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From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] for Bjarne - bezants update
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Hi Bjarne

I know you've been working with spangles/bezants and thought you'd be interested in this site.

This came from the SCA Bead list.

***I know there are a number of peopel who are hungry for these things  
and have been toying with making some -  tonight was a useful night  
of not sleeping.

This is the last time I will call them bezants. They aren't bezants.  
They are something different, something almost purely germamic that  
orginally can from scadinavia and the vikings. They are/were money.  
At least they were to the 15th C. They were being made decoratively  
I'm sure as soon as folks started sewing them on to things to keep  
from losing them.

Schmuckbrateaten (Ornamental thin coins) or Bracteaten thats what I  
will call them now.

I have a number of links up , (more on the way I'm sure) including  
one that has a diagram (and a few described processes) on how they  
were made (just as I have said all this time, stamped baby) They are  
just thin one sided coins.

http://medievalbeads.com/docs/docs-bezants.shtml

(I also got my classes on the front page for pennsic, updated the  
"bezants" page, and redid the class notes page - much clearer now)

now to bed

griz***


Julie in San DIego

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] little note....
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 20:13:04 +0200
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Hi,
I read in an antique magazine about the exhibition. It says the exhibition 
is on now and last the rest of this year.
Its at Rosenborg Pallace in the heart of Copenhagen, so it should not be 
difficult for you to find it.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Beth and Bob Matney" <bmatney@alltel.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 9:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] little note....


> Hi Bjarne!
>
> Nice to see back on the list. Hot here also.. that's why we leave for 
> Copenhagen on 25 August! ;) When and where is the exhibit? Our primary 
> interests are a bit earlier, but it sounds interesting. We'll only be in 
> Denmark for a week before we have to leave for Sweden and then Norway.
>
> Beth
>
>>Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2006 21:16:46 +0200
>>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>
>>I hope that its ben very booring while i have ben away, god knows its ben
>>very boring here, and damned two hot, Europe has had one of the badest
>>summers heatwise, we still have, and i pray it soon gets away.
>>I must tell you costume wise, that a very important exhibition is taking
>>place in Copenhagen by all places in September, showing court fashions of
>>men from 17th century to 18th century.
>>Bjarne
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Costume College 2006
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Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone else is going to be at
Costume College this weekend. After all these years of
it being practically in my back yard, I'm actually
going!

MaggiRos
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Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 13:44:00 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College 2006
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

OOOO Maggi!!

Can you possibly please get a copy of the glove class doc's for me?
Please? :)

Let me know what I will owe you for them. :)

The college coordinators will not give me any information on how to
contact the teacher or give her my information. :(

Chiara


On Tue, August 1, 2006 1:29 pm, MaggiRos said:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Just wondering if anyone else is going to be at
> Costume College this weekend. After all these years of
> it being practically in my back yard, I'm actually
> going!
>
> MaggiRos
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
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  3. RE: Re:History Channel (monica spence)

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 12:13:58 -0400
From: monica spence 
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:History Channel
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I feel badly that the people at the HC are being ripped. They have a limited
budget, it is difficult to get permission to film in some of the real sites
and many times their actors are the reinactors that "do" a period-- unpaid,
but not stars or people who have anything to say about scripts, production
values, etc.. Not to mention that costumes are usually rented from a costume
house that is more interested in genaric than specialty work. And then there
are time constraints...

I have a friend who is set to do a Civil War program for the HC. Who knows
what it will be like, but he is working with people who know the period. My
husband is slated to play a soldier-- no lines, or he would have to be payed
Equity scale.

We were in Philadelphia this past November and visited the USS Olympia,
Admiral Dewey'S flagship. As we followed the electrical cables aboard and
passed a cabin filled with men in uniforms of the period (Spanish American
War) we were informed that the HC was doing a documentary on the SA War. It
was very exciting-- the air was filled with smoke from a "fire" or a
battle-- but we couldn't see it because it was cordoned off for filming. The
people were really helpful, and the technical people put up with us
tourists, and we hooked up with one ofthe reinactors who have a a tour that
was not to be believed ! We got to stand on the bridge, and got to see the
crow's nesy, which was rusted and needed repair. Most people don't get to
see half that stuff...

Anyhoo... unless you have ever been directly involved with a production you
don't know the limitations put on a director by the chanel, the director
etc.
It is not as easy as you may think.

Monica Spence


-AND-----------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 11:50:17 -0500
From: Dawn 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:History Channel
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <44CA4049.5020207@reddawn.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

monica spence wrote:
> I feel badly that the people at the HC are being ripped. They have a limited
> budget, it is difficult to get permission to film in some of the real sites
> and many times their actors are the reinactors that "do" a period-- unpaid,
> but not stars or people who have anything to say about scripts, production
> values, etc.. Not to mention that costumes are usually rented from a costume
> house that is more interested in genaric than specialty work. And then there
> are time constraints...

I had an interesting chat with one of the guys who did the costuming for 
the Revolutionary War series on HC. From the sounds of it, the producers 
left the costuming entirely to the unpaid actors...

quote: "I do not-for-profit living history demonstrations. I started 
with The Revolutionary War time period. I could not afford to buy 
clothing so I learned how to make my own, by hand. I researched 
historical garments and began making them with historical construction 
techniques. Soon I started and outfitted an entire re-enacting group.
I served as the Historical Advisor on the new 13 Episode History Channel
series on the Revolution, which will air this summer. Not only did I
review the scripts and coach the producers, writers and actors but I
also made most of the clothing worn in the production (hand made museum
quality pieces). The wardrobe people came with nothing and knew nothing
(actually they are Civil War specialists). They will be creditted with
wardrobe but, oh well, at least things are accurate now."

endquote

So, someone did try.


Dawn

   
  Actually, The History Channel deserves to be ripped for the pirate thing...It was JUST BAD!  And they's don't so many good things too!!
   
  AND the Revolution is almost bad, well, maybe worse to me, it's boring.  If you are good at what you do and use your imagination and make good choices, you can work around limitations ( i.e real whale bone is not so easy to find in 21st century NOW, but you can still make a plausible set of stays.)
   
  I know it can't be easy, that's why they call it work.  It's not about money either, many of the resources give it away for pretty much free.  and are willing to lend kit if it's taken care of, but frequently it is not.... And act as free backgrounds in miles and mile of stock footage.
   
  Hmm historic costume content.....It doesn't cost any more to do it right, If that is what you want., but don't try to pass off bad as good to me
   
  18c Mia in Charlotte, going back to trying to make that cute little cap, the one with the little dip in the front, Burnely and Trowbrige, the 18c cent fabric merchants is putting out the patterns., but i have to work a bit on the whipped gather thing, it's harder thatn ti out to be


 			
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College 2006
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Oh dear, I'm not taking the class, but I'll see what I
can do. If nothing else, I can get the instructor's
name (I can check when I get home this afternoon) and
see where that takes me.

Maggie 

--- Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio <chiara@io.com>
wrote:

> OOOO Maggi!!
> 
> Can you possibly please get a copy of the glove
> class doc's for me?
> Please? :)
> 
> Let me know what I will owe you for them. :)
> 
> The college coordinators will not give me any
> information on how to
> contact the teacher or give her my information. :(
> 
> Chiara
> 
> 
> On Tue, August 1, 2006 1:29 pm, MaggiRos said:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Just wondering if anyone else is going to be at
> > Costume College this weekend. After all these
> years of
> > it being practically in my back yard, I'm actually
> > going!
> >
> > MaggiRos
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Sharpe BBC(A) series
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BBC America's "Playhouse" show has been running the series of 2 hour 
Sharpe movies lately. All 1813.
What do you (collectively) think of the costuming, both civilian and 
military?
I like it, but what do I know? :)

liz young


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sharpe BBC(A) series
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Elizabeth Young wrote:

> BBC America's "Playhouse" show has been running the series of 2 hour 
> Sharpe movies lately. All 1813.
> What do you (collectively) think of the costuming, both civilian and 
> military?
> I like it, but what do I know? :)


The men's costuming is pretty good.  The women's falls somewhere between 
mediocre and appalling.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College 2006
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I will be there again! Woohoo! I need to start packing up my stuff tonight. And I hope to see many of you this weekend.
   
  Kimiko
  

MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:
  
Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone else is going to be at
Costume College this weekend. After all these years of
it being practically in my back yard, I'm actually
going!

MaggiRos
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sharpe BBC(A) series
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 17:36:07 -0500
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I saw the series when it ran years ago on Masterpiece Theater. I don't
remember the costumes particularly, but Sean Ban was to die for! 

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Young
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 5:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Sharpe BBC(A) series

BBC America's "Playhouse" show has been running the series of 2 hour Sharpe
movies lately. All 1813.
What do you (collectively) think of the costuming, both civilian and
military?
I like it, but what do I know? :)

liz young


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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sharpe BBC(A) series
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I thought the Sharpe stories were set at various times during the
Peninsular War (1808-13) and after. I believe the military uniforms were
pretty accurate.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net> 01/08/2006 23:14 >>>
BBC America's "Playhouse" show has been running the series of 2 hour 
Sharpe movies lately. All 1813.
What do you (collectively) think of the costuming, both civilian and 
military?
I like it, but what do I know? :)

liz young


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h-costume@mail.indra.com 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2006 08:49:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College 2006
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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What and where is Costume College?  And the GenCon
that everybody was going to last week?  Isn't there
some big deal in Kalamazoo, MI in the spring?

As I am just getting into historic costuming after
years of sewing, I would love to meet others with
similar interests and learn new things.  Is there like
a master listing of this type of event?  Where could I
find more info?

Rebecca

--- MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:

> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Just wondering if anyone else is going to be at
> Costume College this weekend. After all these years
> of
> it being practically in my back yard, I'm actually
> going!
> 
> MaggiRos
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sharpe BBC(A) series
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Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote
>Elizabeth Young wrote:
>
>> BBC America's "Playhouse" show has been running the series of 2 hour 
>>Sharpe movies lately. All 1813.
>> What do you (collectively) think of the costuming, both civilian and 
>>military?
>> I like it, but what do I know? :)
>
>
>The men's costuming is pretty good.  The women's falls somewhere 
>between mediocre and appalling.
>
I've never read the books, but from watching the series (mainly to drool 
over Sean Bean) I suspect this is an accurate reflection of the relative 
importance of the female characters!
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] little note....
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Thank you Bjarne. I will certainly try to get to it.

Beth

>Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2006 20:13:04 +0200
>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
>
>Hi,
>I read in an antique magazine about the exhibition. It says the exhibition
>is on now and last the rest of this year.
>Its at Rosenborg Pallace in the heart of Copenhagen, so it should not be
>difficult for you to find it.
>
>Bjarne

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sharpe BBC(A) series
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Jean Waddie wrote:

> Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote
>
>>
>> The men's costuming [in _Sharpe_] is pretty good.  The women's falls 
>> somewhere between mediocre and appalling.
>>
> I've never read the books, but from watching the series (mainly to 
> drool over Sean Bean) I suspect this is an accurate reflection of the 
> relative importance of the female characters!


Quite.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College 2006
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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http://www.costumecollege.org/

I believe they're going to be changing the name for
next year, but this link will tell you everything
there is to know for now. Unfortunately, it's so
popular, you can't just drop in. No memberships at the
door, not even for the day! But if you happen to be in
town, you can drop in to the Dealers' Room without
being a member.

I live practically on their doorstep, and I've never
gotten around to going until now. Which is especially
weird since I do so little costuming anymore. Oh well,
it will be nice to see people, at least!

Maggie

--- REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> What and where is Costume College?  And the GenCon
> that everybody was going to last week?  Isn't there
> some big deal in Kalamazoo, MI in the spring?
> 
> As I am just getting into historic costuming after
> years of sewing, I would love to meet others with
> similar interests and learn new things.  Is there
> like
> a master listing of this type of event?  Where could
> I
> find more info?
> 
> Rebecca
> 
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REBECCA BURCH wrote:

>   And the GenCon
> that everybody was going to last week?  

GenCon is a gaming convention, as in Dungeons & Dragons, Magic card 
tournaments, and napoleonic miniatures. They host, among other events, a 
Masquerade on Saturday evening. It's held these days in Indianapolis, 
where they have a contract through at least 2010. It begins this year on 
Aug 10 and runs through the 13th , and you can buy day passes at the door.

www.gencon.com



Dawn
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
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Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2006 19:10:22 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] Cotton gloves?
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Hi all,

I remember someone telling us (maybe here, maybe on another list, but this 
one has more members so I'll try here first) that to embroider and embellish 
fabrics and not get them dirty, he/she cut the tips off simple white cotton 
gloves. What kind of gloves did you use, and where would I find this?

Thanks,

Audrey
 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sharpe BBC(A) series 
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In a message dated 8/2/06 7:04:30 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> >The men's costuming is pretty good.  The women's falls somewhere 
> >between mediocre and appalling.
> >
> I've never read the books, but from watching the series (mainly to drool 
> over Sean Bean) I suspect this is an accurate reflection of the relative 
> importance of the female characters!

Also never read the books, but have seen pretty much every ep. of the series 
(was de rigeur at college in the early - mid 90s, for the seen bean factor) - 
and would agree about the women.  They're mostly there to be slept with or 
rescued, and although a bit pants in terms of accuracy, the clothes do reflect 
that quite well (eg demure and white for the rescu-ees, and flamenco-esque for 
sharpe's mrs)!

The military uniforms are quite accurate for the principles (of course 
they're awful for the extras, if you can be bothered to look that closely).

That said - if you get the chance, check out the back of Sharpes officers 
dolman in the Indian ep that was shown over here a while ago.  It's accurate from 
the front, but clearly the person who made it had no clue what the back was 
like :o)
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Subject: [h-cost] Filmer Collection in the Manchester Gallery of Costume
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A friend has asked me for information about two garments in the Filmer 
Collection in the Manchester Gallery of Costume (below). What she is 
looking for is how the seams were treated (and edges finished) and how the 
pieces were sewn together and also about the round neckline "front" opening 
in garment 2.

Has anyone had a chance to examine either of these (and possibly has 
photos) or can give me a contact person who can answer these questions?

Thanks.
Beth

>Garment 1
>shift & chemise
>women
>
>Date Made (earliest) 1575
>Date Made (latest) 1600
>Date Made 1575-1600
>Place Made
>Europe England
>
>Subject Classification period: 17th century
>women
>underwear
>
>Description Linen, straight section back and front, with square yoke and 
>square neck, opening at back and lower cut in front; long sleeves in one 
>section, seamed under arm, open at wrist; square gusset under each arm; 
>one full length gore and second gore in lower half of garment; front of 
>neck to shoulder embroidered with black silk in 3cm band of embroidery in 
>formal acorn pattern and 1cm band of simple embroidery at back opening; 
>three bands of embroidery in black silk down each sleeve, in different 
>formalized pattern of acorn and oak leaves in back and braid stitches.
>Material linen
>silk
>
>Technique embroidered
>blackwork
>
>Size Type Height Width Depth Diameter Unit
>Length 111    cm
>Chest 95    cm
>
>Accession Number 2003.76


>Then Garment 2 I want to know about the round neckline "front" opening and 
>(of course) about the stitching and seam treatment.
>shift & chemise
>women
>Date Made (earliest) 1600
>Date Made (latest) 1650
>Date Made 1600-1650
>Place Made
>England
>
>Cultural Origin
>English
>
>Subject Classification Women
>Female
>Adult
>17th century
>
>Description Smock made from linen. Two full-length gores inserted each 
>side, small gusset underarm. Round neck with front opening. All seams open 
>with patterned stitching of bars on a single vertical thread. Bordered 
>with two lines of silk back stitch, three narrow bands of drawn thread 
>embroidery round neck opening and sleeves.
>Material linen
>
>Size Type Height Width Depth Diameter Unit
>Length 47    inches
>Hem  89   inches
>Sleeve 23    inches
>
>Accession Number 2003.75

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College 2006, et al
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>What and where is Costume College?

LA area, in Va Nuys CA.  Look around for the International Costumers
Guild sites.
Next year's CostumeCon is in San Jose CA http://www.cc26.info/

>And the GenCon
>that everybody was going to last week?  Isn't there

That starts on Thurs next and is a board games, role-playing games,
collectible card games, games, games show that just happens to have
fans who dress like characters, superheros, Conan the barbarian
hero's, manga characters, et al.  If you're into historical, I dont
recommend this one.

>some big deal in Kalamazoo, MI in the spring?
That's for the medieval crowd. I've never been.

If you're also into Dance, you might consider some of the historic
dance weeks on offer all over the world. Well, you're going to be in a
stir trying to choose among all the tasty offerings.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <008301c6b688$d50686a0$0302a8c0@p4audrey>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton gloves?
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 08:22:18 -0400
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Status: RO

Try googling gloves on line.  The ones you are looking for will be the cheap
sort used for Band gloves (as in "marching band").Also, many of companies
which provide dance assessories will also include gloves  The will be about
$3.00 a pair.
Another resource might be thrift stores or flea markets. These will be
ladies' dress gloves...which even though dingy, will suit your purpose quite
nicely.

If your project is a large one, you might try putting the piece in a pillow
case exposing only the portion being worked on, pinning the top of the case
shut around it. This has worked for me especially when traveling.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 7:10 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Cotton gloves?


> Hi all,
>
> I remember someone telling us (maybe here, maybe on another list, but this
> one has more members so I'll try here first) that to embroider and
embellish
> fabrics and not get them dirty, he/she cut the tips off simple white
cotton
> gloves. What kind of gloves did you use, and where would I find this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Audrey
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton gloves?
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 07:36:56 -0500
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You can buy finger cots in most pharmacies (in the US).  They are stretchy 
cotton tubes for your fingers.

hmmm...I just did a quick google search and found only latex finger cots --  
but they are very cheap. Less than $3 for a gross.

Denise
Iowa


> Try googling gloves on line.  The ones you are looking for will be the 
> cheap
> sort used for Band gloves (as in "marching band").Also, many of companies
> which provide dance assessories will also include gloves  The will be 
> about
> $3.00 a pair.

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cotton gloves?
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I have found that most gloves are too heavy. The thin cotton gloves we used
in the photography business are much thinner and work well. 

Anne 


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Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2006 09:42:22 -0400
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton gloves?
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Status: RO

Inspired by this question I did an online search for cotton gloves,
since I always forget to order gloves in time for Newport Dance week,
and my usual supplier went out of business last year.  I came up with
this site:

http://www.gloves-online.com/about.htm

I have ordered their cotton wrist length gloves with snaps to try for
Men's Vintage Dance formal wear.  (ITEM #CP150 (Doz))  They also have
kids size cotton gloves which I have been looking for for ages.  You
can order by the dozen to save a bit of money.  I can report on how
they are when I get them.

Katy

On 8/2/06, Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I remember someone telling us (maybe here, maybe on another list, but this
> one has more members so I'll try here first) that to embroider and embellish
> fabrics and not get them dirty, he/she cut the tips off simple white cotton
> gloves. What kind of gloves did you use, and where would I find this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Audrey
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] straight front corset
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Hi all,
  does anyone know a good pattern of a 1900-1909 straight front corset? Something like this one: http://www.marquise.de/database/dbout.php?name=k1902_1&pfad=1900 ... Not too long over the hips. I'd welcome a pattern which would fit on a modern figure but giving it the S-shape and a slim waist. Many thanks,
   
  Zuzana

 		
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From: Carol Newby <ladybug@neei.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton gloves?
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You can also check the cosmetics/personal care section of a drug store. 
That's where I found mine. If I remember correctly they were with the 
lotions for the ladies who wear cotton gloves to sleep in after 
slathering on lotion. Mine are similar but perhaps a bit lighter weight 
than my son's marching band gloves.

Carol
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sharpe BBC(A) series 
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--- Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:


> That said - if you get the chance, check out the
> back of Sharpes officers 
> dolman in the Indian ep that was shown over here a
> while ago.  It's accurate from 
> the front, but clearly the person who made it had no
> clue what the back was 
> like :o)

We haven't seen that one here in the US yet. BBC
America is showing all the films in order, leading up
to the new one at the end. It's going to be weird
having a 10-years-older Sean Bean playing his, what,
15- to 20-years-younger self.

I've read all the books several times and own all the
videos (time to start replacing them with DVDs in
fact). It's not my eara, so I can't speak to the
costuming but heck, I'm not watching it for the
costumes (blasphemy!) but for Sean Bean. :-)

MaggiRos
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College 2006, et al
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--- Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:

> >What and where is Costume College?
> 
> LA area, in Va Nuys CA.  Look around for the
> International Costumers
> Guild sites.
> Next year's CostumeCon is in San Jose CA
> http://www.cc26.info/
> 

Note that CostumeCon and Costume College aren't the
same thing.

MaggiRos
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> You can buy finger cots in most pharmacies (in the US).  They are stretchy
> cotton tubes for your fingers.

Yes, but I think that won't work because most of the dirt comes from
the sides of your hands brushing against the fabric as you work, not
so much your fingers. I really need something to wrap the whole hand.
I'll be working on white fabric, see...
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight front corset
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Status: RO

Have you looked at the Past Patterns #106 corset:

http://www.pastpatterns.com/106.html

I find it gives a wonderful line for c. 1900-1905 (not the most
comfortable corset era, at least for me)

Katy

On 8/3/06, Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>  does anyone know a good pattern of a 1900-1909 straight front corset? Something like this one: http://www.marquise.de/database/dbout.php?name=k1902_1&pfad=1900 ... Not too long over the hips. I'd welcome a pattern which would fit on a modern figure but giving it the S-shape and a slim waist. Many thanks,
>
>  Zuzana
>
>
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight front corset
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Status: RO

I've never seen the actual pattern pieces for the Past Patterns version of 
the straight front corset, so please bear that in mind when I say this: 
I've been horribly disappointed in the accuracy of the patterns out there 
for straight front corsets.  In this I even must include the Norah Waugh 
pattern in Corsets & Crinolines; while it may well be based on an extant 
corset, it is in no way representative of the straight front corset, and if 
you're trying to get that look, you'll be disappointed.

If you want accuracy and aren't afraid to try to figure out a difficult 
pattern, try this:
http://www.agelesspatterns.com/corsets_5.htm
#1339 (early Edwardian) or #1522 (late Edwardian).  Both are representative 
of the lower cut Edwardians that were actually worn.

Also, remembering that they are NOT to scale except for the last one, you 
may want to glance at the pattern pieces you'll see in the photos section of 
one of my yahoo groups:
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/straightfrontcorsets/photos/browse/1bcb
That last one is the pattern to the coral corset you'll see me wearing 
elsewhere in the photos section; it's got a mid-decade straight front fit, 
but the top and bottom lines are very early decade.  (You should be able to 
select Large under View in order to make out enough detail for it to be 
useable, but if not I can send you a larger version of the image.)  If I 
remember right, that's a 26" waist, 40" bust, 42" hips, tall.

By the way, whenever I get around to moving over all the files, the straight 
front yahoo group will be absorbed by my other corset group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Historical_Corsets/ which does have some good 
discussions on occasion.  This is because for some reason, "straight front 
corsets" seems to mean "let me tell you all about my sex life and send you a 
link to my 923432 favorite bondage sites" to 75% of the potential members. 
Luckily, we haven't had too much of that trouble on historical corsets.

Since many people ask, yes that is a corset I made on the front page, but 
sorry, I do make all my own patterns.  If I ever decide to give a class in 
that, it'll be at FFC and I'll let the group know.

-E House


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight front corset
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Well, I've seen the past patterns corset before, it looks exactly like the one I'm looking for, but I find it very risky to purchase such a pattern where it is impossible to see the finished garment. That's why I'm asking for experiences... Has anyone made a corset from this pattern? 
  The both ageless patterns corsets (n. 1339, 1522) seem a bit too straight to me, and they go too long over the hips. I'm searching for a stronger difference between bust, waist and hips. But thanks for the links to the both yahoo groups, and to the patterns there - maybe I could just use them and modify them a bit rather than purchasing something online and waiting for ages to get the pattern... But, well, I don't really know where and how to modify the pattern pieces - I'd say that the construction methods hundred years ago were too different from today to try some great manipulations with the pattern. 
  May I ask you, how did you learn to make patterns for corsets? I know very well how to draft custom-made patterns for all sorts of modern garments and some historical ones, but I don't dare to draft any corset patterns, because the tight-laced figure gets different proportions, you have to take care of the ribs and the pelvis and the corset shape varies so much. I never found any book which would tell me how to draft corsets. I only saw a book called "Waisted efforts" on the internet and it claimed to be a "guide to corsetmaking". It sounds promising, but I could never look inside the book. But I found an excerpt, at least: 
  http://www.farthingales.on.ca/waisted_efforts/page35.htm
  Do you know that book? Is it helpful? Or do you know any other good sources?
  Thanks,
   
  Zuzana

 		
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I know the book & the author, it does not, in my opinion, teach you how to 
draft corsets. It does show draping but you have to know how to make corsets 
first or be very familiar with the medium.

Sarah Paterson

----- Original Message ----- > 
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/waisted_efforts/page35.htm
>  Do you know that book? Is it helpful? Or do you know any other good 
> sources?
>  Thanks,
>
>  Zuzana
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Subject: [h-cost] Fashion industry books
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I may have the opportunity to teach a class in the costume and fashion 
industries.  Now while I consider myself quite knowledgeable about the 
costume industry, I am less well-versed in the fashion industry.  I 
worked as a patternmaker for a clothing manufacturer for a couple 
years, but that's about it.  Is anyone on either of these lists 
involved in the garment/fashion biz?  If so, I am looking for some book 
recommendations that might help me.

Sylrog

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] straight front corset
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Don't know of a pattern, but know of a supplier.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 8:04 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] straight front corset


Hi all,
  does anyone know a good pattern of a 1900-1909 straight front corset?
Something like this one:
http://www.marquise.de/database/dbout.php?name=k1902_1&pfad=1900 ... Not too
long over the hips. I'd welcome a pattern which would fit on a modern figure
but giving it the S-shape and a slim waist. Many thanks,
   
  Zuzana

 		
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College 2006
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On Wed, 2 Aug 2006, REBECCA BURCH wrote:

> What and where is Costume College?  And the GenCon that everybody was
> going to last week?  Isn't there some big deal in Kalamazoo, MI in the
> spring?

Just back from a trip and catching up, and I don't know if anyone has
answered the last part of this.

The International Congress on Medieval Studies, held each May in
Kalamazoo, Michigan (home of the Medieval Institute at Western Michigan
University) is the world's largest interdisciplinary conference on
medieval studies. It's an academic conference, not a costume event. There
are 600-plus sessions, averaging three papers each, in all areas of
medieval studies (literature, art, history, etc.); among these are several
sessions on medieval dress and textiles. About four of these sessions are
the ones I organize, under the sponsorship of the organization DISTAFF;
there's often another dress-related session or two elsewhere in the
Congress, and a handful of dress-related papers scattered about in other
sessions, plus additional papers/sessions on topics that might be of
interest to the costume scholar, e.g. on trade, economics, law,
archaeology, or material culture. However, it is not something that would
appeal to the typical costumer, but rather to the serious scholar of
historic dress. More information on request, or see
http://www.wmich.edu/medieval/congress/

Completely unrelated to that: A costume event not on your list above, but
worth mentioning, is CostumeCon, which rotates among cities. There's a
large overlap with the sf/fantasy con costuming community there. Next one
is in St. Louis in March/April: http://www.cc25.net/start.htm

--Robin

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And the San Jose Costume Con isn't next year, it's 2008.  Next year's 
is in St. Louis, MO.

http://www.cc25.net/

March 30 - Apr. 2, 2007

Sandy
At 02:30 PM 8/3/2006, you wrote:

>--- Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > >What and where is Costume College?
> >
> > LA area, in Va Nuys CA.  Look around for the
> > International Costumers
> > Guild sites.
> > Next year's CostumeCon is in San Jose CA
> > http://www.cc26.info/
> >
>
>Note that CostumeCon and Costume College aren't the
>same thing.
>
>MaggiRos

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2006 22:56:57 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight front corset
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>In this I even must include the Norah Waugh pattern in Corsets & 
>Crinolines; while it may well be based on an extant corset, it is in no 
>way representative of the straight front corset, and if you're trying to 
>get that look, you'll be disappointed.

Gee.  I have one of those, straight out of Waugh's book, and I find that it 
generates the "straight-front" look just fine on me.  It even looks like 
the ones in the Sears catalogs of 1900 and 1902, (which I have in reprint) 
right down to the seams.  I like mine fine and have worn it for many 
years.  It was no fun to construct, but it is unique among my various 
period-repro corsets in that it has never lost a bone.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cotton gloves?
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 11:18:18 -0400
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May not be able to find them now, but the party/costume shops sell cheap
thin ones at Christmas time to go with Santa costumes.

Kate
609-570-3584
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 12:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton gloves?

> You can buy finger cots in most pharmacies (in the US).  They are
stretchy
> cotton tubes for your fingers.

Yes, but I think that won't work because most of the dirt comes from
the sides of your hands brushing against the fabric as you work, not
so much your fingers. I really need something to wrap the whole hand.
I'll be working on white fabric, see...
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight front corset
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I learned through lots and lots of trial and error, and staring at extant 
corsets and ads, magazines, etc until my eyes bled.  For years.  I don't 
think you can really come up with a formula for drafting them, and that's 
not how I do it, anyway.  You get to know the shape the pattern pieces 
should be, and how that shape changes when the hips are larger or smaller, 
when the waist is high or low, and so on. I look at the measurements, build 
a mental picture of the person's figure, and then just ... adjust.  Kinda 
but not exactly like those scary tailors who can take 2 measurements and 
then make you a suit that fits like a glove.  (If only I could do it with 
other garments.)

It's been a long time since I glanced through the waisted efforts book, so I 
won't really give a critique of it, but I'll say this: you do not fit a 
corset to the wearer's skin.  A corset reshapes, rather than matching, the 
figure; therefore, you should instead fit the corset to the parts of the 
wearer that are NOT reshapeable.  In other words, you fit the muscle and the 
bone, and let the fat fall where it may. I won't categorically reject the 
possibility of drafting a well-fitting corset from a pattern block, but I 
will dogmatically state that it's impossible unless you stop looking at it 
as being like any other garment.  The results I see from those who use the 
pattern block approach are often beautifully designed and constructed, but 
the fit is that of a skin-tight bodice with the shoulders cut off, which 
misses the point entirely!  One look at the sides of the waist gives the 
show away, and my goodness, those things must be uncomfortable.

That sounded really, really, rude, so I'd like to apologize now and avoid 
the rush. =}  I'm passionate about the fit of corsets, and when I see people 
wearing ill-fitting corsets and then going on and on about how uncomfortable 
and torturous corsets are, it makes my teeth itch.

As to the Waugh corset, again, I'm not saying it's inaccurate; I'm saying 
it's not representative.  The straight front was technically invented in 
1900, but there are corsets that provided a straight front from before then, 
and corsets that didn't after then.  In those first couple of years, there 
was a LOT of experimentation with the general idea; the Waugh corset is 
clearly from this era, and is one of the dead-end lines of experimentation. 
It's really just not that well-designed a corset, since a horizontal seam 
all the way across the side of the waist is a Bad Idea when it comes to this 
sort of thing.

The early straight fronts were different in a lot of ways from what came 
about after the experimental period, and while they would have been 
considered real straight fronts in 1900 and 1901, by the latter half of 1902 
they would have been completely out of step with the fashion and incapable 
of producing the fashionable silhouette.  To go back to the original 
question, the silhouette desired was that of the middle of the decade, and 
the corset desired was one that would enforce that forward-leaning pose 
sometimes called an S-curve.  The Waugh corset is not of the style used to 
create this silhouette.  When I first saw it 15 years ago, I thought, "Wow, 
yep, that's a stereotypical Edwardian corset!" When I look at it now, I 
think, "Wow!  What a weird example of an Edwardian corset!  It must be 
from--yep, I knew it: 1901."

These are typical example of the seaming used to get that mid-decade 
silhouette:
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/straightfrontcorsets/photos/view/3b35?b=7
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/straightfrontcorsets/photos/view/3b35?b=17
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/straightfrontcorsets/photos/view/3b35?b=15
(click large)

And for fun, this is from bizzaro-world (thank you, Lib of Congress):
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/straightfrontcorsets/photos/view/3b35?b=5

-E House 

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A friend and I made me a corset from the Past Patterns straight front corset pattern. However, it was not a simple/easy project: 

1) Following the initial sizing, did not give me the S-bend shape I was looking for -- we ended up making the top much more tight fitting then the bottom which causes me to relax into the S-bend shape. (This kind of fitting problem is endemic to corset patterns, though - they fit too close to easily be slotted into sizes). 

2) The more problematic part of the pattern was insufficient instructions for where to place the boning. There is a picture one is supposed to use, but it's a drawing of the corset crumpled up... It's very hard to figure out exact bone placement. Eventually we simply ignored the picture and marked where we thought the bones should go while I was wearing the corset. The funny thing is we ended up with a boning pattern that looks (when crumpled up as in the picture) a lot like the picture.

As a side note, my S shaped corset/straight front corset is not one of my most comfortable corsets - I think this is due to the S curve that it causes me to relax into. I'm used to corsets giving quite a lot of back support, but I find the S shaped corset gives me minor lower back aches - no worse then I get from sitting at my desk at work, but not the lovely support that I have from my hourglass (1890s) and regency corsets.

As to _Waisted Efforts_ -- I own the book, but it's mostly mock-ups and comparisons of mock-ups of the corsets from Waugh's _Corsets and Crinolines_. It uses a "block" technique for drafting the corsets to the right size...but I couldn't make heads or tails of that method. But I think the real "trick" to corsets comes in the fitting stage, in which millimeter differences in seams are actually noticeable, both to the shape and to how the corset fits. Unfortunately fitting yourself that closely is nearly impossible.

Hope that helps!
	-sunny


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight front corset
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In a message dated 8/4/2006 8:56:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sunshine_buchler@agilent.com writes:

A friend  and I made me a corset from the Past Patterns straight front corset 
pattern.  


*****************
 
I don't like this pattern
 
For one, I don't think the actual pattern looks like the illustration on  the 
envelope. The illustration is what I wanted but I had to make a pattern from  
a real corset of the period to get that. And that was very time consuming  
[needed resizing...with all those narrow curving pieces...ay yay yay!] and  
that's what I was trying to save...TIME...with getting the pattern in the 1st  
place.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight front corset
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In a message dated 8/4/2006 9:22:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

I don't  like this pattern



****************
 
In the interest of not being negative...I would like to add that Past  
Patterns makes a pattern for my favorite corset of all time...
#708  1845-1860 corset
 
I added a bone between each bone of this lightly boned corset and this has  
made it most useful. I think you get a good silhouette for 1830's to Bustle 
with  it. It's a beautiful shape!
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Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2006 22:04:54 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight front corset
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>That sounded really, really, rude, so I'd like to apologize now and avoid 
>the rush. =}  I'm passionate about the fit of corsets, and when I see 
>people wearing ill-fitting corsets and then going on and on about how 
>uncomfortable and torturous corsets are, it makes my teeth itch.

But my Waugh corset fits me well enough that I can wear it all living 
history day and live to tell the tale.  I'm not sure what your objection to 
it is.


>As to the Waugh corset, again, I'm not saying it's inaccurate; I'm saying 
>it's not representative.  The straight front was technically invented in 
>1900, but there are corsets that provided a straight front from before 
>then, and corsets that didn't after then.  In those first couple of years, 
>there was a LOT of experimentation with the general idea; the Waugh corset 
>is clearly from this era, and is one of the dead-end lines of 
>experimentation. It's really just not that well-designed a corset, since a 
>horizontal seam all the way across the side of the waist is a Bad Idea 
>when it comes to this sort of thing.

Mine is lined, and the seam at the waist doesn't cause a problem.  But 
then, I don't lace it super tightly, only tightly enough to produce the 
right curves, and I wear something for a chemise under it.

>The early straight fronts were different in a lot of ways from what came 
>about after the experimental period, and while they would have been 
>considered real straight fronts in 1900 and 1901, by the latter half of 
>1902 they would have been completely out of step with the fashion and 
>incapable of producing the fashionable silhouette.  To go back to the 
>original question, the silhouette desired was that of the middle of the 
>decade, and the corset desired was one that would enforce that 
>forward-leaning pose sometimes called an S-curve.  The Waugh corset is not 
>of the style used to create this silhouette.

We do 1901, and the Waugh one does fine for that.  I think it would do fine 
for 1904 or 1906 when that S-curve is much more pronounced.

>   When I first saw it 15 years ago, I thought, "Wow, yep, that's a 
> stereotypical Edwardian corset!" When I look at it now, I think, 
> "Wow!  What a weird example of an Edwardian corset!  It must be 
> from--yep, I knew it: 1901."

Wierd example it may be, but I've seen early examples, in like Sears 
catalogs, of pretty much the same thing.  Again, I'm not sure what your 
objection to it is.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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"A friend and I made me a corset from the Past Patterns straight front corset pattern. However, it was not a simple/easy project. (...)"
   
  This sounds exactly like I was afraid the pattern might be. As for comfort, I know very well that the straight-fronted corsets were actually the most uncomfortable and dangerous ones. However, this beautiful S-shape of the edwardian times can only be achieved by such a corset...
   
  "In the interest of not being negative...I would like to add that Past  
Patterns makes a pattern for my favorite corset of all time...
#708  1845-1860 corset"

  I've never used that pattern, but I have one favorite as well: the simplicity #7215. I've seen a 1869 corset which looks almost the same as the simplicity corset: http://www.tudorlinks.com/treasury/freepatterns/w1869scorsetpatt.html 
  So it should be accurate:-)) And it is very comfortable even when tight-laced. It is not, however, a straight-front corset:-((
   

 		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] straight front corset
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>However, this beautiful S-shape of the edwardian times can only be 
>achieved by such a corset...

It can be faked to some extent by pooching out the front of the bodice or 
shirtwaist, and adding a little fullness to the back of a straight-front 
skirt.  This enhancement seems to have been done in the period, in addition 
to the use of the straight-front corset.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] white cotton gloves for detail work.
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sadly, I've had to buy white cotton gloves off ebay. I can't seem to find 
any in stores. The price isn't too bad.



Catalina
nunca sin mi vino


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Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez wrote:
> sadly, I've had to buy white cotton gloves off ebay. I can't seem to 
> find any in stores. The price isn't too bad.
> 


	have you tried Vermont country Store? They carry both cotton dress 
gloves, sleeping gloves (not sure what the diffrence is, 0ther than 
price), and a sheer crocheted dress glove. I understand military supply 
places also carry them.

	<http://www.vermontcountrystore.com>


	-Judy Mitchell
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Subject: [h-cost] Pattern making books
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Hello, all.

I've been sewing for myself for a long time, and decided it might be 
time to make a few of my own designs.  I never follow sewing patterns to 
the letter anyway, they're just a launch point.

Can anyone recommend good pattern making books?

Thanks,
Michelle
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Actually ... Vogue patterns has a booklet that you can purchase about this. 
It is pretty damn good. Everyone that I know of that has ever used it loves 
it.

They even have a drafting pattern kit, well, they used to, that would be 
hidden in the very back of the last pattern case in the stores that carries 
their patterns.

Good luck!
Chiara

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michelle Plumb" <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 11:06 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Pattern making books


> Hello, all.
>
> I've been sewing for myself for a long time, and decided it might be time 
> to make a few of my own designs.  I never follow sewing patterns to the 
> letter anyway, they're just a launch point.
>
> Can anyone recommend good pattern making books?
>
> Thanks,
> Michelle
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pattern making books
Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2006 15:39:36 -0300
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"The Metric cutting system" books by Winifred Aldrich!  Amazing books!  
There's one for men, one for woen, and another for childern.

Kelly



"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Pattern making books
>Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2006 12:06:00 -0400
>
>Hello, all.
>
>I've been sewing for myself for a long time, and decided it might be time 
>to make a few of my own designs.  I never follow sewing patterns to the 
>letter anyway, they're just a launch point.
>
>Can anyone recommend good pattern making books?
>
>Thanks,
>Michelle
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern making books
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I know some very, very good source I've once briefly mentioned on this list before. It's all in German, however, but once you know the principe you don't really need to read the instructions, you just look at the pictures.
  It is a monthly magazine issued by a clothing academy in Münich (Deutsche Bekleidungsakademie München) called "Rundschau", which is probably the only magazine which concentrates on patternmaking. There are two magazines: one for women, one for men. In each issue, there are about 15 pages on patternmaking and the rest tells you about contemporary fashion, designers, modern techniques and general news for professional tailors. The pattern section itself teaches you how to make all sorts of clothes reaching from basic patterns for dress, trousers and skirts to very special items like ballet dress or even historical costume. Unfortunately, the costume part was more fashionable in the past than today, I think the latest costume part came out about ten years ago. But they don't sell only magazines, they also sell books - f.ex. book on making evening dresses. These books are actually collections from the magazines in which there was a section on the corresponding topic. The good
 new is that they have books on costumes, too! One for women's costume and one for men's. The periods they cover are all from renaissance to the beginning of the 20th century. The patterns out there are surprisingly good and the final shape looks quite period, the seams are all on the good places and the shape of the pattern pieces looks very accurate. There are, of course, little mistakes, but not very significant. 
  I purchased the women's costume book and I'm now waiting for it to get to the CZ, so I could then maybe scan one page or so for you to get an idea about what it is, if you were interested.
  The only problem is that they do not explain in each issue what do all the measurements mean and how to take them, and they tell you the instructions about how to make the slopes only once in about three years. And you have to learn their system, which may seem quite complicated on the first sight, but is actually quite nice when you get into it:-)) Well, if you were VERY interested, I think I could help you there a bit...
   
  Unfortunately, they don't have any real website, but here you can find some general info (in DE): http://www.ebnerpublishing.de/index.php?start=0&m1=2&m2=14&select=&search=rundschau&detail=67
  I've once found an ordering/subscription card and all the books and things you may purchase from them on the internet, but I think it isn't there any more or at least I can't find it. Again, if very interested, I could scan it for you, or send it to you by post.
   
  After an extensive search, I think I can afford to say that this source is probably the best patternmaking source (of modern fashion) that exists. As for historical costume making, I don't really know, but I think it's a real help. At least I haven't found anything similar.
   
  Don't hesitate to ask for more details:-))
   
  Zuzana
   
   
   

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  Pattern Making Books
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years ago. But they don't sell only magazines, they also sell books - 
f.ex. book on making evening dresses. These books are actually 
collections from the magazines in which there was a section on the 
corresponding topic. The good
  new is that they have books on costumes, too! One for women's costume 
and one for men's. The periods they cover are all from renaissance to 
the beginning of the 20th century. The patterns out there are 
surprisingly good and the final shape looks quite period, the seams are 
all on the good places and the shape of the pattern pieces looks very 
accurate. There are, of course, little mistakes, but not very significant.
-----------------
Could you post the titles, authors, and any other relevant publication 
data on the books?
-----------------------
   I've once found an ordering/subscription card and all the books and 
things you may purchase from them on the internet, but I think it isn't 
there any more or at least I can't find it. Again, if very interested, I 
could scan it for you, or send it to you by post.
------------------
Yes, thanks.
-------------


Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Historic Costume Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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In a message dated 8/5/06 7:01:36 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> [h-cost] Pattern making books
> 

metric pattern cutting by winifred aldwych (sp??)

as the title suggests, it's in centimetres, etc, but it's a standard text (in 
the uk at least), and the patterns (and blocks) are quite simple (once you 
get over the scary look of the thing!!) pretty much foolproof if you can do 
basic geometry and maths.

I started using it when I was about 11 and found it in the local library, so 
it can't be that hard!  it was later a required text for my university course.

only thing I'll say is don't trust the standard sizes in the size charts - 
they're based on the british standard, which is way out of date.
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: straight front corset 
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I needed to make a straight front corset to work with my sister's wedding
gown, a reproduction of Janet Arnold's 1901 ribbon dress.  The extra trick,
my sister has some scoliosis so I wasn't going to tight-lace her for her
wedding.

I started with Laughing Moon's basic corset.  The front pieces I
straightened out... and boned even for fittings. I flared out the hip pieces
so she went in a bit tightly and the hips flared very smoothly over her...
vs. doing much shaping.  This hip fitting gives the back of the "S". 

I don't have a good picture scanned, but even in the vamp shot here where
she's bending forward you can see the front and lack of curves there.
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/costumes/arnold1901/undervamp200.jpg   What
you can't see is the extra hip (which I did see in looking at pics of the
period corsets)

I laced her in a bit... but refused to tight lace.  You could pull it in
with one hand... and that's as far as we went. I got the "S" quiet easily
with the corset cover.  The front was heavily gathered.  (Sorry no pic I can
reach.)  These were just vertical in almost a stomacher pattern - sorry,
after 3 moves the books aren't in reach... but again, it was in a book.
However, I've also seen extra ruffles added to the top of the corset cover
or as a tie on.

She went though corset training, wearing it at least 2 horus a day 3 days a
week before the wedding.  The day of the wedding she was in it 18 hours, all
over the dance floor and the last one standing.  So... you can get the look
without killing the wearer.

Here's the final on the dummy who's also wearing the corset:
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/costumes/arnold1901/dummy1w.jpg .  In a side
shot... which I don't have scanned... there is a light "S"... even on the
rigid dummy.  

Remember, part of this look is also created from the dresses of the time
anyway.  The skirts were very slick in back and fitted smooth showing the
hip.  That was a new concept then... showing the real hip.  Well, kindof...
given it was under a couple layers of petticoats and the corset... but a
different shape.   The front is accentuated again by the style of the
dress... with the gathers and the short jacket.
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/costumes/arnold1901/Line300.gif 

 
Oh, and for pictures she could lean forward for a few moments to give the
really curvy "S"... but most times she stood straight and just had the light
"S" in front and the big "S" in back.  Then again... if she's had more bust,
we might have had more of a natural "S" flowing out over the top.  <G>


>>As a side note, my S shaped corset/straight front corset is not one of my
most comfortable corsets - I think this is due to the S curve that it causes
me to relax into. I'm used to corsets giving quite a lot of back support,
but I find the S shaped corset gives me minor lower back aches - no worse
then I get from sitting at my desk at work, but not the lovely support that
I have from my hourglass (1890s) and regency corsets.

Try expanding the back and side hip gussets next time but keep the solid
boning.  You're less likely to "relax" into it... and find it just sits
there.  (Yes, some of the waist pieces will be very thin strips at the
waist.)

>>  This sounds exactly like I was afraid the pattern might be. As for
comfort, I know very well that the straight-fronted corsets were actually
the most uncomfortable and dangerous ones. However, this beautiful S-shape
of the edwardian times can only be achieved by such a corset...

Any extreme can be uncomfortable like that.  Using the same technique, I
helped fit other straight front corset muslins releasing hordes at the back
hip area but keeping the waist controlled and even taking a bit more in.
That one turned out comfortable too.  She didn't add much fluff to the front
for the "S" as she was better equipped in the front.  
   
-Cat-

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Subject: [h-cost] Straight front corset
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>However, this beautiful S-shape of the edwardian times can only be achieved 
>by such a corset...

>It can be faked to some extent by pooching out the front of the bodice or 
>shirtwaist, and adding a little fullness to the back of a straight-front 
>skirt.  This enhancement seems to have been done in the period, in addition 
>to the use of the straight-front corset.

I've found that one's , uhm "natural enhancements" can aid extensively in 
creating the S-curve - I recently was shown a photo of myself  taken at SIT 
weekend in full Edwardian dress, where I know I am not wearing my corset (I 
was running late and had to come down the hill by bicycle) but you would 
never know it from my stance - forward thrust bustline and backward thrust 
behind - all from the dress, petticoat, shoes and natural build. So it makes 
sense that design elements can help fake the look, but will not be as 
effective as a proper corset.

Kelly Dorman
Backward Glances
www.backwardglances.net  (new purses recently added, hatpins following 
shortly!)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight front corset
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The "rude comment" part referred to my criticism of corset patterns 
developed from a pattern block as seen in Waisted Efforts--unless someone 
with a great deal of skill alters the pattern, the result is almost always 
all wrong.

As to extra padding, the Edwardians came up with an amazing range of 
garments and products to generate the right shape, from the inflatable bust 
pad to heavily boned bust forms and beyond.  Examples:
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/straightfrontcorsets/photos/browse/92a0

-E House 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight front corset
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>The "rude comment" part referred to my criticism of corset patterns 
>developed from a pattern block as seen in Waisted Efforts--unless someone 
>with a great deal of skill alters the pattern, the result is almost always 
>all wrong.

If you really didn't like the pattern I can see where you'd want to make 
rude comments about it.

>As to extra padding, the Edwardians came up with an amazing range of 
>garments and products to generate the right shape, from the inflatable 
>bust pad to heavily boned bust forms and beyond.  Examples:
>http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/straightfrontcorsets/photos/browse/92a0

Yep.  It's absolutely period to improve nature - for about any historical 
period there is - and, in fact, one of the things Edwardians used was 
called a "Bust Improver".

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Have you tried the local chemist/pharmacy? I used to buy mine there when i had awful eczema  - not incredibly cheap but a really useful thing indeed :-)
 
Katherine
 
"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright

 
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The idea that simply disagreeing with someone about something is "rude" 
is absurd.

As for _Waisted Efforts_:  Although I make corsets I've never drafted 
one from a pattern block.  But one thing I can say about that book, is 
that it seriously needs editing and proofreading.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

E House wrote:

> The "rude comment" part referred to my criticism of corset patterns 
> developed from a pattern block as seen in Waisted Efforts--unless 
> someone with a great deal of skill alters the pattern, the result is 
> almost always all wrong.

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Thread-Topic: Sept Vogue magazine cover.
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 It has not yet hit the newsstands, but it looks like the September
cover of Vogue magazine will have Kirsten Dunst costumed in the title
role of the movie "Marie Antoinette" 

Signals a photospread inside that should have all of us on the list
discussing the accuracy/inaccuracy of the costuming and movie
aesthetics, making the stars look good, director's vision, and costume
budget vs what is historically correct even before the movie hits our
local multiplexes. And for some of us, before the book tie-in and/or DVD
availability since the film may never arrive on our local movie screens.

Promises to be lots of fun!

Until then, brush up on 18th century fashion books, read or re-read
"Hollywood and History" by Edward Maeder, and pre-order "What Marie
Antoinette Wore to the Revolution."

Cindy Abel

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight front corset (Waisted Efforts)
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Status: RO

I've seen this book, and I didn't care for it for the very same reason. 
  It seems counterintuitive to try to make a corset from a pattern 
block.  There's an entirely different principle at work--a different 
kind of engineering, if you will.  It seems to be a book for people who 
want something that looks like a corset but doesn't actually function as 
one.

Also politely disagreeing,
Melanie Schuessler


Lavolta Press wrote:
> The idea that simply disagreeing with someone about something is "rude" 
> is absurd.
> 
> As for _Waisted Efforts_:  Although I make corsets I've never drafted 
> one from a pattern block.  But one thing I can say about that book, is 
> that it seriously needs editing and proofreading.
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> 
> E House wrote:
> 
>> The "rude comment" part referred to my criticism of corset patterns 
>> developed from a pattern block as seen in Waisted Efforts--unless 
>> someone with a great deal of skill alters the pattern, the result is 
>> almost always all wrong.
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Regency robe 1812
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Hi,

I found a beautifull picture on the web from a 1812 robe.
http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page8.html
http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page5.html

I have been asked to make a wedding dress in this style but I don't know 
much about it.
She send me two small drawings and the dress above was the only one I 
could find in the same style
It looks very french to me.
I can't seem to find more pictures of this style of dress.
I would love to have more pictures to see what types of fabric and 
embellishmend was used.

Greetings,
       Deredere



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency robe 1812
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At 11:08 08/08/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I found a beautifull picture on the web from a 1812 robe.
>http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page8.html
>http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page5.html
>
>I have been asked to make a wedding dress in this style but I don't 
>know much about it.
>She send me two small drawings and the dress above was the only one 
>I could find in the same style
>It looks very french to me.
>I can't seem to find more pictures of this style of dress.
>I would love to have more pictures to see what types of fabric and 
>embellishmend was used.

I think this is a gown with a separate court train attached at the 
waist (and possibly with straps over the shoulders.)
This is probably the most famous image of the style. (Various 
versions of the same painting by David.)

http://images.google.co.uk/images?q=Josephine+Coronation&hl=en&btnG=Search+Images

Suzi 

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Hi Deredere,
   The picture looks a lot the one titled  Robe de mousseline brodÃ©e c.1806 et chÃ¢le Cachemire from Gallery 4, but with a train and slighty more embellishment for a ceremonial engagement.
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 6:08 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Regency robe 1812


Hi, 
 
I found a beautifull picture on the web from a 1812 robe. 
http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page8.html 
http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page5.html 
 
I have been asked to make a wedding dress in this style but I don't know much about it. 
She send me two small drawings and the dress above was the only one I could find in the same style 
It looks very french to me. 
I can't seem to find more pictures of this style of dress. 
I would love to have more pictures to see what types of fabric and embellishmend was used. 
 
Greetings, 
  Deredere 
 
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency robe 1812
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In a message dated 8/8/2006 8:35:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
taniampembroke@aol.com writes:

have  been asked to make a wedding dress in this style but I don't know much 
about  it. 
She send me two small drawings and the dress above was the only one I  could 
find in the same style 
It looks very french to me. 
I can't seem  to find more pictures of this style of dress. 
I would love to have more  pictures to see what types of fabric and 
embellishmend was used.  




The book, "Age of Napoleon" has some nice pictures of French court  dress.  
While most of the trains were velvet, there is one pictured, if  memory serves, 
where the train was the same fabric as the dress.
 
The train would be separate and, if heavy, it would indeed have straps over  
the shoulders.  This dress looks like it is all silk, with embroidery  edging 
the train.  Perhaps you could find a nice wide embroidered edging  that you 
could use instead--shaping it around the train could be a little  tricky, but 
not impossible.  The ruff around the neck was most like tulle,  although you 
could probably also use silk organza or lace.
 
There used to be all kinds of wedding dress patterns with detachable  trains, 
but they seem to have disappeared.  Still, it shouldn't be too hard  to 
create a train to the dimensions you want.
 
Of course, much depends on if the bride wants her dress exactly like that,  
or just inspired by it.
 
Ann Wass
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Regency robe 1812
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 10:18:34 -0500
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This might help with ideas as well.
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/realvict/1800s.html
The poicture you posted, the train is a separate piece from the main gown.
This works well for a wedding dress as the train can be removed for the
reception.

Wedding dress. This is a coat style with under dress.
http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=true&id=49614&coll_key
words=wedding%20dress&coll_package=0&coll_start=1

Note, not all trains are removable. :)
I think the museum have the paisley's listed as being printed on the fabric.
http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/userimages/collection/large/batmc_i_09_906.
jpg

The site were your picture came from
http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page4.html
http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page7.html
http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page5.html

w/train
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/dreh/ho_C.I.37.46.1.htm

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi,

I found a beautifull picture on the web from a 1812 robe.
http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page8.html
http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page5.html

I have been asked to make a wedding dress in this style but I don't know
much about it.
She send me two small drawings and the dress above was the only one I
could find in the same style
It looks very french to me.
I can't seem to find more pictures of this style of dress.
I would love to have more pictures to see what types of fabric and
embellishmend was used.

Greetings,
       Deredere



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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight front corset (Waisted Efforts)
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2006 12:47:25 -0300
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While I totally agree with the dislike of 'Waisted Efforts', it is for other 
reasons...the lack of important information.  Bob Doyle uses many different 
methods in his work, but leaves out crucial information in both this book 
and his latest on Tailoring.

I have always drafted corsets from blocks, I was taught the full method 
while at school, and have never had a problem.  They do the job very nicely.

Probably a stupid question, but how do you all develope the pattern for the 
different corsets you do?

Kelly



"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight front corset (Waisted Efforts)
>Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2006 07:34:58 -0500
>
>I've seen this book, and I didn't care for it for the very same reason.  It 
>seems counterintuitive to try to make a corset from a pattern block.  
>There's an entirely different principle at work--a different kind of 
>engineering, if you will.  It seems to be a book for people who want 
>something that looks like a corset but doesn't actually function as one.
>
>Also politely disagreeing,
>Melanie Schuessler
>
>
>Lavolta Press wrote:
>>The idea that simply disagreeing with someone about something is "rude" is 
>>absurd.
>>
>>As for _Waisted Efforts_:  Although I make corsets I've never drafted one 
>>from a pattern block.  But one thing I can say about that book, is that it 
>>seriously needs editing and proofreading.
>>
>>Fran
>>Lavolta Press
>>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
>>E House wrote:
>>
>>>The "rude comment" part referred to my criticism of corset patterns 
>>>developed from a pattern block as seen in Waisted Efforts--unless someone 
>>>with a great deal of skill alters the pattern, the result is almost 
>>>always all wrong.
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
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>
>
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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This is a style i made some years ago with a long train, embroidered with 
seaquins. It was made of pink dupioni, because the hairdressers who ordered 
it, couldnt afford more. It is a seperate train attached round the waist 
with a belt closed in the front.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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> Probably a stupid question, but how do you all develope the 
> pattern for the different corsets you do?

I prefer to start from an existing pattern - either from blowing up one of Waugh's _Corsets & Crinolines_ patterns or from a commercial pattern (like Past Patterns) and then fit the heck out of a mock up. Followed by more fitting of the actual corset.

The final shape of each piece is almost never exactly from the pattern, but it get's the right shape and lines.

The biggest drawback of my method is that I cannot make a corset for myself without _a whole lot_ of help from someone who is skilled at fitting, especially how corsets fit -- since the slightest bubbles that would appear non-existent in a comparatively loose fitting 20th century dress can be quite uncomfortable in a corset, when worn tight-laced all day. 
	-sunny

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Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 13:14:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Straight front) corset - fitting
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I've got another probably stupid question: How do you do the fitting??? I mean the corset is - at leat at the waist - much smaller than your real figure, so how can you actually try it on when not yet finished? It must be tight laced and there must be bones in it, else I cannot imagine a fitting. If there are no bones, there will always be wrinkles. And what about the stitching? It must be quite strong to not tear when laced up...
   
  Zuzana

 		
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060808201413.32162.qmail@web37505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Straight front) corset - fitting
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 15:46:51 -0500
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Status: RO

Make up a fitting corset out of inexpensive but heavy & non-stretch fabric. 
(You may want to mine the $1/yd table at walmart, or your local equivalent.) 
For fitting purposes, you only need one bone per side at the front, side, 
and back; front-side and back-side bones can be added to combat wrinkles on 
larger figures. Since the fit of the busk pocket at front and the lacing 
strips in the rear won't change, go ahead and make those with your real 
corset fabric, and baste them to the fitting corset.  Then, each element of 
the fitting corset will be useful for the real corset: the fitting corset 
itself will become the pattern, and the busk and laces sections will go into 
the real corset.  If you make corsets often, you may want to make and save a 
re-useable busk and laces set.

Sew the fitting corset by machine; use a long stitch length, and a tension 
loose enough that it will be relatively easy to pick out the stitches, but 
use a strong thread (such as hand quilting thread).  To simulate the fit of 
a garment with finished seams, clip all seam allowances at the curves, then 
push the seam allowances to one side and topstitch.  This sort of 
construction won't be up to long term use, but it will definitely be enough 
for the fitting process.

While you have the fitting corset on, you might want to take the opportunity 
to mark where the bones should go.  (Only do this after you are satisfied 
with the fit of the corset!)  Even with the few bones you've put into the 
fitting corset, you'll probably find that they're not in quite the right 
spot; you can tell this if it feels like the bones twist slightly, rather 
than laying flat along your body.  This is especially problematic with the 
side-front bones of a straight-front! To mark where the bones should go, get 
a roll of tape about 3/4" to 1" wide. The wideness of the tape helps avoid 
errors; if you can get something that wide to lay flat, then the much 
narrower bone channels certainly will.  Cut a piece of tape long enough for 
a bone channel, and while wearing the corset, lay it where you think the 
bone channel should be.  I find it helps to affix the tape first at the 
waist, then smooth it up and down; it gives you the best control of where 
the channel will wind up.

-E House 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Straight front) corset - fitting
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Status: RO

You do not have to tight lace to get the correct silhouette for any 
period. You can make a corset your size, or an inch smaller, without 
tight lacing. Support and a period silhouette are one thing, extreme 
body modification (temporary or permanent) is another.

As various people have said, a period silhoutte does not depend entirely 
on the corset. Depending on the period, a period silhouette also depends 
on padding, hoopskirts, bustles, petticoats, ruffles, optical illusions 
  in the dress style, and conscious posture and movement that is not 
actually forced by any understructure.

However, one thing you can do is make two lacing strips. These are 
strips of strong fabric with eyelets in them like a corset, more or less 
the length of a corset. You baste them to each side of every corset 
muslin you make, so you can lace it up like a corset to try on.

Also, the person fitting you does not have to be skilled at fitting or 
sewing.  (My husband fits my corsets.)  What you need is someone able to 
follow directions, and a two-mirror system. You can get cheap 
full-length mirrors, meant for bathroom doors and so on, at hardware 
stores and building supply places. Set up one in front of you and one 
behind you, so you can look at your back while the person fits your 
garment and tell them what to do.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> I've got another probably stupid question: How do you do the fitting??? 

I mean the corset is - at leat at the waist - much smaller than your 
real figure,

so how can you actually try it on when not yet finished?

It must be tight laced and there must be bones in it,

else I cannot imagine a fitting. If there are no bones, there will 
always be

wrinkles. And what about the stitching? It must be quite strong to not tear

when laced up...
>    
>   Zuzana
> 
>  		
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
>  Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Straight front) corset - fitting
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Status: RO

At 21:46 08/08/2006, you wrote:
>Make up a fitting corset out of inexpensive but heavy & non-stretch 
>fabric. (You may want to mine the $1/yd table at walmart, or your 
>local equivalent.) For fitting purposes, you only need one bone per 
>side at the front, side, and back; front-side and back-side bones 
>can be added to combat wrinkles on larger figures. Since the fit of 
>the busk pocket at front and the lacing strips in the rear won't 
>change, go ahead and make those with your real corset fabric, and 
>baste them to the fitting corset.  Then, each element of the fitting 
>corset will be useful for the real corset: the fitting corset itself 
>will become the pattern, and the busk and laces sections will go 
>into the real corset.  If you make corsets often, you may want to 
>make and save a re-useable busk and laces set.
>
>Sew the fitting corset by machine; use a long stitch length, and a 
>tension loose enough that it will be relatively easy to pick out the 
>stitches, but use a strong thread (such as hand quilting 
>thread).  To simulate the fit of a garment with finished seams, clip 
>all seam allowances at the curves, then push the seam allowances to 
>one side and topstitch.  This sort of construction won't be up to 
>long term use, but it will definitely be enough for the fitting process.
>
>While you have the fitting corset on, you might want to take the 
>opportunity to mark where the bones should go.  (Only do this after 
>you are satisfied with the fit of the corset!)  Even with the few 
>bones you've put into the fitting corset, you'll probably find that 
>they're not in quite the right spot; you can tell this if it feels 
>like the bones twist slightly, rather than laying flat along your 
>body.  This is especially problematic with the side-front bones of a 
>straight-front! To mark where the bones should go, get a roll of 
>tape about 3/4" to 1" wide. The wideness of the tape helps avoid 
>errors; if you can get something that wide to lay flat, then the 
>much narrower bone channels certainly will.  Cut a piece of tape 
>long enough for a bone channel, and while wearing the corset, lay it 
>where you think the bone channel should be.  I find it helps to 
>affix the tape first at the waist, then smooth it up and down; it 
>gives you the best control of where the channel will wind up.


Good Lord, how complicated!!  I make up a corset, in the fabric I 
intend to use, from a customer's measurements, seam the centre front 
instead of using a busk, but eyelet the back in the normal way. I fit 
with the seams on the outside, with plenty of seam allowance. But 
then I have been doing it for 25 years.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Straight front) corset - fitting
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 8/8/2006 6:20:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Good  Lord, how complicated!!  I make up a corset, in the fabric I 
intend  to use, from a customer's measurements, seam the centre front 
instead of  using a busk, but eyelet the back in the normal way. I fit 
with the seams  on the outside, with plenty of seam allowance. But 
then I have been doing  it for 25 years.



*****************
This is what I do.
 
On "Last of the Mohicans" we made up boned mock-up corsets out of  muslin 
using grosgrain ribbon for boning casings, fixed [as in not to be  changed] the 
CF and laced CB and left much seam allowance on the outside  when the other 
seams were based up. This mock up was then fitted.  Any changes were marked on 
the pattern and the real corset of real fabric was  then made up from the 
corrected pattern. The mock up...now taken apart, was  covered with a better fabric, 
sewn up with the seam allowance on the inside,  bound, and an extra or day 
player wore them.
 
Also...for theatre [after my "Mohicans" experience] I would make up the  
lining of the real corset and bone it, again using ribbon for casings. [An  
advantage of this is the seam allowances on the outside and the boning on the  
outside are where they will be in the finished piece.] Then after it was  fitted, 
and corrections marked, the outside fabric would be laid over the  lining, now 
taken apart [but it could be done all put together], with the  boning casings 
[and seam allowances if you want] sandwiched between. Then,  using the machine 
stitched lines of the casings in the lining as a guide, hand  stitched the 
vent lines through all layers to the front. [Now  you can put  it all back 
together if it's not already.] You end up with what looks like  a hand sewn corset! 
Perfect for those scenes where you see it. If you don't have  time for hand 
sewing [those already marked straight lines really don't take too  long to 
do...and you can curve the corset a bit as you do it for a really smooth  look.] 
you can just leave it, or do it by machine.
 
I was talking 18th century stays here...where a bone rarely if ever  crosses 
a seam. But you could do it for a 19th century corset too. In fact,  later 
19th century corsets have the boning casings on the outside. If you use a  fancy 
[but sturdy] ribbon for that, it can look quite  fetching.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Straight front) corset - fitting
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Good Lord, how complicated!!  I make up a corset, in the fabric I intend 
> to use, from a customer's measurements, seam the centre front instead of 
> using a busk, but eyelet the back in the normal way. I fit with the seams 
> on the outside, with plenty of seam allowance. But then I have been doing 
> it for 25 years.

It sounds more complicated than it is, and is only necessary for the fiddly 
corsets, like straightfronts.  With the extremely narrow pieces involved in 
the straight front, and the importance of having the exact right curve in 
those narrow pieces, you'll definitely need to test it out first. 
Otherwise, you'll find yourself needing seam allowances several times wider 
than the pattern piece itself!  Picture a curved piece that's about an inch 
wide, and the same piece with a slightly sharper curve.  Lay one on top of 
the other, and the ends don't match up at ALL.

Granted, I've only been making straight fronts for about a decade, but 
believe me, it's enough time to learn this lesson. =} For corsets with less 
complicated seaming, such as the Elizabethans or the Victorians, a fitting 
corset is rarely necessary.

-E House 

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Thanks for the response.
I think it is a great style for a wedding dress.
And a removable train makes it even better.

But the waist is a little higher than normal waist how do you keep the 
belt at the right hight?

Bjarne do you have pictures of the dress you made?
Maby she wants hand embroidery or machine embroidery on her train.
Or I could use applications and hand embroidery...

Greetings,
       Deredere


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> This is a style i made some years ago with a long train, embroidered 
> with seaquins. It was made of pink dupioni, because the hairdressers 
> who ordered it, couldnt afford more. It is a seperate train attached 
> round the waist with a belt closed in the front.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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The problem with starting from a pattern block/sloper is, that a modern 
sloper is a modern pattern with modern seam lines, etc.  Now, you _can_ 
turn it into a historic pattern of any kind for any era, and some people 
do.

(BTW, the Victorians manufactured a large number of "sloper" systems, 
many as cardboard "charts", some in metal (such as the McDowell system, 
which were designed to create a perfect-fitting "pattern block" the user 
could adapt to any fashionable variant.  AND if the company stayed in 
business they had to update their sloper shape every few years to keep 
their customers. Because, the basic bodice pattern shapes and even the 
number of pieces in the bodice kept changing.)

Some people who are really comfortable with one method of producing a 
pattern, such as using a pattern block/sloper or draping, get so 
familiar with it that for them it is the easiest way to produce all 
patterns, and they are sincerely convinced that therefore it is the 
easiest method for everyone and everything.

However, in order to turn a pattern block into a historic corset or any 
other kind of historic pattern, you already have to know a lot about 
where seam lines are placed and other aspects of fit.  Again, some 
people do, and anyone else can research this.

But for some people, whether they have this information or not, it is 
easier to start out with a historic pattern that already has the correct 
number of pieces and correctly arranged seam lines--both very important 
for a corset--and make the pattern fit their body.

In other words, if you are not using a presized pattern such as Past 
Patterns, you have a choice between altering the style (using the 
pattern block) and altering the fit (using the period pattern).  Of 
course, a one-size period pattern will be closer to some people's size 
than other people's.

One area of confusion in discussing making corsets is that people do not 
always say how much they are tight lacing.  The more extreme the changes 
you are trying to make in your body, the harder it is to make the corset 
work.

And yes, fashionable S-bend Edwardians did often pad or otherwise "fake" 
their bosoms (with things like a camisole under the dress with rows of 
starched ruffles in front), and they did sometimes wear hip pads, and 
there were many ingenious contrivances to create the silhouette in 
addition to the corset.

They also assumed different fashionable postures in walking, standing, 
etc.  The basic high-fashion posture show in period illustrations is to 
lean forward from the waist, push the bosom out, throw the head back, 
and stick the behind out; and you'll notice sometimes, they push the 
back of one hand in the small of the back.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> I've seen this book, and I didn't care for it for the very same reason. 
>  It seems counterintuitive to try to make a corset from a pattern 
> block.  There's an entirely different principle at work--a different 
> kind of engineering, if you will.  It seems to be a book for people who 
> want something that looks like a corset but doesn't actually function as 
> one.
> 
> Also politely disagreeing,
> Melanie Schuessler
> 
>
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] regency robe 1812
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 03:39:07 -0500
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It appears that there are straps.
http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page8.html
follow the roses up to the bodice, there seems to be something that looks
like a strap just under the sleeve that matches the waist band of the train.

De

-----Original Message-----
But the waist is a little higher than normal waist how do you keep the
belt at the right hight?


Greetings,
       Deredere



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight front corset (Waisted Efforts)
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In a message dated 8/9/2006 4:26:32 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

They  also assumed different fashionable postures in walking, standing,  
etc.


******************
 
This can be really important. You can dress someone up to the nines and if  
they slouch....or don't slouch, whichever the period requires, it won't be  
convincing. That erect, hands folded at about waist level stance of the 18th  
century just wouldn't fly where the leaning back contraposto pose of the 1920's  
and 30's is supposed to be.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency robe 1812
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In a message dated 8/9/2006 3:52:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl writes:

But the  waist is a little higher than normal waist how do you keep the 
belt at the  right hight?




Yes, it is hard to keep a belt at the raised waist.  
 
I would put big skirt hooks and eyes on to hold the train--hooks on the  
train, eyes on the dress, with a bias band, just attached on the top edge,  around 
the waist, that would flip down to hide the eyes when the train was  
detached.  I don't have any of my 1960s era wedding dress patterns anymore,  but, if 
memory serves, this is how they handled the detachable train.  
 
Ann Wass
 
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency robe 1812
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In a message dated 8/9/2006 10:33:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

I would  put big skirt hooks and eyes on to hold the train--hooks on the   
train, eyes on the dress, with a bias band, just attached on the top  edge,  
around 
the waist, that would flip down to hide the eyes when  the train was  
detached. 


Mmmmm...not bad.
 
But what's wrong with thread loops? or thread bars for the hooks? I hope  the 
train is not THAT heavy.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Straight front) corset - fitting
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 09:20:39 -0600
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] (Straight front) corset - fitting
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> I've got another probably stupid question: How do you do the 
> fitting??? I mean the corset is - at leat at the waist - much 
> smaller than your real figure, so how can you actually try it 
> on when not yet finished? It must be tight laced and there 
> must be bones in it, else I cannot imagine a fitting. If 
> there are no bones, there will always be wrinkles. And what 
> about the stitching? It must be quite strong to not tear when 
> laced up...


The mock-up is made out of heavy non-stretchy fabric -- cotton drill, canvas, jean, and you have to use regular stitching, not basting length stitches. I use a "sew on" set of eyelets (as Jen Thompson describes using for fitting her 1515 Italian dress - I'd give the web link, but the site appears to be down so I can't be sure of the url). I first fit using that shell. Bones are actually not required to get the initial fit - certain seams may require them, but mostly they just smooth out wrinkle-spots. After the initial mostly unboned fitting, I mark where I think the bones will go, and use twill-tape casings to put them in. Then fit the mock-up again, smoothing out wrinkles and undesired bulges :-) (which are usually dealt with by minute adjustments of the width of a seam.

Sometimes I skip the mock-up and just do all the alterations and bone-placement stuff on the actual corset. This works best if the corset is unlined, which I only do if I'm using coutil as the corset fabric. I only skip the mock up step if I'm starting from a commercial pattern, and am therefore pretty assured that the initial corset is close to my size or bigger.

Hope that makes sense!
	-sunny

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight front corset (Waisted Efforts)
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Yes.  I think sometimes people expect foundation garments alone to give 
a period posture.  They don't.

Fran

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>  
> In a message dated 8/9/2006 4:26:32 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> fran@lavoltapress.com writes:
> 
> They  also assumed different fashionable postures in walking, standing,  
> etc.
> 
> 
> ******************
>  
> This can be really important. You can dress someone up to the nines and if  
> they slouch....or don't slouch, whichever the period requires, it won't be  
> convincing. That erect, hands folded at about waist level stance of the 18th  
> century just wouldn't fly where the leaning back contraposto pose of the 1920's  
> and 30's is supposed to be.
>
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http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4890=x&TI=10
013&page=1

The tall lace at neckline I believe would be on A but you would most likely
have a different closing.
The skirt of B would only come the side seams would be to match the pink
gown's train. The bodice front would be open more. No darts in the back but
back side seams, back neckline would be wider and lower (if doing the
"jacket" bodice style). Or use the "skirt" of B and sew on a "waistband"
with matching arm loops (or if appliqué' on the train, have it go up and
match it on the arm loops. Think simple harness with train attached.

The trains were usually ceremonial.
http://www.centraalmuseum.nl/database/Item.phtml?ItemId=21&Terug=1

A variation, coat style
http://www.musees-nationaux-napoleoniens.org/pages/page_id19241_u1l2.htm

I have my doubts about the hook and eyes to hold up the train. I think it
will hang funny.

De


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Subject: [h-cost] A Festive Attyre website
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At 11:00 AM 8/9/2006, you wrote:
>Message: 4
>Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 09:20:39 -0600
>From: <sunshine_buchler@agilent.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Straight front) corset - fitting
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID:
>         <63D1F08E0E9EAF4185B5AE02D5C0D964011C3AB4@wcosmb05.cos.agilent.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"
>
>
> > I've got another probably stupid question: How do you do the
> > fitting??? I mean the corset is - at leat at the waist - much
> > smaller than your real figure, so how can you actually try it
> > on when not yet finished? It must be tight laced and there
> > must be bones in it, else I cannot imagine a fitting. If
> > there are no bones, there will always be wrinkles. And what
> > about the stitching? It must be quite strong to not tear when
> > laced up...
>
>
>The mock-up is made out of heavy non-stretchy fabric -- cotton drill, 
>canvas, jean, and you have to use regular stitching, not basting length 
>stitches. I use a "sew on" set of eyelets (as Jen Thompson describes using 
>for fitting her 1515 Italian dress - I'd give the web link, but the site 
>appears to be down so I can't be sure of the url).


Jen Thompson's website has a new address: www.festiveattyre.com
I just stumbled across this last week.
Julie

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <002501c6bb15$101c1120$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
	<44D993CE.5000809@kabelfoon.nl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency robe 1812
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 20:18:39 +0200
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Hi,
I dont have pictures of that dress online anymore, it was years ago i made 
it.
But i remember i pinned the belt at the high waist, to make it stay 
there..................
I have a costume catalogue from Lisboa where they had a great exhibition 
about royal dresses of the period, there were many many with this style, all 
embroidered.
Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 9:50 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency robe 1812


> Thanks for the response.
> I think it is a great style for a wedding dress.
> And a removable train makes it even better.
>
> But the waist is a little higher than normal waist how do you keep the 
> belt at the right hight?
>
> Bjarne do you have pictures of the dress you made?
> Maby she wants hand embroidery or machine embroidery on her train.
> Or I could use applications and hand embroidery...
>
> Greetings,
>       Deredere
>
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>> This is a style i made some years ago with a long train, embroidered with 
>> seaquins. It was made of pink dupioni, because the hairdressers who 
>> ordered it, couldnt afford more. It is a seperate train attached round 
>> the waist with a belt closed in the front.
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency robe 1812
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 20:26:01 +0200
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Hi again,
As mentioned the museum catalogue i have, most of these dresses are made of 
silk taffeta, embroidered along the train border wich is rounded at the end, 
and on the hem of the dress skirts. They are to match the heavily 
embroidered mens costumes, wich continued to be worn into the 1800 years. 
Embroideries are silk embroideries.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency robe 1812


>
> In a message dated 8/8/2006 8:35:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> taniampembroke@aol.com writes:
>
> have  been asked to make a wedding dress in this style but I don't know 
> much
> about  it.
> She send me two small drawings and the dress above was the only one I 
> could
> find in the same style
> It looks very french to me.
> I can't seem  to find more pictures of this style of dress.
> I would love to have more  pictures to see what types of fabric and
> embellishmend was used.
>
>
>
>
> The book, "Age of Napoleon" has some nice pictures of French court  dress.
> While most of the trains were velvet, there is one pictured, if  memory 
> serves,
> where the train was the same fabric as the dress.
>
> The train would be separate and, if heavy, it would indeed have straps 
> over
> the shoulders.  This dress looks like it is all silk, with embroidery 
> edging
> the train.  Perhaps you could find a nice wide embroidered edging  that 
> you
> could use instead--shaping it around the train could be a little  tricky, 
> but
> not impossible.  The ruff around the neck was most like tulle,  although 
> you
> could probably also use silk organza or lace.
>
> There used to be all kinds of wedding dress patterns with detachable 
> trains,
> but they seem to have disappeared.  Still, it shouldn't be too hard  to
> create a train to the dimensions you want.
>
> Of course, much depends on if the bride wants her dress exactly like that,
> or just inspired by it.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency robe 1812
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In a message dated 8/9/2006 10:41:49 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

But  what's wrong with thread loops? or thread bars for the hooks? I hope  
the  
train is not THAT heavy.



Yes, those would work, too, and "hide" better.  I have usually seen  those 
used on gowns with lace trim, where they blend in, but a matching color of  
thread, right on the waistline seam, should be fairly inconspicuous.  
 
I take it this is not going to be one of the long velvet variety that is so  
heavy it would absolutely need the shoulder straps.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] India cotton prints
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Dear Costumers,
I've been in lurk mode for a while -- you know that moment where you  
realize all your insights and information are only new and wonderful  
to you? But in the meantime, I've been assembling a Web store to show  
the India cotton block prints I've been importing. The store is now  
operational at http://www.timetraveltextiles.com.

Most of what I've got is suitable for 18th century -- I began this  
project in an effort to make more appropriate cotton prints available  
for 18th-century re-enactors.  About a third of the wares resemble  
medieval India trade fabrics. I've got both yard goods and saris, as  
well as a few block printed dupattas.

I use PayPal for handling payments, but you do not need a PayPal  
account to buy through the store -- it also allows me to accept  
credit cards.

I hope to continue to improve both the site and the selection of  
goods. Please visit, and enjoy the fabrics.
Thank you for your indulgence.
Sincerely,
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net
lauren@timetraveltextiles.com
http://www.timetraveltextiles.com



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	Fri, 11 Aug 2006 12:02:43 PDT
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2006 12:02:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: Historical Costume List <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Patterns on Ebay
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I have finally gotten around to listing my patterns. I have everything except my Past Patterns collections up, which those will go up later this evening. 

My seller ID is insaneseamstress:
http://search.ebay.ca/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZinsaneseamstress

Hope that link works.

I have listed everything with a starting price below current market values - or at least the ones I could find. 

Kathy
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
 
Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131




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Hello all,

I am developing a couple classes for ecampus.  I began to wonder what  
kind of textiles/ apparel classes people want, but can never find.  I  
know what I like, but what would you like to see offered?

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 10:52:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dream class
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi Althea.  I would love any class that is offered.  We can never stop learning.
  Lady Von
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
  

Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com> wrote:
  Hello all,

I am developing a couple classes for ecampus. I began to wonder what 
kind of textiles/ apparel classes people want, but can never find. I 
know what I like, but what would you like to see offered?

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have 
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into 
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the 
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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From: "Becky Rautine" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] dream class
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 14:49:40 -0400
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I'd like to learn more on how to adapt a pattern such as tailoring or 
altering a pattern for every size. Suggestions of what to do when something 
sags or when something is too tight. Just being told "make it smaller or 
take a tuck here" may not fully explain what is needed. Step by Step 
alterations for costuming and period productions.

Sincerely,
Becky Rautine




From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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FILETIME=[D50EAE40:01C6BE2E]

Hello all,

I am developing a couple classes for ecampus.  I began to wonder what  kind 
of textiles/ apparel classes people want, but can never find.  I  know what 
I like, but what would you like to see offered?

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  company in 
their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  anything; they want us 
to believe like peasants and not ask the  reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Need feedback on possible lecture appearance
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Status: RO


[Please feel free to forward this to other lists or people who might be
interested. Please copy me in if you forward it to a list, so I know where
this message travels. Thanks.]

As many of you on this list know, I periodically do full-day lecture
programs on medieval dress, usually focusing on the 14th and 15th century,
directed toward historical costumers and re-enactors. Although I've lived
here in St. Louis, Missouri, for the last seven years, I have not yet
given a set of public lectures here in my hometown, although I've done
some guest lectures at local universities.

So: I've been discussing with the planners of CostumeCon 25 the
possibility of my presenting such a lecture program in affiliation with
that event. CostumeCon is an convention structured rather like an sf con,
but focused specifically on costuming: fantasy and sf, theatrical,
historical, re-enactment, cosplay, and more. CC25 will be here in St.
Louis, March 30 through April 2, 2007. The website is here:
	http://www.cc25.net/

The con planners are committed to reaching out to a broad range of
costumers. It has occurred to some of us that if CC25 sponsors one of my
"lecture days" as an ancillary activity to the con, it might attract some
historical costumers who haven't yet had contact with the CostumeCon
community. That would give CC some broader exposure, and also provide a
programming feature that some existing CC members would enjoy.

However, the con can't commit the function space and other resources for
my appearance unless it's clear that a sufficient number of people would
be interested in attending my lectures. (That would include people who
decide to spend the day in my lecture room as part of attending the larger
convention, and it would also include people who buy a one-day membership
just to go to my lectures.) Ideally we would firm this up before the next
price break on advance memberships, in case it influences people's plans,
but we can't know what the numbers look like till much later than that.

So, we thought we'd ask around. I've found that my appearances often draw
people from a multi-state area and from a variety of fields (re-enactment,
academic, theatrical), so I'd be very grateful if this message gets passed
around to appropriate groups (particularly SCA/medieval/theatrical groups
in the Midwest), and if people who are interested could give me feedback
on the following questions:

-- If I gave a lecture program at CostumeCon, would you seriously consider
attending?

-- If so, would you go just for a single day (my lectures plus any evening
con programming on that day), or would you go ahead and sign up for the
whole con? (Membership reservations for the four-day convention right now
cost $85; the price will go up after Halloween.)

-- Would it make a difference in your decision if my lecture series were
scheduled at CostumeCon on Friday, March 30, or on Saturday, March 31? (I
would ask not to be scheduled on Sunday, as I'd overlap with the
historical costume competition, and obviously the con attendees interested
in historic costume would have a conflict.) If you'd be doing a day trip,
I should note that the fee for the lecture series (including access to
rest of the con) would probably be about $25 on Friday. On Saturday, it
would be about $50, because there's more programming on Saturday,
including the knock-em-dead f/sf costume competition in the evening. If
there's enough interest, I'd find out whether we can arrange for a
limited-access membership on Saturday for people interested only in my
lectures and not the rest of the con. However, the con is a pretty
exciting event, and I'd hope that the chance to attend my lectures would
offer some people the motivation to attend the con itself, for one day or
the whole event.

-- Finally, if you think you would come for the lectures (and all or part
of the con), would you (or your party) also expect to take a hotel room at
the con?

I should add that my most likely lecture program would cover four topics:
the Gothic fitted dress ("cotehardie"), the Greenland gored dress (the
so-called "ten-gore gown"), the sideless surcote, and the 15th century
("Burgundian") V-necked gown. Depending on time, I might be able to add in
a fifth lecture on women's heraldic dress. My lectures focus heavily on
how to interpret art, documentary evidence, and extant artifacts for clues
on how a given style might have been made and worn, and what it would have
meant to the people who wore or observed it. I use lots of slides and some
reproduction examples, and I discuss construction as an element of the
overall topics.

Your responses -- send them straight to me, NOT to the list -- will help
us figure out whether it's worthwhile to devote function space to my
program.

Thanks for reading.

--Robin

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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:55:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] dream class
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

How to draft a sleeve pattern that matches the
armhole. Draping the body is easy. Figuring out how to
make the sleeve so it doesn't pull or bind is a trick
I've yet to figure out ( (And why I love tie-in
sleeves).

MaggiRos

--- Becky Rautine <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:

> I'd like to learn more on how to adapt a pattern
> such as tailoring or 
> altering a pattern for every size. Suggestions of
> what to do when something 
> sags or when something is too tight. Just being told
> "make it smaller or 
> take a tuck here" may not fully explain what is
> needed. Step by Step 
> alterations for costuming and period productions.
> 
> Sincerely,
> Becky Rautine
> 
> 
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From: Carol Mitchell <carolscostuming5@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 570
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Status: RO

What is ecampus, please? I haven't been able to keep up with the digest very well for health reasons.
  Thanks
  Carol

h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
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Today's Topics:

1. Patterns on Ebay (Kathy Page)
2. dream class (Althea Turner)
3. Re: dream class (Voncile W. Dudley)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2006 12:02:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kathy Page 
Subject: [h-cost] Patterns on Ebay
To: Historical Costume List 
Message-ID: <20060811190243.72997.qmail@web52113.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

I have finally gotten around to listing my patterns. I have everything except my Past Patterns collections up, which those will go up later this evening. 

My seller ID is insaneseamstress:
http://search.ebay.ca/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZinsaneseamstress

Hope that link works.

I have listed everything with a starting price below current market values - or at least the ones I could find. 

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131






------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 09:42:39 -0700
From: Althea Turner 
Subject: [h-cost] dream class
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <55B51CA5-CFFC-4E7F-85F2-11E0CCB44B06@alfalfapress.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

Hello all,

I am developing a couple classes for ecampus. I began to wonder what 
kind of textiles/ apparel classes people want, but can never find. I 
know what I like, but what would you like to see offered?

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have 
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into 
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the 
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century




------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 10:52:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Voncile W. Dudley" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dream class
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <20060812175252.23705.qmail@web33903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi Althea. I would love any class that is offered. We can never stop learning.
Lady Von
http://www.wildthangstreasures.com


Althea Turner wrote:
Hello all,

I am developing a couple classes for ecampus. I began to wonder what 
kind of textiles/ apparel classes people want, but can never find. I 
know what I like, but what would you like to see offered?

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have 
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into 
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the 
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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End of h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 570
*****************************************



Carol Mitchell listowner Costumemidwest www.yahoogroups.com/group/costumemidwest
 		
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Subject: [h-cost] Period for Heidi
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Hi all! Does anyone know the decade that the Heidi story is supposed to be  
set in? I'm especially interested in the orange dress here: 
_http://tinyurl.com/qfsak_ (http://tinyurl.com/qfsak)  
 
Is there a name for this type of little-girl dress? Is the petticoat  
underneath probably just a skirt, or would it be a whole dress? The reason I'm  
asking is that I'm making a doll and this is just the kind of dress I had  pictured 
for her. I will be making the rest of her family later and I suppose I  
should think about making them all match. :)
 
Thanks!
Tea Rose
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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:54:21 -0500
From: "Terri Hirling" <thirling@gmail.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Men' Flemish Garb
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Greetings to the list from a lurker.  My husband is in the process of making
mid-16th century Flemish garb and has the following questions he's asked me
to post to the list.

1) In Breughel "The Peasant's Wedding," (
http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/bruegel/wedding.jpg) the shirt tails of
the fellows in the red doublets are out and the point holes are empty
(difficult to see in the above link).  Still the laces can be seen hanging
below the shirt.   Did the shirt also have point holes to which the tights
were fastened?

2) Are sleeve seams under the arm?  That's the way they appear to me.  Or
down the back?

3) Was the usual peasant's jerkin cut short?  If longer, how much longer
(from the waist)?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Baroness Isabeau
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 13:10:44 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men' Flemish Garb
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Terri Hirling wrote:

> 1) In Breughel "The Peasant's Wedding," (
> http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/bruegel/wedding.jpg) the shirt 
> tails of
> the fellows in the red doublets are out and the point holes are empty
> (difficult to see in the above link).  Still the laces can be seen 
> hanging
> below the shirt.   Did the shirt also have point holes to which the 
> tights
> were fastened?


I don't believe so.  I think they've probably just got few/none of the 
laces done up-- rather like this fellow 
http://www.wga.hu/art/b/bruegel/pieter_e/painting/cockayne.jpg

>
> 2) Are sleeve seams under the arm?  That's the way they appear to me.  Or
> down the back?


Down the back, as far as I can tell.  This is the construction method 
I'm most familiar with in 16th-century clothing, and you can see a hint 
of it on the man in blue in the foreground, and on the bagpiper in tan.

>
> 3) Was the usual peasant's jerkin cut short?  If longer, how much longer
> (from the waist)?


Don't know.  The men in Breughel that I can think of have 
doublets/jackets but no jerkins.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Humor -- natural fibers
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Sorry for the cross-post, but this was just too funny!

http://www.foxtrot.com/

If you're looking at this on a day other than Sunday, August 13, 2006 --
you want to see the comic for that particular day.

susan/ jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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>Hi all! Does anyone know the decade that the Heidi story is supposed to be
>set in?

The girl in the wheelchair looks vaguely like mid-1880s.  In another one of 
those 39 images, it looks like there's an adult woman wearing a mid-1880s 
dress and hat.  In no other image is the year, or even the decade, or even 
the country, apparent.

>  I'm especially interested in the orange dress here:
>_http://tinyurl.com/qfsak_ (http://tinyurl.com/qfsak)
>
>Is there a name for this type of little-girl dress? Is the petticoat
>underneath probably just a skirt, or would it be a whole dress? The reason 
>I'm
>asking is that I'm making a doll and this is just the kind of dress I 
>had  pictured
>for her. I will be making the rest of her family later and I suppose I
>should think about making them all match. :)

The orange dress looks "old-timey" to me.  That is to say "Hollywood 
historical".  I've never seen any photos of any little girl wearing a dress 
with a high waist like your orange one.  I've only seen Napoleonic fashion 
plates of such things, and I don't believe that period for this film.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <6c845a440608131754s60ad135di80f471365964c34d@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men' Flemish Garb
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:53:42 +1200
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> 2) Are sleeve seams under the arm?  That's the way they appear to me.  Or
> down the back?

It's a bit hard to say for sure. If you look at the peasants by Hans Sebald
Beham of the similar timeframe, most almost certainly have seams going up
under the arm, then in some other woodcuts of a similar subject also by
Beham show a much earlier cut in the shoulders and seams down the back of
the arm.
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/P_d02_mm/full/61_41_3.jpg
seam up the back of the arm.
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/P_d02_mm/full/61_41_10.jpg
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/P_d02_mm/full/61_41_7.jpg
seams most likely underneath.
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/P_d02_mm/full/61_41_11.jpg
Figure second from right, the seam is under the arm.

These are German though show many similarities.

> Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just a lead on some further images:
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi04530g09a.jpg
It'sa  bit later but looks like the seam goes up the back.
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi00302c04a.jpg
Odd shoulder piecing, but seams likely under the arm or only slightly
rotated to the back (which seems to work well for German garb as well rather
than stright under the arm or right up the back of the arm.
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmc650778a.jpg
The paint possibly shows an indication of a back seam on both figures, but
that's up to interpretation.
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi04530g08a.jpg
Farmers? I think the figure on the left is female.
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi03974g09a.jpg
Especially compared to this figure of a farmer's(?) wife.
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi03974g08a.jpg
Woodcutters.


I'm sure I've seen another costume study by Bruegel, but I simply can't find
it.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: [h-cost] late 1300s "French"
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I've been trying to find pictures online of garments worn in "France" during
the late 1300s. early 1400s are acceptable. Anyone have a url for a good
site?
De


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period for Heidi
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 08:10:20 -0400
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The girls' dresses look very "Kate Greenway" to me.  I am not sure when this
style was vogue.  The Kate Greenway paperdoll book has a lot of
illustrations of those designs.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period for Heidi


>
> >Hi all! Does anyone know the decade that the Heidi story is supposed to
be
> >set in?
>
> The girl in the wheelchair looks vaguely like mid-1880s.  In another one
of
> those 39 images, it looks like there's an adult woman wearing a mid-1880s
> dress and hat.  In no other image is the year, or even the decade, or even
> the country, apparent.
>
> >  I'm especially interested in the orange dress here:
> >_http://tinyurl.com/qfsak_ (http://tinyurl.com/qfsak)
> >
> >Is there a name for this type of little-girl dress? Is the petticoat
> >underneath probably just a skirt, or would it be a whole dress? The
reason
> >I'm
> >asking is that I'm making a doll and this is just the kind of dress I
> >had  pictured
> >for her. I will be making the rest of her family later and I suppose I
> >should think about making them all match. :)
>
> The orange dress looks "old-timey" to me.  That is to say "Hollywood
> historical".  I've never seen any photos of any little girl wearing a
dress
> with a high waist like your orange one.  I've only seen Napoleonic fashion
> plates of such things, and I don't believe that period for this film.
>
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
>
>               ///\\\\\
>              ////-@@\\\
>             ((((   7 )))
>              )((  <> ))(
>               * )   ( *
>            /----\   /---\
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
>> Hi all! Does anyone know the decade that the Heidi story is supposed 
>> to be
>> set in?

Published in 1880 with the first edition in English published in 1884, 
the visual images we've come to associate with Heidi seem mostly to be 
based on the illustrations done a bit later by Alice Carsey in 1916 
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300014656445&ssPageName=MERCOSI_VI_ROSI_PR4_PCN_BIX_Stores&refitem=330013878471&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&refwidgettype=osi_widget#ebayphotohosting) 
and by Jessie Wilcox Smith in 1922.
http://www.bpib.com/illustrat/jwsmith.htm and 
http://www.art.com/asp/display-asp/_/ID--16112/Heidi.asp?ui=2B9819F00CA546B8B14DDD908FE040ED). 
There was also a very popular edition done in the 30s, and the Shirley 
Temple movie in 1937.

- Hope
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period for Heidi
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>The girls' dresses look very "Kate Greenway" to me.  I am not sure when this
>style was vogue.  The Kate Greenway paperdoll book has a lot of
>illustrations of those designs.

Kate Greenaway illustrations reflect what the Aesthetics were wearing in 
the late-1870s-early-1880s.  It's not mainstream.  The woman was a 
commercial illustrator, not a fashion historian.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period for Heidi
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:10:09 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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That dress seems to me to smack of Little House on the Prairie. In my 
own mind, Heidi wears dirndls--maybe my childhood Heidi book dressed 
Heidi that way?
--R.A. Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Aug 14, 2006, at 8:10 AM, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> The girls' dresses look very "Kate Greenway" to me.  I am not sure 
> when this
> style was vogue.  The Kate Greenway paperdoll book has a lot of
> illustrations of those designs.
>
> Kathleen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 10:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period for Heidi
>
>
>>
>>> Hi all! Does anyone know the decade that the Heidi story is supposed 
>>> to
> be
>>> set in?
>>
>> The girl in the wheelchair looks vaguely like mid-1880s.  In another 
>> one
> of
>> those 39 images, it looks like there's an adult woman wearing a 
>> mid-1880s
>> dress and hat.  In no other image is the year, or even the decade, or 
>> even
>> the country, apparent.
>>
>>>  I'm especially interested in the orange dress here:
>>> _http://tinyurl.com/qfsak_ (http://tinyurl.com/qfsak)
>>>
>>> Is there a name for this type of little-girl dress? Is the petticoat
>>> underneath probably just a skirt, or would it be a whole dress? The
> reason
>>> I'm
>>> asking is that I'm making a doll and this is just the kind of dress I
>>> had  pictured
>>> for her. I will be making the rest of her family later and I suppose 
>>> I
>>> should think about making them all match. :)
>>
>> The orange dress looks "old-timey" to me.  That is to say "Hollywood
>> historical".  I've never seen any photos of any little girl wearing a
> dress
>> with a high waist like your orange one.  I've only seen Napoleonic 
>> fashion
>> plates of such things, and I don't believe that period for this film.
>>
>>         CarolynKayta Barrows
>> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>>           www.FunStuft.com
>>
>>               ///\\\\\
>>              ////-@@\\\
>>             ((((   7 )))
>>              )((  <> ))(
>>               * )   ( *
>>            /----\   /---\
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Period for Heidi
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:10:48 -0500
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Status: RO

 Kate Greenaway illustrations of children were popular from the early
1880's-1900.

It has been some 40 years since I read "Heidi" at age 9 or 10 and I
don't recall either the original publication date or if Johanna
Spiyi(sp/)the author set it in the years she was writing it or in a more
distant era.

Check the copyright page of the book; it may give the original copyright
and/or publication date.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 10:10 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period for Heidi

That dress seems to me to smack of Little House on the Prairie. In my
own mind, Heidi wears dirndls--maybe my childhood Heidi book dressed
Heidi that way?
--R.A. Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Aug 14, 2006, at 8:10 AM, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> The girls' dresses look very "Kate Greenway" to me.  I am not sure 
> when this style was vogue.  The Kate Greenway paperdoll book has a lot

> of illustrations of those designs.
>
> Kathleen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 10:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period for Heidi
>
>
>>
>>> Hi all! Does anyone know the decade that the Heidi story is supposed

>>> to
> be
>>> set in?
>>
>> The girl in the wheelchair looks vaguely like mid-1880s.  In another 
>> one
> of
>> those 39 images, it looks like there's an adult woman wearing a 
>> mid-1880s dress and hat.  In no other image is the year, or even the 
>> decade, or even the country, apparent.
>>
>>>  I'm especially interested in the orange dress here:
>>> _http://tinyurl.com/qfsak_ (http://tinyurl.com/qfsak)
>>>
>>> Is there a name for this type of little-girl dress? Is the petticoat

>>> underneath probably just a skirt, or would it be a whole dress? The
> reason
>>> I'm
>>> asking is that I'm making a doll and this is just the kind of dress 
>>> I had  pictured for her. I will be making the rest of her family 
>>> later and I suppose I should think about making them all match. :)
>>
>> The orange dress looks "old-timey" to me.  That is to say "Hollywood 
>> historical".  I've never seen any photos of any little girl wearing a
> dress
>> with a high waist like your orange one.  I've only seen Napoleonic 
>> fashion plates of such things, and I don't believe that period for 
>> this film.
>>
>>         CarolynKayta Barrows
>> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>>           www.FunStuft.com
>>
>>               ///\\\\\
>>              ////-@@\\\
>>             ((((   7 )))
>>              )((  <> ))(
>>               * )   ( *
>>            /----\   /---\
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Quoting michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>:

>> 2) Are sleeve seams under the arm?  That's the way they appear to me.  Or
>> down the back?
>
> It's a bit hard to say for sure. If you look at the peasants by Hans Sebald
> Beham of the similar timeframe, most almost certainly have seams going up
> under the arm, then in some other woodcuts of a similar subject also by
> Beham show a much earlier cut in the shoulders and seams down the back of
> the arm.
> http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/P_d02_mm/full/61_41_3.jpg
> seam up the back of the arm.

Cool pictures.  I assume that these are from the same "work."  Do you
have a URL for that?  I tried backing through the image URL but it
didn't work, and I don't have a clue what keywords to search for!

Thanks,
susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Thanks, Michaela and Adele for your input.  I'll pass it on to him.

Isabeau
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Subject: [h-cost] In NY City August 25th - 27th?
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Anyone from the list going to be in NY City from the 25th through the 27th?  
I will be going to the various museums, shopping in the fabric district etc 
if anyone is interested!


Thanks,

Sg


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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:07:45 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period for Heidi
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>That dress seems to me to smack of Little House on the Prairie. In my own 
>mind, Heidi wears dirndls--maybe my childhood Heidi book dressed Heidi 
>that way?

You're right. Austrian, German, and Swiss peasants could wear dresses that 
look like dirndls.  Folkwear (folkwear.com) has a pattern (#123) so you can 
see what they look like.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period for Heidi
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In a message dated 8/14/2006 2:42:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kayta@frys.com writes:

That  dress seems to me to smack of Little House on the Prairie. In my own  
>mind, Heidi wears dirndls--maybe my childhood Heidi book dressed Heidi  
>that way?



Perhaps the designer feared making it look like Busch Gardens...y'know that  
European folk dress nether-world look. So  instead the designer opted for the 
general 19th century child  nether-world of "Little House". Of course both 
these nether-worlds derive from  actual clothing. Naturally, for me, the 
challenge is to make things  look REAL, without alienating or confusing young viewers 
expectations... too  much. But using startling choices that are correct is a 
great  thing.
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Pyotr's Men's Flemish Peasant diary: http://tinyurl.com/gqapm
 
Some pictures I scanned from my super-cool Brueghel book: http://tinyurl.com/gsajq
 
Hope this helps!
Tea Rose
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Thanks for the input, guys. I'm making a fantasy character, so Hollywood Historical is close enough.
 
But I thought little girls sometimes wore high-waisted gowns when they weren't in style for adults?
 
Tea Rose
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Period for Heidi 
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In a message dated 8/14/2006 5:19:18 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tearoses@aol.com writes:

But I  thought little girls sometimes wore high-waisted gowns when they 
weren't in  style for adults?



******************
 
It often appears that way because of child proportions. And if the skirt is  
attached at the natural waist [even in adults] it can look high. Also, 
children  tend to grow up more than out so a dress in January that had a skirt at the 
 child's waist might have the skirt a little higher than the waist by the 
next  November.
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From: "Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez" <ladycatalina@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: redrafting patterns to fit.
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Status: RO

If there is a way to alter something to fit without having the body around 
for fittings, I haven't found it.

If you take all the measurements directly from the body you can flatten 
these onto into a two-dimensional outline. I usually use the back of old 
wrapping paper to draw these out. Then you can overlay your pattern pieces 
and see where you need to add or subtract a little.

Caution: if you are making something to be worn over a corset, you need to 
take measurements while the corset is being worn. I'm sure that's pretty 
obvious to you already.



Catalina
nunca sin mi vino



>
>--- Becky Rautine <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I'd like to learn more on how to adapt a pattern
> > such as tailoring or
> > altering a pattern for every size. Suggestions of
> > what to do when something
> > sags or when something is too tight. Just being told
> > "make it smaller or
> > take a tuck here" may not fully explain what is
> > needed. Step by Step
> > alterations for costuming and period productions.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Becky Rautine
> >
> >
>
>


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In a message dated 8/14/2006 7:06:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ladycatalina@hotmail.com writes:

If there  is a way to alter something to fit without having the body around 
for  fittings, I haven't found it.



Really.
 
A pattern is just a pattern. Even an altered mockup that fits perfectly,  
when made of some different fabric will need fitting sometimes. Fitting is  just 
a fact. That's why I don't understand all this angst over the pattern  
fitting. The pattern is for cutting. The garment is for  fitting.
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<20060814123309.f7y02gh40gw8kogk@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men' Flemish Garb
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 11:22:13 +1200
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> > http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/P_d02_mm/full/61_41_3.jpg

> Cool pictures.  I assume that these are from the same "work."  Do you
> have a URL for that?  I tried backing through the image URL but it
> didn't work, and I don't have a clue what keywords to search for!

Unfortunately LACMA has super long URLs and those tinyurl things only last
for so long;) I was going to write a how to to get to all the information
pages but I figured if anyone was curious they would ask;)

http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/
Then click "search" then type in Beham (or Beham peasant should get those
specific woodcuts.)
Most of the images were from a series of the 12 months, but a few are from
other works.

Getting to all the bildindex Bruegel images is as easy but the site is in
German and can be confusing. Though http://www.artcyclopedia.com is really
good for finding the individual galleries for each Bruegel who painted.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men' Flemish Garb
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Quoting michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>:

>> > http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/P_d02_mm/full/61_41_3.jpg
>
>> Cool pictures.  I assume that these are from the same "work."  Do you
>> have a URL for that?  I tried backing through the image URL but it
>> didn't work, and I don't have a clue what keywords to search for!
>
> Unfortunately LACMA has super long URLs and those tinyurl things only last
> for so long;) I was going to write a how to to get to all the information
> pages but I figured if anyone was curious they would ask;)
>
> http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/
> Then click "search" then type in Beham (or Beham peasant should get those
> specific woodcuts.)

Thanks!  That's exactly what I wanted to know!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Some old linen
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I'm clearing things out, and came across an old white linen tablecloth and
four napkins. All have some sort of floral damask pattern (napkins are two
each of two patterns). Very worn, frayed at some edges, a number of spots
and stains. I have no use for them, and will send them to the Goodwill
unless they can be useful to someone on this list who does things with old
linen bits. Yours for the cost of a mailing envelope and postage. E-mail
privately, not to the list.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
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someone wrote:
> >The girls' dresses look very "Kate Greenway" to me.
>  I am not sure when this style was vogue.  The Kate
Greenway paperdoll book has a lot of
> >illustrations of those designs.

CarolynKayta Barrows replied:
> Kate Greenaway illustrations reflect what the
> Aesthetics were wearing in the
late-1870s-early-1880s.  It's not mainstream. The
woman was a 
> commercial illustrator, not a fashion historian.

But isn't a fashion historian a modern construct, and
by definition one who looks at the past and not the
present?  And isn't your critiscism/clarification of
Kate Greenway equally applicable to the people who
design stuff for Hot Topic and other "alternative"
fashion?  Basically, i'm confused as to why you would
point out the difference-- surely there aren't fashion
historians out there, slavishly trying to document
2005!  Of course, it is great to know that Kate
Greenway represents the tastes of a minor group :-)

(if I were more awake, I'd try to form this into some
better question/argument about what IS a good source,
if not a commercial illustrator who depicts the style
of HER group at HER time!)

Stephanie

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Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 00:53:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] formula for spiral lacing
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Hi,
  I've made up a formula for how to calculate the distance between the holes in spiral lacing:
  y = x/b + x/(2b2)
   
  y....distance between two holes 
  x....length of the opening, from the first hole to the last
  b....number of holes (without the 1/2 distance hole)
   
  It may sound a bit weird, but it's much quicker to use this formula then to wonder 2 hours about how to make the holes.
   
  I give an example using the second picture (the one on the left side) on this webpage:
  http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/lacing/lacing.html
  let's say the length of the lacing, from first hole to last, is 3,5cm (1+1+1+0,5). (There you can see, the distance between two holes is 1. But that's what you should get in the end). x = 3,5
  The number of holes without the half-distance hole is 4. b = 4.
  Now, count with these numbers, and you get y = 0,98... is approx. 1
  So, it's right! I hope this helps a bit when making this kind of lacing. At least it helped me:-))
   
  Zuzana
   
   

 		
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Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 09:20:45 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
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I believe that Kate Greenaway's typical pictures interpreted the
children's fashions of the Regency era (though she did portray other
styles in some of her book illustrations). According to the Wikipedia
article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kate_Greenaway , it was the
Aesthetic movement that imitated her rather than the other way round.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> Stephanie Smith <sismith42@yahoo.com> 15/08/2006 08:35 >>>

CarolynKayta Barrows replied:
> Kate Greenaway illustrations reflect what the
> Aesthetics were wearing in the
late-1870s-early-1880s.  It's not mainstream. The
woman was a 
> commercial illustrator, not a fashion historian.

But isn't a fashion historian a modern construct, and
by definition one who looks at the past and not the
present? 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
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>But isn't a fashion historian a modern construct, and
>by definition one who looks at the past and not the
>present?

You've got your definition about right, but no, "fashion historian" is not 
a modern construct.  There have been fashion historians since at least the 
mid-1800s, if we include the folks like Violet-le-Duc and Köhler who 
produced those Victorian costume books we now laugh at as inaccurate 
Victorian re-drawings.  Heck - Vecellio was something of a fashion 
historian in the late-1500s-early-1600s, in his own way, and Dover has 
reprinted the book of his on which I'm basing that opinion.  These are the 
giants on whose shoulders folks like Janet Arnold stood.

>And isn't your critiscism/clarification of
>Kate Greenway

BTW, I don't criticize Kate Greenaway's work for what it isn't, rather I 
love it for what it is.

>  equally applicable to the people who
>design stuff for Hot Topic and other "alternative"
>fashion?  Basically, i'm confused as to why you would
>point out the difference

We use her work to document something which is, from a 2006 perspective, 
historical, but she didn't set out to "do" historical when she was working, 
and neither do the designers from Hot Topic.  Both were/are designing to 
their contemporary markets.

And yes, some of her stuff shows people in historically based 
costumery.  That makes them historical examples of how a person of her 
period interpreted these other periods.  But that doesn't make her a 
costume historian, only an illustrator putting historical clothes on some 
of her models.  And she might well have gone to the books of costume 
historians of her day to get her examples.

(My personal favorite one-period-interprets-another is the early 1920s 
doing American colonial 1770s, complete with the dropped early-20s 
waist.  I actively collect examples of this.)

>-- surely there aren't fashion
>historians out there, slavishly trying to document
>2005!

Ah, but there are.  That's why folks like the V&A and Metropolitan Museum 
haven't stopped collecting currently fashionable garments.  They're storing 
these things now for the historians many years in the future who will thank 
them for having done so.  Consider, we would have more historical garments 
now if people in the past had specifically done this for us.

Most people don't realize that what they're wearing right now, like as 
they're reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 years from 
now.  And that some theatre costumer or historical researcher then would 
kill for a photo or actual example of it.  Scarey, huh?

>Of course, it is great to know that Kate
>Greenway represents the tastes of a minor group :-)

...those aforementioned Aesthetics, some of whom dressed very much like 
what her illustrations show.

>(if I were more awake, I'd try to form this into some
>better question/argument about what IS a good source,
>if not a commercial illustrator who depicts the style
>of HER group at HER time!)

If you mean is she a source for what her group was wearing, you're 
right,  just like Vogue Magazine will continue to be a good source for 
whatever style it is they document every month.  But Vogue doesn't set out 
to document history, it's just that back issues of it are used by 
historians who do.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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(My personal favorite one-period-interprets-another is the early 1920s 
doing American colonial 1770s, complete with the dropped early-20s 
waist.  I actively collect examples of this.)

I saw a perfectly hideous example of a "renaissance" dress, as interpreted
by a 1950's costumer,and don't forget Julie Christie's hair in "Dr.
Zhivago".
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian



>But isn't a fashion historian a modern construct, and
>by definition one who looks at the past and not the
>present?

You've got your definition about right, but no, "fashion historian" is not 
a modern construct.  There have been fashion historians since at least the 
mid-1800s, if we include the folks like Violet-le-Duc and Köhler who 
produced those Victorian costume books we now laugh at as inaccurate 
Victorian re-drawings.  Heck - Vecellio was something of a fashion 
historian in the late-1500s-early-1600s, in his own way, and Dover has 
reprinted the book of his on which I'm basing that opinion.  These are the 
giants on whose shoulders folks like Janet Arnold stood.

>And isn't your critiscism/clarification of
>Kate Greenway

BTW, I don't criticize Kate Greenaway's work for what it isn't, rather I 
love it for what it is.

>  equally applicable to the people who
>design stuff for Hot Topic and other "alternative"
>fashion?  Basically, i'm confused as to why you would
>point out the difference

We use her work to document something which is, from a 2006 perspective, 
historical, but she didn't set out to "do" historical when she was working, 
and neither do the designers from Hot Topic.  Both were/are designing to 
their contemporary markets.

And yes, some of her stuff shows people in historically based 
costumery.  That makes them historical examples of how a person of her 
period interpreted these other periods.  But that doesn't make her a 
costume historian, only an illustrator putting historical clothes on some 
of her models.  And she might well have gone to the books of costume 
historians of her day to get her examples.

(My personal favorite one-period-interprets-another is the early 1920s 
doing American colonial 1770s, complete with the dropped early-20s 
waist.  I actively collect examples of this.)

>-- surely there aren't fashion
>historians out there, slavishly trying to document
>2005!

Ah, but there are.  That's why folks like the V&A and Metropolitan Museum 
haven't stopped collecting currently fashionable garments.  They're storing 
these things now for the historians many years in the future who will thank 
them for having done so.  Consider, we would have more historical garments 
now if people in the past had specifically done this for us.

Most people don't realize that what they're wearing right now, like as 
they're reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 years from 
now.  And that some theatre costumer or historical researcher then would 
kill for a photo or actual example of it.  Scarey, huh?

>Of course, it is great to know that Kate
>Greenway represents the tastes of a minor group :-)

...those aforementioned Aesthetics, some of whom dressed very much like 
what her illustrations show.

>(if I were more awake, I'd try to form this into some
>better question/argument about what IS a good source,
>if not a commercial illustrator who depicts the style
>of HER group at HER time!)

If you mean is she a source for what her group was wearing, you're 
right,  just like Vogue Magazine will continue to be a good source for 
whatever style it is they document every month.  But Vogue doesn't set out 
to document history, it's just that back issues of it are used by 
historians who do.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
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In a message dated 8/15/2006 5:56:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kayta@frys.com writes:

Most  people don't realize that what they're wearing right now, like as 
they're  reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 years from  
now. 


********************
 
 
Sure we do! But I suppose people who don't care about clothes don't think  
about it in those terms. But this works in many other areas than fashion. I  
recently got some old "Laugh In" episodes on DVD. The minute I saw that old NBC  
peacock come up on the screen a million synapses fired in my brain that hadn't 
 fired since 1968! I remembered piling into the car with the folks to go see 
my  Dad's friend's new color TV. It was the 1st color TV on the block and 
there were  only like 3 shows in color then...that peacock was the 1st thing I 
ever saw in  color on a TV.
 
Look at music... The vinyl record is gone. The CD disc is well on the way  
out being replaced by iPod technology. When one's in the thick of it, it's hard  
to see sometimes.
 
Anyway, as far as clothes go, who knows what the future will latch onto or  
how they will interpret it. Going back to 1968....I have like 3 dresses of  
Mother's made of grey flannel, decorated with rhinestones. Grey flannel and  
rhinestones? Three of them? Was that a "thing" that fall? Will it be documented  
in fashion mags? How will the Kyoto accessorize it?
What would an 18th century person think of the way the Kyoto displayed  those 
18th century gowns? We love it [well, I do] but would our 18th century  time 
travelers approve?
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Quoting Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>:

>
> I'm clearing things out, and came across an old white linen tablecloth and
> four napkins.

What size is the tablecloth?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 11:36:12 -0700
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>When one's in the thick of it, it's hard
>to see sometimes.

Remembering to see such things is a mindset.  Now every new thing that 
comes out, in any field, I remember that it will get old some day.

>  Anyway, as far as clothes go, who knows what the future will latch onto or
>how they will interpret it. Going back to 1968....I have like 3 dresses of
>Mother's made of grey flannel, decorated with rhinestones. Grey flannel and
>rhinestones? Three of them? Was that a "thing" that fall? Will it be 
>documented
>in fashion mags? How will the Kyoto accessorize it?

I like how your brain works.

>What would an 18th century person think of the way the Kyoto displayed those
>18th century gowns? We love it [well, I do] but would our 18th century time
>travelers approve?

These days I'm writing alternate-universe science fiction.  My current 
story involves time-traveling clothes as a plot device.  When a re-enactor 
puts on his or her historical costume, they start to become their 
characters.  Parts of my plot hinge on this point.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              ///\\\\\
             ////-@@\\\
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              * )   ( *
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Status: RO

Quoting "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>:

> Quoting Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>:
>
>>
>> I'm clearing things out, and came across an old white linen
tablecloth and
>> four napkins.
>
> What size is the tablecloth?

*isgh*

braif fart -- as I hit send I noticed 2 things -- one it was going to
the list too (bad Susan), and 2 Robin's message came in *yesterday* so
it's probably all gone by now.

*sigh*

apologies, all.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Some old linen
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Susan Farmer wrote:

>*isgh*
>
>braif fart 
>  
>
Isn't that that ghastly movie with Mel Gibson?


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Quoting Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>:

> Susan Farmer wrote:
>
>> *isgh*
>>
>> braif fart
> Isn't that that ghastly movie with Mel Gibson?
>

ROTFLOLWTOOME!

boy, when I can't type, I *really* can't type can I?

*blush*

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Susan Farmer wrote:

> braif fart 

Adele wrote:

> Isn't that that ghastly movie with Mel Gibson?

Adele, I believe you owe me a new keyboard. This one has cocoa all over it.

Susan: Yes, the linen has been claimed.

Von: That's you. I'll contact you shortly, after I weigh the package.

Everyone: My regular e-mail is down today. If anyone has written me, I won't see it till the ISP guy fixes things. (I use a very small ISP. The owner is also the tech guy, and he answers the phone when I call, and knows me by name. So, I know he really is working on it.) If you need to reach me before I'm fully functional, please use this address -- rnweb (at) myrealbox.com ... but don't file that away, as I use it only for backup and don't check it unless I'm having a problem with my main box.

--Robin


Robin Netherton
This is my webmail box. Please reply to <robin@nightowl.net>.

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Thank you Adele!, I will forever hear/read that "Braif Fart" instead of 
"Brave Heart", changing my feelings from distaste to glee.  Champion!

Laurie


>Susan Farmer wrote:
>
>>*isgh*
>>
>>braif fart
>>
>Isn't that that ghastly movie with Mel Gibson?
>
>
>--
>Adele de Maisieres
>


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I'm moving to White Plains the 23rd. Email me if you want a museum buddy for the weekend.

 		
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De wrote:

> I've been trying to find pictures online of garments 
> worn in "France" during the late 1300s. early 1400s 
> are acceptable. Anyone have a url for a good site?

Your best artwork from this period for costume research purposes is in manuscripts, so you need the Bibliotheque Nationale de France. Here's a list of the medieval mss online so far:

http://gallica.bnf.fr/themes/ImaMA2.htm

Finding your way through the listings of mss is difficult unless you know what you're looking for; you'll have to browse and check the dates as you go. A lot of the ones I have bookmarked for myself are 15th c. and probably a bit too late for you, but I would suggest you look at the Grandes Chroniques de France (MS Fr. 73), which is around 1400.

The BNF hasn't webbed a lot of my favorites yet, but each time I look there's something new up there.

I'm more familiar with books than websites. If you want hardcopy references, e-mail me directly.

--Robin

Robin Netherton
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Zuzana wrote:

<<
  I've made up a formula for how to calculate the distance between the holes in spiral lacing:
  y = x/b + x/(2b2)
   
  y....distance between two holes 
  x....length of the opening, from the first hole to the last
  b....number of holes (without the 1/2 distance hole)
   
  It may sound a bit weird, but it's much quicker to use this formula then to wonder 2 hours about how to make the holes.
>>

Now I've wondered more than 2 hours why you would need to wonder 2 hours! No one else has posted to ask about this, so I guess I will: Where was your difficulty originally, that made you come up with this formula?

It sounds like the formula determines distance between holes based on the number of holes. But I would determine the spacing of the holes first, and the number of holes would be however many I needed at that spacing. I frankly wouldn't know how many holes I was going to use till I was done, and I don't think I've ever bothered to count them. It's the spacing I care about.

In other words: I've learned that to make a non-gapping opening down the front of my fitted dresses, I need to place the holes about 5/8 or 3/4 inch apart. (Not coincidentially, this is the width of my finger.) So, I start at the top. I go just below the area of the seam allowances (which are folded inside the lining and trimmed) and mark the first hole with a sharp chalk line or a sharp pencil line. Then I mark the rest of them, one at a time, one finger-width apart. I do the marking on the inside, with the dress turned inside-out. 

I do this down to the end of the opening and usually put one more hole past the point where the center seam begins. (I've already sewn the center front so that there's a slight overlap, but that's a nicety and not absolutely necessary.)

Then I hold the unmarked edge up next to the marked edge, just as they will lie in wear. I mark the first hole at the same point, straight across from its mate. Then I go down half a fingerwidth and mark another hole. (This is easy to eyeball.) I continue then at one finger-width apart, always watching the opposite side to make sure I'm staying at the midpoints between the first set of marks, on the opposite side.

At the bottom, I leave them uneven. The lacing cord eventually will come through whichever bottom hole sits lower, after being fastened on the inside of the garment on the opposite side, at the same level as the lower hole (meaning the lace will be fastened a little below the last hole on that side).

I do all the marking before I sew because sewing the eyelets can change the stretch/tension of the fabric and interfere with the evenness of the measurements.

Something I do before I start all of this: I baste a line down each edge, exactly 1/2 or 5/8 inch from the edge and parallel to it. When I mark my eyelets, my marking lines cross the basting line, forming a + . The eyelets go on those intersections. The basting helps keep the lining and the main fabric from getting off-kilter while I sew the eyelets. I remove the basting after the eyelets are sewn.

Once you're used to this method, you don't need pins or measuring tape, though I only abandoned those a little while ago, after many dresses. It's really simpler now.

The more I sew, the less I measure. It's quite likely that 14th-century seamstresses did not use measuring tapes marked in numerical increments. (If anyone has any evidence that they did, let me know. The closest I've heard of are tapes with a specific person's body measurements marked on it, for reference, but even that appears to be rather later, and something that tailors used when sewing independently of the wearer's body.)

--Robin





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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] late 1300s "French"
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 23:30:45 -0500
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Thank you. The neighboring SCA group is doing an event based loosely on the manuscript "Le Livre de Chasse" by Gaston Phoebus
I found a few posted pictures from the manuscript but they have only men in them (no surprise there) and though I might make some men's clothes for the day, I would like something feminine for the evening.
Presently I only have norse garb. :)
Thank you again.
De

-----Original Message-----
Your best artwork from this period for costume research purposes is in manuscripts, so you need the Bibliotheque Nationale de France. Here's a list of the medieval mss online so far:

http://gallica.bnf.fr/themes/ImaMA2.htm

Finding your way through the listings of mss is difficult unless you know what you're looking for; you'll have to browse and check the dates as you go. A lot of the ones I have bookmarked for myself are 15th c. and probably a bit too late for you, but I would suggest you look at the Grandes Chroniques de France (MS Fr. 73), which is around 1400.

The BNF hasn't webbed a lot of my favorites yet, but each time I look there's something new up there.

I'm more familiar with books than websites. If you want hardcopy references, e-mail me directly.

--Robin



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Great!  I look forward to your email.
  Lady Von

"R. Netherton" <rnweb@myrealbox.com> wrote:
  Susan Farmer wrote:

> braif fart 

Adele wrote:

> Isn't that that ghastly movie with Mel Gibson?

Adele, I believe you owe me a new keyboard. This one has cocoa all over it.

Susan: Yes, the linen has been claimed.

Von: That's you. I'll contact you shortly, after I weigh the package.

Everyone: My regular e-mail is down today. If anyone has written me, I won't see it till the ISP guy fixes things. (I use a very small ISP. The owner is also the tech guy, and he answers the phone when I call, and knows me by name. So, I know he really is working on it.) If you need to reach me before I'm fully functional, please use this address -- rnweb (at) myrealbox.com ... but don't file that away, as I use it only for backup and don't check it unless I'm having a problem with my main box.

--Robin


Robin Netherton
This is my webmail box. Please reply to .

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>Message: 3
>Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 08:50:31 EDT
>From: AlbertCat@aol.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
>
>
>In a message dated 8/15/2006 5:56:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
>kayta@frys.com writes:
>
>Most  people don't realize that what they're wearing right now, like as 
>they're  reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 years 
>from  
>now. 
  
  So I should carefully preserve this old ratty bathrobe for posterity??  Sorry, I couldn't resist!



 		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: illustrator vs fashion historian
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> >Most  people don't realize that what they're wearing right now, like as
> >they're  reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 years
> >from
> >now.
>
>   So I should carefully preserve this old ratty bathrobe for 
> posterity??  Sorry, I couldn't resist!

Oh yes, you really must.  Think how posterity will thank you. ROTFLMposteriorO

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:

> BTW, I don't criticize Kate Greenaway's work for what it isn't, rather I 
> love it for what it is.

**I must have missed the first part of this.  Who is Kate Greenaway?

(My personal favorite one-period-interprets-another is the early 1920s 
doing American colonial 1770s, complete with the dropped early-20s 
waist.  I actively collect examples of this.)

**Can you put this up in files or on your website?  I'd love to see this.  What a scream.

> Most  people don't realize that what they're wearing right now, like as 
> they're  reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 years from  now.  

**I do.  I think about what a reenactor from the future might wear to portray the turn of the century.  Maybe Levis and T-shirts for both men and women.  (Hmmm...how could those folks tell men from women back then.  And both men and women could have any length hair.  Weird ;-)

Julie

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From: Four Quarters <info_fourquarters@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: illustrator vs fashion historian
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
In-Reply-To: <4.3.1.2.20060816084752.02670008@mail.frys.com>
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Keep it, unless your "posterity" is hanging out the
backside, *snicker*

--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

> > >Most  people don't realize that what they're
> wearing right now, like as
> > >they're  reading this e-mail, will be considered
> historical 100 years
> > >from
> > >now.
> >
> >   So I should carefully preserve this old ratty
> bathrobe for 
> > posterity??  Sorry, I couldn't resist!
> 
> Oh yes, you really must.  Think how posterity will
> thank you. ROTFLMposteriorO
> 
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
> 
>               ///\\\\\
>              ////-@@\\\
>             ((((   7 )))
>              )((  <> ))(
>               * )   ( *
>            /----\   /---\
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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>>Most  people don't realize that what they're wearing right now, like as 
>>they're  reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 years from  now.  
> 
> 
> **I do.  I think about what a reenactor from the future might wear to portray the turn of the century.  Maybe Levis and T-shirts for both men and women.  (Hmmm...how could those folks tell men from women back then.  And both men and women could have any length hair.  Weird ;-)
> 

After looking at how some folks today build their 'historical' costumes, 
I expect to see 3pc suits made out of denim, worn with grunge flannel 
shirts, 80's gel shoes, 70's long hair, and the occasional body piercing.



Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] Lack of thread in extant garments
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Greetings.

I have received a request for help:

"It seems that in a lot of extant garments, the protein fibers
(wool and silk) have survived, while the plant fibers have not.  We can only
speculate that linen thread was used because there are stitching holes and
no thread (and it seems unlikely that they would have pulled the silk or
wool sewing thread out before tossing the rest in the trash).  I was hoping
you might be able to help me find some sort of documentation that I can use
as a reference that explains how this works?  It doesn't have to be overly
technical."

Right now I cannot get to my books and my brain is not working...so I'm 
turning to the best group of costuming/clothing/historians that I can think 
of. Can any of you help, please?

Thanks so much.

kate
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Think how much futurists will be horrified by all the polyester/nylon,
and other synthetic fabricated clothing we tossed out that will still be
"living" in landfills! Especially all the 70's polyester. Lived then.
Wore that. Rule one: Don't ever buy white 70's polyester! Ever!

How will they judge clothing made from finite resources(like oil, etc)
versus renewable resources?

How will they view the great use of fur and leather standing alongside
the great number of PETA and other animal protection agencies?

And will in a century or so, be able to custom order our clothing via a
"Star Trek" replicator? I know that one did food, but where did all the
clothes come from? There had to be a clothing replicator on board.

Cindy Abel

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:19:39 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Not so funny-- sounds like a "look"! It will probably show up on the 
runways next year....
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
gypsy scholar and amateur costumer
p.s. Actually, now that I get to musing about this, maybe those "yore" 
costumes aren't as far off as we think....aren't designers' models and 
chic young things walking around in very "now" outfits that mix 
nineteenth-century skirts, 'twenties jewelry, bustiers (fantasy 
out-of-time corsets), generic modern T shirts, traditional Indian 
sandals, flower-child crocheted fringed vests, and hats reminiscent of 
caps worn by working-class men 400 years ago?

On Aug 16, 2006, at 12:14 PM, Dawn wrote:

>
> After looking at how some folks today build their 'historical' 
> costumes, I expect to see 3pc suits made out of denim, worn with 
> grunge flannel shirts, 80's gel shoes, 70's long hair, and the 
> occasional body piercing.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] formula for spiral lacing
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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"Now I've wondered more than 2 hours why you would need to wonder 2 hours! No one else has posted to ask about this, so I guess I will: Where was your difficulty originally, that made you come up with this formula?
  It sounds like the formula determines distance between holes based on the number of holes. But I would determine the spacing of the holes first, and the number of holes would be however many I needed at that spacing. I frankly wouldn't know how many holes I was going to use till I was done, and I don't think I've ever bothered to count them. It's the spacing I care about."
   
  Well, I make a larger distance between the holes, at least 1inch, so if I started marking the holes from the top to the bottom, in the bottom there might be an either too small or too large distance from the center front seam. That wouldn't, I guess, look very good. So that's why I first mark the first and last hole, then measure the distance, say how many holes I want (to make approx. the distance between them I want) and calculate the exact distance between the holes. I admit, it really sounds complicated, but for me it's not and I'm sure that the last hole will be in the right place. 
  By the way, the making of that formula didn't take me more than 5 minutes, I just wondered a bit about how do I actually calculate it and put it into a formula. 
   
  But if you place holes even under the center front seam (that means the holes are in place where there is no opening any more, did I get that right?), then your method is surely easier. I actually never even thought about placing the holes there. I never had the chance to go to a museum where I could see a dress with spiral lacing clearly in detail. So that's why I didn't even think about it:-))
  Now when thinking about it, I don't only make medieval dresses, I make corsets and other garments of later periods where I use spiral lacing. And there it's sometimes important to have the first and last hole in the right place, so that's maybe why I'm making it all so difficult:-)
   
  "Something I do before I start all of this: I baste a line down each edge, exactly 1/2 or 5/8 inch from the edge and parallel to it. When I mark my eyelets, my marking lines cross the basting line, forming a + . The eyelets go on those intersections. The basting helps keep the lining and the main fabric from getting off-kilter while I sew the eyelets. I remove the basting after the eyelets are sewn."
   
  I do that, too.
   
  Zuzana

 			
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On Wed, 16 Aug 2006, Ailith Mackintosh wrote:

> "It seems that in a lot of extant garments, the protein fibers (wool
> and silk) have survived, while the plant fibers have not.  We can only
> speculate that linen thread was used because there are stitching holes
> and no thread (and it seems unlikely that they would have pulled the
> silk or wool sewing thread out before tossing the rest in the trash).  
> I was hoping you might be able to help me find some sort of
> documentation that I can use as a reference that explains how this
> works?  It doesn't have to be overly technical."

I've seen this mentioned in a number of places but don't have a cite
offhand. If I were to look for one, it would be in the Museum of London's
"Textiles and Dress" book. Another possibility is Else Ostergard's "Woven
Into the Earth," which mentions the paucity of linen survivals in
Greenland; whether it discusses thread, I'm not sure.

--Robin

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Abel, Cynthia wrote:

> And will in a century or so, be able to custom order our clothing via a
> "Star Trek" replicator? I know that one did food, but where did all the
> clothes come from? There had to be a clothing replicator on board.

Yup, there was. That detail comes up in the original series in several 
episodes. And even the replicator has fitting problems! In one episode 
Dr. McCoy is delayed aboard when the replicator gives him the wrong size 
gestapo boots. I don't recal explicit mentions of clothing replicators 
in subsequent series, though.

Of course, what I would like is a replicator that would give me some of 
that 1960s velour! I wish I could find some of that stuff.

- Hope
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] formula for spiral lacing
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On Wed, 16 Aug 2006, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

>   But if you place holes even under the center front seam (that means
> the holes are in place where there is no opening any more, did I get
> that right?), then your method is surely easier. I actually never even
> thought about placing the holes there. I never had the chance to go to
> a museum where I could see a dress with spiral lacing clearly in
> detail. So that's why I didn't even think about it:-))

To my knowledge, there are no existing dresses from my period (14th-15th
c.) complete enough to tell us about the front lacing. We have some
survivals of garment edges with lacing holes, but we don't know what kinds
of garments they came from. We have some garments with intact lacing holes
in other uses (e.g. a Herjolfsnes garment with a few holes at the
neckline). But no center front openings that show how the lacing holes
related to the end of the opening.

There are a number of useful sculptures, brasses, and paintings that show
spiral lacing down the center front, but when the dress is depicted as
laced-up, you can't see where the holes go in relation to the edge or the
bottom seam.

For practical purposes, though, on a full-length fitted dress, you can
start that opening a little higher or lower if you want to put it in a
particular relationship to the eyelets. Even if you've already sewn the
lower front part together, if you're hand-sewing, it's a trivial matter to
add or remove a few stitches after you've marked your eyelets or even
after you've sewn them. If you're machine-sewing, you might have to make
that adjustment by hand -- but of course the medieval seamstress wouldn't
have had that consideration, and the style developed using medieval
techniques as parameters, not modern ones.

One of the nice things about spiral lacing is that it enables the sides to
overlap, as the lace does not pass between the two garment edges; it
"wraps" around them, turning them into a solid column. If that column
includes the outer layer, the lining, and the seam allowances for both
turned to the inside, and all that on each of two edges that overlap into
a single stack, that makes a narrow line of eight layers of fabric wrapped
around with a lace -- almost as strong as boning, but flexible, and it
resists gapping.

To encourage that overlap, I sew the center front seam with the overlap
already in place, so that there isn't a pucker at the bottom of the laced
area. And if the overlap is built into the bottom of the opening, it's
very easy to continue the holes slightly past the point at which the
opening is sewn shut. The point at which it changes from sewn-closed to
laced-closed is invisible.

>   Now when thinking about it, I don't only make medieval dresses, I
> make corsets and other garments of later periods where I use spiral
> lacing. And there it's sometimes important to have the first and last
> hole in the right place, so that's maybe why I'm making it all so
> difficult:-)

On a corset, bodice, or anything else where the lacing has to end at the
end of the garment or at a waist seam, you definitely need to have the
last hole at a certain place. I'd daresay, though, that for earlier
garments, the holes may end up being a bit uneven in distance to
accomplish that, reflecting a laxity in measuring. By the 18th or 19th
century, I'd not be surprised to see them more precisely measured. And for
the decorative sorts of lacings -- say, on a German or Italian Renaissance
bodice, particularly the ones where a carefully arranged open front lacing
is a design element -- I'd also expect the measurements to be more
precise.

--Robin

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Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:20:15 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lack of thread in extant garments
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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This may or may not be related but in research that someone recently
put up on the web after her trip to England and allowed to handle
primary source material she found that if the garments had precious
metal in any form on them that the metal was removed.

Hope that helps.

It may not have been linen but a precious metal thread and it may
have been removed. Not sure how they could test for it though.

Chiara


On Wed, August 16, 2006 12:15 pm, Ailith Mackintosh said:
> Greetings.
>
> I have received a request for help:
>
> "It seems that in a lot of extant garments, the protein fibers
> (wool and silk) have survived, while the plant fibers have not.  We
> can only
> speculate that linen thread was used because there are stitching
> holes and
> no thread (and it seems unlikely that they would have pulled the
> silk or
> wool sewing thread out before tossing the rest in the trash).  I was
> hoping
> you might be able to help me find some sort of documentation that I
> can use
> as a reference that explains how this works?  It doesn't have to be
> overly
> technical."
>
> Right now I cannot get to my books and my brain is not working...so
> I'm
> turning to the best group of costuming/clothing/historians that I
> can think
> of. Can any of you help, please?
>
> Thanks so much.
>
> kate
> Outgoing email scanned by Norton AntiVirus
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>
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I can give you an extant source where the linen thread DID survive - The Bocksten bog man. I have an in situ photograph of it, which is the only state it survived in. It disintegrated the moment they moved the textile.
Wool sewing thread, if used in wool garments would likely full into place like The extant Irish Moy gown shows. I don't recall hearing of wool being sewn with silk though - I could likely be wrong, though. I would suspect that silk would cut the wool with the movement of the wearer.

Kathy
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
 
Its never too late to be who you might have been.
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Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131

> "It seems that in a lot of extant garments, the protein fibers (wool
> and silk) have survived, while the plant fibers have not.  We can only
> speculate that linen thread was used because there are stitching holes
> and no thread (and it seems unlikely that they would have pulled the
> silk or wool sewing thread out before tossing the rest in the trash).  
> I was hoping you might be able to help me find some sort of
> documentation that I can use as a reference that explains how this
> works?  It doesn't have to be overly technical."

I've seen this mentioned in a number of places but don't have a cite
offhand. If I were to look for one, it would be in the Museum of London's
"Textiles and Dress" book. Another possibility is Else Ostergard's "Woven
Into the Earth," which mentions the paucity of linen survivals in
Greenland; whether it discusses thread, I'm not sure.





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Subject: finding recent historical fabric (was Re: [h-cost] Re:
	illustrator vs fashion historian
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>Of course, what I would like is a replicator that would give me some of 
>that 1960s velour! I wish I could find some of that stuff.

It's still around.  Look in thrift stores that have fabric.  These won't be 
the clean places like Goodwill, but I'm sure, if you do thrift stores at 
all, you know of a funky-junky thrift store or two.  Yard sales, garage 
sales, and estate sales are also possible sources.  Discount fabric stores 
are another possible sources.  Some of them have the most amazing 
out-of-date stuff.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: illustrator vs fashion historian
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 15:56:41 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Aug 16, 2006, at 11:31 AM, Kahlara wrote:

>>
>> Most  people don't realize that what they're wearing right now,  
>> like as
>> they're  reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 years
>> from
>> now.
>
>   So I should carefully preserve this old ratty bathrobe for  
> posterity??  Sorry, I couldn't resist!

Absolutely. WITH the bunny slippers.

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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I always thought this site said it all.

http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/lacing/lacing.html


>   Well, I make a larger distance between the holes, at least 1inch, so if 
>I started marking the holes from the top to the bottom, in the bottom there 
>might be an either too small or too large distance from the center front 
>seam. That wouldn't, I guess, look very good. So that's why I first mark 
>the first and last hole, then measure the distance, say how many holes I 
>want (to make approx. the distance between them I want) and calculate the 
>exact distance between the holes. I admit, it really sounds complicated, 
>but for me it's not and I'm sure that the last hole will be in the right 
>place.
>   By the way, the making of that formula didn't take me more than 5 
>minutes, I just wondered a bit about how do I actually calculate it and put 
>it into a formula.
>
>   But if you place holes even under the center front seam (that means the 
>holes are in place where there is no opening any more, did I get that 
>right?), then your method is surely easier. I actually never even thought 
>about placing the holes there. I never had the chance to go to a museum 
>where I could see a dress with spiral lacing clearly in detail. So that's 
>why I didn't even think about it:-))
>   Now when thinking about it, I don't only make medieval dresses, I make 
>corsets and other garments of later periods where I use spiral lacing. And 
>there it's sometimes important to have the first and last hole in the right 
>place, so that's maybe why I'm making it all so difficult:-)
>
>   "Something I do before I start all of this: I baste a line down each 
>edge, exactly 1/2 or 5/8 inch from the edge and parallel to it. When I mark 
>my eyelets, my marking lines cross the basting line, forming a + . The 
>eyelets go on those intersections. The basting helps keep the lining and 
>the main fabric from getting off-kilter while I sew the eyelets. I remove 
>the basting after the eyelets are sewn."
>
>   I do that, too.
>
>   Zuzana
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Do you Yahoo!?
>  Everyone is raving about the  all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Robin FW: Your French costume
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Your email address returned my reply.
De

-----Original Message-----
The event is in Standing Stones/Columbia. I'm with Amlesmore but we are doing the inn and assisting as SS had a major portion of their active membership graduate/move and many are in their Highness' entourage.
I am not interested in this period as I am overweight and do like the thought of form fitting garments on my form. :P But majority of both Shires seem to gravitate to the period and so to help with the ambiance of the events and future events, I need to make some late 1300s/early 1400s garments.
With the men's I just need to find time to get someone to help fit the hosen. I will be using linen blends as wool is hard to come by around here and when it comes by I don't have the money for it (sigh).
Thank you for the help. I have looked at the site you gave me earlier and have a rough idea of what I will be making. "The Hunt" was written in 1390s but the illustrations were created in the 1400s. So yes I guess since the event is loosely based that I can swing over to the 1400s and look at the houppelandes. :)

De

PS. I have found myself looking into Burgundian and Samotigitian fashions of the mid to late 1400s.





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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
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Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:

>
> After looking at how some folks today build their 'historical' 
> costumes, I expect to see 3pc suits made out of denim,

My husband still has a 3-piece suit made out of denim ...  My son wears
it now ..... (but not with a grunge flannel shirt ...)

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 23:14:33 +0100 (BST)
From: Lena <lenastrid@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lack of thread in extant garments
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--- Ailith Mackintosh <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:
> Greetings.
> 
> I have received a request for help:
> 
> "It seems that in a lot of extant garments, the
> protein fibers
> (wool and silk) have survived, while the plant
> fibers have not.  We can only
> speculate that linen thread was used because there
> are stitching holes and
> no thread (and it seems unlikely that they would
> have pulled the silk or
> wool sewing thread out before tossing the rest in
> the trash).  I was hoping
> you might be able to help me find some sort of
> documentation that I can use
> as a reference that explains how this works?  It
> doesn't have to be overly
> technical."
> 
> Right now I cannot get to my books and my brain is
> not working...so I'm 
> turning to the best group of
> costuming/clothing/historians that I can think 
> of. Can any of you help, please?

Quoting "Museum of London: Textiles and clothing",
page 2:
"...surviving textiles are biased by the types of
deposit in which they are preserved. They occur most
frequently where anaerobic conditions prevail, along
the Thames waterfront, for example, and occasionally
in cesspits. These acid conditions have the effect of
causing cellulose fibres to break down very rapidly,
particularly through fungal attack, and linen is,
therefore, poorly represented."

Hope this helps,
Lena



		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Aug 16 18:41:37 2006
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: formula for spiral lacing
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Zuzana wrote:

> Well, I make a larger distance between the holes, at least 1inch, so if I
> started marking the holes from the top to the bottom, in the bottom there
> might be an either too small or too large distance from the center front seam.
> That wouldn't, I guess, look very good. So that's why I first mark the first
> and last hole, then measure the distance, say how many holes I want (to make
> approx. the distance between them I want) and calculate the exact distance
> between the holes. I admit, it really sounds complicated, but for me it's not
> and I'm sure that the last hole will be in the right place.

I am not that precise. I mark them about an inch apart, and if I am too far
from the seam at the bottom I smoosh them a little closer. IMHO, nobody is
really checking how even the lacing holes are there. However, I am not a
precise sewer. I have a friend whose every seam is absolutely perfect and
I'm sure she would love your formula!

Zuzana also wrote: 

  "Something I do before I start all of this: I baste a line down each edge,
exactly 1/2 or 5/8 inch from the edge and parallel to it. When I mark my
eyelets, my marking lines cross the basting line, forming a + . The eyelets
go on those intersections. The basting helps keep the lining and the main
fabric from getting off-kilter while I sew the eyelets. I remove the basting
after the eyelets are sewn."

ACK! Way too much work. I would never DREAM of basting a line down each
edge. I mark the holes with dots, in chalk. But then, I do the eyelets by
machine and sort of wing them as very short button holes (I don't have an
eyelet attachment). I have only so much time to sew, and I take shortcuts
when I can. But I admire precision in others!
 

Gail Finke

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lack of thread in extant garments
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On Wed, 16 Aug 2006, Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio wrote:

> It may not have been linen but a precious metal thread and it may have
> been removed. Not sure how they could test for it though.

I have never heard of any instances in which precious metal thread is used
for structural seams. Even in embroidery, precious metal thread is
typically couched (laid on top of the fabric and held down with stitching
of a non-metal thread), as the act of repeatedly passing the metal thread
through fabric tends to strip the metal wrapping off the thread core.

My knowledge is limited, and strictly medieval in any case. I'd be curious
whether anyone knows of examples of metal thread used for seams.

--Robin

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Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 12:22:47 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
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>**I must have missed the first part of this.  Who is Kate Greenaway?

Kate Greenaway (Kate Greenaway medal for children's book illustration) was 
a children's book illustrator active in the 1880s, and a contemporary of 
Randolph Caldecot (Caldecot medal for children's picture books) and Walter 
Crane.  Googling on her name finds:

http://www.ortakales.com/illustrators/Greenaway.html bio
http://www.geocities.com/loveillust/kg/kgreenaway.html images


I have reprints of her Pied Piper of Hamlyn, Language of Flowers, and 
probably several others I can't recall at the moment.  All her 
illustrations show reproducible costumes, which is lots of fun.

>(My personal favorite one-period-interprets-another is the early 1920s
>doing American colonial 1770s, complete with the dropped early-20s
>waist.  I actively collect examples of this.)
>
>**Can you put this up in files or on your website?  I'd love to see 
>this.  What a scream.

I'll see what I can do.  I think they are all in storage at the moment.

> > Most  people don't realize that what they're wearing right now, like as
> > they're  reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 years 
> from  now.
>
>**I do.  I think about what a reenactor from the future might wear to 
>portray the turn of the century.  Maybe Levis and T-shirts for both men 
>and women.  (Hmmm...how could those folks tell men from women back 
>then.  And both men and women could have any length hair.  Weird ;-)

Think about it:  Men's hairstyles and women's hairstyles are somewhat 
different for the same length of hair, and the shoes will be different too, 
not to mention a slight possible difference in the cut of the t-shirt.  A 
bad costume book, 100 years from now, will document this whole look in one 
image, and a good one will catch the subtle differences.  Hollywood will 
still probably do it wrong...

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] thread offer
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I received an email this morning from someone who has some things to 
give away for the price of postage.


"I have just finished sorting and
organizing all her quilting fabric, tools, books and thread. ... Do you 
have any suggestions as to giving away the quilting thread? In addition 
there is a collection of antique thread from my great grandmother. It is 
from the early 1900's. She was a commercial seamstress and made the 
clothes for most of the family back then. Is antique thread ever used 
for decorative stitching or used in restoration? I would be happy to 
pass it along to someone or an organization that could use it. "


Email me if you are interested. First come, first served.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: favorite one-period-interprets-another
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 20:34:57 -0700
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Status: RO

Oh, fun.  I have a "Centennial Dress" from the 1870's that's a really interesting take on quasi-Colonial.  I'm still trying to figure out what they were doing with the flat-fronted skirt that has some really odd seams to make quasi-panniers, and the bias-wrapped elbow-triangles are a hoot.

LuAnn in WA
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Cin<mailto:cinbarnes@gmail.com> 
  To: h-cost<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 12:32 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] re: favorite one-period-interprets-another


  >From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com<mailto:jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>>
  >(My personal favorite one-period-interprets-another is the early 1920s
  >doing American colonial 1770s, complete with the dropped early-20s
  >waist.  I actively collect examples of this.)

  oooh fun topic!

  I'd like to offer one of our California contenders.  In one of the
  California Missions, there is a fashionable Madonna. Now these
  missions were established by Spanish Catholic missionaries, over the
  approximate period 1776-1820s for the most part. One of the delightful
  Madonnas wears her traditional blue robe... with panniers.  <grin>
  I believe it's at Mission La Purissima.
  --cin
  Cynthia Barnes
  CinBarnes@gmail.com<mailto:CinBarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lack of thread in extant garments
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Status: RO

Button holes, that is what I was referring to more than seams. I totally 
misread that post then. I thought she was talking about the button holes. :(

Yes, you are correct, they were couched for decoration. I also have never 
seen them used going through fabric or leather other than to anchor for lace 
cuffs an then it was the wire form not the thread form. My personal 
experience is only with gloves. If it was precious metal, it was couched or 
added in some similar fashion.

Where I am extracting my thoughts from is this:
http://medievalbeads.com/docs/items/12th-germie-parchement.html I chatted 
with her about the missing bits of thread and beads. She had some 
interesting comments based on the documentation that she read in books as 
well as with the textile experts in the area.

I am certain that she could speak to this so much better than I about the 
removal of precious metal threads that were used for decoration.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lack of thread in extant garments


>
> On Wed, 16 Aug 2006, Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio wrote:
>
>> It may not have been linen but a precious metal thread and it may have
>> been removed. Not sure how they could test for it though.
>
> I have never heard of any instances in which precious metal thread is used
> for structural seams. Even in embroidery, precious metal thread is
> typically couched (laid on top of the fabric and held down with stitching
> of a non-metal thread), as the act of repeatedly passing the metal thread
> through fabric tends to strip the metal wrapping off the thread core.
>
> My knowledge is limited, and strictly medieval in any case. I'd be curious
> whether anyone knows of examples of metal thread used for seams.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
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One of the best examples of illustrator/historian I know was during a series on 
fashion that I have on video (remember video, those things with all the good 
entertainment that will not fit into a DVD player?).

Karl Lagerfeld sat with a sketchbook, describing fashion changes and trends and 
explaining them with terrific line drawings.

If I can work out how to jam a video into the DVD machine and make it work, I 
will have another look and post the name of the series as, like all normal 
people, I did not label the tapes,

-C.


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On Wed, 16 Aug 2006, Chiara Francesca wrote:

> Button holes, that is what I was referring to more than seams. I
> totally misread that post then. I thought she was talking about the
> button holes. :(

Yes, that would make a difference!

> I am certain that she could speak to this so much better than I about the 
> removal of precious metal threads that were used for decoration.

>From what I've read, the usual way of "removing" metal threads was
actually to remove everything *but* the metal, by burning the item and
retrieving the metal from the ashes. Countless embroidered garments,
accessories, and furnishings have been burnt over the centuries by people
seeking to reclaim the gold from the threads. (This is mentioned in
passing in an article in the upcoming Medieval Clothing & Textiles 3,
about vestments embroidered in Opus Anglicanum style, which involved much
laid gold.)

--Robin

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Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:03:56 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: favorite one-period-interprets-another
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>Oh, fun.  I have a "Centennial Dress" from the 1870's that's a really 
>interesting take on quasi-Colonial.  I'm still trying to figure out what 
>they were doing with the flat-fronted skirt that has some really odd seams 
>to make quasi-panniers, and the bias-wrapped elbow-triangles are a hoot.

Look in the 1870s, or later, for "Dolly Varden" costumes.  I have an 
illustrated history of American theatre, from the 1860s to the 1960s (with 
some very interesting photos of people who got famous in the movies or TV 
later), and Dolly Varden was a play that kept getting revived.  It seems 
you can always tell the decade the photo is from.

Victorian Fancy Dress costumes are just as hoot-like.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Thread-Topic: surviving linen  [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
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From: "Wilson, Annette" <Annette.Wilson@deh.gov.au>
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Thanks Lena for providing the quote.

Quoting "Museum of London: Textiles and clothing", page 2:
"...surviving textiles are biased by the types of deposit in which they
are preserved. They occur most frequently where anaerobic conditions
prevail, along the Thames waterfront, for example, and occasionally in
cesspits. These acid conditions have the effect of causing cellulose
fibres to break down very rapidly, particularly through fungal attack,
and linen is, therefore, poorly represented."

I think there is another reason why very little linen survives in any
medieval context, and that is paper.
Paper was made of rags. These days good quality rag paper is mostly
cotton fibres, but in period linen was more common at least in northern
Europe. People didn't need to throw away even the most worn pieces of
linen, or offcuts, because it could  all be recycled into paper
(especially since it was usually not dyed). Soft worn linen was also
sought for the making of those oft-quoted 30-layer jacks. On a side
note, I have prepared a sample for one of these jacks, using a
10-year-old linen teatowel. The 32 layers, when quilted together, become
a flexible, but impenetrable material which would provide good arrow
portection. 32 layers of new linen is almost rigid, and very hard to
sew. It would stop arrows, but it also stop you making a wearable
garment :-)

So the absence of thread in a seam may be due to linen thread having
distintegrated, but the scarcity of linen in any deposits is, I think,
because it was rarely dumped in the first place. Small or damaged pieces
go to the paper mills, larger pieces can be used again, including in
"armour"

Annette Wilson

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At 01:00 PM 8/16/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:30:37 -0400
>From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: illustrator vs fashion historian
>
>Abel, Cynthia wrote:
>
> > And will in a century or so, be able to custom order our clothing via a
> > "Star Trek" replicator? I know that one did food, but where did all the
> > clothes come from? There had to be a clothing replicator on board.
>
>Yup, there was. That detail comes up in the original series in several
>episodes. And even the replicator has fitting problems! In one episode
>Dr. McCoy is delayed aboard when the replicator gives him the wrong size
>gestapo boots. I don't recal explicit mentions of clothing replicators
>in subsequent series, though.
>
>Of course, what I would like is a replicator that would give me some of
>that 1960s velour! I wish I could find some of that stuff.
>
>- Hope

In Deep Space Nine, an important secondary character was the 
Cardassian, Garak, who was a "simple tailor".  Several episodes 
showed people being scanned for clothing, and there were some 
interesting things on display in his shop.

Sandy


"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: illustrator vs fashion historian
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>Message: 6
>Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 15:56:41 -0400
>From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: illustrator vs fashion historian
>
>
>On Aug 16, 2006, at 11:31 AM, Kahlara wrote:
>
>>>
>>> Most  people don't realize that what they're wearing right now,  
>>> like as
>>> they're  reading this e-mail, will be considered historical 100 
>years
>>> from
>>> now.
>>
>>   So I should carefully preserve this old ratty bathrobe for  
>> posterity??  Sorry, I couldn't resist!
>
>Absolutely. WITH the bunny slippers.
>
>Lauren M. Walker
>lauren.walker@comcast.net


  Ack! I didn't realize I had a hidden web cam aimed at my feet!!  LOL

 		
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From: "Eva Andersson" <eva.andersson@comhem.se>
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Subject: [h-cost] SV: Thread in extant medieval garments
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The thread in the Bocksten Bog man's costume did NOT survive. It was
therefore most likely either linen or hemp, both grown in Scandinavia at
the time. All the thread was gone when they found it in 1936. This can
be seen from the report/book from this time "Bockstensmannen och hans
dräkt" edited by Margareta Nockert. It is now 70 years since the
Bocksten man was found and for the last two years a research project has
been running. I was the person doing the dress historical research and
has thus had the opportunity to handle the garment as well as seeing all
the original documentation photos. 

As for wool thread fulling and becoming almost invisible; that is not
always the case. Some of the Herjolfsnes finds have quite visible
thread. For sewing worsted yarn was often used, it is stronger and
doesn't full.
Oh, and I sew a lot of wool with silk thread, that is actually the way
it was done in more recent times before the invention of polyester
thread. It does not cut the wool fibres.

/Eva I Andersson

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 577
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <20060816194527.11419.qmail@web52107.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

>I can give you an extant source where the linen thread DID survive -
The Bocksten bog 
>man. I have an in situ photograph of it, which is the only state it
survived in. 
>It disintegrated the moment they moved the textile. Wool sewing thread,
if used in wool 
>garments would likely full into place like The extant Irish Moy gown
shows. I don't 
>recall hearing of wool being sewn with silk though - I could likely be
wrong, though. I 
>would suspect that silk would cut the wool with the movement of the
wearer.

Kathy
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a
rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or
barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
 
Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.
http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131




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Subject: [h-cost] re: favorite one-period-interprets-another
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>From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
>(My personal favorite one-period-interprets-another is the early 1920s
>doing American colonial 1770s, complete with the dropped early-20s
>waist.  I actively collect examples of this.)

oooh fun topic!

I'd like to offer one of our California contenders.  In one of the
California Missions, there is a fashionable Madonna. Now these
missions were established by Spanish Catholic missionaries, over the
approximate period 1776-1820s for the most part. One of the delightful
Madonnas wears her traditional blue robe... with panniers.  <grin>
I believe it's at Mission La Purissima.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] In NY City August 25th - 27th?
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I live right outside of NY city, but i will be in london when your in NY, too bad, I would have looved to join mesuem trips and such.
jordana
----- Original Message -----
From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
Date: Monday, August 14, 2006 2:03 pm
Subject: [h-cost] In NY City August 25th - 27th?

> Anyone from the list going to be in NY City from the 25th through 
> the 27th?  
> I will be going to the various museums, shopping in the fabric 
> district etc 
> if anyone is interested!
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 04:35:57 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: metal thread (was Lack of thread in extant garments)
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Robin wrote:
Even in embroidery, precious metal thread is
typically couched (laid on top of the fabric and held down with stitching
of a non-metal thread), as the act of repeatedly passing the metal thread
through fabric tends to strip the metal wrapping off the thread core.

	This is partially correct, and partially not, Robin. :-) Wire
threads such as plate, jaceron, facconnee, purl, torsade, are indeed
couched, as to pass these through the cloth would damage the ground, and in
some case destroy the integrity of the manufacture of the gold wire thread.
There is no fibre core in any of these, and hence no foil to strip away.

	Passing thread, however, the most fragile of all the gold threads,
and the most difficult to work, is as you say, a gold foil (lower grades
have a copper core, laid with silver, laid with gold, while better grades
have a silver core with gold) over a cotton (modern), linen or silk core
(historic). These threads are called passing because they pass through the
cloth, and if you have failed to pass the thread through between warp and
weft, at just the right angle, working slowly, you will indeed strip away
that delicate membrane of foil. This is long experience talking, as well as
research. :-) 

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: favorite one-period-interprets-another
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In a message dated 8/16/2006 11:34:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
luann_mason@msn.com writes:

I have a  "Centennial Dress" from the 1870's that's a really interesting take 
on  quasi-Colonial.  I'm still trying to figure out what they were doing with 
 the flat-fronted skirt that has some really odd seams to make 
quasi-panniers,  and the bias-wrapped elbow-triangles are a  hoot.




What really drives costume historians crazy is the Centennial dresses that  
were re-made from real 18th century dresses.  So you have that wonderful  
fabric remade, as one historian put it, as "Little Bo Peep."
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
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In a message dated 8/16/2006 11:10:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kayta@frys.com writes:

not to  mention a slight possible difference in the cut of the t-shirt.  


And, at least around here, the fit of the jeans.  Guys wear them  
ridiculously over-sized and baggy, and gals wear them ridiculously tight!   No way to 
confuse the two.
 
Ann Wass
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
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At 12:11 17/08/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 8/16/2006 11:10:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>kayta@frys.com writes:
>
>not to  mention a slight possible difference in the cut of the t-shirt.
>
>
>And, at least around here, the fit of the jeans.  Guys wear them
>ridiculously over-sized and baggy,

And hanging half way down the *rse in London - I swear some of them 
will fall down as there is no waist and hips to stop them.

>and gals wear them ridiculously tight!

but showing builder's b*ms and thongs - lovely

>No way to
>confuse the two.
>
Suzi 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: metal thread (was Lack of thread in extant garments)
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On Thu, 17 Aug 2006, Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:

> 	Passing thread, however, the most fragile of all the gold
> threads, and the most difficult to work, is as you say, a gold foil
> (lower grades have a copper core, laid with silver, laid with gold,
> while better grades have a silver core with gold) over a cotton
> (modern), linen or silk core (historic). These threads are called
> passing because they pass through the cloth, and if you have failed to
> pass the thread through between warp and weft, at just the right
> angle, working slowly, you will indeed strip away that delicate
> membrane of foil. This is long experience talking, as well as
> research. :-)

Odd. The article I was just editing on Opus Anglicanum embroidery, written
by someone who has handled a lot of surviving pieces, specifies that the
thread was metal wrapped around a silk core, and always couched (which is
consistent with what I had read earlier in other places). So that would be
the opposite of what you describe above. However, as I mentioned earlier,
my familiarity is strictly with medieval examples. Perhaps wrapped threads
that pass through the cloth were later than that? Or was this a medieval
practice in some particular types of styles/uses I'm not familiar with?
Embroidery is not my specialty area, to I tend to know about certain
styles only because I've worked with articles or projects about them, and
my knowledge is completely lacking in others.

(No argument that metal threads that are not wrapped would not be pulled
through the cloth because of potential damage to the cloth.)

--Robin


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References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10608170619060.4607-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: metal thread (was Lack of thread in extant garments)
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 14:34:18 +0200
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Hi,
I wondered about this also. I have used gold passing thread, but it is way 
two thick to embroider stitches with. I cauch it on the outlines i make, to 
embellish them more.
Using couching silk to the gold.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: metal thread (was Lack of thread in extant 
garments)


>
> On Thu, 17 Aug 2006, Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:
>
>> Passing thread, however, the most fragile of all the gold
>> threads, and the most difficult to work, is as you say, a gold foil
>> (lower grades have a copper core, laid with silver, laid with gold,
>> while better grades have a silver core with gold) over a cotton
>> (modern), linen or silk core (historic). These threads are called
>> passing because they pass through the cloth, and if you have failed to
>> pass the thread through between warp and weft, at just the right
>> angle, working slowly, you will indeed strip away that delicate
>> membrane of foil. This is long experience talking, as well as
>> research. :-)
>
> Odd. The article I was just editing on Opus Anglicanum embroidery, written
> by someone who has handled a lot of surviving pieces, specifies that the
> thread was metal wrapped around a silk core, and always couched (which is
> consistent with what I had read earlier in other places). So that would be
> the opposite of what you describe above. However, as I mentioned earlier,
> my familiarity is strictly with medieval examples. Perhaps wrapped threads
> that pass through the cloth were later than that? Or was this a medieval
> practice in some particular types of styles/uses I'm not familiar with?
> Embroidery is not my specialty area, to I tend to know about certain
> styles only because I've worked with articles or projects about them, and
> my knowledge is completely lacking in others.
>
> (No argument that metal threads that are not wrapped would not be pulled
> through the cloth because of potential damage to the cloth.)
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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I have a theory that there's a reason only boys wear them like this - the 
girls don't have the equipment to hold them up :-)

Glenda.
(my teenage boys are glad it's the style - both are very thin, and that's 
the way their trousers go anyway)

----- Original Message ----- 

>>And, at least around here, the fit of the jeans.  Guys wear them
>>ridiculously over-sized and baggy,
>
> And hanging half way down the *rse in London - I swear some of them will 
> fall down as there is no waist and hips to stop them.
>


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Thread in extant medieval garments
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Eva,

When and where will your work on this be published? Will it be available in 
English?

Beth Matney

At 08:46 AM 8/17/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:13:12 +0200
>From: "Eva Andersson" <eva.andersson@comhem.se>
>
>The thread in the Bocksten Bog man's costume did NOT survive. It was
>therefore most likely either linen or hemp, both grown in Scandinavia at
>the time. All the thread was gone when they found it in 1936. This can
>be seen from the report/book from this time "Bockstensmannen och hans
>dräkt" edited by Margareta Nockert. It is now 70 years since the
>Bocksten man was found and for the last two years a research project has
>been running. I was the person doing the dress historical research and
>has thus had the opportunity to handle the garment as well as seeing all
>the original documentation photos.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: metal thread (was Lack of thread in extant garments)
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I was under the impression (perhaps misinformed, and certainly relatively
inexperienced) that a lot of opus anglicanum was couched with silk threads.
Especially when done as "underside couching," which needs a stronger thread
for the couching, but produces a remarkably flexible fabric.  In "underside
couching," according to my notes from my Linn Skinner workshop, you're
couching your gold thread/cord onto a sturdy, but not too tightly-woven
fabric.  You come up in one spot, go over the gold bit, and go back down
into the same hole, very carefully pulling on the gold so that it almost
looks like a stitch done on a modern sewing machine.  Repeating this creates
a series of little hinges, making the embroidered areas more flexible.
According to my notes, this technique was used primarily on garments in
large areas, and not so much on small items or furnishings.
Another medieval technique shows up in St Cuthbert's stole and manciple,
which my notes label as the earliest Saxon embroideries.  They're laid gold,
mostly in red, on silk gauze, and the stitches on the back side loop into
the previous row, forming a sort of fabric on the back side.
And then, of course, there's all the later techniques--chipwork, and
embroidery stitches that are not couching.  I'm a bit familiar with them
from studying Elizabethan stuff....
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 5:28 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: metal thread (was Lack of thread in extant
garments)


>
> On Thu, 17 Aug 2006, Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:
>
> > Passing thread, however, the most fragile of all the gold
> > threads, and the most difficult to work, is as you say, a gold foil
> > (lower grades have a copper core, laid with silver, laid with gold,
> > while better grades have a silver core with gold) over a cotton
> > (modern), linen or silk core (historic). These threads are called
> > passing because they pass through the cloth, and if you have failed to
> > pass the thread through between warp and weft, at just the right
> > angle, working slowly, you will indeed strip away that delicate
> > membrane of foil. This is long experience talking, as well as
> > research. :-)
>
> Odd. The article I was just editing on Opus Anglicanum embroidery, written
> by someone who has handled a lot of surviving pieces, specifies that the
> thread was metal wrapped around a silk core, and always couched (which is
> consistent with what I had read earlier in other places). So that would be
> the opposite of what you describe above. However, as I mentioned earlier,
> my familiarity is strictly with medieval examples. Perhaps wrapped threads
> that pass through the cloth were later than that? Or was this a medieval
> practice in some particular types of styles/uses I'm not familiar with?
> Embroidery is not my specialty area, to I tend to know about certain
> styles only because I've worked with articles or projects about them, and
> my knowledge is completely lacking in others.
>
> (No argument that metal threads that are not wrapped would not be pulled
> through the cloth because of potential damage to the cloth.)
>
> --Robin
>
>
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: favorite one-period-interprets-another
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 09:07:22 -0600
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I've got a two-volume, illustrated set of Shakespeare's plays that's been in
the family since the late-ish 1800s.  The illustrations are
priceless--famous actors of the day, wearing what they would have worn on
stage in the various roles.  A 19th century's version of 16th century stage
clothing....<weg>
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: favorite one-period-interprets-another


>
> >Oh, fun.  I have a "Centennial Dress" from the 1870's that's a really
> >interesting take on quasi-Colonial.  I'm still trying to figure out what
> >they were doing with the flat-fronted skirt that has some really odd
seams
> >to make quasi-panniers, and the bias-wrapped elbow-triangles are a hoot.
>
> Look in the 1870s, or later, for "Dolly Varden" costumes.  I have an
> illustrated history of American theatre, from the 1860s to the 1960s (with
> some very interesting photos of people who got famous in the movies or TV
> later), and Dolly Varden was a play that kept getting revived.  It seems
> you can always tell the decade the photo is from.
>
> Victorian Fancy Dress costumes are just as hoot-like.
>
>
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
>
>               ///\\\\\
>              ////-@@\\\
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But I, and others of "mature" years do not wear my jeans ridiculously baggy or tight.  Shoes seem to be the best giveaway to gender.  Can you really tell me that you haven't seen someone whose gender you couldn't tell by their clothing?  I'm not talking the folks walking in Hollywood purposely trying to confuse things.

So, I still think that a future reenactor, particularly male, could be reasonably accurate from the 1950's in jeans and a t-shirt.  Clear back to the 1850s if he wore a plain shirt, not unlike a man's shirt from Renaissance times and earlier <G>.  However, since that's not "pretty" wouldn't it be deemed beginner garb?
Julie in San Diego with tongue firmly in cheek

> 
> And, at least around here, the fit of the jeans.  Guys wear them  
> ridiculously over-sized and baggy, and gals wear them ridiculously tight!   No way to 
> confuse the two.
>  
> Ann Wass
> 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: metal thread (was Lack of thread in extant garments)
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On Thu, 17 Aug 2006, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> I was under the impression (perhaps misinformed, and certainly
> relatively inexperienced) that a lot of opus anglicanum was couched
> with silk threads.

Yes. That's what I described.

> Especially when done as "underside couching," which
> needs a stronger thread for the couching, but produces a remarkably
> flexible fabric.  In "underside couching," according to my notes from
> my Linn Skinner workshop, you're couching your gold thread/cord onto a
> sturdy, but not too tightly-woven fabric.  You come up in one spot, go
> over the gold bit, and go back down into the same hole, very carefully
> pulling on the gold so that it almost looks like a stitch done on a
> modern sewing machine.

Yes again on technique, according to my author (again, I'm not an expert
on this!), though she didn't say anything about flexibility. It does make
an uninterrupted gold area, and even though a bit of the thread goes
through the fabric at each stitch, the technique doesn't require the
entire working length of the thread to pass repeatedly through the fabric.
The comparison to a modern sewing machine stitch is apt; in essence the
difference between the structure of couching and underside couching would
be like machine stitching with two different bobbin tensions.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian
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>>And, at least around here, the fit of the jeans.  Guys wear them
>>ridiculously over-sized and baggy,
>
>And hanging half way down the *rse in London - I swear some of them will 
>fall down as there is no waist and hips to stop them.
>
>>and gals wear them ridiculously tight!
>
>but showing builder's b*ms and thongs - lovely
>
>>No way to
>>confuse the two.

Notice also that different subsets of the jeans-wearing population wear 
them differently.  Old Hippies might still want them embroidered where 
their kids want them machine embroidered (a recent trend).  Construction 
crews want them with many pockets and maybe with paint on them.  Punks want 
them with studs, paint, safety pins, and artificial rips.  Kids into Grunge 
want more natural rips.  Female kids into the sexy look might want 
rhinestones with the machine embroidery, while their male counterpart will 
want their jeans oversized and dragging on the ground, possibly with Rap 
logos or graffiti on them.  Businessmen, on casual clothing days, want them 
really clean, maybe with cuffs.  Cowboys, real or imagined, like them tight 
and with straight legs.  30-something women, and middle-aged women who 
weren't Hippies, don't necessarily want the Levi look with double-stitched 
seams done in orange thread.  And the latest thing here (near San 
Francisco) seems to be jeans with the hems about a foot off the ground.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              ///\\\\\
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] favorite one-period-interprets-another
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In a message dated 8/17/2006 2:53:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jtknits@jtknits.cts.com writes:

But I,  and others of "mature" years do not wear my jeans ridiculously baggy 
or  tight.  


My husband and I, both of "mature" years, do not wear jeans at all.
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 15:38:41 -0400
From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] An interesting book find.
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Hello, all.

My spinning guild had its annual garage sale Saturday.  You never know 
what you're going to find there.

I dove into a pile of books looking for treasure, and came up with 
something interesting:

English Domestic Needlework of the 16th, 17th and 18th Centuries, by 
Preston Remington, curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, published 
in 1945.

All the photos are black and white, but the detail is very good.  The 
verbal descriptions fill in the blanks.  And it only cost me 2 dollars.

I've been contemplating a 1680s-ish gown for a while, and there is a 
stunning example in the book:

Late 17th century gray wool with brown and blue striped edged in red. 
Embroidered throughout in silver-gilt thread.

The gown in complete, and the closeup of the embroidery is all the 
information I need.  It's a monumental embroidery task, but would be 
well worth the effort.
Michelle
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 21:05:53 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] An interesting book find.
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At 20:38 17/08/2006, you wrote:
>Hello, all.
>
>My spinning guild had its annual garage sale Saturday.  You never 
>know what you're going to find there.
>
>I dove into a pile of books looking for treasure, and came up with 
>something interesting:
>
>English Domestic Needlework of the 16th, 17th and 18th Centuries, by 
>Preston Remington, curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 
>published in 1945.
>
>All the photos are black and white, but the detail is very 
>good.  The verbal descriptions fill in the blanks.  And it only cost 
>me 2 dollars.
>
>I've been contemplating a 1680s-ish gown for a while, and there is a 
>stunning example in the book:
>
>Late 17th century gray wool with brown and blue striped edged in 
>red. Embroidered throughout in silver-gilt thread.
>
>The gown in complete, and the closeup of the embroidery is all the 
>information I need.  It's a monumental embroidery task, but would be 
>well worth the effort.

Would this be the dress? It's a beautiful mantua in the costume 
collection at the Met.

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/hob_33.54a,b.htm

Suzi 

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Yes, that's the dress!
Thanks, Suzi.  The color photo will help a lot.
Michelle
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: metal thread (loquacious)
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Robin wrote:
Odd. The article I was just editing on Opus Anglicanum embroidery, written
by someone who has handled a lot of surviving pieces, specifies that the
thread was metal wrapped around a silk core, and always couched (which is
consistent with what I had read earlier in other places). So that would be
the opposite of what you describe above

	Well, yes and no. :-) The author is, of course, completely correct.
Opus Anglicanum is another whole techinique and body of work unto itself.
I've done copious (oh, pun alert!) amounts of this style of embroidery. 

	A cartoon is painted onto the ground. Then the passing thread is
attached to the ground, with either end being stitched down, not couched, so
that the entire cartoon is covered in gold thread and the cartoon is all but
obscured. Then, with coloured silk threads, the cartoon is 'painted' in a
somewhat needlepoint type of manner, couching over every two or three
threads, depending on the detail required. The density of the silk threads
is spread out to allow more and more gold to show through as the highlights
of the subject approach, until whole expanses of gold thread are left
exposed. 

	The couching of the passing thread was done solely as a manner of
achieving a painterly effect, which, in the end, became a means to an end
for securing the passing thread in place. Cennini and later St. Aubin
describe the processes of this technique, which is known as or nue, which
literally translated means shaded gold. Apologies, there should be an accent
over the 'e'.

	Passing thread, however, was and is also found in satin stitch and
stem stitch on some garments during the medieval period, and then toward the
Renaissance we find more and more use of passing thread in embroidery
stitches, until we reach the Elizabethan, where we find some extant examples
of gorgeous 'blackwork' done in passing thread on a black ground.
	
	There is a wonderful examples of silver passing thread having been
used on a cerise doublet and breeches from around the 1500s (as I recall)
cited in the book Restoration of Historical Embroideries, or some such
title. (The book's in my studio in the loft on the third floor, and I'm on
the main in my office and too tired to climb up to heaven.) What is even
more fascinating is that the doublet and breeches were reworked into a
chausable. 

	As we progress into the Baroque, passing thread used in satin stitch
reaches its zenith in garment embellishment, particularly on men's coats.
This lavish use of gold and embroidery begins to diminish during the
Regency, until it fades away into obscurity with the demise of the
professional embroidery houses.

	Gold thread work is my fascination, my passion, and my nemesis. :-)
If you're interested, in some of my work is on our website under Fine Art in
the Catalogue, way down at the end under Gallery of Other Work. Although
there are the four Celtic inspired embroideries near the beginning.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 15:48:03 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] favorite one-period-interprets-another
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>  Shoes seem to be the best giveaway to gender.  Can you really tell me 
> that you haven't seen someone whose gender you couldn't tell by their 
> clothing?

Not from the front anyway.

>So, I still think that a future reenactor, particularly male, could be 
>reasonably accurate from the 1950's in jeans and a t-shirt.  Clear back to 
>the 1850s if he wore a plain shirt, not unlike a man's shirt from 
>Renaissance times and earlier <G>.

Hairstyle is another indicator, so from the neck down you might be right, 
but above that you won't be.  (You knew that.)

>However, since that's not "pretty" wouldn't it be deemed beginner garb?

As it happens, I went round and round with one of my Victorian groups, 
where they actually thought Working Class was what you did till you could 
afford Middle Class.  I, one of the costume resource people for that group, 
had been doing Working Class for years, with triple piping where 
appropriate on my Sunday best dress, etc.  That year we attracted lots of 
Working Class Newbies who, at my instigation, did it just to have fun.  And 
fun we had - at the expense of some of those same misguided Middle Class 
folks.  Now, years later, some of those Working Class not-Newbies-anymore 
are still doing it, same reason.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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--- Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com> wrote:
> I've been contemplating a 1680s-ish gown for a
> while, and there is a stunning example in the book:
> 
> Late 17th century gray wool with brown and blue
> striped edged in red. 
> Embroidered throughout in silver-gilt thread.
> 
> The gown in complete, and the closeup of the
> embroidery is all the 
> information I need.  It's a monumental embroidery
> task, but would be 
> well worth the effort.
> Michelle

The Met manteau.  Oh, what a fabulous garment.  
I was fortunate enough to see it in person when it was
on exhibit (the theme was around the seasons) at the
Costume Institute.  There was a catalog, but it lacked
a different gown in the exhibit and I did not purchase
it. 

The colors are richer in life than in any photo I'd
ever seen of it.  Not brighter or darker, but a
difference in texture, I think.

It is quite the task you've set for yourself, but I
expect you can do it.


Ann in CT

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] favorite one-period-interprets-another
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On Thursday 17 August 2006 2:50 pm, Julie wrote:
> But I, and others of "mature" years do not wear my jeans ridiculously baggy
> or tight.  Shoes seem to be the best giveaway to gender.  Can you really
> tell me that you haven't seen someone whose gender you couldn't tell by
> their clothing?  I'm not talking the folks walking in Hollywood purposely
> trying to confuse things.

Absolutely.  

Today I saw a young person with a crewcut in an airplane terminal.  The person 
was wearing a gray t-shirt, jeans, and (I think) what they call river sandals 
(a two-strap sandal, made for both men and women).  I thought the person was 
male--till I took a second look and saw that she had discernible--and quite 
large!--breasts.  

>
> So, I still think that a future reenactor, particularly male, could be
> reasonably accurate from the 1950's in jeans and a t-shirt.  Clear back to
> the 1850s if he wore a plain shirt, not unlike a man's shirt from
> Renaissance times and earlier <G>.  However, since that's not "pretty"
> wouldn't it be deemed beginner garb? Julie in San Diego with tongue firmly
> in cheek
>
> > And, at least around here, the fit of the jeans.  Guys wear them
> > ridiculously over-sized and baggy, and gals wear them ridiculously tight!

True sometimes, but by no means always.  I've seen many young women -- even 
slender ones--who wear their jeans with plenty of ease.  I haven't typically 
seen men wear jeans tight, but I've seen plenty of people of both sexes who 
wear normal, close-to-the-body but not horrendously tight, jeans.  In that 
case, it can be harder to tell the gender by body shape and clothing alone.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Subject: [h-cost] Favorite one-period-interprets-another - Victor's book of
	the opera
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Has anyone else inherited the c. 1910's "Victor book of the opera" from
their grandparents? I had the reputation of a bookworm as a child, so maybe
someone else pawned it off on my parents for me.

It includes heaps of photographs of Edwardian opera stars in costume, acting
very hard for the camera. As I remember, some of the costumes are not too
bad, but most are sooooo Edwardian- interpretations of the time periods of
the various operas. As I remember (Lord knows where my copy is now) there
were a lot of "Gibson Girl" interpretations of costume, still,  - the pouch
just above the waist and the outthrust butt.

On the other hand, many of the male, as well as the female, singers are
quite chunky (sturdy?), which is rather refreshing as our culture obsesses
about obesity.

Keep an eye out for it in second book stores - it's worth the purchase for
amusement!

Sheridan Alder

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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 19:31:23 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Jeans (WAS: illustrator vs fashion historian)
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Every so often the conversation comes around to a point where I feel 
like mentioning again Drea Leed's hilarious little essay on 
21st-century "superwide" jeans -- a paper (to be) given at the CXII 
Interplanetary Costume Collegium, 2543 A.D.

Her excellent Elizabethan Costuming site has moved since the last 
time I tried to access this article, and it isn't mentioned anywhere 
on her index page. But -- acting on a hunch of what its address might 
be -- I was delighted to find that presto! It's still there, right 
along with the rest of the site.

It can now be found at:
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/superwides.htm

Enjoy. <evil grin>
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 01:49:35 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite one-period-interprets-another - Victor's
	book of the opera
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>On the other hand, many of the male, as well as the female, singers are
>quite chunky (sturdy?), which is rather refreshing as our culture obsesses
>about obesity.

I believe I heard, someplace, that Lillian Russel, the sexy young thing of 
the 1890s, weighed 175 pounds.  Don't know how tall she was, but think Mae 
West.

>Keep an eye out for it in second book stores - it's worth the purchase for
>amusement!

Thanx.  I'll keep my eyes open.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Sue Clemenger wrote:
> I've got a two-volume, illustrated set of Shakespeare's plays that's been in
> the family since the late-ish 1800s.  The illustrations are
> priceless--famous actors of the day, wearing what they would have worn on
> stage in the various roles.  A 19th century's version of 16th century stage
> clothing....<weg>
> --Sue

There are photos online of some turn of the century actors in costume at
http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/actors/pics.html
Only a few of them are truly hysterical, but it is an interesting 
collection of costume design from that period.

Melanie Schuessler

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Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 01:45:50 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] favorite one-period-interprets-another
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> > > And, at least around here, the fit of the jeans.  Guys wear them
> > > ridiculously over-sized and baggy, and gals wear them ridiculously tight!
>
>True sometimes, but by no means always.  I've seen many young women -- even
>slender ones--who wear their jeans with plenty of ease.  I haven't typically
>seen men wear jeans tight, but I've seen plenty of people of both sexes who
>wear normal, close-to-the-body but not horrendously tight, jeans.  In that
>case, it can be harder to tell the gender by body shape and clothing alone.

There are neighborhoods in San Francisco where some men wear horrendously 
tight jeans, and their "body shape" leaves very little to the imagination...


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Favorite one-period-interprets-another - Victor's
	book of the opera/Singers
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At 09:49 18/08/2006, you wrote:

>>On the other hand, many of the male, as well as the female, singers are
>>quite chunky (sturdy?), which is rather refreshing as our culture obsesses
>>about obesity.
>
>I believe I heard, someplace, that Lillian Russel, the sexy young 
>thing of the 1890s, weighed 175 pounds.  Don't know how tall she 
>was, but think Mae West.
>
>>Keep an eye out for it in second book stores - it's worth the purchase for
>>amusement!

I once saw aMadam Butterfly played by a woman of 5'10", strapping to 
say the least, with a large mono-bosom, and all of fifty, possibly 
older. Made a mockery of "my little Butterfly"!! (And Pinkerton 
should have retired about 10 years earlier, as he was not only in his 
sixties, but shorter than her, and as fat. Put me off Puccini forever!

Suzi 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] An interesting book find.
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 16:21:54 +0200
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Hi Michelle,
This is the Mantua from Cut of Womens Clothes by Norah Waugh. Its gorgeous, 
but what a work to make ;-(

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michelle Plumb" <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 9:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] An interesting book find.


> Hello, all.
>
> My spinning guild had its annual garage sale Saturday.  You never know 
> what you're going to find there.
>
> I dove into a pile of books looking for treasure, and came up with 
> something interesting:
>
> English Domestic Needlework of the 16th, 17th and 18th Centuries, by 
> Preston Remington, curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, published in 
> 1945.
>
> All the photos are black and white, but the detail is very good.  The 
> verbal descriptions fill in the blanks.  And it only cost me 2 dollars.
>
> I've been contemplating a 1680s-ish gown for a while, and there is a 
> stunning example in the book:
>
> Late 17th century gray wool with brown and blue striped edged in red. 
> Embroidered throughout in silver-gilt thread.
>
> The gown in complete, and the closeup of the embroidery is all the 
> information I need.  It's a monumental embroidery task, but would be well 
> worth the effort.
> Michelle
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Subject: [h-cost] a question about couching gold
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I just wondered if any of you have some good advises regarding couching.
I have used it in outlinings in my embroideries, and i have noticed, when i 
take it out of the frame, it has a little tendensy to gather the fabric 
slightly together. Is this because i use two big distance between each 
couching stitch? How can i avoid this?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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If the two straps were parallel, you were probably looking at 
Birkenstocks, the Arizona model, possibly the single most popular 
sandal with Americans of both sexes between the ages of 25 and 70, and 
generally associated in the media with "liberals" and "tree-huggers." 
"River sandals" might be Teva sandals, which have a straight strap 
across the toes, a diagonal strap to the ankle, and, I believe, an 
ankle strap (my brother-in-law and sister wear those, but I haven't 
really looked closely at them, being a Birkenstock person myself). Some 
(not all) Tevas are made of waterproof materials. (The popular image of 
the Teva wearer is, I believe, "young outdoorsman" and Sierra Club.)
--RA Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Aug 17, 2006, at 9:15 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>
> Today I saw a young person with a crewcut in an airplane terminal.  
> The person
> was wearing a gray t-shirt, jeans, and (I think) what they call river 
> sandals
> (a two-strap sandal, made for both men and women). 
>  

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From: "Eva Andersson" <eva.andersson@comhem.se>
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Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:30:09 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] Bocksten bog man research
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I recently got the question when my research on the Bocksten bog man's
costume was going to be published. I'm sorry it ttok me acouple of days
to answer, but my PhD-dissertation just arrived from the printer and
I've been busy sendingit to libraries, other universities etc the last
two days. (An abstract for the dissertation can be found
here:http://web.comhem.se/~u41200125/abstract.htm).
 What I did concernign the Bocksten bog man was an unpublished report
for the museum, which they used when they built the new exhibition.
There will probably be a new book some time next year (and I'm doing my
best to convince them to make an english version too), but nothing is
decided yet (funding is of course an issue)
Ev
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I read recently that "studies" have shown that men, despite fads in
different clothes and body types, steadily prefer women who had a
waist-to-hip ratio 70%. The book said that whatever the shape or age of the
woman (they used photos to test this) men consistently rate the ones with
the hourglass figures as attractive. This was in a new book about body
language -- a best seller I saw last week at someone's house. I don't know
the title.

FWIW -- Gail Finke

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about couching gold
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 13:58:44 -0500
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I have found that when I get that result I have too much tension with the
couching thread.
De

-----Original Message-----
I just wondered if any of you have some good advises regarding couching.
I have used it in outlinings in my embroideries, and i have noticed, when i
take it out of the frame, it has a little tendensy to gather the fabric
slightly together. Is this because i use two big distance between each
couching stitch? How can i avoid this?

Bjarne



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The September issue of Vogue is just out on newsstands and as well as
being the usual massive Fall Fashion issue, it has Kirsten Dunst on the
cover in full regalia as Marie Antoinette in the upcoming movie. There
is a multipage spread on MA's life, which includes large and small pics
of some of the actors as shot within the environs of Versailles.
Costumes look pretty accurate, but since people behind the movie have
already admitted they "updated" the look to appeal to the modern
audience, it should be fun to play "separate fact from modern fantasy"
while watching the film. Always a fun game to play while watching any
historically-set film or TV show that is good or bad, especially bad.
Of course Versailles will be a super-clean and sparkling that never
existed in the 18th century. Well, historically-correct-wise, it can't
be more "off" than the Norma Shearer "Marie Antoinette"

There is also an excerpt from the upcoming book on Marie Antoinette's
influence on fashion "What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution"  You
can preorder it as I already have from B&N or Amazon. And there will
also be a making of the movie book.

There is a third spread with Dunst in several majorally fantastic
fantasy fashions commissioned by Vogue from different top of the fashion
house mountain denizens, again photographed around Versailles.
 
Apparently, the original Marie Antoinette perfume has also been
"reimagined" and produced by a tres famous French perfumer. If you have
a mere $500 laying around doing rien, you can have the mere mortals
edition. For $8,000+ you can grab the exclusive flacon for those with
unlimited clothing funds from the treasury.

Cindy Abel

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I am a new member who has been lurking a few days. Wow, this is a great
list!

I am a historical novelist/stay-at-home-mom/costume enthusiast from Maine
who is currently making an Empire gown, thanks to Janet Arnold. Other
projects included a Spencer from the same volume (_Patterns of Fashion 1,
Englishwomen's dresses and their construction, c 1660 - 1860_) and a c 1936
gown from Volume 2 of the series. I got inspired to dive into such projects
because of a wonderful costume designer, Hilary Derby (or Darby--I can't
quite remember) who created lovely costumes for the Theater at Monmouth, in
Monmouth, Maine (the Shakespearian Theater of Maine).

Thank you for letting me be a member of this list!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown
http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm


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Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 20:29:45 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bocksten bog man research
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I look forward to seeing the Bocksten book. Please keep us informed as the 
project progresses.... and now I have to find a copy of your dissertation!

Beth

>Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:30:09 +0200
>From: "Eva Andersson" <eva.andersson@comhem.se>
>
>I recently got the question when my research on the Bocksten bog man's
>costume was going to be published. I'm sorry it took me a couple of days
>to answer, but my PhD-dissertation just arrived from the printer and
>I've been busy sending it to libraries, other universities etc the last
>two days. (An abstract for the dissertation can be found
>here:http://web.comhem.se/~u41200125/abstract.htm.
>  What I did concerning the Bocksten bog man was an unpublished report
>for the museum, which they used when they built the new exhibition.
>There will probably be a new book some time next year (and I'm doing my
>best to convince them to make an english version too), but nothing is
>decided yet (funding is of course an issue)
>Ev

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Gilbert wrote:


> 
> I am a historical novelist/stay-at-home-mom/costume enthusiast from Maine
> who is currently making an Empire gown, thanks to Janet Arnold. Other
> projects included a Spencer from the same volume (_Patterns of Fashion 1,
> Englishwomen's dresses and their construction, c 1660 - 1860_) and a c 1936
> gown from Volume 2 of the series. 


Mmmn, yummy! Be sure to show us pictures when you get finished!


Dawn



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Welcome Marjorie. 
  Lady Von
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
  

Gilbert <tgilbert737@adelphia.net> wrote:
  I am a new member who has been lurking a few days. Wow, this is a great
list!

I am a historical novelist/stay-at-home-mom/costume enthusiast from Maine
who is currently making an Empire gown, thanks to Janet Arnold. Other
projects included a Spencer from the same volume (_Patterns of Fashion 1,
Englishwomen's dresses and their construction, c 1660 - 1860_) and a c 1936
gown from Volume 2 of the series. I got inspired to dive into such projects
because of a wonderful costume designer, Hilary Derby (or Darby--I can't
quite remember) who created lovely costumes for the Theater at Monmouth, in
Monmouth, Maine (the Shakespearian Theater of Maine).

Thank you for letting me be a member of this list!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown
http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm


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  Lady Von
   
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 		
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE:a question about couching gold
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Bjarne wrote:
I have used it in outlinings in my embroideries, and i have noticed, when i 
take it out of the frame, it has a little tendensy to gather the fabric 
slightly together. Is this because i use two big distance between each 
couching stitch?

	Your problem could be caused by several problems.

1. You're stretching your ground too tightly in the frame and consequently
it puckers when released from tension, particularly around metal thread
which isn't as elastic as textile.

2. As you surmise, your stitch length between couching stitches may be too
long. About 5mm apart is long enough.

3. You may be pulling your couching stitches too tightly.

	Hope this is of some help.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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From: "Catalina Elvira Osorio Lopez de Xerez" <ladycatalina@hotmail.com>
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Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 22:16:56 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] Renaisance doublet-practical solution
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The solution I have come up with for lacing sleeves on men's renaissance 
doublets is not quick, but it seems to last. I make 'tabs' with button holes 
the same fabric as the doublet and sew them on. I do the same thing to the 
sleeves. Then the fabric of the sleeve fits over the tabs on the doublet and 
the two are laced together. The tabs are hidden when the sleeves are on. 
Because they are the same fabric as the doublet, they are not obvious if the 
sleeves are removed.



Catalina


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Thank you!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown
http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Introduction


> Welcome Marjorie.
>   Lady Von
>   http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
>
>
> Gilbert <tgilbert737@adelphia.net> wrote:
>   I am a new member who has been lurking a few days. Wow, this is a great
> list!
>
> I am a historical novelist/stay-at-home-mom/costume enthusiast from Maine
> who is currently making an Empire gown, thanks to Janet Arnold. Other
> projects included a Spencer from the same volume (_Patterns of Fashion 1,
> Englishwomen's dresses and their construction, c 1660 - 1860_) and a c
1936
> gown from Volume 2 of the series. I got inspired to dive into such
projects
> because of a wonderful costume designer, Hilary Derby (or Darby--I can't
> quite remember) who created lovely costumes for the Theater at Monmouth,
in
> Monmouth, Maine (the Shakespearian Theater of Maine).
>
> Thank you for letting me be a member of this list!
>
> Marjorie
>
> Marjorie Gilbert
> author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
> www.marjoriegilbert.net
> Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown
> http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
>   Lady Von
>
>   http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low  PC-to-Phone call
rates.
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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> > I am a historical novelist/stay-at-home-mom/costume enthusiast from
Maine
> > who is currently making an Empire gown, thanks to Janet Arnold. Other
> > projects included a Spencer from the same volume (_Patterns of Fashion
1,
> > Englishwomen's dresses and their construction, c 1660 - 1860_) and a c
1936
> > gown from Volume 2 of the series.
>
>
> Mmmn, yummy! Be sure to show us pictures when you get finished!
>
>
> Dawn


Will do!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown
http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm


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Greetings all,

I know that in the last few years, there have been several finds re- 
examined with new interpretations coming from them.  I can't recall  
which finds are the ones being re-examined.  I am pretty sure that  
the "Arnegunde" garments are at German-en-Laye for re-conservation.

Does anyone know which garments have been re-conserved and new things  
learned?  Any publications on them?

Thanks!


Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: E List <e_list@ealdormere.sca.org>,
        Historical Costume List <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Useful Resource
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Status: RO

When the itinerant textile/costume research folks are back from Pennsic, some might find this pdf useful:
URL: http://www.textilemuseum.org/PDFs/Worldwidetextilecollections.pdf

Description: The International Directory of Textile Collections has been compiled by members of staff and volunteers at the Arthur D. Jenkins Library at the Textile Museum in Washington, D.C. Compiled from the Library's resources, the directory lists "museums specializing in textiles, costumes, or rugs or museums listing them among their collections". Locations are listed in alphabetical order. Adobe Reader is required in order to view the document.

Kathy/Cait.
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
 
Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131




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Subject: [h-cost] OT: civil war experts
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Status: RO

For those of you involved in civil war costuming, I have a slightly odd 
request.  Do you know any historians, professional or amateur, who know 
everything about Shiloh and events around the same time & area?

See, for the past 15 years, I've had this very frustrating, completely 
impossible research project that I've been picking up every few years, and 
now that the internet has become such a useful research tool, I'm going to 
try to take it up again. Pardon me if my memory is fuzzy on the details, 
since it's been a while and I haven't looked back through my info. Anyway, 
in Friendship Cemetary, in Columbus, MS, there is a mysterious grave: it's 
among the CSA soldiers' grave, but is labeled only "Nurse Canant, CSA."  To 
the knowledge of the history professor who assigned me this research project 
in the first place (the college-two-years-early boarding school I went to 
did a "Tales from the Crypt" event every year), no other woman was 
officially buried as though she were a soldier (not taking into account 
crossdressers) in any CSA graveyard.  Obviously, there's an interesting 
story in there somewhere, but what on earth did she do to get that honor, 
and why didn't they know anything else about her?  I researched her as best 
I could with local resources, and discovered that she would most likely have 
died in the battle of Shiloh, but was unable to find any Canants or Cannants 
in the area, or anything else of real use in solving the mystery.

Hopefully some of you can understand why I can't let this go!  A few years 
back, I did the rounds of the geneaology websites, with no luck, but I'm not 
giving up yet.

-E House

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Status: RO

At the risk of being obvious, are you sure that Nurse Canant was a female?

Laurie, RN, BSN


>From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] OT: civil war experts
>Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 10:52:56 -0500
>
>For those of you involved in civil war costuming, I have a slightly odd 
>request.  Do you know any historians, professional or amateur, who know 
>everything about Shiloh and events around the same time & area?
>
>See, for the past 15 years, I've had this very frustrating, completely 
>impossible research project that I've been picking up every few years, and 
>now that the internet has become such a useful research tool, I'm going to 
>try to take it up again. Pardon me if my memory is fuzzy on the details, 
>since it's been a while and I haven't looked back through my info. Anyway, 
>in Friendship Cemetary, in Columbus, MS, there is a mysterious grave: it's 
>among the CSA soldiers' grave, but is labeled only "Nurse Canant, CSA."  To 
>the knowledge of the history professor who assigned me this research 
>project in the first place (the college-two-years-early boarding school I 
>went to did a "Tales from the Crypt" event every year), no other woman was 
>officially buried as though she were a soldier (not taking into account 
>crossdressers) in any CSA graveyard.  Obviously, there's an interesting 
>story in there somewhere, but what on earth did she do to get that honor, 
>and why didn't they know anything else about her?  I researched her as best 
>I could with local resources, and discovered that she would most likely 
>have died in the battle of Shiloh, but was unable to find any Canants or 
>Cannants in the area, or anything else of real use in solving the mystery.
>
>Hopefully some of you can understand why I can't let this go!  A few years 
>back, I did the rounds of the geneaology websites, with no luck, but I'm 
>not giving up yet.
>
>-E House
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Just asked my historian/civil war buff roommate and he hadn't heard of
her, but did a quick search on "nurse canant" on msn and came up with
several hits, the first mentioning the marking of one grave marked
"Mrs. Canant, volunteer nurse CSA"

Alex

On 8/20/06, E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
> For those of you involved in civil war costuming, I have a slightly odd
> request.  Do you know any historians, professional or amateur, who know
> everything about Shiloh and events around the same time & area?
>
> See, for the past 15 years, I've had this very frustrating, completely
> impossible research project that I've been picking up every few years, and
> now that the internet has become such a useful research tool, I'm going to
> try to take it up again. Pardon me if my memory is fuzzy on the details,
> since it's been a while and I haven't looked back through my info. Anyway,
> in Friendship Cemetary, in Columbus, MS, there is a mysterious grave: it's
> among the CSA soldiers' grave, but is labeled only "Nurse Canant, CSA."  To
> the knowledge of the history professor who assigned me this research project
> in the first place (the college-two-years-early boarding school I went to
> did a "Tales from the Crypt" event every year), no other woman was
> officially buried as though she were a soldier (not taking into account
> crossdressers) in any CSA graveyard.  Obviously, there's an interesting
> story in there somewhere, but what on earth did she do to get that honor,
> and why didn't they know anything else about her?  I researched her as best
> I could with local resources, and discovered that she would most likely have
> died in the battle of Shiloh, but was unable to find any Canants or Cannants
> in the area, or anything else of real use in solving the mystery.
>
> Hopefully some of you can understand why I can't let this go!  A few years
> back, I did the rounds of the geneaology websites, with no luck, but I'm not
> giving up yet.
>
> -E House
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <000601c6c3bf$00962e90$6400a8c0@MAIN>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:a question about couching gold
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 19:55:09 +0200
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Hello,

Thanks for the responses. I think in my case it could be that i pull the 
thread two much, ill have that in note next time.

Many thanks

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE:a question about couching gold


> Bjarne wrote:
> I have used it in outlinings in my embroideries, and i have noticed, when 
> i
> take it out of the frame, it has a little tendensy to gather the fabric
> slightly together. Is this because i use two big distance between each
> couching stitch?
>
> Your problem could be caused by several problems.
>
> 1. You're stretching your ground too tightly in the frame and consequently
> it puckers when released from tension, particularly around metal thread
> which isn't as elastic as textile.
>
> 2. As you surmise, your stitch length between couching stitches may be too
> long. About 5mm apart is long enough.
>
> 3. You may be pulling your couching stitches too tightly.
>
> Hope this is of some help.
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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> Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 05:20:46 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
> Subject: [h-cost] Useful Resource
> To: E List <e_list@ealdormere.sca.org>, Historical Costume List
>         <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> Message-ID: <20060820122046.92470.qmail@web52107.mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> When the itinerant textile/costume research folks are back from Pennsic, some might find this pdf useful:
> URL: http://www.textilemuseum.org/PDFs/Worldwidetextilecollections.pdf
>
> Description: The International Directory of Textile Collections has been compiled by members of staff and volunteers at the Arthur D. Jenkins Library at the Textile Museum in Washington, D.C. Compiled from the Library's resources, the directory lists "museums specializing in textiles, costumes, or rugs or museums listing them among their collections". Locations are listed in alphabetical order. Adobe Reader is required in order to view the document.

Thank you for posting this! I'm going to download and hang on to.

Also, for people in the U.S., there's a new guide put out by the
Costume Society of America listing all clothing and textile
collections:

http://www.americasclosets.com/guide.htm
>
> Kathy/Cait.
>
> Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
>
> Its never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131
>
Allison T.

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> Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 05:20:46 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
> Subject: [h-cost] Useful Resource
> To: E List <e_list@ealdormere.sca.org>, Historical Costume List
>         <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> Message-ID: <20060820122046.92470.qmail@web52107.mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> When the itinerant textile/costume research folks are back from Pennsic, some might find this pdf useful:
> URL: http://www.textilemuseum.org/PDFs/Worldwidetextilecollections.pdf
>
> Description: The International Directory of Textile Collections has been compiled by members of staff and volunteers at the Arthur D. Jenkins Library at the Textile Museum in Washington, D.C. Compiled from the Library's resources, the directory lists "museums specializing in textiles, costumes, or rugs or museums listing them among their collections". Locations are listed in alphabetical order. Adobe Reader is required in order to view the document.

Thank you for posting this! I'm going to download and hang on to.

Also, for people in the U.S., there's a new guide put out by the
Costume Society of America listing all clothing and textile
collections:

http://www.americasclosets.com/guide.htm
>
> Kathy/Cait.
>
> Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
>
> Its never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131
>
Allison T.

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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From: Vicki Betts <vbetts@gower.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: civil war experts
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She probably didn't die *in* the battle of Shiloh, but from an illness 
contracted while nursing in the Columbus, MS hospital (either military 
or private) after the battle of Shiloh. A number of women, in groups and 
singly, converged in northern Mississippi from across the South 
immediately after the battle, including the famous Kate Cumming of 
Mobile who left a journal. Therefore you are not just looking at local 
women. However, you are lucky in that Canant is such an uncommon name. 
Have you tried the 1860 and 1870 census search in Heritage Quest? There 
are no Canants listed in Mississippi, but there are three in Alabama, 
plus a few more in Georgia. What adult married women named Canant 
appeared in the 1860 census that did not appear anywhere (allowing for 
the large movement of people after the war) in the 1870 census? Then you 
may have to check out places like Tallapoosa County, Alabama, home of 
the widow Mary S. Canant, age 40, but with small children. Did she die 
during the war, or just remarry? It certainly won't be easy, but it 
looks like you've tried the more obvious places already. BTW, she did 
not appear in _Confederate Hospitals on the Move_, and I have not 
spotted her in my Southern newspaper research for the Civil War.

To tie this back to costuming, the clothing of Northern Civil War nurses 
is explored in:
Hoisington, Daniel. ‘Women of Discreet Manners’: Union Army Nurses and 
Their Attire.” Citizens’ Companion 4 no. 5 (December 1997-January 1998): 
12-19.

Vicki Betts

E House wrote:

> I researched her as best I could with local resources, and discovered 
> that she would most likely have died in the battle of Shiloh, but was 
> unable to find any Canants or Cannants in the area, or anything else 
> of real use in solving the mystery.



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Subject: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 584
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Friendship Cemetery in Columbus; resting among the soldiers in the center 
section is a volunteer nurse killed in the battle of Shiloh.  The headstone 
reads “ Mrs.  Canant, Vol.  Nurse, CSA.”
Definitely female.


Catalina
Sanguinem dumtaxat causam virtutis pendate



>Message: 8
>Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 09:37:33 -0700
>From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: civil war experts
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Message-ID: <BAY113-F175D1AD1EC7569308AF67FA7400@phx.gbl>
>Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
>At the risk of being obvious, are you sure that Nurse Canant was a female?
>
>Laurie, RN, BSN
>
>
> >From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
> >Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Subject: [h-cost] OT: civil war experts
> >Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 10:52:56 -0500
> >
> >For those of you involved in civil war costuming, I have a slightly odd
> >request.  Do you know any historians, professional or amateur, who know
> >everything about Shiloh and events around the same time & area?
> >
> >See, for the past 15 years, I've had this very frustrating, completely
> >impossible research project that I've been picking up every few years, 
>and
> >now that the internet has become such a useful research tool, I'm going 
>to
> >try to take it up again. Pardon me if my memory is fuzzy on the details,
> >since it's been a while and I haven't looked back through my info. 
>Anyway,
> >in Friendship Cemetary, in Columbus, MS, there is a mysterious grave: 
>it's
> >among the CSA soldiers' grave, but is labeled only "Nurse Canant, CSA."  
>To
> >the knowledge of the history professor who assigned me this research
> >project in the first place (the college-two-years-early boarding school I
> >went to did a "Tales from the Crypt" event every year), no other woman 
>was
> >officially buried as though she were a soldier (not taking into account
> >crossdressers) in any CSA graveyard.  Obviously, there's an interesting
> >story in there somewhere, but what on earth did she do to get that honor,
> >and why didn't they know anything else about her?  I researched her as 
>best
> >I could with local resources, and discovered that she would most likely
> >have died in the battle of Shiloh, but was unable to find any Canants or
> >Cannants in the area, or anything else of real use in solving the 
>mystery.
> >
> >Hopefully some of you can understand why I can't let this go!  A few 
>years
> >back, I did the rounds of the geneaology websites, with no luck, but I'm
> >not giving up yet.
> >
> >-E House
> >
> >_______________________________________________


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
> At the risk of being obvious, are you sure that Nurse Canant was a female?

I'm not 100% positive, but the person in the grave is recorded as being 
female in the cemetary's records. (Accordingly to out-of-date memory, mind 
you.)

-E House

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Subject: [h-cost] "Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD"
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Pritchard, Frances.  "Clothing Culture: Dress in Egypt in the First  
Millenium AD". Manchester: Whitworth Art Gallery, 2006.  25 pounds + 14  pounds 
shipping to the US
 
Just received my copy of this book from The Whitworth Art Gallery at the  
University of Manchester in England.  Wow.
 
It is an oversized (9.5" x 12") book with 154 pages of photographs, all in  
brilliant color.  The pictures of the sprang alone were, to me, worth the  
cost.  
 
Nancy  

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 
Ingvild  Josefsdatter, OL
Kingdom of Atlantia

"But if by 'Liberal' they mean  someone who looks ahead and not behind, 
someone who welcomes new ideas without  rigid reactions, someone who cares about 
the welfare of the people -- their  health, their housing, their schools, their 
jobs, their civil rights, and their  civil liberties -- someone who believes 
we can break through the stalemate and  suspicions that grip us in our policies 
abroad, if that is what they mean by  'Liberal', then I'm proud to say I'm a 
'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept  1960

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Introduction
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 22:54:27 -0700
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Welcome. Got pictures?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Gilbert
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 5:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Introduction


I am a new member who has been lurking a few days. Wow, this is a great
list!

I am a historical novelist/stay-at-home-mom/costume enthusiast from Maine
who is currently making an Empire gown, thanks to Janet Arnold. Other
projects included a Spencer from the same volume (_Patterns of Fashion 1,
Englishwomen's dresses and their construction, c 1660 - 1860_) and a c 1936
gown from Volume 2 of the series. I got inspired to dive into such projects
because of a wonderful costume designer, Hilary Derby (or Darby--I can't
quite remember) who created lovely costumes for the Theater at Monmouth, in
Monmouth, Maine (the Shakespearian Theater of Maine).

Thank you for letting me be a member of this list!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown
http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm


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Subject: [h-cost] Ben Franklin era or late 1700's America
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Greetings all,

Today I volunteered to participate in a program involving BenFranklin. I
also volunteered to sew his costume and mine. I have until March to get this
done so I am not in a huge rush. However, the lady who asked me to do it
KNOWS I do medieval garb and am slowly "loosing" my not-period-correct garb
and replacing it with better quality stuff. She is really wanting to do
period correct for this show. I can't sew without a pattern. Can anyone
recommend a really good pattern for a man's outfit and for a maid (my part)
? A quick look on the internet turned up The Towsend catalog website, does
anyone know if their patterns are period correct?

My thanks in advance,
Lisa in MT

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lack of thread in extant garments
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Hi. The recent book (2005) on the Mary Rose finds mentions some silk 
thread being found in conjunction with the leather jerkins. I can quote 
the source if needed. Mike T.


>I've seen this mentioned in a number of places but don't have a cite
>offhand. If I were to look for one, it would be in the Museum of London's
>"Textiles and Dress" book. Another possibility is Else Ostergard's "Woven
>Into the Earth," which mentions the paucity of linen survivals in
>Greenland; whether it discusses thread, I'm not sure.
>
>--Robin
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Ben Franklin era or late 1700's America
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On 8/21/06, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
You want Costume Close-Up, Linda Baumgartner, published by Colonial
Williamsburg.  Patterns plus the "how-to".  Color pictures showing
what tailors really want to see.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

> Today I volunteered to participate in a program involving BenFranklin. I
> also volunteered to sew his costume and mine. I have until March to get this
> done so I am not in a huge rush. However, the lady who asked me to do it
> KNOWS I do medieval garb and am slowly "loosing" my not-period-correct garb
> and replacing it with better quality stuff. She is really wanting to do
> period correct for this show. I can't sew without a pattern. Can anyone
> recommend a really good pattern for a man's outfit and for a maid (my part)
> ? A quick look on the internet turned up The Towsend catalog website, does
> anyone know if their patterns are period correct?
>
> My thanks in advance,
> Lisa in MT
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Ben Franklin era or late 1700's America
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On 8/21/06, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
You want Costume Close-Up, Linda Baumgartner, published by Colonial
Williamsburg.  Patterns plus the "how-to".  Color pictures showing
what tailors really want to see.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

> Today I volunteered to participate in a program involving BenFranklin. I
> also volunteered to sew his costume and mine. I have until March to get this
> done so I am not in a huge rush. However, the lady who asked me to do it
> KNOWS I do medieval garb and am slowly "loosing" my not-period-correct garb
> and replacing it with better quality stuff. She is really wanting to do
> period correct for this show. I can't sew without a pattern. Can anyone
> recommend a really good pattern for a man's outfit and for a maid (my part)
> ? A quick look on the internet turned up The Towsend catalog website, does
> anyone know if their patterns are period correct?
>
> My thanks in advance,
> Lisa in MT
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD"
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 11:55:37 -0700
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How does one purchase a copy? Is it available overseas (I'm in the US)?

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <SNSpies@aol.com>
To: <sca-laurels@ansteorra.org>
Cc: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: [h-cost] "Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD"


> Pritchard, Frances.  "Clothing Culture: Dress in Egypt in the First
> Millenium AD". Manchester: Whitworth Art Gallery, 2006.  25 pounds + 14 
> pounds
> shipping to the US
>
> Just received my copy of this book from The Whitworth Art Gallery at the
> University of Manchester in England.  Wow.
>
> It is an oversized (9.5" x 12") book with 154 pages of photographs, all in
> brilliant color.  The pictures of the sprang alone were, to me, worth the
> cost.
>
> Nancy
>
> Nancy  Spies
> Arelate Studio
> _www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_
> (http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html)
> Ingvild  Josefsdatter, OL
> Kingdom of Atlantia
>
> "But if by 'Liberal' they mean  someone who looks ahead and not behind,
> someone who welcomes new ideas without  rigid reactions, someone who cares 
> about
> the welfare of the people -- their  health, their housing, their schools, 
> their
> jobs, their civil rights, and their  civil liberties -- someone who 
> believes
> we can break through the stalemate and  suspicions that grip us in our 
> policies
> abroad, if that is what they mean by  'Liberal', then I'm proud to say I'm 
> a
> 'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept  1960
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 02:07:53 -0600
From: "L. Williams" 
Subject: [h-cost] Ben Franklin era or late 1700's America
To: "Historical Costume" 
Message-ID: <004501c6c4f8$e9a117a0$87199245@Lisa>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Greetings all,

Today I volunteered to participate in a program involving BenFranklin. I
also volunteered to sew his costume and mine. I have until March to get this
done so I am not in a huge rush. However, the lady who asked me to do it
KNOWS I do medieval garb and am slowly "loosing" my not-period-correct garb
and replacing it with better quality stuff. She is really wanting to do
period correct for this show. I can't sew without a pattern. Can anyone
recommend a really good pattern for a man's outfit and for a maid (my part)
? A quick look on the internet turned up The Towsend catalog website, does
anyone know if their patterns are period correct?

My thanks in advance,
Lisa in MT


The simple answer is yes and no....Be careful of what you get from Townsend.
   
  Their off the rack is if-y, some it authentic, some is not.
  Their patterns are the same way (some are authentic, some are not...but it seems to my recollection that more are authentic, than not.  JP Ryan is a good line, as is Kanicks Korner  Try to stay away from Eagles view, and Pegee's of Williamsburg, the scholarship on these has been passed by the first two lines.  Also. go to the library and get, (inter library loan if they don't have them)  Fitting and Proper, The williamsburg costume close up book and just for fun What clothes reveal from Williams burg.  These have digrams of garments and fairly involed instruction on 18th cent construction
   
  The good news, there are many pictures and portraits from life of Ben franklin.
  The bad news, Where and when is the maid from In France?  in Philly, London, That will help point you in some direction (Oh, like the french maid in the Kyoto book, little jacket, big cap.
   
  Welcome to the dark side, the 18th cent....
  Mia in Charlotte

 		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Introduction
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> Welcome. Got pictures?

Thank you! As to pictures, go to
http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm. I've got the bodice and bodice
piece done--now for the sleeves (inner and outer).

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown
http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm


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Subject: Marjorie's pics; was Re: [h-cost] Introduction
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> Thank you! As to pictures, go to
> http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm. I've got the bodice and bodice
> piece done--now for the sleeves (inner and outer).

A hint for others who would like to see the progress of this:  keep 
clicking on the title to go to the next page.

Looking forward to seeing the final product, Marjorie--it looks like 
you're well on your way.

Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: [h-cost] Jewelry plaques?
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Someone within the past few months posted a link to a place that sells
jewelry findings, especially flat "plaques", in filigree-ish styles, etc.
I've lost the link. Please, if you know where I can get these, let me know. 
Thank you, Sharon C.
 

Young lovers seek perfection,
Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together
And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches

 

                    - "How To Make An American Quilt"

 
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Jewelry plaques?


Someone within the past few months posted a link to a place that sells
jewelry findings, especially flat "plaques", in filigree-ish styles, etc.
I've lost the link. Please, if you know where I can get these, let me know.
Thank you, Sharon C.

On list, please!

Dianne


http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:
> Someone within the past few months posted a link to a place that sells
> jewelry findings, especially flat "plaques", in filigree-ish styles, etc.
> I've lost the link. Please, if you know where I can get these, let me know. 

I don't know if this is what you seek, but give it a try:
http://www.natures-gems.com/

Melanie Schuessler

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Angela,

When I contacted them last month, they replied that one could not order 
online, but that you could call their gift shop and order via phone with a 
credit card. See the message below..

I have not done so as yet.

Beth

>Thank you for your enquiry regarding the Clothing Culture catalogue. The
>catalogue is priced £25, and postage to the USA is £14 via airmail, making a
>total of £39.
>
>If you would like to purchase a copy please call the gallery shop with
>credit card details on +44 (0) 161 275 7498. Alternatively, please send a
>cheque for the correct amount made payable to 'University of Manchester' to:
>
>The Whitworth Art Gallery Shop
>University of Manchester
>Oxford Road
>Manchester
>UK
>M15 6ER

At 01:14 PM 8/22/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 11:55:37 -0700
>From: "H_Costume" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD"
>
>How does one purchase a copy? Is it available overseas (I'm in the US)?
>
>angela
>+++++
>Angela F. Lazear


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:27 PM
Subject: GFD and cleavage


> Hello everyone,
> Over the last few weeks I've been trying to fit a Gothic Fitted Dress (she 
> wants to replicate this style of dress 
> http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Woodville,Elizabeth.jpg ) <snip>
I just found a better example of this style for those who aren't familiar 
with the style of 1480s England 
http://www.mbs-brasses.co.uk/pic_lib/Elizabeth_Seyntmour.htm and you can see 
an indication of some cleavage there (although unfortunately she is posed in 
the typical fashion for medieval funereal brasses which gets in the way of 
seeing her neckline properly), and another example from the same site 
http://www.mbs-brasses.co.uk/pic_lib/Isabel_Cheyne.htm

Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>

>I just found a better example of this style for those who aren't familiar
>with the style of 1480s England
>http://www.mbs-brasses.co.uk/pic_lib/Elizabeth_Seyntmour.htm and you can see
>an indication of some cleavage there (although unfortunately she is posed in
>the typical fashion for medieval funereal brasses which gets in the way of
>seeing her neckline properly), and another example from the same site
>http://www.mbs-brasses.co.uk/pic_lib/Isabel_Cheyne.htm

Hadnt seen this site before.  Thanks for helping me waste a good chunk
of the day.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Hello everyone,
Over the last few weeks I've been trying to fit a Gothic Fitted Dress (she 
wants to replicate this style of dress 
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Woodville,Elizabeth.jpg ) at our group's 
weekly meeting (she wants to wear it to an upcoming event in 2 weeks) I've 
got it fitted enough that her bust won't fall down, but she wants cleavage 
and nothing I've tried so far is going to do that. Her bust is relatively 
small and I just can't get the dress to exert the right sort of pressure to 
push her breasts together. I know cleavage isn't necessarily a period 
feature of this style but I thought I would ask here before I gave up and 
told her the dress just won't give her the look she wants.
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques...
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 08:28:13 -0400
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Here you go, Sharon.

Natalie


----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Melanie Schuessler 
  To: Historical Costume 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 11:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques...


  I've used some from these pages before:
  http://www.natures-gems.com/mefi.html
  http://www.natures-gems.com/plgo.html

  They're thin enough that you can bend them if you try, but I have a 
  girdle and carcanet made from some with glass pearls in between, and 
  they've held up for years.

  Melanie Schuessler



  Melody Watts wrote:
  > Hi,
  >     Does anyone know where you can purchase filigree metal plaques for making a Tudor / Elizabethan girdle?
  >    I'd like to be able to glue stones to the plaques to "dress" them up.
  >    I know there are people selling these girdles premade, so they have to be getting them from somewhere.
  >   Thanks
  >   Melody
  > 
  > 
  > ---------------------------------
  > Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
  > _______________________________________________
  > h-costume mailing list
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  > 
  > 



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From: SPaterson <sjpaterson@tru.eastlink.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: GFD and cleavage
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I have a friend who is particularly savvy on this subject and got pics of 
effigies while in Britain - do you want her contact info?

Sarah Paterson

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:15 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: GFD and cleavage


>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
> To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:27 PM
> Subject: GFD and cleavage
>
>
>> Hello everyone,
>> Over the last few weeks I've been trying to fit a Gothic Fitted Dress 
>> (she wants to replicate this style of dress 
>> http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Woodville,Elizabeth.jpg ) <snip>
> I just found a better example of this style for those who aren't familiar 
> with the style of 1480s England 
> http://www.mbs-brasses.co.uk/pic_lib/Elizabeth_Seyntmour.htm and you can 
> see an indication of some cleavage there (although unfortunately she is 
> posed in the typical fashion for medieval funereal brasses which gets in 
> the way of seeing her neckline properly), and another example from the 
> same site http://www.mbs-brasses.co.uk/pic_lib/Isabel_Cheyne.htm
>
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 14:35:25 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD and cleavage
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Well ... at the risk of sounding completely off period here, at
least for Gothic of whatever region she is from ... go the hollywood
route, use double stick tape. (You can actually purchase it off
Victoria Secret's website and store.)

Once you have her breasts taped in place you can alter the cut of
the underarm seams until the fabric is flush with the skin. I do not
remember why I was taught to take in under the arms and not up
front. Robin? Do you have any ideas?

If the tape will not give her the natural cleavage she seeks it is
time to call in the village and add some stuffing. ;)

Now I do remember someone putting a small roll of batting under the
breast line to keep her A cup breast from falling. She had it wired
so that it would act as a shelf bra that is now so popular. By the
same design you can cup the wire on each side to bring her breasts
together.

Chiara

On Tue, August 22, 2006 7:27 am, Elizabeth Walpole said:
> Hello everyone,
> Over the last few weeks I've been trying to fit a Gothic Fitted
> Dress (she
> wants to replicate this style of dress
> http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Woodville,Elizabeth.jpg ) at our
> group's
> weekly meeting (she wants to wear it to an upcoming event in 2
> weeks) I've
> got it fitted enough that her bust won't fall down, but she wants
> cleavage
> and nothing I've tried so far is going to do that. Her bust is
> relatively
> small and I just can't get the dress to exert the right sort of
> pressure to
> push her breasts together. I know cleavage isn't necessarily a
> period
> feature of this style but I thought I would ask here before I gave
> up and
> told her the dress just won't give her the look she wants.
> thanks
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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To order a copy of this book, you need to contact The Whitworth Art Gallery  
at the University of Manchester, directly.  You will also need to send them  
actual money in pounds sterling or arrange with them some other form of payment 
 as, apparently, they do not take credit cards.  I sent 40 pounds (the total  
is 39 pounds) which reached them safely, although they did kvetch a bit about 
 having to return one pound with the book.  I had forgotten to tell them to  
"keep the change".
 
Nancy  

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 
Ingvild  Josefsdatter, OL
Kingdom of Atlantia

"But if by 'Liberal' they mean  someone who looks ahead and not behind, 
someone who welcomes new ideas without  rigid reactions, someone who cares about 
the welfare of the people -- their  health, their housing, their schools, their 
jobs, their civil rights, and their  civil liberties -- someone who believes 
we can break through the stalemate and  suspicions that grip us in our policies 
abroad, if that is what they mean by  'Liberal', then I'm proud to say I'm a 
'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept  1960

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If you take it in across the front, you will be pulling the side seams
forward and end up with them being wonky. Yes, that's a technical term :)

By taking it in under the arms you are pulling from both the front and the
back and thus keep the side seams in their proper position.

Talia

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 2:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD and cleavage

<snippages>

Once you have her breasts taped in place you can alter the cut of
the underarm seams until the fabric is flush with the skin. I do not
remember why I was taught to take in under the arms and not up
front. Robin? Do you have any ideas?

Chiara


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Have you looked at this site?
http://www.cottesimple.com/cottesimple_feminine_silhouette.pdf
De


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] GFD and cleavage
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Oops sent before I was finished. You want the straight front cotehardie

-----Original Message-----
Have you looked at this site?
http://www.cottesimple.com/cottesimple_feminine_silhouette.pdf
De


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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 10:20:28 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD and cleavage
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Just a comment on this subject: sometimes, what someone wants in terms 
of cleavage can't be done.  I did a couple of gowns for a friend of mine 
a few years ago.  Her breasts are fairly small and quite firm and 
hemispherical (ie, no loose flesh at all, no need for a bra). I made 
various adjustments trying to give her a bit more oomph, but eventually, 
I had to conclude that it was simply not possible to give her cleavage.  
There was simply no slack (so to speak) to manipulate-- the firmness 
that meant that her breasts didn't droop at all meant that they couldn't 
really be pushed in _any_ direction.   She had to settle for some slight 
uplift but no cleavage.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 18:54:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD and cleavage
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Just a comment on this subject: sometimes, what someone wants in terms
> of cleavage can't be done.

     This brings up a question — how does the person define "cleavage"?  I
think of it as the visible line when the breasts touch, but others
think of it as some swell of breast above the neckline.

     Is the cleavage "line" fashionable for this time period?  The link
given has the prayer hands obscuring that spot, and the other link
does not show a line.

     So is it possible a bit of swell above the neckline is enough, and
you don't need to go for an actual line?

     -Carol

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 18:10:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD and cleavage 
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This entire thread just dumped into my mailbox; obviously things were hung
up somewhere. I'll add a few thoughts to the various responses.

First: This is on the late side to be called a GFD, and there were a
variety of fitting techniques available at this point. It's important to
note that the dress you see on the surface is an outer garment, and
there's another garment under that, the neckline of which is hidden under
a placket. So the support comes from the underdress, which is not visible
in these pictures. I myself, though, would use pretty much the same
technique that I use for an earlier 15th c. fitted dress, as the
silhouette you're looking for is much the same (although there are other
silhouettes that appear concurrently by this point).

Second: You cited three images: the Woodville portrait (maybe 1465-75?),
the Seyntmour brass (1475), and the Cheyne brass (1485). I would not take
the cleavage in the Seyntmour brass as being particularly realistic;
brasses were made from stock patterns, not from life, and different
schools included particular shorthand elements in the depictions
(sometimes for artistic purposes, sometimes symbolic) for reasons that had
little to do with the look a style would have in wear. The Woodville
portrait is probably most accurate, if very posed; you can see a clearer
view here: http://www.queens.cam.ac.uk/Queens/Misc/Elizabeth.html ...which
shows that the bust expansion is rather below the line of the placket.
Cleavage would be unlikely except for an extremely large-busted woman. The
Cheyne brass is rather later and has a somewhat lower neckline, with more
bosom distending the necklines, but it's uncertain whether this was an
accurate rendition of this style of dress, or the transference of standard
artistic "female" characteristics onto a style that might not look this
way in wear.

That said: It is possible to get cleavage, or a sense thereof, using a GFD
method and a small-busted woman. A lot depends, though, on just how
small-busted she is, and whether the breasts are at all malleable. You say
that you "can't get the dress to exert the right sort of pressure to push
her breasts together." Can you do so with your hands? If so, you can make
the dress do that too. If not, that means there isn't enough mass to
accomplish conventional cleavage (meaning a crease between the breasts).
However, you might be able to emphasize the presence of two independent
"mounds" even if you don't get noticable "cleavage" by a modern
definition. This is what Adele described, regarding her friend who had no
loose tissue to move around.

To do this, you need to exert pressure on the bottom of the breasts. This
effect will be familiar to anyone who's seen me demonstrate this in my
lecture. It involves the depth of the neckline. If your dress covers the
top half of the breasts, you will get a rather flattened "monobosom" that
is, in fact, correct for some eras (e.g. 1380).  Over the ensuing decades,
necklines crept downword, and the pressure on the top of the breasts was
gradually eliminated, allowing the breast mass to shift upward. A
lower-necked style is correspondingly a little tighter on the ribcage and
the lower half of the breasts, to account for the fact that there is less
of the breast mass at the lower levels and to maintain the pressure there.
It helps to keep in mind that the breast itself stays in the same (high)
position; you're just moving the internal stuffing around to change the
profile.

The easy way to see if this will work on your model: Have her lie down. If
you press on the bottom side of her breast, does the top "plump"? If so,
you can make the dress do that. (It should go without saying that you are
fitting lying down -- right? You'll never get the mass positioned
correctly if you fit her standing.)

But wait, there's more. I normally use a straight front seam on my
dresses, for a variety of reasons, including support. (This is
particularly important for large-busted women; the last time I tried a
curved-front seam, I watched my breasts drop to what felt like my knees,
as they took advantage of the off-grain elasticity.) However, I will
sometimes use a curve on the front to help "push up" a very small bosom
that would otherwise be squashed into oblivion. This is *not* the same as
the curve Tasha (at cottesimple) uses, which creates a rather lower
expansion at the bustline. The front curve I use to plump a small-busted
woman goes the other way: It presses in at the ribcage, then flares
outward (as you follow the center front profile upward). This *must* be
used in conjunction with a very low neckline, just over the nipples. The
bust area acts like a funnel, being narrower under the bust and expanding
upward so the widest part of the front curve is at the neckline. The
entire front seam, from neckline to navel, looks like a parenthesis -- (
-- with the narrowest part over the ribcage.  The outermost reach of the
manipulated breast will be above the nipple, at the level of the neckline.

Hope this helps. It's much easier to explain in person!

--Robin

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10608221723010.22691-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD and cleavage 
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 11:55:39 +1000
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<snip>
> First: This is on the late side to be called a GFD, and there were a
> variety of fitting techniques available at this point. It's important to
> note that the dress you see on the surface is an outer garment, and
> there's another garment under that, the neckline of which is hidden under
> a placket. So the support comes from the underdress, which is not visible
> in these pictures.

Yes, I forgot to mention we are fitting the under-dress not the outer dress 
(I think her ambitions to have this and the overdress finished in 2 weeks is 
a little ambitious, but if we get the under-dress done at least she has 
something to wear that's not a discard from the Chandlery (loaner garb for 
those unfamiliar with SCA terminology).

I myself, though, would use pretty much the same
> technique that I use for an earlier 15th c. fitted dress, as the
> silhouette you're looking for is much the same (although there are other
> silhouettes that appear concurrently by this point).
>
> Second: You cited three images: the Woodville portrait (maybe 1465-75?),
> the Seyntmour brass (1475), and the Cheyne brass (1485). <snip>

She's aiming for about 1480, she has a particular brass she wants to 
replicate (which does show cleavage) but I don't know where to find her 
image.
I found another image which shows cleavage from 1479 
http://www.mbs-brasses.co.uk/pic_lib/Sotterley_Brass.htm which is probably a 
better representation of what she wants.

>
> That said: It is possible to get cleavage, or a sense thereof, using a GFD
> method and a small-busted woman. A lot depends, though, on just how
> small-busted she is, and whether the breasts are at all malleable. You say
> that you "can't get the dress to exert the right sort of pressure to push
> her breasts together." Can you do so with your hands? If so, you can make
> the dress do that too. If not, that means there isn't enough mass to
> accomplish conventional cleavage (meaning a crease between the breasts).
> However, you might be able to emphasize the presence of two independent
> "mounds" even if you don't get noticable "cleavage" by a modern
> definition. This is what Adele described, regarding her friend who had no
> loose tissue to move around.

Yes she can bush her breasts together to create cleavage but I can't get the 
dress to push her breasts inwards.

>
> To do this, you need to exert pressure on the bottom of the breasts. This
> effect will be familiar to anyone who's seen me demonstrate this in my
> lecture. It involves the depth of the neckline. If your dress covers the
> top half of the breasts, you will get a rather flattened "monobosom" that
> is, in fact, correct for some eras (e.g. 1380).  Over the ensuing decades,
> necklines crept downword, and the pressure on the top of the breasts was
> gradually eliminated, allowing the breast mass to shift upward. A
> lower-necked style is correspondingly a little tighter on the ribcage and
> the lower half of the breasts, to account for the fact that there is less
> of the breast mass at the lower levels and to maintain the pressure there.
> It helps to keep in mind that the breast itself stays in the same (high)
> position; you're just moving the internal stuffing around to change the
> profile.

The neckline is definitely low, in fact she is in danger falling out 
(somebody else began the fitting process on this dress a year or two ago so 
certain things, like the neckline, are already established and can't be 
changed)

>
> The easy way to see if this will work on your model: Have her lie down. If
> you press on the bottom side of her breast, does the top "plump"? If so,
> you can make the dress do that. (It should go without saying that you are
> fitting lying down -- right? You'll never get the mass positioned
> correctly if you fit her standing.)

Hmm, I might try lying down again, we tried it in the early stages of the 
fitting but couldn't get it firm enough to give her much support, then 
again, now I'm manipulating the side seams rather than the front seam it 
might work better (when I started I tried a curved front seam but then 
decided to go for a straight front seam instead)

>
> But wait, there's more. I normally use a straight front seam on my
> dresses, for a variety of reasons, including support. (This is
> particularly important for large-busted women; the last time I tried a
> curved-front seam, I watched my breasts drop to what felt like my knees,
> as they took advantage of the off-grain elasticity.) However, I will
> sometimes use a curve on the front to help "push up" a very small bosom
> that would otherwise be squashed into oblivion. This is *not* the same as
> the curve Tasha (at cottesimple) uses, which creates a rather lower
> expansion at the bustline. The front curve I use to plump a small-busted
> woman goes the other way: It presses in at the ribcage, then flares
> outward (as you follow the center front profile upward). This *must* be
> used in conjunction with a very low neckline, just over the nipples. The
> bust area acts like a funnel, being narrower under the bust and expanding
> upward so the widest part of the front curve is at the neckline. The
> entire front seam, from neckline to navel, looks like a parenthesis -- (
> -- with the narrowest part over the ribcage.  The outermost reach of the
> manipulated breast will be above the nipple, at the level of the neckline.
>
> Hope this helps. It's much easier to explain in person!
>
> --Robin

Thanks for these tips I'll try them out and see what sort of success we get.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD and cleavage 
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On Wed, 23 Aug 2006, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> Yes she can bush her breasts together to create cleavage but I can't
> get the dress to push her breasts inwards.

Hmm. If it really involves pushing them inward from the sides, you
probably can't do it with the dress (now that I think about it) -- and it
wouldn't be a period figure if you did. If you can get the cleavage by
pressing them both toward the chest wall so that they spread out and meet
in the middle, then the dress could do the same thing. But unless she's
got a fair amount to move around, she won't look like the Sotterley brass!

> The neckline is definitely low, in fact she is in danger falling out
> (somebody else began the fitting process on this dress a year or two
> ago so certain things, like the neckline, are already established and
> can't be changed)

Oh, that's awkward. The way you keep from falling out of this kind of
dress is to position the breasts as high as they go before you determine
the neckline height. Then they can't go any higher, and can't fall out
even if they look like they're going to. If you're trying to keep them
inside a neckline that is too low, you won't be able to position them high
enough to plump by pressing on the bottom. I suspect this is part of your
problem. Adding an extension to the neckline might allow you to do this,
if it is less than an inch and you can match the grainlines. But if this
much is already cut, you may be out of luck; there may be too many pieces
already positioned for you to get the stretch and angles you need.
(Normally the last thing I fit is the neckline/shoulders, because their
placement depends on what you've done with the bust.)

--Robin

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:11 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Jewelry plaques?


Someone within the past few months posted a link to a place that sells
jewelry findings, especially flat "plaques", in filigree-ish styles, etc.
I've lost the link. Please, if you know where I can get these, let me know.
Thank you, Sharon C.

<snip>
was this what you were looking for? 
http://www.fancifulsinc.com/mall/lobby.htm it's got a larger selection than 
the one Melanie posted but the descriptions aren't as detailed.
Elizabeth 

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<002101c6c657$3d137ea0$bcdff5dc@user4712b7d135>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD and cleavage 
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 15:08:45 +1200
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> > The easy way to see if this will work on your model: Have her lie down.
If
> > you press on the bottom side of her breast, does the top "plump"? If so,
> > you can make the dress do that. (It should go without saying that you
are
> > fitting lying down -- right? You'll never get the mass positioned
> > correctly if you fit her standing.)
> Hmm, I might try lying down again, we tried it in the early stages of the
> fitting but couldn't get it firm enough to give her much support, then
> again, now I'm manipulating the side seams rather than the front seam it
> might work better (when I started I tried a curved front seam but then
> decided to go for a straight front seam instead)

Speaking as a very small busted woman, I have to say here the lying down
method really will not help. Especially not if her ribcage is very rounded.
The bosom just winds up shifting around the ribcage to do the complete
opposite of what you want the bust to do. It requires far too much effort to
then lift the bosom as you are working against far more gravity than you
normally would.

The only way I've found to get the breasts close together enough to get any
kind of clevage is to stand up and lean forward, just like you do to settle
into a bra. To get support without flattening out, you also will need to
have a shaped centre front. This way you can easily have the body very well
fitted from waist to under the bust (well a little higher than that to make
the bust settle a little higher and so a little rounder) then ease the
fabric over the bust. This means you don't flatten the bust which is usually
as easy to squish as any other bust, but because of the size will easily
flatten to nothing.
I find it easiest to cut the backs of my bodices/bodies of gowns slightly
narrower than expected specifically for this type of issue. I cannot do most
of the fitting on the side seams as it makes me wider rather than rounder,
which is not the shape disired in any of my chosen periods. By cutting the
back quite narrow I can really pull at the centre font to get a good amount
of tension in the torso (and thus narrow the area below the bust) and then
give a bit of ease over the bust which also helps visually make it look
fuller than the area directly under it.

Something I also as I fit myself, is to wear my best supportive bra, and fit
from waist to under bust, and then take my bra off to fit over the bust.
That way the rest of the bodice/body is fitted enough to focus soleyy on the
one area.

A few years ago I also played a role in a modern play where I had to have a
very defined bosom, preferably with cleavage.* I was only able to acheive it
by a padded bra with extra padding supplied by shoulder pads and the front
of the bra sewn so the underwires touched. Even then, no cleavage. Big bust,
no crease. So I had to use bronzing powder to create it.


Michaela de Bruce
very lucky as most women in my family are overendowed and have all kinds of
back pain.
http://glittersweet.com
*cleavage n. The act of splitting or cleaving. The state of being split or
cleft; a fissure or division.
So it refers to the crease, not just the mound of the breast.



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques...
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 20:41:07 -0700
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Thank you!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Natalie
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 5:28 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques...


Here you go, Sharon.

Natalie


----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Melanie Schuessler 
  To: Historical Costume 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 11:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques...


  I've used some from these pages before:
  http://www.natures-gems.com/mefi.html
  http://www.natures-gems.com/plgo.html

  They're thin enough that you can bend them if you try, but I have a 
  girdle and carcanet made from some with glass pearls in between, and 
  they've held up for years.

  Melanie Schuessler



  Melody Watts wrote:
  > Hi,
  >     Does anyone know where you can purchase filigree metal plaques for
making a Tudor / Elizabethan girdle?
  >    I'd like to be able to glue stones to the plaques to "dress" them up.
  >    I know there are people selling these girdles premade, so they have
to be getting them from somewhere.
  >   Thanks
  >   Melody
  > 
  > 
  > ---------------------------------
  > Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just
2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD and cleavage 
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 23:18:29 -0500
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Though the lie-down-to-fit method works beautifully for full or firm busts, 
especially on average-to-large sizes, there's another technique that seems 
to work well for smaller (or in my case, NOT firm) busts.  Instead of laying 
down for the final fitting around the bust, have the person you're fitting 
lean over so that their ribcage is parallel to the ground.  The bust will 
point straight down.  This pose will make it possible to get a much tighter 
underbust & lower bust fit than lying down, which is absolutely essential 
for small or not-firm busts.  However, this technique will result in a high 
bust, so it may not be the solution for this particular situation!

Given the time period, you have another option that you may not have 
considered.  A good number of illustrations of the time show women wearing 
supportive gowns that lace up the front, but don't actually lace all the way 
shut; there's a gap between ~1.5 and ~5 inches.  The wider gaps do have the 
effect of pushing the breasts together, and at least on me, it produces 
rather dramatic cleavage, unlike my other up-but-not-together supportive 
dresses, all of which lace fully shut. (It also has the advantage of being 
adjustable for someone with a yo-yo dieting problem!)

When worn under a V-necked dress, the laced-up gap would be concealed with a 
piece; a decorated piece would give the exact same look as in the Elizabeth 
Woodville painting.

-E House

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Jewelry plaques?
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Thank you!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 7:38 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jewelry plaques?



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:11 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Jewelry plaques?


Someone within the past few months posted a link to a place that sells
jewelry findings, especially flat "plaques", in filigree-ish styles, etc.
I've lost the link. Please, if you know where I can get these, let me know.
Thank you, Sharon C.

<snip>
was this what you were looking for? 
http://www.fancifulsinc.com/mall/lobby.htm it's got a larger selection than 
the one Melanie posted but the descriptions aren't as detailed. Elizabeth 

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Again I give the offer of someone who is small breasted and wears this:
http://www.freewebs.com/bessdarnley/mistressisobelmowbray.htm
she can be reached at georginaisobel@yahoo.ca

Sarah Paterson
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "SPaterson" <sjpaterson@tru.eastlink.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 8:24 PM
Subject: [h-cost] late 15th c English under dress & dress


> Again I give the offer of someone who is small breasted and wears this:
> http://www.freewebs.com/bessdarnley/mistressisobelmowbray.htm
> she can be reached at georginaisobel@yahoo.ca
>
> Sarah Paterson

If your friend is happy to be contacted I'll pass on this info to the lady 
being fitted, her documentation may come in handy another time but right now 
there's not much time to change the method we're using.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD and cleavage 
In-Reply-To: <005a01c6c661$75ffbee0$0301010a@michaela>
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On Wed, 23 Aug 2006, michaela wrote:

> Speaking as a very small busted woman, I have to say here the lying
> down method really will not help.

It has worked when I've done it, but clearly there are other methods, as
you and Elena have indicated. I should not have implied that there's just
one way -- when I teach I try to underscore that people need to
experiment. I would guess also that a person's success with any one method
depends on a lot of other factors, such as the sequence in which you do
various parts of the fitting, the exact angles of the seams and neckline,
the fabric, etc., not to mention the particular silhouette you're aiming
for.  (There's a *lot* of variation in silhouette over the 100-plus years
the style was worn, so techniques must have varied in period as well.)  I
haven't had to try a leaning-forward method yet, but I may at some point
find a woman whose particular characteristics require it, so I'm glad to
hear other people's descriptions. I'm still encountering new figure issues
and having to determine solutions on a case-by-case basis, and you'd think
after this many dresses I'd have seen them all.

I should also note that when I made my first fitted dress (for myself) I
was a small A cup. I grew (a lot), but I'm still using much the same
method (though with many improvements to better emulate period practice,
e.g. use of lining).

--Robin


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My copy of the Tudor Tailor arrived on my desk from Amazon.com this
morning. Only have time for a short look, but it is stunning with scale
patterns that are easy to read and clear, lovely pics of comtempory
illustrations, finished and underconstruction garments from the skin out
for not just the rich, but for working class and merchant class as well.
The section on headwear and how it make it alone is worth the price of
the book.

Also included is a guide to choosing materials, a color sample of modern
yarns dyed in reproduced dyes available in the 16th century.

A book well worth waiting for.

Cindy Abel
 

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Subject: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
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Hi guys, 
 
Thanks for all the input on my question about Heidi. (I know this is late, but I'm a little behind on my e-mail.) I really appreciated the suggestion of Kate Greenaway -- I've been collecting reprints of classic children's book illustrators, just because I like the art, but it didn't occur to me to check there for inspiration. 
 
Since someone mentioned Aesthetic dress, I went looking at pictures, and I think I really like it! Can anyone recommend a good book with lots of pictures? Or, failing that, some detailed websites?
 
Thanks!
Tea Rose
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
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On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 tearoses@aol.com wrote:

> Since someone mentioned Aesthetic dress, I went looking at pictures,
> and I think I really like it! Can anyone recommend a good book with
> lots of pictures? Or, failing that, some detailed websites?

None of these are loaded with pictures, but all are useful:

Book:

	Stella Mary Newton, Health, Art & Reason: Dress reformers of the
19th century (London: John Murray, 1974). This is the comprehensive study
of the Rational/Artistic/Aesthetic dress movement. Follow her footnotes
for more sources.


Two articles from the journal _Costume_:

	Shonfield, Zuzanna, "Miss Marshall and the Cimabue Browns,"
Costume, No. 13 (1979), pp. 62-72.

	Ormond, Leonee, "Female Costume in the Aesthetic Movement of the
1870 and 1880s," Costume, No. 2, 33-38; reprinted in combined Nos. 1-2,
pp. 47-52.


Web sites (here's where you'll find pictures!):

	http://costume.osu.edu/Reforming_Fashion/reformdress.htm

	http://web.nwe.ufl.edu/~kchancey/corsetaesthetic.html

	http://www.fashion-era.com/rational_dress.htm

	http://www.fashion-era.com/aesthetics.htm

There's also some overlap with the Pre-Raphaelites, and you can find some
pictures of people like Jane Morris and Oscar Wilde in artistic dress if
you spend enough time looking through books about the lives of these
people.

Fashion magazines of the period, such as Harper's, would be another good
source, but I haven't followed the chain that far.

--Robin

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] question about purse
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Hello,
I would like to ask your oppoinions about a projekt i want to make.
Last year i made this purse:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries26.htm
Can i use this design of the purse (with another embroidery) for 18th 
century reenacting?
I found this purse on V&A:
http://tinyurl.co.uk/kd17
Wich is similar with a lit.
Any responses greatfully apreciated.

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I seem to remember (long ago) someone on the list
posted a website for commercial patterns for an
Aesthetic tea dress or something. Would anyone happen
to know of such a thing?

Maggie

--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

> 
> On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > Since someone mentioned Aesthetic dress, I went
> looking at pictures,
> > and I think I really like it! Can anyone recommend
> a good book with
> > lots of pictures? Or, failing that, some detailed
> websites?
> 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
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On Thu, 24 Aug 2006, MaggiRos wrote:

> I seem to remember (long ago) someone on the list posted a website for
> commercial patterns for an Aesthetic tea dress or something. Would
> anyone happen to know of such a thing?

I just mentioned Folkwear, but I was wrong. The one I was thinking about
was from La Mode Bagatelle:

http://www.ravenrook.com/bagatelle/art.jsp
http://www.sewingcentral.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?page=lmb002.html&cart_id=7858735_12881
...and probably other vendors too.

Some reviews here, bottom of page:

http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/lmb.htm

No, I've never done this period. I just love looking at it.

IIRC, some of the St. Louis Costume Guild people (including a few on this
list?) made artistic dresses for the most recent CostumeCon, but I don't
know which pattern, if any, they used.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
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On Thu, 24 Aug 2006, MaggiRos wrote:

> I seem to remember (long ago) someone on the list posted a website for
> commercial patterns for an Aesthetic tea dress or something. Would
> anyone happen to know of such a thing?

I think Folkwear has one.

--Robin

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> On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 tearoses@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Since someone mentioned Aesthetic dress, I went looking at pictures,
> > and I think I really like it! Can anyone recommend a good book with
> > lots of pictures? Or, failing that, some detailed websites?

The Tate Museum, London is chock full of that terrific stuff. I would
guess you can noodle around the website or any of the other art-URLs.
Or find someone with the museum catalog.  Try "Pre-Raphaelite
Brotherhood" and/or "Pre-Raphelite Brotherhood" in google images.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 589
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On Thu, 24 Aug 2006, Cin wrote:

> > On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > Since someone mentioned Aesthetic dress, I went looking at pictures,
> > > and I think I really like it! Can anyone recommend a good book with
> > > lots of pictures? Or, failing that, some detailed websites?
> 
> The Tate Museum, London is chock full of that terrific stuff. I would
> guess you can noodle around the website or any of the other art-URLs.
> Or find someone with the museum catalog.  Try "Pre-Raphaelite
> Brotherhood" and/or "Pre-Raphelite Brotherhood" in google images.

It should be noted that although the Pre-Raphaelite crowd (for the most
part) championed artistic/aesthetic dress, what appeared in their
*paintings* were usually attempts at period costume for whatever they were
depicting (usually wrong by our standards, but pretty good given the
available reference material). That's not the same thing as what the
Aesthetes were wearing.

However, some photographs and drawings of members of the Brotherhood,
their wives and lovers, and their friends show them in artistic dress, and
written accounts describe them.

Other useful written sources from the period include Gilbert & Sullivan's
operetta "Patience," which spoofs the Aesthetes (and accounts from that
time about the staging and background of the operetta); Oscar Wilde's
essay "The Relation of Dress to Art" (1885, reprinted in various
collections of his work); and the writings of dress reformer (and Chaucer
scholar!) Mary Eliza Haweis, particularly her books The Art of Beauty
(1878) and The Art of Dress (1879). There's also a nice description of a
girl's dress-reform outfit in Louisa May Alcott's "Eight Cousins" (I think
that's the right one) that someone on this list sent me a few years ago
when we were talking about this.

--Robin



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>Fashion magazines of the period, such as Harper's, would be another good
>source, but I haven't followed the chain that far.

I'd say humor and satire magazines, like Punch, would have more coverage of 
Aesthetic-style clothing than regular fashion magazines.  The Aesthetics 
weren't high fashion, they were counter-culture, the Beatniks, Hippies, and 
Punks of their day.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
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On Thu, 24 Aug 2006, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> I'd say humor and satire magazines, like Punch, would have more
> coverage of Aesthetic-style clothing than regular fashion magazines.  
> The Aesthetics weren't high fashion, they were counter-culture, the
> Beatniks, Hippies, and Punks of their day.

The Aesthetics themselves, yes -- they were not quite respectable, and
some of them were considered scandalous. But just as fashion-conscious
people in the 1960s and 70s adopted tie-dye and denims from the hippies,
mainstream 19th century designers adopted a version of the Aesthetic look
and tidied it up for fashionable wear.  In 1884, a high-fashion London
store, Liberty, opened a special department called the Artistic and
Historic Costume Studio. This became the top shopping spot of the
Aesthetic set, but it also got plenty of business selling clothes with
"artistic" or "historical" elements to more conventional shoppers. Stella
Mary Newton's book has some good information on this, including some
pictures of fashion plates of artistic dress from Harper's and a picture
of an extant artistic dress from Liberty.

Punch did have good cartoons about the Aesthetes, though.

--Robin

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] question about purse
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2006 01:06:34 -0500
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I was looking for something else and found these.

1780
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_240.htm

1750
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_204.htm

1730
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_188.htm

1762
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_156.htm

This is not a purse but thought you might be interested. 1790 -1805
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_116.htm

De
-----Original Message-----
Hello,
I would like to ask your oppoinions about a projekt i want to make.
Last year i made this purse:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries26.htm
Can i use this design of the purse (with another embroidery) for 18th 
century reenacting?
I found this purse on V&A:
http://tinyurl.co.uk/kd17
Wich is similar with a lit.
Any responses greatfully apreciated.

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
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<Can anyone recommend a good book with
> lots of pictures? Or, failing that, some detailed websites?>

Karin Larsson, the wife of Swedish artist Carl Larsson, was known for her 
own take on Aesthetic-style dresses, and her husband often painted her in 
her designs.

The book _Carl and Karin Larsson: Creators of the Swedish Style_ has 
paintings and photos of her, as well as mention of her style.

Hope this helps,

Caryn


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From: "Karen Heim" <axejudge@accessus.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
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They used that pattern.  However, I don't believe it is 
still available.

Karen

On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 16:41:07 -0500 (CDT)
  Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> 
> On Thu, 24 Aug 2006, MaggiRos wrote:
> 
>> I seem to remember (long ago) someone on the list posted 
>>a website for
>> commercial patterns for an Aesthetic tea dress or 
>>something. Would
>> anyone happen to know of such a thing?
> 
> I just mentioned Folkwear, but I was wrong. The one I 
>was thinking about
> was from La Mode Bagatelle:
> 
> http://www.ravenrook.com/bagatelle/art.jsp
> http://www.sewingcentral.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?page=lmb002.html&cart_id=7858735_12881
> ...and probably other vendors too.
> 
> Some reviews here, bottom of page:
> 
> http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/lmb.htm
> 
> No, I've never done this period. I just love looking at 
>it.
> 
> IIRC, some of the St. Louis Costume Guild people 
>(including a few on this
> list?) made artistic dresses for the most recent 
>CostumeCon, but I don't
> know which pattern, if any, they used.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPOEODHDAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about purse
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2006 15:24:01 +0200
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Hi De
Thanks for your response, it is nice to have the example with the frame 
hinge and gussets in the sides, i think i can make this, with a good 
consious.

Many thanks for the lovely examples.........

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 8:06 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] question about purse


>I was looking for something else and found these.
>
> 1780
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_240.htm
>
> 1750
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_204.htm
>
> 1730
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_188.htm
>
> 1762
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_156.htm
>
> This is not a purse but thought you might be interested. 1790 -1805
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_116.htm
>
> De
> -----Original Message-----
> Hello,
> I would like to ask your oppoinions about a projekt i want to make.
> Last year i made this purse:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries26.htm
> Can i use this design of the purse (with another embroidery) for 18th
> century reenacting?
> I found this purse on V&A:
> http://tinyurl.co.uk/kd17
> Wich is similar with a lit.
> Any responses greatfully apreciated.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
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	<00aa01c6c830$e625f330$c6e49c04@SobelWriting>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2006 15:42:56 +0200
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Hi
Yeah thats right, and also the danish female artist called Anna Anker was 
wearing these dresses. I believe there is a portrait that her husband made 
of her, his name was Michael Anker. But if these are online i dont have a 
clue about.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Caryn Sobel" <carynsobel@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress


> <Can anyone recommend a good book with
>> lots of pictures? Or, failing that, some detailed websites?>
>
> Karin Larsson, the wife of Swedish artist Carl Larsson, was known for her 
> own take on Aesthetic-style dresses, and her husband often painted her in 
> her designs.
>
> The book _Carl and Karin Larsson: Creators of the Swedish Style_ has 
> paintings and photos of her, as well as mention of her style.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Caryn
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
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Bjarne said:

<Yeah thats right, and also the danish female artist called Anna Anker was
wearing these dresses>

Thanks, Bjarne,I didn't know about the Ankers. I found a print at Art.com of 
Anna Anker (Ancher, by their spelling) by Michael. The link is very long, 
but if you go to www.art.com and put in Michael Anker, the portrait is right 
there.

It's a great sunny portrait on a very gray, rainy day here, too.

Caryn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
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If you are speaking of an Empire gown sort of dress (I can't remember the
period for this dress, but the Kate Greenway children et al are attired in
Empire gowns with the boys in breeches, etc), the pattern by Folkwear has,
to my taste, excessive gathers in the bodice. I prefer a pattern with a
smoother bodice (picky, I know) where the gathers are present but not
obvious. I highly recommend the patterns found in the _Patterns of History_
books by Janet Arnold. They are not commercial patterns, per se, but are not
difficult to follow.

Marjorie

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown
http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress


>
> On Thu, 24 Aug 2006, MaggiRos wrote:
>
> > I seem to remember (long ago) someone on the list posted a website for
> > commercial patterns for an Aesthetic tea dress or something. Would
> > anyone happen to know of such a thing?
>
> I think Folkwear has one.
>
> --Robin
>
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Hi all. I was wondering if I could ask all you professionals out there
for some advice. I have a friend who is starting to make high-quality SCA
garb for sale, and is interested in doing custom work. She was wondering
about the wording on contracts, whether these be pay for garment or
barter for garment. Any suggestions that I could share with her?

thanks!
Arlys
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: aesthetic dress
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Lovely as it may seem now, aesthetic dress was considered strange and
subversive at the time. Gilbert and Sullivan had a great show (I have never
seen it, unfortunately) about the aesthetic movement -- "Patience; or,
Bunthorne's Bride." The heroine is a young girl who thinks she can't be in
love unless she's suffering, so she ignores the nice young man who loves her
in favor of the Oscar Wilde-ish poet whom she can't stand. Whenever she's
around him, she suffers, so she thinks she must be in love. During the
operetta, all the young soldiers give up their uniforms for velvet suits and
lilies, to catch the women who are swooning over poets.

"When I Go Out the Door" is the final song describing the poet and the hero.
The poet is:

"A most intense young man,
A soulful-eyed young man,
An ultra-poetical, super-aesthetical,
Out-of-the-way young man!

and 

"A pallid and thin young man,
A haggard and lank young man,
A greenery-yallery, Grosvenor Gallery,
Foot-in-the-grave young man!"

Of course, the aesthetic folks didn't see themselves that way.

There's also a great cartoon by G.K. Chesterton called "Vision in Bedford
Park." I can't find it online, unfortunately, but it's in the edition of
"The Man Who Was Thursday" published by Ignatius and annotated by Martin
Gardner. It shows a "pallid and thin" man carrying a lily and a woman in a
loose, aesthetic gown staring in shock at the shadow of a man in a
respectable coat, carrying a prayer book. The caption is "Bedford Parkers
see a Dreadful Vision of the Future: an old acquaintance going to Church."
Bedford Park was an artsy area of London where poets and the like hung out,
and Chesterton was an old "Bedford Parker" himself, before his famous
conversion, after which he preferred common sense and religious orthodoxy to
aesthetic movements, atheism, and intellectual fads. But his associating
aesthetic dress to these things gives you an idea of the way it was
regarded.

Gail Finke

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Does anyone know when duvetyn/duvetine came into use? I've searched on the internet but couldn't find any info about duvetyn and its use in the past.
  Thanks,
   
  Zuzana

 		
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Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> Does anyone know when duvetyn/duvetine came into use? I've searched on the internet but couldn't find any info about duvetyn and its use in the past.
>   Thanks,
>    

Never heard the word. What do you use it for?



Dawn



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	Sat, 26 Aug 2006 19:44:44 PDT
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 19:44:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] duvetyn
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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http://www.bartleby.com/61/93/D0439300.html

SYLLABICATION: du·ve·tyn 
PRONUNCIATION:   dv-tn, dy-, dv-tn, dy- 
VARIANT FORMS: also du·ve·tyne 
NOUN: A soft, short-napped fabric with a twill weave,
made of wool, cotton, rayon, or silk.  
ETYMOLOGY: French duvetine, from duvet, down. See
duvet.  

It sucks up light (non-reflective) and holds a very
deep black ciolor, so it's used as a drape in theatre
for projection curtains, cycs, etc. It also makes up
into a very serviceable working woman's doublet. :)

MW11 puts the first use of the word at 1913.

MaggiRos


--- Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:

> Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> 
> > Does anyone know when duvetyn/duvetine came into
> use? I've searched on the internet but couldn't find
> any info about duvetyn and its use in the past.
> >   Thanks,
> >    
> 
> Never heard the word. What do you use it for?
> 
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Does anyone have any comments or observations on this
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Which one is it? I tend not to remember them as "#21," or whatever, but as
the houp one, or the ItalianRen one, etc....
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "MaggiRos" <maggiros@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2006 8:47 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21


> Does anyone have any comments or observations on this
> pattern? I'm looking at view I.
>
> MaggiRos
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Are there any commercial patterns available online?

MaggiRos

--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

> 
> On Thu, 24 Aug 2006, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> > I'd say humor and satire magazines, like Punch,
> would have more
> > coverage of Aesthetic-style clothing than regular
> fashion magazines.  
> > The Aesthetics weren't high fashion, they were
> counter-culture, the
> > Beatniks, Hippies, and Punks of their day.
> 
> The Aesthetics themselves, yes -- they were not
> quite respectable, and
> some of them were considered scandalous. But just as
> fashion-conscious
> people in the 1960s and 70s adopted tie-dye and
> denims from the hippies,
> mainstream 19th century designers adopted a version
> of the Aesthetic look
> and tidied it up for fashionable wear.  In 1884, a
> high-fashion London
> store, Liberty, opened a special department called
> the Artistic and
> Historic Costume Studio. This became the top
> shopping spot of the
> Aesthetic set, but it also got plenty of business
> selling clothes with
> "artistic" or "historical" elements to more
> conventional shoppers. Stella
> Mary Newton's book has some good information on
> this, including some
> pictures of fashion plates of artistic dress from
> Harper's and a picture
> of an extant artistic dress from Liberty.
> 
> Punch did have good cartoons about the Aesthetes,
> though.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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In a message dated 8/26/2006 10:19:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

Never  heard the word. What do you use it for?



******************
 
For blocking out light....in theatre and film. And it does it very well  too. 
The fabric is thick and felted. It doesn't have a nap. It doesn't ravel  much 
either if at all. It's kinda like 18th or 19th century wool. We  even made 
some frock coats out of some left over from the scene dept. once.  It's not wool 
though, but made of some synthetic.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Aesthetic dress
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  But just as
>>fashion-conscious
>>people in the 1960s and 70s adopted tie-dye and
>>denims from the hippies,
>>mainstream 19th century designers adopted a version
>>of the Aesthetic look
>>and tidied it up for fashionable wear.  

The less extreme Aesthetic look appealed to middle-class women on a 
budget, because it had a number of solid advantages.  Less expensive 
materials could be used, jewelry tended to be things like amber instead 
of diamonds, you could have a skimpier style that used less material, 
and you could have a quasi-historic style that didn't have to be updated 
every few months to keep up with fashion.

Also, the Aesthetic look celebrated some physical characteristics, such 
as red hair, and a square jaw on a woman, that were commonly considered 
downright ugly in mainstream fashion. Also, the "muddy" and 
"greenery-yallery" Aesthetic colors looked better on some people than 
fashionable bright colors.

There was also an intellectual, "arty" aspect to the look that appealed 
to people who liked to be thought artistic, even though they had no 
intention of becoming professional artists.  And there was some 
crossover with the dress reform movement, which also had moderate as 
well as extremist adherents. For example, the Aesthetic look often 
either omitted the corset or used a modified light corset. (I put a 
pattern for one, from a how-to guide to "moderate" Aesthetic dress, in 
the first volume of _Fashions of the Gilded Age_.)

The Aesthetic look lent elements to mainstream fashion--over time it 
influenced colors, for one thing--but the extreme Aesthetic look seldom 
appeared in fashionable magazines. I do have some original how-to 
directions (not a pattern) for reproducing a dress from a production 
(one of many) of _Patience_, from a mainstream fashionable magazine.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Which one is it? I tend not to remember them as "#21," or whatever, but as
> the houp one, or the ItalianRen one, etc....
> 
> 
>>Does anyone have any comments or observations on this
>>pattern? I'm looking at view I.
>>

"14th and 15th century cotehardies"

I have it (and the male pattern) but haven't used them yet.



Dawn


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Thanks, Gail -- but darn it, I even have a copy of "The Man Who Was  
Thursday," but no illustrations. Oh well. 
 
Thanks for all your input, guys, I really enjoy this kind of discussion.  
That tea dress pattern is totally yummy! And I'm going to have some fun looking  
up all those links and reading them. 
 
Tea Rose,  
who likes to imagine she bears a resemblance to that redhead in  all those 
Waterhouse paintings.

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It's the 14th & 15th century cotehardies & "sideless
surcoates" one. All I want to create is the blue dress
from June in the Duke of Berry's book of hours. I've
been 16th century for so long, I hardly know where to
begin with a cotehardie. I expect to look frumpy and
middle-aged in any case. Just curious how the pattern
works, how true to size it might be, how accurate to
period, and so on. Being MM, I don't expect much from
the directions.

I presume that anyone with either rapturously fond or
rabidly contrary opinions would know the pattern both
by name and number. :-)


MaggiRos

--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:

> Which one is it? I tend not to remember them as
> "#21," or whatever, but as
> the houp one, or the ItalianRen one, etc....
> --Sue
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "MaggiRos" <maggiros@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2006 8:47 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21
> 
> 
> > Does anyone have any comments or observations on
> this
> > pattern? I'm looking at view I.
> >
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Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 00:30:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10608241636450.30499-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
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Ah yes. I've seen this before and apparently lost the
links. Thank you!

MaggiRos

--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

> 
> On Thu, 24 Aug 2006, MaggiRos wrote:
> 
> > I seem to remember (long ago) someone on the list
> posted a website for
> > commercial patterns for an Aesthetic tea dress or
> something. Would
> > anyone happen to know of such a thing?
> 
> I just mentioned Folkwear, but I was wrong. The one
> I was thinking about
> was from La Mode Bagatelle:
> 
> http://www.ravenrook.com/bagatelle/art.jsp
>
http://www.sewingcentral.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?page=lmb002.html&cart_id=7858735_12881
> ...and probably other vendors too.
> 
> Some reviews here, bottom of page:
> 
> http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/lmb.htm
> 
> No, I've never done this period. I just love looking
> at it.
> 
> IIRC, some of the St. Louis Costume Guild people
> (including a few on this
> list?) made artistic dresses for the most recent
> CostumeCon, but I don't
> know which pattern, if any, they used.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060826213606.80216.qmail@web37513.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] duvetyn
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 10:36:00 +0200
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Hi Zuzanna,
My bobbin lace pillow is covered with a moss green wool duvetine. It is very 
durable and yeat very soft. It had this cover when i baught it as new.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2006 11:36 PM
Subject: [h-cost] duvetyn


> Does anyone know when duvetyn/duvetine came into use? I've searched on the 
> internet but couldn't find any info about duvetyn and its use in the past.
>  Thanks,
>
>  Zuzana
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com.  Check it out.
> _______________________________________________
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21
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Did you look here?
  http://www.mediaevalmisc.com/pp21-ex.htm
  There are some photos of the finished garments, which give a much better idea about the patterns rather than the pictures. 
   
  Zuzana


 				
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] duvetyn
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I was asking because in my country this is a very popular sort of fabric used by re-enactors (whose knowledge of historical costumes is, mostly, very poor). I've never seen it mentioned in any book on costumes, so I was wondering where does its popularity come from. The people use it mostly for heavy garments like cloaks, but now it's being used even for the leg wear... Maybe it's so popular because there's simply no other kind of fabric of natural material (cotton) which provides warmth on the market, except for velvet. 

 		
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In a message dated 8/26/2006 11:01:47 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

For  blocking out light....in theatre and film. And it does it very well  
too.  
The fabric is thick and felted. It doesn't have a nap. It doesn't  ravel  
much 
either if at all. It's kinda like 18th or 19th century  wool. We  even made 
some frock coats out of some left over from the  scene dept. once.  It's not 
wool 
though, but made of some  synthetic.



Actually, the duvetyn made for theatre drapes is cotton and  fireproofed.  It 
is relatively inexpensive, given what it is, and  comes in incredible widths. 
 (118" wide at Dazians and in two  thicknesses.  And I suspect the original 
product (lost in the mists of  time) was made of wool and used for outer 
garments???  It doesn't have a  nap because it is brushed, like flannel.  And in the 
theatre the spelling  is Duvateen.  I would caution against using it for 
clothing next to the  body, given the fireproofing which can irritate and dry the 
skin.  Most  fireproofing has salt in it.  However, you could wash it and 
remove most of  the fireproofing, allowing for shrinkage.  And there now appears 
to be a  synthetic version of it, although I have not experienced it.  
 
Cheryl Odom, College of Santa Fe
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Duvateen
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Interesting that duvateen is used in theatre in America. My husband, 
senior stage technician at the Barbican, in London, has never heard 
of it. They use black wool serge, inherently fireproof, although it 
is also proofed. Also they use velveteen occasionally.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 10:00:52 -0600
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Status: RO

I used their patterns a lot, when I was first starting out in the SCA, but
that was many (mumblety) years ago, so I've forgotten some of the specifics.
I settled into 16th century England rather firmly after that, although in
the last few years, I've been dabbling with Early Medieval stuff.
As it turns out, my very first SCA garb was made using the MM cotehardie
pattern.  Sleeves fit okay, from what I recall.  I had serious problems with
the neckline, which was sort of scooped.  The first time I put the dress on,
the neckline widened itself into sort of a boat shape, and the whole gown
dropped to the floor.  We had to make all kinds of weird tucks and
adjustments for it to be usable, and even then, I still had to adhere it to
my bra straps (used woven tape and snaps).  Now, granted, we were
inexperienced and the fabric was cotton, but even so....
I also, over the years of use, had issues with their sizing.  It always
seemed to me that the larger the size you were using, the longer they made
the damned things.  My ItalianRen gown had a skirt more than 18" longer than
necessary.
I did make at least one or two of the surcoats from the same MM pattern.
The biggest issue I remember with those is that the scoops/open areas on the
sides were waaaay too large, and a bit low, and had the very unfortunate
habit of emphasizing my least favorite part of my body (tummy).
I never had the problem with their pattern instructions that some people
have, and I did like their research--at the time, they were quite the thing,
this being pre-internet, and pre-most of the wonderful stuff that's come out
since.  And I did like the variety of styles and patterns available,
although I despised the practice of printing one view right on top of
another's pattern pieces (within the same packet), which meant if you wanted
to make more than one style from the same envelope, you were stuck copying
your pieces or something.  So it's a mixed bag.....If I were you, and
thinking of using the pattern, I'd use it with caution, but not completely
discount it.  Watch for length, fitting, reinforce neckline edges, consider
lining it at least to one's hips, etc.
There are other patterns out there, I believe, although I haven't used them
(I've got a copy of the Simplicity one, somewhere), and there are a lot of
websites with wonderful research done on these styles, so if I were doing my
first one fitted gown today, I'd probably avoid the patterns altogether, and
use one of the fitting methods (Robin's or Tasha's, or some of the other
options I've seen and bookmarked, and of course can't remember right now
when it would be very helpful and cool if I could...sigh)
--Sue, off in search of more memory-enhancing coffee ;o)
----- Original Message -----
From: "MaggiRos" <maggiros@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 1:27 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21


> It's the 14th & 15th century cotehardies & "sideless
> surcoates" one. All I want to create is the blue dress
> from June in the Duke of Berry's book of hours. I've
> been 16th century for so long, I hardly know where to
> begin with a cotehardie. I expect to look frumpy and
> middle-aged in any case. Just curious how the pattern
> works, how true to size it might be, how accurate to
> period, and so on. Being MM, I don't expect much from
> the directions.
>
> I presume that anyone with either rapturously fond or
> rabidly contrary opinions would know the pattern both
> by name and number. :-)


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Status: RO

All I want to create is the blue dress
from June in the Duke of Berry's book of hours. 

I would not expect that look from this pattern.  The body isn't close-fitting enough and the skirts are too skimpy.  I  I made it about 13 years ago and thought it made me look "frumpy and middle-aged" then.  (On the other hand, I just washed it again last night - it is very useful for wearing during things like camp set-up, inclement weather...)  I have had much better luck getting that look with mundane patterns with princess seams.

Janet
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	<001201c6c9f1$fa6bade0$6fbfa6d8@pavilion>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 13:13:19 -0400
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Status: RO

 It always
seemed to me that the larger the size you were using, the longer they made
the damned things.  My ItalianRen gown had a skirt more than 18" longer than
necessary.

The woman who designed these patterns is quite tall so they are designed for her idea of a normal body.

Janet
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Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 13:31:55 -0400
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21
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Quoting JAMES OGILVIE <bear_janet@msn.com>:

>  It always
> seemed to me that the larger the size you were using, the longer they made
> the damned things.  My ItalianRen gown had a skirt more than 18" longer than
> necessary.
>
> The woman who designed these patterns is quite tall so they are   
> designed for her idea of a normal body.
>

Who designed the MM patterns, do we know?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I expect to need to raise the waist anyway, so the
extra length should be useful. That way I can keep the
width-at-hem instead of cutting it off and making a
narrower skirt. 

But yes, she does seem to add 2" length for every
dress size. I got chubbier, not taller! :)

I really appreciate all the input on this pattern. I'd
love to use Robin's method, but I'm doing this mainly
alone and her very clever method requires more help
than I want to rely on. Good thing there's no hard
deadline.

MaggiRos

--- JAMES OGILVIE <bear_janet@msn.com> wrote:

>  It always
> seemed to me that the larger the size you were
> using, the longer they made
> the damned things.  My ItalianRen gown had a skirt
> more than 18" longer than
> necessary.
> 
> The woman who designed these patterns is quite tall
> so they are designed for her idea of a normal body.
> 
> Janet
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21
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Status: RO

Coryn Weigel? I think?

--- "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com> wrote:

> Quoting JAMES OGILVIE <bear_janet@msn.com>:
> 
> >  It always
> > seemed to me that the larger the size you were
> using, the longer they made
> > the damned things.  My ItalianRen gown had a skirt
> more than 18" longer than
> > necessary.
> >
> > The woman who designed these patterns is quite
> tall so they are   
> > designed for her idea of a normal body.
> >
> 
> Who designed the MM patterns, do we know?
> 
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Lund, Sweden
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Hey, list folks, in particular the Swedish contingent,
I have a fiance going to Lund, Sweden for a brief business trip.
Could you recommend any local museums or castles with excellent early
costume collections? My clever plan is to send him for the catalog.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Teena Robertson <childishwhims@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I've been reading most of the posts on this subject and I have to agree on the comments about the sizing on the MM patterns. I used the discontinued Tudor Court pattern for my wedding 9yrs ago and my mother and I had to do ALOT of adjustment to it the whole time we were making it. So good luck and please send pictures when you do make it.
     Teena

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
  I used their patterns a lot, when I was first starting out in the SCA, but
that was many (mumblety) years ago, so I've forgotten some of the specifics.
I settled into 16th century England rather firmly after that, although in
the last few years, I've been dabbling with Early Medieval stuff.
As it turns out, my very first SCA garb was made using the MM cotehardie
pattern. Sleeves fit okay, from what I recall. I had serious problems with
the neckline, which was sort of scooped. The first time I put the dress on,
the neckline widened itself into sort of a boat shape, and the whole gown
dropped to the floor. We had to make all kinds of weird tucks and
adjustments for it to be usable, and even then, I still had to adhere it to
my bra straps (used woven tape and snaps). Now, granted, we were
inexperienced and the fabric was cotton, but even so....
I also, over the years of use, had issues with their sizing. It always
seemed to me that the larger the size you were using, the longer they made
the damned things. My ItalianRen gown had a skirt more than 18" longer than
necessary.
I did make at least one or two of the surcoats from the same MM pattern.
The biggest issue I remember with those is that the scoops/open areas on the
sides were waaaay too large, and a bit low, and had the very unfortunate
habit of emphasizing my least favorite part of my body (tummy).
I never had the problem with their pattern instructions that some people
have, and I did like their research--at the time, they were quite the thing,
this being pre-internet, and pre-most of the wonderful stuff that's come out
since. And I did like the variety of styles and patterns available,
although I despised the practice of printing one view right on top of
another's pattern pieces (within the same packet), which meant if you wanted
to make more than one style from the same envelope, you were stuck copying
your pieces or something. So it's a mixed bag.....If I were you, and
thinking of using the pattern, I'd use it with caution, but not completely
discount it. Watch for length, fitting, reinforce neckline edges, consider
lining it at least to one's hips, etc.
There are other patterns out there, I believe, although I haven't used them
(I've got a copy of the Simplicity one, somewhere), and there are a lot of
websites with wonderful research done on these styles, so if I were doing my
first one fitted gown today, I'd probably avoid the patterns altogether, and
use one of the fitting methods (Robin's or Tasha's, or some of the other
options I've seen and bookmarked, and of course can't remember right now
when it would be very helpful and cool if I could...sigh)
--Sue, off in search of more memory-enhancing coffee ;o)
----- Original Message -----
From: "MaggiRos" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 1:27 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21


> It's the 14th & 15th century cotehardies & "sideless
> surcoates" one. All I want to create is the blue dress
> from June in the Duke of Berry's book of hours. I've
> been 16th century for so long, I hardly know where to
> begin with a cotehardie. I expect to look frumpy and
> middle-aged in any case. Just curious how the pattern
> works, how true to size it might be, how accurate to
> period, and so on. Being MM, I don't expect much from
> the directions.
>
> I presume that anyone with either rapturously fond or
> rabidly contrary opinions would know the pattern both
> by name and number. :-)


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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heidi, Kate Greenaway, and Aesthetic dress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Ah now I recall why I didn't buy this before. It's
pricey! But it looks wonderful. Maybe next year...

MaggiRos

--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

> 
> On Thu, 24 Aug 2006, MaggiRos wrote:
> 
> > I seem to remember (long ago) someone on the list
> posted a website for
> > commercial patterns for an Aesthetic tea dress or
> something. Would
> > anyone happen to know of such a thing?
> 
> I just mentioned Folkwear, but I was wrong. The one
> I was thinking about
> was from La Mode Bagatelle:
> 
> http://www.ravenrook.com/bagatelle/art.jsp
>
http://www.sewingcentral.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?page=lmb002.html&cart_id=7858735_12881
> ...and probably other vendors too.
> 
> Some reviews here, bottom of page:
> 
> http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/lmb.htm
> 
> No, I've never done this period. I just love looking
> at it.
> 
> IIRC, some of the St. Louis Costume Guild people
> (including a few on this
> list?) made artistic dresses for the most recent
> CostumeCon, but I don't
> know which pattern, if any, they used.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lund, Sweden
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Hi Cin,
There is the museum called "Kulturen" wich has a department with Historical 
Costumes, i think they change their exhibitis from time to time. I was there 
3 years ago to see womens clothes from early 18th to 20th century. I know 
they have a ruff from 16th century amongst other rare things.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 8:53 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Lund, Sweden


> Hey, list folks, in particular the Swedish contingent,
> I have a fiance going to Lund, Sweden for a brief business trip.
> Could you recommend any local museums or castles with excellent early
> costume collections? My clever plan is to send him for the catalog.
>
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: cotehardie pattern
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MaggiRos:

I don't have those Book of Hours illustrations handy, and I have never used
that pattern... the reason being that I have never liked the fit in the
made-up ones I've seen.

How closely fit is the one on "Miss June"? I have had very good success with
a method I made up in a fit of creative energy but with no patterns handy --
but it won't work for a very tight gown. This method works for a gown that
is tighter fit than modern dresses, but not supportive enough to use without
modern undergarments. I made several camp/work gowns from it, and they look
very good when worn with a hood, a hip belt, and medieval shoes.

Here's what I did: I decided to make a gown from all rectangles and squares.
I measured the widest part of me and divided that into four. Then I added
two inches for seam allowance and ease, and cut four rectangles that width
by the measurement from my shoulders to the ground (plus a little for hem
and seams). Have enough fabric left over for sleeves (rectangles) and gores.

Next I sewed two together, so I had two rectangles. Then I cut a neck hole
(just pick one from something you have that fits -- but don't forget to cut
smaller so that you can hem around it).


Next do the sleeves. Make the sleeves as rectangles, with the fold at the
shoulder and the seam underneath -- or in the back if you prefer. Sew them
to the shoulders, which you leave straight. Where the sleeve meets the side
seam, sew a little square gore (is that the word?). It's not difficult to
sew this as an actual square, but it's even easier to use two right-angle
triangles, sewn into the right angle between the sleeve and the side seam,
and then sew the sleeve from the wrist to the triangle, and then down the
unfinished part of the triangle to meet the side seam. Try to use the
smallest square you can -- the sleeves should be tight, unlike modern shirt
sleeves, but the square should give you plenty of ease. My wedding gown,
made in the 1950s, has very narrow sleeves with ease created by the same
little square.

>From there you just pin it until it fits. If someone can help you, that's
better -- but you can do it yourself too. Just baste it and try it out
before you cut! Make this fit from your underarm until the widest part of
your hips, if you have an hourglass figure. Otherwise use your waist --
wherever is widest.

Finally, do gores for the hip (or widest spot) to the floor. You only need
two, at the sides, but you can do three (add a back gore) or four (add a
front) to make it luxurious and swirly. If you have to piece fabric for one
or more gores, you will feel even more medieval!

The gown should be fairly tight, just loose enough to slip over your head
with a little difficulty. You can sew buttons up the front to mimic a
fancier cotehardie.

The fit depends on your skill, of course, but I have found that the look is
very "real" -- something about all those geometric pieces. It is easy and
even kind of fun to take a bunch of rectangles and make a fitted dress!

Gail Finke

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> Does anyone have any comments or observations on this pattern 
> [Medieval Miscellanea #21, 14th and 15th century cotehardies]? 
> I'm looking at view I.

It's a find pattern for a modern princess seamed dress with lacing down the front. It's not a GFD at all. However, the pictures in the instructions/documentation are a nice collection. I used it to make cotehardies, um...15 years ago or so, and didn't have much trouble with it as a novice seamstress (except I remember being utterly confused by what "easing a sleeve into a sleeve hole meant... :-) ) So I'd actually say that the instructions were good.
	-s


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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Cotehardie pattern...
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At 12:02 PM -0600 8/28/06, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>front) to make it luxurious and swirly. If you have to piece fabric for one
>or more gores, you will feel even more medieval!
>
>The gown should be fairly tight, just loose enough to slip over your head
>with a little difficulty. You can sew buttons up the front to mimic a
>fancier cotehardie.
>
>The fit depends on your skill, of course, but I have found that the look is
>very "real" -- something about all those geometric pieces. It is easy and
>even kind of fun to take a bunch of rectangles and make a fitted dress!

Dang Woman--you've been hiding in my sewing room! And here it would 
be soo much easier with another set of hands! < VBEG>
  (I swiped my ideas from 'Cut my Cote' and the Hartely book back in 
the mid 70's...when I was younger and could actually reach my entire 
back seam myself, I did several skin tight fitted "GFD"...now they 
just aren't as fitted)
Ta
Carol-- who thinks cutting and fitting by rectangles is sooo spiffy 
*and* efficient! And as a weaver it's a 'Good Thang'
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 12:53:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: cotehardie pattern
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Here's the picture itself.
<http://lightning.prohosting.com/bjgeiger/doodles/fantasy/hours/june.jpg>

I have this amazing blue wool that's just the color of
the one on the right. I basically need a work/camp
dress as shown, over an underdress/shift. Mind you,
that woman is in better shape than I am, and I don't
really want anything that hugs the figure (especially
over the tum) too completely. Not the most fashionable
sillhouette, but a useful one.

MaggiRos

--- Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:

> 
> MaggiRos:
> 
> I don't have those Book of Hours illustrations
> handy, and I have never used
> that pattern... the reason being that I have never
> liked the fit in the
> made-up ones I've seen.
> 
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From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
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After nearly 20 years of off and on working on it I got my book
published. :)

The Compleat Anachronist Spring 2006
Making Elizabethan Gloves
CA0131
http://tinyurl.com/q4lh7

It says Spring but it actually got published this month. It arrived
in most mail boxes this weekend. :)

HL Chiara

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hello all,
I am off tomorrow morning  for 14 days holliday at Scicilly, i am 
unsubscribing in the period but will return.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 14:01:32 -0700
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At 01:16 PM 8/28/2006, you wrote:
>Hello all,
>I am off tomorrow morning  for 14 days holliday at Scicilly, i am 
>unsubscribing in the period but will return.
>
>Bjarne

Have a great trip!


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 17:14:02 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Glove booklett published
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Congrats! I got mine the other day!

Monica
(Dame Catriona MacDuff
East)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 3:45 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Glove booklett published


After nearly 20 years of off and on working on it I got my book
published. :)

The Compleat Anachronist Spring 2006
Making Elizabethan Gloves
CA0131
http://tinyurl.com/q4lh7

It says Spring but it actually got published this month. It arrived
in most mail boxes this weekend. :)

HL Chiara

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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A couple of weeks ago I posted to this list a note about the possibility I
might give some lectures on medieval costume at CostumeCon 25 (April 2007
in St. Louis) if there were enough interest. I didn't realize till after I
posted that the note went out at a time when many people who do medieval
costuming in this part of the country were at the SCA's Pennsic War and
away from their e-mail. So, the message didn't propogate as far as I'd
hoped. Some people have suggested to me that I try again.

To my knowledge, the message did go to the list for the SCA kingdom of
Calontir, the Meridies costumers list, and a few specialty lists
(including aotc, Laurels, Authentic SCA). I would be very grateful if I
could get the message sent along to the other kingdoms that serve the
greater Midwest, and to any regional costume lists of medieval interest in
the same regions. I don't know the names of all the kingdoms.

If you are on one of those lists where the message did not appear, and you
would be willing to forward the message, please e-mail me privately and
I'll send you a copy. (Don't forward *this* note; it doesn't have the
necessary information!) Thanks!

--Robin

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Have a wonderful trip.
De

-----Original Message-----
Hello all,
I am off tomorrow morning  for 14 days holliday at Scicilly, i am 
unsubscribing in the period but will return.

Bjarne



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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Glove booklett published
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I got mine.  It looks very thorough! ;o) I was showing it to another (SCA)
friend, and she was drooling at your biblio!
Well done!
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:44 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Glove booklett published


> After nearly 20 years of off and on working on it I got my book
> published. :)
>
> The Compleat Anachronist Spring 2006
> Making Elizabethan Gloves
> CA0131
> http://tinyurl.com/q4lh7
>
> It says Spring but it actually got published this month. It arrived
> in most mail boxes this weekend. :)
>
> HL Chiara
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Glove booklett published
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Darn, I didn't subscribe to CA this year! Waah.

Maggie

--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:

> I got mine.  It looks very thorough! ;o) I was
> showing it to another (SCA)
> friend, and she was drooling at your biblio!
> Well done!
> --Sue
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio"
> <chiara@io.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:44 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Glove booklett published
> 
> 
> > After nearly 20 years of off and on working on it
> I got my book
> > published. :)
> >
> > The Compleat Anachronist Spring 2006
> > Making Elizabethan Gloves
> > CA0131
> > http://tinyurl.com/q4lh7
> >
> > It says Spring but it actually got published this
> month. It arrived
> > in most mail boxes this weekend. :)
> >
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MaggiRos wrote:

> Darn, I didn't subscribe to CA this year! Waah.
> 


I don't either. I just go through the list every few years and pick out 
the issues that interest me.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Glove booklett published
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 21:25:59 -0500
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Thank you all!!! :)

I started the booklet in '84 if that gives you any idea how much of me is in 
there. :)

It is already on the order page, that is the tinyrul I added there at the 
bottom. :)

It is what I used for my class kit so I will be ordering quite a few to put 
in the kits. :)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MaggiRos" <maggiros@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Glove booklett published


> Darn, I didn't subscribe to CA this year! Waah.
>
> Maggie
>
> --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
>
>> I got mine.  It looks very thorough! ;o) I was
>> showing it to another (SCA)
>> friend, and she was drooling at your biblio!
>> Well done!
>> --Sue
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio"
>> <chiara@io.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 1:44 PM
>> Subject: [h-cost] Glove booklett published
>>
>>
>> > After nearly 20 years of off and on working on it
>> I got my book
>> > published. :)
>> >
>> > The Compleat Anachronist Spring 2006
>> > Making Elizabethan Gloves
>> > CA0131
>> > http://tinyurl.com/q4lh7
>> >
>> > It says Spring but it actually got published this
>> month. It arrived
>> > in most mail boxes this weekend. :)
>> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 20:50:25 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: drewscph@post12.tele.dk, h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Lund, Sweden
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>Hi Cin,
>There is the museum called "Kulturen" wich has a department with Historical
>Costumes, i think they change their exhibitis from time to time. I was there
>3 years ago to see womens clothes from early 18th to 20th century. I know
>they have a ruff from 16th century amongst other rare things.

Thanks so much, Bjarne.  He said the exhibit had closed.  His note is
copied below.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

>  I was at that Museum.  The exhibits changed and they did not have the
> women's clothes exhibit.  Their bookstore did not have anything (in any
> language) on clothes.  That was the first thing I looked for :)  I was
> hoping to surprise you with a good catalog but no such luck.
>
> Raz
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Glove booklett published
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Status: RO


I have only had time to skim so far, but I like what I've seen so far. Good 
job.

> After nearly 20 years of off and on working on it I got my book
> published. :)
>
> The Compleat Anachronist Spring 2006
> Making Elizabethan Gloves
> CA0131
> http://tinyurl.com/q4lh7
>
> It says Spring but it actually got published this month. It arrived
> in most mail boxes this weekend. :)
>
> HL Chiara
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Lena <lenastrid@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Lund, Sweden
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

However, if you contact them, maybe you can arrange to
be shown clothes that are not on exhibit?
(info@kulturen.com) I went there on a "behind the
stage" day a few years ago, and they have wonderful
stuff.

/Lena

--- Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:

> >Hi Cin,
> >There is the museum called "Kulturen" wich has a
> department with Historical
> >Costumes, i think they change their exhibitis from
> time to time. I was there
> >3 years ago to see womens clothes from early 18th
> to 20th century. I know
> >they have a ruff from 16th century amongst other
> rare things.
> 
> Thanks so much, Bjarne.  He said the exhibit had
> closed.  His note is
> copied below.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> 
> >  I was at that Museum.  The exhibits changed and
> they did not have the
> > women's clothes exhibit.  Their bookstore did not
> have anything (in any
> > language) on clothes.  That was the first thing I
> looked for :)  I was
> > hoping to surprise you with a good catalog but no
> such luck.
> >
> > Raz
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



	
	
		
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        Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses?
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http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-flannel- 
fabric.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-8/29/06%20Labor%20day%20sale-_-Real%20Deal- 
_-Wool%20Flannel


Susan

"Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness" Carol H.
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From: Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: aesthetic dress
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 21:37:11 -0400
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Sounds oh so Gothic to me. (everything old is new again...)

Sheridan P. :-)

> 
> From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
> Date: 2006/08/25 Fri PM 10:16:06 EST
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: aesthetic dress
> 
> 
> Lovely as it may seem now, aesthetic dress was considered strange and
> subversive at the time. Gilbert and Sullivan had a great show (I have never
> seen it, unfortunately) about the aesthetic movement -- "Patience; or,
> Bunthorne's Bride." The heroine is a young girl who thinks she can't be in
> love unless she's suffering, so she ignores the nice young man who loves her
> in favor of the Oscar Wilde-ish poet whom she can't stand. Whenever she's
> around him, she suffers, so she thinks she must be in love. During the
> operetta, all the young soldiers give up their uniforms for velvet suits and
> lilies, to catch the women who are swooning over poets.
> 
> "When I Go Out the Door" is the final song describing the poet and the hero.
> The poet is:
> 
> "A most intense young man,
> A soulful-eyed young man,
> An ultra-poetical, super-aesthetical,
> Out-of-the-way young man!
> 
> and 
> 
> "A pallid and thin young man,
> A haggard and lank young man,
> A greenery-yallery, Grosvenor Gallery,
> Foot-in-the-grave young man!"
> 
> Of course, the aesthetic folks didn't see themselves that way.
> 
> There's also a great cartoon by G.K. Chesterton called "Vision in Bedford
> Park." I can't find it online, unfortunately, but it's in the edition of
> "The Man Who Was Thursday" published by Ignatius and annotated by Martin
> Gardner. It shows a "pallid and thin" man carrying a lily and a woman in a
> loose, aesthetic gown staring in shock at the shadow of a man in a
> respectable coat, carrying a prayer book. The caption is "Bedford Parkers
> see a Dreadful Vision of the Future: an old acquaintance going to Church."
> Bedford Park was an artsy area of London where poets and the like hung out,
> and Chesterton was an old "Bedford Parker" himself, before his famous
> conversion, after which he preferred common sense and religious orthodoxy to
> aesthetic movements, atheism, and intellectual fads. But his associating
> aesthetic dress to these things gives you an idea of the way it was
> regarded.
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2006 07:26:45 -0700
From: Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com>
Subject: [h-cost] contracts
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: cley@juno.com
Message-ID: <20060825.072647.1872.4.Cley@juno.com>
Content-Type: text/plain

Hi all. I was wondering if I could ask all you professionals out there
for some advice. I have a friend who is starting to make high-quality SCA
garb for sale, and is interested in doing custom work. She was wondering
about the wording on contracts, whether these be pay for garment or
barter for garment. Any suggestions that I could share with her?

thanks!
Arlys



****Tell your friend to be aware that if she puts "Barter" in writing in a
contract, she will probably have to report it to the IRS.  Technically,
all barter situations are like that - you're suppposed to report every
single one to the IRS, but if it isn't in writing, it can be very
difficult to prove. The minute it ends up on paper, you're stuck with it,
and then the reporting has to occur. Or you have to get very creative on
your paperwork when you're selected for a random audit.

Patches
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses?
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At 03:02 PM 8/29/2006, you wrote:
>http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-flannel- 
>fabric.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-8/29/06%20Labor%20day%20sale-_-Real%20Deal- 
>_-Wool%20Flannel
>
>
>Susan

Looks lovely to me.  What sort of use do you have in mind?


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 
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Status: RO

Thanks! I'll pass this along.
Arlys

On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 21:21:24 -0600 (MDT) "Rachel Sampsel"
<raelee@rachelsampsel.com> writes:
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2006 07:26:45 -0700
> From: Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] contracts
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Cc: cley@juno.com
> Message-ID: <20060825.072647.1872.4.Cley@juno.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain
> 
> Hi all. I was wondering if I could ask all you professionals out 
> there
> for some advice. I have a friend who is starting to make 
> high-quality SCA
> garb for sale, and is interested in doing custom work. She was 
> wondering
> about the wording on contracts, whether these be pay for garment or
> barter for garment. Any suggestions that I could share with her?
> 
> thanks!
> Arlys
> 
> 
> 
> ****Tell your friend to be aware that if she puts "Barter" in 
> writing in a
> contract, she will probably have to report it to the IRS.  
> Technically,
> all barter situations are like that - you're suppposed to report 
> every
> single one to the IRS, but if it isn't in writing, it can be very
> difficult to prove. The minute it ends up on paper, you're stuck 
> with it,
> and then the reporting has to occur. Or you have to get very 
> creative on
> your paperwork when you're selected for a random audit.
> 
> Patches
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Racinet
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Status: RO

I'm teaching a class on costume and fashion this fall and would like to 
use Racinet's illustrations to supplement the history section.  
Considering his book was written in the 1800s, what do you experts 
think of it in terms of accuracy?

Sylrog

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses?
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 23:44:10 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Saw this on fabric.com website and thought I would alert folks to it  
and ask if it was worthy of use in Period Attire.


I am primarily interested in Rev War and Civil War/Victorian (USA).   
Most interested in Sidesaddle Riding Habits for those time periods, but  
am expanding to unmounted clothing as well.  Husband will "dress" for  
those time periods, if I provide the clothing.  He has his own horse,  
as well.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Aug 29, 2006, at 11:34 PM, Joan Jurancich wrote:

> At 03:02 PM 8/29/2006, you wrote:
>> http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool- 
>> flannel-  
>> fabric.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-8/29/06%20Labor%20day%20sale-_- 
>> Real%20Deal- _-Wool%20Flannel
>>
>>
>> Susan
>
> Looks lovely to me.  What sort of use do you have in mind?
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net _______________________________________________
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses?
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 08:55:30 -0400
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I saw this yesterday morning as well. And I was pretty darned excited,
until I saw the fiber content. It's 20% nylon, which is too much for me.
Also, I'm not all that thrilled with the colors. It all depends on your
needs, for ACW/Victorian it might be just fine. For Early Period, it's
not what I'm looking for. 

It is an excellent price, though. 

::Linda::


-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming
uses?

Saw this on fabric.com website and thought I would alert folks to it  
and ask if it was worthy of use in Period Attire.


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20% Nylon? Well, crap....
I was excited, too, but hadn't had time yet to check it out.  Bummer.....
--Sue, looking for some wool for an early-Medieval clothing item
(gardecorps)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 6:55 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming
uses?


> I saw this yesterday morning as well. And I was pretty darned excited,
> until I saw the fiber content. It's 20% nylon, which is too much for me.
> Also, I'm not all that thrilled with the colors. It all depends on your
> needs, for ACW/Victorian it might be just fine. For Early Period, it's
> not what I'm looking for.
>
> It is an excellent price, though.
>
> ::Linda::
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 11:44 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming
> uses?
>
> Saw this on fabric.com website and thought I would alert folks to it
> and ask if it was worthy of use in Period Attire.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses?
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At 07:08 AM 8/30/2006, you wrote:
>20% Nylon? Well, crap....
>I was excited, too, but hadn't had time yet to check it out.  Bummer.....
>--Sue, looking for some wool for an early-Medieval clothing item
>(gardecorps)

Fooey! I didn't look at the individual fabric listings, so I missed 
the nylon content.  But they do have some 100% wool gabardine which 
might be nice, it's a bit lighter weight, 
though. 
http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-gabardine.aspx


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Racinet
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 10:10:21 -0500
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He drew very pretty pictures...that's about all I can say about Racinet. :)
For me, if I can't see what the original subject looked like, or track down
a reference for the drawing, then it's useless as far as accuracy goes.

Talia

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 9:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Racinet


I'm teaching a class on costume and fashion this fall and would like to
use Racinet's illustrations to supplement the history section.
Considering his book was written in the 1800s, what do you experts
think of it in terms of accuracy?

Sylrog

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From: monicaspence@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Racinet
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Not much. They were redrawings of famous paintings and illustrations. Better you should use primary, not secondary sources.

Monica Spence
Fashion History instructor/ costume historian

----- Original Message -----
From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 10:57 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Racinet

> I'm teaching a class on costume and fashion this fall and would 
> like to 
> use Racinet's illustrations to supplement the history section.  
> Considering his book was written in the 1800s, what do you experts 
> think of it in terms of accuracy?
> 
> Sylrog
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses?
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There's a reason I became very biased towards FFC, and its name is 
selection:
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/Catalog_items.aspx?Query=100%%20wool

-E "biased" House 

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Racinet
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 09:33:53 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yes, I'm starting to realize that my costume library from when I 
studied costume history eons ago is full of inaccurate information.  
Does anyone know of a comprehensive book on costume history that is 
really good with lots of primary sources?

Sylrog

On Aug 30, 2006, at 9:10 AM, KLH wrote:

> He drew very pretty pictures...that's about all I can say about 
> Racinet. :)
> For me, if I can't see what the original subject looked like, or track 
> down
> a reference for the drawing, then it's useless as far as accuracy goes.
>
> Talia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 9:57 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Racinet
>
>
> I'm teaching a class on costume and fashion this fall and would like to
> use Racinet's illustrations to supplement the history section.
> Considering his book was written in the 1800s, what do you experts
> think of it in terms of accuracy?
>
> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: What would *you* use?  (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
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Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:

> I'm teaching a class on costume and fashion this fall and would like to
> use Racinet's illustrations to supplement the history section.
> Considering his book was written in the 1800s, what do you experts
> think of it in terms of accuracy?

In light of the negative responses to this question, what book would you use?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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It really would depend on the time period I was teaching, and the
geographical area. There's so many choices...

Talia

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 11:27 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: What would *you* use? (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet


Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:

> I'm teaching a class on costume and fashion this fall and would like to
> use Racinet's illustrations to supplement the history section.
> Considering his book was written in the 1800s, what do you experts
> think of it in terms of accuracy?

In light of the negative responses to this question, what book would you
use?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Quoting KLH <khanson@kc.rr.com>:

> It really would depend on the time period I was teaching, and the
> geographical area. There's so many choices...

The assumption that *I* was making is that it was a survey of Western  
European Clothing.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: Angela Lazear <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] contracts
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Cynthia,
 
I drafted my own contract(s), but I am a paralegal by day.  If your friend has any lawyer buddies, she should ask them for forms she can use.  Or make a list of what her goods are, what she wants to charge, any detail she can think of, and her friend can tell her what she needs to state in her contract. If there is no such friend, there are a series of books by "Nolo Press" which are very helpful to folks who wish to "be their own lawyer" and in some cases it can be done without disastrous results.  I'm sure she can find one for contracts for small businesses and adapt it.
 
For most transactions, a simple fairly short (about two pages or so) document that is CLEAR about the biggies should be fine. My biggest caveat is don't be afraid to be clear and forthright.  If a client is going to be upset about one of your condiions, much better to find out about that BEFORE you've done a bunch of work for which they do not pay.  For selling garments you have already made, all of this will be less of an issue, as they will just buy it or not.  But when you make someone a garment, you are working for them, and it is much easier if you are both on the same page.
 
Essentially a contract for this type of work should be a list of what you want to provide, when you want to provide it, how much it will cost, and a payment schedule, and a few other things I'm not thinking of right now.  Go through your list and think about all the things that can go wrong, where the stressers were when you've done this for friends, etc.  For instance
 
I find that payment is a stresser, so I list when I will be paid, how much I will be paid, and what I will do in terms of alterations or additions or whatever, before I will have to ask for more money.  In other words, everything that is "included" and what is not.  I always get a deposit for at least the full cost of materials.  But these are terms that work for me.
 
If your friend doesn't already have one, he or she should get a resale license for their state, so they are not paying taxes on the goods that they purchase to make into the garments, and can buy supplies and fabric at wholesale prices.  The other side of that privilege is that they will have to pay sales tax to the state they live in on the cost of the garments, including labor.
 
That's the extent of my "advice" (let me repeat I am NOT an attorney, so this is not legal advice, but personal opinion).  I would also not avoid reporting income (including barter) because for me I feel I have to follow all the rules to really be a true professional, but that again, is just my personal opinion.
 
Hope this bit was helpful.
 
angela
 
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com


----- Original Message ----
From: Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: cley@juno.com
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 7:26:45 AM
Subject: [h-cost] contracts


Hi all. I was wondering if I could ask all you professionals out there
for some advice. I have a friend who is starting to make high-quality SCA
garb for sale, and is interested in doing custom work. She was wondering
about the wording on contracts, whether these be pay for garment or
barter for garment. Any suggestions that I could share with her?

thanks!
Arlys
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A link I hadn't seen before:


http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/hispanicdesigners/



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From: skskaw@comcast.net (SKneeland)
To: steps@antir.sca.org, "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Off topic, way off_museum assistant position
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Greetings, 

There is a federal position (for those who might also be interested) involving museum curator assistant-ship (i believe those are the titles).  They require knowledge of museum procedures for cataloging and storing and safe handling, 19th century I believe.  Is there an expert in this field who would be willing to share what those _skills_ are? 

TIA, 

SKneeland
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: What would *you* use?  (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 17:58:06 -0600
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It's an overview of costume history,  not any one particular period, 
and it will not go into much depth, since the class is on the costume 
and fashion business.  I just need to introduce the students into the 
very basic history.

Sylvia

On Aug 30, 2006, at 10:40 AM, KLH wrote:

> It really would depend on the time period I was teaching, and the
> geographical area. There's so many choices...
>
> Talia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 11:27 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: What would *you* use? (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
>
>
> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
>
>> I'm teaching a class on costume and fashion this fall and would like 
>> to
>> use Racinet's illustrations to supplement the history section.
>> Considering his book was written in the 1800s, what do you experts
>> think of it in terms of accuracy?
>
> In light of the negative responses to this question, what book would 
> you
> use?
>
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: What would *you* use?  (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 17:58:41 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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That is correct.

On Aug 30, 2006, at 10:44 AM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> Quoting KLH <khanson@kc.rr.com>:
>
>> It really would depend on the time period I was teaching, and the
>> geographical area. There's so many choices...
>
> The assumption that *I* was making is that it was a survey of Western 
> European Clothing.
>
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: What would *you* use?  (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 20:07:25 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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If you don't think much of Racinet, what about Kohler?  ALthough his 
book was written in the twenties, he appears to have a lot of primary 
sources.  I find his diagrammed patterns of clothing interesting, 
although they are conjecture.  They seem well thought out.

Sylrog

On Aug 30, 2006, at 10:27 AM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
>
>> I'm teaching a class on costume and fashion this fall and would like 
>> to
>> use Racinet's illustrations to supplement the history section.
>> Considering his book was written in the 1800s, what do you experts
>> think of it in terms of accuracy?
>
> In light of the negative responses to this question, what book would 
> you use?
>
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses?
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 21:59:37 -0400
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On Wednesday 30 August 2006 10:55 am, Joan Jurancich wrote:
> At 07:08 AM 8/30/2006, you wrote:
> >20% Nylon? Well, crap....
> >I was excited, too, but hadn't had time yet to check it out.  Bummer.....
> >--Sue, looking for some wool for an early-Medieval clothing item
> >(gardecorps)
>
> Fooey! I didn't look at the individual fabric listings, so I missed
> the nylon content.  But they do have some 100% wool gabardine which
> might be nice, it's a bit lighter weight,
> though.
> http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-gabardine.asp

I don't believe in wool gabardine for medieval clothing; it looks way too 
shiny, even if it is 100% wool.

Fabric.com does have nice flannels from time to time, though the color choice 
is often too restricted for my taste.  The selection varies a lot; they often 
do have 100% wool melton and flannel, just not now (apparently).

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Subject: Re: What would *you* use?  (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
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The list seems to have eaten my first response:

The current favorites, based on a quick web survey of posted class 
syllabi, are:

The History of Costume: From Ancient Mesopotamia through the Twentieth 
Century. Payne, B., Winakor, G., and Farrell-Beck, J. New York: 
HarperCollins, 1992.

Laver, J. Fashion: A Concise History. Thames & Hudson 2002.

Survey of Historic Costume, 3rd edition, by Phyllis Tortora and Keith 
Eubank


Any of those ought to be a good start, supplemented by the teacher's 
notes, of course.



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses?
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I've got some lovely, lovely flannel, purchased earlier this summer from
Pastiche, but was looking for a few more yards for a 13th century project,
and then some wool that's in between flannel and melton, weight-wise.  I
want it for an outer garment (the gardecorps), but I don't want it so stiff
and heavy that it's like wearing armor.  I'm built like a tank as it is <g>,
so I need something that drapes a bit more than the meltons I've met.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming
uses?


> On Wednesday 30 August 2006 10:55 am, Joan Jurancich wrote:
> > At 07:08 AM 8/30/2006, you wrote:
> > >20% Nylon? Well, crap....
> > >I was excited, too, but hadn't had time yet to check it out.
Bummer.....
> > >--Sue, looking for some wool for an early-Medieval clothing item
> > >(gardecorps)
> >
> > Fooey! I didn't look at the individual fabric listings, so I missed
> > the nylon content.  But they do have some 100% wool gabardine which
> > might be nice, it's a bit lighter weight,
> > though.
> >
http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-gabardine.asp
>
> I don't believe in wool gabardine for medieval clothing; it looks way too
> shiny, even if it is 100% wool.
>
> Fabric.com does have nice flannels from time to time, though the color
choice
> is often too restricted for my taste.  The selection varies a lot; they
often
> do have 100% wool melton and flannel, just not now (apparently).
>
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
> of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: What would *you* use? (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
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Status: RO

I am agreeing with Dawn on these two books, not sure about the third, I 
don't own it.

The Survey of Historic Costume comes up to modern times, I think the late 
1970's/80's and has quite a bit on modern fashion that should be helpful 
when tying the course into the rest of your fashion program.  I would 
suplement it though, as it's just a survey and doesn't go in depth on any 
one era or culture.  Maybe a suggested reading list to go with the textbook 
and class notes.

Kelly



"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus


>
>Laver, J. Fashion: A Concise History. Thames & Hudson 2002.
>
>Survey of Historic Costume, 3rd edition, by Phyllis Tortora and Keith 
>Eubank
>
>
>Any of those ought to be a good start, supplemented by the teacher's notes, 
>of course.
>
>
>
>Dawn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Racinet
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At 16:33 30/08/2006, you wrote:
>Yes, I'm starting to realize that my costume library from when I 
>studied costume history eons ago is full of inaccurate information.
>Does anyone know of a comprehensive book on costume history that is 
>really good with lots of primary sources?
>
>Sylrog


Francois Boucher "History of Costume in the Western World" is my 
favourite, with lots of text, great photos of garments, accessories, 
and paintings, although some are black and white. Mostly there is 
good dating and sources, i.e. Prado, V and A etc.

Suzi

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Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
> 

> 
> In light of the negative responses to this question, what book would you 
> use?
> 

The current favorites, based on a quick web survey of posted class 
syllabi, are:

The History of Costume: From Ancient Mesopotamia through the Twentieth 
Century. Payne, B., Winakor, G., and Farrell-Beck, J. New York: 
HarperCollins, 1992.

Laver, J. Fashion: A Concise History. Thames & Hudson 2002.

Survey of Historic Costume, 3rd edition, by Phyllis Tortora and Keith Eubank



Dawn

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In a message dated 8/30/06 7:02:01 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> In light of the negative responses to this question, what book would you 
> >use?

history of costume by james laver
(actually has a couple of names, depending on the version, as it's been 
re-issued a couple of times), by james laver

pretty much anything by the cunningtons 
(some books (eg occupational costume) use a lot of re-drawings, but they're 
generally faithful to the original, and usually impeccably sourced, and not too 
hard to find if you want to look at the originals)

the visual history of costume books 
(either the one volume version, or if you can find them, the separate volumes 
(by various authors, published by batsford and now out of print)

several books on different aspects of costume by Aileen Ribeiro     
    
debbie

PS, most of these deal with english / western european costume since c 1K ad)
    
    
    

    
    

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Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 22:36:15 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: What would *you* use?  (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
In-reply-to: <532430775004ba00602b3e27f9b9c8da@ntw.net>
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Status: RO

I don't think much of Kohler. There are better sources.

Janet Arnold's 3 books "Patterns of fashion" are a good start if you are
doing 16th-20th Centuries. There are no perfect costume books. Start with
the primary sources (art) and extant clothing of whatever period you need.
Powerpoint is a good way to go, since you can put whatever you want into the
presentation. So many pictures are available online, it makes it easy.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 10:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: What would *you* use? (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet


If you don't think much of Racinet, what about Kohler?  ALthough his
book was written in the twenties, he appears to have a lot of primary
sources.  I find his diagrammed patterns of clothing interesting,
although they are conjecture.  They seem well thought out.

Sylrog

On Aug 30, 2006, at 10:27 AM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
>
>> I'm teaching a class on costume and fashion this fall and would like
>> to
>> use Racinet's illustrations to supplement the history section.
>> Considering his book was written in the 1800s, what do you experts
>> think of it in terms of accuracy?
>
> In light of the negative responses to this question, what book would
> you use?
>
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: RE: What would *you* use?  (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
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Status: RO

The problem with costume books is that they are all too general. If you want
to see the most artwork-- use Davenport. However, the book is in B&W, the
pics are small and the text is gossipy.  If you are looking for specific
periods , a how to : The Janet Arnold books, Norah Waugh, The Tudor Tailor,
The Medieval Tailor's assistant, the Jean Hunniset books. They have various
degrees of historical accuracy.

For the various periods, there are specialty books like Queen Elizabeth's
Wardrobe Unlo'ked, Moda di Firenze, Hispanic Costume, etc. Very specific
time periods.

A pretty good source for life and times is the Time-Life series: What life
was like" Loaded with color pics and decent short essays.

The Tortora/ Eubanks book does not have nearly enough color pics. (We use
that as the new text where I teach)

One day there will be the perfect textbook. It will weigh 100lbs and cost
$2000. :-)

Monica Spence



--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 08:56:48 -0400
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
From: Dawn Luckham <dluckham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: RE: What would *you* use?  (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
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I just finished a college level program that used "Survey of Historic 
Costume: A History of Western Dress" by Phyllis G. Tortora, Keith 
Eubank.  It's current and it brushes past history and costume, combining 
social and political influences.  As someone who was already very 
interested in historic costume before I took the class, I must admit, I 
found this book vague and well, lacking.

My favourite for teaching a class on Historic Costume would be 20,000 Years 
of Fashion by Francois Boucher.  I like the text and I like that it is full 
of art that illustrates style.

Dawn Luckham




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  > I don't believe in wool gabardine for medieval clothing; it looks way
  > too
  > shiny, even if it is 100% wool.
  > 
  > Fabric.com does have nice flannels from time to time, though the color
  > choice
  > is often too restricted for my taste.  The selection varies a lot; they
  > often
  > do have 100% wool melton and flannel, just not now (apparently).
  > 



Yes, but you can often "unshine" it by ignoring all the care instructions
and washing it/drying it a couple times really roughly...

Guenièvre 


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: What would *you* use?  (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 08:23:03 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I am aware of the generality problem and will definitely use more 
sources when I teach a costume history class next semester, but the 
class I am currently teaching just requires a broad overview of 
history, something that will only require a couple of weeks at the 
most.    I was really trying to find one of those costume silhouette 
timelines I have seen in the past, but haven't been able to locate one 
anywhere.

Sylrog

On Aug 31, 2006, at 6:53 AM, monica spence wrote:

> The problem with costume books is that they are all too general. If 
> you want
> to see the most artwork-- use Davenport. However, the book is in B&W, 
> the
> pics are small and the text is gossipy.  If you are looking for 
> specific
> periods , a how to : The Janet Arnold books, Norah Waugh, The Tudor 
> Tailor,
> The Medieval Tailor's assistant, the Jean Hunniset books. They have 
> various
> degrees of historical accuracy.
>
> For the various periods, there are specialty books like Queen 
> Elizabeth's
> Wardrobe Unlo'ked, Moda di Firenze, Hispanic Costume, etc. Very 
> specific
> time periods.
>
> A pretty good source for life and times is the Time-Life series: What 
> life
> was like" Loaded with color pics and decent short essays.
>
> The Tortora/ Eubanks book does not have nearly enough color pics. (We 
> use
> that as the new text where I teach)
>
> One day there will be the perfect textbook. It will weigh 100lbs and 
> cost
> $2000. :-)
>
> Monica Spence
>
>
>
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
> of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses?
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Status: RO

For what it's worth, I recently did a thread count comparison between the 
counts given in "Medieval Textiles" and "Woven into the Earth," and some 
common types of modern wool (including gabardine). To my surprise, even the 
normal-to-coarse modern wools that should have been comparable based on text 
descriptions were FAR finer (like 2-3 times the thread count) than even the 
extant textiles that were described as being extremely fine.  If anyone is 
interested in more detail, I'll look around for the notebook that has my 
preliminary notes and post 'em here.

Long story short, though, go for the coarser woolens if you want a really 
authentic-looking fabric, at least for pre ~1475, and for early period & 
vikingish stuff, try to find a coarse worsted. (Woolens didn't get hip until 
what, around 12thC-13thC?  sorry, posting without my references.)

-E House
(Loves the fine worsteds far too much to give them up.  Besides, I haven't 
gotten thread counts for the early 16thC yet.  Maybe things were different 
then! Anyone have any references?) 

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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
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Here's an interesting problem we could use your
collective input on:

I ran into a woman I know yesterday and she presented
me with an interesting question.  Seems she has taken
over the costumes for a local Bethlehem Walk and is in
a little bit of a panic. 

A little background - a Bethlehem Walk is scenes from
the life of Jesus. This particular one is presented by
a group of about 10 country churches here in my little
corner of Southeastern Ohio.  Many of the churches are
lucky if they have a congregation of more than 20
folks.  

They aren't interested in historical accuracy just
general impression - since none of the audience stays
in one place for more than a couple minutes as they
walk past the setting.  Plus the Walk takes place
outside in the evenings over Thanksgiving weekend. So
it is pretty dark and the players are generally
bundled up under all their robes.

All that said, the major frustration at the moment is
the helmets for the Roman soldiers. Currently they are
using baseball batting helmets worn backwards with -
get this - red feather boas glued across the top.
There is nothing to be done about the helmets - they
were donated and there is no money to replace them -
but the feathers across the top seem to have molted
terribly over the summer.

So the question is - Any ideas for cheap, easy to
apply replacements for the boas?

Any ideas will be greatfully accepted.

Thanks

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Subject: Re: What would *you* use?  (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet
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On Wednesday 30 August 2006 10:51 pm, Dawn wrote:
> The list seems to have eaten my first response:
>
> The current favorites, based on a quick web survey of posted class
> syllabi, are:
>
> The History of Costume: From Ancient Mesopotamia through the Twentieth
> Century. Payne, B., Winakor, G., and Farrell-Beck, J. New York:
> HarperCollins, 1992.
>
> Laver, J. Fashion: A Concise History. Thames & Hudson 2002.
>
> Survey of Historic Costume, 3rd edition, by Phyllis Tortora and Keith
> Eubank

Here's my 2 cents (in the currency of your choice):

Laver isn't bad, but he's very, very general.  His book alone doesn't give 
nearly enough detail, even for a survey of Western costume.

Payne is sufficiently comprehensive.  I'm not familiar with the 1992 version, 
but older versions did not incorporate the recent archaeological research, 
particularly on dark ages costume.

Tortora and Eubank is used by many college curricula in the subject, or so I 
understand.  I haven't read it either, but I flipped through it in a 
bookstore once and was impressed by the clarity of its diagrams. 


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Soldiers
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Nylon broom straw, in red if you can find it. Or regular broom straw,
dyed, or painted.

put a bunch together with a rubber band, make a puddle of glue (hot
glue) stand the bundle up in it.

?

Bridgette
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Marie Stewart wrote:
> Nylon broom straw, in red if you can find it. Or regular broom straw,
> dyed, or painted.
> 
> put a bunch together with a rubber band, make a puddle of glue (hot
> glue) stand the bundle up in it.
> 
> ?

that's what I was thinking of as well, just remember to take the handle 
off the broom or your roman soldiers will look like Marvin the Martian

liz young

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I used the James Laver book last semester to teach a general Western 
European/American clothing history class.  It was cheap, which is always 
good for the students, but it's very much a brief history and has about 
five pages on the entire middle ages.  It was extremely lacking in 
details, and you can certainly tell when it was written.  Laver likes to 
put in his own opinions on how unlovely past fashions were.

I would love to have used Boucher, but it went out of print, and I hate 
to ask students to search around for OOP books at who knows what price. 
  The text in Boucher is pretty iffy in places, but the images are great 
and plentiful.

In the end, I supplemented with lots of readings from other sources.  I 
don't think there's really a good textbook out there right now for this.

Melanie Schuessler
Eastern Michigan University

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Guenievre de Monmarche" <guenievre@erminespot.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 9:24 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming 
uses?


>  > I don't believe in wool gabardine for medieval clothing; it looks way
>  > too
>  > shiny, even if it is 100% wool.
>
> Yes, but you can often "unshine" it by ignoring all the care instructions
> and washing it/drying it a couple times really roughly...
>
> Guenièvre

 I wash and dry mine when it needs it...doesn't appear to have hurt it in 
the least!

Dianne 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Soldiers
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> 
> So the question is - Any ideas for cheap, easy to
> apply replacements for the boas?
> 

IIRC the boa lengths were pretty cheap at Joann's ($5-10?), and they 
could get several helmets covered with one length.

However, there are places that sell plastic costume helmets pretty cheap 
too, for example this is $4.50:

http://www.unitedmaskandparty.com/Character_Heads_And_Helmets/images/roman_helmet_adult.JPG

I suspect they only need a few, surely they can scrounge up $5 a person 
and replace the baseball helmets.



Dawn




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Soldiers
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> All that said, the major frustration at the moment is
> the helmets for the Roman soldiers. Currently they are
> using baseball batting helmets worn backwards with -
> get this - red feather boas glued across the top.
> There is nothing to be done about the helmets - they
> were donated and there is no money to replace them -
> but the feathers across the top seem to have molted
> terribly over the summer.

     I was in a Roman reenactment group for a while.  The crest on the
helmet is a brush made of horsehair, not feathers.  If you're on a
budget and just giving the impression of the look, why not just make
the crest shape out of cardboard and paint it red?

     There is a church near me that does a Bethlehem walk every other
year.  They actually had the soldiers from the reenactment group
volunteer to participate and harass the populace.  The only
difficulty is that hobnails are very slippery on linoleum.

     -Carol

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Off topic, way off_museum assistant position
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    Working in a museum as an educator, I know what these skills are, 
but don't proclaim to be an expert. Cataloging skills generally means 
knowledge of how to properly catalog an object for accession into a 
museum's collection. That is, a systematic way of describing objects 
that (ideally) allows others to understand the meaning, use, context, 
etc. of the item regardless of the institution. The most common naming 
system used in the US I beleive is Nomenclature. There may be other 
systems for costume collecting, but I don't know. For example, in our 
collection clothing is categorized as outerwear, underwear, footwear, 
accessory, etc. Then they might be in subcategories, such as dress, 
jacket, boot, etc. A dress could be listed as a dress, gown, wedding 
gown, jumper or uniform, depending on its use and the museum's system of 
cataloging. A system of cataloging is supposed to resolve confusion over 
whether something is an item of dress, a personal object, a tool, etc. 
While putting items in categories seems very straight forward, it can 
get very complicated since objects often have multiple uses. Is an item 
a work of art? A utilitarian item? Training or experience in cataloging 
helps a registar or curator figure out how to make these choices.
    Storage and safe handling: knowing when to lay a dress flat vs. hang 
it on a padded hanger; use of acid-free materials and proper humidity 
control; how to display and arrange clothing so that it is not damaged 
by light or movement--try dressing a 1950s mannequin with a 1850s dress 
and you will soon find that this requires a great deal of skill or 
proper display forms (speaking from experience here!) For non 
clothing--knowing which items might be made from hazardous or 
combustible materials and how to protect them, staff and the storage 
facility from any danger they might present.
    Hope this helps!
Anne

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Status: RO

On Wednesday 30 August 2006 11:52 am, Suzi Clarke wrote:
> At 16:33 30/08/2006, you wrote:
> >Yes, I'm starting to realize that my costume library from when I
> >studied costume history eons ago is full of inaccurate information.
> >Does anyone know of a comprehensive book on costume history that is
> >really good with lots of primary sources?
> >
> >Sylrog
>
> Francois Boucher "History of Costume in the Western World" is my
> favourite, with lots of text, great photos of garments, accessories,
> and paintings, although some are black and white. Mostly there is
> good dating and sources, i.e. Prado, V and A etc.

Boucher has a lot of great pictures, some you can't find anywhere else, but 
I've never been impressed by his text.  I wouldn't assign his book alone as 
course reading, but in conjunction with something like Tortora and Eubanks, 
it would be very helpful.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this wool flannel appropriate for any costuming uses?
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 19:21:07 -0400
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On Thursday 31 August 2006 9:24 am, Guenievre de Monmarche wrote:

[actually, I said:]

>   > I don't believe in wool gabardine for medieval clothing; it looks way
>   > too
>   > shiny, even if it is 100% wool.
>   >
>   > Fabric.com does have nice flannels from time to time, though the color
>   > choice
>   > is often too restricted for my taste.  The selection varies a lot; they
>   > often
>   > do have 100% wool melton and flannel, just not now (apparently).

[and Guenièvre replied:]

> Yes, but you can often "unshine" it by ignoring all the care instructions
> and washing it/drying it a couple times really roughly...

That will take care of the shine, I'm sure, though I'm not convinced that it 
will have the right hand or be thick enough when done.  I will defer, 
however, to the opinions of those who have tried it.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost



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