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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wig
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2006 10:24:49 +0200
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Hi Melanie,
Many thanks.
I have 2 other wigs wich i use for earlyer style, i always take care of 
them, and make them ready when i go to something. Usually i have some 
stuffed sausages, wich i keep in the rolls when not using  them.
Most difficult thing is that i always have to travel far to get to events, 
and its a problem to carry all the things.
For this wig wich i am ordering from Derek Easton, i will be very carefull, 
and i think i am going to buy myself a special box to travel with it.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melanie Schuessler" <melanie@faucet.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 11:11 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wig


> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>> Hi,
>> I have looked in all my books for a picture of a nice wig i want. I 
>> finally desided to this one, from Galleries des Modes et Costumes 
>> Francaises. Its a 1780 ies wig, and i think it will be good to my suits.
>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig.htm
>> What do you think?
>
> Very stylish, but would it be difficult to maintain the perfection of 
> those rolls?  (Wigs for the theatre tend to need a lot of maintenance, but 
> then I'm sure you would take better care of yours than most actors do!)  I 
> think it would be very handsome on you.
>
> Melanie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wig
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Status: RO

Sorry i forgot, i will wrap the cadogan  (tail) with a real silk ribbon, i 
have a place where i can buy real silk ribbons.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Beth Schoenberg" <schoenb@grapevine.net.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 6:27 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wig


> Whoa-ho!!  Wow!!
>
> What kind of hat do you wear with this?  Or is it for "indoor" sorts of 
> events?  I know there was a short-term fashion for very very small 
> tricorne hats perched on larger wigs -- does this style of wig fall into 
> that fashion period?
>
> What do you use to wrap the "tail" at the back?  Black silk?  In the 
> illustration, the wrap looks almost like leather, but I would think that 
> even thin leather would be heavy and awkward.
>
> Good luck and have fun!
>
> BTW, regarding the lovely yellow silk dress you posted recently --- the 
> lace-maker in me just HAS to ask:  was there enough left over of the 
> lovely cotton lace to improvise a cap and lappets for the lady?   Not that 
> you yourself had time for it, mind you, as I well know.  She looks lovely 
> in the dress.   But lace-makers just have to find ways to add more lace 
> whenever we can!
>
> Beth Schoenberg
> --- in lovely, nasty-raw-cold Kambah, Canberra (Australia)
>
>
>
> On 01/07/2006, at 5:14 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> I have looked in all my books for a picture of a nice wig i want. I 
>> finally desided to this one, from Galleries des Modes et Costumes 
>> Francaises. Its a 1780 ies wig, and i think it will be good to my suits.
>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig.htm
>> What do you think?
>> Thanks
>>
>> Bjarne
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wig
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Status: RO

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Most difficult thing is that i always have to travel far to get to 
> events, and its a problem to carry all the things.

Ah, the bane of the reenactor: the proliferation of luggage!  It's not 
so bad when I drive somewhere, but to fly with all the gear can be 
challenging.  I recently did a series of three workshops at a convention 
far away, each of which required an outfit from a different century 
(14th, 16th, 19th).  I made sure it was in our agreement that they would 
pay the charges for extra luggage on the plane!

Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wig
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Status: RO

Hi Beth,
I have a felt blank that i want to make a small tricorned hat off. I am a 
little uncertain what i should trim it with, it needs to get a trim of some 
sort in the edge, also to cover the black hat wire i am going to sew to the 
edge, so that it will keep its shape.
We have events at the gustavians, where we are outside in the garden, and 
inside. Every time we go outside, we use our hats, off cause, and takes the 
hat off inside. In many cases the hat was not used on the head, but only 
carried under the arm, i know it sounds rediculous, but it is a fact.
I know it would have ben lovely with a little cap and lappets, but i did not 
have enough to make it, only the small neck frill. I do have leftovers of 
the wider lace that i used for the sleaves, but i guess it would be two wide 
for a cap.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Beth Schoenberg" <schoenb@grapevine.net.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 6:27 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wig


> Whoa-ho!!  Wow!!
>
> What kind of hat do you wear with this?  Or is it for "indoor" sorts of 
> events?  I know there was a short-term fashion for very very small 
> tricorne hats perched on larger wigs -- does this style of wig fall into 
> that fashion period?
>
> What do you use to wrap the "tail" at the back?  Black silk?  In the 
> illustration, the wrap looks almost like leather, but I would think that 
> even thin leather would be heavy and awkward.
>
> Good luck and have fun!
>
> BTW, regarding the lovely yellow silk dress you posted recently --- the 
> lace-maker in me just HAS to ask:  was there enough left over of the 
> lovely cotton lace to improvise a cap and lappets for the lady?   Not that 
> you yourself had time for it, mind you, as I well know.  She looks lovely 
> in the dress.   But lace-makers just have to find ways to add more lace 
> whenever we can!
>
> Beth Schoenberg
> --- in lovely, nasty-raw-cold Kambah, Canberra (Australia)
>
>
>
> On 01/07/2006, at 5:14 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> I have looked in all my books for a picture of a nice wig i want. I 
>> finally desided to this one, from Galleries des Modes et Costumes 
>> Francaises. Its a 1780 ies wig, and i think it will be good to my suits.
>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig.htm
>> What do you think?
>> Thanks
>>
>> Bjarne
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Subject: ADMIN NOTE Re: [h-cost] Visit this sites!
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Sorry - I've removed them from the mailing list.

This is the first time we've had such a blatant "subscribe so I can
spam the list"; usually the requirement to confirm a subscription is
enough to discourage those who don't really want to participate.  I
hope we will not have to add the kind of hoops you need to jump
through for Yahoo groups and the like, but I will be keeping my eyes
open for abuse like this in the future.

					...eliz, list admin

-- 
Children are made up of genetics, blind luck, and the stories you tell them.
 - The Flying Ks

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overdyeing with tan--Thanks--also discount fabrics
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Yes.

Fran

Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:

> Berkeley, CA?
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Lavolta Press
> Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 12:36 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overdyeing with tan--Thanks--also discount fabrics
> 
> 
> Thanks to Melanie and everyone. I suppose it's time to try it.  After I 
> do my next two loads of stuff I'm dyeing for the first time, I'll start 
> experimenting with softening some of the overly bright warm colors I did.
> 
> (My husband keeps saying he wants to have "fun" with the dye jobs and 
> considering some of his ideas, I have to keep telling him he's only 
> allowed to have "safe fun.")
> 
> I have, BTW, occasionally dyed white cotton lace by making coffee too 
> strong to drink and soaking the lace in it in a bowl till it was about 
> the right color. However, this was for things that won't be washed a 
> lot.  Tea produces a pinker brown than coffee, and I don't like that 
> color as much. Quilters can get away with using it a lot because quilts 
> don't usually get washed often.
> 
> BTW, I went to the dentist in Berkeley a couple days ago, and the big 
> Discount Fabrics there is having a moving sale.  Signs all over. I 
> didn't have time to go in, but I have to go back on Monday and maybe I 
> can make it then.
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> 
> 
> 
> Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> 
>>Lavolta Press wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I'd prefer these colors darker rather than lighter.
>>
>>
>>Then adding dye rather than dye remover is what you want.
>>
>>
>>>Do you think for an ecru overdye 10% of our usual amount would be 
>>>good?
>>
>>
>>I would say try it.  If it doesn't do enough, do it again with more. 
>>10%
>>is a very safe amount--I definitely don't think it would be too much.
>>
>>Good luck,
>>Melanie
>>
>>_______________________________________________
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] First Ladies Exhibits in Kansas City
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I've just heard about this exhibit on the radio. It's a travelling 
display from the Smithsonian, and it will be in Kansas City through the 
end of August:

http://www.sites.si.edu/exhibitions/exhibits/ladies/main.htm

It's supposed to have clothing and jewelry, among the other items.

Also on exibit in town is a display about Missouri First Ladies, again 
including clothing:

http://www.unionstation.org/exhibitDetail.cfm?listingID=197


If you're in the midwest this summer, come down and check it out.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: ADMIN NOTE Re: [h-cost] Visit this sites!
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Thank you. :-)

Arlys

On Sat, 1 Jul 2006 08:35:34 -0600 Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> writes:
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> 
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric question -- taffeta
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 20:36:16 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I think I posed this question before but got no response.  Jo-Anns 
sells a fabric called satin taffeta.  I know that both satin and 
taffetas are separate weaves, so what the H*** is satin taffeta?

Sylrog

On Jun 29, 2006, at 9:16 AM, Kim Baird wrote:

> Taffeta is a ribbed fabric. That is, there are many more threads in one
> direction than in the other. If you have twice as many filling threads 
> as
> you have warp threads, the filling threads pretty much cover the warp, 
> and
> make little ridges called ribs.
>
> Crepe de Chine, shantung, poplin and faille are some other ribbed 
> fabrics.
>
> Taffeta is also made from filament yarn. This can be silk or nylon or
> polyester or even rayon--anything that is extruded as one long 
> filament. It
> can't be wool or cotton or linen, since those are not long filaments.
>
> Iridescent taffeta has warp and filling yarns of different colors. 
> Moire
> taffeta has a water-marked, embossed design.
>
> A good magnifying glass cvan help you see the weave better, to 
> identify a
> taffeta from a broadcloth or a satin weave.
>
> Kim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On
> Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
> Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 10:01 AM
> To: Costume List
> Subject: [h-cost] fabric question -- taffeta
>
> What is it that "defines" taffeta?
>
> I just snatched the *most* gorgeous piece of what I'd call taffeta 
> (it's
> heavy and it *sounds* like taffeta) at Hancocks for $3.00/yard (WoHoo) 
> with
> 40% cupon.  It's pink on one side and lavendar on the other (not shot,
> though).
>
> And it's *natural*  cotton/linen/rayon blend.
>
> Happy Dance!
>
> and it's *mine*  :-D
>
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Judging costume contest? Help!
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Our local Habitat for Humanity affiliate is having a theme party fundraiser, 20s/30s era, and is planning a costume contest. The tickets are sold to the general public and fancy dress is optional, so pretty much anything goes. We need help with the logistics of it. Should guests have to "sign up" for the contest, should we just choose someone from the crowd and announce it, how should we handle it? We really need to make it fun and so that no one's hurt or embarrassed. (These are guests who are donating $ and playing games, not a serious special interest group.) Has anyone ever been involved in something like this? Any ideas or suggestions are most welcome, thanks!
  Melissa

 		
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What I've seen that works well for the public is to have someone announce that the contest is about to begin and that anyone interested should come up to stage. You can either have appointed judges or do the winner(s) by crowd applause. If you're worried about hurting someones feelings you can always have some sort of side prize such as most imaginative. Hope this helps.           Tania 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: jmhr3@yahoo.com <jmhr3@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Sat, 1 Jul 2006 17:20:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [h-cost] Judging costume contest? Help!


Our local Habitat for Humanity affiliate is having a theme party fundraiser, 
20s/30s era, and is planning a costume contest. The tickets are sold to the 
general public and fancy dress is optional, so pretty much anything goes. We 
need help with the logistics of it. Should guests have to "sign up" for the 
contest, should we just choose someone from the crowd and announce it, how 
should we handle it? We really need to make it fun and so that no one's hurt or 
embarrassed. (These are guests who are donating $ and playing games, not a 
serious special interest group.) Has anyone ever been involved in something like 
this? Any ideas or suggestions are most welcome, thanks!
  Melissa

        
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overdyeing with tan--Thanks--also discount fabrics
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I dropped by the Discount Fabrics in Berkeley on San Pablo and Ashby; they
knew nothing about any of the Discount Fabrics moving anywhere, especially
not them. Fran, which store did you go to? Do you have an address?

LynnD


On 7/1/06, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
>
> Yes.
>
> Fran
>
> Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:
>
> > Berkeley, CA?
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of Lavolta Press
> > Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 12:36 PM
> > To: Historical Costume
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overdyeing with tan--Thanks--also discount fabrics
> >
> >
> > Thanks to Melanie and everyone. I suppose it's time to try it.  After I
> > do my next two loads of stuff I'm dyeing for the first time, I'll start
> > experimenting with softening some of the overly bright warm colors I
> did.
> >
> > (My husband keeps saying he wants to have "fun" with the dye jobs and
> > considering some of his ideas, I have to keep telling him he's only
> > allowed to have "safe fun.")
> >
> > I have, BTW, occasionally dyed white cotton lace by making coffee too
> > strong to drink and soaking the lace in it in a bowl till it was about
> > the right color. However, this was for things that won't be washed a
> > lot.  Tea produces a pinker brown than coffee, and I don't like that
> > color as much. Quilters can get away with using it a lot because quilts
> > don't usually get washed often.
> >
> > BTW, I went to the dentist in Berkeley a couple days ago, and the big
> > Discount Fabrics there is having a moving sale.  Signs all over. I
> > didn't have time to go in, but I have to go back on Monday and maybe I
> > can make it then.
> >
> > Fran
> > Lavolta Press
> > http://www.lavoltapress.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> >
> >>Lavolta Press wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>I'd prefer these colors darker rather than lighter.
> >>
> >>
> >>Then adding dye rather than dye remover is what you want.
> >>
> >>
> >>>Do you think for an ecru overdye 10% of our usual amount would be
> >>>good?
> >>
> >>
> >>I would say try it.  If it doesn't do enough, do it again with more.
> >>10%
> >>is a very safe amount--I definitely don't think it would be too much.
> >>
> >>Good luck,
> >>Melanie
> >>
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>h-costume mailing list
> >>h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >>
> >
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> > _______________________________________________
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> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
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In a message dated 7/1/2006 8:38:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  taniampembro
ke@aol.com writes:

If  you're worried about hurting someones feelings you can always have some 
sort  of side prize such as most imaginative


This is my suggestion, too--most creative, most colorful, most original,  
best couple, etc.  Sometimes I've had to wait to see what showed up to  decide on 
appropriate categories.  Certificates for these sorts of prizes  cost almost 
nothing.
 
And also to either have them come up to the stage or parade around the  room, 
if appropriate.
 
As to judging, audience judging can tend to be more based on popularity  than 
best costume.
At a recent event I attended, the organizers had the hired wait staff be  the 
judges.  They were certainly impartial. 
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric question -- taffeta
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Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:

> I think I posed this question before but got no response.  Jo-Anns 
> sells a fabric called satin taffeta.  I know that both satin and 
> taffetas are separate weaves, so what the H*** is satin taffeta?

Well, I suppose if "linen" can be 100% polyester .....

:-(

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
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University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric question -- taffeta
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>
> What is it that "defines" taffeta?
>
> I just snatched the *most* gorgeous piece of what I'd call taffeta 
> (it's heavy and it *sounds* like taffeta) at Hancocks for $3.00/yard 
> (WoHoo) with 40% cupon.  It's pink on one side and lavendar on the 
> other (not shot, though).

Well, I took a picture of the fabric.
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Garb/P7010076.JPG
You can see both sides of the fabric in the picture.  The blue/lavender
really isn't "true color" but those of you who photograph know that
blue is notoriously difficult to photograph.

Anyway ...  You can see the white warp and the pink and lavendar weft
threads.  It's "shot" only in the sense that you can see the opposite
side of the fabric through the "holes" in the weave.  (I hope that
makes sense!

Thanks!  It really doesn't matter what kind of fabric it is, I'm just
curious.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Judging costume contest? Help!
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You could have multiple small awards--for best shoes, best hat, etc. both
male and female and an overall best look for the final. If it is a small
group, have one for each, silly is fine. For bigger group, do multiple,
maybe 5 or 10.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of jmhr3@yahoo.com
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 5:21 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Judging costume contest? Help!


Our local Habitat for Humanity affiliate is having a theme party fundraiser,
20s/30s era, and is planning a costume contest. The tickets are sold to the
general public and fancy dress is optional, so pretty much anything goes. We
need help with the logistics of it. Should guests have to "sign up" for the
contest, should we just choose someone from the crowd and announce it, how
should we handle it? We really need to make it fun and so that no one's hurt
or embarrassed. (These are guests who are donating $ and playing games, not
a serious special interest group.) Has anyone ever been involved in
something like this? Any ideas or suggestions are most welcome, thanks!
  Melissa

 		
---------------------------------
Want to be your own boss? Learn how on  Yahoo! Small Business. 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat
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I just finished the left side of the waistcoat with spangels.
Took me 2 weeks to make, i promised to update, when finished..............

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm

I am now taking a break and goes a trip to Tivoli in Copenhagen, have a nice 
coffe and a big cake :-)

Bjarne







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2006 08:16:26 -0500
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OMG, Bjarne, as always, simply spectacular!  Your work continues to amaze. 
I wish I could commission you to make something for my husband; I've been 
showing him the pictures of your work and he usually starts to drool :)

Susan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 7:25 AM
Subject: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat


>I just finished the left side of the waistcoat with spangels.
> Took me 2 weeks to make, i promised to update, when finished..............
>
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
>
> I am now taking a break and goes a trip to Tivoli in Copenhagen, have a 
> nice coffe and a big cake :-)
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Judging costume contest? Help!
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Tania wrote:

>What I've seen that works well for the public is to have someone 
>announce that the contest is about to begin and that anyone interested 
>should come up to stage. You can either have appointed judges or do 
>the winner(s) by crowd applause. If you're worried about hurting 
>someones feelings you can always have some sort of side prize such 
>as most imaginative. Hope this helps. 

I like this, because it requires people to step forward if they DO want to compete. Since this is a _competition_, their stepping forward means (hopefully) that they are prepared for the possibility that they might not be chosen as the winner -- which minimizes possible hurt feelings.

I'd also suggest that having some small "token" for everyone who enters would be very nice -- something as small as a pretty bar of soap or a fresh rose.

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat
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>I just finished the left side of the waistcoat with spangels.
> Took me 2 weeks to make, i promised to update, when finished..............
>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
> I am now taking a break and goes a trip to Tivoli in Copenhagen, have a 
> nice coffe and a big cake :-)
> Bjarne
>

 
Dear Bjarne 
 
Bravo! That looks beautiful and will be stunning in candlelight - I can almost see you shimmering over dinner with your elegant new wig too :-)
 
Have a wonderful time in Tivoli: I've been to Copenhagen three times now, mainly to visit the Frilandsmuseet but Tivoli is just so magical - the light over the lake from the chinese lanterns in the evening as the sun sets.... Sigh!
 
Enjoy your well earned cake,
 
Katherine the admiring
 
p.s. I meant to say how fabulous the yellow dress and stays were: I am inspired and will do something similar after my current projects are under control ...
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat
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I am still in awe of your talent! That is so beautiful. I don't know how you could possibly think anything else would have been as terrific.  Thanks so much for sharing and inspiring!!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- drewscph@post12.tele.dk wrote:

From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc:
Subject: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2006 14:25:17 +0200

I just finished the left side of the waistcoat with spangels.
Took me 2 weeks to make, i promised to update, when finished..............

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm

I am now taking a break and goes a trip to Tivoli in Copenhagen, have a nice 
coffe and a big cake :-)

Bjarne







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat
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Stunning!!!  I love your work!  Have fun celebrating your accomplishment.
Elena/Gia

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> 

> I just finished the left side of the waistcoat with spangels. 
> Took me 2 weeks to make, i promised to update, when finished.............. 
> 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm 
> 
> I am now taking a break and goes a trip to Tivoli in Copenhagen, have a nice 
> coffe and a big cake :-) 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews 
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
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Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2006 11:09:19 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat
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>I just finished the left side of the waistcoat with spangels.
>Took me 2 weeks to make, i promised to update, when finished..............
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm

>I am now taking a break and goes a trip to Tivoli in Copenhagen, have a nice
coffe and a big cake :-)

Bjarne,
Would that I had a tricorne.  If I did, I would take my hat off to
you, sir!  The vest is a spectacular design.  I'm glad you flattened
the flowers.  It's a better look and will be easier to wear.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <edcaf0220607021109t13d2f888q4d9f150b846a9c0c@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat
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Hi Cyn,
Yes i am glad i got the good advises from all of you.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 8:09 PM
Subject: re: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat


> >I just finished the left side of the waistcoat with spangels.
>>Took me 2 weeks to make, i promised to update, when finished..............
>>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
>
>>I am now taking a break and goes a trip to Tivoli in Copenhagen, have a 
>>nice
> coffe and a big cake :-)
>
> Bjarne,
> Would that I had a tricorne.  If I did, I would take my hat off to
> you, sir!  The vest is a spectacular design.  I'm glad you flattened
> the flowers.  It's a better look and will be easier to wear.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Buying a costume business
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I just heard about an opportunity to buy a costume business and 
recalled that someone of one of these lists was discussing such a 
prospect that came up in Denver, CO.  I am a costume person, not a 
business person and know absolutely nothing about such purchases.  I 
was wondering if anyone has any knowledge of costume 
rental/construction businesses or if anyone here owns/runs one and 
might be able to give me some insight.  All I know so far is that the 
owner wants 30 grand for 2000 costumes and equipment,  I assume.

Sylvia

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Status: RO

I don't know much about the costume business, but in business in general the first thing thing to learn is to never assume. Alway find out 100% and get it in writting. There are a lot of shady people out there. You're going to also want to inspect and document the condition of every costume so that you can reasearch what they're worth. You don't want to end up with one nice costume and 1999 crappy ones.
               Tania 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, 2 Jul 2006 13:50:43 -0600
Subject: [h-cost] Buying a costume business


I just heard about an opportunity to buy a costume business and recalled that someone of one of these lists was discussing such a prospect that came up in Denver, CO. I am a costume person, not a business person and know absolutely nothing about such purchases. I was wondering if anyone has any knowledge of costume rental/construction businesses or if anyone here owns/runs one and might be able to give me some insight. All I know so far is that the owner wants 30 grand for 2000 costumes and equipment, I assume. 
 
Sylvia 
 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buying a costume business & Costume design book I read
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Someone asked me the title of the book I read on film costuming. It's 
_Costume Design 101_, by Richard LaMotte, a guy with about 30 years of 
experience in the Hollywood costume business.  There is, as I said 
before, a great deal of information in this book about how the film 
costuming profession works, and very little about how to design or build 
costumes.  Then again, there are many other books on the latter.

This book might help you/Sylvia to see the rental business from the 
other end--how film companies use costumes and what they want out of a 
rental business.

We've sold a lot of books to costume rental businesses. As far as I can 
tell, aside from any filming that may be done locally--and in many 
localities this is probably not very much or very often--they rent to 
theater companies, professional, semi-professional, and school; and also 
to individuals for theme weddings, murder mystery parties, Halloween, 
and any other event anyone might want a costume for.  Some of them even 
stock costumes for people who want them for their sex lives--French maid 
costumes and so on.

Whoever is rented to, I gather there is a lot of loss and damage.  I've 
been told that for every rental you need a standard contract that makes 
the renter pay in full for all loss and damage, including total 
replacement if necessary; and you need to be the one who legally 
evaluates what has gone wrong and how much to charge for it.

Frankly I would not advise getting into any business at all until you 
know a great deal about how that kind of business works.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> I just heard about an opportunity to buy a costume business and recalled 
> that someone of one of these lists was discussing such a prospect that 
> came up in Denver, CO.  
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buying a costume business & Costume design book I read
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2006 15:28:16 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks for the info.  I really need to know how this woman's business 
works and aside from just discussing it with her, don't know where else 
to go.    I don't need any info on design or construction.  I guess I 
just need to know if it looks like this can be a profitable business 
and I dont know where to find that out.    Do you think the book you 
mentioned would help?    I know this business doesnt rent to film 
companies.  It sounds like she does some small theatre productions, 
lots of Halloween, Renaissance, weddings--the full gamut.  The one 
thing that is making it intriguing is that it is in a beautifully 
scenic location, but that could be a drawback too because of the small 
town nature of the place.   Apparently she has done very well in the 
business over the years.  Is there any way to find out what her profits 
have been?  Can I see her tax records?  You can see I'm very green 
about business matters.
On Jul 2, 2006, at 2:32 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> Someone asked me the title of the book I read on film costuming. It's 
> _Costume Design 101_, by Richard LaMotte, a guy with about 30 years of 
> experience in the Hollywood costume business.  There is, as I said 
> before, a great deal of information in this book about how the film 
> costuming profession works, and very little about how to design or 
> build costumes.  Then again, there are many other books on the latter.
>
> This book might help you/Sylvia to see the rental business from the 
> other end--how film companies use costumes and what they want out of a 
> rental business.
>
> We've sold a lot of books to costume rental businesses. As far as I 
> can tell, aside from any filming that may be done locally--and in many 
> localities this is probably not very much or very often--they rent to 
> theater companies, professional, semi-professional, and school; and 
> also to individuals for theme weddings, murder mystery parties, 
> Halloween, and any other event anyone might want a costume for.  Some 
> of them even stock costumes for people who want them for their sex 
> lives--French maid costumes and so on.
>
> Whoever is rented to, I gather there is a lot of loss and damage.  
> I've been told that for every rental you need a standard contract that 
> makes the renter pay in full for all loss and damage, including total 
> replacement if necessary; and you need to be the one who legally 
> evaluates what has gone wrong and how much to charge for it.
>
> Frankly I would not advise getting into any business at all until you 
> know a great deal about how that kind of business works.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>> I just heard about an opportunity to buy a costume business and 
>> recalled that someone of one of these lists was discussing such a 
>> prospect that came up in Denver, CO.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Kathleen Hanrahan" <kathleen.hanrahan@homenode.us>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buying a costume business
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  Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
   <snip>
  >                                        All I know so far is that the
  > owner wants 30 grand for 2000 costumes and equipment, I assume.
Make sure of these things!  Will you get the rights to the company name?  Can you take over her lease/take over her space/store front?  Can you get her customer list?  Will you be able to take over any of her current contracts (building lease/future contracts - weddings, etc.)?  Will she tell you about any competition that she has (the costume rental place in the next town/the tuxedo rental place two streets over/the woman in town who makes all of the costumes for the school plays/...)?  Would she introduce you to her customers (so that they think kindly of you)?  Also what kind of hours does she put in?  Can you put in those same hours (or maybe more while you are starting out!)?

You would want a copy of her budget (list of expenses/income).  How much are her expenses?  You have to be able to make more than that to make a go of it.

  > Thanks for the info. I really need to know how this woman's business
  > works and aside from just discussing it with her, don't know where else
  > to go.
If you want information about the costume rental business (generally, as opposed to this woman's business that you wish to purchase), ask business owners in this category (costume rentals) that are not in her area (competition!).  Tuxedo rental stores (and bridal shops?) may partially fit this bill.

  > <snip>
  >                           Apparently she has done very well in the
  > business over the years. Is there any way to find out what her profits
  > have been? Can I see her tax records?
Yes, this is the first thing that I would suggest.

For ideas on what you should look for (from the business point of view), I'd look at some internet sites:
Nolo
http://www.nolo.com/
Select <Business & Human Resources>
Then select <Buying or Selling a Business> from the "Main Topics"
There are several articles that seem to give useful information.

Also, what about asking her for "referrals" - business/customers that she deals with.  Does she pay her rent on time (implies that her business is doing well)?  Were you (a customer) satisfied with your rental?  Were your problem(s) with the business/business woman solved?

Of course, the official answer is always, "Have your lawyer and accountant take a look at whatever you are going to do."  ;-)

Kathleen
a new-to-the-list lurker and a VERY small business (computer-consultant) owner
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buying a costume business
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Thanks for the info.  I have a friend who is an accountant I may be 
able to ask for help, but do I really need a lawyer?

On Jul 2, 2006, at 4:49 PM, Kathleen Hanrahan wrote:

>   Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>    <snip>
>>                                        All I know so far is that the
>> owner wants 30 grand for 2000 costumes and equipment, I assume.
> Make sure of these things!  Will you get the rights to the company 
> name?  Can you take over her lease/take over her space/store front?  
> Can you get her customer list?  Will you be able to take over any of 
> her current contracts (building lease/future contracts - weddings, 
> etc.)?  Will she tell you about any competition that she has (the 
> costume rental place in the next town/the tuxedo rental place two 
> streets over/the woman in town who makes all of the costumes for the 
> school plays/...)?  Would she introduce you to her customers (so that 
> they think kindly of you)?  Also what kind of hours does she put in?  
> Can you put in those same hours (or maybe more while you are starting 
> out!)?
>
> You would want a copy of her budget (list of expenses/income).  How 
> much are her expenses?  You have to be able to make more than that to 
> make a go of it.
>
>> Thanks for the info. I really need to know how this woman's business
>> works and aside from just discussing it with her, don't know where 
>> else
>> to go.
> If you want information about the costume rental business (generally, 
> as opposed to this woman's business that you wish to purchase), ask 
> business owners in this category (costume rentals) that are not in her 
> area (competition!).  Tuxedo rental stores (and bridal shops?) may 
> partially fit this bill.
>
>> <snip>
>>                           Apparently she has done very well in the
>> business over the years. Is there any way to find out what her profits
>> have been? Can I see her tax records?
> Yes, this is the first thing that I would suggest.
>
> For ideas on what you should look for (from the business point of 
> view), I'd look at some internet sites:
> Nolo
> http://www.nolo.com/
> Select <Business & Human Resources>
> Then select <Buying or Selling a Business> from the "Main Topics"
> There are several articles that seem to give useful information.
>
> Also, what about asking her for "referrals" - business/customers that 
> she deals with.  Does she pay her rent on time (implies that her 
> business is doing well)?  Were you (a customer) satisfied with your 
> rental?  Were your problem(s) with the business/business woman solved?
>
> Of course, the official answer is always, "Have your lawyer and 
> accountant take a look at whatever you are going to do."  ;-)
>
> Kathleen
> a new-to-the-list lurker and a VERY small business 
> (computer-consultant) owner
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2006 16:08:23 -0700
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It is stunning! I wish I could see it in person. Hope Tivoli was fun.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 5:25 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat


I just finished the left side of the waistcoat with spangels. Took me 2
weeks to make, i promised to update, when finished..............

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm

I am now taking a break and goes a trip to Tivoli in Copenhagen, have a nice

coffe and a big cake :-)

Bjarne







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buying a costume business
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Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:

> Thanks for the info.  I have a friend who is an accountant I may be 
> able to ask for help, but do I really need a lawyer?

yes.  Believe it or not, the lawyer is probably more critical than the
accountant!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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I was afraid someone would say that.  With 2 girlfriends who have gone 
through recent divorces and spent a fortune, I hate to have to deal 
with lawyers.

On Jul 2, 2006, at 5:11 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
>
>> Thanks for the info.  I have a friend who is an accountant I may be 
>> able to ask for help, but do I really need a lawyer?
>
> yes.  Believe it or not, the lawyer is probably more critical than the
> accountant!
>
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:

> I was afraid someone would say that.  With 2 girlfriends who have 
> gone through recent divorces and spent a fortune, I hate to have to 
> deal with lawyers.

on the list for Margo's Patterns, they recently had a similar discussion
about sewing for people, lawyers and contracts.  Having lawyers and
contracts won't keep stuff from happening, but it can help keep
molehills from developing into Mt. Everest.

If you've got the time, you might want to pop over to the list and 1)
check the archives and/or ask your question there.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MargosPatterns

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buying a costume business
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In a message dated 7/2/2006 7:03:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

I have a  friend who is an accountant I may be 
able to ask for help, but do I really  need a lawyer?



Do you fill your own teeth, or go to a dentist?  Contract equals  lawyer--yes 
indeed!
 
Maybe this is obvious, but I haven't seen it addressed yet--WHY does the  
owner want to sell?
 
Bruce Williams, who has a syndicated radio show and wrote the book, "In  
Business for Yourself" (not sure if it is still in print, but I recommend it),  
would always ask people in a similar situation--are you buying a business, or a  
hobby?  In other words, does it really throw off any money?
 
Ann Wass
 
 
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Wow, oh wow!!! Stunning, Bjarne! Thanks for sharing--seeing your work is
always a treat. :-D

Arlys

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Sylvia:

I don't know anything about the costume business, but I am a business owner.
The first thing you should do is find out if there is a trade association
for costume businesses, and contact them for information about trade
practices and business valuation. If there isn't, there must be one for
related businesses -- party rentals, or special event rentals. If you buy
this business, JOIN THE TRADE ASSOCIATION.

Next check with the Small Business Association. Does it have any programs in
your area? Ours has an office and there are lots of programs to help you
start in business, including one in which retired business owners and
managers will talk with you about what you want to do.

Finally, get this person's financial data. At the very least she should have
end-of-year profit and loss statements. Don't worry if you don't know what
those are (when you go into business, though, you should) -- the important
thing to know now is if SHE knows what they are. If it is an all-cash
business, there's not necessarily anything wrong with that, but there will
be no real documentation as to how well she does, and then the value of the
business should be much lower.

You didn't say whether the space was involved in the sale. If there is no
space you can take over the lease for, what are you going to do with
thousands of costumes?

Good luck -- having a business can be wonderful, but it's a lot of work.

Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] Buying a costume business
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Buying a costume business

>I just heard about an opportunity to buy a costume business and recalled that
>someone of one of these lists was discussing such a prospect that
came up in >Denver, CO.  I am a costume person, not a business person
and know absolutely
 >nothing about such purchases.  I was wondering if anyone has any
knowledge of >costume rental/construction businesses or if anyone here
owns/runs one and >might be able to give me some insight.  All I know
so far is that the owner wants >30 grand for 2000 costumes and
equipment,  I assume.

Sylvia,
The methodology that is normally used for valuing a business is called
Valuation.  There are many books on the shelves in the business
sections of bookstores and biz-schools.  You are looking at a business
that combines elements of the service industry and retail industries.
The inventory sounds like it's primarily comprised of short term
durable goods with a relatively long shelf life.
One very readable book is _The Darkside of Valuation_ which takes the
reader thru a step by step process of valuing Starbucks.  The process
is the same, irregardless of the size of the business. Some things
you'll do:
 * You'll evaluate current income & expenses. You look ahead to see
where you can expect sudden or seasonal changes in either and map
these out.
 * You evaluate the discounted cash flow the business produces.
 * You'll find some comparatives in similar business. While this is
harder with private businesses, some business brokers do maintain
records & certainly keep up with the gossip.
 * You'll have to estimate future growth (in part this will be based
on what you think you can accomplish).
Using all of the above you come up with an estimate of the value of this biz.
You might even take this valuation with you to the bank to show asset
value (and to establish the fact that you did carefully consider the
value).  This doc will also help if you need the biz itself as
collateral for any business loan you may want. (That's much better
than offering your house as collateral!)

Of the top of my head, I suspect you should get some experience
running the storefront and keeping the books of this particular shop
to gain some understanding of the business and whether you wish to
purchase it.
Secondly, you should ask the current owner what method s/he/they used
to value the business and evaluation it in against your own work.
Next, in an unrelated comment, you might wish to consider an
assets-only purchase to reduce business risk from any outstanding
warranty, unpaid taxes, loans or debts.  If, on the other hand the
value of leases and other obligations is better than the current
market, then you might want to purchase the whole business.
Your best info will come from key reccurring customers and from any
major suppliers (perhaps that trucking or shipping company).  Make a
point of visiting the major creditors such as banking officer,
landlord(s) and lienholders. You should probably have the seller
introduce you face to face. This should be an overt & aboveboard
investigation not some cheesy TV private eye routine.

>Apparently she has done very well in the
business over the years.  Is there any way to find out what her profits
have been?  Can I see her tax records?  You can see I'm very green
about business matters.

If the business is public (which i sincerely doubt) then the records
are public.  If it's privately held, then the only legal way to do it
is to ask nicely.  If she says "no", walk, no run! away from this
"opportunity" with all speed.

> ...need a lawyer
YES!  but not til after you do the valuation. I suspect this is either
an S-corp or a std corporation.  The lawyer will ensure that all the
things you purchase end up in your possession.

FYI, my MBA is in finance with a valuation emphasis.  I'm happy to
answer questions.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you... my first truly successful project!

I've been sewing for a while now, but never accomplished something of 
this scale and completeness. I am very proud of myself and so very 
grateful for the help that was given, knowingly or unknowingly, on this 
board and elsewhere. You continue to be an inspiration and a help to me 
when I need it, so, thanks!

You can link directly to a photo of it here: 
http://www.ryla.net/diaries/images/gfd/standing2.png
Or the full, three-page diary here: http://www.ryla.net/diaries/gfd01.html
Or my website here: http://www.ryla.net

Marie :)
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] sheared faux fur
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Greetings

I'm searching for a source for a faux sheared white fur.  When I say 
sheared, I mean fairly closely sheared--the pile is quite short and 
flat.  I used to be able to get a really good-quality fur of this type 
from Fabulous Furs, but to my dismay they no longer carry it.

I'd like to avoid any of the low-quality teddy-bear fur.  I'm willing to 
pay $60 or so a yard to get a good fur.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler

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Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> Greetings
> 
> I'm searching for a source for a faux sheared white fur.  When I say 
> sheared, I mean fairly closely sheared--the pile is quite short and 
> flat.  I used to be able to get a really good-quality fur of this type 
> from Fabulous Furs, but to my dismay they no longer carry it.
> 
> I'd like to avoid any of the low-quality teddy-bear fur.  I'm willing to 
> pay $60 or so a yard to get a good fur.

I'm not sure how you gauge quality, but Hancocks (the chain) carried a 
number of "nice" faux furs this spring, including a very soft, short 
sheepskin looking one that came in pastels and an off-white. I forget 
how much it was, it was over $20 a yard and I put it into the "when pigs 
fly" category for potential purchases. The stores in this area made 
displays of a couple of those shearling jackets that were popular for 
about a week this spring.



Dawn


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2006 21:21:22 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] What do you do?
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What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, 
and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
What is left then?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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>What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, 
>and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
>When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
>What is left then?

Wait till the feeling passes and do some more re-enactment later?  Get 
different re-enactment friends?  Write historical fiction?  Costume for a 
theatre?  Do live action role playing gaming?


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2006 21:38:13 +0200
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Hi Carolyn
You are always full of god soutions, you never stopped replying my mails.'
Many thanks.
I think i am going to stop now..................
Its over...........................

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?


>
>>What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, 
>>and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
>>When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
>>What is left then?
>
> Wait till the feeling passes and do some more re-enactment later?  Get 
> different re-enactment friends?  Write historical fiction?  Costume for a 
> theatre?  Do live action role playing gaming?
>
>
>        CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>          www.FunStuft.com
>
>              ///\\\\\
>             ////-@@\\\
>            ((((   7 )))
>             )((  <> ))(
>              * )   ( *
>           /----\   /---\
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Status: RO

I go through phases where I just can't motivate myself to work on yet another costume. Sometimes, I don't want to bother with all the preparation and time involved in going to a live action roleplay event. That's when I take a break for a month or two, and then I'm ready to go again!

I hope things work out for you, Bjarne. I am new to the list, but have loved looking at every picture you put up. You are truely more talented then I will ever be.

Natalie
I'm an addict, but the only 12 Step program I'm interested in is the twelve steps from here over to that bolt of fabric over there...
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Bjarne og Leif Drews 
  To: Historical Costume 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 3:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?


  Hi Carolyn
  You are always full of god soutions, you never stopped replying my mails.'
  Many thanks.
  I think i am going to stop now..................
  Its over...........................

  Bjarne
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
  To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
  Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 9:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?


  >
  >>What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, 
  >>and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
  >>When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
  >>What is left then?
  >
  > Wait till the feeling passes and do some more re-enactment later?  Get 
  > different re-enactment friends?  Write historical fiction?  Costume for a 
  > theatre?  Do live action role playing gaming?
  >
  >
  >        CarolynKayta Barrows
  > dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
  >          www.FunStuft.com
  >
  >              ///\\\\\
  >             ////-@@\\\
  >            ((((   7 )))
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  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > h-costume mailing list
  > h-costume@mail.indra.com
  > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
  > 


  _______________________________________________
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> What is left then?

All my other hobbies. As much as I love sewing, costuming and dressing 
up, it's not my entire life. Go outside, try something new. Resurrect 
old hobbies that you used to enjoy. Try out a hobby you've never done 
before. Go to the beach.

It's normal to get tired of an activity after a while and want to do 
something else. Give yourself the time off.



Dawn


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Status: RO

Many thanks .
In my youth i used to be good at telling storiesm perhaps thats an obsion?

Thanks for you being  there...........................


v 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?


> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
>> What is left then?
> 
> All my other hobbies. As much as I love sewing, costuming and dressing 
> up, it's not my entire life. Go outside, try something new. Resurrect 
> old hobbies that you used to enjoy. Try out a hobby you've never done 
> before. Go to the beach.
> 
> It's normal to get tired of an activity after a while and want to do 
> something else. Give yourself the time off.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
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I just stop for several months, and look around, go visit my family 
(just got back from a three month trip driving from long island, NY to 
Dallas, TX, and back again. put on over 7,000 miles on my truck. i 
stopped all along the way to visit any family that i know about, even 
one third cousin and several great aunts and uncles). 

I had not been very interested in sewing or much of anything for several 
months, but now that i'm back i am itching to get back to it...  I am 
spending today unbarring my sewing area from what i piled up as i was 
leaving and what my husband littered the room with, and hoping i can get 
in one small project before the i should cook dinner. 
------
Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact 
> anymore, and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> What is left then?
>
> Bjarne


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Take a break!  It sounds like the thought of doing more costuming work right 
now would stress you out; pay attention to that and just ...let it go for a 
while.  You don't have to do it if you don't want to.

But do keep up your contacts--the people who've entered your life through 
costuming don't have to leave it just because of a shift in interests.

-E House

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2006 17:59:32 -0400
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Status: RO

Bjarne,

Telling stories?  Like historical stories?  Dress up in your fabulous 
clothes and volunteer to share your talents!

Or,  just take a break for a while and try something completely 
different.

Best of luck.  We all get in a slump sometimes.  Good friends help pull 
us out!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Jul 5, 2006, at 3:53 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Many thanks .
> In my youth i used to be good at telling storiesm perhaps thats an 
> obsion?
>
> Thanks for you being  there...........................
>
>
> v ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 9:44 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
>
>
>> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>>> What is left then?
>> All my other hobbies. As much as I love sewing, costuming and 
>> dressing up, it's not my entire life. Go outside, try something new. 
>> Resurrect old hobbies that you used to enjoy. Try out a hobby you've 
>> never done before. Go to the beach.
>> It's normal to get tired of an activity after a while and want to do 
>> something else. Give yourself the time off.
>> Dawn
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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At 3:59 PM -0600 7/5/06, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>  >What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore,
>>and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
>>When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
>  >What is left then?

Try to do other non related activities...even before getting burned 
out. Seen tooooo many get in waaay to deep and then just up and 
vanish. Balance and moderation can be a good thing, of course having 
toooo many diff hobbies may be just as bad....<VBEG>

Or buy an old house/garden. That will keep you humble and looking 
forward to a break from 
plaster/paint/weeding/digging/grouting/etc/etc!

Ta
Carol, just in from huge 4 day dog event to needing to do mowing and sewing!
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2006 11:16:41 +1200
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> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore,
> and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> What is left then?

Take a complete break from it. Set yourself a week to avoid all activities
related to it, make sure all your fabrics and notions are out of sight as
well.

You will either find yourself going mad thinking of things you could be
doing, in which case you know the passion is still there and you need to
find a better way of expressing it (finding a new group, maybe even a new
era) or you'll find yourself heaving a huge sigh of relief in which case you
know you need a holiday.

I go through periods where I wonder what I'm doing with a certain group or
more especially with my website/online interaction with other costumers. I
find a few days break is enough to find what I really want from it, and then
I make any necessary changes to how I deal with issues that have
upset/angered me.

Your situation is of course much more complex. It sounds like you need to
find what really drives you, costuming and reenacting are often outlets for
a great deal of inquisitiveness and creativity. A lot of people burn out
having focussed on a single time frame/group.

If you still feel the need to create something beautiful, try out some other
areas of art just to take a break. I find photography makes me happiest, I
like to find shapes and colours in everyday items. Actually what I love
photographing more than anything are cloud formations.

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  5 19:42:57 2006
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2006 18:29:36 -0500
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Status: RO

You pack everything up and you put it away cause as soon as the bug hits you 
again you will regret your action of giving or selling them in the very 
worst way. It will hurt in your chest, it will make you cry, it will make 
your throat go dry. Pack it up nicely and as you touch each piece remember 
something good about it and fold it neatly as you put it away.

Then go and find a new set of friends that do nothing of what you did. Enjoy 
your time with them. Find a new partner or 5, have some fun.

Someday you will go back to what you loved.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 2:21 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What do you do?


> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, 
> and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> What is left then?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] What do you do?
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Go see your doctor--it sounds like you're depressed!
If you really do not want your costumes, consider donating/selling them to a
theatre group or movie costume company. Of course, if they are your
costumes, Bjarne, perhaps a museum would like them for items people can
handle when the old ones are too fragile.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 12:21 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] What do you do?


What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, 
and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two? What is
left then?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] What do you do?
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Oops, I forgot this one. You could teach. You do such fantastic work,
perhaps you could teach others how to do what you do. Some people might not
want to be re-enactors, but would like to learn just because they enjoy
creating a thing of beauty.
Or go dancing, that always cheers me up.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 12:21 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] What do you do?


What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, 
and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two? What is
left then?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
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> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
> <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 2:21 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] What do you do?
>
>
>> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact 
>> anymore, and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
>> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
>> What is left then?
>>

Bjarne, having "been there and done that" more than I care to remember
-- is it possible that you're depressed?  That's one of the hallmark
signs -- that stuff that you love doing no longer has any attraction
for you.  If there's *nothing* that attracts you, I'd seek a medical
evaluation especially if that feeling lasts longer than a week or two. 
There are some nice self-evaluation questionaires on the web.

Just give it a little time.  It could just as easily mean that you need
some space from your costumes and your embroidery for a while.  But, do
pack things away nicely.  You'll come back to it again.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sheared faux fur
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2006 14:06:45 -0500
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Some of the stuff carried by Denver Fabrics is very nice--get samples, 
though, as some is sooooft and feels very natural, and some feels just plain 
unpleasantly polyester.

-E House 

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Status: RO

Find something new that you love to do!

T.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 2:21 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] What do you do?


What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, 
and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
What is left then?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
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Status: RO

You are left with your incredible talent and US! :D

I think we all go through phases with our art.  There are times when  
I don't ever want to see another Vendel era carving. :D
I work on something totally not related to anything I have been  
working on, and then inspiration usually hits.

You will find your Muse again. Or She will find you when you see that  
perfect silk fabric and KNOW exactly what you want to make with it.
Althea


On Jul 5, 2006, at 12:21 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact  
> anymore, and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> What is left then?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do? 
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Status: RO

What's left is you!

Have felt exactly as you describe more times than I can remember.

I'd suggest that you pick up all of the things that are making you feel this 
way (be it re-enactment clothing, costuming stuff, whatever), put it into a 
box, and put it in the back of your wardrobe, or a cupboard.
Don't even look at it.

Then look about for something else to fill the time - anything, from taking 
up acting, or charity work, or learning a new language, to training to climb 
K2!!!

I guarantee that sooner or later you'll come back to your sewing and 
designing, (even if in a slightly different guise).

Good luck, and I hope you feel much better soon.

Debbie


In a message dated 7/5/06 11:01:48 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, 
> and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> What is left then?
> 
> Bjarne

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From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
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Status: RO

Maby take a break and do something totally different.
Take some distance.

But some things will never dissapear totally.
I love ballet and making costumes.
I quit ballet when I was around 15.
But started again when at 27.
I do it now twice a week and love it even more than before.

With costumes, I started to make 16th century clothing while in the SCA.
But at some point in time I noticed that I didn't have fun anymore in 
the SCA.
Sometimes You grow out of things and it is time to move on.
I started doing reenactment.
But now my top priorety is triening to make a little money with making 
fantasy costumes.
Mostly because I love making fantasy costumes for my self.
And this way I can afford them.

And making Bunny backpacks that a lot of people find totally childish 
but I just love them.
And I hope some people who buy them will have as much fun with them as I do.

Don't worry and give yourself time.
Just endyoy whatever you do.
Sometimes it is just to find a way to a different angle to look at things.
At least you know that the work you have done is loved by many people.
But what ever you do don't let it force you to do things that you don't 
want.

Good luck,
    Deredere


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Many thanks .
> In my youth i used to be good at telling storiesm perhaps thats an 
> obsion?
>
> Thanks for you being  there...........................
>
>
> v ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 9:44 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
>
>
>> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>>
>>> What is left then?
>>
>> All my other hobbies. As much as I love sewing, costuming and 
>> dressing up, it's not my entire life. Go outside, try something new. 
>> Resurrect old hobbies that you used to enjoy. Try out a hobby you've 
>> never done before. Go to the beach.
>>
>> It's normal to get tired of an activity after a while and want to do 
>> something else. Give yourself the time off.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do? 
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Status: RO

What Debbie said, Exactly!
I've had my times like that, too.  And it always comes back to me, and me
only happy when I'm making something (or reading), regardless of family or
lack of same (and I don't have much) or the SCA driving me insane....
When I burnout, I switch to another hobby.  I don't think I could *not* do
something with my hands, whether it's sewing costumes/historical clothing,
or working with textiles (spinning, weaving, knitting, embroidery,
lacemaking).  I have the advantage that my main/only real outlet for
reenactment is the SCA, which covers a broad enough time span and number of
cultures that I can change just about everything I do and focus on, and
still remain within the group.  So if I'm tired to pieces of 16th century
costuming, I can focus on translating cooking texts for a few years.  Or
learn calligraphy.  Or pick up knitting Islamic socks.
Ya gotta do what nourishes your soul, and to do that, you really need to
know what *does* nourish your soul.  So, when I'm feeling like you sound, I
take a step back for a while, give myself a break, and figure out what's
going on.  Is the job too stressful? The significant other? Are there health
issues (mental or physical)?
Change can be really, really scary, but it can be really, really good, too.
Best of luck with this....
--Sue in hot/sticky Montana....

----- Original Message -----
From: <Debloughcostumes@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?


> What's left is you!
>
> Have felt exactly as you describe more times than I can remember.
>
> I'd suggest that you pick up all of the things that are making you feel
this
> way (be it re-enactment clothing, costuming stuff, whatever), put it into
a
> box, and put it in the back of your wardrobe, or a cupboard.
> Don't even look at it.
>
> Then look about for something else to fill the time - anything, from
taking
> up acting, or charity work, or learning a new language, to training to
climb
> K2!!!
>
> I guarantee that sooner or later you'll come back to your sewing and
> designing, (even if in a slightly different guise).
>
> Good luck, and I hope you feel much better soon.
>
> Debbie
>
>
> In a message dated 7/5/06 11:01:48 PM GMT Daylight Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
> > What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact
anymore,
> > and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> > When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> > What is left then?
> >
> > Bjarne


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May I add, don't get rid of all your stuff yet!  You probably do need  a 
break--I bet that the problems you had with the green silk were more  discouraging 
than you told us at the time.
 
I wish you could come here to the States and meet some of your fans.   Now 
that is an idea--could you plan a trip to come here?  That would be a  break, 
and you would meet new people and see new places.
 
Ann Wass
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From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
References: <004701c6a068$338190d0$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
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Status: RO

The old special effect man in me says, blow them up -- a big, loud pyrotechnics 
display -- as it is always fun to watch something explode.

>From there, look at other areas of costume you may want to invest time and 
passion into,

-C.


> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore,
> and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> What is left then?



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
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Status: RO

Bjarne,
I have lurked here for a while and I have been greatly admiring your work. I
am new to re-enacting myself  but not new to the situation you describe.
I would advise you to not make any long term decision about your costumes
when you feel like this...speaking from experience if you get rid of
everything now while you are feeling really upset you may come to regret it
later. As someone else suggested packing everything away for a while or
loaning it out so that you still have it but don't have to think about it or
have it staring at you all the time. Then when you are feeling better you
can make long term decisions about your wonderful costumes.
You sound like you really need a break to get your head together...I seem to
remember that you had surgery a short while ago...this feeling could be a
side effect.
You are such a talented person and burn out can happen, but it would be sad
if you just walked away from all your hard work.
Give your self time to look around and reassess what you want to do, maybe
go in a different direction or do something totally unrelated for a while.
You may come back to your costuming again or you may not but don't make
hasty decisions when you are feeling bad.
Sue in Cold and frosty Canberra Australia.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 5:21 AM
Subject: [h-cost] What do you do?


> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore,
> and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> What is left then?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Genie Barrett <maggie.gene@justinanimator.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
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At 02:21 PM 7/5/2006, you wrote:
>What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact 
>anymore, and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
>When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
>What is left then?
>
>Bjarne

Try something totally new, but still something done in your chosen 
time period.  Take up fencing?  I always find, that when I'm 
depressed it's because my body has been idle for too long.  Exercise 
works out a multitude of problems.  Being healthy physically always 
helps my mental troubles.   I know how it feels to be alone and 
hating my life.  I also agree that going to a councilor can help.  It 
helped me...

Just know this,  You do have people who love and respect you.  We are 
all over the globe, and at the same time, we are right here in your 
home as you turn on your computer every day.  I may not be able to 
give you a physical hug, but know that Zen hugs are definitely coming 
your way.  You are NOT alone.

Genie, in Dallas, Texas
(Who would also love to see you if you decided to tour the would to 
meet all your friends.) 

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I put all of my costumes away for a few years, in the attic closet.  I took 
a very long break (6 years) and am only now feeling inspired to head back 
out!

Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 4:21 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What do you do?


> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, 
> and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> What is left then?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2006 10:50:53 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Dear Bjarne,
    I can certainly echo all the replies you've already received. Set 
things carefully aside. Take some deep breaths. Nineteenth-century 
literature suggests that what people who felt this way used to do was 
take a world tour....and if you do decide to travel, there's a place 
for you to stay in Fairfield Connecticut, for sure.
    As someone who has had some bouts of depression and also has a 
surprising number of friends who struggle with it, I would also echo 
the suggestions that you find a professional to talk with. Sometimes 
events hit on top of a physical depressed condition and things seem 
overwhelmingly bleak. This is not a feeling you can just "get over" by 
thinking happy thoughts--because sometimes life is very difficult, and 
pain is very real. But it IS a feeling you can work your way out of, 
with support; and the passage of time, the changes that the days bring, 
will do the rest if you let them.
    I've been having some of your same thoughts in the last couple of 
years. I'm really tired of teaching English part-time--all work, no 
benefits, low pay, repetitive labor, no prestige, no hope of promotion, 
no time to beef up my resume in order to change things....And theater, 
which has been my salvation over the last fifteen years, has begun to 
feel similarly laborious, similarly dead-end. And in the last three 
months, three of my friends have died (I'm getting to be that age). So 
I think I can empathize with you.
    But I have some other things in common with you, too: a lot of 
interesting and caring people I can call friends, accomplishments I can 
view with pride, a good mind, a love of beauty, and a miraculous world 
to walk around in (even though it seems to be run by madmen...).
    My temporary refuge from despair is to curl up with a good murder 
mystery to read and a bowl of ice cream. Or good music on the CD player 
and a jigsaw on the table. Not a solution, but certainly a short 
escape.
    Then, as we used to say in the hippie days, just keep on keeping on.
--Ruth Anne

Ruth Anne Baumgartner
gypsy scholar and amateur costumer
On Jul 5, 2006, at 3:21 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact 
> anymore, and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> What is left then?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact
anymore, 
> and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> What is left then?
>
> Bjarne
>
Lots of good advice here, not to much to add except that you are not
alone and I think most of us have been where it sounds like you are at
one time or another.  I few things I learned:  

Don't burn any bridges/costumes, at least not yet :).

Try something just for fun.  I know I sometimes get so caught up in a
complete project I don't have time to enjoy the little bits that are my
favorite part to research and work out.  I did this w/ some Le Pompe
patterns for example.  Small project just for fun, no deadline, work at
my leisure.

Go do some of the things you haven't been able to do because you have
deadlines or events to go to.  

And while these down-times happen, if it goes on to long do get a
check-up to be sure there is not a physical cause (I will refrain from
getting on my thyroid hobby horse here :) ).

Be well,
Catherine



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This is not really like you...
   
  and I echo what Ruth Anne said.  I also am prone to "DEPRESSION"  The blackdog. It has many names... and I'm not talking the blues.   And burn out can be a close cousin too.  
   
  First check that there is no semi-hidden physical cause.  Didn't you just have an operation?  are you still taking meds?  sometimes this can have an effect that you don't even realize.  Are you getting enough sleep?  Is it real sleep?  Aren't you in an area where it's daylight almost constantly right now?
   
  Then move on to the so-call mental cause (although I think that this is really a physical cause too.  Physical depression is an illness, like diabetes or a broken leg.)  professionals will help with medication, if necessary, talk therapy if necessary and retraining you brain not to be drepessed (almost always necessary)
   
  If it's burn out (minor or major cases) you got alot of good advice.  (I'm listening in because this is a good support system.  And I don't have an extended family to listen too.  And I have too much of a tendancy to be a burnt out middle aged woman.)
   
  remember that we all love you, and stand here around the world, on the internet, for you if you need us.  Sometime your family is not what you're born with, but what you end up with.  Think of us all as long-distance cousins!!!  We will keep proding you
   
  This is Mia in Charlotte...you're always welcome here, it's ungodly hot right now, 90s with ozone alerts, beacuse we lazy american are drivning all over the place.
   
  And Ruth Anne, I'm probably in the same age range as you.  I consiously cultivate younger friends so when the older ones "leave us"  I'll still have a bit of support...My grandmother taught me this.
   
  Thank you all for all the advice and support
   
  Mia in Charlotte, NC

 			
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Quoting Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>:

*snippage*

>
>  And Ruth Anne, I'm probably in the same age range as you.  I 
> consiously cultivate younger friends so when the older ones "leave 
> us"  I'll still have a bit of support...My grandmother taught me this.
>

I don't know that I've ever thought about it, but that's a *really* good
idea!  Not only that, but keeping up with the "younguns" helps keep you
young, too.

Susan, "Old Lady" Grad Student
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Dear Bjarne
 
you've had lots of good advice from everyone here - I just wanted to add that when I had my last, bad bout of depression (following a period of very hard work, physical illness and not giving myself a break) I didn't enjoy anything, even my beloved singing. I sing everywhere, all the time, all kinds of things and I only realised I was depressed when not one single thing made me feel like singing...
 
Pack your lovely things away, with care, in a safe place. Think about whether you need to talk to someone: I found talking, hypnosis and herbs were what I needed, along with some serious relaxation. If not, and you are really just bored with sewing, then play around until you find something you like - I know there is a system of very good adult colleges in Denmark where lots of subjects are available. 
 
Above all, get out and walk every day! If you can borrow a dog or walk with a friend/neighbour, even better. If you can see the sea or a river, even better still!  Someone else already said this but long term physical inactivity just brings my mood down without fail... reluctant as I am to admit this :-)
 
Finally, you can email any one on this list - or all of us at the same time - whenever you need to. I kind of wish I'd had the courage to do that last year. It has taken nearly a year to feel more like 'me' again and I am still fighting wavering moods and anxiety but do you know, I am so inspired by your talent and generosity of knowledge, it made me smile to read your messages even when I was still too fragile to see friends in 'real life'.  
 
I hope you all don't mind me saying all this but if everyone was open about how yes, sometimes life gets us down even when we're not in what are typically 'awful' or life-threatening situations, perhaps we wouldn't let things get so bad before we asked for help. :-)  I'm glad it's not just me!
 
Thanks for your patience everyone, and a big email *hug* to Bjarne.
 
Katherine
 
> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact
anymore, 
> and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> What is left then?
>
> Bjarne
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This is a GREAT idea.  I think tomorrow morning I am going to ask my 
neighbor if i can take her dog out for a walk and go to the little lake 
in our development!  i hope it becomes a habit!

katherine sanders wrote:
>  
> Above all, get out and walk every day! If you can borrow a dog or walk with a friend/neighbour, even better. If you can see the sea or a river, even better still!  Someone else already said this but long term 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:bjarne
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Depression stinks. I recently got on some anti-depression medication. I
wasn't aware that I was depressed, it was my husband who noticed. It hasn't
been a huge change-just less feeling blue. 
Bjarne, if you come to California, I'll drag you to the Renaissance Faire--
another time for you to try!!
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Mia Dappert
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 9:23 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re:bjarne


This is not really like you...
   
  and I echo what Ruth Anne said.  I also am prone to "DEPRESSION"  The
blackdog. It has many names... and I'm not talking the blues.   And burn out
can be a close cousin too.  
   
  First check that there is no semi-hidden physical cause.  Didn't you just
have an operation?  are you still taking meds?  sometimes this can have an
effect that you don't even realize.  Are you getting enough sleep?  Is it
real sleep?  Aren't you in an area where it's daylight almost constantly
right now?
   
  Then move on to the so-call mental cause (although I think that this is
really a physical cause too.  Physical depression is an illness, like
diabetes or a broken leg.)  professionals will help with medication, if
necessary, talk therapy if necessary and retraining you brain not to be
drepessed (almost always necessary)
   
  If it's burn out (minor or major cases) you got alot of good advice.  (I'm
listening in because this is a good support system.  And I don't have an
extended family to listen too.  And I have too much of a tendancy to be a
burnt out middle aged woman.)
   
  remember that we all love you, and stand here around the world, on the
internet, for you if you need us.  Sometime your family is not what you're
born with, but what you end up with.  Think of us all as long-distance
cousins!!!  We will keep proding you
   
  This is Mia in Charlotte...you're always welcome here, it's ungodly hot
right now, 90s with ozone alerts, beacuse we lazy american are drivning all
over the place.
   
  And Ruth Anne, I'm probably in the same age range as you.  I consiously
cultivate younger friends so when the older ones "leave us"  I'll still have
a bit of support...My grandmother taught me this.
   
  Thank you all for all the advice and support
   
  Mia in Charlotte, NC

 			
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Sneak preview the  all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different. Just
radically better. 
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Status: RO

I am taking medication for depression.  Effexor at the lowest 
dose-works for me!  Depression is a disease just like any other.  It 
requires treatment that can and may have to be of various types.  What 
do you have to lose?  Talk to a professional.  I did.  Made a world of 
difference.

I have a friend who is an Emergency Room Nurse.  She was shocked that I 
was on a leave of absence from work because "I was crazy" (my words).  
She thinks I am on the ball and have my act together.  Ha, ha!  
Remember the expression "You can fool some of the people all of the 
time..."?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Jul 6, 2006, at 7:18 PM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:

> Depression stinks. I recently got on some anti-depression medication. I
> wasn't aware that I was depressed, it was my husband who noticed. It 
> hasn't
> been a huge change-just less feeling blue.
> Bjarne, if you come to California, I'll drag you to the Renaissance 
> Faire--
> another time for you to try!!
> Sharon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On
> Behalf Of Mia Dappert
> Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 9:23 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re:bjarne
>
>
> This is not really like you...
>
>   and I echo what Ruth Anne said.  I also am prone to "DEPRESSION"  The
> blackdog. It has many names... and I'm not talking the blues.   And 
> burn out
> can be a close cousin too.
>
>   First check that there is no semi-hidden physical cause.  Didn't you 
> just
> have an operation?  are you still taking meds?  sometimes this can 
> have an
> effect that you don't even realize.  Are you getting enough sleep?  Is 
> it
> real sleep?  Aren't you in an area where it's daylight almost 
> constantly
> right now?
>
>   Then move on to the so-call mental cause (although I think that this 
> is
> really a physical cause too.  Physical depression is an illness, like
> diabetes or a broken leg.)  professionals will help with medication, if
> necessary, talk therapy if necessary and retraining you brain not to be
> drepessed (almost always necessary)
>
>   If it's burn out (minor or major cases) you got alot of good advice. 
>  (I'm
> listening in because this is a good support system.  And I don't have 
> an
> extended family to listen too.  And I have too much of a tendancy to 
> be a
> burnt out middle aged woman.)
>
>   remember that we all love you, and stand here around the world, on 
> the
> internet, for you if you need us.  Sometime your family is not what 
> you're
> born with, but what you end up with.  Think of us all as long-distance
> cousins!!!  We will keep proding you
>
>   This is Mia in Charlotte...you're always welcome here, it's ungodly 
> hot
> right now, 90s with ozone alerts, beacuse we lazy american are 
> drivning all
> over the place.
>
>   And Ruth Anne, I'm probably in the same age range as you.  I 
> consiously
> cultivate younger friends so when the older ones "leave us"  I'll 
> still have
> a bit of support...My grandmother taught me this.
>
>   Thank you all for all the advice and support
>
>   Mia in Charlotte, NC
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sneak preview the  all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different. 
> Just
> radically better.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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Status: RO


Bjarne, you are struggling with something that a lot of us are familiar
with.  Your friends, whether you can see us or not, are right here beside
you, and you can talk to us any time you like.  If that doesn't work, find
me on yahooIM.  

Kathryn had some terrific suggestions.  To them I would add: we all grow by
what we learn.  Maybe it's time to find another way to learn, even if only
for a short time.  Find a fresh, new something to get wrapped up in, and see
how things go.  

Gerita

Japanese Chin Rescue and Care
Dallas Northwest Coordinator
 
The years that a woman subtracts from her age are not lost.  They are added
to the ages of other women.  -- Diane de Poitiers (1499 - 1566)




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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2006 16:50:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] For Victorian and Civil War-era costumers
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Cathy at Fashion Fabrics, here in St. Louis, tells me there are a few
spaces left in this workshop next weekend (July 15-16). It occurs to me
this announcement may not have reached the Civil War groups or any
specialty costuming lists for the 19th century -- and I don't work in that
period, so I don't know the groups to send this to. I would very much
appreciate people forwarding this message to the appropriate
lists/groups/fora. St. Louis is a reasonable drive from many Midwestern
cities.

If you're interested, e-mail Cathy right away. It's after the original
deadline, but she'll be happy to fill the last few slots. (You can call on
the 800 number, but no one will be there over the weekend, and Cathy
doesn't usually work Mondays.)

--Robin

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2006 15:04:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cathy Champion <cacshantih@sbcglobal.net>


Vivian Murphy Workshop in St. Louis!

Vivian Murphy is teaming up with Fashion Fabrics Outlet to present a
living history workshop on general techniques of mid-19th century clothing
sewing techniques.

Date: Saturday & Sunday, July 15 & 16, 2006 from 9am till 4pm with 1 hr
off for lunch

Place: Fashion Fabrics Outlet, 10508 Baur Blvd, St. Louis, MO 63132 
314 993 4919 / 1 800 468 0602

This workshop will be a study of period design and construction techniques
- not necessarily "fitting a bodice" but learning how to construct the
entire dress in a correct period way.

You will study a few original garments, watch a film presentation, then
make "samples" of various steps and techniques. Vivian will have a garment
in various stages of construction that you will study as you work on your
samples.

There will be hand outs that you can refer to, and there will be photos of
originals in the first part of the presentation. The most important part
of the workshop is the hands on help.

There is a fee of $40 per person, with a limit of 15 ladies. Please
register by the week of July 1st.

As a special treat, those attending the workshop will be allowed to shop a
special selection of period correct fabrics on Sunday.

Your check should be made out to Vivian Murphy.

Time is running out, so you can call Cathy at 1 800 993 4919 to see if
spaces are left.  I do not work on Monday, so call after that day.

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Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2006 15:40:38 +0100 (BST)
From: Catalina Osorio Lopez <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Costuming Competition in Richardson, Texas
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There is going to be an Arts & Sciences competion on
Aug. 26,2006 in Richardson, Texas.

There will be an overall winner chosen. However there
will also be a seperate prize given for costuming
excellence. It will either be a 3ct amethyst or a 3ct
topaz.
Documentation would be nice. The winner of the main
competion will be expected to have documentation.

More details on the date/location on this website.

http://www.christhecomputergeek.net/artisan.htm


Catalina


Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


		
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Subject: [h-cost] Hi! been away
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I haven't been on this list in so long, I don't know who's out there 
anymore.



Catalina
nunca sin mi vino


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] My trip to Washington - report - some O.T.
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First I would like to thank everyone who came up with suggestions on 
where to stay and what to see. The Hotel Harrington was ideal - 
walking distance to wherever we wanted to go to, clean, a bit shabby, 
but really helpful staff.

I got to spend a whole day (!) at the DAR Museum, looking at female 
clothing from +/- 1780-1820. Alden O'Brien asked a colleague, a 
former curator, to join us, and then simply opened drawers and asked 
if we wanted to see the contents. There were short gowns, altered 
gowns, corsets, a bodiced petticoat, fans, pockets, purses, a few 
fashion plates referring to a couple of garments we were looking at...........

The next day we started off for Virginia, but got seriously 
distracted by G street Fabrics, where I topped up the stash, and 
bought several items from the Notions department. (DH meanwhile was 
buying shoes.)

The former curator very kindly arranged for Anne and I to meet with 
Linda Baumgarten at Colonial Williamsburg for an hour and a half, 
where we got to see some ladies' garments of the same period, plus 
drawers full of quilted petticoats, pockets and stomachers. We 
over-ran our time, so Linda sent me the details of what we saw, which 
I will enjoy checking out once my brain stops aching.

I spent some very pleasant,if busy, days with Anne, her DH and my DH, 
including a trip to see Colonial Williamsburg - the town - and 
Jamestown. We only hit one fabric store, honest, and I only bought a 
couple of notions, no fabric.

On the morning of the day we left, Mary, the former curator, met me, 
showed me some more items from her personal collection and we then 
had a very rushed visit through the National Gallery of Art in 
Washington, where there is a wonderful Venetian exhibition currently 
on show, I also bought a few (not!) postcards to add to my collection.

If anyone would like more details, I will be sending a newsletter to 
my friends and colleagues who are interested. I can add you to the 
list. Unfortunately there will not be photos, as I signed forms to 
keep them to myself, and not publish on the internet. (Quite normal 
with museum collections.)

Suzi

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Suzi,
   
  I would love to see the pictures and some of the info you collected. Can you add me to the list - e-mail me directly at sarah_nucci@yahoo.com
   
  Thanks,
  Sarah

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Today's Topics:

1. My trip to Washington - report - some O.T. (Suzi Clarke)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2006 21:52:40 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke 
Subject: [h-cost] My trip to Washington - report - some O.T.
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20060708213530.023f17d8@suziclarke.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


First I would like to thank everyone who came up with suggestions on 
where to stay and what to see. The Hotel Harrington was ideal - 
walking distance to wherever we wanted to go to, clean, a bit shabby, 
but really helpful staff.

I got to spend a whole day (!) at the DAR Museum, looking at female 
clothing from +/- 1780-1820. Alden O'Brien asked a colleague, a 
former curator, to join us, and then simply opened drawers and asked 
if we wanted to see the contents. There were short gowns, altered 
gowns, corsets, a bodiced petticoat, fans, pockets, purses, a few 
fashion plates referring to a couple of garments we were looking at...........

The next day we started off for Virginia, but got seriously 
distracted by G street Fabrics, where I topped up the stash, and 
bought several items from the Notions department. (DH meanwhile was 
buying shoes.)

The former curator very kindly arranged for Anne and I to meet with 
Linda Baumgarten at Colonial Williamsburg for an hour and a half, 
where we got to see some ladies' garments of the same period, plus 
drawers full of quilted petticoats, pockets and stomachers. We 
over-ran our time, so Linda sent me the details of what we saw, which 
I will enjoy checking out once my brain stops aching.

I spent some very pleasant,if busy, days with Anne, her DH and my DH, 
including a trip to see Colonial Williamsburg - the town - and 
Jamestown. We only hit one fabric store, honest, and I only bought a 
couple of notions, no fabric.

On the morning of the day we left, Mary, the former curator, met me, 
showed me some more items from her personal collection and we then 
had a very rushed visit through the National Gallery of Art in 
Washington, where there is a wonderful Venetian exhibition currently 
on show, I also bought a few (not!) postcards to add to my collection.

If anyone would like more details, I will be sending a newsletter to 
my friends and colleagues who are interested. I can add you to the 
list. Unfortunately there will not be photos, as I signed forms to 
keep them to myself, and not publish on the internet. (Quite normal 
with museum collections.)

Suzi



------------------------------

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End of h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 521
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Status: RO


I know that there are folks on this list that do one or more online
journaling things -- be it livejournal, blogspot, yahoo 360 or
something else.  Some of you just do the journal-y thing "by hand" (aka
dress diaries, project diaries. etc.)

For those of you who do more than one, which do you like best and why?

thanks,
susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Daniel Ross" <truthandliesmovie@gmail.com>
To: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: Renaissance costumes needed for shot film (corte madera)

"Truth and Lies" is a short fantasy film set a few hundred years ago. The 
themes are similar to those of Minority Report, touching on fortune-telling, 
loyalty, and betrayal.

About 10 costumes needed, including kings, guards, profits and peasents.

Send photos.


The prophets need cloaks, one green with yellow hemming, the other
white with blue. If there is no replacement for these, I do have some
robes that can be modified.

The other costumes include:
A King which simply needs to look like a King.
Four guards, but I am not sure on style here. This is flexible, but
must look official, and not too modern.
Mother, peasant. She simply needs to look poor and old fashioned.
Other extras will be needed. Robes, etc. will be great here.

Please send me more information about what you have; even if only one
costume fits, that's very helpful. And, of course, the more the
better.

Thank you for the interest.

-Daniel Ross

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I can't understand why anyone writes them at all.  I've never had the 
faintest urge.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> I know that there are folks on this list that do one or more online
> journaling things -- be it livejournal, blogspot, yahoo 360 or
> something else.  Some of you just do the journal-y thing "by hand" (aka
> dress diaries, project diaries. etc.)
> 
> For those of you who do more than one, which do you like best and why?
> 
> thanks,
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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> 
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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
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Hi Susan,

I don't do more than one, but here's my two cents worth anyhow. I like LJ because that's where all
the cool costuming people hang out. :-)

Seriously, I know there must be lots of cool costuming people who aren't on LJ, or on any blog at
all, but I knew of one or two, so I joined up and found lots and lots of them. It's a great way to
keep up with what everyone else is doing. And it's not quite the same thing as an online dress
diary because you don't have to limit yourself to just costuming topics, although some people do
have two LJ accounts to seperate the costuming stuff from the mundane stuff. :-)

I also like that I can 'friends lock' posts - most of my journal is friends locked so that nobody
that I don't allow to can view those posts. Maybe it's the same on other blogs, but I don't know
that for sure.



Bella
http://realm-of-venus.livejournal.com/



--- "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com> wrote:

> 
> I know that there are folks on this list that do one or more online
> journaling things -- be it livejournal, blogspot, yahoo 360 or
> something else.  Some of you just do the journal-y thing "by hand" (aka
> dress diaries, project diaries. etc.)
> 
> For those of you who do more than one, which do you like best and why?
> 
> thanks,
> susan



		
____________________________________________________ 
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Dating: It's free to join and check out our great singles! 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Quoting Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>:

> Hi Susan,
>
> I don't do more than one, but here's my two cents worth anyhow. I 
> like LJ because that's where all
> the cool costuming people hang out. :-)

I've noticed that there seem to be a few there.  My kid keeps telling me
I need to LJ so I've been poking around looking at what's there. 
Yahoo's layout seems to be confusing -- and I haven't a clue about
blogspot.  I know some stitchers that are there.

>
> Seriously, I know there must be lots of cool costuming people who 
> aren't on LJ, or on any blog at
> all, but I knew of one or two, so I joined up and found lots and lots 
> of them. It's a great way to
> keep up with what everyone else is doing. And it's not quite the same 
> thing as an online dress
> diary because you don't have to limit yourself to just costuming 
> topics, although some people do
> have two LJ accounts to seperate the costuming stuff from the mundane 
> stuff. :-)

Oh, yeah.  The thing that is somewhat attractive to me is the apparent
ease of setting up a dress diary type thing via LJ.  Dress Diaries
appeal to me because if you're doing something for A&S, if you keep
your diary "up to date" then you've got alot of your documentation
written -- well, depending -- but you know what I mean.  You can record
your inspiration, your thought processes, etc.

>
> I also like that I can 'friends lock' posts - most of my journal is 
> friends locked so that nobody
> that I don't allow to can view those posts. Maybe it's the same on 
> other blogs, but I don't know
> that for sure.

Well, I've set up a profile, but I haven't done anything with it yet.

Susan, FlorentineScot
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Marie Schnoor <mcschnoor@comcast.net>
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Status: RO

Kimiko - that's exactly how I feel. I'm not a SAHM, but I have mucho 
mucho respect for anyone who chooses that route. That's the hardest job, 
in my opinion! :)

But the internet is a great way to feel connected, and bounce ideas off 
of other people. Just like this list, of course... I have a LJ, which is 
mainly for personal goofing off, and a personal website 
(http://www.ryla.net) which is for my costuming, family pictures, and 
other interests. I love the fact that my dear sweet hubby is great with 
a camera, because my costumes always look better when he photographs them!

Marie :)

>Hi Fran,
>   
>  For some of us, myself included, it is a way to communicate with other people of like minds. It's also a way to communicate with friends far away, telling people of our day, our accomplishments, letting off steam, good things, bad things, whatever we want to share... sort of like the comments, off topic and on topic that people on this list write about.
>   
>  I also like to write down a dress diary, so that I can write down and share what I have learned, the mistakes I've made, maybe share photos of how the garment is progressing. I later put a complete version on my personal website for future reference.
>   
>  I don't write all the time in my LJ, but I do like to read what my "friends" on my friends list are doing. And this helps keep me in touch with other people, since I am currently a SAHM with small kids, and it helps keep me "sane" and feeling like an adult, instead of always talking on a child's level. ggoooo, ghaaa. pssssbbbttt. I have a baby and a 4 year old, so I need "conversation" with others that have interests similar to my own.
>   
>  Kimiko
>  
>  
>

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Hi Fran,
   
  For some of us, myself included, it is a way to communicate with other people of like minds. It's also a way to communicate with friends far away, telling people of our day, our accomplishments, letting off steam, good things, bad things, whatever we want to share... sort of like the comments, off topic and on topic that people on this list write about.
   
  I also like to write down a dress diary, so that I can write down and share what I have learned, the mistakes I've made, maybe share photos of how the garment is progressing. I later put a complete version on my personal website for future reference.
   
  I don't write all the time in my LJ, but I do like to read what my "friends" on my friends list are doing. And this helps keep me in touch with other people, since I am currently a SAHM with small kids, and it helps keep me "sane" and feeling like an adult, instead of always talking on a child's level. ggoooo, ghaaa. pssssbbbttt. I have a baby and a 4 year old, so I need "conversation" with others that have interests similar to my own.
   
  Kimiko
  

Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
  I can't understand why anyone writes them at all. I've never had the 
faintest urge.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

 		
---------------------------------
Want to be your own boss? Learn how on  Yahoo! Small Business. 
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Hi Fran,

   For some of us, myself included, it is a way to communicate with 
other people of like minds. It's also a way to communicate with friends 
far away, telling people of our day, our accomplishments, letting off 
steam, good things, bad things, whatever we want to share... sort of 
like the comments, off topic and on topic that people on this list write 
about.

---------------------------
Obviously many people on the net are into this, it's just not my cup of 
tea.  Ever since I graduated from college, I've spent at least 40 hours 
a week communicating with people as a profession.  That leaves me with 
little interest in doing it recreationally.  I learned long ago that if 
I have a good idea or good information, some one will always pay me for 
it. If it's not a good idea or good information, it's better just to 
keep it to myself.  I can't imagine telling strangers on the net all 
about my "day," nor can I imagine why any of them would have the 
slightest interest in any of my days, or in my feelings.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2006 17:12:33 +1000 (EST)
From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
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Status: RO

Hi Fran,

you seem to have your mind set against it, and I can sure understandabout not wanting to
communicate for fun when you do it for a living, so I'm not trying to convert you to LJ-dom or
anything like that. But one thing you wrote I felt needed to be explained, at least for the
benefit of others if not for yourself. It's not strangers you talk to about your "day" (unless you
choose to) - you get to choose who sees your posts by setting up filters. Anyone can have dozens
of strangers on their friends list if they so choose, but limit any entry to only a few select
people if they want to. 

I started off on LJ by adding only people (adding to my 'friends list') with whom I had already
communicated with on some level in 'normal' mailing lists like this one. Then, through them, I met
others with whom I have common interests. I'm happy to say I've made some friends I would
otherwise never have met, and have goten to know them and they me. Next year when I go to europe
I'll have people whith whom I share a love of fine fabrics and costuming and with whom I can meet
and go shopping! I can think of nothing better when visiting a strange country then to have
somebody there who is not a complete stranger welcome me and show me wherethe 'locals' shop and
eat. I'm looking forward to it a lot. :-)


Bella



--- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:

> Obviously many people on the net are into this, it's just not my cup of 
> tea.  Ever since I graduated from college, I've spent at least 40 hours 
> a week communicating with people as a profession.  That leaves me with 
> little interest in doing it recreationally.  I learned long ago that if 
> I have a good idea or good information, some one will always pay me for 
> it. If it's not a good idea or good information, it's better just to 
> keep it to myself.  I can't imagine telling strangers on the net all 
> about my "day," nor can I imagine why any of them would have the 
> slightest interest in any of my days, or in my feelings.
> 
> Fran



		
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2006 13:18:01 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] East Coast Trip
In-Reply-To: <20060709205252.39973.qmail@web39511.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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At 21:52 09/07/2006, you wrote:
>Suzi,
>
>   I would love to see the pictures and some of the info you 
> collected. Can you add me to the list - e-mail me directly at 
> sarah_nucci@yahoo.com
>
>   Thanks,
>   Sarah

Sarah

I will add you to my list, but there will be no photos of the museum 
items - I am not allowed to publish these without paying a huge fee! 
This is normal practice when photo-ing a museum's reserve collection 
i.e. those items not on public display.



>I got to spend a whole day (!) at the DAR Museum, looking at female
>clothing from +/- 1780-1820. Alden O'Brien asked a colleague, a
>former curator, to join us, and then simply opened drawers and asked
>if we wanted to see the contents. There were short gowns, altered
>gowns, corsets, a bodiced petticoat, fans, pockets, purses, a few
>fashion plates referring to a couple of garments we were looking at...........
>
>The next day we started off for Virginia, but got seriously
>distracted by G street Fabrics, where I topped up the stash, and
>bought several items from the Notions department. (DH meanwhile was
>buying shoes.)
>
>The former curator very kindly arranged for Anne and I to meet with
>Linda Baumgarten at Colonial Williamsburg for an hour and a half,
>where we got to see some ladies' garments of the same period, plus
>drawers full of quilted petticoats, pockets and stomachers. We
>over-ran our time, so Linda sent me the details of what we saw, which
>I will enjoy checking out once my brain stops aching.
>
>I spent some very pleasant,if busy, days with Anne, her DH and my DH,
>including a trip to see Colonial Williamsburg - the town - and
>Jamestown. We only hit one fabric store, honest, and I only bought a
>couple of notions, no fabric.
>
>On the morning of the day we left, Mary, the former curator, met me,
>showed me some more items from her personal collection and we then
>had a very rushed visit through the National Gallery of Art in
>Washington, where there is a wonderful Venetian exhibition currently
>on show, I also bought a few (not!) postcards to add to my collection.
>
>If anyone would like more details, I will be sending a newsletter to
>my friends and colleagues who are interested. I can add you to the
>list. Unfortunately there will not be photos, as I signed forms to
>keep them to myself, and not publish on the internet. (Quite normal
>with museum collections.)
>
>Suzi
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>
>End of h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 521
>*****************************************
>
>
>
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>The former curator very kindly arranged for Anne and I to meet with Linda 
Baumgarten at >Colonial Williamsburg for an hour and a half, where we got to see 
some ladies' garments of >the same period, plus drawers full of quilted 
petticoats, pockets and stomachers.

Suzi --

I have a group of Bishop spouses from the Episcopal Church who is planning a 
conference in Williamsburg March 15-18.  I had mentioned to them about the 
possiblity of being able to see some costuming close up but didn't know who to 
contact.  I would love to be able to show them something other than the regular 
"tourist" attractions there.  We will also be going to Jamestown that weekend 
too. If you have the names of the curator or someone who might give us a 
specialized tour, I would really appreciate it.  You may contact me off-llist with 
the information.

Thanks.
Donna Scarfe 
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
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Hi, folks,
Do any one around here has a picture, patterns or whatever information on
late XVIII century Spanish clothing, textiles used, etc  Any help will be
much appreciated
Joseph Pereda
hagiosfenum@prtc.net

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:East Coast Trip
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At 15:11 10/07/2006, you wrote:
> >The former curator very kindly arranged for Anne and I to meet with Linda
>Baumgarten at >Colonial Williamsburg for an hour and a half, where 
>we got to see
>some ladies' garments of >the same period, plus drawers full of quilted
>petticoats, pockets and stomachers.
>
>Suzi --
>
>I have a group of Bishop spouses from the Episcopal Church who is planning a
>conference in Williamsburg March 15-18.  I had mentioned to them about the
>possiblity of being able to see some costuming close up but didn't 
>know who to
>contact.  I would love to be able to show them something other than 
>the regular
>"tourist" attractions there.  We will also be going to Jamestown that weekend
>too. If you have the names of the curator or someone who might give us a
>specialized tour, I would really appreciate it.  You may contact me 
>off-llist with
>the information.


I'll contact you off list - need to ask if "my" contact is happy to 
pass on your details.

Suzi

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Susan B. Farmer wrote:

>  which do you like best and why?
> 

I have my own website and I prefer it over the blog services because I 
have better control over it all. I can choose what it looks like, what I 
want to say on it, how much space I use, and what features I want. 
Nobody can arbitrarily delete my pages over TOS violations. I have 20+ 
gig of photo space. I can password protect portions, too.

I started long before blogging became popular, and just found the format 
of those sites to be restrictive. Obviously, there's a lot more work and 
technical expertise involved in your own site and it's not going to be 
the best solution for everyone.

Like Fran, I don't want to 'bare all' on my website, and I don't keep a 
daily journal. I started putting up project-specific journals in an 
effort to show newcomers to the hobby  (the focus of my site is 
costuming for beginners) that even when you're experienced and think you 
know what you're doing you can still have a difficult and frustrating 
time with a costume, and that it can be overcome.

Fortunately, there's room for all of us to do what we like best. :)

Dawn


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Bella wrote:
> Hi Fran,
> 
> you seem to have your mind set against it

There's no reason why I should have my mind set for it--blogging is 
purely optional.

,But one thing you wrote I felt needed to be explained, at least for the
> benefit of others if not for yourself. It's not strangers you talk to about your "day" (unless you
> choose to) - you get to choose who sees your posts by setting up filters. 

I've looked at LiveJournal--I had an account for one day to research 
what it was about--and I've run across a great many blogs on the net 
while looking for other things. It's not like I've never read a blog, or 
that the concept is new to me.  But, have you ever seen the quote by 
computer scientist Robert Wilensky:

"We've all heard that a million monkeys banging on a million typewriters 
will eventually reproduce the entire works of Shakespeare. Now, thanks 
to the Internet, we know this is not true."

Although some people produce blogs like editorial columns, 
professionally done and with real content, overall, the amount of sheer 
drivel on the Internet is overwhelming.  I understand well that the 
human urge to communicate is fairly universal. It's the driving force of 
most of my life, in one way or another.  What is opaque to me is the 
blurring of public and private boundaries.  I've seen a great many 
blogs--they are by no means all on LiveJournal or private--with lengthy 
recitals about the weather that day, someone's feelings about events 
only important to them and their intimate circle, and on and on.  And my 
reaction is,_who cares_? I think things like that should be restricted 
to a private diary--though I don't keep one--or to a handful of truly 
intimate friends and relations.

Obviously anyone is free to post anything they want. Me included.  But, 
the corollary is a lot of people won't read it, me included (nor do I 
expect everyone to hang on my lips either).  Hey, I've got a couple of 
hundred really good, professionally written books sitting on my to-read 
pile, and I've got several on my to-write pile.  To me, getting involved 
with my own or anyone else's written recitals about daily trivia and 
their feelings about it is a sheer waste of time.

But I'm not a chat person, apparently particularly in comparison to most 
women (as opposed to men). Years ago I quit going to the kind of parties 
where people stand around and talk to each other because I was spending 
most of them holed up in the host's bedroom (hoping they wouldn't come 
in and think I was up to something seriously weird with their underwear 
drawer) reading a good book (I take one everywhere I go).

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



Anyone can have dozens
> of strangers on their friends list if they so choose, but limit any entry to only a few select
> people if they want to. 
> 
> I started off on LJ by adding only people (adding to my 'friends list') with whom I had already
> communicated with on some level in 'normal' mailing lists like this one. Then, through them, I met
> others with whom I have common interests. I'm happy to say I've made some friends I would
> otherwise never have met, and have goten to know them and they me. Next year when I go to europe
> I'll have people whith whom I share a love of fine fabrics and costuming and with whom I can meet
> and go shopping! I can think of nothing better when visiting a strange country then to have
> somebody there who is not a complete stranger welcome me and show me wherethe 'locals' shop and
> eat. I'm looking forward to it a lot. :-)
> 
> 
> Bella
> 
> 
> 
> --- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>>Obviously many people on the net are into this, it's just not my cup of 
>>tea.  Ever since I graduated from college, I've spent at least 40 hours 
>>a week communicating with people as a profession.  That leaves me with 
>>little interest in doing it recreationally.  I learned long ago that if 
>>I have a good idea or good information, some one will always pay me for 
>>it. If it's not a good idea or good information, it's better just to 
>>keep it to myself.  I can't imagine telling strangers on the net all 
>>about my "day," nor can I imagine why any of them would have the 
>>slightest interest in any of my days, or in my feelings.
>>
>>Fran
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> ____________________________________________________
> The LOST Ninja blog: Exclusive clues, clips and gossip. 
> http://au.blogs.yahoo.com/lostninja 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 
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>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2006 21:59:27 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <20060710045927.4233.qmail@web32202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Hi Fran,
>
>   For some of us, myself included, it is a way to communicate with other people of like minds. It's also a way to communicate with friends far away, telling people of our day, our accomplishments, letting off steam, good things, bad things, whatever we want to share... sort of like the comments, off topic and on topic that people on this list write about.

What Kimiko said above. I'm not a SAHM, but I do work in a field far
removed from costume and I have other specific and non-mainstream
interests, so LJ and other online forums (and lists like this one) are
a way to keep in touch with like-minded/interested people, see what
they're doing, compare notes, etc.

It's also good as a "keeping people up to date" place - sort of a
substitute for the yearly Christmas letter in which you tell everyone
what you've done for the last year; this way you save postage and
update it more frequently.

Given the slow nature of most of my costume projects, I don't keep a
separate dress diary, but I do post in my general journal about what
I'm working on when there's a development, in addition to my usual
every day stuff.

If anyone on LJ wants to Friend or Friend back, drop me a private line.

Allison T.
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Siglo XVIII Spain
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http://www.fundacionjakober.org/spain5.html

Portraits of Carlos VI, Isabel II and Amadeus I should be a good jumping off 
point.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_IV_of_Spain

Infanta Eulalia
www.npg.org.uk/live/search/person.asp?LinkID=mp69533


Catalina
nunca sin mi vino


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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2006 19:26:23 -0400
From: Elizabeth <contessaisabel@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
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Hello list, I don't usually post here am more of a lurker, but I have to say
something.


"But, 
the corollary is a lot of people won't read it, me included "

How do you know what others will read or not read?

"But I'm not a chat person"

Could have fooled me.

"Years ago I quit going to the kind of parties
> where people stand around and talk to each other because I was spending
> most of them holed up in the host's bedroom (hoping they wouldn't come
> in and think I was up to something seriously weird with their underwear
> drawer) reading a good book (I take one everywhere I go)."

How sad and insulting to the host and the guests.

If you don't like blogging why do you subscribe to this banal and boring
social and rather chatty costume list, and why did you choose to write this
rather long response?

I suggest you stop wasting your time here and begin working on that long
list of books you want to write.

I enjoy LJ (Waves to Bella) and what my friends have to say.  And I hold a
BA in English Lit!  HA!  And am a candidate for my MAT in Education!

Guess I'm a Monkey.

Elizabeth




On 7/10/06 12:33 PM, "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> Bella wrote:
>> Hi Fran,
>> 
>> you seem to have your mind set against it
> 
> There's no reason why I should have my mind set for it--blogging is
> purely optional.
> 
> ,But one thing you wrote I felt needed to be explained, at least for the
>> benefit of others if not for yourself. It's not strangers you talk to about
>> your "day" (unless you
>> choose to) - you get to choose who sees your posts by setting up filters.
> 
> I've looked at LiveJournal--I had an account for one day to research
> what it was about--and I've run across a great many blogs on the net
> while looking for other things. It's not like I've never read a blog, or
> that the concept is new to me.  But, have you ever seen the quote by
> computer scientist Robert Wilensky:
> 
> "We've all heard that a million monkeys banging on a million typewriters
> will eventually reproduce the entire works of Shakespeare. Now, thanks
> to the Internet, we know this is not true."
> 
> Although some people produce blogs like editorial columns,
> professionally done and with real content, overall, the amount of sheer
> drivel on the Internet is overwhelming.  I understand well that the
> human urge to communicate is fairly universal. It's the driving force of
> most of my life, in one way or another.  What is opaque to me is the
> blurring of public and private boundaries.  I've seen a great many
> blogs--they are by no means all on LiveJournal or private--with lengthy
> recitals about the weather that day, someone's feelings about events
> only important to them and their intimate circle, and on and on.  And my
> reaction is,_who cares_? I think things like that should be restricted
> to a private diary--though I don't keep one--or to a handful of truly
> intimate friends and relations.
> 
> Obviously anyone is free to post anything they want. Me included.  But,
> the corollary is a lot of people won't read it, me included (nor do I
> expect everyone to hang on my lips either).  Hey, I've got a couple of
> hundred really good, professionally written books sitting on my to-read
> pile, and I've got several on my to-write pile.  To me, getting involved
> with my own or anyone else's written recitals about daily trivia and
> their feelings about it is a sheer waste of time.
> 
> But I'm not a chat person, apparently particularly in comparison to most
> women (as opposed to men). Years ago I quit going to the kind of parties
> where people stand around and talk to each other because I was spending
> most of them holed up in the host's bedroom (hoping they wouldn't come
> in and think I was up to something seriously weird with their underwear
> drawer) reading a good book (I take one everywhere I go).
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone can have dozens
>> of strangers on their friends list if they so choose, but limit any entry to
>> only a few select
>> people if they want to.
>> 
>> I started off on LJ by adding only people (adding to my 'friends list') with
>> whom I had already
>> communicated with on some level in 'normal' mailing lists like this one.
>> Then, through them, I met
>> others with whom I have common interests. I'm happy to say I've made some
>> friends I would
>> otherwise never have met, and have goten to know them and they me. Next year
>> when I go to europe
>> I'll have people whith whom I share a love of fine fabrics and costuming and
>> with whom I can meet
>> and go shopping! I can think of nothing better when visiting a strange
>> country then to have
>> somebody there who is not a complete stranger welcome me and show me wherethe
>> 'locals' shop and
>> eat. I'm looking forward to it a lot. :-)
>> 
>> 
>> Bella
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>> Obviously many people on the net are into this, it's just not my cup of
>>> tea.  Ever since I graduated from college, I've spent at least 40 hours
>>> a week communicating with people as a profession.  That leaves me with
>>> little interest in doing it recreationally.  I learned long ago that if
>>> I have a good idea or good information, some one will always pay me for
>>> it. If it's not a good idea or good information, it's better just to
>>> keep it to myself.  I can't imagine telling strangers on the net all
>>> about my "day," nor can I imagine why any of them would have the
>>> slightest interest in any of my days, or in my feelings.
>>> 
>>> Fran
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ____________________________________________________
>> The LOST Ninja blog: Exclusive clues, clips and gossip.
>> http://au.blogs.yahoo.com/lostninja
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060706162318.53856.qmail@web30111.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<20060706123445.0flpl68e80so8go8@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: friends (was Re: [h-cost] Re:bjarne
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2006 20:45:41 -0400
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>>  And Ruth Anne, I'm probably in the same age range as you.  I consiously 
>> cultivate younger friends so when the older ones "leave us"  I'll still 
>> have a bit of support...My grandmother taught me this.
>>
>
> I don't know that I've ever thought about it, but that's a *really* good
> idea!  Not only that, but keeping up with the "younguns" helps keep you
> young, too.

And, from my "side" of things, keeping up with the "olduns" gives you a 
different perspective of life, too! 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: friends (was Re: [h-cost] Re:bjarne
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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

>>>  And Ruth Anne, I'm probably in the same age range as you.  I 
>>> consiously cultivate younger friends so when the older ones "leave 
>>> us"  I'll still have a bit of support...My grandmother taught me this.
>>>
>>
>> I don't know that I've ever thought about it, but that's a *really* good
>> idea!  Not only that, but keeping up with the "younguns" helps keep you
>> young, too.
>
>
> And, from my "side" of things, keeping up with the "olduns" gives you 
> a different perspective of life, too!

Absolutely. Age is nothing but a number; it doesn't reflect your soul.

I've met quite a few mature 17- and 18-year-olds and some rather 
immature 50-year-olds. It's all who you decide to be. :)

Marie
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Status: RO

I'll chime in with a wooden nickel or two, for what it's worth.

I've never gotten into that document every stitch diary thing. I am too busy thinking about the work I am doing, where it needs to go and how to get there to worry about where my camera is or accessing some convoluted file system (my husband set up my system, and thus is a reflection of his odd, uncommunicative mind... not very user friendly.)  to tell everyone how my day's work went. I have people asking me to do it, but I am just not wired for it. I never kept up with a diary as a kid, I am lousy at sending letters - I have the attention span of a gnat even for email, for that matter. Occasionally I'll take a pic or two if it's something really bizarre or way left of the accepted centre. I would rather show someone in person, talk face to face and interact directly. That is when I really start flooding with ideas and information.
My network is also to blame for my lack of readily available photographs; my camera software is in my husbands computer which is an Apple, thus I haven't the foggiest how things work. Asking him is like pulling hen's teeth so, I find myself very efficient in my photography. 
Have I found other's LJ and blogs useful and interesting? Occasionally. Do I tend to find a plethora of information I don't care about/need to know? Yes. I am with Dawn on this one, I keep my stuff on my website (which I can't even keep up to that - I have *years* of stuff that has to be put on there) which having to do all that technical schtuff to get it looking right and operating efficiently, one finds good reason to not post every last iota of thought onto it.

All this quite ironic coming from a person who has a difficult time *not* talking for extended periods of time. ;-)

Kathy
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
 
Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131


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> 
> If you don't like blogging why do you subscribe to this banal and boring
> social and rather chatty costume list, and why did you choose to write this
> rather long response?
> 
> I suggest you stop wasting your time here and begin working on that long
> list of books you want to write.


It is not an insult if I express an opinion that you consider 
controversial, and which was in no way directed at you personally.  I 
have no idea if you have a blog, but if you do I've never read it and so 
was not referring to it. It is not a personal insult if I say I prefer 
to read certain kinds of things and not others.  I consider many types 
of books and periodicals a waste of time too.  And if you disagree with 
me, it is not any valid kind of argument to claim you feel insulted or 
to try to claim I'm contradicting myself.  And it's not a personal 
insult if I'm different from you.

I subscribe to email lists for information, not chat or personal 
relationships.  I don't read most of the emails in any of them. And 
you're free not to read mine if you consider them too long or too boring 
or whatever.  It usually only takes me a few minutes to write a page of 
nonpublishable material, so it's not much investment on my part. It's 
not as if I edit and proofread it, or otherwise try to produce 
professional work.  If I wrote a blog I'd feel obligated to do all that 
and it would take much too much time.

Blog to your heart's content--it doesn't matter to me.  I'm free not to 
read blogs. And you're free not to read my emails--that doesn't matter 
to me either.  Filter them out via your email program or your ISP.  I 
would be a better course than feeling insulted every time I disagree 
with you.

And yes, I'm working on writing a book today.  It's what I do every day. 
    It's what I've done every day of my life, usually including 
weekends, ever since I graduated from college--unless I was working on a 
magazine or a technical manual.  I just think it would be inane to post 
about it every time I finish a section or something.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
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I don't much care to do a blog or read most of the blogs out there.  I
know they have their uses, like when my niece was studying in Germany
and could post what was going on for the family at home.  And
occassionally I'll look at someone's dress diary if there's a direct
link to something that peaks my interest.

But in general I prefer to keep my plans to myself until I see how
they're going to turn out and there's also a time thing.  I can see
where doing a blog would end up eating time that should otherwise be
for doing one of my many projects.

So while blogs are okay for other people, I can live without them.

alex
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
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Hi, Bjarne,
For a costumer as enthusiastic as you have been, these sound like  
scary questions. I hope you are okay.
What I've found is that friends and enthusiasms are cyclic --  
actually I've found even depression is cyclic -- and that everything,  
including relationships and my mood, waxes and wanes. So I try, now  
in my middle age, not to make too much of the waning periods, not to  
do anything too extreme (like throwing out all my costumes or  
declaring a friendship truly over) on the basis of a low time. If I'm  
really bored with something, I put it away and mark in my notebook  
the date. If in a year I am still bored with it, I think about where  
it might be donated or given away so it could benefit somebody else.  
If I find myself thinking of a friend I haven't heard from in a long  
time, sometimes I drop them a note -- often, despite my previous bad  
behavior, they are surprisingly happy to hear from me!

My family is too big a problem to get into on a public list, but  
let's just say I've put them away for a year or two at a time, too,  
and they were still there -- and just as big a problem -- when I got  
back to them. ;-)

Do take care.
Lauren

On Jul 5, 2006, at 3:21 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact  
> anymore, and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
> When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?
> What is left then?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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	<20060710191204.90176.qmail@web52102.mail.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 18:42:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

     I'm another non-blogger.  I think it would be sad if the information
shared on this list was diminished because a majority decided to do
blogs instead.

     I'm on a number of lists where occasionally someone will post a link
to a blog or web page if they have posted something relevant or want
to show a finished project.  Also in most cases any comments are
posted to the blog or personally to the individual rather than back
to the list.

     A key phrase for me is "signal to noise ratio" — how much is posted
that's of interest to me compared to other information?  I might read
a blog if I like someone's writing style, and then there are some
that are just plain amazing:

http://houseoffame.blogspot.com/

     -Carol

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060710191204.90176.qmail@web52102.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 11:50:21 +1200
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Status: RO

I have two lj's and am pretty open about why I started them and why I
actually have two.

I started my first one to record how I was dealing with a chronic
debilitating illness. The fact was I couldn't write at the time but typing
could be done without causing too much strain. I could also choose to go
back and spell check if need be. I never did because very few people were
reading it and I never expected many to even if they did stumble across my
journal. I soon decided to make it friends only because I didn't want to
bore many people about how the latest mouth ulcer was going and in fact so
that no stranger who might be lurking would know when I was in a
particularly vulnerable state.

Pretty soon my costuming notes, outgrew my daily notes so I created a
costume specific journal where I could nut out ideas and those who wondered
how on earth we costumers actually work could see the whole process.

You'd be surprised how helpful it is for those starting to see that those
who do this regularly manage to deal with the cat or a child or simple
working out a pattern piece.


<<I've never gotten into that document every stitch diary thing. I am too
busy thinking about the work I am doing, where it needs to go and how to get
there to worry about where my camera is or accessing some convoluted file
system (my husband set up my system, and thus is a reflection of his odd,
uncommunicative mind... not very user friendly.)  to tell everyone how my
day's work went. I have people asking me to do it, but I am just not wired
for it. I never kept up with a diary as a kid, I am lousy at sending
letters - I have the attention span of a gnat even for email, for that
matter. >>

With many online journals you have a small client that runs in the
background that you can just click on and type up a really brief note. This
is the only reason I manage to keep up regularly. If I had to log in through
the website and then upload photos every time it would languish like my
written journals I started when I was younger. I'm not saying this would be
useful for you, but even I didn't realise there was such an ability until
about a year into having mine. At which time my updates suddenly increased.

I find it a much more user friendly place. I can help far more people by
giving them a quiet note in their journal than trumpeting across a huge list
"you could/should have done it this way."

In fact more people are willing to ask question in their own journals that
fill up a list with talk on a minor subject. Probably because they have been
scared off in the past for doing so.

I find all the forms of communication online useful. There are nuggets of
gold on all the lists and journals I am involved with.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Sure would like to hear from you, Bjarne. How are you doing?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

You are a nuggest of gold in the online world, whatever forum, mailing list, or blog you may be using. I want to say Thank You for sharing what you've learned, and thereby teaching many of us along the way.
   
  Kimiko
  

michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
  I find all the forms of communication online useful. There are nuggets of
gold on all the lists and journals I am involved with.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com


 		
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 23:28:08 -0400
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Bjarne,

Yes !  Please say Hi to all of us.  We are concerned.

Hope you are feeling better.

Susan
(USA)

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Jul 11, 2006, at 6:12 PM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:

> Sure would like to hear from you, Bjarne. How are you doing?
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
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I've got a copy of Blanch Payne.  What's the best and/or the most
commonly used text on historic costume?

A friend was asking.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] kingdom of heaven: blue surcoat and cape
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Hi all,
  Someone has just asked me to make for him a costume from the Kingdom of heaven, the blue surcoat and the blue cape which Orlando B. is wearing. Here are some pictures, including one "replica" which is being sold by realarmourofgod.com. 
   
  http://www.darkhorizons.com/2005/kingdom/kingdom16.jpg
  http://www.darkhorizons.com/2005/kingdom/kingdom4.jpg
  http://art.allayers.com/images/large/kingdom_of_heaven4.jpg
  http://www.realarmorofgod.com/shop/popup_image.php/pID/597
   
  The thing I can't figure out is the cloak or something Orlando has around the neck (first picture). On the third link there is a picture of some cape which looks it could be the "neck thing". But I really don't know. What do you think? How would the pattern look like to make such a shape? 
  Another question is the cape with sleeves (second and fourth link). It looks it has a large hood, but it isn't sure, and it seems that the hood and the body are from one piece - the hood isn't sewn to the garment. Am I right? Has someone seen the movie who can tell me? Perhaps it is possible there to see the back ot the garments?
   
  Thanks, 
   
  Zuzana 

 		
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In a message dated 7/12/2006 1:13:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:

I've got  a copy of Blanch Payne.  What's the best and/or the most
commonly used  text on historic costume?



Do you have the revised edition?  It is probably as good as any of the  
general texts--they all have their strengths and weaknesses.  The other  standard 
text is Phyllis Tortora and Keith Eubanks, "Survey of Historic Costume"  2nd 
ed. from Fairchild Publications.  Others might have different opinions  but, of 
the readily available general survey texts, I think it is a toss up  between 
these two.  Another pretty good book, but unfortunately out of  print, is 
Douglas Russell's "Costume History and Style" (Prentice-Hall,  1983). When I 
co-taught a class on period styles in the theatre dept., my  fellow teacher (a set 
designer) really liked Russell because of his approach  with decorative arts 
and also the way he chose to divide his material into  periods.
 
Ann Wass
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
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michaela wrote:

>In fact more people are willing to ask question in their own journals that
>fill up a list with talk on a minor subject. Probably because they have been
>scared off in the past for doing so.
>
>I find all the forms of communication online useful. There are nuggets of
>gold on all the lists and journals I am involved with.
>
>Michaela de Bruce
>http://glittersweet.com
>  
>
I totally agree with you, Michaela. Thank you for sharing your personal 
story. Yours is a blog I enjoy reading.

And, interestingly, enough, it's my circle of favorite blogs which keep 
me inspired when I get stuck in a project. More than once, I have 
e-mailed the owner of a blog and asked them about their thread choices, 
or their accessories, or whether or not to pre-wash something. I've 
always gotten a friendly response.

I think some people are just naturally more open--I don't enjoy talking 
about the daily grind, but rather about my projects and what status they 
are in. As a self-taught seamstress, I find that open and friendly 
dialogue much, much more helpful than any high-level sewing book. Books 
are great for research, but it's rather hard to say, "Oi, book! Does 
this make my bum look big?"

Marie
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume texts
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Quoting AnnBWass@aol.com:

>
> In a message dated 7/12/2006 1:13:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:
>
>> I've got  a copy of Blanch Payne.  What's the best and/or the most
>> commonly used  text on historic costume?
>
>
>
> Do you have the revised edition?

Probably not, it's the 1965 edition -- and there's no mention of
"revided" anywhere in that front matter.  (I know that there's a term
for it, I just don't know what it is!)  I had no idea it was still in
print!

> It is probably as good as any of the
> general texts--they all have their strengths and weaknesses.  The 
> other  standard
> text is Phyllis Tortora and Keith Eubanks, "Survey of Historic Costume"  2nd
> ed. from Fairchild Publications.  Others might have different 
> opinions  but, of
> the readily available general survey texts, I think it is a toss up  between
> these two.  Another pretty good book, but unfortunately out of  print, is
> Douglas Russell's "Costume History and Style" (Prentice-Hall,  1983). When I
> co-taught a class on period styles in the theatre dept., my  fellow 
> teacher (a set
> designer) really liked Russell because of his approach  with decorative arts
> and also the way he chose to divide his material into  periods.

I've seen Russell -- and I do like his approach.  I"ll have to take a
gander at Tortora & Eubanks.

Thanks!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume texts
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In a message dated 7/12/2006 8:11:46 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:


Probably not, it's the 1965 edition -- and there's no mention  of
"revised" anywhere in that front matter.  (I know that there's a  term
for it, I just don't know what it is!)  I had no idea it was  still in
print!



It was in print until last year, when it went out of print.  I prefer  it for 
my students because there is more historic content and it weighs less and  is 
smaller (thinking of student back packs).  However, the Eubank and  Tortora 
book (which I feel is geared more toward the fashion designer than the  costume 
designer-lots of 20th century) now comes with its own Power Point which  is 
also Smart Board friendly and has a final page of Internet links which you  can 
click on and bring up for the class if you have a smart board and/or your  
computer has an Internet connection.  However, the Power Point lectures are  
skimpy in visual images so I added some from my own Power Point lectures.   I'm 
feeling like it's time for a new text.  Anyone out there up to the  task?  
 
Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kingdom of heaven: blue surcoat and cape
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Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> Hi all,
>   Someone has just asked me to make for him a costume from the Kingdom of heaven, the blue surcoat and the blue cape which Orlando B. is wearing. Here are some pictures, including one "replica" which is being sold by realarmourofgod.com. 
>    
>   http://www.darkhorizons.com/2005/kingdom/kingdom16.jpg
>   http://www.darkhorizons.com/2005/kingdom/kingdom4.jpg
>   http://art.allayers.com/images/large/kingdom_of_heaven4.jpg
>   http://www.realarmorofgod.com/shop/popup_image.php/pID/597
>    
>   The thing I can't figure out is the cloak or something Orlando has around the neck (first picture).

My guess is it is like the guys in the background on the 2nd picture, a 
piece of fabric with a hole in it for the head. Hangs longer in the 
back, comes down to the chest in front. It's draped differently on a few 
people. Like a poncho.



> On the third link there is a picture of some cape which looks it could be the "neck thing". 

The brown thing around his neck is a cowl/hood. This one looks like it 
is a circle with a hood attached to the center hole. The medieval 
equivalent of a hoodie.



But I really don't know. What do you think? How would the pattern look 
like to make such a shape?
>   Another question is the cape with sleeves (second and fourth link). It looks it has a large hood, but it isn't sure, and it seems that the hood and the body are from one piece 

I doubt the hood was cut in one with the coat, there's almost certainly 
a seam around the neck area.

You might be able to adapt something like Simplicity 9887.



Dawn


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Muchas gracias. Tambien busco modoas o vestuarios del pueblo comun, como
obreros, esclavos, sirvientes,marinos, albañiles,etc del siglo xviii.
JP

-----Original Message-----
From: Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez
[mailto:ladycatalina@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 7:01 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Siglo XVIII Spain


http://www.fundacionjakober.org/spain5.html

Portraits of Carlos VI, Isabel II and Amadeus I should be a good jumping off

point.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_IV_of_Spain

Infanta Eulalia
www.npg.org.uk/live/search/person.asp?LinkID=mp69533


Catalina
nunca sin mi vino





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Still looking for some XVIII century Spanish Non Court, nor nobility
clothing like artisans, servants,etc.
JP

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> I think some people are just naturally more open--I don't enjoy talking 
> about the daily grind, but rather about my projects and what status they 
> are in. As a self-taught seamstress, I find that open and friendly 
> dialogue much, much more helpful than any high-level sewing book. Books 
> are great for research, but it's rather hard to say, "Oi, book! Does 
> this make my bum look big?"

That's just the difference between whether you prefer 
personal/emotional/socially supportive dialog or straight information 
without it.  A great many sewing and wardrobe planning books will tell 
you things like, "Having large, bright flowers or wide horizontal 
stripes across the back of your pants is guaranteed to make your bum 
look large."  And if you've got any doubt, consult a mirror.

Information is one thing and social support is another.  The two don't 
have to be connected by any means.  Not everyone has a strong need for 
social support/approval.  I agree that's what many blogs seem to be for, 
it just holds no interest for me personally.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Zuzana,
 
Here's a link to another site selling reproductions of the costumes, including the cape in question: 
http://www.bytheswordinc.com/acatalog/Kingdom_of_Heaven_Clothing.html
 
Apparently there was a documentary on the costumes on the 4-disk director's cut version of the movie: http://imdb.com/title/tt0815448/  Maybe you can rent it.
 
HTH,
Tea Rose


Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 03:03:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] kingdom of heaven: blue surcoat and cape

Hi all,
  Someone has just asked me to make for him a costume from the Kingdom of 
heaven, the blue surcoat and the blue cape which Orlando B. is wearing. 
 
  The thing I can't figure out is the cloak or something Orlando has around the 
neck (first picture). 
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Zuzana,
 
Here's a link to another site selling reproductions of the costumes, including the cape in question: 
http://www.bytheswordinc.com/acatalog/Kingdom_of_Heaven_Clothing.html
 
Apparently there was a documentary on the costumes on the 4-disk director's cut version of the movie: http://imdb.com/title/tt0815448/  Maybe you can rent it.
 
HTH,
Tea Rose


Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 03:03:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] kingdom of heaven: blue surcoat and cape

Hi all,
  Someone has just asked me to make for him a costume from the Kingdom of 
heaven, the blue surcoat and the blue cape which Orlando B. is wearing. 
 
  The thing I can't figure out is the cloak or something Orlando has around the 
neck (first picture). 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume texts
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In a message dated 7/12/2006 10:07:39 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:

Probably  not, it's the 1965 edition -- and there's no mention of
"revided" anywhere  in that front matter.  (I know that there's a term
for it, I just  don't know what it is!)  I had no idea it was still  in
print!



The second edition came out in 1992, with revisions by Geitel Winakor and  
Jane Farrell-Beck.  There is discussion about a third edition at some  point.
 
I believe the 1st ed. had patterns it it--am I remembering correctly?   They 
are not in the 2nd ed.
 
Ann Wass
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Still looking for some XVIII century Spanish Non Court, nor nobility
clothing like artisans, servants,etc.
JP

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Fran wrote:
  Not everyone has a strong need for
> social support/approval.  I agree that's what many blogs seem to be for, 
> it just holds no interest for me personally.

I'd like to recommend the use of blogs for another reason, one that we 
recommend to our faculty and students quite often: personal 
organization. While bookmarking sites like del.icio.us are great at 
helping you organize your bookmarks, blogs can help you in a slightly 
different way. While blog posts are generally organized chronologically, 
and you can organize them by category, at the heart of blogging systems 
is a search engine. So, one way to use a blog is as a storage place for 
items or articles you find online, to which you can add your comments. 
Rather than keeping a long list of indecipherable bookmarks in the 
bookmark file of your browser (and if you use one than one browser or 
computer this can be a pain), a blog can store your bookmarks, your 
comments about those bookmarks, and some additional keywords or terms on 
which you would like to be able to search in future. When you want to go 
back and find that wonderful article on such-and-such or that beautiful 
image of that fantastic gown, a quick search of your blog will probably 
turn it up faster than any other way. Very handy indeed, and you need 
never use it for publishing your innermost secrets!

- Hope

---------------
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vermont

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Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 12:46:05 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Really OT! But too funny....
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>These are the winners in the [in]famous Bulwer-Lytton
>Fiction Contest.... a contest for the worst opening line to a novel ever.

The link was dead, and searching on the SJState web page didn't turn up 
anything under Bulwer-Lytton.  Now what?


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Really OT! But too funny....
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Their home page is:

http://www.bulwer-lytton.com/

I won the Children's Literature category in 2004, which was the first 
time I entered, after which I decided to retire from it with my honor? 
?? intact.  This year's lot of winners is exceptionally good (and rather 
clothing-oriented in places).

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> 
>> These are the winners in the [in]famous Bulwer-Lytton
>> Fiction Contest.... a contest for the worst opening line to a novel ever.
> 
> 
> The link was dead, and searching on the SJState web page didn't turn up 
> anything under Bulwer-Lytton.  Now what?
> 
> 
>        CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>          www.FunStuft.com
> 
>              ///\\\\\
>             ////-@@\\\
>            ((((   7 )))
>             )((  <> ))(
>              * )   ( *
>           /----\   /---\
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume texts
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Quoting AnnBWass@aol.com:

>
> In a message dated 7/12/2006 10:07:39 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:
>
> Probably  not, it's the 1965 edition -- and there's no mention of
> "revided" anywhere  in that front matter.  (I know that there's a term
> for it, I just  don't know what it is!)  I had no idea it was still  in
> print!
>
>
>
> The second edition came out in 1992, with revisions by Geitel Winakor and
> Jane Farrell-Beck.  There is discussion about a third edition at some  point.
>
> I believe the 1st ed. had patterns it it--am I remembering correctly?   They
> are not in the 2nd ed.

There are indeed patterns in my book.  They're like 1/16th scale ...

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Quoting Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>:

>
> I'd like to recommend the use of blogs for another reason, one that 
> we recommend to our faculty and students quite often: personal 
> organization. While bookmarking sites like del.icio.us are great at 
> helping you organize your bookmarks, blogs can help you in a slightly 
> different way. While blog posts are generally organized 
> chronologically, and you can organize them by category, at the heart 
> of blogging systems is a search engine. So, one way to use a blog is 
> as a storage place for items or articles you find online, to which 
> you can add your comments.

Now *that* I didn't know -- and that's a big plus right now.  I use 3
different computers with 3 different sets of bookmarks.  *sigh* 
Granted, the set on the laptop is probably the best organized, it's my
primary machine, but still ....

Does anybody know of any good bookmark management tools?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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>Fran wrote:
>  Not everyone has a strong need for
>> social support/approval.  I agree that's what many blogs seem to be for, 
>> it just holds no interest for me personally.

I have two: one LiveJournal, for miscellaneous ramblings on how I'm doing personally, and another on Blogspot, which is for articles related to my research.

The LiveJournal one I started mostly because several of my friends are on LJ, and it seemed like a good place to put the occasional blather about weather in the Central Valley, the health of my cat, what I saw on my trip to England this year, and other stuff that would mostly be of interest to family and close friends. It's a way of letting that small audience know how I'm doing without having to write each one individually.

The Paternosters blog (http://paternosters.blogspot.com) is something I started to force myself to sit down and WRITE about my research on the history of rosary beads. For about a year and a half I was producing one to two articles a week; it got sidetracked somehow after my England trip this spring and I haven't gotten back to it, but I certainly have not run out of things to talk about. I find that writing gives me more ideas about things to research and write about, and I've learned a lot in the process. I like it also because it's somewhere to post the answers to FAQs and anything else I want to make available, and yet it's simple to maintain just by sitting down and typing something; I don't have to create or configure entire Web pages to hold the information.

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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Subject: [h-cost] Really OT! But too funny....
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....not to pass on. These are the winners in the [in]famous Bulwer-Lytton  
Fiction Contest.... a contest for the worst opening line to a novel ever.
 
Enjoy everyone!
 
_http://www2.sjsu.edu/depts/english/2006.htm_ 
(http://www2.sjsu.edu/depts/english/2006.htm) 
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From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
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>I'd like to recommend the use of blogs for another reason, one that we 
>recommend to our faculty and students quite often: personal organization.

I don't have a blog or LJ as yet, despite 5 years nagging (erm, I mean 
encouraging) from my children, But lately I have considered it so I could 
have a place to put thoughts that I want to follow up on AND THAT I CAN FIND 
THE NEXT TIME I LOOK FOR IT!  I have journalled for many years (or tried to) 
but paper copies get misplaced.  I always know where LJ is.  My kids assure 
me that I can keep it locked and allow "friends only", meaning nobody if I 
wish it. I like options in organizational strategies!

Laurie


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Artist
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/m/p-melendez1.htm

Painter's studio
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/c/p-castill1.htm

Queen
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/m/p-maella1.htm

Perhap you could glean from these
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/goya/index.html
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/goya/goya2.htm

http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/b/p-rbayeu1.htm

http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11.646

http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11.442

http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11.427

De



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Quoting zelda crusher <laswa@hotmail.com>:

>
>
>
>> I'd like to recommend the use of blogs for another reason, one that 
>> we recommend to our faculty and students quite often: personal 
>> organization.
>
> I don't have a blog or LJ as yet, despite 5 years nagging (erm, I 
> mean encouraging) from my children, But lately I have considered it 
> so I could have a place to put thoughts that I want to follow up on 
> AND THAT I CAN FIND THE NEXT TIME I LOOK FOR IT!

*snicker*  You should see the folder of "to-Do lists" that I have!  I
contemplate typing them up and organizing them from time to time .....

> I have journalled for many years (or tried to) but paper copies get 
> misplaced.  I always know where LJ is.  My kids assure me that I can 
> keep it locked and allow "friends only", meaning nobody if I wish it. 
> I like options in organizational strategies!

Yeah -- my son is an LJer too.  Don't know if he'd "friend" me or not
(he's just turned 18) ...

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
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Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> Does anybody know of any good bookmark management tools?

There are a couple of social bookmarking sites. I use http://del.icio.us
(all about it here: http://del.icio.us/help/) The advantages are several:
- your bookmarks are stored online so it doesn't matter what computer 
you are using, you will always have access to them
- the tags (keywords) you use to describe your bookmarks get compiled 
into the entire system so you and people who use the same tags as you 
can find things you have bookmarked--spreading the work and the wealth, 
as it were (i's called building "folksonomies", i.e taxonomies or naming 
conventions determined by the people who use them instead of by an 
authority)
- if you use the Firefox web browser (http://www.mozilla.com/firefox/) 
there is an add-on that works with del.icio.us that let's you add a 
button to your toolbar so you can add bookmarks with the click of a mouse
- you can build a network of people with whom you want to share 
bookmarks, and they can share their bookmarks with you
- and then there are the cool things related to RSS that let you pour 
your bookmarks into your blog and such--but let's not get carried away...

We now return you to your regularly scheduled sewing...

- Hope
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: LJ/ blogspot/Yahoo360 etc.
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Quoting Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>:

>
>
> Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>> Does anybody know of any good bookmark management tools?
>
> There are a couple of social bookmarking sites. I use http://del.icio.us
> (all about it here: http://del.icio.us/help/) The advantages are several:

thanks!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 523
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Have you checked out any art books about Goya? Or try Googling "Goya" in
Images. Or Spanish art galleries.

Wasn't he active late 18th century and early 19th c.?

Sheridan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "HAGIOS FENUM" <hagiosfenum@prtc.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 12:31 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 523


> Still looking for some XVIII century Spanish Non Court, nor nobility
> clothing like artisans, servants,etc.
> JP
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of h-costume-request@indra.com
> Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 11:54 AM
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> Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 523
>
> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
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>
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I am just starting to use this system as well, and it is taking awhile for me to input every bookmark I have, and add in the tags, notes, etc. It will take me a bit of work over some time, but it looks like it is worth doing.
   
  But I wanted to comment that the Firefox add on has also been put into the Explorer system as well, as that is what I use.
   
  Kimiko
  

Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> wrote:
  - if you use the Firefox web browser (http://www.mozilla.com/firefox/) 
there is an add-on that works with del.icio.us that let's you add a 
button to your toolbar so you can add bookmarks with the click of a mouse

 		
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low  PC-to-Phone call rates.
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Yes he was. I posted a url to his paintings.
De

-----Original Message-----
Have you checked out any art books about Goya? Or try Googling "Goya" in
Images. Or Spanish art galleries.

Wasn't he active late 18th century and early 19th c.?

Sheridan



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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: Historical Costume List <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT-Architecture
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Does anyone have a close up of the Santa Maria delle Vergini arch found in "Virgins of Venice", now attached to the Arsenal? I've tried googling all of the above and can't find a large enough copy. I would like to take a close look at the inscription plaque.

Thanks!

Kathy
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
 
Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Really OT! But too funny....
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> I won the Children's Literature category in 2004, which was the first 
> time I entered ...

So what was your winning opening line?  My mind, it inquires.

-E House
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No but from a person that seems to have seen it, it says "Hope and love keep
us in this pleasant prison"

-----Original Message-----
Does anyone have a close up of the Santa Maria delle Vergini arch found in
"Virgins of Venice", now attached to the Arsenal? I've tried googling all of
the above and can't find a large enough copy. I would like to take a close
look at the inscription plaque.

Thanks!

Kathy


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Really OT! But too funny....
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It's on some websites, including:

http://face.centosprime.com/wordpress/2004/08/25/2004-bulwer-lytton-contest-winners/

http://www2.sjsu.edu/depts/english/2004.htm

Fran


E House wrote:
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> 
>> I won the Children's Literature category in 2004, which was the first 
>> time I entered ...
> 
> 
> So what was your winning opening line?  My mind, it inquires.
> 
> -E House
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.3.1.2.20060712124520.027232f0@mail.frys.com>	<44B55F7B.2010804@lavoltapress.com><053e01c6a6aa$075c2bd0$c200a8c0@compaqub>
	<44B69FB3.7080702@lavoltapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Really OT! But too funny....
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 15:27:12 -0500
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> It's on some websites, including:
> http://face.centosprime.com/wordpress/2004/08/25/2004-bulwer-lytton-contest-winners/
> http://www2.sjsu.edu/depts/english/2004.htm


I like it! (For those who click on the link, it's about 1/3 of the way down 
the page on the 1st link.)

-E House

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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 16:40:55 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Really OT! But too funny....
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 7/13/2006 2:29:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
formfunc@formfunction.org writes:

So what  was your winning opening line?  My mind, it  inquires.



I wanted to know, too.
 
Ann Wass
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Really OT! But too funny....
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Wonderful!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 12:32 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Really OT! But too funny....


It's on some websites, including:

http://face.centosprime.com/wordpress/2004/08/25/2004-bulwer-lytton-contest-
winners/

http://www2.sjsu.edu/depts/english/2004.htm

Fran


E House wrote:
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lavolta Press" 
> <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> 
>> I won the Children's Literature category in 2004, which was the first
>> time I entered ...
> 
> 
> So what was your winning opening line?  My mind, it inquires.
> 
> -E House
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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I don't like it as much as this year's old woman who lived in a shoe, 
actually.

Fran

Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:

> Wonderful!
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Lavolta Press
> Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 12:32 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Really OT! But too funny....
> 
> 
> It's on some websites, including:
> 
> http://face.centosprime.com/wordpress/2004/08/25/2004-bulwer-lytton-contest-
> winners/
> 
> http://www2.sjsu.edu/depts/english/2004.htm
> 
> Fran
> 
> 
> E House wrote:
> 
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Lavolta Press" 
>><fran@lavoltapress.com>
>>
>>>I won the Children's Literature category in 2004, which was the first
>>>time I entered ...
>>
>>
>>So what was your winning opening line?  My mind, it inquires.
>>
>>-E House
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com 
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
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From: "Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez" <ladycatalina@hotmail.com>
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Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 01:26:10 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 526
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Status: RO



Goya es el único pintor que sé quién pintó temas comunes. La Infanta 
Catalina es único que la retratan con un criado.
Usted debe también mirar el trabajo de Jose de Alcibar. Él vivió en México, 
pero mucho de su trabajo estaba para los patrónes españoles. Los retratos 
fueron desalentados a veces por la inquisición durante el siglo XVIII.

-The Inquisition occasionally took the position that portraits were 
vainglorious and a sin, so a lot of painters limited themselves to religious 
subjects. For clothing of commoners and servants, almost the only source 
would be background figures in religious paintings.
Jose de Alcibar was a talented Mexican painter who received a lot of 
commisions from Wealthy Spaniards. At least one portrait of his did find 
it's way into a public museum.-

Catalina
nunca sin mi vino





>
>Muchas gracias. Tambien busco modoas o vestuarios del pueblo comun, como
>obreros, esclavos, sirvientes,marinos, albañiles,etc del siglo xviii.
>JP
>


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The longer I was involved in costuming toe more interested I became in the 
people I had seen in portraits.
Who were their parents?
Why did they choose to be portrayed in a certain type of clothing?
How were they related or not related to their contemporaries?

Some of these questions can never be answered. But in looking for the 
answers I met whole new groups of people who became my friends. Some times 
people who are friends will grow in different directions. But eventually 
there will be new friends to fit in with, who may not have shared any common 
interests a few years ago.

In my case, it usually ended up circling back to a new area of costuming 
research. I think no one could have forseen the chain of researches that led 
from 16th century Spain to Bronze Age Celt. But every so often everyone 
needs a rest.


Catalina
nunca sin mi vino


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Subject: [h-cost] Half OT:  Project Runway
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So...what did y'all think of this years crop and their 1st project?
 
BTW...I love this show. I'm not really interested in fashion except in an  
historic/character kinda way, but I always love to see creative  people come up 
with amazing things. This is why you all should watch this show  on Bravo. 
Even the 1st designers to be eliminated are worth seeing. And of  course as it 
gets down to the nitty gritty, things heat up. 
 
And I surely do not always agree with the judges. I especially get annoyed  
when they accuse someone of creating a costume....but let gowns slip by, and  
even win, that one could wear to a 1935 or 1942 party and not raise an eyebrow. 
 We'll see how this years mom of 5 does, since all I see are 1920s clothes 
from  her.
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Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 21:50:19 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Costuming/ Re-enacting
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Status: RO

That is how I got interested in Eleonora of Toledo. I saw her tiny B&W
portrait in Davenport and later a muchlarger color pic. I was hooked. Now
I'm writing a book (novel) on her and Cosimo, her husband. The research has
been an amazing experience.
Catriona

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 7:43 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Costuming/ Re-enacting



The longer I was involved in costuming toe more interested I became in the
people I had seen in portraits.
Who were their parents?
Why did they choose to be portrayed in a certain type of clothing?
How were they related or not related to their contemporaries?

Some of these questions can never be answered. But in looking for the
answers I met whole new groups of people who became my friends. Some times
people who are friends will grow in different directions. But eventually
there will be new friends to fit in with, who may not have shared any common
interests a few years ago.

In my case, it usually ended up circling back to a new area of costuming
research. I think no one could have forseen the chain of researches that led
from 16th century Spain to Bronze Age Celt. But every so often everyone
needs a rest.


Catalina
nunca sin mi vino


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Is there an egroup or yahoo group that caters to late 1500's Polish Garb?
Maybe I am looking under the incorrect name.
Anyone know?
Thanks in advance,
Lyonet
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Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 14:37:52 -0400
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 1500's Polish garb
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Quoting Lyonet <llyonet@cox.net>:

> Is there an egroup or yahoo group that caters to late 1500's Polish Garb?
> Maybe I am looking under the incorrect name.

I don't know if it will be what you want or not, but I think that
there's a "slavic interest group"  Kass McGann has men's patterns for
that period, but I don't think that there are any womens.

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Maybe one of these groups can help.
http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=Renaissance+poland

-----Original Message-----
Is there an egroup or yahoo group that caters to late 1500's Polish Garb?
Maybe I am looking under the incorrect name.
Anyone know?
Thanks in advance,
Lyonet


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Subject: [h-cost] Update on Bjarne
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Status: RO

	As there seem to be quite a few on this list who expressed concern,
I thought you would like to know I've been in communication with Bjarne. He
asked me to send along his assurances he is well and not to worry. I told
him about all your lovely emails, and he is genuinely touched and wished me
to convey that.

	I would ask that you respect his privacy. When he feels able he will
likely be back. Not to worry.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Status: RO

Thanks for the update.

i was concerned.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Jul 14, 2006, at 3:24 PM, Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:

>     As there seem to be quite a few on this list who expressed concern,
> I thought you would like to know I've been in communication with 
> Bjarne. He
> asked me to send along his assurances he is well and not to worry. I 
> told
> him about all your lovely emails, and he is genuinely touched and 
> wished me
> to convey that.
>
>     I would ask that you respect his privacy. When he feels able he 
> will
> likely be back. Not to worry.
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted 
> cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: OT-Architecture (otsisto)
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I have the book which contains that translation. That's the problem, I want to see it in Italian, preferably the actual plaque. I have a bent sense of humour, and want to work it into a design element of a trompe l'oeil project I am working on.
 
Kathy

   2. RE: OT-Architecture (otsisto)
   

No but from a person that seems to have seen it, it says "Hope and love keep
us in this pleasant prison"

-----Original Message-----
Does anyone have a close up of the Santa Maria delle Vergini arch found in
"Virgins of Venice", now attached to the Arsenal? I've tried googling all of
the above and can't find a large enough copy. I would like to take a close
look at the inscription plaque.




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Update on Bjarne
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 18:14:55 -0400
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Oh, I'm *so* glad that he's ok!

My worry button was pushed in a major way...but then again, my family tells 
me that worrying is my job. :-)

With regards,
kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2006 3:24 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Update on Bjarne


> As there seem to be quite a few on this list who expressed concern,
> I thought you would like to know I've been in communication with Bjarne. 
> He
> asked me to send along his assurances he is well and not to worry. I told
> him about all your lovely emails, and he is genuinely touched and wished 
> me
> to convey that.
>
> I would ask that you respect his privacy. When he feels able he will
> likely be back. Not to worry.
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:
> 	As there seem to be quite a few on this list who expressed concern,
> I thought you would like to know I've been in communication with Bjarne. He
> asked me to send along his assurances he is well and not to worry. I told
> him about all your lovely emails, and he is genuinely touched and wished me
> to convey that.
>
> 	I would ask that you respect his privacy. When he feels able he will
> likely be back. Not to worry.
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
> Thank you.  I was getting very worried about him, myself.  Glad to hear he is ok.
>   
-Megan
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>   

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Thank you for the update. It's good to know he's okay.
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Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 17:47:42 -0500
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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Oseberg Textiles
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Status: RO

My copy of the Oseberg Textiles book arrived today. I have just finished my 
first pass through, looking at the illustrations and reading the English 
summary in the back. I am extremely happy with it. It contains much that I 
have not seen before (even though I also have the Sofie Kraft book of her 
watercolors). There is only a small amount on costume in it... most 
textiles being identified as decorative and furnishings. In addition to the 
tapestry woven textiles are extensive sections on the tablet woven bands, 
embroidery (identified as Anglo-Saxon) and silks.The book itself is large 
folio in a binding matching that of the other volumes of the Oseberfundet 
published many years ago. For a book of this size and value (and a limited 
print run of only 1200 copies), I consider it a worthwhile purchase. I 
expect that it will be awhile before it is available via inter-library loan.

The book may be ordered directly from the Kulturhistorisk Museum in Oslo, 
price: NOK 1100 (including shipping) but must be paid in Norwegian Kroners. 
In USA: Contact Fred Struthers fsbks AT mcn.org if interested, as he is 
considering carrying it.

Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find  - The textiles) by Arne 
Emil Christensen and Margareta Nockert, Kulturhistorisk Museum (May 6th 
2006), Universitetet i Oslo. 24 x 36 cm. 408pp. ISBN 82-8984-024-9.

Regards,
Beth Matney  

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Oseberg Textiles
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 19:30:45 -0400
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On Saturday 15 July 2006 6:47 pm, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> My copy of the Oseberg Textiles book arrived today. I have just finished my
> first pass through, looking at the illustrations and reading the English
> summary in the back. I am extremely happy with it. It contains much that I
> have not seen before (even though I also have the Sofie Kraft book of her
> watercolors). There is only a small amount on costume in it... most
> textiles being identified as decorative and furnishings. In addition to the
> tapestry woven textiles are extensive sections on the tablet woven bands,
> embroidery (identified as Anglo-Saxon) and silks.The book itself is large
> folio in a binding matching that of the other volumes of the Oseberfundet
> published many years ago. For a book of this size and value (and a limited
> print run of only 1200 copies), I consider it a worthwhile purchase. I
> expect that it will be awhile before it is available via inter-library
> loan.

Thanks.  I may just do that.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jul 15 20:41:25 2006
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From: Debloughcostumes@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 20:40:23 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Update on Bjarne 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

I was also distinctly concerned.

Thanks for letting us all know he's ok.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jul 15 23:04:10 2006
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Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 18:10:56 -0700
From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Update on Bjarne
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Status: RO

Hey, all the guy said was that he was getting bored with his costuming 
era. All the stuff about depression was basically made up by members of 
this group. I noticed it became increasingly dire with every message. 
starting with sensible suggestions like "take a break for awhile," and 
afterwards going on and on about depression.

Then the guy apparently got tired of everyone talking about it, quit 
posting, and now people are bugging him privately.

Could we like, get back to costuming and out of other people's personal 
business?  Every time everyone wants to impose feelings on other people 
and then talk about those publicly, it makes me feel like I'm in the 
middle of a sewer.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:
> I was also distinctly concerned.
> 
> Thanks for letting us all know he's ok.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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> 
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or you could use this handy-dandy link - direct from the bottom of a message from the Slavic Interest Group:

<*> To visit our group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sig/

Katheryne


----- Original Message -----
From: otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>
> Maybe one of these groups can help.
> http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=Renaissance+poland
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Is there an egroup or yahoo group that caters to late 1500's 
> Polish Garb?
> Maybe I am looking under the incorrect name.
> Anyone know?
> Lyonet
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 00:20:48 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] final word RE: Update on Bjarne
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Fran,
1. By the comments being made this thread was wrapping up.

2. There are several who know Bjarne and maybe felt that depression was a
possibility.

3. "Every time everyone wants to impose feelings on other people"/ /"Then
the guy apparently got tired of everyone talking about it,..."

4. If you have a topic you want to discuss, throw it out there.

5. So far, only one person has been in contact with him, no one is "bugging
him privately"

6. I'm sorry that you feel that other's concern for another is like a wading
through a sewer.

I do not know Bjarne but admire his work. I stayed out of the thread because
if it was depression I do not know how to give support but others seemed to
know.
I would rather see support and care given just because of a possibility then
no support and something terrible happens.
Now I will try to grant your request for a change of topic back to
costuming.

De




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Subject: [h-cost] Chemise/shift/shirt
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I just got my RH Saxon gown pattern and the "Kampfrau" pattern and realized
that there wasn't a pattern for the under garment.
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/cranach.html
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/kampfrau.html
 So does anyone recommend a online hemd/chemise pattern that works best with
these styles?

De


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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chemise/shift/shirt
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> I just got my RH Saxon gown pattern and the "Kampfrau" pattern and
realized
> that there wasn't a pattern for the under garment.
> http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/cranach.html
> http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/kampfrau.html
>  So does anyone recommend a online hemd/chemise pattern that works best
with
> these styles?

I've had good luck with both a Hemd based on the Mary of Hungary chemise and
a basic rectangular constuction (rectangles front and back, side gores,
rectangle sleeves and square gussets.)

I mostly just made best use of any fabric on hand;) But I have patterned all
mine up if there is any interest?

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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The one I favor can be seen here:
http://www.pleatwork.com/papers/shirthandout.doc (fig 5b)
or here:
http://www.pleatwork.com/papers/Pleatworkshirthandout.pdf (fig 5a)
As a matter of fact, I'm working on one now! 

-E

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] final word RE: Update on Bjarne
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otsisto wrote:
> Fran,
> 1. By the comments being made this thread was wrapping up.

It's about time. Next time someone wants to do psychotherapy on 
h-costume, could they do it by private email?

> 
> 2. There are several who know Bjarne and maybe felt that depression was a
> possibility.

He never said he was depressed, that was all other people's assumptions 
and assertions.  And if he did, again, this is a costuming list. It's 
not group therapy. I'm sure most members over the years have gone 
through personal difficulties at one time or another, but they have 
thankfully not brought them all to this list.  There is a time and a 
place for everything.

> 
> 3. "Every time everyone wants to impose feelings on other people"/ /"Then
> the guy apparently got tired of everyone talking about it,..."

Excuse me.  But I did say "apparently," which many other people have not 
bothered to do.

> 6. I'm sorry that you feel that other's concern for another is like a wading
> through a sewer.

I'm not particularly interested in emotions, personal chat, gossip, 
trivia, etc.  And frankly this discussion sounds like a lot of 
exaggerated gossip, busybodyness, and dramatization.  I'm sorry if this 
sounds heartless, unfeeling, or unfeminine to you, but what I want in 
life is intellectual stimulation and challenge, to learn things, and to 
discuss topics of interest to me.  Costuming being one of them.

If you think that makes me not "nice," too bad.  My viewpoint is just as 
valid as yours.

> 
> I do not know Bjarne but admire his work. 

I really don't see that Bjarne is any more special than everyone else in 
this group.


I stayed out of the thread because
> if it was depression I do not know how to give support but others seemed to
> know.
> I would rather see support and care given just because of a possibility then
> no support and something terrible happens.

Give me a break.  We've moved from someone saying they're bored with 
their current projects, through everyone else claiming it's depression, 
and now implying it's a suicide threat. None of which comments about 
depression or other serious problems come from the person most 
concerne--and which, when made without any basis, are irresponsible.

> Now I will try to grant your request for a change of topic back to
> costuming.
> 
> De
> 
> 
THANK YOU.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www

_______________________________________________
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] final word RE: Update on Bjarne
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Sorry, I picked up on this by accident.  I was out of town when this started and couldn't read all that mail when I got home.  Don't you people know about the DELETE button on your computer?  If there is a subject you aren't interested in - delete it.

I am not going to comment on the rest of this because it is beginning to be pretty nasty and if I comment then it will bring retaliation and I will get mad and go off the list.  I normally love this list and would hate to lose it as a valuable resource.  

Everyone have a great day!!!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- fran@lavoltapress.com wrote:

From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc:
Subject: Re: [h-cost] final word RE: Update on Bjarne
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 23:54:57 -0700

otsisto wrote:
> Fran,
> 1. By the comments being made this thread was wrapping up.

It's about time. Next time someone wants to do psychotherapy on 
h-costume, could they do it by private email?

> 
> 2. There are several who know Bjarne and maybe felt that depression was a
> possibility.

He never said he was depressed, that was all other people's assumptions 
and assertions.  And if he did, again, this is a costuming list. It's 
not group therapy. I'm sure most members over the years have gone 
through personal difficulties at one time or another, but they have 
thankfully not brought them all to this list.  There is a time and a 
place for everything.

> 
> 3. "Every time everyone wants to impose feelings on other people"/ /"Then
> the guy apparently got tired of everyone talking about it,..."

Excuse me.  But I did say "apparently," which many other people have not 
bothered to do.

> 6. I'm sorry that you feel that other's concern for another is like a wading
> through a sewer.

I'm not particularly interested in emotions, personal chat, gossip, 
trivia, etc.  And frankly this discussion sounds like a lot of 
exaggerated gossip, busybodyness, and dramatization.  I'm sorry if this 
sounds heartless, unfeeling, or unfeminine to you, but what I want in 
life is intellectual stimulation and challenge, to learn things, and to 
discuss topics of interest to me.  Costuming being one of them.

If you think that makes me not "nice," too bad.  My viewpoint is just as 
valid as yours.

> 
> I do not know Bjarne but admire his work. 

I really don't see that Bjarne is any more special than everyone else in 
this group.


I stayed out of the thread because
> if it was depression I do not know how to give support but others seemed to
> know.
> I would rather see support and care given just because of a possibility then
> no support and something terrible happens.

Give me a break.  We've moved from someone saying they're bored with 
their current projects, through everyone else claiming it's depression, 
and now implying it's a suicide threat. None of which comments about 
depression or other serious problems come from the person most 
concerne--and which, when made without any basis, are irresponsible.

> Now I will try to grant your request for a change of topic back to
> costuming.
> 
> De
> 
> 
THANK YOU.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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_____________________________________________________________
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-----Original Message-----
De: I would rather see support and care given just because of a possibility
then
> no support and something terrible happens.

Fran: Give me a break.  We've moved from someone saying they're bored with
their current projects, through everyone else claiming it's depression,
and now implying it's a suicide threat.

De: That is not what I said. I did not imply that there was a suicide
threat. I was saying that it is better to do something on the slim chance
that it might be depression, then to do nothing and find that it really was
and something, anything negative happens. Applying it to any situation.
Now lets move back to costuming.


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Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 14:59:37 -0400
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From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] The delete button...
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>Don't you people know about the DELETE button on your computer?  If 
>there is a subject you aren't interested in - delete it.

      I agree - this list covers diverse time periods, and there will 
be topics not of interest to everyone.

      I would like to ask (and I hope it's ok with the management to 
do so!) that people consider whether their note is personal/private 
or not.  We do have the ability to respond privately to a note, 
whether it's to offer a compliment or a concern.  Brainstorming 
through a creative block is useful for many.

      Signal-to-noise ratio is a big reason for people to leave groups 
and start their own.  I think it's great that people discuss 5th 
century Fredonian necklines even if I don't read those notes.  Too 
many personal notes, and I agree with Lalah:

>I normally love this list and would hate to lose it as a valuable resource.

      I don't want to lose any of the knowledgeable people we have 
(whether they consider themselves experts or not), many of whom can 
make those 5th century Fredonian necklines interesting!

      -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The delete button...
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> 
>      I would like to ask (and I hope it's ok with the management to do 
> so!) that people consider whether their note is personal/private or 
> not.  We do have the ability to respond privately to a note, whether 
> it's to offer a compliment or a concern.  Brainstorming through a 
> creative block is useful for many.

Exactly.  I think repeated compliments are as tedious for general 
perusal as complaints.  If someone puts up a picture of their latest 
creation and offers information on how they researched it, or how they 
made it, or how they wished they had made it in hindsight, or where they 
bought the materials, that's substantive. Endless I-like-your-outfit-too 
emails are not. And although I do delete the vast majority of my emails 
by subject line, it's harder to do that when the subject line is 
"Elizabethan dress," or some other topic that interests me, but it turns 
out not to be a discussion of Elizabethan dress but a series of me-too 
compliments on someone's creation. The subject line does not always 
describe the content.

I am on an extremely active list for translators from foreign languages, 
which has a very useful system. They require every subject line to be 
prefixed with one of a series of standard headers designated by the 
group's official guidelines (and emailed out with the usual official 
reminders), so that people can filter messages in or out of their 
inboxes at will. Of relevance to h-costume, they have a CHAT: prefix, a 
HUMOR: (or HUMOUR:) prefix, and a COMP: (computer problems) prefix.  All 
the prefixes are followed by colons, which makes it easier to have a 
filter that does not confuse unwanted messages with wanted ones.

For h-costume, I'd certainly recommend a CHAT: prefix.  The translators' 
group also has standard subject headers related to language pairs, 
abbreviations of things like German>English and French>Italian. 
(Members very often ask each other for help with specific words, 
phrases, and sentences.) I don't think it would be such a bad thing for 
h-costume to have subject headers for things like Elizabethan (ELIZ:), 
but they would have to be carefully thought out.  However, I don't think 
they are essential, because it is more likely that many people are 
interested in multiple costuming periods, or in multiple techniques 
(sewing, emboidery, crochet), than that many people translate to and 
from numerous languages.

I already have a CHAT: filter-out set up with my ISP for the 
translators' group, which means I don't even have to download about 50 
messages a day.  If the h-costume moderator would set up and enforce a 
prefixing standard for h-costume, even just a CHAT: prefix, that would 
certainly be convenient. An OFF-TOPIC: prefix and a COMPLIMENTS: prefix 
would also be great--unless those are included in CHAT:.

> 
>      Signal-to-noise ratio is a big reason for people to leave groups 
> and start their own.  I think it's great that people discuss 5th century 
> Fredonian necklines even if I don't read those notes.  Too many personal 
> notes, and I agree with Lalah:

If I read a ten-page discussion on Fredonian necklines, even if I had no 
previous interest in the subject, that's the kind of thing to get me 
interested in it.

> 
>> I normally love this list and would hate to lose it as a valuable 
>> resource.

So would I.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Prefixes for headers?  (was: Re: [h-cost] The delete button...)
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 20:05:25 -0400
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On Sunday 16 July 2006 6:27 pm, Lavolta Press wrote:
[snip]

> I am on an extremely active list for translators from foreign languages,
> which has a very useful system. They require every subject line to be
> prefixed with one of a series of standard headers designated by the
> group's official guidelines (and emailed out with the usual official
> reminders), so that people can filter messages in or out of their
> inboxes at will. Of relevance to h-costume, they have a CHAT: prefix, a
> HUMOR: (or HUMOUR:) prefix, and a COMP: (computer problems) prefix.  All
> the prefixes are followed by colons, which makes it easier to have a
> filter that does not confuse unwanted messages with wanted ones.

I think this is an excellent idea and second Fran's recommendation that we 
implement it on h-costume.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Prefixes for headers? 
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Another prefix they use that might be useful on h-costume is JOBS: 
(under which, for h-costume, I'd suggesting including volunteer as well 
as paid opportunities).  I would also suggest EVENTS: (annoucements for 
events and classes) and SUPP:  (for supplies; tip-offs for JoAnn's 
sales, eBay listings, and so on; also requests for where to find 
specific items).

I think breaking out eras and techniques might get very complicated 
though. And many people who are only interested in one era or technique 
are on a specialized list rather than a general one like h-costume.

Fran


> I think this is an excellent idea and second Fran's recommendation that we 
> implement it on h-costume.
> 
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Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 21:21:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Prefixes for headers?  (was: Re: [h-cost] The delete button...)
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On Sun, 16 Jul 2006, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> I think this is an excellent idea and second Fran's recommendation
> that we implement it on h-costume.

I have seen this work extraordinarily well on exactly one list -- a list
for copyeditors, who are, by definition, able to deal with detailed rules
on handling language. However, the system is also backed up by a strong
administrative infrastructure on the list, including an extensive set of
well-maintained FAQs and two extremely active list managers who will send
warnings to people who do not follow the rules, or put them on moderated
status.

>From the description, it sounds as though the translators' list modeled
its tags after the ones established on the copyeditors' list (or maybe the
other way around, but I suspect the copyeditors' list is older) -- I know
there is some cross-membership. Translators are another group similar to
copyeditors, where people tend to be exacting in their use of language,
and the purpose of the group is targeted and professional.

I'm afraid I don't see such a system as easy to implement on h-cost, where
we have a membership that's extremely diverse, representing people from
many countries and of varying levels of ease at handling language and
niggly bits of formatting. In fact, I have seen such a tagging system
attempted for another group, with much the same level of variation as on
h-cost, and despite eager support for the tagging system by some members,
the burden of following the rules was difficult enough for many others
that they simply stopped posting, or came away feeling that they would
only post if they absolutely needed to because they were so afraid of
getting it wrong and being scolded for it. The group suffered badly and
has never recovered its once high posting levels.

I consider it an asset of h-cost that it is easy for people to join and to
engage in discussion, even if they are new to costuming, new to historic
costuming, or new to e-mail lists, and where even newcomers who don't know
the lists's traditions are treated, for the most part, with consideration
and seriousness, and educated by participation. I have heard people say
that the activity and the wealth of expertise on h-cost intimidated them
as newcomers, making it hard for them to get up enough courage to post. I
would not be inclined to add an extra burden -- real or perceived -- to
newcomers or existing members who are not adept communicators.

--Robin

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: Re: Prefixes for headers?  (was: Re: [h-cost] The delete button...)
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> I'm afraid I don't see such a system as easy to implement on h-cost, where
> we have a membership that's extremely diverse, representing people from
> many countries and of varying levels of ease at handling language and
> niggly bits of formatting.

In fact many more h-costume members are native English speakers than on 
the translators' list, where the tags are all in English but a high 
proportion of the emails is not. I'm not sure some members read English 
at all.

But as English is the only language h-costume posts are in, almost all 
members are fluent in it. I don't really see that having maybe four 
headings is too much of a mental strain, or that a simple colon is that 
finicky in terms of formatting.

Even one heading, CHAT: versus everything else with no heading, would be 
extremely useful.

  In fact, I have seen such a tagging system
> attempted for another group, with much the same level of variation as on
> h-cost, and despite eager support for the tagging system by some members,
> the burden of following the rules was difficult enough for many others
> that they simply stopped posting, or came away feeling that they would
> only post if they absolutely needed to because they were so afraid of
> getting it wrong and being scolded for it. The group suffered badly and
> has never recovered its once high posting levels.


So what about a system of CHAT:  for chat, compliments, me-toos, 
computer problems, off-topic, and in short everything not a substantive 
message on costuming, versus no header at all for everything else?

A high level of postings is no boon if a large number of them are 
irrelevant.

> 
> I consider it an asset of h-cost that it is easy for people to join and to
> engage in discussion, even if they are new to costuming, new to historic
> costuming, or new to e-mail lists, and where even newcomers who don't know
> the lists's traditions are treated, for the most part, with consideration
> and seriousness, and educated by participation. 

I don't see that a tag system--again, even one tag for chat--would ruin 
that.  Surely people can figure out off-topic discussions are chat?

I have heard people say
> that the activity and the wealth of expertise on h-cost intimidated them
> as newcomers, making it hard for them to get up enough courage to post. I
> would not be inclined to add an extra burden -- real or perceived -- to
> newcomers or existing members who are not adept communicators.

I kind of thought we were all literate, mostly native English speakers, 
and mostly college educated.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Prefixes for headers?  (was: Re: [h-cost] The delete button...)
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On Sun, 16 Jul 2006, Lavolta Press wrote:

> So what about a system of CHAT:  for chat, compliments, me-toos,
> computer problems, off-topic, and in short everything not a
> substantive message on costuming, versus no header at all for
> everything else?

That strikes me as being more likely to succeed, and to be useful, than
asking that every post be tagged in some way, which is what I thought you
were suggesting originally. I don't think a total tagging system would be
manageable with our current administrative setup and turnover rate, but a
"CHAT:" tagging convention to separate costuming from non-substantive 
or non-costuming isn't too much to ask.

And it would indeed be helpful.

--Robin


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On Mon, 17 Jul 2006, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Sun, 16 Jul 2006, Lavolta Press wrote:
>
> > So what about a system of CHAT:  for chat, compliments, me-toos,
> > computer problems, off-topic, and in short everything not a
> > substantive message on costuming, versus no header at all for
> > everything else?
>
> That strikes me as being more likely to succeed, and to be useful, than
> asking that every post be tagged in some way, which is what I thought you
> were suggesting originally. I don't think a total tagging system would be
> manageable with our current administrative setup and turnover rate, but a
> "CHAT:" tagging convention to separate costuming from non-substantive
> or non-costuming isn't too much to ask.

As a mostly lurker, avid reader and sometimes poster, I would like to
second this. An easy way to filter out non-costuming posts would indeed
be useful. :)

Another way to go (or maybe used to supplement a simple tagging system)
might be to set up a short and clear set of guidelines for the group
that dictate a bit more how to post. Maybe this is just my usenet
background talking, but I find that online communication is so much
easier if everyone follows some simple rules. The most important that
come to mind are:

- Please trim your posts. Do not quote an entire post or digest when you
reply, but only those parts you are replying to. (This, I find, is not
so much a problem when I have the list set to deliver individual
messages, but in those periods where I need it set to digest I often
find that reading the list gets very frustrating and time-consuming.)

- When veering off the original subject in a reply, please also change
the subject line! (In order for the "but you can just delete the posts
you aren't interested in" argument to be valid, it needs to be possible
to identify such posts _before_ you read them.)

- Don't post one-liners or comments that don't contribute to the
discussion at hand. (By this I mean that "ooh, your work is lovely" has
the same positive effect if sent privately as on the list. I think such
feedback is inspiring and important both to give and receive, but maybe
not so useful on-list.)

On the one hand I do like that the list is so chatty and a real
community, OTOH I would like an opportunity to more easily identify
interesting posts. The important thing is, as others have said, to make
any rules so short and clear that they don't discourage people from
posting at all.

Ingrid

-- 
This email has been scanned for viruses & spam by Decna as - www.decna.no
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Subject: [h-cost] Spanish hat styles 1550 men and women
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Does anyone know where to find a good hat pattern for this period? It looks 
like a Tudor flat cap but somehow a little different.



Catalina
nunca sin mi vino


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From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 08:23:16 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] subject lines
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I think the "prefixes" are intended for the subject line, right?

I belong to a list that recommends headers. It's a diverse group with 
members from many countries, but all posts are in English.  Honestly, the 
prefixes don't do *one bit* of good! Some people use them, some don't. The 
list admin reminds people periodically AND it's included at the end of every 
single message posted to the list.

If you can train list members to use prefixes, you ought to be able to train 
them to change the darn subject line!

If every member made sure to change the subject line to reflect the 
contents, prefixes wouldn't be needed!  That and sending one-liners 
privately instead of to the list.  One thing the list admin might consider 
is changing the replies to return to sender, rather than return to the list. 
That cuts down *a lot* on the reply chatter, but doesn't eliminate any 
original posting.

Denise
Iowa 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] subject lines
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>I think the "prefixes" are intended for the subject line, right?
> 
> I belong to a list that recommends **headers. 

<sorry!> I meant "prefixes in the subject line" not **headers.


speaking of communicating clearly...

Denise
Iowa
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Subject: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
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Ack - I just put in an invisible zip in a very non-historic dress but the tab at the top is a) the wrong colour and b) hanging out.... I tend to use eyelets, laces, pins etc to close clothing for clients but this is a new problem and not one I can work around...
 
Any suggestions? (polite ones thank you).  No sign of zips this colour in the locale so I could always take it out and put in a regular one but this is so cool and makes it look like just another seam... until you get to the tab at the top!
 
 
Katherine the stumped
 
p.s. the zip is cream, the dress is pale green poly-wool crepe and the style is tea-length princess seamed a-line, with slightly flared mid-bicep sleeves and a sweetheart neckline. The customer is /always/ right...
 
"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
 
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
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Can you paint the tab?  Nail polish maybe?

Katy

On 7/17/06, katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> Ack - I just put in an invisible zip in a very non-historic dress but the tab at the top is a) the wrong colour and b) hanging out.... I tend to use eyelets, laces, pins etc to close clothing for clients but this is a new problem and not one I can work around...
>
> Any suggestions? (polite ones thank you).  No sign of zips this colour in the locale so I could always take it out and put in a regular one but this is so cool and makes it look like just another seam... until you get to the tab at the top!
>
>
> Katherine the stumped
>
> p.s. the zip is cream, the dress is pale green poly-wool crepe and the style is tea-length princess seamed a-line, with slightly flared mid-bicep sleeves and a sweetheart neckline. The customer is /always/ right...
>
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Prefixes for headers?  (was: Re: [h-cost] The delete
	button...)
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>
> On Sun, 16 Jul 2006, Lavolta Press wrote:
>
>> So what about a system of CHAT:  for chat, compliments, me-toos,
>> computer problems, off-topic, and in short everything not a
>> substantive message on costuming, versus no header at all for
>> everything else?

I don't like the idea of having "topic tags."  My email client only
shows a limited number of characters for a message subject (that's not
changeable/customizable no matter how big I make the window).  If we
start hanging tags at the start of the subject line I won't be able to
see any subject at all.  That would make this list way to cumbersome
for *me* (and I may be in the minority here -- that's ok).

You're also assuming that folks will remember to change the *tag* just
like they remember to change the *subject*

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: Prefixes for headers?  (was: Re: [h-cost] The delete button...)
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I fully agree with all you said.  I have no desire to set up a tagging 
system so complicated that people either can't remember it or spend 10 
minutes per post agonizing over whether the tag should be VICT: or ACW: 
  or 19C:.  I think it would be a good idea to figure out exactly how 
many  tags people can easily hold in memory--I was thinking 4 at a 
maxiumum--and then figure out what many topics and content people will 
very very commonly want to filter in or out.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


> On the one hand I do like that the list is so chatty and a real
> community, OTOH I would like an opportunity to more easily identify
> interesting posts. The important thing is, as others have said, to make
> any rules so short and clear that they don't discourage people from
> posting at all.
> 
> Ingrid
> 
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Prefixes are to the subject line, as in CHAT:  Is everyone in New 
Orleans OK after the hurricane?

They do a lot of good because you can set up a filter for them in your 
mail browser or in your ISP, if your ISP has that capability.  That is 
how I can avoid downloading 50 chat messages a day (and I'm not 
exaggerating) from the translators' list.  They chat on many subjects, 
but almost all the chat is labeled CHAT:

However, I do agree with all the suggestions to have good subject lines, 
change them when you change the subject.  I also think a list change to 
reply-to-sender would be good.  The latter makes people think every time 
they post about whether this really should be a private message.

I don't get particularly stirred up about whether people snip posts much 
or not (despite still having dialup because 
my-husband-the-computer-programmer, who sets up these things, is ticked 
off at A T & T and he says most broadband goes through A T & T one way 
or another).  On the other hand, snipping is never a bad idea, either.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Land of Oz wrote:

> I think the "prefixes" are intended for the subject line, right?
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Bodiced Petticoats - Regency
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I'm finishing up my transition stays (past patterns for 1796-1806) and I want to make a bodiced petticoat to go between the stays and the dress I am going to make.  I've seen a few images of bodiced petticoats for this period but they aren't close enough to the bodice for me to really understand how these are constructed.  I know that Sense and Sensibilty has instruction on thier website but I don't see any documention for thier method - which would fit much better over a bra then stays.  Can anyone give me some insight into this - have you seen one?  Made one?  Construction details?  Fabrics used?  
   
  Thanks for all your help!
   
  Sarah

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References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10607170049520.7753-100000@shell.nightowl.net>	<Pine.LNX.4.58.0607171155390.21808@kalymnos.domenebutikken.no>
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Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 14:35:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] subject lines
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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     I'm wary of offering a prefix for chat.  I do find that most people
do not consider this a chatty type of list.  Even when discussing
something off-topic, many add the "obligatory costume content" at the
end.  "It's breast cancer awareness month, OCC I found this great
link on the history of bras."

     I've seen some lists or forums that say they are a "community", which
seems to mean they allow discussion of any topic and not just the
theme of the list.  However I think H-costume can be a community and
still keep the discussion on-topic.

> Prefixes are to the subject line, as in CHAT:  Is everyone in New
> Orleans OK after the hurricane?

     I don't mind a request for people to check in after a disaster,
however it can lead to a lot of off-topic chatter.  Someone might
have a request for volunteers to help with a flooded museum
collection and put it under CHAT because it relates to the recent
floods in the eastern US.  But it is on-topic if it's about
preserving a costume collecton.

> However, I do agree with all the suggestions to have good subject lines,
> change them when you change the subject.  I also think a list change to
> reply-to-sender would be good.  The latter makes people think every time
> they post about whether this really should be a private message.

     Or cut down on discussion dramatically because people don't stop to
think about it.  I belong to quite a few lists and I would have to
stop and think for each one when I hit "reply".  Perhaps in the
future all replies would have a "choose the option" of private vs
to-the-list.  Or certain threads could be designated "reply only to
sender", such as was requested with the holiday gift exchange. 
Maybe, one day, the technology will be there...

> I don't get particularly stirred up about whether people snip posts much
> or not

     It doesn't seem to be a huge on this list.  I've really only noticed
it on other places.

     I think the settings currently on H-Costume are ok, and it's just a
matter of reminders for use.  Personally I would be really annoyed if
someone speculated on a medical condition, about me, on a public list
rather than sending a private note.  To me, it's like announcing
something loudly in a group of people about a matter that should be a
private aside.  We have had discussions in the past about carpal
tunnel syndrome and sewing, going into prevention and treatment and
treatment.  But again, it's something of interest to several list
members, sewing is a big element of making costume, etc.

     -Carol

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 17 14:39:09 2006
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Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 14:36:57 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
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In a message dated 7/17/2006 12:09:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk writes:

Any  suggestions? (polite ones thank you).  No sign of zips this colour in 
the  locale so I could always take it out and put in a regular one but this is 
so  cool and makes it look like just another seam... until you get to the tab 
at  the top!



This was actually addressed by the manufacturer when invisible zippers  first 
came out, in the early 1970s, as the zippers came in a limited range of  
colors.  I tried a little cloth bag--wasn't real happy with the results,  though, 
but then I wasn't as skilled in those days. You might have good  success with 
that.  Or, can you see any way to cover it with buttonhole  stitches?  My 
memory is that the pull is long and slender, so that MIGHT  work.
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 14:37:57 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
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In a message dated 7/17/2006 12:23:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
katybishop64@gmail.com writes:

Can you  paint the tab?  Nail polish maybe?



Given the color, you may not find nail polish, but perhaps acrylic craft  
paint?
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 19:55:55 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bodiced Petticoats - Regency
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At 19:05 17/07/2006, you wrote:
>I'm finishing up my transition stays (past patterns for 1796-1806) 
>and I want to make a bodiced petticoat to go between the stays and 
>the dress I am going to make.  I've seen a few images of bodiced 
>petticoats for this period but they aren't close enough to the 
>bodice for me to really understand how these are constructed.  I 
>know that Sense and Sensibilty has instruction on thier website but 
>I don't see any documention for thier method - which would fit much 
>better over a bra then stays.  Can anyone give me some insight into 
>this - have you seen one?  Made one?  Construction details?  Fabrics used?
>
>   Thanks for all your help!
>
>   Sarah


I suggest you look at "Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1800-1909" 
by Jean Hunnisett, where you will find bodiced petticoat patterns. 
Don't be put off by the title - the patterns are as thoroughly 
researched as possible.

I recently saw a bodiced petticoat at the DAR Museum in Washington, 
which had a solid fabric bodice, wrap-over style, and a fancy thin 
fabric skirt. (Ditto on E Bay recently.) Unfortunately, it was with a 
group of things I was not able to document and photograph, as I ran 
out of time. (I was only with the curator for one whole day after all!)

Suzi

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Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 15:05:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
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     Then there is the theory of "If you can't fix it, feature it!"  How
about cutting off the pull and replacing it with a bead or ornament,
or make something with seed beads.

     I wonder if there is some sort of pull replacement you could make
using just the thread, which would be unobtrusive?

     How about a buttonholed or crocheted leader, about 1", that could
then be flipped to the inside of the garment and stay there?  You
would need a weight on the end, again perhaps a bead would work
there.

     -Carol

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From: " Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
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Just a suggestion from a sewer/crafter. Match the fabric color with acrylic paint and paint the tab. The acrylic paint comes in a zillion colors and is cheap. If you carefully clean the tab with vinegar or alcohol and tape around it, painting will not be difficult. It dries fast, but let it really dry well, like overnight, and it will stand up to much use. I have used acrylic paint on all kinds of things with very good results.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk wrote:

From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 16:07:37 +0000 (GMT)

Ack - I just put in an invisible zip in a very non-historic dress but the tab at the top is a) the wrong colour and b) hanging out.... I tend to use eyelets, laces, pins etc to close clothing for clients but this is a new problem and not one I can work around...

Any suggestions? (polite ones thank you). No sign of zips this colour in the locale so I could always take it out and put in a regular one but this is so cool and makes it look like just another seam... until you get to the tab at the top!


Katherine the stumped

p.s. the zip is cream, the dress is pale green poly-wool crepe and the style is tea-length princess seamed a-line, with slightly flared mid-bicep sleeves and a sweetheart neckline. The customer is /always/ right...

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright

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Another idea is take off the tab and use a paper clip though the hole to
zip it up, I use it on costumes when I don't want it to show at all.

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 7/17/2006 9:23:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
>
> Can you paint the tab?  Nail polish maybe?
>
> Katy
>
> On 7/17/06, katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> > Ack - I just put in an invisible zip in a very non-historic dress but
the tab at the top is a) the wrong colour and b) hanging out.... I tend to
use eyelets, laces, pins etc to close clothing for clients but this is a
new problem and not one I can work around...
> >
> > Any suggestions? (polite ones thank you).  No sign of zips this colour
in the locale so I could always take it out and put in a regular one but
this is so cool and makes it look like just another seam... until you get
to the tab at the top!
> >
> >
> > Katherine the stumped
> >
> > p.s. the zip is cream, the dress is pale green poly-wool crepe and the
style is tea-length princess seamed a-line, with slightly flared mid-bicep
sleeves and a sweetheart neckline. The customer is /always/ right...
> >
> > "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
> > annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> -- 
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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Subject: [h-cost] deleting posts and post headers
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I'd love to see some kind of prefix system, but honestly, I'd be delighted 
if we could just change the subject header to reflect the topic.  I 
generally delete the messages I assume will be just chattiness, but on the 
occasions when I do read what I was about to delete, I often find that the 
conversation has ranged back into some real, interesting costuming content. 
And then I have to go on a hunt through my Deleted Items file to find the 
rest of it!

Not that I always remember to change the header on my posts, mind you.
-E House 

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We have had discussions in the past about carpal
> tunnel syndrome and sewing, going into prevention and treatment and
> treatment.  But again, it's something of interest to several list
> members, sewing is a big element of making costume, etc.

I think that if a medical condition is discussed, even if costume 
related that person should be allowed to control the discussion about 
themselves.  It's one thing if a person says themselves that they got 
carpal tunnel syndrome from doing hand sewing, but they found out that 
it helped to change their hand position in a certain way, and they feel 
it is helpful to the list if they pass this info on.

It's a different thing if there is a discussion about carpal tunnel, and 
someone says, "Costumer Jane Doe has it and none of her treatment has 
belped and she's really depressed because she might have to give up her 
costuming business."  That's just gossip.  I also think even Jane's 
input should be costume-related, for example, "My doctor told me to quit 
a session of hand sewing as soon as it became painful. I did not follow 
her advice and my condition got worse, so take warning by me."

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com




> 
>      -Carol
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] REPRINT BOOK IRON TIME Fwd: [DW-L] [GERMAN]Fwd:
 Neuauflage! Schlabow: Textilfunde der Eisenzeit in Norddeutschland
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Has anyone heard of this?  Sounds awfuly interesting!
Elisabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: carlton_bach@YAHOO.DE
To: DW-L@DRACHENWALD.SCA.ORG
Sent: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 2:42 PM
Subject: [DW-L] [GERMAN]Fwd: Neuauflage! Schlabow: Textilfunde der 
Eisenzeit in Norddeutschland

Salve

apologies for forwarding a foreign-language mail, but this may be of 
great
interest to some members. A German print-on-demand publisher is 
reissuing
Karl Schlabow: Textilfunde der Eisenzeit in Norddeutschland, which is 
THE
definitive work on the rich treasure trove of bog textiles excavated in
Germany. The book includes copious illustrations, drawings, and
reconstructions of the crafts and techniques used in manufacture. In 
short,
if you have the skills you can reweave most of the pieces 1:1 with this 
work.

The projected price is around EUR 50, orders can be placed here:

 h.wachholtz@wachholtz.de
<mailto:h.wachholtz@wachholtz.de>

I don't know how they handle foreign orders, unfortunately. But asking 
won't
hurt.

YIS

Giano

----------  Weitergeleitete Nachricht  ----------

Subject: Neuauflage! Karl Schlabow: Textilfunde der Eisenzeit in
Norddeutschland
Date: Montag, 17. Juli 2006 18:12
From: C2C Media <info@c2c-media.de>

Eureka!!!


Auf meine Anregung hin hat der Wachholtz-Verlag NeumÃ¼nster sich
entschlossen, das vielfach gesuchte & zitierte Standardwerk

â€žTextilfunde der Eisenzeit in Norddeutschlandâ€œ von Karl Schlabow

(1976, ISBN: 3529015156)


im Rahmen des BoD-Verfahrens (Books on Demand) wieder aufzulegen. Der
Preis wird ca. 50 Euro betragen â€“ inklusive Versand direkt durch den
Wachholtz-Verlag. Es dauert etwa vom Tag des Postings an 4-6 Wochen, bis
die Neuauflage gedruckt wird. Etwas Geduld mÃ¼sst Ihr also haben.

Bitte schickt Eure Bestellungen *unter Angabe Eurer vollstÃ¤ndigen
Postanschrift* per Mail an:

Um Doppelposts zu vermeiden: Diese Nachricht erscheint auch im
ArchÃ¤oforum sowie bei Tempus Vivit und Flinkhand-Forum. Falls Ihr
weitere Foren und Interessenten kennt, verbreitet bitte die gute Kunde.
Je mehr Bestellungen, desto besser. Einen "Bestellschluss" gibt es
nicht; der Verlag entscheidet dann selbst, wie viel aufgelegt wird.

Danke und viel SpaÃŸ mit â€ždem Schlabowâ€œ wÃ¼nscht Euch Bettina

--
Bettina von Stockfleth

C2C Media
Heitmannstr. 66
22083 Hamburg

Tel.:   +49 (0) 40 21 99 36 25
E-Mail: info@c2c-media.de
Web:    http://www.c2c-media.de

-------------------------------------------------------






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From: Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
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  I would suggest that if you can't find the colour in Nail polish, try Testor's Model paint - which is a laquer and will not rub off like acrylic will. (Acrylic can also melt in the wash and stick to your fabric where you don't want it) Model paints usually come in very small bottles, and a bigger range of colours than nail polish. Most hobby shops that carry car models will have it.

Sheridan P.


> In a message dated 7/17/2006 12:23:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> katybishop64@gmail.com writes:
> 
> Can you  paint the tab?  Nail polish maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> Given the color, you may not find nail polish, but perhaps acrylic craft  
> paint?
>  
> Ann Wass


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Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 14:17:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish hat styles 1550 men and women
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Are you speaking of an "Italian Bonnet" or an actual flat cap?
   
  Lynn McMasters has very good patterns.
  http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/witalianpatcover.html
  http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/mitalianpatcover.html
  http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/THPcover.html
   
  I've made the Italian bonnet (mens) for my husband, and it went together very quickly and very well.
   
  Kimiko
  

Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez <ladycatalina@hotmail.com> wrote:
  Does anyone know where to find a good hat pattern for this period? It looks 
like a Tudor flat cap but somehow a little different.



Catalina
nunca sin mi vino


 		
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Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 18:12:47 -0400
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Just out of curiosity - why attempt to reinvent the wheel just because one 
individual objects to certain postings? h-costume appears to suit the needs 
of the majority of posters and lurkers; if it doesn't suit a given persons 
needs, perhaps they need to look elsewhere.
Kelly


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You don't think it is better to present constructive suggestions as to 
how _all_ h-costume members can focus on which of the many posts 
interest them most, than to simply complain, argue about what is 
acceptable, have people quit the group, etc.?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

RobinandKelly Dorman wrote:

> Just out of curiosity - why attempt to reinvent the wheel just because 
> one individual objects to certain postings? h-costume appears to suit 
> the needs of the majority of posters and lurkers; if it doesn't suit a 
> given persons needs, perhaps they need to look elsewhere.
> Kelly
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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On Mon, 17 Jul 2006, Lavolta Press wrote:

> You don't think it is better to present constructive suggestions as to
> how _all_ h-costume members can focus on which of the many posts
> interest them most, than to simply complain, argue about what is
> acceptable, have people quit the group, etc.?

Did I miss something?

Has anyone been complaining, arguing about what is acceptable, or quitting
the group? I mean, before you introduced the current discussion?

I do see those sorts of problems periodically on other lists, but I
haven't seen much of it here that I can think of. But I don't read all the
posts, so perhaps I missed it.

--Robin

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> Did I miss something?

Yes.  I complained about too much off-topic chat, and emails such as 
congratulations which should be personal, and Kelly said that:

"Just out of curiosity - why attempt to reinvent the wheel just because 
one individual objects to certain postings? h-costume appears to suit 
the needs of the majority of posters and lurkers; if it doesn't suit a 
given persons needs, perhaps they need to look elsewhere.
Kelly"

Although I thought other people also thought maybe there was a bit too 
much off-topic and personal chat, I assume "the one individual" means 
me.  If not, who is it?

As I have no intention of leaving a list whose substantive messages are 
of value and interest me (and as some other people seem to like chat), I 
suggested the filters as something that has been of great value to me on 
another list, and which might make everyone on h-costume happier without 
clogging the list from anyone's viewpoint.

Anyone who wishes is welcome to filter out all my emails by my sender 
address, or any other means their email program or ISP supports.  That's 
what I do, but it's harder to automatically filter out all personal chat 
on any subject from any member.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Peacock Feathers - England - 1278
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I've been studying Manor Accounts, and in the 
"Account of the reeve of Sevenhampton from 
Michaelmas 1278 to Michaelmas 1279" there is 
mention of selling the tail of feathers moulted by 
their peacock.

"Peacock tails (caude pavonum)
He answers for 2 peacock tails produced
Of these 1 sold: total 1
and there remains the last tail."

Please can someone tell me the likely use of these 
feathers?
Were they stitched to a skirt or a head-dress, 
perhaps?
Were they added to a hat, or made into a fan?
Something else?

Or am I wrong, and they weren't used for costume 
purposes at all:  maybe they would have been 
wanted for some sort of interior decorating?  Or 
for some other function - medicinal, a fancy pen, 
something beyond my wildest imaginings?

Yours, awaiting your replies with interest,
Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).
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>You don't think it is better to present constructive suggestions as to how _all_ h-costume members can focus on which of the many posts 
>interest them most, than to simply complain, argue about what is 
>acceptable, have people quit the group, etc.?

Having done a lot of reading and writing, I'm perfectly capable of skimming the digest titles and then briefly checking I don't miss a nugget of gold in amongst the chat.
 
BTW  - As someone who /did/ respond in public in a way that some people find offensive/unnecessarily open/whatever with some personal information, I just want to say TOUGH if you don't like it. 
 
You don't have to read my messages, I don't have to read yours - I skimmed hundreds, literally, after the hurricane last year but you know what, I was glad to know everyone was still alive and ok. If I could have helped, I would have been glad to be asked, even though it wasn't costume related. No complaints, no arguing, no quitting - although to be honest I'm considering it after this latest bout of po-faced negativity.
 
What I /would/ like is a way to filter the digest messages.
 
Katherine.
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katherine sanders wrote:

> Thanks to all who replied on and off list: I am going to try the nail varnish - if no luck, then acrylic and if all fails, suggest the paperclip (which is a good idea for me personally but maybe not for my v. nice customer).
>  
> Katherine (brain stumped by heat as much as anything complicated!)


Somehow I never saw the original, so I'm not sure what the question was, 
but I would caution against painting with water-soluable acrylic craft 
paints. I use those regularly for a variety of crafts and hobbies, and 
if you are painting on metal or plastic you usually need a primer in 
order to get the paint to stay, and usually also a sealant coat of clear 
finishing product. Otherwise normal handling will cause the paint to rub 
off the metal or plastic surface fairly quickly.


Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
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> Thanks to all who replied on and off list: I am going to try the nail
varnish - if no luck, then acrylic and if all fails, suggest the paperclip
(which is a good idea for me personally but maybe not for my v. nice
customer).

The tab is cream, I'm guessing, from experience, thatit is metal painted
cream. The dress is green..

Why not dye the tab? Paint takes dye, I've had a few mishaps in this regard,
it won't chip off, except when the original piant will chip off.

I also like the idea of a feature zip pull. But if that is an option, make
sure her hair won't get tangled in it!

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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Thanks to all who replied on and off list: I am going to try the nail varnish - if no luck, then acrylic and if all fails, suggest the paperclip (which is a good idea for me personally but maybe not for my v. nice customer).
 
Katherine (brain stumped by heat as much as anything complicated!)
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Status: RO


, I just want to say TOUGH if you don't like it.

My opinions are as valid as yours.  Meanwhile, I am trying to present a 
constructive solution that might help you and others.

I gave up subscribing to digests for any list as soon as I discovered
filters, precisely because filters are much more efficient. For one 
thing, you can set up subject filters that work with all the lists
you subscribe to, and with non-email-list messages.  For example, one
of my subject filters is "Virus Warning."  I have a body filter that
puts everything with the word "Nigeria" anywhere in it into my Trash 
folder, because so far every message I've ever gotten with "Nigeria" in 
it is some sort of spam/con.


- I skimmed hundreds, literally, after the hurricane last year but you 
know what

, I was glad to know everyone was still alive and ok.

Yes, I can read well enough to skim hundreds of headers too.  However, I 
don't see why I should spend the time when I don't have to.

The point is not whether people should be warm-hearted and help each 
other. The point is whether on an unrelated list they should keep all or 
most of it to private email.

Although to be honest I'm considering it after this latest bout of 
po-faced negativity.

Insstead of presenting a situation whether either you or I have to quit 
h-costume, and perhaps asking other people to take sides as to which of 
us should quit, why not do or suggest something constructive?  There are 
technical solutions, if not 100% perfect ones, to the problem of what to 
do with too much untargeted information on the Internet.

For me, filters are more effective than email list digests.  If you 
don't like the idea of filters, what is your constructive suggestion?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 19:25:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] subject lines
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

> Although I thought other people also thought maybe there was a bit too
> much off-topic and personal chat, I assume "the one individual" means
> me.  If not, who is it?

     Hey, it's not just one individual - there are two of us at least!

     As far as people unsubbing, there were some implications of that,
such as not wanting to lose the list as a resource or suggestions
that people can go elsewhere.

     Maybe it's because I'm getting old, but I hate change.  One change
that I see in various places on the internet is drama.  I really
enjoy the on-topic, serious, "professional", scholarly tone of
H-Costume — even those new to costume or new to the list can see
that. Although some may feel intimidated to post at first, they can
see that we're high on information and low on noise.

     So when I see things happening that are personal, chatty, off-topic,
gossip, what-have-you, I cringe a bit and hope it will stop very
soon.  I don't want to lose the people, the flavor, and the topics
that remind me why I enjoy historic costume so much.

     And while a couple of people have commented that they did not think
it was a problem, I have not seen anything saying that they think
it's great to go off-topic, or that it's fun to read one-liners over
and over, or that it's helpful to speculate about someone's personal
life.

     On a lighter note, for those who enjoy a parody of Internet Drama:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXUHy8vrVY0

     -Carol

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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: h-cost was "Subject Lines" - Reinventing the Wheel &
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Status: RO

Okay, at the risk of posting a "me too" message, I'd like to see
something that would help filter out some of the extra chatty
messages.  I'm on a lot of email lists and I have limited time to read
email some days, so being able to filter out the chat stuff, that I
usually do no more than read, or delete unread if I can detect it,
would be a great time saver for me.

If there is a way that we can do that, it would be great.

alex
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 19:50:45 -0400
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Status: RO

	I would find all the prefixes far too cumbersome, and frankly I
don't think the majority on the list would use them; consequently it might
confuse the list further. We can't get people to change subject headers, let
alone use prefixes. Can't tell you the number of times I've come in late to
a discussion, only to find what is being discussed has nothing remotely to
do with the subject.

	This system works well for a disciplined group. I was on a writer's
group that used this system effectively. Here? Sorry, no.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Fran wrote:

>You don't think it is better to present constructive suggestions as to how 
>_all_ h-costume members can focus on which of the many posts interest them 
>most, than to simply complain, argue about what is acceptable, have people 
>quit the group, etc.?

Isn't rather presumptous to assume that your suggestions would be considered 
improvements by "all" h-costume members?
Personally, I prefer making people more inclined to post, not less. As my 
"delete" button is functional, I simply move on if a post is not one I'm 
interested in.
As I stated before, why does h-costume (or any group) have an obligation to 
meet your individual needs? Not all groups are suited for all individuals; 
if it's not a good fit - move on. Perhaps you would be more satisfied owning 
your own group, where it would be appropriate for you to dictate the 
standards.
Kelly


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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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All I see here is a desire to insinuate that I have said several things 
I never said, and that I do not think, and generally to flame. And no 
suggestions of yours as to how to make things better.

If you want to flame me, take it to private email.  I won't answer it, 
but it may make you feel better.  I doubt extensive public expression of 
your dislike for me will make anyone else feel better.

Fran

RobinandKelly Dorman wrote:

> Fran wrote:
> 
>> You don't think it is better to present constructive suggestions as to 
>> how _all_ h-costume members can focus on which of the many posts 
>> interest them most, than to simply complain, argue about what is 
>> acceptable, have people quit the group, etc.?
> 
> 
> Isn't rather presumptous to assume that your suggestions would be 
> considered improvements by "all" h-costume members?
> Personally, I prefer making people more inclined to post, not less. As 
> my "delete" button is functional, I simply move on if a post is not one 
> I'm interested in.
> As I stated before, why does h-costume (or any group) have an obligation 
> to meet your individual needs? Not all groups are suited for all 
> individuals; if it's not a good fit - move on. Perhaps you would be more 
> satisfied owning your own group, where it would be appropriate for you 
> to dictate the standards.
> Kelly
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] To the lady in charge of this list?
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Could you please contact me privately?

Genie

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Prefixes for headers?  (was: Re: [h-cost] The delete button...)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 21:14:15 -0400
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On Monday 17 July 2006 1:53 am, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Sun, 16 Jul 2006, Lavolta Press wrote:
> > So what about a system of CHAT:  for chat, compliments, me-toos,
> > computer problems, off-topic, and in short everything not a
> > substantive message on costuming, versus no header at all for
> > everything else?
>
> That strikes me as being more likely to succeed, and to be useful, than
> asking that every post be tagged in some way, which is what I thought you
> were suggesting originally.


For what it's worth; I didn't read Fran's original suggestion as "asking that 
every post be tagged in some way."  I thought she was only recommending that 
we establish a small set (no more than 4, say) of common tags (such as 
"CHAT:") that people would be encouraged to use.  I apologize for not having 
been clearer myself.

I don't think that more can be done on *any* list, since the only practical 
means of enforcement (cutting off the offender's list access) would tend to 
kill off the list.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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> 
> For what it's worth; I didn't read Fran's original suggestion as "asking that 
> every post be tagged in some way."  I thought she was only recommending that 
> we establish a small set (no more than 4, say) of common tags (such as 
> "CHAT:") that people would be encouraged to use.  I apologize for not having 
> been clearer myself.

Exactly, and I'm sorry if I confused people by using the term "header" 
to mean tag/prefix for a subject line. Which on retrospect was bad idea, 
because if you want to modify an actual message header you have to hack 
it, which is only done by people like spammers.

Fran
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10607171711030.10310-100000@shell.nightowl.net><44BC132C.8080406@lavoltapress.com>
	<49754.72.13.239.193.1153178747.squirrel@webmail.patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] subject lines
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 20:49:34 -0600
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Status: RO

May I add that some of us have just been staying *out* of the whole mess?
;o)
I'm on H-costume for the sheer variety of topics and times and talents, from
the long-time amateurs such as myself to the professionals in theatre or
research--it's all yummy.  (and no, I didn't start out intending to make
them all "t" words, but it's really hot here, so what the heck....) I don't
mind the occasional chattiness at all--if there's a whole bunch of "me, too"
posts, I just delete them as I would any thread in which I have no interest.
So here's one person who will upfront say that she likes the chat.  It's a
bit like being in a room full of people (as in a party, or a fun
convention), all talking about similar things, all at once, and I tune in to
what I want to listen to and contribute to.  I don't find myself cringing in
the least (groaning, occasionally, though, if something goes on and on and
on, as this whole mess seems to be....)
On the other hand, I have enough to do with my work and leisure time without
fussing over whether I've got the right freaking "tag" in my subject line.
I already do try to remember the basics of "OT" for "off-topic," or "OOP"
for "out of period" on time-restricted lists, and things like changing
subject lines.
And I really don't see much "speculation" over anyone's personal life that's
uninvited.  Frankly, if someone drops a big, blue note in the middle of the
list, I think they're asking for comment, or they wouldn't be going to the
trouble of typing it up and sending it.  Ditto, snarky words or sneaky
comments, or outright rudeness.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] subject lines


> > Although I thought other people also thought maybe there was a bit too
> > much off-topic and personal chat, I assume "the one individual" means
> > me.  If not, who is it?
>
>      Hey, it's not just one individual - there are two of us at least!
>
>      As far as people unsubbing, there were some implications of that,
> such as not wanting to lose the list as a resource or suggestions
> that people can go elsewhere.
>
>      Maybe it's because I'm getting old, but I hate change.  One change
> that I see in various places on the internet is drama.  I really
> enjoy the on-topic, serious, "professional", scholarly tone of
> H-Costume - even those new to costume or new to the list can see
> that. Although some may feel intimidated to post at first, they can
> see that we're high on information and low on noise.
>
>      So when I see things happening that are personal, chatty, off-topic,
> gossip, what-have-you, I cringe a bit and hope it will stop very
> soon.  I don't want to lose the people, the flavor, and the topics
> that remind me why I enjoy historic costume so much.
>
>      And while a couple of people have commented that they did not think
> it was a problem, I have not seen anything saying that they think
> it's great to go off-topic, or that it's fun to read one-liners over
> and over, or that it's helpful to speculate about someone's personal
> life.
>
>      On a lighter note, for those who enjoy a parody of Internet Drama:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXUHy8vrVY0
>
>      -Carol


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In a message dated 7/17/2006 9:03:18 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

I was  glad to know everyone was still alive and ok
I have been wondering if a certain person is still on the list.  I  can't 
remember her name exactly.  She lived in Israel.  Does it ring a  bell?  I was 
wondering if she was okay.
Thanks,
Kelly  
m311@aol.com
www.mysensaria.com/time2spa
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Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 00:10:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Prefixes for headers?  (was: Re: [h-cost] The delete button...)
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Can we kill this discussion?
There's nothing wrong with this list.
If something comes up that you don't want to read, don't read it. If you  
accidentally read something you find to be a waste of time, well boo  hoo!  Who 
here has spent any significant amount of time reading such  things?
 
This place is an oasis of fine tuned subjects compared to many other lists.  
We don't need any more policing. If it ain't broke, don't fix  it!
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Status: RO



> Can we kill this discussion?
> There's nothing wrong with this list.
> If something comes up that you don't want to read, don't read it. If you  
> accidentally read something you find to be a waste of time, well boo  hoo!  Who 
> here has spent any significant amount of time reading such  things?

Like many other people on the list, there are _some_ messages you don't 
want to process at all--or you would not ask to have a discussion killed 
instead of just ignoring those messages.  I understand.  I feel the same 
way.  When it became clear that people had different ideas about which 
discussions are irrelevant and uninteresting, I proposed the idea of 
filters to see what people thought of it. Some like the idea, some 
don't. OK.  Any inference (not yours, I know) that I'm trying to take 
over h-costume or impose standards on everyone by making such a 
suggestion is absurd--it's not even technically possible.

So, now we can all go back to flaming each other and asking for 
discussions to be killed whenever =someone gets bored.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Status: RO

Fran wrote:
Anyone who wishes is welcome to filter out all my emails by my sender 
address, or any other means their email program or ISP supports.  

	Unless a person is receiving digest format, in which case you get
all the good and bad anyway, scan subjects, and choose from there. The fact
people don't change subject lines often means I scan subjects, scroll down
through the digest, find what is being currently discussed has nothing to do
with the subject, and so I delete. A goodly number of digests end up being
deleted because I grow weary having to sort through all the messages of a
digest, scroll through all the un-snipped background, or in some cases,
entire digests.

	Not to be a wet blanket, but people don't change subject lines. They
aren't going to use prefixes with any consistency either. Not here. 

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Subject: RE: Prefixes for headers?  (was: Re: [h-cost] The delete button...)
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 00:24:22 -0700
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Status: RO

Not being a computer person, I don't know if this is possible: When you have
a "reply" to a post, whether it is a contribution or just a compliment,
would it be possible to make the computer automatically put a "reply" notice
in the topic window, along with the original topic line?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 10:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: Prefixes for headers? (was: Re: [h-cost] The delete button...)




> Can we kill this discussion?
> There's nothing wrong with this list.
> If something comes up that you don't want to read, don't read it. If 
> you
> accidentally read something you find to be a waste of time, well boo  hoo!
Who 
> here has spent any significant amount of time reading such  things?

Like many other people on the list, there are _some_ messages you don't 
want to process at all--or you would not ask to have a discussion killed 
instead of just ignoring those messages.  I understand.  I feel the same 
way.  When it became clear that people had different ideas about which 
discussions are irrelevant and uninteresting, I proposed the idea of 
filters to see what people thought of it. Some like the idea, some 
don't. OK.  Any inference (not yours, I know) that I'm trying to take 
over h-costume or impose standards on everyone by making such a 
suggestion is absurd--it's not even technically possible.

So, now we can all go back to flaming each other and asking for 
discussions to be killed whenever =someone gets bored.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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Subject: [h-cost] exhibit of interest
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Dear Julian,

Unfortunately, we are not going to the UK this year, but this exhibit in 
Manchester looks quite interesting:
Clothing Culture: Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD
http://www.whitworth.man.ac.uk/collections/search/display-exh/index.htm?irn=858&QueryPage=%2Fcollections%2Fsearch%2Fexhibitions%2Findex.htm

I'll have to tack down a copy of the catalogue!

Beth  

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Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 09:00:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] exhibit of interest
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On Tue, 18 Jul 2006, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> Unfortunately, we are not going to the UK this year, but this exhibit in 
> Manchester looks quite interesting:
> Clothing Culture: Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD
> http://www.whitworth.man.ac.uk/collections/search/display-exh/index.htm?irn=858&QueryPage=%2Fcollections%2Fsearch%2Fexhibitions%2Findex.htm
> 
> I'll have to tack down a copy of the catalogue!

I have a flyer for it right here. The title is the same as the exhibit;
author is Frances Pritchard, the Curator for Textiles there. 160 pages,
195 illustrations. ISBN 0-903261-57-X. Price is 25 English pounds (sorry,
can't get the pound sign quickly in this program). Shipping in the UK is
5.50 pounds, rest of Europe 7 pounds, rest of world 14 pounds airmail or 7
pounds surface mail.

To order, contact:

The Whitworth Art Gallery
University of Manchester
Oxford Road
Manchester, M15 6ER
ENGLAND
e-mail: whitworth@manchester.ac.uk

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] an open note to Fran [others don't read it if you don't
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In a message dated 7/18/2006 1:16:29 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

So, now  we can all go back to flaming each other and asking for 
discussions to be  killed whenever =someone gets bored.



***********************
 
The initial discussion was actually OK...but it went on and on.
 
You are a valuable member of the list, and I meant no personal attack...on  
ANYBODY. 
And, anyway, you books on bustle gowns just get better and better  every time 
I open them!
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> 	Unless a person is receiving digest format, in which case you get
> all the good and bad anyway, scan subjects, and choose from there.

That is why I find individual messages to be more efficient than 
digests.  You can set up a mail folder for a specific e-group, and have 
all messages from that group automatically directed to it on downloa. 
You can then skim through the subject headers without reading the emails 
just as if it were a digest.  You can filter all emails from specific 
senders, and subjects of frequent occurence and definite disinterest, 
directly into your trash folder, and so on.

I do agree that accurate subject lines, with or without prefixes such as 
CHAT:, are an excellent thing.

I also like Yahoo lists because you can drop in and read emails now and 
then whenever you feel like it, without receiving messages 
automatically, or you can receive them automatically if you prefer. 
Yahoo also keeps archives.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



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Subject: [h-cost] Flat caps...
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HI
Not to interrupt the subject line discussion or anything <VVBEG> but 
how late were the 'flat caps' (ones that look like a short stack) 
worn? In England? In the American Colonies? I've seen a ref on the 
web that suggests they lingered in London  long enough to become a 
slang ID for Londoners, but no dates no back up refs.
Thanks
Carol --something new on the needles!
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bodiced Petticoats - Regency
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I'm making a bodiced petticoat, based off of the picture in _The History of Underclothes_ by the Cunnington's. Unfortunately, it's from the 1820s but it was the only picture of a bodiced petticoat I could find (the others were all re-drawings), so that's why I went with that one. If you have pictures of extant bodiced petticoat's that are earlier, I'd appreciate the references, even if the photos aren't as clear as we might wish :-)

I am draping the bodiced petticoat myself, so I can't give you any recommendations vis-à-vis patterns. For fabric I'm using cotton muslin (due to cost and availability issues). I believe that for the early regency era they would likely have used linen, rather then cotton (I can't remember where I ran across that info, as I've been very surprised by how little there is on regency underclothes...it may have been from the documentation in Kannik's Corner's "Woman's Shift 1790-1820" pattern - which is adorable! Even if it is a trifle fussy to make.)

Sorry to not be more helpful.
	-sunny 

 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: subject lines
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On Tue, 18 Jul 2006, Lavolta Press wrote:

> I also like Yahoo lists because you can drop in and read emails now
> and then whenever you feel like it, without receiving messages
> automatically, or you can receive them automatically if you prefer.  
> Yahoo also keeps archives.

H-cost is now archived in two or three places, and you can choose to read
online rather than getting messages automatically (though you would
probably want to reply from your own e-mail box).

http://news.gmane.org/gmane.culture.studies.history.costume
http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/index.html

I've found these useful for keeping up with the list while I am traveling.

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan doublet issues
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Hello, I post rarely, but I do have a question, and due to the heat, or just 
natural issues with geometry, I'm having a problem with Margot Anderson's 
doublet pattern.
I've sewn up a number of them, the sewing goes great, and they used to fit 
before I put on some weight.

The doublet still fits through the body, but....they no longer fit at the 
collarbone, which is an odd spot for a fitting issue. I can't fasten the 
buttons, even after moving them onto the edge binding, so that some of the 
smock shows behind the buttonhole.

Does anyone have a suggestion for where to add the extra material, or how to 
add it, so that it isn't obvious? Considering the amount of work I've put 
into them (average 20 handmade, pearled, buttons, and buttonholes on each 
one; plus, embroidery inspired by Bjarne) I'd rather not give them to the 
Barony's loaner garb.

Many thanks for any suggestions,
Robert of Stonemarche 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: exhibit of interest
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Thanks for the additional details, Robin. I have an email to the Whitworth 
already on the way...

Beth

 > Clothing Culture: Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD
 > I'll have to track down a copy of the catalogue!

>Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 09:00:45 -0500 (CDT)
>From: Robin Netherton
>
>I have a flyer for it right here. The title is the same as the exhibit;
>author is Frances Pritchard, the Curator for Textiles there. 160 pages,
>195 illustrations. ISBN 0-903261-57-X. Price is 25 English pounds (sorry,
>can't get the pound sign quickly in this program). Shipping in the UK is
>5.50 pounds, rest of Europe 7 pounds, rest of world 14 pounds airmail or 7
>pounds surface mail.
>
>To order, contact:
>
>The Whitworth Art Gallery
>University of Manchester
>Oxford Road
>Manchester, M15 6ER
>ENGLAND
>e-mail: whitworth@manchester.ac.uk
>
>--Robin

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Robert Dorr wrote:


> 
> The doublet still fits through the body, but....they no longer fit at 
> the collarbone, which is an odd spot for a fitting issue. I can't fasten 
> the buttons, even after moving them onto the edge binding, so that some 
> of the smock shows behind the buttonhole.

Could this be because of added weight at the upper chest and back? Can 
you put inserts into the center back or back side seams to widen the 
back? Something like a narrow strip of contrasting bias which could look 
like a seam trim? Perhaps slashes across the upper chest area?



Dawn


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Fran wrote:
>My opinions are as valid as yours.  
 
Ditto, which is why I suggested simply skimming/deleting. To be honest, I can't see how anyone finds the second or two it takes to realise a message isn't worth reading a real and serious drain on their time (since I get the digest). If I'm too busy, I just let the mail pile up and get on with whatever is so important. Maybe you're on too many lists? (I unsubscribed from a lot last year for the same reason, BION).
 
>Meanwhile, I am trying to present a constructive solution that might help you and others.
 
Dandy.
 
>I gave up subscribing to digests for any list as soon as I discovered filters, precisely because filters are much more efficient. 
 
Yup, I filter /lots/ - but the sheer volume here means that a digest is by far the quickest way to get through the noise-to-content and find out what I need.
 
>The point is not whether people should be warm-hearted and help each other. The point is whether on an >unrelated list they should keep all or most of it to private email.
 
Two things: helping people is - for me - what makes the net useful. Whether that's all the assistance I've had from the people on this list or copying pages from a book for someone or donating stuff after a natural disaster: none of it would be possible without the internet and this list. When it goes off topic - and yup, it does it more than I'd like sometimes - I just zip past. The second is that I don't see the point (and this is /not/ personal) in complaining about it since it really honestly doesn't affect my life that much and people are needing to chat/talk/share unrelated info. If they need to, fine, I don't usually. That's all.
 
>Insstead of presenting a situation whether either you or I have to quit h-costume, and perhaps asking other >people to take sides as to which of us should quit, why not do or suggest something constructive?  
 
I don't think that is an option, is it? It isn't a duel at the OK Corral and I certainly hadn't seen it like that - until you suggested it!  As for other folk taking sides...  I think that a) we're all adults and b) the debate is rather more about the relative tolerance of chat and noise outside costuming. That is going to vary with each individual and how they feel that hour/day. It's certainly nothing more personal than that and I assumed you wouldn't take it as such, given previous discussions.
 
IF people feel like saying OT in a header why not see if it works, informally? I know that discussions are often taken off list but it would be a shame if people took costume related chat offline in case anyone got ticked off and we missed out. Me, I'd rather wade through miles of "how cool" than miss where the original inspiration for the garment/research/technique came from. YMMV, as they say.
 
Katherine
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: subject lines
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On Tue, 18 Jul 2006, Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:
> 	Not to be a wet blanket, but people don't change subject lines. They
> aren't going to use prefixes with any consistency either. Not here.

It may be possible that it's a lost cause. But couldn't we try? :) If
everyone spent thirty seconds more for each post to trim the quotes and
double-check the subject line, I think that would be a huge step in a
direction that many of us would be very happy with.

The problem that someone mentioned of making the subject line describe a
post with several different topics, can easily be solved by making a
separate post per topic. That way it's also easier to catch the eye of
the people who know something about the specific topics, and so everyone
gains from it - the poster gets more specific replies, interested
parties find good discussions, and those not interested can delete.

To me, the "just delete what you don't like" is fair advice in a group
like this - but the fact of the matter is that it doesn't work if you
can't be sure what's in a post before you've read the entire thing. So
if everyone just takes a second to glance at the subject line before
they post, that really does help a lot. :)

Ingrid
-- 
Follow your dreams. Unless it's
the one where you go to work naked.



-- 
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Subject: [h-cost] h-cost: subject lines & reinventing the wheel
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 >To be honest, I can't see how anyone finds the second or two it takes 
 >to realise a message isn't worth reading a real and serious drain on 
 >their time (since I get the digest).

You've heard my opinions on digests versus filters.

 >If I'm too busy, I just let the mail pile up and get on with whatever 
 >is so important. Maybe you're on too many lists? (I unsubscribed from 
a >lot last year for the same reason, BION).

H-costume and the translators' list are the only ones from which I 
receive messages directly, that have any high volume of mail.  I'm on a 
couple of others that are in the three-emails-a-day category.

The thing is:  There are enormous quantities of information available on 
the Internet and elsewhere.  The ability to sort out what information 
you want, from what you don't, is increasingly important.  The most 
efficient solutions are technical, not manual.

One thing I really want, BTW, is better search engines.  Partly as in, 
ones that don't sort the top results by how much advertising the owners 
of those websites bought from the search engine company.

And I believe in saving ten minutes where I can, because time really 
adds up (or subtracts down).  For example, my computer takes only a few 
minutes to boot; but unless I'm trying to write down error messages from 
a problem, there is no point in staring at the monitor when I can make a 
cup of tea and a fast breakfast during that time (I eat breakfast and 
lunch at my keyboard).  Or, I don't like having a bath or a shower as 
dead time. So every time I go to take a shower I decide on a specific 
problem to solve that is probably solvable in that amount of time.  Like 
a difficult paragraph or two to write.  Or a specific decision to make. 
  Usually I come out with the answer.  I also sometimes set problems for 
thinking about at odd hours during the night, if I wake up. Especially 
for the time right after I wake up in the morning and have the dilemma 
about how to get up to drink some caffeine, without the energy the 
caffeine gives me to get up.  The problem gives me something useful to 
do in the meantime. I get a lot done that way.

BTW, a number of writers have told me these tips were useful to them, so 
maybe they will be for some people on this list.

I also spend most of my hours processing information, by reading, 
writing, and thinking. There's a lot more of it available than I can 
ever process, so throwing out all the info I don't want to read is 
extremely important to me.  I've got thousands of books, and I've got a 
couple of hundred on my immediate to-read pile. And there is a lot of 
information on the Internet, which is a pain to sort out because there 
is such a high proportion of it that I don't want.

However, I figure that many other people feel the same way, or they 
wouldn't complain about subject lines and snipping.

 >Two things: helping people is - for me - what makes the net useful.

For me, what makes the Internet useful is information.  I spend my whole 
professional life trying to be useful. That's what writing is about, 
especially nonfiction.  If you're any good, professional writing is 
never about you, even when it appears to be.  It's always about the 
reader--what will inform the reader, entertain the reader, do for the 
reader whatever that publication is supposed to do.

 >The second is that I don't see the >point (and this is /not/ personal) 
 >in complaining about it since it >really honestly doesn't affect my 
 >life that much and people are needing >to chat/talk/share unrelated 
 >info. If they need to, fine, I don't >usually. That's all.

I complained, then I moved on to trying to solve the problem with the 
technical solutions that are available and that I believe to be most 
effective.  I see no problem in also offering those solutions to others.

As I said, I'm not normally a chat person--and BTW most of this message 
qualifies as chat from my point of view.  I want all conversations to be 
informative, interesting, challenging, productive.  My favorite people 
have always been computer geeks or science nerds. They're never boring 
and they get straight to the point.  I'd much rather be around people 
who are intelligent than people who are conventionally "nice." 
Especially since niceness and kindness are not the same thing, just as 
belonging to a clique is not the same thing as friendship.

 >It isn't a duel at the OK Corral and I certainly hadn't seen it like 
 >that - until you suggested it!

Come on. It would be a great event.  Although I'd actually prefer 
rapiers at dawn for an earlier era, if you don't mind. More romantic, 
and I'd look awful in a cowboy hat.

 > Me, I'd rather wade through miles of "how cool" than miss where the > 
original inspiration for the garment/research/technique came from. YMMV, 
 > as they say.

Now there is where we definitely disagree. If I could avoid wading 
through 100% of the stuff that doesn't interest me I'd be overjoyed.

Fran

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Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 11:19:24 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
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In a message dated 7/17/2006 12:09:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk writes:
>Any  suggestions? (polite ones thank you).  No sign of zips this colour in
>the  locale so I could always take it out and put in a regular one but this is
>so  cool and makes it look like just another seam... until you get to the tab
>at  the top!

Remove the icky colored tab & replace with a Swarovsky crystal
"jewel", a wine glass charm or a vintage sterling charm bracelet
element.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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>Could this be because of added weight at the upper chest and back? Can
>you put inserts into the center back or back side seams to widen the
>back?
>Dawn

Oh, d'oh, I never thought of weight on the back...I can't do anything with 
centre back, but, I may be able to tweak where the armhole meets the back 
side seam. (I have a half finished one that I haven't finished binding) I 
may just end up putting something at the front and extend the button side of 
the doublet (buttonholes are already worked, else I'd have added the 
material symmetrically)

Thank you for the thought, Dawn,
Robert of Stonemarche 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] an open note to Fran [others don't read it if you don't
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I know you didn't mean a personal attack on me, Albert.  Which was why I 
was unable to resist saying that--I knew you wouldn't take it as one 
either.  And I would hope you know I think you're a valuable list member 
too.

So, how do you feel about a FLAME:  prefix?

Fran


AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>  
> In a message dated 7/18/2006 1:16:29 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> fran@lavoltapress.com writes:
> 
> So, now  we can all go back to flaming each other and asking for 
> discussions to be  killed whenever =someone gets bored.
> 
> 
> 
> ***********************
>  
> The initial discussion was actually OK...but it went on and on.
>  
> You are a valuable member of the list, and I meant no personal attack...on  
> ANYBODY. 
> And, anyway, you books on bustle gowns just get better and better  every time 
> I open them!

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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Chico CA
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Anything good to do in Chico?  I *will* be there starting next weekend
for a few days.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Prefixes for headers?  
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The RE: or Re: in the subject line = reply and tends to be automatic with
most if not all computers. From my understanding.

-----Original Message-----

Not being a computer person, I don't know if this is possible: When you have
a "reply" to a post, whether it is a contribution or just a compliment,
would it be possible to make the computer automatically put a "reply" notice
in the topic window, along with the original topic line?



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I'm trying to get the Period Costume for Stage and Screen but between living in a somewhat out of the way area and a full time job (and being out of my bugdet) it hasn't really happened.  What I did manage to find is a picture of a petticoat for the last five years of the 19th century in Costume in Detail.  The bodice is fantastic in detail for copying - not at all what I would have expected.  The down side is that while I can now pattern it and it will fit under the dress I want to make - I can't decide how full the skirt should be.  Any idea with yours?????
   
  Sarah

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In a message dated 7/19/2006 6:25:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sarah_nucci@yahoo.com writes:

I can't  decide how full the skirt should be.  Any idea with  yours?????



How full is your outer skirt?  Make it a little narrower.  I make  almost all 
of my early 19th century skirts from "Cut of Women's Clothes," of  four 
lengths of 18" width, for a circumference is 72".  This might be  more narrow than 
what you are looking for.  Add widths to suit.
 
There is a drawing of a bodiced petticoat in Cunnington's "English Women's  
Clothing in the Nineteenth Century," made from an actual one in the 
Cunnington's  collection.  A photo of it is in their "History of Underclothes."   Both of 
these books were available from Dover--not sure if they still are.   Check 
their website.
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 13:08:44 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bodiced petticoats
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At 12:18 19/07/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 7/19/2006 6:25:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>sarah_nucci@yahoo.com writes:
>
>I can't  decide how full the skirt should be.  Any idea with  yours?????
>
>
>
>How full is your outer skirt?  Make it a little narrower.  I make  almost all
>of my early 19th century skirts from "Cut of Women's Clothes," of  four
>lengths of 18" width, for a circumference is 72".  This might 
>be  more narrow than
>what you are looking for.  Add widths to suit.
>
>There is a drawing of a bodiced petticoat in Cunnington's "English Women's
>Clothing in the Nineteenth Century," made from an actual one in the
>Cunnington's  collection.  A photo of it is in their "History of 
>Underclothes."   Both of
>these books were available from Dover--not sure if they still are.   Check
>their website.

An original skirt of 1805 in Hunnisett is measured at 90" hem so your 
petticoat needs to be narrower than that. That one is straight 
lengths. Others are cut narrower at the top. It very much depends on 
the shape of your outer skirt, and whether you plan on wearing the 
petticoat with other garments. I make mine with straight strips of 
fabric, as being less wasteful, which seems to work.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan doublet issues
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Robert Dorr wrote:
> 
> Oh, d'oh, I never thought of weight on the back...I can't do anything 
> with centre back, but, I may be able to tweak where the armhole meets 
> the back side seam. (I have a half finished one that I haven't finished 
> binding) I may just end up putting something at the front and extend the 
> button side of the doublet (buttonholes are already worked, else I'd 
> have added the material symmetrically)

It sounds like you only need room at the top.  You might add a strip all 
the way down the button side of center front, and then take it in at the 
side back seams at the waist to correct if it's too loose there.

Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler

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From: "Diane Maynard" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Elizabethan doublet issues
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I normally just lurk but, I have just had to go through this same problem
with a doublet I spent over 6 months hand beading for a gentleman that was
stationed in Iraq.  When he got back to the states, he had gained quite a
bit of weight through working out everyday.  Letting out my back side seams
as far as they would go was not enough.  I had some of the original material
left so I beaded that and inserted a section down each side of the front of
the doublet to make it a slashed doublet.  This left the front closure
centered and intact.  Don't know if this will work for you but, my friend
was thrilled with the result.  He ended up with a garnet beaded and slashed
doublet.  Now I just have to finish his matching pants.

Diane


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Thank you everyone for the suggestions, Diane, the idea of a beaded section 
down each front side, sounds absolutely lovely, but (you knew there was a 
'but' coming, didn't you?) the four doublets (black-with pearls, white-with 
all over embroidery, goldish wool, and green/black herringbone, are all 
heavily padstitched, and well, cutting and sewing through that, has already 
proven too much for my poor little sewing machine. But that is something to 
bear in mind for next time. And next time, I'll bribe someone to help me 
with the fittings.

I think the idea of putting a strip down the button side will do the job, 
and I have the scraps from construction so matching won't be a problem 
(always hang on to the cabbage for repairs, I at least got that right)

So again, thanks to everyone, I love this list.

Robert of Stonemarche 

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From: Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] help with dress from The Edwardian Modiste
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Hi everyone,  
   For people who own a copy of the Edwardian Modiste
I could use some help.  I want to make the dress from
page 236 and am having more trouble than I think I
should.  If anyone has made this dress could you
e-mail me privately so I can ask some questions about
the flounces.  Thanks.
                          Cassandra

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Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 13:15:23 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Framing vintage fashion plates
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Status: RO

Y'all,
Are there any other fashion plate collelctors out there?  I have some
wonderful handcolored vintage fashion plates and some ukiyo-e
(japanese woodblock prints, also hand-colored).  Does anyone in/near
Silicon Valley know of a place that can mat & frame these in buffer
papers w/ UV occlusive "glass"?
The old place I patronized changed ownership & I"m not happy.  I'm
looking for a new frameshop.  Yeah, there's a zillion around, but so
few are any good.  I'm hoping for a recommendation from someone who's
framed their fashion plates, rare prints, old photos & drawings, too.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Subject lines and headers
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Well, I don't like to post "me too"s, but I agree with you.

I'm subscribed to more than 50 lists. If I have to remember codes beyond the 
usual headers (for example, OT), I'll simply stop posting, and I'm guessing 
I'm not the only one in this case.

Proper subject lines, however, are the way to go.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 7:50 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: deleting posts and post headers


> I would find all the prefixes far too cumbersome, and frankly I
> don't think the majority on the list would use them; consequently it might
> confuse the list further. We can't get people to change subject headers, 
> let
> alone use prefixes. Can't tell you the number of times I've come in late 
> to
> a discussion, only to find what is being discussed has nothing remotely to
> do with the subject.
>
> This system works well for a disciplined group. I was on a writer's
> group that used this system effectively. Here? Sorry, no.
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: [h-cost] Straw Boater or Bowler Hat
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Status: RO

Would anybody know of a good source for a reasonably
priced Straw Boater or Bowler Hat?  

My father recently joined a barbershop group and would
like to have one (either or - doesn't matter).  He is
not dedicated enough to need one of the $100 ones that
all seem to be imported from Italy, but he definately
needs better than the $5 Halloween costume.  Under $50
would be my preferance.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straw Boater or Bowler Hat
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Dirty Billy hats!  His prices were reasonable the last time I ordered from 
him, and from time to time he carries a variety of straws.
Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "REBECCA BURCH" <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 10:18 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Straw Boater or Bowler Hat


> Would anybody know of a good source for a reasonably
> priced Straw Boater or Bowler Hat?
>
> My father recently joined a barbershop group and would
> like to have one (either or - doesn't matter).  He is
> not dedicated enough to need one of the $100 ones that
> all seem to be imported from Italy, but he definately
> needs better than the $5 Halloween costume.  Under $50
> would be my preferance.
>
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straw Boater or Bowler Hat
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

try Hatcrafters for the bowler
 
 
Hatcrafters.com
 
they have another site that is just straw hats. Lemme see if I have it  
still.....
 
 
Alas I don't. But if you call them and ask about it, I'm sure they'll tell  
you.
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Subject: [h-cost] German or Dutch headdress web page
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Hi all,
Sorry to bother you with a vague, rambling and inarticulate question, but  
I'm going nuts. I know I've seen a web page on how to make a certain style of  
headdress which is basically a white linen tube with the front edges flipped  
back to frame the face -- kind of like the Dutch folk costume style, but  
earlier. I can't seem to find the web page, and I can't even remember what the  
date/location was for the headdress. (I need it for a fantasy application, so it  
doesn't matter to me.) Does this ring a bell for any of you guys?
 
Thanks in advance!
Tea Rose
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] German or Dutch headdress web page
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> Sorry to bother you with a vague, rambling and inarticulate question, but
> I'm going nuts. I know I've seen a web page on how to make a certain style
of
> headdress which is basically a white linen tube with the front edges
flipped
> back to frame the face -- kind of like the Dutch folk costume style, but
> earlier. I can't seem to find the web page, and I can't even remember what
the
> date/location was for the headdress. (I need it for a fantasy application,
so it
> doesn't matter to me.) Does this ring a bell for any of you guys?

http://theflemishgirl.livejournal.com/
Yu could try asking here, go back one page you'll find a few pictures of a
flemish headdress.

I've made two headdresses of Cleves/Cologne:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/k/2cleveshat.htm
and a linen version:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/k/3cleves.htm
As mentioned I wasn't too happy with my final result, but that was as much
to do with feeling like the Flying Nun as not being satisfied with shape and
materials.

No idea if any of these are what you are after.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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I went in to the one on Laurel Ave. in San Carlos last week. Haven't had
anything done, but the guy seemed to know his stuff.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 1:15 PM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] Framing vintage fashion plates


Y'all,
Are there any other fashion plate collelctors out there?  I have some
wonderful handcolored vintage fashion plates and some ukiyo-e (japanese
woodblock prints, also hand-colored).  Does anyone in/near Silicon Valley
know of a place that can mat & frame these in buffer papers w/ UV occlusive
"glass"? The old place I patronized changed ownership & I"m not happy.  I'm
looking for a new frameshop.  Yeah, there's a zillion around, but so few are
any good.  I'm hoping for a recommendation from someone who's framed their
fashion plates, rare prints, old photos & drawings, too. --cin Cynthia
Barnes CinBarnes@gmail.com _______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Straw Boater or Bowler Hat
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 22:56:26 -0500
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I have found good deals on both kinds of hats on eBay.

Kim 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 8:18 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Straw Boater or Bowler Hat

Would anybody know of a good source for a reasonably priced Straw Boater or
Bowler Hat?  

My father recently joined a barbershop group and would like to have one
(either or - doesn't matter).  He is not dedicated enough to need one of the
$100 ones that all seem to be imported from Italy, but he definately needs
better than the $5 Halloween costume.  Under $50 would be my preferance.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] O.T. ish. Court proceedings at the Old Bailey site
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I accidentally came across this site when looking for something 
totally different. You can read court proceedings from the Old Bailey 
in London, dating back at least as far as the 18th century. Some are 
similar to what I have read in the Pennsylvania Gazette and the 
Virginia Gazette, some are totally irrelevant to anything we do, but 
there are some occupations that are costume related and reading the 
court records are fascinating.

http://www.oldbaileyonline.org/search/lists/labels/index_a.html

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] German or Dutch headdress web page
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Thanks, Michaela, that first link looks like it might be the right seamstress, if not the right web page.
 
And, by the way, the link from your linen Cleves page to the documentation page seems to be broken. 
 
Thanks!
Tea Rose
 

Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 19:31:49 +1200
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] German or Dutch headdress web page

http://theflemishgirl.livejournal.com/
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/k/2cleveshat.htm
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/k/3cleves.htm
No idea if any of these are what you are after.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Book inventory software question
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In February there was a discussion about using software about getting
information about published books into an inventory from websites.
One, mentioned by Kimiko, was Book Collector, where you enter the ISBN
number and the software does the research using amazon.com for
example. There was another program mentioned where you type in the
book title, but I didn't keep the information for some reason. Can
anyone tell me what that program is called? Are these two programs,
and any others that people have tried for both Mac and PC? I've been
trying to write down the information on my inventory of costume and
sewing books, but it's taking forever – three nights of work and I
only have about 75 of the books listed. And then I'll have to transfer
from hand-written forms to software.

TIA
LynnD

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060720011803.88868.qmail@web81409.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straw Boater or Bowler Hat
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 15:49:38 -0700
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I found some beauties on Ebay for under $35.  All manner of styles, 
including several from the teens.

angela

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "REBECCA BURCH" <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 6:18 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Straw Boater or Bowler Hat


> Would anybody know of a good source for a reasonably
> priced Straw Boater or Bowler Hat?
>
> My father recently joined a barbershop group and would
> like to have one (either or - doesn't matter).  He is
> not dedicated enough to need one of the $100 ones that
> all seem to be imported from Italy, but he definately
> needs better than the $5 Halloween costume.  Under $50
> would be my preferance.
>
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 16:32:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book inventory software question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi LynnD.
   
  I like Book Collector, and someday when I get close to the number of books for the paid version I will pay for it. That is getting close.
   
  And it does do Macs. This is from their web site.
  "This organizer software runs on Windows 98, ME, 2000 and XP and Apple Mac OS X 10.3 and higher."
   
  Unfortunately for those running Linux, they have no plans to have a compatible program.
   
  There are other programs, and one is actually an online library system. I don't remember the name of it, or where it is located, and can't seem to google it for some reason. Must not be using the right terms.
   
  Kimiko
   
  

Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
  In February there was a discussion about using software about getting
information about published books into an inventory from websites.
One, mentioned by Kimiko, was Book Collector, where you enter the ISBN
number and the software does the research using amazon.com for
example. There was another program mentioned where you type in the
book title, but I didn't keep the information for some reason. Can
anyone tell me what that program is called? Are these two programs,
and any others that people have tried for both Mac and PC? I've been
trying to write down the information on my inventory of costume and
sewing books, but it's taking forever – three nights of work and I
only have about 75 of the books listed. And then I'll have to transfer
from hand-written forms to software.

TIA
LynnD


 		
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book inventory software question
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I"m sharing this information with the group in the hopes that it will
interest or help someone else who is in the same point that I am -
I've bought two of the same Dover books twice because I didn't
remember I already had it. I'm also hoping someone has used some of
the software out there and can give me some feedback. If no one else
is interested, I'll take the conversation private.

Thanks for the input, Kimiko. I looked up Book Collector on your
second recommendation; they didn't show up on my first Google of the
topic. They look pretty good, but  I've already got 75 books written
up; with Book Collector's free 100 demo, but I may try it anyway.   I
checked into Readerware and that looks pretty interesting. They have a
bundle of 3 products, one for books, one for CDs and one for
DVDs/VHS/Laser disks, all for $75. I think it would pay for itself
fairly quickly. Collectorz.com Book Collector also has a 100 book demo
and has software for music and movies too. I didn't realize how much
there is out there.

If anyone has used any of these products, please let me know.

Thanks,
LynnD


On 7/20/06, Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi LynnD.
>
>   I like Book Collector, and someday when I get close to the number of books for the paid version I will pay for it. That is getting close.
>
>   And it does do Macs. This is from their web site.
>   "This organizer software runs on Windows 98, ME, 2000 and XP and Apple Mac OS X 10.3 and higher."
>
>   Unfortunately for those running Linux, they have no plans to have a compatible program.
>
>   There are other programs, and one is actually an online library system. I don't remember the name of it, or where it is located, and can't seem to google it for some reason. Must not be using the right terms.
>
>   Kimiko
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book inventory software question
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Hello~!

I use LibraryThing, and am quite pleased with it. So far it's been smooth and glitch-free. It's
easy to enter titles, and if you have obscure ones that won't cross-reference then it's easy to
manually add them. You can sort by "tags", which will help to locate by whatever subject you might
need at the time. 
www.librarything.com 

I paid for the lifetime unlimited account, and glad I did. The time saved is worth the money,
especially if it helps prevent buying duplicate books. 

::Linda::


-----Original Message-----
 On Behalf Of Lynn Downward

I"m sharing this information with the group in the hopes that it will
interest or help someone else who is in the same point that I am -
I've bought two of the same Dover books twice because I didn't
remember I already had it. I'm also hoping someone has used some of
the software out there and can give me some feedback. If no one else
is interested, I'll take the conversation private.



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul 21 00:11:10 2006
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Subject: [h-cost] Charging for sewing
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Dear Listees,
I have been asked by some folks to make some costumes for them. Problem is,
I've only worked in community theatre before and that doesn't pay anything
(about $300 per show). For those of you that do sewing as a business, how
much do you charge for sewing? Do you charge by the job or the hour? Any
help in this would be greatly appreciated.
Sharon C.
 

Young lovers seek perfection,
Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together
And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches

 

                    - "How To Make An American Quilt"

 
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charging for sewing
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 22:17:07 -0600
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I charge by the hour.  The problem is doing a proper estimate 
beforehand.  I almost always underestimate.

Sylrog

On Jul 20, 2006, at 10:10 PM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:

> Dear Listees,
> I have been asked by some folks to make some costumes for them. 
> Problem is,
> I've only worked in community theatre before and that doesn't pay 
> anything
> (about $300 per show). For those of you that do sewing as a business, 
> how
> much do you charge for sewing? Do you charge by the job or the hour? 
> Any
> help in this would be greatly appreciated.
> Sharon C.
>
>
> Young lovers seek perfection,
> Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together
> And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches
>
>
>
>                     - "How To Make An American Quilt"
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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I charge by the job, but my husband says I always undercharge.

Natalie

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Sylvia Rognstad 
  To: Historical Costume 
  Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 12:17 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charging for sewing


  I charge by the hour.  The problem is doing a proper estimate 
  beforehand.  I almost always underestimate.

  Sylrog

  On Jul 20, 2006, at 10:10 PM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:

  > Dear Listees,
  > I have been asked by some folks to make some costumes for them. 
  > Problem is,
  > I've only worked in community theatre before and that doesn't pay 
  > anything
  > (about $300 per show). For those of you that do sewing as a business, 
  > how
  > much do you charge for sewing? Do you charge by the job or the hour? 
  > Any
  > help in this would be greatly appreciated.
  > Sharon C.
  >
  >
  > Young lovers seek perfection,
  > Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together
  > And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches
  >
  >
  >
  >                     - "How To Make An American Quilt"
  >
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > h-costume mailing list
  > h-costume@mail.indra.com
  > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
  >

  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charging for sewing
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At 12:57 21/07/2006, you wrote:
>I charge by the job, but my husband says I always undercharge.
>
>Natalie
>
>   I charge by the hour.  The problem is doing a proper estimate
>   beforehand.  I almost always underestimate.
>
>   Sylrog
>
>   On Jul 20, 2006, at 10:10 PM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:
>
>   > Dear Listees,
>   > I have been asked by some folks to make some costumes for them. <snip>
>   > . For those of you that do sewing as a business,
>   > how
>   > much do you charge for sewing? Do you charge by the job or the hour?

It depends on the job - a Regency wedding dress (or any wedding 
clothes) costs more than an re-enactor Regency dress, as there will 
be no opportunity to change it if the customer wears it and finds 
something not quite comfortable.

If I charged by the hour, no-one could afford to buy from me, so I 
tend to charge by the job. For a first time, like the quilted 
petticoat I made recently, I set a price, and discovered I took 
longer than estimated, so I know that if I ever make another, I need 
to charge more.

BTW prices here are way higher than similar work in the U.S.

Suzi 

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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book inventory software question
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Linda, thank you for the suggestion. LibraryThing didn't show up on my
google search either, although I only really checked out the first
page of links. With the very short peek I took of the home page, it
looks really interesting. Next week, when my daughter the computer hog
is away, I hope to spend an evening or two really looking into several
of the companies suggested here.

Thank you all for your suggestions.

LynnD


On 7/20/06, Linda Rice <vmaa2@cox.net> wrote:
> Hello~!
>
> I use LibraryThing, and am quite pleased with it. So far it's been smooth and glitch-free. It's
> easy to enter titles, and if you have obscure ones that won't cross-reference then it's easy to
> manually add them. You can sort by "tags", which will help to locate by whatever subject you might
> need at the time.
> www.librarything.com
>
> I paid for the lifetime unlimited account, and glad I did. The time saved is worth the money,
> especially if it helps prevent buying duplicate books.
>
> ::Linda::
>
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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 08:49:46 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] German or Dutch headdress
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> I know I've seen a web page on how to make a certain style of
>headdress which is basically a white linen tube with the front edges flipped
>back to frame the face -- kind of like the Dutch folk costume style, but
>earlier. I can't seem to find the web page, and I can't even remember what the
>date/location was for the headdress. (I need it for a fantasy
application, so it
>doesn't matter to me.)

Tea Rose,
I'm sure alot of people will point you to 15th 16th c candlelight
masters, but since you were thinking of something more fantasy or
modern in style. Here's an idea.
Sounds like the "Dutch cap" that Irene Castle used to wear.  With her
husband Vernon Castle, she was an early 20th c ragtime era dance
teacher, performer, & actress until WWI started.

Here's the classic photo of her with husband Vernon on the wiki page:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vernon_and_Irene_Castle
Here's Ginger Rodgers costumed as Irene Castle
http://www.brightlightsfilm.com/37/verncastle.htm
In a glittery version:
http://www.eastman.org/ar/strip88/htmlsrc/m197701880402_ful.html
and her, by now signature hat, in a even sillier version:
http://www.tjhsst.edu/~emcconne/quarter%203/music.html

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charging for sewing
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I charge by the hour- $12.50 for straight sewing, $25 for hand work, and 
pattern drafting.  Then I go through and make a pretty accurate estimate of 
hours and come up with "what it's worth".  Usually I then negotiate a fee 
I'm willing to take for the straight stuff.  I don't negotiate on hand work 
(beading, etc).  If folks want that, then they have to pay for it.

I too come from community & regional theater, where costumers are not paid 
nearly enough (stipends range from $1200-2000, but I'm in California).  The 
problem as I see it is the genesis of the craft.  The public still thinks of 
it as "womans' work."  I constantly run into people who upon hearing that I 
sew, say something like "Oh, can you make me a dress?" rapidly followed up 
with how much cheaper it must be to get something made by "a friend." 
Anyone else notice how quickly acquantanceship turns to friendship when 
folks want a discount :)  I quickly dissilusion them, letting them know hand 
made clothes are more akin to couture than discount ready to wear.

It's a process, but I think politely pointing out the craftsmanship and the 
one-of-a-kind aspect quickly justifies the pricing in people's minds.  Most 
decide they cant' afford it, but I'm cool with that too.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 9:10 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Charging for sewing


> Dear Listees,
> I have been asked by some folks to make some costumes for them. Problem 
> is,
> I've only worked in community theatre before and that doesn't pay anything
> (about $300 per show). For those of you that do sewing as a business, how
> much do you charge for sewing? Do you charge by the job or the hour? Any
> help in this would be greatly appreciated.
> Sharon C.
>
>
> Young lovers seek perfection,
> Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together
> And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches
>
>
>
>                    - "How To Make An American Quilt"
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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I have a program on my palm pilot for this.  I have the 02 version of 
Bookshelf, which I purchased on Handango for about $15.  It will hold 
limitless books, and has a pretty thorough little data base, including 
title, author, ISBN no, edition, publisher, etc.   It does sorts by author 
as well as title.

afl
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 5:16 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book inventory software question


> I"m sharing this information with the group in the hopes that it will
> interest or help someone else who is in the same point that I am -
> I've bought two of the same Dover books twice because I didn't
> remember I already had it. I'm also hoping someone has used some of
> the software out there and can give me some feedback. If no one else
> is interested, I'll take the conversation private.
>
> Thanks for the input, Kimiko. I looked up Book Collector on your
> second recommendation; they didn't show up on my first Google of the
> topic. They look pretty good, but  I've already got 75 books written
> up; with Book Collector's free 100 demo, but I may try it anyway.   I
> checked into Readerware and that looks pretty interesting. They have a
> bundle of 3 products, one for books, one for CDs and one for
> DVDs/VHS/Laser disks, all for $75. I think it would pay for itself
> fairly quickly. Collectorz.com Book Collector also has a 100 book demo
> and has software for music and movies too. I didn't realize how much
> there is out there.
>
> If anyone has used any of these products, please let me know.
>
> Thanks,
> LynnD
>
>
> On 7/20/06, Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Hi LynnD.
>>
>>   I like Book Collector, and someday when I get close to the number of 
>> books for the paid version I will pay for it. That is getting close.
>>
>>   And it does do Macs. This is from their web site.
>>   "This organizer software runs on Windows 98, ME, 2000 and XP and Apple 
>> Mac OS X 10.3 and higher."
>>
>>   Unfortunately for those running Linux, they have no plans to have a 
>> compatible program.
>>
>>   There are other programs, and one is actually an online library system. 
>> I don't remember the name of it, or where it is located, and can't seem 
>> to google it for some reason. Must not be using the right terms.
>>
>>   Kimiko
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book inventory software question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Lynn,  I have to agree on the vote for LibraryThing.com.  I'd been hearing about it from several friends and after the expensive re-purchasing of 2 research books the weekend before the H-Cost discussion, went in and took the plunge to actually do something with my books.
 
I paid for a lifetime membership, and am almost 3/4 of the way done inputting my books, and working on adding the tags to cross-reference them.  You can use the ISBN number, the title or the author's name to input the items, which can save a lot of time.
 
You can also look at other people's opinions on the books by searching under the tags you might use to identify the book, looking for reviews, or checking out profiles of people who have similar books in common.  I can also add notes on the book itself, say if it is one of my sf/f books-if it is signed by the author/artist.
 
Eventually, say after this summer season is over, I hope to look up some of the books on my ILL list to see who I know might own one, to ask for a review before using up that slot or paying the money.  That way I can do the research on the other regional areas I need for my Journeyman Guild projects. (OBC)
 
Angharat
(wolfcat)
 
 
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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 15:11:29 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charging for sewing
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I am not a professional seamstress by any means. My forte is gloves.

But upon occasion a theater buddy will tap me to alter very special
pieces and for those I do charge hourly. I do not announce that my
rate is hourly. I use it to calculate the set fee.

Now mind you, for web work and development of applications I charge
75/hr. There is no way in heck I would charge that for what I do. I
do not do beading or embroidery. THAT stuff is worth the higher
rates. My stuff is more along the lines of 12/hr.

Gloves ... I do not take commissions for those for pay or from
anyone I do not know. But if I did, I could not sell a pair for less
than 200/pr.

The last one was a wedding gown from the 30's. It was OMG gorgeous.
The silk was heavy and thick, and the only reason why I said yes.
Had it been a very fine silk I would have said no cause it would not
have held up.

The first thing I had to do was sit with the dress to figure it all
out so I told her that there was an initial consultation charge of
50.00 to spend a day with the dress to assess if I can even work
with it. This involved talking to her, seeing her in it as is,
seeing what she wanted it to look like afterwards, then testing the
seams. Yes, testing the seams. I needed to see if the dress had been
altered before and if so what thread they used.

It had been altered before and they used cotton instead of silk
thread. The seams popped immediatly. Thankfully the cotton thread
was of a darker color than the silk thread so it was easy to find.

I do not announce what the hourly rate is. I use it as a calculation
of the cost and give a set price based on it.

Now when I was done she decided to give me an extra 100 on top of
the total fee cause she said that other person she went to
previously wanted 3 times what I charged her and I did it in half
the time.

I know why that person did that, they were anticipating that all the
seams were going to have to be redone thus taking the entire dress
apart. So yeah, had I had to do that, my price would have been the
same as the other seamstress. But I did not want to tell her that.
It was a one time gig. A wedding dress for her wedding. :)


> ----- Original Message -----
>
> Dear Listees,
> I have been asked by some folks to make some costumes for them.
> Problem is,I've only worked in community theatre before and that
> doesn't pay anything (about $300 per show). For those of you that
> sewing as a do business, how much do you charge for sewing?
> Do you charge by the job or the hour? Any help in this
> would be greatly appreciated.
> Sharon C.
>
>

Chiara Francesca
Ansteorra

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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charging for sewing
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I am doing so much less custom work than I used to, the kids take up
too many of my brain cells.  My sewing is very part time at the
moment.

I usually charge an initial $25 consultation fee to sit down and talk
with the client about the project (either in person or by email).
This can be applied to the final project fee and is not refundable.
When I first started doing weddings I had so many people either make
appointments and just not show up or meet with me once and never
return, the fee helps weed out the casual inquiries.

I then try and figure out a general project fee based on past
experience.  My husband keeps telling me I charge way too little.  I
do find I make better income off of undergarments than gowns, but
gowns are so much more fun.

Basic balldresses start at $350 for labor only, fancy trimming or
beadwork is added by the hour at $25-50.  I state that if the estimate
is off by more than a certain percentage I will get their approval
before proceeding.

There is also the "I really don't want to do this" factor, for
projects I am not enthused about I might quote a huge price and hope
they'll just go away.

Repair work or restoration/conservation is done by the hour.  I try
and avoid alterations like the plague.  My mother had a booming
alteration business in South Carolina and she charged by the hour for
wedding dress alterations especially, but had a chart she had made up
of what various alterations typically cost that she had worked out
from past experience.

Katy

On 7/21/06, Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio <chiara@io.com> wrote:
> I am not a professional seamstress by any means. My forte is gloves.
>
> But upon occasion a theater buddy will tap me to alter very special
> pieces and for those I do charge hourly. I do not announce that my
> rate is hourly. I use it to calculate the set fee.
>
> Now mind you, for web work and development of applications I charge
> 75/hr. There is no way in heck I would charge that for what I do. I
> do not do beading or embroidery. THAT stuff is worth the higher
> rates. My stuff is more along the lines of 12/hr.
>
> Gloves ... I do not take commissions for those for pay or from
> anyone I do not know. But if I did, I could not sell a pair for less
> than 200/pr.
>
> The last one was a wedding gown from the 30's. It was OMG gorgeous.
> The silk was heavy and thick, and the only reason why I said yes.
> Had it been a very fine silk I would have said no cause it would not
> have held up.
>
> The first thing I had to do was sit with the dress to figure it all
> out so I told her that there was an initial consultation charge of
> 50.00 to spend a day with the dress to assess if I can even work
> with it. This involved talking to her, seeing her in it as is,
> seeing what she wanted it to look like afterwards, then testing the
> seams. Yes, testing the seams. I needed to see if the dress had been
> altered before and if so what thread they used.
>
> It had been altered before and they used cotton instead of silk
> thread. The seams popped immediatly. Thankfully the cotton thread
> was of a darker color than the silk thread so it was easy to find.
>
> I do not announce what the hourly rate is. I use it as a calculation
> of the cost and give a set price based on it.
>
> Now when I was done she decided to give me an extra 100 on top of
> the total fee cause she said that other person she went to
> previously wanted 3 times what I charged her and I did it in half
> the time.
>
> I know why that person did that, they were anticipating that all the
> seams were going to have to be redone thus taking the entire dress
> apart. So yeah, had I had to do that, my price would have been the
> same as the other seamstress. But I did not want to tell her that.
> It was a one time gig. A wedding dress for her wedding. :)
>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> > Dear Listees,
> > I have been asked by some folks to make some costumes for them.
> > Problem is,I've only worked in community theatre before and that
> > doesn't pay anything (about $300 per show). For those of you that
> > sewing as a do business, how much do you charge for sewing?
> > Do you charge by the job or the hour? Any help in this
> > would be greatly appreciated.
> > Sharon C.
> >
> >
>
> Chiara Francesca
> Ansteorra
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Charging for sewing
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 14:14:11 -0700
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Status: RO

I'm in CA, too, But my group's budget usually ran approx. $2500 per show, so
it was essentially gas money. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of H_Costume
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 11:24 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charging for sewing


I charge by the hour- $12.50 for straight sewing, $25 for hand work, and 
pattern drafting.  Then I go through and make a pretty accurate estimate of 
hours and come up with "what it's worth".  Usually I then negotiate a fee 
I'm willing to take for the straight stuff.  I don't negotiate on hand work 
(beading, etc).  If folks want that, then they have to pay for it.

I too come from community & regional theater, where costumers are not paid 
nearly enough (stipends range from $1200-2000, but I'm in California).  The 
problem as I see it is the genesis of the craft.  The public still thinks of

it as "womans' work."  I constantly run into people who upon hearing that I 
sew, say something like "Oh, can you make me a dress?" rapidly followed up 
with how much cheaper it must be to get something made by "a friend." 
Anyone else notice how quickly acquantanceship turns to friendship when 
folks want a discount :)  I quickly dissilusion them, letting them know hand

made clothes are more akin to couture than discount ready to wear.

It's a process, but I think politely pointing out the craftsmanship and the 
one-of-a-kind aspect quickly justifies the pricing in people's minds.  Most 
decide they cant' afford it, but I'm cool with that too.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 9:10 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Charging for sewing


> Dear Listees,
> I have been asked by some folks to make some costumes for them. 
> Problem
> is,
> I've only worked in community theatre before and that doesn't pay anything
> (about $300 per show). For those of you that do sewing as a business, how
> much do you charge for sewing? Do you charge by the job or the hour? Any
> help in this would be greatly appreciated.
> Sharon C.
>
>
> Young lovers seek perfection,
> Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together
> And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches
>
>
>
>                    - "How To Make An American Quilt"
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Thank you to all who have responded. This gives me an idea of how to figure
pricing.
Sharon
 

Young lovers seek perfection,
Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together
And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches

 

                    - "How To Make An American Quilt"

 
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I charge by the job. If I acquire the materials myself, I can usually get a 
better discount than the person who wants the costume.
Since for a long time I always underestimated the amount of time involved, I 
finally decided to go with a percentage system. I add 33% to material cost 
for a normal job. If they want something in less than a month I add another 
15% expedite fee.
But your customer must consider the complexity of the costume you are 
making. For instance, I once sewed 1240 pearls on a man's doublet.
For wedding dresses, a lot of designers add 65-75% to their costs just 
because the more complex dresses take a lot of detailed hand work. One of 
the wedding dresses I made had to have German lace hand sewn to the edge of 
a cathedral length train and aprox 300 pearls sewn on the bodice. So I can 
certainly see the point.



Catalina
nunca sin mi vino


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I think that everyone charges for the job, but it is determined by the 
cost of the labor, so you have to figure out first how much you want to 
make per hour and then try to come up with a good estimate of the time. 
   If 33% sounds like you are getting a good return for your labor, 
that's great.  It doesn't sound like enough to me, since the labor is 
usually a lot more costly than the materials, but that depends 
obviously on your materials.  I have a website where I make and sell 
gothic and belly dance costumes and clothing.  I can buy the fabric in 
bulk at wholesale prices so I might pay $5-20 on materials but charge 
$50-100 for the garment.  On the other hand, if I'm making custom 
clothing and/or costumes and have to buy expensive brocades, velvets, 
etc., then I may have to spend $50-100 on materials, although it would 
seem that the labor for such a garment would also be time consuming.  I 
try to make $20 per hour across the board, but after doing this for 
awhile, I still tend to underestimate.  My problem if that for most of 
my career, I have been making theatrical costumes in professional 
costume shops, so I never had to keep track of how long it took to make 
something, plus one is always working on a bunch of things at the same 
time.  It's only recently that I have started to do sewing out of my 
home.

Sylrog

On Jul 22, 2006, at 7:57 AM, Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez 
wrote:

> I charge by the job. If I acquire the materials myself, I can usually 
> get a better discount than the person who wants the costume.
> Since for a long time I always underestimated the amount of time 
> involved, I finally decided to go with a percentage system. I add 33% 
> to material cost for a normal job. If they want something in less than 
> a month I add another 15% expedite fee.
> But your customer must consider the complexity of the costume you are 
> making. For instance, I once sewed 1240 pearls on a man's doublet.
> For wedding dresses, a lot of designers add 65-75% to their costs just 
> because the more complex dresses take a lot of detailed hand work. One 
> of the wedding dresses I made had to have German lace hand sewn to the 
> edge of a cathedral length train and aprox 300 pearls sewn on the 
> bodice. So I can certainly see the point.
>
>
>
> Catalina
> nunca sin mi vino
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Flat Caps- was there a response in there?
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I am still looking for a pattern for a flat cap that would end up looking 
like the one in the 1535 portrait of Dona Ana Mauriquez.

http://www.artnet.com/Images/magazine/features/jeromack/jeromack10-31-2s.jpg


Catalina
nunca sin mi vino


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From: "HAGIOS FENUM" <hagiosfenum@prtc.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] bodiced petticoats
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2006 11:12:46 -0400
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Howdy,

I am a historic reenactor and what I know about sewing is the same that
anyone of you out there may know about Christopher Columbus contribution to
the Social Security. But I have a BIGGGGG problem: I want to build, sew,
make, whatever, my own military uniform for the 1797 Spanish colonial times.
Is there any help or guides from were to start? Or should I go fishing or
golf??

Please help me with this. I really want to properly reenact.
Thank you all.
JP

-----Original Message-----
From: Sarah Nucci [mailto:sarah_nucci@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 6:23 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] bodiced petticoats

I'm trying to get the Period Costume for Stage and Screen but between living
in a somewhat out of the way area and a full time job (and being out of my
bugdet) it hasn't really happened.  What I did manage to find is a picture
of a petticoat for the last five years of the 19th century in Costume in
Detail.  The bodice is fantastic in detail for copying - not at all what I
would have expected.  The down side is that while I can now pattern it and
it will fit under the dress I want to make - I can't decide how full the
skirt should be.  Any idea with yours?????
   
  Sarah

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flat Caps- was there a response in there?
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Quoting Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez
<ladycatalina@hotmail.com>:

>
> I am still looking for a pattern for a flat cap that would end up 
> looking like the one in the 1535 portrait of Dona Ana Mauriquez.
>
> http://www.artnet.com/Images/magazine/features/jeromack/jeromack10-31-2s.jpg
>
>

*cool* painting!  I've never seen that one before.

Anyway, best source for hat patterns that I know of is Lynn McMasters
http://lynnmcmasters.com/patterns.html

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: sewing for re-enactment  [was:bodiced petticoats]
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HAGIOS FENUM wrote:

> Howdy,
> 
> I am a historic reenactor and what I know about sewing is the same that
> anyone of you out there may know about Christopher Columbus contribution to
> the Social Security. But I have a BIGGGGG problem: I want to build, sew,
> make, whatever, my own military uniform for the 1797 Spanish colonial times.
> Is there any help or guides from were to start? 


I would suggest you start with a sewing class and learn the basics of 
how to read a pattern, thread a sewing machine, and construct simple 
garments. Classes are often offered through sewing/fabric shops and 
community center or adult ed programs. Ask around.

There are undoubtedly people in your re-enactment group who already make 
their own costumes. Find them, and ask for help in selecting books, 
patterns, and materials suitable for your project.  If they don't 
already have 'stitch-n-bitch' meetings where you can all sit around 
sewing one evening a month, see about starting one.



Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Flat Cap--when did they fall out of fashion?
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Hi
So just when did the Flat Cap cease to be worn? In England? The 
Americas? I'm looking for an end date range...
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flat Cap--when did they fall out of fashion?
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cahuff wrote:

> Hi
> So just when did the Flat Cap cease to be worn? In England? The 
> Americas? I'm looking for an end date range...
> Ta

Shortly after 1600. The last portraits I've seen it on were about 1620, 
and usually on lower-class people.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flat Caps- was there a response in there?
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In a message dated 7/22/2006 12:38:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:

I am  still looking for a pattern for a flat cap that would end up 
> looking  like the one in the 1535 portrait of Dona Ana  Mauriquez.



**************************
 
It's a donut [the brim] with a circle sewn to the inside "hole".  To  get the 
brim to stand up a bit on one side you can wire the outside, and the  whole 
brim should be inner-lined with something stiff. Heavy buckram is the  usual 
candidate for this nowadays. It can be steamed into shape. 
You can also get all manipulative and take out a small wedge of the circle  
of the brim at the place where you want it to turn up. You can get it just 
right  by doing a mock up in cardboard, starting with the circle, splitting it 
where  the turn up is to be and overlapping the cardboard at the spit til it 
looks as  you desire. Now of course you don't have a circle any more and a seam 
must go  there, but this can be covered up with trim or a feather and if the hat 
is  velvet, it will practically disappear anyway.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Book software
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At 01:00 PM 7/21/2006, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

We don't use a specific book software. We use 
Access. I know a lot of people aren't fond of it. 
But, by having a piece of software called 
Documents to Go on our PDA's we can export a list 
of books from the Access database to the PDA's 
including whatever fields we want and voila! An 
easily carried list of every book in our collection.

We know what you mean by buying duplicates. We 
used to do that a lot. Before we had the PDA's we 
had to print out the book list and put it in a 
notebook. We have over 12,000 books in our 
collection (no, not all, or even most, costume 
books) that notebook was very heavy.

We also use our PDA's to keep lists of 
CDs/Records and DVDs as well as a few other things.

Pierre

>In February there was a discussion about using software about getting
>information about published books into an inventory from websites.
>One, mentioned by Kimiko, was Book Collector, where you enter the ISBN
>number and the software does the research using amazon.com for
>example. There was another program mentioned where you type in the
>book title, but I didn't keep the information for some reason. Can
>anyone tell me what that program is called? Are these two programs,
>and any others that people have tried for both Mac and PC? I've been
>trying to write down the information on my inventory of costume and
>sewing books, but it's taking forever ­ three nights of work and I
>only have about 75 of the books listed. And then I'll have to transfer
>from hand-written forms to software.
>
>TIA
>LynnD

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  



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From: "Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez" <ladycatalina@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2006 00:38:40 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] 1797 Spanish Military
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start here;
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/18thlinks.htm#Military%20Dress

http://www.war-art.com/ramilies.htm

http://www.mtsu.edu/~kesmith/TNARCHNET/Pubs/milcloth.html

http://www.artifacts.org/Artifacts.htm

Catalina
nunca sin mi vino


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Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2006 20:33:26 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Flat Caps- was there a response in there?
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Status: RO

You can try Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1550- 1620 (I am not sure of
the dates). She has a flat cap from the grave of one of the Medicis. You
could use that and embellish as needed. Men's and women's hats were pretty
much the same for this style.
Regards-
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2006 12:38 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flat Caps- was there a response in there?


Quoting Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez
<ladycatalina@hotmail.com>:

>
> I am still looking for a pattern for a flat cap that would end up
> looking like the one in the 1535 portrait of Dona Ana Mauriquez.
>
>
http://www.artnet.com/Images/magazine/features/jeromack/jeromack10-31-2s.jpg
>
>

*cool* painting!  I've never seen that one before.

Anyway, best source for hat patterns that I know of is Lynn McMasters
http://lynnmcmasters.com/patterns.html

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Flat Caps- was there a response in there?
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Status: RO

The basic flat cap pattern I use is 3 circles with centers removed (for the
brim and underneath part, kind of like a doughnut shape) and one solid
circle for the top. From what I could see of the picture , the cap you want
seems to turn up on the brim.(?) If so, take wedges out of the 3 
doughnuts so they don't lie flat, but make a 3-D shape, like a lampshade.
Make sure you interface well, so it doesn't droop. Does this help?
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2006 9:38 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flat Caps- was there a response in there?


Quoting Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez
<ladycatalina@hotmail.com>:

>
> I am still looking for a pattern for a flat cap that would end up
> looking like the one in the 1535 portrait of Dona Ana Mauriquez.
>
> http://www.artnet.com/Images/magazine/features/jeromack/jeromack10-31-
> 2s.jpg
>
>

*cool* painting!  I've never seen that one before.

Anyway, best source for hat patterns that I know of is Lynn McMasters
http://lynnmcmasters.com/patterns.html

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] Tipping Solution
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I have a beginners' class making stays, and am nearly ready to cut lengths of steel boning.  I find that my tipping solution ( for dipping the ends of the steel to prevent rust) has thickened to the point of unusability.  Does anyone have suggestions for thinning the tipping solution?

Thanks

Jane in Northern Virginia
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  "I mostly just made best use of any fabric on hand;) But I have patterned all
mine up if there is any interest?"

I'm very interested in Cranach's gowns and I've been wondering about the chemise as well. Is for ex. the front (belly) white part under the lacing a part of the chemise as well? 
  The chemise is problably very simple, as Michaela said - can you give me some advice on the size, M.? (How long and wide etc.)
   
  Zuzana

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tipping Solution
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2006 13:23:27 -0400
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I think I used lighter fluid to do that.

Kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jane Pease" <jmdpease@att.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 11:33 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Tipping Solution


>I have a beginners' class making stays, and am nearly ready to cut lengths 
>of steel boning.  I find that my tipping solution ( for dipping the ends of 
>the steel to prevent rust) has thickened to the point of unusability.  Does 
>anyone have suggestions for thinning the tipping solution?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jane in Northern Virginia
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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jane p, 
please contact me off list....this is paige
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Subject: [h-cost] 1901 bathing suit event
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The Hyde Street Pier Living History Players are doing their 1901 bathing 
suit event Saturday, August 12th at the San Francisco Maritime National 
Historical Park.  At least one of us will be wearing a bathing suit, and 
the rest of us will be wearing either c.1901 Summer clothes or (non-Navy) 
c.1901 sailor clothes.

Everyone is invited to come down in c.1901 costume and splash with us in 
the bay or watch us splash.  Period-looking picnic lunches are welcome, as 
are games which can be played on our narrow sloping beach.  Low tide will 
be at 8:18am, and high tide will be at 3:08pm.  The average water 
temperature is 55 degrees, Fahrenheit.

Parking is truly awful, so carpool or use public transit whenever 
possible.  Local restaurants are plentiful, and range in price from 
McDonalds and In-N-Out Burger to more than I can afford.  There is no 
admission fee to the pier itself, and costumed living history participants 
may freely visit the ships for which there normally is a fee.  Please fill 
out a volunteer form at the volunteer office, if you haven't already done 
this, so the park can count your hours as donations to us.

For details, contact me off-list.

kayta@funstuft.com

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold Award
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Saw this posted on another list, thought it interesting and perhaps
relevant to some on this list, and so here it is.

Originally posted on CAID mailing list by Scott Jaqua
(hagerson@pacbell.net):

> I am bored and doing a little lunch hour surfing. In a round about way
> I came across some grants, funds and awards for historical research.
> And this one caught my eye. I am thinking that if someone really
> wanted to take the art of historic dress to the next level, then here
> is a way to do it.
>
> The Janet Arnold Award from the Society of Antiquaries of London
>
> http://www.sal.org.uk/grants/janetarnold.php
>
> "Janet Arnold (1932 *– *1998) made provision for the
> establishment of this award in order to further in-depth study of
> Western dress. Applicants must be able to demonstrate that they wish to
> pursue a particular piece of original research based on items of dress
> or their remains, with a view to eventually disseminating knowledge
> gained with the award through publication, display, cataloguing,
> teaching or through practical use in conservation or accurate
> reproduction. The amount of money for distribution in any one year will
> not exceed £4000.
>
> The award may be used to assist with research costs, including travel,
> accommodation and any incidental expenses such as purchase of
> photographs or slides..........."
>
> Scott B Jaqua
> Hagerson Forge
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Subject: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
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Hi, 
  I've never been much interested in trousers in the middle ages, so I know only a few about it. I'm now talking about the clothing of peasants - I've recently seen a picture of a complicated fastening system which should have been historically accurate. Here it is:
  http://drakkaria.com/obchod/fotky/341b.jpg
  http://drakkaria.com/obchod/fotky/2021b.jpg
  I have absolutely no clue whether it is right or wrong. Does someone know? What kind of fastening was used then?
   
  Thanks, Zuzana

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
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At 11:56 24/07/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>   I've never been much interested in trousers in the middle ages, 
> so I know only a few about it. I'm now talking about the clothing 
> of peasants - I've recently seen a picture of a complicated 
> fastening system which should have been historically accurate. Here it is:
>   http://drakkaria.com/obchod/fotky/341b.jpg
>   http://drakkaria.com/obchod/fotky/2021b.jpg
>   I have absolutely no clue whether it is right or wrong. Does 
> someone know? What kind of fastening was used then?
>
>   Thanks, Zuzana


It is probable that the trousers in the pictures are very late 
18th  or early 19th century. I have never seen men's trousers laced 
up the front, and I wonder if these are in fact nor original, but a 
reproduction. The pairs in the first picture have similar fastenings 
to original trousers/trowsers I have seen from about 1815, although I 
have never seen them with draw strings.Where do the pictures come 
from? That might help to date them.

Incidentally, I would have said that trousers, as we recognise them 
today, were not much worn in medieval times. They mostly wore hose, 
either two separate legs tied to a belt or to the doublet, or a pair 
of joined hose, fastened in the same way. These were frequently cut 
on the cross in order to make them fit fairly tightly.

Suzi

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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I agree with Suzi that these are meant to replicate late 18th or 19th 
century fall-front trousers.  What place and time are you researching? 
11th-century Anglo-Saxon men wore different leg coverings than 
15th-century men in Italy, but both are from the middle ages.

Melanie Schuessler


Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
 > Hi, I've never been much interested in trousers in the middle ages,
 > so I know only a few about it. I'm now talking about the clothing of
 > peasants - I've recently seen a picture of a complicated fastening
 > system which should have been historically accurate. Here it is:
 > http://drakkaria.com/obchod/fotky/341b.jpg
 > http://drakkaria.com/obchod/fotky/2021b.jpg I have absolutely no clue
 > whether it is right or wrong. Does someone know? What kind of
 > fastening was used then?
 >
 > Thanks, Zuzana
 >
 > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!?
 > Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
 > http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________
 >  h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com
 > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 >



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Jane Pease wrote:
 > I have a beginners' class making stays, and am nearly ready to cut
 > lengths of steel boning.  I find that my tipping solution ( for
 > dipping the ends of the steel to prevent rust) has thickened to the
 > point of unusability.  Does anyone have suggestions for thinning the
 > tipping solution?

If I'm not mistaken, someone in the costume shop where I used to work 
used water to thin it.  I remember being extremely skeptical that this 
would work, but it did.

Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: [h-cost] St Louis Pirate Festival
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Does anybody know more about this? I've found their website, but can't 
seem to find any pictures or reviews.


stlpiratefest.com


Dawn


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Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2006 10:04:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The link with the trousers was from an on-line shop selling armour, clothes and such. But it is VERY amateur-like, most of the clothes are rather fantasy than historical. But I just saw that complicated fall-down system and didn't know anything about it, so I thought I should ask. I know 2 kinds of trousers (hosen), probably the two Suzi Clarke mentioned. I guess both are available at historic enterprises:
  http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=6
  As I said, I've never paid much attention to the leg wear, I knew only that very tight hosen were worn during the later middle ages. I thought peasants and working people wore something more comfortable, but - now after re-searching in all my pictures- it seems I was wrong... oops, I really have a gap on that topic... 
   
  I'm interested in 12-14c middle and western Europe, like Anglo-Saxon and around. Not southern Europe like Spain and Italy.
  

Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
  I agree with Suzi that these are meant to replicate late 18th or 19th 
century fall-front trousers. What place and time are you researching? 
11th-century Anglo-Saxon men wore different leg coverings than 
15th-century men in Italy, but both are from the middle ages.

Melanie Schuessler


Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Hi, I've never been much interested in trousers in the middle ages,
> so I know only a few about it. I'm now talking about the clothing of
> peasants - I've recently seen a picture of a complicated fastening
> system which should have been historically accurate. Here it is:
> http://drakkaria.com/obchod/fotky/341b.jpg
> http://drakkaria.com/obchod/fotky/2021b.jpg I have absolutely no clue
> whether it is right or wrong. Does someone know? What kind of
> fastening was used then?
>
> Thanks, Zuzana
>
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Book software
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Thanks for the input, Pierre. I've had several PDAs in the past few
years, and for some reason just putting batteries in them seemed to
deplete them so I just gave up and went back to the reliable datebook
and pen with Post-it flags on important dates. Once I get the books
listed, I'll be happy to carry my list, no matter how heavy it gets.
EndNote is just too bulky for my history and costume books, and it
only links to PubMed, a medical listing, so there's no automatic
downloading for me.

The search continues after Costume College when I'm going to play with
the free downloads and see which will be the best. As so often
happens, I waited too long; I really wanted the library before CC, not
after. Sigh...

LynnD

On 7/22/06, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net> wrote:
> At 01:00 PM 7/21/2006, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
> We don't use a specific book software. We use
> Access. I know a lot of people aren't fond of it.
> But, by having a piece of software called
> Documents to Go on our PDA's we can export a list
> of books from the Access database to the PDA's
> including whatever fields we want and voila! An
> easily carried list of every book in our collection.
>
> We know what you mean by buying duplicates. We
> used to do that a lot. Before we had the PDA's we
> had to print out the book list and put it in a
> notebook. We have over 12,000 books in our
> collection (no, not all, or even most, costume
> books) that notebook was very heavy.
>
> We also use our PDA's to keep lists of
> CDs/Records and DVDs as well as a few other things.
>
> Pierre
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] bodiced petticoats
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> The down 
> side is that while I can now pattern it and it will fit under 
> the dress I want to make - I can't decide how full the skirt 
> should be.  Any idea with yours?????


I'm starting from the skirt pattern of the dress I'm going to make (from  _Moden 1790-1840_ by Ellen Andersen, can't remember the page...am traveling right now and don't have access to my library). I haven't decided what percentage of the width to use...since I'm making a c1820 dress, I'm thinking of making the petticoat pretty full - at least 3/4 of the width of the actual dress' skirt.
	Hope that helps a little, sorry for the delay in responding,
		-sunny

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
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At 18:04 24/07/2006, you wrote:
>The link with the trousers was from an on-line shop selling armour, 
>clothes and such. But it is VERY amateur-like, most of the clothes 
>are rather fantasy than historical. But I just saw that complicated 
>fall-down system and didn't know anything about it, so I thought I 
>should ask. I know 2 kinds of trousers (hosen), probably the two 
>Suzi Clarke mentioned. I guess both are available at historic enterprises:
>   http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=6
>   As I said, I've never paid much attention to the leg wear, I knew 
> only that very tight hosen were worn during the later middle ages. 
> I thought peasants and working people wore something more 
> comfortable, but - now after re-searching in all my pictures- it 
> seems I was wrong... oops, I really have a gap on that topic...
>
>   I'm interested in 12-14c middle and western Europe, like 
> Anglo-Saxon and around. Not southern Europe like Spain and Italy.
>


Gwen at Historic Enterprises has a good reputation in the Living 
History world in England. And her things always look good. So yes, I 
think that should be what you are looking for.

Suzi

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Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2006 12:35:17 -0500
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This one in September?
http://stlpiratefest.com/index2.shtml

Pirate webring
http://stlpiratefest.com/links.shtml

-----Original Message-----
Does anybody know more about this? I've found their website, but can't 
seem to find any pictures or reviews.


stlpiratefest.com


Dawn


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2006 13:11:20 -0500
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Status: RO

Depends on what you mean by tight. More like close fitting. Pattern cut on
the bias of the fabric.
http://www.greydragon.org/library/underwear3.html
http://www.larp.com/midgard/hosen.htm

Though you will find some sort of "pants" prior to the middle ages in
Northern Europe but you will find that the hosen (for some reason unknown to
me) was popular in that region during the middle ages.

-----Original Message-----
  As I said, I've never paid much attention to the leg wear, I knew only
that very tight hosen were worn during the later middle ages. I thought
peasants and working people wore something more comfortable, but - now after
re-searching in all my pictures- it seems I was wrong... oops, I really have
a gap on that topic...

  I'm interested in 12-14c middle and western Europe, like Anglo-Saxon and
around. Not southern Europe like Spain and Italy.



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From: Ed Walton <recon36@airmail.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2006 09:46:42 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Suzi is correct. Those trousers are bogus and relatively modern,  
basically  combining broadfall front 18th century overalls  
(panataloons) with a non-correct lace up front. Probably somebody  
made a pair of overalls like this with a broadfall front, but I don't  
think I've ever seen them depicted. Before 1800 "trousers" were  
mainly worn by ship's crews and were nothing like these, except  
possibly for the drawstring. Trousers ended at or right below the  
knee and were very wide legged. Roman soldiers and other Europeans  
wore very similar type clothing in cold weather in Imperial times.  
There may be a continuous link of usage somewhere between 400 AD and  
1500 AD other than at sea, but probably not. Even the sailor  
connection may not be unbroken. Also, note the belt loops, a 20th  
century development, on the front.

What we call trousers and pants today are actually descended from  
American military overalls introduced at the end of the colonial  
period prior to the American Revolution. That's basically what these  
people are selling, but with the incorrect lace front under the fall.


Ed Walton
Lost Battalions Military Reproductions
http://www.lostbattalions.com
Walton & Taylor Mercantile
http://www.waltontaylor. com

On Jul 24, 2006, at 6:20 AM, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> At 11:56 24/07/2006, you wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>   I've never been much interested in trousers in the middle ages,  
>> so I know only a few about it. I'm now talking about the clothing  
>> of peasants - I've recently seen a picture of a complicated  
>> fastening system which should have been historically accurate.  
>> Here it is:
>>   http://drakkaria.com/obchod/fotky/341b.jpg
>>   http://drakkaria.com/obchod/fotky/2021b.jpg
>>   I have absolutely no clue whether it is right or wrong. Does  
>> someone know? What kind of fastening was used then?
>>
>>   Thanks, Zuzana
>>
>
>
> It is probable that the trousers in the pictures are very late  
> 18th  or early 19th century. I have never seen men's trousers laced  
> up the front, and I wonder if these are in fact nor original, but a  
> reproduction. The pairs in the first picture have similar  
> fastenings to original trousers/trowsers I have seen from about  
> 1815, although I have never seen them with draw strings.Where do  
> the pictures come from? That might help to date them.
>
> Incidentally, I would have said that trousers, as we recognise them  
> today, were not much worn in medieval times. They mostly wore hose,  
> either two separate legs tied to a belt or to the doublet, or a  
> pair of joined hose, fastened in the same way. These were  
> frequently cut on the cross in order to make them fit fairly tightly.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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This is the first time the festival is being done so there wouldn't be
pictures or reviews. The people putting it on are the same people who do the
St. Louis Renfest.
De

-----Original Message-----
This one in September?
http://stlpiratefest.com/index2.shtml

Pirate webring
http://stlpiratefest.com/links.shtml

-----Original Message-----
Does anybody know more about this? I've found their website, but can't
seem to find any pictures or reviews.


stlpiratefest.com


Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] St Louis Pirate Festival
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otsisto wrote:
> This is the first time the festival is being done so there wouldn't be
> pictures or reviews. The people putting it on are the same people who do the
> St. Louis Renfest.

Yeah... I was hoping someone might have some additional info, you never 
know among costumers. :)


Dawn

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2006 20:52:53 -0400
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On Monday 24 July 2006 10:46 am, Ed Walton wrote:
> Suzi is correct. Those trousers are bogus and relatively modern,
> basically  combining broadfall front 18th century overalls
> (panataloons) with a non-correct lace up front. Probably somebody
> made a pair of overalls like this with a broadfall front, but I don't
> think I've ever seen them depicted. Before 1800 "trousers" were
> mainly worn by ship's crews and were nothing like these, except
> possibly for the drawstring. Trousers ended at or right below the
> knee and were very wide legged. Roman soldiers and other Europeans
> wore very similar type clothing in cold weather in Imperial times.
> There may be a continuous link of usage somewhere between 400 AD and
> 1500 AD other than at sea, but probably not. Even the sailor
> connection may not be unbroken. Also, note the belt loops, a 20th
> century development, on the front.

Agreed, with one caveat.  Belt loops may not have appeared regularly on men's 
trousers before the 20th century, but there is at least one archaeological 
find that appears to have them--the trousers in the Thorsberg find, dated to 
approximately the 3rd-4th century A.D.


http://slumberland.org/moodle/mod/forum/discuss.php?d=582

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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What kind o' info you looking for? I can't promise anything but I know one
of the costumers from the STL Renfest that might know something about the
pirate thingy.
De

-----Original Message-----
Yeah... I was hoping someone might have some additional info, you never
know among costumers. :)


Dawn


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
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Belt loops are not a 20th century development.
there is an extent pair of pants from a bog from the 1000s(?), Norse with
belt loops.

De

-----Original Message-----
Also, note the belt loops, a 20th
century development, on the front.



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From: Ed Walton <recon36@airmail.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2006 00:32:59 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Right. I should have said they are a 20th century development  
specifically as they pertain to "modern" style pantaloons/trousers/ 
overalls as depicted in the photo.

Ed Walton
Walton & Taylor Mercantile
www.waltontaylor.com


On Jul 25, 2006, at 12:26 AM, otsisto wrote:

> Belt loops are not a 20th century development.
> there is an extent pair of pants from a bog from the 1000s(?),  
> Norse with
> belt loops.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Also, note the belt loops, a 20th
> century development, on the front.
>
>
>
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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     "That's basically what these 
people are selling, but with the incorrect lace front under the fall."
   
  What should be then under the fall? Buttons? I have no idea...
   
  Zuzana



 		
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From: Ed Walton <recon36@airmail.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2006 08:26:15 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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There's usually and open space or just some kind of overlap (not  
usually) below the waist closure at the center button, and the fall  
flap comes up to overlap in front. Look at breeches patterns from  
about 1830 back. I suppose that flap is just kind of a development of  
the codpiece. Breeches didn't have a separate waist band, but a lot  
of military overalls did. Funny thing when civilians started wearing  
them and overalls branched off into becoming pantaloons and trousers,  
the waistbands went away. Military overalls and civilian work  
overalls continued with the separate waistband, just as we see on  
blue jeans and combat fatigues today.

Ed Walton
Walton & Taylor Mercantile
www.waltontaylor.com



On Jul 25, 2006, at 8:16 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

>
>      "That's basically what these
> people are selling, but with the incorrect lace front under the fall."
>
>   What should be then under the fall? Buttons? I have no idea...
>
>   Zuzana
>
>
>
>  		
> ---------------------------------
> Groups are talking. We&acute;re listening. Check out the handy  
> changes to Yahoo! Groups.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
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At 14:26 25/07/2006, you wrote:
>There's usually and open space or just some kind of overlap (not
>usually) below the waist closure at the center button, and the fall
>flap comes up to overlap in front. Look at breeches patterns from
>about 1830 back. I suppose that flap is just kind of a development of
>the codpiece. Breeches didn't have a separate waist band, but a lot
>of military overalls did. Funny thing when civilians started wearing
>them and overalls branched off into becoming pantaloons and trousers,
>the waistbands went away. Military overalls and civilian work
>overalls continued with the separate waistband, just as we see on
>blue jeans and combat fatigues today.


All the 18th and 19th century breeches I have seen do have a separate 
waistband. Perhaps it is different in the U.S. although according to 
"Costume Close-up" and "Fitting and Proper", waistbands were worn in 
the U.S. too.

There is frequently a small pocket, usually lined in chamois, into 
which a small watch can be put built into the waistband, which can be 
up to 3"  deep. There are pockets set into the join between the 
waistband and the top of the breeches, and quite often at the side of 
the "fall" as well. There are usually two shaped pieces under the 
fall, which are buttoned together, leaving a gap at the very bottom. 
All this is hidden by the fall.

Suzi 

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
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Seventeenth-century breeches, which were always fairly voluminous, were
closed with an unconcealed row of buttons. I suppose as the garment
became more close-fitting, a simple button closure must have been seen
as unattractive and the fall front evolved, with the buttons concealed
under the waistcoat.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> 25/07/2006 14:33 >>>
At 14:26 25/07/2006, you wrote:
>There's usually and open space or just some kind of overlap (not
>usually) below the waist closure at the center button, and the fall
>flap comes up to overlap in front. Look at breeches patterns from
>about 1830 back. I suppose that flap is just kind of a development of
>the codpiece. Breeches didn't have a separate waist band, but a lot
>of military overalls did. Funny thing when civilians started wearing
>them and overalls branched off into becoming pantaloons and trousers,
>the waistbands went away. Military overalls and civilian work
>overalls continued with the separate waistband, just as we see on
>blue jeans and combat fatigues today.


All the 18th and 19th century breeches I have seen do have a separate 
waistband. Perhaps it is different in the U.S. although according to 
"Costume Close-up" and "Fitting and Proper", waistbands were worn in 
the U.S. too.

There is frequently a small pocket, usually lined in chamois, into 
which a small watch can be put built into the waistband, which can be 
up to 3"  deep. There are pockets set into the join between the 
waistband and the top of the breeches, and quite often at the side of 
the "fall" as well. There are usually two shaped pieces under the 
fall, which are buttoned together, leaving a gap at the very bottom. 
All this is hidden by the fall.

Suzi 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] St Louis Pirate Festival
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otsisto wrote:

> What kind o' info you looking for? I can't promise anything but I know one
> of the costumers from the STL Renfest that might know something about the
> pirate thingy.
> De


I was wondering what sets this apart as a Pirate festival, when it's run 
by the renfest folks, on renfest grounds, with the same renfest acts 
(including pirates) we already get locally.  Aside from a preponderance 
of "ayes" and "arrhs" and red bandannas, how is this different or 
interesting enough to make me drive half a day to get to it?



Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] Pirates otC dress
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Ok, so this is only quasi-semi-vaguely-barely historical.  In the first 
pirates movie which I haven't seen for a couple of years, the heroine whose 
name I can't remember is given a dark plum dress to wear by some bad guy. I 
recently saw about 5 minutes of the movie again, at which point I remembered 
that I really liked that dress (especially the sleeves), and would like to 
make it, historical or not.  However, apart from the corsets, I'm not really 
familiar with the clothing of that era (1650s or 1660sish?).

I'm looking to make a version of it that's heavily based on the historical 
style, but which need not be absolutely accurate, since I'm doing it for 
sheer pretty-dress-ness.  Other than Nicole Kipar's website and the Waugh 
and Arnold pattern books, can anyone point me to some resources that would 
be helpful from the viewpoint of actually making this sort of dress?  I 
generally make my own patterns, but I'm definitely not above making use of a 
good commercial pattern, if there's one out there.

-E House 

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Subject: [h-cost] Attn. Dawn FW: the pirate fest thing
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-----Original Message-----
De-
That is a very valid set of questions. I am not actively involved in the
pirate fest prep work, because of my school schedule, but I am keeping up
with the overall plans. This first year, I can't really speak to _how_
different it will be, since we're trying to start up with very little money
or prep time, but the concept behind the festival is not ren faire. Though
remaining with the french theme that the StL faire has, it's being set on
Martinique, and the dates have changed dramatically. Some of cast will be
playing various historical pirates from a 200+ year period of time, but the
rest of cast will be set in the french colonial period, around the 1750s.
Getting that big of a costuming change-over done in one season is a real
challenge, obviously. We're aiming high, with the realization that, just
like the faire itself, we'll have to keep working every year to get closer
to a truly historical appearance.
I can't speak for what the patrons will do, but the cast is emphatically not
supposed to be indulging in a lot of Ayes, Arrrs, and red bandanas. We
remain a historical re-enactment group, just shifting focus for this new
event.

Clearly, with largely the same cast and using parts of the same site, along
with a similar crew of performers and merchants, there will be a lot that
feels the same. The hope is that there will be enough exploration of a
different period of history to make it worthwhile for people who are looking
for something different. (And a lot of piratical silliness will probably
ensue as well.)

If there are more specific questions, I can try to get them answered, since
I'm still on staff (just taking a break for a few months while I get
adjusted to my new schedule - there are other people who are a lot more
experienced than I am at colonial costuming, so they were asked to largely
handle this one, to take some pressure off of me).

Hope that helps. Feel free to poke at me as needed.
   - fae
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E House wrote:

>   Other than Nicole Kipar's website 
> and the Waugh and Arnold pattern books, can anyone point me to some 
> resources that would be helpful from the viewpoint of actually making 
> this sort of dress?  


http://www.costumersguide.com/cr_potc.shtml

I might be able to dig up some more later, I did a bunch of research 
this spring, but I need to find my notes.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates otC dress
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 11:06:10 +1200
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> I'm looking to make a version of it that's heavily based on the historical
> style, but which need not be absolutely accurate, since I'm doing it for
> sheer pretty-dress-ness.  Other than Nicole Kipar's website and the Waugh
> and Arnold pattern books, can anyone point me to some resources that would
> be helpful from the viewpoint of actually making this sort of dress?  I
> generally make my own patterns, but I'm definitely not above making use of
a
> good commercial pattern, if there's one out there.

I think you pretty well have it covered. I found Waugh really useful, not
just for the patterns but for the info about how garments were constucted
and put together (especially the 18thC section.)

But Hunnisett might have some more info on the putting together of the gowns
(even in a modern sense.) So that might be somehtign to look for.

Tarrant's book Development of Costume (I think that's the title?) might also
offer more information about the insides of the garments. She does share
photos of the inside of several garments, but I'm not sure about the inside
of a 17thC woman's dress...

I'm thinking the costume in the movie is an Hollywoodised version of the
informal dress of the 1670s-80s:
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1600d.shtml
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/nym4.shtml
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1678_2.shtml

http://www.marquise.de/database/dbsearch.shtml
http://www.marquise.de/database/dbout.php?name=1678_1&pfad=1600
http://www.marquise.de/database/dbout.php?name=167x_6&pfad=1600
http://www.marquise.de/database/dbout.php?name=168x_3&pfad=1600

http://www.marquise.de/database/dbout.php?name=168x_5&pfad=1600
http://www.marquise.de/database/dbout.php?name=167x_8&pfad=1600
http://www.marquise.de/database/dbout.php?name=167x_9&pfad=1600
http://www.marquise.de/database/dbout.php?name=1682_1&pfad=1600

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: [h-cost] belt loops / belt buckles
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I remember, lo this many years ago, someone telling me that D ring belt 
buckles weren't invented until the 1800's. It's amazing what people will 
accept as fact.



Catalina
nunca sin mi vino


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2006 00:26:49 -0500
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] medieval trousers - fastening???
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Belt loops are not a 20th century development.
there is an extent pair of pants from a bog from the 1000s(?), Norse with
belt loops.

De


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates otC dress
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On Tuesday 25 July 2006 5:00 pm, E House wrote:
> Ok, so this is only quasi-semi-vaguely-barely historical.  In the first
> pirates movie which I haven't seen for a couple of years, the heroine whose
> name I can't remember is given a dark plum dress to wear by some bad guy. I
> recently saw about 5 minutes of the movie again, at which point I
> remembered that I really liked that dress (especially the sleeves), and
> would like to make it, historical or not.  However, apart from the corsets,
> I'm not really familiar with the clothing of that era (1650s or 1660sish?).

Google for "No Quarter Given"  That's a magazine (and I think the name of the 
website too) for pirate (yes, pirate) reenactors.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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I found two pirate costuming retailers on this site.
http://www.captjackspiratehats.com/links/
They seem to have a clue about men's wear but only a vague notion for
women's.

-----Original Message-----

Google for "No Quarter Given"  That's a magazine (and I think the name of
the
website too) for pirate (yes, pirate) reenactors.


--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>




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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 07:39:58 +0000 (GMT)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] V&A - Italian interior books published in October
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Just a heads-up: The V&A will be publishing two books this October which look like they will contain a good few paintings of people within interiors from Renaissance Italy, to tie in with another exhibition. It does look like they also refer to dress and jewellery!
 
"At Home in Renaissance Italy"
"This beautifully illustrated book is the first to look so comprehensively at the role of the urban Italian house in the development of Renaissance art and culture. 'At Home in Renaissance Italy' brings together a wide range of objects, from furniture and kitchen utensils to popular prints, jewellery and everyday dress, revealing how the homes of the upper- and middle-classes made a crucial contribution to the flowering of the visual arts in 15th- and 16th-century Italy. Drawing on a wide array of sources including letters, treatises, inventories, account-books and archaeological and conservation reports, it offers a completely fresh exploration of the fascinating domestic world of Renaissance Italy." ISBN NUMBER  1851774890 
 
"Inside the Renaissance House"
"The Renaissance home was an outward symbol of a familyâ€™s status, wealth and erudition, and much care went into its arrangement and furnishing, and the art of household management. 'Inside the Renaissance House' vividly conveys through contemporary illustrations and lively writing the realities of living in Florence and Venice during this innovative era and takes the reader on a room-by-room tour. From the sala, devoted to games, music and entertaining in style, to the bedchamber, which was far from the private space it is today, to the study, full of rare and precious objects, Elizabeth Currie evokes the life that went on in each room."
ISBN NUMBER  1851774904 

Katherine, off to start saving up her pennies.

 
"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright 
 

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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pirates otC dress
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I know a wonderful costumer who makes costumes for dolls according to famous movies like Star wars, LOTR, ... and also Pirates OtC! On her webpage there is a beautiful gallery of her dresses and for each of them a detailed diary with the patterns she used. Here is the gallery-page:
   
  http://www.molendrix.com/galerie1.html
   
  And here an Elisabeth Swan plum dress diary:
   
  http://molendrix.com/plum1.html
   
  Though the patterns shown are for dolls, they give a good idea about the shape of the pattern and I found many times very helpful. Alas, the pattern for the plum dress includes only the bodice and the wide sleeves, but I think the patterns for skirt and other parts of the dress are not very hard to make up:-)
   
  Zuzana


 		
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Thank you for this fantastic link! I have often wondered where I might find doll patterns like this.

Natalie

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Zuzana Kraemerova 
  To: Historical Costume 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:13 AM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pirates otC dress


  I know a wonderful costumer who makes costumes for dolls according to famous movies like Star wars, LOTR, ... and also Pirates OtC! On her webpage there is a beautiful gallery of her dresses and for each of them a detailed diary with the patterns she used. Here is the gallery-page:
     
    http://www.molendrix.com/galerie1.html
     
    And here an Elisabeth Swan plum dress diary:
     
    http://molendrix.com/plum1.html
     
    Though the patterns shown are for dolls, they give a good idea about the shape of the pattern and I found many times very helpful. Alas, the pattern for the plum dress includes only the bodice and the wide sleeves, but I think the patterns for skirt and other parts of the dress are not very hard to make up:-)
     
    Zuzana


    
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates otC dress
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In a message dated 7/26/2006 12:20:39 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cathy@thyrsus.com writes:

for  pirate (yes, pirate) re enactors


************************
 
And speaking of.....
 
I saw on the History Channel their show of "REAL Pirates of the Caribbean".  
The info was all very interesting but the costumes in the rather extensive  
re-enactments were more than pitiful! High School theatre departments could  
have done better! I  mean  everything from 1600s to 1700s  was  mixed... if you 
could actually put a year on any of the dreadful outfits. We had  Spanish 
Conquistadors fighting pirates in chrome yellow brocade justicorps  and white [not 
powdered] wigs. Then the same outfits would appear for a  re-enactment of 
something in the next century. The British Navy of the early  18th century 
apparently had no uniforms...everyone on board was dressed  differently. And the 
officers were wearing all kinds of stuff. Top it all off  with the fact nothing 
fit.
 
Don't EVEN get me started on Ann Bonny and Mary Read! YIKES! I don't even  
know where their outfits came from. Nothing...I tell you, nothing historical  
about them. Well, they were made of cloth....I think.
 
Now, were this a fun little pirate fantasy, like the movie P's of the C,  
this would only be mildly annoying. But this is supposed to be the HISTORY  
channel. And the show was about the REAL pirates. No excuse. Iffen ya can't  afford 
to do the re-enactments correctly, don't rest the entire show upon  them!
 
I suspected they relied on re-enactors....with no shame. But if someone got  
paid to costume the fiasco...oy!
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From: SPaterson <sjpaterson@tru.eastlink.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates otC dress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yes, I had to stop watching and only listen to that episode. It was rather 
rough on a costumer's sensibilities.
I have been involved in a documentary piece "In the Village" by Nexus 
Productions where I was listed (and paid) as the head of wardrobe, but in 
actual fact I only had control over the costumes of the principals because 
the 'volunteers'  and extras brought their own gear. I did my very best to 
influence the extras in their choices but did not always succeed.

Sarah Paterson

----- Original Message ----- 


>
> And speaking of.....
>
> I saw on the History Channel their show of "REAL Pirates of the 
> Caribbean".
> The info was all very interesting but the costumes in the rather extensive
> re-enactments were more than pitiful! High School theatre departments 
> could
> have done better! I  mean  everything from 1600s to 1700s  was  mixed... 
> if you
> could actually put a year on any of the dreadful outfits. We had  Spanish
> Conquistadors fighting pirates in chrome yellow brocade justicorps  and 
> white [not
> powdered] wigs. Then the same outfits would appear for a  re-enactment of
> something in the next century. The British Navy of the early  18th century
> apparently had no uniforms...everyone on board was dressed  differently. 
> And the
> officers were wearing all kinds of stuff. Top it all off  with the fact 
> nothing
> fit.
>
> Don't EVEN get me started on Ann Bonny and Mary Read! YIKES! I don't even
> know where their outfits came from. Nothing...I tell you, nothing 
> historical
> about them. Well, they were made of cloth....I think.
>
> Now, were this a fun little pirate fantasy, like the movie P's of the C,
> this would only be mildly annoying. But this is supposed to be the HISTORY
> channel. And the show was about the REAL pirates. No excuse. Iffen ya 
> can't  afford
> to do the re-enactments correctly, don't rest the entire show upon  them!
>
> I suspected they relied on re-enactors....with no shame. But if someone 
> got
> paid to costume the fiasco...oy!
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Status: RO

Yes, the costumes were laughable, but the History Channel is on a
budget, especially costume-wise. I caught a making-of...some Am
Revolution series I think, and they do these shows or series on really
small budgets and timeframes.  When they are doing American Revolution
or American Civil War they can get reinactors for troops to do it for
free practically, so what you see for troops and background people is
often more authentic garb and gear-wise than the front and center
actors.

For Pirates of the Carribean 2, Simplicity Patterns has a rough
approximation of Keira Knightly's wedding dress and a Marie Antoinette
gown in one of their "Fall Preview" patterns. Definitely for those that
need a fairly quick costume to go as the female leads in PoC or upcoming
Marie Antoinette film.

Awaiting Martha McCain's rumoured 18th patterns for Simplicity.

Cindy Abel

 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: POTC dress...Now M MaCain's 18th cent patterns
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At 9:30 AM -0600 7/26/06, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>Awaiting Martha McCain's rumoured 18th patterns for Simplicity.
>
>Cindy Abel

Last I heard they *might* be out in the Spring 2007? Anyone else?
Ta
Carol--also awaiting the 18th cent line...
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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   	 To view the FREE REGENCY ERA BONNET project, simply fill out the 
form below with your first name, last name and e-mail address.

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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 11:00:55 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet pattern from Simplicity
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
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And on click further down is a job offer for an instruction writer!!!

http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=section/freelance/freelance.html

Here is your opportunity to see what kinds of obsticles you will
have to go through just to write something that everyone will
understand, not just those with 10th grade reading skills.

Chiara


On Wed, July 26, 2006 10:48 am, Dawn said:
>
>
>
>    	 To view the FREE REGENCY ERA BONNET project, simply fill out
> the
> form below with your first name, last name and e-mail address.
>
> http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=jump/homePageEraBonnet/hpEraBonnetIndex.cfm
>
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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 Thanks for the link, Dawn!  Hmm--Wonder if Simplicity is going to do
Regency-style gown and clothing patterns next? Not a lot of inexpensive,
fairly accurate patterns out there. Noted that the far left pic in the
trio of styles was taken from Heideloff's Gallery of Fashion so someone
has been doing some serious research!

Cindy Abel

 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet pattern from Simplicity
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At 17:26 26/07/2006, you wrote:
>  Thanks for the link, Dawn!  Hmm--Wonder if Simplicity is going to do
>Regency-style gown and clothing patterns next? Not a lot of inexpensive,
>fairly accurate patterns out there. Noted that the far left pic in the
>trio of styles was taken from Heideloff's Gallery of Fashion so someone
>has been doing some serious research!


Simplicity has taken up two of the Sense and Sensibility Patterns by 
Jennie Chancey, a gown set and an underthings set. These were 
available from July 21st. The numbers are #4055 and #4052.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet pattern from Simplicity
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Abel, Cynthia wrote:

>  Thanks for the link, Dawn!  Hmm--Wonder if Simplicity is going to do
> Regency-style gown and clothing patterns next? Not a lot of inexpensive,
> fairly accurate patterns out there. Noted that the far left pic in the
> trio of styles was taken from Heideloff's Gallery of Fashion so someone
> has been doing some serious research!
> 

They've got a dress and shift in their fall lineup. Look up 4052 and 
4055. I'm guessing they glommed onto last year's version of _Pride and 
Prejudice_.

And on a completely different subject, the stuffed dragons in 4063 are 
totally cute!



Dawn



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There's a men's "Renaissance" 4059

Is that Long Thing (tm) supposed to be an Elizabethan Skirted Doublet? 
It *does* have a waist seam .....  Really bizarre .....

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> 
> There's a men's "Renaissance" 4059
> 
> Is that Long Thing (tm) supposed to be an Elizabethan Skirted Doublet? 
> It *does* have a waist seam .....  Really bizarre .....
> 

It reminds me more of an early Tudor doublet. Or maybe the cuffs and 
breeches are supposed to be baroque. Either way, I agree it looks odd.



Dawn


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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates otC dress
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 11:31:20 -0700
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My 10 year old daughter caught on of the actors wearing wire rimmed  
glasses. I couldn't finish the show because of being so bad.  Even on  
a budget, they could have done far better. At least they could have  
chosen one time period to portray. Ouch!
Althea


On Jul 26, 2006, at 7:18 AM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 7/26/2006 12:20:39 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> cathy@thyrsus.com writes:
>
> I saw on the History Channel their show of "REAL Pirates of the  
> Caribbean".
> The info was all very interesting but the costumes in the rather  
> extensive
> re-enactments were more than pitiful! High School theatre  
> departments could
> have done better!

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet pattern from Simplicity
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In a message dated 7/26/2006 12:39:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Simplicity has taken up two of the Sense and Sensibility Patterns by  
Jennie Chancey, a gown set and an underthings set. These were  
available from July 21st. The numbers are #4055 and  #4052.



That is interesting.  I always thought those patterns were acceptable,  if 
not top notch.  She says these patterns are not exactly what she  has been 
selling, so I look forward to examining them.  It is high time  there was something 
mass produced for the average sewer.
 
Ann Wass
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In a message dated 7/26/2006 12:27:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu writes:

Noted  that the far left pic in the
trio of styles was taken from Heideloff's  Gallery of Fashion so someone
has been doing some serious  research!



Well, both Heideloff's Gallery and Madame Seriziat, whose portrait is  shown, 
are a tad earlier than what I think of as the Regency period, even by  
extension.  Madame Seriziat was painted in 1795, even early if you argue  for the 
date that Jane Austen began "Pride and Prejudice." 
 
Ann
 
 
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 12:21:12 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: NSDM link on your website (was: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet...)
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Status: RO

Dawn,
FYI, saw your note & remembered that I should mention the NSDM game
link for Gencon is broken on your http://www.nsdmg.org/ website.

Was hoping to see you at the con since we've never met in person.  I'm
working the dealer's room at the Lone Wolf (Army Builder) booth.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 10:48:48 -0500
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
Subject: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet pattern from Simplicity
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <44C78EE0.4080704@reddawn.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed


       To view the FREE REGENCY ERA BONNET project, simply fill out the
form below with your first name, last name and e-mail address.

http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=jump/homePageEraBonnet/hpEraBonnetIndex.cfm


Dawn
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: NSDM link on your website -- OOPS
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Sorry 'bout that ladies & gents.  T'was just a little off topic!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com


On 7/26/06, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
> Dawn,
> FYI, saw your note & remembered that I should mention the NSDM game
> link for Gencon is broken on your http://www.nsdmg.org/ website.<snip>
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 15:37:37 -0400
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
From: Dawn Luckham <dluckham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!) 
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[Ack - I just put in an invisible zip in a very non-historic dress but the 
tab at the top is a) the wrong colour and b) hanging out....
Any suggestions? (polite ones thank you). No sign of zips this colour in 
the locale so]

I have had success using model paint enamel to paint the zipper 
pulls.  This is the paint that is sold to paint the car, boat and airplane 
models sold to little boys and hobbyists.   Two or three colours can be 
mixed to find an exact match to your fabric.  Try a test swatch to make 
sure the paint doesn't change colour as it dries.


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pirates otC dress
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 14:53:16 -0500
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Status: RO

I thought the pattern was a rendition of the wedding dress and realized that
it is the golden dress from PoC1 that they are trying to mimic.
pattern 4092
http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?cat=4&type=19&sec=45&startrow=1
Golden gown
http://www.willofasparrow.com/files/escstm.html#

by the way Simplicity has new pattern out. One is there rendition of Regency
style dress.
McCall's has some new ones too.
De

-----Original Message-----
For Pirates of the Carribean 2, Simplicity Patterns has a rough
approximation of Keira Knightly's wedding dress

Cindy Abel


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: new Simplicity Patterns (was RE: [h-cost] free Regency
	bonnetpattern from Simplicity
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 15:03:01 -0500
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Interesting hat. It looks like the model is trying to be Christopher
Colombus.
De

-----Original Message-----
Susan B. Farmer wrote:

>
> There's a men's "Renaissance" 4059
>
> Is that Long Thing (tm) supposed to be an Elizabethan Skirted Doublet?
> It *does* have a waist seam .....  Really bizarre .....
>

It reminds me more of an early Tudor doublet. Or maybe the cuffs and
breeches are supposed to be baroque. Either way, I agree it looks odd.



Dawn


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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 14:27:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: new Simplicity Patterns (was RE: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet
	pattern from Simplicity
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Eeew, that isn't Tudor. Men's skirts for a Tudor outfit has pleats, and the pants are too long. And that hat is huge! It reminds me more of their old Ben Franklin outfit, sorta, in the body, but that hat has got to go.
   
  Kimiko
  

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> 
> There's a men's "Renaissance" 4059
> 
> Is that Long Thing (tm) supposed to be an Elizabethan Skirted Doublet? 
> It *does* have a waist seam ..... Really bizarre .....
> 

It reminds me more of an early Tudor doublet. Or maybe the cuffs and 
breeches are supposed to be baroque. Either way, I agree it looks odd.



Dawn


 		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 26 17:32:27 2006
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet pattern from Simplicity
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Yes, I noticed that right off. And said to myself that the Heideloff
plate and Seriziat portrait are way too early for Regency.  Well, unless
one is dressing as Jane Austen's mom! And Mamma Austen would probably
not have been caught dead in any of the three "bonnets" shown. I
suggested to Dover Publications a few years' back when the craze for all
things Jane Austen was at its height that they might want to consider
publishing a selection of plates from "The Gallery of Fashion" due to
its rarity, beauty, and the general ignorance of fashion development
between 1785 and 1805. A good deal of that time being passed over, just
like the fashions of World War I, is that they are seen as transitional
and awkward to modern eyes.

I think often that 1790-1810 fashions are just all grouped under
Regency, just because the general public is supposedly too dumb to know
what Revolutionary, Directorie, or Empire fashion is. 

I can hear the pitch now: "Hey, just group it all under Regency, because
enough people will think "Regency Novel" or Jane Austen or something if
they are sophisticated enough to know what Regency roughly means."

And snickers from us who know that "Regency" is 1810-1820 strictly
speaking.  Or might even ask which "Regency"

Cindy Abel

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In a message dated 7/26/2006 2:32:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
althea@alfalfapress.com writes:

Even  on  
a budget, they could have done far  better.


***************
 
Indeed. The entire show revolved and was mostly taken up with lousy  
reenactments. If you don't have the money for reenactments, don't depend on them  so 
heavily. I mean, Ken Burns did 15 episodes covering the entire Am. Civil  War 
without a single reenactment!
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] pourpoint
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Hi there,
  does anybody know a book or web page or anything where I can find some info on making (drafting a pattern and instructions on sewing) a medieval pourpoint? Thanks:-)
   
  Zuzana

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From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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*tsk* *tsk* Oh those "Regency" patterns. Why, oh why, do the commercial 
patterns insist on making those back curved princess seams when it would 
be so easy to make the beautiful "diamond back" shape that characterizes 
this period? And that Short Stays pattern--what are they trying to 
do--make everyone look as flat-chested as Keira Knightley. Ah well, I'll 
turn grumble mode off now...

- Hope

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> 
> I think often that 1790-1810 fashions are just all grouped under
> Regency, just because the general public is supposedly too dumb to know
> what Revolutionary, Directorie, or Empire fashion is. 
> 
> I can hear the pitch now: "Hey, just group it all under Regency, because
> enough people will think "Regency Novel" or Jane Austen or something if
> they are sophisticated enough to know what Regency roughly means."
> 
> And snickers from us who know that "Regency" is 1810-1820 strictly
> speaking.  Or might even ask which "Regency"

I am not a romance fan but:  Regency romance novelists do in fact 
interpret the "Regency" period (sometimes calling it "extended Regency") 
as roughly 1790 or 1800 up to 1830 or even 1840.  That is not because 
most of them are unaware of the dates when the Prince Regent performed 
that office, or because they think their readers are ignorant, or 
because they are trying to deceive them. It's because "Regency romance" 
is a strictly a marketing label for a specific fiction publishing genre. 
  When readers buy something marketed as a Regency romance, they expect 
to read a certain kind of novel with certain kinds of characters, plots, 
settings, etc.  They may well know when the actual Regency period was, 
but in this context they could care less.  They're looking for a 
specific kind of entertainment, not a history lesson.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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In a message dated 7/26/2006 7:09:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:

making  those back curved princess seams when it would 
be so easy to make the  beautiful "diamond back" shape that characterizes 
this period? 


Actually, I don't find that egregious.  I based my bodice patterns on  the 
extant garment and pattern pieces in Kohler, and that has the curved back  seam. 
 The diamond back definitely broadens through the period.
 
The things I want to check out in detail are position of the shoulder seam,  
distribution of the fullness in the sleeves and, especially, shape of the 
skirt  pieces.  (The Butterick pattern a few years ago looked pretty good made up, 
 but when I got the pattern, I discovered that they had evidently just pulled 
 "A-line bridesmaid's skirt" pieces.  And, grumble, grumble, how hard is it  
to make a skirt using more or less straight and slightly gored panels  anyway?
 
Ann Wass
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In a message dated 7/26/2006 7:19:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

When  readers buy something marketed as a Regency romance, they expect 
to read a  certain kind of novel with certain kinds of characters, plots, 
settings,  etc.  They may well know when the actual Regency period was, 
but in  this context they could care less.  They're looking for a 
specific  kind of entertainment, not a history lesson


That implies, then, that the market for these patterns is readers of  Regency 
romances.  But I think it will extend at least to Jane Austen fans,  who 
ought to know what the costume of her era was.  (Okay, we can argue as  early as 
the late 1790s, as the latest P & P did, since she actually started  writing 
then.)  More broadly, there are reenactors out there who being  beginners with 
perhaps only basic sewing skills, might glom onto these as the  greatest thing 
since sliced bread.  I'll reserve judgment on the dress  pattern until I've 
seen it more closely.  But if they have plans to market  that bonnet, or 
something like it, well. . . .
 
Ann Wass
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At 00:28 27/07/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 7/26/2006 7:09:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:
>
>making  those back curved princess seams when it would
>be so easy to make the  beautiful "diamond back" shape that characterizes
>this period?
>
>
>Actually, I don't find that egregious.  I based my bodice patterns on  the
>extant garment and pattern pieces in Kohler, and that has the curved 
>back  seam.

I've seen curved backs at this time period, and have no problem with 
it either.

>  The diamond back definitely broadens through the period.
>

>The things I want to check out in detail are position of the shoulder seam,
>distribution of the fullness in the sleeves and, especially, shape of the
>skirt  pieces.  (The Butterick pattern a few years ago looked pretty 
>good made up,
>  but when I got the pattern, I discovered that they had evidently 
> just pulled
>  "A-line bridesmaid's skirt" pieces.  And, grumble, grumble, how hard is it
>to make a skirt using more or less straight and slightly gored panels  anyway?
>
>Ann Wass

I have also recently been researching short stays, and it is all a 
matter, surely, of the model chosen by the pattern company, who 
happens to be very slender, and to resemble the bosomless Ms. 
Knightley. Had they photoed it on a different model, it would have 
looked different, as that is what corsets do. It is not necessarily 
the fault of the pattern or the original pattern designer, who would 
have had very little choice in the marketing strategy.

Suzi 

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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 19:49:38 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet pattern from Simplicity
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 7/26/2006 7:19:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

That is  not because 
most of them are unaware of the dates when the Prince Regent  performed 
that office, or because they think their readers are ignorant,  or 
because they are trying to deceive them. It's because "Regency romance"  
is a strictly a marketing label for a specific fiction publishing genre.  



*****************
 
And indeed, "Regency" as a costume period, is also just a label. What does  
it mean outside England? The same is true for "Cavalier"...what does that mean  
outside France....or really even IN France since the word just means 
"Knight"?  Or "Victorian"...which covers umpteen silhouettes and is , again "English". 
 Don't get me started on "Georgian"!
 
All these things are labels for quick general reference. But even when  design
ing something that need not be accurate to a tee, I want a year, a date. I  
always asked the Director for one when I did theatre. One does not have to 
stick  to just that year, but it's good to have a cutting off point. And even 
then, use  something close to but beyond the cut off year if it's too good to pass 
up  and looks perfect for the character.
 
For "Pirates of the Caribbean", Ms. Knightly's dresses were lovely indeed  
but the wrong period. The men were more 1700...17-teens. You say, "It's just a  
fantasy"? Well yes. But then why go thru all those period underpinnings and  
stuff from 1770s to create a dress that could also be made in the correct  
silhouette. I mean, the feeling and air of all her gowns could of be done with a  
mantua, in a light silk, draped up in the back prettily. Her wedding gown 
could  have been a brocade gown with an encrusted stomacher....of the period.
 
All I'm saying is there are a million ways to do the same dress in just  
about any period.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Regency Patterns;	Was free Regency bonnet pattern
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> 
> That implies, then, that the market for these patterns is readers of  Regency 
> romances.  But I think it will extend at least to Jane Austen fans,  who 
> ought to know what the costume of her era was.  (Okay, we can argue as  early as 
> the late 1790s, as the latest P & P did, since she actually started  writing 
> then.)

A fair number of whom are also Regency romance readers or writers, in a 
usually vain attempt to read or write something similar.  And/or viewers 
of Jane-Austen-period films.

When you market something you need a quick handle for it that most 
potential buyers will immediately recognize, relate to, and want. 
"Regency" is probably the best choice of label for the very late 18th 
and early 19th centuries, though "Jane Austen" might come close. 
"Regency" has much more marketing clout than something like "Circa 1795."


   More broadly, there are reenactors out there who being  beginners with
> perhaps only basic sewing skills, might glom onto these as the  greatest thing 
> since sliced bread.  I'll reserve judgment on the dress  pattern until I've 
> seen it more closely.  But if they have plans to market  that bonnet, or 
> something like it, well. . . .

Simplicity is a huge mainstream fashion company, and they need a much 
larger market than reenactors alone, or reenactors plus theatrical 
costumers.  They probably also put in a few things like a zipper (though 
I have not checked) to make those patterns more familiar and "easier" 
for mainstream sewers.  They are in business to give the largest number 
of people what they want, and the largest number of people are not 
reenactors.  If you want 100% period-accurate patterns targeted 
specifically to reenactors, you need to look at a pattern company that 
specializes in patterns just for them.  But that is not the business 
Simplicity is in, and if you expect them to be you will always be 
dissatisfied with their patterns.

Fran
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: RE: new Simplicity Patterns (was RE: [h-cost] free
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I love the "Authentic" renaissance costume, which has "curved" bodice seams.
AAACK!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 1:03 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: new Simplicity Patterns (was RE: [h-cost] free
Regencybonnetpattern from Simplicity


Interesting hat. It looks like the model is trying to be Christopher
Colombus. De

-----Original Message-----
Susan B. Farmer wrote:

>
> There's a men's "Renaissance" 4059
>
> Is that Long Thing (tm) supposed to be an Elizabethan Skirted Doublet? 
> It *does* have a waist seam .....  Really bizarre .....
>

It reminds me more of an early Tudor doublet. Or maybe the cuffs and
breeches are supposed to be baroque. Either way, I agree it looks odd.



Dawn


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Sorry to respond to my own post, but I should add that I am sometimes  called 
upon to give costume advice to new early 19th century reenactors  (Americans 
in the War of 1812, mostly), and I continue to look for really decent  
patterns that people with only modest sewing skills can use.  And that lets  out some 
of the specialty pattern companies.  Ever since Simplicity did  American 
Civil War, and is now in process with the American Revolution, I've had  hopes for 
the early 19th century.  I'm not sure this line is as carefully  researched 
as those other two, though.
 
Of course, the other task is guiding my newbies to the right fabrics, but  
that is another discussion.
 
Ann Wass
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <002a01c6b119$9ed1dbd0$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: new Simplicity Patterns (was RE: [h-cost]
	freeRegencybonnetpattern from Simplicity
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 14:02:18 +1200
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> I love the "Authentic" renaissance costume, which has "curved" bodice
seams.
> AAACK!

What style? What part of the renaissance? What pattern? I can't see any
Simplicity "renaisance" pattern claiming to be authentic. The one under
"Historical"  4508? I think they are going for a Jacobean and a Spanish
court flavour for those....

Doublet bodices of the late 16thC can have curved seams, it means you can
get a bodice to fit right up to the neck without distorting the centre front
line.
http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm in there is a link to a
jerkin on the Met Muesum site, it has curved front and back seams.

Not all curved seams are created equal! The shapes on the Simplicity
patterns would need to be tweaked to make them "better" though.

Well they'd need to be completely redrafted for me even if I were to use it
as a quickie costume pattern... but that's a whole other rant.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Regency Patterns;	Was free Regency bonnet pattern
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You could always teach them more advanced sewing skills.

Fran

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> Sorry to respond to my own post, but I should add that I am sometimes  called 
> upon to give costume advice to new early 19th century reenactors  (Americans 
> in the War of 1812, mostly), and I continue to look for really decent  
> patterns that people with only modest sewing skills can use.  And that lets  out some 
> of the specialty pattern companies.  Ever since Simplicity did  American 
> Civil War, and is now in process with the American Revolution, I've had  hopes for 
> the early 19th century.  I'm not sure this line is as carefully  researched 
> as those other two, though.
>  
> Of course, the other task is guiding my newbies to the right fabrics, but  
> that is another discussion.
>  
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: new Simplicity Patterns (was RE: [h-cost]
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In a message dated 7/26/2006 10:07:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
thebruce@ihug.co.nz writes:

http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm in there is a link to  a
jerkin on the Met Muesum site, it has curved front and back  seams.



***************
 
Uh...they look straight to me.......
 
I see the curve of the body which the seam is going around at a diagonal  but 
the seams for all practical purposes look straight.
 
When I made some doublets patterned using Janet Arnold, I left out the  
[modern] side underarm seams that would have made it easier to fit [That's  for 
sure!] and, like in the real garments, the 1st seam from the CF was the  side 
back seam, which was straight, and went from the armseye diagonally to the  waist 
a few inches from CB. On a person, these too seemed to curve slightly  
because of the diagonal going around the body.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Regency Patterns;
	Was free Regency bonnet pattern from Simpl...
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In a message dated 7/26/2006 10:19:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

You  could always teach them more advanced sewing  skills.




*****************
 
Fran...get on with your bad self!
 
I don't see how a Regency dress would stump a home sewer unless it was a  bib 
front dress or something like that. The shoulder seams may not be on top of  
the shoulder like modern clothes and the side back seams may curve to within 
an  inch of CB but they still are just seams and can sewn just like modern  cl
othes. The placement is a little off from modern patterns but they aren't  
unfathomable.
Now fitting may take some rethinking....
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Regency Patterns;	Was free Regency bonnet pattern
	from Simpl...
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>  
> Fran...get on with your bad self!
>  
> I don't see how a Regency dress would stump a home sewer unless it was a  bib 
> front dress or something like that. The shoulder seams may not be on top of  
> the shoulder like modern clothes and the side back seams may curve to within 
> an  inch of CB but they still are just seams and can sewn just like modern  cl
> othes. The placement is a little off from modern patterns but they aren't  
> unfathomable.
> Now fitting may take some rethinking....

Well actually, I think women's "real" Regency is one of the easiest 
historic periods to sew, and not that hard to fit either.  It's also 
comfortable to wear, it looks good on almost everyone, and it's often 
fairly inexpensive to make. I can't see anything presenting problems for 
a beginning sewer except a tailored riding habit.

1920s is another really easy period to sew, but on many people the 
styles have an unfortunate tendency to cling to the abdomen, hips, 
and/or behind.  Medieval T-tunic styles are also easy.

If I were to recommend that someone start to learn historic sewing going 
by what's easy to sew, I'd recommend one of those three eras.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Subject: [h-cost] curved seams Re: new Simplicity Patterns 
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>> http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm in there is a link to  a
>> jerkin on the Met Muesum site, it has curved front and back  seams.

> Uh...they look straight to me.......

Uhhh... If you have the pattern, you will see they are not.;) Blanche Payne
History of Costume 1st ed.
And I also need to add here I meant *side* front and *side* back seams (in
context it made sense, but just in case....)

> I see the curve of the body which the seam is going around at a diagonal
but
> the seams for all practical purposes look straight.

The curves aren't even the same shape when you see the pattern, the side of
the centre front panels are a slightly shallower curve than the side of the
side pieces. those side pieces also are actual side pieces, meaning they go
right around to the side back

Bugger. I have seen indications of that side front line in a pattern, but
it's not Alcega. It may be Burguen. There is, reproduced on page 8 of PoF
plate 36.
http://www.vertetsable.com/research_b181.htm
That is close to where the seams of this jerkin lie, but they are curved to
allow the centre front seam be as straight as it can be, even then it's
slightly curved. The ends of the seams don't lie so close to the point
though. The side back curve of the front panel is close to the jerkin
pattern as well. It's just a little more clearly shaped to the original
wearer. The side of the back panels are also slightly more curved than the
diagram above, though they are even more subtle than the front curves.

A gentle curve can help acheive a slightly smoother fit as it gives just
that little bit of stretch. Of course it's probably more noticeable in hand
sewn garments. I noticed it more while pinning than once I'd used my
machine.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: [h-cost] RE: new Simplicity Patterns 
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This is Simplicity. Where under the Victorian,Vintage, Undies section they
have a 1700s style dress pattern ([sarcasm]wow, I knew Victoria lived a long
life but not that long).
The catagory "Historical" does not necessarilly mean "authentic" but that it
is of a "historic" design.
De

-----Original Message-----
I love the "Authentic" renaissance costume, which has "curved" bodice seams.
AAACK!



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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet pattern from Simplicity
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Status: RO

I thought "Cavalier" referred to the " English" Civil War (though
reenactors of that period prefer to speak of Royalist/Parliamentarian
rather than Cavalier/Roundhead). The French word for "knight" is
"chevalier", though IIRC "cavalier" means "rider".

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> <AlbertCat@aol.com> 27/07/2006 00:49 >>>wrote:

And indeed, "Regency" as a costume period, is also just a label. What
does  
it mean outside England? The same is true for "Cavalier"...what does
that mean  
outside France....or really even IN France since the word just means 
"Knight"?  Or "Victorian"...which covers umpteen silhouettes and is ,
again "English". 
 Don't get me started on "Georgian"!
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Regency Patterns;
	Was free Regency bonnet pattern from Simpl...
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In a message dated 7/27/2006 1:14:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

You  could always teach them more advanced sewing   skills.




In what abundant spare time?????  I've taught sewing and flat pattern  
before, over a series of weeks (and gotten paid for it). I'm lucky to  be able to 
squeeze in a two or three hour single session once in a while right  now.  And 
this is usually on a volunteer basis.
 
Someone was offering a class at G Street a while back in which she would  
guide people through a period costume, but even then, you need a pattern to work  
with.  Hmmm, maybe I ought to suggest they offer that class again, and I  can 
refer people to it.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] free Regency bonnet pattern from Simplicity
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In a message dated 7/27/2006 4:12:13 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:

The  French word for "knight" is
"chevalier", though IIRC "cavalier" means  "rider".



Ooops...I knew that but....well, I don't speak French. I get similar words  
mixed up.
 
And the period "Cavalier" to me always seems French. I never think of it as  
English. Maybe the combination of Cromwell in England [not a place to look  
for "fashion"] and the Dumas novels steer me there.
 
 
Of course it makes sense for these period labels to refer to English  history 
when we're talking English speaking people...even in the US, up until  our 
independence... and beyond since we were still influenced so much by them.  [and 
of course because Victorian Englishmen was everywhere!]
 
Indeed, we think of "fashion" in western terms [you may thank me now for  
stating the obvious] but what's going on in Japan??? It's interesting how much  
influence China and the Orient have on western "fashion" [silk.... fer Christ  
sake!], but they usually get a passing nod and mention in history of fashion  
class [probably because there's so much to cover]. 
 
And what about Africa? Egypt is in Africa, y'know. The Moors were in Spain,  
but that influence doesn't seem to spread like wildfire. Perhaps the nature of 
 the Church there was the hindrance. But West African clothes are beautiful  
and exotic, And extremely comfortable, as MC Hammer found out in the early  
80s.....
 
OK...I'm rambling. So many subjects....so little  time....
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From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:History Channel
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Hey, don't blame reenactors for these.  ("Revolutionary War/Pirates)!!!
   
  The history Channel is taking a big beating on the reenactor lists for these two offering in particular...
   
  I watched the pirates.  every blessed pirate has a fake irish accent, including the ones from the Carolinas!!, AND the entire british navy has that same accent.  the costumes fall into that generic time period of "YORE"  It make it hard to get beyond that and find something that's worthwhile in the show
   
  Now i know that I'm a bit pickier that the run of the mill folks when it comes to accuracy, but I love Pyrates of the Carribean and thought the costuming added, rather than detracted, even though it was not 100% accurate.
   
  I can't watch the revolution either, it's to too boring, and I really like that period.  Many of the extras are people I know or at least recognize.   I also recognize some of the principal actors costumes, they are rented from folks I know....but the wigs!!!  Someone said the actors look like they have badgers on their heads, that is in many cases complementary....  It saddens me that things like this get promoted as "Grade A" work...NEW REFRESHING EXCITING.  and it's just not. The potential for good costumes and interesting writing and accurate history exists.  and most people would be glad to lend their knowledge.  It doesn't cost more to do it right.  
   
  But we've all ranted in this fashion before, it's just my particular hobby horse...
   
  Enough ranting from
  18th C Mia in Charlotte, NC
   

 		
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Subject: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make to
	wear in the heat?
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OK, this is not /strictly/ historic - although I could argue they're 'traditional' ;-)
 
Anyway, I'm trying to adapt a Burda pattern to be more like traditional thai fisherman 'wrap' trousers, which are open at the outer sides (and therefore cooler to wear and hang nicely) and wondered if anyone had tried making a pair based on originals they had purchased perhaps on holiday. 
 
The thing I'm a bit unclear on is how the ties work around the waist, to hold them up and fit them at the waist: the Burda pattern is a bit tailored whereas the originals are 'free-size'.  I found a few references on the web, in case you've no idea what I'm talking about.
 
http://www.thiptop.co.uk/index.php?page=trousers-split
http://www.thaicraftwarehouse.com/tcwProduct.php?fashid=9329
 
Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably toasty weather? 
 
Katherine
 
"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
 
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From: Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make
	to	wear in the heat?
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I have a pattern draft for a pair of these that I can scan and send you - they are a very simple thing. Many moons ago I had a pair of these in a lovely black rayon with giant bannanas printed on them. Very chic. :-)

Email me off list if you are interested.

Sheridan P.

> 
> From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
> Date: 2006/07/27 Thu PM 12:43:18 EST
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make to
> 	wear in the heat?
> 
> OK, this is not /strictly/ historic - although I could argue they're 'traditional' ;-)
>  
> Anyway, I'm trying to adapt a Burda pattern to be more like traditional thai fisherman 'wrap' trousers, which are open at the outer sides (and therefore cooler to wear and hang nicely) and wondered if anyone had tried making a pair based on originals they had purchased perhaps on holiday. 
>  
> The thing I'm a bit unclear on is how the ties work around the waist, to hold them up and fit them at the waist: the Burda pattern is a bit tailored whereas the originals are 'free-size'.  I found a few references on the web, in case you've no idea what I'm talking about.
>  
> http://www.thiptop.co.uk/index.php?page=trousers-split
> http://www.thaicraftwarehouse.com/tcwProduct.php?fashid=9329
>  
> Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably toasty weather? 
>  
> Katherine
>  
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>  
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you
	make to wear in the heat?
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At 17:43 27/07/2006, you wrote:
>OK, this is not /strictly/ historic - although I could argue they're 
>'traditional' ;-)
>
>Anyway, I'm trying to adapt a Burda pattern to be more like 
>traditional thai fisherman 'wrap' trousers, which are open at the 
>outer sides (and therefore cooler to wear and hang nicely) and 
>wondered if anyone had tried making a pair based on originals they 
>had purchased perhaps on holiday.
>
>The thing I'm a bit unclear on is how the ties work around the 
>waist, to hold them up and fit them at the waist: the Burda pattern 
>is a bit tailored whereas the originals are 'free-size'.  I found a 
>few references on the web, in case you've no idea what I'm talking about.
>
>http://www.thiptop.co.uk/index.php?page=trousers-split
>http://www.thaicraftwarehouse.com/tcwProduct.php?fashid=9329
>
>Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably 
>toasty weather?
>
>Katherine


Folkwear have re-published their pattern for these kinds of trousers.

They are simply the front and back of a pair of very wide-legged 
trousers, joined at the crotch and inside legs only. You then take 
the back part, and tie them round the front - I actually use hooks 
and eyes here. Pick up the front part and tie them at the back, 
overlapping the back at the sides. (You can do this the other way 
around - I find this way easiest.)

I made my pair from an old pair of trousers, and just widened the 
side seams, but I went a bit too far, and even on me, an English size 
24 there is too much fabric in the legs!

Suzi

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http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2004/07/13/1089694357136.html?from=storyrh
s

anybody we know going to this?
Betsy (in too far away texas)


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Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 15:00:43 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:History Channel
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In a message dated 7/27/2006 12:44:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com writes:

It  saddens me that things like this get promoted as "Grade A" work...NEW  
REFRESHING EXCITING.  and it's just not. The potential for good costumes  and 
interesting writing and accurate history exists.


And that is the issue, I think.  The War of 1812 production on the  History 
Channel was a little disappointing, too--not really awful, but just not  as 
good as I was expecting.  With the resources of the History Channel, and  the 
Ph.D. historian consultants they tout, and of course their advertising, we  
expect everything to be top notch!
 
Ann Wass
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If the date is correct, it's already happened. Must have been fascinating,
though. Like going to a museum where you can touch.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Betsy Marshall
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:15 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] Theatre sale in Australia


http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2004/07/13/1089694357136.html?from=storyrh
s

anybody we know going to this?
Betsy (in too far away texas)


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you
	maketowear in the heat?
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 13:27:50 -0700
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I make baggy pants like the 2nd pattern offered, and I love them. I get to
buy wild fabric and wear it almost immediately, as I make them with no side
seam, just the crotch and center seams. Better than a tablecloth, which is
what I did with wild fabric in the past. Also extremely comfortable. I put
elastic in mine, but my daughter prefers a drawstring.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Betsy Marshall
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:22 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you
maketowear in the heat?


This might help a bit..

http://www.mediatinker.com/blog/archives/008262.html


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of katherine sanders
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:43 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make towear
in the heat?

OK, this is not /strictly/ historic - although I could argue they're
'traditional' ;-)
 
Anyway, I'm trying to adapt a Burda pattern to be more like traditional thai
fisherman 'wrap' trousers, which are open at the outer sides (and therefore
cooler to wear and hang nicely) and wondered if anyone had tried making a
pair based on originals they had purchased perhaps on holiday. 
 
The thing I'm a bit unclear on is how the ties work around the waist, to
hold them up and fit them at the waist: the Burda pattern is a bit tailored
whereas the originals are 'free-size'.  I found a few references on the web,
in case you've no idea what I'm talking about.
 
http://www.thiptop.co.uk/index.php?page=trousers-split
http://www.thaicraftwarehouse.com/tcwProduct.php?fashid=9329
 
Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably toasty
weather? 
 
Katherine
 
"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do youmake to
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Status: RO

I have seen it done also where people have sort of extended the bottom hem of the pants to make ties at the ankles so that the legs don't flap open or get in the way.

Natalie

  >Anyway, I'm trying to adapt a Burda pattern to be more like 
  >traditional thai fisherman 'wrap' trousers, which are open at the 
  >outer sides (and therefore cooler to wear and hang nicely) and 
  >wondered if anyone had tried making a pair based on originals they 
  >had purchased perhaps on holiday.


  Folkwear have re-published their pattern for these kinds of trousers.

  They are simply the front and back of a pair of very wide-legged 
  trousers, joined at the crotch and inside legs only. You then take 
  the back part, and tie them round the front - I actually use hooks 
  and eyes here. Pick up the front part and tie them at the back, 
  overlapping the back at the sides. (You can do this the other way 
  around - I find this way easiest.)

  I made my pair from an old pair of trousers, and just widened the 
  side seams, but I went a bit too far, and even on me, an English size 
  24 there is too much fabric in the legs!

  Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity Regency Patterns
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Okay, I'll pipe in... I actually walked a group of Ann's volunteers through a patterning class about two years ago - to make a custom pattern with that diamond back.  Lots of research before hand, and started with a sloper.  I found it easy to do and my mock up was great - the down side was that as much as these people wanted to learn, many lacked the sewing skills to do it.  I do own the S&S patterns, although I tend to buy these (and the historically accurate patterns) and then use them as jumping points to recreate originals.  I have a feeling that if there were tutorials out there on how to adjust your Simplicity Regency patterns to make a diamond back that people would use them. Until then, most will just go the easiest route, and aside from the expensive but well researched Past Patterns dress, most will just make this one....  
   
  Sarah Nucci

 		
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT Thai Fisherman trousers
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>Email me off list if you are interested.
>Sheridan P.

Thanks - will do!

>They are simply the front and back of a pair of very wide-legged trousers, joined at the crotch and >inside legs only. You then take the back part, and tie them round the front - I actually use hooks and eyes >here. Pick up the front part and tie them at the back, overlapping the back at the sides. (You can do this the >other way around - I find this way easiest.)
>Suzi

That explains everything - thanks again! I'm going to find some cheapo stuff to practice on and some nice linen to make smarter ones... 

>I have seen it done also where people have sort of extended the bottom hem of the pants to make ties at the >ankles so that the legs don't flap open or get in the way.
>Natalie

Now there's a thought! Can immediately think of /several/ situations where my Scottish pale-blue thigh would not be an appropriate thing to flash....
 
Thanks to all for your help, amazingly useful and informative as always. I know it's quite cheap to buy them but that feels like a bit of a cop out, somehow!
 
Katherine (in front of a fan with feet in a basin of cold water. ohhhhh that's better...)
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Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 15:06:24 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] pourpoint
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>Hi there,
> does anybody know a book or web page or anything where I can find some info
>on making (drafting a pattern and instructions on sewing) a medieval
pourpoint? >Thanks:-)

Zuzana,
The only one I know of is Jeanne d'Arc, ses costumes, son armeur by A.
Harmand, circa 1928 IIRC. The pictures in the book are straight from
the BNF and very very good tho in B/W.  The Musee de Tissue, Lyon
France has several articles on the de Blois pourpoint. You can
purchase copies.  Of course, none of these sources are useful if you
dont read modern French.  Harmand's research is very early in the
field of costume and makes quite a few assumptions that modern
researchers wouldnt.  Her quotations from comtemporary docs is
excellent.  It's a good early work. I do not recommend following her
methods for re-creation, if you're into serious "chapter & verse"
methodology.
As for technique, I wouldnt draft a patt. I'd would (and have done
several now) create the patt by draping.  The Jeanne d'Arc book has a
croquis of the pourpoint (copied many websites).  I found it useful
for determining seams, grainlines, openings, etc.
Search the h-cost archives for pourpoint, Charles de Blois.  I know
I've posted about this alot and there was some interesting discussion
on stuffings, 14th c quilting techniques, and the mysterious powder
put in Jeanne d'Arc's pourpoint.

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/blois.html
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT - what do you make to beat the heat
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> Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably toasty weather?

I have a favorite vintage 1969 "scooter skirt" pattern that I found a
few years ago when a vintage pattern library in Rhode Island was
selling off excess stock.  I tried to find it on
http://www.oldpatterns.com, but Misch is out of stock on it currently.
 It's SImplicity 8397, view 5, tho look carefully, as Simplicity
re-used the number on a different 1-hour shorts pattern.  Modernly,
scooter skirts are called "skorts", which sounds horrible, but is an
excellent combo of skirt& shorts.

I just bought lots of yardage to make some more.  One print has French
perfume bottles, another is Poiret fashion drawings from 1913 or so,
another is the Tour Eiffel repeated all-over... and about 7 more
selections.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Going to GenCon
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Dawn & I were wondering if anyone else on h-costume is going to
GenCon. We *cant* be the only gamer-costumers around.  There's LARPs
historical & fantasy and a costume contest to see.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to GenCon
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Oh I am an old gamer girl... since 1978 I think its been, lots of different games, and currently still in an AD&D tabletop. I've always wanted to go to a GenCon, but hadn't been able to afford the trek east, and the last one in LA I didn't know about until the weekend of.
   
  Hmmm... looking at their website, LA GenCon is in November. I might be able to go to that one, and drag friends (like the guys need to be dragged to any gaming convention.)
   
  Enjoy yourselves!
   
  Kimiko
  

Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
  Dawn & I were wondering if anyone else on h-costume is going to
GenCon. We *cant* be the only gamer-costumers around. There's LARPs
historical & fantasy and a costume contest to see.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make
	towear in the heat?
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 13:21:51 -0500
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Status: RO

This might help a bit..

http://www.mediatinker.com/blog/archives/008262.html


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of katherine sanders
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:43 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make towear
in the heat?

OK, this is not /strictly/ historic - although I could argue they're
'traditional' ;-)
 
Anyway, I'm trying to adapt a Burda pattern to be more like traditional thai
fisherman 'wrap' trousers, which are open at the outer sides (and therefore
cooler to wear and hang nicely) and wondered if anyone had tried making a
pair based on originals they had purchased perhaps on holiday. 
 
The thing I'm a bit unclear on is how the ties work around the waist, to
hold them up and fit them at the waist: the Burda pattern is a bit tailored
whereas the originals are 'free-size'.  I found a few references on the web,
in case you've no idea what I'm talking about.
 
http://www.thiptop.co.uk/index.php?page=trousers-split
http://www.thaicraftwarehouse.com/tcwProduct.php?fashid=9329
 
Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably toasty
weather? 
 
Katherine
 
"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
 
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Oops- when I read all the way to the end- July 14th was the sale. Drat.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Betsy Marshall
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 1:15 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] Theatre sale in Australia

http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2004/07/13/1089694357136.html?from=storyrh
s

anybody we know going to this?
Betsy (in too far away texas)


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - what do you make to beat the heat
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>>Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably toasty 
>>weather?

Mini-dress-length t-shirt I didn't have to sew.  It's good for around the 
house and not anywhere else.  For going someplace, add jeans and shoes.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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> anybody we know going to this?
> Betsy (in too far away texas)


Nah, they've done sell-offs like this in the past. You might find a bargain but 
a lot of stuff is in shocking disrepair and has been out on fancy dress hire 
for years, the company's main focus over recent years,


-C.


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From: "Nancy Kiel" <nancy_kiel@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Regency Patterns;
	Was free Regency bonnet patternfrom Simpl...
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 06:28:28 -0400
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I have to disagree with this part of your statement----I'm smaller at the 
bust than at the hips, and the Regency look is VERY unflattering for me!

Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.





>
>Well actually, I think women's "real" Regency is one of the easiest 
>historic periods to sew, and not that hard to fit either.  It's also 
>comfortable to wear, it looks good on almost everyone, and it's often 
>fairly inexpensive to make.
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press
>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>

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From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: History Channel/Simplicity
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  Message: 5
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 15:00:43 EDT
From: AnnBWass@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:History Channel
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 7/27/2006 12:44:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com writes:

It saddens me that things like this get promoted as "Grade A" work...NEW 
REFRESHING EXCITING. and it's just not. The potential for good costumes and 
interesting writing and accurate history exists.


And that is the issue, I think. The War of 1812 production on the History 
Channel was a little disappointing, too--not really awful, but just not as 
good as I was expecting. With the resources of the History Channel, and the 
Ph.D. historian consultants they tout, and of course their advertising, we 
expect everything to be top notch!

Ann Wass


  Usually I dont' take exception to anything the History Channel does, much like simplicity and other main-stream historical patterns, it gets people interested in in stuff ...history/costumes/historic dressing.
   
  Some people stay at that Costume/History Channel level, but it hooks some others and they go onto details of History beyond the Modren Marvels or 18c cent beyond the bicentennial look.  Like most addicts, I love to see other people turned on by what I'm addicted to
   
  I just wish there were some way of identifing the different levels, and I probably shouldn't worry about that, because most of the people I talk to, seem to have a somewhat discerning eye for the difference between a "Farby Barbie" and a well researched garment
   
  Plus which nobody would watch if they said it was "just for entertainment" or "here's a ripping yarn" or something along those lines.  Though the pattern companies seem to be able to deal with it intellegently and sincerely, with Halloween Costumes vs. Costume Historian lines and reenactor suitable vs. fantasy garments pretty clearly identified.
   
  Your e-corespondent, Ranting thinking Mia in Hot HOT Charlotte (though not as bad as California right now...but our air is worse!)

 		
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Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 12:13:58 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:History Channel
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I feel badly that the people at the HC are being ripped. They have a limited
budget, it is difficult to get permission to film in some of the real sites
and many times their actors are the reinactors that "do" a period-- unpaid,
but not stars or people who have anything to say about scripts, production
values, etc.. Not to mention that costumes are usually rented from a costume
house that is more interested in genaric than specialty work. And then there
are time constraints...

I have a friend who is set to do a Civil War program for the HC. Who knows
what it will be like, but he is working with people who know the period. My
husband is slated to play a soldier-- no lines, or he would have to be payed
Equity scale.

We were in Philadelphia this past November and visited the USS Olympia,
Admiral Dewey'S flagship. As we followed the electrical cables aboard and
passed a cabin filled with men in uniforms of the period (Spanish American
War) we were informed that the HC was doing a documentary on the SA War. It
was very exciting-- the air was filled with smoke from a "fire" or a
battle-- but we couldn't see it because it was cordoned off for filming. The
people were really helpful, and the technical people put up with us
tourists,  and we hooked up with one ofthe reinactors who have a a tour that
was not to be believed ! We got to stand on the bridge, and got to see the
crow's nesy, which was rusted and needed repair. Most people don't get to
see half that stuff...

Anyhoo... unless you have ever been directly involved with a production you
don't know the limitations put on a director by the chanel, the director
etc.
It is not as easy as you may think.

Monica Spence



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 3:01 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:History Channel



In a message dated 7/27/2006 12:44:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com writes:

It  saddens me that things like this get promoted as "Grade A" work...NEW
REFRESHING EXCITING.  and it's just not. The potential for good costumes
and
interesting writing and accurate history exists.


And that is the issue, I think.  The War of 1812 production on the  History
Channel was a little disappointing, too--not really awful, but just not  as
good as I was expecting.  With the resources of the History Channel, and
the
Ph.D. historian consultants they tout, and of course their advertising, we
expect everything to be top notch!

Ann Wass
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make to
	wear in the heat
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These remind me of a pair of pants my mother made for me years ago for a Christmas party. They were yellow "silk" with a blue print of giraffes and such. I looked on the Patterns from the Past site and found two possibilities for the one she used.
   
  Both are from 1972 - 
  Simplicity 5124 wrap and tie shorts and pants,
  and Butterick 6720 - wrap and go pantskirt.
   
  I really liked them and don't remember my legs showing at all, so it probably was the butterick that she used. The term "pantskirt" does sound familiar.
   
  btw - I had not heard of that website before, thanks Cynthia!

Message: 10
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 15:28:27 -0700
From: Cin 
Subject: [h-cost] OT - what do you make to beat the heat

> Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably toasty weather?

I have a favorite vintage 1969 "scooter skirt" pattern that I found a
few years ago when a vintage pattern library in Rhode Island was
selling off excess stock. I tried to find it on
http://www.oldpatterns.com, but Misch is out of stock on it currently.
It's SImplicity 8397, view 5, tho look carefully, as Simplicity
re-used the number on a different 1-hour shorts pattern. Modernly,
scooter skirts are called "skorts", which sounds horrible, but is an
excellent combo of skirt& shorts.

I just bought lots of yardage to make some more. One print has French
perfume bottles, another is Poiret fashion drawings from 1913 or so,
another is the Tour Eiffel repeated all-over... and about 7 more
selections.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

  Message: 2
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 13:21:51 -0500
From: "Betsy Marshall" 
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you
make towear in the heat?

This might help a bit..

http://www.mediatinker.com/blog/archives/008262.html


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of katherine sanders
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:43 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make towear
in the heat?

OK, this is not /strictly/ historic - although I could argue they're
'traditional' ;-)

Anyway, I'm trying to adapt a Burda pattern to be more like traditional thai
fisherman 'wrap' trousers, which are open at the outer sides (and therefore
cooler to wear and hang nicely) and wondered if anyone had tried making a
pair based on originals they had purchased perhaps on holiday. 

The thing I'm a bit unclear on is how the ties work around the waist, to
hold them up and fit them at the waist: the Burda pattern is a bit tailored
whereas the originals are 'free-size'. I found a few references on the web,
in case you've no idea what I'm talking about.

http://www.thiptop.co.uk/index.php?page=trousers-split
http://www.thaicraftwarehouse.com/tcwProduct.php?fashid=9329

Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably toasty
weather? 

Katherine

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 21:39:50 +0000 (GMT)
From: katherine sanders 
Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT Thai Fisherman trousers

>Email me off list if you are interested.
>Sheridan P.

Thanks - will do!

>They are simply the front and back of a pair of very wide-legged trousers, joined at the crotch and >inside legs only. You then take the back part, and tie them round the front - I actually use hooks and eyes >here. Pick up the front part and tie them at the back, overlapping the back at the sides. (You can do this the >other way around - I find this way easiest.)
>Suzi

That explains everything - thanks again! I'm going to find some cheapo stuff to practice on and some nice linen to make smarter ones... 

>I have seen it done also where people have sort of extended the bottom hem of the pants to make ties at the >ankles so that the legs don't flap open or get in the way.
>Natalie

Now there's a thought! Can immediately think of /several/ situations where my Scottish pale-blue thigh would not be an appropriate thing to flash....

Thanks to all for your help, amazingly useful and informative as always. I know it's quite cheap to buy them but that feels like a bit of a cop out, somehow!

Katherine (in front of a fan with feet in a basin of cold water. ohhhhh that's better...)



 		
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monica spence wrote:
> I feel badly that the people at the HC are being ripped. They have a limited
> budget, it is difficult to get permission to film in some of the real sites
> and many times their actors are the reinactors that "do" a period-- unpaid,
> but not stars or people who have anything to say about scripts, production
> values, etc.. Not to mention that costumes are usually rented from a costume
> house that is more interested in genaric than specialty work. And then there
> are time constraints...

I had an interesting chat with one of the guys who did the costuming for 
the Revolutionary War series on HC. From the sounds of it, the producers 
left the costuming entirely to the unpaid actors...

quote: "I do not-for-profit living history demonstrations.  I started 
with The Revolutionary War time period.  I could not afford to buy 
clothing so I learned how to make my own, by hand.  I researched 
historical garments and began making them with historical construction 
techniques.  Soon I started and outfitted an entire re-enacting group.
I served as the Historical Advisor on the new 13 Episode History Channel
series on the Revolution, which will air this summer.  Not only did I
review the scripts and coach the producers, writers and actors but I
also made most of the clothing worn in the production (hand made museum
quality pieces).  The wardrobe people came with nothing and knew nothing
(actually they are Civil War specialists).  They will be creditted with
wardrobe but, oh well, at least things are accurate now."

endquote

So, someone did try.


Dawn


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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] fulling wool fabric
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Hi all, can anyone give me some hints on fulling a small bit of wool?
I'm  starting with a piece about 11 inch square, it's light weight as
well (tropical suit weight?).

I was hoping to be able to do this by hand, but I'm not sure I'm doing
it right.  I put it in hot water (dishwashing hot) with dish soap,
scrubbed a couple minute on the roasting pan - nice ridges like an old
fashion washing board, then I switched to cold water and did the same,
once without soap at this stage and once with the soap.  I've measured
along the way and none of the dimensions have changed.

I've fulled wool flannel before in the washing machine, but I was
hoping to not have to run a full load for this little scrap (my washer
only allows for full loads, no adjustments there and I rarely wash my
clothes on the hot water that I've used before that got results)

So is there some trick/step I missed or could I possible have some
wool that's been treated not to full?

alex
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fulling wool fabric
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Sounds like the wool is not going to full. Tropical weight often is that way, while flannel is more likely to full in my experience.
   
  Sorry,
   
  Kimiko
  

Alexandria Doyle <garbaholic@gmail.com> wrote:
    <snip>
So is there some trick/step I missed or could I possible have some
wool that's been treated not to full?

alex

   

 			
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Regency Patterns; Was free Regency bonnet patternfrom
	Simpl...
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I think I said they look good on "almost" everyone.

Fran

Nancy Kiel wrote:

> 
> I have to disagree with this part of your statement----I'm smaller at 
> the bust than at the hips, and the Regency look is VERY unflattering for 
> me!
> 
> Nancy Kiel
> nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
> Never tease a weasel!
> This is very good advice.
> For the weasel will not like it
> And teasing isn't nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>>
>> Well actually, I think women's "real" Regency is one of the easiest 
>> historic periods to sew, and not that hard to fit either.  It's also 
>> comfortable to wear, it looks good on almost everyone, and it's often 
>> fairly inexpensive to make.
>>
>> Fran
>> Lavolta Press
>> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
>>
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
> http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
> 
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> Dawn & I were wondering if anyone else on h-costume is going to
> GenCon. We *cant* be the only gamer-costumers around.  There's 
> LARPs
> historical & fantasy and a costume contest to see.
> --cin

Going, but won't have time for much sightseeing -- I'm signed up to run
32 hours of games as part of the Hero Games demo team.

(This is of course assuming the ************ on staff at GenCon ever get
my GM badge to me.  Less than two weeks, people ....)

Leah
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fulling wool fabric
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At 12:01 PM 7/28/2006, you wrote:
>Hi all, can anyone give me some hints on fulling a small bit of wool?
>I'm  starting with a piece about 11 inch square, it's light weight as
>well (tropical suit weight?).
>
>I was hoping to be able to do this by hand, but I'm not sure I'm doing
>it right.  I put it in hot water (dishwashing hot) with dish soap,
>scrubbed a couple minute on the roasting pan - nice ridges like an old
>fashion washing board, then I switched to cold water and did the same,
>once without soap at this stage and once with the soap.  I've measured
>along the way and none of the dimensions have changed.
>
>I've fulled wool flannel before in the washing machine, but I was
>hoping to not have to run a full load for this little scrap (my washer
>only allows for full loads, no adjustments there and I rarely wash my
>clothes on the hot water that I've used before that got results)
>
>So is there some trick/step I missed or could I possible have some
>wool that's been treated not to full?
>
>alex

Your description sounds like you know what you are doing, and the 
wool should have fulled if it was going to.  So it may just be made 
from a wool that doesn't full well (whether it's been treated with 
something, or is just worsted-spun, or is a particularly unfullable 
variety of wool).


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: "Becky Rautine" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:History Channel
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 15:59:18 -0400
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I think that the history channel is focused on the OVERVIEW of a subject not 
the absolutely historically correct COSTUME or dress of the story. That is 
their main issue. Sometimes they do fudge that area because it is a lesser 
part of any program... in this setup. If they are concerned with the 
costuming, then it must be more important. Viewers need to keep that in 
mind.
I love wathcing the History Channel to get information. How the show is made 
helps get that point across. I usually pick such movies like some of the 
postings, but I've learned to enjoy the shows instead of looking just for 
mistakes. Such critical vision can lead to missing the overall points. No , 
I would n't like to see Julius Caesar in something that wasn't period, but 
as long as the issue is covered, I don't care if his toga was draped over 
his right shoulder or left... as long as he has one.

Sincerely,
Becky Rautine




From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:History Channel
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FILETIME=[237FFCC0:01C6B261]

I feel badly that the people at the HC are being ripped. They have a limited
budget, it is difficult to get permission to film in some of the real sites
and many times their actors are the reinactors that "do" a period-- unpaid,
but not stars or people who have anything to say about scripts, production
values, etc.. Not to mention that costumes are usually rented from a costume
house that is more interested in genaric than specialty work. And then there
are time constraints...

I have a friend who is set to do a Civil War program for the HC. Who knows
what it will be like, but he is working with people who know the period. My
husband is slated to play a soldier-- no lines, or he would have to be payed
Equity scale.

We were in Philadelphia this past November and visited the USS Olympia,
Admiral Dewey'S flagship. As we followed the electrical cables aboard and
passed a cabin filled with men in uniforms of the period (Spanish American
War) we were informed that the HC was doing a documentary on the SA War. It
was very exciting-- the air was filled with smoke from a "fire" or a
battle-- but we couldn't see it because it was cordoned off for filming. The
people were really helpful, and the technical people put up with us
tourists,  and we hooked up with one ofthe reinactors who have a a tour that
was not to be believed ! We got to stand on the bridge, and got to see the
crow's nesy, which was rusted and needed repair. Most people don't get to
see half that stuff...

Anyhoo... unless you have ever been directly involved with a production you
don't know the limitations put on a director by the chanel, the director
etc.
It is not as easy as you may think.

Monica Spence



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 3:01 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:History Channel



In a message dated 7/27/2006 12:44:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com writes:

It  saddens me that things like this get promoted as "Grade A" work...NEW
REFRESHING EXCITING.  and it's just not. The potential for good costumes
and
interesting writing and accurate history exists.


And that is the issue, I think.  The War of 1812 production on the  History
Channel was a little disappointing, too--not really awful, but just not  as
good as I was expecting.  With the resources of the History Channel, and
the
Ph.D. historian consultants they tout, and of course their advertising, we
expect everything to be top notch!

Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:History Channel
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In a message dated 7/28/2006 4:00:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
zeartiste@hotmail.com writes:

think  that the history channel is focused on the OVERVIEW of a subject not 
the  absolutely historically correct COSTUME or dress of the  story.


My reservations about the War of 1812 program were not primarily costume  
ones--some of the historical facts were wrong.
 
Ann Wass
 
PS  As I still don't have cable or DirectTV, I don't watch the History  
Channel regularly, so really cannot judge their overall  quality.
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Remove me from mailing lists. Later on I may wish to get them again just 
right now i do not have time for them all.

Sincerely,
Becky Rautine


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:History Channel
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In a message dated 7/28/2006 4:00:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
zeartiste@hotmail.com writes:

I think  that the history channel is focused on the OVERVIEW of a subject not 
the  absolutely historically correct COSTUME or dress of the story. That is  
their main issue
{snip}
 

How the show is made 
helps get that point across.
 
***************************
 
That is all well and good. But this "REAL P's of the C" thing was  98% 
reenactments. I mean it was the whole shebang. And for the reenactments to  be so 
important AND the costuming to be so bad...I mean more than  bad...completely 
unprofessional! Well, there no excuse. That's my  point, really.
 
It's like historic houses with bad costumes. Sometimes they just can't  
afford to do it correctly...y'know if the house is out in the boonies of LA or  SC. 
I understand. But if it's a big deal with money, they should get it  right.
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fulling wool fabric
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> Your description sounds like you know what you are doing, and the
> wool should have fulled if it was going to.  So it may just be made
> from a wool that doesn't full well (whether it's been treated with
> something, or is just worsted-spun, or is a particularly unfullable
> variety of wool).
>
>

Thanks, I guess I have to try a bit of the flannel then, I have to dye
it as well, so I was hoping not to have to use that - it's hot pink
and I need black.

Off to clean out the dying pot,

alex
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Leah L Watts wrote:

> Going, but won't have time for much sightseeing -- I'm signed up to run
> 32 hours of games as part of the Hero Games demo team.
> 
> (This is of course assuming the ************ on staff at GenCon ever get
> my GM badge to me.  Less than two weeks, people ....)
> 

I haven't been able to get mine yet, either, I expect I'll have to hit 
the registration desk when I get there.

Perhaps we can meet up for a quick dinner one evening? I'm running 24 
hours worth of events myself, but it looks like Friday could be good....




Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Regency Patterns;
	Was free Regency bonnet patternfrom Simpl...
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In a message dated 7/28/2006 3:28:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

.


> 
> I have to disagree with this part of your  statement----I'm smaller at 
> the bust than at the hips, and the  Regency look is VERY unflattering for 
> me!
> 
############
 
I think I said they look good on "almost" everyone
 
***********************
 
You could use some "fascinators" y'know....a little padding up top. That  
would of course be perfectly period.
And of course one of the most beautiful things about the period are hips  
showing occasionally under the moving, light fabric of the skirt. That's why I  
like a full corset under the look. That and the high bust a corset gives.





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fulling wool fabric
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Especially if it's a worsted.
It sounds like the original poster is doing something quite similar to what
I do to felt my knitted flat caps--lots of soap, and alternating between
shocking the cr@p out of it with very hot water and very cold water.  I've
primarily used vigorous rubbing to achieve the agitation part, but someone
on a list I'm on actually recommended getting an inexpensive toilet plunger
(carefully marked for fabric use only!), and using that to agitate one's
fabric/knitting/project.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fulling wool fabric


> Sounds like the wool is not going to full. Tropical weight often is that
way, while flannel is more likely to full in my experience.
>
>   Sorry,
>
>   Kimiko
>
>
> Alexandria Doyle <garbaholic@gmail.com> wrote:
>     <snip>
> So is there some trick/step I missed or could I possible have some
> wool that's been treated not to full?
>
> alex
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> See the all-new, redesigned Yahoo.com.  Check it out.
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Vanity not-so Fair
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And speaking of bad Regency....
I'm staying with a friend who has HBO [I don't] and "Vanity Fair" is  
on....and I'm half watching it while we eat, and clean up and putter  about.
The Ball scene cracked me up! Who designed it? The animation dept at Warner  
Bro's? It looks like a cartoon. In fact, the whole art direction resembles  
Carnival in Rio. Everything is red, or bright purple....or both.  Yuck.
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fulling wool fabric
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That would explain it then.  I did switch to some wool flannel that
was also going to need some dying.  So I put the dye pot on the stove
with my strip of flannel, let the color get to where I wanted it to,
then started the rinsing it in cold water and rubbing against the
broiler pan.  there was another dip back into the hot water of the dye
pot and rinse again in color water.

Fulled and dyed and as soon as it dries, it will be ready to cut up
for little doll shoes.

Anybody have recommendations on the style of shoe a German girl of the
mid to late 16th century  would wear?

alex

On 7/28/06, Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
> Especially if it's a worsted.
> It sounds like the original poster is doing something quite similar to what
> I do to felt my knitted flat caps--lots of soap, and alternating between
> shocking the cr@p out of it with very hot water and very cold water.  I've
> primarily used vigorous rubbing to achieve the agitation part, but someone
> on a list I'm on actually recommended getting an inexpensive toilet plunger
> (carefully marked for fabric use only!), and using that to agitate one's
> fabric/knitting/project.
> --Sue
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 1:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] fulling wool fabric
>
>
> > Sounds like the wool is not going to full. Tropical weight often is that
> way, while flannel is more likely to full in my experience.
> >
> >   Sorry,
> >
> >   Kimiko
> >
> >
> > Alexandria Doyle <garbaholic@gmail.com> wrote:
> >     <snip>
> > So is there some trick/step I missed or could I possible have some
> > wool that's been treated not to full?
> >
> > alex
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > See the all-new, redesigned Yahoo.com.  Check it out.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 19:58:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make
	to wear in the heat
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Ahh yes, I remember the wrap and go pantskirt.  I also
remember fighting to keep them off the dirty floor of
the women's restroom.  Not the easiest of garments to
deal with in a confined space.  Although, now that I
think on it, I believe I was also wearing one of those
stupid bodysuits that snapped in the crotch.  What
were we thinking???? 

--- Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com> wrote:
   
>   Both are from 1972 - 
>   Simplicity 5124 wrap and tie shorts and pants,
>   and Butterick 6720 - wrap and go pantskirt.
>    
>   I really liked them and don't remember my legs
> showing at all, so it probably was the butterick
> that she used. The term "pantskirt" does sound
> familiar.


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul 28 23:26:41 2006
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: history channel
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Well, IMHO most of the programs on The History Channel are pretty bad. They
really make me appreciate PBS! Back when we got cable, my husband and I used
to call THC "The poor man's PBS" -- not because it was cheaper to get, which
it isn't because you have to pay for THC and PBS is free, but because the
programs are obviously made for next to nothing. They are also usually
sensationalized, at least the ones I've seen.

I'm not saying there aren't any good programs on TCH, but I'd say at least
half of them are cheap and poorly written.

Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates 
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Silly, very silly, animals in historic clothing:

http://www.mydeskcity.com/DZFG20.htm


I think they're desktops.



Dawn


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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates 
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Any idea what Queen Elizabeth is supposed to be, animal wise? I am not sure if it is a tortoise or what. But I do like the Froggy courtier. And I like Henry VIII and Jane Seymour. I like some others as well, but those are what I am involved in.
   
  Kimiko
  

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  
Silly, very silly, animals in historic clothing:

http://www.mydeskcity.com/DZFG20.htm


I think they're desktops.



Dawn


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From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates 
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She's a tortoise -- looking up toward the sky.  If you blow it up, you can see the beaky snout w/ the two little nostrils.  Poor Bess!  On the other hand, the hairline is right...
   
  KP
  

Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
  Any idea what Queen Elizabeth is supposed to be, animal wise? I am not sure if it is a tortoise or what. But I do like the Froggy courtier. And I like Henry VIII and Jane Seymour. I like some others as well, but those are what I am involved in.

Kimiko


Dawn wrote:

Silly, very silly, animals in historic clothing:

http://www.mydeskcity.com/DZFG20.htm


I think they're desktops.



Dawn


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The Italian Rhino-ssance pair is fab!!

Theresa Eacker


Dawn wrote:
>
>
> Silly, very silly, animals in historic clothing:
>
> http://www.mydeskcity.com/DZFG20.htm
>
>
> I think they're desktops.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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Sir Walter Raleigh gave her a frog pin, maybe that's supposed to be him.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kimiko Small
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 9:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates 


Any idea what Queen Elizabeth is supposed to be, animal wise? I am not sure
if it is a tortoise or what. But I do like the Froggy courtier. And I like
Henry VIII and Jane Seymour. I like some others as well, but those are what
I am involved in.
   
  Kimiko
  

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  
Silly, very silly, animals in historic clothing:

http://www.mydeskcity.com/DZFG20.htm


I think they're desktops.



Dawn


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In a message dated 7/28/2006 10:52:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

In fact,  the whole art direction resembles  
Carnival in Rio. Everything is  red, or bright purple....or both


I believe that is because the director is from India, and she wanted that  
aesthetic.
 
I never did see the movie--I wanted to read the book first, and by the time  
I finished it, it was gone from theaters.  Haven't cared enough to get it  on 
DVD.  I find all the characters pretty hard to take.
 
Ann Wass
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates 
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IIRC, The Frog is the prince or king or royal someone of France that she was supposedly being 'courted' by.  Never came to anything, since she had no intention of ever marrying... I'm sure someone on this list can get the french royalty' name I can't seem to remember right now.  

Elena/Gia 

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com> 

> Sir Walter Raleigh gave her a frog pin, maybe that's supposed to be him. 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On 
> Behalf Of Kimiko Small 
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 9:56 PM 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates 
> 
> 
> Any idea what Queen Elizabeth is supposed to be, animal wise? I am not sure 
> if it is a tortoise or what. But I do like the Froggy courtier. And I like 
> Henry VIII and Jane Seymour. I like some others as well, but those are what 
> I am involved in. 
> 
> Kimiko 
> 
> 
> Dawn wrote: 
> 
> Silly, very silly, animals in historic clothing: 
> 
> http://www.mydeskcity.com/DZFG20.htm 
> 
> 
> I think they're desktops. 
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates 
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2006 10:02:36 -0500
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Duke d'Alencon, whom Elizabeth would refer to him as her "Little Frog" In
1581 she announced that she would marry him but after a time he is alleged
to have gotten tired of the political side stepping with the marriage date
and went back to France.
De

-----Original Message-----
IIRC, The Frog is the prince or king or royal someone of France that she was
supposedly being 'courted' by.  Never came to anything, since she had no
intention of ever marrying... I'm sure someone on this list can get the
french royalty' name I can't seem to remember right now.

Elena/Gia


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 7/29/2006 8:00:55 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net writes:

IIRC,  The Frog is the prince or king or royal someone of France that she was 
 supposedly being 'courted' by.  Never came to anything, since she had no  
intention of ever marrying... I'm sure someone on this list can get the french  
royalty' name I can't seem to remember right now.  

Elena/Gia  



I've seen these in a book somewhere.  Like the historic fashion paper  doll 
books published by Dover and mainly illustrated by Tom Tierney.  If  anyone has 
the publisher, members of this list might be interested.  And I  don't recall 
any of it being in Japanese!  Which leads me to believe these  are scanned 
images from the book.  Copyright issues?
 
Cheryl Odom
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates
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The images are from a book.  I own it- somewhere in one of the boxes of 
books waiting to be unpacked.  I can't remember the title, but it came out 
at least twenty years ago.
                    -Helen/Aidan



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Alencon?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 6:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates 


IIRC, The Frog is the prince or king or royal someone of France that she was
supposedly being 'courted' by.  Never came to anything, since she had no
intention of ever marrying... I'm sure someone on this list can get the
french royalty' name I can't seem to remember right now.  

Elena/Gia 

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com> 

> Sir Walter Raleigh gave her a frog pin, maybe that's supposed to be 
> him.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On 
> Behalf Of Kimiko Small 
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 9:56 PM 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates 
> 
> 
> Any idea what Queen Elizabeth is supposed to be, animal wise? I am not 
> sure
> if it is a tortoise or what. But I do like the Froggy courtier. And I like

> Henry VIII and Jane Seymour. I like some others as well, but those are
what 
> I am involved in. 
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
> Dawn wrote:
> 
> Silly, very silly, animals in historic clothing:
> 
> http://www.mydeskcity.com/DZFG20.htm
> 
> 
> I think they're desktops.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 
> 
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http://www.bartleby.com/65/fr/FrancisFr.html

-----Original Message-----
Alencon?



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In a message dated 7/29/2006 9:56:22 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net writes:

Any idea  what Queen Elizabeth is supposed to be, animal wise?


****************************
 
She's a Turtle. I mean....of course! :-P
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vanity not-so Fair
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In a message dated 7/29/2006 7:23:53 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

I  believe that is because the director is from India, and she wanted that   
aesthetic.



**********************
 
Well that explains why the Indian costumes....like when they're in  
India....were the best.
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In a message dated 7/28/2006 11:28:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
gailscott@eos.net writes:

but I'd  say at least
half of them are cheap and poorly  written.



*****************
 
The half they produce. The other half were done by others....like old PBS  
productions....and bought.
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In a message dated 7/28/2006 11:43:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

_http://www.mydeskcity.com/DZFG20.htm_ (http://www.mydeskcity.com/DZFG20.htm) 




The Gothic mice are sooooo cute!
 
But my faves are the 18th century geese.
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Subject: [h-cost] little note.................
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Just a little note that  i am back on the list.
1.st i want to appoligise to all of you who conserned about me, it is very 
nice and very warm that you consern about me.
I am well, but i must admit that i have to gear down on myself, because 
mostly i get two familiar and also two envoved in everything.
Update is that i have struggled with myself, i am getting better now, but i 
really have to stop being two familliar with you guys, its something i have 
to learn.
I hope that its ben very booring while i have ben away, god knows its ben 
very boring here, and damned two hot, Europe has had one of the badest 
summers heatwise, we still have, and i pray it soon gets away.
I must tell you costume wise, that a very important exhibition is taking 
place in Copenhagen by all places in September, showing court fashions of 
men from 17th century to 18th century.
The earlyest Banyan 17th century is shown amungst many other unique things.
In the meanwhile i have almost finished my yellow waistcoat, i only need to 
assemble it to the backs, buttonholes and buttons worked:
   http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/2006suit.htm
And i hired Derek Easton to make me this wig:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig.htm
He made it, only i think he made the chignon two small, you will have to 
waite a little to see it, i have it but i need to take a photo with powdered 
face......................

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


_______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] little note.................
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At 12:16 PM 7/30/2006, you wrote:
>Just a little note that  i am back on the list.
>1.st i want to appoligise to all of you who conserned about me, it 
>is very nice and very warm that you consern about me.
>I am well, but i must admit that i have to gear down on myself, 
>because mostly i get two familiar and also two envoved in everything.
>Update is that i have struggled with myself, i am getting better 
>now, but i really have to stop being two familliar with you guys, 
>its something i have to learn.
>I hope that its ben very booring while i have ben away, god knows 
>its ben very boring here, and damned two hot, Europe has had one of 
>the badest summers heatwise, we still have, and i pray it soon gets away.
>I must tell you costume wise, that a very important exhibition is 
>taking place in Copenhagen by all places in September, showing court 
>fashions of men from 17th century to 18th century.
>The earlyest Banyan 17th century is shown amungst many other unique things.
>In the meanwhile i have almost finished my yellow waistcoat, i only 
>need to assemble it to the backs, buttonholes and buttons worked:
>   http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/2006suit.htm
>And i hired Derek Easton to make me this wig:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig.htm
>He made it, only i think he made the chignon two small, you will 
>have to waite a little to see it, i have it but i need to take a 
>photo with powdered face......................
>
>Bjarne

A beautiful job, as usual, Bjarne!  I like the way you describe what 
you are doing for each step.  It shows me techniques and ideas that I 
can use in my own sewing, though I am not doing anywhere near the 
amount of embroidery you are doing.

The weather here in California has just now cooled off from the 
11-day stretch of very hot weather (over 40C during the day and only 
cooling off to ~32C at night).  I hope you get relief from the hot 
weather soon.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 30 16:02:16 2006
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] little note.................
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Status: RO

I showed my daughter the pictures of your waistcoat and she echoed my
sentiments exactly, "Oh, my god, gorgeous!". As always, your work is
exquisite and an inspiration to the rest of us. Glad you're feeling better.
We've been having unusually hot weather here, also. I got out my hand fan
and am carrying it with me. Really helps!
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 12:17 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] little note.................


Just a little note that  i am back on the list.
1.st i want to appoligise to all of you who conserned about me, it is very 
nice and very warm that you consern about me.
I am well, but i must admit that i have to gear down on myself, because 
mostly i get two familiar and also two envoved in everything. Update is that
i have struggled with myself, i am getting better now, but i 
really have to stop being two familliar with you guys, its something i have 
to learn.
I hope that its ben very booring while i have ben away, god knows its ben 
very boring here, and damned two hot, Europe has had one of the badest 
summers heatwise, we still have, and i pray it soon gets away. I must tell
you costume wise, that a very important exhibition is taking 
place in Copenhagen by all places in September, showing court fashions of 
men from 17th century to 18th century.
The earlyest Banyan 17th century is shown amungst many other unique things.
In the meanwhile i have almost finished my yellow waistcoat, i only need to 
assemble it to the backs, buttonholes and buttons worked:
   http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/2006suit.htm
And i hired Derek Easton to make me this wig:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig.htm
He made it, only i think he made the chignon two small, you will have to 
waite a little to see it, i have it but i need to take a photo with powdered

face......................

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Albert said:

> That is all well and good. But this "REAL P's of the C" thing was 98% 
> reenactments. I mean it was the whole shebang. And for the reenactments to be 
> so 
> important AND the costuming to be so bad...I mean more than bad...completely 
> unprofessional! Well, there no excuse. That's my point, really



______________

Gotta chime in here.  The re-enactors were the foot soldiers; they were responsible for their own clothing, which represents many research hours and many dollars to get authenticity to the highest level possible.  Take a look at the battle and seige scenes in The Southern Strategy" episode and the upcoming ones depicting the war in the South.  I believe you will be hard pressed to find fault with the clothing worn by the soldiers (except for that guy with the cigarette in the first episode--don't know where HE came from,).  As one who was there during the filming of the Charleston scenes (if you look reeeaaallly fast, you can see my brown silk taffeta sacqueback in some of the dance clips),  I can attest to the importance attached to getting the clothing, arms, and camps as close to authentic as possible.

I think the ones you are finding fault with are the named characters, who are paid actors and costumed by the production company.  The company is interested in a good scene, and if it happens to have good costuming (darned few and far between in this production) that is a chance happening.

To their credit, the production company made an effort at authenticity by hiring as a consultant a well-respected re-enactor / scholar to advise them on the military scenes and clothing.  He was extremely frustrated because, talk though he might, they weren't interested if it did not fit their idea of the scene.  To my knowledge, neither he nor anyone else advised about the costuming of the paid cast.  There couldn't have been anyone--otherwise they would not all be running around with (Jo-Ann) lace jabots and dead cats on their heads.

Several re-enactors lent or rented clothing or firearms to the productiion company.  When--if--they got them back, the items had been very poorly treated  and in some cases ruined (despite the costuming departments promises to the contrary, spray-on "stage dirt" IS permanent).  

On the other hand, there are some interesting touches.  One re-enactor, a member of the group which portrays the Coldstream Guards, let them use his officer's dress coat, which a documented copy of a Guards coat of the war period,. So far it has turned up on both General Burgoyne and General Clinton.  He is sure that Clinton must be spinning in his grave, to have been seen in a Guards uniform.  Keep an eye out for further sightings--the Guards uniform was more elaborate than many of the uniforms worn by the AWI generals.  So you will know the coat--it is the one with all the gold braid.

Jane Pease
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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] little note.................
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2006 22:33:32 -0400
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Incredible work, Bjarne!  I am glad to have you back and will look forward
to hearing more as your work progresses. If you hear of any websites with
any pictures from the exhibit in September please let us know.  I'd love to
see the Banyan, but I'm afraid Copenhagen this fall is not possible for me.
*Sigh*
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
Bjarne wrote:
Just a little note that  i am back on the list.
<snip>
I must tell you costume wise, that a very important exhibition is taking 
place in Copenhagen by all places in September, showing court fashions of 
men from 17th century to 18th century.
The earlyest Banyan 17th century is shown amungst many other unique things.
In the meanwhile i have almost finished my yellow waistcoat, i only need to 
assemble it to the backs, buttonholes and buttons worked:
   http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/2006suit.htm
And i hired Derek Easton to make me this wig:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/wig.htm
He made it, only i think he made the chignon two small, you will have to 
waite a little to see it, i have it but i need to take a photo with powdered

face......................


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates 
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The pictures are from a book, The Elegant Beast" by Leonard Lubin, 1981, 
Viking Press. The ISBN is 0-670-29097-1. I own a copy and I have delighted in the 
illustrations for years.

Kathleen Norvell
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Does anyone on the list live in or about Paris, France?  I'm going to be visiting from the 14th to the 23rd of Sept., and would like to ask a few questions.

thanks,

Melusine
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 554
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I have borrowed both costumes and props for years. I always return
everything in good condition, if not,I pay for it. It always amazes me how
some companies mis-treat borrowed items. It is so very unprofessional and
gets the company a bad reputation. Soon, no one will loan anything to them.
It just takes organization, something I would have thought a professional
filming company would be good at. Go figure.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Jane Pease
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 6:03 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 554




Albert said:

> That is all well and good. But this "REAL P's of the C" thing was 98%
> reenactments. I mean it was the whole shebang. And for the reenactments to
be 
> so 
> important AND the costuming to be so bad...I mean more than
bad...completely 
> unprofessional! Well, there no excuse. That's my point, really



______________

Gotta chime in here.  The re-enactors were the foot soldiers; they were
responsible for their own clothing, which represents many research hours and
many dollars to get authenticity to the highest level possible.  Take a look
at the battle and seige scenes in The Southern Strategy" episode and the
upcoming ones depicting the war in the South.  I believe you will be hard
pressed to find fault with the clothing worn by the soldiers (except for
that guy with the cigarette in the first episode--don't know where HE came
from,).  As one who was there during the filming of the Charleston scenes
(if you look reeeaaallly fast, you can see my brown silk taffeta sacqueback
in some of the dance clips),  I can attest to the importance attached to
getting the clothing, arms, and camps as close to authentic as possible.

I think the ones you are finding fault with are the named characters, who
are paid actors and costumed by the production company.  The company is
interested in a good scene, and if it happens to have good costuming (darned
few and far between in this production) that is a chance happening.

To their credit, the production company made an effort at authenticity by
hiring as a consultant a well-respected re-enactor / scholar to advise them
on the military scenes and clothing.  He was extremely frustrated because,
talk though he might, they weren't interested if it did not fit their idea
of the scene.  To my knowledge, neither he nor anyone else advised about the
costuming of the paid cast.  There couldn't have been anyone--otherwise they
would not all be running around with (Jo-Ann) lace jabots and dead cats on
their heads.

Several re-enactors lent or rented clothing or firearms to the productiion
company.  When--if--they got them back, the items had been very poorly
treated  and in some cases ruined (despite the costuming departments
promises to the contrary, spray-on "stage dirt" IS permanent).  

On the other hand, there are some interesting touches.  One re-enactor, a
member of the group which portrays the Coldstream Guards, let them use his
officer's dress coat, which a documented copy of a Guards coat of the war
period,. So far it has turned up on both General Burgoyne and General
Clinton.  He is sure that Clinton must be spinning in his grave, to have
been seen in a Guards uniform.  Keep an eye out for further sightings--the
Guards uniform was more elaborate than many of the uniforms worn by the AWI
generals.  So you will know the coat--it is the one with all the gold braid.

Jane Pease
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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Paris, France
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 09:40:58 -0400
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I don't live there but have been several times. (born there).  Maybe I can
help.

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Carmen Beaudry
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 3:47 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Paris, France

Does anyone on the list live in or about Paris, France?  I'm going to be
visiting from the 14th to the 23rd of Sept., and would like to ask a few
questions.

thanks,

Melusine

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 09:43:23 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 7/30/2006 10:32:00 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
Appin1@aol.com writes:

The  pictures are from a book, The Elegant Beast" by Leonard Lubin, 1981,  
Viking Press. The ISBN is 0-670-29097-1. I own a copy and I have delighted  
in the 
illustrations for years.

Kathleen  Norvell



It's out of print but there were 9 copies at Amazon this morning.  Now  there 
are 8.  ;-) I didn't check with other used book sellers online.
 
Cheryl Odom
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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 09:47:46 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - what do you make to beat the heat
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably
> toasty weather?

Call me a hard core southerner but I love this heat. That being
said, when I am out and about running from one spot to another, the
heat does win out.

I am wearing long loose a-line dresses with slits up the side leg,
slightly off center so that when I sit it does not reveal my bum.
Three quarter length sleeves. If skirts, I have the same style slit.
If I have to wear hose I wear Wolfords, they feel like nothing at
all and do not make my feet sweat.

This kinda dress lets the air breeze though my legs when I have to
walk out side the office.

Chiara

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From: Julie Brautigan <jab@uwm.edu>
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Where can one purchase Wolford hosiery - I hate nylons!  Julie


Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio wrote:

>>Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably
>>toasty weather?
>>    
>>
>
>Call me a hard core southerner but I love this heat. That being
>said, when I am out and about running from one spot to another, the
>heat does win out.
>
>I am wearing long loose a-line dresses with slits up the side leg,
>slightly off center so that when I sit it does not reveal my bum.
>Three quarter length sleeves. If skirts, I have the same style slit.
>If I have to wear hose I wear Wolfords, they feel like nothing at
>all and do not make my feet sweat.
>
>This kinda dress lets the air breeze though my legs when I have to
>walk out side the office.
>
>Chiara
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>  
>

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 14:40:57 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] little note....
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Hi Bjarne!

Nice to see back on the list. Hot here also.. that's why we leave for 
Copenhagen on 25 August! ;) When and where is the exhibit? Our primary 
interests are a bit earlier, but it sounds interesting. We'll only be in 
Denmark for a week before we have to leave for Sweden and then Norway.

Beth

>Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2006 21:16:46 +0200
>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>
>I hope that its ben very booring while i have ben away, god knows its ben
>very boring here, and damned two hot, Europe has had one of the badest
>summers heatwise, we still have, and i pray it soon gets away.
>I must tell you costume wise, that a very important exhibition is taking
>place in Copenhagen by all places in September, showing court fashions of
>men from 17th century to 18th century.
>Bjarne

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From: "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <002f01c6b4a6$f4958bd0$0300a8c0@ANNESCOMPUTER>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Paris, France
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>I don't live there but have been several times. (born there).  Maybe I can
> help.
>
> Anne
Thanks, Anne, but I'm travelling to Paris Sept. 13th, staying until the 
23rd, and would like to meet up with someone from the list if possible.

Melusine

>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Carmen Beaudry
> Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 3:47 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Paris, France
>
> Does anyone on the list live in or about Paris, France?  I'm going to be
> visiting from the 14th to the 23rd of Sept., and would like to ask a few
> questions.
>
> thanks,
>
> Melusine

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Paris, France
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Well, enjoy your trip.  Hope you get to say HI to the Cluny. 

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Carmen Beaudry
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 8:20 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Paris, France


>I don't live there but have been several times. (born there).  Maybe I can
> help.
>
> Anne
Thanks, Anne, but I'm travelling to Paris Sept. 13th, staying until the 
23rd, and would like to meet up with someone from the list if possible.

Melusine


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