spence







> >> On 14/05/2006, at 1:07 PM, susannah eanes wrote:
> >>
> >>> I am making one last effort to find an extant set of regency era
> >>> unboned stays (or having only a few bones).  In my travels I have
> >>> seen
> >>> only 4 or 5 of these, and all are very different from one another.  I
> >>> do have one pattern a colleague is sharing for a front-closing
> >>> version, but would really like to find at least 3 good examples that
> >>> could reasonably be made by the average seamstress with a good
> >>> pattern.  If anyone knows of a set in either a private or public or
> >>> any museum collection that we could go & study, that would be really
> >>> nice.
> >>>
> >>> If anyone has access to or can share information on these, I would
> >>> appreciate it.  We are working on this pattern for docent use at a
> >>> living history site c.
> >>> 1800-1815.
> >>>
> >>> thanks for any and all information,
> >>> susannah
> >>> Fig & Folly Historic Patterns
> >>> www.fig-n-folly.com
> >>>
> >>
> >> Hi, Susannah,
> >>
> >> The Kyoto Costume Institute sponsored an exhibit many years ago which
> >> travelled the world, called "Revolution in Fashion, 1715-1815."   The
> >> original catalogue from that exhibit has become a seriously expensive
> >> collector's item, has now been re-printed, and, I have heard, is on
> >> the
> >> internet somewhere, although I haven't checked it out personally.
> >>
> >> The catalogue has at least 3 pages of corsetry covering/bracketing
> >> your
> >> period, so I've listed here the two most relevant.     Page 101 (with
> >> description on page 152) shows four corsets from the late 18th C
> >> (three
> >> from 1785, including one child's corset;  and one from 1790).  All of
> >> these pieces have boning in them to some degree, although one has only
> >> a little boning supplementing quilting.
> >>
> >> Page 103 shows three corsets and a brassiere from 1820 or so
> >> (commentary for this page is also written up on page 152, along with a
> >> picture of the brassiere laid out flat).   The 1820 corset is
> >> stiffened
> >> only with cording quilted in.   The other three pieces are dated only
> >> as "early nineteenth century."   The brassiere is described as "boned
> >> at bust" only;  the other two corsets rely only on cord-quilting for
> >> their shapes.
> >>
> >> Page 152 also has a French print of 1809, called "The Fad for
> >> Corsets,"
> >> showing four women being laced into their corsets by their(?)
> >> menfolk.
> >>    The corset shapes are  a bit exaggerated, but the picture is clear
> >> enough to give you some idea of corsetry between the eras represented
> >> by the photo examples.
> >>
> >> There are no credits given for the owners of any of these;  it's
> >> fairly
> >> safe to assume that they all (still) belong to the Kyoto Costume
> >> Institute.
> >>
> >> Hope this helps!
> >>
> >> Beth Schoenberg
> >> --- in warm and overcast autumnal Canberra
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Ecclesiastical Dress
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Robin,

We have it - what page do you need???

Sandy

At 01:00 PM 5/14/2006, you wrote:

>Date: Sat, 13 May 2006 18:24:46 -0500 (CDT)
>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Subject: [h-cost] Seeking source: Mayo
>
>Does anyone have a copy of Janet Mayo's, A History of Ecclesiastical Dress
>at hand? I need a page number of a source.
>
>(No need for anyone to go requesting or ILL'ing it on my account -- I'll
>do that if necessary -- but if someone has it in arm's reach that could
>save me the trouble!)
>
>--Robin

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New book: Patterns for Costume Accessories
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At 11:21 PM 5/9/2006, you wrote:
>I have the book on order. I am very interested to see what they did to the 
>glove patterns.
>
>Chiara


Hi Chiara,

Please let us know how what you think when you get it in.

Thanks,

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New book: Patterns for Costume Accessories
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At 08:56 AM 5/10/2006, you wrote:
>The blurb for it on other sites says: "A collection of over 80 patterns 
>for period and contemporary accessories. The headwear chapter includes 12 
>patterns from baseball caps to mob caps. There are 22 variations of 
>neckwear. Also included are patterns for various hand-held accessories 
>such as reticules and gauntlets. With complete instructions and 
>illustrations of the finished pieces, you'll find a solution to almost any 
>costume accessory need."
>
>Looks like a fairly broad  time-range is covered.
>
>Grannd.com has it advertised for $26, almost $10 less than Amazon, but 
>you'd have to pay shipping.


Thank you Dawn for this blurb.

Kimiko


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Hello,

can anyone offer any advice please, I'm desperate!

I made a set of swaddling clothes, biggin, coif, forehead cloths, shirt, 4 
12ft long swaddling bands, tail clouts, belly band etc. etc.all from 
beautiful old french linen, fully hand stitched. I've been boiling them up 
regularly with home made soap to soften the linen, it's been working really 
well.

When I stayed with a friend who was going to photograph the set for me she 
put the clothes into her machine for a boil. Unfortunately she had 
previously been felting some red wool fabric in the machine and now I have a 
set of pink baby linen. I've tried the Dylon dye remover and chlorine bleach 
and it's not made any difference.

Avice to remove the colour (or evidence of pink baby linen!)  would be 
gratefully recieved.

I know in the great scheme of things there are worse things that could 
happen, but last night I started to cut out a new set of clothes and ended 
up in floods of tears. My partner has said we can still photograph the 
clothing and he can use the computer to make the clothing look the right 
colour but I've spent three years researching and making this project, was 
hoping to start school presentations in September.

Thanks for listening.

regards

Joy Shillaker 

_______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Disaster!
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I got dye out of cotton with Rit dye remover, I don't know if it's the same
as the Dylon remover, but isn't that cold water? Rit works in simmering
water. Good luck.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joy Shillaker
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 12:30 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Disaster!


Hello,

can anyone offer any advice please, I'm desperate!

I made a set of swaddling clothes, biggin, coif, forehead cloths, shirt, 4 
12ft long swaddling bands, tail clouts, belly band etc. etc.all from 
beautiful old french linen, fully hand stitched. I've been boiling them up 
regularly with home made soap to soften the linen, it's been working really 
well.

When I stayed with a friend who was going to photograph the set for me she 
put the clothes into her machine for a boil. Unfortunately she had 
previously been felting some red wool fabric in the machine and now I have a

set of pink baby linen. I've tried the Dylon dye remover and chlorine bleach

and it's not made any difference.

Avice to remove the colour (or evidence of pink baby linen!)  would be 
gratefully recieved.

I know in the great scheme of things there are worse things that could 
happen, but last night I started to cut out a new set of clothes and ended 
up in floods of tears. My partner has said we can still photograph the 
clothing and he can use the computer to make the clothing look the right 
colour but I've spent three years researching and making this project, was 
hoping to start school presentations in September.

Thanks for listening.

regards

Joy Shillaker 

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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You poor thing--how frustrating!  I second the suggestion of RIT color 
remover, but if you do it by simmering (instead of a hot water washing 
machine load/tub) I also suggest that you do it piece by piece and remove 
the linen from the pot the second it turns back to white.  If you leave it 
longer, it always seems to turn yellow, and that yellow is just about 
impossible to remove. Also, be sure to pre-wash the linen several times, as 
the RIT color remover reacts with bleach, turning the fabric orange when 
exposed to both and then to air, and probably sending off a lot of nasty 
fumes as well.  (This happened to me on linen, even after having sent the 
color-removered linen through a wash cycle before trying the bleach.) That 
orange can be bleached out though, if I remember right.  (Isn't chemistry 
fun.)

Aaaanyway.  Dharma Trading sells a color remover which might be worth a try:
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1535-AA.shtml
In my experience, it's pretty similar to the RIT stuff, but it may be 
different chemically. Also, hydrogen peroxide might be worth trying. 
Specific types of bleach to try are enzymatic bleach, which should get rid 
of any protein-based material (hey, it could be bug red), and oxygen 
bleaches such as oxy-clean, which are hydrogen peroxide based.

Silly though this may sound, you also might want to just try washing it 
normally a couple more times.  I had this cotton cardigan which got 
absolutely covered in purple ink when a pen burst; I tried washing it once 
just to see if any of the ink would budge--it didn't--then left it in the 
laundry room to wait for me to feel like dealing with it; it stayed there 
until I'd forgotten why it was there in the first place.  A few months 
later, I accidentally put it in with a load of laundry, and it came out 
clean. Weird.

Hope some of this helps,
-E House

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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Disaster!
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Status: RO

Maybe laying it on a bush or lawn in the sun damp with lemon juice.
Has worked for me in the past to lighten stains.

No sun here, we are in the midst of 8 days of rain with no end in
sight,  floods everywhere.  Luckily we are on a hill built on
bedrock.....

Katy

On 5/16/06, Joy Shillaker <joy@c17th.org> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> can anyone offer any advice please, I'm desperate!
>
> I made a set of swaddling clothes, biggin, coif, forehead cloths, shirt, 4
> 12ft long swaddling bands, tail clouts, belly band etc. etc.all from
> beautiful old french linen, fully hand stitched. I've been boiling them up
> regularly with home made soap to soften the linen, it's been working really
> well.
>
> When I stayed with a friend who was going to photograph the set for me she
> put the clothes into her machine for a boil. Unfortunately she had
> previously been felting some red wool fabric in the machine and now I have a
> set of pink baby linen. I've tried the Dylon dye remover and chlorine bleach
> and it's not made any difference.
>
> Avice to remove the colour (or evidence of pink baby linen!)  would be
> gratefully recieved.
>
> I know in the great scheme of things there are worse things that could
> happen, but last night I started to cut out a new set of clothes and ended
> up in floods of tears. My partner has said we can still photograph the
> clothing and he can use the computer to make the clothing look the right
> colour but I've spent three years researching and making this project, was
> hoping to start school presentations in September.
>
> Thanks for listening.
>
> regards
>
> Joy Shillaker
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Disaster!
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In a message dated 5/16/2006 8:20:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
katybishop64@gmail.com writes:

When I  stayed with a friend who was going to photograph the set for me she
>  put the clothes into her machine for a boil. Unfortunately she had
>  previously been felting some red wool fabric in the machine and now I have 
 a
> set of pink baby linen. I've tried the Dylon dye remover and  chlorine 
bleach
> and it's not made any  difference.



I second everyone else's suggestions, but have one more.  I have found  the 
Carbona stain removers to be fantastic--the only thing that takes red wine  
out.  There are various formulas, and I'm thinking the one that removes  lipstick 
might be worth a try, as the colors used in lipstick are probably  similar.  
I would try one piece and see if it does anything.  Some of  these are powders 
and some are liquids, and it would probably take a LOT of the  liquid, but if 
it works, I think it would be worth the expense.  But try it  before you 
invest in a dozen bottles of the stuff.
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 15:58:43 +0200
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
From: "G.Vinje" <g.vinje@drakt.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Oseberg+uni shop
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I just heard from the uni shop. The woman I was in touch with had checked  
with the museum and the price should be about the same. Get in touch with  
either ;
Kirsti.Kjerkreit@akademika.no
Or ;
hfavd@akademika.no

Gunvor

-- 
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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O my God...that makes your heart hurt. :(

I have no advice to give, but I wish you all the best of luck.

Arlys

On Tue, 16 May 2006 08:29:49 +0100 "Joy Shillaker" <joy@c17th.org>
writes:
> Hello,
> 
> can anyone offer any advice please, I'm desperate!
> 
> I made a set of swaddling clothes, biggin, coif, forehead cloths, 
> shirt, 4 
> 12ft long swaddling bands, tail clouts, belly band etc. etc.all from 
> 
> beautiful old french linen, fully hand stitched. I've been boiling 
> them up 
> regularly with home made soap to soften the linen, it's been working 
> really 
> well.

[snip]
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 21:38:32 +0200
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Hello,
There are so many nice movies to get from Amerika, but i heard they are 
specially coded and that your dvd player has to be special coded to show 
them.
How do i find out if my player will take them?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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It's my understanding that you would need a special dvd player that can play
the various codes.  DVDs are coded by "region", just like there are various
types of vcr tapes and players (PAL, NTSC, and the version they use in
France).

It's worth doing some research... even for myself... as I'll be in Germany
this summer and would like to bring back a couple of movies (and be able to
watch them).

Kristin


On 5/16/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> There are so many nice movies to get from Amerika, but i heard they are
> specially coded and that your dvd player has to be special coded to show
> them.
> How do i find out if my player will take them?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 21:20:34 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic DVD codes
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At 20:38 16/05/2006, you wrote:
>Hello,
>There are so many nice movies to get from Amerika, but i heard they 
>are specially coded and that your dvd player has to be special coded 
>to show them.
>How do i find out if my player will take them?
>
>Bjarne


There should be a help desk address with  the instructions that came 
with the player. Try contacting them to find out. (Or see if it says 
in the handbook?)

I bought one a player, very cheaply, that plays all zones, and we 
have another that just plays European ones. These are Zone 2, which I 
suspect is what you are. You will find this on the back of each 
DVD.  But you will need to know if your player is multi zone.

Hope that makes sense.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Flossing - corsets, not teeth!!
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I have some lovely pictures of the kind of flossing that was used in 
the late 19th century, but they do not come with instructions.  Can 
anyone point me at a website, or instructions please?

Suzi


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Please excuse the forwarded message, but I can't take this commission and I thought maybe someone here would be interested.  Please reply to the original sender, not me.

Thanks,

Melusine
    From: tyiles 
    To: moreplentyn@earthlink.net 
    Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 4:16 AM
    Subject: Costume Price


    Hello,

    You are an amazing artesian! Your work is beautiful. I envy your talent (I cannot sew on a button, sad isn't it?).

    My daughter has to do a presentation on Abraham Lincoln and she has to wear a Lincoln costume. Is this something you are interested in or able to do? She will need the long coat, vest and tie, white shirt, and pants. The fabric cannot be wool, she has to stand in her costume for a couple hours repeating her Lincoln speech (she is supposed to be the wax version of Lincoln). She will be in the gym with 75 other kids and in the past it as been very hot that week.  If you are interested, what would you charge?

    Kelly Iles
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Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 14:49:40 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic DVD codes
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
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Status: RO

I ran into this a couple of times.

The coding is sometimes specific to the region of the world you live
in.

* Region 1 - The U.S., U.S. territories and Canada
* Region 2 - Europe, Japan, the Middle East, Egypt, South Africa,
Greenland
* Region 3 - Taiwan, Korea, the Philippines, Indonesia, Hong Kong
* Region 4 - Mexico, South America, Central America, Australia, New
Zealand, Pacific Islands, Caribbean
* Region 5 - Russia (okay, former Russia), Eastern Europe, India,
most of Africa, North Korea, Mongolia
* Region 6 - China

Most of the DVD's will have text on the back of the packaging that
it is for a specific region or you will see a globe with the number
superimposed on it. It will be very obvious on there what you have.

If you are purchasing sight unseen you will have to ask the seller
what region it is specific to before you make your final purchase.

I currently own a very nice copy of Harry Potter and the
Philosopher's Stone. As you can tell from the title ... it is not
for my region. :)

Chiara


On Tue, May 16, 2006 2:38 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews said:
> Hello,
> There are so many nice movies to get from Amerika, but i heard they
> are
> specially coded and that your dvd player has to be special coded to
> show
> them.
> How do i find out if my player will take them?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic DVD codes
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In a message dated 5/16/2006 4:22:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

> These are Zone 2, which I 
> suspect is what you are. You will find this on the back of each 
> DVD.  But you will need to know if your player is multi zone.
> 

*******************************


Yes, My David Attenburough nature shows [which I love] came from the UK 
because you can't get them here in America....so they are Zone 2. My DVD player 
only plays Zone 1. But I can watch them on my computer. I'm still thinking of 
getting a player that plays any zone.
_______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <414.1e9b2b9.319ba737@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic DVD codes
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 00:22:09 +0200
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AAhhhhh that would be a solution, i can play all DVD´s on my computer cant 
i?
Thanks a lot for that solution, i would not mind if i only could watch it on 
the puter.
Its because i found a place that had the version with Teatre du Solleil 
about Mollieres life, and there are many other historical costume dramas 
available, like Quills, wich i never did see and so on.
Thanks Albertcat...........

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 12:07 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic DVD codes


> In a message dated 5/16/2006 4:22:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
>> These are Zone 2, which I
>> suspect is what you are. You will find this on the back of each
>> DVD.  But you will need to know if your player is multi zone.
>>
>
> *******************************
>
>
> Yes, My David Attenburough nature shows [which I love] came from the UK
> because you can't get them here in America....so they are Zone 2. My DVD 
> player
> only plays Zone 1. But I can watch them on my computer. I'm still thinking 
> of
> getting a player that plays any zone.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

My recommendation?  DVD players are cheap and relatively light.  Get a cheap one and have a friend from the US ship it to you, that way you will be covered, instead of trying to figure out DVD coding.  Someone on the East Coast could probably get it to you cheaper than I could, but if you want me to track down a cheap WalMart model and shipping, let me know.

LuAnn 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Bjarne og Leif Drews<mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk> 
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 12:38 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] off topic DVD codes


  Hello,
  There are so many nice movies to get from Amerika, but i heard they are 
  specially coded and that your dvd player has to be special coded to show 
  them.
  How do i find out if my player will take them?

  Bjarne





  Leif og Bjarne Drews
  www.my-drewscostumes.dk<http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/>

  http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/<http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/> 


  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic DVD codes
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

You can also try shopping at Amazon.ca (Canada) That's
where my Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone came
from. Both Region 1 *and* with the original title.

MaggiRos

--- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

 
> Yes, My David Attenburough nature shows [which I
> love] came from the UK 
> because you can't get them here in America....so
> they are Zone 2. My DVD player 
> only plays Zone 1. But I can watch them on my
> computer. I'm still thinking of 
> getting a player that plays any zone.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic DVD codes
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
  
>>>There should be a help desk address with the instructions that came with the player. Try contacting them to find out. (Or see if it says in the handbook?)<<<


  I agree with Suzi - it should tell you in the manual that came with your player if it plays 'all regions'. If you don't have the manual try phoning the company that makes it to find out (and yes, like Adele said you will need to find out if it can play PAL and NTSC dvds too). You will need the brand and model number to do that, but you will need it again if it isn't an 'all regions' player - with the brand and model number you can most likely find someone selling a code for it that unlocks the DVD player. That's what we did anyhow - found a guy selling a code book (pdf file sent via e-mail) on eBay.  :-)
   
  Bella

		
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Thankyou so much for all the advice and suggestions. It feels so much better 
that there might be a way to sort things out. As my knowledge of Chemistry 
is rudimentary, I'd assumed that if good old bleach didn't work nothing 
would.

Is Rit an American product?

thanks again
regards

Joy 

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic DVD codes
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Bella wrote:
>   I agree with Suzi - it should tell you in the manual that came with your player if it plays 'all regions'. If you don't have the manual try phoning the company that makes it to find out (and yes, like Adele said you will need to find out if it can play PAL and NTSC dvds too). 

Actually, the issue there is whether your TV can display both modes.  
Sets made in the last ten years often can, but you need to check the 
manual to be sure.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

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hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic DVD codes
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Good point Adele - mine is less than ten years old and I forgot about that important detail.

Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:
>>>Actually, the issue there is whether your TV can display both modes. 
Sets made in the last ten years often can, but you need to check the 
manual to be sure.<<<



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Kristin wrote:
> It's my understanding that you would need a special dvd player that 
> can play
> the various codes.  DVDs are coded by "region", just like there are 
> various
> types of vcr tapes and players (PAL, NTSC, and the version they use in
> France).
DVD region codes and PAL/NTSC/etc formatting are _not_ the same thing.  
PAL/NTSC are different TV picture formats used in different parts of the 
world.  They serve no special purpose; they're just different.  DVD 
region codes are a way of attempting to enforce DVD manufacturers' 
distribution plans (by making discs unplayable outside their intended 
zone) and, supposedly, preventing piracy.  This is purely a locking 
mechanism, _not_ a difference in disc format.

Anyway.
It's possible that your DVD player can play all zones.  It's also 
possible that there's a hack available to "unlock" your DVD player-- if 
you can unlock the player, you'll be able to play discs from other zones. .


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Disaster!
Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 20:05:29 -0600
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Status: RO

Oh, boyohboy, does that ever make me wince in sympathy!
About a decade ago, I had something similar happen, involving an embroidered
linen coif.  The embroidery was done in red silk, and about the 5th time it
got washed (in Woolite...yes, I know better now), the dye in the silk cut
loose and turned the entire thing a spotty pink mess.  I was horrified, and
couldn't even bleach it because of the embroidery.
What worked for me was a recommendation from a lady who owns a lot of
unusual textiles.  There's a fairly common laundry treatment called "Biz"
that you dissolve in hot water and use to soak your items.  I put my poor
coif through two separate soaks, and a good wash, and it's almost 100% clear
of the pink stain.
I think there's also something called synthropol? that Dharma Trading sells
for use in dyeing fabrics.  I think it's good for removing vagrant dyes, so
you might try that, as well....
Good luck!
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@c17th.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 1:29 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Disaster!


> Hello,
>
> can anyone offer any advice please, I'm desperate!
>
> I made a set of swaddling clothes, biggin, coif, forehead cloths, shirt, 4
> 12ft long swaddling bands, tail clouts, belly band etc. etc.all from
> beautiful old french linen, fully hand stitched. I've been boiling them up
> regularly with home made soap to soften the linen, it's been working
really
> well.
>
> When I stayed with a friend who was going to photograph the set for me she
> put the clothes into her machine for a boil. Unfortunately she had
> previously been felting some red wool fabric in the machine and now I have
a
> set of pink baby linen. I've tried the Dylon dye remover and chlorine
bleach
> and it's not made any difference.
>
> Avice to remove the colour (or evidence of pink baby linen!)  would be
> gratefully recieved.
>
> I know in the great scheme of things there are worse things that could
> happen, but last night I started to cut out a new set of clothes and ended
> up in floods of tears. My partner has said we can still photograph the
> clothing and he can use the computer to make the clothing look the right
> colour but I've spent three years researching and making this project, was
> hoping to start school presentations in September.
>
> Thanks for listening.
>
> regards
>
> Joy Shillaker


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Yes, widely available at grocery and drug stores. Where are you?
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joy Shillaker
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 4:31 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Disaster


Thankyou so much for all the advice and suggestions. It feels so much better

that there might be a way to sort things out. As my knowledge of Chemistry 
is rudimentary, I'd assumed that if good old bleach didn't work nothing 
would.

Is Rit an American product?

thanks again
regards

Joy 

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Subject: [h-cost] Corset flossing
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"I have some lovely pictures of the kind of flossing that was used in 
the late 19th century, but they do not come with instructions.  Can 
anyone point me at a website, or instructions please? Suzi"

Suzi - I've not found anything about how to actually do it on the web or indeed in any books. However, playing around on a couple of corsets I've found that using two or three strands of cotton embroidery floss (since I'm not going to be washing them), secured with a couple of small stitches inside and then building up the design over and through the spiral from the front works. It is /very/ hard on your fingers especially until you get the feel for the spacing between coils but can be very effective.
 
I'm sorry that I can't be more help but if I find anything will be sure to post it here.
 
Katherine S.
 
"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
"Are you tugging my squirrel?"
"...I will answer your questions but only in the language of a crow..." 
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Hi,
    Does anyone know where you can purchase filigree metal plaques for making a Tudor / Elizabethan girdle?
   I'd like to be able to glue stones to the plaques to "dress" them up.
   I know there are people selling these girdles premade, so they have to be getting them from somewhere.
  Thanks
  Melody

		
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques...
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 00:56:17 -0700
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I would also love to hear of anyone who has wholesale or inexpensive pieces.
I go to the gem show and they have some but it is about 89.00 for what I
need. They are not very big either. Also? Does anyone know a place that
sells pearls on chain?

Cilean 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 12:17 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques...

Hi,
    Does anyone know where you can purchase filigree metal plaques for
making a Tudor / Elizabethan girdle?
   I'd like to be able to glue stones to the plaques to "dress" them up.
   I know there are people selling these girdles premade, so they have to be
getting them from somewhere.
  Thanks
  Melody

		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed May 17 03:59:44 2006
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Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 08:59:07 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset flossing
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At 07:50 17/05/2006, you wrote:

>"I have some lovely pictures of the kind of flossing that was used in
>the late 19th century, but they do not come with instructions.  Can
>anyone point me at a website, or instructions please? Suzi"
>
>Suzi - I've not found anything about how to actually do it on the 
>web or indeed in any books. However, playing around on a couple of 
>corsets I've found that using two or three strands of cotton 
>embroidery floss (since I'm not going to be washing them), secured 
>with a couple of small stitches inside and then building up the 
>design over and through the spiral from the front works. It is 
>/very/ hard on your fingers especially until you get the feel for 
>the spacing between coils but can be very effective.
>
>I'm sorry that I can't be more help but if I find anything will be 
>sure to post it here.
>
Katherine

Thanks for that - I have actually done fairly simple style flossing 
with proper flossing silk - bought in a charity shop many years ago!! 
But I would really like to do it properly. And yes, I agree, it is 
hard on the fingers - and the needles - bent at least two trying to 
fight one through a space that wasn't there!

Suzi 


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Hello.
Many thanks for all your help with the DVD problems.
I have to look in my manual,
But the idea that i can look all dvds on my computer, made me think, i want 
to buy movies now.

Many thanks

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Jayne Thomas <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Photos of 1569 Bodice
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Hi!
   
  I've finally managed to get some photos of the muslin of my daughters 1569 bodice.  It can be found at http://photos.yahoo.com/dresspattern .Please excuse the pink shirt, it's pretending to be a white chemise!  She has tried it on, and fits perfectly now (I cut it on age 5!), so I'm worried by the time that I get the real thing finished, it will not fit. I only get about 7 or 8 hours sewing a week, and at the moment I'm doing the muslin of the skirt. The velvet and the forepart material have cost me a small fortune, and I need to get it right before I cut the 'good stuff'!
   
  Best Wishes
  Jayne
   

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <003601c6798a$83e46930$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dvd codes
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 20:24:18 +1000
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Status: RO

You might want to ask whoever you bought your computer from some computer 
DVD drives are programmed to do a set number of switches between different 
regions before it locks and the counter has to be reset by a professional. 
So if for example your DVD drive is set to do 3 switches before it locks 
(though the number won't actually be that low) and you have region 1 and 
region 2 DVDs you want to play on your computer if you play the region 1 DVD 
followed by the region 2 DVD that's one switch, then next time you play a 
region 1 DVD you're up to two switches then playing one more region 1 DVD is 
your third switch, at this point your computer will only play region 1 DVDs 
until you take it in to be serviced (in some cases it's a program in the 
computer which is keeping count and somebody with technical knowledge could 
probably work out how to reset it but other times it's the actual DVD drive 
itself and there's a physical switch which needs to be reset manually)
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 6:18 PM
Subject: [h-cost] dvd codes


> Hello.
> Many thanks for all your help with the DVD problems.
> I have to look in my manual,
> But the idea that i can look all dvds on my computer, made me think, i 
> want to buy movies now.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.6.0/341 - Release Date: 16/05/2006
>
> 

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] off topic DVD codes
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My niece and her husband live in Switzerland.  They are constantly ordering
DVDs from Amazon.com and having them sent to me (in Virginia). I then send
them on to Switzerland.  They have no trouble playing them on either of
their machines.

Anne

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Subject: [h-cost] filigree
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Try http://www.fancifulsinc.com/ for filigree pieces.  Their web site is kind of a pain to use but they have a great selection.

Janet
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques...
References: <20060517071704.31509.qmail@web36612.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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I've used some from these pages before:
http://www.natures-gems.com/mefi.html
http://www.natures-gems.com/plgo.html

They're thin enough that you can bend them if you try, but I have a 
girdle and carcanet made from some with glass pearls in between, and 
they've held up for years.

Melanie Schuessler



Melody Watts wrote:
> Hi,
>     Does anyone know where you can purchase filigree metal plaques for making a Tudor / Elizabethan girdle?
>    I'd like to be able to glue stones to the plaques to "dress" them up.
>    I know there are people selling these girdles premade, so they have to be getting them from somewhere.
>   Thanks
>   Melody
> 
> 		
> ---------------------------------
> Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
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> 



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In a message dated 5/17/2006 6:25:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
ewalpole@tpg.com.au writes:

> You might want to ask whoever you bought your computer from some computer 
> DVD drives are programmed to do a set number of switches between different 
> regions before it locks and the counter has to be reset by a professional. 
> 

************************


Yes!

Mine has 4 more switches left.

Isn't this all bogus! Just why can't we watch what we want????
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Subject: [h-cost] pricing muslin
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Can anyone tell me if purchasing a 15 yard bolt of muslin for $69 is a good deal?  It's for theatrical purposes, and we may need a total of 100 plus yards, fairly lightweight transparent muslin.

Any help on sourcing appreciated.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none: 
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use, 
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key: 
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare
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You shouldn't have to pay more than about a buck and a half per yard, even
at retail. In my opinion, $69 for 15 yards is a ripoff...

-- Talia

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pricing muslin
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In a message dated 5/17/2006 4:46:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
angelalazear@sbcglobal.net writes:

15 yard  bolt of muslin for $69 is a good deal?


That is more than $4 a yard, and doesn't sound like a good deal to me,  
unless it is the extra wide kind (60" or 90").  I think you should be able  to find 
45" for $2 a yard or so.:
 
Just checked--Joann on-line has both bleached and unbleached, 44-45" wide,  
50 yard bolts for $98.99:
 
 
_http://www.joannfabrics.com/search/search_results.jhtml;$sessionid$IZE5QWQAAB
OVMP4SY5NBJAR50LD3OEPO?CATID=3&keywords=muslin&_requestid=86389_ 
(http://www.joannfabrics.com/search/search_results.jhtml;$sessionid$IZE5QWQAABOVMP4SY5NBJAR
50LD3OEPO?CATID=3&keywords=muslin&_requestid=86389) 
 
Hancock's on-line price is $2.49/yd.
 
Ann Wass

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What is the theatrical use you envision for this muslin?
Most muslin for general theater use can be found for about $1 a yard if you
shop around.  If you are needing it for flats(scene) of unusual
width(72"/109"), the price you mention may not be too bad. For misc. costume
use, you can find it for a much cheaper price!!
Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angela F Lazear" <angelalazear@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 4:44 PM
Subject: [h-cost] pricing muslin


Can anyone tell me if purchasing a 15 yard bolt of muslin for $69 is a good
deal?  It's for theatrical purposes, and we may need a total of 100 plus
yards, fairly lightweight transparent muslin.

Any help on sourcing appreciated.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare
_______________________________________________
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Boy, I wouldn't pay that for it.  If it's utility muslin, I get the 99 cent a yard stuff on a full bolt from JoAnn's, and use a 40% off coupon.  Grand total for a 50 yard bolt?  Thirty bucks and tax...

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Angela F Lazear<mailto:angelalazear@sbcglobal.net> 
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 1:44 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] pricing muslin


  Can anyone tell me if purchasing a 15 yard bolt of muslin for $69 is a good deal?  It's for theatrical purposes, and we may need a total of 100 plus yards, fairly lightweight transparent muslin.

  Any help on sourcing appreciated.

  angela
  +++++
  Angela F. Lazear
  Cabbage Rose Costumes 
  www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com/>
  Theatrical Costume Design

  "Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none: 
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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] COTTON MUSLIN FABRICS WHOLESALE
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I did a google search and this is one that came up. 
Looks promising, I'm bookmarking it for future
investigation.

http://www.magnafabrics.com/category/536.htm

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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> Can anyone tell me if purchasing a 15 yard bolt of muslin for $69 is a
good
> deal?  It's for theatrical purposes, and we may need a total of 100 plus
> yards, fairly lightweight transparent muslin.

Lightweight and transparent sounds like actual muslin to me rather than
calico which is what is usually called muslin in the US. That may mean the
price is better than it appears;)

And then there is this muslin for use in the theatre:
http://setshop.com/product_info.php?products_id=130

And then I found this:
http://www.fishmansfabrics.com/mus_ltwgt.htm
Contents:70% polyester,30% cotton
Description: lightweight,semi-sheer


So it may be helpful for a bit more description in terms of what the fabric
is for.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pricing muslin
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On Wednesday 17 May 2006 4:44 pm, Angela F Lazear wrote:
> Can anyone tell me if purchasing a 15 yard bolt of muslin for $69 is a good
> deal?  It's for theatrical purposes, and we may need a total of 100 plus
> yards, fairly lightweight transparent muslin.

I assume $69 is US $69?

If so, it's a ripoff.  I've usually seen muslin go for $2.50-$3.50 around here 
(SE Pennsylvania) at the most.  $69 for 15 yards is about $4.60.  



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Odd, I have always called muslin, muslin and calico was a floral print.
Learn something new every day.
De

-----Original Message-----
Lightweight and transparent sounds like actual muslin to me rather than
calico which is what is usually called muslin in the US.


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From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pricing muslin
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 15:29:55 -0700
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It is the extra wide kind, at 108".  How much does that affect pricing? 
Sorry, I should know this stuff, but you are all so generous with your time 
and info.

Thank you!

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pricing muslin


>
> In a message dated 5/17/2006 4:46:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> angelalazear@sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> 15 yard  bolt of muslin for $69 is a good deal?
>
>
> That is more than $4 a yard, and doesn't sound like a good deal to me,
> unless it is the extra wide kind (60" or 90").  I think you should be able 
> to find
> 45" for $2 a yard or so.:
>
> Just checked--Joann on-line has both bleached and unbleached, 44-45" wide,
> 50 yard bolts for $98.99:
>
>
> _http://www.joannfabrics.com/search/search_results.jhtml;$sessionid$IZE5QWQAAB
> OVMP4SY5NBJAR50LD3OEPO?CATID=3&keywords=muslin&_requestid=86389_
> (http://www.joannfabrics.com/search/search_results.jhtml;$sessionid$IZE5QWQAABOVMP4SY5NBJAR
> 50LD3OEPO?CATID=3&keywords=muslin&_requestid=86389)
>
> Hancock's on-line price is $2.49/yd.
>
> Ann Wass
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pricing muslin
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On Wednesday 17 May 2006 6:29 pm, Cabbage Rose Costumes wrote:
> It is the extra wide kind, at 108".  How much does that affect pricing?
> Sorry, I should know this stuff, but you are all so generous with your time
> and info.

If it's 108", that makes more sense, since you're getting so much more than, 
say, the muslin at my local Jo-Ann's, which averages 45" wide.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
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	<001001c67a0b$87bbd260$985083d1@rmitchellras>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pricing muslin
Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 22:34:37 -0700
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It's for draping the stage. Ceiling to floor and in layers.  Should also be 
sheer, as we'll be projecting light through it in addition to onto it. 
Theatrical sheers at that width are $89.99 according to one website passed 
along, so maybe it's not so bad a price for the width.

We'll need a LOT so it probably needs to be the wider variety, or we'll be 
sewing 100's of yards together.

angela

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pricing muslin


> What is the theatrical use you envision for this muslin?
> Most muslin for general theater use can be found for about $1 a yard if 
> you
> shop around.  If you are needing it for flats(scene) of unusual
> width(72"/109"), the price you mention may not be too bad. For misc. 
> costume
> use, you can find it for a much cheaper price!!
> Kathleen
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Angela F Lazear" <angelalazear@sbcglobal.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 4:44 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] pricing muslin
>
>
> Can anyone tell me if purchasing a 15 yard bolt of muslin for $69 is a 
> good
> deal?  It's for theatrical purposes, and we may need a total of 100 plus
> yards, fairly lightweight transparent muslin.
>
> Any help on sourcing appreciated.
>
> angela
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes
> www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
> Theatrical Costume Design
>
> "Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
> be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
> and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
> be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
> W. Shakespeare
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Where are you? If you are in the New York/ New Jersey area you can get
muslin for about .99 - 2.00 a yard at Joannes, depending on the width. Less
if you have a coupon. Unless you are looking for a really wide width that
sounds like a LOT of money.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Angela F Lazear
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 4:44 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] pricing muslin


Can anyone tell me if purchasing a 15 yard bolt of muslin for $69 is a good
deal?  It's for theatrical purposes, and we may need a total of 100 plus
yards, fairly lightweight transparent muslin.

Any help on sourcing appreciated.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPGECPGKAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pricing muslin
Date: Thu, 18 May 2006 17:41:45 +1000
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Status: RO

It's a language evolution thing around the beginning of the 19th century 
Calico and Muslin were names for two different varieties of the expensive 
light weight cottons which were popular in Regency fashions (OK, I know 
Regency is an inaccurate term for the whole period of light weight cottons 
and high waists but it's terminology that people understand), then the names 
were applied to something different. Cheap poor quality cotton became known 
as Calico in the UK, Australia and New Zealand (and possibly elsewhere too 
though these are the places I know of) in the US (and presumably Canada) the 
same fabric was called Muslin. In the US and Canada (?) calico became the 
name for a certain style of print, in the UK, Australia and New Zealand 
Muslin still means a light weight cotton (though they aren't expensive any 
more)
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 12:15 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] pricing muslin


> Odd, I have always called muslin, muslin and calico was a floral print.
> Learn something new every day.
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Lightweight and transparent sounds like actual muslin to me rather than
> calico which is what is usually called muslin in the US.

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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pricing muslin
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Status: RO

I get my muslins wholesale from New England Quilt Supply.  They carry
90" cotton 200 count sheeting ($3-4 a yard?), and I am sure they carry
wide muslins but I've never ordered wide muslin from them (their
website is under construction so particular fabrics are not listed).
I get my 45" wide muslin (Springmaid) there for $1.55 a yard with
posatge.  Perhaps there is a more local-to-you wholesale quilting
supplier.

At that width $69 seems ok.

I did a google search for wholesale muslin and came up with this:

http://www.magnafabrics.com/category/536.htm

Katy

On 5/17/06, Angela F Lazear <angelalazear@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Can anyone tell me if purchasing a 15 yard bolt of muslin for $69 is a good deal?  It's for theatrical purposes, and we may need a total of 100 plus yards, fairly lightweight transparent muslin.
>
> Any help on sourcing appreciated.
>
> angela
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes
> www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
> Theatrical Costume Design
>
> "Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
> be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
> and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
> be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
> W. Shakespeare
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dvd codes
Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 16:05:26 +1000
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>
> Yes!
>
> Mine has 4 more switches left.
>
> Isn't this all bogus! Just why can't we watch what we want????

Because it means they can cut down competition and therefore make more 
profit. And why should they care about their customers? :-P
Elizabeth 

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just not sure what, exactly. 

I am finally getting around to webbing my Bella Nani documentation. While doing so, several photos I have that didn't make it into the competition paper were being prepped for uploading when it hit me: the pattern on those sleeves were finally familiar. 

I had recently flipped through several digitised lacemaking and embroidery pattern books. In particular, one German (dated 1527), one Venezia(dated 1561). I noted at the time the repeating knotwork motif that occurs. I have uploaded all these images onto a page: http://outoftheattic.homeip.net/Sleeve_Theory.html Please pardon the margin issues, it's rather late. 

For whatever reason, 2+2 suddenly added to 4: Veronese was possibly using those pattern books as embellishment inspiration. Some were so close that I could practically say with confidence that was the actual pattern used. I compared the other two with the same sleeve style, and sure enough, they too match with stunning familiarity.

I thought perhaps that Veronese had designed some pattern books. It seemed logical, he has a tendancy toward strong architectural environments in his paintings. Upon a very cursory search of the net, there is no known connection between Paolo Caliari and embroidery designs. But... I did find out that his younger brother, Benedetto was the one who tended toward the grandiose architecture in the backgrounds. His sons, Carlo (or Carletto) and Gabriele, along with Benedetto, were all occupied with finishing Paolo's paintings after his death.

I have to wonder if these paintings were not done entirely by Paolo himself, but his brother in particular had a hand in designing them, adding into them a geometric, architectural element by using embroidery pattern books? Benedetto in his own right has frescoes attributed to him at Villa Cornaro, and Villa Gradenigo, and shares attribution with Paolo for San Sebastiano, which accounts for each of these common sources. Having taken a look at Carlo and Benedetto's works, there are few differences in style and composition. Maybe this is what accounts for the relative novelty of these paintings?

Kathy
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
 
Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131




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Further note on Biz: You can place your project in Biz for as long as you would like. Just swish it gently every so often and change out the water for a fresh solution when it changes color. It can literally soak for a few days without hurting the fabric!

Megh E.



On Wed, 17 May 2006 12:02 , h-costume-request@indra.com sent:

>
>Message: 1
>Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 20:05:29 -0600
>From: "Sue Clemenger" mooncat@in-tch.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Disaster!
>To: "Historical Costume" h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: bebfa6d8@pavilion>
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>
> .....................There's a fairly common laundry treatment called "Biz"
>that you dissolve in hot water and use to soak your items.  I put my poor
>coif through two separate soaks, and a good wash, and it's almost 100% clear
>of the pink stain.......................
>Good luck!
>--Sue
>



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Onto Something
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Yep, that sleeve definitely seems to match the bottom second image on the 
last row from the patternbooks!  But, are you certain that the sleeve is 
invented?  Perhaps the lady's dressmaker is the one with the patternbook.

-E House


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Good! I'm glad it wasn't some bizarre waking dream I was having! Glas someone else sees it too! :-)

There is much debate as to the origins of "Bella Nani" in particular. 

Some say it is Caliari's wife. This is possible, since she had posed for several of his allegorical paintings and the face matches. He was married very close to the date of this painting, so again, there is a match. All circumstantial, however.
Other say that is is one of the Nani family members. There is some kind of relationship between the Nanis and Paolo, but no one can lay a finger on which one it is, or when exactly the family had contact with him. 
There is another theory out there that this woman is completely imaginary: the idealised woman; the renaissance pin up girl, if you wish. Elementally all the virtues of the ideal wife is there. Men would commission paintings like this for their private chambers, not unlike the calendar girls often found in husbands' garages. 
I personally think it's a little bit of the first and third. I have done a lot of studying and reading about his works, and have come to find a consistency in his images. He will tend to add completely fantastic, outrageous, over the top jewellry and costuming to the people who are not likely to be real persons, or those real persons representing a mythological persona. In short, I think he idealised his own wife. The huge pauldrons were the major giveaway - I can't find anything else like them anywhere, at any time in history - short of one pair of "real" pauldrons carved into a tomb stone. It's the same case with those sleeve styles. Only Veronese uses them, and all in the same period of time. There are no extant pieces of textile nor surviving painting by another unrelated painter that shows it as actually existing. For a while I had thought perhaps it was voided velvet or some variation on that theme, but the way the sleeve hang is just... off, for some reason.
I had thought perhaps that they were actually embroidered, or even overlayed with punto in aria lace, but he is detailed enough that he would have shown threads and stitches. I can't recall any surviving piece of velvet that was embroidered, either. That stuff is a pain to cover up decently with embroidery  silk.

Kathy

 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
 
Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131
Yep, that sleeve definitely seems to match the bottom second image on the 
last row from the patternbooks!  But, are you certain that the sleeve is 
invented?  Perhaps the lady's dressmaker is the one with the patternbook.





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Hi all. Have recieved nothing from this list since yesterday (Friday)
morning. Everything ok?

Arlys
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
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You came through just fine, Arlys.  At least, on my end.
I think it's just really quiet....
--Sue, checking email before heading out to the gardens.....
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 8:10 AM
Subject: [h-cost] hello out there??


> Hi all. Have recieved nothing from this list since yesterday (Friday)
> morning. Everything ok?
> 
> Arlys
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Thanks, Sue. :-)

Feel like discussing latest projects?

Arlys

On Sat, 20 May 2006 08:48:46 -0600 "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
writes:
> You came through just fine, Arlys.  At least, on my end.
> I think it's just really quiet....
> --Sue, checking email before heading out to the gardens.....
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 8:10 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] hello out there??
> 
> 
> > Hi all. Have recieved nothing from this list since yesterday 
> (Friday)
> > morning. Everything ok?
> > 
> > Arlys
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
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On Saturday 20 May 2006 10:48 am, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> You came through just fine, Arlys.  At least, on my end.
> I think it's just really quiet....

Same here.  I'm finding H-costume quiet at the moment, too.  It's not 
surprising--it usually slows down a lot during the summer, especially during 
sunny weekends.

Somebody say something!  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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Subject: [h-cost] My latest gig!
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Status: RO

I do, I do!  The Phoenix Art Museum just called me and asked me to do costumes in conjunction with the traveling exhibit from the Rijksmuseum from Amsterdam!  Wheeeee!   I am soooo exited.  I hope like heck they ask me to do the "Kitchen Maid"  by Vermeer.  They even said there would be funds since they realized it could be very expensive!!

http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/<http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/>

Sg (who can hardly believe it herself, and hopes she doesn't jinx anything by announcing it!)


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Cynthia J Ley<mailto:cley@juno.com> 
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
  Feel like discussing latest projects?

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Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 14:34:37 -0400
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!
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Quoting Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>:

> I do, I do!  The Phoenix Art Museum just called me and asked me to do 
> costumes in conjunction with the traveling exhibit from the 
> Rijksmuseum from Amsterdam!  Wheeeee!   I am soooo exited.  I hope 
> like heck they ask me to do the "Kitchen Maid"  by Vermeer.  They 
> even said there would be funds since they realized it could be very 
> expens1ive!!

WooHoo! You go, Girl!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!
Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 19:09:53 +0000
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Congratulations! You go and have loads of fun!!!
Elena/Gia

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com> 

> I do, I do! The Phoenix Art Museum just called me and asked me to do costumes 
> in conjunction with the traveling exhibit from the Rijksmuseum from Amsterdam! 
> Wheeeee! I am soooo exited. I hope like heck they ask me to do the "Kitchen 
> Maid" by Vermeer. They even said there would be funds since they realized it 
> could be very expensive!! 
> 
> http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/> etails/833/> 
> 
> Sg (who can hardly believe it herself, and hopes she doesn't jinx anything by 
> announcing it!) 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Cynthia J Ley 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there?? 
> Feel like discussing latest projects? 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>On Saturday 20 May 2006 10:48 am, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>  
>
>>You came through just fine, Arlys.  At least, on my end.
>>I think it's just really quiet....
>>    
>>
>
>Same here.  I'm finding H-costume quiet at the moment, too.  It's not 
>surprising--it usually slows down a lot during the summer, especially during 
>sunny weekends.
>
>Somebody say something!  :-)
>
>
>  
>
Yeah, you know how hard it is to convince someone--anyone--to pin a hem 
for you when the weather is this good? :P

Marie
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
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On Saturday 20 May 2006 3:39 pm, Marie Schnoor wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> >On Saturday 20 May 2006 10:48 am, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> >>You came through just fine, Arlys.  At least, on my end.
> >>I think it's just really quiet....
> >
> >Same here.  I'm finding H-costume quiet at the moment, too.  It's not
> >surprising--it usually slows down a lot during the summer, especially
> > during sunny weekends.
> >
> >Somebody say something!  :-)
>
> Yeah, you know how hard it is to convince someone--anyone--to pin a hem
> for you when the weather is this good? :P

No, but I can just imagine.  Heck, I have a hard time working up the interest 
to do my *own* hemming when the weather is this good.  :-)


-- 
Cathy "heading to a cookout tonight"  Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!
Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 15:31:56 -0400
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On Saturday 20 May 2006 2:05 pm, Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> I do, I do!  The Phoenix Art Museum just called me and asked me to do
> costumes in conjunction with the traveling exhibit from the Rijksmuseum
> from Amsterdam!  Wheeeee!   I am soooo exited.  I hope like heck they ask
> me to do the "Kitchen Maid"  by Vermeer.  They even said there would be
> funds since they realized it could be very expensive!!
>
> http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/<http://www.codart.nl/exhibiti
>ons/details/833/>

Congratulations!  You will post URLs to pictures of your work when it's done, 
right?  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060520.081654.3968.0.Cley@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 15:06:09 -0600
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Status: RO

Sure! Always! <giggle>
I've got a variety of things going at the moment, some of them peripherally
(sp?) associated with historical costuming, in that they're fiber-related.
I'm preparing wool and yarns at the moment (getting them ready for a weekend
natural dyeing workshop next weekend), and some of that will become
historical clothing and accessories.  I've got myself about a pound of
lovely, loosely-plied unmercerized (natural-colored) cotton, half of which
is going to get indigo'd but *good,* with the idea of making Mamluke
stockings from it.  I have about three pounds of a 2-ply fingering-weight
wool that has been mordanted, and which I'll dye with indigo, cochineal, and
a blend (not sure if I want purple or green ;o).  3 separate batches, that
yarn, and it will make different pairs of 16th century stockings
(English/Irish).
I'm also processing a couple of raw fleeces, with the aim of spinning it
myself and making woven fabric from it for a couple of earlier-SCA period
outfits.  One of the fleeces is a Romney, which is a more modern breed of
sheep, but I lucked out *hugely* with it, and it's such a nice fleece, it
just *needs* to be made into a garment.  I have something like 6? 7? pounds
of it, and if my spinning can do it justice, it'll become a tunic done in a
broken lozenge twill.
I'm also making a few new sets of (Western Norse/Danish, 10th c.) garb, all
in linen and wool.  Don't have the time to handsew them entirely, though.
I've got a deadline on those, because the single largest regional event for
my SCA area is coming up in early June.
Oh, and I *am* working on a handsewn 12th century (Norman) outfit, using
ideas I got from reading Robin's article of a few years ago.....
What's going on in your neck of the costuming world?
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??


> Thanks, Sue. :-)
>
> Feel like discussing latest projects?
>
> Arlys
>
> On Sat, 20 May 2006 08:48:46 -0600 "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> writes:
> > You came through just fine, Arlys.  At least, on my end.
> > I think it's just really quiet....
> > --Sue, checking email before heading out to the gardens.....
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 8:10 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] hello out there??
> >
> >
> > > Hi all. Have recieved nothing from this list since yesterday
> > (Friday)
> > > morning. Everything ok?
> > >
> > > Arlys
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!
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Awesome, Saragrace! That just totally rocks! ;o)
--sue, channeling the sea turtle in "Finding Nemo" for some reason....

----- Original Message -----
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] My latest gig!


> I do, I do!  The Phoenix Art Museum just called me and asked me to do
costumes in conjunction with the traveling exhibit from the Rijksmuseum from
Amsterdam!  Wheeeee!   I am soooo exited.  I hope like heck they ask me to
do the "Kitchen Maid"  by Vermeer.  They even said there would be funds
since they realized it could be very expensive!!
>
>
http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/<http://www.codart.nl/exhibitio
ns/details/833/>
>
> Sg (who can hardly believe it herself, and hopes she doesn't jinx anything
by announcing it!)
>
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Cynthia J Ley<mailto:cley@juno.com>
>   Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
>   Feel like discussing latest projects?


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
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Yeah.  I'm bribing a friend with locally-famous fried chicken to help me
with mine next week.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Marie Schnoor" <mcschnoor@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??


> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>
> >On Saturday 20 May 2006 10:48 am, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> >
> >
> >>You came through just fine, Arlys.  At least, on my end.
> >>I think it's just really quiet....
> >>
> >>
> >
> >Same here.  I'm finding H-costume quiet at the moment, too.  It's not
> >surprising--it usually slows down a lot during the summer, especially
during
> >sunny weekends.
> >
> >Somebody say something!  :-)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Yeah, you know how hard it is to convince someone--anyone--to pin a hem
> for you when the weather is this good? :P
>
> Marie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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On Sat, 20 May 2006 15:06:09 -0600 "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
writes:
> Sure! Always! <giggle>
> I've got a variety of things going at the moment, some of them 
> peripherally
> (sp?) associated with historical costuming, in that they're 
> fiber-related.
> I'm preparing wool and yarns at the moment (getting them ready for a 
> weekend
> natural dyeing workshop next weekend), and some of that will become
> historical clothing and accessories.  I've got myself about a pound 
> What's going on in your neck of the costuming world?
> --Sue

Oh gosh, nothing nearly as exciting as what you're doing! :-) Mamluk,
huh? I have a friend who needs to talk to you!

My project right now involves revamping a blackwork class that I'll be
teaching in August--I am digging out docs and pictures, and making
another sampler to go with the class. I don't costume at all, but enjoy
the discussions and take classes when I can so I can understand it
better--I just don't have time for it, as music and embroidery keep me
very busy! ;)

I'm also working on improving my SCA persona kit. From a costuming end, a
friend is making me a GFD in the next month or so. Yay!

Arlys


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Bjarne, hope all heals well with your knee. Are you going to be doing
physical therapy after?

Arlys
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Wow, Saragrace! Just WOW!!!

We look forward to hearing more about this as it progresses and seeing
pics!

Arlys 

> > I do, I do!  The Phoenix Art Museum just called me and asked me to 
> do
> costumes in conjunction with the traveling exhibit from the 
> Rijksmuseum from
> Amsterdam!  Wheeeee!   I am soooo exited.  I hope like heck they ask 
> me to
> do the "Kitchen Maid"  by Vermeer.  They even said there would be 
> funds
> since they realized it could be very expensive!!
> >
> >
>
http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/<http://www.codart.nl/exhibi
tio
> ns/details/833/>
> >
> > Sg (who can hardly believe it herself, and hopes she doesn't jinx 
> anything
> by announcing it!)
> >
> >
> >   ----- Original Message -----
> >   From: Cynthia J Ley<mailto:cley@juno.com>
> >   Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
> >   Feel like discussing latest projects?
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!
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Great!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On May 20, 2006, at 2:34 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> Quoting Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>:
>
>> I do, I do!  The Phoenix Art Museum just called me and asked me to do 
>> costumes in conjunction with the traveling exhibit from the 
>> Rijksmuseum from Amsterdam!  Wheeeee!   I am soooo exited.  I hope 
>> like heck they ask me to do the "Kitchen Maid"  by Vermeer.  They 
>> even said there would be funds since they realized it could be very 
>> expens1ive!!
>
> WooHoo! You go, Girl!
>
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 17:55:04 -0400
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!
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Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>:

> Hi,
> How nice for you, that is lovely. Please keep us updated with this!
>
> Bjarne who is not well at the moment. Had a knee operation yesterday, 
> and have many pains today, but it will be fine again soon.

Hope you are indeed up and around soon!  I went through arthroscopic
surgery with my husband and knee replacements with my mother- and
father-in-law.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!
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Saragrace,

This is such wonderful news! Congrads! Ask if the museum cares if you make 
an online dress diary.  It gives the museum and you more publicity.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!
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Hi,
How nice for you, that is lovely. Please keep us updated with this!

Bjarne who is not well at the moment. Had a knee operation yesterday, and 
have many pains today, but it will be fine again soon.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 8:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] My latest gig!


I do, I do!  The Phoenix Art Museum just called me and asked me to do 
costumes in conjunction with the traveling exhibit from the Rijksmuseum from 
Amsterdam!  Wheeeee!   I am soooo exited.  I hope like heck they ask me to 
do the "Kitchen Maid"  by Vermeer.  They even said there would be funds 
since they realized it could be very expensive!!

http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/<http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/>

Sg (who can hardly believe it herself, and hopes she doesn't jinx anything 
by announcing it!)


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Cynthia J Ley<mailto:cley@juno.com>
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
  Feel like discussing latest projects?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there and what's on your dressform
Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 21:04:27 -0400
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Status: RO

I saw earlier this week the thread "What's on your dressform" and didn't 
have time to answer. A lot has been on my dressforms during the past week. I 
have been photographing the fashion collection at Virginia Commonwealth 
University. I start teaching the fashion history class Monday at the 
university.   I will be using some of the sturdier pieces in the classroom. 
The frial pieces are photographed to show the students projected from my 
laptop via a motorized screen.

Some of the collection's costumes are misdated.  Each archive box is like 
opening Christmas packages... you never know what you will find inside.  A 
lot of fun!  I found a bodice in a box named 1900.  The bodice is clearly 
not from 1900, as were several other items in the box. I think it might be 
date from 1840s or 1860s.  My class time frame is from 1860-1990.  If this 
piece is from 1860, I can use these photos in my class.

Would you all please look at some photgraphs of the bodice and let me know 
what time frame you think it is from.  The center front and center back have 
a point at the waist.

Front view: ( I didn't pad out the waistline curve to show the full point)
www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010112.jpg

Flat view of the inside of bodice:
www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010111.jpg

Flat view of the back of bodice:
www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010107.jpg

Thank you for your help.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com 

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On Tuesday 16 May 2006 9:58 am, G.Vinje wrote:
> I just heard from the uni shop. The woman I was in touch with had checked
> with the museum and the price should be about the same. Get in touch with
> either ;
> Kirsti.Kjerkreit@akademika.no
> Or ;
> hfavd@akademika.no

Thanks for the information.  I'm presently ordering a book from Finland and 
have buying plans for several others right now, but I may buy the Oseberg 
book yet!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!
Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 15:30:03 -0400
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On Saturday 20 May 2006 2:17 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> How nice for you, that is lovely. Please keep us updated with this!
>
> Bjarne who is not well at the moment. Had a knee operation yesterday, and
> have many pains today, but it will be fine again soon.

Sorry to hear about your knee, Bjarne.  Get better soon!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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Where will your class be taught?
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cynthia J Ley
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 2:24 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??




On Sat, 20 May 2006 15:06:09 -0600 "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
writes:
> Sure! Always! <giggle>
> I've got a variety of things going at the moment, some of them
> peripherally
> (sp?) associated with historical costuming, in that they're 
> fiber-related.
> I'm preparing wool and yarns at the moment (getting them ready for a 
> weekend
> natural dyeing workshop next weekend), and some of that will become
> historical clothing and accessories.  I've got myself about a pound 
> What's going on in your neck of the costuming world?
> --Sue

Oh gosh, nothing nearly as exciting as what you're doing! :-) Mamluk, huh? I
have a friend who needs to talk to you!

My project right now involves revamping a blackwork class that I'll be
teaching in August--I am digging out docs and pictures, and making another
sampler to go with the class. I don't costume at all, but enjoy the
discussions and take classes when I can so I can understand it better--I
just don't have time for it, as music and embroidery keep me very busy! ;)

I'm also working on improving my SCA persona kit. From a costuming end, a
friend is making me a GFD in the next month or so. Yay!

Arlys


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>>> ......It's not surprising--it usually slows down a lot during the 
>>> summer, especially during sunny weekends.
>>>
>>> Somebody say something!  :-)
>>
>> Yeah, you know how hard it is to convince someone--anyone--to pin a 
>> hem for you when the weather is this good? :P
>
> No, but I can just imagine.  Heck, I have a hard time working up the 
> interest to do my *own* hemming when the weather is this good.  :-)
>

No problem!   Just do what we do here in Canberra, and take the 
hemming/sewing outdoors!   Find a flat place/patio under a nice tree 
that's still colorful, but hasn't yet dropped those gorgeous leaves, 
especially if there are a few late-blooming flowers nearby, and you 
can't ask for better.   My roses are still blooming like crazy, even 
after the few nights of light frost we've had recently; although my 
birches are already looking a little winter-forlorn, having dropped 
just about all their leaves.  Sadly, I had to prune a lot of 
already-budding branches off of my winter-blooming grevillea shrub this 
past week.

I wish I could follow my own advice today, but I'm stuck indoors with a 
sinus infection (possibly the flu as well).  Maybe next week -- I have 
two 16C Italian dresses needing hems.  Though we really need rain, I'll 
take warm, gentle sunshine if that's all that's offered!  (And it's all 
that's been offered for over a week now!)

Weather like this is a good argument for having truly portable sewing 
kits and beautiful garden pavilions.

Beth, ex-pat New Jerseyan, now settled in Canberra, Australia

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The class is for my Kingdom's Royal University, and it will be taught at
a local (Portland area, OR) event in August. I've taught it before, but
there's always stuff to refine.

Arlys

On Sat, 20 May 2006 20:02:20 -0700 "Sharon at Collierfam.com"
<sharon@collierfam.com> writes:
> Where will your class be taught?
> Sharon

>> My big project right now involves revamping a blackwork class that
I'll 
>> be teaching in August--I am digging out docs and pictures, and making 
>> another sampler to go with the class. 

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Well.....

Costume Con 24 starts in less than a week - my Historical competition 
entry got done tonight, I'm still building my Fashion Show costume, 
I'm running the Fashion Show, so I need to finish writing the script 
and find music, I'm the outgoing Corresponding Secretary, so I need 
to put all my files on disc to hand over to the next one, and I'm 
giving at least one panel and probably more.  Plus judging the 
Fantasy and SF competition.  DH is finishing his Fashion Show 
costume, plus he has several panels to give (one of which requires a 
DVD compilation), is one of the con co-chairs, and is MC of the F/SF 
competition.

I'll be GLAD when Memorial Day is over and I can sleep for a week!!

Sandy

At 04:29 PM 5/20/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 15:06:09 -0600
>From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
>
>I've got a variety of things going at the moment, some of them peripherally
>(sp?) associated with historical costuming, in that they're fiber-related.
>
>What's going on in your neck of the costuming world?
>--Sue

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060520.142649.3164.2.Cley@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig! bjarnes knee
Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 10:40:29 +0200
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Status: RO

Hi,
Thanks for your concerns. It was an operation of the meniscus. I am going 
trough well, yesterday was much worse than today, but i limb a lot. There 
wont be any therapy after, because i have full movemement with the knee all 
ready. It just have to heal and the threads are moved away in 10 days by my 
doctor. Then there will be not so much time again to embroider, because i am 
off to my job then. I have ben sick from my job for 3 months, just because i 
had to waite for this operation.
The 3 months, gave me time to finish the right side of the waistcoat 
embroidery. I am making buttons now, and i plan to set up the left side to 
my embroidery frame next week.
The waistcoat is here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/2006suit.htm
Thanks for your concerns.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 11:25 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!


> Bjarne, hope all heals well with your knee. Are you going to be doing
> physical therapy after?
>
> Arlys
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there and what's on your dressform
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Hi Penny,
I think it's from a little later than 1860, and buttons in the front. 
That's just my opinion, before coffee though...I'll see what I can find.

Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there and what's on your dressform


>I saw earlier this week the thread "What's on your dressform" and didn't 
>have time to answer. A lot has been on my dressforms during the past week. 
>I have been photographing the fashion collection at Virginia Commonwealth 
>University. I start teaching the fashion history class Monday at the 
>university.   I will be using some of the sturdier pieces in the classroom. 
>The frial pieces are photographed to show the students projected from my 
>laptop via a motorized screen.
>
> Some of the collection's costumes are misdated.  Each archive box is like 
> opening Christmas packages... you never know what you will find inside.  A 
> lot of fun!  I found a bodice in a box named 1900.  The bodice is clearly 
> not from 1900, as were several other items in the box. I think it might be 
> date from 1840s or 1860s.  My class time frame is from 1860-1990.  If this 
> piece is from 1860, I can use these photos in my class.
>
> Would you all please look at some photgraphs of the bodice and let me know 
> what time frame you think it is from.  The center front and center back 
> have a point at the waist.
>
> Front view: ( I didn't pad out the waistline curve to show the full point)
> www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010112.jpg
>
> Flat view of the inside of bodice:
> www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010111.jpg
>
> Flat view of the back of bodice:
> www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010107.jpg
>
> Thank you for your help.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

Penny, your project and class opportunity sound like fun.

Re the dating, I have a suspicion that the boxes being misdated is probably
because the person labeling the tags simply did not understand the
difference between Nineteenth Century and 1900s.  I have dealt with that
issue a lot.  In our school tours last week for fifth graders I hammered the
point as part of my speil.

I once had a customer have me do her up in a "Nineteenth C." ball gown for a
dancing party.  When she returned it, she explained to me that it was
lovely, but not the right period.  I then had the conversation with her
about the Ages!!  All news to her.
Sigh
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there and what's on your dressform


> I saw earlier this week the thread "What's on your dressform" and didn't
> have time to answer. A lot has been on my dressforms during the past week.
I
> have been photographing the fashion collection at Virginia Commonwealth
> University. I start teaching the fashion history class Monday at the
> university.   I will be using some of the sturdier pieces in the
classroom.
> The frial pieces are photographed to show the students projected from my
> laptop via a motorized screen.
>
> Some of the collection's costumes are misdated.  Each archive box is like
> opening Christmas packages... you never know what you will find inside.  A
> lot of fun!  I found a bodice in a box named 1900.  The bodice is clearly
> not from 1900, as were several other items in the box. I think it might be
> date from 1840s or 1860s.  My class time frame is from 1860-1990.  If this
> piece is from 1860, I can use these photos in my class.
>
> Would you all please look at some photgraphs of the bodice and let me know
> what time frame you think it is from.  The center front and center back
have
> a point at the waist.
>
> Front view: ( I didn't pad out the waistline curve to show the full point)
> www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010112.jpg
>
> Flat view of the inside of bodice:
> www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010111.jpg
>
> Flat view of the back of bodice:
> www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010107.jpg
>
> Thank you for your help.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig! bjarnes knee
Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 08:56:23 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Bjarne,

Take it easy with your knee.  Don't rush the healing process.  A little 
extra time spent recovering now, will make you very happy with the 
results later.  Too many people rush their recovery time and do not get 
the full benefits of the surgery.

Your embroidery is gorgeous!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On May 21, 2006, at 4:40 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> Thanks for your concerns. It was an operation of the meniscus. I am 
> going trough well, yesterday was much worse than today, but i limb a 
> lot. There wont be any therapy after, because i have full movemement 
> with the knee all ready. It just have to heal and the threads are 
> moved away in 10 days by my doctor. Then there will be not so much 
> time again to embroider, because i am off to my job then. I have ben 
> sick from my job for 3 months, just because i had to waite for this 
> operation.
> The 3 months, gave me time to finish the right side of the waistcoat 
> embroidery. I am making buttons now, and i plan to set up the left 
> side to my embroidery frame next week.
> The waistcoat is here:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/2006suit.htm
> Thanks for your concerns.
>
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 11:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!
>
>
>> Bjarne, hope all heals well with your knee. Are you going to be doing
>> physical therapy after?
>>
>> Arlys
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there and what's on your dressform
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 01:07:20 +1200
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> > Some of the collection's costumes are misdated.  Each archive box is
like
> > opening Christmas packages... you never know what you will find inside.
A
> > lot of fun!  I found a bodice in a box named 1900.  The bodice is
clearly
> > not from 1900, as were several other items in the box. I think it might
be
> > date from 1840s or 1860s.  My class time frame is from 1860-1990.  If
this
> > piece is from 1860, I can use these photos in my class.

It looks like 1879-1882 with the very deep point yet cut high on the hips.
The bottom of the bodice sits below the waist of the bodice too. The half
length sleeves and the way the bodice is lined also suggest this later date.
There are fish darts at the waist which is interesting.
The extra room at the back under the point suggests a bustle, so it could
even be a little later.
http://www.antique-lace.com/date2/2207/2207.htm
This is a similarly shaped bodice which buttons up the front as well. It
does havea  lot more trimming though.

> > Front view: ( I didn't pad out the waistline curve to show the full
point)
> > www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010112.jpg

I would suggest that this is the back, the bodice buttoning up the front.
The darts always go to the front if there is a mix of darts and seams. At
least for the 19thC;) I know there was a top someone was looking at from a
present day soap opera that had darts at the back and princess seams at the
front.

> > Flat view of the inside of bodice:
> > www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010111.jpg
> >
> > Flat view of the back of bodice:
> > www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010107.jpg

As per above, this would be the front. It looks like the sleeves curve
slightly towards the buttoned side.

A very sweet simple bodice. Is there any evidence of any trim being removed?
There ought to be something at the sleeve openings anyway.

Michaela de Bruce
going mad beading and sequining a 16thC headdress.
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there and what's on your dressform
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Status: RO

Dear penny,

This bodice seems to be a fairly typical 1880's bodice.  The buttons
would be in the front.  One sees this type of button quite often.  The
3/4 sleeves are common in the 80's.  One good way to tell 1860/70's
from 1880/90's is the placement of the shoulder seam.  in the 80/90s
the shoulder seam is higher creating a narrower shoulder and more
vertical look.  In the 60/70's the shoulder line is dropped (to
varying degrees) creating a wider, more curved, softer silhouette.

I have scanned pictures from Harper's Bazar 1883 and 1884:

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/1884_nov29_hb_b.jpg
http://www.vintagevictorian.com/1883_sep22_hb.jpg

Didn't have time to find a low cut bodice but these show the general
80's shape pretty well, pointed waist, front buttons covered by trim,
3/4 sleeves.  The fact that your bodice does not extend below the
waist tells me it was most likely from a year when there was more
fullness in the skirt just below the waist, a bigger bustle.  Rather
than from when the bustle was very narrow (like 1880) and the bodice
often extended well below the waist.

I have a page up for 1880's evening dress, but no day dress yet. it's
brand new, no quite finished:

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1880e.html

Katy

On 5/20/06, Penny <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> I saw earlier this week the thread "What's on your dressform" and didn't
> have time to answer. A lot has been on my dressforms during the past week. I
> have been photographing the fashion collection at Virginia Commonwealth
> University. I start teaching the fashion history class Monday at the
> university.   I will be using some of the sturdier pieces in the classroom.
> The frial pieces are photographed to show the students projected from my
> laptop via a motorized screen.
>
> Some of the collection's costumes are misdated.  Each archive box is like
> opening Christmas packages... you never know what you will find inside.  A
> lot of fun!  I found a bodice in a box named 1900.  The bodice is clearly
> not from 1900, as were several other items in the box. I think it might be
> date from 1840s or 1860s.  My class time frame is from 1860-1990.  If this
> piece is from 1860, I can use these photos in my class.
>
> Would you all please look at some photgraphs of the bodice and let me know
> what time frame you think it is from.  The center front and center back have
> a point at the waist.
>
> Front view: ( I didn't pad out the waistline curve to show the full point)
> www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010112.jpg
>
> Flat view of the inside of bodice:
> www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010111.jpg
>
> Flat view of the back of bodice:
> www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010107.jpg
>
> Thank you for your help.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Very cool !! Congratulations.
  
  Any idea if the exhibit will be coming to Seattle or anywhere near it?
  
  Annette M
  

  
Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 11:05:41 -0700
From: "Saragrace Knauf" 
Subject: [h-cost] My latest gig!


I  do, I do! The Phoenix Art Museum just called me and asked me to do  costumes in conjunction with the traveling exhibit from the Rijksmuseum  from Amsterdam! Wheeeee! I am soooo exited. I hope like heck they ask  me to do the "Kitchen Maid" by Vermeer. They even said there would be  funds since they realized it could be very expensive!!

http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/

Sg (who can hardly believe it herself, and hopes she doesn't jinx anything by announcing it!)
  

		
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig! bjarnes knee
Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 12:30:37 -0400
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On Sunday 21 May 2006 4:40 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> Thanks for your concerns. It was an operation of the meniscus. I am going
> trough well, yesterday was much worse than today, but i limb a lot. There
> wont be any therapy after, because i have full movemement with the knee all
> ready. It just have to heal and the threads are moved away in 10 days by my
> doctor. Then there will be not so much time again to embroider, because i
> am off to my job then. I have ben sick from my job for 3 months, just
> because i had to waite for this operation.
> The 3 months, gave me time to finish the right side of the waistcoat
> embroidery. I am making buttons now, and i plan to set up the left side to
> my embroidery frame next week.

It looks absolutely stunning.  I can hardly wait to see the completed coat 
(and the rest of the suit?) 

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig! bjarnes knee
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan Data-Samtak" <pasovasz@aol.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2006 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig! bjarnes knee


Bjarne,

Take it easy with your knee.  Don't rush the healing process.  A little
extra time spent recovering now, will make you very happy with the
results later.  Too many people rush their recovery time and do not get
the full benefits of the surgery.

Your embroidery is gorgeous!

Susan

Hi Susan,
Many thanks, yes i promise i will take it easy. Ill ask my doctor when he 
takes out the threads, when i can start to work again.

Bjarne 


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2006 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig! bjarnes knee
> It looks absolutely stunning.  I can hardly wait to see the completed coat
> (and the rest of the suit?)
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
> --General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

Thanks, ill keep you updated with it, promise

Bjarne
 _______________________________________________
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
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Cynthia J Ley wrote:

>The class is for my Kingdom's Royal University, and it will be taught at
>a local (Portland area, OR) event in August. I've taught it before, but
>there's always stuff to refine.
>
>Arlys
>
>  
>
*Hears Portland and perks up* Oh? An Ithra in August? Do tell...

Marie :)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there and what's on your dressform
Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 08:35:32 -0400
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Penny, how is the bodice closed in the back, and how was the sleeve finished
at the bottom? The neckline differs for both '40's and '50's of the bodices
I have for these periods. Did it ever have a skirt fastened to the bodice?
My 1840's dress is one piece; the sleeve is puffed at the top and flares out
slightly from just above the elbow.  The neckline is at neck level and
fastens in the front with hooks and eyes.
  The three bodices I have from the next decade have a more oval neckline
that goes from shoulderbone to shoulderbone. They are plainly for a two
piece dress. Two were made for the same skirt; one is matching and the other
in coordinated contrast.  This ensemble also has a jacket that was made at
some time from a panel of the skirt. The sleeve is shaped more like the very
early1860s. At the time I found this set in a shop, the skirt had been
remodeled for about 1879/80.  After researching the styles of these periods,
I settled on 1855, based on the shapes total items and the 'extra fabric'
included.  With some fear and trepidation, I took the skirt apart and was
excited and relieved to discover that the skirt sham was the original and it
was clear that my proposed renovation was the right choice.  There were the
stitching lines that would support the two tiered skirt and the 'extra
fabric' was meant to be the 8" ruffle at the bottom!!
Sigh
Kathleen


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there and what's on your dressform


> I saw earlier this week the thread "What's on your dressform" and didn't
> have time to answer. A lot has been on my dressforms during the past week.
I
> have been photographing the fashion collection at Virginia Commonwealth
> University. I start teaching the fashion history class Monday at the
> university.   I will be using some of the sturdier pieces in the
classroom.
> The frial pieces are photographed to show the students projected from my
> laptop via a motorized screen.
>
> Some of the collection's costumes are misdated.  Each archive box is like
> opening Christmas packages... you never know what you will find inside.  A
> lot of fun!  I found a bodice in a box named 1900.  The bodice is clearly
> not from 1900, as were several other items in the box. I think it might be
> date from 1840s or 1860s.  My class time frame is from 1860-1990.  If this
> piece is from 1860, I can use these photos in my class.
>
> Would you all please look at some photgraphs of the bodice and let me know
> what time frame you think it is from.  The center front and center back
have
> a point at the waist.
>
> Front view: ( I didn't pad out the waistline curve to show the full point)
> www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010112.jpg
>
> Flat view of the inside of bodice:
> www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010111.jpg
>
> Flat view of the back of bodice:
> www.costumegallery.com/help/P1010107.jpg
>
> Thank you for your help.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!
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I couldn't think of not keeping you all up to date on the project....I will make a diary.   I am to get the list of artworks early next week....

Thanks for all your happy words,


Sg
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Saragrace Knauf<mailto:wickedfrau@msn.com> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 11:05 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] My latest gig!


  I do, I do!  The Phoenix Art Museum just called me and asked me to do costumes in conjunction with the traveling exhibit from the Rijksmuseum from Amsterdam!  Wheeeee!   I am soooo exited.  I hope like heck they ask me to do the "Kitchen Maid"  by Vermeer.  They even said there would be funds since they realized it could be very expensive!!

  http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/<http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/<http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/<http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/>>

  Sg (who can hardly believe it herself, and hopes she doesn't jinx anything by announcing it!)


    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Cynthia J Ley<mailto:cley@juno.com<mailto:cley@juno.com>> 
    Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
    Feel like discussing latest projects?

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Subject: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 00:15:03 -0400
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On Saturday 20 May 2006 5:06 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> Sure! Always! <giggle>
> I've got a variety of things going at the moment, some of them peripherally
> (sp?) associated with historical costuming, 

Wow, neat stuff, Sue!

Since nothing else is going on here, this may be a good time for people to 
talk about their current costume/textile-related projects.  

Let's see.  What am I working on now?  Ignoring the stuff that's gotten pushed 
so far down the list it's a misrepresentation to claim I'm working on it at 
the moment, we have:

*  A Viking apron dress of the same style as the reconstruction in the Danish 
National Museum (I forget the official name of the museum just now, sorry!)

*  A plain linen smock or two to wear with it and other period garb (none of 
my smocks are linen, and I'm trying to make my garb more properly historic.)

*  An ornamented shawl of a style found in Lithuanian digs dated to about the 
10th century.

*  Teaching myself nalbinding so that I can eventually make myself a properly 
period pair of socks.  My first project is a kind of floppy dome I'm trying 
to turn into a simple hat.

*  Remaking a classical Roman matron's tunic to be more period;

*  Making a stola (sleeveless overdress--*not* a shawl or stole, despite the 
name) to wear with the above.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 08:40:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Wedding clothes!
  
  I know the styles are from several different periods, but I'm about the only one that will actually be there that knows this.
  
  2 or 4 linen men's 'tunics' - rather modified from the leine as they are only for this one time
  
  1 - ionar/kilcommon jacket adaption - also for just this one time,  although I suspect he will really like it and want to wear it again  when I haul him to some SCA events :-D
  
  1 or 2 pair of "trousers"
  
  1 or 2 semi-heraldic tabards
  
  4 - linen chemises
  
  4 - underdresses
  
  2 - fitted overgowns with short sleeves and tippets
  
  1 - overdress/tabard thing (adapted from the gold brocade 15th c. florentine gown in braun and schneider)
  
  1 - sideless surcotte  - I almost bought a silver fox jacket at  the second hand store for trimming this one, but it was in such perfect  condition I knew I couldn't bring myself to cut it apart, and I really  want a shorter fur for this if I use one.
  
  I am having three of the underdresses (should really be GFD's) made from commercial patterns for a couple of reasons.
  
  1. my honor attendant really hasn't any use for a period dress
  
  2. my flower girl/usherette is going to grow out of hers before too long
  
  3. I haven't found anyone that gets the idea of the GFD enough to help  me with mine - nor have I been able to find a fabric that I like well  enough to do the extra work (really good lightweight wool is very  difficult to find around here, and I hate to order online sight unseen)
  
  4. I like the allegorical look for this and that will be easier to do  messing with a modern pattern style that I am more familiar with.
  
  Oh - and about a dozen 'silk' pennants in various colors taken from our different families' 'supposed' coat of arms. 
  
  And yes, I have help with all this sewing!
  
  Annette M


  




Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 00:15:03 -0400
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond 
Subject: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)

On Saturday 20 May 2006 5:06 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> Sure! Always! 
> I've got a variety of things going at the moment, some of them peripherally
> (sp?) associated with historical costuming, 

Wow, neat stuff, Sue!

Since nothing else is going on here, this may be a good time for people to 
talk about their current costume/textile-related projects.  

Let's see.  What am I working on now?  Ignoring the stuff that's gotten pushed 
so far down the list it's a misrepresentation to claim I'm working on it at 
the moment, we have:

*  A Viking apron dress of the same style as the reconstruction in the Danish 
National Museum (I forget the official name of the museum just now, sorry!)

*  A plain linen smock or two to wear with it and other period garb (none of 
my smocks are linen, and I'm trying to make my garb more properly historic.)

*  An ornamented shawl of a style found in Lithuanian digs dated to about the 
10th century.

*  Teaching myself nalbinding so that I can eventually make myself a properly 
period pair of socks.  My first project is a kind of floppy dome I'm trying 
to turn into a simple hat.

*  Remaking a classical Roman matron's tunic to be more period;

*  Making a stola (sleeveless overdress--*not* a shawl or stole, despite the 
name) to wear with the above.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond 

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)
  




		
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replied to privately.

On Sat, 20 May 2006 21:06:43 -0700 Marie Schnoor <mcschnoor@comcast.net>
writes:
> Cynthia J Ley wrote:
> 
> >The class is for my Kingdom's Royal University, and it will be 
> taught at
> >a local (Portland area, OR) event in August. I've taught it before, 
> but
> >there's always stuff to refine.
> >
> >Arlys
> >
> >  
> >
> *Hears Portland and perks up* Oh? An Ithra in August? Do tell...
> 
> Marie :)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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	<200605210015.03571.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 21:48:11 -0600
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Status: RO

I think I'm right about where you are, garb-wise, Cathy.  My "laundry list"
wasn't really an indication of my Extreme Expertise and Skills, but more
like the results of being consitutionally incapable of project monogamy.
Deity help me, a couple of weeks ago, I was encountering my first power tool
(a drill press) in a friend's garage, learning to register soapstone molds
so I can carve the molds and make my own pewter buttons for fitted gowns.
I'd love to hear more about you Lithuanian shawl!
--sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 10:15 PM
Subject: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)


> On Saturday 20 May 2006 5:06 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> > Sure! Always! <giggle>
> > I've got a variety of things going at the moment, some of them
peripherally
> > (sp?) associated with historical costuming,
>
> Wow, neat stuff, Sue!
>
> Since nothing else is going on here, this may be a good time for people to
> talk about their current costume/textile-related projects.
>
> Let's see.  What am I working on now?  Ignoring the stuff that's gotten
pushed
> so far down the list it's a misrepresentation to claim I'm working on it
at
> the moment, we have:
>
> *  A Viking apron dress of the same style as the reconstruction in the
Danish
> National Museum (I forget the official name of the museum just now,
sorry!)
>
> *  A plain linen smock or two to wear with it and other period garb (none
of
> my smocks are linen, and I'm trying to make my garb more properly
historic.)
>
> *  An ornamented shawl of a style found in Lithuanian digs dated to about
the
> 10th century.
>
> *  Teaching myself nalbinding so that I can eventually make myself a
properly
> period pair of socks.  My first project is a kind of floppy dome I'm
trying
> to turn into a simple hat.
>
> *  Remaking a classical Roman matron's tunic to be more period;
>
> *  Making a stola (sleeveless overdress--*not* a shawl or stole, despite
the
> name) to wear with the above.
>
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
> --General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] quick info needed
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Can anybody tell me how many yards it will take to
make a ruff for a man with a 16" neck?

I think I found a deal on some lace trim, but I'm not
sure there will be enough for two ruff sets.  There is
25 yds on the spool.  Will that be enough for two ruff
and cuff sets?

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 21:20:28 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Current projects
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I'm working on a new gown to go under my surcoat.  It's at the bottom  
of the page.
http://www.alfalfapress.com/sca/costume_projects.html

I'm almost done finishing the seams on the inside and will move to  
embroidering over the seams on the outside, then I can start  
embroidering the collar band.

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 00:01:43 -0400
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On Sunday 21 May 2006 11:48 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> I think I'm right about where you are, garb-wise, Cathy.  My "laundry list"
> wasn't really an indication of my Extreme Expertise and Skills, but more
> like the results of being consitutionally incapable of project monogamy.

Same here, which was part of my point.  However, you have attempted a wider 
variety of projects than I have (see below).

> Deity help me, a couple of weeks ago, I was encountering my first power
> tool (a drill press) in a friend's garage, learning to register soapstone
> molds so I can carve the molds and make my own pewter buttons for fitted
> gowns.

Now anything that requires power tools is a bit farther than I've cared to go!   
I'm still waffling about using that sheet copper I bought to try to make a 
Viking style needlecase-and I can do that with only a dowel and a pair of 
pliers (and maybe crazy glue).


> I'd love to hear more about you Lithuanian shawl! 

One of the things the lands along the Baltic seem to have in common 
(Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, parts of Finland, even Novogorod) is that the 
rich tended to ornament their clothes by working bronze coils and rings into 
them.  (Most of the 1st-10th c textile finds in those areas have survived 
because the bronze ornaments preserve a fair amount of the cloth.  Since most 
of the ornamentation was at the edges, you get a good idea of the size of the 
ornamented items.)

Based on where the metal ornaments were found, it appears that there was a 
standard shawl size (roughly 30 inches by 40 inches).  The proper way to do 
the ornamentation would be to weave the shawl to order, and wrap strips of 
sheet bronze or bits of bronze wire around certain warp threads as I worked, 
but I'm not likely to learn how to weave  anything bigger than a tablet-woven 
belt anytime soon.  So what I'll probably do is kind of corkscrew pieces of 
copper wire into already woven wool (I have some nice wool melton cut and 
fringed for the purpose).  Then, I will make smaller coils of copper wire, 
string them onto a cord, and couch them onto each short end.  

Raymond's Quiet Press started making the kind of stick pins that (it has been 
theorized) were used to fasten these shawls.  There's a picture of the design 
here:

http://www.quietpress.com/New2004.html

(look under "new in October 2004"; it's the left-hand picture, the item on the 
far right).

They were used in pairs, fastened together with bronze chains.  The pins 
attached to them are huge--as big as knitting needles (the same is true of 
the actual survivals Raymond's model is based upon).  

Having finally bought myself a pair from Raymond as a birthday present, my 
theory is that the pins were never meant to go through anything other than 
the shawl.  Once you fasten them to the shawl (I've already tried this) you 
can take the shawl off and on over your head  (really, really carefully, to 
make sure you don't gouge out your eyes) as a unit, without risking damage to 
the rest of your body or clothes.

I have already finished most of the rest of the costume the shawl is to be 
worn with.  When I finally finish the shawl, I'll put a picture in the MedCos 
gallery and post the URL to it here.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Current projects
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 10:05:38 +0200
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Hi,
Gosh how wonderfull you made the sleaves. Thanks for posting. Please let us 
know when there are more pictures!

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Althea Turner" <althea@alfalfapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 6:20 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Current projects


> I'm working on a new gown to go under my surcoat.  It's at the bottom  of 
> the page.
> http://www.alfalfapress.com/sca/costume_projects.html
>
> I'm almost done finishing the seams on the inside and will move to 
> embroidering over the seams on the outside, then I can start  embroidering 
> the collar band.
>
> Althea Turner
> althea@alfalfapress.com
>
> "Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  company 
> in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  anything; they 
> want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  reasons behind things."
> William of Conches, 12th century
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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You're lucky. It's cold and very wet in the UK (and I have my first camping event of the season next weekend!)
I've been too busy with domestic problems to do any dressmaking this year. I have a query, though. 

I've been clearing my mother's house (she is now in a nursing home) and have found some vintage garments. I know you are supposed to store such things in acid-free tissue paper, but have no idea what kind of shops sell such paper. Any suggestions?

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> cathy@thyrsus.com 20/05/2006 20:31 >>>

No, but I can just imagine.  Heck, I have a hard time working up the interest 
to do my *own* hemming when the weather is this good.  :-)


-- 
Cathy "heading to a cookout tonight"  Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>




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Subject: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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In discussion with a couple of friends at the weekend, we fell to 
talking about when we started sewing.  One friend is a re-enactor, 
the other a former wardrobe mistress for the National Theatre among 
other things. Both of them had started very early, making clothes for 
themselves and for dolls. And they did it for pleasure! (And I am a 
professional costume maker.)

Now I never made clothes for dolls that I remember. As a teenager I 
occasionally, and very badly, made the odd skirt or blouse for 
myself. I started work in the maintenance wardrobe of the RSC at 24, 
and the first serious making I did was in a rep company a couple of 
years later when I found it was part of my job as a wardrobe mistress 
to make the pantomime costumes. (I hate pantomime!) I got out of that 
very quickly, and went back to maintenance, eventually got married, 
had a son, and went to college as a mature student of 40 to learn to 
cut and make costumes. I discovered I was good enough never to have 
been out of work since I left college 20 mumble years ago.

But I still hate sewing up the costumes! I love the working out of 
what the customer wants, the choosing of the fabrics, the making of 
the patterns and cutting them out, (skip the next bit - the sewing 
up) love hand finishing, trimming, and fitting. But please could 
someone tell me where to get a magic wand to sew everything together?

Oh, and coincidentally to the sewing conversation, we wondered if it 
was a given that costume makers, whether professional, gifted 
amateur, or occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know do.

Suzi (about to sew the 5th Mary Queen of Scots costume, and putting it off!)


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 11:12 AM
Subject: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?


>
> In discussion with a couple of friends at the weekend, we fell to talking 
> about when we started sewing.  One friend is a re-enactor,
snip

I started early, at the age of 6 years to make clothes for my Barby dolls. 
My mom teached me. And i continued this many years. I did play with model 
trains, and toy cars also, but i always enjoyed the dolls more.
At the age of 12 i started to try to make an 18th century hoop petticoat, 
and i used canes. I loved to play with draping on the hoop.
Then in my pubity, stopped this mostly because it was embarrasing for me, if 
my friends would discover this strange behaviour of mine.
I loved to draw ladies dressed in 18th century style, and even at the school 
in the drawing lessons, i continuously did this.
I didnt think about a career with this, then, and actually i started an 
education after school to become a ship navigator. I went trough tests, and 
was hired for a danish shipping company. They sended me to a officers 
school, one of the hardest and most oldfashioned schools in Denmark called 
Kogtved Søfartsskole.
Later when i went to sea, i longed for my family and i skipped this 
education. Many in my family, shamed me to do such a thing because it was a 
wonderfull future career i skipped.
I went to  entrance examination to the danish design school and i was 
getting in.
I studyed 4 years here, and i was like a fish in water.
The end, i have told you all about before, i made costumes for renaissance 
dansers as my final test.
And i dont have a cat. If i would be allowed in this flat, i would have a 
King Charles Spanniel.

Bjarne 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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In a message dated 5/22/2006 5:13:19 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Both of  them had started very early, making clothes for 
themselves and for dolls.  And they did it for pleasure! 


I first started sewing when I got a Babette (cheap imitation Barbie) in 4th  
grade.  Before that, my mom sewed for me and my dolls.  My first  efforts were 
trying to copy what the commercial Barbies had, but then I started  getting 
creative.  It was great when the first commercial patterns for  these dolls 
came out.
 
I graduated to sewing for myself when I took home ec. in 7th grade.  I  made 
most of my clothes in high school, and my family had limited funds.
 
Majored in home ec. ed in college, where I took two very rigorous clothing  
construction classes.  Flat pattern was only offered in summer school,  which I 
couldn't afford, so I bought the text and tried to learn on my  own--later 
took that in graduate school.
 
But I know what you mean about sewing.  The design, fabric selection,  and 
figuring out how to do the project are what I enjoy most.  The actual  sewing, 
only if I'm doing something new.  That is one reason I didn't last  in 
theatre--I was only a stitcher, and too old to wait to work my up in the  hierarchy to 
get to the design part.
 
As a reenactor, I get to do the fun part--designing!  Before I took up  
reenacting, 10 years ago, I went through other sewing phases.  Made active  wear 
for a while--leotards and swimsuits, mostly.  And I did some lingerie.  The 
occasional formal dress.  And then my husband and I started  square dancing, and I 
made outfits for that--another way to indulge a fondness  for fun fabrics and 
trims.
 
I almost never make daywear anymore, but now I have two granddaughters, and  
I make some things for them.  I had forgotten, though, how tedious it is to  
manipulate size 3 parts!
 
Sometimes wish I had mice, like the Tailor of Gloucester, to do some  of the 
stitching.  Or, as someone said, we have these high tech sewing  machines.  
Why can't we just put the fabric on and they do the rest?
 
Ann Wass
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My Nana taught me to sew when I was 3.

I started making clothes when I was about 6 or 7. 
(Slightly strangely, they were always for me or my nana, never for dolls - 
nana knitted the clothes for my sindy dolls).

I begged my Nana for a fashion wheel (kids toy where you can rotate it to 
create different outfits and do rubbings on paper), for years, and finally got 
that and a sewing machine when I was 10.

Started designing clothes and cutting patterns about the same time.
Started making costumes when I was at college doing theatre.
Studied fashion.
And have been costuming for a while now.

Debbie


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 06:53:21 -0400
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 5:12 AM
Subject: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?


>
> In discussion with a couple of friends at the weekend, we fell to talking 
> about when we started sewing.  One friend is a re-enactor, the other a 
> former wardrobe mistress for the National Theatre among other things. Both 
> of them had started very early, making clothes for themselves and for 
> dolls. And they did it for pleasure! (And I am a professional costume 
> maker.)
>
> Now I never made clothes for dolls that I remember. As a teenager I 
> occasionally, and very badly, made the odd skirt or blouse for myself.

I, too, started out making Barbie clothes. And I loved Madame Alexander 
dolls for their exquisite costumes.
>
> But I still hate sewing up the costumes! I love the working out of what 
> the customer wants, the choosing of the fabrics, the making of the 
> patterns and cutting them out, (skip the next bit - the sewing up) love 
> hand finishing, trimming, and fitting. But please could someone tell me 
> where to get a magic wand to sew everything together?>>

The only part of the above that I DON'T love is the fitting. I truly, truly 
enjoy sewing. I do get impatient toward the end of the finishing up stage 
first. For my own costumes, I've started sewing by hand , mostly for 
authenticity, partly because it forces me to slow down and really savor the 
process.



 coincidentally to the sewing conversation, we wondered if it
> was a given that costume makers, whether professional, gifted amateur, or 
> occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know do.>>

Nope. I rent my house, and my husband hates cats. Besides, I have a 
cockatiel and an  African grey parrot, and I would really prefer that they 
not become kitty kibble.

Dianne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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In a message dated 5/22/2006 5:13:19 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

we  wondered if it 
was a given that costume makers, whether professional,  gifted 
amateur, or occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know  do.



Oh, and I have a cat now, but did not always have one.  Just the last  15 
years or so.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Current projects 
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2006 12:15 AM
Subject: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)


>
> Since nothing else is going on here, this may be a good time for people to
> talk about their current costume/textile-related projects.

Currently working on:

2 wedding dresses--one a simple "Irish Dress" in cotton, the other is an 
Italian gown, with chemise, undergown, and open-front overgown. The two 
bottom layers are linen (white and a gorgeous dark green), the overgown is a 
pretty burgundy that the bride purchased.

For myself- restitching a few of the pearls on my velvet Gown of Doom so I 
can wear it to an event next Sunday, and I'm in the planning stages of a new 
dress for Pennsic. I have eight yards of ivory tropical weight wool, and I'm 
considering sleeves and forepart in either gold or navy silk. And the Evil 
Mentor to whom I am Minion showed me Saturday how to make spangles out of 
gold wire!

I also have 25 yards of 3.5 oz linen to make underwear for Pennsic. The 
ultimate goal is underwear equaling number of days at event +1, but I won't 
quite be there by Pennsic. I promised my husband I would reduce what I'm 
taking thyis year, and I'm thinking along the lines of "all my underwear and 
four-five gowns". I also need hats and veils. Busy busy busy!

Dianne

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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Current projects
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My current project is an 1880's ball dress.  I've wanted to make one
for years, and finally there is an 1880's ball on the schedule.  I
have been trying to decide what year of the 1880's I want to emulate.
I only have two weeks until the ball so I need to get working this
week.  I will probably use a pattern from Janet Arnold to start with.
  I've made a webpage with inspiration for the ball-goers:

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1880e.html

I am leaning towards something like the first big color picture.
Probably in pink because I just can't find a blue I like in the right
weave.  A friend sent me the cutest wire bustle:

http://rivercrossinginc.tripod.com/corset.html

It looks really close to the original.  I will probably make the gown
to fit over this bustle so will emulate an 1883-84 line.  Petticoats
and chemise are on the schedule for this week.  And one last fabric
foray to the local home dec store with silks to-die-for.

Katy

On 5/22/06, Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com> wrote:
> I'm working on a new gown to go under my surcoat.  It's at the bottom
> of the page.
> http://www.alfalfapress.com/sca/costume_projects.html
>
> I'm almost done finishing the seams on the inside and will move to
> embroidering over the seams on the outside, then I can start
> embroidering the collar band.
>
> Althea Turner
> althea@alfalfapress.com
>
> "Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have
> company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into
> anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the
> reasons behind things."
> William of Conches, 12th century
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From: Jayne Thomas <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: When and how did you start making costumes?
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Hi!
   
  I learnt to sew when I was twenty-ish, by going to Adult Education classes, because I was unemployed, and wanted to fill a bit of the void (plus Employment Services paid for the course!).  I started costuming a couple of years ago, as it was more fun than making everyday clothes for my daughter.  My current project is my first serious attempt at making costumes. You can see what the mess I am making on-line at 
  http://photos.yahoo.com/dresspattern.  Only the muslin of the bodice at the moment (skirt is in progress!), but I hope to get on with it soon - small child permitting!!
   
  All the best!
  Jayne 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 07:19:57 -0600
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Hmm...interesting topic!
My mom used to say that I was trying to make things when I was a toddler.  I
know that by the time I was 5 or so, I was only really happy if I was
"making," as we called it, or reading.  But it wasn't sewing or embroidery
until I was 9 or so.  Started embroidery in Girl Scouts, and a couple of
years later, learned to sew in 4-H (which is a club for farm kids, or was,
when I was growing up).  I got very ambitious right away with what I thought
I could do, and normally did do--green velvet miniskirt that first year, and
not a bad job. <g>  Did ordinary clothes sewing for myself throughout high
school, and played with embroidery (mostly needlepoint and crewel work) and
quilting.  I don't know that I made many clothes for dolls for my own
purposes, but for a few years, I did churn out a LOT of clothes for my
little sister's Cabbage Patch dolls.  I was pretty much all self-taught, as
my mom was *not* a sewer, and the nearest relative who had done things like
that lived 2000 miles away and had died in 1971 (my grandfather).
It wasn't until I was looking for a job during college that I ever made a
"costume," let alone, a historical one.  Got a job in the costume shop of
the drama/dance department.  Graduated.  Ended up with a job as an
alterations and repair person at a dry-cleaners.  Went back to school after
a couple of years of that.  Worked in the costume shop, and while there, got
introduced to the SCA, finished school and then spent 7 years wrecking my
hands as a professional tent/tipi/awning/outfitters' products sewer.  The
rest is history....;o)
I think that last job did a fair bit towards eventually ruining my fondness
for working with a sewing machine.  As it is now, the actual sewing bit is
my least favorite part of making garb.  I'd much rather do the research and
planning....
Of course, I still gotta read and still gotta keep my hands busy to be
happy, but these days, it's fine sewing/embroidery (I have a passion for
various kinds of monochrome embroidery), or other textile arts (spinning,
knitting, weaving).
--Sue in Montana, who does have 4 cats

----- Original Message -----
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 3:12 AM
Subject: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?


>
> In discussion with a couple of friends at the weekend, we fell to
> talking about when we started sewing.  One friend is a re-enactor,
> the other a former wardrobe mistress for the National Theatre among
> other things. Both of them had started very early, making clothes for
> themselves and for dolls. And they did it for pleasure! (And I am a
> professional costume maker.)
>
> Now I never made clothes for dolls that I remember. As a teenager I
> occasionally, and very badly, made the odd skirt or blouse for
> myself. I started work in the maintenance wardrobe of the RSC at 24,
> and the first serious making I did was in a rep company a couple of
> years later when I found it was part of my job as a wardrobe mistress
> to make the pantomime costumes. (I hate pantomime!) I got out of that
> very quickly, and went back to maintenance, eventually got married,
> had a son, and went to college as a mature student of 40 to learn to
> cut and make costumes. I discovered I was good enough never to have
> been out of work since I left college 20 mumble years ago.
>
> But I still hate sewing up the costumes! I love the working out of
> what the customer wants, the choosing of the fabrics, the making of
> the patterns and cutting them out, (skip the next bit - the sewing
> up) love hand finishing, trimming, and fitting. But please could
> someone tell me where to get a magic wand to sew everything together?
>
> Oh, and coincidentally to the sewing conversation, we wondered if it
> was a given that costume makers, whether professional, gifted
> amateur, or occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know do.
>
> Suzi (about to sew the 5th Mary Queen of Scots costume, and putting it
off!)


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I come from a family of sewers.  My paternal great-grandmother was a 
dressmaker.  She literally could copy anything she saw, including most types 
of lace.  I inherited many of her tools and a ton of handmade lace and lace 
samples, which I used on my own wedding dress, and my niece's christening 
dress.  My maternal great-grandmother was the one who first taught me to 
sew, when I was 4.  I learned to machine sew by sitting on her lap while she 
ran the pedal of the treadle sewing machine and helped me learn to 
manipulate the fabric.  I made doll clothes all through my childhood, 
preferring to dress the dolls rather than actually playing with them.  My 
mother made all my school clothes until I was about 12 or so, and I helped 
her with many of them, which is probably why to this day I hate stroking 
gathers.

When I was 13 I was signed out of the manditory sewing class because my 
mother refused to have me make the required projects (a gathered half-apron 
and a tote bag) since they had to be done at the pace of the rest of the 
class, and she considered that a waste of my time.  The summer I was 14 I 
had my first real paying job sewing costumes for a summer stock production 
of Pirates of Penzance.  I worked for that theater company for the next 7 
summers, and also did high school drama productions.  I worked just about 
every tech job there was, and acted a bit, usually as a singer/dancer, but I 
always worked on the costumes.  I started historical reenactment when I was 
17, and of course costuming was a big draw.

As an adult, I've worked as an alterations seamstress (yuk!), had my own 
business producing accessories and children's clothes, line production 
sewing for a ski clothing manufacturer, sewing instructor, patternmaking and 
production sewing for an airplane manufacturer, and currently I'm making 
costumes, mostly reenactment costumes, free-lance.  I do costumes for a 
community theater group when they have a period piece and can afford me, but 
I'm mostly working for 2 private clients with seemingly inexhaustable 
costuming needs.

I'm entirely self-taught, with my grandmothers and my first theater director 
being my greatest mentors.  I would like to take a few classes, fashion 
drawing and some advanced patternmaking would be good, but I can't find any 
locally that won't require me to take an entire course, which I can't afford 
and don't have time for.

Oh, and I do have a cat, but I haven't always, and have had dogs in the 
past, and will again when we find the right puppy.  My current cat has a 
silk fetish, and so is banished from the sewing room, since he insists on 
dragging any silk fabric around the house with his teeth.

Melusine 

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Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 10:01:40 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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Status: RO

Wow-- someone else had a Babette doll. Cool.

I started sewing when I inherited my great aunt's sewing machine. No one
else wanted it, but I sure did! I started making clothes for my Babette doll
by hand, and "graduated"  when I got the machine to using the sewing
machine. I found a length of cloth in the seat of the bench and decided to
make a dress of "an old fashioned girl"-- a bustle style dress. It was a
disaster, but I kept going, undiscouraged by the failure.

I made dresses for my mom and myself. I still get teased about using
ric-rack as trim down the length of a sleeve. (I cut the sleeve wrong and
needed to cover it up.)

Then I decided to give a Halloween party and decided to do as Scarlett
O'Hara, because the movie had been re-released and it had impressed me a
lot. The costume was pretty elaborate and was the duplicate of the sketch in
the pattern envelope. I think I was 16 at the time.

I continued to make costumes and clothes through high school and became a
Theatre major. Ended up loving the Technical stuff because I HATED learning
lines. In Grad school I also majored in Theatre/ Costume. I did theatre
costumes for 6 years, moved to Long Island and needed a "real" job, so I got
hired to design swimwear. Twenty four years later, my design job went off
shore and I got a job teaching fashion in a college where I teach sewing,
among other things.

Belonging to the SCA fills my costuming "need" -- Elizabethan and Florentine
clothing of the 16th C. are my specialties.

My husband and I have dogs (Westies) at our house, who like to "butt test"
the fabric when it gets laid on the floor.

Regards to all-
Monica Spence




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REBECCA BURCH wrote:
> Can anybody tell me how many yards it will take to
> make a ruff for a man with a 16" neck?

It depends on how wide and deep the ruff will be.  For a relatively 
narrow ruff (say 2-3" wide from neck to outer edge) that will be 2" or 
less from top to bottom, you probably won't need more than 5 yards.  I 
never use more than 4 yards for mine, and they're about that size 
(though my neck of course is more like 14 or 14 1/2").  Wrist ruffs take 
much less, of course, so I think 25 yards is a gracious plenty unless 
you mean to make really large ruffs.

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
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At 09:13 22/05/2006, you wrote:
>You're lucky. It's cold and very wet in the UK (and I have my first 
>camping event of the season next weekend!)
>I've been too busy with domestic problems to do any dressmaking this 
>year. I have a query, though.
>
>I've been clearing my mother's house (she is now in a nursing home) 
>and have found some vintage garments. I know you are supposed to 
>store such things in acid-free tissue paper, but have no idea what 
>kind of shops sell such paper. Any suggestions?
>
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor


John Lewis in London used to sell it (in small packets) in their 
haberdashery department - they may still do so. Mine came through a 
museum contact of mine, (but it was a huge packet!) You could try 
asking your local museum?

Suzi


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My story is much like everyone else's. Mom sewed, came from a large farm 
family where grandma made everything from the underwear out. I learned 
to sew around the time I stopped putting things into my mouth. By 6 or 7 
I was making doll clothes and quilts for them. Did home ec and high 
school theatre, but not the clothing or costuming.  Didn't have much use 
for sewing as I got older, until the college theatre group made us 
responsible for our own costumes and I made a dress from a 1959 thrift 
shop pattern. Then there was the SCA. Quilted for a long time, too, 
until that got to be too trendy. Took up dance so I could play with 
sequins. The last ten years or so I've been experimenting with a wide 
variety of historical and fantasy costumes. Lately the research has 
interested me more than the design or the sewing or the wearing.

I'm currently working on a ren-fest rush job for this weekend. I 
discovered a few years ago that the same people who laughed at my sewing 
hobby in school are now willing to pay me....



Dawn

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Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 12:33:01 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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I hate sewing, though I quite enjoy embroidery and knitting. My Mum hated it too, and I got little help or encouragement from needlework classes at school. I used to make clothes for teenage dolls, but they were very crude and amateurish.

I've made a few garments for myself, but mostly on odd occasions that I've really wanted a particular style that I couldn't buy ready-made. I love reenactment, but I make the costumes in order to pursue the hobby rather than the other way round, and because I want something  better than the "mass-produced" kit sold by traders at events.

I've never had a cat; I keep dwarf hamsters because (apart from being cute) they can look after themselves for a night or two when I'm away at weekend events. I hope to get a dog when I have more spare time!

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 08:07:21 -0400
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
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I did a google search (acid free tissue uk) and came up with this UK
supplier among others:

http://www.conservation-by-design.co.uk/papers/papers26.html

Katy

On 5/22/06, Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:
> You're lucky. It's cold and very wet in the UK (and I have my first camping event of the season next weekend!)
> I've been too busy with domestic problems to do any dressmaking this year. I have a query, though.
>
> I've been clearing my mother's house (she is now in a nursing home) and have found some vintage garments. I know you are supposed to store such things in acid-free tissue paper, but have no idea what kind of shops sell such paper. Any suggestions?
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
> >>> cathy@thyrsus.com 20/05/2006 20:31 >>>
>
> No, but I can just imagine.  Heck, I have a hard time working up the interest
> to do my *own* hemming when the weather is this good.  :-)
>
>
> --
> Cathy "heading to a cookout tonight"  Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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The "magic wand" is called a sewing machine (evil grin)

>Oh, and coincidentally to the sewing conversation, we wondered if it 
>was a given that costume makers, whether professional, gifted 
>amateur, or occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know do.

Ah, yes! They provide quality control, doncha know!

>Suzi (about to sew the 5th Mary Queen of Scots costume, and putting it
off!)

Now, get back to work!! (snap of virtual whip).  You have LESS than five
weeks!!!!!!

Anne

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>Oh, and coincidentally to the sewing conversation, we wondered if it 
was a given that costume makers, whether professional, gifted 
amateur, or occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know do.

>Suzi (about to sew the 5th Mary Queen of Scots costume, and putting it off!)



Sadly, I don't have cats due to the hubby being deathly allergic. But I wish I did!

Natalie





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<<<I have a 
cockatiel and an  African grey parrot, and I would really prefer that they 
not become kitty kibble.>>>

I grew up in a home with a parrot and cats.  Trust me, the cats are the ones most likely to become kibble.  

Sorry about your husband - he doesn't know what great pets cats can be.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- goofy1@suscom.net wrote:

From: "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc:
Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 06:53:21 -0400



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From: " Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
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I started sewing when I was about five. My mother made handkerchiefs for my father and she would give me one to hem. I remember sitting there trying to make tiny little stitches, and failing. However, my father was a love and used them anyhow. Mother had a treadle Singer (we didn't have electricity at the time), and as soon as I could reach the treadle I started sewing doll clothes on it. I quickly found they were easier to do by hand. My first dress was actually a pinafore of white pique with little blue flowers. It had a ruffle around the hem and ruffles on the straps over the shoulders. And I was sooo proud of it.

I loved to sew until I took home ec in the 10th grade. After that horrible experience I didn't sew for several years. In college I went back to it because I couldn't afford to buy formals. And I have been sewing ever since. I even made a living being a seamstress for several years, but hated the alterations and finally quit that.

Costumes - ah yes, I made costumes for Halloween and then did the entire cast of a period play in college. That was a blast! I made costumes for friends and their kids off and on for years. Then I joined a Star Trek group and made Star Trek uniforms for most of the "crew". Science Fiction conventions required costumes for me and for friends. Then I joined SCA and really got into some serious research. Most of my period costumes are made by hand for authenticity and because I have learned to enjoy doing the hand work now that I am retired and have the time. 

I enjoy the research, design, finding just the right fabric and trim, and the sewing. I don't really like the cutting out because it is boring and makes my hands hurt. I have a closet full of hand made costumes, and ended up buying three pairs of slacks to take on a trip last month. I must get around to making myself some modern clothes one of these days. 

Cats - oh yes! Somewhere in the neighborhood of twenty or so. I seem to be the favorite place for everyone to palm off their unwanted cats and kittens (or cats about to have kittens). But I love them and they have an acre of land (and the woods on three sides) to wander in. I have them spayed or neutered so they don't continue to reproduce unwanted kittens, and they get their shots annually.  Every month I take two or three to the vet for check-ups and shots.  They also have their own door so the can come and go as they please. The only rooms off limits are the guest room and the sewing room. They can get in way too much trouble in the sewing room, and I like to keep the guest room for guests who may or may not be in love with cats.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
--- suzi@suziclarke.co.uk wrote:
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc:
Subject: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 10:12:04 +0100
In discussion with a couple of friends at the weekend, we fell
to
talking about when we started sewing. One friend is a
re-enactor,
the other a former wardrobe mistress for the National Theatre
among
other things. Both of them had started very early, making
clothes for
themselves and for dolls. And they did it for pleasure! (And I
am a
professional costume maker.)
Now I never made clothes for dolls that I remember. As a
teenager I
occasionally, and very badly, made the odd skirt or blouse for
myself. I started work in the maintenance wardrobe of the RSC
at 24,
and the first serious making I did was in a rep company a
couple of
years later when I found it was part of my job as a wardrobe
mistress
to make the pantomime costumes. (I hate pantomime!) I got out
of that
very quickly, and went back to maintenance, eventually got
married,
had a son, and went to college as a mature student of 40 to
learn to
cut and make costumes. I discovered I was good enough never to
have
been out of work since I left college 20 mumble years ago.
But I still hate sewing up the costumes! I love the working out
of
what the customer wants, the choosing of the fabrics, the
making of
the patterns and cutting them out, (skip the next bit - the
sewing
up) love hand finishing, trimming, and fitting. But please
could
someone tell me where to get a magic wand to sew everything
together?
Oh, and coincidentally to the sewing conversation, we wondered
if it
was a given that costume makers, whether professional, gifted
amateur, or occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know
do.
Suzi (about to sew the 5th Mary Queen of Scots costume, and
putting it off!)
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> > In discussion with a couple of friends at the weekend, we fell to 
> talking 
> > about when we started sewing.  

When I first joined the SCA, I made some rudimentary costumes but never
particularly enjoyed it. What I enjoy tremendously is embroidery and
embellishment, which started when I was looking to learn  a handcraft
that wasn't hard on my arthritic hands. A friend taught me blackwork,
which rocks!

Since then, the arthritis has gotten a lot better with treatment, and I
keep learning more medieval forms of embroidery. I also create the vast
majority of my designs.

Plus I have pals who love to costume, and are darned good at it.

And two cats who have learned that Mama's silk threads are nothing to
tamper with.

Arlys

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Hi
I too have this bundle of 25 yds of linen staring at me...I'm 
starting small with an 18th cent cap while carefully figguring and 
measuring cuts for the underclothes--2 sets per weekend x 2 people x 
3-4 Eras...
Hey at least I'll be savin on gas by being home and sewing like a mad 
monkey! And then the stays construction resumes...
Oh and this is also a cat free household--large Psittacines = cats, 
yum! (and that is the evil Cockatoo talking!) and then there are the 
whippets.
Ta
Carol, hey do the neighbors strays that live in the barn count? They 
bring new meaning to the term wild cat!
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 10:55:11 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I started sewing around age 4, well, actually, that is not entirely
true. I was knitting at age 4. Not my idea, it was Mom actually. She
was pregnant with my baby sister and was exasperated with my energy
level one day and handed me her knitting. Not only did I stop
talking and moving, which pleased her to no end, I sat down and
tried to knit. This is her story, she is sticking to it. I do have a
memory of this but in my memory I sat down on a chair and pretended
to do what she was doing. I would not call it knitting. She did
teach me how to do it and I did help her finish my baby sister's
blanket.

After that she started to tell everyone what I was doing and
Grandmother got into the gig. She started me on sewing together
quilt squares for her when I was over at her place.

Next sewing gig, Kindergarten. The nuns were from France and made us
make our own little white gloves. I finished mine first while the
other struggled to thread the needles. Shakes head. God would they
ever get in trouble today if they handed kindergartners needles.
These are not the gloves that we use with fourchettes and bolton
thumbs. We cut a long strip and went from the outside of the glove,
over the thumb, between the fingers, and terminated it at the pinky.
We basically traced our hands on paper and like a cartoon looking
hand and cut that out of that strange knit fabric you do not see
around anymore. They were stretchy.

That hooked me on to gloves and I still make them today. I am pair
number 3 on my list this week and hope to be done by thursday. I
have to ship one pair off and hand the other two off this weekend to
a couple of really cool buddies.

When I was home with Grandma I had dogs and cats. When I went off to
college I have always had cats. After I got married we had a dog for
a day. He eat a hole in the fence and we gave him back the next day.

I like making elizabethan costumes on occasion, Italians however are
my passion and when I find a really good one specifically from
Sienna I make it. Flemish intreges me and I may try that some day
... when I am caught up on gloves that is. ;)

Chiara

On Mon, May 22, 2006 4:12 am, Suzi Clarke said:
>
> In discussion with a couple of friends at the weekend, we fell to
> talking about when we started sewing.
>
> Oh, and coincidentally to the sewing conversation, we wondered if it
> was a given that costume makers, whether professional, gifted
> amateur, or occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know do.
>
> Suzi (about to sew the 5th Mary Queen of Scots costume, and putting
> it off!)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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I remember from a young age having a "dress-up" closet made up of less than perfect vintage clothes my mother had picked up at the second hand store. There was one very yellow gown made of either silk or satin with a tulle overskirt and lace over the bodice that I remember well. So I guess I was interested in costume early on.
   
  My mother also made my costumes for ballet recitals, horse shows and halloween as well as some every day clothes, so she helped start my interest in sewing and making costumes.
   
  I used to make crude doll clothes, and as it was the fashion at the time, crochet ponchos for my barbie dolls out of doilies.
   
  My mom was just beginning to teach me to machine sew when she died so I am mostly self taught, scorning Home-Ec class to take drafting, and wood and metal shop.
   
  I've dabble in costume somewhat, even had a load of fun designing the set and costumes for a theoretical production of "Much Ado About Nothing" for a class in college, but it is only recently that I have gotten really interested in doing truely accurate period costume.
   
  And I have 4 cats, 2 horses, 2 gold fish and 1 dog. The cats provide way too much "supervision" and quality control.
   
  Annette M

		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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In a message dated 5/22/2006 10:03:39 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
monicaspence@optonline.net writes:

I  started making clothes for my Babette doll



I dressed Babette as the Empress Josephine in her coronation gown for a  high 
school class and she still wears that to this day,  35 years  later.
 
For the record, I think Babette has a prettier face than the original  Barbie.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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I started sewing when I was 5. My gran sewed clothing and made quilts. I 
remember sitting on the floor watching the wheel spin on her treadle sewing 
machine. I kept on sewing, making my own halloween costumes. I, too, became 
interested in Star Trek and made several costumes for aliens to wear. :-)

I made my wedding gown on a treadle machine. It was the only one that I had 
at the time. Unfortunately, it wasn't my gran's machine. It apparently went 
to charity when they moved to a smaller house in 1970.

In addition to the beautiful treadle that I bought at a yard sale, I have a 
very old Viking (the first "computerized" machine), an old JC Penney 
machine, an old Singer in a bent wood case, a Euro-Pro basic machine and a 
little battery operated machine that goes with me to events (in case of a 
major clothing malfunction!).

In 1990 I attended my first SCA event and the costume bug bit hard! 
Sixteenth century Florentine is my passion. I love how I feel when I wear 
one of my gowns. Lately, though, I've taken to wearing the Greenland-style 
gowns. They're easier for me to maneuver around in.

Oh - I do have cats and have had since I was 6. :-)

kate 


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Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 13:36:43 -0400
From: Kristin <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: When and how did you start making costume?
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Hmmm... the first memory I have is with one of those little plastic
child-size Singer machines with a real needle, and playing with that.  I
must have been about 6 at that point.  As a child, my parents were convinced
that I'd become a fashion designer, as I'd take old shower curtains and
other fabrics and turn them into costumes.

My grandmother would help me out as a child, when I spent summers with her
in the Midwest.

In middle school and high school I did make a number of my own outfits...
skirts and dresses that I actually wore.  In my early 20's I took a design
course at Wash. U. where I learned how to create a flat pattern from a
sloper.  I made a French Maid's costume one year for Halloween... I used a
pattern, but did all the sewing entirely by hand.  When I got married, I
made my own wedding dress, since I wanted silk, and simple, and didn't see
anything I liked that I could afford.

My sewing has been a bit sporadic over the years, as I like to do a number
of different things with my hands.  I like ceramics, painting, gardening,
and sewing (both machine and hand).

At the moment, I'm working on an 18th century pair of stays.  This past fall
I found some fabric at a church flea market, that I thought would make a
nice 18th century outfit, which I've wanted to do for a long time. I'm still
working on the quilted petticoat, but have the gown done.  I know it's not
totally accurate, but I figure it's a first try and I can learn from what's
wrong with it.  I'm thinking that I may have to get into re-enacting just to
have an excuse to wear all the stuff I'm making and want to make!  Anyone
know of any good groups in the Philadelphia area?

Oh... I don't have any cats at the moment, but I'm definitely a cat person
(and may end up adopting two stray kittens that have found a home in my
mother's garage).

Kristin


On 5/22/06, Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I remember from a young age having a "dress-up" closet made up of less
> than perfect vintage clothes my mother had picked up at the second hand
> store. There was one very yellow gown made of either silk or satin with a
> tulle overskirt and lace over the bodice that I remember well. So I guess I
> was interested in costume early on.
>
> My mother also made my costumes for ballet recitals, horse shows and
> halloween as well as some every day clothes, so she helped start my interest
> in sewing and making costumes.
>
> I used to make crude doll clothes, and as it was the fashion at the time,
> crochet ponchos for my barbie dolls out of doilies.
>
> My mom was just beginning to teach me to machine sew when she died so I am
> mostly self taught, scorning Home-Ec class to take drafting, and wood and
> metal shop.
>
> I've dabble in costume somewhat, even had a load of fun designing the set
> and costumes for a theoretical production of "Much Ado About Nothing" for a
> class in college, but it is only recently that I have gotten really
> interested in doing truely accurate period costume.
>
> And I have 4 cats, 2 horses, 2 gold fish and 1 dog. The cats provide way
> too much "supervision" and quality control.
>
> Annette M
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Where did you learn to sew and what is your dress form
	wearing?
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I started sewing as a child, doing my father's mending and alterations. 
(My mother didn't sew much.) My father bought me an antique treadle 
machine because it was cheap, simple to operate, and hard to break. He 
also taught me what I knew about sewing at that point in my life.

I took Home Ec for two years in junior high, which taught me nothing, 
and almost turned me off sewing for life.

I started collecting vintage clothes when I was in my teens. My parents 
were always going to country estate auctions--they collected Victorian 
furniture (and all kinds of other things). They encouraged me to have an 
interest in something antique, and were happy to buy me box lots of 
Victorian and Edwardian clothes, which were going cheap at the time. I 
taught myself how to clean, mend, and alter the clothes, though I read a 
lot more about those techniques starting a few years later.

I really got interested in sewing in my last two years of high school. I 
wanted to make clothes that were interesting and different (also ones 
that fit, since I'm 4'9"). I designed my own clothes by drawing around 
basic ones I owned and winging it from there. Sometimes my designs 
worked, but often they didn't.

Which was frustrating, and made me realize I needed some formal 
training. I wasn't contemplating a career in clothing design--my parents 
wanted me to be an academic--but I managed to fit in almost all of both 
the clothing design and textile courses around my requirements as a 
history major. I took several beginning to advanced sewing courses, 
couture sewing and design, flat pattern work, drafting, weaving, and 
crochet. (My father bought me my first electric machine, a Sears 
Kenmore.) I did a lot of reading on clothing history--I'd done some when 
I was in high school, but got really serious about it when I was in 
college. I made a lot of my daily clothes, and they were as historically 
inspired as I could wear in modern life. But I wanted to make the real 
thing; which is how I got involved in reenactment type activities. First 
I wanted a place to wear the clothes, but husband and I soon took up 
historic dance (we'd previously been doing other types of dance).

The other thing I'd been doing since childhood was writing. After I got 
my history degree I ended up with a career in publishing. (Although 
early in it I also completed a publishing program at another college, 
spending several years in night school.) I worked my way up from being 
an editorial assistant through being a project manager/senior editor, at 
various book and magazine publishers. I also wrote software manuals in 
Silicon Valley. Eventually I decided to start my own business. It was 
obvious that I should publish books on costuming, considering I'd been 
studying it almost all my life.

Right now I'm doing something I haven't done in years--designing my 
daily clothes. I was only interested in "accurate" historic ones for a 
long time. Historic clothes got too outré for daily life as styles 
changed (although I remember when I could go into work as an editor 
wearing Ralph Lauren skirts with vintage Edwardian blouses and boots and 
huge repro hats). New petites lines made it easier to buy modern clothes 
RTW, and I wasn't interested in spending my time making simple things I 
could buy off the rack.

But now, it's possible to look more interesting. So I've been working on 
a series of skirts made from vintage embroidered tablecloths. (More than 
I really need of course, but with me, the practical need for an item of 
clothing has never been the point.) I buy them on eBay, colored when I 
can, but I've bought a lot of sturdier ones white and dyed them. I'm 
doing draped and layered effects inspired by bustle dress styles, but 
updated, things I can wear in daily life. (At least, since I'm willing 
to be a little different.) I'm doing the designs by draping the 
tablecloth on a dress form till it looks good. There are a lot of 
interesting things you can do with a fancy tablecloth. I've also been 
making tops to go with them. Some are made from embroidered placemats or 
napkins that came with the tablecloths.

The other thing I'm doing is, I bought dozens of T-shirts and tops in 
various styles from Dharma Trading. I've been doing a load of machine 
dyeing every week for months. I'm leaving a lot of them as is--my goal 
was partly to have one long-sleeved shirt, one short-sleeved shirt, one 
camisole or tank, and one pair of socks  in every one of my favorite 
colors and shades. But some I'm decorating with bits of vintage lace and 
crochet, small yardage, medallions, doilies, collars and cuffs, in 
various more or less Victorian/Edwardian ways. I'm trying to use up 
things I've accumulated for years, which are otherwise not very usable, 
and not buy new. I try not to cut up the shirts, but sometimes I have 
to. I'm almost done with the dye lots, I have only five or six more 
loads/weeks to go. Three of those will be very light shades, so I can 
transfer colored Victorian fashion plates to them with transfer paper, 
and decorate from there.

Although I’ve made historic clothing for my husband, I prefer not to do 
it for anyone but us two. When you make things for yourself, you can 
spend as much money and time as you want, and make exactly what you 
want. When you make things for other people, you’re always working with 
their constraints.

I emphatically do not want a cat, or any kind of pet. I don’t want cat 
claws in my silks, or a puppy chewing up my library of rare 
publications. (Nor do I want a child—that would be even more 
destructive, as well as time consuming.)

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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Status: RO

I starting hand sewing things when I was pretty young, pretty much taking
fabric scraps from my mother's sewing room and making doll clothes, which
lead to making dolls too because I didn't think I had enough.  I didn't
start regular sewing until I was nearly a teenager.  What I remember most
about the first thing I made was that I was working with left over's from
one of my mom's projects, so I dodn't have quite enough to make the sleeves,
unless I pieces the fabric together.  My mom's comment when she saw what I'd
done was "Good work"  She had been taught to sew as a child from an aunt and
had been sewing for all eight of her kids.  She'd also spent a year or so
working at a fabric store and was always put out with the people that
believed that if the pattern said you had to have 5/8 inch buttons, you
couldn't use 1/2 inch buttons instead.  So my first solo project pleased her
in that I didn't worry too much about what the pattern said, if I got a
function top out of the process.

I had gone on to sew mundane clothing through high school, did some sewing
for my children when they were young.  for a year or two I had taken up hand
quilting, when I lived in Germany and didn't have a sewing machine
available.  Over the years I've sewed less and less mudane stuff, doing more
costumes until I found the SCA, a reason to make lots and lots of costumes
of different types.  As I've gone on I sometimes sew for my granddaughter
little dresses, more things for her to dress up in- like the baby blue satin
and gold lame "elizabethan" last Christmas, when great with her roller
blades...
As to costume sewing I regularlly look for "garbie dolls", people who need
costumes, but don't sew for whatever reason.  Since they pay for the fabric,
and sometimes for labor, I get to "feed" my habit without cost to myself.

The last couple of years I've been researching 16th century dolls, so I have
been making them and dressing them, which brings together many of the skills
I've worked to delevop up to this point, since their clothing require the
same forms and layers as regular people.  And now I have my granddaughter
for the summer, and I get to dress her for events too.  She's a lot of fun
in that she loves to dress up and play with dolls where her mother only did
if other kids wanted to but it was never her favorite game.

And I've only had cats inside with me the last five years or so, before that
it was always dogs.  I still have a dog, but the cats have taken over my
house.  I have a long hair black cat that believes silk is for her,
especially the red-black shot I had draped on the sewing table, that showed
her off beautifully.  Then there's Quasimoto who not only lays on whatever
I'm working on, he grabs at the cloth as it moves around.  I swear he keeps
it up, he's going to get his whiskers clipped, and it won't be intentional.

As to the sewing itself, I guess I do live to sew at the machine, but after
a car accident years ago I developed calcium on the spine and I can only do
a couple of hours before it becomes extremely painful.  So I've been doing
more handsewing and embroidery in my nicy comfy lazy boy with my feet
propped up.

alex
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To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
From: Dawn Luckham <dluckham@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] re:1844 Corset Again-Busk Questions 
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Anne wrote:  Based on the recent discussion of the split busk being 
invented in 1853, it seems I should use a wooden busk for this transitional 
corset. However, given the curve along CF, how is that going to work? (snip)

Do you suppose you need a specially made curved busk? The pattern indicates 
the busk runs entirely top to bottom--16.5 inches on me. I am concerned 
that if I get a busk that long that I am going to have it poking me in the 
pubic bone when I sit down. (snip)

Anne, I'm going to disagree with the earlier discussion you 
mentioned.  Valerie Steele in her book "The Corset, A Cultural History" 
shows a fashion plate dated 1837 (page 42) which clearly shows a front 
separating busk.  To my eyes and given the size the image is shown (about 
half size) it looks very, very much like the type of separating busks 
available to us today.  In the "The History of Underclothes" Phillis and C. 
Willett Cunnington mention that by 1847 front fastening corsets are 
commonly advertised.  That is not to say 1844 is still not a transitional 
period. It is and the wooden busk is also very common.  The wooden busks 
can be carved and curved somewhat.

I don't know about a busk that runs 16.5 inches!  I was taught that the 
busk must fit the individual body - and I can't imagine a body that needs a 
busk that long unless the individual is over 6 feet tall (an "average" busk 
length is 12 inches - but this of course varies on short waisted or long 
waisted proportions).  I was taught that the busk runs from the top of the 
corset to a spot that is comfortable when sitting on a hard flat chair or 
stool (at pubic bone area).  If the corset busk is longer than that, 
sitting becomes very difficult and when you do sit, it pushes the bust 
upward in the extreme.  Your bust should not be under your chin when you 
sit down.  If the corset is to be longer than the busk, the lower portion 
of the corset is fastened with hooks and eyes, allowing it to be flexible 
for sitting.

I hope this helps with your project somewhat.
Dawn


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I made a fashion doll (pre Barbie) a Marie Antoinett gown, complete with a wig made from cotton balls when I was in the ninth grade for a history project.  Don't have a clue what happened to her though.  We moved a lot.
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

From: AnnBWass@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 13:25:40 EDT

In a message dated 5/22/2006 10:03:39 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
monicaspence@optonline.net writes:

I  started making clothes for my Babette doll



I dressed Babette as the Empress Josephine in her coronation gown for a  high 
school class and she still wears that to this day,  35 years  later.
 
For the record, I think Babette has a prettier face than the original  Barbie.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: When and how did you start making costume?
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 14:13:40 -0400
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Status: RO

Annette,

We have 2 Paso Fino horses.  I sew Parade stuff for them and us.  I got 
into some historically oriented activities- volunteering at local 
sites- one is Rev War and  one is Victorian. When possible, I ride 
sidesaddle in costume.

What type of horses do you have?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On May 22, 2006, at 12:04 PM, Kahlara wrote:

> I remember from a young age having a "dress-up" closet made up of less 
> than perfect vintage clothes my mother had picked up at the second 
> hand store. There was one very yellow gown made of either silk or 
> satin with a tulle overskirt and lace over the bodice that I remember 
> well. So I guess I was interested in costume early on.
>
>   My mother also made my costumes for ballet recitals, horse shows and 
> halloween as well as some every day clothes, so she helped start my 
> interest in sewing and making costumes.
>
>   I used to make crude doll clothes, and as it was the fashion at the 
> time, crochet ponchos for my barbie dolls out of doilies.
>
>   My mom was just beginning to teach me to machine sew when she died 
> so I am mostly self taught, scorning Home-Ec class to take drafting, 
> and wood and metal shop.
>
>   I've dabble in costume somewhat, even had a load of fun designing 
> the set and costumes for a theoretical production of "Much Ado About 
> Nothing" for a class in college, but it is only recently that I have 
> gotten really interested in doing truely accurate period costume.
>
>   And I have 4 cats, 2 horses, 2 gold fish and 1 dog. The cats provide 
> way too much "supervision" and quality control.
>
>   Annette M
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just 
> 2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
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In a message dated 5/22/2006 11:19:24 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:

ended up  buying three pairs of slacks to take on a trip last month. I must 
get around  to making myself some modern clothes one of these days.  




But why waste your precious sewing time making what you can buy?  And  no way 
could I make a pair of lined wool slacks with fly front zipper as cheaply  as 
I can buy them.  Materials alone would probably be almost as much, and  my 
time is worth SOMETHING!  (As I'm not retired yet, I have to ration  my sewing 
time!)
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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Alexandria Doyle wrote:

> ...As to costume sewing I regularlly look for "garbie dolls", people 
> who need
> costumes, but don't sew for whatever reason.  Since they pay for the 
> fabric,
> and sometimes for labor, I get to "feed" my habit without cost to myself.

*snicker* I love it! Garbie dolls. I'll remember that one. :)

I started sewing as a kind as well, don't remember how young. My 
birthday is Halloween, so, obviously, I was born with the costume bug. 
My mom would sew at the table and she taught me how to do hand stitches 
and work the machine. I don't have a machine these days; I do my work by 
hand because it always looks better and gets me in a Sewing-Zen sort of 
state. But I think I still have barbies with costumes on them. I vividly 
remember reading about Elizabethan corsets and using cardbord and 
masking tape to make poor barbie into the proper shape. I think my first 
real complete costume was a Jedi outfit. :D

Marie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re:1844 Corset Again-Busk Questions 
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 13:32:12 -0500
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Without going downstairs to look at C&C for the exact date, the modern style 
of busk was invented in the late 1820s; 1828 sticks in my head.  They didn't 
come into widespread use until the 1840s, but it's definitely not impossible 
to find them earlier.

-E House 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] In an ideal "sewing" world..............
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The discussion about when and where you all started sewing seems to 
show me that I am, so far, the only one who has no childhood 
background of sewing. (I think this was because my mother, a 
brilliant seamstress, had no patience with my clumsy efforts, and as 
she was left handed, had problems teaching me. This is only a guess.)

However, it leads me on to thinking about my ideal "sewing" (remember 
I hate making up clothes) situation. For a start I wish I had met my 
tutors twenty years later, and set up my business twenty years 
sooner. I would then have had a small workroom, with ladies who like 
"making up" to do the bits I don't enjoy. Then I could research, and 
make patterns and cut, and decide on fabrics to my heart's content. I 
might have to allow others to do some of the bits, but as the "boss" 
I get to choose what to do. (And I don't get to do the making up - oh 
dream on!!)

Interestingly, I would still do what I do, only more so if I had a 
workroom, only I might have been sufficiently experienced to work in 
movies, or theatre, and not been dogged by deadlines if there was help.

Any other daydreams?

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] acid free tissue paper
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I've been clearing my mother's house (she is now in a nursing home) and have 
found some vintage garments. I know you are supposed to store such things in 
acid-free tissue paper, but have no idea what kind of shops sell such paper. 
Any suggestions?

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

Hi Kate.
Here in Denmark we have a nice shop that sells all kinds of papers for 
offices, and also arts papers. They carry the acid free tissue paper, so if 
you have a shop like that, try and ask them!
You could also try some bookshops, perhaps?
Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Anne <adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1844 Corset Again-Busk Questions
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Hello all!
    I am glad to see some discussion going again. To add to it I am 
still (very slowly) working on this corset. My next question for those 
who have made it before is about the busk. Based on the recent 
discussion of the split busk being invented in 1853, it seems I should 
use a wooden busk for this transitional corset. However, given the curve 
along CF, how is that going to work? Following the seam line exactly, 
the corset front is quite straight until just below the waist, where it 
suddenly curves inward ending just above my pubic bone (I hope that 
makes sense). Do you suppose you need a specially made curved busk? Can 
you short cut around this and either have the busk end before the lower 
curve or straighten out the seam line? Obviously that is going to change 
the line of the corset. The pattern indicates the busk runs entirely top 
to bottom--16.5 inches on me. I am concerned that if I get a busk that 
long that I am going to have it poking me in the pubic bone when I sit 
down. I already have this problem on my existing 1830s corset when I 
bend over to tie my shoe or cook.
    Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated and thanks in advance!
Anne
-- 
Anne Dealy
adelaideatgenevahistoricalsociety.com
(be sure to change "at" to "@")
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Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 19:58:47 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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At 19:15 22/05/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 5/22/2006 11:19:24 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:
>
>ended up  buying three pairs of slacks to take on a trip last month. I must
>get around  to making myself some modern clothes one of these days.
>
>
>
>
>But why waste your precious sewing time making what you can buy?  And  no way
>could I make a pair of lined wool slacks with fly front zipper as cheaply  as
>I can buy them.  Materials alone would probably be almost as much, and  my
>time is worth SOMETHING!  (As I'm not retired yet, I have to 
>ration  my sewing
>time!)


I almost never make for myself - 1. because I don't like to, and 2. 
as Ann says - why waste time sewing for yourself when you can buy 
cheaper (and in my case, probably better!) Also if I am making for 
myself, I am not making for other people, therefore I am not earning 
money. (And to anyone who suggests evenings or weekends - would you 
do your weekday job in the evenings and weekend as well as in the 
day? No way thank you!)

Suzi


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Suzi Clarke wrote:
> In discussion with a couple of friends at the weekend, we fell to 
> talking about when we started sewing.  
> (snipped) 
> Oh, and coincidentally to the sewing conversation, we wondered if it was 
> a given that costume makers, whether professional, gifted amateur, or 
> occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know do.

I've been sewing since I was a little girl. My mom would let me sit on 
her lap in front of the sewing machine and "move" the fabric. I started 
making clothes for a teddy bear once I could use the machine (it had a 
knee-lever for power, so I did not have to reach the floor). I don't 
know how old I was, probably 7?
I progressed to Barbie clothes and then clothes for a fancy 
European-made doll Mom got me (I think she got tired of finding 
dismembered Barbies around (the only way to get a regular blouse on a 
Barbie is to remove her head and her arms, stuff the arms in the sleeves 
(from the inside) pull the blouse and arms over her neck, and then 
reattach her head). Putting the arms back in the sockets was always 
annoying)).
Dolls and teddybear alike had lots of costumes. Mom gave me a battered 
long pink floral silk scarf which I turned into a sari for Barbie. There 
was a contest at a local bank to make "international" costumes for 
dolls. I made several costumes for those dolls.
The first garment I made for myself was a gathered-at-the-waist skirt, 
with a button, buttonhole, and zipper, and an interfaced waistband.
I found Folkwear patterns after that and had fun making unusual clothes 
to wear.
I made a Darth Vader costume in highschool (my friends and I were all 
'under the influence' of Star wars). It was pretty cool.
Then I got into science fiction fandom in college and started making 
lots of costumes. Most of them were from novels I had read and enjoyed.
I would make historical costumes to wear for halloween. They were not 
very 'authentic' but people could mostly figure out who I was supposed 
to be.
Now most of the costume sewing I do is for use in the SCA or to wear to 
work/school (I consider, for the purposes of this email, that any pre 
1990 clothes or fantasy clothes I make to be costume).
I did own cats, but that was only because I was not supposed to have ANY 
pets in the apartment and me and all my neighbors figured cats were 
easier to hide than dogs.
Now I have a dog. Totally a dog person.
Note: I do not dress my dog in costumes.

liz young

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I started sewing when I joined the SCA. Before that, my mother would
make me wonderful Halloween costumes, and I'd help her by sewing the
straight seams on the machine, but that's about it. I never even made
doll clothes, or anything of the kind before. But I LOVED historical
clothing. Ever since I was a child I've loved dressing up, not in
funny clothes, but in clothes of other cultures or of eras past.

So, when I joined the SCA, sewing became the way to obtain the
costumes I wanted. I think to this day I like "having made" something
more than I like "making" it. I had to learn to make clothes without a
pattern (thanks Kass - and her reconstructinghistory website),
something my mother wouldn't do. I learned mostly by reading mailing
lists and websites.

I love thinking about projects, planning, researching, buying fabric
and accessories, washing, preparing and ironing the fabric, but then I
get stuck because I HATE HATE HATE marking, pinning and cutting.
Sometimes a project will sit in a box for years before I start because
I just can't bring myself to lay it out and cut. The sewing stage
itself doesn't bother me. It's not something I enjoy doing, but I
don't hate it either. Fitting doesn't bother me either, but fitting
myself is kind of a hassle - I really have to get a dress dummy at
some point. Then I get to the other part I love - hand-finishing.
Hemming, finishing the inside seams, all of that.

I also love cats, and used to have one (he'd find a squishy spot
somewhere close by and sleep there while I worked - wonderful to have
that kind of company) but I'm allergic and doubt I'll ever have
another one. You're right though - when I think of it, all (or almost
all) costumers I know have cats.

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Subject: [h-cost] Yippee!!
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My copy of Moda a Firenze arrived in today's mail!!!

I'm so excited!! There are portraits that I've never seen in it AND there's 
a page-sized image of the portrait of Laudomia de Medici as well.

Hurrah!!

kate 


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Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 21:16:19 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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I don't remember voluntarily sewing articles as a child.  I remember 
making a toy rabbit at Brownies, and Binker embroidered mats at primary 
school, but I never made clothes for dolls or anything like that.  My 
mother was a needlework teacher, so I learned the basics, and we had to 
do needlework for a year in high school.  I think my mother did most of 
the dressmaking because she was quicker and better at it.  It was only 
when I got into re-enactment that I saw a reason to sew for myself, and 
all that I had absorbed without noticing came out - and Mother was quite 
stunned at my readiness to make garments without a pattern! (only 
t-tunics etc, but it's a start.)

I enjoy the making, and the wearing.  Research is not really my scene. 
I hate cutting out, but once I get going on putting it together, and 
sitting gently hemming, I'm very happy.  I wish I lived closer to 
someone who liked the other parts, and we coud share.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Quoting AnnBWass@aol.com:

>
> In a message dated 5/22/2006 5:13:19 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
> we  wondered if it
> was a given that costume makers, whether professional,  gifted
> amateur, or occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know  do.
>

3.  As to my Current Project?  Finishing this Dissertation.  *then* 
I'll get to the sewing ....

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1844 Corset Again-Busk Questions
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In a message dated 5/22/2006 10:42:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com writes:

I  already have this problem on my existing 1830s corset when I 
bend over to  tie my shoe or cook.



****************
 
Put your shoes on first...then the corset. ...:-P
 
 
Ok ok, I'm teasing. But remember, many corset wearers, in their period, had  
a fleet of servants. [There's a wonderful scene in "Little Dorrit" where, 
after  having been in Debtor's Prison, but now out and with a fortune, Mr. 
Dorrit's  coffee is cold. Amy, his daughter born in the prison and only knowing that  
life, picks up the tray to get more. "No no no!" says Mr. Dorrit, "Call 
someone!  It is highly improper to do the servants work for them and make them feel 
we can  dispense with any of their services at any time." ]
 
Anyway, corsets restrict movement. As for sitting, it shouldn't bother you  
if you sit up straight. Ladies often just perch on the edge of the  chair.
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Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 09:01:57 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] quick info needed
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REBECCA BURCH wrote:

>Can anybody tell me how many yards it will take to
>make a ruff for a man with a 16" neck?
>
>I think I found a deal on some lace trim, but I'm not
>sure there will be enough for two ruff sets.  There is
>25 yds on the spool.  Will that be enough for two ruff
>and cuff sets?
>  
>
There's no quick answer to that.  It depends on the style of ruff. 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 14:04:15 -0700
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My husband wanted drop front trousers to wear at Dickens Fair, so we hit the
fancy fabric store, and found, in the sale section, wool/silk material,
which he says is "like buttah". And he sewed them HIMSELF! And then went on
to make a frock coat. Pretty good when you consider he had only made a very
simple shirt 20 years ago to wear to a Ren faire.
I started sewing in high school, self taught, with horrible results, so I
took a home ec class to learn the basics. Then majored in Tech theatre in
college, so took the costume classes-History, Design, and Pattern Drafting.
I made all my kids' Halloween and dress-up costumes. I've done some theatre
costumes, but for the last few years, have been working on Renfaire
costumes-Household and noble costumes for my daughter and myself, and
Dickens fair costumes. Now my daughter has taken a sewing class, so she is
sewing her own costumes- good because we also go to local "period/fantasy
costume balls", for which she and her friends sew madly (usually until the
wee hours of the night before).
Right now I'm beading my noble dress. I have decided I hate beading.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 11:16 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?


 
In a message dated 5/22/2006 11:19:24 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:

ended up  buying three pairs of slacks to take on a trip last month. I must 
get around  to making myself some modern clothes one of these days.  




But why waste your precious sewing time making what you can buy?  And  no
way 
could I make a pair of lined wool slacks with fly front zipper as cheaply
as 
I can buy them.  Materials alone would probably be almost as much, and  my 
time is worth SOMETHING!  (As I'm not retired yet, I have to ration  my
sewing 
time!)
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Kathy Bone" <bone@peoplepc.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Biblical weaving
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Does anyone here have information on the type of material and weave that was used during the ministry of Christ?
I am particularly interested in finding out more about the robe of Jesus that is mentioned in John 19:23.  I know one type article of clothing worn then was a khiton. However, this was Roman garb and I don't know if a Jewish peasant would have wore the same thing.
If anyone has any info or references for finding out that you would like to share, I'd really appreciate it. 
TIA - Kathy
bone@peoplepc.com
"Mountaineers Are Always Free"
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Greetings!

Although I did a fair bit of craft sewing, embroidery, and crochet from 
the time I was about eight, my first attempt at something historical-ish 
was in my senior year in high school, for my church's madrigal dinner.  
I was playing the head page who turns out to be an evil sorceress.  So I 
made a sort of fancy tunic thing and put glitter in my hair.  My next 
exposure--and first exposure to costume research--was for making some 
garments for the "human chessboard" my dorm used to do at the Ohio State 
Renaissance Fair.  This is where I learned such important things as:  
the hole for the head in a tunic is lower in front than in back, and 
upholstery velvet is a b*tch to sew sometimes :-)  The research 
consisted of going to the public library and looking at their one book 
on historical costume and deciding that "Byzantine" was the look I was 
going for.

My first serious attempts came my first year in grad school, when I 
joined the SCA.  Although my first garment was something I now refer to 
as the "Ostrogothic prom dress" (green taffeta bog-style gown), I "got 
better" fairly quickly, since being a history grad student did make me 
start glomming on to what was a good source and what wasn't fairly 
quickly. (The design of that first dress wasn't the issue--I just had no 
clue about fabric at the time....)

But I think I have to trace my interest in historical clothing back to 
the sixth grade, when we did "Shakespeare in the Schools."  I played Hamlet.

Susan
>   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Current projects
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 17:26:52 -0500
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I'm about to start teaching myself goldwork.  I've been doing embroidery 
since I was 7 or 8, so I'm hoping some of that will carry over, but it's a 
different enough technique that it all feels very new at the moment.  Right 
now, I'm trying to figure out what widths and lengths I need for the project 
I have in mind... sigh.  (One of those early 16thC Flemish hoods, which look 
like black half-circle veils with a gold edging along the front.) I _think_ 
I've at least managed to figure out which kinds of bullion, pearl purl, etc 
that I need, but despite my hoard of samples I'll probably only know for 
sure after I've wasted money on the wrong thing!  Once I've gotten the hang 
of it with that, I'm going to work on decorating a gown in goldwork, using 
designs from some of the early 16thC pattern/modelbuchs, or possibly copying 
from Holbein paintings.

I've just had my first MS attack, and am supposed to avoid physical and 
mental stress.  Luckily, it's very easy on me physically and mentally to lie 
on the couch and sew by hand! =}

-E "the glass is half full" House 

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 15:57:59 -0700
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snip
> My first serious attempts came my first year in grad school, when I joined 
> the SCA.  Although my first garment was something I now refer to as the 
> "Ostrogothic prom dress" (green taffeta bog-style gown), I "got better" 
> fairly quickly, since being a history grad student did make me start 
> glomming on to what was a good source and what wasn't fairly quickly. (The 
> design of that first dress wasn't the issue--I just had no clue about 
> fabric at the time....)
snip
> Susan

Oh, I love this description-----can I steal it?  My first SCA dress was made 
of stretch panne velvet, in a fitted coathardie style.  Again, the design 
wasn't half bad, I just didn't have the fabric sense I quickly gained. 
Strangely enough, that first dress, made 30 years ago, bore a strange 
resemblance to some of the costumes seen in the Lord of the Rings movies.

Melusine 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Current projects
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Status: RO

My current projects are:

2 17th cen. shirts, a turkish coat, and a doublet, all for a customer. The 
shirts need to be finished by Weds., I'd like to have the rest done by next 
week.

A pair of "goat leggings" out of a microfibre "fur" that really does look 
like goat hair, and a "pirate" coat.  These are for a second customer and 
need to be finished by June 1st.

I have a late renaissance loose coat cut out for myself, that I'd like to 
have done by the first weekend in June, since I'm going to a SCA event by 
myself and only have back lacing corsets.

I have also just recieved 5 yards of the fabric I want to use to decorate my 
studio.   http://zandsfabrics.com/item.asp?cID=155&scID=233&PID=2359 , only 
with pink corsets.  I'm also getting a pink and white, or pink, black and 
white stripe to go with it.  My husband is rolling his eyes over the pink, 
but he's relieved that it's only going to be in the studio, not all over the 
house.

Melusine

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Current projects
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Your post reminded me--I went to Powells yesterday and lucked into a
re-issue of Jane Lemon's _Metal Thread Embroidery_ (ooooooaaaaaahhhhh).
It's a trade paperback, gorgeous photos, $24.95 U.S. Not bad at all,
considering the quality of the book. Published by B. T. Batsford, ISBN 0
7134 8926 X.

Metal thread embroidery is one of those things I keep meaning to learn.
Now I have no excuses.

Good luck with the MS and the needlework!

Arlys



On Mon, 22 May 2006 17:26:52 -0500 "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
writes:
> I'm about to start teaching myself goldwork.  I've been doing 
> embroidery 
> since I was 7 or 8, so I'm hoping some of that will carry over, but 
> it's a 
> different enough technique that it all feels very new at the moment. 

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References: <20060520.081654.3968.0.Cley@juno.com><000801c67c51$38b7c280$21bfa6d8@pavilion><200605210015.03571.cathy@thyrsus.com><001301c67d52$8c9b0e00$18bfa6d8@pavilion><18FD3B7D-7E4E-40EA-97E9-78F598D1B9CA@alfalfapress.com><001c01c67d76$86c30ae0$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711><6.2.3.4.0.20060522100022.01e2d508@127.0.0.1><870801590605221043r548eedfid9dbba61469831b6@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.2.3.4.0.20060522191953.01e36af8@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] In an ideal "sewing" world..............
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 17:04:46 -0700
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My biggest daydream is to have someone to do the plain sewing.  I love the 
designing, the research, the patterning and even the initial cutting and 
testing a garment.  After I have it figured out, I don't want to do the 
sewing.  I love the finishing, especially fine details, but I'd love to have 
someone to do the boring parts.

I am actually looking into working with one of the local trade schools to 
have a student on an internship to do this.  There are certain tax breaks 
for their wages, and some other benefits, as well as getting the work done. 
I think I might be able to swing this next year.

Other than that, I want a bigger studio, or perhaps a separate room for the 
cutting, since my current studio handles the rest just fine.

Oh, and the fibromyalgia and arthritis could go away, too.

Melusine


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From: Galadriel Lothlorien <galadrielfinwe@yahoo.com>
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> The discussion about when and where you all started
> sewing seems to 
> show me that I am, so far, the only one who has no
> childhood 
> background of sewing.

Add me into that figure.  I was self-taught and
started at about 19 years old when I wanted a Star
Wars costume that wasn't crap, and didn't want to pay
a lot of money because I didn't have it, so I made my
own "Lady Han Solo" costume.  That year I ended up
making 4 Star Wars costumes, and after that, more Star
Wars and Lord of the Rings and Jane Austen events just
kept me going and going!  Now I'm working on my
graduate degree in costume technology.  Go figure!  I
always wanted to be a scientist.  You never know where
you're going to end up.

--Rachel

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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 10:12:04 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.0.20060522100022.01e2d508@127.0.0.1>


Oh, and coincidentally to the sewing conversation, we wondered if it 
was a given that costume makers, whether professional, gifted 
amateur, or occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know do.

Suzi


  
I have to come out of lurkdom to admit to being a costume designer and maker for
Theatre companies here and also having 2 cats. (I always have my fingers
crossed that no one in the cast is allergic!)

Janette in a chilly Canberra Australia







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I started sewing by age 9 or 10 - I remember begging my mother to let me
take a class at Sears in the summer when I was 12.  She made many of our
clothes when I was under age 8 or so.  I made all my long dresses for
whatever I needed them for in high school and college, but at that point my
costuming was only for Halloween parties.  I did not branch out of Halloween
costumes and regular clothing until I was about 30, when I found my first
Renaissance Festival, and discovered a need for more costumes.  Then I found
the SCA and a need for more costumes, and then started learning about
historical costume and another world opened up.  I also learned
crochet/knitting/embroidery/macramé about the same time as I learned sewing
(as a kid).  Now I'm back to some mundane clothing as well, and
incorporating some features of historic clothing into my mundane wear.
-Megan




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Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 21:21:34 -0400
From: Kristin <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this evening,
but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since the
fall:

 http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>

I'm procrastinating on the quilted petticoat again, by making a pair of
stays.  I guess I'll be finished with the binding within the next week and
will have to go back to quilting for a while.  My next procrastination
project is to make pockets... and then maybe start making another shift, but
of linen this time around... and then...

I'm so very happy to see that I'm not the only one who works on multiple
projects simultaneously.  It used to drive my ex nuts... but I guess he was
never around anyone else who had a creative streak in them!

Kristin



On 5/22/06, Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
>
> On Sunday 21 May 2006 11:48 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> > I think I'm right about where you are, garb-wise, Cathy.  My "laundry
> list"
> > wasn't really an indication of my Extreme Expertise and Skills, but more
> > like the results of being consitutionally incapable of project monogamy.
>
> Same here, which was part of my point.  However, you have attempted a
> wider
> variety of projects than I have (see below).
>
> > Deity help me, a couple of weeks ago, I was encountering my first power
> > tool (a drill press) in a friend's garage, learning to register
> soapstone
> > molds so I can carve the molds and make my own pewter buttons for fitted
> > gowns.
>
> Now anything that requires power tools is a bit farther than I've cared to
> go!
> I'm still waffling about using that sheet copper I bought to try to make a
> Viking style needlecase-and I can do that with only a dowel and a pair of
> pliers (and maybe crazy glue).
>
>
> > I'd love to hear more about you Lithuanian shawl!
>
> One of the things the lands along the Baltic seem to have in common
> (Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, parts of Finland, even Novogorod) is that the
> rich tended to ornament their clothes by working bronze coils and rings
> into
> them.  (Most of the 1st-10th c textile finds in those areas have survived
> because the bronze ornaments preserve a fair amount of the cloth.  Since
> most
> of the ornamentation was at the edges, you get a good idea of the size of
> the
> ornamented items.)
>
> Based on where the metal ornaments were found, it appears that there was a
> standard shawl size (roughly 30 inches by 40 inches).  The proper way to
> do
> the ornamentation would be to weave the shawl to order, and wrap strips of
> sheet bronze or bits of bronze wire around certain warp threads as I
> worked,
> but I'm not likely to learn how to weave  anything bigger than a
> tablet-woven
> belt anytime soon.  So what I'll probably do is kind of corkscrew pieces
> of
> copper wire into already woven wool (I have some nice wool melton cut and
> fringed for the purpose).  Then, I will make smaller coils of copper wire,
> string them onto a cord, and couch them onto each short end.
>
> Raymond's Quiet Press started making the kind of stick pins that (it has
> been
> theorized) were used to fasten these shawls.  There's a picture of the
> design
> here:
>
> http://www.quietpress.com/New2004.html
>
> (look under "new in October 2004"; it's the left-hand picture, the item on
> the
> far right).
>
> They were used in pairs, fastened together with bronze chains.  The pins
> attached to them are huge--as big as knitting needles (the same is true of
> the actual survivals Raymond's model is based upon).
>
> Having finally bought myself a pair from Raymond as a birthday present, my
> theory is that the pins were never meant to go through anything other than
> the shawl.  Once you fasten them to the shawl (I've already tried this)
> you
> can take the shawl off and on over your head  (really, really carefully,
> to
> make sure you don't gouge out your eyes) as a unit, without risking damage
> to
> the rest of your body or clothes.
>
> I have already finished most of the rest of the costume the shawl is to be
> worn with.  When I finally finish the shawl, I'll put a picture in the
> MedCos
> gallery and post the URL to it here.
>
>
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
> --General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)
>
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: OT--the Weather (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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On Monday 22 May 2006 4:13 am, Kate M Bunting wrote:
> You're lucky. It's cold and very wet in the UK (and I have my first camping
> event of the season next weekend!) 

It's been drier than usual here in Pennsylvania, but also colder than 
usual--it barely stayed warm enough for us to finish eating on Saturday.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: When and how did you start making costume?
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 21:11:19 -0400
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I made dresses for my Barbie dolls largely because my parents couldn't afford 
to buy lots of doll clothes for me, but my interest in historic costume dates 
to my adolescence, when I saw the Masterpiece Theater series "Six Wives of 
Henry VIII" on television.  I dove into histories of the period, to see how 
much of the series was based on fact, and branched out from there into 
costume history.

My mother sewed in a dress factory.  Her specialty was sewing on buttons, but 
she knew the basics of how to use a sewing machine and how to follow a simple 
pattern, and she helped me out with my first projects.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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[snip]
> I've never had a cat; I keep dwarf hamsters because (apart from being cute)
> they can look after themselves for a night or two when I'm away at weekend
> events. I hope to get a dog when I have more spare time!

P.S.  My father hated cats, and wouldn't allow us to have one; all of our pets 
when I was growing up were dogs.  Big dogs, like Labradors and Weimaraners.

But my mother liked all kinds of animals, and so did her second husband.  The 
pet they had the year they both died was a charming gray and white tabby, who 
is now my costuming companion.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 21:22:51 -0400
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On Monday 22 May 2006 3:42 pm, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
[snip]

> So, when I joined the SCA, sewing became the way to obtain the
> costumes I wanted. I think to this day I like "having made" something
> more than I like "making" it.

I am *so* with you there.  That is *exactly* why I sew, and if I could get 
exactly what I want without sewing it myself (and could afford to pay for it, 
of course) I would.  When I can, I do.

> I had to learn to make clothes without a 
> pattern (thanks Kass - and her reconstructinghistory website),
> something my mother wouldn't do. 

Something my mother *couldn't* do.  She sewed in a "sweatshop" for a living, 
and didn't really enjoy it.


> I learned mostly by reading mailing 
> lists and websites.

Ditto.

>
> I love thinking about projects, planning, researching, buying fabric
> and accessories, 

In agreement with you so far!

> washing, preparing and ironing the fabric, 

This part I can live without.

> but then I  
> get stuck because I HATE HATE HATE marking, pinning and cutting.
> Sometimes a project will sit in a box for years before I start because
> I just can't bring myself to lay it out and cut. 

Me too.  Though "hate" isn't quite the right word for the way I feel.  "Dread" 
is more like it.

> The sewing stage 
> itself doesn't bother me. It's not something I enjoy doing, but I
> don't hate it either. 

Ditto.

> Fitting doesn't bother me either, but fitting 
> myself is kind of a hassle - I really have to get a dress dummy at
> some point. 

There's a reason I seldom make styles that require any significant amounts of 
fitting....

> Then I get to the other part I love - hand-finishing. 
> Hemming, finishing the inside seams, all of that.

I don't mind doing hand-finishing--so long as there isn't too much of it, but 
I'm not wild about it either.  It's refreshing, hearing somebody else give 
vent to my pet peeves about costuming, for a change!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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When? 1994 or A.S. XXVIII, I was married and I wanted to be Elizabethan and
I did not know how to sew.  I priced some gowns in the marketplace, but they
were not authentic enough to please me nor was their price in my range of
life. 

I was living in An Tir, in Adiantum.  I was approached by a lady there, and
she said she would 'help' me to learn how to sew....and so I purchased a
Bernina older sewing machine for $75.00, but did not know how to use it! As
time went on I found out I was on this journey by myself, and I made a lot
of mistakes and tragic outfits.  My poor Hubby and kid looked pretty badly
most of the time! But I hung in there. I own a Husqvarna Designer SE now,
and I have had compliments on what comes from my sewing room....no longer
"Well it was a good effort" LOL!!!

I still want to do better, and I shall continue to strive!!!


Cilean

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Janette Humphrey
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 5:32 PM
To: 'h-costume@indra.com'
Subject: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?


------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 10:12:04 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.0.20060522100022.01e2d508@127.0.0.1>


Oh, and coincidentally to the sewing conversation, we wondered if it was a
given that costume makers, whether professional, gifted amateur, or
occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know do.

Suzi


  
I have to come out of lurkdom to admit to being a costume designer and maker
for Theatre companies here and also having 2 cats. (I always have my fingers
crossed that no one in the cast is allergic!)

Janette in a chilly Canberra Australia







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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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On Monday 22 May 2006 9:21 pm, Kristin wrote:
> Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this evening,
> but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since the
> fall:
>
> 
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<http://www
>.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>

Really neat.  I agree that the print may not be quite in the right scale for 
18th c, but the color scheme is beautiful and dead on.  Thanks for sharing!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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Status: RO

Beautiful !  Thanks for sharing.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On May 22, 2006, at 9:21 PM, Kristin wrote:

> Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this  
> evening,
> but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since  
> the
> fall:
>
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<http: 
> //www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>
>
> I'm procrastinating on the quilted petticoat again, by making a pair of
> stays.  I guess I'll be finished with the binding within the next week  
> and
> will have to go back to quilting for a while.  My next procrastination
> project is to make pockets... and then maybe start making another  
> shift, but
> of linen this time around... and then...
>
> I'm so very happy to see that I'm not the only one who works on  
> multiple
> projects simultaneously.  It used to drive my ex nuts... but I guess  
> he was
> never around anyone else who had a creative streak in them!
>
> Kristin
>
>
>
> On 5/22/06, Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
>>
>> On Sunday 21 May 2006 11:48 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>> > I think I'm right about where you are, garb-wise, Cathy.  My  
>> "laundry
>> list"
>> > wasn't really an indication of my Extreme Expertise and Skills, but  
>> more
>> > like the results of being consitutionally incapable of project  
>> monogamy.
>>
>> Same here, which was part of my point.  However, you have attempted a
>> wider
>> variety of projects than I have (see below).
>>
>> > Deity help me, a couple of weeks ago, I was encountering my first  
>> power
>> > tool (a drill press) in a friend's garage, learning to register
>> soapstone
>> > molds so I can carve the molds and make my own pewter buttons for  
>> fitted
>> > gowns.
>>
>> Now anything that requires power tools is a bit farther than I've  
>> cared to
>> go!
>> I'm still waffling about using that sheet copper I bought to try to  
>> make a
>> Viking style needlecase-and I can do that with only a dowel and a  
>> pair of
>> pliers (and maybe crazy glue).
>>
>>
>> > I'd love to hear more about you Lithuanian shawl!
>>
>> One of the things the lands along the Baltic seem to have in common
>> (Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, parts of Finland, even Novogorod) is  
>> that the
>> rich tended to ornament their clothes by working bronze coils and  
>> rings
>> into
>> them.  (Most of the 1st-10th c textile finds in those areas have  
>> survived
>> because the bronze ornaments preserve a fair amount of the cloth.   
>> Since
>> most
>> of the ornamentation was at the edges, you get a good idea of the  
>> size of
>> the
>> ornamented items.)
>>
>> Based on where the metal ornaments were found, it appears that there  
>> was a
>> standard shawl size (roughly 30 inches by 40 inches).  The proper way  
>> to
>> do
>> the ornamentation would be to weave the shawl to order, and wrap  
>> strips of
>> sheet bronze or bits of bronze wire around certain warp threads as I
>> worked,
>> but I'm not likely to learn how to weave  anything bigger than a
>> tablet-woven
>> belt anytime soon.  So what I'll probably do is kind of corkscrew  
>> pieces
>> of
>> copper wire into already woven wool (I have some nice wool melton cut  
>> and
>> fringed for the purpose).  Then, I will make smaller coils of copper  
>> wire,
>> string them onto a cord, and couch them onto each short end.
>>
>> Raymond's Quiet Press started making the kind of stick pins that (it  
>> has
>> been
>> theorized) were used to fasten these shawls.  There's a picture of the
>> design
>> here:
>>
>> http://www.quietpress.com/New2004.html
>>
>> (look under "new in October 2004"; it's the left-hand picture, the  
>> item on
>> the
>> far right).
>>
>> They were used in pairs, fastened together with bronze chains.  The  
>> pins
>> attached to them are huge--as big as knitting needles (the same is  
>> true of
>> the actual survivals Raymond's model is based upon).
>>
>> Having finally bought myself a pair from Raymond as a birthday  
>> present, my
>> theory is that the pins were never meant to go through anything other  
>> than
>> the shawl.  Once you fasten them to the shawl (I've already tried  
>> this)
>> you
>> can take the shawl off and on over your head  (really, really  
>> carefully,
>> to
>> make sure you don't gouge out your eyes) as a unit, without risking  
>> damage
>> to
>> the rest of your body or clothes.
>>
>> I have already finished most of the rest of the costume the shawl is  
>> to be
>> worn with.  When I finally finish the shawl, I'll put a picture in the
>> MedCos
>> gallery and post the URL to it here.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>>
>> "I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
>> --General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
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From: "margaret" <m.p.decker@att.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 23:08:53 -0500
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In about 1948 or 1949. I wanted to be a princess like the pictures in one of 
our books. Probably very styalised but thaniks to 4H training the costume 
passed mustard.
Margaret 


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Biblical weaving
Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 23:33:56 -0400
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On Monday 22 May 2006 5:32 pm, Kathy Bone wrote:
> Does anyone here have information on the type of material and weave that
> was used during the ministry of Christ? I am particularly interested in 
> finding out more about the robe of Jesus that is mentioned in John 19:23. 
> I know one type article of clothing worn then was a khiton. However, this
> was Roman garb and I don't know if a Jewish peasant would have wore the
> same thing. 

However, I read recently in a book on the Hogom find that late in antiquity 
(like the 4th c CE, say) cloaks in general were woven to size (usually, a 
specifically sized rectangle) throughout what had been the Empire, and were 
not cut to shape.  It seems likely that that was the practice in Roman areas 
in early times as well, since Roman and Greek clothing was not shaped to the 
body and thus did not have to be cut if it was woven properly to size.  When 
Jesus lived, Palestine was a Roman subject state, and probably used a similar 
weaving technology.  Even if the Jewish subjects used different weaving 
techniques, Roman-style cloaks were probably easy to find in all price 
ranges.

I also know that throughout what we now often call the Middle East (such as 
Egypt) horizontal looms fastened to the ground were typically used for 
weaving, and they could make cloth of practically any width since all you 
needed was a few more inches of ground.  

I'd suggest that you look for a good book on the history of looms and weaving 
to start with.  Good luck.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Biblical weaving
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At 08:33 PM 5/22/2006, you wrote:
>On Monday 22 May 2006 5:32 pm, Kathy Bone wrote:
> > Does anyone here have information on the type of material and weave that
> > was used during the ministry of Christ? I am particularly interested in
> > finding out more about the robe of Jesus that is mentioned in John 19:23.
> > I know one type article of clothing worn then was a khiton. However, this
> > was Roman garb and I don't know if a Jewish peasant would have wore the
> > same thing.
>
>However, I read recently in a book on the Hogom find that late in antiquity
>(like the 4th c CE, say) cloaks in general were woven to size (usually, a
>specifically sized rectangle) throughout what had been the Empire, and were
>not cut to shape.  It seems likely that that was the practice in Roman areas
>in early times as well, since Roman and Greek clothing was not shaped to the
>body and thus did not have to be cut if it was woven properly to size.  When
>Jesus lived, Palestine was a Roman subject state, and probably used a similar
>weaving technology.  Even if the Jewish subjects used different weaving
>techniques, Roman-style cloaks were probably easy to find in all price
>ranges.
>
>I also know that throughout what we now often call the Middle East (such as
>Egypt) horizontal looms fastened to the ground were typically used for
>weaving, and they could make cloth of practically any width since all you
>needed was a few more inches of ground.
>
>I'd suggest that you look for a good book on the history of looms and weaving
>to start with.  Good luck.
>
>--
>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

May I suggest that you look for "Prehistoric Textiles: The 
development of cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages, with special 
reference to the Aegean", by Elizabeth J. W. Barber, or her other 
book titled "Women's Work: the first 20,000 years".  The first is 
very scholarly and goes into great detail, but ends about the time 
that written records are predominant.  The second book is more for 
the non-scholar.  I have, and have repeatedly read, both of them.

The Romans and Greeks used the warp-weighted loom for their 
weaving.  The ground loom was prevalent in the dryer climates of 
Egypt and Mesopotamia.  By Roman times, the looms types were no 
longer so limited in their distribution, though the warp-weighted 
loom continued in use in Europe into the Middle Ages, and longer in 
some more peripheral areas (like in Scandinavia).

Unfortunately, the climate in Palestine as well as Europe is not very 
conducive to the survival of fabric over the centuries, unless it's a 
very special set of circumstances, so we have few remains to work from.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume? 
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Oh, forgot to say have two cats.

Had cats as a kid too, (along with the budgies, the canary, the rabbits, the 
dog, the hamsters, and the fish - surprizingley perhaps, none of the smaller 
non-feline animals ever came close to being eaten!).

Debs
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	<200605222115.15484.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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 I hope to get a dog when I have more spare time!
>
> P.S.  My father hated cats, and wouldn't allow us to have one; all of our 
> pets
> when I was growing up were dogs.  Big dogs, like Labradors and 
> Weimaraners.
>
> But my mother liked all kinds of animals, and so did her second husband. 
> The
> pet they had the year they both died was a charming gray and white tabby, 
> who
> is now my costuming companion.  :-)


I grew up with cats, so sometimes I miss them. But I don't miss litter 
boxes. I do mis having a dog, especially when I have three little boys here, 
and I firmly believe a boy should have a dog. When I buy a house, hopefully 
within the next year, I'm going to buy a dog. They want just a dog--I want a 
Sheltie, and I won't settle for anything else. That's what I grew up with, 
and that's what I want. They are the perfect dog--smart, gentle, and 
beautiful.

Dianne 

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	<200605222104.07855.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: OT--the Weather (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 08:14:58 -0400
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Hey Cathy, what end of the state do You live in?  We had rain on and off All
last week! (SW Pa.)
Costume content:  Pike Festival (Sorry, National Road Festival) Yard sales
from Addison, Pa. to Ohio line.  Found some very nice fabric scraps for
stomacher foundations.  Also unusual costume jewelry  for period
recreations.  Real find re antique children's/infant clothing.
All this between the clouds...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 9:04 PM
Subject: OT--the Weather (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)


> On Monday 22 May 2006 4:13 am, Kate M Bunting wrote:
> > You're lucky. It's cold and very wet in the UK (and I have my first
camping
> > event of the season next weekend!)
>
> It's been drier than usual here in Pennsylvania, but also colder than
> usual--it barely stayed warm enough for us to finish eating on Saturday.
>
>
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
> --General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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I began like a lot of folks here, by sewing for my Barbie. 
I grew up in a very rural area and my only neighbors within walking distance was a family with 18 kids - 10 of which were girls. None of us had money, but people from town always gave their family clothes. So, some of the ones they didn't use we cut up for Barbie clothes. We had real fur, satin, silk, velvet, etc.  Mom showed me the basics of stitching and I was off!  I was about nine. 
She taught me to use her sewing machine when I was about 10. I got my own at 17, when I got married.
Since then, I have made school play costumes, my brother-in-laws "Mountain Man" costume, two of my daughter's wedding gowns (one was Medieval), tons of street clothes, alterations, quilts, blah, blah, blah.
I must say of all the crafts I have learned in my life, sewing has given me the most pleasure, been the most thrifty and proved to be the most useful of all.

Kathy in WV 
"Mountaineers Are Always Free"
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Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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Lovely, Kristin! That flower print fabric is perfect for the style.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> kristinolivia@gmail.com 23/05/2006 02:21 >>>
Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this evening,
but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since the
fall:

 http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>




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Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> cathy@thyrsus.com 23/05/2006 02:22 >>>
>On Monday 22 May 2006 3:42 pm, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
>[snip]

>> So, when I joined the SCA, sewing became the way to obtain the
>> costumes I wanted. I think to this day I like "having made" something
>> more than I like "making" it.

>I am *so* with you there.  That is *exactly* why I sew, and if I could get 
>exactly what I want without sewing it myself (and could afford to pay for it, 
>of course) I would.  When I can, I do.

Me, too!


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
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> > So, when I joined the SCA, sewing became the way to obtain the
> > costumes I wanted. I think to this day I like "having made" something
> > more than I like "making" it.
>
> I am *so* with you there.  That is *exactly* why I sew, and if I could get
> exactly what I want without sewing it myself (and could afford to pay for
it,
> of course) I would.  When I can, I do.

I'm halfway between:) Physical limitations mean I would dearly love to have
someone else do the hard work for me;) But I'm a stubborn goat and want
things made by myself. I'm not exactly sure why, but I don't want to wear
something someone else made and be complimented about it, egotistical maybe,
more likely the ugly duckling syndrome and never feeling like I grew into a
swan;) On the other hand, I know my shape and what my body will and will not
look good in and it's usually not what someone else wants;) But that's half
design half construction methods.

> > I had to learn to make clothes without a
> > pattern (thanks Kass - and her reconstructinghistory website),
> > something my mother wouldn't do.

As for most things in this world I cannot find a single start. I can find
lots of events that lead to me taking up costuming as an art. As a kid I
drew pretty dresses and superhero costumes and occasionally made felt
animals, puppets, dolls etc and as a teen I was most inspired by two
costumer designers (Maria Bjornson and Eiko, worls apart yet both strive for
visualisation of character and mood) and dreamt about making things like
that eventually.

It wasn't until 1994 that I actually put fabric to machine to sew up a
costume rather than cobble it together or make something for a doll (OOAK
polymer clay dolls at that stage.)

And it wasn't until I got sick that I really got into production and to a
level I consider at least reasonable. Which is perhaps ironic given that I
have a degenerative joint disease and this sewing lark is only going to last
so long;)


Michaela de Bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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> >> So, when I joined the SCA, sewing became the way to obtain the
> >> costumes I wanted. I think to this day I like "having made" something
> >> more than I like "making" it.
>
> >I am *so* with you there.  That is *exactly* why I sew, and if I could get
> >exactly what I want without sewing it myself (and could afford to pay for it,
> >of course) I would.  When I can, I do.
>
> Me, too!
>

Ah, but I think I like saying people "I made it" a little too much. If
someone else did it, I'd have to say "She made it for me" and it just
wouldn't be the same ;-)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] In an ideal "sewing" world..............
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-Ideal sewing situation would be, not only an area just for my 
projects, but the imagination to do all of the wonderful things I see.  
My mother didn't start sewing until after I left home, so no chance of 
teaching me.  Most of what I know is self taught.  But in the SCA I 
have many great people who have supported my efforts to learn, and 
helped me not make a total mess of my projects.  So not only would I 
want the sewing space but to have been introduced to the wonderful 
world of recreation sooner. theresa


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From: Kristin <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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Status: RO

Thank you Catherine, Susan and Kate!

So if the pattern and colors are okay (but perhaps the scale a bit off), am
I okay for 1770's, or would the dress be a bit earlier?  I'm still so new to
this... and my idea was that I'd just go ahead and do it and figure out what
was wrong with it later.

Kristin



On 5/23/06, Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:
>
> Lovely, Kristin! That flower print fabric is perfect for the style.
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
> >>> kristinolivia@gmail.com 23/05/2006 02:21 >>>
> Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this evening,
> but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since the
> fall:
>
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>
>
>
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:When and how did you start making costumes?
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> I must say of all the crafts I have learned in my life, sewing has given
> me the most pleasure, been the most thrifty and proved to be the most useful
> of all.
>
> Kathy in WV
> "Mountaineers Are Always Free"



I had to laugh at this one, sewing has given me more pleasure than just
about anything else I've done, and while at times it has saved me money,
I've spent more of my money on cloth and sewing supplies, so I can't call it
a thrifty hobby.

alex
I can quit sewing any time I want.  I just don't want to...
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Sorry to hear you are under the weather, hope you feel better soon,

theresa

-----Original Message-----
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sat, 20 May 2006 20:17:23 +0200
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!

  Hi,
 How nice for you, that is lovely. Please keep us updated with this!

  Bjarne who is not well at the moment. Had a knee operation yesterday, 
and have many pains today, but it will be fine again soon.
  
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
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All I can say is wow!!! please put up pictures of your projects.  thanks
theresa

-----Original Message-----
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sat, 20 May 2006 15:06:09 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??

  Sure! Always! <giggle>
I've got a variety of things going at the moment, some of them 
peripherally
(sp?) associated with historical costuming, in that they're 
fiber-related.
I'm preparing wool and yarns at the moment (getting them ready for a 
weekend
natural dyeing workshop next weekend), and some of that will become
historical clothing and accessories.  I've got myself about a pound of
lovely, loosely-plied unmercerized (natural-colored) cotton, half of 
which
is going to get indigo'd but *good,* with the idea of making Mamluke
stockings from it.  I have about three pounds of a 2-ply 
fingering-weight
wool that has been mordanted, and which I'll dye with indigo, 
cochineal, and
a blend (not sure if I want purple or green ;o).  3 separate batches, 
that
yarn, and it will make different pairs of 16th century stockings
(English/Irish).
I'm also processing a couple of raw fleeces, with the aim of spinning it
myself and making woven fabric from it for a couple of earlier-SCA 
period
outfits.  One of the fleeces is a Romney, which is a more modern breed 
of
sheep, but I lucked out *hugely* with it, and it's such a nice fleece, 
it
just *needs* to be made into a garment.  I have something like 6? 7? 
pounds
of it, and if my spinning can do it justice, it'll become a tunic done 
in a
broken lozenge twill.
I'm also making a few new sets of (Western Norse/Danish, 10th c.) garb, 
all
in linen and wool.  Don't have the time to handsew them entirely, 
though.
I've got a deadline on those, because the single largest regional event 
for
my SCA area is coming up in early June.
Oh, and I *am* working on a handsewn 12th century (Norman) outfit, using
ideas I got from reading Robin's article of a few years ago.....
What's going on in your neck of the costuming world?
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??


> Thanks, Sue. :-)
>
> Feel like discussing latest projects?
>
> Arlys
>
> On Sat, 20 May 2006 08:48:46 -0600 "Sue Clemenger" 
<mooncat@in-tch.com>
> writes:
> > You came through just fine, Arlys.  At least, on my end.
> > I think it's just really quiet....
> > --Sue, checking email before heading out to the gardens.....
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 8:10 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] hello out there??
> >
> >
> > > Hi all. Have recieved nothing from this list since yesterday
> > (Friday)
> > > morning. Everything ok?
> > >
> > > Arlys
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 23 11:26:17 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 17:25:28 +0200
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Why is it that the website tells me the album doesnt excist.
I would have loved to see.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)


> Lovely, Kristin! That flower print fabric is perfect for the style.
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
>>>> kristinolivia@gmail.com 23/05/2006 02:21 >>>
> Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this evening,
> but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since the
> fall:
>
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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I would if I could, but I don't have a website or blog or anything. ;o(
I've always been intrigued by the great websites some of our list members
have (and some of the others I've seen, too), and especially wonderful
things like dress diaries, which I find especially fascinating and
enlightening.
But thanks for the "wow."  As I said to someone else, it's more a factor of
just not being able to handle project monogamy--sort of a craftsman's
version of ADD.  I'm forever getting bored with what I'm doing and wandering
off to tinker with something else.  I restrict myself to 8 or 10 active
projects, and kinda circulate among them, and when one is finished, I slip
in another one.  ;o)
--sue

----- Original Message -----
From: <theresathreadgi@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 9:20 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??


> All I can say is wow!!! please put up pictures of your projects.  thanks
> theresa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sat, 20 May 2006 15:06:09 -0600
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there??
>
>   Sure! Always! <giggle>
> I've got a variety of things going at the moment, some of them
> peripherally
> (sp?) associated with historical costuming, in that they're
> fiber-related.

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I started doing small hand sewing when I was a kid.  Never made doll clothes, but did make myself a purse out of an old pair bluejeans.  Then in highschool I had 5 years of home economics; ½ time sewing and half cooking.  I don't always use a pattern the right way, but I try to sew it together the way it will fit the person I am making it for.  I have made myself a couple of costumes, but would rather sew for others.  So far I have done them as gifts.  I am not good enough to sell them and lately haven't had the time to even turn around.  Ask Suzi lol...will send out some pictures sometime to see what you guys think...
 
Rhonda
 
Rhonda Donaldson
LTA II
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Access Services 
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P O Box 6069
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rhonda.donaldson@mail.wvu.edu
 
"Beware how you pass judgement on your superiors at least until you know
how to put yourself in their place and see from their view."
 
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 Weiner's Law of Libraries: There are no answers, only
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I do have cats too

 
 
Rhonda Donaldson
LTA II
e-Reserves Jr. Guru 
Access Services 
Downtown Campus Library
P O Box 6069
Morgantown, WV
26506
293-4040 x4094
rhonda.donaldson@mail.wvu.edu
 
"Beware how you pass judgement on your superiors at least until you
know
how to put yourself in their place and see from their view."
 
"Without change, something sleeps inside us, and seldom
awakens. The sleeper must awaken."
--Frank Herbert
 
 Weiner's Law of Libraries: There are no answers, only
cross-references.

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From: Kristin <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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I don't know why that happened.  Here's the link again:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q

I need to start my own website, instead of just using the Kodak site, but
then it's where I upload my pictures and order the prints.


On 5/23/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>
> Why is it that the website tells me the album doesnt excist.
> I would have loved to see.
>
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 2:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
>
>
> > Lovely, Kristin! That flower print fabric is perfect for the style.
> >
> > Kate Bunting
> > Librarian and 17th century reenactor
> >
> >>>> kristinolivia@gmail.com 23/05/2006 02:21 >>>
> > Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this
> evening,
> > but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since
> the
> > fall:
> >
> > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

coltide.com has them and acid free garment boxes too

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 5/22/2006 3:47:42 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] acid free tissue paper
>
> I've been clearing my mother's house (she is now in a nursing home) and
have 
> found some vintage garments. I know you are supposed to store such things
in 
> acid-free tissue paper, but have no idea what kind of shops sell such
paper. 
> Any suggestions?
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
> Hi Kate.
> Here in Denmark we have a nice shop that sells all kinds of papers for 
> offices, and also arts papers. They carry the acid free tissue paper, so
if 
> you have a shop like that, try and ask them!
> You could also try some bookshops, perhaps?
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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Status: RO

Thank you so much for resending I just thought it was my school 
computer being difficult again.  The pictures are fantastic you have 
done an absolutely lovely job.  Again thanks for sharing.

Theresa

-----Original Message-----
From: Kristin <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tue, 23 May 2006 12:50:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)

  I don't know why that happened. Here's the link again:

 http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q

  I need to start my own website, instead of just using the Kodak site, 
but
 then it's where I upload my pictures and order the prints.

 On 5/23/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
 >
 > Why is it that the website tells me the album doesnt excist.
 > I would have loved to see.
 >
 > Bjarne
 >
 > ----- Original Message -----
 > From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
 > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
 > Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 2:51 PM
 > Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
 >
 >
  > > Lovely, Kristin! That flower print fabric is perfect for the 
style.
 > >
 > > Kate Bunting
 > > Librarian and 17th century reenactor
 > >
 > >>>> kristinolivia@gmail.com 23/05/2006 02:21 >>>
 > > Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this
 > evening,
  > > but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on 
since
 > the
 > > fall:
 > >
 > > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<
 > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>
 > >
 > >
 > >
 > >
 > > _______________________________________________
 > > h-costume mailing list
 > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
 > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 > >
 >
 >
 > _______________________________________________
 > h-costume mailing list
 > h-costume@mail.indra.com
 > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 >
 _______________________________________________
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 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

   
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Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 10:00:00 -0400
From: Kristin <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: OT--the Weather (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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We just finished up with some very heavy rains here in Eastern PA... and now
it's chilly!

On 5/23/06, Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
>
> Hey Cathy, what end of the state do You live in?  We had rain on and off
> All
> last week! (SW Pa.)
> Costume content:  Pike Festival (Sorry, National Road Festival) Yard sales
> from Addison, Pa. to Ohio line.  Found some very nice fabric scraps for
> stomacher foundations.  Also unusual costume jewelry  for period
> recreations.  Real find re antique children's/infant clothing.
> All this between the clouds...
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 9:04 PM
> Subject: OT--the Weather (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
>
>
> > On Monday 22 May 2006 4:13 am, Kate M Bunting wrote:
> > > You're lucky. It's cold and very wet in the UK (and I have my first
> camping
> > > event of the season next weekend!)
> >
> > It's been drier than usual here in Pennsylvania, but also colder than
> > usual--it barely stayed warm enough for us to finish eating on Saturday.
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> >
> > "I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
> > --General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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I'm currently working on a wedding party. I'm doing doublets for the groom and two ushers.

I'm also slowly but surely gathering fabrics for my Elizabethan gown.

Natalie
"The only twelve-step program I want to be in, is the 12 steps from my fabric to my sewing machine"
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] fabric question
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Hi.
I have this brokade wich i told you about before. Its a cotton/rayon 
dressing brokade.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/brm.htm
I noticed a dress in the Dangerous Liasions catalogue, wich looks very 
similar, in colour and texture. But is this pattern two victorian to use for 
18th century?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Hi Kristin,
That worked. Oh its lovely. How beautifull you made the quilting, and the 
fabric you have for the polonaise, is so lovely.
Thanks for sharing

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kristin" <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)


I don't know why that happened.  Here's the link again:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q

I need to start my own website, instead of just using the Kodak site, but
then it's where I upload my pictures and order the prints.


On 5/23/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>
> Why is it that the website tells me the album doesnt excist.
> I would have loved to see.
>
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 2:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
>
>
> > Lovely, Kristin! That flower print fabric is perfect for the style.
> >
> > Kate Bunting
> > Librarian and 17th century reenactor
> >
> >>>> kristinolivia@gmail.com 23/05/2006 02:21 >>>
> > Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this
> evening,
> > but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since
> the
> > fall:
> >
> > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] In an ideal "sewing" world..............
Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 13:20:56 -0700
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Where do you live? I help a friend of mine when she's doing shows, and I
don't mind the plain stuff.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Carmen Beaudry
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 5:05 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] In an ideal "sewing" world..............


My biggest daydream is to have someone to do the plain sewing.  I love the 
designing, the research, the patterning and even the initial cutting and 
testing a garment.  After I have it figured out, I don't want to do the 
sewing.  I love the finishing, especially fine details, but I'd love to have

someone to do the boring parts.

I am actually looking into working with one of the local trade schools to 
have a student on an internship to do this.  There are certain tax breaks 
for their wages, and some other benefits, as well as getting the work done. 
I think I might be able to swing this next year.

Other than that, I want a bigger studio, or perhaps a separate room for the 
cutting, since my current studio handles the rest just fine.

Oh, and the fibromyalgia and arthritis could go away, too.

Melusine


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Subject: RE: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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I keep getting "album not found" 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 7:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)


Beautiful !  Thanks for sharing.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too
fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark Trail" by
Louis L'Amour

On May 22, 2006, at 9:21 PM, Kristin wrote:

> Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this
> evening,
> but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since  
> the
> fall:
>
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<http:
> //www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>
>
> I'm procrastinating on the quilted petticoat again, by making a pair 
> of stays.  I guess I'll be finished with the binding within the next week
> and
> will have to go back to quilting for a while.  My next procrastination
> project is to make pockets... and then maybe start making another  
> shift, but
> of linen this time around... and then...
>
> I'm so very happy to see that I'm not the only one who works on
> multiple
> projects simultaneously.  It used to drive my ex nuts... but I guess  
> he was
> never around anyone else who had a creative streak in them!
>
> Kristin
>
>
>
> On 5/22/06, Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
>>
>> On Sunday 21 May 2006 11:48 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>> > I think I'm right about where you are, garb-wise, Cathy.  My
>> "laundry
>> list"
>> > wasn't really an indication of my Extreme Expertise and Skills, but
>> more
>> > like the results of being consitutionally incapable of project
>> monogamy.
>>
>> Same here, which was part of my point.  However, you have attempted a 
>> wider variety of projects than I have (see below).
>>
>> > Deity help me, a couple of weeks ago, I was encountering my first
>> power
>> > tool (a drill press) in a friend's garage, learning to register
>> soapstone
>> > molds so I can carve the molds and make my own pewter buttons for
>> fitted
>> > gowns.
>>
>> Now anything that requires power tools is a bit farther than I've
>> cared to
>> go!
>> I'm still waffling about using that sheet copper I bought to try to  
>> make a
>> Viking style needlecase-and I can do that with only a dowel and a  
>> pair of
>> pliers (and maybe crazy glue).
>>
>>
>> > I'd love to hear more about you Lithuanian shawl!
>>
>> One of the things the lands along the Baltic seem to have in common 
>> (Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, parts of Finland, even Novogorod) is
>> that the
>> rich tended to ornament their clothes by working bronze coils and  
>> rings
>> into
>> them.  (Most of the 1st-10th c textile finds in those areas have  
>> survived
>> because the bronze ornaments preserve a fair amount of the cloth.   
>> Since
>> most
>> of the ornamentation was at the edges, you get a good idea of the  
>> size of
>> the
>> ornamented items.)
>>
>> Based on where the metal ornaments were found, it appears that there
>> was a
>> standard shawl size (roughly 30 inches by 40 inches).  The proper way  
>> to
>> do
>> the ornamentation would be to weave the shawl to order, and wrap  
>> strips of
>> sheet bronze or bits of bronze wire around certain warp threads as I
>> worked,
>> but I'm not likely to learn how to weave  anything bigger than a
>> tablet-woven
>> belt anytime soon.  So what I'll probably do is kind of corkscrew  
>> pieces
>> of
>> copper wire into already woven wool (I have some nice wool melton cut  
>> and
>> fringed for the purpose).  Then, I will make smaller coils of copper  
>> wire,
>> string them onto a cord, and couch them onto each short end.
>>
>> Raymond's Quiet Press started making the kind of stick pins that (it
>> has
>> been
>> theorized) were used to fasten these shawls.  There's a picture of the
>> design
>> here:
>>
>> http://www.quietpress.com/New2004.html
>>
>> (look under "new in October 2004"; it's the left-hand picture, the
>> item on
>> the
>> far right).
>>
>> They were used in pairs, fastened together with bronze chains.  The
>> pins
>> attached to them are huge--as big as knitting needles (the same is  
>> true of
>> the actual survivals Raymond's model is based upon).
>>
>> Having finally bought myself a pair from Raymond as a birthday
>> present, my
>> theory is that the pins were never meant to go through anything other  
>> than
>> the shawl.  Once you fasten them to the shawl (I've already tried  
>> this)
>> you
>> can take the shawl off and on over your head  (really, really  
>> carefully,
>> to
>> make sure you don't gouge out your eyes) as a unit, without risking  
>> damage
>> to
>> the rest of your body or clothes.
>>
>> I have already finished most of the rest of the costume the shawl is
>> to be
>> worn with.  When I finally finish the shawl, I'll put a picture in the
>> MedCos
>> gallery and post the URL to it here.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>>
>> "I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish." --General 
>> Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 16:32:20 -0400
From: Kristin <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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I think the link has repeated itself and is getting squished together twice
in a row... maybe that's why it's seems to having that issue.  In any case,
here's the link again:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q


On 5/23/06, Sharon at Collierfam.com <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
>
> I keep getting "album not found"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
> Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 7:56 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
>
>
> Beautiful !  Thanks for sharing.
>
> Susan
>
> "Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too
> fast and you miss all you are traveling for". - "Ride the Dark Trail" by
> Louis L'Amour
>
> On May 22, 2006, at 9:21 PM, Kristin wrote:
>
> > Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this
> > evening,
> > but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since
> > the
> > fall:
> >
> > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q




<http:
> > //www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>
> >
> > I'm procrastinating on the quilted petticoat again, by making a pair
> > of stays.  I guess I'll be finished with the binding within the next
> week
> > and
> > will have to go back to quilting for a while.  My next procrastination
> > project is to make pockets... and then maybe start making another
> > shift, but
> > of linen this time around... and then...
> >
> > I'm so very happy to see that I'm not the only one who works on
> > multiple
> > projects simultaneously.  It used to drive my ex nuts... but I guess
> > he was
> > never around anyone else who had a creative streak in them!
> >
> > Kristin
> >
> >
> >
> > On 5/22/06, Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> On Sunday 21 May 2006 11:48 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> >> > I think I'm right about where you are, garb-wise, Cathy.  My
> >> "laundry
> >> list"
> >> > wasn't really an indication of my Extreme Expertise and Skills, but
> >> more
> >> > like the results of being consitutionally incapable of project
> >> monogamy.
> >>
> >> Same here, which was part of my point.  However, you have attempted a
> >> wider variety of projects than I have (see below).
> >>
> >> > Deity help me, a couple of weeks ago, I was encountering my first
> >> power
> >> > tool (a drill press) in a friend's garage, learning to register
> >> soapstone
> >> > molds so I can carve the molds and make my own pewter buttons for
> >> fitted
> >> > gowns.
> >>
> >> Now anything that requires power tools is a bit farther than I've
> >> cared to
> >> go!
> >> I'm still waffling about using that sheet copper I bought to try to
> >> make a
> >> Viking style needlecase-and I can do that with only a dowel and a
> >> pair of
> >> pliers (and maybe crazy glue).
> >>
> >>
> >> > I'd love to hear more about you Lithuanian shawl!
> >>
> >> One of the things the lands along the Baltic seem to have in common
> >> (Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, parts of Finland, even Novogorod) is
> >> that the
> >> rich tended to ornament their clothes by working bronze coils and
> >> rings
> >> into
> >> them.  (Most of the 1st-10th c textile finds in those areas have
> >> survived
> >> because the bronze ornaments preserve a fair amount of the cloth.
> >> Since
> >> most
> >> of the ornamentation was at the edges, you get a good idea of the
> >> size of
> >> the
> >> ornamented items.)
> >>
> >> Based on where the metal ornaments were found, it appears that there
> >> was a
> >> standard shawl size (roughly 30 inches by 40 inches).  The proper way
> >> to
> >> do
> >> the ornamentation would be to weave the shawl to order, and wrap
> >> strips of
> >> sheet bronze or bits of bronze wire around certain warp threads as I
> >> worked,
> >> but I'm not likely to learn how to weave  anything bigger than a
> >> tablet-woven
> >> belt anytime soon.  So what I'll probably do is kind of corkscrew
> >> pieces
> >> of
> >> copper wire into already woven wool (I have some nice wool melton cut
> >> and
> >> fringed for the purpose).  Then, I will make smaller coils of copper
> >> wire,
> >> string them onto a cord, and couch them onto each short end.
> >>
> >> Raymond's Quiet Press started making the kind of stick pins that (it
> >> has
> >> been
> >> theorized) were used to fasten these shawls.  There's a picture of the
> >> design
> >> here:
> >>
> >> http://www.quietpress.com/New2004.html
> >>
> >> (look under "new in October 2004"; it's the left-hand picture, the
> >> item on
> >> the
> >> far right).
> >>
> >> They were used in pairs, fastened together with bronze chains.  The
> >> pins
> >> attached to them are huge--as big as knitting needles (the same is
> >> true of
> >> the actual survivals Raymond's model is based upon).
> >>
> >> Having finally bought myself a pair from Raymond as a birthday
> >> present, my
> >> theory is that the pins were never meant to go through anything other
> >> than
> >> the shawl.  Once you fasten them to the shawl (I've already tried
> >> this)
> >> you
> >> can take the shawl off and on over your head  (really, really
> >> carefully,
> >> to
> >> make sure you don't gouge out your eyes) as a unit, without risking
> >> damage
> >> to
> >> the rest of your body or clothes.
> >>
> >> I have already finished most of the rest of the costume the shawl is
> >> to be
> >> worn with.  When I finally finish the shawl, I'll put a picture in the
> >> MedCos
> >> gallery and post the URL to it here.
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> >>
> >> "I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish." --General
> >> Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 16:34:19 -0400
From: Kristin <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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Thank you!  It's so nice to "hear" other sewers (I don't consider myself a
costumer at this point) admire my work.

I hope you are doing well after your surgery, Bjarne!

Kristin


On 5/23/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>
> Hi Kristin,
> That worked. Oh its lovely. How beautifull you made the quilting, and the
> fabric you have for the polonaise, is so lovely.
> Thanks for sharing
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kristin" <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 6:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
>
>
> I don't know why that happened.  Here's the link again:
>
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q
>
> I need to start my own website, instead of just using the Kodak site, but
> then it's where I upload my pictures and order the prints.
>
>
> On 5/23/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> >
> > Why is it that the website tells me the album doesnt excist.
> > I would have loved to see.
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 2:51 PM
> > Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
> >
> >
> > > Lovely, Kristin! That flower print fabric is perfect for the style.
> > >
> > > Kate Bunting
> > > Librarian and 17th century reenactor
> > >
> > >>>> kristinolivia@gmail.com 23/05/2006 02:21 >>>
> > > Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this
> > evening,
> > > but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since
> > the
> > > fall:
> > >
> > > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<
> > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
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Subject: Re: OT--the Weather (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kristin" <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: OT--the Weather (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)


We just finished up with some very heavy rains here in Eastern PA... and now
it's chilly!

A group of us Eastern PA fiber geeks had gotten together on Saturday to dye 
fabric and fibers, and we were intending to make a felted wool rug--had the 
frame set up and everything--but it was just too blasted cold to get that 
wet and messy. Quite annoying, really, I really wanted to learn how to do 
that!

Dianne


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Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 16:34:51 -0400
From: Kristin <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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Status: RO

Thank you, Theresa!

On 5/23/06, theresathreadgi@aol.com <theresathreadgi@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Thank you so much for resending I just thought it was my school
> computer being difficult again.  The pictures are fantastic you have
> done an absolutely lovely job.  Again thanks for sharing.
>
> Theresa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kristin <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tue, 23 May 2006 12:50:01 -0400
> Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
>
> I don't know why that happened. Here's the link again:
>
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q
>
> I need to start my own website, instead of just using the Kodak site,
> but
> then it's where I upload my pictures and order the prints.
>
> On 5/23/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> >
> > Why is it that the website tells me the album doesnt excist.
> > I would have loved to see.
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 2:51 PM
> > Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
> >
> >
> > > Lovely, Kristin! That flower print fabric is perfect for the
> style.
> > >
> > > Kate Bunting
> > > Librarian and 17th century reenactor
> > >
> > >>>> kristinolivia@gmail.com 23/05/2006 02:21 >>>
> > > Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this
> > evening,
> > > but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on
> since
> > the
> > > fall:
> > >
> > > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<
> > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 17:00:21 -0400
Organization: Five Rivers
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Subject: [h-cost] In the spirit of current projects
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Status: RO

	I'm working on two new jackets for myself for modern wear, both of
which are inspired by historical garments. One is based on a Jacobean style
jacket with embroidery design from the Baroque Era, and stitches common to
Elizabethan Black-work. The other is based on an early Baroque style men's
frock coat, with Baroque embroidery design and stitches. I'm very excited
about both and thought I'd share:

http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/p_916.html

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Subject: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
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Would the kind individual who wrote me about blackwork please do so
again? Your letter was accidentally deleted, for which I apologize. :(

Arlys
Cley@juno.com
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s4731387.000@cluster1-gwise3-server.derby.ac.uk><000901c67e7d$219c9700$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711><33a78bfb0605230950j460a710dk3291d14d4ebd2096@mail.gmail.com><002b01c67e98$7f0153c0$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
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Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)bjarnes knee
Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 00:28:44 +0200
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Hi Kristin,
Oh thanks for your concern. Yes i am feeling much better now, and i have 
told my job that i will be back 1st. of june.
I remooved my bandages and the knee looks good, but its still a little 
swollen.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kristin" <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)


Thank you!  It's so nice to "hear" other sewers (I don't consider myself a
costumer at this point) admire my work.

I hope you are doing well after your surgery, Bjarne!

Kristin


On 5/23/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>
> Hi Kristin,
> That worked. Oh its lovely. How beautifull you made the quilting, and the
> fabric you have for the polonaise, is so lovely.
> Thanks for sharing
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kristin" <kristinolivia@gmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 6:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
>
>
> I don't know why that happened.  Here's the link again:
>
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q
>
> I need to start my own website, instead of just using the Kodak site, but
> then it's where I upload my pictures and order the prints.
>
>
> On 5/23/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> >
> > Why is it that the website tells me the album doesnt excist.
> > I would have loved to see.
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 2:51 PM
> > Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
> >
> >
> > > Lovely, Kristin! That flower print fabric is perfect for the style.
> > >
> > > Kate Bunting
> > > Librarian and 17th century reenactor
> > >
> > >>>> kristinolivia@gmail.com 23/05/2006 02:21 >>>
> > > Well, I haven't had a chance to upload recent pictures until this
> > evening,
> > > but here's a link to the late 1700's outfit I've been working on since
> > the
> > > fall:
> > >
> > > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q<
> > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=jq8t100.nqqmx58&x=0&y=-tik0q>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Subject: [h-cost] God and fabric stashers....
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A fellow stasher shared this with me and I knew some of you would just love it!


"I'm this way with fabric: if there are 7 yards or more, it's a sign
God loves me.  If there are barely 7 yards, it's a sign He loves me so
much, He wants me to be frugal with His blessings.  If there are only
about 5.5-6 yards, it's a sign He loves me so much, He trusts I'll use
the creativity He gave me, and cut it very clever.  If it's less than
1 yard, it's a sign He wants me to add to my quilt stash.

Any way you look at it, He loves me, and I love fabric."

Sg
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] God and fabric stashers....
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Perfect- Divine Inspiration!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On May 23, 2006, at 7:19 PM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> A fellow stasher shared this with me and I knew some of you would just 
> love it!
>
>
> "I'm this way with fabric: if there are 7 yards or more, it's a sign
> God loves me.  If there are barely 7 yards, it's a sign He loves me so
> much, He wants me to be frugal with His blessings.  If there are only
> about 5.5-6 yards, it's a sign He loves me so much, He trusts I'll use
> the creativity He gave me, and cut it very clever.  If it's less than
> 1 yard, it's a sign He wants me to add to my quilt stash.
>
> Any way you look at it, He loves me, and I love fabric."
>
> Sg
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: OT--the Weather (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 19:05:50 -0400
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On Tuesday 23 May 2006 8:14 am, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> Hey Cathy, what end of the state do You live in?  We had rain on and off
> All last week! (SW Pa.)

I live about 25 miles northwest of Philadelphia, so I'm in the far southeastern corner.  They promised us that last week would be nearly non-stop rain, but we ended mostly with sunshine anyway.  (And drought warnings).  :-(

> Costume content:  Pike Festival (Sorry, National Road Festival) Yard sales
> from Addison, Pa. to Ohio line.  Found some very nice fabric scraps for
> stomacher foundations.  Also unusual costume jewelry  for period
> recreations.  Real find re antique children's/infant clothing.
> All this between the clouds...

Sounds neat, but that end of the state is a 5 hour drive for me, and I haven't had time to make it yet.  (I do have friends in Pittsburgh, now, so I do have an excuse to go, at least).  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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On Tuesday 23 May 2006 9:13 am, michaela wrote:
[snip]
>
> I'm halfway between:) Physical limitations mean I would dearly love to have
> someone else do the hard work for me;) But I'm a stubborn goat and want
> things made by myself. I'm not exactly sure why, but I don't want to wear
> something someone else made and be complimented about it, egotistical
> maybe, more likely the ugly duckling syndrome and never feeling like I grew
> into a swan;) On the other hand, I know my shape and what my body will and
> will not look good in and it's usually not what someone else wants;) But
> that's half design half construction methods.

In my case, making it myself often means that it will be made less sturdily 
than someone else would make it--another reason I would rather buy than sew.  
That isn't always the case, though, and the process of determining whether I 
can make a particular item more satisfactorily than I could buy it is, for 
me, often a source of fun.


[snip]

> And it wasn't until I got sick that I really got into production and to a
> level I consider at least reasonable. Which is perhaps ironic given that I
> have a degenerative joint disease and this sewing lark is only going to
> last so long;)

Or maybe your persistence at doing something you love will help you beat the 
odds.... Good luck.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] In the spirit of current projects
Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 20:54:26 -0400
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Status: RO

WOW- thanks for sharing.

You folks are all so talented!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On May 23, 2006, at 5:00 PM, Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:

>     I'm working on two new jackets for myself for modern wear, both of
> which are inspired by historical garments. One is based on a Jacobean 
> style
> jacket with embroidery design from the Baroque Era, and stitches 
> common to
> Elizabethan Black-work. The other is based on an early Baroque style 
> men's
> frock coat, with Baroque embroidery design and stitches. I'm very 
> excited
> about both and thought I'd share:
>
> http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/p_916.html
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted 
> cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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On Tuesday 23 May 2006 5:00 pm, Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:
> 	I'm working on two new jackets for myself for modern wear, both of
> which are inspired by historical garments. One is based on a Jacobean style
> jacket with embroidery design from the Baroque Era, and stitches common to
> Elizabethan Black-work. The other is based on an early Baroque style men's
> frock coat, with Baroque embroidery design and stitches. I'm very excited
> about both and thought I'd share:
>
> http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/p_916.html

I'm impressed.  You do lovely work!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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On Tuesday 23 May 2006 9:55 am, Kristin wrote:
> Thank you Catherine, Susan and Kate!
>
> So if the pattern and colors are okay (but perhaps the scale a bit off), am
> I okay for 1770's, or would the dress be a bit earlier?  I'm still so new
> to this... and my idea was that I'd just go ahead and do it and figure out
> what was wrong with it later.

I don't have the chronology of styles nailed down in my head for the 18th 
century the way I do for the Victorian era or for, say, Italian Renaissance.  
My impression is that your dress is closer to the 1760s, but I could be wrong 
about that.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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>>Theresa wrote
But in the SCA I have many great people who have supported my efforts to
learn, and helped me not make a total mess of my projects.  So not only
would I want the sewing space but to have been introduced to the wonderful
world of recreation sooner. <<

***********

Here Here!!!!

If it were not for my wonderous friends? I would be sitting in Faire Garb my
entire life! LOL Not that Faire Garb is bad, it is just I wanted the big
giant gorgeous gowns that made people swoon. So I am so very glad and happy
to have met lovely people in which to play and learn from!

Cilean



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-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of h-costume-request@indra.com
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2006 2:03 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 425


Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
    h-costume@mail.indra.com

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or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: dvd codes (Elizabeth Walpole)
   2. Onto Something (Kathy Page)
   3. Re: Disaster! (shilo@srclink.net)
   4. Re: Onto Something (E House)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 16:05:26 +1000
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dvd codes
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <006b01c67b0a$39b01bd0$c5d4f5dc@user4712b7d135>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=original

>
> Yes!
>
> Mine has 4 more switches left.
>
> Isn't this all bogus! Just why can't we watch what we want????

Because it means they can cut down competition and therefore make more
profit. And why should they care about their customers? :-P
Elizabeth



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 01:25:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
Subject: [h-cost] Onto Something
To: Historical Costume List <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Message-ID: <20060519082520.65672.qmail@web52113.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

just not sure what, exactly.

I am finally getting around to webbing my Bella Nani documentation. While
doing so, several photos I have that didn't make it into the competition
paper were being prepped for uploading when it hit me: the pattern on those
sleeves were finally familiar.

I had recently flipped through several digitised lacemaking and embroidery
pattern books. In particular, one German (dated 1527), one Venezia(dated
1561). I noted at the time the repeating knotwork motif that occurs. I have
uploaded all these images onto a page:
http://outoftheattic.homeip.net/Sleeve_Theory.html Please pardon the margin
issues, it's rather late.

For whatever reason, 2+2 suddenly added to 4: Veronese was possibly using
those pattern books as embellishment inspiration. Some were so close that I
could practically say with confidence that was the actual pattern used. I
compared the other two with the same sleeve style, and sure enough, they too
match with stunning familiarity.

I thought perhaps that Veronese had designed some pattern books. It seemed
logical, he has a tendancy toward strong architectural environments in his
paintings. Upon a very cursory search of the net, there is no known
connection between Paolo Caliari and embroidery designs. But... I did find
out that his younger brother, Benedetto was the one who tended toward the
grandiose architecture in the backgrounds. His sons, Carlo (or Carletto) and
Gabriele, along with Benedetto, were all occupied with finishing Paolo's
paintings after his death.

I have to wonder if these paintings were not done entirely by Paolo himself,
but his brother in particular had a hand in designing them, adding into them
a geometric, architectural element by using embroidery pattern books?
Benedetto in his own right has frescoes attributed to him at Villa Cornaro,
and Villa Gradenigo, and shares attribution with Paolo for San Sebastiano,
which accounts for each of these common sources. Having taken a look at
Carlo and Benedetto's works, there are few differences in style and
composition. Maybe this is what accounts for the relative novelty of these
paintings?

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed
vert a lion's head erased gules.

Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eslais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.
http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131






------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 06:51:30 -0400
From: "" <shilo@srclink.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Disaster!
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <E1Fh2Zu-0005tb-66@webmail07.yourhostingaccount.com>
Content-Type: text/plain

Further note on Biz: You can place your project in Biz for as long as you
would like. Just swish it gently every so often and change out the water for
a fresh solution when it changes color. It can literally soak for a few days
without hurting the fabric!

Megh E.



On Wed, 17 May 2006 12:02 , h-costume-request@indra.com sent:

>
>Message: 1
>Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 20:05:29 -0600
>From: "Sue Clemenger" mooncat@in-tch.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Disaster!
>To: "Historical Costume" h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: bebfa6d8@pavilion>
>Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> .....................There's a fairly common laundry treatment called
"Biz"
>that you dissolve in hot water and use to soak your items.  I put my poor
>coif through two separate soaks, and a good wash, and it's almost 100%
clear
>of the pink stain.......................
>Good luck!
>--Sue
>





------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 09:51:17 -0500
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Onto Something
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <001201c67b53$b09ed8a0$9000a8c0@compaqub>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=original

Yep, that sleeve definitely seems to match the bottom second image on the
last row from the patternbooks!  But, are you certain that the sleeve is
invented?  Perhaps the lady's dressmaker is the one with the patternbook.

-E House




------------------------------

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End of h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 425
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In a message dated 5/24/2006 8:38:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,  
picmajik@aol.com writes:

h-costume-owner@mail.indra.com



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There was most likely several of us. Was I one?  SCA Blackwork Laurel.
Studied for 22 years.

On 5/23/06, Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote:
>
> Would the kind individual who wrote me about blackwork please do so
> again? Your letter was accidentally deleted, for which I apologize. :(
>
> --
> Aspasia Moonwind
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It looks like it could pass for 1500s/16th century.
De

-----Original Message-----
Hi.
I have this brokade wich i told you about before. Its a cotton/rayon
dressing brokade.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/brm.htm
I noticed a dress in the Dangerous Liasions catalogue, wich looks very
similar, in colour and texture. But is this pattern two victorian to use for
18th century?

Bjarne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Biblical weaving
References: <003f01c67de7$45255630$b55d8841@yourbes5v9ftq9>
	<200605222333.56588.cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Hi. There is a Roman poncho (unfortunately dated about the date of the 
Hogom find) in the University of Pennsylvania Museum. When last I was 
there it was out of it's case for conservation, but I would suggest that 
someone there at the Museum could help you out, as they have a large 
collection of Middle Eastern and Roman era artifacts. Good luck, Mike T.

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>On Monday 22 May 2006 5:32 pm, Kathy Bone wrote:
>  
>
>>Does anyone here have information on the type of material and weave that
>>was used during the ministry of Christ? I am particularly interested in 
>>finding out more about the robe of Jesus that is mentioned in John 19:23. 
>>I know one type article of clothing worn then was a khiton. However, this
>>was Roman garb and I don't know if a Jewish peasant would have wore the
>>same thing. 
>>    
>>
>
>However, I read recently in a book on the Hogom find that late in antiquity 
>(like the 4th c CE, say) cloaks in general were woven to size (usually, a 
>specifically sized rectangle) throughout what had been the Empire, and were 
>not cut to shape.  It seems likely that that was the practice in Roman areas 
>in early times as well, since Roman and Greek clothing was not shaped to the 
>body and thus did not have to be cut if it was woven properly to size.  When 
>Jesus lived, Palestine was a Roman subject state, and probably used a similar 
>weaving technology.  Even if the Jewish subjects used different weaving 
>techniques, Roman-style cloaks were probably easy to find in all price 
>ranges.
>
>I also know that throughout what we now often call the Middle East (such as 
>Egypt) horizontal looms fastened to the ground were typically used for 
>weaving, and they could make cloth of practically any width since all you 
>needed was a few more inches of ground.  
>
>I'd suggest that you look for a good book on the history of looms and weaving 
>to start with.  Good luck.
>
>  
>
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	<e135879a0605241042i7888b640o30426a7035676fa1@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
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Oh, cool! There's another one of us! ;o)
--sue, who got laureled for blackwork, she thinks (wierd peerage
ceremony...what can I say?)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bonnie Booker" <aspasia1@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person


> There was most likely several of us. Was I one?  SCA Blackwork Laurel.
> Studied for 22 years.
>
> On 5/23/06, Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote:
> >
> > Would the kind individual who wrote me about blackwork please do so
> > again? Your letter was accidentally deleted, for which I apologize. :(
> >
> > --
> > Aspasia Moonwind
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] Yippee!!
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OOOooooh, you got it!   Can I come over on Monday?

<VBEG>

Mary

Kate/Ailith said:

My copy of Moda a Firenze arrived in today's mail!!!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] In the spirit of current projects
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I love these pieces.  And your descriptions add to the beauty of the items.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 5:00 PM
Subject: [h-cost] In the spirit of current projects


> I'm working on two new jackets for myself for modern wear, both of
> which are inspired by historical garments. One is based on a Jacobean
style
> jacket with embroidery design from the Baroque Era, and stitches common to
> Elizabethan Black-work. The other is based on an early Baroque style men's
> frock coat, with Baroque embroidery design and stitches. I'm very excited
> about both and thought I'd share:
>
> http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/p_916.html
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
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Subject: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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Here is an article about the film--it was booed at Cannes.  We  Americans 
will have to wait until October to see it--our European friends will  see it 
sooner.
 
One scene features shoes designed by Manolo Blahnik!  Costume designer  
Milena Canonero (who did "Chariots of Fire" and "Barry Lyndon") "used the  18th 
century as her inspirational template but then went way contempo."  
 
The music is also described, as we discussed when Bjarne showed us the  
trailer.
 
_http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/05/24/AR20060524028
21.html_ 
(http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/05/24/AR2006052402821.html) 
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 14:35:07 +0200
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Hi
Wasnt it also Milena who did the affair of the necklace?
I liked her costumes for this, very nice.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 2:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette


> Here is an article about the film--it was booed at Cannes.  We  Americans
> will have to wait until October to see it--our European friends will  see 
> it
> sooner.
>
> One scene features shoes designed by Manolo Blahnik!  Costume designer
> Milena Canonero (who did "Chariots of Fire" and "Barry Lyndon") "used the 
> 18th
> century as her inspirational template but then went way contempo."
>
> The music is also described, as we discussed when Bjarne showed us the
> trailer.
>
> _http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/05/24/AR20060524028
> 21.html_
> (http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/05/24/AR2006052402821.html)
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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In a message dated 5/25/2006 8:35:42 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Wasnt it  also Milena who did the affair of the necklace?
I liked her costumes for  this, very nice.



**************
 
Yes. Her stuff I find is usually very interesting. Sometimes it works  better 
than at other times. I mean she's got "Barry Lyndon", "Clockwork  Orange" and 
"Titus"... definitely an interesting designer. But there's  bound to be a 
miss somewhere. 
 
I love Sandy Powell's costumes too but you also get hits ["Interview with  
the Vampire", "Shakespeare in Love", "Velvet Goldmine"] and misses ["Gangs of  
New York"] with her.
 
Both designers like to push the envelope, so to speak. That can be  
exciting...but dangerous.
 
It's a shame, IMHO, that filmmakers think they have to make Mozart a rock  
star and Marie a Paris Hilton to make their stories "relevant" for modern  
audiences.
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On Wed, 24 May 2006 23:04:42 -0600 "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
writes:
> Oh, cool! There's another one of us! ;o)
> --sue, who got laureled for blackwork, she thinks (wierd peerage
> ceremony...what can I say?)


Pray tell? :-)

Arlys

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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I would like to see the film, but living in Omaha, NE, I may have to
wait for the video. It may be one of the films I watch just to see where
accuracy in history and costuming goes out the window in favor of
present-day esthetics. But sometimes those movies are fun, anyway.

I did preorder the book about the making of the film from Amazon.com,
but wonder now if it will even be published, stateside, if the movie
promises to tank.

I wonder if the movie will be tinkered with between what was seen at
Cannes and what we may see in October.  From the brief clips and the
online preview it looks as though the costumes are fairly accurate, but
amped up in glamour to look attractive to present-day eyes. And, of
course, there's nary a speck of dust to be seen!

Cindy Abel


 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> Here is an article about the film--it was booed at Cannes.  We  Americans 
> will have to wait until October to see it--our European friends will  see it 
> sooner.


      "I didn't want to do a historical epic," Coppola said ...

      What she wanted was "an impressionist portrait," a retelling based 
           	on Lady Antonia Fraser's best-selling revisionist biography...




Well, at least they aren't pretending it's an accurate and true 
re-telling of the events, like some other films have done.



Dawn

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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] acid free tissue paper
Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 15:03:46 -0400
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Ask museums where they get theirs.

Kate
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Silvara
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 3:52 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] acid free tissue paper

coltide.com has them and acid free garment boxes too

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 5/22/2006 3:47:42 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] acid free tissue paper
>
> I've been clearing my mother's house (she is now in a nursing home)
and
have 
> found some vintage garments. I know you are supposed to store such
things
in 
> acid-free tissue paper, but have no idea what kind of shops sell such
paper. 
> Any suggestions?
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
> Hi Kate.
> Here in Denmark we have a nice shop that sells all kinds of papers for

> offices, and also arts papers. They carry the acid free tissue paper,
so
if 
> you have a shop like that, try and ask them!
> You could also try some bookshops, perhaps?
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] acid free tissue paper
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hiya all.
   
  I would like some comments from embroiderers on this list on a book I have made. The pics can be seen in my livejournal
   
  http://tania-gru.livejournal.com/
   
   
  I don't have anyone nearby to talk embroidery with, and would like some feedback and suggestions to improve.
   
  Tania

		
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I order mine from Talas:
http://www.talasonline.com/ 

Be sure and get the Unbuffered. Buffered tissue can cause damage on protein
fibers (silk, wool, leather).

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Pinner
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 2:04 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] acid free tissue paper

Ask museums where they get theirs.

Kate
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Silvara
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 3:52 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] acid free tissue paper

coltide.com has them and acid free garment boxes too

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 5/22/2006 3:47:42 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] acid free tissue paper
>
> I've been clearing my mother's house (she is now in a nursing home)
and
have 
> found some vintage garments. I know you are supposed to store such
things
in 
> acid-free tissue paper, but have no idea what kind of shops sell such
paper. 
> Any suggestions?
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
> Hi Kate.
> Here in Denmark we have a nice shop that sells all kinds of papers for

> offices, and also arts papers. They carry the acid free tissue paper,
so
if 
> you have a shop like that, try and ask them!
> You could also try some bookshops, perhaps?
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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In a message dated 5/25/2006 10:48:20 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu writes:

And,  of
course, there's nary a speck of dust to be  seen!



***************
 
And, like with "The Affair of the Necklace"...the anorexic court of Louis  
XVI.
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On 5/25/06, Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
>
> Oh, cool! There's another one of us! ;o)
> --sue, who got laureled for blackwork, she thinks (wierd peerage
> ceremony...what can I say?)
>
> "Blackwork, Lace, Costuming, and a myrid of other things." Some 15 years
> ago.  And you?
> --
> Aspasia Moonwind
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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Hi,
I believe i read somewhere that Marie Antoinette, replaced all her maids of 
honnour with young and pretty ladys same age as herself, and skipped the 
oldfashioned and ugly famillies from her court. Many of the old an 
honnourable famillies was shocked and angry about this, but she really did.
Now i dont know if those young new ladies were anorexic, but you are right 
about it looked a little monotone in the movie.
Marie Antoinette herself were not anorexic looking at all, she had a litttle 
chubby look herself.
For those of you who really would like to read a book about her, i warmly 
recomend to read Stefan Zweigs book "Marie Antoinette" I dont think any have 
ever got that close to the past as he did with this.

Bjarne who often wished he could have ben a fly in her dressing room.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 11:47 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette


>
> In a message dated 5/25/2006 10:48:20 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu writes:
>
> And,  of
> course, there's nary a speck of dust to be  seen!
>
>
>
> ***************
>
> And, like with "The Affair of the Necklace"...the anorexic court of Louis
> XVI.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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At 23:18 25/05/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>I believe i read somewhere that Marie Antoinette, replaced all her 
>maids of honnour with young and pretty ladys same age as herself, 
>and skipped the oldfashioned and ugly famillies from her court. Many 
>of the old an honnourable famillies was shocked and angry about 
>this, but she really did.
>Now i dont know if those young new ladies were anorexic, but you are 
>right about it looked a little monotone in the movie.
>Marie Antoinette herself were not anorexic looking at all, she had a 
>litttle chubby look herself.
>For those of you who really would like to read a book about her, i 
>warmly recomend to read Stefan Zweigs book "Marie Antoinette" I dont 
>think any have ever got that close to the past as he did with this.
>
>Bjarne who often wished he could have ben a fly in her dressing room.


There is a supposed bodice of hers in Corsets and Crinolines or Cut 
of Women's Clothes - too lazy to go and check. And if it really was 
hers, anorexic she wasn't - well developed is more a phrase I would 
have used, or Noel Coward's very telling "She's a "Big" girl"!

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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In a message dated 5/25/2006 6:10:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

"...the  anorexic court of Louis  
XVI.



According to the article, at least not Louis himself.  He is described  as 
"pudgy," and Jason Schwartzman gained 45 pounds for the role.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yippee!!
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> My copy of Moda a Firenze arrived in today's mail!!!
>
> I'm so excited!! There are portraits that I've never seen in it AND 
> there's a page-sized image of the portrait of Laudomia de Medici as well.

Colour? Wow... I've been looking for THAT for years... looked through books 
and books and books and couldn't find it... 

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Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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> I'm so very happy to see that I'm not the only one who works on multiple
> projects simultaneously.  It used to drive my ex nuts... but I guess he 
> was
> never around anyone else who had a creative streak in them!

I simply CAN NOT work on only one thing at once. Eventually I get bored and 
just sit in front of the TV feeling bad about sitting there doing nothing. 
Or if I'm unsure of how to proceed with a project, I'll need to let it sit 
for a few weeks.

Right now, I'm planning to do my Master's Degree directed work (like a 
thesis, but shorter) - it's translation work, but I'm translating patterns 
so it's related. I'm also planning on working with FIMO to do fake ivory (a 
small casket and a weaving tool). I'm taking Mandarine lessons, reading 
Chinese books, watching Chinese movies and reading travel guides for a trip 
in the Fall. I'm still planning to get started on my black Elizabethan some 
time this summer, I also have to sew a pavillion cover for a lady in our 
Barony, and I have to make a few basic clothing items such as hose, hoods 
and wool tunics for cold weather. I'm also doing some cardweaving, knitting 
a scarf and a pair of socks, working on FIMO jewelry and trying to finish 
watching the 3rd season of 24 so I can give it back to my friend. I also do 
archery in my Barony. And I have to make padded bags to store the Baronial 
thrones.

Well... I'm simply not going to be able to finish everything this summer!!! 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
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Status: RO

I was laureled back when Artemisia was still a fairly young principality in
Atenveldt, and with one (very inactive) exception, am actually the "oldest"
laurel in the whole state of Montana.  Blackwork (and other forms of
counted-thread embroidery) grabbed me really, really fast, and a year or so
after I first joined, I set out to do what I thought would be a relatively
simple project.  Clear graphs, basic Holbein stitch, good linen and black
silk thread.  My first big project, pretty much all self-taught because
there just wasn't anyone, for 100s of miles, doing anything even remotely
similar.  I reproduced the cuffs on the Holbein portrait of Queen Jane.  On
60 count linen.  And loved it.  And have been doing it ever since.
At any rate, peerages back then were pretty much all drive-by's, with a
little more attention paid to the Chiv.  No warning, no special outfits, no
vigils, nada.  Wham, bam, thank you ma'am...next? sort of thing.  The day I
got nabbed was at an event with really horrible, muddy weather, and I knew
*something* was up, because someone who'd been trying to get my whole name
down (spelling and pronunciation) was a little TOO obvious.  (My SCA name is
in an older form of Irish, and it's long, and pretty unpronouncable to most
Sasenachs ;o).  Court that night was held in a small building, without
electricity, just a few coleman lanterns.  My reaction, when I realized it
was me, and what they were doing, was pretty much "oh, shit!"  (in a nice
way).  The scroll was a marker-colored photocopy on some sort of dreadful
fake parchment, the ink of which ran in the rain that weekend.  The king and
queen, who happened to be from the Sun and also happened to be the same
people who'd given me an AoA a couple of years before, were later banished
from the Society.  I am moderately sure I'm mostly a blackwork laurel
because that was one thing mentioned in the ceremony, although I was really
involved in other things as well (late period costuming, primarily, and some
cooking).  It's just that I'm mostly known for itsy-bitsy blackwork.  I
adore the simplicity and clarity of monochrome embroidery, and would really
love to do some extended research into the various forms it takes in
different ethnic groups--contrasting, say, the different styles of early and
late 16th century England, with Spanish, and German, and Italian, and
French, and all of the loverly, loverly Islamic stuff...*sigh* ;o)
I should add, my Pelican ceremony (that's a service award, for you
non-SCAers) was even stranger.  I seem to attract weirdness.  (in a nice
way)
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person


>
>
> On Wed, 24 May 2006 23:04:42 -0600 "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> writes:
> > Oh, cool! There's another one of us! ;o)
> > --sue, who got laureled for blackwork, she thinks (wierd peerage
> > ceremony...what can I say?)
>
>
> Pray tell? :-)
>
> Arlys
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 21:16:54 -0600
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Blackwork, I think.  It wasn't specified.  I was also heavily into
late-period European costuming and food.
These days, it's expanded into lace (a little), various textile arts, early
and middle-period European costuming, more food, and in my non-SCA time, a
dabble of 18th century costuming, which I'd love to spend more time with,
but have no local groups to play with.
Oh, and learning to crochet so I can make a Mrs Weasley cardigan.  ;o)
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bonnie Booker" <aspasia1@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person


> On 5/25/06, Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
> >
> > Oh, cool! There's another one of us! ;o)
> > --sue, who got laureled for blackwork, she thinks (wierd peerage
> > ceremony...what can I say?)
> >
> > "Blackwork, Lace, Costuming, and a myrid of other things." Some 15 years
> > ago.  And you?
> > --
> > Aspasia Moonwind


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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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	<04cd01c6806b$fdeb7380$0302a8c0@p4audrey>
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 21:22:46 -0600
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What kind of fimo jewelry are you doing? I've seen some really interesting
pieces--the lady on this list who lives in Germany (Dierdre? probably
mangling her name...) did some great bits, a while back for a partlet, IIRC.
I've always been kind of intrigued with the idea of playing with some of the
stuff that's got real metal in it.  Would be nice for tokens for tourneys
and such....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)


 I'm also doing some cardweaving, knitting
> a scarf and a pair of socks, working on FIMO jewelry and trying to finish
> watching the 3rd season of 24 so I can give it back to my friend. I also
do
> archery in my Barony. And I have to make padded bags to store the Baronial
> thrones.
>
> Well... I'm simply not going to be able to finish everything this
summer!!!


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Subject: Re: Current projects (was Re: [h-cost] hello out there??)
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Status: RO

> What kind of fimo jewelry are you doing?

Very modern, bright-coloured stuff, for the moment. I'm planning on doing a 
few period pieces eventually though. There's a book I've heard about "Make 
your own antique jewelry" or something similar that I really need to get my 
hands on at some point.

> I've seen some really interesting
> pieces--the lady on this list who lives in Germany (Dierdre? probably
> mangling her name...) did some great bits, a while back for a partlet, 
> IIRC.

Yes, and it was very, very beautiful.

> I've always been kind of intrigued with the idea of playing with some of 
> the
> stuff that's got real metal in it.  Would be nice for tokens for tourneys
> and such....

Well, for one thing, you need a pottery oven to bake it. Regular FIMO goes 
in a regular baking oven, but the metal stuff needs much higher temps. And 
it's far from cheap.

If I ever do something of the kind though, I'll most likely make it out of 
regular FIMO and then use one of the very convincing metallic paints over 
it, or even real silver or gold foil. Hey, it's a period technique, after 
all - using foil, I mean, not FIMO :-)

> --Sue

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You could do worse than checking out this company

They supply boxes and tissue for storage of all sorts of stuff, including 
museum archives, and wedding dresses:
http://www.memories-nostalgia.com/acatalog/sitemap.html

And this company devised a selection of boxes in conjunction with the V&A 
textiles dept:
http://www.emptybox.co.uk/about.asp

Debbie
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Status: RO

  I reproduced the cuffs on the Holbein portrait of Queen 
> Jane.  On 60 count linen.  

Oh my! What was your stitch to ground ratio?


And loved it.  And have been doing it ever since.
> At any rate, peerages back then were pretty much all drive-by's, 
> with a
> little more attention paid to the Chiv.  No warning, no special 
> outfits, no
> vigils, nada.  Wham, bam, thank you ma'am...next? sort of thing.  
> The day I
> got nabbed was at an event with really horrible, muddy weather, and 
> I knew
> *something* was up, because someone who'd been trying to get my 
> whole name
> down (spelling and pronunciation) was a little TOO obvious.  (My SCA 
> name is
> in an older form of Irish, and it's long, and pretty unpronouncable 
> to most
> Sasenachs ;o).  Court that night was held in a small building, 
> without
> electricity, just a few coleman lanterns.  My reaction, when I 
> realized it
> was me, and what they were doing, was pretty much "oh, shit!"  (in a 
> nice
> way).  The scroll was a marker-colored photocopy on some sort of 
> dreadful
> fake parchment, the ink of which ran in the rain that weekend.  The 
> king and
> queen, who happened to be from the Sun and also happened to be the 
> same
> people who'd given me an AoA a couple of years before, were later 
> banished
> from the Society.  

How bizarre.


I am moderately sure I'm mostly a blackwork 
> laurel
> because that was one thing mentioned in the ceremony, although I was 
> really
> involved in other things as well (late period costuming, primarily, 
> and some
> cooking).  It's just that I'm mostly known for itsy-bitsy blackwork. 
>  I
> adore the simplicity and clarity of monochrome embroidery, and would 
> really
> love to do some extended research into the various forms it takes in
> different ethnic groups--contrasting, say, the different styles of 
> early and
> late 16th century England, with Spanish, and German, and Italian, 
> and
> French, and all of the loverly, loverly Islamic stuff...*sigh* ;o)

I'm with you. Blackwork has zip nada zilch to do with my persona, but I
love its crispness and surprisingly simple elegance--it's just a matter
of breaking down the pattern elements. Have you found any evidence of
blackwork (in any permutation) in England prior to the Tudors?

> I should add, my Pelican ceremony (that's a service award, for you
> non-SCAers) was even stranger.  I seem to attract weirdness.  (in a 
> nice way)
> --Sue

Time for another storytelling. :-) I was Pel'd sitting down (I can't
kneel), for "I suffer from a surfiet of height whereas Her Majesty does
not." My "circlet" was a beautiful scholar's hood, and Her Majesty had to
be able to reach!

Arlys

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Subject: [h-cost] online portfolios, resumes, etc
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Status: RO

I currently have my portfolio online but want to spice it up a little 
in adding a cover page, photo, other info.  Do any of you out there 
have such online portfolios/resumes that I could look at just for some 
style suggestions?  WHile I am very creative at costuming, I kind of 
draw a blank at graphic design and could just use some ideas.

Sylrog

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Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 16:34:07 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] online portfolios, resumes, etc
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At 16:23 26/05/2006, you wrote:
>I currently have my portfolio online but want to spice it up a 
>little in adding a cover page, photo, other info.  Do any of you out 
>there have such online portfolios/resumes that I could look at just 
>for some style suggestions?  WHile I am very creative at costuming, 
>I kind of draw a blank at graphic design and could just use some ideas.
>
>Sylrog



As I am a professional costume maker, I have a web site. 
www.suziclarke.co.uk  Is this the kind of thing you mean? My clever 
geek son made it for me. (But I can modify it!!)

Suzi 


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Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 11:39:13 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] acid free tissue paper - sources
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Status: RO

>Ask museums where they get theirs.

The photo dept at the Smithsonian uses Light Impressions.
    www.lightimpressionsdirect.com
I started buying there for protective sleeves & archival boxes for my
large collection of vintage photos and 19th c fashion plates.  There's
also liner paper & buffered boxes for fabric storage up to quilt
sizes.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] fabric support
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Hi,
I wondered if any have suggestions i could use to "stiffen" a fabric. I am 
talking about that cotton/viscose damask weawed fabric wich i baught a lot 
of.
It is a little two heavy when draping. I wondered if there might be any 
fabrics i could use to line it with, to help it get more support.
I am planning a francaise dress with this, and thoaght about maybe to use a 
quilted petticoat over the hip panniers, to hide the sharp edges of the 
bones.
Do you think perhaps a organza fabric would help the fabric to get more body 
to it?
Any other suggestions.
I am determined to use this fabric, as i otherwise didnt know what to do 
with it, and i thoaght it would be a waste, not to use it. Maybe the 
finished dress would be ok?
Its not a big pannier dress, only small hip panniers, inspired by the dress 
in Dangerous Liasions, the woman playing the harp.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
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.
> Oh, and learning to crochet so I can make a Mrs Weasley cardigan.  ;o)
> --Sue

Oh, now THAT I want to see!!

Crochet is easy. Knitting drives me completely around the bend. I know how 
to do, but I hate it. It seems to take too long. (Said by the woman whose 
first crochet project was a filet lace wall hanging, about 15x20, in size 30 
thread.)

Dianne 

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From: Marie Schnoor <mcschnoor@comcast.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
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Status: RO

Oh  man, I have to totally dissagree with you there! Crochet just makes 
me feel like a fish in a net! I start off with that wee hook thing and 
loop it around and I end up tying my toes together... somehow...

But knitting, that's orderly and straightforward.

I always say, it's like being a Beatles fan or and Elvis fan; most 
people I know are either one or the other. I don't know anyone who can 
do both knit and crochet.

I do, however, agree with the Mrs. Weasley cardigan. :D

Marie

>
> .
>
>> Oh, and learning to crochet so I can make a Mrs Weasley cardigan.  ;o)
>> --Sue
>
>
> Oh, now THAT I want to see!!
>
> Crochet is easy. Knitting drives me completely around the bend. I know 
> how to do, but I hate it. It seems to take too long. (Said by the 
> woman whose first crochet project was a filet lace wall hanging, about 
> 15x20, in size 30 thread.)
>
> Dianne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
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Marie Schnoor wrote:
> Oh  man, I have to totally dissagree with you there! Crochet just 
> makes me feel like a fish in a net! I start off with that wee hook 
> thing and loop it around and I end up tying my toes together... 
> somehow...
>
> But knitting, that's orderly and straightforward.
>
> I always say, it's like being a Beatles fan or and Elvis fan; most 
> people I know are either one or the other. I don't know anyone who can 
> do both knit and crochet.

I can.  I learned to crochet as a child, but only taught myself to knit 
a few years ago.  Knitting is _so_ much easier to mess up and so much 
harder to fix when you do.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------


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Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 21:42:20 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] knitting, sewing, tatting was in search of a lost person
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At 20:55 26/05/2006, you wrote:
>Oh  man, I have to totally dissagree with you there! Crochet just 
>makes me feel like a fish in a net! I start off with that wee hook 
>thing and loop it around and I end up tying my toes together... somehow...
>
>But knitting, that's orderly and straightforward.
>
>I always say, it's like being a Beatles fan or and Elvis fan; most 
>people I know are either one or the other. I don't know anyone who 
>can do both knit and crochet.

I do both, but I'm d*mned if I can get my head round tatting. I've 
got books, diagrams, everything, but I always end up with a knot on 
the wrong thread.

Suzi


>I do, however, agree with the Mrs. Weasley cardigan. :D
>
>Marie
>
>>
>>.
>>
>>>Oh, and learning to crochet so I can make a Mrs Weasley cardigan.  ;o)
>>>--Sue
>>
>>
>>Oh, now THAT I want to see!!
>>
>>Crochet is easy. Knitting drives me completely around the bend. I 
>>know how to do, but I hate it. It seems to take too long. (Said by 
>>the woman whose first crochet project was a filet lace wall 
>>hanging, about 15x20, in size 30 thread.)


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   Main question is 1. Do you laugh every day? Yes/No
    2. How many times a day? 1-5, 5-10 or more
    3. Gender? Maler or Female
    4. Do you laugh more in a group or alone?
    5. How does it make you feel? Happy, Tired, Rejuvinated or other
    6. Where do you laugh more: at home or at work?
    7. Where are you located? US or Europe or (somewhere else and say where)
    8. Do you laugh more with others or at others? (Such as laughing at a =
    joke or laughing when someone falls down/slapstick comedy)
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Forgot one... 9. Age group: <20, 20-30, 30-40, 40-50, 50+...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume-request@indra.com>; "Historical Costume" 
<h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 5:37 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Survey questions


   Main question is 1. Do you laugh every day? Yes/No
    2. How many times a day? 1-5, 5-10 or more
    3. Gender? Maler or Female
    4. Do you laugh more in a group or alone?
    5. How does it make you feel? Happy, Tired, Rejuvinated or other
    6. Where do you laugh more: at home or at work?
    7. Where are you located? US or Europe or (somewhere else and say where)
    8. Do you laugh more with others or at others? (Such as laughing at a =
    joke or laughing when someone falls down/slapstick comedy)
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Survey questions
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Becky wrote:
>    Main question is 1. Do you laugh every day? Yes/No
>     2. How many times a day? 1-5, 5-10 or more
>     3. Gender? Maler or Female
>     4. Do you laugh more in a group or alone?
>     5. How does it make you feel? Happy, Tired, Rejuvinated or other
>     6. Where do you laugh more: at home or at work?
>     7. Where are you located? US or Europe or (somewhere else and say where)
>     8. Do you laugh more with others or at others? (Such as laughing at a =
>     joke or laughing when someone falls down/slapstick comedy)
> _______________________________________________
>   

What does this have to do with historic costuming?

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
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Marie wrote:
> But knitting, that's orderly and straightforward...
> I don't know anyone who can do both knit and crochet.

I'm with you.  I can knit, standing up in the subway even, but I can't 
crochet worth a damn.  I end up with a twisty thing that won't lie flat.

Now my grandmother could do both, sort of a human perpetual motion machine. 
Annual output: 2 sweaters each per son and grandchild, 1 per daughter-in-law 
and other miscellaneous extended family, plus hats, scarves, and mittens for 
all, including the crossing guards.  And these amazing two-piece dresses for 
herself that I swear she knitted on toothpicks.  The crochet haul included 
assorted afghans, laces tablecloths, antimacassars and doilies.  And she 
quilted.  And sewed.  And gardened.  And cooked.  All day.  I learned a lot 
from her.

                      -Helen/Aidan 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marie Schnoor" <mcschnoor@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person


.
>
> I always say, it's like being a Beatles fan or and Elvis fan; most people 
> I know are either one or the other. I don't know anyone who can do both 
> knit and crochet.


lol...My parents were of the first rock and roll generation, so I was lucky 
enough to learn to appreciate both Elvis AND the Beatles--my mom adored 
Elvis, and the first album I remember owning was Beatles 65, though I know 
we had Monkees albums before that..

I don't know what it is about knitting that bothers me so. I just know it 
drives me up a wall.

Dianne 

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 20:13:57 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Sorry to brag on myself, but I can knit AND crochet (if it's very 
elaborate I'd rather knit, but I've crocheted shawls, tablecloths, 
bedspreads, hats, and a few ponchos!). Also tat. And quilt. And 
embroider (although not in the same league with Bjarne and 
Lorina--hell, not on the same PLANET...). And basic weaving.
To put it very oddly, I have polio to thank for many of these skills. 
That is, when I was a young kid the polio vaccines hadn't been 
developed yet. Mothers kept their children indoors and quiet during the 
hottest hours of the summer days--this was the accepted method of 
prevention. My mother taught me to knit and embroider; my grandmother 
taught me to crochet. I taught myself to sew the bizarre clothes in 
which I dressed my dolls. In between, I read Nancy Drew mysteries and 
dreamed of having a roadster of my own. My girlfriend Joyce learned to 
tat from her mother in the same circumstances--she gave tatted 
bookmarks as gifts one Christmas.  I loved those long summer days at 
the time, and wish I could structure my time that way again! (Glad 
parents don't have to live in dread of their kids' catching polio 
nowadays, though!)
When I was in college everybody knitted, even a couple of the guys. We 
knit in class, at choir rehearsals, at the movies....that's when I 
learned to turn cables and found myself in huge demand ("If I buy the 
wool, would you knit me an Aran Isles sweater?") I pulled an 
all-nighter once to finish a knitted openwork sweater for a friend who 
was wearing it with a long skirt to a formal dance.
I came into my own as a crocheter while watching the Fischer-Spassky 
chess match on television one grad-school summer.
I didn't learn to tat from Joyce; I taught myself from a book, which is 
also how I learned to make bobbin lace.
Give me a piece of string and I'm happy!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On May 26, 2006, at 6:09 PM, Helen Pinto wrote:

> Marie wrote:
>> But knitting, that's orderly and straightforward...
>> I don't know anyone who can do both knit and crochet.
>
> I'm with you.  I can knit, standing up in the subway even, but I can't 
> crochet worth a damn.  I end up with a twisty thing that won't lie 
> flat.
>
> Now my grandmother could do both, sort of a human perpetual motion 
> machine. Annual output: 2 sweaters each per son and grandchild, 1 per 
> daughter-in-law and other miscellaneous extended family, plus hats, 
> scarves, and mittens for all, including the crossing guards.  And 
> these amazing two-piece dresses for herself that I swear she knitted 
> on toothpicks.  The crochet haul included assorted afghans, laces 
> tablecloths, antimacassars and doilies.  And she quilted.  And sewed.  
> And gardened.  And cooked.  All day.  I learned a lot from her.
>
>                      -Helen/Aidan
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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n. I just don't have anyone to ask for my class? So I sent it through the 
message boards to those people with whom I talk costuming. That's all.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adele de Maisieres" <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Survey questions


> Becky wrote:
>>    Main question is 1. Do you laugh every day? Yes/No
>>     2. How many times a day? 1-5, 5-10 or more
>>     3. Gender? Maler or Female
>>     4. Do you laugh more in a group or alone?
>>     5. How does it make you feel? Happy, Tired, Rejuvinated or other
>>     6. Where do you laugh more: at home or at work?
>>     7. Where are you located? US or Europe or (somewhere else and say 
>> where)
>>     8. Do you laugh more with others or at others? (Such as laughing at a 
>> =
>>     joke or laughing when someone falls down/slapstick comedy)
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>
> What does this have to do with historic costuming?
>
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres
>
> -----------------------------
> Habeo metrum - musicamque,
> hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
> -Georgeus Gershwinus
> -----------------------------
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Survey questions
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In a message dated 5/26/2006 8:27:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
zeartiste@hotmail.com writes:

I just  don't have anyone to ask for my class?


And what class is that?  I think we would have been more receptive to  your 
original message if you had prefaced the survey with, "I have been assigned  to 
give this survey for my class in xxxxx, and I would appreciate it if you  
could assist me by answering it."
 
Ann Wass
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I guess that us Europeans have it a bit easier.  In elementary school 
1st grade I learned to crochet.  In second grade I learned to knot.  We 
also learned the various embroidery stitches and some sewing.  I 
remember my first crochet project in school was a stuffed elf.  The 
first knitting project was a pair of house slippers with a felt sole we 
had to saew the knitted upper to.  Laster we learned to knit gloes and 
socks.  We crochet doilies and afgans and eve a sweater.  My first 
sewing project was i 5th grade.  We sewed a christening gown of all 
things that was decorated with shadow stitch embroidery.  The 
embroidery is done on the wrong side of the very fine linnen, with 
bright colors so it shines throughin pastel tones.  The sewing was all 
by hand.  I remember my Mom was really upset at the useless Christening 
gown!  Afterall we were only 10 years old!
O, I forgot to say I grew up in Germany!  Now I live in the States, but 
I still knit, crochewt, sew, quilt, etc. etc.  Sometimes I even read a 
book while knitting!

Hope that does not make me too strange!
Elisabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sat, 27 May 2006 08:38:29 +1200
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person

Marie Schnoor wrote:Â 
> Oh man, I have to totally dissagree with you there! Crochet just > 
makes me feel like a fish in a net! I start off with that wee hook > 
thing and loop it around and I end up tying my toes together... > 
somehow...Â 
>Â 
> But knitting, that's orderly and straightforward.Â 
>Â 
> I always say, it's like being a Beatles fan or and Elvis fan; most > 
people I know are either one or the other. I don't know anyone who can 
> do both knit and crochet.Â 
Â 
I can. I learned to crochet as a child, but only taught myself to knit 
a few years ago. Knitting is _so_ much easier to mess up and so much 
harder to fix when you do.Â 
Â 
-- Adele de MaisieresÂ 
Â 
-----------------------------Â 
Habeo metrum - musicamque,Â 
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?Â 
-Georgeus GershwinusÂ 
-----------------------------Â 
Â 
_______________________________________________Â 
h-costume mailing listÂ 
h-costume@mail.indra.comÂ 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costumeÂ 


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How much does the book cost and where did you get it?


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 7:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yippee!!


> My copy of Moda a Firenze arrived in today's mail!!!
>
> I'm so excited!! There are portraits that I've never seen in it AND
> there's a page-sized image of the portrait of Laudomia de Medici as well.

Colour? Wow... I've been looking for THAT for years... looked through books 
and books and books and couldn't find it... 

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My senior year in high school I took a textile arts class. We did
embroidery, appliqué, netting, spinning, natural dyeing, and weaving. It was
a great class. I still have and use the shawl I wove.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of bostonhahn@aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 5:40 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person


I guess that us Europeans have it a bit easier.  In elementary school 
1st grade I learned to crochet.  In second grade I learned to knot.  We 
also learned the various embroidery stitches and some sewing.  I 
remember my first crochet project in school was a stuffed elf.  The 
first knitting project was a pair of house slippers with a felt sole we 
had to saew the knitted upper to.  Laster we learned to knit gloes and 
socks.  We crochet doilies and afgans and eve a sweater.  My first 
sewing project was i 5th grade.  We sewed a christening gown of all 
things that was decorated with shadow stitch embroidery.  The 
embroidery is done on the wrong side of the very fine linnen, with 
bright colors so it shines throughin pastel tones.  The sewing was all 
by hand.  I remember my Mom was really upset at the useless Christening 
gown!  Afterall we were only 10 years old!
O, I forgot to say I grew up in Germany!  Now I live in the States, but 
I still knit, crochewt, sew, quilt, etc. etc.  Sometimes I even read a 
book while knitting!

Hope that does not make me too strange!
Elisabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sat, 27 May 2006 08:38:29 +1200
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person

Marie Schnoor wrote: 
> Oh man, I have to totally dissagree with you there! Crochet just >
makes me feel like a fish in a net! I start off with that wee hook > 
thing and loop it around and I end up tying my toes together... > 
somehow... 
> 
> But knitting, that's orderly and straightforward.
> 
> I always say, it's like being a Beatles fan or and Elvis fan; most >
people I know are either one or the other. I don't know anyone who can 
> do both knit and crochet.
 
I can. I learned to crochet as a child, but only taught myself to knit 
a few years ago. Knitting is _so_ much easier to mess up and so much 
harder to fix when you do. 
 
-- Adele de Maisieres 
 
----------------------------- 
Habeo metrum - musicamque, 
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid? 
-Georgeus Gershwinus 
----------------------------- 
 
_______________________________________________ 
h-costume mailing list 
h-costume@mail.indra.com 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 


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From: ailith@neo.rr.com
Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Yippee!!
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I got it at a very special price. A friend got them from someone in
Houston and then sold me a copy for what she paid, so it was a good deal
less than what the book's currently going for.

kate

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
Date: Friday, May 26, 2006 10:33 pm
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Yippee!!
To: 'Historical Costume' <h-costume@indra.com>

> How much does the book cost and where did you get it?
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
> Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 7:16 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yippee!!
> 
> 
> > My copy of Moda a Firenze arrived in today's mail!!!
> >
> > I'm so excited!! There are portraits that I've never seen in it AND
> > there's a page-sized image of the portrait of Laudomia de Medici 
> as well.
> 
> Colour? Wow... I've been looking for THAT for years... looked 
> through books 
> and books and books and couldn't find it... 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-
> costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Survey questions
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Status: RO

I am taking an online class where the only time I see the other students in 
the class is aset test time and maybe not even then for the times are over 3 
days. test takers come whenever they want to, because the time is under a 
proctored examinator. I met 5 last night at orientation. The others that 
could not be there can review the taped session at the HACC library here is 
Harrisburg area.
I received my syllabus yesterday and within it's lists is the assignment of 
this survey. TO ask a question that can be answered with yes or not, then 
other related information to use as graphed or plotted points to find 
certain information that will lead to the locabulary words of the textbook. 
It is to teach us how to apply some of this new information as well as show 
us why it is used.
I'm sorry if such a online discussion question offends you. I thought the 
formum would be an open discussion area since I've seen unrelated messages 
and topics before this. Reply only if you wish to. Nothing is required, just 
volunteer. All information is confidential and names are not important for 
the plotting of this data gathering assignment.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Survey questions


>
> In a message dated 5/26/2006 8:27:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> zeartiste@hotmail.com writes:
>
> I just  don't have anyone to ask for my class?
>
>
> And what class is that?  I think we would have been more receptive to 
> your
> original message if you had prefaced the survey with, "I have been 
> assigned  to
> give this survey for my class in xxxxx, and I would appreciate it if you
> could assist me by answering it."
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Current projects
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Status: RO

Seems like a bunch of the lists I'm on have a thread going about current 
projects.  So thanks to all of you who answered my plea for some sort of 
idea of what to charge for contract work.  Well, I'm now under contract 
to do a bunch of 20th century sewing, 1919, 1943, and early 1950's.  
Thank heavens it's in an era where it is mainly machine work, since it 
needs to be done by July 10.  I think it is wild that I'll probably be 
getting more money for this than if I was still on wages.  The 
explanation is that the museum can take the money from a different pot, 
one that couldn't have been used for wages.  Oh the craziness of 
restricted funds.  What really gets me is that I think this was the plan 
from the very beginning.

Dot Fisher
Now self employed, working for her former employer Strawbery Banke Museum
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
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A teacher at my kids' school had ALL her 7-8 graders doing a fabric project
for a local shelter- either knitting, crocheting or quilting. And all the
kids got into it. It was great seeing those tall, lanky 8th grade boys with
their knitting. :-)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 5:14 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person


Sorry to brag on myself, but I can knit AND crochet (if it's very 
elaborate I'd rather knit, but I've crocheted shawls, tablecloths, 
bedspreads, hats, and a few ponchos!). Also tat. And quilt. And 
embroider (although not in the same league with Bjarne and 
Lorina--hell, not on the same PLANET...). And basic weaving.
To put it very oddly, I have polio to thank for many of these skills. 
That is, when I was a young kid the polio vaccines hadn't been 
developed yet. Mothers kept their children indoors and quiet during the 
hottest hours of the summer days--this was the accepted method of 
prevention. My mother taught me to knit and embroider; my grandmother 
taught me to crochet. I taught myself to sew the bizarre clothes in 
which I dressed my dolls. In between, I read Nancy Drew mysteries and 
dreamed of having a roadster of my own. My girlfriend Joyce learned to 
tat from her mother in the same circumstances--she gave tatted 
bookmarks as gifts one Christmas.  I loved those long summer days at 
the time, and wish I could structure my time that way again! (Glad 
parents don't have to live in dread of their kids' catching polio 
nowadays, though!)
When I was in college everybody knitted, even a couple of the guys. We 
knit in class, at choir rehearsals, at the movies....that's when I 
learned to turn cables and found myself in huge demand ("If I buy the 
wool, would you knit me an Aran Isles sweater?") I pulled an 
all-nighter once to finish a knitted openwork sweater for a friend who 
was wearing it with a long skirt to a formal dance.
I came into my own as a crocheter while watching the Fischer-Spassky 
chess match on television one grad-school summer.
I didn't learn to tat from Joyce; I taught myself from a book, which is 
also how I learned to make bobbin lace.
Give me a piece of string and I'm happy!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On May 26, 2006, at 6:09 PM, Helen Pinto wrote:

> Marie wrote:
>> But knitting, that's orderly and straightforward...
>> I don't know anyone who can do both knit and crochet.
>
> I'm with you.  I can knit, standing up in the subway even, but I can't
> crochet worth a damn.  I end up with a twisty thing that won't lie 
> flat.
>
> Now my grandmother could do both, sort of a human perpetual motion
> machine. Annual output: 2 sweaters each per son and grandchild, 1 per 
> daughter-in-law and other miscellaneous extended family, plus hats, 
> scarves, and mittens for all, including the crossing guards.  And 
> these amazing two-piece dresses for herself that I swear she knitted 
> on toothpicks.  The crochet haul included assorted afghans, laces 
> tablecloths, antimacassars and doilies.  And she quilted.  And sewed.  
> And gardened.  And cooked.  All day.  I learned a lot from her.
>
>                      -Helen/Aidan 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] fabric support
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Silk organza would be the classic fabric to use if you want the top fabric to 
have more body, (due to it's static retention, it sticks to the outer fabric 
of its own accord).  Don't think it works with the synthetic stuff.

A quilted peticoat would work well to prevent boning coming through (my 
pockets are quilted and hide all the bumps from the stuff I fill them with 
brilliantly) - though you might need to test out different weights of quilting - 
obviously, if very light the hoops might still show - if very heavy it might make 
the hoops droop.

An extra petticoat made up of layers of cotton voile or muslin, underneath 
the skirts would work too - a bit like a layered victorian petticoat.  (although 
this wouldn't be historically correct for C18th as far as I know, it does 
work).

Debs

In a message dated 5/27/06 1:27:34 AM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 21:00:20 +0200
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Subject: [h-cost] fabric support
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <002001c680f6$a571da10$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>   reply-type=original
> 
> Hi,
> I wondered if any have suggestions i could use to "stiffen" a fabric. I am 
> talking about that cotton/viscose damask weawed fabric wich i baught a lot 
> of.
> It is a little two heavy when draping. I wondered if there might be any 
> fabrics i could use to line it with, to help it get more support.
> I am planning a francaise dress with this, and thoaght about maybe to use a 
> quilted petticoat over the hip panniers, to hide the sharp edges of the 
> bones.
> Do you think perhaps a organza fabric would help the fabric to get more body 
> 
> to it?
> Any other suggestions.
> I am determined to use this fabric, as i otherwise didnt know what to do 
> with it, and i thoaght it would be a waste, not to use it. Maybe the 
> finished dress would be ok?
> Its not a big pannier dress, only small hip panniers, inspired by the dress 
> in Dangerous Liasions, the woman playing the harp.
> 
> Bjarne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] knitting, sewing,
	tatting was in search of a     lost person
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My Nana could knit and crochet (and was the best dressmaker *and* tailor I've 
ever seen, as well as being an incredible cook and baker - aren't some people 
just annoyingly talented??!!)

My mother, although useless at sew-y things (she broke sewing machines) could 
knit and crochet without having to really think about either.

Personally I'm useless at knitting and crochet.  (Am *slowly* teaching myself 
to knit, and have just about got casting on and plain stitch and a couple of 
others sorted.  Haven't yet worked out casting off yet though, as am not up to 
there yet!)

Oh, and I like the beatles and elvis (which comes from dad being beatles fan, 
and mother being obsessed with elvis).

Debbie


In a message dated 5/27/06 1:27:34 AM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> I always say, it's like being a Beatles fan or and Elvis fan; most 
> >people I know are either one or the other. I don't know anyone who 
> >can do both knit and crochet.

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Date: Sat, 27 May 2006 01:06:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Survey questions
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi Becky.
  The problem was not asking the questions. The problem was that you did not start off by explaining what the questions are for and an explanation of how they would be used.
  Unrelated messages on this list are usually an offspring of a costume discussion.
  I dont think Ann had any problem with the survey either, except for the fact that it appeared without explanation and purpose and totally unrelated to the discussions.
  When you do surveys like this, you really need to write a synopsis of "what is the purpose with this survey" " How will the information be used" and "In what context will the information be used".
  Sorry to be a little pedantic here, but I have had statistics at college and my professor was very strict with the "design" of the inquiry.
   
  Tania

Becky <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:
  I am taking an online class where the only time I see the other students in 
the class is aset test time and maybe not even then for the times are over 3 
days. test takers come whenever they want to, because the time is under a 
proctored examinator. I met 5 last night at orientation. The others that 
could not be there can review the taped session at the HACC library here is 
Harrisburg area.
I received my syllabus yesterday and within it's lists is the assignment of 
this survey. TO ask a question that can be answered with yes or not, then 
other related information to use as graphed or plotted points to find 
certain information that will lead to the locabulary words of the textbook. 
It is to teach us how to apply some of this new information as well as show 
us why it is used.
I'm sorry if such a online discussion question offends you. I thought the 
formum would be an open discussion area since I've seen unrelated messages 
and topics before this. Reply only if you wish to. Nothing is required, just 
volunteer. All information is confidential and names are not important for 
the plotting of this data gathering assignment.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: 
To: 
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Survey questions


>
> In a message dated 5/26/2006 8:27:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> zeartiste@hotmail.com writes:
>
> I just don't have anyone to ask for my class?
>
>
> And what class is that? I think we would have been more receptive to 
> your
> original message if you had prefaced the survey with, "I have been 
> assigned to
> give this survey for my class in xxxxx, and I would appreciate it if you
> could assist me by answering it."
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Multiple textile techniques...
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      I learned to crochet first when I was little, and discovered it 
was very easy to shape it various ways.  I was actually resistant to 
knitting, because at the time it was not as interesting.  I remember 
a Girl Scout troop project (I was about 9), knitting scarves.  They 
only showed us garter stitch, and the girls who already knew how to 
knit got smaller needles.  I know now they were keeping it very 
simple for the whole group, but it was torture doing the same thing 
over and over and over!

      I got over that, and I enjoy knitting.  I haven't crocheted in 
years, but I still can if I want to.

      A friend has been trying to teach her daughter to knit (she's 
8), and I may suggest crochet first for her.  It's a lot more instant 
gratification, useful for those with a small attention span.

      -Carol
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From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060527080613.59689.qmail@web31911.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Survey questions
Date: Sat, 27 May 2006 09:54:43 -0400
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I did on the first submission but it came back So I cut it shorter. Like I 
said, this is my first assignment and it was a broad issue with little 
specifics except a question that cam be answered yes/no. So I'm learning how 
to ask a question as well as how to gather data. It's a learning experience. 
It's all done now.
As far as off-topic, I've seen several that were not far from this so I 
thought it would be fine to ask on this board. I'll limit my responses to 
costuming from now on. I'll ask if anyone wants to help, then send it 
privately.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tania Gruning" <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 4:06 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Survey questions


> Hi Becky.
>  The problem was not asking the questions. The problem was that you did 
> not start off by explaining what the questions are for and an explanation 
> of how they would be used.
>  Unrelated messages on this list are usually an offspring of a costume 
> discussion.
>  I dont think Ann had any problem with the survey either, except for the 
> fact that it appeared without explanation and purpose and totally 
> unrelated to the discussions.
>  When you do surveys like this, you really need to write a synopsis of 
> "what is the purpose with this survey" " How will the information be used" 
> and "In what context will the information be used".
>  Sorry to be a little pedantic here, but I have had statistics at college 
> and my professor was very strict with the "design" of the inquiry.
>
>  Tania
>
> Becky <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:
>  I am taking an online class where the only time I see the other students 
> in
> the class is aset test time and maybe not even then for the times are over 
> 3
> days. test takers come whenever they want to, because the time is under a
> proctored examinator. I met 5 last night at orientation. The others that
> could not be there can review the taped session at the HACC library here 
> is
> Harrisburg area.
> I received my syllabus yesterday and within it's lists is the assignment 
> of
> this survey. TO ask a question that can be answered with yes or not, then
> other related information to use as graphed or plotted points to find
> certain information that will lead to the locabulary words of the 
> textbook.
> It is to teach us how to apply some of this new information as well as 
> show
> us why it is used.
> I'm sorry if such a online discussion question offends you. I thought the
> formum would be an open discussion area since I've seen unrelated messages
> and topics before this. Reply only if you wish to. Nothing is required, 
> just
> volunteer. All information is confidential and names are not important for
> the plotting of this data gathering assignment.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From:
> To:
> Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 8:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Survey questions
>
>
>>
>> In a message dated 5/26/2006 8:27:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>> zeartiste@hotmail.com writes:
>>
>> I just don't have anyone to ask for my class?
>>
>>
>> And what class is that? I think we would have been more receptive to
>> your
>> original message if you had prefaced the survey with, "I have been
>> assigned to
>> give this survey for my class in xxxxx, and I would appreciate it if you
>> could assist me by answering it."
>>
>> Ann Wass
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just 
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: knit and crochet
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??? I don't understand the problem here. I can knit and crochet (and quilt
and embroider), and I could both knit and crochet when I was a child. My
grandmother taught me -- my mother taught me to hook rugs and needlepoint
and cross stitch. This was long after polio, but I was a crafty kid (I also
learned macrame and tons of other crafts). I did a couple of crocheted
afghans when I was around 12, and lots of knitted scarves and things (I
wasn't interested enough in knitting to learn to make sweaters). Knitting
and crocheting are both very simple.

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Multiple textile techniques...
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>      A friend has been trying to teach her daughter to knit (she's 
> 8), and I may suggest crochet first for her.  It's a lot more instant 
> gratification, useful for those with a small attention span.

grins..yup, that's why I like it so much!

Dianne

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Becky,
What is trying to be conveyed is a procedure in off topic posting. Off topic
posts are not banned. When posting a non costume related topic it is
appropriate to place in the subject heading "OT" for off topic posts (even
the old timers forget this once in a while). Then in the post, a simple
explanation of what is going on, example: "I have this class in .... and I
need input and I don't have access to many people so I was hoping some here
would be kind enough to help me with this" and then post the questions.
An explanation helps us determine whether we are looking at SPAM or an
actual request from a member.
When I read your post/questionnaire I thought it was SPAM so I immediately
deleted it.
Hope this explains that we are not saying you should not have posted the OT,
just that you needed a little more to help us identify what we were reading.

De


-----Original Message-----
"I'm sorry if such a online discussion question offends you. I thought the
formum would be an open discussion area since I've seen unrelated messages
and topics before this. "

"I thought it would be fine to ask on this board. I'll limit my responses to
costuming from now on. "


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: knit and crochet
Date: Sat, 27 May 2006 14:06:05 -0500
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People's minds are not programmed in the same way.
I can do okay knitting, not very good at all with crocheting, I can do real
good beadwork. My sister is excellent in knitting and crocheting but can't
do beadwork. She is an excellent sewer but has problems with being creative
with designs. I am not an excellent sewer but I sew well and can be creative
with designs.
Example: When my sister was trying on her wedding dress which had a
Edwardian style to it, she was dreading the loop on the wrist for the train.
I immediately saw that you could place buttons under a strip of lace and
strategic loops on the train and pull up the train into a bustle look. Give
my sister a pattern she will alter it to fit and sew it like it looks on the
cover.
She is a left brain person and I am a mostly right brained person. :)
De

-----Original Message-----
??? I don't understand the problem here. I can knit and crochet (and quilt
and embroider), and I could both knit and crochet when I was a child. My
grandmother taught me -- my mother taught me to hook rugs and needlepoint
and cross stitch. This was long after polio, but I was a crafty kid (I also
learned macrame and tons of other crafts). I did a couple of crocheted
afghans when I was around 12, and lots of knitted scarves and things (I
wasn't interested enough in knitting to learn to make sweaters). Knitting
and crocheting are both very simple.

Gail Finke


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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] online portfolios, resumes, etc
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Dear Sylvia,

I have been working on an on-line portfolio, organised by era, with a
thumbnails page:

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/Dress.html

The pictures are clickable and take you to a more detailed page for
each period; eventually I hope to have individual pages for each
outfit, but so far I've only done that for 1 dress.

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/Dress_95_Idy.html

There are just not enough hours in the day.  I am so torn between
wanting to add more and more to my website and wanting/needing to make
clothing.  I don't know what my boys are going to wear in the parade
on Monday.  I am finding it really hard to balance the two.  And my
housekeeping is definitely suffering..:~P

Katy

On 5/26/06, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
> I currently have my portfolio online but want to spice it up a little
> in adding a cover page, photo, other info.  Do any of you out there
> have such online portfolios/resumes that I could look at just for some
> style suggestions?  WHile I am very creative at costuming, I kind of
> draw a blank at graphic design and could just use some ideas.
>
> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric support
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 14:37:56 +0200
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Hi Debs.
Thanks for your reply.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Debloughcostumes@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric support


> Silk organza would be the classic fabric to use if you want the top fabric 
> to
> have more body, (due to it's static retention, it sticks to the outer 
> fabric
> of its own accord).  Don't think it works with the synthetic stuff.
>
> A quilted peticoat would work well to prevent boning coming through (my
> pockets are quilted and hide all the bumps from the stuff I fill them with
> brilliantly) - though you might need to test out different weights of 
> quilting -
> obviously, if very light the hoops might still show - if very heavy it 
> might make
> the hoops droop.
>
> An extra petticoat made up of layers of cotton voile or muslin, underneath
> the skirts would work too - a bit like a layered victorian petticoat. 
> (although
> this wouldn't be historically correct for C18th as far as I know, it does
> work).
>
> Debs


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 20:06:45 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher
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Status: RO

I have an original embroidery pattern for a ladys stomacher made with the 
whitework tecknique. Also a ladys cape.
The patterns comes from a collection at Nordiska Museum in Stockholm, where 
they belonged to a lady called Beata Jacquette Ribbing. She lived in the 
first half of the 18th century, so my guess would be these patterns being 
made between 1730- 50.
I have made a high resolution scanning of the patterns, and i could blow 
them up to normal size without problems. They are insane beautifull, and 
especially the stomacher it is possible to rekonstrukt. The pattern of the 
cape needs to be rekonstrukted in some of the areas, but with patience and 
skill its possible.
If anyone is interrested, i would not mind to post it to my website, so that 
you could copy it.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 20:15:01 -0400
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I would LOVE to see the stomacher.
Thanks,
Anne



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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Oh yes, please!  Thanks Bjarne :)

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:  I have an original embroidery pattern for a ladys stomacher made with the 
whitework tecknique. Also a ladys cape.
The patterns comes from a collection at Nordiska Museum in Stockholm, where 
they belonged to a lady called Beata Jacquette Ribbing. She lived in the 
first half of the 18th century, so my guess would be these patterns being 
made between 1730- 50.
I have made a high resolution scanning of the patterns, and i could blow 
them up to normal size without problems. They are insane beautifull, and 
especially the stomacher it is possible to rekonstrukt. The pattern of the 
cape needs to be rekonstrukted in some of the areas, but with patience and 
skill its possible.
If anyone is interrested, i would not mind to post it to my website, so that 
you could copy it.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 29 05:48:32 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 11:47:48 +0200
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Hi,
Here is the link to the stomacher and cape patterns.
They belonged to Beate Jacquette Ribbing in first half of 18th century. She 
was the daughter of a minister.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/l-stomacher.htm
Bjarne

To get a full size scale of the pattern, depending of wich size you want, it 
has to be blown up to something between 400 and 500 %

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 15:18:24 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I probably wouldn't be expecting to copy the stomacher pattern but I 
sure would love to see it, Bjarne!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On May 28, 2006, at 2:06 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> I have an original embroidery pattern for a ladys stomacher made with 
> the whitework tecknique. Also a ladys cape.
> The patterns comes from a collection at Nordiska Museum in Stockholm, 
> where they belonged to a lady called Beata Jacquette Ribbing. She 
> lived in the first half of the 18th century, so my guess would be 
> these patterns being made between 1730- 50.
> I have made a high resolution scanning of the patterns, and i could 
> blow them up to normal size without problems. They are insane 
> beautifull, and especially the stomacher it is possible to 
> rekonstrukt. The pattern of the cape needs to be rekonstrukted in some 
> of the areas, but with patience and skill its possible.
> If anyone is interrested, i would not mind to post it to my website, 
> so that you could copy it.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher
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YES! PLEASE!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 11:07 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher


I have an original embroidery pattern for a ladys stomacher made with the 
whitework tecknique. Also a ladys cape.
The patterns comes from a collection at Nordiska Museum in Stockholm, where 
they belonged to a lady called Beata Jacquette Ribbing. She lived in the 
first half of the 18th century, so my guess would be these patterns being 
made between 1730- 50.
I have made a high resolution scanning of the patterns, and i could blow 
them up to normal size without problems. They are insane beautifull, and 
especially the stomacher it is possible to rekonstrukt. The pattern of the 
cape needs to be rekonstrukted in some of the areas, but with patience and 
skill its possible.
If anyone is interrested, i would not mind to post it to my website, so that

you could copy it.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
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My goal is to have it done and wear it when the last book comes out (next
year, I here).  I promise to get pictures--I want the cardigan, a set of
robes, the whole bit....
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person


>
> .
> > Oh, and learning to crochet so I can make a Mrs Weasley cardigan.  ;o)
> > --Sue
>
> Oh, now THAT I want to see!!
>
> Crochet is easy. Knitting drives me completely around the bend. I know how
> to do, but I hate it. It seems to take too long. (Said by the woman whose
> first crochet project was a filet lace wall hanging, about 15x20, in size
30
> thread.)
>
> Dianne
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher
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At 10:47 29/05/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Here is the link to the stomacher and cape patterns.
>They belonged to Beate Jacquette Ribbing in first half of 18th 
>century. She was the daughter of a minister.
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/l-stomacher.htm
>Bjarne
>
>To get a full size scale of the pattern, depending of wich size you 
>want, it has to be blown up to something between 400 and 500 %
>
>Bjarne


I suspect very strongly that this is trapunto work, not embroidery as 
such. A Danish friend of mine has a waistcoat embroidered in a very 
similar style, and of the same date. I have photos of it in close-up, 
and of the back, and you can see where the candlewick ends are left.

Suzi 


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] was "in search of a lost person" now Mrs. Weasley/Potter
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And what are you making the robes from?  What pattern?  I want to do a
Professor Magonagal robe and dress set, but can't decide which outfit from
which movie to do.  Is there a picture of the sweater you are doing
anywhere?
-Megam

-----Original Message-----
Sue Clemenger wrote:
My goal is to have it done and wear it when the last book comes out (next
year, I here).  I promise to get pictures--I want the cardigan, a set of
robes, the whole bit....
--Sue



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Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 10:55:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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>>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/l-stomacher.htm

> I suspect very strongly that this is trapunto work, not embroidery as
> such. A Danish friend of mine has a waistcoat embroidered in a very
> similar style, and of the same date. I have photos of it in close-up,
> and of the back, and you can see where the candlewick ends are left.
>
> Suzi

     I agree with Suzi.  I've also seen it described as "cord quilted". 
Besides being beautiful, the technique makes the item stiffer.

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Multiple textile techniques...
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 09:39:25 -0600
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I just wasn't interested in it (crochet) until I thought of it as a means to
an end (the Mrs. Weasley cardigan).  It still seems...limited.  Afghans,
potholders, stiff ugly vests, nasty looking lace (okay...sue's weasel
words..."filet crochet is not to my personal taste).  I do like the more
delicate-looking crocheted laces and edgings, but when I was growing up
(60's and 70's) the crochet I saw was clunky and chunky and stiff.
Had tried to learn to knit a few times, but none successful or of long
duration until 2 years ago, when I decided I wanted to know how for simple
16th century knitted items.
I can tat, a little, but it's needle tatting, which I found far easier than
tatting with a shuttle.
--Sue, a sort-of whole-brained leftie (knit right-handed, crochet/tat
left-handed, sewing is ambidextrous ;o)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Multiple textile techniques...


>
> >      A friend has been trying to teach her daughter to knit (she's
> > 8), and I may suggest crochet first for her.  It's a lot more instant
> > gratification, useful for those with a small attention span.
>
> grins..yup, that's why I like it so much!
>
> Dianne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher
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Bjarne, that would be *wonderful!*  Thank you very much for the offer!
I absolutely adore 18th century Danish white embroidery....
*sighs happily*
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 12:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher


> I have an original embroidery pattern for a ladys stomacher made with the
> whitework tecknique. Also a ladys cape.
> The patterns comes from a collection at Nordiska Museum in Stockholm,
where
> they belonged to a lady called Beata Jacquette Ribbing. She lived in the
> first half of the 18th century, so my guess would be these patterns being
> made between 1730- 50.
> I have made a high resolution scanning of the patterns, and i could blow
> them up to normal size without problems. They are insane beautifull, and
> especially the stomacher it is possible to rekonstrukt. The pattern of the
> cape needs to be rekonstrukted in some of the areas, but with patience and
> skill its possible.
> If anyone is interrested, i would not mind to post it to my website, so
that
> you could copy it.
>
> Bjarne


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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060529124721.C76E814D9E2@mail03.powweb.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] was "in search of a lost person" now Mrs. Weasley/Potter
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Haven't decided any of the details (fabric, etc.).  Will probably monkey
about with a modified combination of houpelande and scholar's clothing to
get the right look.
There are actually a fair number of pictures online of the sweater.  I'll
try to dig up some of my links.  If you get impatient in the meantime, try
googling for "Mrs. Weasley" and "sweater."  It was a fairly hot topic on a
few lists when the movie came out, if only because Mrs. W is famous for
knitting and the cardigan sleeves are clearly crocheted. <g>
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 6:47 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] was "in search of a lost person" now Mrs.
Weasley/Potter


> And what are you making the robes from?  What pattern?  I want to do a
> Professor Magonagal robe and dress set, but can't decide which outfit from
> which movie to do.  Is there a picture of the sweater you are doing
> anywhere?
> -Megam
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Sue Clemenger wrote:
> My goal is to have it done and wear it when the last book comes out (next
> year, I here).  I promise to get pictures--I want the cardigan, a set of
> robes, the whole bit....
> --Sue
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Jayne Thomas <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Photos of Flamenco Dress 
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Hi!
   
  I have made an album on my Yahoo! photos page of my first project of this year, a Flamenco dress for my daughter.  It took me two months to make, and the photos where taken in March, after a lot of persuading my daughter to wear it!  After that, she danced around the house to Bizet's 'Carmen' for about a month in it, which is when she grew out of the dress! The photos can be found at http://photos.yahoo.com/dresspattern.  The easiest way to view them is to click on the album, then click on 'View Slide Show'. Please tell me what you think of it!
   
  I have (finally!) finished the muslin of the 1569 gown, and ready to cut it for real!  My daughter enjoys wearing the muslin, playing QEI, having her teddies and dolls as her subjects!  
   
  All the best!
  Jayne

		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 29 12:28:04 2006
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 12:27:08 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Gorgeous!

WAAAY above my level of expertise, though.

Thanks for sharing.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On May 28, 2006, at 4:02 PM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:

> YES! PLEASE!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 11:07 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher
>
>
> I have an original embroidery pattern for a ladys stomacher made with 
> the
> whitework tecknique. Also a ladys cape.
> The patterns comes from a collection at Nordiska Museum in Stockholm, 
> where
> they belonged to a lady called Beata Jacquette Ribbing. She lived in 
> the
> first half of the 18th century, so my guess would be these patterns 
> being
> made between 1730- 50.
> I have made a high resolution scanning of the patterns, and i could 
> blow
> them up to normal size without problems. They are insane beautifull, 
> and
> especially the stomacher it is possible to rekonstrukt. The pattern of 
> the
> cape needs to be rekonstrukted in some of the areas, but with patience 
> and
> skill its possible.
> If anyone is interrested, i would not mind to post it to my website, 
> so that
>
> you could copy it.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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In a message dated 5/29/2006 12:18:11 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk writes:

I have  made an album on my Yahoo! photos page of my first project of this 
year, a  Flamenco dress for my daughter. 


It looks great.  Thanks for sharing.  I believe I remember your  asking about 
patterns.  What did you end up using?
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of Flamenco Dress
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     It's very cute!  I especially like the bustle effect with the horse. 
:-)  It's difficult to have an adult style look good on a child, and
the trim works well there.  With all those seams, is there nothing to
let out so she can wear it a bit longer?

     -Carol

>   I have made an album on my Yahoo! photos page of my first project of
> this year, a Flamenco dress for my daughter.  It took me two months to
> make, and the photos where taken in March, after a lot of persuading my
> daughter to wear it!  After that, she danced around the house to Bizet's
> 'Carmen' for about a month in it, which is when she grew out of the
> dress! The photos can be found at http://photos.yahoo.com/dresspattern.
> The easiest way to view them is to click on the album, then click on
> 'View Slide Show'. Please tell me what you think of it!


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Subject: [h-cost] embroidered stomacher
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Thank you so much for shating this.  Isn't the top item a cap, rather than a
cape?

Martha



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Subject: [h-cost] The spelling gods got me!
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I DO think I meant "sharing"! That's teach me to hit SEND before
SPELL-CHECK. Especially since I was asking about CAP versus CAPE.
Martha

Thank you so much for shating this.  Isn't the top item a cap, rather than a
cape?

Martha






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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered stomacher
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 20:44:01 +0200
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Hi,
Yes it is, its me spelling bad. Sorry.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 7:09 PM
Subject: [h-cost] embroidered stomacher


> Thank you so much for shating this.  Isn't the top item a cap, rather than 
> a
> cape?
>
> Martha
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 20:49:06 +0200
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered linen stomacher


> Bjarne, that would be *wonderful!*  Thank you very much for the offer!
> I absolutely adore 18th century Danish white embroidery....
> *sighs happily*
> --Sue

Hi,
It is not danish, but swedish. It is a collection they have at Nordiska 
Museet in Stockholm, Sweden. The collection has 50 embroidery patterns.

Bjarne 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher
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Hi Suzi,
Thanks for the informations. When it comes to these points of what i wrongly 
call whitework, i am totally blank because i dont know the different 
teckniques used to these.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher


> At 10:47 29/05/2006, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>Here is the link to the stomacher and cape patterns.
>>They belonged to Beate Jacquette Ribbing in first half of 18th century. 
>>She was the daughter of a minister.
>>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/l-stomacher.htm
>>Bjarne
>>
>>To get a full size scale of the pattern, depending of wich size you want, 
>>it has to be blown up to something between 400 and 500 %
>>
>>Bjarne
>
>
> I suspect very strongly that this is trapunto work, not embroidery as 
> such. A Danish friend of mine has a waistcoat embroidered in a very 
> similar style, and of the same date. I have photos of it in close-up, and 
> of the back, and you can see where the candlewick ends are left.
>
> Suzi
>
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> 


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 12:09:51 -0700
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Thank you, Bjarne! They look like a real challenge.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 2:48 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher


Hi,
Here is the link to the stomacher and cape patterns.
They belonged to Beate Jacquette Ribbing in first half of 18th century. She 
was the daughter of a minister.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/l-stomacher.htm
Bjarne

To get a full size scale of the pattern, depending of wich size you want, it

has to be blown up to something between 400 and 500 %

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 15:22:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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     I haven't tried that technique, but it's fairly simple.  You use a
running stitch along the lines, then run the cording into the spaces
with a tapestry needle from the back.  Use fleece for any larger
spots.

     Embroidery seems more challenging to me, because of the different
stitches and tension of the base fabric, not to mention color
choices!

     These pieces are just quilting & stuffing.

     -Carol


> Thank you, Bjarne! They look like a real challenge.

>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/l-stomacher.htm


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knit and crochet
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Fiant simii!!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 12:41 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: knit and crochet


I did a couple of crocheted
> afghans when I was around 12, and lots of knitted scarves and things (I
> wasn't interested enough in knitting to learn to make sweaters). Knitting
> and crocheting are both very simple.
>
> Gail Finke


I know how to knit, no problem. I just don't enjoy it. My mother liked to 
knit, but wasn't nuts about crochet.

I sew, crochet, paint, and embroider. I can live without knitting. :-)

Dianne 

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] linen embroidered stomacher
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 22:44:18 -0500
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I am more inclined to believe that it is simply, quilted. I have seen
quilted work from some extent petticoats that look like this but I wouldn't
rule out trapunto. Can anyone read what it says under the picture?
Also note that the cap and the cap pattern do not match. Same goes for the
forepart. Similarities but not the same.
De

-----Original Message-----
>>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/l-stomacher.htm

> I suspect very strongly that this is trapunto work, not embroidery as
> such. A Danish friend of mine has a waistcoat embroidered in a very
> similar style, and of the same date. I have photos of it in close-up,
> and of the back, and you can see where the candlewick ends are left.
>
> Suzi



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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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	<50451.72.13.239.193.1148930554.squirrel@webmail.patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 23:04:49 -0500
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
>     I haven't tried that technique, but it's fairly simple.

As someone who's done a lot of cording, it's a simple principle, but sigh, 
it's not quite as easy as it looks.  Especially when it comes to keeping the 
channels perfectly parallel on a curve!  It's also extremely hard to keep 
the wrinkles out of your work. A complex pattern like that one would 
probably be a LOT easier to embroider than do in trapunto (and more fun).

On the other hand, I just read something saying that trapunto (or a similar 
technique) goes back at least as far as 1485, and possibly back to the 
14thC, so I may have to get into it!

-E House


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Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 06:10:47 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] linen embroidered stomacher
In-Reply-To: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPIEEFGLAA.otsisto@socket.net>
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At 04:44 30/05/2006, you wrote:
>I am more inclined to believe that it is simply, quilted. I have seen
>quilted work from some extent petticoats that look like this but I wouldn't
>rule out trapunto. Can anyone read what it says under the picture?
>Also note that the cap and the cap pattern do not match. Same goes for the
>forepart. Similarities but not the same.
>De
>
>-----Original Message-----
> >>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/l-stomacher.htm
>
> > I suspect very strongly that this is trapunto work, not embroidery as
> > such. A Danish friend of mine has a waistcoat embroidered in a very
> > similar style, and of the same date. I have photos of it in close-up,
> > and of the back, and you can see where the candlewick ends are left.

The reason I think it is trapunto is that I have seen several pieces 
of this period, in white, on linen, and have been able to look at the 
backs, where you can clearly see that they are not just quilted, but 
threaded with what I have always been told was candlewick. If it was 
quilted, rather than threaded, these "threads" would not be visible. 
There are extant bedgowns in the V and A which use this method, but 
on a much larger scale. My Danish friend's piece is on a very small 
scale, as the Swedish pieces seem to be.

Suzi 


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From: Jayne Thomas <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Flamenco Dress Photos
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Hi!
   
  I used an old Butterick pattern for a child's and Miss's Medieval outfit (I can't get to it at the moment, as we are putting new shelving up in the store room -my fabric stash and sewing books brought the last lot crashing down!!) , which I added a train and made a split at the front.  I had to hand sew the lace (all ten metres of it!) on the dress, though I originally wanted frills, which looked too much for such a small dress.
  My daughter has grown out of it around the chest and the arms are too short; to be honest there is no turn up on the sleeves, so the over locking is hidden with the lace!
  I will have another look at the dress, to see if I can make it bigger- I could make it sleeveless, with lace around the armhole, and let out the seam a bit under the arms. 
  Glad you liked the photos!
   
  All the best 
  Jayne

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] linen embroidered stomacher
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 03:54:23 -0500
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http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/l-stomacher.htm

Candlewicking doesn't look at all like trapunto.
Scroll down to see example:
http://crossstitch.about.com/
http://www.garyclarkedesigns.com/candlewicking.html
Most trapunto that I have seen has been a white thread on white with early
works. The shear white cotton fabric with white embroidered design and
coloured threads under the shear cotton seems to have come about in the
1800s.
This is simple quilting but has the raised puckering that can be found with
the stomacher.
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_189.htm

To achieve trapunto with this small of a design would be difficult though
not impossible. Some areas like the stems look as if they might be trapunto
but I am more incline to believe that the stomacher is all or mostly
quilting. What I am familiar with as trapunto is the stitching of a design
though 2 - 3 layers and then a cord or tuft of batting is placed between two
of the layers to raise the design more. Sometimes trapunto has been referred
to as stuffed work.
I am not ruling out trapunto but IMHO the stomacher is regular quilting.
De

-----Original Message-----
The reason I think it is trapunto is that I have seen several pieces of this
period, in white, on linen, and have been able to look at the backs, where
you can clearly see that they are not just quilted, but threaded with what I
have always been told was candlewick. If it was
quilted, rather than threaded, these "threads" would not be visible.
There are extant bedgowns in the V and A which use this method, but on a
much larger scale. My Danish friend's piece is on a very small
scale, as the Swedish pieces seem to be.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap
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Hi.
I am sorry i didnt read the text before i posted the link.
It says that the cap and the stomacher are made with cotton.
Does any of you know how much shrinking there would be of such a close 
embroidery? It seems to me, that there would be much shrinking.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] linen embroidered stomacher
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At 09:54 30/05/2006, you wrote:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/l-stomacher.htm
>
>Candlewicking doesn't look at all like trapunto.
>Scroll down to see example:
>http://crossstitch.about.com/
>http://www.garyclarkedesigns.com/candlewicking.html



>Most trapunto that I have seen has been a white thread on white with early
>works. The shear white cotton fabric with white embroidered design and
>coloured threads under the shear cotton seems to have come about in the
>1800s.
>This is simple quilting but has the raised puckering that can be found with
>the stomacher.
>http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_189.htm
>
>To achieve trapunto with this small of a design would be difficult though
>not impossible. Some areas like the stems look as if they might be trapunto
>but I am more incline to believe that the stomacher is all or mostly
>quilting. What I am familiar with as trapunto is the stitching of a design
>though 2 - 3 layers and then a cord or tuft of batting is placed between two
>of the layers to raise the design more. Sometimes trapunto has been referred
>to as stuffed work.

>I am not ruling out trapunto but IMHO the stomacher is regular quilting.
>De

I think we are going to have to agree to disagree. Your top two 
examples are modern, not 18th century, and while the trapunto is 
similar in style to some bed gowns I have seen, the candlewick is a 
completely different technique from that used in the 18th  century. 
Your description of trapunto that you are familiar with is precisely 
the technique used on the  Danish piece I have been referring to, 
which is so similar to the pieces in Bjarne's photos. (It is very 
small, very precise, and quite beautiful.)

Suzi  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher
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> On the other hand, I just read something saying that trapunto (or a
similar
> technique) goes back at least as far as 1485, and possibly back to the
> 14thC, so I may have to get into it!

Nooooooooo!!!!! I have been thinking of trapunto stays from the 1840s now
you have to tempt me with hints that it was used prior to 1600!

I'd love to know more:) Especially if I can then go and find out if it was
used in 16thC Germany/Netherlands;)

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher
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Sorry, Michaela, but she's right.  There are definitely pre-17th century
extant pieces (rather large, in fact) with some trapunto in them.
There is, however, absolutely NO evidence of which I am aware of anything
like that being used to form one's body (in that same time period).  The
closest that I've seen have been the theoretical constructions that people
have done with "corded" corsets/pairs of bodys.
Come to think of it, I don't off-hand recall it being used on clothing prior
to 1600....Does anyone else? It's not my specific area of interest....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher


> > On the other hand, I just read something saying that trapunto (or a
> similar
> > technique) goes back at least as far as 1485, and possibly back to the
> > 14thC, so I may have to get into it!
>
> Nooooooooo!!!!! I have been thinking of trapunto stays from the 1840s now
> you have to tempt me with hints that it was used prior to 1600!
>
> I'd love to know more:) Especially if I can then go and find out if it was
> used in 16thC Germany/Netherlands;)
>
> Michaela
> http://glittersweet.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher
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Check out what Museum Illinois has to say on the subject.
 
_http://www.museum.state.il.us/muslink/art/htmls/ks_tech_t.html_ 
(http://www.museum.state.il.us/muslink/art/htmls/ks_tech_t.html) 
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Trapunto was: linnen embroidered stomacher
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I'm already half a step ahead. I had decided to make a baby quilt for a friend and was looking into trapunto. There are several extant examples of it, the V&A quilt is linen with brown and white linen thread, stuffed with cotton. Museum Number 1391-1904, referred to as "The Tristan Quilt". This one is Sicilian circa 1400. There are a couple other Italian quilts apparently, and some from Henry VIII. Some have been silk top with linen bases, variously coloured threads. I caught a glimpse of one that was polychrome embroidered first, then quilted. I wish I could get my hands on that image... I don't know where or when it was from. This type of quilting is most certainly within SCA-period, that I am aware, not as clothing, but as bed covers. I know there is a yahoo group for quilting you might want to sign onto. If you want some insta-boing answers, you could track down Lisa Evans, a quilt historian who presented at K'zoo.

Kathy
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
 
Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131

> On the other hand, I just read something saying that trapunto (or a
similar
> technique) goes back at least as far as 1485, and possibly back to the
> 14thC, so I may have to get into it!

Nooooooooo!!!!! I have been thinking of trapunto stays from the 1840s now
you have to tempt me with hints that it was used prior to 1600!

I'd love to know more:) Especially if I can then go and find out if it was
used in 16thC Germany/Netherlands;)





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From: "Bonnie Booker" <aspasia1@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person
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On 5/25/06, Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
>
> I was laureled back when Artemisia was still a fairly young principality
> in
> Atenveldt, and with one (very inactive) exception, am actually the
> "oldest"
> laurel in the whole state of Montana.


I got mine at 3:00 in the morning.  We had one of those forever courts
Trimaris used to have. I think they now have a cut-off time. Half the court
left to party.  The other half had gone to bed. Only a few strays were left,
so it was low keyed. The Laurel Circle in Trimaris (Florida) was very small
then, around a dozen I think, and a fairly new kingdom. No one else did it,
or even researched it. I did the Jane Seymour sleeves with a magnifying
glass and graph paper. We had no Internet, only books to go by.  I was a
librarian at the time, so that was handy. Love that ILL too.
My "masterwork piece" was a linen coif done in silk, Blackwork touched with
gold, that I gave my Laurel. Duchess Elspeth is Elizabethan, I'm 15th
century. It toured this country in a display and twice in England as a
replica. The design came from a pillow at V/A.

At any rate, peerages back then were pretty much all drive-by's, with a
> little more attention paid to the Chiv.  No warning, no special outfits,
> no
> vigils, nada.  Wham, bam, thank you ma'am...next? sort of thing.


The knights got all kinds of attention when elevated...vigils, cleansing,
the whole bit. The other peers got a good luck back then.  Now they can have
something special only if they let it be known.

I have always done all kinds of crafts.  I grew up in the country where
nothing was wasted. I had to make a handkerchief for each of my grandmothers
for Christmas every year. It could be embroidered, have crochet or tatted
lace, drawn work, or whatever, but it had to be special. I learned all kinds
of things to prevent being bored.

Aspasia Moonwind
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap
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Status: RO

Pre-shrink your fabric AND your thread. That may help.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:48 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap


Hi.
I am sorry i didnt read the text before i posted the link.
It says that the cap and the stomacher are made with cotton. Does any of you
know how much shrinking there would be of such a close 
embroidery? It seems to me, that there would be much shrinking.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] regency stays: seam construction ideas & details about
	1770s stays
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Hello!
 
I am at a crucial stage is making my regency stays: the main three layers (cotton, two of linen, which will then have another cotton layer as the lining) are all basted together and ready to be joined and have gussets inserted. I was really hoping that my visit to the museum today would yield a similar item so that I could examine how they were sewn together but alas - one 1770s set, one around 1900, one around 1895-1900 (they were totally slack on the dating: SO little information...) but nothing inbetween.
 
The photographs in the Kyoto 'Fashion' book aren't close enough up to really show how the pieces are joined. Anyone done a regular seam and then corded it? I'd like to get these done before the end of June so can't wait another six weeks for a museum appointment ( patience being a virtue very foreign to me...)
 
Most intriguing things about the 1760s-1770s stays (most like the 1776 ones in Didero's L'Encyclopaedie) 
1. REALLY narrow boning - rounded and no more than 2mm wide. Bents? I don't know, they were still v. flexible, apart from the broad pieces at CB and CF. I'm sure someone knows better than me.
2. The offset lacing: one left side, two holes close together at the top, on the left side, two holes close together at bottom, so you get 12 holes each side but offset. 'Mock lacing' at front but no more than 1inch wide at top and terribly close together (40 rows of fine thread over no more than 6 inches length, narrowing to nothing at bottom).
3. An intriguing pattern which reminded me of a Scottish saltire flag, embroidered at the top between the bones - it being no more than half boned and with very fine boning at that, three on either side of front busk area and two on each back piece (1 1/2 inch high, just a little wider). This wasn't boned in itself and the broad bone which runs around the inner top of the stays was hidden inside the linen lining.
 
Overall they were pretty mucky but seemed to be plain cream linen/cotton, matching thread and plain white linen lining. Tassets sewn separately on lining but NOT on the main pieces. These were very narrow - several about 2inches long and no more than 1/2 inch wide at the top.
 
Hope that is interesting and useful - any more questions, I'll do my best. Photos taken but only for my reference I'm afraid: I can't afford the fees!
 
Cheers,
Katherine
 p.s. I'll post this on historic corsets just in case it misses anyone, sorry if you get it twice.
 
"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
"Are you tugging my squirrel?"
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <003901c68410$e8a6b360$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 20:31:39 +0200
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Hi,
Yes its a must, if the stomacher is going to be washed after it has ben 
embroidered.
But i thoaght about the very heavy embroidery might shrink the stomacher 
rather much with all that stuffing of the lines.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 7:45 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap


> Pre-shrink your fabric AND your thread. That may help.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:48 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap
>
>
> Hi.
> I am sorry i didnt read the text before i posted the link.
> It says that the cap and the stomacher are made with cotton. Does any of 
> you
> know how much shrinking there would be of such a close
> embroidery? It seems to me, that there would be much shrinking.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap
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     There will be some "shrinkage" due to the cording taking up the base
fabrics and turning them 3 dimensional.  I discovered that the hard
way when making corded stays.  Oops!  Fortunately I was able to
insert a panel and get them back to size.

     I know it's tedious, but maybe the trick is to do a small sample to
see how much length and breadth is taken up, and then size the
pattern accordingly before making it.

     Bjarne, does embroidery usually shrink the item you're making?  I
thought that was the point of putting the fabric under tension, to
avoid the threads pulling the base fabric.

     -Carol


> Yes its a must, if the stomacher is going to be washed after it has ben
> embroidered.
> But i thoaght about the very heavy embroidery might shrink the stomacher
> rather much with all that stuffing of the lines.
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
>
>> Pre-shrink your fabric AND your thread. That may help.

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>     Bjarne, does embroidery usually shrink the item you're making?  I
> thought that was the point of putting the fabric under tension, to
> avoid the threads pulling the base fabric.
>
>     -Carol

Hi Carol.
No it does not shrink at all, but this is also a much different tecknique. I 
use a large frame to stretch my fabric, and for ordinary embroidery where it 
only is motifs made with satin and long short stitches, it does not shrink.
This trapunto work, i think would shrink just as much as heavy quilting 
would do.

Bjarne






 of the lines.
>>
>> Bjarne
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
>>
>>> Pre-shrink your fabric AND your thread. That may help.
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Knitted slippers
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Does anyone know where to find a photo of a pair of 1820s knitted slippers?

Fran
Lavolta Press
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silkish brocade
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I have not ordered from this store, but I think I know the fabric. 
There is a certain type of Oriental silk or silk/rayon blend, a kind of 
smooth, supple, nonmetallic brocaded satin.  It is not upholstery 
fabric, but it is not of the very lightest weight. It often has Oriental 
type motifs in the pattern, but if they are not "period" for your use, 
you can always find a pattern without them. This fabric is usually 
reasonably priced, as these things go, and it's also quite lovely.

This looks like the stuff.  There are other stores that carry it--I've 
seen it in Thai Silks' brick-and-mortar store, and I think their website 
may also list it but have not checked. I've sen it in a lot of fabric 
stores around here, but then we have a large Oriental population. 
Anyway, if your concern is the fabric and not the vendor--I have never 
bought from them but their selection and prices look good--as long as 
you're not looking for a really lightweight brocade, it's very nice.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

scourney@nwlink.com wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> Have any of you heard of or used this store?
> 
> http://www.transprism.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=62
> 
> I like some of their tapestries, but am not sure about ordering from them.
> 
> Thanks, Susan in Bellevue.
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Since this has brought up embroidery and its techniques....
 
Lookee:
 
 
 
_http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1861084765/sr=8-1/qid=1149025516/ref=sr_1_1/
102-8429157-3146539?%5Fencoding=UTF8_ 
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1861084765/sr=8-1/qid=1149025516/ref=sr_1_1/102-8429157-3146539?_encoding=UTF8) 
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] online portfolios, resumes, etc
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--- Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:
 
> I have been working on an on-line portfolio,
> organised by era, with a thumbnails page:
> 
> http://www.vintagevictorian.com/Dress.html
> 
> Katy

People have been checking out Katy's site of wonderful
clothes, right?  She does really cool nineteenth and
early twentieth century styles very well, and hangs
out with other people who do likewise.

Well worth a good long look.

Ann in CT

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From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 17:13:59 -0700
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Oh, now I understand what you mean. Why not make a small piece first, maybe
4 inches square and see how much it shrinks in both directions?
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 11:32 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap


Hi,
Yes its a must, if the stomacher is going to be washed after it has ben 
embroidered.
But i thoaght about the very heavy embroidery might shrink the stomacher 
rather much with all that stuffing of the lines.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 7:45 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap


> Pre-shrink your fabric AND your thread. That may help.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:48 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] linnen stomacher and cap
>
>
> Hi.
> I am sorry i didnt read the text before i posted the link.
> It says that the cap and the stomacher are made with cotton. Does any 
> of
> you
> know how much shrinking there would be of such a close
> embroidery? It seems to me, that there would be much shrinking.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: Historical Costume List <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] I'm Stumped
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I am toiling away at this commission and I am at something of a loss. It's those damned men's hose again, I swear they are my bane.
I have the foot and leg, right to the thigh fitting beautifully. It's his behind I am having trouble with. 
The source of inspiration for this is "Adoration of the Magi" by Botticelli:
(close up)http://www.wga.hu/art/b/botticel/21/21adorat.jpg
(full length detail) http://www.wga.hu/art/b/botticel/21/20adorat.jpg
Which is dated to  1465-67, putting it right at the cusp before connected hose. Contemporary art shows the behind mostly covered save for a small gap right were he would sit, and of course the front is mostly open. 
The back should look like this:
http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/francesco-heraclius-det3.JPG (Victory of Heracleus 1452-66)
and the front:
http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/crivelli-st-roch-wallace.jpg (Saint Roch, probably 1450)
As long as he is standing, I have it looking exactly right. It's when he sits that the problem becomes apparent - there is just no seat space. Yet there is no evidence of the typical saggy bum - I'm not getting it. Best I can figure is to cut back the back of the hose to the underside of his behind curving up to the hip then add in a curved section, a la 
http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/hose-farsetto-shop.JPG (Castle Challant, Issogne, 1489-1502)

Problem is, the client is rather far away now, I have to do this by educated guess. I don't have the luxury of making him stand still while I stab him with pins for hours on end. Anyone out there done something like this that can give me some helpful hints on construction? The prototypes are made of linen with a 3% lycra stretch, the "good" ones will be made of a light wool. hopefully they react largely the same to the pattern and I won't have to redraft a great deal to account for differences in stretch.

Kathy
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
 
Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131




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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen embroidered stomacher
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Quoting michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>:

>> On the other hand, I just read something saying that trapunto (or a
> similar
>> technique) goes back at least as far as 1485, and possibly back to the
>> 14thC, so I may have to get into it!
>
> Nooooooooo!!!!! I have been thinking of trapunto stays from the 1840s now
> you have to tempt me with hints that it was used prior to 1600!
>
> I'd love to know more:) Especially if I can then go and find out if it was
> used in 16thC Germany/Netherlands;)
>

According to Staniland (if memory serves), the Tristan Quilt is
Trapunto.  Dunno if it was a technique that ever showed up in clothing
or not.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: A Few Thoughts about Crochet (was Re: [h-cost] Multiple textile
	techniques...)
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On Monday 29 May 2006 11:39 am, you wrote:
> I just wasn't interested in it (crochet) until I thought of it as a means
> to an end (the Mrs. Weasley cardigan).  It still seems...limited. 

I agree.  I've never been interested in it because (1) most of the things I've 
seen made in that technique look ugly to me, and (2) it's primarily a 
Victorian technique, and I'm not really that interested in Victorian costume.


> Afghans, 
> potholders, stiff ugly vests, nasty looking lace (okay...sue's weasel
> words..."filet crochet is not to my personal taste).  I do like the more 
> delicate-looking crocheted laces and edgings, but when I was growing up
> (60's and 70's) the crochet I saw was clunky and chunky and stiff.

Ah, I see you agree with me, then.  :-)
> Had 
> tried to learn to knit a few times, 

I knew how to knit as a kid, but at the time was not really interested in 
keeping the skill up, and it's not really a period technique for the Dark 
Ages costumes I'm interested in doing now.  (That's why I've taken up 
nalbinding)....



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
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Hi,

Have any of you heard of or used this store?

http://www.transprism.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=62

I like some of their tapestries, but am not sure about ordering from them.

Thanks, Susan in Bellevue.

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] online portfolios, resumes, etc
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Lovely site. Does need a once over for spelling corrections. Beautiful
dresses.
De

-----Original Message-----
--- Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have been working on an on-line portfolio,
> organised by era, with a thumbnails page:
>
> http://www.vintagevictorian.com/Dress.html
>
> Katy



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen embroidered stomacher
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 6:54 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] linen embroidered stomacher


> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/l-stomacher.htm
>
> Candlewicking doesn't look at all like trapunto.
> Scroll down to see example:
> http://crossstitch.about.com/
> http://www.garyclarkedesigns.com/candlewicking.html
<snip>

I think there's some confusion over terms I took Suzi's  description of the 
extant pieces she saw to mean that they had used the same string/cord that 
would have been used to make candle wicks (so a relatively fine cord) in the 
trapunto not that they were doing this knot based surface embroidery, even 
if it is called Candlewicking.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Have been to the site before (about six months ago, I think), but have never 
used.

Debbie



In a message dated 5/31/06 5:36:37 AM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:51:22 -0700 (PDT)
> From: scourney@nwlink.com
> Subject: [h-cost] silkish brocade
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>   <37850.131.107.0.105.1149022282.squirrel@webmail.iinet.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Have any of you heard of or used this store?
> 
> http://www.transprism.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=62
> 
> I like some of their tapestries, but am not sure about ordering from them.
> 
> Thanks, Susan in Bellevue.
> 

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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency stays: seam construction ideas & details about
	1770s stay
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> 2. The offset lacing: one left side, two holes close together at the top, on the left side, two holes close together at bottom, so you get 12 holes each side but offset.

Spiral lacing, done the right way, Those are almost always laced wrong
on eBay and other such places :-)

Start at one end, go through the hole straight across, and then spiral
through to the other end, finishing with two holes straight across
again.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: A Few Thoughts about Crochet
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> > I just wasn't interested in it (crochet) until I thought of it as a means
> > to an end (the Mrs. Weasley cardigan).  It still seems...limited.
>
>I agree.  I've never been interested in it because (1) most of the things 
>I've
>seen made in that technique look ugly to me, and (2) it's primarily a
>Victorian technique, and I'm not really that interested in Victorian costume.

What about those elegant Edwardian Irish crochet dresses and waists?  I too 
remember the clunky crochet stuff produced in the 1960s (I kinda liked them 
even if you didn't), but modern crochet sweaters look as nice as knitted 
sweaters do.  Crochet is actually not as limited as some people think.  I 
will agree it's not for everyone.  But then, I only knit if I'm doing a 
period when crochet hadn't been invented yet.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Stash Enhancement Possibilities
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Good news, bad news, and more bad news.

The good news is that Hancock Fabrics at 7900 Florin Road in Sacramento 
CA has everything marked off at least 30%. The bad news is that the sale 
is because they are closing up the store.

So this is a good chance to stock up on notions and staples as well as 
getting some nice fabric and yarn at a good price.

The more bad news is that the reason the store is closing is because the 
area is not that safe. They have an armed guard in the store. So I would 
not plan on going after dark.

Don’t know how long this sale is going to last, but the first ones there 
get the best bones!

Stephen Bergdahl

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: A Few Thoughts about Crochet
Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 21:37:22 -0400
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On Wednesday 31 May 2006 12:54 pm, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> > > I just wasn't interested in it (crochet) until I thought of it as a
> > > means to an end (the Mrs. Weasley cardigan).  It still seems...limited.
> >
> >I agree.  I've never been interested in it because (1) most of the things
> >I've
> >seen made in that technique look ugly to me, and (2) it's primarily a
> >Victorian technique, and I'm not really that interested in Victorian
> > costume.
>
> What about those elegant Edwardian Irish crochet dresses and waists? 

I did say "most".  Those are not among the exceptions that came to my mind, 
though.  Some of the crocheted lace collars (of the type especially popular 
in the 1860s) made of fine thread are nice.  


> I too 
> remember the clunky crochet stuff produced in the 1960s (I kinda liked them
> even if you didn't), but modern crochet sweaters look as nice as knitted
> sweaters do.  

I don't care much even for the modern ones.

> Crochet is actually not as limited as some people think.  I 
> will agree it's not for everyone.  But then, I only knit if I'm doing a
> period when crochet hadn't been invented yet.

Fair enough.  I admit I was trumpeting my own tastes here, and everyone's 
mileage varies when it comes to taste.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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