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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT....another Christmas Carol
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Status: RO

I'd be happy to share my script and song list  
with anyone wanting to recreate a Victorian parlour and present these  
terrific pieces--
Ruth Anne Baumgarter
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

I would love to have a copy of your production script!  I am always looking 
for something theatrical to do for that time that is not a straight Nativity 
play or just A Christmas Carol.
This would be something different enough to be new for most people.

Thanks a lot.

Donna Scarfe (Mistress Felicity)
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com

719 52nd Street
Des Moines, IA 50312
(515) 225-1830
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 15rh century embroidery site
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2006 01:36:42 -0500
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Which ones are your artwork?
De

-----Original Message-----
>> http://medieval.webcon.net.au/period_15th_c.html
>
>
It's a very nice extensive site ... a pity the site owner is still  
using some of my original art on it without attribution or permission  
after I directly asked for it to be removed.

Heather


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT....another Christmas Carol
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I would love to have copies if you still have them. Dickens Fair is coming
fast.
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 12:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT....another Christmas Carol


My theater did a costumed (impressions only, ca. 1860--no budget!)  
reading of excerpts from SEVEN Dickens holiday things--Christmas Carol,  
The Chimes, two of the Sketches by Boz (Christmas Dinner and The New  
Year), Mr Pickwick's "Good Humoured Christmas Chapter," and the  
description of Christmas preparations in "Edwin Drood." We interspersed  
seasonal music from Dickens' time, including a melodramatic piece he  
wrote lyrics to called "The Ivy Green." VERY good time was had by all,  
and many said it was a shame that the only Dickens usually mentioned at  
Christmas was CC. I had flirted with branching out to include "Birds'  
Christmas Carol" too--yes, a wonderful tear-jerker--and "The Little  
Match Girl"--but one can do only so much, and it was nice to keep the  
focus on Dickens anyway. I'd be happy to share my script and song list  
with anyone wanting to recreate a Victorian parlour and present these  
terrific pieces--hearing them read aloud demonstrates that Dickens  
wrote for that very possibility--they're very dramatic and lively in  
the mouth of a good actor....several of the audience, not relatives,  
came up and HUGGED the cast members afterward....!

--Ruth Anne Baumgarter
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Sep 29, 2006, at 11:58 AM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> Speaking of Christmas Carols....as a literary genre...
>
> Anyone ever read "The Bird's Christmas Carol"?
>
> I remember it being a real tear jerker from my childhood. It's from 
> the 1890's I believe. Lemme look up the author....
>
> Kate Douglas Wiggin
>
>
> Whoa! You can read the whole thing here:
>
> _http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/toccer-new2?
> id=WigBird.sgm&images=images/mod
> eng&data=/texts/english/modeng/parsed&tag=public&part=teiHeader_
> (http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/toccer-new2? 
> id=WigBird.sgm&images=images/modeng&data=/tex
> ts/english/modeng/parsed&tag=public&part=teiHeader)
>
> Very sentimental. Someone should dramatize and do it....just for a   
> change.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Yes please !
Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.,
where I'm already desperate for something new to 
do at Christmas.)

Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
> (snip)I'd be happy to share my script and song list
> with anyone wanting to recreate a Victorian parlour and present these 
> terrific pieces (snip)
> 
> --Ruth Anne Baumgarter
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.
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Hi,
Some years back, we had this topic up about wheather wheel farthingales was 
worn, or if they only used huge bumrolls.
The reason why i fell apun this quote, is, that i rarely read in Norah 
Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, just use the patterns. Today i read a little, 
and found this quote!


1617
"Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!)
Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse?
Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels?
That shelter all defects from head to heeles."
            Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams.

Whale bone wheels.......... How about that?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.
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On Sun, 1 Oct 2006, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Some years back, we had this topic up about wheather wheel
> farthingales was worn, or if they only used huge bumrolls.

For those who came in late, some of the conversation is preserved on my
webpage, here:

http://www.netherton.net/robin

(Every time this topic comes up, people ask for these posts, so I put them
all in in one place.)

And later conversations can be found by looking in the h-cost archives.

> The reason why i fell apun this quote, is, that i rarely read in Norah
> Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, just use the patterns. Today i read a
> little, and found this quote!
> 
> 1617
> "Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!)
> Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse?
> Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels?
> That shelter all defects from head to heeles."
>             Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams.
> 
> Whale bone wheels.......... How about that?

That's indeed one of the small handful of citations Verna and I collected
when we did our original research on this topic (which I do intend to get
into print in the next few years, now that I have a place to publish it,
but I have another paper to do first). It also has the distinction of
being the first reference to a "wheel" that we could find, and the only
one that dates from the period in which the style was worn. (The next one,
from a play, is from 1664, and makes passing reference to the
long-outdated fashion of "wheel vardingales.")

Given that it's a satirical poem, using metaphor and picturesque language,
I think we have to consider that the use of the word "wheel" could quite
easily have been a logical reference to the visual effect of the style, as
perceived by the viewer, rather than its construction. The term does not
seem to be used in tailor's bills, inventories, or other documents written
by who made, bought, or wore the garment -- those have large numbers of
references to rolls, but never "wheels" that I've seen. (I will confess
that I am relying on other people's research into such documents for these
references; I haven't done the inventory-crawling myself. I do have a
standing order for such references with various friends who have their
heads in these documents, in case they spot any.)

I suspect also this reference, or possibly the 1664 one, may be the source
for English-speaking costume historians of the 18th and 19th centuries
calling this a "wheel farthingale" -- so we have to be careful about
circular logic. That is, if Strutt in 1792 said "this is called a wheel"
because of two mentions in literature, and thus costume historians have
since then assumed it was *built* in the form of a wheel, we don't want to
now say that the same citations (the source of the term) prove the
assumptions people have created based on that term.

Of more interest is the reference to whalebone. We know that whalebone was
used in corsets at this point. There are some inventory references to
whalebone being bought and used for farthingales, too, from at least the
1590s and later.

However, it does appear that whalebone was also used in the construction
of rolls. Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts describe rolls made of such
fabric as damask, buckram, taffeta, and holland cloth, stuffed with cotton
wool, and supported with whalebone, bent, or wire. (For citations
regarding materials used in farthingales, see Arnold, _QEWU_, p. 196-198,
and the Cunningtons' _Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth
Century_, p. 161). A 1588 essay by Montaigne, as translated into English
by John Florio in 1603, also mentions stuffing in combination with
stiffening, referring to "stiffe bumbasted verdugals" ("bombasted" meaning
"stuffed," so these were clearly rolls). (Montaigne is also quoted in
Waugh, page 28.)

None of the references specify just how those supports/stiffeners were
used. They may have been used inside the roll to help hold its form, or
they may have been placed on the surface. Verna and I found that boning
around the outer channel of the roll was useful but not necessary; we
didn't try boning on the inner edge (that is, against the waist) or as an
interior support. It may be that the need for interior boning would become
more obvious with constant wearing of a farthingale, something we have not
done; I can imagine that a farthingale with a circular bone around the
edge would hold its shape better over time.

So we aren't sure about how the stiffening material is used in the rolls.
What is clear, though, is that whalebone was used at least sometimes in
rolls. The rolls are particularly well-documented as being referred to as
"farthingales" in this period. "Wheels" is not a term that appears in
these contexts, just in occasional male writer's poetic descriptions (and
only one of those so far found from the period of the style). So, we
didn't want to rest a case for a boned wheel construction on that one
reference.

Always happy to hear more evidence, though. We did try for a very long
time to find support for the wheel construction ... that was how we
started on this project. Everything we found, though, was consistent with
the roll interpretation, which became stronger and stronger even as the
"wheel" interpretation became weaker and weaker in the face of so many
other references.

Not trying to pick a fight here, just reporting what we've found so far.
And there may be other data points to throw into the mix. I'd much rather
get such bits and pieces of evidence before I write up a paper than after
the fact, so if anyone has any other citations, etc. that would shed light
on the wheel/roll thing, please let me know. Hypotheses are not set in
stone; they need to be adjusted to match the data as it's assembled.

--Robin



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Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2006 13:38:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT....another Christmas Carol
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yes, I would be interested as well.  Thanks.  KP
  

"Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
  I would love to have copies if you still have them. Dickens Fair is coming
fast.
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 12:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT....another Christmas Carol


My theater did a costumed (impressions only, ca. 1860--no budget!) 
reading of excerpts from SEVEN Dickens holiday things--Christmas Carol, 
The Chimes, two of the Sketches by Boz (Christmas Dinner and The New 
Year), Mr Pickwick's "Good Humoured Christmas Chapter," and the 
description of Christmas preparations in "Edwin Drood." We interspersed 
seasonal music from Dickens' time, including a melodramatic piece he 
wrote lyrics to called "The Ivy Green." VERY good time was had by all, 
and many said it was a shame that the only Dickens usually mentioned at 
Christmas was CC. I had flirted with branching out to include "Birds' 
Christmas Carol" too--yes, a wonderful tear-jerker--and "The Little 
Match Girl"--but one can do only so much, and it was nice to keep the 
focus on Dickens anyway. I'd be happy to share my script and song list 
with anyone wanting to recreate a Victorian parlour and present these 
terrific pieces--hearing them read aloud demonstrates that Dickens 
wrote for that very possibility--they're very dramatic and lively in 
the mouth of a good actor....several of the audience, not relatives, 
came up and HUGGED the cast members afterward....!

--Ruth Anne Baumgarter
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Sep 29, 2006, at 11:58 AM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> Speaking of Christmas Carols....as a literary genre...
>
> Anyone ever read "The Bird's Christmas Carol"?
>
> I remember it being a real tear jerker from my childhood. It's from 
> the 1890's I believe. Lemme look up the author....
>
> Kate Douglas Wiggin
>
>
> Whoa! You can read the whole thing here:
>
> _http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/toccer-new2?
> id=WigBird.sgm&images=images/mod
> eng&data=/texts/english/modeng/parsed&tag=public&part=teiHeader_
> (http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/toccer-new2? 
> id=WigBird.sgm&images=images/modeng&data=/tex
> ts/english/modeng/parsed&tag=public&part=teiHeader)
>
> Very sentimental. Someone should dramatize and do it....just for a 
> change.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Status: RO

Thank you Bjarne!  I hadn't noticed that one!

Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 3:37 PM
Subject: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.


> Hi,
> Some years back, we had this topic up about wheather wheel farthingales 
> was worn, or if they only used huge bumrolls.
> The reason why i fell apun this quote, is, that i rarely read in Norah 
> Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, just use the patterns. Today i read a 
> little, and found this quote!
>
>
> 1617
> "Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!)
> Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse?
> Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels?
> That shelter all defects from head to heeles."
>            Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams.
>
> Whale bone wheels.......... How about that?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.
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Status: RO

Robin,
How did you build your roll/wheel in the end?  I was liking the idea of a 
wheel farthingale, but can't seem to get the right look yet.  I have a wheel 
supported by a large roll, but the outer edge collapses.

Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.


>
> On Sun, 1 Oct 2006, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> Some years back, we had this topic up about wheather wheel
>> farthingales was worn, or if they only used huge bumrolls.
>
> For those who came in late, some of the conversation is preserved on my
> webpage, here:
>
> http://www.netherton.net/robin
>
> (Every time this topic comes up, people ask for these posts, so I put them
> all in in one place.)
>
> And later conversations can be found by looking in the h-cost archives.
>
>> The reason why i fell apun this quote, is, that i rarely read in Norah
>> Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, just use the patterns. Today i read a
>> little, and found this quote!
>>
>> 1617
>> "Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!)
>> Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse?
>> Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels?
>> That shelter all defects from head to heeles."
>>             Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams.
>>
>> Whale bone wheels.......... How about that?
>
> That's indeed one of the small handful of citations Verna and I collected
> when we did our original research on this topic (which I do intend to get
> into print in the next few years, now that I have a place to publish it,
> but I have another paper to do first). It also has the distinction of
> being the first reference to a "wheel" that we could find, and the only
> one that dates from the period in which the style was worn. (The next one,
> from a play, is from 1664, and makes passing reference to the
> long-outdated fashion of "wheel vardingales.")
>
> Given that it's a satirical poem, using metaphor and picturesque language,
> I think we have to consider that the use of the word "wheel" could quite
> easily have been a logical reference to the visual effect of the style, as
> perceived by the viewer, rather than its construction. The term does not
> seem to be used in tailor's bills, inventories, or other documents written
> by who made, bought, or wore the garment -- those have large numbers of
> references to rolls, but never "wheels" that I've seen. (I will confess
> that I am relying on other people's research into such documents for these
> references; I haven't done the inventory-crawling myself. I do have a
> standing order for such references with various friends who have their
> heads in these documents, in case they spot any.)
>
> I suspect also this reference, or possibly the 1664 one, may be the source
> for English-speaking costume historians of the 18th and 19th centuries
> calling this a "wheel farthingale" -- so we have to be careful about
> circular logic. That is, if Strutt in 1792 said "this is called a wheel"
> because of two mentions in literature, and thus costume historians have
> since then assumed it was *built* in the form of a wheel, we don't want to
> now say that the same citations (the source of the term) prove the
> assumptions people have created based on that term.
>
> Of more interest is the reference to whalebone. We know that whalebone was
> used in corsets at this point. There are some inventory references to
> whalebone being bought and used for farthingales, too, from at least the
> 1590s and later.
>
> However, it does appear that whalebone was also used in the construction
> of rolls. Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts describe rolls made of such
> fabric as damask, buckram, taffeta, and holland cloth, stuffed with cotton
> wool, and supported with whalebone, bent, or wire. (For citations
> regarding materials used in farthingales, see Arnold, _QEWU_, p. 196-198,
> and the Cunningtons' _Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth
> Century_, p. 161). A 1588 essay by Montaigne, as translated into English
> by John Florio in 1603, also mentions stuffing in combination with
> stiffening, referring to "stiffe bumbasted verdugals" ("bombasted" meaning
> "stuffed," so these were clearly rolls). (Montaigne is also quoted in
> Waugh, page 28.)
>
> None of the references specify just how those supports/stiffeners were
> used. They may have been used inside the roll to help hold its form, or
> they may have been placed on the surface. Verna and I found that boning
> around the outer channel of the roll was useful but not necessary; we
> didn't try boning on the inner edge (that is, against the waist) or as an
> interior support. It may be that the need for interior boning would become
> more obvious with constant wearing of a farthingale, something we have not
> done; I can imagine that a farthingale with a circular bone around the
> edge would hold its shape better over time.
>
> So we aren't sure about how the stiffening material is used in the rolls.
> What is clear, though, is that whalebone was used at least sometimes in
> rolls. The rolls are particularly well-documented as being referred to as
> "farthingales" in this period. "Wheels" is not a term that appears in
> these contexts, just in occasional male writer's poetic descriptions (and
> only one of those so far found from the period of the style). So, we
> didn't want to rest a case for a boned wheel construction on that one
> reference.
>
> Always happy to hear more evidence, though. We did try for a very long
> time to find support for the wheel construction ... that was how we
> started on this project. Everything we found, though, was consistent with
> the roll interpretation, which became stronger and stronger even as the
> "wheel" interpretation became weaker and weaker in the face of so many
> other references.
>
> Not trying to pick a fight here, just reporting what we've found so far.
> And there may be other data points to throw into the mix. I'd much rather
> get such bits and pieces of evidence before I write up a paper than after
> the fact, so if anyone has any other citations, etc. that would shed light
> on the wheel/roll thing, please let me know. Hypotheses are not set in
> stone; they need to be adjusted to match the data as it's assembled.
>
> --Robin
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10610011338060.26025-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.
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Status: RO

Hi Robin,
Yes you are right. I just thoaght it was obvious, that the support used for 
these styles, could very well have ben a wheel of whalebone at the top.
Thats what i associated it to. But it could also be translated to 
farthingales was made of wheels of whalebone, cone shaped, but also drum 
shaped.
The term wheel of whalebone, could be both a coneshaped farthingale, and a 
drum shaped farthingale.
Just my two cents.
But i wished there was more evidens somewhere.
In Denmark i have read old describtions, in german, (courtpeople spoke 
german in Denmark) and the word is utstopfte magen wich can be translated to 
stuffed stomachers, this could maybe be a refference to a piececot belly, 
and has nothing to do with a farthingale, its very strange. The spanish word 
vertugale is used in Denmark.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.


>
> On Sun, 1 Oct 2006, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> Some years back, we had this topic up about wheather wheel
>> farthingales was worn, or if they only used huge bumrolls.
>
> For those who came in late, some of the conversation is preserved on my
> webpage, here:
>
> http://www.netherton.net/robin
>
> (Every time this topic comes up, people ask for these posts, so I put them
> all in in one place.)
>
> And later conversations can be found by looking in the h-cost archives.
>
>> The reason why i fell apun this quote, is, that i rarely read in Norah
>> Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, just use the patterns. Today i read a
>> little, and found this quote!
>>
>> 1617
>> "Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!)
>> Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse?
>> Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels?
>> That shelter all defects from head to heeles."
>>             Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams.
>>
>> Whale bone wheels.......... How about that?
>
> That's indeed one of the small handful of citations Verna and I collected
> when we did our original research on this topic (which I do intend to get
> into print in the next few years, now that I have a place to publish it,
> but I have another paper to do first). It also has the distinction of
> being the first reference to a "wheel" that we could find, and the only
> one that dates from the period in which the style was worn. (The next one,
> from a play, is from 1664, and makes passing reference to the
> long-outdated fashion of "wheel vardingales.")
>
> Given that it's a satirical poem, using metaphor and picturesque language,
> I think we have to consider that the use of the word "wheel" could quite
> easily have been a logical reference to the visual effect of the style, as
> perceived by the viewer, rather than its construction. The term does not
> seem to be used in tailor's bills, inventories, or other documents written
> by who made, bought, or wore the garment -- those have large numbers of
> references to rolls, but never "wheels" that I've seen. (I will confess
> that I am relying on other people's research into such documents for these
> references; I haven't done the inventory-crawling myself. I do have a
> standing order for such references with various friends who have their
> heads in these documents, in case they spot any.)
>
> I suspect also this reference, or possibly the 1664 one, may be the source
> for English-speaking costume historians of the 18th and 19th centuries
> calling this a "wheel farthingale" -- so we have to be careful about
> circular logic. That is, if Strutt in 1792 said "this is called a wheel"
> because of two mentions in literature, and thus costume historians have
> since then assumed it was *built* in the form of a wheel, we don't want to
> now say that the same citations (the source of the term) prove the
> assumptions people have created based on that term.
>
> Of more interest is the reference to whalebone. We know that whalebone was
> used in corsets at this point. There are some inventory references to
> whalebone being bought and used for farthingales, too, from at least the
> 1590s and later.
>
> However, it does appear that whalebone was also used in the construction
> of rolls. Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts describe rolls made of such
> fabric as damask, buckram, taffeta, and holland cloth, stuffed with cotton
> wool, and supported with whalebone, bent, or wire. (For citations
> regarding materials used in farthingales, see Arnold, _QEWU_, p. 196-198,
> and the Cunningtons' _Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth
> Century_, p. 161). A 1588 essay by Montaigne, as translated into English
> by John Florio in 1603, also mentions stuffing in combination with
> stiffening, referring to "stiffe bumbasted verdugals" ("bombasted" meaning
> "stuffed," so these were clearly rolls). (Montaigne is also quoted in
> Waugh, page 28.)
>
> None of the references specify just how those supports/stiffeners were
> used. They may have been used inside the roll to help hold its form, or
> they may have been placed on the surface. Verna and I found that boning
> around the outer channel of the roll was useful but not necessary; we
> didn't try boning on the inner edge (that is, against the waist) or as an
> interior support. It may be that the need for interior boning would become
> more obvious with constant wearing of a farthingale, something we have not
> done; I can imagine that a farthingale with a circular bone around the
> edge would hold its shape better over time.
>
> So we aren't sure about how the stiffening material is used in the rolls.
> What is clear, though, is that whalebone was used at least sometimes in
> rolls. The rolls are particularly well-documented as being referred to as
> "farthingales" in this period. "Wheels" is not a term that appears in
> these contexts, just in occasional male writer's poetic descriptions (and
> only one of those so far found from the period of the style). So, we
> didn't want to rest a case for a boned wheel construction on that one
> reference.
>
> Always happy to hear more evidence, though. We did try for a very long
> time to find support for the wheel construction ... that was how we
> started on this project. Everything we found, though, was consistent with
> the roll interpretation, which became stronger and stronger even as the
> "wheel" interpretation became weaker and weaker in the face of so many
> other references.
>
> Not trying to pick a fight here, just reporting what we've found so far.
> And there may be other data points to throw into the mix. I'd much rather
> get such bits and pieces of evidence before I write up a paper than after
> the fact, so if anyone has any other citations, etc. that would shed light
> on the wheel/roll thing, please let me know. Hypotheses are not set in
> stone; they need to be adjusted to match the data as it's assembled.
>
> --Robin
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.
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On Mon, 2 Oct 2006, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> The term wheel of whalebone, could be both a coneshaped farthingale,
> and a drum shaped farthingale.

Hmm, I hadn't even thought about the cone-shaped ("Spanish") farthingales.
How late were the cone-shaped farthingales worn? I had the impression they
were disappearing in England by the 1580s or so. England tends to lag
behind France, and France had the roll first, but I don't have any idea
about the rest of Europe. Of course the authors in this case were English
anyway.

> In Denmark i have read old describtions, in german, (courtpeople spoke
> german in Denmark) and the word is utstopfte magen wich can be
> translated to stuffed stomachers, this could maybe be a refference to
> a piececot belly, and has nothing to do with a farthingale, its very
> strange. The spanish word vertugale is used in Denmark.

I have absolutely no German, so if you do find something on this line, I'd
love to know! Drea probably would be interested, too, and she's done a lot
of work with German Renaissance documents. I'll pass this on to her.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] need suggestions for "campy" 18th century costumes
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Greetings, all.

I am helping with a fundraiser for the March of Dimes.  It's a silent 
auction/live auction/dancing/socializing event, and the theme is "Let 
Them Eat Cake", in the style of Marie Antoinette.  Instead of catered 
dinner, the food will be desserts.  So we are trying to play up the 
frothy, festive, over-the-top attitude.  I need to dress about 6 actors 
in the style, but I want to make the costumes less cumbersome, and 
hopefully easier to do than "real" 18C.

Please and thank you: I need ideas from all you guys - any suggestions 
are welcome!   Anyhoo - I'm thinking of having my women wear fishnets 
and dance trunks, and constructing some sort of pannier/skirt to tie 
around the waist.  What movie am I thinking of (or play?) that had 
panniers made of some king of sparkly tubing, worn without an 
overskirt?  Aaaargh.  And how can I make some "easy" corsets in the 
same style?

I've got $5 long blonde wigs from WalMart which i can build into the 
extreme style I want, using tulle to add volume.  But please put on 
your thinking caps for the rest of the garb.  (I need suggestions for 
men's garb as well.)

TIA from a grateful fellow garbwhore.

Allison P.
allison@aristotle.net

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Hi all,

  Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent
site went?  Every one of the pages I had bookmarked
from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not
getting a site when I try googling for the main site.
Help?
                         
                               Cassandra

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http://www.elizabethancostume.net/
and links off from there

Sarah Paterson
----- Original Message ----- 

> Hi all,
> 
>  Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent
> site went?  Every one of the pages I had bookmarked
> from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not
> getting a site when I try googling for the main site.
> Help?
>                         
>                               Cassandra
> 
> __________________________________________________
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> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 12:16:37 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drea Leeds site
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Cascio Michael wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>  Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent
>site went?  Every one of the pages I had bookmarked
>from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not
>getting a site when I try googling for the main site.
>Help?
>

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15rh century embroidery site
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2006 14:24:25 -0700
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On Sep 30, 2006, at 11:36 PM, otsisto wrote:
> -----Original Message-----
>>> http://medieval.webcon.net.au/period_15th_c.html
>>
>>
> It's a very nice extensive site ... a pity the site owner is still
> using some of my original art on it without attribution or permission
> after I directly asked for it to be removed.
>
> Heather

> Which ones are your artwork?
> De
>

The line drawings of the motifs on the Mammen page (10th c. Denmark).

Heather

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] need suggestions for "campy" 18th century costumes
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Well, nothing is easier than making wide pannier gowns look like a  decorated 
cake....
 
As far as corsets go...If the front is good and stiff, you can just bone  the 
seams in the back. Remember, cable ties are available for boning at your  
local Lowe's and Home Depot. There's a very heavy pellon that stands by itself I  
got at Jo Ann's once and mad a brimmed hat from. You could put that in the 
front  of the corset with a bone just here and there. And you can hoop the 
skirts  themselves, as opposed to a skirt over a hoop. 
I remember seeing Las Vegas outfits like this, sans underskirt so you could  
see the legs. Lots of big cupids and birds on the skirts, the stomachers  and 
in the tall wigs. Be sure to check the craft store as well as  the hardware 
store!
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http://www.elizabethancostume.net/



Cascio Michael wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
>   Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent
> site went?  Every one of the pages I had bookmarked
> from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not
> getting a site when I try googling for the main site.
> Help?
>                          
>                                Cassandra

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Put them in skirts, but instead of panniers, make "fake panniers" using half
rounds of material. If you put the straight part of the half circle on the
selvage, you don't even have to hem. Gather the round edge and if that is
too flat, "pouf" with nylon net, just like you're planning with the wigs.
That way, your actors can move easily around crowded tables. Are you making
the decorations on the wigs look like pastries and petit fours?
For the men, stick them in women's' crop pants. You can probably get them at
a thrift store. Since this is fro charity, is there a local tuxedo store
that will let you borrow colored jackets? You could whip stitch or even pin
on fancy trim and big cuffs.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Allison
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 1:32 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] need suggestions for "campy" 18th century costumes


Greetings, all.

I am helping with a fundraiser for the March of Dimes.  It's a silent 
auction/live auction/dancing/socializing event, and the theme is "Let 
Them Eat Cake", in the style of Marie Antoinette.  Instead of catered 
dinner, the food will be desserts.  So we are trying to play up the 
frothy, festive, over-the-top attitude.  I need to dress about 6 actors 
in the style, but I want to make the costumes less cumbersome, and 
hopefully easier to do than "real" 18C.

Please and thank you: I need ideas from all you guys - any suggestions 
are welcome!   Anyhoo - I'm thinking of having my women wear fishnets 
and dance trunks, and constructing some sort of pannier/skirt to tie 
around the waist.  What movie am I thinking of (or play?) that had 
panniers made of some king of sparkly tubing, worn without an 
overskirt?  Aaaargh.  And how can I make some "easy" corsets in the 
same style?

I've got $5 long blonde wigs from WalMart which i can build into the 
extreme style I want, using tulle to add volume.  But please put on 
your thinking caps for the rest of the garb.  (I need suggestions for 
men's garb as well.)

TIA from a grateful fellow garbwhore.

Allison P.
allison@aristotle.net

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.
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On Sun, 1 Oct 2006, kelly grant wrote:

> How did you build your roll/wheel in the end?  I was liking the idea
> of a wheel farthingale, but can't seem to get the right look yet.  I
> have a wheel supported by a large roll, but the outer edge collapses.

No wheel, just a roll. See more detailed discussion at the link I cited
earlier, where I've saved a bunch of posts I wrote about this some years
ago:

> > http://www.netherton.net/robin

Find the link for posts on the wheel farthingale.

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.
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On Sun, 1 Oct 2006, E House wrote:

> The 'head to heeles' part does suggest a farthingale to me, I must
> say, but as others have suggested, the farthingale seems like it would
> be, at the least, less than fashionable in 1617

The Spanish farthingale would have been long out of style. The French
farthingale, which created the wheel-like visual effect, would be just
starting to become passe at court, and it was still worn by lesser-born
women into the 1620s.

> On the other side of the argument, though, what about that drawing
> seen in Waugh's C&C, of the dancers wearing wheels around their waist?  
> Or would you say those are for dancers only?

Whether they're wheels, exactly, is up for discussion, as is how they are
made (they might be bones in casings, or they might be a series of
connected small rolls, or a quilted pad, or lord knows what else). But
what is certain is that this is stage costume. For men. Doing a dance
performance. In a parody on the theme of deception. In 1625, by which
point the fashion was laughably out of date at court and possibly cause
for derision in and of itself. Given that this puts us four or five times
removed from reality, and given the lack of any corroborating evidence
whatsoever, I am not so optimistic as Waugh to assume that these are
realistic representations of what real women were wearing in court in the
early 1600s.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.
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----- Original Message ----- 
> 1617
> "Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!)
> Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse?
> Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels?
> That shelter all defects from head to heeles."
>             Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams.

The 'head to heeles' part does suggest a farthingale to me, I must say, but 
as others have suggested, the farthingale seems like it would be, at the 
least, less than fashionable in 1617  Given the nature of the book, it's 
perfectly possible that the verse being quoted is not originally from 1617, 
though.  After a quick look to see when a periwig would have been worn, I 
was surprised to find the word's origin in the 1520s, and less surprised 
that wigs were popular during Elizabeth's reign.  And to be unintentionally 
coarse, wouldn't a farthingale collapsed on the floor look like a wheel?

On the other side of the argument, though, what about that drawing seen in 
Waugh's C&C, of the dancers wearing wheels around their waist?  Or would you 
say those are for dancers only?

-E House 

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I just got a note from the publisher that this is scheduled to be published 
May 2007.

Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward. Maney Pub. (2006). 
Clothbound with full colour dustjacket, ca 384 pages with ca 150 b&w and 30 
colour illustrations. ISBN 1 904350 70 4. 
http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=show&fwid=649

"Henry VIII used his wardrobe, and that of his family and household, as a 
way of expressing his wealth and magnificence. This book will encompass the 
first detailed study of male and female dress worn at the court of Henry 
VIII (1509-47) and will cover the dress of the king and his immediate 
family, the royal household and the broader court circle consisting of the 
nobility and clergy.

Evidence will be drawn primarily from the Great Wardrobe accounts, wardrobe 
warrants, and inventories, and it will be interpreted using evidence from 
narrative sources, paintings, drawings and surviving garments. Key areas 
for consideration will include the cut and construction of garments, 
materials and colours, the function of livery and the hierarchy of dress 
amongst the social elite, and the network of craftsmen and merchants 
working for the court. "

Maria Hayward (FSA, Reader in Textile Conservation, University of 
Southampton, UK) is also Assistant Editor of Costume - Journal of The 
Costume Society  

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drea Leeds site
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Try http://www.elizabethancostume.net/

I just got to it.

Edlyn

Cascio Michael wrote:
> Hi all,
>
>   Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent
> site went?  Every one of the pages I had bookmarked
> from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not
> getting a site when I try googling for the main site.
> Help?
>                          
>                                Cassandra
>
>   
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] need suggestions for "campy" 18th century costumes
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Allison wrote:

> 
> Please and thank you: I need ideas from all you guys - any suggestions 
> are welcome!   Anyhoo - I'm thinking of having my women wear fishnets 
> and dance trunks, and constructing some sort of pannier/skirt to tie 
> around the waist.  What movie am I thinking of (or play?) that had 
> panniers made of some king of sparkly tubing, worn without an 
> overskirt?  Aaaargh.  And how can I make some "easy" corsets in the same 
> style?
> 

One of the 'Big 3' pattern companies has panniers and corsets of the 
period. They should be relatively easy to make up in some of the 
outrageous halloween fabrics that are out there now.


Dawn

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: [h-cost] APOLOGIES re OT....another Christmas Carol
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 10:44:49 -0400
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Greetings all:

Sorry to send the Dickens stuff to the whole list. I had been  
scrupulously replying individually to individual requests, but this  
morning, half-asleep, I got another request....I just hit "reply" and  
didn't check where the reply was going. I haven't received the reply  
myself, so maybe the NO-ATTACHMENTS rule has prevented indiscriminate  
distribution--BUT if you should get some Dickens files you didn't ask  
for, I apologize in advance.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
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Subject: [h-cost] book recomondation
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Yesterday i had a meeting with a lady from Hamburg in Germany, whom i am 
making the new anglaise dress for.
She gave me some wonderfull gifts.
One of them, i would really recomend to read for those of you who loves the 
18th century. Delany was one of the finest embroiderers of England, and she 
embroidered her own court mantua. This books have some pictures of her 
embroidery and her letters are full of describtions about fashion trough 
large parts of the century. She was born early in the century, and died more 
than 80 years old. I have already read large parts of the book, it is lovely 
reading!
Here is a link to it       http://tinyurl.co.uk/e7v7
The other gift i got was a lovely pillow cover embroidered with whitework 
and edged with esquisite lace. Its real antique 18th century. It has a kind 
of "shadow work" where the bottom is filled out with french knots, and 
believe me if i  tell you, that these are so tiny, you wouldnt imagine it! 
Their needles must have ben very tiny, the finest i have, would be 10 times 
as big. Finally i got a real coin from the time of Christian VII its from 
1787, what do you say?

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 15rh century embroidery site
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2006 22:09:00 -0500
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> -----Original Message-----
>>> http://medieval.webcon.net.au/period_15th_c.html
>>
 Which ones are your artwork?
> De
>

The line drawings of the motifs on the Mammen page (10th c. Denmark).

Heather

Ah, I see. I remember the site that this info comes from.
Could this person have mistaken the rendering of the fragments as a part of
the display of the fragments from the museum?

Did you get to see the fragments up close? The last drawing is interesting
in that there isn't consistancy.

De



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Greetings--

Cascio Michael wrote:
> Hi all,
>
>   Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent
> site went?  Every one of the pages I had bookmarked
> from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not
> getting a site when I try googling for the main site.
> Help?
>   
Try this....
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/index.html

Got it by googling "Drea Leed".

Susan
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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drea Leeds site
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Here you go:

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/


 
Anabella Wake (aka dona Bella Lucia da Verona)
The Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/



----- Original Message ----
From: Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Monday, 2 October, 2006 8:35:04 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Drea Leeds site


Hi all,

  Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent
site went?  Every one of the pages I had bookmarked
from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not
getting a site when I try googling for the main site.
Help?
                         
                               Cassandra


		
____________________________________________________ 
On Yahoo!7 
Break a world record with Total Girl's World˘s Largest Slumber Party
http://www.totalgirl.com.au/slumberparty
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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] book recomondation
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At 17:09 02/10/2006, you wrote:
>Yesterday i had a meeting with a lady from Hamburg in Germany, whom 
>i am making the new anglaise dress for.
>She gave me some wonderfull gifts.
>One of them, i would really recomend to read for those of you who 
>loves the 18th century. Delany was one of the finest embroiderers of 
>England, and she embroidered her own court mantua. This books have 
>some pictures of her embroidery and her letters are full of 
>describtions about fashion trough large parts of the century. She 
>was born early in the century, and died more than 80 years old. I 
>have already read large parts of the book, it is lovely reading!
>Here is a link to it       http://tinyurl.co.uk/e7v7
>The other gift i got was a lovely pillow cover embroidered with 
>whitework and edged with esquisite lace. Its real antique 18th 
>century. It has a kind of "shadow work" where the bottom is filled 
>out with french knots, and believe me if i  tell you, that these are 
>so tiny, you wouldnt imagine it! Their needles must have ben very 
>tiny, the finest i have, would be 10 times as big. Finally i got a 
>real coin from the time of Christian VII its from 1787, what do you say?
>
>Bjarne
>

Bjarne

Thanks for that - I've just ordered a copy from Amazon to go with the 
18th century embroidery book!

Suzi


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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 09:53:45 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wikipedia as source
In-Reply-To: <7d21ac190609301856q56076876v74bce64791c972bf@mail.gmail.com>
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Status: RO

I agree with using Wikipedia as a jumping-off point. I put it right in
line with R. Wilcox Turner and just above the Peacock and Tierney
books, in that someone who doesn't quite know what they want can look
through them and point to a silhouette and say, that's what I'm
looking for. Then you go to a reliable source or three and get the
correct pictures.

Lynnd

On 9/30/06, A. Thurman <athurman@gmail.com> wrote:
> On 9/29/06, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> >
> > Message: 8
> > Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2006 16:43:57 -0400
> > From: "Penny" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Wikipedia as a source
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <001d01c6e429$6cf42710$6400a8c0@momlaptop>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> >         reply-type=response
> >
> > Someone used Wikipedia as a source in a message, so I thought I would add my
> > two cents...
> >
> > Wikipedia is not really a good source.  If a college student quotes
> > Wikipedia, they lose points.  Wikipedia can be edited or information added
> > by anyone.  The website started as a copy of a 1910s? encyclopedia that was
> > put online.  The owner of the site, decided to let anyone update the
> > information.
>
> Agreed, Wikipedia isn't considered a good source. However, I would put
> forth that it's a good starting place for more indepth research, as
> their entries often provide references to academic websites and books.
>
> In other words, what someone else said about finding backup - if
> something piques your interest on Wikipedia, be sure and find
> confirmation before accepting any of it as fact.
> >
> > Penny Ladnier,
> > Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> > www.costumegallery.com
> > www.costumelibrary.com
> > www.costumeclassroom.com
> > www.costumeencyclopedia.com
> >
>
> Allison T.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] book: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Beth and Bob Matney" <bmatney@alltel.net>
> Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward. Maney Pub. (2006). 
> Clothbound with full colour dustjacket, ca 384 pages with ca 150 b&w and 
> 30 colour illustrations. ISBN 1 904350 70 4. 
> http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=show&fwid=649


Any idea how much the book will cost?  I'd like to put my name on the 
reserve list, but I don't want to feel obligated to buy a $200 book!

-E House

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] book recomondation
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Hi Bjarne.

The 18th century isn't my area of interest, but the gifts that your client 
gave you sound amazing! Any chance that you might put pictures up of the 
needles (with a modern needle to compare it to) and of the pillow? I just 
*love* pretty pillows! :-)

With regards,
ailith

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 12:09 PM
Subject: [h-cost] book recomondation


> Yesterday i had a meeting with a lady from Hamburg in Germany, whom i am 
> making the new anglaise dress for.
> She gave me some wonderfull gifts.
> One of them, i would really recomend to read for those of you who loves 
> the 18th century. Delany was one of the finest embroiderers of England, 
> and she embroidered her own court mantua. This books have some pictures of 
> her embroidery and her letters are full of describtions about fashion 
> trough large parts of the century. She was born early in the century, and 
> died more than 80 years old. I have already read large parts of the book, 
> it is lovely reading!
> Here is a link to it       http://tinyurl.co.uk/e7v7
> The other gift i got was a lovely pillow cover embroidered with whitework 
> and edged with esquisite lace. Its real antique 18th century. It has a 
> kind of "shadow work" where the bottom is filled out with french knots, 
> and believe me if i  tell you, that these are so tiny, you wouldnt imagine 
> it! Their needles must have ben very tiny, the finest i have, would be 10 
> times as big. Finally i got a real coin from the time of Christian VII its 
> from 1787, what do you say?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Ooh, will have to look for this...what do they look like?  Do they have that "typical" black and white cardboard cover, or are they plastic covered
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Cynthia J Ley<mailto:cley@juno.com> 
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Cc: lherr@rightwaybusiness.com<mailto:lherr@rightwaybusiness.com> ; cameronfamily3@juno.com<mailto:cameronfamily3@juno.com> ; antir-costumers@antir.sca.org<mailto:antir-costumers@antir.sca.org> ; brenna14@comcast.net<mailto:brenna14@comcast.net> 
  Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 2:32 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] neat idea for those who draft


  Hi all. Was in Office Max today (in the States) and came across something
  kind of cool. Mead is making composition books where have the page is in
  quadrille form and the other half is college ruled for notes. Handy thing
  for all of us who do embroidery and pattern drafting!

  Arlys
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Subject: [h-cost] Dark (Darth?) Maul costume (OT?)
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Status: RO

Hi all, I know think this may be a little OT - (not sure how old the movie is).  I was wondering if any of you knew which Star Wars movie this character is in?  My nephew wants to be him (it?) for Halloween.  I wanted to rent the movie to see what he wears under his cape...wooo wooo!

Thanks,

Sg\

P.S.  Is it Dark or Darth Maul?  What's his story anyway?
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Dark (Darth?) Maul costume (OT?)
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Oooh, I found some stuff on him...I had looked before, but not seen this site. 

http://www.dmeb2.org/main/index.html<http://www.dmeb2.org/main/index.html>

I'd still be interested in any additional stuff anyone knows...but better to take it off list...I think it can't count as "historic" since isn't the Sith series rather new?
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Saragrace Knauf<mailto:wickedfrau@msn.com> 
  To: h-costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 10:42 AM
  Subject: Dark (Darth?) Maul costume (OT?)


  Hi all, I know think this may be a little OT - (not sure how old the movie is).  I was wondering if any of you knew which Star Wars movie this character is in?  My nephew wants to be him (it?) for Halloween.  I wanted to rent the movie to see what he wears under his cape...wooo wooo!

  Thanks,

  Sg\

  P.S.  Is it Dark or Darth Maul?  What's his story anyway?
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Oct  2 14:01:08 2006
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From: traci@crimsonvision.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Dark (Darth?) Maul costume (OT?)
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 17:58:59 +0000
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It's 'Darth'.  :)  Here are a few links to help:

Some good closeup pics and info on his costume (including whats under the robe): http://www.padawansguide.com/maul.shtml

A messageboard with losts of costumers and info; be sure to check the 'READ THIS FIRST' thread first: http://boards.theforce.net/costuming_and_props/b10019/p1

Hope that helps!
Traci

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Saragrace Knauf 
> To: h-costume 
> Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 10:42 AM 
> Subject: Dark (Darth?) Maul costume (OT?) 
> 
> 
> Hi all, I know think this may be a little OT - (not sure how old the movie 
> is). I was wondering if any of you knew which Star Wars movie this character is 
> in? My nephew wants to be him (it?) for Halloween. I wanted to rent the movie 
> to see what he wears under his cape...wooo wooo! 
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Sg\ 
> 
> P.S. Is it Dark or Darth Maul? What's his story anyway? 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
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Hi,
Yes i wouldnt mind post some pictures of the pillow cover, but i think you 
misunderstood me with the needle.
I just ment, looking at the fine embroidery, that they must have used tiny 
tiny needles, to make it, much smaller than the needles we use 
today................

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] book recomondation


> Hi Bjarne.
>
> The 18th century isn't my area of interest, but the gifts that your client 
> gave you sound amazing! Any chance that you might put pictures up of the 
> needles (with a modern needle to compare it to) and of the pillow? I just 
> *love* pretty pillows! :-)
>
> With regards,
> ailith
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 12:09 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] book recomondation
>
>
>> Yesterday i had a meeting with a lady from Hamburg in Germany, whom i am 
>> making the new anglaise dress for.
>> She gave me some wonderfull gifts.
>> One of them, i would really recomend to read for those of you who loves 
>> the 18th century. Delany was one of the finest embroiderers of England, 
>> and she embroidered her own court mantua. This books have some pictures 
>> of her embroidery and her letters are full of describtions about fashion 
>> trough large parts of the century. She was born early in the century, and 
>> died more than 80 years old. I have already read large parts of the book, 
>> it is lovely reading!
>> Here is a link to it       http://tinyurl.co.uk/e7v7
>> The other gift i got was a lovely pillow cover embroidered with whitework 
>> and edged with esquisite lace. Its real antique 18th century. It has a 
>> kind of "shadow work" where the bottom is filled out with french knots, 
>> and believe me if i  tell you, that these are so tiny, you wouldnt 
>> imagine it! Their needles must have ben very tiny, the finest i have, 
>> would be 10 times as big. Finally i got a real coin from the time of 
>> Christian VII its from 1787, what do you say?
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 15:12:49 -0500
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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] book: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
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No Idea as yet. I'll post to the list when I find out more.

Beth Matney

At 01:00 PM 10/2/2006, you wrote:
>Any idea how much the book will cost?  I'd like to put my name on the
>reserve list, but I don't want to feel obligated to buy a $200 book!
>
>-E House

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 650
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I don't suppose Amazon will be carrying this one?



Catalina
Sanguinem dumtaxat causam virtutis pendate




>
>Message: 1
>Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 07:36:40 -0500
>From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
>Subject: [h-cost] book: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
>To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>Message-ID: <6.0.0.22.0.20061002073445.0283bde0@mail.alltel.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>I just got a note from the publisher that this is scheduled to be published
>May 2007.
>
>Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward. Maney Pub. (2006).
>Clothbound with full colour dustjacket, ca 384 pages with ca 150 b&w and 30
>colour illustrations. ISBN 1 904350 70 4.
>http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=show&fwid=649
>
>"Henry VIII used his wardrobe, and that of his family and household, as a
>way of expressing his wealth and magnificence. This book will encompass the
>first detailed study of male and female dress worn at the court of Henry
>VIII (1509-47) and will cover the dress of the king and his immediate
>family, the royal household and the broader court circle consisting of the
>nobility and clergy.
>
>Evidence will be drawn primarily from the Great Wardrobe accounts, wardrobe
>warrants, and inventories, and it will be interpreted using evidence from
>narrative sources, paintings, drawings and surviving garments. Key areas
>for consideration will include the cut and construction of garments,
>materials and colours, the function of livery and the hierarchy of dress
>amongst the social elite, and the network of craftsmen and merchants
>working for the court. "
>
>Maria Hayward (FSA, Reader in Textile Conservation, University of
>Southampton, UK) is also Assistant Editor of Costume - Journal of The
>Costume Society
>
>
>


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dark (Darth?) Maul costume (OT?)
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 19:28:15 -0400
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On Monday 02 October 2006 1:42 pm, Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> Hi all, I know think this may be a little OT - (not sure how old the movie
> is).  I was wondering if any of you knew which Star Wars movie this
> character is in?  My nephew wants to be him (it?) for Halloween.  I wanted
> to rent the movie to see what he wears under his cape...wooo wooo!

Darth Maul shows up in Star Wars--The Phantom Menace.  The first volume of the 
"prequel to Star Wars" trilogy.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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They're the same size as the typical b & w marbled ones, only the covers
are black with white quadrille on the top half of the page and ruled on
the bottom half. I don't know if they come in different colors. 100
sheets, 200 pages.

Planning on using mine a lot. :-)

Arlys 



On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 10:32:12 -0700 "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
writes:
> Ooh, will have to look for this...what do they look like?  Do they 
> have that "typical" black and white cardboard cover, or are they 
> plastic covered
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Cynthia J Ley<mailto:cley@juno.com> 
>   To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
>   Cc: lherr@rightwaybusiness.com<mailto:lherr@rightwaybusiness.com> 
> ; cameronfamily3@juno.com<mailto:cameronfamily3@juno.com> ; 
> antir-costumers@antir.sca.org<mailto:antir-costumers@antir.sca.org> 
> ; brenna14@comcast.net<mailto:brenna14@comcast.net> 
>   Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 2:32 PM
>   Subject: [h-cost] neat idea for those who draft
> 
> 
>   Hi all. Was in Office Max today (in the States) and came across 
> something
>   kind of cool. Mead is making composition books where have the page 
> is in
>   quadrille form and the other half is college ruled for notes. 
> Handy thing
>   for all of us who do embroidery and pattern drafting!
> 
>   Arlys

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] neat idea for those who draft
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On Mon, 2 Oct 2006, Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> They're the same size as the typical b & w marbled ones, only the
> covers are black with white quadrille on the top half of the page and
> ruled on the bottom half. I don't know if they come in different
> colors. 100 sheets, 200 pages.

I saw some at Wal-Mart when I was buying school supplies. They looked
close enough to the b&w marbled ones that I had one in my cart before I
realized it was *not* the plain composition book my kid needed for class.

--Robin

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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15rh century embroidery site
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 20:57:42 -0700
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On Oct 1, 2006, at 8:09 PM, otsisto wrote:

>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> http://medieval.webcon.net.au/period_15th_c.html
>>>
>  Which ones are your artwork?
>> De
>>
>
> The line drawings of the motifs on the Mammen page (10th c. Denmark).
>
> Heather
>
> Ah, I see. I remember the site that this info comes from.
> Could this person have mistaken the rendering of the fragments as a  
> part of
> the display of the fragments from the museum?
>

It would be hard to continue to be mistaken after the correspondence  
we exchanged on the topic.

> Did you get to see the fragments up close? The last drawing is  
> interesting
> in that there isn't consistancy.

I'm working pretty much from published materials plus viewing the  
"reconstructions" commissioned by the Danish National Museum (which  
weren't intended to be reconstructions of the Mammen outfit itself)  
-- the published photos are much clearer to make out than the actual  
original fragments.  The line drawings are redrawn from published  
archaeological reports and tried to follow what can be seen of the  
original layout, which as you note isn't always consistent.  I'd be a  
lot more torqued if it were creative work rather than technical  
drawings, but it's the principle of the thing.  (And for goodness  
sake, the original archaeological reports on the Mammen find are old  
enough that they're out of copyright, so it's not like any one  
_needs_ to steal my art.)

Heather
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My curiosity is of the drawing in that of the "faces".
(Oh by the way found your site. :) )
http://heatherrosejones.com/mammen/index.html

I don't know why but the I think the "small faces" are not faces. Your
examples of why they would be faces are good. I guess I need to figure out
why I don't think their faces.
De




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Hi,
As i promissed yesterday, i wanted to let you se the wonderfull 18th century 
pillow case i got as a gift:

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pillowcase.htm

It needs washing, but ill waite a little with this. Thoaght about using 
destilled water, and soap flakes. How about ironing after the wash, shouldnt 
i use a thick towel on the front of the embroidery and iron on the back? As 
it is the finest linnen you can imagine, i suppose i should be carefull with 
the ironing...........
I think i want to frame the pillow case, and hang it where no sun will harm 
it.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
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Beautiful!
 
If you frame it...you might want to shadow box it on a pillow. Not a big  
fluffy pillow but a relatively flat one, in off white so the embroidery pops and  
is visible.
 
I just saw an example of the apparently lost art of Hollie Point. Whoa!  
Amazing!
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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
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It is beautiful!  I would wash with liquid specifcally for delicate in cold water.  Definitely use a towel and iron from the back.  Just be sure everything is smooth before you put the iron to it.  Good Luck!
  Lady Von

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
  Hi,
As i promissed yesterday, i wanted to let you se the wonderfull 18th century 
pillow case i got as a gift:

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pillowcase.htm

It needs washing, but ill waite a little with this. Thoaght about using 
destilled water, and soap flakes. How about ironing after the wash, shouldnt 
i use a thick towel on the front of the embroidery and iron on the back? As 
it is the finest linnen you can imagine, i suppose i should be carefull with 
the ironing...........
I think i want to frame the pillow case, and hang it where no sun will harm 
it.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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  Lady Von
   
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
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At 15:22 03/10/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>As i promissed yesterday, i wanted to let you se the wonderfull 18th 
>century pillow case i got as a gift:
>
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pillowcase.htm
>
>It needs washing, but ill waite a little with this. Thoaght about 
>using destilled water, and soap flakes. How about ironing after the 
>wash, shouldnt i use a thick towel on the front of the embroidery 
>and iron on the back? As it is the finest linnen you can imagine, i 
>suppose i should be carefull with the ironing...........
>I think i want to frame the pillow case, and hang it where no sun 
>will harm it.
>
>Bjarne

The Museum of London washes early 19thc white embroidered fabric, 
which this strongly reminds me of, in plain water to start with, 
leaving it to soak. I don't believe they heat the water but use it 
cold. I am sure if you asked the conservators at Rosenborg or the 
other museum in Copenhagen whose name I cannot remember, they would 
be happy to advise you.

Suzi 

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Thank you *so* much for sharing! The pillow is exquisite.

ailith

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 10:22 AM
Subject: [h-cost] white embroidery


> Hi,
> As i promissed yesterday, i wanted to let you se the wonderfull 18th 
> century pillow case i got as a gift:
>
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pillowcase.htm
>
> It needs washing, but ill waite a little with this. Thoaght about using 
> destilled water, and soap flakes. How about ironing after the wash, 
> shouldnt i use a thick towel on the front of the embroidery and iron on 
> the back? As it is the finest linnen you can imagine, i suppose i should 
> be carefull with the ironing...........
> I think i want to frame the pillow case, and hang it where no sun will 
> harm it.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Costume in Film...at Winterthur
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At 7:51 AM -0700 10/3/06, Patty Dennis wrote:
>Fashion in Film: Period Costumes for the Screen
>
>WHAT: The exhibition features 35 costumes created for film 
>adaptations of classic novels and movies set from the 16th to 
>mid-20th century. Costumes were worn by Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth 
>Paltrow, Meryl Streep, Madonna, Colin Firth and Ralph Fiennes.
>
>WHERE: Winterthur, Del. 52, six miles northwest of Wilmington
>
>WHEN: 10 am - 5 pm Tuesday-Sunday through Jan. 7, 2007. Museum is 
>closed on Mondays.
>
>COST: The exhibition is included with admission. $20; students and 
>seniors $18; ages 2 to 11 $10.
>
>ALSO: At 3 pm November 4 in Winterthur's Visitor Center's Copeland 
>Lecture Hall, a panel will discuss feature film costume design. The 
>event, "Fashion in Film: A Professional Perspective," sponsored by 
>Greater Philadelphia Filmmakers, will feature an audience 
>participation Q&A session with John Bright, an Academy Award-winning 
>costume designer who is founder and managing director of Cosprop. 
>The cost is $50; Winterthur members and Film Office Listers $35; 
>students with ID $25. Preregistration is recommended. Call 
>(800)448-3883 to register.
>
>INFORMATION: (800) 448-3883 or <http://www.winterthur.org/>www.winterthur.org
>
>Some of the costumes featured are Gwyneth Paltrow's wedding gown 
>from "Emma", the costume ball gown (with wings) from "Ever After", 
>Kate Winslet's wedding gown from "Sense and Sensibility", Swoosie 
>Kurtz's gown from "Dangerous Liaisons", one of Colin Firth's 
>costumes from "Pride and Prejudice", a gown worn by Liz Taylor in 
>"Young Toscanini", Julie Christie's wedding gown from "Hamlet".
>
>All the costumes are authentic from the skin out since that's 
>something John Bright is known for.
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] paillons updated
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Status: RO

Hi,
Remember some time ago i was looking for special flower paillons for my 
suit?
Today i went shopping grosgrain ribbon to a new tricorne i make, and in that 
shop i found them!
They were excactly as i wanted them. Isnt it strange that sometimes things 
do succed for you?
I was unhappy for the ones i had used on the embroidery because they were 
filligree made, those i found today, looks very like the original 
ones..............

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 10:31:29 -0400
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Status: RO

What a delight!  Thanks for posting, Bjarne.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Oct 3, 2006, at 10:22 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> As i promissed yesterday, i wanted to let you se the wonderfull 18th 
> century pillow case i got as a gift:
>
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pillowcase.htm
>
> It needs washing, but ill waite a little with this. Thoaght about 
> using destilled water, and soap flakes. How about ironing after the 
> wash, shouldnt i use a thick towel on the front of the embroidery and 
> iron on the back? As it is the finest linnen you can imagine, i 
> suppose i should be carefull with the ironing...........
> I think i want to frame the pillow case, and hang it where no sun will 
> harm it.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 15:15:36 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The embroidery is exquisite, and I'm thrilled by the way the lace 
perfectly complements the embroidered motifs. Do you know, would the 
designer of the embroidery have purposely set out to achieve this 
effect? --that is, did the selection of the lace precede the designing 
of the pillowcase? I know you couldn't say for sure of course! but was 
such a practice customary?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Oct 3, 2006, at 10:22 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> As i promissed yesterday, i wanted to let you se the wonderfull 18th 
> century pillow case i got as a gift:
>
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pillowcase.htm
>
> It needs washing, but ill waite a little with this. Thoaght about 
> using destilled water, and soap flakes. How about ironing after the 
> wash, shouldnt i use a thick towel on the front of the embroidery and 
> iron on the back? As it is the finest linnen you can imagine, i 
> suppose i should be carefull with the ironing...........
> I think i want to frame the pillow case, and hang it where no sun will 
> harm it.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
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Dear Ruth,
Oh i must say that i really dont know. But i would say that it was not the 
case. My guess is they just picked up a lace for the pillow after it was 
embroidered. But you must remember they had many different design laces to 
choose from, in Denmark f. instance, several thousind lacemakers worked in 
the south of Jutland near Tonder.
The lace has yellowed a little by the age, i think it would have ben more 
white, when new. I have planned to ask at the lace list, wich kind of lace 
it is, as i really dont have any expertise with 18th century lace. The feel 
of that linnen lace, makes me cry, because we cant have that kind of bobbin 
lace thread in flax anymore. The cotton i use, is much more "collapsable" 
and needs a little starch, if i want to have that feeling to it.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ruth Anne Baumgartner" <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery


> The embroidery is exquisite, and I'm thrilled by the way the lace 
> perfectly complements the embroidered motifs. Do you know, would the 
> designer of the embroidery have purposely set out to achieve this 
> effect? --that is, did the selection of the lace precede the designing of 
> the pillowcase? I know you couldn't say for sure of course! but was such a 
> practice customary?
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> On Oct 3, 2006, at 10:22 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> As i promissed yesterday, i wanted to let you se the wonderfull 18th 
>> century pillow case i got as a gift:
>>
>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pillowcase.htm
>>
>> It needs washing, but ill waite a little with this. Thoaght about using 
>> destilled water, and soap flakes. How about ironing after the wash, 
>> shouldnt i use a thick towel on the front of the embroidery and iron on 
>> the back? As it is the finest linnen you can imagine, i suppose i should 
>> be carefull with the ironing...........
>> I think i want to frame the pillow case, and hang it where no sun will 
>> harm it.
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Oct  4 06:37:08 2006
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for a child's tux
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Status: RO

A dear young friend of mine would like to be Fred Astaire for
Halloween.  Christopher believes he needs a tux, or preferably tails,
and a top hat.  Do any of you Silicon Valley area people know where to
find one on the cheap?  Christopher is 6 yrs old, but he's tall &
skinny & tap dances just like Fred Astaire.
If you see one while cruzing discount shops, used clothing stores or
thrift shops give a yell.  We'll go have a look.
Thanks much!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sharon Nevin <sharon.nevin@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
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Hi,

The pillowcase is absolutely lovely, thank you for sharing.
Distilled water is the best water to use for washing old textiles but I 
also would reccomend first talking to a conservator who deals with this 
sort of work at a museum to see what they would suggest.

Sharon

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] white embroidery
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Status: RO

Just out of curiosity, why can't you get flax lace anymore? Is the thread
not available, or is no one  making it? 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 1:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery


Dear Ruth,
Oh i must say that i really dont know. But i would say that it was not the 
case. My guess is they just picked up a lace for the pillow after it was 
embroidered. But you must remember they had many different design laces to 
choose from, in Denmark f. instance, several thousind lacemakers worked in 
the south of Jutland near Tonder.
The lace has yellowed a little by the age, i think it would have ben more 
white, when new. I have planned to ask at the lace list, wich kind of lace 
it is, as i really dont have any expertise with 18th century lace. The feel 
of that linnen lace, makes me cry, because we cant have that kind of bobbin 
lace thread in flax anymore. The cotton i use, is much more "collapsable" 
and needs a little starch, if i want to have that feeling to it.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ruth Anne Baumgartner" <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery


> The embroidery is exquisite, and I'm thrilled by the way the lace
> perfectly complements the embroidered motifs. Do you know, would the 
> designer of the embroidery have purposely set out to achieve this 
> effect? --that is, did the selection of the lace precede the designing of 
> the pillowcase? I know you couldn't say for sure of course! but was such a

> practice customary?
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> On Oct 3, 2006, at 10:22 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> As i promissed yesterday, i wanted to let you se the wonderfull 18th
>> century pillow case i got as a gift:
>>
>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pillowcase.htm
>>
>> It needs washing, but ill waite a little with this. Thoaght about 
>> using
>> destilled water, and soap flakes. How about ironing after the wash, 
>> shouldnt i use a thick towel on the front of the embroidery and iron on 
>> the back? As it is the finest linnen you can imagine, i suppose i should 
>> be carefull with the ironing...........
>> I think i want to frame the pillow case, and hang it where no sun will 
>> harm it.
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Celebrating Halloween
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I am so excited!  We are having our first Halloween contest on The Costume Gallery's Websites.  The winners are given a really nice free costume of their choice or a goulish table setting/party pack.  Each contestant can earn points that cumulate until Fri. Oct. 13.  The prizes are awarded on Oct. 16.  I worked really hard to get such good prizes from our sponsor.  The daily challenges are really fun to earn points and some educational!  Here is the official announcement about the contest:  

A Halloween Contest at The Costume Gallery Websites:
http://www.costumegallery.com/HalloweenContest/

We are thrilled to announce our first Halloween contest!  Three people will win the contest.  The prizes are:
---Two people will win the costume of their choice from www.SpiritHalloween.com .  A value of up to $170 per winner.  
--- One person will win a 29-piece Goulish Party Pack prize worth $234.  This includes everything you see on the table setting on the front webpage of the Contest, except the pumpkins and candles.  One raven candle holder is included.  Because the majority of this Party Pack is made of ceramics and heavy, it will only be shipped in the U.S.  You can see detailed photos of the individual pieces on our Prize webpage.  I have seen this party pack in a Spirits retail store and it is so cool!

Earn CGpoints to win the contest. The points are cumulative. There are several ways to earn CG Points.  
See: http://www.costumegallery.com/HalloweenContest/points.htm  Please make sure to book this webpage.  It is updated daily with another challenge question.
Every day through Oct. 13, there will be a different Challenge question.  All deal with the Halloween season and costumes.  Two challenge questions are on the webpage now.   There are also several other ways to earn points listed on the CG Points webpage.  Make sure to check them out!  

You can view the Top Ten Contestants CG Points names daily on the Top Ten Webpage.  The top ten contestants' total points are listed for the previous day.
http://www.costumegallery.com/HalloweenContest/topten.htm

Please feel free to pass this message to your friends or email lists.

Good luck with the contest and I hope you have a lot of fun!

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Kate,

I didn't see that first post either.  But that was my first on missing.

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 4:13 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Missing posts


> Strangely, it seems to be Bjarne's posts in particular that I'm not
> receiving. I see replies to messages of his but never get the original
> message.  Very odd.
> 
> 
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 06:59:39 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for a child's tux
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 10/4/2006 6:42:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cinbarnes@gmail.com writes:

Christopher believes he needs a tux, or preferably tails,
and a top  hat. 


I'm sure you can rent one with advance notice from a formal rental  store.  
'Course, that wouldn't be cheap!
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <005901c6e759$c5a29530$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 06:33:08 -0600
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You can certainly get linen lace, and linen threads.  It's the *fineness* of
the linen threads used then, that can't be duplicated now.  In linen.  So
you've either got to use a thicker linen, or use a fine thread, but in a
different fiber/material.  Even when using another plant-based fiber (such
as the cotton about which Bjarne spoke), the finished product isn't going to
be quite the same.  *Especially* if you're comparing using something like a
cotton thread (cotton has really, really short fibers) with something like a
hand-spun, wet-spun linen thread made from line flax (which has fibers many
times longer than cotton thread).  The two fibers even come from different
parts of their respective plants, require different amounts of twist when
spinning, different techniques, etc.
You can see the difference, somewhat, if you think of the feel of modern
cotton fabric and a modern linen fabric of the same weight, even though the
linen fabric most likely was *not* woven out of thread made from line flax.
--Sue, apparently channeling the spinning part of herself this morning....

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 8:06 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] white embroidery


> Just out of curiosity, why can't you get flax lace anymore? Is the thread
> not available, or is no one  making it?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 1:56 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
>
>
> Dear Ruth,
> Oh i must say that i really dont know. But i would say that it was not the
> case. My guess is they just picked up a lace for the pillow after it was
> embroidered. But you must remember they had many different design laces to
> choose from, in Denmark f. instance, several thousind lacemakers worked in
> the south of Jutland near Tonder.
> The lace has yellowed a little by the age, i think it would have ben more
> white, when new. I have planned to ask at the lace list, wich kind of lace
> it is, as i really dont have any expertise with 18th century lace. The
feel
> of that linnen lace, makes me cry, because we cant have that kind of
bobbin
> lace thread in flax anymore. The cotton i use, is much more "collapsable"
> and needs a little starch, if i want to have that feeling to it.
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ruth Anne Baumgartner" <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 9:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
>
>
> > The embroidery is exquisite, and I'm thrilled by the way the lace
> > perfectly complements the embroidered motifs. Do you know, would the
> > designer of the embroidery have purposely set out to achieve this
> > effect? --that is, did the selection of the lace precede the designing
of
> > the pillowcase? I know you couldn't say for sure of course! but was such
a
>
> > practice customary?
> > --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> > scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> >
> > On Oct 3, 2006, at 10:22 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> >
> >> Hi,
> >> As i promissed yesterday, i wanted to let you se the wonderfull 18th
> >> century pillow case i got as a gift:
> >>
> >> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pillowcase.htm
> >>
> >> It needs washing, but ill waite a little with this. Thoaght about
> >> using
> >> destilled water, and soap flakes. How about ironing after the wash,
> >> shouldnt i use a thick towel on the front of the embroidery and iron on
> >> the back? As it is the finest linnen you can imagine, i suppose i
should
> >> be carefull with the ironing...........
> >> I think i want to frame the pillow case, and hang it where no sun will
> >> harm it.
> >>
> >> Bjarne
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> >> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >>
> >> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <005901c6e759$c5a29530$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 15:06:51 +0200
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Hi,
For such fine laces you need a thread of the size 250- 350.
The thinnest you can get these days is 140, wich would be almost doubble as 
thick as required.
All the worlds lacemakers who makes the old laces, needs to use cotton 
thread because they cant get thin enough flax thread. I have heard some, 
using polyesther thread, wich i think is chrazy, but you know, world is full 
of strange people.........

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 4:06 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] white embroidery


> Just out of curiosity, why can't you get flax lace anymore? Is the thread
> not available, or is no one  making it?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 1:56 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
>
>
> Dear Ruth,
> Oh i must say that i really dont know. But i would say that it was not the
> case. My guess is they just picked up a lace for the pillow after it was
> embroidered. But you must remember they had many different design laces to
> choose from, in Denmark f. instance, several thousind lacemakers worked in
> the south of Jutland near Tonder.
> The lace has yellowed a little by the age, i think it would have ben more
> white, when new. I have planned to ask at the lace list, wich kind of lace
> it is, as i really dont have any expertise with 18th century lace. The 
> feel
> of that linnen lace, makes me cry, because we cant have that kind of 
> bobbin
> lace thread in flax anymore. The cotton i use, is much more "collapsable"
> and needs a little starch, if i want to have that feeling to it.
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ruth Anne Baumgartner" <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 9:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
>
>
>> The embroidery is exquisite, and I'm thrilled by the way the lace
>> perfectly complements the embroidered motifs. Do you know, would the
>> designer of the embroidery have purposely set out to achieve this
>> effect? --that is, did the selection of the lace precede the designing of
>> the pillowcase? I know you couldn't say for sure of course! but was such 
>> a
>
>> practice customary?
>> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>>
>> On Oct 3, 2006, at 10:22 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>>
>>> Hi,
>>> As i promissed yesterday, i wanted to let you se the wonderfull 18th
>>> century pillow case i got as a gift:
>>>
>>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pillowcase.htm
>>>
>>> It needs washing, but ill waite a little with this. Thoaght about
>>> using
>>> destilled water, and soap flakes. How about ironing after the wash,
>>> shouldnt i use a thick towel on the front of the embroidery and iron on
>>> the back? As it is the finest linnen you can imagine, i suppose i should
>>> be carefull with the ironing...........
>>> I think i want to frame the pillow case, and hang it where no sun will
>>> harm it.
>>>
>>> Bjarne
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>>
>>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] white embroidery
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 08:53:02 -0500
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This might be a good time to inquire- what do these numbers mean?
I know it is a sizing reference, but how do they apply? Bigger number neams
smaller thread, but how much smaller is 80 thread half as thick (diameter
only) as 40 thread? Or does a certain length/skein of 80 weigh half as much
as the same amount of 40? Is there a handy reference to see/feel the various
size categories? 
Thanks much in advance, Betsy (occasional spinner, but not of linen, yet)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 8:07 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery

Hi,
For such fine laces you need a thread of the size 250- 350.
The thinnest you can get these days is 140, wich would be almost doubble as 
thick as required.
All the worlds lacemakers who makes the old laces, needs to use cotton 
thread because they cant get thin enough flax thread. I have heard some, 
using polyesther thread, wich i think is chrazy, but you know, world is full

of strange people.........

Bjarne


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From: Vicky Simpson <vickycoleen2000@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Nylon chiffon
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Do you know of a source for nylon (or rayon) chiffon?
   
  Vicky


                               www.southerngracedesigns.com
   
   
   
   
   
       
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] paillons updated
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Good to here! :)

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi,
Remember some time ago i was looking for special flower paillons for my
suit?
Today i went shopping grosgrain ribbon to a new tricorne i make, and in that
shop i found them!
They were excactly as i wanted them. Isnt it strange that sometimes things
do succed for you?
I was unhappy for the ones i had used on the embroidery because they were
filligree made, those i found today, looks very like the original
ones..............

Bjarne



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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Strangely, it seems to be Bjarne's posts in particular that I'm not
receiving. I see replies to messages of his but never get the original
message.  Very odd.



Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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Subject: [h-cost] Wedding Veil (in U.K only please)
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The lady for whom I am making the Victorian dress, which I am rudely 
calling a tea cosy, has at the last moment decided she needs a 
wedding veil, but because of all the frou-frou at the neck of the 
dress, it needs to be short. Shoulder length or chin length would be 
ideal, and as plain as possible in ivory silk tulle or nylon tulle. I 
cannot make this for her as I can no longer be neat enough to roll 
that kind of hem, so it is no use getting a length of tulle, or 
shortening a ready made one.

Can any U.K. lister suggest anywhere I can try> I have looked at 
everything I can see on Google and others, but maybe I am not looking 
in the right places.

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] Disappearing mail order place
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Does anyone know what became of Harper House?  Their link came up as 
404.  This is too bad, because they had a pretty  good     selection of 
patterns.   Anyone?


Thanks (and hoping this is actually in plain text),

Meagn
TudorLdy@aol.com

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Missing posts
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I got the original after the first two replies. I usually get a delayed
first posting with Bjarne's posts. I don't know why.
De

-----Original Message-----
Kate,

I didn't see that first post either.  But that was my first on missing.

Penny Ladnier,

----- Original Message -----
> Strangely, it seems to be Bjarne's posts in particular that I'm not
> receiving. I see replies to messages of his but never get the original
> message.  Very odd.
>
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Subject: [h-cost] not in UK but possible idea RE: Wedding Veil (in U.K only
	please)
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Status: RO

If she is trying to be Period/Authentic, majority of the early Victorian
veils were hem or chapel length. I have only seen one veil (now 2) that was
chin length that did not cover the face.
This isn't the one but pretty close.
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebimages/C_T08_MM/full/M83_231_21.jpg

If you can find a large enough square of lace that might work with having to
hem.

Otherwise I vaguely remember hats worn in late Victorian to early Edwardian.
Not a lot but not rare.

De

-----Original Message-----
The lady for whom I am making the Victorian dress, which I am rudely
calling a tea cosy, has at the last moment decided she needs a
wedding veil, but because of all the frou-frou at the neck of the
dress, it needs to be short. Shoulder length or chin length would be
ideal, and as plain as possible in ivory silk tulle or nylon tulle. I
cannot make this for her as I can no longer be neat enough to roll
that kind of hem, so it is no use getting a length of tulle, or
shortening a ready made one.

Can any U.K. lister suggest anywhere I can try> I have looked at
everything I can see on Google and others, but maybe I am not looking
in the right places.

Suzi


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Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2006 18:43:55 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] not in UK but possible idea RE: Wedding Veil (in
	U.K only please)
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At 18:20 04/10/2006, you wrote:
>If she is trying to be Period/Authentic, majority of the early Victorian
>veils were hem or chapel length. I have only seen one veil (now 2) that was
>chin length that did not cover the face.
>This isn't the one but pretty close.
>http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebimages/C_T08_MM/full/M83_231_21.jpg
>
>If you can find a large enough square of lace that might work with having to
>hem.
>
>Otherwise I vaguely remember hats worn in late Victorian to early Edwardian.
>Not a lot but not rare.


Thanks but authentic is not the thing - this is a Victorian *based* 
dress, from a fashion plate, but the accessories, shoes, bridesmaids, 
and now veil are not, or do not need to be authentic. There is so 
much around the neckline, like flowers and lace etc. and she doesn't 
want them covered. It is only the token thing of arriving at the 
altar with her face covered.

Lace here comes in 120" widths, so is far too wide to use unhemmed, 
which is why I am not suggesting making it myself.

Suzi

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] not in UK but possible idea RE: Wedding Veil (inU.K only
	please)
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Hi Suzi,
How about edging the tulle with the dress material, just a thin edge?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] not in UK but possible idea RE: Wedding Veil (inU.K 
only please)


> At 18:20 04/10/2006, you wrote:
>>If she is trying to be Period/Authentic, majority of the early Victorian
>>veils were hem or chapel length. I have only seen one veil (now 2) that 
>>was
>>chin length that did not cover the face.
>>This isn't the one but pretty close.
>>http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebimages/C_T08_MM/full/M83_231_21.jpg
>>
>>If you can find a large enough square of lace that might work with having 
>>to
>>hem.
>>
>>Otherwise I vaguely remember hats worn in late Victorian to early 
>>Edwardian.
>>Not a lot but not rare.
>
>
> Thanks but authentic is not the thing - this is a Victorian *based* dress, 
> from a fashion plate, but the accessories, shoes, bridesmaids, and now 
> veil are not, or do not need to be authentic. There is so much around the 
> neckline, like flowers and lace etc. and she doesn't want them covered. It 
> is only the token thing of arriving at the altar with her face covered.
>
> Lace here comes in 120" widths, so is far too wide to use unhemmed, which 
> is why I am not suggesting making it myself.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] not in UK but possible idea RE: Wedding Veil
	(inU.K only please)
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At 18:49 04/10/2006, you wrote:
>Hi Suzi,
>How about edging the tulle with the dress material, just a thin edge?
>
>Bjarne
>

Bjarne - I can't cut tulle evenly enough to make sure the veil is a 
good shape. (I have problems with my wrist and controlling the 
scissors when doing really delicate work.) That would be a great 
idea, if I could do it though.

Suzi

>>At 18:20 04/10/2006, you wrote:
>>>If she is trying to be Period/Authentic, majority of the early Victorian
>>>veils were hem or chapel length. I have only seen one veil (now 2) that was
>>>chin length that did not cover the face.
>>>This isn't the one but pretty close.
>>>http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebimages/C_T08_MM/full/M83_231_21.jpg
>>>
>>>If you can find a large enough square of lace that might work with having to
>>>hem.
>>>
>>>Otherwise I vaguely remember hats worn in late Victorian to early Edwardian.
>>>Not a lot but not rare.
>>
>>
>>Thanks but authentic is not the thing - this is a Victorian *based* 
>>dress, from a fashion plate, but the accessories, shoes, 
>>bridesmaids, and now veil are not, or do not need to be authentic. 
>>There is so much around the neckline, like flowers and lace etc. 
>>and she doesn't want them covered. It is only the token thing of 
>>arriving at the altar with her face covered.
>>
>>Lace here comes in 120" widths, so is far too wide to use unhemmed, 
>>which is why I am not suggesting making it myself.
>>
>>Suzi
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <00dc01c6e7bc$6d53bc70$6601a8c0@PYC64>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery/thread numbers
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 20:10:48 +0200
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Hi,
I am sorry but i dont have a clou about that.
I can tell you that the number 250 linnen thread is comparable to nr 140 
egyptian cotton.
Most of my pattern books gives the number required for each lace. The eldest 
laces i can make with my tecknique is Tonder laces, with tulle ground, they 
started this in the end of 18th century. Most of these are worked with 250 
linnen thread, or some wich are finer with 300 - 350. It all depends of the 
fine tulle ground, the finer it is, the finer thread.
But i must admit, it is seldom i sit at my lacepillow these days, embroidery 
takes up most of my time. I have however started to make silk laces, its 
easy to get fine threads in silk, and they look and feels better than 
cotton.
The "tangled garden"- caraco jacket i am making, is going to have sleave 
frills with a reconstrukted lace i made from "Costume in Detail" having 
chenille as a gimp.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 3:53 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] white embroidery


> This might be a good time to inquire- what do these numbers mean?
> I know it is a sizing reference, but how do they apply? Bigger number 
> neams
> smaller thread, but how much smaller is 80 thread half as thick (diameter
> only) as 40 thread? Or does a certain length/skein of 80 weigh half as 
> much
> as the same amount of 40? Is there a handy reference to see/feel the 
> various
> size categories?
> Thanks much in advance, Betsy (occasional spinner, but not of linen, yet)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 8:07 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
>
> Hi,
> For such fine laces you need a thread of the size 250- 350.
> The thinnest you can get these days is 140, wich would be almost doubble 
> as
> thick as required.
> All the worlds lacemakers who makes the old laces, needs to use cotton
> thread because they cant get thin enough flax thread. I have heard some,
> using polyesther thread, wich i think is chrazy, but you know, world is 
> full
>
> of strange people.........
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] not in UK but possible idea RE: Wedding Veil (inU.K only
	please)
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 13:22:33 -0500
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Does she really have to have a face veil? If the neckline is so important
and ornate then a face veil would be a distraction. A simple head wreath
sounds more appropriate. Maybe telling her that the face veil has pagan
origins might dissuade her from a veil (kinding).
I wish you luck in finding your hemmer.

De

-----Original Message-----
Thanks but authentic is not the thing - this is a Victorian *based*
dress, from a fashion plate, but the accessories, shoes, bridesmaids,
and now veil are not, or do not need to be authentic. There is so
much around the neckline, like flowers and lace etc. and she doesn't
want them covered. It is only the token thing of arriving at the
altar with her face covered.

Lace here comes in 120" widths, so is far too wide to use unhemmed,
which is why I am not suggesting making it myself.

Suzi


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Status: RO

http://www.saragrace.us/METMilBasesPics.html<http://www.saragrace.us/METMilBasesPics.html>

I finally got a response from the museum (the curator is in Europe - whaaaa!)

Here are the pictures.  Enjoy!

Would love to hear your opinions.  I am waiting to hear back from the textile expert in Sweden.  He has offered to take a look at the pictures - but said of course it would only be a limited opinion since he could not handle the garment himself.

Cheers,

Sg
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Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2006 19:53:54 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] not in UK but possible idea RE: Wedding Veil
	(inU.K only please)
In-Reply-To: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPGEJPHIAA.otsisto@socket.net>
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At 19:22 04/10/2006, you wrote:
>Does she really have to have a face veil? If the neckline is so important
>and ornate then a face veil would be a distraction. A simple head wreath
>sounds more appropriate. Maybe telling her that the face veil has pagan
>origins might dissuade her from a veil (kinding).
>I wish you luck in finding your hemmer.
>

We have found a veil that she likes and that is not too expensive, 
thank goodness. The husband-to-be wants the traditional veil, so as 
she says, she will do it for him - it is not her choice! (or mine!)

Suzi


>-----Original Message-----
>Thanks but authentic is not the thing - this is a Victorian *based*
>dress, from a fashion plate, but the accessories, shoes, bridesmaids,
>and now veil are not, or do not need to be authentic. There is so
>much around the neckline, like flowers and lace etc. and she doesn't
>want them covered. It is only the token thing of arriving at the
>altar with her face covered.
>
>Lace here comes in 120" widths, so is far too wide to use unhemmed,
>which is why I am not suggesting making it myself.
>
>Suzi
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Finally - the pictures of the military bases are up.
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http://www.saragrace.us/METMilBasesPics.html

This might work better.

Love the close pictures
De

-----Original Message-----
http://www.saragrace.us/METMilBasesPics.html<http://www.saragrace.us/METMilB
asesPics.html>

I finally got a response from the museum (the curator is in Europe -
whaaaa!)

Here are the pictures.  Enjoy!

Would love to hear your opinions.  I am waiting to hear back from the
textile expert in Sweden.  He has offered to take a look at the pictures -
but said of course it would only be a limited opinion since he could not
handle the garment himself.

Cheers,

Sg


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Suzi Clarke wrote:


> We have found a veil that she likes and that is not too expensive, thank 
> goodness. The husband-to-be wants the traditional veil, so as she says, 
> she will do it for him - it is not her choice! (or mine!)
> 

I seem to hear that a lot from brides lately. My husband wanted me to 
wear a veil too, though I hadn't originally planned on one.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] not in UK but possible idea RE: Wedding Veil(inU.K only
	please)
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 13:02:08 -0700
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Would a rotary cutter help?  There are both large and small wheels
available.  The small ones are only about 1" across and can do fairly
intricate work....

-Brenna

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] not in UK but possible idea RE: Wedding Veil(inU.K
only please)


<snip>
> Bjarne - I can't cut tulle evenly enough to make sure the veil is a
> good shape. (I have problems with my wrist and controlling the
> scissors when doing really delicate work.) That would be a great
> idea, if I could do it though.
>
> Suzi
>

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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finally - the pictures of the military bases are up.
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 16:23:18 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi,
These are great pictures, but I haven't been following the thread, so  
when it said "Military Bases" I was thinking, you know, building  
compounds with barracks and hangars and garages full of troops and  
airplanes and trucks! I am not in 16th C (yet) -- what does it mean  
to call these garments "military bases"?
Thanks!
Lauren
On Oct 4, 2006, at 2:55 PM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> http://www.saragrace.us/METMilBasesPics.html<http:// 
> www.saragrace.us/METMilBasesPics.html>
>
> I finally got a response from the museum (the curator is in Europe  
> - whaaaa!)
>
> Here are the pictures.  Enjoy!
>
> Would love to hear your opinions.  I am waiting to hear back from  
> the textile expert in Sweden.  He has offered to take a look at the  
> pictures - but said of course it would only be a limited opinion  
> since he could not handle the garment himself.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Sg
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2006 21:58:59 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] not in UK but possible idea RE: Wedding
	Veil(inU.K only please)
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At 21:02 04/10/2006, you wrote:
>Would a rotary cutter help?  There are both large and small wheels
>available.  The small ones are only about 1" across and can do fairly
>intricate work....
>
>-Brenna
>
><snip>
> > Bjarne - I can't cut tulle evenly enough to make sure the veil is a
> > good shape. (I have problems with my wrist and controlling the
> > scissors when doing really delicate work.) That would be a great
> > idea, if I could do it though.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I would need to do it so rarely, it is 
not worth the investment. It must be 5 years since I needed to cut 
tulle accurately, so as you can see, it is not a regular thing!

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] What is a military base
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http://www.saragrace.us/METMilBasesPics.html<http://www.saragrace.us/METMilBasesPics.html<http://www.saragrace.us/METMilBasesPics.html>
  Thank you for the correction to the link...not sure why it did that.  To the question of what a Military base is - pretty simply, it is "typically" a padded/quilted skirt worn as light armor.  

  I say typically, because of course, there are variations on it.  Some were just decorative, some were protective. Some were attached to padded "bodices," others were just "coverups."

  Here is one of my favorite pictures of several:

   http://tinyurl.com/oj5c3<http://tinyurl.com/oj5c3> 

  Another, which I cannot seem to conjure up at the moment is of a man on one knee wearing a skirt and a metal curiass.
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Subject: [h-cost] Ugh -sorry about the links..was What is a military base
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Not sure why my email is doing this.  I won't bother to try it again.  But do be aware that you can't get to the page via any of the the rest of my website.  It isn't linked to anything (because there isn't anything to link to.)  I can see that several people are "backing" up to my index page - that wont' help.

Sorry - life is too busy to make it pretty!

Sg
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  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> ; GermanRenCostume<mailto:GermanRenCostume@yahoogroups.com> ; TheRenaissanceTailor<mailto:TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Nylon chiffon
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In a message dated 10/4/06 7:11:28 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Do you know of a source for nylon (or rayon) chiffon?
>   
>  Vicky

try www.cheapfabrics .com  in the UK, but think they ship internationally, 
and are v good.  don't remember what the chiffon is made of (other than synth) 
but worth a look.

debbie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding Veil (in U.K only please) 
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Have you tried looking on wedding supplier listings sites, like 
hitched.co.uk, and confetti??  (There are also all sorts of others that come up if you 
google wedding suppliers).

Also, you could try modern veil manufacturers - the probably wouldn't sell to 
you direct, as it's a one off, but the should be able to tell you if they do 
anything suitable, and put you in touch with a stockist.  (Most probably have 
websites too.)

Ones listed in the latest copy of bridal buyer are:

alice james
carousel bridal veils
elizabeth dickens
emmerling
joyce jackson bridal veils
liza designs
malis henderson
pauline nichol
richard designs
trudy lee
nieve design couture


hope it helps
debbie

ps - a lot of women on wedding forums are also turning to ebay.

pps - if any of them don't come up on a search, adjust the spellings in case 
my brain's got a head of my fingers again!


In a message dated 10/4/06 7:11:28 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> The lady for whom I am making the Victorian dress, which I am rudely 
> calling a tea cosy, has at the last moment decided she needs a 
> wedding veil, but because of all the frou-frou at the neck of the 
> dress, it needs to be short. Shoulder length or chin length would be 
> ideal, and as plain as possible in ivory silk tulle or nylon tulle. I 
> cannot make this for her as I can no longer be neat enough to roll 
> that kind of hem, so it is no use getting a length of tulle, or 
> shortening a ready made one.
> 
> Can any U.K. lister suggest anywhere I can try> I have looked at 
> everything I can see on Google and others, but maybe I am not looking 
> in the right places.
> 
> Suzi


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<It's the *fineness* of
the linen threads used then, that can't be duplicated now.  In linen.>

Please pardon my ignorance, but why can't we have the same fineness now? Is 
it a difference in the spinning techniques, or the variety of the plant 
itself? Or a lack of demand for finer thread?

Thanks!

Caryn 


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My google skills are not bringing me what I need, so I come to the costume 
center of the universe for help!

My daughter wants to dress "1980s" for a school theme. I've described the 
look (I lived through it!) but she really wants to see photos.  What I 
remember (small town in the midwest) was a modified version of the 
valleygirl slash preppy. Punk didn't make it to my part of the world until 
it was called Goth.  :-)

Share links if you've got 'em, please!
Thanks
Denise B
Iowa 

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Subject: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
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Welcome to the 2006 H-COST Holiday Gift Exchange.

**PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MESSAGE CAREFULLY BEFORE RESPONDING***


Please DO NOT reply to the List. Please address all replies to me at 
Dawn@reddawn.net. Be sure to add my email to your spam filter so that I 
can reply to you with your exchange information.

Please leave the H-COST header intact in your reply so your message does 
not end up in the spam-trap. If the phrase "H-COST" does not appear in 
your subject line I will not get your message.


_What we're doing. _

We will be exchanging small costume and sewing related gifts with each 
other. To participate you must sign up (below). There are rules, so that 
everybody knows what is expected of them, but I want this to be fun so I 
am keeping the rules simple. If you want to participate, please read 
this entire message.

The Sign-up Deadline is October 14. The Mailing Deadline is Dec.8th. 
We're starting earlier based on feedback from last year.  Sometime after 
Oct 14 I will begin sending people their assignments. That's a crazy 
week for me, so don't panic if I'm a little late. :)


_The Rules._

1. You are responsible for completing your end of the exchange on time. 
Please be sure you can follow through on your committment.

2. Gifts should be sewing or costume related. Gifts may be hand-made for 
the recipient, or purchased, or may be items you already have. Gifts 
should be clean and in good condition and suitable for giving. You will 
be given guidelines to help you choose a gift for your recipient.

3. Gifts should be in the $10-$15 US range, and no more than that. (8-12 
euros). It's ok if you can get something on sale or make something from 
supplies you already have. Second-hand books in good condition are ok. 
We all know how many desireable but out-of-print titles are out there.

4. Please wrap your gift item. Last year many participants said they 
would like the gift to be a surprise, and will wait to open it. You do 
not have to use seasonal holiday paper, plain tissue or pretty fabric is 
just fine.

5. Plan to mail your gift early. Remember that it will cost you postage 
on top of what you spent on the gift. Small and lightweight objects are 
generally cheaper to mail. If you are mailing overseas you may have to 
fill out a Customs Declaration.

6. After the sign-up period I will create a list of all participants so 
that I can stay in touch with you and send reminders. Email should be 
addressed to me, or to this list and not to H-Cost.

7. Each person who joins will be randomly matched up with one person 
they will send a gift to. I will try not to match you with the same 
person as last year. Someone else will send a gift to you. For example, 
Ann will send to Bob. Bob will send to Clara. Clara will send to Ann. 
This way each person will meet two H-Costumers by giving and receiving. 
You will know who you are sending to, but not who is sending to you.


_Join Now!_

1. To join you must send me your name and mailing address. Please reply 
to me at dawn@reddawn.net and NOT to the H-Cost list. The sign-up period 
ends Oct 14.

2. Introduce yourself. Tell me a little bit about you, your family, your 
pets, what you do -- as much as you feel comfortable sharing. It's been 
suggested that you include your dress size.

3. Tell me some of your Favorite Things. What do you sew? What time 
period or place interests you? Is there a favorite technique or process 
that you enjoy? (weaving, dyeing, embroidery, etc.) Do you have a 
favorite color or theme?

4. If you live outside the US and know your Duty limit, please include 
it. If you are within the US and do not wish to mail to another country, 
please let me know.




I think that about covers it. If you have questions or concerns, please ask.



Dawn

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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 18:35:42 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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  I've been told two different but related things on this:  either  
the varieties of flax plants as now grown don't produce such fine  
fibers or that the processing as now done doesn't allow for serfs to  
hand-sort the fibers to gather all the finest ones up for the  
spinning and weaving of such ultra-fine fabric.

It may be that you have to be growing an awful lot of linen to  
accumulate enough of the finest fibers, too.
Lauren
On Oct 4, 2006, at 6:11 PM, Caryn Sobel wrote:

> <It's the *fineness* of
> the linen threads used then, that can't be duplicated now.  In linen.>
>
> Please pardon my ignorance, but why can't we have the same fineness  
> now? Is it a difference in the spinning techniques, or the variety  
> of the plant itself? Or a lack of demand for finer thread?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Caryn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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There are lots of 80's movies that could be rented depending on her age.

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 10/4/2006 3:28:00 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] recent history
>
> My google skills are not bringing me what I need, so I come to the
costume 
> center of the universe for help!
>
> My daughter wants to dress "1980s" for a school theme. I've described the 
> look (I lived through it!) but she really wants to see photos.  What I 
> remember (small town in the midwest) was a modified version of the 
> valleygirl slash preppy. Punk didn't make it to my part of the world
until 
> it was called Goth.  :-)
>
> Share links if you've got 'em, please!
> Thanks
> Denise B
> Iowa 
>
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> There are lots of 80's movies that could be rented depending on her age.
>

ah, of course!  but it wouldn't be a true school project if you let mom know 
more than 12 hours ahead of time what you require.  The library is closed 
and there isn't a movie rental place within a half-hour's drive.   I'll try 
IMDB though and see if I can find some movie shots.  thanks

Denise B 

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You might know some one with Fart Times At Ridgemont high. Flashdance, 16
candles etc...

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 10/4/2006 3:41:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] recent history
>
> > There are lots of 80's movies that could be rented depending on her age.
> >
>
> ah, of course!  but it wouldn't be a true school project if you let mom
know 
> more than 12 hours ahead of time what you require.  The library is closed 
> and there isn't a movie rental place within a half-hour's drive.   I'll
try 
> IMDB though and see if I can find some movie shots.  thanks
>
> Denise B 
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
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As far as i have heard its not that they cant make it, but its the price 
wich would be two high that anyone would buy it.
Only the best flax can be used for this fine thread, and it needs a lot of 
work to make it that thin.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Caryn Sobel" <carynsobel@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery


> <It's the *fineness* of
> the linen threads used then, that can't be duplicated now.  In linen.>
>
> Please pardon my ignorance, but why can't we have the same fineness now? 
> Is it a difference in the spinning techniques, or the variety of the plant 
> itself? Or a lack of demand for finer thread?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Caryn
>
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
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>  I've been told two different but related things on this:  either  the 
> varieties of flax plants as now grown don't produce such fine  fibers or 
> that the processing as now done doesn't allow for serfs to  hand-sort the 
> fibers to gather all the finest ones up for the  spinning and weaving of 
> such ultra-fine fabric.

There are several things that influence the fiber diameter in flax 
production. The main difference in modern times is that it's all mechanized 
for maximum production. Flax grows a much finer fiber when the plant 
population is high. (growing close together). Also, to get the finest fibers 
you have to harvest the plants before the seeds are mature.  Modern 
production places the seeds in the soil at a much more regular spacing than 
the broadcast seeding done in the past and the plant population density is 
optimized for cash production. That means that the fiber is harvested when 
the seed is ready and the plants are strong enough to hold themselves up 
throughout the growing and harvest seasons. The fiber brings a lower price, 
but it's offset by the value of the flax seed.  There probably isn't enough 
demand for fine fiber to convince any producers to forgo their seed crop.

Denise B 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] recent history
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 18:58:28 -0400
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God bless typos. It's been a rough couple of days, but THIS MOVIE is  
giving me a wonderful howling laugh!
--RuthAnne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Oct 4, 2006, at 6:43 PM, Silvara wrote:

> You might know some one with Fart Times At Ridgemont high. ....
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How funny that this topic comes up today! While dropping my son off at the
mall today, it was very obvious that they had held some type of "retro look"
event. High school aged people pouring out of the mall in everything from
day-glo paisley mini dresses, pleather mini dresses & white go-go boots to
Madonna & Flashdance & Cyndi Lauper looks. Entirely too frightening to think
I used to wear those types of things!
Lisa W. in MT

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding Veil (in U.K only please) 
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At 23:11 04/10/2006, you wrote:
>Have you tried looking on wedding supplier listings sites, like
>hitched.co.uk, and confetti??  (There are also all sorts of others 
>that come up if you
>google wedding suppliers).
>
>Also, you could try modern veil manufacturers - the probably wouldn't sell to
>you direct, as it's a one off, but the should be able to tell you if they do
>anything suitable, and put you in touch with a stockist.  (Most probably have
>websites too.)
>
>Ones listed in the latest copy of bridal buyer are:
>
>alice james
>carousel bridal veils
>elizabeth dickens
>emmerling
>joyce jackson bridal veils
>liza designs
>malis henderson
>pauline nichol
>richard designs
>trudy lee
>nieve design couture
>
>
>hope it helps
>debbie
>
>ps - a lot of women on wedding forums are also turning to ebay.
>
>pps - if any of them don't come up on a search, adjust the spellings in case
>my brain's got a head of my fingers again!

Thanks Debs - I'll bookmark that for future reference. I did find one 
here http://www.theweddingveilshop.co.uk/id226.html  which will 
actually do - tried "Bridal" instead of "Wedding" and got a few 
different references. I really don't *plan* ever to make another 
wedding dress, except the one for my future daughter-in-law, but you 
know what they say about the best laid plans!

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding Veil (in U.K only please) 
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In a message dated 10/5/06 12:08:55 AM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Thanks Debs - I'll bookmark that for future reference. I did find one 
> here http://www.theweddingveilshop.co.uk/id226.html  which will 
> actually do - tried "Bridal" instead of "Wedding" and got a few 
> different references. I really don't *plan* ever to make another 
> wedding dress, except the one for my future daughter-in-law, but you 
> know what they say about the best laid plans!
> 
> Suzi

yeah - I keep making plans like that :o)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] recent history
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In a message dated 10/4/2006 6:59:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ruthanneb@mindspring.com writes:

You  might know some one with Fart Times At Ridgemont high


Considering the audience these types of movies are aimed at, that might be  
an apt title. . . .
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Dancing with the Stars
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Is anyone watching the costumes on Dancing with the Stars?  Some of the ladies costumes are so beautiful.  I love watching the dress flow on the dance floor.  The Spanish inspired skirts last night we really nice.  But I couldn't understand Sara Evans costume last night.

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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http://www.fashion-era.com/1980s_lifestyle_and_fashion.htm

http://www.fashion-era.com/power_dressing.htm

http://www.nostalgiacentral.com/pop/fashion80.htm

http://www.prebble.com/80sFashionFile.html

(?)
http://www.funwirks.com/new_page_4.htm

De

-----Original Message-----
My google skills are not bringing me what I need, so I come to the costume 
center of the universe for help!

My daughter wants to dress "1980s" for a school theme. I've described the 
look (I lived through it!) but she really wants to see photos.  What I 
remember (small town in the midwest) was a modified version of the 
valleygirl slash preppy. Punk didn't make it to my part of the world until 
it was called Goth.  :-)

Share links if you've got 'em, please!
Thanks
Denise B
Iowa 

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Subject: [h-cost] dressing 80's
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When my daughter wanted to dress 80's she went in leggings, a striped leotard, headband and leg warmers - think Olivia Newton John and Let's Get Physical <G>


****************
My daughter wants to dress "1980s" for a school theme. I've described the 
look (I lived through it!) but she really wants to see photos.  What I 
remember (small town in the midwest) was a modified version of the 
valleygirl slash preppy. Punk didn't make it to my part of the world until 
it was called Goth.  :-)

Share links if you've got 'em, please!
Thanks
Denise B
Iowa 


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] was: recent history now: 80's looks
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Ummm... that is also a late '60s, early '70s look.
De

-----Original Message-----
from
day-glo paisley mini dresses, pleather mini dresses & white go-go boots to
Madonna & Flashdance & Cyndi Lauper looks. Entirely too frightening to think
I used to wear those types of things!
Lisa W. in MT


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] was: recent history now: 80's looks
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Paisley mini dresses, sure, but not Madonna or Flashdance or Cyndi!
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 6:29 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] was: recent history now: 80's looks


> Ummm... that is also a late '60s, early '70s look.
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> from
> day-glo paisley mini dresses, pleather mini dresses & white go-go boots to
> Madonna & Flashdance & Cyndi Lauper looks. Entirely too frightening to
think
> I used to wear those types of things!
> Lisa W. in MT
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Okay so I can't type!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


> [Original Message]
> From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 10/4/2006 4:20:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] recent history
>
>  
> In a message dated 10/4/2006 6:59:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> ruthanneb@mindspring.com writes:
>
> You  might know some one with Fart Times At Ridgemont high
>
>
> Considering the audience these types of movies are aimed at, that might
be  
> an apt title. . . .
>  
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
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Silvara wrote:

>You might know some one with Fart Times At Ridgemont high.
>

You know, that is _exactly_ what I thought of that movie :-)

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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>> There are lots of 80's movies that could be rented depending on her age.
>>
>
> ah, of course!  but it wouldn't be a true school project if you let mom 
> know more than 12 hours ahead of time what you require.  The library is 
> closed and there isn't a movie rental place within a half-hour's drive. 
> I'll try IMDB though and see if I can find some movie shots.  thanks
>
> Denise B

Use Google image search for Cyndi Lauper.  She pretty much iconised the 80's 
look.

Melusine 

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What is a military base
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Perhaps Raphael's "The Mass at Bolsena".  No armor,
but swords and kneeling and bases (or a related
garment).
 
That's the first one that comes to my mind.

Ann in CT

--- Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:

> To the question of what a Military base is - pretty
simply, it is "typically" a padded/quilted skirt worn
as light armor.  
> 
>   I say typically, because of course, there are
> variations on it.  Some were just decorative, some
> were protective. Some were attached to padded
> "bodices," others were just "coverups."
> 
>   Another, which I cannot seem to conjure up at the
> moment is of a man on one knee wearing a skirt and a
> metal curiass.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] recent history
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In a message dated 10/4/2006 6:56:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
moreplentyn@earthlink.net writes:

Use  Google image search for Cyndi Lauper.  She pretty much iconised the 80's 
 
look.



*******************
Well....one of them anyway. I don't know that I'd choose her as THE icon of  
80's style.
Remember drop waist dresses with shoulder pads?
All black clothes?
Big curly hair?
Crazy socks?
Clunky middle eastern inspired jewelry and belts?
The second hand store mix up...Cyndi's look [there's a punk and sorta waif  
version of this]
Power suits for women? [more shoulder pads]
Oversized clunky sweaters with lots of things appliqued or embroidered all  
over them? [with shoulder pads!] with leggings?
 
Go watch "Desperately Seeking Susan". 
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Hi.

We were just watching the movie Terminator a few days ago and were really 
struck by the fantastic 80's clothes.  It's rated R so depending on your 
preferences it may not be appropriate for her to watch, but you could find 
some of the scenes for her and show her.

Also a few other movies that I just thought of that might be good - 
Desperatly Seeking Susan, Sixteen Candles, The Wedding Singer.

Have fun with the 80's!

:) jessica


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Another suggestion is to do a Google image search.  Just type in 80s 
fashions and click images.  I tried that and got pages and pages of photos.

Have fun!

Like, for sure.

:)jessica


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Thanks, Lauren, Bjarne, and Denise B, for the explanation about the flax. 
What a shame, but understandable from a small farmer's viewpoint (I won't 
think about agribusiness causing this).

All the more reason to enjoy old examples of this beautiful work.

Caryn 


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] recent history
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 17:06:37 -0600
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How about Madonna?

On Oct 4, 2006, at 4:27 PM, Land of Oz wrote:

> My google skills are not bringing me what I need, so I come to the 
> costume center of the universe for help!
>
> My daughter wants to dress "1980s" for a school theme. I've described 
> the look (I lived through it!) but she really wants to see photos.  
> What I remember (small town in the midwest) was a modified version of 
> the valleygirl slash preppy. Punk didn't make it to my part of the 
> world until it was called Goth.  :-)
>
> Share links if you've got 'em, please!
> Thanks
> Denise B
> Iowa
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] recent history (1980s)
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The Breakfast Club, Pretty in Pink, and Sixteen Candles are three movies 
that show fun teenage fashions in the 1980s.  She can also watch the TV 
shows from the 1980s on cable TV, like the Cosby show.  If you have digital 
cable, she can watch the old music videos with the teen idols.  My DIL 
watches them all the time.

LOL!  Legwarmers are back for this winter!  Have you seen the Audrey Hepburn 
skinny black commercials.  I am wondering if the pants they are advertising? 
I'm wondering if they are like the pants of the 80s.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] recent history
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On Wed, 4 Oct 2006 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> Power suits for women? [more shoulder pads]

And bow blouses! Don't forget bow blouses! (I probably have a few still in
my closet, c. 1985.)

And "preppy" look, early 1980s still.

--Robin

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Thank you all for the links and movie reminders. The only movies I had that 
came close were St. Elmo's Fire and My Chauffer, so we FF through and got 
some ideas.  Having less than a day's notice we had to work with what was 
already in the house, so it was a hodge-podge, but she did get some elements 
of "the look."

It was sort of a combo of the preppy-powersuit look and the wild-child 
Lauper. Big hair with curls pulled over to a side ponytail, high-contrast 
eye make-up and dark glossy lips. Big-shouldered, long suit jacket with the 
sleeves rolled up; tux-collared white shirt with the collar points turned up 
and a big sparkle brooch over the top button (couldn't find a skinny tie). 
And a stickpin in the lapel.  It would have been better with some of those 
fingerless lace gloves, but didn't have any. We wanted to do colored pumps 
with ankle socks, but couldn't come up with that either.

She has a cross country meet tonight, she might have to dunk her head in a 
bucket to get rid of the Big Hair!  Too much wind resistance   :-)  Thanks 
for all your help!

Denise B
Iowa 

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	<001f01c6e801$fe813610$07999c04@SobelWriting>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 19:17:27 -0600
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What I'd heard/read, was that the strains of flax that produced those
ultra-fine threads went extinct about the time of WWI.
Maybe it's demand, I don't know.  Technology may also be a factor, although
I'd think that if it were just a matter of hand-spun vs machine-spun,
someone would have tried it by hand by now.  I'm learning to spin linen, but
I'm lightyears away from being that skilled!
--Sue in Montana

----- Original Message -----
From: "Caryn Sobel" <carynsobel@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white embroidery


> <It's the *fineness* of
> the linen threads used then, that can't be duplicated now.  In linen.>
>
> Please pardon my ignorance, but why can't we have the same fineness now?
Is
> it a difference in the spinning techniques, or the variety of the plant
> itself? Or a lack of demand for finer thread?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Caryn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Dancing with the Stars (US version)
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Boy, is that a show of extreme clothes! Some of the outfits are lovely, and
some of them are HIDEOUS. And some non-existent... we call the woman who
dances with Joey "Naked Girl" at our house, because her clothes are little
wisps of things, and (to my mind) not attractive in any way.

The results show Tuesday had a funny short bit about the "culture" of
competitive ballroom dancing, including the clothes, the hair, and the
(fake) tans. I really enjoyed that.

But really, I wish the women would wear more! And not just because my kids
like the show. I think people just look better wearing clothes. And I can't
imagine dancing in a glorified bikini. They must be glued on. Of course, I
can't stand the women's sand volleyball "uniforms" either.

Sara whatever-her-name-is, the one who is such a bad dancer, was supposed to
be a sort of undead passo doble dancer, I think. My husband and I laughed
all through that dance, and when it was over he reminded me that Olympic ice
dancing had to ban dying at the end of the routines, because so many couples
had done tragic death dances. I don't know if this one would count, though,
because I think she was supposed to be dead already. But the Goth-inspired
flamenco dress? Ugh!! I liked the guy's suit, though.

Gail Finke

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] glove question
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Status: RO

Hi,
I have baught myself a pair of white gloves, the type that high rank 
officers uses here in Denmark for formal occations.
I wanted to use them for my reenacting, but i wondered.
They have velcro tape at the inner wrist, wich i will remove off cause, 
should i make a dorset button and buttonhole instead?
What about the white ness of them, they are bright white, should i dip them 
in tea?

Any suggestions very much apreciated..........

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <C14ACB2E.22763%gailscott@eos.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Dancing with the Stars (US version)
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 21:20:10 +0200
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Hi
Its funny to see that you have that kinds of shows as well.
Here in Denmark they started those shows last year, and it was a hit, 
everybody was talking about them.
This year, its not that heep anymore, but they continue the shows in the 
tele. I like to watch, as i love all kinds of dansing, and the dresses off 
cause...........

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 8:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Dancing with the Stars (US version)


>
> Boy, is that a show of extreme clothes! Some of the outfits are lovely, 
> and
> some of them are HIDEOUS. And some non-existent... we call the woman who
> dances with Joey "Naked Girl" at our house, because her clothes are little
> wisps of things, and (to my mind) not attractive in any way.
>
> The results show Tuesday had a funny short bit about the "culture" of
> competitive ballroom dancing, including the clothes, the hair, and the
> (fake) tans. I really enjoyed that.
>
> But really, I wish the women would wear more! And not just because my kids
> like the show. I think people just look better wearing clothes. And I 
> can't
> imagine dancing in a glorified bikini. They must be glued on. Of course, I
> can't stand the women's sand volleyball "uniforms" either.
>
> Sara whatever-her-name-is, the one who is such a bad dancer, was supposed 
> to
> be a sort of undead passo doble dancer, I think. My husband and I laughed
> all through that dance, and when it was over he reminded me that Olympic 
> ice
> dancing had to ban dying at the end of the routines, because so many 
> couples
> had done tragic death dances. I don't know if this one would count, 
> though,
> because I think she was supposed to be dead already. But the Goth-inspired
> flamenco dress? Ugh!! I liked the guy's suit, though.
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 15:00:28 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] glove question
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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What is your time period of reenactment?

That will drive what kind of button/button hole and color.

Chiara


On Thu, October 5, 2006 2:11 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews said:
> Hi,
> I have baught myself a pair of white gloves, the type that high rank
> officers uses here in Denmark for formal occations.
> I wanted to use them for my reenacting, but i wondered.
> They have velcro tape at the inner wrist, wich i will remove off
> cause,
> should i make a dorset button and buttonhole instead?
> What about the white ness of them, they are bright white, should i
> dip them
> in tea?
>
> Any suggestions very much apreciated..........
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Dancing with the Stars (US version)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 2:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Dancing with the Stars (US version)


> Sara whatever-her-name-is, the one who is such a bad dancer, was supposed 
> to
> be a sort of undead passo doble dancer, I think. My husband and I laughed
> all through that dance, and when it was over he reminded me that Olympic 
> ice
> dancing had to ban dying at the end of the routines, because so many 
> couples
> had done tragic death dances. I don't know if this one would count, 
> though,
> because I think she was supposed to be dead already. But the Goth-inspired
> flamenco dress? Ugh!! I liked the guy's suit, though.

I loved the colors of Viveca's paso doble dress. I was sorry to see her 
leave, especially before Sara Evans, who, as bad as she is, is still a 
better dancer than I am!

I told my DH he should be grateful he works nights, or I'd be hauling his 
butt to the local Arthur Murray school.

Dianne 

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<What I'd heard/read, was that the strains of flax that produced those
ultra-fine threads went extinct about the time of WWI.
Maybe it's demand, I don't know.>

Thanks, Sue. It sounds like it may be a combination of all the factors 
mentioned; changes in plant populations, methods, *and* technology. I just 
gave in lately to needing a magnifier for embroidery, so after the ego thing 
passed, I am ready to try finer threads than I have used in years :)

Caryn 


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Subject: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
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Status: RO

I'm working on a replica of the headress worn by Princess Charlotte in this Clouet painting (1522):
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-de-fra.jpg
After much experimentation, I've come up with a pattern I'm reasonably happy with, but I just cannot make up my mind on a few points.  If you'll look at this closeup:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-detail.jpg
you should be able to see each of them.  

Issue 1: Those slashes
The closeup shows each slash with a sort of outline around it, as though each slash were bound with strips of the same fabric the hat's made of, sort of like a bound buttonhole.  It seems to me faintly unlikely that they'd go to this much trouble, and I certainly don't want to, but that's the only way I can think of to get that same exact look.  The only other options that come to mind are either a) just slash , and let it fray if it will--not too terrible an option, since the luscious heavy silk sateen I have for this is not at all prone to raveling drooldroolbragbrag--or, b) fold back a teeny hem for each slash, and stitch them into place.  Ideas? Suggestions?

Issue 2: What should the back look like? 
If you look at the bottom diagonal slash of the bag-like portion, on the other side of the circumference seam it looks a bit like there's a slash on the back that mirrors it.  Does anyone else see it?  I'm thinking I may just mirror those diagonal slashes around the edge of the back, and leave the center of the back plain, or perhaps decorate the center with pearls.  (Yes, I have a ton of glass pearls for the project.  This will be one heavy bit of headwear!)  I'd love any clever suggestions, though, as I haven't found any great backview shots of this style of headress yet.

Issue 3: that blackish semi-circle at the nape of the neck
This looks almost like a painter's mistake, or as though the paint has started to flake off to reveal a previous version, or some wierd aborted restoration attempt, or I don't know what; whatever it is, my instinct is that it's not really a part of the headwear.  If it were a part of the headwear, the only things I can think of would be a) a poor rendering of the bag's interior, seen in shadow (but I give Clouet way more credit than that!) or b) a netting of some sort.  Any ideas as to what on earth it could be?  Anyone know more about the history of this painting than I do (ie, more than nothing)?

-E House
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Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2006 00:05:14 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
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At 23:41 05/10/2006, you wrote:
>I'm working on a replica of the headress worn by Princess Charlotte 
>in this Clouet painting (1522):
>http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-de-fra.jpg
>After much experimentation, I've come up with a pattern I'm 
>reasonably happy with, but I just cannot make up my mind on a few 
>points.  If you'll look at this closeup:
>http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-detail.jpg
>you should be able to see each of them.
>
>Issue 1: Those slashes
>The closeup shows each slash with a sort of outline around it, as 
>though each slash were bound with strips of the same fabric the 
>hat's made of, sort of like a bound buttonhole.  It seems to me 
>faintly unlikely that they'd go to this much trouble, and I 
>certainly don't want to, but that's the only way I can think of to 
>get that same exact look.  The only other options that come to mind 
>are either a) just slash , and let it fray if it will--not too 
>terrible an option, since the luscious heavy silk sateen I have for 
>this is not at all prone to raveling drooldroolbragbrag--or, b) fold 
>back a teeny hem for each slash, and stitch them into place.  Ideas? 
>Suggestions?
>
>Issue 2: What should the back look like?
>If you look at the bottom diagonal slash of the bag-like portion, on 
>the other side of the circumference seam it looks a bit like there's 
>a slash on the back that mirrors it.  Does anyone else see it?  I'm 
>thinking I may just mirror those diagonal slashes around the edge of 
>the back, and leave the center of the back plain, or perhaps 
>decorate the center with pearls.  (Yes, I have a ton of glass pearls 
>for the project.  This will be one heavy bit of headwear!)  I'd love 
>any clever suggestions, though, as I haven't found any great 
>backview shots of this style of headress yet.
>
>Issue 3: that blackish semi-circle at the nape of the neck
>This looks almost like a painter's mistake, or as though the paint 
>has started to flake off to reveal a previous version, or some wierd 
>aborted restoration attempt, or I don't know what; whatever it is, 
>my instinct is that it's not really a part of the headwear.  If it 
>were a part of the headwear, the only things I can think of would be 
>a) a poor rendering of the bag's interior, seen in shadow (but I 
>give Clouet way more credit than that!) or b) a netting of some 
>sort.  Any ideas as to what on earth it could be?  Anyone know more 
>about the history of this painting than I do (ie, more than nothing)?

If you don't know it, this site might help
http://www.culture.gouv.fr/documentation/joconde/fr/pres.htm

Click on the text by the right hand top picture "Parcours thematiques"

Then click on "Portraits dessines de 16th C." in the centre column 
about half way down.

You will find hundreds, or so it seems drawings and paintings by the 
Clouets. You might find something similar to give you more clues.

Suzi

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
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Hello~!

This is so not my period of study, so I'm not much help on issues 1 & 2.
But for issue 3, I can tell you what I see.  I see a deliberate design,
not a place where the paint is flaking off or a "mistake" or sloppy
painting. Notice the perfectly straight line across the top of the black
shape, and the symmetrical curve of the bottom line. Those suggest an
opening to me. I almost fancy that I see subtle shading of gathers and
puckers along the bottom edge.  I also see tiny hatchmarks inside it,
which looks a lot like a representation of netting. It would make sense
for a woman with a lot of hair to put it up in a sturdy net, then cover
it with the fashionable outer "bag" that we see here. 

This is what I see... others may see differently!

+Linda+

-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of E House
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 6:42 PM
 Subject: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed

I'm working on a replica of the headress worn by Princess Charlotte in
this Clouet painting (1522):
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-de-fra.jpg 
After much experimentation, I've come up with a pattern I'm reasonably
happy with, but I just cannot make up my mind on a few points.  If
you'll look at this closeup:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-detail.jpg 
you should be able to see each of them.  

Issue 3: that blackish semi-circle at the nape of the neck
This looks almost like a painter's mistake, or as though the paint has
started to flake off to reveal a previous version, or some wierd aborted
restoration attempt, or I don't know what; whatever it is, my instinct
is that it's not really a part of the headwear.  If it were a part of
the headwear, the only things I can think of would be a) a poor
rendering of the bag's interior, seen in shadow (but I give Clouet way
more credit than that!) or b) a netting of some sort.  Any ideas as to
what on earth it could be?  Anyone know more about the history of this
painting than I do (ie, more than nothing)?

-E House

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 19:51:56 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Also speaking in complete ignorance, but (re 1 and 2) must the  
diagonal lines be slashes? Couldn't they be embroidery? The symmetry  
in the back makes the diagonal lines look like stylized leaves, with  
the vertical line a stylized stem, for the pearl flowers. I don't get  
the impression of actual openings, either on the "bag" or on the  
front part.

My view of the dark spot accords with Linda's--almost as if the bag  
is a straight piece, caught up under the hair, rather than a shaped  
closed bag.

I send this only as a "fresh eye," not as somebody who knows anything.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Oct 5, 2006, at 7:15 PM, Linda Rice wrote:

> Hello~!
>
> This is so not my period of study, so I'm not much help on issues 1  
> & 2.
> But for issue 3, I can tell you what I see.  I see a deliberate  
> design,
> not a place where the paint is flaking off or a "mistake" or sloppy
> painting. Notice the perfectly straight line across the top of the  
> black
> shape, and the symmetrical curve of the bottom line. Those suggest an
> opening to me. I almost fancy that I see subtle shading of gathers and
> puckers along the bottom edge.  I also see tiny hatchmarks inside it,
> which looks a lot like a representation of netting. It would make  
> sense
> for a woman with a lot of hair to put it up in a sturdy net, then  
> cover
> it with the fashionable outer "bag" that we see here.
>
> This is what I see... others may see differently!
>
> +Linda+
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On Behalf Of E House
> Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 6:42 PM
>  Subject: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
>
> I'm working on a replica of the headress worn by Princess Charlotte in
> this Clouet painting (1522):
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-de-fra.jpg
> After much experimentation, I've come up with a pattern I'm reasonably
> happy with, but I just cannot make up my mind on a few points.  If
> you'll look at this closeup:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-detail.jpg
> you should be able to see each of them.
>
> Issue 3: that blackish semi-circle at the nape of the neck
> This looks almost like a painter's mistake, or as though the paint has
> started to flake off to reveal a previous version, or some wierd  
> aborted
> restoration attempt, or I don't know what; whatever it is, my instinct
> is that it's not really a part of the headwear.  If it were a part of
> the headwear, the only things I can think of would be a) a poor
> rendering of the bag's interior, seen in shadow (but I give Clouet way
> more credit than that!) or b) a netting of some sort.  Any ideas as to
> what on earth it could be?  Anyone know more about the history of this
> painting than I do (ie, more than nothing)?
>
> -E House
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <006901c6e8d4$24fba460$6501a8c0@VMAA1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 19:41:20 -0500
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
...
> which looks a lot like a representation of netting. It would make sense
> for a woman with a lot of hair to put it up in a sturdy net, then cover
> it with the fashionable outer "bag" that we see here.

There's definitely some evidence for this idea:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/ukmWomanProfile1518StHcat156.jpg , among 
others.
I can't recall seeing any pink netted caps, but it certainly doesn't seem 
impossible to me!

I am doing the gathers at the nape of the neck; after trying all sorts of 
shaped pieces, the best result I got was an oval with a straight strip sewn 
to the edge, and about 4 inches of gathering at the bottom. It even stays on 
without pins! I extended the strip into a curvy line over the temples and 
top of the head (sorry, hard to describe) and then added on (or will add on) 
a separate stiffened piece for the whatchamadoohickey, lappety type piece 
with the pearled edges.

-E House
(PS--thanks, Suzi; I've got that site bookmarked, but I've got pretty much 
ALL the other sites bookmarked too, so I can never find one when I need it!) 

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Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 21:24:29 EDT
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Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery on CF of waistcoats
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Remember when we were looking at the costumes from "Jefferson in Paris" and  
Bjarne asked about the embroidery down the front? It met CF and the buttons 
were  slightly off CF instead of the embroidery pattern overlapping where the 
side  with the buttons goes under the buttonholes....as is the case with most  
18th century waistcoats.
 
Well on page 65 of the book 18th Century Embroidery Techniques by  Gail 
Marsh, there is a waistcoat at Gawthorpe Hall in Lancashire, UK from  1750-1770 
where the metal embroidery..."rapport embroidery"...a style where the  embroidery 
is worked up 1st and then applied to the cream satin waistcoat...  this 
embroidery meets edge to edge and the button are off center. The book says  "It 
fastens with 12 buttons and corresponding buttonholes." but I'll be damned  if I 
can even se a piece of a buttonhole! They could be under the buttons. But  it 
looks like there are no buttonholes at all. Furthermore, the way the  
waistcoat is displayed [laying on an orange table surface] the symmetrical  embroidery 
is slightly askew. Is it buttoned up or just laid edge to edge.
 
I went to the Gawthorpe Hall web site but couldn't find a picture of  it.
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4fe.78bfc79.32570a4d@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery on CF of waistcoats
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Albert Cat,

I recently photographed an 1890s embroidered ladies jacket with embroidery 
scalloped down the centerfront on both sides.  When you lay the costume down 
the embroidery sides seem to match up.  When you put the jacket on a 
dressform and button it up, the scallops do not line up correctly.  The 
buttons were not sewn in the correct positions.  The buttonholes are visible 
and are spaced at regular intervals.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2006 22:02:32 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] recent history
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Don't throw anything out... it is all coming back!
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 12:42 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] recent history



On Wed, 4 Oct 2006 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> Power suits for women? [more shoulder pads]

And bow blouses! Don't forget bow blouses! (I probably have a few still in
my closet, c. 1985.)

And "preppy" look, early 1980s still.

--Robin

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 23:19:53 -0700
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I just made a French hood and to my eyes, the dark spot (#3) is where the
back veil, (in this case a shaped bag), in attaching to the hood, hangs
free. I have seen people sew the veil all around and have also seen the back
left loose, as appears to be the case here. I see what appear to be gathers
at the back nape of the bag, which makes sense if it is the type not sewn
all the way around.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 3:42 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed


I'm working on a replica of the headress worn by Princess Charlotte in this
Clouet painting (1522):
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-de-fra.jpg
After much experimentation, I've come up with a pattern I'm reasonably happy
with, but I just cannot make up my mind on a few points.  If you'll look at
this closeup:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-detail.jpg
you should be able to see each of them.  

Issue 1: Those slashes
The closeup shows each slash with a sort of outline around it, as though
each slash were bound with strips of the same fabric the hat's made of, sort
of like a bound buttonhole.  It seems to me faintly unlikely that they'd go
to this much trouble, and I certainly don't want to, but that's the only way
I can think of to get that same exact look.  The only other options that
come to mind are either a) just slash , and let it fray if it will--not too
terrible an option, since the luscious heavy silk sateen I have for this is
not at all prone to raveling drooldroolbragbrag--or, b) fold back a teeny
hem for each slash, and stitch them into place.  Ideas? Suggestions?

Issue 2: What should the back look like? 
If you look at the bottom diagonal slash of the bag-like portion, on the
other side of the circumference seam it looks a bit like there's a slash on
the back that mirrors it.  Does anyone else see it?  I'm thinking I may just
mirror those diagonal slashes around the edge of the back, and leave the
center of the back plain, or perhaps decorate the center with pearls.  (Yes,
I have a ton of glass pearls for the project.  This will be one heavy bit of
headwear!)  I'd love any clever suggestions, though, as I haven't found any
great backview shots of this style of headress yet.

Issue 3: that blackish semi-circle at the nape of the neck
This looks almost like a painter's mistake, or as though the paint has
started to flake off to reveal a previous version, or some wierd aborted
restoration attempt, or I don't know what; whatever it is, my instinct is
that it's not really a part of the headwear.  If it were a part of the
headwear, the only things I can think of would be a) a poor rendering of the
bag's interior, seen in shadow (but I give Clouet way more credit than
that!) or b) a netting of some sort.  Any ideas as to what on earth it could
be?  Anyone know more about the history of this painting than I do (ie, more
than nothing)?

-E House
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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <001901c6e90f$6ffcaf50$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 01:26:38 -0500
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(By the way, my posts are coming out of order; there's still at least one 
floating out there somewhere.  No doubt we'll see it come in out of the blue 
in about 3 months.)

On my issue #3, I wasn't too clear--I don't doubt that it's a hole/opening; 
the part that puzzles me is the odd pink splotchy part _inside_ the hole! 
Somehow, it just doesn't look like that's how Clouet intended it to look, 
you know?  I don't know the dimensions of the painting, though, so maybe it 
wasn't meant to be examined this closely.

-E House

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Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2006 09:06:52 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 1520s French headwear
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If they are slashes, the dark line looks to me like the shadow of the upper edge of the slash, not any kind of binding.



Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] glove question
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 10:26:56 +0200
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Hi,
Its 1770 - 1780.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] glove question


> What is your time period of reenactment?
> 
> That will drive what kind of button/button hole and color.
> 
> Chiara
> 
> 
> On Thu, October 5, 2006 2:11 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews said:
>> Hi,
>> I have baught myself a pair of white gloves, the type that high rank
>> officers uses here in Denmark for formal occations.
>> I wanted to use them for my reenacting, but i wondered.
>> They have velcro tape at the inner wrist, wich i will remove off
>> cause,
>> should i make a dorset button and buttonhole instead?
>> What about the white ness of them, they are bright white, should i
>> dip them
>> in tea?
>>
>> Any suggestions very much apreciated..........
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4fe.78bfc79.32570a4d@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery on CF of waistcoats
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 11:10:07 +0200
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Status: RO

Hi,
I looked in my book, and i could not find the buttonholes either. However i 
think they might have made the buttonholes vertical in this waistcoat, if 
you look at the pattern, it is made of a silver cord in the edge and a 
little further in, there is a silver lace running along the line. Perhaps 
they made the buttonholes between the cord and the lace.
This is one of the examples i have ben spekulating a lot about. In such 
embroideries, it would really spoil to cut out splits for buttonholes. Cut 
over all the metal threads, it would unravel itself very soon. Perhaps they 
made small loops in the edge - bars to catch the buttons.
But back to the method with the embroidery. Most of these waistcoats i have 
seen, the buttonholes are worked on the embroidery, so that it sits 
corresponding to  the embroidery on the other side, and yes, some of the 
embroidery is hided, when the other side overlaps, but thats what they did. 
Tells a lot about the time, in my opinnion, about the extravagance taking 
place.
I also have found out that they didnt wear jacket and waistcoat, wich did 
not have the same embroidery, wich is a big mistake of mine, i thoaght so, 
and therefore figured i could varie my outfits a lot, but no!
Therefore i have made myself a rule, no more embroidered jackets, when the 
one i am making is finished, ill make plain jackets. Then you can use and 
choose different waistcoats, even they are embroidered. This is information 
i got recently from a book i found second hand, about Costumes and Fashion 
Clothes from the royal danish opera. The opera started in 1748 and for some 
plays, they still have the costumes, wich were second hand clothes given to 
the theater, mostly by the nobility. They could only wear their court suits 
a few times, then they had to replace them with new ones, and therefore they 
gave them to the theater. So i got myself some more mens cut to choose from, 
the book has about 5 suits, also a roquelaire.And pattern cuts. It also has 
the cut of a Henry VIII jacket, very nice.

Bjarne

--- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 3:24 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery on CF of waistcoats


> Remember when we were looking at the costumes from "Jefferson in Paris" 
> and
> Bjarne asked about the embroidery down the front? It met CF and the 
> buttons
> were  slightly off CF instead of the embroidery pattern overlapping where 
> the
> side  with the buttons goes under the buttonholes....as is the case with 
> most
> 18th century waistcoats.
>
> Well on page 65 of the book 18th Century Embroidery Techniques by  Gail
> Marsh, there is a waistcoat at Gawthorpe Hall in Lancashire, UK from 
> 1750-1770
> where the metal embroidery..."rapport embroidery"...a style where the 
> embroidery
> is worked up 1st and then applied to the cream satin waistcoat...  this
> embroidery meets edge to edge and the button are off center. The book says 
> "It
> fastens with 12 buttons and corresponding buttonholes." but I'll be damned 
> if I
> can even se a piece of a buttonhole! They could be under the buttons. But 
> it
> looks like there are no buttonholes at all. Furthermore, the way the
> waistcoat is displayed [laying on an orange table surface] the symmetrical 
> embroidery
> is slightly askew. Is it buttoned up or just laid edge to edge.
>
> I went to the Gawthorpe Hall web site but couldn't find a picture of  it.
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 23:30:46 -0700
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The slashes -looks like the painter was trying to show shadow lines, which
you'd see if the inner material wasn't tight to the outer material. I have a
book, "Historical Fashion in Detail", which shows pinked edges just left to
fray, also some small slashes. I have seen slashings in Renaissance Faire
costumes which were just cut-no binding or stitching. I actually asked
someone if they didn't fray and he said no, because they aren't washed, so
the slashes hold pretty well.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 3:42 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed


I'm working on a replica of the headress worn by Princess Charlotte in this
Clouet painting (1522):
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-de-fra.jpg
After much experimentation, I've come up with a pattern I'm reasonably happy
with, but I just cannot make up my mind on a few points.  If you'll look at
this closeup:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-detail.jpg
you should be able to see each of them.  

Issue 1: Those slashes
The closeup shows each slash with a sort of outline around it, as though
each slash were bound with strips of the same fabric the hat's made of, sort
of like a bound buttonhole.  It seems to me faintly unlikely that they'd go
to this much trouble, and I certainly don't want to, but that's the only way
I can think of to get that same exact look.  The only other options that
come to mind are either a) just slash , and let it fray if it will--not too
terrible an option, since the luscious heavy silk sateen I have for this is
not at all prone to raveling drooldroolbragbrag--or, b) fold back a teeny
hem for each slash, and stitch them into place.  Ideas? Suggestions?

Issue 2: What should the back look like? 
If you look at the bottom diagonal slash of the bag-like portion, on the
other side of the circumference seam it looks a bit like there's a slash on
the back that mirrors it.  Does anyone else see it?  I'm thinking I may just
mirror those diagonal slashes around the edge of the back, and leave the
center of the back plain, or perhaps decorate the center with pearls.  (Yes,
I have a ton of glass pearls for the project.  This will be one heavy bit of
headwear!)  I'd love any clever suggestions, though, as I haven't found any
great backview shots of this style of headress yet.

Issue 3: that blackish semi-circle at the nape of the neck
This looks almost like a painter's mistake, or as though the paint has
started to flake off to reveal a previous version, or some wierd aborted
restoration attempt, or I don't know what; whatever it is, my instinct is
that it's not really a part of the headwear.  If it were a part of the
headwear, the only things I can think of would be a) a poor rendering of the
bag's interior, seen in shadow (but I give Clouet way more credit than
that!) or b) a netting of some sort.  Any ideas as to what on earth it could
be?  Anyone know more about the history of this painting than I do (ie, more
than nothing)?

-E House
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Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 09:18:13 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] glove question
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Formal settings required the use of white gloves, do not stain them.
Let be white.

In the Victoria and Albert museum there are several examples of
white gloves from this period. It may take me a bit to find the ones
with the button closure. If you can access their website you should
be able to look for them too.

Bath Museum has images as well.

I will see what I can find but if you or anyone else finds them
first please post urls. :)

Chiara


On Fri, October 6, 2006 3:26 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews said:
> Hi,
> Its 1770 - 1780.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 10:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] glove question
>
>
>> What is your time period of reenactment?
>>
>> That will drive what kind of button/button hole and color.
>>
>> Chiara
>>
>>
>> On Thu, October 5, 2006 2:11 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews said:
>>> Hi,
>>> I have baught myself a pair of white gloves, the type that high
>>> rank
>>> officers uses here in Denmark for formal occations.
>>> I wanted to use them for my reenacting, but i wondered.
>>> They have velcro tape at the inner wrist, wich i will remove off
>>> cause,
>>> should i make a dorset button and buttonhole instead?
>>> What about the white ness of them, they are bright white, should
>>> i
>>> dip them
>>> in tea?
>>>
>>> Any suggestions very much apreciated..........
>>>
>>> Bjarne
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>>
>>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Need e-copy of TI article on Norman dress
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A woman in England has need of a copy of the article I wrote a few years
back on the development of Norman sleeve styles. I can send her a paper
copy, but I do not have an electronic one, and she is in haste to complete
an outfit for the Hastings celebration next week.

Does anyone have a copy of this and a scanner, who would be willing to
send me a scanned or otherwise e-mailable version that I could forward to
the lady in need?

The article, first printed in _Costume Research Journal_ (small
circulation and now defunct) was reprinted in the SCA's Tournaments
Illuminated magazine in Winter 2002.

--Robin



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
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E House wrote:


> 
> Issue 1: Those slashes
> The closeup shows each slash with a sort of outline around it, as though each slash were bound with strips 

I do not see binding. I see a stroke of paint that represents a shadow. 
It looks to me like her headdress is made of red velvet, which would be 
thick enough to have a narrow shadow if it was slashed like that.


> Issue 2: What should the back look like? 
> If you look at the bottom diagonal slash of the bag-like portion, on the other side of the circumference seam it looks a bit like there's a slash on the back that mirrors it.  

I see that too. I think any kind of symmetrical design will work, 
lacking direct evidence of what it really looked like.


> Issue 3: that blackish semi-circle at the nape of the neck
> This looks almost like a painter's mistake, or as though the paint has started to flake off 

It's a black hairnet under the hood. Follow the line up over her ear, 
across the top of her head. You can see the black hairnet under the 
pleated sheer gold band on the front of her hood. Note where the gold 
changes color above her ear as the hairnet tucks under and the gold band 
continues along the curve of her hood.



Dawn



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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 09:54:56 -0700
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I was fortunate enough to have lived with the US forces in Germany several
years while we were forming what is now the Kingdom (then Principality) of
Drachenwald.  One thing I treasure more than many others is a trip into the
cellars of the German History Museum in Nuremberg with the Curator.  We saw
several slashed outfits and asked how "they", meaning the people who made
the clothing for wearing, finished the slashes.  His answer was "fish glue"
on some of them.  When the conservators opened up the linings and began to
work with the garment you could still smell it very faintly.  Other items
were simply slashed across the bias and as Sharon says, they weren't washed
so they didn't fray.

Still other things such as shoes in velvet DID fray.  They were ephemera
anyway and not meant to last but be thrown/given away when they were no
longer wearable.

When we pounced on the steel shanked pearl buttons and lace cuff on several
garments he sadly admitted that they had been rented in the early 1950's for
costume balls!!! to raise money for the museum which was almost destroyed
during the War.  They had replaced the real buttons and put the cuffs on to
do as much as possible to save the costumes.  He had a picture of the loose
gown with the undergown with silver lace like overlay (see Janet Arnold) on
a lady who was holding her little lap dog in her arms and smiling for the
camera.  He had another of one of the men's outfits where the man was
holding the glory of the collection, a huge gold and silver fully rigged
ship style Nef as he poured wine or dispensed salt or spices to the diners
at a "Medieval Dinner" held in the old town hall.

At the time money was of more importance in saving the entire collection
than individual items.  The Nef originally had 110 little silver and gold
men working on it. Now there are only 10.

It's not so different now.  An important collection of manuscripts held in
the State Library of Baden in Karlsruhe, once a Duchy, will be auctioned off
in order to raise enough money to keep up the Ducal castle of Salem (the
name made me blink too) which is a school and a landmark.  They hope the
collection will bring about 70 million Euros.  Sigh!  At least the
manuscripts will probably go to good homes who will love and treasure them.
The castle, on the other hand could burn down, fall over, and sink into the
swamp (or landscape since I don't remember swamps around there :-(

Regina Romsey

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sharon at Collierfam.com

> The slashes -looks like the painter was trying to show shadow lines, which
> you'd see if the inner material wasn't tight to the outer
> material. I have a
> book, "Historical Fashion in Detail", which shows pinked edges
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] glove question
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Dear Chiara,
Many thanks for your informations.
The Dorset button i wanted to use, is a button made from linnen thread. You 
make a loop of threads wrapped several times, and makes buttonhole stitches 
over the wrapped threads. And you make "bars" over the top, to connect the 
ring.
I have made same buttons of my white linnen shirt. And it buttons on the 
inner wrist, so you would not notice it much.
Would be difficult to find a small button mould in this size, so i will 
settle with the Dorset button.
Many thanks for your informations, you are the expert of gloves.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] glove question


> Formal settings required the use of white gloves, do not stain them.
> Let be white.
>
> In the Victoria and Albert museum there are several examples of
> white gloves from this period. It may take me a bit to find the ones
> with the button closure. If you can access their website you should
> be able to look for them too.
>
> Bath Museum has images as well.
>
> I will see what I can find but if you or anyone else finds them
> first please post urls. :)
>
> Chiara
>
>
> On Fri, October 6, 2006 3:26 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews said:
>> Hi,
>> Its 1770 - 1780.
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 10:00 PM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] glove question
>>
>>
>>> What is your time period of reenactment?
>>>
>>> That will drive what kind of button/button hole and color.
>>>
>>> Chiara
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, October 5, 2006 2:11 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews said:
>>>> Hi,
>>>> I have baught myself a pair of white gloves, the type that high
>>>> rank
>>>> officers uses here in Denmark for formal occations.
>>>> I wanted to use them for my reenacting, but i wondered.
>>>> They have velcro tape at the inner wrist, wich i will remove off
>>>> cause,
>>>> should i make a dorset button and buttonhole instead?
>>>> What about the white ness of them, they are bright white, should
>>>> i
>>>> dip them
>>>> in tea?
>>>>
>>>> Any suggestions very much apreciated..........
>>>>
>>>> Bjarne
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>>>
>>>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>>>
>>>>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <022301c6e8cf$74a34810$b300a8c0@compaqub>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 20:32:27 +0200
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Hi,
Forgive an ignorant for digging in this disgussion.
Could it be that the slashes have ben forced to open, and then they are 
stitched to the orange bottom fabric? This would explain the seam like 
appearance of each slash?
The black portion in the back of the "purse" like back hood, seems to me be 
the hair wich is hided away. You can clearly see the gatherings of the hood, 
along the black portion. Maybe there is hairnet round the hair, but the 
black, would be the hair you see.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 12:41 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed


I'm working on a replica of the headress worn by Princess Charlotte in this 
Clouet painting (1522):
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-de-fra.jpg
After much experimentation, I've come up with a pattern I'm reasonably happy 
with, but I just cannot make up my mind on a few points.  If you'll look at 
this closeup:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1522clouet-charlotte-detail.jpg
you should be able to see each of them.

Issue 1: Those slashes
The closeup shows each slash with a sort of outline around it, as though 
each slash were bound with strips of the same fabric the hat's made of, sort 
of like a bound buttonhole.  It seems to me faintly unlikely that they'd go 
to this much trouble, and I certainly don't want to, but that's the only way 
I can think of to get that same exact look.  The only other options that 
come to mind are either a) just slash , and let it fray if it will--not too 
terrible an option, since the luscious heavy silk sateen I have for this is 
not at all prone to raveling drooldroolbragbrag--or, b) fold back a teeny 
hem for each slash, and stitch them into place.  Ideas? Suggestions?

Issue 2: What should the back look like?
If you look at the bottom diagonal slash of the bag-like portion, on the 
other side of the circumference seam it looks a bit like there's a slash on 
the back that mirrors it.  Does anyone else see it?  I'm thinking I may just 
mirror those diagonal slashes around the edge of the back, and leave the 
center of the back plain, or perhaps decorate the center with pearls.  (Yes, 
I have a ton of glass pearls for the project.  This will be one heavy bit of 
headwear!)  I'd love any clever suggestions, though, as I haven't found any 
great backview shots of this style of headress yet.

Issue 3: that blackish semi-circle at the nape of the neck
This looks almost like a painter's mistake, or as though the paint has 
started to flake off to reveal a previous version, or some wierd aborted 
restoration attempt, or I don't know what; whatever it is, my instinct is 
that it's not really a part of the headwear.  If it were a part of the 
headwear, the only things I can think of would be a) a poor rendering of the 
bag's interior, seen in shadow (but I give Clouet way more credit than 
that!) or b) a netting of some sort.  Any ideas as to what on earth it could 
be?  Anyone know more about the history of this painting than I do (ie, more 
than nothing)?

-E House
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] A curious French doublet
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The link to the Clouet drawings made me start looking
for this picture again. It was years ago, now, that I
asked about it and no one knew what I was talking
about. But today I found it. This is a drawing of
Admiral Coligny (1519 - 1572) from the 1560s or so, I
think, with the most pecularly cut doub let you've
ever seen.

http://www-rohan.sdsu.edu/~lavoicy/poissy/coligny.JPG

Thoughts?

MaggiRos
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Subject: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...
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Status: RO

Hi all, I finally got some pictures<http://www.saragrace.us/html/A1_GoldenAgeDressDiary_Pics.html> up on the website of the dress I am making for the Phoenix Art Museum.  I spent a few days in the New York City Fabric district, and really didn't find much I liked.  (I did buy some things, and have a few things in my stash I could use if I don't find anything I like better).

If you have any source ideas - especially for the under bodice and the black outer gown, please suggest away.  I don't hope to get anything exactly alike (obviously the under bodice was embroidered especially for this gown).  My research tells me that they stuck "mostly" with dark rich colors.  

Thanks for your help in advance!

Sg

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Very curious and interesting!  Thanks for sharing.  The only other 
asymmetrical men's doublets that come to mind are from much earlier, 
like the Barthel Beham "scorekeeper" from 1529.

What about this one:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElizabethKnollys.jpg

I've always wondered where it closes.  Is that diagonal frogging on an 
asymmetrical closure inside the loop of the necklaces?  (And I love the 
necklace going over one shoulder and under the opposite arm...)

Melanie Schuessler


MaggiRos wrote:
> The link to the Clouet drawings made me start looking
> for this picture again. It was years ago, now, that I
> asked about it and no one knew what I was talking
> about. But today I found it. This is a drawing of
> Admiral Coligny (1519 - 1572) from the 1560s or so, I
> think, with the most pecularly cut doub let you've
> ever seen.
> 
> http://www-rohan.sdsu.edu/~lavoicy/poissy/coligny.JPG
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> MaggiRos
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A curious French doublet
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> Very curious and interesting!  Thanks for sharing.  The only other 
> asymmetrical men's doublets that come to mind are from much earlier, like 
> the Barthel Beham "scorekeeper" from 1529.
>
> What about this one:
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElizabethKnollys.jpg
>
> I've always wondered where it closes.  Is that diagonal frogging on an 
> asymmetrical closure inside the loop of the necklaces?  (And I love the 
> necklace going over one shoulder and under the opposite arm...)
>
> Melanie Schuessler

I've just spent some time in Paris looking at old costume picture and 
documents.  Without looking at my notes, I seem to remember at least 3 buff 
coats or arming doublets from right around the end of the 16th-early17th 
cen. having side closures.  In one case, this was to enable the front to be 
made of three layers of leather.  Makes sense, since these were used as 
armour.  I seem to also remember some Turkish coats from the same time 
period closing on the side.

Melusine 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...
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Have you tried Designer Fabrics?  I don't know if they have what you 
need, but they have an awful lot!

http://www.designerfabrics.ca/shop/scripts/

Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler


Saragrace Knauf wrote:
 > Hi all, I finally got some
 > pictures<http://www.saragrace.us/html/A1_GoldenAgeDressDiary_Pics.html>
 > up on the website of the dress I am making for the Phoenix Art
 > Museum.  I spent a few days in the New York City Fabric district, and
 > really didn't find much I liked.  (I did buy some things, and have a
 > few things in my stash I could use if I don't find anything I like
 > better).
 >
 > If you have any source ideas - especially for the under bodice and
 > the black outer gown, please suggest away.  I don't hope to get
 > anything exactly alike (obviously the under bodice was embroidered
 > especially for this gown).  My research tells me that they stuck
 > "mostly" with dark rich colors.
 >
 > Thanks for your help in advance!
 >
 > Sg
 >
 > _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing
 > list h-costume@mail.indra.com
 > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 >



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need e-copy of TI article on Norman dress
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Robin--

I can help if need be.  If you're interested, I also have the original 
Word document and picture files, pre-layout, that you submitted to TI.

Susan

Robin Netherton wrote:
> A woman in England has need of a copy of the article I wrote a few years
> back on the development of Norman sleeve styles. I can send her a paper
> copy, but I do not have an electronic one, and she is in haste to complete
> an outfit for the Hastings celebration next week.
>
> Does anyone have a copy of this and a scanner, who would be willing to
> send me a scanned or otherwise e-mailable version that I could forward to
> the lady in need?
>
> The article, first printed in _Costume Research Journal_ (small
> circulation and now defunct) was reprinted in the SCA's Tournaments
> Illuminated magazine in Winter 2002.
>
> --Robin
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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The need has been fulfilled! Many thanks to Jean Waddie, speed-demon
scanner, and Susan and Melanie, who also offered.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A curious French doublet
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> The link to the Clouet drawings made me start looking
> for this picture again. It was years ago, now, that I
> asked about it and no one knew what I was talking
> about. But today I found it. This is a drawing of
> Admiral Coligny (1519 - 1572) from the 1560s or so, I
> think, with the most pecularly cut doub let you've
> ever seen.
>
> http://www-rohan.sdsu.edu/~lavoicy/poissy/coligny.JPG

It somewhat resembles a German doublet (or waffenrock) the way that it
closes.  Maybe the lord was from the area between France and Germany?

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
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"Become the change you want to see in the world."
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 01:00:01 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: 18th C dog leash
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So, I am taking my dog to an 18th-century re-enactment. Usually I put  
a black leather collar and leash on her for those events, but this  
time we might need to be more historically accurate than that -- the  
spring-snap hook on the leash is definitely a  modern convenience,  
and I don't know anything about 18th century harness hardware. I have  
just started squinting at 18th C pictures with dogs in them, but the  
connection between collar and leash is pretty much obscured. It does  
look like leash and collar are usually the same material, whether  
leather or rope. I'm wondering if maybe they used something like the  
modern show lead -- a leash with a ring at one end, you slip the  
other end through the ring and voila, instant slip collar. Since  
Alexander Pope was writing verses to attach to dog collars, I must  
assume there *were* separate collars -- but can anyone tell me how  
the leashes might have been attached? Yes, I see that they could just  
have been tied on, but if you own dogs you will understand why I  
think this was probably not the method of choice. Does anybody  
actually *know* how leashes were hooked to collars before the spring- 
loaded snap hook?
If I can't figure this out in time I can always just tie a rope to  
the leather collar. My dog has a lot of fur; I can hope that it will  
obscure the worst anachronisms.
Thanks!
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 00:37:07 -0700
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Ahh, the swamps of home......(apologies to "Once Upon A Mattress" fans.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wanda Pease
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 9:55 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1520s french headwear--fresh eyes needed


I was fortunate enough to have lived with the US forces in Germany several
years while we were forming what is now the Kingdom (then Principality) of
Drachenwald.  One thing I treasure more than many others is a trip into the
cellars of the German History Museum in Nuremberg with the Curator.  We saw
several slashed outfits and asked how "they", meaning the people who made
the clothing for wearing, finished the slashes.  His answer was "fish glue"
on some of them.  When the conservators opened up the linings and began to
work with the garment you could still smell it very faintly.  Other items
were simply slashed across the bias and as Sharon says, they weren't washed
so they didn't fray.

Still other things such as shoes in velvet DID fray.  They were ephemera
anyway and not meant to last but be thrown/given away when they were no
longer wearable.

When we pounced on the steel shanked pearl buttons and lace cuff on several
garments he sadly admitted that they had been rented in the early 1950's for
costume balls!!! to raise money for the museum which was almost destroyed
during the War.  They had replaced the real buttons and put the cuffs on to
do as much as possible to save the costumes.  He had a picture of the loose
gown with the undergown with silver lace like overlay (see Janet Arnold) on
a lady who was holding her little lap dog in her arms and smiling for the
camera.  He had another of one of the men's outfits where the man was
holding the glory of the collection, a huge gold and silver fully rigged
ship style Nef as he poured wine or dispensed salt or spices to the diners
at a "Medieval Dinner" held in the old town hall.

At the time money was of more importance in saving the entire collection
than individual items.  The Nef originally had 110 little silver and gold
men working on it. Now there are only 10.

It's not so different now.  An important collection of manuscripts held in
the State Library of Baden in Karlsruhe, once a Duchy, will be auctioned off
in order to raise enough money to keep up the Ducal castle of Salem (the
name made me blink too) which is a school and a landmark.  They hope the
collection will bring about 70 million Euros.  Sigh!  At least the
manuscripts will probably go to good homes who will love and treasure them.
The castle, on the other hand could burn down, fall over, and sink into the
swamp (or landscape since I don't remember swamps around there :-(

Regina Romsey

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sharon at Collierfam.com

> The slashes -looks like the painter was trying to show shadow lines, 
> which you'd see if the inner material wasn't tight to the outer 
> material. I have a book, "Historical Fashion in Detail", which shows 
> pinked edges
>

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Maybe he was "cutting edge" fashion?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of MaggiRos
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 1:12 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] A curious French doublet


The link to the Clouet drawings made me start looking
for this picture again. It was years ago, now, that I
asked about it and no one knew what I was talking
about. But today I found it. This is a drawing of
Admiral Coligny (1519 - 1572) from the 1560s or so, I
think, with the most pecularly cut doub let you've
ever seen.

http://www-rohan.sdsu.edu/~lavoicy/poissy/coligny.JPG

Thoughts?

MaggiRos
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 00:47:42 -0700
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Status: RO

If you could find printed/woven material that was similar, you could just
embroider around a motif, much easier and faster than embroidering the whole
thing. Someone on my Ren Faire site posted this:
http://www.wattsandco.com/
They said it was nice but expensive, but I seem to remember some red/black
brocade there.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 1:17 PM
To: TheRenaissanceTailor; GermanRenCostume; h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...


Hi all, I finally got some
pictures<http://www.saragrace.us/html/A1_GoldenAgeDressDiary_Pics.html> up
on the website of the dress I am making for the Phoenix Art Museum.  I spent
a few days in the New York City Fabric district, and really didn't find much
I liked.  (I did buy some things, and have a few things in my stash I could
use if I don't find anything I like better).

If you have any source ideas - especially for the under bodice and the black
outer gown, please suggest away.  I don't hope to get anything exactly alike
(obviously the under bodice was embroidered especially for this gown).  My
research tells me that they stuck "mostly" with dark rich colors.  

Thanks for your help in advance!

Sg

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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...
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At 08:47 07/10/2006, you wrote:
>If you could find printed/woven material that was similar, you could just
>embroider around a motif, much easier and faster than embroidering the whole
>thing. Someone on my Ren Faire site posted this:
>http://www.wattsandco.com/
>They said it was nice but expensive, but I seem to remember some red/black
>brocade there.

Watts and Co is very, very expensive. http://www.mperkins.com/ has 
similar fabric but is much less expesive. I use hisa fabric a lot.

Suzi


>Hi all, I finally got some
>pictures<http://www.saragrace.us/html/A1_GoldenAgeDressDiary_Pics.html> up
>on the website of the dress I am making for the Phoenix Art Museum.  I spent
>a few days in the New York City Fabric district, and really didn't find much
>I liked.  (I did buy some things, and have a few things in my stash I could
>use if I don't find anything I like better).
>
>If you have any source ideas - especially for the under bodice and the black
>outer gown, please suggest away.  I don't hope to get anything exactly alike
>(obviously the under bodice was embroidered especially for this gown).  My
>research tells me that they stuck "mostly" with dark rich colors.
>
>Thanks for your help in advance!
>
>Sg
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: 18th C dog leash
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 10:42:54 +0200
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Dear Lauren,
In galleries des modes et costumes francaise i have seen one lady walking 
the dog. She has a silk ribbon tied to the collar band of the dog. A 
matching ribbon to her dress off cause.................

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lauren Walker" <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 7:00 AM
Subject: [h-cost] OT: 18th C dog leash


> So, I am taking my dog to an 18th-century re-enactment. Usually I put  a 
> black leather collar and leash on her for those events, but this  time we 
> might need to be more historically accurate than that -- the  spring-snap 
> hook on the leash is definitely a  modern convenience,  and I don't know 
> anything about 18th century harness hardware. I have  just started 
> squinting at 18th C pictures with dogs in them, but the  connection 
> between collar and leash is pretty much obscured. It does  look like leash 
> and collar are usually the same material, whether  leather or rope. I'm 
> wondering if maybe they used something like the  modern show lead -- a 
> leash with a ring at one end, you slip the  other end through the ring and 
> voila, instant slip collar. Since  Alexander Pope was writing verses to 
> attach to dog collars, I must  assume there *were* separate collars -- but 
> can anyone tell me how  the leashes might have been attached? Yes, I see 
> that they could just  have been tied on, but if you own dogs you will 
> understand why I  think this was probably not the method of choice. Does 
> anybody  actually *know* how leashes were hooked to collars before the 
> spring- loaded snap hook?
> If I can't figure this out in time I can always just tie a rope to  the 
> leather collar. My dog has a lot of fur; I can hope that it will  obscure 
> the worst anachronisms.
> Thanks!
> Lauren
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 07:14:26 -0700
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Thanks to everyone who has offered up some sources.  I'd never seen the two in the UK.

http://www.wattsandco.com/<http://www.wattsandco.com/>
http://www.mperkins.com/<http://www.mperkins.com/> 

Melanie, I think I might have found something at designer fabrics which will work.  I have had their website bookmarked several times over the last few years, loose them, and then can never remember their name.  All I can ever remember is that they are in Canada!  They have some of the best stuff - thanks!

Sg
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Melanie Schuessler<mailto:melanie@faucet.net> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 3:51 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...


  Have you tried Designer Fabrics?  I don't know if they have what you 
  need, but they have an awful lot!

  http://www.designerfabrics.ca/shop/scripts/<http://www.designerfabrics.ca/shop/scripts/>

  Good luck,
  Melanie Schuessler


  Saragrace Knauf wrote:
   > Hi all, I finally got some
   > pictures<http://www.saragrace.us/html/A1_GoldenAgeDressDiary_Pics.html<http://www.saragrace.us/html/A1_GoldenAgeDressDiary_Pics.html>>
   > up on the website of the dress I am making for the Phoenix Art
   > Museum.  I spent a few days in the New York City Fabric district, and
   > really didn't find much I liked.  (I did buy some things, and have a
   > few things in my stash I could use if I don't find anything I like
   > better).
   >
   > If you have any source ideas - especially for the under bodice and
   > the black outer gown, please suggest away.  I don't hope to get
   > anything exactly alike (obviously the under bodice was embroidered
   > especially for this gown).  My research tells me that they stuck
   > "mostly" with dark rich colors.
   >
   > Thanks for your help in advance!
   >
   > Sg
   >
   > _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing
   > list h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
   > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>
   >



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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: 18th C dog leash
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 10:19:52 -0400
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I don't know, but could the leash have been buckled to the collar?  
Most horse equipment used to be buckled before the use of modern 
materials like nylon leads and reins and synthetic saddles.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Oct 7, 2006, at 1:00 AM, Lauren Walker wrote:

> So, I am taking my dog to an 18th-century re-enactment. Usually I put 
> a black leather collar and leash on her for those events, but this 
> time we might need to be more historically accurate than that -- the 
> spring-snap hook on the leash is definitely a  modern convenience, and 
> I don't know anything about 18th century harness hardware. I have just 
> started squinting at 18th C pictures with dogs in them, but the 
> connection between collar and leash is pretty much obscured. It does 
> look like leash and collar are usually the same material, whether 
> leather or rope. I'm wondering if maybe they used something like the 
> modern show lead -- a leash with a ring at one end, you slip the other 
> end through the ring and voila, instant slip collar. Since Alexander 
> Pope was writing verses to attach to dog collars, I must assume there 
> *were* separate collars -- but can anyone tell me how the leashes 
> might have been attached? Yes, I see that they could just have been 
> tied on, but if you own dogs you will understand why I think this was 
> probably not the method of choice. Does anybody actually *know* how 
> leashes were hooked to collars before the spring-loaded snap hook?
> If I can't figure this out in time I can always just tie a rope to the 
> leather collar. My dog has a lot of fur; I can hope that it will 
> obscure the worst anachronisms.
> Thanks!
> Lauren
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
>
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...
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Hi Suzi,
Whow, they have such metallic braid i have looked for everywhere:
http://tinyurl.com/k4q94

Many thanks Suzi


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 10:02 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...


> At 08:47 07/10/2006, you wrote:
>>If you could find printed/woven material that was similar, you could just
>>embroider around a motif, much easier and faster than embroidering the 
>>whole
>>thing. Someone on my Ren Faire site posted this:
>>http://www.wattsandco.com/
>>They said it was nice but expensive, but I seem to remember some red/black
>>brocade there.
>
> Watts and Co is very, very expensive. http://www.mperkins.com/ has similar 
> fabric but is much less expesive. I use hisa fabric a lot.
>
> Suzi
>
>
>>Hi all, I finally got some
>>pictures<http://www.saragrace.us/html/A1_GoldenAgeDressDiary_Pics.html> up
>>on the website of the dress I am making for the Phoenix Art Museum.  I 
>>spent
>>a few days in the New York City Fabric district, and really didn't find 
>>much
>>I liked.  (I did buy some things, and have a few things in my stash I 
>>could
>>use if I don't find anything I like better).
>>
>>If you have any source ideas - especially for the under bodice and the 
>>black
>>outer gown, please suggest away.  I don't hope to get anything exactly 
>>alike
>>(obviously the under bodice was embroidered especially for this gown).  My
>>research tells me that they stuck "mostly" with dark rich colors.
>>
>>Thanks for your help in advance!
>>
>>Sg
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...
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At 15:49 07/10/2006, you wrote:
>Hi Suzi,
>Whow, they have such metallic braid i have looked for everywhere:
>http://tinyurl.com/k4q94
>
>Many thanks Suzi


You can get the one on the left from Barnett Lawson too. 
http://www.bltrimmings.com/ You won't find them on the web site, but 
I know they have them in the shop, as I have bought some there. How 
much do you actually need?

Suzi

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Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2006 16:06:37 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] The perfect (costume) job, and I missed it!
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A quote from today's Daily Mirror, normally a bit 
of a scandal sheet, it is headlined "OUT OF POCKET" (their capitals.)

"Scientists have trousered Ł140,000 to study the history of women's pockets.

The handout, from taxpayers, paid for two 
researchers to examine 18th century tie-on 
pouches (!) in a  bid to 'help understand more 
clearly what they meant to those who wore them.'   (!!)

<snip>

The grant was given to Southampton's Winchester 
School of Art and Textiles three years ago. The 
study results are on display at a Bath museum."

I'd have done that for board and lodging and free 
photos! How dare they not ask me!! I took loads 
of photos in the U.S. recently of pockets. Did 
you know that on average, pockets in England are 
smaller than in the U.S? I bet they didn't put that in their research!!


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 17:07:14 +0200
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Hi Suzi,
It was the scalloped gold braid on the right, my eyes was after. Ideal for 
trimming tricornes. Also i have some dark blue ribbed silk, it would be very 
neat to trim a coat and waistcoat with.
Its not something i want now, but its nice to know you can get it.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help for fabric sources...


> At 15:49 07/10/2006, you wrote:
>>Hi Suzi,
>>Whow, they have such metallic braid i have looked for everywhere:
>>http://tinyurl.com/k4q94
>>
>>Many thanks Suzi
>
>
> You can get the one on the left from Barnett Lawson too. 
> http://www.bltrimmings.com/ You won't find them on the web site, but I 
> know they have them in the shop, as I have bought some there. How much do 
> you actually need?
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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Saragrace Knauf wrote:

 > Melanie, I think I
 > might have found something at designer fabrics which will work.  I
 > have had their website bookmarked several times over the last few
 > years, loose them, and then can never remember their name.  All I can
 > ever remember is that they are in Canada!  They have some of the best
 > stuff - thanks!

You're most welcome!

Happy shopping,
Melanie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A curious French doublet
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In a message dated 10/6/2006 11:29:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dch@inreach.com writes:

The link  to the Clouet drawings made me start looking
> for this picture again.  It was years ago, now, that I
> asked about it and no one knew what I  was talking
> about. But today I found it. This is a drawing of
>  Admiral Coligny (1519 - 1572) from the 1560s or so, I
> think, with the  most pecularly cut doub let you've
> ever seen.
>
>  http://www-rohan.sdsu.edu/~lavoicy/poissy/coligny.JPG
******************************************************************************
*****



Interesting.
 
I wonder if it's a jerkin all closed up, not really a  doublet. [there's a 
collar sandwiched between the large collar and the  shirt collar. Could that be 
a doublet collar?] and can be worn open with  the double breasted like overlap 
turned back like reevers. There's no way to  tell, that I can see, that it's 
got an underlap with buttons on it. [there is a  big round thingie, but I 
think that's some kind of medallion] But with or  without buttons, it seem more 
logical to me that the fronts are cut  symmetrically.
 
It could be the top of a long robe too, y'know.
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: 18th C dog leash
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 13:16:18 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Oh, that's too lovely! I'm sure my dog would love a silk ribbon!
Thank you!
Lauren
On Oct 7, 2006, at 4:42 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Dear Lauren,
> In galleries des modes et costumes francaise i have seen one lady  
> walking the dog. She has a silk ribbon tied to the collar band of  
> the dog. A matching ribbon to her dress off cause.................
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lauren Walker"  
> <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
> To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 7:00 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] OT: 18th C dog leash
>
>
>> So, I am taking my dog to an 18th-century re-enactment. Usually I  
>> put  a black leather collar and leash on her for those events, but  
>> this  time we might need to be more historically accurate than  
>> that -- the  spring-snap hook on the leash is definitely a  modern  
>> convenience,  and I don't know anything about 18th century harness  
>> hardware. I have  just started squinting at 18th C pictures with  
>> dogs in them, but the  connection between collar and leash is  
>> pretty much obscured. It does  look like leash and collar are  
>> usually the same material, whether  leather or rope. I'm wondering  
>> if maybe they used something like the  modern show lead -- a leash  
>> with a ring at one end, you slip the  other end through the ring  
>> and voila, instant slip collar. Since  Alexander Pope was writing  
>> verses to attach to dog collars, I must  assume there *were*  
>> separate collars -- but can anyone tell me how  the leashes might  
>> have been attached? Yes, I see that they could just  have been  
>> tied on, but if you own dogs you will understand why I  think this  
>> was probably not the method of choice. Does anybody  actually  
>> *know* how leashes were hooked to collars before the spring-  
>> loaded snap hook?
>> If I can't figure this out in time I can always just tie a rope  
>> to  the leather collar. My dog has a lot of fur; I can hope that  
>> it will  obscure the worst anachronisms.
>> Thanks!
>> Lauren
>> Lauren M. Walker
>> lauren.walker@comcast.net
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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Subject: re [h-cost] A curious French doublet
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>he link to the Clouet drawings made me start looking
>for this picture again....This is a drawing of
>Admiral Coligny (1519 - 1572) from the 1560s or so, I
>think, with the most pecularly cut doub let you've
>ever seen.

>http://www-rohan.sdsu.edu/~lavoicy/poissy/coligny.JPG


Ah ha!  This must be the source of the modern chef's jacket.  <grin>

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The perfect (costume) job, and I missed it!
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 21:22:48 +0200
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Hi,
That would have ben an interresting job. Do you happen to have any ideas why 
the american pockets was slightly bigger than the continental ones?
Could it be that the american ladies were more independent and therefore had 
more to carry arround?
Would off cause be mostly impossible to find out.
Suzi do you know of any english dresses called open gown, wich would be 
without the watteau pleats in the back? It is mostly because i have a guess 
that some dresses must have ben made without the pleats, according to the 
paintings i have seen here in Denmark. The problem is that we only have very 
few dresses preserved from the time. And isnt it a shame, the museum of 
decorative arts in copenhagen have many 18th century dresses, but they have 
never ben published. I was thinking about asking, even i know it is pricy, 
to get photocopies of the dresses, they have in their files.........

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 5:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] The perfect (costume) job, and I missed it!


>
> A quote from today's Daily Mirror, normally a bit of a scandal sheet, it 
> is headlined "OUT OF POCKET" (their capitals.)
>
> "Scientists have trousered Ł140,000 to study the history of women's 
> pockets.
>
> The handout, from taxpayers, paid for two researchers to examine 18th 
> century tie-on pouches (!) in a  bid to 'help understand more clearly what 
> they meant to those who wore them.'   (!!)
>
> <snip>
>
> The grant was given to Southampton's Winchester School of Art and Textiles 
> three years ago. The study results are on display at a Bath museum."
>
> I'd have done that for board and lodging and free photos! How dare they 
> not ask me!! I took loads of photos in the U.S. recently of pockets. Did 
> you know that on average, pockets in England are smaller than in the U.S? 
> I bet they didn't put that in their research!!
>
>
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> 


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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The perfect (costume) job, and I missed it!
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At 20:22 07/10/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>That would have ben an interresting job. Do you 
>happen to have any ideas why the american 
>pockets was slightly bigger than the continental ones?

I mentioned it to Linda Baumgarten, while she was 
showing me some of the pockets at Williamsburg, 
but because we were rather rushed by that stage 
there wasn't time to go into more detail. It will 
be an interesting project though, for my 
sabbatical next year, while making my family wedding clothes.

>Could it be that the american ladies were more 
>independent and therefore had more to carry arround?
>Would off cause be mostly impossible to find out.
>Suzi do you know of any english dresses called 
>open gown, wich would be without the watteau 
>pleats in the back? It is mostly because i have 
>a guess that some dresses must have ben made 
>without the pleats, according to the paintings i 
>have seen here in Denmark. The problem is that 
>we only have very few dresses preserved from the 
>time. And isnt it a shame, the museum of 
>decorative arts in copenhagen have many 18th 
>century dresses, but they have never ben 
>published. I was thinking about asking, even i 
>know it is pricy, to get photocopies of the 
>dresses, they have in their files.........

Bjarne - are these the same as round gowns - I 
get very confused with the terminology! I think 
there may be some in Costume in Detail, and 
probably in the Williamsburg books. There are 
certainly gowns without pleats in all of those 
books. It would be good if you could get pictures 
of the Danish gowns - there are few enough 
pictures in the book by Ellen Andersen that was 
published by the Museum, although I suppose we are lucky enough to get any.

Suzi


>>A quote from today's Daily Mirror, normally a 
>>bit of a scandal sheet, it is headlined "OUT OF POCKET" (their capitals.)
>>
>>"Scientists have trousered Ł140,000 to study the history of women's pockets.
>>
>>The handout, from taxpayers, paid for two 
>>researchers to examine 18th century tie-on 
>>pouches (!) in a  bid to 'help understand more 
>>clearly what they meant to those who wore them.'   (!!)
>>
>><snip>
>>
>>The grant was given to Southampton's Winchester 
>>School of Art and Textiles three years ago. The 
>>study results are on display at a Bath museum."
>>
>>I'd have done that for board and lodging and 
>>free photos! How dare they not ask me!! I took 
>>loads of photos in the U.S. recently of 
>>pockets. Did you know that on average, pockets 
>>in England are smaller than in the U.S? I bet 
>>they didn't put that in their research!!


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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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on 10/7/06 1:41 PM, Suzi wrote:

> Watts and Co is very, very expensive. http://www.mperkins.com/ has
> similar fabric but is much less expesive. I use hisa fabric a lot.

Thanks for posting that site! I really enjoyed it, and even with my slow
internet connection the pictures came up right away. I love those beautiful
ecclesiastical fabrics... boy, that ugly 1970s cross orphry really stood out
against all the other classic designs. I guess they needed something
"modern." Ugh!

Gail Finke

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Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 10:59:40 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need e-copy of TI article on Norman dress
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Happy to help.  I just thought, if I was trying to finish a dress this 
weekend for next weekend, I would be drumming my fingers and pacing the 
floor if I couldn't get on with it first thing Saturday morning!

Jean


Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote
>
>The need has been fulfilled! Many thanks to Jean Waddie, speed-demon
>scanner, and Susan and Melanie, who also offered.
>
>--Robin
>
>
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-- 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] stock kravat buckle, 18th century
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Hi,
Does anybody here know how the stock kravat buckle was fastened to the stock 
kravat? I made some small bars to attach to the small nails in the buckle, 
but everytime i fumble and try to tie it on my neck, it goes off. I have 
desided to sew it very tightly to the small nails.
Another question is the 2 spears, are they just forced into the band? I was 
considering making small holes and work them with thread, to the spears?
Same with the knee buckles, those spears are quite big, and are they also 
just pierced into the knee band?
It is reproduktion buckles i have, and i think they are correct.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2006 07:53:28 -0400
From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stock kravat buckle, 18th century
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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     The end of the buckle that attached to the stock, with whta I believe 
you are describing as "small nails" are placed through small eylets that are 
sewn into the end of the stock.  They just hold themselves in similiar to 
how a 19th century shirt stud holds itself in. No "bar" should be needed. 
The "spears" simply go into the stock.  You could work holes for them, but 
then you will lose the adaptable nature of the buckle.  I can't speak to 
other materials, but linen holds up well to this process, though with time 
and daily wear my expereince is that they will eventually fail.

    I would recommend however Bjarne, that you look for some original 
buckles.  My understanding is that paste buckles may easily be found in 
Europe, I know this is so in Britain.  Original buckles tend to be better 
made than repros and more importantly far fancier ones may be found which is 
more in keeping with the sort of work you do.

Ron Carnegie


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 6:43 AM
Subject: [h-cost] stock kravat buckle, 18th century


> Hi,
> Does anybody here know how the stock kravat buckle was fastened to the 
> stock kravat? I made some small bars to attach to the small nails in the 
> buckle, but everytime i fumble and try to tie it on my neck, it goes off. 
> I have desided to sew it very tightly to the small nails.
> Another question is the 2 spears, are they just forced into the band? I 
> was considering making small holes and work them with thread, to the 
> spears?
> Same with the knee buckles, those spears are quite big, and are they also 
> just pierced into the knee band?
> It is reproduktion buckles i have, and i think they are correct.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The perfect (costume) job, and I missed it!
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In a message dated 10/7/2006 4:07:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Suzi do  you know of any English dresses called 
>open gown, 


******************
 
 are these the same as round gowns 
 
*****************
 
Uno momento....
 
Round Gowns are called Round Gowns, I thought, because they went all the  way 
'round....as in they were not the open robes so ubiquitous throughout  the 
18th century. So I doubt they would be the same as something called an  "open 
gown"
But you never know.
Y'know, I was just looking at some pics of some Quaker gowns from the 1770s  
that are cut in the familiar fashion, with the CF bodice closing edge to  
edge, the back English, but also without an open skirt and petticoat. Instead is  
a skirt that closes all the way round, it having a front panel like an  apron 
that is not stitched to the bodice like the rest of the skirt. Not  unlike a 
gown in Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" 18th century  volume...but earlier 
than that gown [which is 1790s I think] Definitely a gown  that goes all the 
way 'round but not a Round Gown.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The perfect (costume) job, and I missed it!
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At 21:55 08/10/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 10/7/2006 4:07:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
>Suzi do  you know of any English dresses called
> >open gown,
>
>
>******************
>
>  are these the same as round gowns
>
>*****************
>
>Uno momento....
>
>Round Gowns are called Round Gowns, I thought, because they went all the  way
>'round....as in they were not the open robes so ubiquitous throughout  the
>18th century. So I doubt they would be the same as something called an  "open
>gown"
>But you never know.
>Y'know, I was just looking at some pics of some Quaker gowns from the 1770s
>that are cut in the familiar fashion, with the CF bodice closing edge to
>edge, the back English, but also without an open skirt and 
>petticoat. Instead is
>a skirt that closes all the way round, it having a front panel like an  apron
>that is not stitched to the bodice like the rest of the skirt. Not  unlike a
>gown in Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" 18th 
>century  volume...but earlier
>than that gown [which is 1790s I think] Definitely a gown  that goes all the
>way 'round but not a Round Gown.

I think I must have had a senior moment when writing my answer! A 
round gown doesn't have pleats as the back but has  a shaped back. 
That is what I meant by "Are these the same as round gowns" - the 
sentence should have read - "Do these have the same back as round 
gowns?" Long explanation for stupid question!

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS
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I'm just watching the Casanova with Peter O'Toole on Masterpiece  
Theatre, and I must ask -- any chance that the women's hairstyle of  
curls or curled-up tiny braids interspersed with many little ribbons  
is an authentic 18th C one? (Henriette wears it, at least throughout  
Part I, which is all I've seen so far.)  It's so much more fun than  
the French court towers of powdered hair...
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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	clothes......
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I was wondering about the ladies clothes, it was supposed to be 1740 ,Venice  Italy and all the gowns look like French court dresses.....is any of the dress or hairstyles correct?...anyone?
  

Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
  I'm just watching the Casanova with Peter O'Toole on Masterpiece 
Theatre, and I must ask -- any chance that the women's hairstyle of 
curls or curled-up tiny braids interspersed with many little ribbons 
is an authentic 18th C one? (Henriette wears it, at least throughout 
Part I, which is all I've seen so far.) It's so much more fun than 
the French court towers of powdered hair...
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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Subject: [h-cost] Early 1800's "underpinnings" and accessories questons.
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Hi all - I always know this is a good starting place for things outside my normal purvey.  I have been asked to recreate "a slip" for this gown:  http://www.coraginsburg.com/catalogues/2004/cat2004pg10&11.htm<http://wwwcoraginsburg.com/catalogues/2004/cat2004pg10&11.htm>

The curator refers to it as a slip, but I think what she really means is a lining. (I haven't actually seen the gown yet - I will know more Wednesday.)  She thinks it would have been made out of china silk...my experience with china silk is that it is pretty sheer.  Does anyone know if there were heavier china silks at this time?  Would it have been considered improper to be able to see any shape of the legs through the gown if the lighting were 
"just right?"

Also, the catalog says she would have worn gloves and a headdress.  My limited knowledge of this time tells me:
Long gloves - would they be coordinated in color?
Headdress - pretty simple - more like a decoration rather than an actual hat.


I'd like to hear what you think.


Sg
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early 1800's "underpinnings" and accessories questons.
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In a message dated 10/9/2006 10:32:10 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wickedfrau@msn.com writes:

Hi all -  I always know this is a good starting place for things outside my 
normal  purvey.  I have been asked to recreate "a slip" for this  gown


 
What was called a "slip" we would probably call an underdress.  It was  cut 
pretty much just like a dress, with waistline seam.  Sometimes a  sleeve, 
sometimes not--a puffed sleeve on the underdress would, though, help  provide 
support for the outer sheer sleeve.
 
China silk probably is a bit lightweight.  I've used a medium-weight  silk 
twill for a similar purpose, simply because I could find it.  I'm just  guessing 
maybe cream color for a bright yellow dress like that.  There is,  I believe, 
an 1807 or so fashion plate described as a yellow dress with a cream  slip.  
"Nude," or peach color, would have been common under a white dress  that early 
in the century.  By the second decade, you see bright colors,  like red or 
bright pink, under a sheer white dress.
 
Gloves would be elbow length.  White is always right.  One does  see colors, 
but not necessarily what we would think of as coordinating--violet,  for 
example.
 
If the dress weren't so early, I would go with a turban for headgear, but I  
think they are more appropriate for 1810 and later.  So, yes, some fancy  hair 
ornaments--maybe yellow plumes and pearls.  Is the trim brown?   Maybe amber 
or tortoise shell ornaments of some kind then--jeweled combs or  something 
similar--to pick up that color?
 
I take it you are doing this so the garment can be on display at a  museum.  
When appropriate, please let us know where and when.
 
Ann Wass

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 18th century dog leash
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I knew I'd seen antique brass dog collars, but can't remember how the
leash was attached. The only one thrown up by a quick Google search is
http://www.alistairsampson.com/productdetails.asp?product_id=85 . I see
this has a rectangular slot which could have had a leather strap buckled
through it.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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Thank you for the pointers Ann.  

The dress will be on display at the Phoenix Art Museum.  They are opening a new wing, partly for the fashion department, in January 2007.  I think that is when they would like it.  But they have me doing some other very time consuming things for the Rijksmuseum Golden Age Exhibit....those will probably take precedence.


Sg

  I take it you are doing this so the garment can be on display at a  museum.  
  When appropriate, please let us know where and when.
   
  Ann Wass

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early 1800's "underpinnings" and accessories questons.
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
<snikp>
<<But they have me doing some other very time consuming things for the 
Rijksmuseum Golden Age Exhibit....those will probably take precedence.>>

The Rijksmuseum has some of my favorite paintings!  Can you tell me any more 
about this: when, where, & what?  The husband and I hope that this winter, 
we'll finally take our long-planned wander-around-the-west trip, and if 
there's something I can see on the way I'd be delighted.

-E House 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Early 1800's "underpinnings" and accessories questions.
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Hi Saragrace,

Sadly, I'm unable to see your link :(  and I'm finding the h-cost posting 
system almost impossible to use.  It keeps bouncing my message!  This is 
the last try.

I've been collecting images of under-gowns and bodiced petticoats just as 
recently as yesterday.  I hope this will help you out.

http
://tinyurl.com/f8fm3

The first two images in the file are from the Manchester Galleries.  Both 
are cotton, I believe.  Perhaps your curator is thinking of something like 
the sleeved Manchester galleries garment, which almost looks like an 
under-gown to me.  If she wants China silk (habitoi - it comes in different 
weights0 you may want two undergarments - a cotton slip something like the 
version with the under-flaps and simple front placket (you could also do a 
back closure) plus the silk undergown.

Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early 1800's "underpinnings" and accessories questons.
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http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/832/<http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/832/>

E - this has the information.  Look way down at the bottom of the page.  Hopefully you'll come to see it when it is Phoenix!

Thanks for your interest,
Saragrace
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: E House<mailto:formfunc@formfunction.org> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 8:41 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early 1800's "underpinnings" and accessories questons.



  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com<mailto:wickedfrau@msn.com>>
  <snikp>
  <<But they have me doing some other very time consuming things for the 
  Rijksmuseum Golden Age Exhibit....those will probably take precedence.>>

  The Rijksmuseum has some of my favorite paintings!  Can you tell me any more 
  about this: when, where, & what?  The husband and I hope that this winter, 
  we'll finally take our long-planned wander-around-the-west trip, and if 
  there's something I can see on the way I'd be delighted.

  -E House 

  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>
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Yikes,
I caught bits and pieces of Casanova while I was taping. It's atrocious! Casanova was wearing a red shirt that buttoned down the front (not in 1740!), as well as a black neckcloth. I've seen black stocks, but not black jabots. Ladies had aqua lace engagentes (sleeve lace). I've seen many an 18th century gown and I've never seen colored lace on sleeves like that. And don't get me started on the women's hair!
 
Awful.
 
Kathleen Norvell
 
   
-----Original Message-----
From: celticredhead2002@yahoo.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 4:01 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS........ I was wonder too about the clothes......


I was wondering about the ladies clothes, it was supposed to be 1740 ,Venice  
Italy and all the gowns look like French court dresses.....is any of the dress 
or hairstyles correct?...anyone?
  

Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
  I'm just watching the Casanova with Peter O'Toole on Masterpiece 
Theatre, and I must ask -- any chance that the women's hairstyle of 
curls or curled-up tiny braids interspersed with many little ribbons 
is an authentic 18th C one? (Henriette wears it, at least throughout 
Part I, which is all I've seen so far.) It's so much more fun than 
the French court towers of powdered hair...
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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	Mon, 09 Oct 2006 15:47:23 PDT
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 15:47:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS........ I was wonder too about the
	clothes......
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Before it was over, I decided that it is meant to be
looked at in the same frame of mind as, say A Knight's
Tale. The script was fantastic--both in the sence of
wonderful/funny and off-beat. The color pallette, like
the dance music and the hair, just a little peculiar.

This was clearly Venice in a not-entirely-parallel
dimension.  But I loved it anyway.

MaggiRos
~who has not been out of love with Peter O'Toole,
ever.

--- appin1@aol.com wrote:

> Yikes,
> I caught bits and pieces of Casanova while I was
> taping. It's atrocious! Casanova was wearing a red
> shirt that buttoned down the front (not in 1740!),
> as well as a black neckcloth. I've seen black
> stocks, but not black jabots. Ladies had aqua lace
> engagentes (sleeve lace). I've seen many an 18th
> century gown and I've never seen colored lace on
> sleeves like that. And don't get me started on the
> women's hair!
>  
> Awful.
>  
> Kathleen Norvell
>  
>    
> -----Original Message-----
> From: celticredhead2002@yahoo.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 4:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS........ I was
> wonder too about the clothes......
> 
> 
> I was wondering about the ladies clothes, it was
> supposed to be 1740 ,Venice  
> Italy and all the gowns look like French court
> dresses.....is any of the dress 
> or hairstyles correct?...anyone?
>   
> 
> Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
>   I'm just watching the Casanova with Peter O'Toole
> on Masterpiece 
> Theatre, and I must ask -- any chance that the
> women's hairstyle of 
> curls or curled-up tiny braids interspersed with
> many little ribbons 
> is an authentic 18th C one? (Henriette wears it, at
> least throughout 
> Part I, which is all I've seen so far.) It's so much
> more fun than 
> the French court towers of powdered hair...
> Lauren
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
>         
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the  new Yahoo.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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> free safety and security tools, free access to
> millions of high-quality videos from across the web,
> free AOL Mail and more.
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Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 21:13:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS........ I was wonder too about the
	clothes......
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Interesting observation about the similarities of this show and A Knight's Tale....... Funny fact is the girl playing the romantic lead "Henriette" was the female Blacksmith _IN_ "A Knight's Tale"...

MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:  Before it was over, I decided that it is meant to be
looked at in the same frame of mind as, say A Knight's
Tale. The script was fantastic--both in the sence of
wonderful/funny and off-beat. The color pallette, like
the dance music and the hair, just a little peculiar.

This was clearly Venice in a not-entirely-parallel
dimension. But I loved it anyway.

MaggiRos
~who has not been out of love with Peter O'Toole,
ever.

--- appin1@aol.com wrote:

> Yikes,
> I caught bits and pieces of Casanova while I was
> taping. It's atrocious! Casanova was wearing a red
> shirt that buttoned down the front (not in 1740!),
> as well as a black neckcloth. I've seen black
> stocks, but not black jabots. Ladies had aqua lace
> engagentes (sleeve lace). I've seen many an 18th
> century gown and I've never seen colored lace on
> sleeves like that. And don't get me started on the
> women's hair!
> 
> Awful.
> 
> Kathleen Norvell
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: celticredhead2002@yahoo.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 4:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS........ I was
> wonder too about the clothes......
> 
> 
> I was wondering about the ladies clothes, it was
> supposed to be 1740 ,Venice 
> Italy and all the gowns look like French court
> dresses.....is any of the dress 
> or hairstyles correct?...anyone?
> 
> 
> Lauren Walker wrote:
> I'm just watching the Casanova with Peter O'Toole
> on Masterpiece 
> Theatre, and I must ask -- any chance that the
> women's hairstyle of 
> curls or curled-up tiny braids interspersed with
> many little ribbons 
> is an authentic 18th C one? (Henriette wears it, at
> least throughout 
> Part I, which is all I've seen so far.) It's so much
> more fun than 
> the French court towers of powdered hair...
> Lauren
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
> 
> 
> 
> > 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS....
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> Interesting observation about the similarities of this show and A Knight's 
> Tale....... Funny fact is the girl playing the romantic lead "Henriette" 
> was the female Blacksmith _IN_ "A Knight's Tale"...
>


THANK YOU!  I knew I recognized her, but I *could not* place her, and I 
didn't recognize or catch all the names of people in the credits, which went 
by too fast anyway.  :-)

I agree with the previous critics -- great entertainment, but even a 
clueless costume fan like me can tell that it's a modern interpretation 
designed to appeal to modern audiences who are *not* costume experts. Lovely 
colors and fun hair styles. The one gown that Henriette wears (green?) could 
have used something under it though -- the hoop made such a sharp line.

What is with that black neck wrapping, anyway? He wears it with every single 
type of outfit, from ball-fancy to prison wear.  It made me think he must 
have a big tattoo there, or something!

Denise B
Iowa 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS........ I was wonder too about
	theclothes......
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MaggiRos" <maggiros@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 8:47 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS........ I was wonder too about 
theclothes......


> Before it was over, I decided that it is meant to be
> looked at in the same frame of mind as, say A Knight's
> Tale. The script was fantastic--both in the sence of
> wonderful/funny and off-beat. The color pallette, like
> the dance music and the hair, just a little peculiar.
>
> This was clearly Venice in a not-entirely-parallel
> dimension.  But I loved it anyway.
>
> MaggiRos
> ~who has not been out of love with Peter O'Toole,
> ever.
>
Yep, I saw it when it was on in Australia almost a year ago (I think) I 
loved it as a story and the costumes looked pretty and they were enough like 
the real thing that it didn't really jar (though I'm an 18th century novice) 
my recollection of it is that, at least for the first half, the overall look 
isn't too bad (and I didn't have enough knowledge of the 18th century to 
know that those were French fashions that don't belong in Venice) and in the 
second half the anachronisms are clearly deliberate and not intended to 
really fool anybody (it's the insidious ones I don't like, they start myths 
that you have to spend a long time beating out of new costumers, Scarlett 
O'Hara's 16 inch waist is probably the biggest example). I agree with you 
that the script was fabulous, the acting was also very good (with maybe one 
or two exceptions among the minor characters).
*SPOILER ALERT* Don't read any further if you haven't seen the end and don't 
want to find out whether it has a happy or sad ending (though I'm not giving 
anything else away)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
And I bawled my eyes out at the end when the letter arrives.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Event query
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Hello the list!
A friend sent me this website because he knows I "like this stuff."

http://www.oook.cz/events/hradec-kralove06/

Can anyone tell me what event I'm looking at?
Pretty colors, eh?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Oct 9, 2006, at 11:57 AM, Dawn Luckham wrote:

> Hi Saragrace,
>
> Sadly, I'm unable to see your link :(  and I'm finding the h-cost  
> posting system almost impossible to use.  It keeps bouncing my  
> message!  This is the last try.
>
> I've been collecting images of under-gowns and bodiced petticoats  
> just as recently as yesterday.  I hope this will help you out.
>
> http
> ://tinyurl.com/f8fm3
>
> The first two images in the file are from the Manchester  
> Galleries.  Both are cotton, I believe.  Perhaps your curator is  
> thinking of something like the sleeved Manchester galleries  
> garment, which almost looks like an under-gown to me.  If she wants  
> China silk (habitoi - it comes in different weights0 you may want  
> two undergarments - a cotton slip something like the version with  
> the under-flaps and simple front placket (you could also do a back  
> closure) plus the silk undergown.
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
> Hello the list!
> A friend sent me this website because he knows I "like this stuff."
>
> http://www.oook.cz/events/hradec-kralove06/
>
> Can anyone tell me what event I'm looking at?
> Pretty colors, eh?
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
I have no idea what event it is but the photos are gorgeous. When I was 
stationed in southern Italy I attended a multi-day event in Otranto 
where the four quarters of the city competed in jousting, wrestling and 
so forth to see which quarter had first rights to take water from the 
city well. The whole thing was done in 14th century armor and clothing 
as the tradition went back to at least that far. I wonder if this is 
something similar...

Edlyn
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My Polish friend, Ela, Tells me that it might be Czechoslovakian or 
Hungarian, but the only sense it made to her was that "Hradek Kralove" is 
the name of a person.  Good luck from there...

Laurie


>From: "edlyn@arquillalabs.com" <edlyn@arquillalabs.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Event query
>Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 17:00:19 -0400
>
>Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
>>Hello the list!
>>A friend sent me this website because he knows I "like this stuff."
>>
>>http://www.oook.cz/events/hradec-kralove06/
>>
>>Can anyone tell me what event I'm looking at?
>>Pretty colors, eh?
>>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>>
>I have no idea what event it is but the photos are gorgeous. When I was 
>stationed in southern Italy I attended a multi-day event in Otranto where 
>the four quarters of the city competed in jousting, wrestling and so forth 
>to see which quarter had first rights to take water from the city well. The 
>whole thing was done in 14th century armor and clothing as the tradition 
>went back to at least that far. I wonder if this is something similar...
>
>Edlyn
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS........ I was wonder too about
	theclothes......
To: h-costume@indra.com
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I saw it - lord - 12 - 18 months ago (?) when it was originally aired on the 
beeb.

And I have to say, I thought the costumes were fantastic!!

>From a historical perspective, absolutely pants, but, as already said, more 
in the vein of a knight's tale, meant to convey a particular impression to 
modern eyes - which I really do think it did brilliantly.

Plus, it was incredibly well written and acted (Peter O'Toole and David 
Tennant in particular both as wonderful as ever).

And me too on the bawling!!

debs


In a message dated 10/10/06 7:03:09 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 01:17:57 +1000
> From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS........ I was wonder too about
>   theclothes......
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <003301c6ec7f$44d6fe20$07def5dc@user4712b7d135>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>   reply-type=original
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "MaggiRos" <maggiros@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 8:47 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS........ I was wonder too about 
> theclothes......
> 
> 
> >Before it was over, I decided that it is meant to be
> >looked at in the same frame of mind as, say A Knight's
> >Tale. The script was fantastic--both in the sence of
> >wonderful/funny and off-beat. The color pallette, like
> >the dance music and the hair, just a little peculiar.
> >
> >This was clearly Venice in a not-entirely-parallel
> >dimension.  But I loved it anyway.
> >
> >MaggiRos
> >~who has not been out of love with Peter O'Toole,
> >ever.
> >
> Yep, I saw it when it was on in Australia almost a year ago (I think) I 
> loved it as a story and the costumes looked pretty and they were enough like 
> 
> the real thing that it didn't really jar (though I'm an 18th century novice) 
> 
> my recollection of it is that, at least for the first half, the overall look 
> 
> isn't too bad (and I didn't have enough knowledge of the 18th century to 
> know that those were French fashions that don't belong in Venice) and in the 
> 
> second half the anachronisms are clearly deliberate and not intended to 
> really fool anybody (it's the insidious ones I don't like, they start myths 
> that you have to spend a long time beating out of new costumers, Scarlett 
> O'Hara's 16 inch waist is probably the biggest example). I agree with you 
> that the script was fabulous, the acting was also very good (with maybe one 
> or two exceptions among the minor characters).
> *SPOILER ALERT* 

<snip> so nobody reads it by mistake!!
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Drat.  As I was flipping though the tv guide, I saw this, and almost decided 
to watch it, but found something else.  I assumed it would be... something 
entirely different from what it apparently was.  Honestly and no offense 
intended, a lot of the costume flicks that my fellow costumiers like just 
plain bore the crap out of me.  Here's hoping that they or bbc america show 
it again sometime!  (Oooh, look, Dr. Who!)

-E House
PS--Ah ha!  They're showing it again on the 15th. 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Event query
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> >Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:

>A friend sent me this website because he knows I
> "like this stuff."
>
> http://www.oook.cz/events/hradec-kralove06/
> >>
> >>Can anyone tell me what event I'm looking at?

> >>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner

I wonder why they are jousting on the wrong sides of
the barrier.

You're supposed to aim your spear at your oponent's
shield, thereby ensuring he is aiming at yours, not
your less protected side.  

I.e., pass to the right, with the lance crossing the
horse's neck and couched against your shield.

Ann in CT

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E House wrote:

> Drat.  

...
  Here's hoping that
> they or bbc america show it again sometime!  (Oooh, look, Dr. Who!)
> 

Yeah, I wish I had heard about it before it aired. I don't even channel 
flip anymore, there's so much bad TV out there.

> -E House
> PS--Ah ha!  They're showing it again on the 15th.

I think that's part two. Wish they would rerun part one sometime during 
the week.



Dawn


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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Event query
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 22:34:07 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Oct 10, 2006, at 1:46 PM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:

> Hello the list!
> A friend sent me this website because he knows I "like this stuff."
>
> http://www.oook.cz/events/hradec-kralove06/
>
> Can anyone tell me what event I'm looking at?

The following web site might give a good clue -- it looks like a  
civic pageant rather than a re-enactment club.

<http://www.vitejte.cz/objekt.php?oid=2083&j=en>

(Hradec Kralove is the name of the town where your pictures were taken.)

Heather
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS
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Status: RO



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS


> Drat.  As I was flipping though the tv guide, I saw this, and almost 
> decided to watch it, but found something else.  I assumed it would be... 
> something entirely different from what it apparently was.  Honestly and no 
> offense intended, a lot of the costume flicks that my fellow costumiers 
> like just plain bore the crap out of me.  Here's hoping that they or bbc 
> america show it again sometime!  (Oooh, look, Dr. Who!)

obligatory cheer...Yay Dr Who!

Now if I could just remember to watch it before the DVR wipes it 
automatically....

Dianne 

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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Event query
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I sent the link to a Hungarian friend - this is what I
just got back:

I do not speak fluent czech, but it is about Slav
kings - I guess, a medieval fair of enacment some sort
in Slovaquia or the Czech Republic. Nice pictures
though.


--- Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
wrote:

> Hello the list!
> A friend sent me this website because he knows I
> "like this stuff."
> 
> http://www.oook.cz/events/hradec-kralove06/
> 
> Can anyone tell me what event I'm looking at?
> Pretty colors, eh?
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> 
> On Oct 9, 2006, at 11:57 AM, Dawn Luckham wrote:
> 
> > Hi Saragrace,
> >
> > Sadly, I'm unable to see your link :(  and I'm
> finding the h-cost  
> > posting system almost impossible to use.  It keeps
> bouncing my  
> > message!  This is the last try.
> >
> > I've been collecting images of under-gowns and
> bodiced petticoats  
> > just as recently as yesterday.  I hope this will
> help you out.
> >
> > http
> > ://tinyurl.com/f8fm3
> >
> > The first two images in the file are from the
> Manchester  
> > Galleries.  Both are cotton, I believe.  Perhaps
> your curator is  
> > thinking of something like the sleeved Manchester
> galleries  
> > garment, which almost looks like an under-gown to
> me.  If she wants  
> > China silk (habitoi - it comes in different
> weights0 you may want  
> > two undergarments - a cotton slip something like
> the version with  
> > the under-flaps and simple front placket (you
> could also do a back  
> > closure) plus the silk undergown.
> >
> > Dawn
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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From: "Diane Maynard" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Event query
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If you check closely, they are going to their post and saluting their
opponent when they are on the wrong side.  There are only one or two
pictures when they are actually jousting and, they are on the correct side
at that time.  Interesting pictures.

Diane
 



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ann Catelli
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 6:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Event query


> >Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:

>A friend sent me this website because he knows I
> "like this stuff."
>
> http://www.oook.cz/events/hradec-kralove06/
> >>
> >>Can anyone tell me what event I'm looking at?

> >>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner

I wonder why they are jousting on the wrong sides of
the barrier.

You're supposed to aim your spear at your oponent's
shield, thereby ensuring he is aiming at yours, not
your less protected side.  

I.e., pass to the right, with the lance crossing the
horse's neck and couched against your shield.

Ann in CT

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS, rambling OTwards
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>

> Yeah, I wish I had heard about it before it aired. I don't even channel 
> flip anymore, there's so much bad TV out there.

Ugh yeah, no kidding. Though I have managed to find 3 tv shows that I like, 
which is quite an improvement from the previous none.

> I think that's part two. Wish they would rerun part one sometime during 
> the week.

Grumph.  Oh well, it's better than nothing!  At least I know to keep an eye 
out for it now.

-E House

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Subject: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?
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First, I can't read a word of this site.

www.nb.no/.../html/italienske_tresnitt.html


But it looks like 16th century Norse (?) drawings of clothing. Check out 
the pics near the end of women with pipes in their mouths and spinning 
in hand. At least, I think it's a pipe, it's a stick with fire coming 
out of it.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS, rambling OTwards
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On Oct 11, 2006, at 12:40 PM, E House wrote:

> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
>
>> Yeah, I wish I had heard about it before it aired. I don't even  
>> channel flip anymore, there's so much bad TV out there.
>
> Ugh yeah, no kidding. Though I have managed to find 3 tv shows that  
> I like, which is quite an improvement from the previous none.
>
>> I think that's part two. Wish they would rerun part one sometime  
>> during the week.
>
> Grumph.  Oh well, it's better than nothing!  At least I know to  
> keep an eye out for it now.
>
> -E House
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?
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Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:

> First, I can't read a word of this site.
>
> www.nb.no/.../html/italienske_tresnitt.html
>
>
> But it looks like 16th century Norse (?) drawings of clothing. Check
> out the pics near the end of women with pipes in their mouths and
> spinning in hand. At least, I think it's a pipe, it's a stick with fire
> coming out of it.
>

Dawn, that URL doesn't seem to sork for me.  It redirects to this
http://www.nb.no/.../html/index.php
which has no images on it.  Were you by any chance "caught in a frame?"

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Dawn wrote:

> But it looks like 16th century Norse (?) drawings of clothing. Check out 
> the pics near the end of women with pipes in their mouths and spinning 
> in hand. At least, I think it's a pipe, it's a stick with fire coming 
> out of it.

Let me try that again. It mangled the link.

http://www.nb.no/nbvev/eksternvev/html/italienske_tresnitt.html



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?
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Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:

> Dawn wrote:
>
>> But it looks like 16th century Norse (?) drawings of clothing.   
>> Check out the pics near the end of women with pipes in their mouths  
>>  and spinning in hand. At least, I think it's a pipe, it's a stick   
>> with fire coming out of it.
>
> Let me try that again. It mangled the link.
>
> http://www.nb.no/nbvev/eksternvev/html/italienske_tresnitt.html
>

*NEAT*  Those are just too cool.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Event query
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 15:08:47 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Fun with Google reveals that
> Hradec Kralove is called City of Bohemia Queens.
>
> The city is among the oldest Bohemian towns - historical sources  
> date it back to 1225. In the Middle Ages it was a dowry town of  
> Czech Queens. In the same time was built Cathedral of the Holy Spirit.
>
> Hradec Kralove was transformed into an extensive military fort in  
> the Rococo. After its demolition of the fortifications, the town  
> received a new modernistic outlook. Many remarkable architects  
> participated in the design, for example Jan Kotera and Josef Gocar.
>
> Hradec Kralove is the political, economic and cultural centre of  
> the region today.

"Kralovsky Eilsky" appears to be the name of the 14th-century part of  
the city, and "slavnosti" is "celebration." So as a wild guess I'm  
going to say it's the celebration of the old city.
But it is just a Google-search with some logic applied. Your mileage  
may vary.
Lauren
On Oct 11, 2006, at 10:45 AM, Diane Maynard wrote:

> If you check closely, they are going to their post and saluting their
> opponent when they are on the wrong side.  There are only one or two
> pictures when they are actually jousting and, they are on the  
> correct side
> at that time.  Interesting pictures.
>
> Diane
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Ann Catelli
> Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 6:10 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Event query
>
>
>>> Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
>
>> A friend sent me this website because he knows I
>> "like this stuff."
>>
>> http://www.oook.cz/events/hradec-kralove06/
>>>>
>>>> Can anyone tell me what event I'm looking at?
>
>>>> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>
> I wonder why they are jousting on the wrong sides of
> the barrier.
>
> You're supposed to aim your spear at your oponent's
> shield, thereby ensuring he is aiming at yours, not
> your less protected side.
>
> I.e., pass to the right, with the lance crossing the
> horse's neck and couched against your shield.
>
> Ann in CT
>
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Lauren M. Walker
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What I can glean is that these are from the Cesare Vecellio book "Degli
habiti antichi, et moderni diversi parti del Mondo libri due.

The second picture is Russian (a man from Bjarmeland (northern Russia?))
The next two are of Lappland (the one after appears to be Lappland but could
be Norwegian)

The first I am not sure, I think Netherlands, could be Northern France.

I think the language is Norwegian.

De



-----Original Message-----
Dawn wrote:

> But it looks like 16th century Norse (?) drawings of clothing. Check out
> the pics near the end of women with pipes in their mouths and spinning
> in hand. At least, I think it's a pipe, it's a stick with fire coming
> out of it.

Let me try that again. It mangled the link.

http://www.nb.no/nbvev/eksternvev/html/italienske_tresnitt.html



Dawn



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From: "Eva Andersson" <eva.andersson@comhem.se>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 22:05:31 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:16th century costume pictures ?
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The text says that it's from Vecellio's costume book and shows (his
conception of) clothing in the Nordic areas.
Vecellio's is one of the famous costume books and the whole book can
probably be found online; it is, however, probably not very reliable
when it comes to clothing in the Nordic countries. The images are often
copies of earlier books, like Hans Weigel's "Trachtenbuch" and both
Weigel and Vecellio probably based their drawings of clothing from these
"exotic" places on a mixture of hearsay and invention.

/Eva


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http://www.nb.no/nbvev/eksternvev/html/italienske_tresnitt.html

It's the National Library of Norway. The manuscript in question is written
in Italian, while the site and possibly the translation of the MS is
written in Norwegian.  I can't get that particular branch of the library
site to come up in English, but I can get the main page and the MS searh
pages to come up in English. After that, I have no idea how to get to the
"smoking lady" from there.

I can do a screen capture and paste the picture into a word document and
then pull the words off the page and then feed them into babelfish for an
italian to English translation, but I don't know that it would work.

Patches

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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 16:36:20 -0400
From: "HELEN PINTO" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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The color plates are from Vecellio's costume book, but the site and text
are Norweigian.  The picture in question of the spinning woman has the
text attached in Italian and Latin, with a Norweigian translation on the 
side.
I have some Italian and Latin, almost no Norweigian, but here's a sense of
the text:

Northern Women- In the north, where it's night for two or three months,
in order to provide light, women of a middle station carry bundles of wood
in their belts to burn like candles.  They wear long dresses of heavy cloth
and carry a bag for the linen they are spinning, and carry a lit stick in 
their
mouths to light their way when they go spinning on the road.

I missed a few words, but it's definitely not a pipe.

                   -Helen/Aidan


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Event query
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 17:16:54 -0400
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Thank you everybody--this is so interesting!
If you go to the bottom of the page and click on the right-hand link,  
you come to a site that might be the photographer's. Among the  
various choices on that page is a set of photos, also gorgeous, of  
what might be more of the same festival or might be a RenFest (a man  
in a feathered tricorn and Bjarne-style coat looms large in some of  
the pix). The VELVET on the women is like fine wine....
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Oct 11, 2006, at 3:08 PM, Lauren Walker wrote:

> Fun with Google reveals that
>> Hradec Kralove is called City of Bohemia Queens.
>>
>> The city is among the oldest Bohemian towns - historical sources  
>> date it back to 1225. In the Middle Ages it was a dowry town of  
>> Czech Queens. In the same time was built Cathedral of the Holy  
>> Spirit.
>>
>> Hradec Kralove was transformed into an extensive military fort in  
>> the Rococo. After its demolition of the fortifications, the town  
>> received a new modernistic outlook. Many remarkable architects  
>> participated in the design, for example Jan Kotera and Josef Gocar.
>>
>> Hradec Kralove is the political, economic and cultural centre of  
>> the region today.
>
> "Kralovsky Eilsky" appears to be the name of the 14th-century part  
> of the city, and "slavnosti" is "celebration." So as a wild guess  
> I'm going to say it's the celebration of the old city.
> But it is just a Google-search with some logic applied. Your  
> mileage may vary.
> Lauren
> On Oct 11, 2006, at 10:45 AM, Diane Maynard wrote:
>
>> If you check closely, they are going to their post and saluting their
>> opponent when they are on the wrong side.  There are only one or two
>> pictures when they are actually jousting and, they are on the  
>> correct side
>> at that time.  Interesting pictures.
>>
>> Diane
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
>> bounces@indra.com] On
>> Behalf Of Ann Catelli
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 6:10 PM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Event query
>>
>>
>>>> Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
>>
>>> A friend sent me this website because he knows I
>>> "like this stuff."
>>>
>>> http://www.oook.cz/events/hradec-kralove06/
>>>>>
>>>>> Can anyone tell me what event I'm looking at?
>>
>>>>> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>>
>> I wonder why they are jousting on the wrong sides of
>> the barrier.
>>
>> You're supposed to aim your spear at your oponent's
>> shield, thereby ensuring he is aiming at yours, not
>> your less protected side.
>>
>> I.e., pass to the right, with the lance crossing the
>> horse's neck and couched against your shield.
>>
>> Ann in CT
>>
>> __________________________________________________
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>> http://mail.yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
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>> _______________________________________________
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>
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Those are from Vecellio's Costume Book. A reprint is generally available from Dover. He's better at the Italian stuff since he actually saw that and wasn't just getting second hand reports on it. It also has his idea of clothing from China and the Americas as well as most of Europe.
 
Karen
Seamstrix


-- "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com> wrote:
Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:

> Dawn wrote:
>
>> But it looks like 16th century Norse (?) drawings of clothing.   
>> Check out the pics near the end of women with pipes in their mouths  
>>  and spinning in hand. At least, I think it's a pipe, it's a stick   
>> with fire coming out of it.
>
> Let me try that again. It mangled the link.
>
> http://www.nb.no/nbvev/eksternvev/html/italienske_tresnitt.html
>

*NEAT*  Those are just too cool.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 14:30:47 -0400
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The site is in Norwegian, but the colored illustrations are in Italian.
I'm not sure about the woodcuts other than to notice that the
illustrations seem to copy them. Perhaps they were the original
Norwegian, and some industrious Italian copied them into a book?

My personal favorite is the loooong shoes! 

+Linda+

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 12:58 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?

First, I can't read a word of this site.

www.nb.no/.../html/italienske_tresnitt.html


But it looks like 16th century Norse (?) drawings of clothing. Check out

the pics near the end of women with pipes in their mouths and spinning 
in hand. At least, I think it's a pipe, it's a stick with fire coming 
out of it.



Dawn


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It was part 1 of 2. the conclusion will be this coming Sunday.

----- Original Message ----
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:12:01 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Casanova on PBS


> Drat.  As I was flipping though the tv guide, I saw this, and almost 
> decided to watch it, but found something else.  I assumed it would be... 
> something entirely different from what it apparently was.  Honestly and no 
> offense intended, a lot of the costume flicks that my fellow costumiers 
> like just plain bore the crap out of me.  Here's hoping that they or bbc 
> america show it again sometime!  (Oooh, look, Dr. Who!)

obligatory cheer...Yay Dr Who!

Now if I could just remember to watch it before the DVR wipes it 
automatically....

Dianne 

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I am wondering if this ?Norse piccie has anything to do with the elusive hankerchief hem that was talked about some weeks back.

http://www.nb.no/nbvev/eksternvev/assets/images/Blad-299-300.jpg

Interesting. Thanks for sharing Dawn.

Lyonet
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 16th century costume pictures ?
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>
> Let me try that again. It mangled the link.
>
> http://www.nb.no/nbvev/eksternvev/html/italienske_tresnitt.html
>

Doesn't Dover or someone publish a book of Vecellio's clothing drawings?

The web site does say where these come from:

Cesare Vecellio (ca. 1521-1601) ... Habiti antichi, et moderni de Diversi
Parti del Mondo libri ... later known as ?? ("denne gang under navnet")
Habiti antichi et moderni di tutto il Mondo

Which I guess would translate to "Clothing antique and modern from diverse
parts of the world" and "Ancient and modern clothing of the whole world."

I don't know if that's the famous Vecellio or not. But these are great
images!!! I have never seen any of them before. I like the lady in the fur
outfit with tales hanging off it.

Gail Finke


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 16th century costume pictures ?
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On Wed, 11 Oct 2006, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> The web site does say where these come from:
> 
> Cesare Vecellio (ca. 1521-1601) ... Habiti antichi, et moderni de Diversi
> Parti del Mondo libri ... later known as ?? ("denne gang under navnet")
> Habiti antichi et moderni di tutto il Mondo
> 
> Which I guess would translate to "Clothing antique and modern from diverse
> parts of the world" and "Ancient and modern clothing of the whole world."
> 
> I don't know if that's the famous Vecellio or not.

Yes, that's the famous Vecellio -- a landmark early costume book.

Thus the accuracy of these drawings is only what you might expect from a
16th century Venetian operating on secondary accounts for anything beyond
his personal knowledge.

--Robin


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Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>>Let me try that again. It mangled the link.
>>
>>http://www.nb.no/nbvev/eksternvev/html/italienske_tresnitt.html
>>
> 
> 
> Doesn't Dover or someone publish a book of Vecellio's clothing drawings?
> 


I think they do. I don't think it's in color, or has the descriptive 
passages, though. Does anyone own that book?

I still prefer seeing the 'originals', even if they are somewhat 
imaginative.



Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
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Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the 
70s who made off-the-rack dresses in that "olde fashioned" look - 
sort of Victorian, sort of "peasanty". She later made more 
sophisticated prom dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i 
think, 90s. But i'm drawing a blank on her name...

Can anyone help?

Thanks,
Anahita
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  Are you thinking of Jessica McClintock? Not sure if that is the correct spelling. I still have my Gunne Sax dress that I wore in junior high and my daughter wore it in high school. I honestly think that dress was part of what inspired me to learn more about real historic clothing.
 
 :)
 ~Kimberley
    
 -----Original Message-----
 From: lilinah@earthlink.net
 To: h-costume@indra.com
 Sent: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 8:35 PM
 Subject: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
 
  Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the 70s who made off-the-rack dresses in that "olde fashioned" look - sort of Victorian, sort of "peasanty". She later made more sophisticated prom dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i think, 90s. But i'm drawing a blank on her name... 
 
 Can anyone help? 
 
 Thanks, 
 Anahita 
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Folks,

I've already got 25 people signed up. If you'd like to play and you 
haven't sent me an email, please do so soon. The sign-up deadline is 
Friday.  If you have sent me mail, don't worry, I will confirm with 
everyone over the weekend.

Dawn



Welcome to the 2006 H-COST Holiday Gift Exchange.

**PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MESSAGE CAREFULLY BEFORE RESPONDING***


Please DO NOT reply to the List. Please address all replies to me at 
Dawn@reddawn.net. Be sure to add my email to your spam filter so that I 
can reply to you with your exchange information.

Please leave the H-COST header intact in your reply so your message does 
not end up in the spam-trap. If the phrase "H-COST" does not appear in 
your subject line I will not get your message.


_What we're doing. _

We will be exchanging small costume and sewing related gifts with each 
other. To participate you must sign up (below). There are rules, so that 
everybody knows what is expected of them, but I want this to be fun so I 
am keeping the rules simple. If you want to participate, please read 
this entire message.

The Sign-up Deadline is October 14. The Mailing Deadline is Dec.8th. 
We're starting earlier based on feedback from last year.  Sometime after 
Oct 14 I will begin sending people their assignments. That's a crazy 
week for me, so don't panic if I'm a little late. :)


_The Rules._

1. You are responsible for completing your end of the exchange on time. 
Please be sure you can follow through on your committment.

2. Gifts should be sewing or costume related. Gifts may be hand-made for 
the recipient, or purchased, or may be items you already have. Gifts 
should be clean and in good condition and suitable for giving. You will 
be given guidelines to help you choose a gift for your recipient.

3. Gifts should be in the $10-$15 US range, and no more than that. (8-12 
euros). It's ok if you can get something on sale or make something from 
supplies you already have. Second-hand books in good condition are ok. 
We all know how many desireable but out-of-print titles are out there.

4. Please wrap your gift item. Last year many participants said they 
would like the gift to be a surprise, and will wait to open it. You do 
not have to use seasonal holiday paper, plain tissue or pretty fabric is 
just fine.

5. Plan to mail your gift early. Remember that it will cost you postage 
on top of what you spent on the gift. Small and lightweight objects are 
generally cheaper to mail. If you are mailing overseas you may have to 
fill out a Customs Declaration.

6. After the sign-up period I will create a list of all participants so 
that I can stay in touch with you and send reminders. Email should be 
addressed to me, or to this list and not to H-Cost.

7. Each person who joins will be randomly matched up with one person 
they will send a gift to. I will try not to match you with the same 
person as last year. Someone else will send a gift to you. For example, 
Ann will send to Bob. Bob will send to Clara. Clara will send to Ann. 
This way each person will meet two H-Costumers by giving and receiving. 
You will know who you are sending to, but not who is sending to you.


_Join Now!_

1. To join you must send me your name and mailing address. Please reply 
to me at dawn@reddawn.net and NOT to the H-Cost list. The sign-up period 
ends Oct 14.

2. Introduce yourself. Tell me a little bit about you, your family, your 
pets, what you do -- as much as you feel comfortable sharing. It's been 
suggested that you include your dress size.

3. Tell me some of your Favorite Things. What do you sew? What time 
period or place interests you? Is there a favorite technique or process 
that you enjoy? (weaving, dyeing, embroidery, etc.) Do you have a 
favorite color or theme?

4. If you live outside the US and know your Duty limit, please include 
it. If you are within the US and do not wish to mail to another country, 
please let me know.




I think that about covers it. If you have questions or concerns, please ask.



Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] burn test
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I'm trying to figure out if this fabric I have is really silk. It 
doesn't *feel* like silk, so I burned a piece.

It shrinks from the flame, the fibers get black tips. Then it burns 
slowly for a couple seconds then *whoosh* it goes. The flame goes out 
once the source is removed. There's a black, firm ash. Not powdery, but 
not a bead either. Kinda crunchy. Smells like smoke.

Any ideas what I got?



Dawn


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] burn test
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On Wed, 11 Oct 2006, Dawn wrote:

> I'm trying to figure out if this fabric I have is really silk. It 
> doesn't *feel* like silk, so I burned a piece.

Pop a two-inch swatch into bleach for a few hours. Whatever dissolves is
either wool or silk. What doesn't, is something else. You can then
determine if you've got silk, a blend, etc. and narrow down from there.
(E.g. if only the warp threads dissolve, take a bunch of weft threads and
burn just those for a clearer test.)

--Robin

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Hi Dawn,
   My name is Tania Pembroke. I would love to participate in the gift exchange. I live in Coral Springs, Florida and have a husband named Jerry and three children of the furry variety. I am a Jazzercise Instructor by trade. I am interested in all periods, but so far have only worked with the Elizabethan period due to that being the only reenactment opportunities in this area. My mailing address is as follows.
Tania Pembroke
9811 Westview Dr. #914
Coral Springs, Florida 33076
 
Thanks for putting this opportunity together.
                     Tania
Tania M. Pembroke
Certified Jazzercise Class Owner/Instructor
954-547-2645
taniampembroke@aol.com 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dawn@reddawn.net
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 10:07 PM
Subject: [h-cost] reminder -- 2006 H-COST Holiday Gift Exchange


Folks, 
 
I've already got 25 people signed up. If you'd like to play and you haven't sent me an email, please do so soon. The sign-up deadline is Friday. If you have sent me mail, don't worry, I will confirm with everyone over the weekend. 
 
Dawn 
 
 
Welcome to the 2006 H-COST Holiday Gift Exchange. 
 
**PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MESSAGE CAREFULLY BEFORE RESPONDING*** 
 
Please DO NOT reply to the List. Please address all replies to me at Dawn@reddawn.net. Be sure to add my email to your spam filter so that I can reply to you with your exchange information. 
 
Please leave the H-COST header intact in your reply so your message does not end up in the spam-trap. If the phrase "H-COST" does not appear in your subject line I will not get your message. 
 
_What we're doing. _ 
 
We will be exchanging small costume and sewing related gifts with each other. To participate you must sign up (below). There are rules, so that everybody knows what is expected of them, but I want this to be fun so I am keeping the rules simple. If you want to participate, please read this entire message. 
 
The Sign-up Deadline is October 14. The Mailing Deadline is Dec.8th. We're starting earlier based on feedback from last year. Sometime after Oct 14 I will begin sending people their assignments. That's a crazy week for me, so don't panic if I'm a little late. :) 
 
_The Rules._ 
 
1. You are responsible for completing your end of the exchange on time. Please be sure you can follow through on your committment. 
 
2. Gifts should be sewing or costume related. Gifts may be hand-made for the recipient, or purchased, or may be items you already have. Gifts should be clean and in good condition and suitable for giving. You will be given guidelines to help you choose a gift for your recipient. 
 
3. Gifts should be in the $10-$15 US range, and no more than that. (8-12 euros). It's ok if you can get something on sale or make something from supplies you already have. Second-hand books in good condition are ok. We all know how many desireable but out-of-print titles are out there. 
 
4. Please wrap your gift item. Last year many participants said they would like the gift to be a surprise, and will wait to open it. You do not have to use seasonal holiday paper, plain tissue or pretty fabric is just fine. 
 
5. Plan to mail your gift early. Remember that it will cost you postage on top of what you spent on the gift. Small and lightweight objects are generally cheaper to mail. If you are mailing overseas you may have to fill out a Customs Declaration. 
 
6. After the sign-up period I will create a list of all participants so that I can stay in touch with you and send reminders. Email should be addressed to me, or to this list and not to H-Cost. 
 
7. Each person who joins will be randomly matched up with one person they will send a gift to. I will try not to match you with the same person as last year. Someone else will send a gift to you. For example, Ann will send to Bob. Bob will send to Clara. Clara will send to Ann. This way each person will meet two H-Costumers by giving and receiving. You will know who you are sending to, but not who is sending to you. 
 
_Join Now!_ 
 
1. To join you must send me your name and mailing address. Please reply to me at dawn@reddawn.net and NOT to the H-Cost list. The sign-up period ends Oct 14. 
 
2. Introduce yourself. Tell me a little bit about you, your family, your pets, what you do -- as much as you feel comfortable sharing. It's been suggested that you include your dress size. 
 
3. Tell me some of your Favorite Things. What do you sew? What time period or place interests you? Is there a favorite technique or process that you enjoy? (weaving, dyeing, embroidery, etc.) Do you have a favorite color or theme? 
 
4. If you live outside the US and know your Duty limit, please include it. If you are within the US and do not wish to mail to another country, please let me know. 
 
 
I think that about covers it. If you have questions or concerns, please ask. 
 
 
Dawn 
 
 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] burn test
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 22:15:17 -0500
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Ummm...I don't think chewing it is part of the test. :)

-----Original Message-----
Kinda crunchy. 
Dawn


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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 20:01:21 -0700
From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
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gunny sax dresses fit that description and I made (and wore one - hey, 
it was the 80s - I deny any responsibility for my wardrobe) from a 
commercial pattern, probably Simplicity

liz young

lilinah@earthlink.net wrote:
> Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the 70s 
> who made off-the-rack dresses in that "olde fashioned" look - sort of 
> Victorian, sort of "peasanty". She later made more sophisticated prom 
> dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i think, 90s. But i'm drawing 
> a blank on her name...
> 
> Can anyone help?
> 
> Thanks,
> Anahita
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Wed, 11 Oct 2006, Dawn wrote:
> 
> 
>>I'm trying to figure out if this fabric I have is really silk. It 
>>doesn't *feel* like silk, so I burned a piece.
> 
> 
> Pop a two-inch swatch into bleach for a few hours. Whatever dissolves is
> either wool or silk. What doesn't, is something else. 


Thanks. It only took about 45 minutes for the ground fabric to dissolve, 
I think it is silk organza. The design woven into it seems to be rayon, 
though.



Dawn


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On Wed, 11 Oct 2006, Elizabeth Young wrote:

> gunny sax dresses fit that description and I made (and wore one - hey, 
> it was the 80s - I deny any responsibility for my wardrobe) from a 
> commercial pattern, probably Simplicity

In one of my boxes I'm sure I still have the pattern *and* the calico
fabric for one I never bothered to sew up. It would have been around 1982.

--Robin

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 00:15:28 -0400
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Here is a webpage with Jessica's history,
http://www.jessicamcclintock.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/PageView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&pageid=20&pageno=3 
(Copy the entire URL)

Here is a gunne sax dress from the 1970s: 
http://www.curbside-couture.com/images/t-z/vds-60.JPG
Here is a whole bunch of dresses on eBay: 
http://clothing.search.ebay.com/gunne-sax_Dresses_W0QQfclZ3QQfsooZ2QQfsopZ2QQsacatZ48869

I have a Jessica McClintock dress from her bridal collection.  It could be a 
mother-of-the bride dress or bridesmaid.  I think it is from the early 
1990s.  It looks very dainty sheer batiste with lace.  It has a drop waist.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <chindora@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion


>  Are you thinking of Jessica McClintock? Not sure if that is the correct 
> spelling. I still have my Gunne Sax dress that I wore in junior high and 
> my daughter wore it in high school. I honestly think that dress was part 
> of what inspired me to learn more about real historic clothing.
>
> :)
> ~Kimberley
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: lilinah@earthlink.net
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 8:35 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
>
>  Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the 70s 
> who made off-the-rack dresses in that "olde fashioned" look - sort of 
> Victorian, sort of "peasanty". She later made more sophisticated prom 
> dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i think, 90s. But i'm drawing a 
> blank on her name...
>
> Can anyone help?
>
> Thanks,
> Anahita
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 22:16:03 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Quoting Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>:
>
>> Dawn wrote:
>>
>>> But it looks like 16th century Norse (?) drawings of clothing.   
>>> Check out the pics near the end of women with pipes in their  
>>> mouths  and spinning in hand. At least, I think it's a pipe, it's  
>>> a stick  with fire coming out of it.
>>
>> Let me try that again. It mangled the link.
>>
>> http://www.nb.no/nbvev/eksternvev/html/italienske_tresnitt.html
>>


It isn't a pipe -- it's a light source, probably something like a  
rush light, but held in the mouth rather than in a fixed holder.  The  
page title is something like "16th c. Italian prints of Norsemen" --  
the colored prints are all from Vecellio, apparently, and towards the  
bottom of the page there are some comparative examples from a book by  
Olaus Magnus, suggesting that it may have been Vecellio's source for  
some of the images.

Heather
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] burn test
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> (E.g. if only the warp threads dissolve, take a bunch of weft threads and
> burn just those for a clearer test.)

...but please don't burn the bleach-soaked weft threads; get fresh weft 
threads from a new sample instead.

-E House
(This post brought to you by Ridiculous Small Print, Ltd.) 

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Subject: [h-cost] Reminder: Halloween Contest
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Just a reminder that The Costume Gallery's Halloween Contest ends Sat. morning, Oct. 14, at 12:01 AM, East Coast U.S. time.  http://www.costumegallery.com/HalloweenContest/

The contest consists of a series of Challenges around The Gallery's websites.  At this moment, there are 8 sets of challenges on the contest.  They are fun and educational.  Each contestant answers challenge questions and is awarded points.   The top three people who earn the most points will win a costume of their choice (up to $170 each)  or a 29-piece Ghoulish Party Pack (value $234) from www.spirithalloween.com . The prizes are being shipped next week.  

Two more challenges will be added, one Thursday and another Friday.  No challenge question answers will be accepted after the time mentioned in the first paragraph. The winners will be announced Sunday evening, Oct. 15 on the Top Ten Contestants webpage.  

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 09:25:43 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: !6th century costume pictures
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I can understand a little Norwegian. It says that Vecellio was
influenced by Olaus Magnus' "Historia de gentibus septentrionalibus"
(History of the Northern peoples), published in Rome, 1555, and then
goes on to compare his woodcuts and text with Vecellio's. The burning
sticks are torches to enable people to work in the long winter nights,
not smoking materials.
A Google search on Olaus Magnus reveals that he was a Swede who became
a high-ranking Catholic cleric in Rome, and was a noted geographer, so
he did know whereof he spoke.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
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Jessica McClintock?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of lilinah@earthlink.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 5:35 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion


Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the 
70s who made off-the-rack dresses in that "olde fashioned" look - 
sort of Victorian, sort of "peasanty". She later made more 
sophisticated prom dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i 
think, 90s. But i'm drawing a blank on her name...

Can anyone help?

Thanks,
Anahita
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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?
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I can't be completely sure (because I can't read it), but I believe the coloured drawings are in fact later (1664?) re-drawings taken from Vecellio. I believe the original Vecellio images were woodcuts.
 
Bella


----- Original Message ----
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, 12 October, 2006 2:46:03 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?


It isn't a pipe -- it's a light source, probably something like a  
rush light, but held in the mouth rather than in a fixed holder.  The  
page title is something like "16th c. Italian prints of Norsemen" --  
the colored prints are all from Vecellio, apparently, and towards the  
bottom of the page there are some comparative examples from a book by  
Olaus Magnus, suggesting that it may have been Vecellio's source for  
some of the images.

Heather


		
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
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I friend gave me all her old patterns and there're some of this style in the
box. Cool.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Young
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 8:01 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion


gunny sax dresses fit that description and I made (and wore one - hey, 
it was the 80s - I deny any responsibility for my wardrobe) from a 
commercial pattern, probably Simplicity

liz young

lilinah@earthlink.net wrote:
> Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the 70s 
> who made off-the-rack dresses in that "olde fashioned" look - sort of 
> Victorian, sort of "peasanty". She later made more sophisticated prom 
> dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i think, 90s. But i'm drawing 
> a blank on her name...
> 
> Can anyone help?
> 
> Thanks,
> Anahita
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?
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On Wed, 11 Oct 2006, Bella wrote:
> I can't be completely sure (because I can't read it), but I believe
> the coloured drawings are in fact later (1664?) re-drawings taken from
> Vecellio. I believe the original Vecellio images were woodcuts.

The text says that they are hand-coloured woodcuts from the end of the
16th century, originally part of a large work by Vecillio (tDegli
habiti antichi, et moderni di diversi parti del Modo libri due). It says
that there were three editions of the work, all printed in Venice, and
dating to 1590, 1598 and 1664. They don't know whether these particular
images are from the 1590 or the 1598 edition, but aparently it's one of
those.

Ingrid

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Oct 12 13:36:17 2006
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 13:29:29 -0400
Organization: Five Rivers
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Subject: [h-cost] Final pattern clearance
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Status: RO

            My apologies for continuing to post about our pattern clearance.
For those of you not interested, hit DELETE now.

 

            I have 302 patterns left in stock, ranging from 17th to 20th
centuries. I'd be willing to let the whole thing go all at once to someone
for 50% discount, which means $3699.39CDN (approx. $3208.49US at today's
rate of 1.1530). Shipping would be extra, exact amount it costs me. Ontario
residents would incur 6%GST and 8%PST. All other Canadian residents 6%GST. I
will accept Visa, MasterCard, PayPal, or if you're a Canadian resident an
email transfer of funds. I will be pleased to provide an inventory list to
anyone who is seriously interested.

 

            At this price, these patterns are well below wholesale cost.

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

 

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Subject: [h-cost] National Geographic on shoes
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The September 2006 issue has an annoying little article on shoes and 
sex, but it includes some pictures of interest. There is a man's shoe 
and a child's shoe from the 17th century, and a beaded moccasin from the 
late 1800's.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
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Status: RO

I was indeed trying to remember Jessica McClintock and her Gunne Sax 
line of clothing. (i checked the spelling for both the designer and 
the company - amazing what a difference capitalizing in the proper 
places can make on Google)

Thanks to all who answered my question.

Memory Restored,

Anahita
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The Jessica McClintock line was the high status symbol when I was in  
high school.  (Class of '75) They were fairly expensive, ranging from  
$70 -150 when most junior styles were half that.  There were both  
casual day styles and evening/prom/bridal versions, but only the  
really rich girls wore them for school.    I only had one,  because  
the largest they came was size 15, and those were really hard to  
find.  Mine was a street length navy calico with pale blue satin  
ribbon trim, that was uncomfortably tight, but I was thrilled to fit  
into it.

In the 80's I used to go to the JM outlet store in San Francisco to  
buy fabric and lace--great deals!  Are they still there?

Margo

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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 671
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on 10/12/06 2:02 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> h-costume-request@mail.indra.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> h-costume-owner@mail.indra.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
> 1. Re: !6th century costume pictures (Kate M Bunting)
> 2. RE: 1970s American Fashion (Sharon at Collierfam.com)
> 3. RE: 1970s American Fashion (Sharon at Collierfam.com)
> 4. Re: 16th century costume pictures ? (Ingrid G. Storr?)
> 5. Final pattern clearance (Five Rivers Chapmanry)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 09:25:43 +0100
> From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: !6th century costume pictures
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <452E0A1702000014000C2977@Cluster1_gwise3_server.derby.ac.uk>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> I can understand a little Norwegian. It says that Vecellio was
> influenced by Olaus Magnus' "Historia de gentibus septentrionalibus"
> (History of the Northern peoples), published in Rome, 1555, and then
> goes on to compare his woodcuts and text with Vecellio's. The burning
> sticks are torches to enable people to work in the long winter nights,
> not smoking materials.
> A Google search on Olaus Magnus reveals that he was a Swede who became
> a high-ranking Catholic cleric in Rome, and was a noted geographer, so
> he did know whereof he spoke.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 02:40:47 -0700
> From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <001201c6ede2$7f051870$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Jessica McClintock?
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of lilinah@earthlink.net
> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 5:35 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
> 
> 
> Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the
> 70s who made off-the-rack dresses in that "olde fashioned" look -
> sort of Victorian, sort of "peasanty". She later made more
> sophisticated prom dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i
> think, 90s. But i'm drawing a blank on her name...
> 
> Can anyone help?
> 
> Thanks,
> Anahita
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 02:42:35 -0700
> From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <001301c6ede2$bf5490e0$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I friend gave me all her old patterns and there're some of this style in the
> box. Cool.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Elizabeth Young
> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 8:01 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1970s American Fashion
> 
> 
> gunny sax dresses fit that description and I made (and wore one - hey,
> it was the 80s - I deny any responsibility for my wardrobe) from a
> commercial pattern, probably Simplicity
> 
> liz young
> 
> lilinah@earthlink.net wrote:
>> Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the 70s
>> who made off-the-rack dresses in that "olde fashioned" look - sort of
>> Victorian, sort of "peasanty". She later made more sophisticated prom
>> dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i think, 90s. But i'm drawing
>> a blank on her name...
>> 
>> Can anyone help?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Anahita
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 16:03:51 +0200 (CEST)
> From: Ingrid G. Storr? <ingridgs@techarea.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <Pine.LNX.4.58.0610121558310.25356@kalymnos.domenebutikken.no>
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> On Wed, 11 Oct 2006, Bella wrote:
>> I can't be completely sure (because I can't read it), but I believe
>> the coloured drawings are in fact later (1664?) re-drawings taken from
>> Vecellio. I believe the original Vecellio images were woodcuts.
> 
> The text says that they are hand-coloured woodcuts from the end of the
> 16th century, originally part of a large work by Vecillio (tDegli
> habiti antichi, et moderni di diversi parti del Modo libri due). It says
> that there were three editions of the work, all printed in Venice, and
> dating to 1590, 1598 and 1664. They don't know whether these particular
> images are from the 1590 or the 1598 edition, but aparently it's one of
> those.
> 
> Ingrid

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: clothing designer
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> Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the
> 70s who made off-the-rack dresses in that "olde fashioned" look -
> sort of Victorian, sort of "peasanty". She later made more
> sophisticated prom dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i
> think, 90s. But i'm drawing a blank on her name...
> 

Jessica McClintock?

Still has a line available in stores. Same look, but satiny instead of
cottony.

Gail Finke

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Jessica McClintock/Gunne Sax

ex:
http://www.curbside-couture.com/gunne_sax.htm
http://www.tias.com/6564/InventoryPage/1375772/1.html
http://www.vintage70sclothing.com/Dresses/gunne1.htm

Used to own a burgundy calico prairie formal, $50 on sale.
De

-----Original Message-----
> Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the
> 70s who made off-the-rack dresses in that "olde fashioned" look -
> sort of Victorian, sort of "peasanty". She later made more
> sophisticated prom dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i
> think, 90s. But i'm drawing a blank on her name...
> 


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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: clothing designer
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2006 08:37:28 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

My wedding dress was one of these.  Muslin with natural lace.  Ankle 
length.  Nothing fancy.  We are still married after 31 years.  (No- the 
dress no longer fits!)

My not yet Sister-in-Law was my Maid of honor.  She had a muslin with 
velvet front dress of a similar style.  I think SHE still fits in her 
dress, though!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Oct 13, 2006, at 12:21 AM, otsisto wrote:

> Jessica McClintock/Gunne Sax
>
> ex:
> http://www.curbside-couture.com/gunne_sax.htm
> http://www.tias.com/6564/InventoryPage/1375772/1.html
> http://www.vintage70sclothing.com/Dresses/gunne1.htm
>
> Used to own a burgundy calico prairie formal, $50 on sale.
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> Aarrgh. There was a female clothing designer in San Francisco in the
>> 70s who made off-the-rack dresses in that "olde fashioned" look -
>> sort of Victorian, sort of "peasanty". She later made more
>> sophisticated prom dresses and wedding dresses inthe 80s and, i
>> think, 90s. But i'm drawing a blank on her name...
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] parasol frame
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I  have an idea for making a parasol using a crochet pattern as the 
base. However, I've not been able to find a source for just the frames 
of parasols. Any suggestions?
- Cecilia, in sunny California (usually) with a new need to avoid 
overexposure to the sun
pyrfectpup@earthlink.net
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] parasol frame
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Cecelia,

I buy old parasols off ebay in poor condition.

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
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Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Cecelia,
>
> I buy old parasols off ebay in poor condition. 

thanks - any tips on what to look for before buying and / or refinishing?
- also will old umbrella frames work? if so, again how to fix them - 
since most umbrellas have earned the "not usable" category because the 
framing doesn't work.
- Cecilia

>
>
> Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Subject: [h-cost] OT - +size swimwear
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Status: RO

            I know I'm not the only Rubenesque woman here, so I'm wondering,
where do you ladies purchase your plus-size swimwear? I swim 3x/week, and my
two swimsuits are in very serious need of replacement. Of course it's
October. There's no swimwear to be found, and the major stores for plus
sizes (for me Pennington's in Ontario, Canada) don't bring in their
cruise-wear until late November, and I'm living in fear that I may be caught
flashing before then.

 

            I've checked some places online, but I'm loathe to commit the
very serious dollars before knowing anything about these places.

 

            Anyone have an information?

 

            I'm looking, btw, for a size 26 or 28 swimdress.

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - +size swimwear
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Here's a couple of links.  I've bought from Junonia before and their quality 
is good.

http://www.junonia.com/subDepartment-5-Swimwear.htm

http://www.eddiebauer.com/eb/cat_default_rollover.asp?nv=3|21473|1159|1252&tid=&c=&referringurl=http%3A//www.eddiebauer.com/eb/cat_default_rollover.asp%3Fnv%3D3%7C21473%7C1159%26tid%3D%26c%3D

Melusine 

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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Terminology of pleats
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Hi all,

Are cartridge pleats and organ pleats the same thing? That's what Janet 
Arnold says in PoF, and I'm inclined to believe her. Actually, I'm looking 
for the French term: I found "plis canon(s)" and "plis en tuyaux d'orgue" 
(though I'm wondering if that isn't a direct translation from English). I 
still haven't found a good source for this, they're absent from every 
specialized lexicon I've looked at so far. Seems my sources are too recent, 
I can only find box pleats, knife pleats and the likes! No "open" pleats.

Thanks for any help!

Audrey
 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] parasol frame
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Have you tried Amazon Drygoods? Also, www.lacis.com might have them.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of pyrfectpup
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 11:23 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] parasol frame


I  have an idea for making a parasol using a crochet pattern as the 
base. However, I've not been able to find a source for just the frames 
of parasols. Any suggestions?
- Cecilia, in sunny California (usually) with a new need to avoid 
overexposure to the sun
pyrfectpup@earthlink.net
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Lorina,

You might want to find some swimwear store in Florida.  It is snowbird 
season, so they might have a good selection.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: "Kathleen Hanrahan" <kathleen.hanrahan@homenode.us>
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] OT - +size swimwear
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Lorina,

I usually vote for Lands' End.  I haven't swum laps in any of their suits, though.

They have swimdresses.  I like their tankinis.  They go up to 26W, so it may or may not work for you.

Your purchase is guaranteed - "If youre not satisfied with any item, simply return it to us at any time for an exchange or refund of its purchase price."

http://www.landsend.com/cd/index/fp/0,,4843,00.html?sid=8602118600237137610

Kathleen
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From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - +size swimwear
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2006 17:33:27 -0700
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I haven't bought swimwear from them, but Land's end is usually very  
good quality.  I believe they have some closeout priced swimwear  
right now.

Margo


On Oct 13, 2006, at 3:45 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Lorina,
>
> You might want to find some swimwear store in Florida.  It is  
> snowbird season, so they might have a good selection.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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> Are cartridge pleats and organ pleats the same thing? That's what Janet
> Arnold says in PoF, and I'm inclined to believe her.

Can o' worms!

Cartridge pleating seems to have become synonymous with overhanding. Yet you
can overhand almost any kind of pleat to reduce bulk at the waist. I usually
overhand pleats that overlap so I don't wind up with 8 layers of fabric in
my waist! These most certainly are not cartridge pleats. It should refer
only to those pleats padded and overhanded so as to look like a row of
cartridges.
Otherwise it could mean nearly any kind of pleat under the sun and be of no
help whatsoever when used to describe a garment. It also leads to cross
purposes when giving instructions for how to assemble a garment.

The term is also a very recent one, it's seen in the 1920s and not much
earlier. I've also been lead to believe that gauging was the 19thC term but
I can only find that to refer to the method of drawing of the gathers to be
overhanded.

> I can only find box pleats, knife pleats and the likes! No "open" pleats.

That's all I can find. Well actually pleats and reverse pleats usually. And
that is about as specific as it gets;) I have a feeling it was mostly a case
of "make this fit the neatest way how."

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - +size swimwear
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On Fri, 13 Oct 2006, Margo Anderson wrote:

> I haven't bought swimwear from them, but Land's end is usually very
> good quality.  I believe they have some closeout priced swimwear right
> now.

I haven't bought the plus sizes, but I LOVE their swimwear -- sanely
engineered designs, good quality, and attractive.

--Robin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Terminology of pleats
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At 23:21 13/10/2006, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Are cartridge pleats and organ pleats the same thing? That's what 
>Janet Arnold says in PoF, and I'm inclined to believe her. Actually, 
>I'm looking for the French term: I found "plis canon(s)" and "plis 
>en tuyaux d'orgue" (though I'm wondering if that isn't a direct 
>translation from English). I still haven't found a good source for 
>this, they're absent from every specialized lexicon I've looked at 
>so far. Seems my sources are too recent, I can only find box pleats, 
>knife pleats and the likes! No "open" pleats.
>
>Thanks for any help!
>
>Audrey


I think they are different. Cartridge pleats are "tubes" = roughly 
the same thickness throughout, similar to a cartridge holder on a 
man's belt. Organ pleats, in my opinion, taper towards the top in the 
same way as an organ pipe does. At least that is how I have always 
defined them in my mind.

Suzi

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	<004501c6ef2c$ba1d26f0$0301010a@michaela>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Terminology of pleats
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Yikes, what is overhanding? I am not familiar with that term, can you explain it a little more?  I am trying to imagine cartridge pleating which are overlapped to reduce bulk...

Organ pipes and cartridge pleats are definitely not the same thing.  I don't have access to the Oxford online dictionary anymore, but my memory is that Michaela is correct...it shows up in the 19th century.  Furthermore, I've not been able to find any specific word for it in German either.  

>Organ pleats, in my opinion, taper towards the top in the same way as an organ pipe does.<

As often as I have contemplated these things, and made them up, it was only when I looked at those military bases in August that the picture became clear as to why they were called this.  When people spoke of them tapering, I always was focused on the "fact" that they were wider at the hem then where they were attached.  I think I might have said this in my write up, but organ pipes are often sliced on the diagonal at the top (which is what I think Suzi is referring to.).  When they are viewed from the un-sliced side, there is a point at the top which tapers down in an oval shape.  This is very much what they look like.  

There are some who say they aren't any different then rolled pleats.  While rolled pleats look a lot like the organ pipe pleats along their length, they are blunted off in the attachment area.  They look squared off or rounded (I am not talking about contemporary portraits here, I am talking about garments I've made up.)  

Those pictures where the organ pipe pleats have alternating colors are an indication that they are made in sectioned tapers.  Otherwise they are cut on a circle - you'd have to have a mighty big piece of fabric to do rolled pleats on a circle.   I'd say the same for cartridge pleats.  Generally the latter two lend themselves towards long lengths of straight fabric.

I wonder if we could date the term to when organ pipes were made like this.  BTW, anyone know why an organ is called an organ??  I know it is a musical instrument with air supplied by a bellows of sorts, but why wasn't a flute called an organ...  Anyone know why the ends are tapered?  I figure it has to do with the sound mechanics...but aren't there all sorts of pipe instruments where the outlet is flat?

Sg

Of course I keep threatening to write a paper on them, but haven't gotten around to it for four years.  I know it ain't happening in the next 6 months either.



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	Oooo, you're all peaches. :-) Thanks so much for the information!

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 3:38 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] burn test


> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>> (E.g. if only the warp threads dissolve, take a bunch of weft threads and
>> burn just those for a clearer test.)
>
> ...but please don't burn the bleach-soaked weft threads; get fresh weft 
> threads from a new sample instead.>>


Spoilsport.

;-)

Dianne 

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT - +size swimwear
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2006 19:41:26 -0700
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Lands' End. They have a good selection, good fit and most importantly, they
have a great return policy. You can return anything for any reason, even
swimwear that you've tried in the water.(I've done it)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Five Rivers Chapmanry
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 2:26 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] OT - +size swimwear


            I know I'm not the only Rubenesque woman here, so I'm wondering,
where do you ladies purchase your plus-size swimwear? I swim 3x/week, and my
two swimsuits are in very serious need of replacement. Of course it's
October. There's no swimwear to be found, and the major stores for plus
sizes (for me Pennington's in Ontario, Canada) don't bring in their
cruise-wear until late November, and I'm living in fear that I may be caught
flashing before then.

 

            I've checked some places online, but I'm loathe to commit the
very serious dollars before knowing anything about these places.

 

            Anyone have an information?

 

            I'm looking, btw, for a size 26 or 28 swimdress.

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

 

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Dear Rhonda,

	Thanks for those additional two. I did go to Lane Bryant, but found
that online shopping is temporarily unable to Canadian customers. And
Roamans don't ship outside the US, which simply boggles the mind why anyone
would bother putting an internet storefront up if they aren't going to ship
internationally. Very frustrating too, because I loved two of the swimsuits
on Roamans! And great prices!

	Argh.

	Back to the drawing board.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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  Very nice!!!
 
 :)
 ~Kimberley
    
 -----Original Message-----
 From: dawn@reddawn.net
 To: h-costume@indra.com
 Sent: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 8:11 PM
 Subject: [h-cost] my new dress
 
  All, 
 
 I finished this last night so I could wear it in the rain today to the last day of renfest. 
 
 I took inspiration from several Italian dresses from 1540-65, particularly one portrait of Titian's daughter Lavinia. The full writeup is in my dress diary on my website: 
 
 www.reddawn.net/costume/irondress.htm 
 
 Or you can take the shortcut to the photos alone: 
 
 www.reddawn.net/costume/iron/Dscn1997.jpg 
 www.reddawn.net/costume/iron/Dscn2009.jpg 
 www.reddawn.net/costume/iron/Dscn2014.jpg 
 
 
 Dawn 
 
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All,

I finished this last night so I could wear it in the rain today to the 
last day of renfest.

I took inspiration from several Italian dresses from 1540-65, 
particularly one portrait of Titian's daughter Lavinia. The full writeup 
is in my dress diary on my website:

www.reddawn.net/costume/irondress.htm

Or you can take the shortcut to the photos alone:

www.reddawn.net/costume/iron/Dscn1997.jpg
www.reddawn.net/costume/iron/Dscn2009.jpg
www.reddawn.net/costume/iron/Dscn2014.jpg



Dawn

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Bella wrote:

> Beautiful dress Dawn! I just love the colour and pattern of the fabric. Truly worthy of being Showcased, if you don't mind me saying so. :-)
> 

Thanks! I probably will send you something, later this month. Your site 
was very helpful while researching the design. :)

Meanwhile, I have another dress for a different event next weekend, and 
I haven't even started working on it...



Dawn



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To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

Would anybody have a good source for an image of
somebody called Dr Orpheus from some show called the
Venture Bros.?

My son wants to have the cloak for this year's costume
and I'm having a hard time finding a good shot of both
front and back.  Supposedly there is some sort of
design on the back.

Thanks,

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my new dress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Beautiful dress Dawn! I just love the colour and pattern of the fabric. Truly worthy of being Showcased, if you don't mind me saying so. :-)

http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/yourgarb/ItalianShowcaseBooking.doc
http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/yourgarb/ItalianShowcaseBooking.txt

...just in case you're interested. :-)
 
Anabella Wake (aka Donna Bella Lucia da Verona)
The Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/

-----Original Message-----
From: dawn@reddawn.net
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 8:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] my new dress

  All, 

I finished this last night so I could wear it in the rain today to the last day of renfest. 

I took inspiration from several Italian dresses from 1540-65, particularly one portrait of Titian's daughter Lavinia. The full writeup is in my dress diary on my website: 

www.reddawn.net/costume/irondress.htm 

Or you can take the shortcut to the photos alone: 

Dawn


	

	
		
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I thought sure there would be several comments this morning!  Are you all 
too shocked beyond comment?

I think it was pretty clear in part 2 that the costumes (esp. women's) were 
fantasy intrepretations, barely based on anything historical.  I have to 
admit that I loved the punk hair and the "venetian blind" hoops in the scene 
from the party at Naples. The story line was just a bit too twisted, but I 
suppose it all fit together.

Even my daughter finally said - "What is with those costumes?! They didn't 
really wear their make-up like that, did they?"

Denise B

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Very nice!  Are your pictures taken at Sterling by any chance?
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dawn<mailto:dawn@reddawn.net> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 5:11 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] my new dress

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Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> Very nice!  Are your pictures taken at Sterling by any chance?

Kansas City Ren Fest. They have a nice little wooded area with a 'creek' .


Dawn


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Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 10:40:46 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cassanova pt 2
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I watched this program with my daughter, who has worn costumes all her
15 years. We decided in the first half hour that the hair and costumes
were wrong, the history might be off and that we would watch it the
same way we watched The Knight's Tale with "Jeff" Chaucer. In other
words, we suspended belief and went for the fun that was written into
the movie. We didn't fret about the costumes at all - until someone in
one of the court scenes was wearing a brocade vest-type piece that
matched exactly the brocade on the walls of the room. The we laughed.

I might add that my daughter spent the last week whispering to me:
Only 5 more days until Cassanova, only 4 more days until Cassanova...
We talked about the costumes but more about the fun colors and the
variations on the historical. She even brought out one of my costume
survey books to compare what we saw to the reality in portraits. I
believe she learned more about this period - heck, any period - than
any other movie or program we've ever watched. This was the best
costume conversation I've ever had with her! For me this program was a
resounding success.

Anyway, anything with Peter O'Toole is worth watching. Even my
daughter who hasn't seen many of his later movies said, "Wow, what
bones!"

Raising geniuses in Northern California,
LynnD


On 10/16/06, Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net> wrote:
> I thought sure there would be several comments this morning!  Are you all
> too shocked beyond comment?
>
> I think it was pretty clear in part 2 that the costumes (esp. women's) were
> fantasy intrepretations, barely based on anything historical.  I have to
> admit that I loved the punk hair and the "venetian blind" hoops in the scene
> from the party at Naples. The story line was just a bit too twisted, but I
> suppose it all fit together.
>
> Even my daughter finally said - "What is with those costumes?! They didn't
> really wear their make-up like that, did they?"
>
> Denise B
>
> _______________________________________________
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Land of Oz wrote:

> I thought sure there would be several comments this morning!  Are you 
> all too shocked beyond comment?

I completely forgot it was going to be on. I'll have to wait for the dvd.



Dawn


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Looks beeyoootiful, Dawn!  I especially like the sleeves, and that gown 
fabric!

-E House 

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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cassanova pt 2
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 11:58:57 -0700
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To me this is exemplifies absolutely the smartest attitude towards viewing costumes in movies.  What a great experience and memory. 
Thank you for sharing!

Saragrace
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Lynn Downward<mailto:lynndownward@gmail.com> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 10:40 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cassanova pt 2


  I watched this program with my daughter, who has worn costumes all her
  15 years. We decided in the first half hour that the hair and costumes
  were wrong, the history might be off and that we would watch it the
  same way we watched The Knight's Tale with "Jeff" Chaucer. In other
  words, we suspended belief and went for the fun that was written into
  the movie. We didn't fret about the costumes at all - until someone in
  one of the court scenes was wearing a brocade vest-type piece that
  matched exactly the brocade on the walls of the room. The we laughed.

  I might add that my daughter spent the last week whispering to me:
  Only 5 more days until Cassanova, only 4 more days until Cassanova...
  We talked about the costumes but more about the fun colors and the
  variations on the historical. She even brought out one of my costume
  survey books to compare what we saw to the reality in portraits. I
  believe she learned more about this period - heck, any period - than
  any other movie or program we've ever watched. This was the best
  costume conversation I've ever had with her! For me this program was a
  resounding success.

  Anyway, anything with Peter O'Toole is worth watching. Even my
  daughter who hasn't seen many of his later movies said, "Wow, what
  bones!"

  Raising geniuses in Northern California,
  LynnD


  On 10/16/06, Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net<mailto:landofoz@netins.net>> wrote:
  > I thought sure there would be several comments this morning!  Are you all
  > too shocked beyond comment?
  >
  > I think it was pretty clear in part 2 that the costumes (esp. women's) were
  > fantasy intrepretations, barely based on anything historical.  I have to
  > admit that I loved the punk hair and the "venetian blind" hoops in the scene
  > from the party at Naples. The story line was just a bit too twisted, but I
  > suppose it all fit together.
  >
  > Even my daughter finally said - "What is with those costumes?! They didn't
  > really wear their make-up like that, did they?"
  >
  > Denise B
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > h-costume mailing list
  > h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>
  >
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Folks,

I'm including a confirmation list of email names of people who have 
signed up. If you are participating, please check to see if I have you 
on the list. I fished a few sign-ups out of the trash bin, but may have 
missed some.

If you are not participating, you can delete this message. :)


Dawn

wickedfrau@msn
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cassanova pt 2
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 16:35:39 -0400
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IMHO,  Part 2 cemented the thought that this interpretation was for 
"comedy purposes"

Made me think of a "Knight's Tale" more than once while viewing it.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Oct 16, 2006, at 9:47 AM, Land of Oz wrote:

> I thought sure there would be several comments this morning!  Are you 
> all too shocked beyond comment?
>
> I think it was pretty clear in part 2 that the costumes (esp. women's) 
> were fantasy intrepretations, barely based on anything historical.  I 
> have to admit that I loved the punk hair and the "venetian blind" 
> hoops in the scene from the party at Naples. The story line was just a 
> bit too twisted, but I suppose it all fit together.
>
> Even my daughter finally said - "What is with those costumes?! They 
> didn't really wear their make-up like that, did they?"
>
> Denise B
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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 Well, I thought it was kind of fun, and I'm a stickler for costume
authenticity. But it fit in with the mood of the whole presentation,
since the "older Cassanova" scenes were costumed and set in a grimer
"reality" while the "past" scenes were lit, set, costumed, and even
dialogued differently. As if filtered through memory. Everything mostly
lighter, brighter, and more outrageous. 

So it worked for me.

Cindy Abel

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cassanova pt 2
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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If you think about it a certain way, it was probably
really good for all of us, for a change to let go and
just enjoy the movie--once we all decided to relax. :)
And for Lynn and her daughter (one of the most
genuinely wonderful young women on the planet, I
happen to know) even more so.

JimDear and I had been at Sea World all day--Gaslamp
San Diego the whole day before--and were exausted, but
it kept us awake all the way through to the lovely
ending. 

MaggiRos

--- "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu> wrote:

>  
> 
>  Well, I thought it was kind of fun, and I'm a
> stickler for costume
> authenticity. But it fit in with the mood of the
> whole presentation,
> since the "older Cassanova" scenes were costumed and
> set in a grimer
> "reality" while the "past" scenes were lit, set,
> costumed, and even
> dialogued differently. As if filtered through
> memory. Everything mostly
> lighter, brighter, and more outrageous. 
> 
> So it worked for me.
> 
> Cindy Abel
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cassanova pt 2
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Status: RO

I guess you could throw a psychological spin on the show in that 
underneath the public aspect of elegance and sophistication (as typified 
by the outward attire the 18th century is famous for), the private 
aspect is one of _____ (fill in the blank with own perspective of the 
"reality" of 18c life), which could be represented by the "unreal" 
colors of the clothes and make-up, partially torn away garments,  
tattered edges, anomalies of behaviors of both the costumes and 
characters.  I think the comment, in Naples, by the upwardly-mobile 
opera singer probably summed up the attitude of the whole show:  
"...because we're all going to die..."...so what the heck, let 'er rip!!!

Theresa Eacker



Land of Oz wrote:
>
> I thought sure there would be several comments this morning!  Are you 
> all too shocked beyond comment?
>
> I think it was pretty clear in part 2 that the costumes (esp. women's) 
> were fantasy intrepretations, barely based on anything historical.  I 
> have to admit that I loved the punk hair and the "venetian blind" 
> hoops in the scene from the party at Naples. The story line was just a 
> bit too twisted, but I suppose it all fit together.
>
> Even my daughter finally said - "What is with those costumes?! They 
> didn't really wear their make-up like that, did they?"
>
> Denise B
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cassanova pt 2
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 16:53:17 -0600
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Status: RO

Your comment on unreal colors reminded me of the movie "Angels and 
Insects".  While I think the cut of the women's dresses therein was 
fairly accurate (mid 19th c, as I recall), the colors and patterns did 
not appear to my slightly trained eye to be so, but I thought it was a 
wonderful design choice since such colors and patterns followed the 
insect theme.    Clearly an example of how period costumes can be 
successfully stylized to promote a concept.

Sylrog

On Oct 16, 2006, at 4:29 PM, Theresa Eacker wrote:

> I guess you could throw a psychological spin on the show in that 
> underneath the public aspect of elegance and sophistication (as 
> typified by the outward attire the 18th century is famous for), the 
> private aspect is one of _____ (fill in the blank with own perspective 
> of the "reality" of 18c life), which could be represented by the 
> "unreal" colors of the clothes and make-up, partially torn away 
> garments,  tattered edges, anomalies of behaviors of both the costumes 
> and characters.  I think the comment, in Naples, by the 
> upwardly-mobile opera singer probably summed up the attitude of the 
> whole show:  "...because we're all going to die..."...so what the 
> heck, let 'er rip!!!
>
> Theresa Eacker
>
>
>
> Land of Oz wrote:
>>
>> I thought sure there would be several comments this morning!  Are you 
>> all too shocked beyond comment?
>>
>> I think it was pretty clear in part 2 that the costumes (esp. 
>> women's) were fantasy intrepretations, barely based on anything 
>> historical.  I have to admit that I loved the punk hair and the 
>> "venetian blind" hoops in the scene from the party at Naples. The 
>> story line was just a bit too twisted, but I suppose it all fit 
>> together.
>>
>> Even my daughter finally said - "What is with those costumes?! They 
>> didn't really wear their make-up like that, did they?"
>>
>> Denise B
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Status: RO

Hello Dawn,
Thankyou for letting us see your new dress. It is stunning beautifull and 
looks so nice in the beautifull sourroundings.

Bjarne who came back from Autumn Ball yesterday, and still is a little 
tired.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 2:11 AM
Subject: [h-cost] my new dress


> All,
>
> I finished this last night so I could wear it in the rain today to the 
> last day of renfest.
>
> I took inspiration from several Italian dresses from 1540-65, particularly 
> one portrait of Titian's daughter Lavinia. The full writeup is in my dress 
> diary on my website:
>
> www.reddawn.net/costume/irondress.htm
>
> Or you can take the shortcut to the photos alone:
>
> www.reddawn.net/costume/iron/Dscn1997.jpg
> www.reddawn.net/costume/iron/Dscn2009.jpg
> www.reddawn.net/costume/iron/Dscn2014.jpg
>
>
>
> Dawn
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From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Anyone at Winterthur this weekend?
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Is anyone else planning to attend the Fall Forum on Fashion: Fashion
in Film this Saturday at Winterthur Museum in DE? It's the first event
listed here:

http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/RegionII/event_workshop_sym.htm

Allison T.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Oct 17 05:28:31 2006
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Subject: [h-cost] Kent State exhibit
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I saw the current exhibit at Kent State University, "The Age of Nudity," on  
Sunday.  It is very well done, and I recommend it for anyone interested in  
late 18th and early 19th century costume.  There is also a retrospective of  
Oscar de la Renta's work.
 
Well worth a visit.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: OT - +size swimwear
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Dear Rhonda,

	Very kind of you to offer; however, a friend in Texas has offered to
be buyer for me and hopefully within two weeks I'll have a new swimsuit!

	Again my thanks to you, and everyone else, who were so very helpful.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
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Dawn--
I loved participating last year and would like to do so this year. Missed the deadline because I haven't had time to write up a little "who I am" paragraph....is it really too late?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>Sent: Oct 16, 2006 3:29 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange 
>
>Folks,
>
>I'm including a confirmation list of email names of people who have 
>signed up. If you are participating, please check to see if I have you 
>on the list. I fished a few sign-ups out of the trash bin, but may have 
>missed some.
>
>If you are not participating, you can delete this message. :)
>
>
>Dawn
>
>wickedfrau@msn
>taniampembroke@aol
>sharon.nevin@gmail
>sfarmer@goldsword
>sarah_nucci@yahoo
>robinandkellydorman@hotmail
>robin@shell.nightowl
>ringland@intrex
>purplkat@optonline
>primevalooze@yahoo
>penhalion@juno
>nicolaa@rogers
>mylaar@gmail
>moreplentyn@earthlink
>mcallahan@cox
>maggie.gene@justinanimator
>M311@aol
>m.p.decker@att
>lalahcatlady@netscape
>katie_lewis@lycos
>jmhr3@yahoo
>hdpinto@verizon
>goofy4@comcast
>garden@netspeed
>FyneHats2@aol
>fran@lavoltapress
>estela_dufrayse@hotmail
>elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast
>delasue@yahoo
>Debloughcostumes@aol
>cschmitt@genteelarts
>costumrs@radiks
>ckinsey@kumc
>cinbarnes@gmail
>chiara.francesca@gmail
>Cheryldee@aol
>camelothorse@earthlink
>caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo
>aquazoo@patriot
>AnnBWass@aol
>ailith@neo.rr
>
>end list
>
>_______________________________________________
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ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
> Dawn--
> I loved participating last year and would like to do so this year. Missed the deadline because I haven't had time to write up a little "who I am" paragraph....is it really too late?
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> 

Ruth, I haven't made assignments yet, so if you send me your info I can 
add you to the list.


Dawn


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From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
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I'm just finishing up a dress for my daughter.  It's Italian ren, about 1490.  I'd like to turn it in as an arts project but I know the judges will hassle me about using linen.  I've been told that linen was only for undergarments and wasn't used for outer garments.  Can any of you help me disprove that?

Julie

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] silk prices in USA
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Hi,
I just wanted to share a bargain i had recently.
Hyena had half price sale for solid silk taffeta in selected collours. I 
baught 10 yards of 2 collours and payed 320 dollars included shipping.
It came home to me directly, didnt even had to pay any taxes for it.
So i calculated and find that i have payed 96 danish kr. for each yard, 
usually i pay 700 for a meter..............
You guys are lucky over there, that you can have it that cheap!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
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I'll do that as soon as I get home from work today. Thanks! --Ruth Anne

-----Original Message-----
>From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>Sent: Oct 17, 2006 11:49 AM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
>
>ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
>> Dawn--
>> I loved participating last year and would like to do so this year. Missed the deadline because I haven't had time to write up a little "who I am" paragraph....is it really too late?
>> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>> 
>
>Ruth, I haven't made assignments yet, so if you send me your info I can 
>add you to the list.
>
>
>Dawn
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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On Tue, 17 Oct 2006, Julie wrote:

> I'm just finishing up a dress for my daughter.  It's Italian ren,
> about 1490.  I'd like to turn it in as an arts project but I know the
> judges will hassle me about using linen.  I've been told that linen
> was only for undergarments and wasn't used for outer garments.  Can
> any of you help me disprove that?

I get worried whenever I see that statement, because I think it is a
misapplication of something I originally wrote to this list years ago and
have repeated elsewhere. I've posted in the past (and still maintain) that
so far, I've seen no indication that linen was used for outer garments IN
MEDIEVAL WESTERN EUROPE. Now I sometimes hear people insisting that "linen
wasn't period" for the SCA -- which is far too broad a statement! For
example, linen for outer garments shows up with some frequency in
documents from Elizabethan England and the early American colonies.

In your case, 1490 Italy is neither "medieval" nor "Western European." I
know Maureen Mazzaoui has shown use of cotton at this time (though I'm not
sure for what sort of garments). For linen, I'd start by looking at Carole
Collier Frick's "Dressing Renaissance Florence" -- perhaps someone on this
list has a copy they can check for linen references to see if there's
anything worth pursuing? Also "Renaissance Dress in Italy, 1400-1500," by
Jacqueline Herald.

And anyone else interested in this -- when you hear someone say "Linen
wasn't period for outer garments" in the SCA, will you please find out
where they got that idea? If they say it's from me, tell them they didn't
get the whole story. I do like getting credit for my work, but I hate to
see it oversimplified to the point of error.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] organ/pipe pleats
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Status: RO

A feature common to a lot of the dresses in my era/area is a row of pleats 
falling from the waist at the back (but not the front or sides).  I've been 
using rolled pleats taken in a rectangular piece of fabric for this, and 
they do a generally good jpb of giving the right look.  But I've become 
annoyed with them lately--when the pleat moves from side to side, it gets 
these unappealing horizontal wrinkles, which really isn't the look I'm going 
for.  Another problem is that the line where the pleats meet the waist seam 
is basically straight, whereas most images show rounded humps. (I'm too lazy 
right now to upload an appropriate picture, so take a look at this for a 
general idea of what I'm talking about; her sash mostly obscures the 
waistline at the back, but you can still get a hint of what the area where 
the pleats meet the waist seam looks like:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/backsketch.jpg )

Right now, I'm in the middle of making a version of this, my first 
intentionally English dress ever:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg (though I'm going to put off 
making that heawear--oy)
(I won't go into detail about why I'm pretty sure that the back of this has 
the back pleats as seen in the first link; suffice it to say that I feel 
reasonably confident based on other paintings.)  Anyway, I went ahead with 
my normal rolled-pleats version, but the horizontal wrinkle problem was even 
worse than usual, so I have just officially gotten fed up and decided to try 
something new.

I'm thinking of using organ/pipe pleats instead, taken in a piece of fabric 
that's closer to a semi-circle. (Well, several put together, probably.) I'm 
hoping that will fix the problem of wrinkling, and give the 
big-fat-rolls-with-curved-tops look; the semi-circle will mean that I'll 
still have a hefty amount of hem, as shown in most images.

I've never played with this style of pleat before, though.  Has anyone on 
the list messed about with it much?  I'm thinking I may want to shape the 
edges of the roll (picture a cylinder cut off at an angle) rather than just 
stick it on there at a 90 degree angle, but I'm not sure if it's worth the 
bother.  Also, I definitely plan to stuff each pleat, but I have yet to 
figure out what stuffing to use.  A roll of fulled wool?  Wadding of scrap 
fabric?  Each roll should be at least 1" in diameter, so we're talking about 
some significant stuffing.  I'm also worried about avoiding a ridge where 
the stuffing ends; I want the skirt to fall naturally to the ground, rather 
than going out while over the stuffing, but straight down where the stuffing 
ends.

(Sigh--I'd already stitched the rolled pleats in place and called it done; 
sooo much work I'm making for myself now!  And people wonder why I rarely 
get things 100% finished....  At least this one has a must-be-wearable-by 
date, which may help.)

-E House
PS--I'll be using this dress to test my theory on the purpose of those white 
bands.  I _think_ I've got it, or at least a good possibility, but I won't 
know until the pleats are settled! 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] help with docs for linen
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There is the reference in Cennini's _Craftsman's Handbook_ (from Italy, 
late 14th or early 15th century):

"A section dealing with miscellaneous incidental operations:  First, 
block printing on cloth

Inasmuch as the execution of certain products painted on linen cloth, 
which are good for garments for little boys or children, and for certain 
church lecterns, still has to do with the profession of the brush, the 
way to do them is this." (p. 115-16 in my Dover edition)

In response to Robin's suggestion, the only mention of linen in the 
index of Dressing Renaissance Florence is "linen merchants."  It's 
possible that there's something buried in the text that's not reflected 
in the index, though.  There's no linen mentioned in Herald's index at 
all, but it doesn't seem very comprehensive.

Melanie Schuessler


Julie wrote:
 > I'm just finishing up a dress for my daughter.  It's Italian ren,
 > about 1490.  I'd like to turn it in as an arts project but I know the
 > judges will hassle me about using linen.  I've been told that linen
 > was only for undergarments and wasn't used for outer garments.  Can
 > any of you help me disprove that?
 >
 > Julie
 >
 > _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing
 > list h-costume@mail.indra.com
 > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 >



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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help with docs for linen
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi Robin, 

Broadly, "Western Europe" does include Italy, simply
looking left to right in the sense of Western
Civilization. It's not Eastern Europe, surely. 

Maggie

--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> I've posted in the past
> (and still maintain) that
> so far, I've seen no indication that linen was used
> for outer garments IN
> MEDIEVAL WESTERN EUROPE. 
<snip>

> In your case, 1490 Italy is neither "medieval" nor
> "Western European." 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help with docs for linen
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On Tue, 17 Oct 2006, MaggiRos wrote:

> Broadly, "Western Europe" does include Italy, simply looking left to
> right in the sense of Western Civilization. It's not Eastern Europe,
> surely.

Europe is indeed in the West, or the Western World, or part of Western
Civilization, as distinct from the East (formerly called the Orient). But
Europe has internal regional divisions.

As medieval historians typically* use the term, Italy is not in Western
Europe. It is considered to be in Southern Europe. Scandinavia is not
Western Europe either; it's Northern Europe.

As modern historians use the term, Western Europe reflects political or
economic divisions and usually refers to the NATO countries of Europe or
the European countries that were not allied with the "Eastern bloc." So
there's a difference -- one that I have to remember when I'm talking to
historians of other stripes!

--Robin

*Yes, I'm sure there are exceptions.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2006 19:08:22 -0600
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Me, too? I'll send it tonight, in case I'm squeeking under the wire....
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange


> ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
> > Dawn--
> > I loved participating last year and would like to do so this year.
Missed the deadline because I haven't had time to write up a little "who I
am" paragraph....is it really too late?
> > --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> > scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> >
>
> Ruth, I haven't made assignments yet, so if you send me your info I can
> add you to the list.
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> I'm just finishing up a dress for my daughter.  It's Italian ren, about 1490.
> I'd like to turn it in as an arts project but I know the judges will hassle me
> about using linen.  I've been told that linen was only for undergarments and
> wasn't used for outer garments.  Can any of you help me disprove that?
> 
> Julie
> 

Ah, exactly why I dislike contests. I don't think you can disprove that,
because I think it's true for the majority of known clothes. I would just
document what would have been the correct fabric and then say I used linen
because it was a preiod fabric and a better choice for my needs (and then
say what those needs are). If judges "hassle" you about that, then they are
not good judges. If they take off points, that's their job if they follow
the rules. But almost anything we make today isn't "period" in some way or
other. You should enter contests anyway, just for fun! See how you score on
the other criteria.

Gail Finke

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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Discounted patterns
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Status: RO

            I'm down to about 280 patterns, most of which are Victorian,
early through late, and Edwardian. A modest amount of buck-skinning,
Folkwear, a couple of Regency corset patterns, and a few oddments. 45%
discount, people. Bargain prices. For orders over $200.00 I'll throw in free
shipping, which won't show on the shopping cart, but rather handled when I
get the order. I would like these out of here by the close of the month.
Tell your friends!

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

 

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Hiya,

You are thinking along the same thoughts as me on the shaping to achieve the 
rolled look without the horizontal pull, I can't wait to see finished 
pictures, so few people do this time period!

As for the stuffing and possible ridge line, if you allow for the most 
stuffing at the point where the skirts meet the bodice and gradually decline 
the amount of stuffing further down the pleat, you'll avoid a ridge.  I 
would make a roll of cotton batting, then add graduating layers of flat 
batting to the skirt panels before you roll the pleats, so that the dress 
has a layer of batting, the rolls would then be inserted as you form the 
pleats.

I hope I make sense.

Good luck on finishing!  I'm there too on a major project...
Kelly


An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign.


Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician

>E House writes
>  I'm also worried about avoiding a ridge where the stuffing ends; I want 
>the skirt to fall naturally to the ground, rather than going out while over 
>the stuffing, but straight down where the stuffing ends.


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Subject: [h-cost] costume calendars
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There was some talk last year about finding the perfect costume 
calendar. I found a good selection at www.calendars.com, and just got an 
email from them mentioning a free shipping and free gift wrap offer for 
this month, and thought I'd pass it along. No affiliation, just a 
satisfied customer. :)


Dawn



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Cotton Satin Corset 1780
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Hello.
I have finally mannaged to draft the pattern from the big Kyoto Fashion 
book: "Corset of brown cotton satin with 162 whalebones inside".
I was thinking about making it from the thick duchesse satin i made my light 
blue suit from, as i have some leftovers of it.
Any disatvantages of using silk duchesse satin for a corset?
I plan to use 2 layers of linnen interlinning, in wich i will slide the 
bones. I thoaght it would be particular beautifull with white sewing silk 
stitched channels.
Much apreciated with feed back about this, as it will be my biggest 
challenge ever..................

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Cotton Satin Corset 1780
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At 08:06 AM 10/18/2006, you wrote:
>Hello.
>I have finally mannaged to draft the pattern from the big Kyoto 
>Fashion book: "Corset of brown cotton satin with 162 whalebones inside".
>I was thinking about making it from the thick duchesse satin i made 
>my light blue suit from, as i have some leftovers of it.
>Any disatvantages of using silk duchesse satin for a corset?
>I plan to use 2 layers of linnen interlinning, in wich i will slide 
>the bones. I thoaght it would be particular beautifull with white 
>sewing silk stitched channels.
>Much apreciated with feed back about this, as it will be my biggest 
>challenge ever..................
>
>Bjarne

Since you are using the linen to take the stress, I think it should 
work well (and be lovely, too).


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Trip to London
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Hello UK h-cost members,
I've got a surprise short notice trip to London on Sunday.  I'd love
to meet up with any of the locals for tea, museum crawling, the fabric
store & used bookstore tour or even a tour at a historic site or
theater where you work or volunteer.

We're ariving Mon. I will have 25-26 Nov and 29-31 by myself.  I can
meet up on other days, but will have my dear fiance on hand.

Bribes & facilitating payments:  we live in Silicon Valley, very close
to ThaiSilks.  Hollar if you'd like us to bring something in
particular.  I used to tempt people with treasures from California
wineries, but the latest travel restrictions into the UK forbid
hand-carried wine.  It's a cruel world.

Raz & I also do a lot of historic dance styles, Renn to Ragtime.  If
anyone knows of a dance event or class we'd love to have your advice
and companionship.
Thanks so much,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] help with docs for linen
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I get digest so please excuse that I haven't got a quote to enter the conversation with.

There are several references in Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince to linen outer garments; some cloaks, a fighting jack, and something else (at work not at at home).  I think mostly from, wait for it, Italy.  14th century.  So, why not late 15th century?

Cynthia, the lurker
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Cotton Satin Corset 1780
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2006 20:05:51 +0200
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Hi Joan,
Thanks, i hope so two.
I was thinking using following. Outer layer satin. 2 layers linnen wich i 
draw in the lines on the 2nd linnen layer, so that i can make all the nice 
stitching, and then when finished, put a lining inside.
Original stays has flossing, but i dont think i dare to make it, as i have 
never made it before..

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Cotton Satin Corset 1780


> At 08:06 AM 10/18/2006, you wrote:
>>Hello.
>>I have finally mannaged to draft the pattern from the big Kyoto Fashion 
>>book: "Corset of brown cotton satin with 162 whalebones inside".
>>I was thinking about making it from the thick duchesse satin i made my 
>>light blue suit from, as i have some leftovers of it.
>>Any disatvantages of using silk duchesse satin for a corset?
>>I plan to use 2 layers of linnen interlinning, in wich i will slide the 
>>bones. I thoaght it would be particular beautifull with white sewing silk 
>>stitched channels.
>>Much apreciated with feed back about this, as it will be my biggest 
>>challenge ever..................
>>
>>Bjarne
>
> Since you are using the linen to take the stress, I think it should work 
> well (and be lovely, too).
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
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Yikes!  That is very expensive none the less!  I can get it online for $18/yard and at the fashion district for between $14 and $16.  I am so sorry it costs so much more over there!  

If you ever need help buying it more cheaply, give me a "ring."!

Sg
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Subject: [h-cost] 17th Century question
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My costume design class is researching the 1660's for "Tartuffe".   They had 
a question about the strange little head piece seen on some ladies of  the 
period.  It is a little disk attached to the forehead with a protruding  stick 
and ball attached to the end.  What is that?  Is it worn for a  special occasion 
or in a particular part of Europe?  It seems to occur  primarily in "Low 
Countries" research.  Can anyone give me some  information.  Sometimes (usually), 
the teacher doesn't know  everything.  They are awaiting your response.  
Thanks ever so  much!
 
Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Discount patterns & introducing myself
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Hi Lorina,

Would this free shipping also count for international?

& a short introduction:
I have been reading along here and know Bjarne from LiveJournal. France 
Grimble pointed me at this list :-)
I live in the Netherlands am very fond of the Victorian times especially 
1870 - 1890.
Working from home raising two children and building up a business - for 
over a year now - selling Victorian dressmaking supplies & corsets.

Thank you!

Regards,

Manon Antoinette



>
>             I'm down to about 280 patterns, most of which are Victorian,
> early through late, and Edwardian. A modest amount of buck-skinning,
> Folkwear, a couple of Regency corset patterns, and a few oddments. 45%
> discount, people. Bargain prices. For orders over $200.00 I'll throw in free
> shipping, which won't show on the shopping cart, but rather handled when I
> get the order. I would like these out of here by the close of the month.
> Tell your friends!
>
>  
>
> Regards,
>
> Lorina
>
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
>
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
>
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>   
>   
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Cotton Satin Corset 1780
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Hi,
The embroidery on the top of the front.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Cotton Satin Corset 1780


>
>     A lining is a nice finish, and also you can use a nice strong linen
> or hemp canvas & not have to worry if it's pretty or not.
>
>     There are some originals that are stitched through the outer layer,
> but for many brocades or silks the outer layer is applied afterward.
> It can go either way.
>
>     What do you mean by flossing?
>
>     -Carol
>
>> Hi Joan,
>> Thanks, i hope so two.
>> I was thinking using following. Outer layer satin. 2 layers linnen wich i
>> draw in the lines on the 2nd linnen layer, so that i can make all the 
>> nice
>> stitching, and then when finished, put a lining inside.
>> Original stays has flossing, but i dont think i dare to make it, as i 
>> have
>> never made it before..
>>
>> Bjarne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Lena <lenastrid@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trip to London
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Hi Cin,

AFAIK, I'm not booked for anything on those weekends,
so give me a shout off-list regarding time and place.
Oh, and if you're interested in the medieval period,
I'd recommend a (weekday) visit to Oxbow bookshop in
Oxford. 

/Lena

--- Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello UK h-cost members,
> I've got a surprise short notice trip to London on
> Sunday.  I'd love
> to meet up with any of the locals for tea, museum
> crawling, the fabric
> store & used bookstore tour or even a tour at a
> historic site or
> theater where you work or volunteer.
> 
> We're ariving Mon. I will have 25-26 Nov and 29-31
> by myself.  I can
> meet up on other days, but will have my dear fiance
> on hand.
> 
> Bribes & facilitating payments:  we live in Silicon
> Valley, very close
> to ThaiSilks.  Hollar if you'd like us to bring
> something in
> particular.  I used to tempt people with treasures
> from California
> wineries, but the latest travel restrictions into
> the UK forbid
> hand-carried wine.  It's a cruel world.
> 
> Raz & I also do a lot of historic dance styles, Renn
> to Ragtime.  If
> anyone knows of a dance event or class we'd love to
> have your advice
> and companionship.
> Thanks so much,
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com 
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Drat.  I don't have the Kyoto book--is there an image of this corset 
anywhere online?

-E House

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk prices in USA
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2006 22:38:43 +0200
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Hi Saragrace,
You are lucky.
I dont remember if i posted the right price at first, i payed 14 dollars a 
yard wich was half price.
And it still is amazingly cheap compared to Denmark prices. I wonder why the 
prices are so high here?
I think perhaps the shops takes 100 % advanse.
When i baught the nice green taffeta, the man who sold me the fabric told 
about deseasce in the silk worms, but i didnt believe him.
Another shop sells James Hares silks, for rediculous high prices. People 
like me have ben so stupid to buy, in stead of import ourself.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk prices in USA


Yikes!  That is very expensive none the less!  I can get it online for 
$18/yard and at the fashion district for between $14 and $16.  I am so sorry 
it costs so much more over there!

If you ever need help buying it more cheaply, give me a "ring."!

Sg
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Cotton Satin Corset 1780
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E House wrote:

> Drat.  I don't have the Kyoto book--is there an image of this corset 
> anywhere online?
> 

On their website:
http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/collection.cgi?lang=e&path=1760/11-000337_a

The book has a diagram of it though, showing the pieces and the boning 
channels.


Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk prices in USA
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Ahh... $14 is indeed a good price, as long as the quality is good.  I get 
mine here:
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/Catalog_items.aspx?Query=taffeta+silk
but then, of course, I work for them.

It's generally $11/yd there, but the quality is unfortunately hit or miss; 
you can find some absolutely great taffetas, but right next to them, you'll 
find lightweight slubby ones that just aren't that useful.  At the moment, 
they don't have too many iridescents, but they have some nice-looking faille 
taffetas. Usually, I'd suggest ordering 1/8 yd pieces of the fabrics you're 
considering first, but given the shipping time involved, I'll suggest 
calling in your order, explaining your situation to whoever you talk to (ask 
for Cathy) and ask for suggestions from her; she's used to working with 
people like us!

-E House


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Cotton Satin Corset 1780
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Hi,
Yes, i have shameless used it on my webpage. You can find it further down on 
this page;
http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm
And the picture gets larger when you click it!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Cotton Satin Corset 1780


> Drat.  I don't have the Kyoto book--is there an image of this corset 
> anywhere online?
>
> -E House
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendaslists@exemail.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <319.bc2e662.3267b025@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century question
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 10:28:36 +1000
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Can you point to a picture?

Glenda.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Cheryldee@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2:28 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 17th Century question


> My costume design class is researching the 1660's for "Tartuffe".   They 
> had
> a question about the strange little head piece seen on some ladies of  the
> period.  It is a little disk attached to the forehead with a protruding 
> stick
> and ball attached to the end.  What is that?  Is it worn for a  special 
> occasion
> or in a particular part of Europe?  It seems to occur  primarily in "Low
> Countries" research.  Can anyone give me some  information.  Sometimes 
> (usually),
> the teacher doesn't know  everything.  They are awaiting your response.
> Thanks ever so  much!
>
> Cheryl Odom
> College of Santa Fe
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk prices in USA
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 8:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk prices in USA


> Ahh... $14 is indeed a good price, as long as the quality is good.  I get 
> mine here:
> http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/Catalog_items.aspx?Query=taffeta+silk
> but then, of course, I work for them.
>
<snip>
But they don't ship overseas so it's not much help to people outside the 
USA.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Cotton Satin Corset 1780
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     A lining is a nice finish, and also you can use a nice strong linen
or hemp canvas & not have to worry if it's pretty or not.

     There are some originals that are stitched through the outer layer,
but for many brocades or silks the outer layer is applied afterward. 
It can go either way.

     What do you mean by flossing?

     -Carol

> Hi Joan,
> Thanks, i hope so two.
> I was thinking using following. Outer layer satin. 2 layers linnen wich i
> draw in the lines on the 2nd linnen layer, so that i can make all the nice
> stitching, and then when finished, put a lining inside.
> Original stays has flossing, but i dont think i dare to make it, as i have
> never made it before..
>
> Bjarne


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Subject: [h-cost] help with docs for linen
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Thanks Rogin, Melanie, Cynthia & Gail for your help.  I have Cennini.  I'll use that quote.  I don't have FITAOTBP though - it's on my list at Amazon.  Can someone pretty please come up with a quote?

Thanks
Julie
----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> 
> There are several references in Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince to linen outer garments; some cloaks, a fighting jack, and something else (at work not at at home).  I think mostly from, wait for it, Italy.  14th century.  So, why not late 15th century?
> 
> Cynthia, the lurker

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Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2006 23:39:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] organ/pipe pleats
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hiya,
   
  I am also working on a Tudor gown where I was also planning on doing a rolled pleat. I did my kirtle in a simple rolled pleat, and I know what you mean by it dropping straight from the waistline. I haven't noticed the horizontal wrinkling, as the pleats are in the back, and I can't see myself while moving.
   
  I was thinking of adding a strip of wool to the top of the gown pleats, to fill them out more before rolling them up. Then sewing them in to the edge of the gown's bodice bottom, similar to what I did with my husband's Tudor jacket skirt. 
   
  His skirt was a circular skirt that I made artificial humps by pinching a small "dart" and sewing that down, then sewing each hump to the edge of the jacket so it goes out before going down. I also held the darts together with a tape in two areas to keep each "pleat". This is following some of the info and pattern given in two books, History of Costume by Payne (pattern in the 1st ed.), and Tudor Costuming (writtend description) by Norris, for an extant military "base". The problem I came across is that my husband's skirt did not have an internal padding or quilting to stiffen the whole skirt, as the extant base does. So the pleats don't really hang very well. It does do a little better with a skirt made from melton wool (a waffenrock I helped make), but was still not perfect in how it hung as a pleat.
   
  I will be remaking parts of my gown (and kirtle) before I get back to the skirts on the gown, so it will be a week or more before I can do the skirt. But I also have a must-wear-by date of Nov 11, so one way or another it will be done, and photos posted after that day. I do look forward to seeing what you come up with in your experiments, and perhaps together all of us working on these pleats can figure out what is going on.
   
  And I also look forward to your physical example of your theory on the white band. I wanted to do something for my gown, but I won't have the time. I will be lucky to get the partlet and waist sash done in time, considering the redo on the kirtle.
   
  Kimiko
   
   
  
E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
    <snip>
  I'm thinking of using organ/pipe pleats instead, taken in a piece of fabric 
that's closer to a semi-circle. (Well, several put together, probably.) I'm 
hoping that will fix the problem of wrinkling, and give the 
big-fat-rolls-with-curved-tops look; the semi-circle will mean that I'll 
still have a hefty amount of hem, as shown in most images.

I've never played with this style of pleat before, though. Has anyone on 
the list messed about with it much? I'm thinking I may want to shape the 
edges of the roll (picture a cylinder cut off at an angle) rather than just 
stick it on there at a 90 degree angle, but I'm not sure if it's worth the 
bother. Also, I definitely plan to stuff each pleat, but I have yet to 
figure out what stuffing to use. A roll of fulled wool? Wadding of scrap 
fabric? Each roll should be at least 1" in diameter, so we're talking about 
some significant stuffing. I'm also worried about avoiding a ridge where 
the stuffing ends; I want the skirt to fall naturally to the ground, rather 
than going out while over the stuffing, but straight down where the stuffing 
ends.

(Sigh--I'd already stitched the rolled pleats in place and called it done; 
sooo much work I'm making for myself now! And people wonder why I rarely 
get things 100% finished.... At least this one has a must-be-wearable-by 
date, which may help.)

-E House
PS--I'll be using this dress to test my theory on the purpose of those white 
bands. I _think_ I've got it, or at least a good possibility, but I won't 
know until the pleats are settled! 


 		
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 17th century question
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Cheryl,
I remember seeing illustrations in a book of the "disc and stick"
headdress you describe, but I can't remember the source (it was a long
time ago). I think it was a Low Countries style too.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century question
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Hi,
Ah yes sudently i remember a picture with that. I think it is a kind of mask 
to protekt the face from frost in the winter. Its not a head dress but a 
mask.
>From what i remember, it was only a short period it was used.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendaslists@exemail.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2:28 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century question


> Can you point to a picture?
>
> Glenda.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Cheryldee@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2:28 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] 17th Century question
>
>
>> My costume design class is researching the 1660's for "Tartuffe".   They 
>> had
>> a question about the strange little head piece seen on some ladies of 
>> the
>> period.  It is a little disk attached to the forehead with a protruding 
>> stick
>> and ball attached to the end.  What is that?  Is it worn for a  special 
>> occasion
>> or in a particular part of Europe?  It seems to occur  primarily in "Low
>> Countries" research.  Can anyone give me some  information.  Sometimes 
>> (usually),
>> the teacher doesn't know  everything.  They are awaiting your response.
>> Thanks ever so  much!
>>
>> Cheryl Odom
>> College of Santa Fe
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>
>
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Usually i take up some photos on my website when i get back from the party 
at the gustavians in Sweden.
This time i need not to do it, as a dear friend of mine, Lars Rosenberg made 
a slideshow for you to see.
It was the last "summersday" of the year, in the evening, the full moon came 
up, and i enjoyed every moment of it.
If you click this link, and turns on a full schreen on your computer, you 
should be able to have the slideshow:
Enjoy!
http://www.sodratornet.se/pertoft/beatelund/

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century ball
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 14:51:44 +0000
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Bjarne!  How lovely!  I felt absolutely trasnported back in time!  Perfect ambiance, setting and it seems like everyone worked really hard to make this dinner party look like a living protrait from the past!

Well done!

Elena/Gia

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> 

> Usually i take up some photos on my website when i get back from the party 
> at the gustavians in Sweden. 
> This time i need not to do it, as a dear friend of mine, Lars Rosenberg made 
> a slideshow for you to see. 
> It was the last "summersday" of the year, in the evening, the full moon came 
> up, and i enjoyed every moment of it. 
> If you click this link, and turns on a full schreen on your computer, you 
> should be able to have the slideshow: 
> Enjoy! 
> http://www.sodratornet.se/pertoft/beatelund/ 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews 
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
> But they don't ship overseas so it's not much help to people outside the 
> USA.

Drat.  I keep forgetting that they changed their policy.  I just called in 
to double check.

At some point, I might consider setting myself up as a semi-official 
forwarding agent--I'll discuss it with the boss.

-E House 

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The movie opens today. Anyone planning to go see it?



Dawn


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Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 14:12:42 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I am. :)

Chiara


On Fri, October 20, 2006 1:33 pm, Dawn said:
> The movie opens today. Anyone planning to go see it?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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Due to reviews that sight its utter devotion to the superficial [the New  
Yorker says that it doesn't try so much to make the Queen out to be like  Paris 
Hilton, as the film looks like it was MADE BY Paris Hilton] I might  just wait 
til the DVD. That will come soon enough.
 
I usually don't like these films that feel it necessary to equate  historical 
figures to modern "equivalents"...y'know like Mozart being a  misunderstood 
rock star. They are baloney. Usually the real stories and  personalities of the 
real people are more interesting and you learn nothing  about Marie 
Antoinette or the French Court at the time by anachronisms. Marie  Antoinette is as 
much a product of the 18th century and Paris Hilton is a  product of the 21st 
century and comparisons seem superficial at best.
 
But it could be entertaining, though the trailers don't make it seem so to  
me. The costumes look nice so I'll see it eventually for  that.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 23:16:11 -0400
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I am seeing it Saturday night.  

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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At 04:16 21/10/2006, you wrote:
>I am seeing it Saturday night.


It is not something I will bother with in the cinema, but may catch 
up with when it gets to TV. It has had terrible reviews here, and 
although I don't often take notice of reviews, I don't really fancy 
Marie Antoinette with modern music!

Suzi 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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I think this is a film made to catch big teenage girls, to romantise about 
the fashion, nothing else. Even the wigs/hairstyles has a little touch of 
todays sloppiness. Costumes looks nice in the pictures i have seen so far.
It opens here in Denmark next month, ill go off cause, but i think i want to 
take some earlplugs with me, i hate that they put rock music into that 
time............
Much better to read about her, i cant but recomend Stefan Zweigs novel Marie 
Antoinette, he has catched the time, better than any after 
him................
And when i think of it, i think that Jefferson in Paris made a very nice 
portrait of her, even the actress looked like her, with her pronounced 
habsburg lips and her eagle nose, also her tubby figure, and many bad things 
have ben told about her, they are mostly true, but it was not her fault.
For instance the finanse minister complainted to her about her extravagance, 
she told him she would love to cut down on her costume expenses, but he got 
very upset about that and told her she represented the french silk industry, 
and so on........................ She was catched in an invetible cobweb who 
led to the revolution.
Every time i see The night of Varennes (dont know if this is the english 
title) i keep on hoping that they will not be catched, i get so melancoly of 
that film. One thing i dont understand is why Count Fersen used such a big 
and heavy coach ( he knew they had to hurry)
And why in heavens name didnt Marie Antoinettes brother, the emperor of 
Austria help her?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 22:05:29 -0600
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It got a pretty bad review in our newspaper, and from the trailers 
shown on tv, it looked like it wouldnt be too great    Sounds like the 
only reason to see it is for the costumes.

Sylrog

On Oct 21, 2006, at 7:54 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> I think this is a film made to catch big teenage girls, to romantise 
> about the fashion, nothing else. Even the wigs/hairstyles has a little 
> touch of todays sloppiness. Costumes looks nice in the pictures i have 
> seen so far.
> It opens here in Denmark next month, ill go off cause, but i think i 
> want to take some earlplugs with me, i hate that they put rock music 
> into that time............
> Much better to read about her, i cant but recomend Stefan Zweigs novel 
> Marie Antoinette, he has catched the time, better than any after 
> him................
> And when i think of it, i think that Jefferson in Paris made a very 
> nice portrait of her, even the actress looked like her, with her 
> pronounced habsburg lips and her eagle nose, also her tubby figure, 
> and many bad things have ben told about her, they are mostly true, but 
> it was not her fault.
> For instance the finanse minister complainted to her about her 
> extravagance, she told him she would love to cut down on her costume 
> expenses, but he got very upset about that and told her she 
> represented the french silk industry, and so 
> on........................ She was catched in an invetible cobweb who 
> led to the revolution.
> Every time i see The night of Varennes (dont know if this is the 
> english title) i keep on hoping that they will not be catched, i get 
> so melancoly of that film. One thing i dont understand is why Count 
> Fersen used such a big and heavy coach ( he knew they had to hurry)
> And why in heavens name didnt Marie Antoinettes brother, the emperor 
> of Austria help her?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] new danish court dress
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Status: RO

Some years ago i made this danish court dress for a museum.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/mu7.htm
The dress is a reconstruktion of the french court style used in mid 1700 in 
Denmark.
A young girl asked me to make another one for her, she want a red one.
It is to be used at the mannor house, when the 1700 fair takes place. All 
this is outdoor activities at the mannor house, both servants and the 
aristocracy are supposed to mingle together, take strows in the courtyard, 
in the park, and so on. Tradesmen stands in the courtyard, selling different 
kinds of goods.
I have some consern about this.
First i hate red, but she insists on this, and after all she pays, so i 
accept this. ( would have preferred a dusty rose or something pastel)
Second i am conserned for her because she wil have difficulties managing the 
big skirt. All the width of the pannier is pleated into the waist, and there 
are many folds to manage. She agree that i dont have to make the train, it 
would never have ben used outdoor anyway. But shouldnt i try to convince her 
that it would be much easyer for her to manage the skirt, if i make a seam 
in the middle of the pannier. This way i dont have to make all the pleats, 
and much of the width will be much more easy to manage for her?
Wished she would have ordered an other type of dress, but she dreams about 
the courtdress.

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new danish court dress
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Status: RO

Hi,

I understand that you don't want to put much work in a dress you don't 
like to make.
But I don't think the pleats will make it more difficult for her to 
manage to walk in it.
Would the dress look as beautiful as the one you made without that much 
fabric?
I don't like red for a dress from that period either.
But if you can look at it as fantasy but historical inspired would that 
help?
People will still see the quality of your work.

I made a fantasy dress inspired by the 18th century on a verrrrrry busy 
gaming convention last Saturday.
The train became a little problem later on the day when it became 
extremely busy but I could still manage to walk trough all those people.
(The orange and creme dress)
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Fantasy/Chii/Chii&Freya2.jpg
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Fantasy/Chii/Chii&Freya2Back.jpg
A lot of people loved the dress

It is more a matter of adjusting the way you walk to the dress and the 
situation and remember that others won't be used to such dresses and 
will step on the skirts. Be alert to stop walking the moment you feel 
that someone is standing on your dress.

Greetings,
       Deredere


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Some years ago i made this danish court dress for a museum.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/mu7.htm
> The dress is a reconstruktion of the french court style used in mid 
> 1700 in Denmark.
> A young girl asked me to make another one for her, she want a red one.
> It is to be used at the mannor house, when the 1700 fair takes place. 
> All this is outdoor activities at the mannor house, both servants and 
> the aristocracy are supposed to mingle together, take strows in the 
> courtyard, in the park, and so on. Tradesmen stands in the courtyard, 
> selling different kinds of goods.
> I have some consern about this.
> First i hate red, but she insists on this, and after all she pays, so 
> i accept this. ( would have preferred a dusty rose or something pastel)
> Second i am conserned for her because she wil have difficulties 
> managing the big skirt. All the width of the pannier is pleated into 
> the waist, and there are many folds to manage. She agree that i dont 
> have to make the train, it would never have ben used outdoor anyway. 
> But shouldnt i try to convince her that it would be much easyer for 
> her to manage the skirt, if i make a seam in the middle of the 
> pannier. This way i dont have to make all the pleats, and much of the 
> width will be much more easy to manage for her?
> Wished she would have ordered an other type of dress, but she dreams 
> about the courtdress.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] new danish court dress
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Status: RO

Just curious as this is not a period of expertise for me, is the Fair
expecting her to be as accurate as possible in attire?
If so, was red worn and what shade of red, if worn?
Would the red have been worn outdoors or was it saved for specific attire
like a ballgown?
Were trains worn outdoors or only for formal occasions?
De

-----Original Message-----
Some years ago i made this danish court dress for a museum.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/mu7.htm
The dress is a reconstruktion of the french court style used in mid 1700 in
Denmark.
A young girl asked me to make another one for her, she want a red one.
It is to be used at the mannor house, when the 1700 fair takes place. All
this is outdoor activities at the mannor house, both servants and the
aristocracy are supposed to mingle together, take strows in the courtyard,
in the park, and so on. Tradesmen stands in the courtyard, selling different
kinds of goods.
I have some consern about this.
First i hate red, but she insists on this, and after all she pays, so i
accept this. ( would have preferred a dusty rose or something pastel)
Second i am conserned for her because she wil have difficulties managing the
big skirt. All the width of the pannier is pleated into the waist, and there
are many folds to manage. She agree that i dont have to make the train, it
would never have ben used outdoor anyway. But shouldnt i try to convince her
that it would be much easyer for her to manage the skirt, if i make a seam
in the middle of the pannier. This way i dont have to make all the pleats,
and much of the width will be much more easy to manage for her?
Wished she would have ordered an other type of dress, but she dreams about
the courtdress.

Bjarne


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Subject: [h-cost] pattern clearance continues
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Our Close-out Pattern Clearance sales continues, with great savings now at
50% discount. We still have stock in the following patterns lines:

*	Alter Years - Elizabethan, Ren Faire 
*	Attic Copies - Edwardian and Vintage 
*	Buckaroo Bobbins - Victorian, Wild West (collars pattern left) 
*	DL Designs - two vintage hat patterns left 
*	Eagle's View - Buckskinning 
*	Folkwear - Ethnic, Victorian, considerable stock left 
*	Heirloom - Victorian and Amish sytle bonnets, lots of copies left 
*	Mantua-Maker - Regency corset left 
*	Missouri River - buckskinning and native 
*	Northwest Traders - buckskinning and native 
*	Old World Enterprises - Victorian men's shirt left 
*	Past Patterns - Victorian, Edwardian and Vintage 
*	Patterns of History - Edwardian wedding gown left 
*	Pegee - Gone with the Wind and 18th century 
*	Period Impressions - 18th century, Victorian 
*	Reconstructing History - 1600s men's breeches left 
*	Rocking Horse Farm - 18th century, Victorian, Vintage 
*	Smoke and Fire - men's cap pattern left 

Pattern inventory on the website is current and updated several times a day.
There are also a few re-enactor supplies for both Norse and 18th century
periods.

 

With regards as always

Lorina and Gary Stephens

 

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 11:13:52 -0500
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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I saw it Friday morning and even though I'm usually a stickler for
historical accuracy, I could like it and appreciate it. As for the
music, both modern and 18th century music is used throughout.  I thought
the modern music mostly works where it is placed. This film doesn't
pretend to be historically accurate totally. I found it lots of fun, but
to get it all, you should know your history going in. 

The costumes are far more accurate, than say, the 1938 version of Marie
Antoinette or the 1922 silent Orphans of the Storm. Of course,
everything is filtered through "what is attractive now the year the film
was made" but the candy box colors for Versailles really works. Also we
get to see a little of what MA's life was like at the Petit Trianon,
which was Rousseau's vision of the rural pastoral, which I think, a film
hasn't shown before.

I just got "Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the
Revolution" if you prefer pure history and the movie book of "Marie
Antoinette", which is the script and pics from the film, not the "making
of the film Marie Antoinette"

Cindy Abel
 

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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 01:06:47 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new danish court dress
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Status: RO

Isn't it chilly up there this time of year? Is she not to wear any kind of  
outerwear? Just wondering.
 
There is something striking about the plainness...by which I mean the lack  
of applied decoration and components like a stomacher or open robe with a  
petticoat showing...about the design of the dress. I think outdoors in the  cool 
air it will be quite fetching in a shade of red as striking as the un-fussy  
design. Not a bright fire engine red, but a ruby or dark crimson would be rich  
and beautiful. Perhaps you can show her swatches of available fabrics [only 
show  her things you'd want to use!] Maybe even a Jacquard if a solid silk is 
just too  much. The shimmering pattern all in red could look amazing. Even in 
two  colors with red prominent could be suggested. Remember YOU are the 
designer, and  "know better". She should trust you....at least as much as you should 
please  her.
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 10:39:24 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

The 1938 film was on tv last night and I caught snippets of it in 
between sewing.  It was quite romantic and lovely, as are those old 
Hollywood flicks from that era.  How accurate is it in terms of 
history, not costuming?

Sylrog

On Oct 23, 2006, at 10:13 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:

>
> I saw it Friday morning and even though I'm usually a stickler for
> historical accuracy, I could like it and appreciate it. As for the
> music, both modern and 18th century music is used throughout.  I 
> thought
> the modern music mostly works where it is placed. This film doesn't
> pretend to be historically accurate totally. I found it lots of fun, 
> but
> to get it all, you should know your history going in.
>
> The costumes are far more accurate, than say, the 1938 version of Marie
> Antoinette or the 1922 silent Orphans of the Storm. Of course,
> everything is filtered through "what is attractive now the year the 
> film
> was made" but the candy box colors for Versailles really works. Also we
> get to see a little of what MA's life was like at the Petit Trianon,
> which was Rousseau's vision of the rural pastoral, which I think, a 
> film
> hasn't shown before.
>
> I just got "Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the
> Revolution" if you prefer pure history and the movie book of "Marie
> Antoinette", which is the script and pics from the film, not the 
> "making
> of the film Marie Antoinette"
>
> Cindy Abel
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Status: RO

Sorry this is so late but just received this from a friend --

about the event - it was a celebration of frst record in ristorical
dokuments about Hradec Kralove - 781 years. Hradec Kralove is a town in
Czech rep., and the name of celebration was: "Hradec Kralove in the
mirror of centuries alias celebration of Queen Elisabeth" (Elisabeth I
of Bohemia (born 20 January 1292, died 28 September 1330) was Queen of
Bohemia, daughter of King Wenceslaus II, wife of John of Luxembourg (who
became King of Bohemia in her name), and mother of King of Bohemia and
Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV.)

 
Kate
609-570-3584




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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new danish court dress
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 20:29:39 +0200
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Hi  Cynthia,
Yes it is getting chilly here now, but the dress is not going to be used in 
wintertime. The fair takes place in june, so its fine.
I did send her some suggestions of reds i would like, but i am afraid she 
want a real red, like christmas red :-(.
But we have not desided to buy silk yeat, i am going to make a cotton model 
first, and maybe on its way, and when she gets here to fit, ill talk her 
into some more 18th century reds. I think that this solid red, only was used 
for uniforms and hunting costumes?
Maybe i could persuade her to go and watch Marie Antoinette next month, to 
get a feeling of the collours. It opens here nov. 17th. What a brilliant 
idea! I could go with her........... tata tata.........

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 7:06 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new danish court dress


> Isn't it chilly up there this time of year? Is she not to wear any kind of
> outerwear? Just wondering.
>
> There is something striking about the plainness...by which I mean the lack
> of applied decoration and components like a stomacher or open robe with a
> petticoat showing...about the design of the dress. I think outdoors in the 
> cool
> air it will be quite fetching in a shade of red as striking as the 
> un-fussy
> design. Not a bright fire engine red, but a ruby or dark crimson would be 
> rich
> and beautiful. Perhaps you can show her swatches of available fabrics 
> [only
> show  her things you'd want to use!] Maybe even a Jacquard if a solid silk 
> is
> just too  much. The shimmering pattern all in red could look amazing. Even 
> in
> two  colors with red prominent could be suggested. Remember YOU are the
> designer, and  "know better". She should trust you....at least as much as 
> you should
> please  her.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 12:37:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Pants tayloring question ...
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On a Lady, if the front of the pants buckle as if there was a
'package' there but there is not cause it is a lady ... how do you
fix that? Is it a hip fitting problem? Is it a waist to crotch
length problem?

Help ...
Chiara

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Event query
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:04:49 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks very much, Kate! I come from a town in New Jersey that  
celebrated its 300th birthday in 1963. We thought it was a big deal,  
but the towns of Europe certainly dwarf that.
Come to think of it, what a nice celebration we could have had if we  
had staged an event in the clothing styles of 1663. I wish period  
reenacting had been a "thing" back then....
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
(original poster of query)

On Oct 23, 2006, at 10:09 AM, Kate Pinner wrote:

> Sorry this is so late but just received this from a friend --
>
> about the event - it was a celebration of frst record in ristorical
> dokuments about Hradec Kralove - 781 years. Hradec Kralove is a  
> town in
> Czech rep., and the name of celebration was: "Hradec Kralove in the
> mirror of centuries alias celebration of Queen Elisabeth" (Elisabeth I
> of Bohemia (born 20 January 1292, died 28 September 1330) was Queen of
> Bohemia, daughter of King Wenceslaus II, wife of John of Luxembourg  
> (who
> became King of Bohemia in her name), and mother of King of Bohemia and
> Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV.)
>
>
> Kate
> 609-570-3584
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 19:52:42 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new danish court dress
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At 19:29 23/10/2006, you wrote:
>Hi  Cynthia,
>Yes it is getting chilly here now, but the dress is not going to be 
>used in wintertime. The fair takes place in june, so its fine.
>I did send her some suggestions of reds i would like, but i am 
>afraid she want a real red, like christmas red :-(.
>But we have not desided to buy silk yeat, i am going to make a 
>cotton model first, and maybe on its way, and when she gets here to 
>fit, ill talk her into some more 18th century reds. I think that 
>this solid red, only was used for uniforms and hunting costumes?
>Maybe i could persuade her to go and watch Marie Antoinette next 
>month, to get a feeling of the collours. It opens here nov. 17th. 
>What a brilliant idea! I could go with her........... tata tata.........
>
>Bjarne

There were plain reds Bjarne. Hogarth painted at least one lady at a 
wedding I believe - can't lay my hands on the book right now. And one 
of the Queens (Marie Leczinskia?) had herself painted in red velvet 
with a knotting shuttle?

Suzi 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new danish court dress
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 21:20:10 +0200
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Hi
There is a portrait with prinsesse Adelaide i think, a sister to Louis XV 
wearing a red courtdress, its more like burgundy, and it has embroidered 
stars on it. Mauritia made a copy of this courtdress.
But when it comes to Denmark its another story, because i have seen many 
portraits of danish nobility ladies wearing the french courtstyle, but they 
only wear it in grey or off white.
About it was used to have a train outdoors, i really dont know, but i know 
that her train would be very messy very very quickly. But its no problem as 
she realise this, so we have given up the train.
My guess of the courtdress use, would be only at court, and only indoors. 
Mostly used when the royalty is pressent. Why so many portraits of ladies 
wearing this style? My guess is that it would have ben their finest dress 
and therefore often seen in portraits, because they want to show that they 
were allowed to be pressent at court.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 12:42 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] new danish court dress


> Just curious as this is not a period of expertise for me, is the Fair
> expecting her to be as accurate as possible in attire?
> If so, was red worn and what shade of red, if worn?
> Would the red have been worn outdoors or was it saved for specific attire
> like a ballgown?
> Were trains worn outdoors or only for formal occasions?
> De


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pants tayloring question ...
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 19:14:24 -0300
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It's a waist to crotch length problem, if you sit the trousers where you 
want them to sit in the crotch, then mark a new waistline, moving the 
waistband down, you'll fix that problem.

It's one of those looks that seems popular today, but because of my 
training, drives me crazy!

Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 2:37 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Pants tayloring question ...


> On a Lady, if the front of the pants buckle as if there was a
> 'package' there but there is not cause it is a lady ... how do you
> fix that? Is it a hip fitting problem? Is it a waist to crotch
> length problem?
>
> Help ...
> Chiara
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pants tayloring question ...
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Drives me bananas!! I hate it when I get the perfect pair done and then that 
pop's up. Sigh. Fixing as we email ...

Thank you so much! :)

Chiara


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pants tayloring question ...


> It's a waist to crotch length problem, if you sit the trousers where you 
> want them to sit in the crotch, then mark a new waistline, moving the 
> waistband down, you'll fix that problem.
>
> It's one of those looks that seems popular today, but because of my 
> training, drives me crazy!
>
> Kelly
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 2:37 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Pants tayloring question ...
>
>
>> On a Lady, if the front of the pants buckle as if there was a
>> 'package' there but there is not cause it is a lady ... how do you
>> fix that? Is it a hip fitting problem? Is it a waist to crotch
>> length problem?
>>
>> Help ...
>> Chiara
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] new danish court dress
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 17:45:14 -0500
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http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:William_Hogarth_035.jpg

I have only been able to find to portraits of Marie Leczinska, Queen of
France. neither one is red.
Though this one does have red flowers on it.
http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=13.031
http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/image.asp?id=27417

Marie Antoinette,
Redingcote?
http://www.batguano.com/VLBmarie85.jpg
Red dresses
http://www.batguano.com/VLBmarieDIA.jpg
http://www.batguano.com/VLB13.jpg

not red but lavendar, just like the dress and color :)
http://www.ladyreading.net/marieantoinette/big/marie124.jpg

De

-----Original Message-----
There were plain reds Bjarne. Hogarth painted at least one lady at a
wedding I believe - can't lay my hands on the book right now. And one
of the Queens (Marie Leczinskia?) had herself painted in red velvet
with a knotting shuttle?

Suzi


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From: SPaterson <sjpaterson@tru.eastlink.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pants tayloring question ...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Well let me make it clear - if the extra fabric is above the crotch or along 
the hipline or above then it would be a too-long-waist situation and 
shortening the 'rise' would be in order.
If the excess fabric is below the hip in the crotch area as where a man 
might 'dress' (left or right) that would be a too open a leg and you would 
need to take in the crotch seam possibly only in the front (and lengthen the 
trousers to compensate the raising of the trouser) to remove the excess. If 
this excess is only on one side like a man - take in the offending side 
only.

One opinion

Sarah Paterson
----- Original Message ----- 

> On a Lady, if the front of the pants buckle as if there was a
> 'package' there but there is not cause it is a lady ... how do you
> fix that? Is it a hip fitting problem? Is it a waist to crotch
> length problem?
>
> Help ...
> Chiara
>
> _______________________________________________
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After have a real good look at these two dresses I come to figure out that
they are the same dress.
De

-----Original Message-----
Marie Antoinette,
Red dresses
http://www.batguano.com/VLBmarieDIA.jpg
http://www.batguano.com/VLB13.jpg



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Red dress  RE: new danish court dress
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The sleeves are different. Could one be a "remake" of the other?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 8:37 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Red dress RE: new danish court dress


After have a real good look at these two dresses I come to figure out that
they are the same dress.
De

-----Original Message-----
Marie Antoinette,
Red dresses
http://www.batguano.com/VLBmarieDIA.jpg
http://www.batguano.com/VLB13.jpg



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In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:06:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

How  accurate is it in terms of 
history, not  costuming?




********************
Speaking, rather than not, of the costumes....
Well, Adrian did them so as far as costumes go, they are spectacular, if  not 
accurate. He apparently used as much real 18th century lace as he could  get 
his hands on. If I remember rightly, Norma Shearer wears a number of  real 
diamonds in her hair, and they had to build a replica of the ballroom at  
Versailles...only BIGGER to accommodate the huge panniers. That's right,  
bigger....than Versailles.... well, it is Hollywood.
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Red dress  RE: new danish court dress
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 01:08:07 -0500
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Perhaps the family portrait is the earlier version of the dress as the
singular portrait looks to be closer to a Pre-Empire transition dress. Or
the latter picture is a post mortum painting.
De

-----Original Message-----
The sleeves are different. Could one be a "remake" of the other?

-----Original Message-----
After have a real good look at these two dresses I come to figure out that
they are the same dress.
De

-----Original Message-----
Marie Antoinette,
Red dresses
http://www.batguano.com/VLBmarieDIA.jpg
http://www.batguano.com/VLB13.jpg



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pants tayloring question ...
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A difficult one to respond to without more precise information however, if the 
package referred to is the male package, the following may help...

Take a little out above the fork of the trousers.

Female hip/seat measurements are generally wider than male ones so there may be 
some extention needed there (often, you can split the centre-back and create a 
little more there but not much.

Hope this helps,

-C.


> On a Lady, if the front of the pants buckle as if there was a
> 'package' there but there is not cause it is a lady ... how do you
> fix that? Is it a hip fitting problem? Is it a waist to crotch
> length problem?



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Subject: [h-cost] Help with a term
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Dear List,
I'm seeking help with the use of the term "mittens" as it refers to late  
eighteenth century men.  I know that what we call "mitts"--the fingerless  gloves 
for women, were also called "mittens."  But what about for  men?  Does the 
term refer to a fingerless glove, or what we today think of  as mittens--that 
is, a hand covering with no separations for fingers?  They  are listed in some 
inventories, and seem to be knitted wool.
 
I would appreciate any insight.
 
Thanks.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 685
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It's possible the could have been either, but I'd be tempted to think of them 
more as gloves with no separation for the fingers (or with only one, so you 
effectively have three fingers).  


In a message dated 10/24/06 11:36:38 AM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Dear List,
> I'm seeking help with the use of the term "mittens" as it refers to late  
> eighteenth century men.  I know that what we call "mitts"--the fingerless  
> gloves 
> for women, were also called "mittens."  But what about for  men?  Does the 
> term refer to a fingerless glove, or what we today think of  as 
> mittens--that 
> is, a hand covering with no separations for fingers?  They  are listed in 
> some 
> inventories, and seem to be knitted wool.
> 
> I would appreciate any insight.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Ann Wass

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Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 09:23:11 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pants tayloring question ...
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you but the other suggestion offered up actually work out
well. No more extra fold in front, lays flat when I sit. :)

But thank you for your response, I never knew that this area was
referred to as the 'fork' of the trousers. What is the history on
the term?

Chiara

On Tue, October 24, 2006 1:55 am, stilskin@netspace.net.au said:
> A difficult one to respond to without more precise information
> however, if the
> package referred to is the male package, the following may help...
>
> Take a little out above the fork of the trousers.
>
> Female hip/seat measurements are generally wider than male ones so
> there may be
> some extention needed there (often, you can split the centre-back
> and create a
> little more there but not much.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> -C.
>
>
>> On a Lady, if the front of the pants buckle as if there was a
>> 'package' there but there is not cause it is a lady ... how do you
>> fix that? Is it a hip fitting problem? Is it a waist to crotch
>> length problem?
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This email was sent from Netspace Webmail:
> http://www.netspace.net.au
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new danish court dress
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 10/23/2006 6:45:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

Marie  Antoinette,
Redingcote?
http://www.batguano.com/VLBmarie85.jpg
Red  dresses
http://www.batguano.com/VLBmarieDIA.jpg
http://www.batguano.com/VLB13.jpg




*******************
Notice how heavy the red fabrics are and the decided lack of flowers as  
decoration, not to mention the use of fur to trim things out instead. I think  red 
is perhaps considered mainly a winter color.
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new danish court dress
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2006 00:24:33 +0200
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Hi,
Here is a link to Mauritias website, where she shows a red courtdress she 
made after a portrait of Adelaide:
http://www.mauritia.de/en/rococo/adelaide.html
I suggested my customer, a red like this, but she thoaght it was two brown 
reddish.
I like this collour, but i am excited what she ends up with.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:07 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new danish court dress


>
> In a message dated 10/23/2006 6:45:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> otsisto@socket.net writes:
>
> Marie  Antoinette,
> Redingcote?
> http://www.batguano.com/VLBmarie85.jpg
> Red  dresses
> http://www.batguano.com/VLBmarieDIA.jpg
> http://www.batguano.com/VLB13.jpg
>
>
>
>
> *******************
> Notice how heavy the red fabrics are and the decided lack of flowers as
> decoration, not to mention the use of fur to trim things out instead. I 
> think  red
> is perhaps considered mainly a winter color.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 09:47:49 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with a term
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
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I would have to look at a few books when I get home tonight but I
believe the first textual reference to a man's (specifically) hand
covering was Handschuh, a german term. Not at the same time but
later was Eausthandschuh for mitten.

I have to look it up but I believe that farmers used a hand covering
that was basically three fingers and those were termed mits. These
later became the armoured mit used by Pole Arm fighters in the wars.
You can see illuminations of fighters with these on as they fight
with Pole Arms.

Marc Carlson has a webpage that talks about these:
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/gloves/gloves.htm

According to The Complete Encyclopedia of Arms & Weapons ed. Leonid
Tarassuk and Claude Blair: Under "Gauntlets"
Plate gauntlets replaced chain mail gauntlets worn over leather
gloves. "In fact the oldest type of plate gauntlet on record, dating
to the early 14th century, replaced the mail glove and was similar
to the wide-cuffed leather gauntlet worn today by motorcyclists. It,
too, was made of leather but covered with small riveted lames." The
book goes on to discuss early 15th century articulated finger
gauntlets, then the fact that mitten gauntlets became popular from
early 15th to the first half of the 16th. They were always worn with
a leather glove." An important variation to emerge during the third
quarter of the 15th century was the gauntlet with a particularly
long pointed cuff.

However today mit is in reference to an kitchen hand protection or a
baseball hand covering.

Do not take this a difinitive truth. I am only pulling from a vague
set of facts from memory here. With the exception of the quote on
armoured gauntlets, that is from my book links on my glove website.

Does that help any? Go ahead and google the german term for it for
futher reading, if you can read german it is a plus. :)

Chiara


On Tue, October 24, 2006 5:34 am, AnnBWass@aol.com said:
> Dear List,
> I'm seeking help with the use of the term "mittens" as it refers to
> late
> eighteenth century men.  I know that what we call "mitts"--the
> fingerless  gloves
> for women, were also called "mittens."  But what about for  men?
> Does the
> term refer to a fingerless glove, or what we today think of  as
> mittens--that
> is, a hand covering with no separations for fingers?  They  are
> listed in some
> inventories, and seem to be knitted wool.
>
> I would appreciate any insight.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Oct 24 23:58:37 2006
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] new danish court dress
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 22:58:09 -0500
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This is English
http://www.mauritia.de/de/rokoko/maryedwards.html

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi,
Here is a link to Mauritias website, where she shows a red courtdress she 
made after a portrait of Adelaide:
http://www.mauritia.de/en/rococo/adelaide.html
I suggested my customer, a red like this, but she thoaght it was two brown 
reddish.
I like this collour, but i am excited what she ends up with.

Bjarne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new danish court dress
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In a message dated 10/25/2006 5:10:24 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

Isn't it  chilly up there this time of year? Is she not to wear any kind of   
outerwear? Just wondering.




*****************
 
Nice of this post to show up...two days after I posted  it....
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Subject: [h-cost] Parasol Frame
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Hi.  I've been gone awhile and missed the rest of the info on the parasol frame.  Did anyone ever find out where to get them other than ebay?  
   
  Thanks,
  Lady Von


  Lady Von
   
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 		
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with a term
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2006 13:34:53 -0400
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I know the OED may not be very technical when it comes to garment  
details, but supporting/illustrative quotations for Definition 1-- "a  
covering for the hand, differing from a glove in having no divisions  
for the fingers, but provided with a separate receptacle for the  
thumb; worn either for warmth, or (e.g. by hedgers and other workmen)  
to protect the hand from injury or pain in handling something"--go  
back to Chaucer ("He that his hand wol putte in this Mitayn He shal  
haue multipliyng of his grayn"--Pardoner's Prologue, ca. 1386) and  
include Middleton in 1742 ("a large Pair of Beaver Mittings...which  
reach up as high as our Elbows") and Sir Walter Scott in 1818, Heart  
of the Midlothian ("hastily and confusedly searching for his worsted  
mittens and staff"). Most of the examples in between refer to  
"mittens" without any mention of the material of which they're made;  
two besides the Middleton mention "furred" mittens.

Unfortunately for your question, Definition 2 is "a sort of glove of  
lace or knitted work covering the forearm, wrist, and part of the  
hand, but not extending over the fingers; much worn by women at the  
beginning of the nineteenth century ...Now more commonly "mitt." This  
definition appears (without the "much worn by women," of course) in  
Johnson's Dictionary of 1755. Possibly useful to you is the fact that  
all the other quotations are references to "her" mittens, either silk  
or worsted, although that doesn't mean the OED editors didn't omit  
some example where the mittens were worn by a male....Their purpose  
was to define the word, not help us costumers and specialists....

Is this any help?

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Oct 24, 2006, at 6:34 AM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> Dear List,
> I'm seeking help with the use of the term "mittens" as it refers to  
> late
> eighteenth century men.  I know that what we call "mitts"--the  
> fingerless  gloves
> for women, were also called "mittens."  But what about for  men?   
> Does the
> term refer to a fingerless glove, or what we today think of  as  
> mittens--that
> is, a hand covering with no separations for fingers?  They  are  
> listed in some
> inventories, and seem to be knitted wool.
>
> I would appreciate any insight.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with a term
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In a message dated 10/25/2006 1:37:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ruthanneb@mindspring.com writes:

Is this  any help?



I didn't want to leap to the conclusion that "men wore knitted wool  mittens" 
without some kind of back up, but I think I'll accept the OED's 1st  
citation, along with pictured/extant examples, as good enough in this  case.
 
Thanks to all who responded.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] new danish court dress
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He said the event was to be in June, during the "warmer" months.
De

-----Original Message-----
Isn't it  chilly up there this time of year? Is she not to wear any kind of
outerwear? Just wondering.


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Perhaps you can ask these people
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/ladies_victorian_parasols.php

http://tinyurl.com/y465yf

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi.  I've been gone awhile and missed the rest of the info on the parasol
frame.  Did anyone ever find out where to get them other than ebay?

  Thanks,
  Lady Von



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Subject: [h-cost] 1690s hunting gown
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Hi guys. I'm in the planning stages of a 1690s hunting gown, and I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out the sleeves. 
 
In this engraving: http://www.kipar.org/period-galleries/engravings/1690/1690f1.jpg , what is the purpose of the tasseled ribbon tied around her wrist?  And isn't her Steinkirk backwards?
 
I've been trying to figure out the cuffs on this one: http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1690_1.shtml . I think what I'm seeing is a big dog-eared cuff that belongs to the overcoat, a flat, notched cuff that belongs to the waistcoat, and a big puffy chemise sleeve with one ruffle. The chemise goes almost to the wrist, but the other two sleeves go just past the elbow. Is this correct, or are the two outer sleeves pushed up? And is the ruffle on the chemise made of the same fabric as the chemise, or would it be wide lace? 
 
None of the pictures I've found confirm that gloves would be worn with this outfit, but surely you wore gloves to go hunting? I found these pictures: http://tinyurl.com/ygo7lr and: http://tinyurl.com/ync28z of extant gloves, but are these women's gloves? Would either pair go with a hunting gown? 
 
Thanks for your help!
Tea Rose
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I am searching for a source of laquered bamboo for making Japanese
fans.

I have the washi paper (you all should see it! Peacocks set in
24k!!) and either need to make my own laquered bamboo or purchase
it.

Any help would be appreciated. Yes, I googled ... still need
references of places though. I may have missed a search query type
or two. :)

Chiara

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Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2006 20:38:04 -0300
From: SPaterson <sjpaterson@tru.eastlink.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1690s hunting gown
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Well my guess is that the tasseled ribbon is a fancy lanyard on her walking 
stick/riding crop.
I am not convinced the sleeves are fore-shortened in cut but I am not a late 
17thc re-enactor - but the chemise ruffles could be either lace or fabric - 
I have seen both and I think it speaks to wealth and status.

Sarah Paterson

----- Original Message ----- 

> Hi guys. I'm in the planning stages of a 1690s hunting gown, and I was 
> wondering if anyone could help me figure out the sleeves.
>
> In this engraving: 
> http://www.kipar.org/period-galleries/engravings/1690/1690f1.jpg , what is 
> the purpose of the tasseled ribbon tied around her wrist?  And isn't her 
> Steinkirk backwards?
>
> I've been trying to figure out the cuffs on this one: 
> http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1690_1.shtml . I think what I'm seeing 
> is a big dog-eared cuff that belongs to the overcoat, a flat, notched cuff 
> that belongs to the waistcoat, and a big puffy chemise sleeve with one 
> ruffle. The chemise goes almost to the wrist, but the other two sleeves go 
> just past the elbow. Is this correct, or are the two outer sleeves pushed 
> up? And is the ruffle on the chemise made of the same fabric as the 
> chemise, or would it be wide lace?
>
> None of the pictures I've found confirm that gloves would be worn with 
> this outfit, but surely you wore gloves to go hunting? I found these 
> pictures: http://tinyurl.com/ygo7lr and: http://tinyurl.com/ync28z of 
> extant gloves, but are these women's gloves? Would either pair go with a 
> hunting gown?
>
> Thanks for your help!
> Tea Rose
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1690s hunting gown
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2006 19:07:17 -0400
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On Oct 25, 2006, at 6:49 PM, tearoses@aol.com wrote:

> In this engraving: 
> http://www.kipar.org/period-galleries/engravings/1690/1690f1.jpg , 
> what is the purpose of the tasseled ribbon tied around her wrist?

If Hunting means riding a horse to hunt, then this tassle is from the 
riding crop.  Keeps you from dropping it and having to get off the 
horse to pick it up. Or having your Groom get it for you.

Susan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new danish court dress
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In a message dated 10/25/2006 4:37:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

He said  the event was to be in June, during the "warmer"  months.
De

-----Original Message-----
Isn't it  chilly up  there this time of year? Is she not to wear any kind of
outerwear? Just  wondering.




****************
 
I know! But when I hit the "send" button to my post, he had not mentioned  
the time of the event. He did however in the 2 FRIGGIN' DAYS it took for my post 
 to show up.
 
Why did it spend 2 days lost in cyber-space?
 
Anyway, I hope he can get his client to chose a yummy red...like rich  
ruby...and something like a Jacquard. The expanse of skirt looks great with a  
pattern, and a one color pattern like a Jacquard would be sumptuous.
 
It'll be drop dead gorgeous no matter what the fabric turns out to be,  
doncha think? After all, it is Bjarne....
 
Remember the film "Queen Margo"? I don't like it much but the gowns  
[practically all of them] were unadorned but made of jacquards and brocades and  the 
look [a different period, it's true] was striking in that is was kinda  modern 
but still period. Alas, every dress was identical, just in a  different 
fabric. All the sleeves were the same....in a period about sleeves! So  overall the 
costumes suck. But taken individually, the gowns with tight boned  bodices and 
full skirts all of one patterned fabric had a striking  effect.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1690s hunting gown
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In a message dated 10/25/2006 6:51:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tearoses@aol.com writes:

In this  engraving: 
http://www.kipar.org/period-galleries/engravings/1690/1690f1.jpg ,  what is the purpose of the tasseled ribbon tied around her wrist?  
And  isn't her Steinkirk backwards?
 
The ribbon with the tassel is a loop on the walking stick. And the coat  
would close like a man's, left over right so maybe the Steinkirk is not  
backwards. 



I've been trying to figure out the cuffs on this one:  
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1690_1.shtml . I think what I'm seeing is  a big dog-eared cuff 
that belongs to the overcoat, a flat, notched cuff that  belongs to the 
waistcoat, and a big puffy chemise sleeve with one ruffle. The  chemise goes almost 
to the wrist, but the other two sleeves go just past the  elbow. Is this 
correct, or are the two outer sleeves pushed up? And is the  ruffle on the chemise 
made of the same fabric as the chemise, or would it be  wide lace? 
 
You are correct. In men's clothes it's just the same, with the sleeve long  
enough [or a little longer] to reach the wrist if the cuff is NOT turned up.  
Therefore you get a short-ish sleeve when you actually turn up the cuff.  
Waistcoat cuffs often show  peaking out underneath, or even sometimes  turned up 
over the coat cuff. 
For real hunting I think I'd make the ruffle on the chemise the same fabric  
as the shirt. This style is of course in imitation of male costume, and may 
have  been made by a tailor rather than a seamstress. For that reason I like the 
idea  of the chemise really just being a shirt.



None of the pictures I've found confirm that gloves would be  worn with this 
outfit,
 
If you look closely at the second illustration you posted, you'll see she  is 
wearing gloves. You can see the seam of the thumb piece.

 
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1690s hunting gown
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2006 16:23:15 -0700
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Status: RO

I think the tassel is actually a handle for her riding crop. Modern crops
still have them, just not so fancy.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of tearoses@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 3:49 PM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1690s hunting gown


Hi guys. I'm in the planning stages of a 1690s hunting gown, and I was
wondering if anyone could help me figure out the sleeves. 
 
In this engraving:
http://www.kipar.org/period-galleries/engravings/1690/1690f1.jpg , what is
the purpose of the tasseled ribbon tied around her wrist?  And isn't her
Steinkirk backwards?
 
I've been trying to figure out the cuffs on this one:
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1690_1.shtml . I think what I'm seeing
is a big dog-eared cuff that belongs to the overcoat, a flat, notched cuff
that belongs to the waistcoat, and a big puffy chemise sleeve with one
ruffle. The chemise goes almost to the wrist, but the other two sleeves go
just past the elbow. Is this correct, or are the two outer sleeves pushed
up? And is the ruffle on the chemise made of the same fabric as the chemise,
or would it be wide lace? 
 
None of the pictures I've found confirm that gloves would be worn with this
outfit, but surely you wore gloves to go hunting? I found these pictures:
http://tinyurl.com/ygo7lr and: http://tinyurl.com/ync28z of extant gloves,
but are these women's gloves? Would either pair go with a hunting gown? 
 
Thanks for your help!
Tea Rose
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1690s hunting gown
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2006 21:40:03 -0500
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She has gloves on. Note the seam around the thumb.

De

-----Original Message-----
I've been trying to figure out the cuffs on this one:
http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1690_1.shtml . I think what I'm seeing
is a big dog-eared cuff that belongs to the overcoat, a flat, notched cuff
that belongs to the waistcoat, and a big puffy chemise sleeve with one
ruffle. The chemise goes almost to the wrist, but the other two sleeves go
just past the elbow. Is this correct, or are the two outer sleeves pushed
up? And is the ruffle on the chemise made of the same fabric as the chemise,
or would it be wide lace?

None of the pictures I've found confirm that gloves would be worn with this
outfit, but surely you wore gloves to go hunting? I found these pictures:
http://tinyurl.com/ygo7lr and: http://tinyurl.com/ync28z of extant gloves,
but are these women's gloves? Would either pair go with a hunting gown?

Thanks for your help!
Tea Rose


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Oct 25 23:26:09 2006
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] new danish court dress
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My concern would be her skin tone. The wrong red with pale skin might make
her look like a bride of Dracula which I don't think that is the look she is
wanting. This will also be a summer month so a medium to pastel color would
be more in tune with the day atmosphere (evening is another thing).
The question is when "dream" is used with this dress, is it a "I have always
fancied this dress but in a shade of red" or "I had a dream that I was
wearing this dress but in the color of red".
My NA side tells me that if the former then one should try to negotiate. If
the latter, there is no negotiation, the dress needs to be red and as close
of a shade of red that was in the dream.

As for the delays in post, have you appeased your cyber-gods lately? :)
Actually from time to time it happens with just about everyone. I had a post
delayed 10 days once.

DE

-----Original Message-----
***************

I know! But when I hit the "send" button to my post, he had not mentioned
the time of the event. He did however in the 2 FRIGGIN' DAYS it took for my
post
 to show up.

Why did it spend 2 days lost in cyber-space?

Anyway, I hope he can get his client to chose a yummy red...like rich
ruby...and something like a Jacquard. The expanse of skirt looks great with
a
pattern, and a one color pattern like a Jacquard would be sumptuous.

It'll be drop dead gorgeous no matter what the fabric turns out to be,
doncha think? After all, it is Bjarne....

Remember the film "Queen Margo"? I don't like it much but the gowns
[practically all of them] were unadorned but made of jacquards and brocades
and  the
look [a different period, it's true] was striking in that is was kinda
modern
but still period. Alas, every dress was identical, just in a  different
fabric. All the sleeves were the same....in a period about sleeves! So
overall the
costumes suck. But taken individually, the gowns with tight boned  bodices
and
full skirts all of one patterned fabric had a striking  effect.


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 	In the past I've thrown many of my white silk garments into the 
washing machine on the gentle cycle with regular laundry detergent and 
they've been fine.  I recently used a different brand and when the blouses 
and sweaters came out of the machine they were a pale greenish-blue!  The 
other clothes weren't affected so I'm thinking it's some chemical reaction 
between the protein fibers and something in the detergent...although I've 
washed white wool in this detergent and not had a problem.

 	Does anyone know what ingredient it might be so I can avoid it and 
more importantly, what I can do to un-color it?  I know bleach is NOT the 
answer.

thanks,
lisa
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] discolored silk
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 00:24:56 -0500
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What product did you use?
De

-----Original Message-----
 	In the past I've thrown many of my white silk garments into the washing
machine on the gentle cycle with regular laundry detergent and they've been
fine.  I recently used a different brand and when the blouses
and sweaters came out of the machine they were a pale greenish-blue!  The
other clothes weren't affected so I'm thinking it's some chemical reaction
between the protein fibers and something in the detergent...although I've
washed white wool in this detergent and not had a problem.

 	Does anyone know what ingredient it might be so I can avoid it and
more importantly, what I can do to un-color it?  I know bleach is NOT the
answer.

thanks,
lisa
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1690s hunting gown
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At 23:49 25/10/2006, you wrote:
>Hi guys. I'm in the planning stages of a 1690s hunting gown, and I 
>was wondering if anyone could help me figure out the sleeves.
>
>In this engraving: 
>http://www.kipar.org/period-galleries/engravings/1690/1690f1.jpg , 
>what is the purpose of the tasseled ribbon tied around her 
>wrist?  And isn't her Steinkirk backwards?

I think I read somewhere that engravings can be reversed, which would 
explain the Steinkirk.

>I've been trying to figure out the cuffs on this one: 
>http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/pics/1690_1.shtml . I think what I'm 
>seeing is a big dog-eared cuff that belongs to the overcoat, a flat, 
>notched cuff that belongs to the waistcoat, and a big puffy chemise 
>sleeve with one ruffle. The chemise goes almost to the wrist, but 
>the other two sleeves go just past the elbow. Is this correct, or 
>are the two outer sleeves pushed up? And is the ruffle on the 
>chemise made of the same fabric as the chemise, or would it be wide lace?
>
>None of the pictures I've found confirm that gloves would be worn 
>with this outfit, but surely you wore gloves to go hunting? I found 
>these pictures: http://tinyurl.com/ygo7lr and: 
>http://tinyurl.com/ync28z of extant gloves, but are these women's 
>gloves? Would either pair go with a hunting gown?

I suspect the gloves may be too fancy for wearing as riding gloves, 
but I could be wrong.

>
>Thanks for your help!
>Tea Rose
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 00:09:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laquered bamboo for fans
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Have you tried any local Asian stores in your area? They might know of a source or two.
   
  And whenever you complete your fan, do share photos with us.
   
  Kimiko
  

Chiara Francesca <chiara@io.com> wrote:
  I am searching for a source of laquered bamboo for making Japanese
fans.

I have the washi paper (you all should see it! Peacocks set in
24k!!) and either need to make my own laquered bamboo or purchase
it.

Any help would be appreciated. Yes, I googled ... still need
references of places though. I may have missed a search query type
or two. :)

Chiara

 		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] discolored silk
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Is the laundry soap liquid?  Most laundry liquids seem to contain a lot of 
dye -- they are often very dark blue or blue/green. That would be my first 
suspect.

If it's powdered, are their little colored bits in the powder? I think they 
add a certain amount of ingredient in both liquids and powders that act like 
blueing.

I'm only familiar the treatment for over-blueing living things (horses/dogs) 
and it's just to keep washing and washing and/or let it fade over time. Not 
sure what you would do if you over-blued a silk garment. I'd try re-washing 
with something completely colorless.

Denise B
Iowa 

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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 12:07:02 -0400
From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laquered bamboo for fans
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Chiara,
We would love it if you'd share the method of putting them together, as
well as your paper, bamboo, and findings sources.  I may have to do this
in the very near future myself.  And it's something I'd just like to
know as well.

Thanks,
Kathy Hoover


>>> "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com> 10/25/06 11:29 AM >>>
I am searching for a source of laquered bamboo for making Japanese
fans.

I have the washi paper (you all should see it! Peacocks set in
24k!!) and either need to make my own laquered bamboo or purchase
it.

Any help would be appreciated. Yes, I googled ... still need
references of places though. I may have missed a search query type
or two. :)

Chiara

_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 11:25:28 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laquered bamboo for fans
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Sounds like a plan! :)

I will post urls of the work once I get started in earnest.

Documentation will not be very long but I will do extra research as
time allows. :)

Chiara

On Thu, October 26, 2006 11:07 am, Kathy Hoover said:
> Chiara,
> We would love it if you'd share the method of putting them together,
> as
> well as your paper, bamboo, and findings sources.  I may have to do
> this
> in the very near future myself.  And it's something I'd just like to
> know as well.
>
> Thanks,
> Kathy Hoover
>
>
>>>> "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com> 10/25/06 11:29 AM >>>
> I am searching for a source of laquered bamboo for making Japanese
> fans.
>
> I have the washi paper (you all should see it! Peacocks set in
> 24k!!) and either need to make my own laquered bamboo or purchase
> it.
>
> Any help would be appreciated. Yes, I googled ... still need
> references of places though. I may have missed a search query type
> or two. :)
>
> Chiara
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 23:24:50 +0100
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re: [h-cost] Laquered bamboo for fans
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If you have a very steady hand, a thin blade or perhaps a scroll saw,
get matching laquered chopsticks from a Japanese shop. Slice longways.
The rough side will be glue to your paper fan.  Or unmake a japanese
tourist's fan, by picking off the cheap paper & substituting your
gilded peacocks.  It's not clear to me whether you're making a paddle
type fan or the folding sort.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Subject: [h-cost] Laquered bamboo for fans
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <25281.65.117.156.5.1161790183.squirrel@webmail.io.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1

I am searching for a source of laquered bamboo for making Japanese
fans.

I have the washi paper (you all should see it! Peacocks set in
24k!!) and either need to make my own laquered bamboo or purchase
it.

Any help would be appreciated. Yes, I googled ... still need
references of places though. I may have missed a search query type
or two. :)

Chiara
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laquered bamboo for fans
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I am making a Sensu (Folding fan). I want to make it a folding fan with 35 
ribs.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 5:24 PM
Subject: re: [h-cost] Laquered bamboo for fans


> If you have a very steady hand, a thin blade or perhaps a scroll saw,
> get matching laquered chopsticks from a Japanese shop. Slice longways.
> The rough side will be glue to your paper fan.  Or unmake a japanese
> tourist's fan, by picking off the cheap paper & substituting your
> gilded peacocks.  It's not clear to me whether you're making a paddle
> type fan or the folding sort.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
> Subject: [h-cost] Laquered bamboo for fans
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <25281.65.117.156.5.1161790183.squirrel@webmail.io.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
>
> I am searching for a source of laquered bamboo for making Japanese
> fans.
>
> I have the washi paper (you all should see it! Peacocks set in
> 24k!!) and either need to make my own laquered bamboo or purchase
> it.
>
> Any help would be appreciated. Yes, I googled ... still need
> references of places though. I may have missed a search query type
> or two. :)
>
> Chiara
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laquered bamboo for fans
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I see that dharmatrading.com has silk folding fans, but the ribs are plain bamboo, not lacquered, and they already have a plain covering.
  http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1669-AA.shtml
   
  Kimiko
  

Chiara Francesca <chiara.francesca@gmail.com> wrote:
  I am making a Sensu (Folding fan). I want to make it a folding fan with 35 
ribs.


 		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laquered bamboo for fans
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Neat!

Since it is silk they are most likely sewn down, from everything that I have 
read so far and by looking at the ones I have. It is easy enough to undo 
them and then glue the washi paper down after folding.

Thanks Kimiko! :)

Chiara

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 7:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laquered bamboo for fans


>I see that dharmatrading.com has silk folding fans, but the ribs are plain 
>bamboo, not lacquered, and they already have a plain covering.
>  http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1669-AA.shtml
>
>  Kimiko
>
>
> Chiara Francesca <chiara.francesca@gmail.com> wrote:
>  I am making a Sensu (Folding fan). I want to make it a folding fan with 
> 35
> ribs.
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done 
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Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 21:01:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: lisa <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] discolored silk
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> Is the laundry soap liquid?  Most laundry liquids seem to contain a lot of 
> dye -- they are often very dark blue or blue/green. That would be my first 
> suspect.
> If it's powdered, are their little colored bits in the powder? I think they 
> add a certain amount of ingredient in both liquids and powders that act like 
> blueing.

 	It's a powder and it's completely white, no colored bits.  It's a 
Safeway house brand and unfortunately, I emptied the box into my detergent 
bin and threw it away so I don't even know the exact name of the product. 
I do remember that it's a concentrated detergent where you need very 
little--1/4 to 3/8 cup does a large load beautifully.

--lisa
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] discolored silk
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At 09:01 PM 10/26/2006, you wrote:
>>Is the laundry soap liquid?  Most laundry liquids seem to contain a 
>>lot of dye -- they are often very dark blue or blue/green. That 
>>would be my first suspect.
>>If it's powdered, are their little colored bits in the powder? I 
>>think they add a certain amount of ingredient in both liquids and 
>>powders that act like blueing.
>
>         It's a powder and it's completely white, no colored 
> bits.  It's a Safeway house brand and unfortunately, I emptied the 
> box into my detergent bin and threw it away so I don't even know 
> the exact name of the product. I do remember that it's a 
> concentrated detergent where you need very little--1/4 to 3/8 cup 
> does a large load beautifully.
>
>--lisa

I would try washing with Orvus or Synthrapol.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] New Civil War program?
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My mother, belatedly, informed me that a crew from the History Channel
was filming at a local (Leavenworth, KS) museum this week.  She has been
involved with this museum for years and was onhand to help setup, find
props, etc.  Naturally (sigh) she could not remember the names of anyone
working on the program (some local, some from Los Angeles) but thought
it was about women who had fought in the Civil War.  They were to be
filming battle scenes at another site in Kansas this week.  

She did remember it was for the History Channel and I was wondering if
it might be for their Civil War Classroom series.  Anyone familiar with
this?

Now when she said "History Channel" I kind of cringed because I think
we have all seen how hit and miss their authenticity can be.  She was
impressed with the woman she was working with however.  The lady had
brought her own box of period linens to use if neccessary, and
questioned several of the background props, like a clock, to be sure
they were appropriate for the period.  How much of this will end up in
the final cut is anyone's guess.

Catherine
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: custom boots
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(I'll be posting this to a couple lists, sorry if you get multiples.)

A friend of mine has wanted a pair of custom boots for years, and things
are finally coming together for her to order a pair.  Does anyone have
recommendations (or, possibly more important, warnings) on someone who
could make a pair of high leather boots?

Also, how hard is it to measure someone for something like this?  If she
has to fly to the bootmaker to get the measurements and/or fitting done,
well, that's coming out of the boot budget.

Feel free to reply off-list.

Leah
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Hi all,
  May I introduce myself. My name is Audrey Chase. My experience is in small stage productions in colleges and universities, and for the last six years in community theatre. Also, I've done Parks and Recreation children's theatre in the past and some Miss Drill Team USA competition work.
My first digest just came and I tend to lurk more then participate but the other list to which I belong covers an ever changing variety of subject matter.
Nice to met you today and it is so good to be here.
Audy.

________________________________________
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Organization: Five Rivers
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            I'm down to 178 patterns, with a 50% discount value of
$1776.38CDN. Any and all takers welcome. Make me an offer. I want these gone
and out of here by October 31. Website is current if you wish to view what's
there.

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

 

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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2006 22:51:18 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: custom boots
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 10/27/2006 4:17:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
llwatts@juno.com writes:

A friend  of mine has wanted a pair of custom boots for years, and things
are finally  coming together for her to order a pair.  Does anyone  have
recommendations (or, possibly more important, warnings) on someone  who
could make a pair of high leather boots?



I'll reply on-list.  My husband had boots made by Frederick Longtin  and he 
loves them!  They weren't cheap, of course.  We took  measurements and made 
tracings of the feet.
Frederick Longtin
RR#2 Box 2094
Granville Ferry,  Nova Scotia BOS 1KO
902-532-2233

Ann Wass
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Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2006 06:39:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] NEW KID ON THE BLOCK
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Welcome.  I to lurk more than participate.  Very good group with lots of information.  
 
  Lady Von
 
http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
 



----- Original Message ----
From: AVC <achasedesign@peoplepc.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 4:39:00 PM
Subject: [h-cost] NEW KID ON THE BLOCK


Hi all,
  May I introduce myself. My name is Audrey Chase. My experience is in small stage productions in colleges and universities, and for the last six years in community theatre. Also, I've done Parks and Recreation children's theatre in the past and some Miss Drill Team USA competition work.
My first digest just came and I tend to lurk more then participate but the other list to which I belong covers an ever changing variety of subject matter.
Nice to met you today and it is so good to be here.
Audy.

________________________________________
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A better way to Internet
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Parasol Frame & Fan
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2006 14:26:44 -0400
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Someone recommended the Gentleman's Emporium 
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/index.php earlier this week. Wednesday, I 
looked the site over and ordered a red lace parasol and matching fan.  To my 
surprise I received the items today.  That is fast service!!!  The parasol 
and fan are beautiful and made very well.  My only complaint was on the 
parasol there were little white threads on the parasol like tailor tacks 
that weren't removed.  I took them out with tweezers in a few minutes.

As for the frames... they are all of a good quality.  The fan is polished 
bamboo but not lacquered.  I don't know who their frame supplier is but it 
would be interesting to know.  The items came in boxes and plastic covering 
that were made to fit the parasol and fan for storage.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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I am putting online a fashion terms dictionary from 1894.  I came across asbestos being used in fabrics.  What are some of the other past fabrics or dyes that have been found to be harmful to the wearer?  I am worried now because I am working with a large fashion collection at the university.  I came across a bonnet lined with wool that I am allergic too.  I broke out in a rash and was sneezing uncontrollably.

Here is the definition from the book:
Asbestos :  A fibrous variety of a mineral substance, composed of separate filaments, with a silky luster. Its fibers are sometimes flexible and elastic, sometimes stiff and brittle, and when reduced to a powder are soft to the touch. It is incombustible, and the fine qualities have been spun and woven into gloves, shrouds, cloth for firemen's suits, lamp-wicks, roofs, floors and for various other fire-proofing purposes. Its feeble consistency has always has always been the chief obstacle to its general use among textile fabrics. It was mined in 1894 in Canada, Vermont, Virginia, South Carolina and on Staten Island, New York.

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Mercury was formerly used in making felt hats (like beaver hats) to =
separate the fur from the pelt. Mercury is harmful to the central =
nervous system ( hence the phrase " mad as a hatter").
=20
Patty Rickard

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Sat 10/28/2006 4:25 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics



I am putting online a fashion terms dictionary from 1894.  I came across =
asbestos being used in fabrics.  What are some of the other past fabrics =
or dyes that have been found to be harmful to the wearer?  I am worried =
now because I am working with a large fashion collection at the =
university.  I came across a bonnet lined with wool that I am allergic =
too.  I broke out in a rash and was sneezing uncontrollably.

Here is the definition from the book:
Asbestos :  A fibrous variety of a mineral substance, composed of =
separate filaments, with a silky luster. Its fibers are sometimes =
flexible and elastic, sometimes stiff and brittle, and when reduced to a =
powder are soft to the touch. It is incombustible, and the fine =
qualities have been spun and woven into gloves, shrouds, cloth for =
firemen's suits, lamp-wicks, roofs, floors and for various other =
fire-proofing purposes. Its feeble consistency has always has always =
been the chief obstacle to its general use among textile fabrics. It was =
mined in 1894 in Canada, Vermont, Virginia, South Carolina and on Staten =
Island, New York.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com

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Patty,

I am working with 19th and 20th Century felt hats.  Is there a time frame 
when the mercury stopped being used in felt hats?

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] the best kind of compliment
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So we went downtown to a Halloween party at the home of a friend. He's 
got an old turn of the last century house under restoration -- house is 
an understatement, the invitation said 'Mansion' and that's not far off. 
I figured the appropriate costume to wear would be the 1890-ish set I 
made for us a few years back. We got lots of polite comments of the 
'nice costume' and 'you look great' variety and then, the kicker: 
"Where'd you get the vintage clothing?"

[GRIN]


Dawn


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Hello, Penny,
=20
I know that use was stopped in the US 12/1/41, I don't know about other =
countries. You might wasnt to check this URL about the precautions taken =
at the V & A: =
http://www.vam.ac.uk/res_cons/conservation/journal/number_46/coshh_works/=
index.html
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Sat 10/28/2006 10:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics



Patty,

I am working with 19th and 20th Century felt hats.  Is there a time =
frame
when the mercury stopped being used in felt hats?

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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Thank you Patty.  I will check the link out.

My Mom and Dad used to be firefighters.  I was talking with Mom tonight and 
she said asbestos was in their suits in the early to mid 1960s.  But the 
uniforms my have been purchased used.  With mercury and asbestos in 
textiles...gosh, I don't want to suit up in a hasmat uniform to work in the 
fashion collection.  I don't think cotton gloves would protect me from these 
problems.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
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Aniline dye is dangerous.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 1:26 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics


I am putting online a fashion terms dictionary from 1894.  I came across
asbestos being used in fabrics.  What are some of the other past fabrics or
dyes that have been found to be harmful to the wearer?  I am worried now
because I am working with a large fashion collection at the university.  I
came across a bonnet lined with wool that I am allergic too.  I broke out in
a rash and was sneezing uncontrollably.

Here is the definition from the book:
Asbestos :  A fibrous variety of a mineral substance, composed of separate
filaments, with a silky luster. Its fibers are sometimes flexible and
elastic, sometimes stiff and brittle, and when reduced to a powder are soft
to the touch. It is incombustible, and the fine qualities have been spun and
woven into gloves, shrouds, cloth for firemen's suits, lamp-wicks, roofs,
floors and for various other fire-proofing purposes. Its feeble consistency
has always has always been the chief obstacle to its general use among
textile fabrics. It was mined in 1894 in Canada, Vermont, Virginia, South
Carolina and on Staten Island, New York.

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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Status: RO

Also, I remember something about a certain kind of green dye being
dangerous. It was used in fabric and wallpaper, and children who ate the
paper scraps got sick, also the people wearing a garment could get sick.
There was something on this list a while ago about someone having an old
dress she wanted to wear, but was told to be careful because of potentially
harmful dyes.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 1:26 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics


I am putting online a fashion terms dictionary from 1894.  I came across
asbestos being used in fabrics.  What are some of the other past fabrics or
dyes that have been found to be harmful to the wearer?  I am worried now
because I am working with a large fashion collection at the university.  I
came across a bonnet lined with wool that I am allergic too.  I broke out in
a rash and was sneezing uncontrollably.

Here is the definition from the book:
Asbestos :  A fibrous variety of a mineral substance, composed of separate
filaments, with a silky luster. Its fibers are sometimes flexible and
elastic, sometimes stiff and brittle, and when reduced to a powder are soft
to the touch. It is incombustible, and the fine qualities have been spun and
woven into gloves, shrouds, cloth for firemen's suits, lamp-wicks, roofs,
floors and for various other fire-proofing purposes. Its feeble consistency
has always has always been the chief obstacle to its general use among
textile fabrics. It was mined in 1894 in Canada, Vermont, Virginia, South
Carolina and on Staten Island, New York.

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
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Sharon,

I found this on a webpage about aniline dyes, 
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3983/is_200012/ai_n8905150/pg_4 
.  I really don't recommend going to this link because it wants to put too 
many cookies on your computer.  But is this what you were referring to?  The 
webpage makes several references to colors and dyes mentioned in Godey's.

"Green, of the new shade called Metternich" was likewise "very fashionable" 
for a brief period between 1868 and 1870.41 Schultz reported that Metternich 
green was one of the trade names for iodine green, discovered in 1866.42 
Presumably the name refers to the Princess Metternich, an acknowledged 
leader of Paris fashion, 43 who may have worn the color and thus made it 
fashionable. According to Challamel, green had fallen out of favor 
completely by 1861 because of cases of women who were poisoned by making or 
wearing garments colored with one of the arsenic-based green pigments, such 
as Scheele's green or Schweinfurt green. Since these were pigments and not 
dyes, the color could rub or flake off Despite this, arsenic green appeared 
in Godey's in 1867.44 Iodine green was a dye, not a pigment, and did not 
pose the same danger to the wearer. Because the Princess Metternich was 
known for her eccentricity, she might have adopted green in defiance of 
popular thought. "
Off to run my spyware to get rid of all these cookies.  I gave up on that 
webpage after seven requests to put cookies on my computer.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 2:53 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics


> Also, I remember something about a certain kind of green dye being
> dangerous. It was used in fabric and wallpaper, and children who ate the
> paper scraps got sick, also the people wearing a garment could get sick.
> There was something on this list a while ago about someone having an old
> dress she wanted to wear, but was told to be careful because of 
> potentially
> harmful dyes.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 1:26 PM
> To: h-costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
>
>
> I am putting online a fashion terms dictionary from 1894.  I came across
> asbestos being used in fabrics.  What are some of the other past fabrics 
> or
> dyes that have been found to be harmful to the wearer?  I am worried now
> because I am working with a large fashion collection at the university.  I
> came across a bonnet lined with wool that I am allergic too.  I broke out 
> in
> a rash and was sneezing uncontrollably.
>
> Here is the definition from the book:
> Asbestos :  A fibrous variety of a mineral substance, composed of separate
> filaments, with a silky luster. Its fibers are sometimes flexible and
> elastic, sometimes stiff and brittle, and when reduced to a powder are 
> soft
> to the touch. It is incombustible, and the fine qualities have been spun 
> and
> woven into gloves, shrouds, cloth for firemen's suits, lamp-wicks, roofs,
> floors and for various other fire-proofing purposes. Its feeble 
> consistency
> has always has always been the chief obstacle to its general use among
> textile fabrics. It was mined in 1894 in Canada, Vermont, Virginia, South
> Carolina and on Staten Island, New York.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
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In a message dated 10/29/2006 2:54:32 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

Also, I  remember something about a certain kind of green dye being
dangerous. It  was used in fabric and wallpaper, and children who ate the
paper scraps got  sick, also the people wearing a garment could get sick.
There was something  on this list a while ago about someone having an old
dress she wanted to  wear, but was told to be careful because of potentially
harmful  dyes.



Certainly some aniline dyes could be toxic while being used. The stories  
about their danger after dyeing, however, sound very much like what we would  
today call urban legends.  For example, supposedly someone wore mittens  dyed 
with one of the new reddish dyes.  The mittens got wet in the snow,  the person 
pulled them off with the teeth, and got sick.  Another one of  the stories was 
about how people boiled potatoes in a pot that had been used for  dyeing. Why 
I question the veracity of these stories is I found the same stories  
re-printed about 10 years later, and with just vague details--some of the  hallmarks 
of "urban legends."
 
The wallpaper, though, is a little different.  Arsenic was used in  green 
pigments (not dyes). Pigments need a fixative to attach to paper and  fabric, and 
it is not too farfetched to think they could flake off and be  harmful. 
Again, the contemporary literature has stories of such things, but they  are 
impossible to verify at this late date. The most vivid, so to speak, was  about a 
woman who used green crepe paper (evidently colored with an arsenical  pigment), 
for a costume and got deathly ill.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
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In a message dated 10/29/2006 3:26:26 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
penny@costumegallery.com writes:

http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3983/is_200012/ai_n8905150/pg_4  



Ah, Penny, yes, that is from an article I wrote based on the work for my  
doctoral dissertation.  The post I just sent is a brief summary of  it.
 
Thanks for letting me know I'm on the web!
 
Ann Wass
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From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: [h-cost] Cut on bias??
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Hi,

I was looking at Simplicity pattern 4510 an 1860 dress.
The directions say that you cut the skirt ruffles on the bias.
Is that something they did on plain colored ruffles?
I am enhancing a gown that I already have 
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html
I am going to make a day bodice and put some ruffles on the gown like in 
this picture
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/test.jpg
The gown is made from taffeta the ruffles will be black taffeta(synthetic).
Would the ruffles look better if I cut them on the bias???

Greetings,
       Deredere

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
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At 10:28 29/10/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 10/29/2006 2:54:32 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>sharon@collierfam.com writes:
>
>Also, I  remember something about a certain kind of green dye being
>dangerous. It  was used in fabric and wallpaper, and children who ate the
>paper scraps got  sick, also the people wearing a garment could get sick.
>There was something  on this list a while ago about someone having an old
>dress she wanted to  wear, but was told to be careful because of potentially
>harmful  dyes.
>
>
>
>Certainly some aniline dyes could be toxic while being used. The stories
>about their danger after dyeing, however, sound very much like what we would
>today call urban legends.  For example, supposedly someone wore mittens  dyed
>with one of the new reddish dyes.  The mittens got wet in the 
>snow,  the person
>pulled them off with the teeth, and got sick.  Another one of  the 
>stories was
>about how people boiled potatoes in a pot that had been used for  dyeing. Why
>I question the veracity of these stories is I found the same stories
>re-printed about 10 years later, and with just vague details--some 
>of the  hallmarks
>of "urban legends."
>
>The wallpaper, though, is a little different.  Arsenic was used in  green
>pigments (not dyes). Pigments need a fixative to attach to paper 
>and  fabric, and
>it is not too farfetched to think they could flake off and be  harmful.
>Again, the contemporary literature has stories of such things, but they  are
>impossible to verify at this late date. The most vivid, so to speak, 
>was  about a
>woman who used green crepe paper (evidently colored with an 
>arsenical  pigment),
>for a costume and got deathly ill.

It was rumoured that Napoleon was murdered by the British on St. 
Helena, through the wallpaper which had traces of arsenic in it. I 
believe someone has researched this fairly thoroughly in recent 
years, but I do not have documentation.

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] RE:   Harmful Fabrics
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Arsenic green.

Ann in CT

--- "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
wrote:

> Also, I remember something about a certain kind of
> green dye being
> dangerous. It was used in fabric and wallpaper, and
> children who ate the
> paper scraps got sick, also the people wearing a
> garment could get sick.
> There was something on this list a while ago about
> someone having an old
> dress she wanted to wear, but was told to be careful
> because of potentially
> harmful dyes.



 
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From: Galadriel Lothlorien <galadrielfinwe@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cut on bias??
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Hi Deredere.

In my opinion, you should only cut ruffles on the bias
if you want to 1)use a stripe or pattern and it
becomes a design element, or 2)when you need a really
crisp, stiff fabric (like dupioni, for example) to lie
flatter.  Bias ruffles want to fall.  You won't get
the spring out like you will with ruffles cut on the
straight of grain.

Have you considered circular ruffles?

You should cut some samples and see which you like
best.

Regards,
--Rachel


 
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From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2006 09:25:00 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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      As if the dyes and finishes were not enough...

      I heard about something called "silk rot", which will consume &  
destroy silk faster than time in general.  I broke out after handling  
some 1880s/90s items, ad that was suggested as a cause.  In that case  
the item should be removed from the collection.

      -Carol
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: dangerous fabrics
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I remember posts about "lead salts" or something being used to weight silk
in, I think, the 1890s. I don't remember whether they are harmful to people
wearing them or to the fabric itself (causing it to disintegrate). But I
would search the archives for that one.

Gail Finke

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cut on bias??
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At 03:12 AM 10/29/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I was looking at Simplicity pattern 4510 an 1860 dress.
>The directions say that you cut the skirt ruffles on the bias.
>Is that something they did on plain colored ruffles?
>I am enhancing a gown that I already have 
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html
>I am going to make a day bodice and put some ruffles on the gown 
>like in this picture
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/test.jpg
>The gown is made from taffeta the ruffles will be black taffeta(synthetic).
>Would the ruffles look better if I cut them on the bias???
>
>Greetings,
>       Deredere

One reason for cutting ruffles on the bias is to reduce the amount of 
hemming you need to do.  Fabrics cut on the bias fray much less than 
cuts on the grain (you need to hem these).  Many of the 19th century 
gowns have bias-cut ruffles.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Asbestos in clothing
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Here's an earlier reference to asbestos in clothing:

> ALBANY [GA] PATRIOT, December 12, 1861, p. 2, c. 2
>
> Water-Proof clothing--Asbestos.
>
> We are pleased to learn that Messrs. Golueke & Wilson, of Washington, 
> Wilkes county, Ga., are manufacturing a light and pliable cloth which 
> is said to be impervious to water, and serve as a substitute for the 
> ordinary, but more costly India Rubber cloth, and is said to be 
> admirably adopted to camp service.  There is another article which 
> seems to be forgotten and almost entirely out of use, which may be 
> worked to advantage in the manufacture of soldiers cloth and articles 
> of clothing of similar use.  We refer to a mineral called "Asbestus," 
> [sic] and which may be found in abundant beds both in Southern 
> Tennessee and Northern Georgia.  This article, if we mistake not, when 
> properly manufactured, or woven into cloth, will prove a most 
> excellent article for soldiers use, for travelling purposes, and 
> especially for firemens clothing.  It is both water-proof and 
> fire-proof.  An instance is recorded wherein a fireman clothed in a 
> tissue made of this substance, with a proper hood as a covering for 
> his head, was surrounded by a flame of fire and remained in this 
> position for ninety seconds.  His pulse during this time rose from 72 
> to 152.  Another fireman repeated the experiment, and remained in 
> contact with the flames for 3 minutes and 47 seconds.  It was formerly 
> used for shrouds for burying the dead, and may now be used as a 
> valuable article for lining fire-proof safes, and serve a better 
> purpose than the ordinary fire-proof paint for covering houses.  In 
> short, it can be woven into thread and manufactured into goods for 
> many valuable and useful purposes, both public and domestic.  Will not 
> some of our more scientific citizens experiment on this subject, and 
> furnish us with the result of their investigations?
>

Vicki Betts

Penny Ladnier wrote:

>I am putting online a fashion terms dictionary from 1894.  I came across asbestos being used in fabrics.  
>  
>
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From: Galadriel Lothlorien <galadrielfinwe@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cut on bias??
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Hi Deredere.

In my opinion, you should only cut ruffles on the bias
if you want to 1)use a stripe or pattern and it
becomes a design element, or 2)when you need a really
crisp, stiff fabric (like dupioni, for example) to lie
flatter.  Bias ruffles want to fall.  You won't get
the spring out like you will with ruffles cut on the
straight of grain.

Have you considered circular ruffles?

You should cut some samples and see which you like
best.

Regards,
--Rachel


 
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It might be Paris green - (Arsenic trioxide & copper acetate)
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Sharon at Collierfam.com
Sent: Sun 10/29/2006 2:53 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics



Also, I remember something about a certain kind of green dye being
dangerous. It was used in fabric and wallpaper, and children who ate the
paper scraps got sick, also the people wearing a garment could get sick.
There was something on this list a while ago about someone having an old
dress she wanted to wear, but was told to be careful because of =
potentially
harmful dyes.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 1:26 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics


I am putting online a fashion terms dictionary from 1894.  I came across
asbestos being used in fabrics.  What are some of the other past fabrics =
or
dyes that have been found to be harmful to the wearer?  I am worried now
because I am working with a large fashion collection at the university.  =
I
came across a bonnet lined with wool that I am allergic too.  I broke =
out in
a rash and was sneezing uncontrollably.

Here is the definition from the book:
Asbestos :  A fibrous variety of a mineral substance, composed of =
separate
filaments, with a silky luster. Its fibers are sometimes flexible and
elastic, sometimes stiff and brittle, and when reduced to a powder are =
soft
to the touch. It is incombustible, and the fine qualities have been spun =
and
woven into gloves, shrouds, cloth for firemen's suits, lamp-wicks, =
roofs,
floors and for various other fire-proofing purposes. Its feeble =
consistency
has always has always been the chief obstacle to its general use among
textile fabrics. It was mined in 1894 in Canada, Vermont, Virginia, =
South
Carolina and on Staten Island, New York.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com

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Kudos Ann!  I really liked the article the page I read.  It is a shame it is 
on a webpage that wants to put so many cookies on your computer.  It ended 
up freezing up my IE and I had to do an Control /ALT/Delete to close my 
browser.


Can you please privately email me the article so I can read the entire 
thing.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<18037059078CE14C97E74A4F59DD7B1B9EC4CC@lynx.campus.muc.prv>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2006 13:01:02 -0500
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Patty,

Do you have a source for the date of the last use of mercury in felt hats in 
the U.S.  You quoted a date last night.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the best kind of compliment
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It does NOT get any better than that :-]  Congrats!!!
   
  Chris G.

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  So we went downtown to a Halloween party at the home of a friend. He's 
got an old turn of the last century house under restoration -- house is 
an understatement, the invitation said 'Mansion' and that's not far off. 
I figured the appropriate costume to wear would be the 1890-ish set I 
made for us a few years back. We got lots of polite comments of the 
'nice costume' and 'you look great' variety and then, the kicker: 
"Where'd you get the vintage clothing?"

[GRIN]


Dawn


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From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: [h-cost] Happy Halloween!
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I wish you all a happy and creative Halloween!
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/HappyHalloween.jpg

Greetings,
       Deredere

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Hi Penny,
=20
URL: http://www.dartmouth.edu/~toxmetal/TXSHhg.shtml paragraph about =
mercury & hatters.
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Sun 10/29/2006 1:01 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics



Patty,

Do you have a source for the date of the last use of mercury in felt =
hats in
the U.S.  You quoted a date last night.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com

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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Happy Halloween!
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Cute bunny! And *fierce* pumpkin face! ;oD
You have a good one, too!
--Sue, who's going to work on Tuesday as a 10th century Norse woman
(okay...I'm lazy this year...it's SCA garb <g>)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 1:40 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Happy Halloween!


> I wish you all a happy and creative Halloween!
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/HappyHalloween.jpg
>
> Greetings,
>        Deredere


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Happy Halloween!
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<snip>
> --Sue, who's going to work on Tuesday as a 10th century Norse woman
> (okay...I'm lazy this year...it's SCA garb <g>)
>
ah but it's Halloween, you need to add a Wagnerian style 'Viking' horned 
helmet (preferably with long blonde braids attached) and call yourself 
Brunhilda, for Halloween you've got to be a modern stereotype, not an 
accurate historical 'everyman' (or 'everywoman' in this case), you can dress 
as a famous historical figure (Marie Antoinette, Cleopatra, Napoleon, Henry 
VIII etc) but if you're an average woman of year X in true Halloween 
tradition it should be a stereotype like a 'wench' or a 'flapper' or a 
'Viking' (in the style of a Wagnerian opera). Halloween is about pop-culture 
stereotypes, not historical accuracy :-D
I won't be dressing up for Halloween as I'll be at home all day preparing 
for an exam on Friday so I suppose I can't really talk.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
Send photos of your haloween costumes to Am I Period Or Not: 
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2006 20:18:57 -0800
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Penny,  Are you holding the fabrics up and breathing through them for long
periods of time?  Then I'd worry about asbestos, arsenic green, and mercury.
Otherwise the chance of you being harmed by these substances left in vintage
clothing has to be considered minute.  If you are allergic to wool, this
must be H**l for someone as interested in fashions of the past as you are.
However, you know what wool looks like and feels like so there should be a
decent chance for you to avoid handling something that will give you an
allergic reaction.

I wish there were something like the Urban Legends site that could de-bunk
some of the "Napoleon died from breathing fumes from his wallpaper", or
"little children died from ingesting mercury from broken thermometers".  It
is perfectly possible to swallow medical mercury and have unusually colored
stools for a while.  You can play with mercury droplets and have great fun
pushing them with your bare hands to make them break up and come together.
You won't die or become ill unless you have some very strange allergy (been
there, done that, enjoyed my childhood as a pharmacist's daughter immensely.
Don't breathe the fumes though.

Asbestos is perfectly harmless unless the fibers become airborne and are
breathed.  All my schools were insulated with the stuff, frequently the
ceiling tiles were made of it.  We were in far more danger from burning to
death in school building fires than we were from aspects inhalation.  Even
your Hasmat people will tell you that the asbestos siding on many older
(pre-1970) homes is perfectly safe until you start messing with it and
tearing it out.
	Same with all the lead in paint that most of us grew up around.  Don't eat
the stuff.  Don't let your kids eat the stuff.  If small muches occasionally
would have killed or maimed a child, I should never have made it through
puberty, nor should most of the children of Europe and America since lead
based paints were common until fairly recently.
	My point here is that there are a lot of things to worry about, but mercury
or arsenic poisoning from occasional handling of old textiles and articles
aren't among them.

Wanda Pease

 Harmful Fabrics
>
>
> It might be Paris green - (Arsenic trioxide & copper acetate)
>
> Patty
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Sharon at Collierfam.com
> Sent: Sun 10/29/2006 2:53 AM
> To: 'Historical Costume'
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
>
>
>
> Also, I remember something about a certain kind of green dye being
> dangerous. It was used in fabric and wallpaper, and children who ate the
> paper scraps got sick, also the people wearing a garment could get sick.
> There was something on this list a while ago about someone having an old
> dress she wanted to wear, but was told to be careful because of
> potentially
> harmful dyes.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 1:26 PM
> To: h-costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
>
>
> I am putting online a fashion terms dictionary from 1894.  I came across
> asbestos being used in fabrics.  What are some of the other past
> fabrics or
> dyes that have been found to be harmful to the wearer?  I am worried now
> because I am working with a large fashion collection at the university.  I
> came across a bonnet lined with wool that I am allergic too.  I
> broke out in
> a rash and was sneezing uncontrollably.
>
> Here is the definition from the book:
> Asbestos :  A fibrous variety of a mineral substance, composed of separate
> filaments, with a silky luster. Its fibers are sometimes flexible and
> elastic, sometimes stiff and brittle, and when reduced to a
> powder are soft
> to the touch. It is incombustible, and the fine qualities have
> been spun and
> woven into gloves, shrouds, cloth for firemen's suits, lamp-wicks, roofs,
> floors and for various other fire-proofing purposes. Its feeble
> consistency
> has always has always been the chief obstacle to its general use among
> textile fabrics. It was mined in 1894 in Canada, Vermont, Virginia, South
> Carolina and on Staten Island, New York.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: harmful fabrics
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I think several "heavy metals" salts were used for "weighting" silk - 
lead, arsenic, cadmium, etc.  All are toxic - perhaps not so much 
when they were fresh (they didn't flake off or outgas), but they do 
cause the silk to disintegrate much faster than normal, and with that 
disintegration comes dust.  Dust = inhaled = toxic results.

Sandy

At 01:00 PM 10/29/2006, you wrote:

>Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2006 10:36:34 -0400
>From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
>
>I remember posts about "lead salts" or something being used to weight silk
>in, I think, the 1890s. I don't remember whether they are harmful to people
>wearing them or to the fabric itself (causing it to disintegrate). But I
>would search the archives for that one.
>
>Gail Finke

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Happy Halloween!
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 02:47:44 -0600
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One Halloween to create the abundant Brunhilda of Wagnerian stereo type. Two
plastic bowls were acquired. Glue was used to make a raise effect (plus a
few other odds and ends) on the bottom of the bowls  Then aluminum foil
covered this and glued down. These were sewn to an apron dress and chains
draped between the foiled bowls. placement of the bowls was a bit tricky. :)

-----Original Message-----
ah but it's Halloween, you need to add a Wagnerian style 'Viking' horned
helmet (preferably with long blonde braids attached) and call yourself
Brunhilda,


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
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Thanks for that summary.  With many of these toxins, it is a matter of  
prolonged, repeated exposure over time.  For example, the miners who mined  
asbestos for years, or small children who repeatedly ate lead paint chips for a  long 
time.  One or two lead chips wouldn't be harmful, in all  likelihood.  
Similarly, a large dose of arsenic ingested at once could, of  course, be fatal, but 
in cases of deliberate arsenical poisoning, usually small  doses are given 
over a period of time.
 
It does sound like Penny has a contact allergy, which is something  
different, and varies from individual to individual.
 
As I said in my initial post, those early horror stories about aniline dyes  
did sound suspect to me.  It does seem likely, though, that industrial  runoff 
from the manufacturing plants into the surrounding water sources was NOT  a 
good thing!
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume books
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Has anyone ever come across a book that deals specifically with the 
history of costuming for the stage?  Not a costume history book, but 
how costumes evolved for the theatrical industry.

Sylrog

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Happy Halloween!
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Oh, Elizabeth! That is so very funny! ;oD Especially since I'm sort of built
like a very large, very short Valkerie anyway.  Dear god, but I'm laughing
at the idea of my chest in a "brass bra" set up!  I'll have to remember it
for next year!  This year, though, I don't have time to come up with
anything genuinely schlocky and costumey, or good but costumey so I'm either
going in SCA garb, or I'm wearing my weekday clothes, and going as a Muggle.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Happy Halloween!


> <snip>
> > --Sue, who's going to work on Tuesday as a 10th century Norse woman
> > (okay...I'm lazy this year...it's SCA garb <g>)
> >
> ah but it's Halloween, you need to add a Wagnerian style 'Viking' horned
> helmet (preferably with long blonde braids attached) and call yourself
> Brunhilda, for Halloween you've got to be a modern stereotype, not an
> accurate historical 'everyman' (or 'everywoman' in this case), you can
dress
> as a famous historical figure (Marie Antoinette, Cleopatra, Napoleon,
Henry
> VIII etc) but if you're an average woman of year X in true Halloween
> tradition it should be a stereotype like a 'wench' or a 'flapper' or a
> 'Viking' (in the style of a Wagnerian opera). Halloween is about
pop-culture
> stereotypes, not historical accuracy :-D
> I won't be dressing up for Halloween as I'll be at home all day preparing
> for an exam on Friday so I suppose I can't really talk.
> Elizabeth


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume books
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 15:48:17 +0100
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Jep!
I have a danish one, about costume and fashion clothes in the danish theater 
from 1745- 1960ies. It dont go further back than mid 18th century. But i 
learned a lot of things from this book. It also has pattern cuts of the 
excisting costumes.
I learned for instance that mens embroidered suits of the 18th century were 
two fine to give to servants, so they were given to the theater in stead. 
Lower ranked  people was only allowed to wear poor thin silks, wich were 
striped, so no suits for the waiters. And it was a problem to get rhid of 
the fine suits, as they could only be worn a coupple of times. It would not 
be of interrest for you, as it is in danish language i am afraid...........
Bjarne


 ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: <TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 5:21 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Costume books


> Has anyone ever come across a book that deals specifically with the 
> history of costuming for the stage?  Not a costume history book, but how 
> costumes evolved for the theatrical industry.
>
> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume books
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Hi --
Try theatre history books, not costume histories for that information. The
trend toward "realistic period clothing" (making actors wear clothes that
were something other than their own contemporary fashions with odd bits
draped over them) did not happen until the 19th C. Check out Charlotte
Cushman and the Duke of Saxe-Minegen (sp?). They both did a lot to push the
concept. I used  the book: History of the Theatre in grad school a _long_
time ago. It was pretty good. There is a later version on Amazon now
(History of the Theatre (9th Edition) by Oscar G. Brockett and Franklin J.
Hildy).

Monica/ Catriona



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 11:22 PM
To: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Costume books


Has anyone ever come across a book that deals specifically with the
history of costuming for the stage?  Not a costume history book, but
how costumes evolved for the theatrical industry.

Sylrog

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Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> Has anyone ever come across a book that deals specifically with the 
> history of costuming for the stage?  Not a costume history book, but how 
> costumes evolved for the theatrical industry.
> 

_Costume in the Theatre_ by James Laver. OOP, I think, but copies show 
up on Ebay and in used bookshops from time to time.


Dawn


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From: Judith Bolenbaugh <ladyvonkulp@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume books
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And on abebooks.com.  There are several copies for
sale right now, starting at $5.18.

Judith

--- Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> 
> _Costume in the Theatre_ by James Laver. OOP, I
> think, but copies show 
> up on Ebay and in used bookshops from time to time.
> 
> 
> Dawn



 
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I have Brockett and am using him.  Just wondered if anyone had seen a 
book just devoted to costuming.  Perhaps there isn't enough info to 
make up a whole book, since the info in Brocket is rather sketchy.


On Oct 30, 2006, at 7:46 AM, monica spence wrote:

> Hi --
> Try theatre history books, not costume histories for that information. 
> The
> trend toward "realistic period clothing" (making actors wear clothes 
> that
> were something other than their own contemporary fashions with odd bits
> draped over them) did not happen until the 19th C. Check out Charlotte
> Cushman and the Duke of Saxe-Minegen (sp?). They both did a lot to 
> push the
> concept. I used  the book: History of the Theatre in grad school a 
> _long_
> time ago. It was pretty good. There is a later version on Amazon now
> (History of the Theatre (9th Edition) by Oscar G. Brockett and 
> Franklin J.
> Hildy).
>
> Monica/ Catriona
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 11:22 PM
> To: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
> Cc: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Costume books
>
>
> Has anyone ever come across a book that deals specifically with the
> history of costuming for the stage?  Not a costume history book, but
> how costumes evolved for the theatrical industry.
>
> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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I posted to the list, but i didnt see it  go trough§

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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On Monday 30 October 2006 4:45 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> I posted to the list, but i didnt see it  go trough§

I got this message, Bjarne.  Maybe your first one will go through later--that 
happens sometimes.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost



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Status: RO

I still haven't decided if I am going as Snow White or a Witch.  I am  
handing out candy at my ex-hubbies house so he can take the bairns  
around.  If I wear my witch costume I could be the "Ex-wife... ya  
know.. rhymes with Witch..."

The kids are Alien versus Predator.  I have blisters on my blisters  
from carving foam.

Have safe fun tomorrow!

Blessing on Samhain!
Althea


On Oct 29, 2006, at 5:02 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Cute bunny! And *fierce* pumpkin face! ;oD
> You have a good one, too!
> --Sue, who's going to work on Tuesday as a 10th century Norse woman
> (okay...I'm lazy this year...it's SCA garb <g>)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 1:40 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Happy Halloween!
>
>
>> I wish you all a happy and creative Halloween!
>> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/HappyHalloween.jpg
>>
>> Greetings,
>>        Deredere
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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I am reading Amanda Foreman's nobel Georgiana Duchesse of Devonshire. And i 
enjoy it very much. Its full of fashionable details.
I stumbled about this quotation about "false fronts" wich i dont think i 
know anything about. Does any of you?

In the sanctuary og Devonshire House the two women amused themselves by 
experimenting with new hats and drawing patterns for dresses. The fashion 
for false hips and bottoms made of cork to round out the figure, and padded 
breast to fill out the bodice had ben in vogue since the 1770s. Georgiana 
added a new element: the false front to disguise pregnancy. She showed her 
design to her friends; they were so well received that the false fronts were 
soon worn even by women who were not pregnant. Georgiana was also 
responsible for the unprecedented sales of the "picture hat": wide brimmed 
hats, worn with a large sash and adorned with drooping feathers. She had 
posed in one of her own design, perching it stylishly on the side of her 
head, for her portrait by Gainsborough. After he exhibited the painting, 
women up and down the country ordered their milliners to make them a copy of 
the "Duchesse of Devonshire's" picture hat.

Also in my making of the Kyoto Stays 1780 i wonder about the pronounsed 
front. The bustline is quite wide and off the natural breast. Could this be 
because a false breast improver was added?
http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm  , at the bottom.
How would such a thing be placed? was it over the breast, or under? Most of 
the fashion that time, they used a fichu over the bust, mostly to emphasize 
the shape.
Sorry about these peculiar questions, but i have no idea!
When you look at the picture of the Kyoto Stays in the book, it dont show, 
that it has such a pronounced bustline, but this is mostly because it is 
taken from the center front.
On my model (the blue) you can see that it either is made for a very endoved 
lady, or because it want to improve the fashionable look.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cut on bias??
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In a message dated 10/29/2006 10:05:12 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
joanmj@surewest.net writes:

One  reason for cutting ruffles on the bias is to reduce the amount of 
hemming  you need to do.  Fabrics cut on the bias fray much less than 
cuts on  the grain (you need to hem these).  Many of the 19th century 
gowns  have bias-cut ruffles.



*********************
 
I've never seen bias ruffles on a crinoline gown....but that certainly  
doesn't mean anything conclusive. Many ruffles I've seen on the large skirts of  
the mid 19th century are decoratively pinked if not hemmed....and cut on the  
straight. Like in the 18th century. Most are hemmed or bound and I've even seen  
some piped....all by machine. Before the machine, I can see why a bias ruffle 
 would be desirable.
 
But on bustle gowns I see ruffles on the bias all the time...even in  solid 
colors. They are usually bound in the same or contrasting colors and  usually 
flat-lined with something stiff and on the  straight[!]
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Althea Turner wrote:

> I still haven't decided if I am going as Snow White or a Witch.  


My husband just left for the office dressed as Jack the Ripper. 
Wonderfully versatile, that top hat of his :)



Dawn


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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume books
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At 04:21 30/10/2006, you wrote:
>Has anyone ever come across a book that deals specifically with the 
>history of costuming for the stage?  Not a costume history book, but 
>how costumes evolved for the theatrical industry.
You could try Diana de Marly's "Costume on the Stage 1600-19?"

http://www.alibris.com/search/search.cfm?qwork=1359151&wauth=De%20Marly%2C%20Diana&matches=1&qsort=r&cm_re=works*listing*title

Suzi

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ok thanks!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:06 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] test


> On Monday 30 October 2006 4:45 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>> I posted to the list, but i didnt see it  go trough§
>
> I got this message, Bjarne.  Maybe your first one will go through 
> later--that
> happens sometimes.
>
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
> of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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For those that don't have a copy, check your nearest Barnes and Noble
store to see if they have copies of the book "Fashion" from the Kyoto
Museum of Costume. This 700+ page book has about 300 years of dazzling
color photos from the museums collection. Now $19.99

Cindy Abel 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Question re Robe a la Francaise
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A friend has asked me a question and I have answered, but would 
welcome other comments.

She asks if a Robe a la Francaise (sorry no proper marks) always has 
a split and laced up back. Has anyone seen the inside of one that 
doesn't? If so, are you able to give more information like pictures - 
always supposing you have permission to share them? I would 
appreciate any help.

Suzi

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 15:25:33 -0800
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Yes, it was the arsenic green. But I know aniline dye is bad because we used
it when I was in college and we were warned to be very careful. It made the
most beautiful peacock blue, however. We didn't use it for clothing, just
sets.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 1:25 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics


Sharon,

I found this on a webpage about aniline dyes, 
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3983/is_200012/ai_n8905150/pg_4 
.  I really don't recommend going to this link because it wants to put too 
many cookies on your computer.  But is this what you were referring to?  The

webpage makes several references to colors and dyes mentioned in Godey's.

"Green, of the new shade called Metternich" was likewise "very fashionable" 
for a brief period between 1868 and 1870.41 Schultz reported that Metternich

green was one of the trade names for iodine green, discovered in 1866.42 
Presumably the name refers to the Princess Metternich, an acknowledged 
leader of Paris fashion, 43 who may have worn the color and thus made it 
fashionable. According to Challamel, green had fallen out of favor 
completely by 1861 because of cases of women who were poisoned by making or 
wearing garments colored with one of the arsenic-based green pigments, such 
as Scheele's green or Schweinfurt green. Since these were pigments and not 
dyes, the color could rub or flake off Despite this, arsenic green appeared 
in Godey's in 1867.44 Iodine green was a dye, not a pigment, and did not 
pose the same danger to the wearer. Because the Princess Metternich was 
known for her eccentricity, she might have adopted green in defiance of 
popular thought. "
Off to run my spyware to get rid of all these cookies.  I gave up on that 
webpage after seven requests to put cookies on my computer.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 2:53 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics


> Also, I remember something about a certain kind of green dye being
> dangerous. It was used in fabric and wallpaper, and children who ate the
> paper scraps got sick, also the people wearing a garment could get sick.
> There was something on this list a while ago about someone having an old
> dress she wanted to wear, but was told to be careful because of 
> potentially
> harmful dyes.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 1:26 PM
> To: h-costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
>
>
> I am putting online a fashion terms dictionary from 1894.  I came across
> asbestos being used in fabrics.  What are some of the other past fabrics 
> or
> dyes that have been found to be harmful to the wearer?  I am worried now
> because I am working with a large fashion collection at the university.  I
> came across a bonnet lined with wool that I am allergic too.  I broke out 
> in
> a rash and was sneezing uncontrollably.
>
> Here is the definition from the book:
> Asbestos :  A fibrous variety of a mineral substance, composed of separate
> filaments, with a silky luster. Its fibers are sometimes flexible and
> elastic, sometimes stiff and brittle, and when reduced to a powder are 
> soft
> to the touch. It is incombustible, and the fine qualities have been spun 
> and
> woven into gloves, shrouds, cloth for firemen's suits, lamp-wicks, roofs,
> floors and for various other fire-proofing purposes. Its feeble 
> consistency
> has always has always been the chief obstacle to its general use among
> textile fabrics. It was mined in 1894 in Canada, Vermont, Virginia, South
> Carolina and on Staten Island, New York.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
> _______________________________________________
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A friend of mine once went as "Dr. Jekyll". He wore a tux and the only thing
"abnormal" was he put red contacts in his eyes. People didn't notice them at
first, but when they did, they jumped a mile!  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 6:52 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Happy Halloween!


Althea Turner wrote:

> I still haven't decided if I am going as Snow White or a Witch.  


My husband just left for the office dressed as Jack the Ripper. 
Wonderfully versatile, that top hat of his :)



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
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In a message dated 10/31/2006 4:16:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

But I  know aniline dye is bad because we used
it when I was in college and we  were warned to be very careful. It made the
most beautiful peacock blue,  however. We didn't use it for clothing,  just
sets.




Well, there were all kinds of "aniline" dyes of various compositions, and  
many of them were probably nasty to use in the dyeing process, but not after  
they were fixed in the fabrics.
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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I got it.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 4:45 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] test

I posted to the list, but i didnt see it  go trough§

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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If you're looking for a used or out of print book, try Addall.com. They search hundreds of online booksellers for your title and can rank them by price, condition, etc. AbeBooks is one of the sites Addall uses.
 
Tea Rose, enthusiastic but unaffiliated user.
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In a message dated 10/31/2006 7:39:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tearoses@aol.com writes:

If  you're looking for a used or out of print book, try Addall.com. They 
search  hundreds of online booksellers for your title and can rank them by price,  
condition, etc. AbeBooks is one of the sites Addall  uses.




I had really rotten luck the one time I tried Addall--okay, so it's just  
once, so far.  But it led me to three different sources for a book, all of  whom 
no longer had it.  I've never had a bad experience using AbeBooks  alone.
 
Ann Wass
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