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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Costume books
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Ann Wass,

Did you go to that regional Costume Society meeting in Baltimore when they 
had the Ballet Russes costumes at the Fine Arts Museum?  If so, did you tour 
Evergreen and recall the artist who painted the attic theater?  I was 
watching a show on HGTV about the best bathrooms in the world. Evergreen's 
bathroom was named best bathroom in the world!

I am interested in what seems to be a trend of artist painting attics in the 
1920s.  The John and Mabel Ringling Mansion attic in Sarasota, Florida was 
painted by a popular illustrator of children's books. He also painted sets 
for the Broadway plays in the 1920s.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Costume books
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In a message dated 11/1/2006 1:18:50 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
penny@costumegallery.com writes:

Did you  go to that regional Costume Society meeting in Baltimore when they 
had the  Ballet Russes costumes at the Fine Arts Museum?  If so, did you tour 
 
Evergreen and recall the artist who painted the attic  theater? 


No, I wasn't able to do that part of the meeting.
 
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Nov  1 07:39:28 2006
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Subject: [h-cost] Past Theater Costume Design Resources 
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I am always am in search of antique theater costume designs.   I often run 
across theater costumes designed by big name fashion designers in the 1920s 
in L'Art de Mode magazine.   I find these magazines on eBay.  I have a 
pretty good collection of this magazine from 1900s-1920s.  I have rarely 
seen the designer theater costumes in the 1890s-1910s L'Art magazine issues. 
My suggestion is that if you find these magazines on eBay, write the seller 
and ask if the theater designs are in the magazine before purchasing.  These 
magazines are in French but does provide an English translation under the 
illustrations.

Delineator magazine also covers interviews and photos of actors/actresses. 
Most of these, I recall, are from the 1890s-1920s.

Artists of the 1920s also were known to design for theater.  Bakst and 
Matisse were known for their designs for the Ballets Russes.  I saw some of 
these costumes at the Baltimore Museum of Fine Arts exhibit a few years ago. 
They had a big exhibit of them.  The Evergreen Mansion in Baltimore has 
several renderings of theatre costume designs by these artists.  They have a 
special room for these.  If you are in Baltimore, this mansion is a 
must-see.  The last owner of the mansion hired big name artists from the 
1920s-1950s to paint in her home.  They also had to give her painting 
lessons.  Her attic was transformed into a theater painted by Bakst or 
Matisse... but memory seems to recall it was Bakst.  Evergreen is now owned 
by John Hopkins University.  The property is located next door to the 
university.  There is a book out about Bakst Ballets Russe costume designs. 
This past week, I purchased at Blockbusters a used DVD titled Ballet Russes. 
It is a history from the beginning of the company until the 1950s.  The only 
artist costumes shown was Matisse.  But the antique footage of the Ballets 
and the costumes is really nice.  If you are in the U.S. and would like to 
borrow the DVD, let me know off-list.  I don't know how hard the DVD is to 
find.

It was very popular for actresses to be photographed in their costumes.  In 
the late 1900s-1910s these can be seen in a photo postcard format.  There 
are also cabinet card photos from the 1890s-1900s.  I find them frequently 
at antique shows and at my favorite local antique publication shop carries 
them..

I purchased a Parisian illustrator's original rendering collection for plays 
from the 1890s-1902.  These renderings were also published in magazines, but 
I do not know which magazines.  They are stunningly beautiful and the colors 
are very vivid.  One day, I will get these renderings online.  It is quite a 
large collection.  Each plate has 5-6 of the character's costumes for French 
plays.

I have two antique books on theater costumes.  I can't locate them at the 
moment.  My office is torn apart in a reorganization project.  I got more 
bookshelves!!!  YIPPEE!!!  This project won't be completed until the end of 
November.  When I finish this project, I will post the names of the books to 
the list.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question re Robe a la Francaise
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 16:37:31 +0100
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Hi Suzi,
I have never seen any without a back piece. Also i dont think a dress 
without would fit propperly, the sides of the bodice needs support in the 
back.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 10:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Question re Robe a la Francaise


>
> A friend has asked me a question and I have answered, but would welcome 
> other comments.
>
> She asks if a Robe a la Francaise (sorry no proper marks) always has a 
> split and laced up back. Has anyone seen the inside of one that doesn't? 
> If so, are you able to give more information like pictures - always 
> supposing you have permission to share them? I would appreciate any help.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] OT - sources for plus size maternity clothes
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I'm sure the topic is a giveaway. :-)
   
  I am stumped as to where to find a good source of plus size maternity clothes including underthings. The maternity shops I have been to have virtually nonexistent plus size departments and the online sources are incredibly expensive! (hard to justify that sort of money for something that is only going to worn a short time). Not to mention I'm not particularly fond of most of the styles I have seen. The 'Big 3' have about 2 pages each of maternity patterns, and even the fall book styles look like summer clothes.
   
  I did find a few things on eBay that are cute, but the pants are too short. (I have a 34" inseam) Anyone know where I can find nice maternity clothes in the size 20 - 22 range - and that aren't styled for the under 30 crowd?
   
  Thanks,
  Annette (de-lurking before my regular clothes no longer fit)

 	
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Harmful Fabrics
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 10:35:49 -0800
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Don't fool yourself that there Were aniline dies.  They ARE still in use
today and probably in your home.  Many are used for the stains on wood right
up to the present.  Again, don't breathe the stuff.  Shucks, they tell you
not to breathe wood smoke because it is bad for your lungs!  They are right,
but that isn't going to make me give up my nice pine or cedar wood
campfires, marshmallows, hot dogs (you REALLY don't want to know what goes
into hot dogs...

Try Googling Aniline dye and see how much of it you have around you.  Be
careful, work in a well ventilated area.  Let your work dry thoroughly
before you use the piece.

Hundreds of compounds that scientists would have us shuddering under out
beds (not mine, I have dust bunnies under there that are a menace to
society) about.  The truth is that most can be used with care.  Others we
have found different compounds to do the thing.  White lead makeup comes to
mind.  Before someone goes off about the dangers of white lead and babbles
about what it did to Queen Elizabeth's complexion, remember she lived to be
70 with all the sickness and dangerous things she did as a matter of course.
Personally, I don't use white lead in my makeup, but I wonder what
scientists 400 years from now, or even 100 years from now will say about
Gatorade and some of the other things we drink as a matter of course.

Wanda
> sets.
>
>
>
>
> Well, there were all kinds of "aniline" dyes of various
> compositions, and
> many of them were probably nasty to use in the dyeing process,
> but not after
> they were fixed in the fabrics.
>
> Ann Wass
>

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Hi, sorry about this question, but i just wanted to know if this is the book 
that has pattern cuts in it?
Blanche Paynes A History of Costume?
http://tinyurl.com/yymkv5
Many thanks

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi, sorry about this question, but i just wanted to know if this is the 
> book that has pattern cuts in it?
> Blanche Paynes A History of Costume?
> http://tinyurl.com/yymkv5
> Many thanks

Not quite. You want the first edition dated 1965.

http://tinyurl.com/urx9e



Dawn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - sources for plus size maternity clothes
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At 08:54 AM 11/1/2006, you wrote:
>I'm sure the topic is a giveaway. :-)
>
>   I am stumped as to where to find a good source of plus size 
> maternity clothes including underthings. The maternity shops I have 
> been to have virtually nonexistent plus size departments and the 
> online sources are incredibly expensive! (hard to justify that sort 
> of money for something that is only going to worn a short time). 
> Not to mention I'm not particularly fond of most of the styles I 
> have seen. The 'Big 3' have about 2 pages each of maternity 
> patterns, and even the fall book styles look like summer clothes.
>
>   I did find a few things on eBay that are cute, but the pants are 
> too short. (I have a 34" inseam) Anyone know where I can find nice 
> maternity clothes in the size 20 - 22 range - and that aren't 
> styled for the under 30 crowd?
>
>   Thanks,
>   Annette (de-lurking before my regular clothes no longer fit)

Where are you located?  Here in Sacramento I like to go to Irene's on 
Arden Way.  I have not looked at any maternity clothes, though; I'm 
past that stage of my life.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - sources for plus size maternity clothes
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In a message dated 11/1/2006 3:33:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kahlara@yahoo.com writes:

I did  find a few things on eBay that are cute, but the pants are too short. 
(I have  a 34" inseam) Anyone know where I can find nice maternity clothes in 
the size  20 - 22 range - and that aren't styled for the under 30  crowd?



I checked Lane Bryant on-line, but their pants are also too  short--29".  
Don't know how long you can hold out, but the official Lane  Bryant site says 
their new shop is coming Nov. 20.
 
Try some more Googling.  I just found this, for example:
 
_http://www.momshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=1364_ 
(http://www.momshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=1364) 
These pants come up to size 26, but only to 18 in tall, and the price is  
about $30.  I just Googled "maternity wear" and "plus sizes."
 
Also got a hit at JC Penney--check them out.
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] odd questions
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I am reading Amanda Foreman's novel "Georgiana Duchesse of Devonshire." and
i enjoy it very much. Its full of fashionable details.
I stumbled about this quotation about "false fronts" wich i dont think i
know anything about. Does any of you?

In the sanctuary og Devonshire House the two women amused themselves by
experimenting with new hats and drawing patterns for dresses. The fashion
for false hips and bottoms made of cork to round out the figure, and padded
breast to fill out the bodice had ben in vogue since the 1770s. Georgiana
added a new element: the false front to disguise pregnancy. She showed her
design to her friends; they were so well received that the false fronts were
soon worn even by women who were not pregnant. Georgiana was also
responsible for the unprecedented sales of the "picture hat": wide brimmed
hats, worn with a large sash and adorned with drooping feathers. She had
posed in one of her own design, perching it stylishly on the side of her
head, for her portrait by Gainsborough. After he exhibited the painting,
women up and down the country ordered their milliners to make them a copy of
the "Duchesse of Devonshire's" picture hat.

Also in my making of the Kyoto Stays 1780 i wonder about the pronounsed
front. The bustline is quite wide and off the natural breast. Could this be
because a false breast improver was added?
http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm  , at the bottom.
How would such a thing be placed? was it over the breast, or under? Most of
the fashion that time, they used a fichu over the bust, mostly to emphasize
the shape.
Sorry about these peculiar questions, but i have no idea!
When you look at the picture of the Kyoto Stays in the book, it dont show,
that it has such a pronounced bustline, but this is mostly because it is
taken from the center front.
On my model (the blue) you can see that it either is made for a very endoved
lady, or because it want to improve the fashionable look.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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In a message dated 11/1/2006 1:55:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wandap@hevanet.com writes:

They ARE  still in use
today and probably in your home.  Many are used for the  stains on wood right
up to the present. 


I think they have largely been replaced in textiles, though, but primarily  
because of water pollution and such, not toxicity to wearers.
 
Ann Wass
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     It does have some patterns in the back.  This was my forst costume
history book (college textbook) and I've made a couple of things from
those pattern drafts.  :-D

     -Carol


> Hi, sorry about this question, but i just wanted to know if this is the
> book that has pattern cuts in it?
> Blanche Paynes A History of Costume?
> http://tinyurl.com/yymkv5
> Many thanks
>
> Bjarne


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Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>:

> Hi, sorry about this question, but i just wanted to know if this is the
> book that has pattern cuts in it?
> Blanche Paynes A History of Costume?
> http://tinyurl.com/yymkv5
> Many thanks
>

Unless somebody beats me to it, I'll check when I get home, Bjarne.   
I've got a copy that does have the patterns in it.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: [h-cost] More related books
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Also published by Academic Press:

http://books.elsevier.com


      A Handbook of Costume Drawing (2nd Edition)
      A Guide to Drawing the Period Figure for Costume Design Students  Georgia Baker  $49.95    0-240-80403-1  
      A Practical Guide to Costume Mounting  Lara Flecker  $70.95    0-7506-6830-X  
      Character Costume Figure Drawing 
      Step-by-Step Drawing Methods for Theatre Costume Designers  Tan Huaixiang  $39.95    0-240-80534-8  
      Costume Design  Deborah Nadoolman Landis  $43.95    0-240-80590-9  
      Make-Up, Hair and Costume for Film and Television  Jan Musgrove  $28.95    0-240-51660-5  
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From: "Danielle M. Dewey" <trixiepixie.trouble@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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Hello all...

My name is Danielle and I am more of a lurker here on this list.  My focus
is more medieval than anything else but I just got home from Marie
Antoinette and I was just wondering if anyone else noticed the converse
sneakers in one of the shots of her shoes?

Danielle


On 10/24/06, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:06:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> sylvia@ntw.net writes:
>
> How  accurate is it in terms of
> history, not  costuming?
>
>
>
>
> ********************
> Speaking, rather than not, of the costumes....
> Well, Adrian did them so as far as costumes go, they are spectacular,
> if  not
> accurate. He apparently used as much real 18th century lace as he
> could  get
> his hands on. If I remember rightly, Norma Shearer wears a number of  real
> diamonds in her hair, and they had to build a replica of the ballroom at
> Versailles...only BIGGER to accommodate the huge panniers. That's right,
> bigger....than Versailles.... well, it is Hollywood.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
*´¨)
¸.·´¸.·´¨) ¸.·*¨).
(¸.·´ (¸.·´ .·´
.·´ ¸.·*`·~»*~Danielle~*»~
(¸.·´
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] cabinet of vintage patterns
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Does anyone remember the company called the "Cabinet of Vintage
Patterns"?  It was a company that went out of business at least ten
years ago, maybe more like 15 who reproduced patterns a la the attic
copies that Past Patterns does.  I am interested in finding a copy of
their catalogue.  I had one but it seems I might have thrown it out.
Thanks.

Katy

-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question re Robe a la Francaise
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In a message dated 11/1/2006 10:41:36 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

I have  never seen any without a back piece. Also i dont think a dress 
without  would fit propperly, the sides of the bodice needs support in the  
back.



*********************************
 
I have seen one [well a drawing of one] with 3 ribbon ties across  the back 
under the pleats instead of back that laces  up.
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blanche Payne
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Hi Dawn,
Many thanks for the informations. I wil search for the 1965 edition then.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blanche Payne


> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
>> Hi, sorry about this question, but i just wanted to know if this is the 
>> book that has pattern cuts in it?
>> Blanche Paynes A History of Costume?
>> http://tinyurl.com/yymkv5
>> Many thanks
> 
> Not quite. You want the first edition dated 1965.
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/urx9e
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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We saw the movie last night, I missed them but my husband did see some
sneakers.

I can see why the movie was booed at Cannes.  Not a good movie, poor
music choices, scenes dragged in many spots, it didn't have the fun of
a Knight's tale.  There seemed to be no point to it for the most part
beyond the story of kids running the palace, very fluffy, some fun
costumes though, if you're not going for strict accuracy.

Katy

On 11/2/06, Danielle M. Dewey <trixiepixie.trouble@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hello all...
>
> My name is Danielle and I am more of a lurker here on this list.  My focus
> is more medieval than anything else but I just got home from Marie
> Antoinette and I was just wondering if anyone else noticed the converse
> sneakers in one of the shots of her shoes?
>
> Danielle
>
>
> On 10/24/06, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:06:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > sylvia@ntw.net writes:
> >
> > How  accurate is it in terms of
> > history, not  costuming?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ********************
> > Speaking, rather than not, of the costumes....
> > Well, Adrian did them so as far as costumes go, they are spectacular,
> > if  not
> > accurate. He apparently used as much real 18th century lace as he
> > could  get
> > his hands on. If I remember rightly, Norma Shearer wears a number of  real
> > diamonds in her hair, and they had to build a replica of the ballroom at
> > Versailles...only BIGGER to accommodate the huge panniers. That's right,
> > bigger....than Versailles.... well, it is Hollywood.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
> --
> *´¨)
> ¸.·´¸.·´¨) ¸.·*¨).
> (¸.·´ (¸.·´ .·´
> .·´ ¸.·*`·~»*~Danielle~*»~
> (¸.·´
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From: Irmgart <irmgart@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - sources for plus size maternity clothes
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Annette-

you may want to check http://maternity4less.com

I know they specialize in plus, tall, and petite. I saw at least a few
things in a 33" inseam (I know, not perfect but *way* better than the 29-30"
for most plus maternity), look in the "tall" section. The "plus" section
doesn't list inseam.

I'm in a similar boat: size 24 with a 32 1/2" inseam!

If you find anything else, please let me know (pref privately as this
doesn't really "go" on this list ^_^)

~Irmgart

On 11/1/06, Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I'm sure the topic is a giveaway. :-)
>
>   I am stumped as to where to find a good source of plus size maternity
> clothes including underthings. The maternity shops I have been to have
> virtually nonexistent plus size departments and the online sources are
> incredibly expensive! (hard to justify that sort of money for something that
> is only going to worn a short time). Not to mention I'm not particularly
> fond of most of the styles I have seen. The 'Big 3' have about 2 pages each
> of maternity patterns, and even the fall book styles look like summer
> clothes.
>
>   I did find a few things on eBay that are cute, but the pants are too
> short. (I have a 34" inseam) Anyone know where I can find nice maternity
> clothes in the size 20 - 22 range - and that aren't styled for the under 30
> crowd?
>
>   Thanks,
>   Annette (de-lurking before my regular clothes no longer fit)
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Everyone is raving about the  all-new Yahoo! Mail.
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Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 19:23:56 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Lectures on medieval costume at CC25, March 2007
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[I would be very grateful if people would forward this notice to other
suitable lists, particularly costuming lists as well as medieval
re-enactment group lists and SCA kingdom/regional lists. Theatrical
costumers and people doing academic study in medieval culture may also be
interested. Please copy me in on forwardings, so I know where this message
travels. Thanks.]

I'm delighted to announce that CostumeCon 25 will be sponsoring a full day
of my lectures on medieval clothing, on Saturday, March 31, in St. Louis,
Missouri.

I plan to give five lectures. In the morning, I'll do my most-requested
set, a pair of lectures on "The Gothic Fitted Dress" (a medieval fashion
known to many modern costumers as the "cotehardie") and "The Greenland
Gored Gown" (the style often called the "10-gore dress"). In the
afternoon, I'll do three more; I'm still working out the topics, but I'm
pretty sure I'll be doing one on using religious art for medieval costume
research, and either my lecture on the V-necked (Burgundian) gown, or the
one on the sideless surcote, or maybe both of those.

The convention itself runs March 30 through April 2. For those who don't
know, CostumeCon is a convention structured rather like a science fiction
con, but focused specifically on costuming: fantasy and sf, theatrical,
historical, re-enactment, cosplay, and more. There are panels, classes,
competitions, parties, vendors, and lots of interesting costume-oriented
people to meet and hang out with. The website is here:
http://www.cc25.net/

If you're interested in my lectures and also in the convention itself, you
can buy a full four-day membership for $95. If you're only interested in
my lectures, or if you can come only for one day, you can buy a one-day
membership for Saturday for $50. This will get you into my lectures as
well as all the other great programming on that day (including that
evening's science fiction/fantasy masquerade, a truly impressive show in
which costumers present their competition entries as performance pieces).
Registration for either full or one-day membership can be done online or
by mail.

The Netherton lecture series is open to any registered member, but to be
sure you can get a seat, you'll need to sign up specifically. You can do
this when you buy your membership, or -- if you've already registered --
you can send an e-mail to the planners. Details on the lectures, and how
to sign up, are here:
	http://www.cc25.net/netherton.htm

You can also buy a membership at the door, but I can't guarantee there
will be seats left for my lectures by then, so if you plan to go, I'd
advise you to send in your membership as soon as you can, and get on the
list. If you want a room at the convention hotel, it's wise to book early
for that, too.

Feel free to contact me or the convention staff with any questions.

--Robin Netherton


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - sources for plus size maternity clothes
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My husband works for JC Penney's.  He says they carry maternity wear in all 
sizes.  You have to look at their specialty catalogs.  They have a tall 
women section.  They do not call "plus" sizes, they have another name for 
it.  A vast amount of their catalog sales are for large women, especially 
bras.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lectures on medieval costume at CC25, March 2007
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I wish I could attend but have already made plans to be vendor at the Acadiana Medieval Faire in Lafayette, LA March 31, April 1, 2, & 3.
  Lady Von

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
  
[I would be very grateful if people would forward this notice to other
suitable lists, particularly costuming lists as well as medieval
re-enactment group lists and SCA kingdom/regional lists. Theatrical
costumers and people doing academic study in medieval culture may also be
interested. Please copy me in on forwardings, so I know where this message
travels. Thanks.]

I'm delighted to announce that CostumeCon 25 will be sponsoring a full day
of my lectures on medieval clothing, on Saturday, March 31, in St. Louis,
Missouri.

--Robin Netherton


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I just noticed that the Just My Size web site has half a dozen or more 
pieces of plus sized maternity wear on sale. Plus it's buy one, get one half 
price. Tees were $17. All maternity items were under $30, I think.

I can't find the original post requesting info, so sorry for the OT posting.

Denise
Iowa 

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Okay, if anyone's forgotten, I'm planning this hunting gown from the 1690s ( http://www.costumes.org/history/leloir/vol10/48_1692.jpg ), and I have another question. Do the skirts in this time pretty much follow the natural hip line, or are they still padded in the sides and back like in the 16th century? In other words, if I wanted to use a Tudor/Elizabethan petticoat under the skirt, and it had padded pleats, would the shape be wrong?
 
Tea Rose
 
 
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Hi,
You would have a little, very little padding at the hips, and then a bum on 
your back. They used small bustles made of pasted gum called "criardes" 
(screamers) because they made a little noise when moving :-)

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 7:26 PM
Subject: [h-cost] skirt shape in 1690


> Okay, if anyone's forgotten, I'm planning this hunting gown from the 1690s 
> ( http://www.costumes.org/history/leloir/vol10/48_1692.jpg ), and I have 
> another question. Do the skirts in this time pretty much follow the 
> natural hip line, or are they still padded in the sides and back like in 
> the 16th century? In other words, if I wanted to use a Tudor/Elizabethan 
> petticoat under the skirt, and it had padded pleats, would the shape be 
> wrong?
>
> Tea Rose
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Check out the new AOL.  Most comprehensive set of free safety and security 
> tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, 
> free AOL Mail and more.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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 Lovely.  That is just what I want to hear when I am walking down the street, my bustle hollering at everyone.
 
;-)
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Fri, 3 Nov 2006 1:54 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] skirt shape in 1690


Hi, 
You would have a little, very little padding at the hips, and then a bum on your back. They used small bustles made of pasted gum called "criardes" (screamers) because they made a little noise when moving :-) 
 
Bjarne 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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Status: RO


I saw the movie when it was released in France, and I did see the 
sneakers (though some of my friends miss them, too). I knew they were 
there, as it was discussed when the movie was screened in Cannes.
It's not an error, though, they are meant to be seen (they are pretty 
obvious, I guess) : I suppose they act as a reminder that the movie 
isn't historically accurate, and as a way to draw a parallel between 
Marie-Antoinette's life and our modern times... After all, macaroons 
aren't period either, and the movie is stuffed with small anachronistic 
details.

The movie was booed in Cannes, because it was greatly expected (Lost In 
Translation was a great success, and the shooting in Versailles had been 
covered by the medias) and failed to meet such high expectations. It is 
not a bad movie, but unfortunately, it isn't very good either...
 From a purely esthetic point of view, though, it is worth seeing.

Mathilde


Katy Bishop wrote:

> We saw the movie last night, I missed them but my husband did see some
> sneakers.
>
> I can see why the movie was booed at Cannes.  Not a good movie, poor
> music choices, scenes dragged in many spots, it didn't have the fun of
> a Knight's tale.  There seemed to be no point to it for the most part
> beyond the story of kids running the palace, very fluffy, some fun
> costumes though, if you're not going for strict accuracy.
>
> Katy
>
> On 11/2/06, Danielle M. Dewey <trixiepixie.trouble@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all...
>>
>> My name is Danielle and I am more of a lurker here on this list.  My 
>> focus
>> is more medieval than anything else but I just got home from Marie
>> Antoinette and I was just wondering if anyone else noticed the converse
>> sneakers in one of the shots of her shoes?
>>
>> Danielle
>>
>>
>> On 10/24/06, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:06:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>> > sylvia@ntw.net writes:
>> >
>> > How  accurate is it in terms of
>> > history, not  costuming?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ********************
>> > Speaking, rather than not, of the costumes....
>> > Well, Adrian did them so as far as costumes go, they are spectacular,
>> > if  not
>> > accurate. He apparently used as much real 18th century lace as he
>> > could  get
>> > his hands on. If I remember rightly, Norma Shearer wears a number 
>> of  real
>> > diamonds in her hair, and they had to build a replica of the 
>> ballroom at
>> > Versailles...only BIGGER to accommodate the huge panniers. That's 
>> right,
>> > bigger....than Versailles.... well, it is Hollywood.
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > h-costume mailing list
>> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> *´¨)
>> ¸.·´¸.·´¨) ¸.·*¨).
>> (¸.·´ (¸.·´ .·´
>> .·´ ¸.·*`·~»*~Danielle~*»~
>> (¸.·´
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Question about back lacing on an early frankish bliaut
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Hello - I don't post here often, but here goes:  What kind of lacing 
would an early Frankish (Charlemagne period) lady have used in the 
back?  Spiral, uneven, straight across, even?  Sorry my descriptions 
aren't more technical.  Would the lacing have been self-fabric, leather 
or something else?  Thanks, Julie
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about back lacing on an early frankish bliaut
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Around 800, when Charlemagne was crowned emporer by
the pope, nobody had any lacing anywhere, because the
gowns were too wide to require it.  
The waist line (or other smallest area on the tunic)
must be big enough to get past the largest area on the
top of the body, typically around the shoulders or
breasts .

Around 1200, when the bliaut had a brief flirtation
with being quite snug, the lacing appears to have been
on the sides.

And again around 1350, when the cote began to narrow,
the lacing was on the front, as far as we can tell. 
(This is Robin Netherton's special area, and she has
found quite a few pictures of partly laced gowns where
the lacing is in the front, and a grand total of Zero
where the lacing is in the back.)

I believe, though don't quote me, that back lacing
comes in with the corsetted era, somewhere around
1550.

Ann in CT

--- Julie Brautigan <jab@uwm.edu> wrote:

> Hello - I don't post here often, but here goes: 
> What kind of lacing 
> would an early Frankish (Charlemagne period) lady
> have used in the 
> back?  Spiral, uneven, straight across, even?  Sorry
> my descriptions 
> aren't more technical.  Would the lacing have been
> self-fabric, leather 
> or something else?  Thanks, Julie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



 
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Greetings--

Ann Catelli wrote:
> Around 800, when Charlemagne was crowned emporer by
> the pope, nobody had any lacing anywhere, because the
> gowns were too wide to require it.  
> The waist line (or other smallest area on the tunic)
> must be big enough to get past the largest area on the
> top of the body, typically around the shoulders or
> breasts .
>   
I wanted to second this observation.  The evidence we have for this 
period shows looser fitting tunics, usually belted, probably worn in 
layers.  Carolingian (which incidentally isn't early Frankish--that 
would be Merovingian, c. 500-750 or so) garments worn by the upper 
classes also consciously imitated "Roman" (aka Byzantine) styles--when 
Charlemagne was crowned as emperor, he adopted these styles over 
"Frankish" styles to drive home his claim to being a spiritual heir to 
the ancient Romans. You really see this even more during the Ottonian 
period, when there were dynastic marriages between West and East.

Susan
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>From the art I have viewed, it seems that English women's fashions in the 1840's were transitional between the gigot sleeves of the Romantic period and the fitted sleeve of the Victorians.  Does that sound correct? Does anyone have images that they can share for the 1840's, women's gowns and bonnets?  What fabrics would have been appropriate at different socioeconomic levels?  What colors? Both bonnets and gowns. :-)
  Thank you so much.
  Ann Morton


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] pattern shapes late 19th cent riding habits
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Hi everyone,
A recent discussion elsewhere got me curious about the shape of late 19th 
century riding habit skirts, I know that up until the 1870s riding habit 
skirts were usually regular skirts with a train to cover the feet when 
you're on the horse and then around the 1870s a new cut came in with a dart 
to accommodate the raised knee but I really can't visualise how it would be 
constructed. I know there are commercial patterns out there for habit skirts 
but I'm not interested in actually making one I just want to satisfy my 
curiosity as to how they would be constructed. Does anyone know of a period 
pattern diagram from the late Victorian era online? A search of my links 
turned up this 1912 'standard riding skirt' pattern 
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/1912thornton6.htm but I don't know 
how similar that would be to a co. 1870s-80s riding skirt.
thanks,
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1844 London fashion
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At 05:16 04/11/2006, you wrote:
> >From the art I have viewed, it seems that English women's fashions 
> in the 1840's were transitional between the gigot sleeves of the 
> Romantic period and the fitted sleeve of the Victorians.  Does that 
> sound correct? Does anyone have images that they can share for the 
> 1840's, women's gowns and bonnets?  What fabrics would have been 
> appropriate at different socioeconomic levels?  What colors? Both 
> bonnets and gowns. :-)
>   Thank you so much.
>   Ann Morton

I have several fashion plates from this period on my Fotopic site 
here http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/c382113.html

I apologise for the lack of order - I entered them in chronological 
order, but Fotopic shuffled them when I wasn't looking! I have more, 
I think, which have not made it to the site, so if you need more mail 
me off list.

Suzi 

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Subject: [h-cost] Costume-Con 25 Lecture Announcement
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Status: RO

FYI:

Costume-Con 25 is pleased to announce a special lecture track on Western
European clothing of the Middle Ages, to be held on Saturday only, March 31,
2007. Robin Netherton is co-editor of the academic journal Medieval
Clothing and Textiles. Founders of the study group DISTAFF, she and
co-editor Dr. Gale Owen-Crocker organize tracks of sessions on medieval
dress and
textiles each year at the International Congresses on Medieval Studies. Ms.
Netherton has lectured to sold-out houses in such cities as Boston, Seattle,
Philadelphia, Denver, Orlando, Portland, and San Jose. She also spoke at
CC21 in Chicago, in 2003.

This special all-day program track will begin the morning with her
well-known pair of talks on "The Gothic Fitted Dress" (a medieval fashion
known to many modern costumers as the "cotehardie") and "The Greenland Gored
Gown" (the style often called the "10-gore dress"). Two to 3 more lectures
will follow a lunch break (subjects to be announced in the near future).

The lecture series is open to all members of Costume-Con 25, however, you
are strongly advised to reserve your seat in advance, as seating will be
limited. You should indicate your wish to have your name on the list at the
time you register. If you are already registered, just drop us a line at
<mailto:slcg%40email.com>slcg@email.com.

If you are only interested in attending Ms. Netherton's lectures, you may
purchase a one-day membership ($50, available on-line), which also gives you
access to all the activities of the convention that day. You should be
aware that if you
choose to wait to purchase a one-day membership at the door, we cannot
guarantee that seats will still be available for the lectures.

For more info, or to sign up, visit www.cc25.net/netherton.htm.

Bruce Mai and Pierre Pettinger
Co-Chairs, Costume-Con 25

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Tailoring guidance request pass-along
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2006 12:44:57 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hello the list:

My sister-in-law has been doing costuming work in a community theater  
and is generally an intelligent, competent, detail-oriented  
seamstress. The theater does both contemporary plays and classics-- 
Victorian/Edwardian and '30s/'40s mostly, but once in a while '20s.  
For the period shows she likes to use period patterns when she can,  
and that's where she's running into frustration. I offered to seek  
help for her on this wonderfully helpful list.

Does anyone know a source--book, on-line instruction, or workshop  
(Connecticut area)--for guidance on tailoring and sewing techniques  
for these periods? She can usually dope out how to do what has to be  
done, or how to finesse it (this is theater, after all, not  
reenactment)--but that always takes more time than she has available,  
and she also always feels as if the garment would have come out  
better had she known what she was doing! Most particularly she runs  
into difficulty with trims and with the various kinds of insets and  
period-specific seam shapes. I don't think she's looking for patterns  
or designs, but rather instruction in materials and methods.

Any advice would be welcome. I've already told her the best advice  
would be to join the list and lurk, because eventually this kind of  
information will emerge in some discussion!...but so far she's been  
reticent....

Thanks--
Ruth Anne Baumgartner
gypsy scholar and amateur costumer


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tailoring guidance request pass-along
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Vintage sewing books online:
http://vintagesewing.info/

-E House
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tailoring guidance request pass-along
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So far I've published five books of Victorian and Edwardian historic 
patterns, which include dressmaking manuals or excerpts from them, 
and/or excerpts from period magazines that contain sewing information. 
Also one general book on historic sewing and on altering vintage clothes 
(some of the latter info is also applicable to theatrical costumes). 
Details are on my website, http://www.lavoltapress.com.

Another thing that might be helpful is advanced modern clothing design 
classes. When I formally studied clothing design, my couture sewing 
classes contained a great deal of info useful for the 
Victorian/Edwardian period, which I still use in making my own historic 
reproductions as well as of course my writing work.  However, as your 
sister-in-law seems to have already guessed, the sewing methods for 
different eras do vary, due to not only garment structure and technology 
(especially availability of the sewing machine), but custom.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming


Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
> Hello the list:
> 
> My sister-in-law has been doing costuming work in a community theater  
> and is generally an intelligent, competent, detail-oriented  seamstress. 
> The theater does both contemporary plays and classics-- 
> Victorian/Edwardian and '30s/'40s mostly, but once in a while '20s.  For 
> the period shows she likes to use period patterns when she can,  and 
> that's where she's running into frustration. I offered to seek  help for 
> her on this wonderfully helpful list.
> 
> Does anyone know a source--book, on-line instruction, or workshop  
> (Connecticut area)--for guidance on tailoring and sewing techniques  for 
> these periods?
<snip>
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Subject: [h-cost] BASIC SEWING PATTERNS FOR MEN
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Does the list membership know where one may obtain:
 1) Basic pattern drafts for large men,
 2) How to get the current US Bureau of Standards sizing for pattern drafting
please?

One man whom I costume for plays is 6'7" and 380, two others are about 6'3" and close to 300; I have on on the current production (thanks be its modern) is a 57" girth.
I'm tired of starting from scratch for these guys and would like to have some 'cheaters' on hand to expand from.
 Any advice will be appreciated.

Audrey Chase. 

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In a message dated 11/4/2006 6:52:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
achasedesign@peoplepc.com writes:

Does the  list membership know where one may obtain:
1) Basic pattern drafts for  large men,



Kwik Sew carries basic men's patterns up to XXL.  That might not even  be 
large enough for you.  Another thing that would be kind of a pain at  first, but 
once it was done might be helpful, is to find some old  clothes--either thrift 
store or from the guys themselves--to take apart and make  your own basic 
patterns from.
 
Ann Wass
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tailoring guidance request pass-along
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> Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
> > Does anyone know a source--book, on-line instruction, or workshop
> > (Connecticut area)--for guidance on tailoring and sewing techniques  for
> > these periods?
> <snip>

I'm particularly fond of Fred Struthers at RL Shep books.
http://www.rlshep.com/HTML/booklist.htm
Reprints of original patterns, tailors instructions, milinery guides.
I own at least a dozen.  Good stuff for Mid-Victorian and later.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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> Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
> > Does anyone know a source--book, on-line instruction, or workshop
> > (Connecticut area)--for guidance on tailoring and sewing techniques  for
> > these periods?
> <snip>

I'm particularly fond of Fred Struthers at RL Shep books.
http://www.rlshep.com/HTML/booklist.htm
Reprints of original patterns, tailors instructions, milinery guides.
I own at least a dozen.  Good stuff for Mid-Victorian and later.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2006 17:37:39 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto stays 1780
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Hi,
Just wanted to show you the Kyoto Stays i made. I made this cut authentic 
from the pattern in the book with no alterations, but i am afraid maybe the 
front is two wide. Ill make the lace holes, and then send it to the lady for 
a fitting.
I was making a big risk by trying the pattern without alterations, but it 
dosnt matter, i dont mind if i have to make a new front piece.
 http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto stays 1780
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At 08:37 AM 11/5/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Just wanted to show you the Kyoto Stays i made. I made this cut 
>authentic from the pattern in the book with no alterations, but i am 
>afraid maybe the front is two wide. Ill make the lace holes, and 
>then send it to the lady for a fitting.
>I was making a big risk by trying the pattern without alterations, 
>but it dosnt matter, i dont mind if i have to make a new front piece.
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm
>
>Bjarne

Very nice work, as usual.  I like the idea of making each piece of 
the corset separately and then putting them together (I know that 
that was the technique in period, it makes a lot of sense).


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2006 12:12:07 -0500
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] BASIC SEWING PATTERNS FOR MEN
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Past Patterns has some men's patterns in large sizes, including a
mid-19th century shirt up to 50" chest and paletot and vest patterns
up to 54" chest and  trousers up to 52" waist

I also hear they are planning on expanding their ladies' patterns over
the next few years to size 26!

Katy

On 11/4/06, AVC <achasedesign@peoplepc.com> wrote:
> Does the list membership know where one may obtain:
>  1) Basic pattern drafts for large men,
>  2) How to get the current US Bureau of Standards sizing for pattern drafting
> please?
>
> One man whom I costume for plays is 6'7" and 380, two others are about 6'3" and close to 300; I have on on the current production (thanks be its modern) is a 57" girth.
> I'm tired of starting from scratch for these guys and would like to have some 'cheaters' on hand to expand from.
>  Any advice will be appreciated.
>
> Audrey Chase.
>
> ________________________________________
> PeoplePC Online
> A better way to Internet
> http://www.peoplepc.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tailoring guidance request pass-along
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2006 15:46:19 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks to everyone who came to my sister-in-law's aid with replies.  
She says she now has good leads to follow up and appreciates the help.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Nov 5, 2006, at 1:19 AM, Cin wrote:

>> Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
>> > Does anyone know a source--book, on-line instruction, or workshop
>> > (Connecticut area)--for guidance on tailoring and sewing  
>> techniques  for
>> > these periods?
>> <snip>
>
> I'm particularly fond of Fred Struthers at RL Shep books.
> http://www.rlshep.com/HTML/booklist.htm
> Reprints of original patterns, tailors instructions, milinery guides.
> I own at least a dozen.  Good stuff for Mid-Victorian and later.
>
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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A friend sent me this link, her outfit(s) must have been one heck of a 
challenge for the costumer who created it.
www.youtube.com/v/RB-wUgnyGv0

--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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At 05:26 PM 11/5/2006, you wrote:
>A friend sent me this link, her outfit(s) must have been one heck of 
>a challenge for the costumer who created it.
>www.youtube.com/v/RB-wUgnyGv0
>
>--------------------------------------------
>Elizabeth Walpole
>Canberra Australia
>ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
>http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

Absolutely amazing!


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Aylwen & John Garden <garden@netspeed.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I've added a page to my website where people can sell their readymade or
used Regency gowns. I added a dress today - the link is
http://www.regencyreproductions.com/ready.htm

If anyone wants to add a garment to this page simply follow the directions
at http://www.regencyreproductions.com/prices.htm

Regards,
Aylwen Garden
http://www.regencyreproductions.com




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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2006 10:21:21 -0600
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According to Sophia Coppola the director of the film, MA was both booed
and cheered at Cannes. Apparently those most upset were the French
themselves who were expecting a biopic, faithful to Antonia Fraser's
biography and were appalled at  the casting, especially with everyone
keeping their own accents. Marie Antoinette with a California Valley
Girl accent!! Quelle Horrour!! Plus the French are still split in their
opinions on Marie Antoinette. 

I thought it was great fun and more open that it wasn't historically
correct in order to get its point across, than say, the 1938 Marie
Antoinette, starring Norma Shearer, that took great pains in pushing how
much behind the scenes work was done to make everything historically
correct, but looks like a 1930's Ziegfield Follies-inspired musical.

I'll buy the DVD when it comes out for the costuming on this MA, alone.
And there is sure to be an "extra" on the costumes in in.

Cindy Abel

 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1844 London fashion
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Suzi: Thanks for sharing the link to your illustrations. The 1798 and
1799 illustration you have is especially interesting, showing that the
"patrie" influence of the tricolour was still very evident in French
high fashion during the latter part of the Directorie and Counselete in
France.

Also by 1844, the gigot sleeves of the late 1820's and 1830's had been
reduced to the almost too-tight sleeves of the 1840's. This had filtered
down even to the lower middle classes by 1844. Several biographies of
Emily Bronte note that she continued to wear the narrower skirts(without
petticoats), with a higher, less restrictive bodice  of the earlier
1820s and the wider gigot sleeves of the late 1820's and early
1830's(although I doubt these were of the extremely fashionable
breath)long after they they had fallen out of fashion. When someone
criticized for it, she reportedly replied that she "wished to be as God
made me" At one time she chose fabric for a new dress that was patterned
in purple with a design resembling streaks of lightning. Wider sleeves
and narrower skirts were more practical for roaming the moors and doing
household tasks, as Emily did, than the more fashionable but restrictive
dresses of the 1840's. Some sleeves and bodices grew so tight, they
restricted movement

Cindy Abel 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 1:56 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1844 London fashion

At 05:16 04/11/2006, you wrote:
> >From the art I have viewed, it seems that English women's fashions
> in the 1840's were transitional between the gigot sleeves of the 
> Romantic period and the fitted sleeve of the Victorians.  Does that 
> sound correct? Does anyone have images that they can share for the 
> 1840's, women's gowns and bonnets?  What fabrics would have been 
> appropriate at different socioeconomic levels?  What colors? Both 
> bonnets and gowns. :-)
>   Thank you so much.
>   Ann Morton

I have several fashion plates from this period on my Fotopic site here
http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/c382113.html

I apologise for the lack of order - I entered them in chronological
order, but Fotopic shuffled them when I wasn't looking! I have more, I
think, which have not made it to the site, so if you need more mail me
off list.

Suzi 

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2006 15:24:03 -0700
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What would you say the point of the movie was?  I haven't seen it yet 
but I did see the PBS documentary on tv last night.  I really hadn't 
known much about the woman before and it would seem that she really 
didnt mature at all until she was incarcerated.  I hadn't realized she 
was imprisoned for such a long time before her execution.  It just 
seems to me that any story of her life is terribly incomplete without 
those last years.  Is there anything meaningful at all to say about her 
otherwise?  And if not, what exactly is the point of the movie?

Sylrog

On Nov 6, 2006, at 9:21 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:

>
> According to Sophia Coppola the director of the film, MA was both booed
> and cheered at Cannes. Apparently those most upset were the French
> themselves who were expecting a biopic, faithful to Antonia Fraser's
> biography and were appalled at  the casting, especially with everyone
> keeping their own accents. Marie Antoinette with a California Valley
> Girl accent!! Quelle Horrour!! Plus the French are still split in their
> opinions on Marie Antoinette.
>
> I thought it was great fun and more open that it wasn't historically
> correct in order to get its point across, than say, the 1938 Marie
> Antoinette, starring Norma Shearer, that took great pains in pushing 
> how
> much behind the scenes work was done to make everything historically
> correct, but looks like a 1930's Ziegfield Follies-inspired musical.
>
> I'll buy the DVD when it comes out for the costuming on this MA, alone.
> And there is sure to be an "extra" on the costumes in in.
>
> Cindy Abel
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Fw:'quick change artists'
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Wow.  Triple wow.  As I was watching this, I was thinking, "I hope the 
directors in my theatre dept. don't see this--they'll be asking me to 
make this stuff happen on our stage, and I can't figure out how they're 
doing it!"

Fun stuff.

Melanie Schuessler


Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> A friend sent me this link, her outfit(s) must have been one heck of a 
> challenge for the costumer who created it.
> www.youtube.com/v/RB-wUgnyGv0
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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In a message dated 11/6/2006 5:45:11 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

And if  not, what exactly is the point of the movie?



******************
 
 
Ca-ching, ca-ching? Perhaps?
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From: "Diane Maynard" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT Fw:'quick change artists'
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OMG ! !   I am stunned beyond words !  That was amazing !

Diane

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 7:27 PM
To: Historic Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT Fw:'quick change artists'

A friend sent me this link, her outfit(s) must have been one heck of a 
challenge for the costumer who created it.
www.youtube.com/v/RB-wUgnyGv0

--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] spats - where to find 'em
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Hey Costumers,
I've got a wierd question for you.  Some of the gents in a ragtime
dance group (circa 1910-1914) I perform with are interested in adding
spats to their outfits.  Too cute and no one could possibly want to
disuade them... except for the vinyl.  Uck.  I think the scariest URL
pointed to "while vinyl cowboy spats".
While the idea is amusing, the implementation disappointing.    Any
idea where to buy or mail order nice looking spats?
Thanks for you help!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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History in the Making has good quality spats.

http://www.historyinthemaking.org/catalog/online%20catalog02.htm


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Genie Barrett <maggie.gene@justinanimator.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Fw:'quick change artists'
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At 06:05 PM 11/6/2006, you wrote:
>Wow.  Triple wow.  As I was watching this, I was thinking, "I hope 
>the directors in my theatre dept. don't see this--they'll be asking 
>me to make this stuff happen on our stage, and I can't figure out 
>how they're doing it!"
>
>Fun stuff.
>
>Melanie Schuessler

My hubby did a bit of research.  He found that it's all in the closures...

Here's the direct link...

http://www.williamsmagic.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=16741

If that doesn't work, go to the main site -- 
http://www.williamsmagic.com/ -- and do an advanced search (upper 
right corner) for "costume change".  The book is called "Quick Change 
- Rapid Costume Changes for Men".  There are others available there as well.

have fun
Genie 

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Fw:'quick change artists'
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2006 08:20:26 -0700
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All us costumers are familiar with these tricks, at least some of them.  
  It would be interesting to get the book and see what ones we haven't  
considered.  What gets me about the video is that the woman's clothes  
look too well put together to have these kinds of quick change  
closures.  When I have had to use them in the past for breakaway  
clothing, it is pretty easy to tell where the velcro is, although from  
a distance I guess the audience can't tell.   and when it is happening  
so fast as with the magicians, it's even harder.  And of course, it  
takes a ton of rehearsing, probably a lot more than we usually have  
time for in the theatre.

Never the less, I might get the book.

Sylrog

On Nov 7, 2006, at 7:00 AM, Genie Barrett wrote:

> At 06:05 PM 11/6/2006, you wrote:
>> Wow.  Triple wow.  As I was watching this, I was thinking, "I hope  
>> the directors in my theatre dept. don't see this--they'll be asking  
>> me to make this stuff happen on our stage, and I can't figure out how  
>> they're doing it!"
>>
>> Fun stuff.
>>
>> Melanie Schuessler
>
> My hubby did a bit of research.  He found that it's all in the  
> closures...
>
> Here's the direct link...
>
> http://www.williamsmagic.com/index.php? 
> main_page=product_info&products_id=16741
>
> If that doesn't work, go to the main site --  
> http://www.williamsmagic.com/ -- and do an advanced search (upper  
> right corner) for "costume change".  The book is called "Quick Change  
> - Rapid Costume Changes for Men".  There are others available there as  
> well.
>
> have fun
> Genie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Basic Patterns forBig Men
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Status: RO

Thanks to those who responded with suggestions. I apologize for not making my needs clear. I can draft pajamas for elephants if need be. I'm just tired of having to start from scratch on these guys each time they are cast for anything that requires dress prior to 1850.
I always re-measure an actor for several reasons. In commercial patterns, usually based on the measures of the US Bureau of standards, Weights and Measures, I'm not finding sizes above 48. XL,XXL,XXXL are not consistent over brands. In order to draft Basic Patterns in sizes 50,52,54,56,58, and 60 current size charts are wanted.
Failing that commercial patterns are a substitute for my own but I can't find them, nor can I find the right address to get into Weights and Measures to download the charts.
When I make a custom fit for an actor my fit muslin usually ends up as garment lining ( we are low budget productions here) and besides these are not standardized; they are custom.
Anybody know the way to the Yellow Brick Road?
Audy.

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If these guys are going to repeat customers, might it
be possible to make a paper copy of your muslin?  Just
your basic body shape, especially for pants and
jackets. Then you would have a permanent base to start
from and can make style/period adjustments from there.

--- AVC <achasedesign@peoplepc.com> wrote:

> Thanks to those who responded with suggestions. I
> apologize for not making my needs clear. I can draft
> pajamas for elephants if need be. I'm just tired of
> having to start from scratch on these guys each time
> they are cast for anything that requires dress prior
> to 1850.
> I always re-measure an actor for several reasons. In
> commercial patterns, usually based on the measures
> of the US Bureau of standards, Weights and Measures,
> I'm not finding sizes above 48. XL,XXL,XXXL are not
> consistent over brands. In order to draft Basic
> Patterns in sizes 50,52,54,56,58, and 60 current
> size charts are wanted.
> Failing that commercial patterns are a substitute
> for my own but I can't find them, nor can I find the
> right address to get into Weights and Measures to
> download the charts.
> When I make a custom fit for an actor my fit muslin
> usually ends up as garment lining ( we are low
> budget productions here) and besides these are not
> standardized; they are custom.
> Anybody know the way to the Yellow Brick Road?
> Audy.
> 
> ________________________________________
> PeoplePC Online
> A better way to Internet
> http://www.peoplepc.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2006 10:14:59 -0800
From: Kevin Murakoshi <kevin.murakoshi@gmail.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Basic Patterns forBig Men
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I know this isn't much help, but while browsing the NIST NCSC (National 
Institute of Standards and Technology, National Center for Standards and 
Certification) webpage 
http://ts.nist.gov/Standards/Conformity/ncsci.cfm. It seems that the US 
Apparel standards have been withdrawn... On the Other hand the US Breau 
of Standards, Weights and Measures has been replaced by the above 
organization, so you can start there for information. On their webpage 
they have the sizing standards for young children, boys, girls, young 
men and women, nothing for men 
(http://ts.nist.gov/Standards/Conformity/withdrawnstds.cfm). You could 
try contacting them here: 
http://ts.nist.gov/Standards/Conformity/contact.cfm

If you don't mind spending money, you could try and obtain a copy of the 
ISO clothing size standards 
http://www.iso.org/iso/en/CatalogueListPage.CatalogueList?ICS1=61&ICS2=20&ICS3=&scopelist=, 
but they are far too expensive for my taste.

Hope this helps,

Kevin Murakoshi

AVC wrote:

>Thanks to those who responded with suggestions. I apologize for not making my needs clear. I can draft pajamas for elephants if need be. I'm just tired of having to start from scratch on these guys each time they are cast for anything that requires dress prior to 1850.
>I always re-measure an actor for several reasons. In commercial patterns, usually based on the measures of the US Bureau of standards, Weights and Measures, I'm not finding sizes above 48. XL,XXL,XXXL are not consistent over brands. In order to draft Basic Patterns in sizes 50,52,54,56,58, and 60 current size charts are wanted.
>Failing that commercial patterns are a substitute for my own but I can't find them, nor can I find the right address to get into Weights and Measures to download the charts.
>When I make a custom fit for an actor my fit muslin usually ends up as garment lining ( we are low budget productions here) and besides these are not standardized; they are custom.
>Anybody know the way to the Yellow Brick Road?
>Audy.
>
>________________________________________
>PeoplePC Online
>A better way to Internet
>http://www.peoplepc.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>

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Subject: [h-cost] iron corset
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I'm trying to find information on the iron corsets that show up in museum
collections and shocking costume- or corset-history websites.  Specifically, I'm
trying to track down sources for some of the information that is bandied about
(without references) online.  For example, is there any written evidence that
Catherine de Medici ever wore one, for example?  Are there documents regarding
her (supposed) insistance that the ladies of her court maintain a 13 inch waist?  
I've heard of an account of a 16th century doctor having one made as a back
brace, does anybody know where this came from?

Emma
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Basic Patterns forBig Men
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In a message dated 11/7/2006 10:28:39 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
achasedesign@peoplepc.com writes:

nor can  I find the right address to get into Weights and Measures to 
download the  charts.



Bureau of Standards changed its name quite a while ago to National  Institute 
of Standards and Technology--nist.gov.  Try that, and see if you  can find 
what you are looking for.
 
Ann Wass
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There's a picture of one here...but I don't think it was actually a corset -
a shop sign, perhaps. <g>

http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/4subjectsearch/lingerie/lingerie18t
h/lingerie18.html 

Quia Christus perpetuo regnat, 
Elisabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 10:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] iron corset


I'm trying to find information on the iron corsets that show up in museum
collections and shocking costume- or corset-history websites.  Specifically,
I'm
trying to track down sources for some of the information that is bandied
about
(without references) online.  For example, is there any written evidence
that
Catherine de Medici ever wore one, for example?  Are there documents
regarding
her (supposed) insistance that the ladies of her court maintain a 13 inch
waist?  
I've heard of an account of a 16th century doctor having one made as a back
brace, does anybody know where this came from?

Emma
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2006 14:37:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Galadriel Lothlorien <galadrielfinwe@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Fw:'quick change artists'
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Actually, it's not all smooth and nice.  Watch it
again.  She comes out and looks pretty thick around
the torso, especially compared to the last white
costume.  It's because there are several layers up
there.  Most actresses wouldn't want to be padded out
like that.  You can see them reaching for fasteners
several times, both the man and the woman.  Yes, it's
still amazing, but after having seen this several
times over the months, the methods are becoming less
and less mysterious.

Still, very entertaining, though!  And I'm happy that
it impresses the masses.

--Rachel



 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] iron corset ( long-ish)
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Status: RO


The story so far:

Here is the specific block of text that really got my curiosity up, this is
copied from en.wikibooks.org; it's one of the hits I got when I did a google
image search for "iron corset"

--copied text follows--

Iron corsets are Victorian Era corsetcovers made of metal. There are several in
museum collections.

It is sometimes claimed that these were the everyday wear of women and girls
throughout Europe in the sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries. But they are
more likely to be orthopedic instruments used by a very few women whose posture
was not considered acceptable by the health and beauty standards of the time.

    * It is likely that the Iron Corset was originally a type of armour worn
only by men.
    * The fact is as the "iron corset" was used both of men and women, but only
on dress occasions. The iron was heavy, but the dress was also heavy, and the
iron was padded underneath like armour. The silk of that time was very expensive
but of poor quality and stretched poorly. It looked beautiful on the shining
metal. The iron corset also worked as a bulletproof waistcoat, because
assassination by knife in heart was a common risk.
    * The padded "iron corset" and armour was known as a corset on women, and a
waistcoat (vest) on men.

--end copied text--

This block, or portions of it, is used on any number of websites.  I'd like to
know where these ideas came from. Not in this text is the idea that the iron
corset was invented by the de Medici's, or that Catherine wore one to achieve
her 13 inch waist, though that's another common theme.  The iron corsets I've
located so far are as follows: 
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/4subjectsearch/lingerie/lingerie18th/lingerie18.html
one in the sex machines museum (you have been warned)(not actually sexually
explicit) in the "sex machines gallary" http://www.sexmachinesmuseum.com
http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/RENAISSA.HTML near the bottom of the page.
This one is in the Cluny museum?
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Iron_corset two more, as well as
duplicates and drawings.
http://web.archive.org/web/20050302121500/http://greatdayamerica.com/style/fashion/lycracorset.shtml
http://www.staylace.com/unsortedjpgs/iron.jpg  I *think* this one is in the
Wallace Collection
http://www.csuchico.edu/~cheinz/syllabi/fall99/bendlin/page2.html  one new and
one repeat
and finally
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/13444/13444-h/13444-h.htm#page101
which is a facimile of a book published in 1920 which includes variations on the
de Medici comments.

I have some theories, any or all of which may be true.  I think some of the
corsets may have been shop signs or orthopedic devices.  I think some of them
might have been victorian reproductions or fetish objects.  (I have at least one
victorian "naughty" picture of a woman in an iron corset--it is a "medieval"
costume)  

I welcome any thoughts anybody else might have. 

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Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2006 23:50:52 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] iron corset ( long-ish)
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At 23:00 07/11/2006, you wrote:

>The story so far:
>
>Here is the specific block of text that really got my curiosity up, this is
>copied from en.wikibooks.org; it's one of the hits I got when I did a google
>image search for "iron corset"
>
>--copied text follows--
>
>Iron corsets are Victorian Era corsetcovers made of metal. There are 
>several in
>museum collections.
>
>It is sometimes claimed that these were the everyday wear of women and girls
>throughout Europe in the sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries. 
>But they are
>more likely to be orthopedic instruments used by a very few women 
>whose posture
>was not considered acceptable by the health and beauty standards of the time.
>
>     * It is likely that the Iron Corset was originally a type of armour worn
>only by men.
>     * The fact is as the "iron corset" was used both of men and 
> women, but only
>on dress occasions. The iron was heavy, but the dress was also heavy, and the
>iron was padded underneath like armour. The silk of that time was 
>very expensive
>but of poor quality and stretched poorly. It looked beautiful on the shining
>metal. The iron corset also worked as a bulletproof waistcoat, because
>assassination by knife in heart was a common risk.
>     * The padded "iron corset" and armour was known as a corset on 
> women, and a
>waistcoat (vest) on men.
>
>--end copied text--
>
>This block, or portions of it, is used on any number of websites.  I'd like to
>know where these ideas came from. Not in this text is the idea that the iron
>corset was invented by the de Medici's, or that Catherine wore one to achieve
>her 13 inch waist, though that's another common theme.  The iron corsets I've
>located so far are as follows:
>http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/4subjectsearch/lingerie/lingerie18th/lingerie18.html
>one in the sex machines museum (you have been warned)(not actually sexually
>explicit) in the "sex machines gallary" http://www.sexmachinesmuseum.com
>http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/RENAISSA.HTML near the bottom 
>of the page.
>This one is in the Cluny museum?
>http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Iron_corset two more, as well as
>duplicates and drawings.
>http://web.archive.org/web/20050302121500/http://greatdayamerica.com/style/fashion/lycracorset.shtml
>http://www.staylace.com/unsortedjpgs/iron.jpg  I *think* this one is in the
>Wallace Collection
>http://www.csuchico.edu/~cheinz/syllabi/fall99/bendlin/page2.html  one new and
>one repeat
>and finally
>http://www.gutenberg.org/files/13444/13444-h/13444-h.htm#page101
>which is a facimile of a book published in 1920 which includes 
>variations on the
>de Medici comments.
>
>I have some theories, any or all of which may be true.  I think some of the
>corsets may have been shop signs or orthopedic devices.  I think some of them
>might have been victorian reproductions or fetish objects.  (I have 
>at least one
>victorian "naughty" picture of a woman in an iron corset--it is a "medieval"
>costume)
>
>I welcome any thoughts anybody else might have.

I have always thought they could be early dress dummies - no boobs 
ones are easy to pad to shape.

Suzi 

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] iron corset
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2006 17:55:53 -0600
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http://tinyurl.com/e5zh6

-----Original Message-----
There's a picture of one here...but I don't think it was actually a corset -
a shop sign, perhaps. <g>

http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/4subjectsearch/lingerie/lingerie18t
h/lingerie18.html

Quia Christus perpetuo regnat,
Elisabeth


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] iron corset
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otsisto wrote:

>http://tinyurl.com/e5zh6
>
>-----Original Message-----
>There's a picture of one here...but I don't think it was actually a corset -
>a shop sign, perhaps. <g>
>
>http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/4subjectsearch/lingerie/lingerie18t
>h/lingerie18.html
>
>  
>

Nice collection... but they've got all their corsets laced the wrong way!

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] iron corset /kyoto stays
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Sorry for the strange subjekt. But i followed the link and found the stays 
pictured at this address:
 http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/4subjectsearch/lingerie/lingerie18th/lingerie18.htmlI was amazed, because this is the same cut as the Kyoto stays has. I ammaking these stays at the moment.Could it be that staymakers exchanged the patterns to eachother, or did theysimply copy eachother?I am wondering why they date the stays so early, the Kyoto stays are fromthe 1780ies, they are not fully boned, but they have the same cut! I fullyboned the stays.http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htmBjarneLeif og Bjarne Drewswww.my-drewscostumes.dkhttp://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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From: eirenetz@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Fw:'quick change artists'
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 00:54:21 +0000
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Well, it's a magic routine. It's not as simple as the clothing; there's obviously lot of skill involved in the performance. By the way, my husband the magician says that he is not only familiar with the video, he knows how they're doing it. And he's not telling. 

Eirene
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> Wow.  Triple wow.  As I was watching this, I was thinking, "I hope the 
> directors in my theatre dept. don't see this--they'll be asking me to 
> make this stuff happen on our stage, and I can't figure out how they're 
> doing it!"
> 
> Fun stuff.
> 
> Melanie Schuessler
> 
> 
> Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> > A friend sent me this link, her outfit(s) must have been one heck of a 
> > challenge for the costumer who created it.
> > www.youtube.com/v/RB-wUgnyGv0
> > 
> > --------------------------------------------
> > Elizabeth Walpole
> > Canberra Australia
> > ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> > http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Fw:'quick change artists'
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 01:24:28 +0000
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The closures may keep the fabric together, but the closures don't make the effect. Williams reveals enough about the tricks to sell the book, but not nearly enough to recreate either the costumes or the performance. In the magicians' community, revealing the secrets behind a trick is a violation of trust. If Williams wants to continue to sell to the community, they're not going to tell enough secrets to do the trick; to learn that you have to buy the book. Or three. 

Eirene the magician's wife

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Genie Barrett <maggie.gene@justinanimator.com>
> At 06:05 PM 11/6/2006, you wrote:
> >Wow.  Triple wow.  As I was watching this, I was thinking, "I hope 
> >the directors in my theatre dept. don't see this--they'll be asking 
> >me to make this stuff happen on our stage, and I can't figure out 
> >how they're doing it!"
> >
> >Fun stuff.
> >
> >Melanie Schuessler
> 
> My hubby did a bit of research.  He found that it's all in the closures...
> 
> Here's the direct link...
> 
> http://www.williamsmagic.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=16741
> 
> If that doesn't work, go to the main site -- 
> http://www.williamsmagic.com/ -- and do an advanced search (upper 
> right corner) for "costume change".  The book is called "Quick Change 
> - Rapid Costume Changes for Men".  There are others available there as well.
> 
> have fun
> Genie 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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Genie Barrett wrote:
>
> My hubby did a bit of research.  He found that it's all in the closures...
> 
> Here's the direct link...
> 
> http://www.williamsmagic.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=16741
> 

Thanks for the link.  After watching the thing several times, I do have 
a pretty good idea of how they're doing this.  It's still amazing, of 
course.  The real problem, upon reflection, is that reproducing these 
effects in a regular stage play might be problematic because of how 
they're done.

I agree with whoever was talking about the invisibility of the closures, 
but I think only the first couple are tearaways.  After that, they're 
all in really thin fabric and gathered artfully up into the bodice and 
then released--notice how her skirt gets longer and fuller as she goes 
along--and someone else already noticed that she gets thinner!

His change is perhaps the most impressive to me--that's not easy to do 
with suits and have the suits still look good.

Neat stuff!
Melanie

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] iron corset
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Status: RO

I have in my online library three images of two metal corsets for this 
period in chapter 4 of the following book.
Book info:
W.B.L. (listed author),The Corset and the Crinoline: A Book of Modes and 
Costumes, London: Ward, Lock, and Tyler, 1868.  This book is about the 
history of corsetry and crinoline.

Here is a paragraph from the book about the metal corsets from page 75:

"Several writers have mentioned the 'steel corsets' of this period, and 
assumed that they were used for the purpose of forcibly reducing the size of 
the waist. In this opinion they were incorrect, as the steel framework in 
question was simply used to wear over the corset after the waist had been 
reduced by lacing to the required standard, in order that the dress over it 
might fit with inflexible and unerring exactness, and that not even a fold 
might be seen in the faultless stomacher then worn. These corsets (or, more 
correctly, corset-covers) were constructed of very thin steel plate, which 
was cut out and wrought into a species of open-work pattern, with a view to 
giving lightness to them. Numbers of holes were drilled through the flat 
surfaces between the hollows of the pattern, through which the needle and 
thread were passed in covering them accurately with velvet, silk, or other 
rich materials. During the reign of Queen Catherine de Medici, to whom is 
attributed the invention of these contrivances, they became great 
favourites, and were much worn, not only at her court, but throughout the 
greater part of the continent."

Catherine's 13" waist is discussed in Chapter 4 and starts on page 72 and 
the discussion of the metal corsets follows:
http://www.costumegallery.com/Library/1868/CorsetBook/Chapter4/pages/p72.htm

This book is in our subscription area of the Library.  But you can view for 
no charge a detailed table of contents for the book at:
http://www.costumegallery.com/1868/CorsetBook/ .  There are ten chapters to 
this book; we have eight of them online.  Chapters 8 and 10 are being coded 
for the web at this moment.  The last part of this project is a complete 
index from the book and links to their respective webpages. The images for 
Chapter 10 are online.  There are 224 pages to this book and it has been a 
massive project two-year project of typing, html coding, and prepping the 
images.  Several people have worked on getting this book online.  Also a big 
honorable mention to our lifetime subscriber, Kathleen Mitchell, who loaned 
us the Corset book to put online.

The numbering of the pages may look strange.  The numbering of the webpages 
is exact to what is in the book. Each of the book images took up entire 
pages, these pages are numbered, thus the missing page numbers. I choose to 
put smaller images on the same webpage as where they mentioned in the text. 
Readers may click on the small image and view an enlargement on the text 
webpages.  Or you can view all the images via the image index per chapter 
from the table of contents.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] iron corset
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This from Valerie Steele's "The Corset: A Cultural History" (2001)

"There do exist in museum collections certain notorious iron corsets,
which are usually dated to about 1580-1600.  But were they really the
first fashionable corsets?  Modern scholars who have examined them
tend to believe that these metal corsets were probably orthopedic
devices designed to correct spinal deformities. - 'when they are not,
as is commonly the case, fanciful "reproductions".  There is no
evidence that they were worn by women as stays.' Instead, it seems
that two types of corsets appeared in the sixteenth century:
fashionable corsets created by tailors, which sometimes incorporated
metal as well as whalebone stays, and orthopedic corsets constructed
from plates of perforated metal, hinged at the sides, which were used
by surgeons."

Katy

On 11/8/06, Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> I have in my online library three images of two metal corsets for this
> period in chapter 4 of the following book.
> Book info:
> W.B.L. (listed author),The Corset and the Crinoline: A Book of Modes and
> Costumes, London: Ward, Lock, and Tyler, 1868.  This book is about the
> history of corsetry and crinoline.
>
> Here is a paragraph from the book about the metal corsets from page 75:
>
> "Several writers have mentioned the 'steel corsets' of this period, and
> assumed that they were used for the purpose of forcibly reducing the size of
> the waist. In this opinion they were incorrect, as the steel framework in
> question was simply used to wear over the corset after the waist had been
> reduced by lacing to the required standard, in order that the dress over it
> might fit with inflexible and unerring exactness, and that not even a fold
> might be seen in the faultless stomacher then worn. These corsets (or, more
> correctly, corset-covers) were constructed of very thin steel plate, which
> was cut out and wrought into a species of open-work pattern, with a view to
> giving lightness to them. Numbers of holes were drilled through the flat
> surfaces between the hollows of the pattern, through which the needle and
> thread were passed in covering them accurately with velvet, silk, or other
> rich materials. During the reign of Queen Catherine de Medici, to whom is
> attributed the invention of these contrivances, they became great
> favourites, and were much worn, not only at her court, but throughout the
> greater part of the continent."
>
> Catherine's 13" waist is discussed in Chapter 4 and starts on page 72 and
> the discussion of the metal corsets follows:
> http://www.costumegallery.com/Library/1868/CorsetBook/Chapter4/pages/p72.htm
>
> This book is in our subscription area of the Library.  But you can view for
> no charge a detailed table of contents for the book at:
> http://www.costumegallery.com/1868/CorsetBook/ .  There are ten chapters to
> this book; we have eight of them online.  Chapters 8 and 10 are being coded
> for the web at this moment.  The last part of this project is a complete
> index from the book and links to their respective webpages. The images for
> Chapter 10 are online.  There are 224 pages to this book and it has been a
> massive project two-year project of typing, html coding, and prepping the
> images.  Several people have worked on getting this book online.  Also a big
> honorable mention to our lifetime subscriber, Kathleen Mitchell, who loaned
> us the Corset book to put online.
>
> The numbering of the pages may look strange.  The numbering of the webpages
> is exact to what is in the book. Each of the book images took up entire
> pages, these pages are numbered, thus the missing page numbers. I choose to
> put smaller images on the same webpage as where they mentioned in the text.
> Readers may click on the small image and view an enlargement on the text
> webpages.  Or you can view all the images via the image index per chapter
> from the table of contents.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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	<003b01c702f9$3cde91c0$6400a8c0@momlaptop>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] iron corset
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] iron corset


>I have in my online library three images of two metal corsets for this 
>period in chapter 4 of the following book.
> Book info:
> W.B.L. (listed author),The Corset and the Crinoline: A Book of Modes and 
> Costumes, London: Ward, Lock, and Tyler, 1868.  This book is about the 
> history of corsetry and crinoline.
>
> Here is a paragraph from the book about the metal corsets from page 75:
>
> "Several writers have mentioned the 'steel corsets' of this period, and 
> assumed that they were used for the purpose of forcibly reducing the size 
> of the waist. In this opinion they were incorrect, as the steel framework 
> in question was simply used to wear over the corset after the waist had 
> been reduced by lacing to the required standard, in order that the dress 
> over it might fit with inflexible and unerring exactness, and that not 
> even a fold might be seen in the faultless stomacher then worn. These 
> corsets (or, more correctly, corset-covers) were constructed of very thin 
> steel plate, which was cut out and wrought into a species of open-work 
> pattern, with a view to giving lightness to them. Numbers of holes were 
> drilled through the flat surfaces between the hollows of the pattern, 
> through which the needle and thread were passed in covering them 
> accurately with velvet, silk, or other rich materials. During the reign of 
> Queen Catherine de Medici, to whom is attributed the invention of these 
> contrivances, they became great favourites, and were much worn, not only 
> at her court, but throughout the greater part of the continent."
>
<snip>
On the topic of 16th century Iron corsets I have heard it said that Eleanor 
of Toledo may have had an iron corset because she was very ill during the 
last few years of her life and she was wasting away, because her dressmakers 
couldn't take her clothes in fast enough to keep up with the disease's 
progress she was given a rigid metal corset to keep the shape of her gown 
even though she was several sizes smaller inside it. It came up in the 
context of the new Moda di Firenze book (is that the right title?) so maybe 
it's in there, then again it may have been from a different source.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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	<1162924545.4550d20177cf6@webmail02.unl.edu>
Subject: Books on Demand was :  [h-cost] iron corset
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Looking the 1869 Corset and Crinolines book in bookfinder.com, I came across several "ads" for books on demand printing.   http://tinyurl.com/y6cxn6<http://tinyurl.com/y6cxn6>   I had heard it would become a reality several years ago in an editing class I was taking, but didn't know it had done so.  Has anyone used this type of service?   What do you think?

Sg
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: 00217146@bigred.unl.edu<mailto:00217146@bigred.unl.edu> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 11:35 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] iron corset


  Emma
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Subject: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
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Thanks for the tips on where to find standard sizing. I can't afford it either. I'll just keep on as I have been.
An idea on the so tiny waistline. I don't think it was really so tiny for its time. Catherine was 14 years Elizabeth Tudor's senior. Elizabeth grew to be 4'10" and weigh approximately 85 lbs.  She was not considered undersized. Assuming that Catherine might not have been much larger, a thirteen inch waist would not have been much more than nicely neat and not the extreme it is today. The armor of French knights of mid -14th cent. would have been a squeeze for Elizabeth.
Audy

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At 16:21 08/11/2006, you wrote:
>Thanks for the tips on where to find standard sizing. I can't afford 
>it either. I'll just keep on as I have been.
>An idea on the so tiny waistline. I don't think it was really so 
>tiny for its time. Catherine was 14 years Elizabeth Tudor's senior. 
>Elizabeth grew to be 4'10" and weigh approximately 85 lbs.  She was 
>not considered undersized. Assuming that Catherine might not have 
>been much larger, a thirteen inch waist would not have been much 
>more than nicely neat and not the extreme it is today. The armor of 
>French knights of mid -14th cent. would have been a squeeze for Elizabeth.
>Audy

Where did you get the information about Elizabeth's size? I have 
always been given to understand that, as her genetic inheritance was 
Tudor/Plantagenet, and her forebears were tall, that she was at least 
of average height and build, and even for Tudor times, 4'10" is 
small. I am sure that there are descriptions from the Spanish 
Ambassador that give the lie to the size you quote - I don't have my 
Arnold to hand to find the exact wording.

Suzi 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
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Status: RO

13" waist?
 
Baloney!
 
If one is 9 years old maybe.
 
It is true that the average person was smaller then than the average person  
today....and it is also true that girls who grow up wearing corsets and such 
can  stand tight lacing more than girls who grow up in stretch fabrics. But the 
 difference is not that great. I mean a 20" or 21" waist I can see. But 13" 
is  just one inch more than a damn foot! A foot!  Plus the function of a  
corset in this period is not to synch in the waist. It's not the 1890's y'know!  
Its function is to create the proper smooth conical shape with the breasts  
compressed a bit. And why is Catherine using inches  anyway?
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
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On Wed, 8 Nov 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> >An idea on the so tiny waistline. I don't think it was really so 
> >tiny for its time. Catherine was 14 years Elizabeth Tudor's senior. 
> >Elizabeth grew to be 4'10" and weigh approximately 85 lbs.  She was 
> >not considered undersized. Assuming that Catherine might not have 
> >been much larger, a thirteen inch waist would not have been much 
> >more than nicely neat and not the extreme it is today. The armor of 
> >French knights of mid -14th cent. would have been a squeeze for Elizabeth.
> >Audy
> 
> Where did you get the information about Elizabeth's size? I have
> always been given to understand that, as her genetic inheritance was
> Tudor/Plantagenet, and her forebears were tall, that she was at least
> of average height and build, and even for Tudor times, 4'10" is small.
> I am sure that there are descriptions from the Spanish Ambassador that
> give the lie to the size you quote - I don't have my Arnold to hand to
> find the exact wording.

I second that question! A colleague of mine, in lecturing on Elizabethan
costume, liked to quote an account of Elizabeth mocking another woman by
demanding and then wearing her overly sumptuous dress ... which, being
significantly shorter on the very tall Elizabeth, was deemed unattractive
and never seen again. Of course the story might be apocryphal, but I
remember the wording of the quotation as sounding Elizabethan.

For that matter, I thought it was also a myth (disproved by burial and
other evidence) that 14th c. men (like the French knights mentioned below)
were significantly smaller than those of later periods. This topic comes
up occasionally when I lecture, so I would very much like to hear the
supporting information in case I have this wrong.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
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Status: RO

Not trying to be difficult, here, but no, not even on a nine year old (says this mom of five kids).

I knew the 13" number was ringing a bell for me, but it took a minute for me to remember why.

If you check medical charts that compare infants' weight, length and head circumference, you'll see that the measurement for a newborn's head circumference STARTS at 13".  

STARTS.  Like, the kids with the smallest heads who are at risk for microencephaly measure 13" at birth.  So picture the smallest, full-term newborn you have ever seen, and it's very likely that their little head was LARGER than this purported 13" measurement.

My grandson is not quite two.  He is only in the 30th percentile on weight because he's a skinny, bony little dude who is in perpetual motion.  We dress him in overalls because pants won't stay up on his non-existant hips and tiny little skinny waist.

He measures 20 inches at the waist.

LuAnn 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com<mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com> 
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 8:59 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure


  13" waist?
   
  Baloney!
   
  If one is 9 years old maybe.
   
  It is true that the average person was smaller then than the average person  
  today....and it is also true that girls who grow up wearing corsets and such 
  can  stand tight lacing more than girls who grow up in stretch fabrics. But the 
   difference is not that great. I mean a 20" or 21" waist I can see. But 13" 
  is  just one inch more than a damn foot! A foot!  Plus the function of a  
  corset in this period is not to synch in the waist. It's not the 1890's y'know!  
  Its function is to create the proper smooth conical shape with the breasts  
  compressed a bit. And why is Catherine using inches  anyway?
  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> 13" waist?
>  
> Baloney!
>  

Maybe the 13" was meant to be a hip-to-hip measurement, taken perhaps 
from a garment laying flat? A petite, yet grown, woman could have such a 
waist measurement.


Dawn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
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> Maybe the 13" was meant to be a hip-to-hip measurement, taken perhaps 
> from a garment laying flat? A petite, yet grown, woman could have such a 
> waist measurement.

While that is possible, the sources that reference a 13" waist are all talking
about circumference, and they don't actually cite their source for that
information.  (If somebody, anywhere, mentioned actually measuring something, I
would give the entire story much more credit.  But nobody does, that I've found.)
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From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
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This doesn't give waist measurements but it does give average heights. IF
super small waits were in fashion the portraits of the day would look wildly
out of proportion to us. I'm shorter than the average of the time you're
looking at and at my thinnest had a barely over 21" waist. Even is I had
been corset trained I can't imagine taking 8 inches off, my hips would have
jutted out like shelves!
http://www.plimoth.org/learn/history/myth/fourfttwomyth.asp

Beth Chamberlain

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From: "Elisabeth Doornink" <missdoornink@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 10:03:32 -0800
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Status: RO

Ditto that. I've measured quite a few people, mostly kids, and the smallest
girl I have ever measured was a 19" waist - she was a stick thin girl of
about 10. And very cut, if I may say so myself. :-) But I reassert - she was
really, really thin. My sister Steph is thin, and her waist is 21". 

Quia Christus perpetuo regnat, 
Elisabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of LuAnn Mason
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 9:50 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure

Not trying to be difficult, here, but no, not even on a nine year old (says
this mom of five kids).

I knew the 13" number was ringing a bell for me, but it took a minute for me
to remember why.

If you check medical charts that compare infants' weight, length and head
circumference, you'll see that the measurement for a newborn's head
circumference STARTS at 13".  

STARTS.  Like, the kids with the smallest heads who are at risk for
microencephaly measure 13" at birth.  So picture the smallest, full-term
newborn you have ever seen, and it's very likely that their little head was
LARGER than this purported 13" measurement.

My grandson is not quite two.  He is only in the 30th percentile on weight
because he's a skinny, bony little dude who is in perpetual motion.  We
dress him in overalls because pants won't stay up on his non-existant hips
and tiny little skinny waist.

He measures 20 inches at the waist.

LuAnn 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com<mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com> 
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 8:59 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure


  13" waist?
   
  Baloney!
   
  If one is 9 years old maybe.
   
  It is true that the average person was smaller then than the average
person  
  today....and it is also true that girls who grow up wearing corsets and
such 
  can  stand tight lacing more than girls who grow up in stretch fabrics.
But the 
   difference is not that great. I mean a 20" or 21" waist I can see. But
13" 
  is  just one inch more than a damn foot! A foot!  Plus the function of a  
  corset in this period is not to synch in the waist. It's not the 1890's
y'know!  
  Its function is to create the proper smooth conical shape with the breasts

  compressed a bit. And why is Catherine using inches  anyway?
  _______________________________________________
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Status: RO



Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> Looking the 1869 Corset and Crinolines book in bookfinder.com,

My friend Robb Shep reprinted that at one point, though I don't see it 
on his list now.

  I came across several "ads" for books on demand printing.
<snip>

Has anyone used this type of service?

There is something called print on demand, or POD, but it actually isn't 
"on demand." It is used by publishers rather than retailers or 
consumers.  It is used for short print runs, usually under 500 copies, 
but as far as I know, never for one or two copies. (The latter, BTW, 
_can_ be done, it's just really expensive.) The unit cost (the cost for 
one copy of a book) of POD is always higher than for offset printing, 
which makes the cover price significantly more expensive for consumers. 
  For over 500 copies, it's usually cheaper for everyone to use offset.

Current POD technology is based on laser printing, and most POD print 
services use fairly low resolution; meaning the quality is lower than 
for offset; particularly for illustrations and very much so for color 
printing. The other problem with POD printers is that unlike offset 
printers, they do not have the publisher check proofs every time they 
print, and they often send the books direct to the wholesaler or 
retailer who orders, not via the publisher.  This means that if they do 
something like omit a chapter or mix up pages with some other book--both 
of which I've heard of POD printers doing--no one will know till they 
read the book.

While offset printers are certainly capable of making printing and 
binding errors, because they do quality checks themselves and then send 
the publisher proofs--at several stages in the project--before shipping 
the books to the publisher, most of those errors are caught before a 
reader sees the book. (Unless it's a flawed but not _too_ flawed book 
that the publisher winds up selling as a discounted remainder, in which 
case the publisher probably accepted those copies after getting the 
printer to make a financial adjustment to compensate for the error.)

Bookstores dislike books marketed as POD because they are afraid the 
publisher will always be out of stock when they order. Getting a book 
through a POD service takes several months; it's no faster than using an 
offset printer, which also takes several months.  Book reviewers dislike 
POD due to the existence of several rather sleazy companies who offer 
additional publishing services such as editing, layout, and cover 
design, but who perform them badly; so those POD companies have become 
associated with exceptionally low-quality books.

In other words POD is currently considered a suboptimal printing method. 
  We do offset print runs, of about 5,000 books per print run.

I have always been dubious about the "POD in the bookstore" model 
because with the current equipment, I can't see getting your copy of the 
book in less than half an hour or so. That's longer than most people 
want to be in a checkout line; and if you multiply it by several other 
books you're buying, or several other customers ahead of you, well, no 
one is going to stand around waiting for their purchase to pop off the 
press.  Maybe you could call in ahead and go pick it up--but unless your 
need is same-day, in that case you might as well just order an offset 
copy off the Internet.

I do see a use for POD equipment, and it probably _is_ used, on site for 
large corporations wanting to produce short runs of user manuals, 
technical reports, and in short bound corporate publications that don't 
have to be too glitzy.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

What do you think?
> 
> Sg
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: 00217146@bigred.unl.edu<mailto:00217146@bigred.unl.edu> 
>   To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
>   Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 11:35 AM
>   Subject: [h-cost] iron corset
> 
> 
>   Emma
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Fourfoottwo myth; 1690 skirts
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Status: RO

 Thanks for posting that link, Beth! That was really interesting. The dead-at-forty thing is 

something I'm always arguing with people, too. Just because your life expectancy at birth was thirty-five 

doesn't mean thirty-five-year-olds had gray hair and hobbled around on canes! 



Bjarne, thanks for answering my question about the 1690 skirts. That was the answer I wanted to hear! :)



Tea Rose

=========================================================


Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 13:05:57 -0500
From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
This doesn't give waist measurements but it does give average heights. IF
super small waits were in fashion the portraits of the day would look wildly
out of proportion to us. I'm shorter than the average of the time you're
looking at and at my thinnest had a barely over 21" waist. Even is I had
been corset trained I can't imagine taking 8 inches off, my hips would have
jutted out like shelves!
http://www.plimoth.org/learn/history/myth/fourfttwomyth.asp

Beth Chamberlain




   
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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review 
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I received my copy this morning, and have spent most of the day reading 
it. I'm more impressed than I thought I would be. First, the quality of 
the book, the binding, the paper, and the photography, is very good. The 
first three chapters have a lot of pictures, some I've seen a lot of 
other places, and many I had not seen before anywhere else. The color is 
good and the photos are clear, even though most are less than 3" across.

The first part of the book is chock full of details and tidbits of 
clothing information taken from sources, covering things like the weave 
and cut of hose, foundation padding, hair dressing, the costs of 
different kinds of stockings, and the colors used for petticoats. Some 
of the text is footnoted with sources, some of it is not.  It rather 
rambles with no set direction, but it's interesting.

There is a useful table on period fabrics, and a short section on basic 
sewing techniques like buttonholes and pleats. However, this is not a 
beginner's book. You should have a moderate sewing ability, including 
being able to draft up the scale diagrams and alter them to fit you, and 
construct them with minimal directions. It will help immensely if you 
already have some experience with clothing from this period, because a 
lot of the instructions given are very scant, and if you don't know what 
it is supposed to look like, you'll be lost.

There's a page on how to fit men's hose, which might be useful to some 
people I know. However, there's also a picture of a man in hose with 
slashes above the knee, and no hint of how they're made. Obviously, 
there's slashes, but there's also some kind of lining which isn't 
explained. There's a number of other patterns which variations pictured 
-- some of which can be figured out by looking at other patterns, and 
some of which are again never explained. Mostly, it's sleeves.

The patterns cover a good spectrum, male and female, upper and lower 
class, Henrician and Elizabethan styles. I wish some of the accompanying 
photos of the modelled clothing were larger and showed more detail. 
There's directions for farthingales and rolls, ruffs and collars, and 
about ten hats and hoods. My main complaint about the patterns is they 
are mostly undocumented. There's nothing on them alluding to a source 
garment or painting used as reference. The few exceptions, like the 
loose kirtle, are already covered in Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_.

Finally, the models are all impossibly thin and the patterns are drafted 
for the size 12-14 range. If you are larger than that, and a lot of 
folks these days are, you are in for a lot of work.

Overall, I was pleased with the book. It's a good one-stop source for 
the 1500's if you're going to be doing recreation clothing. If you 
already have patterns or a wardrobe you don't *need* this book, but some 
of the reference photos might make it worth it. If you've never sewn 
anything before, this might be a little overwhelming and I would 
definitely brush up on basic sewing and fitting techniques or work with 
an experienced helper.


Dawn

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On Wed, 08 Nov 2006 12:03:41 -0600 Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> writes:
> AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > 13" waist?
> >  
> > Baloney!

Check out the Guiness Book of World Records. They have a tiny measurement
for a modern woman you and I would consider average-sized, but darned if
I can remember what the exact measurement was!

Arlys
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 17:49:53 -0500
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Status: RO

And she looks AWFUL !  Deformed, even!  I saw her on TV.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Nov 8, 2006, at 5:26 PM, Cynthia J Ley wrote:

>
>
> On Wed, 08 Nov 2006 12:03:41 -0600 Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> writes:
>> AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> 13" waist?
>>>
>>> Baloney!
>
> Check out the Guiness Book of World Records. They have a tiny 
> measurement
> for a modern woman you and I would consider average-sized, but darned 
> if
> I can remember what the exact measurement was!
>
> Arlys
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Subject: [h-cost] Corset Training for 13"
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I didn't see anyone post this, so I thought I would go ahead.  I do hope this is not considered off-topic; my apologies if so.  The 13" waist is achieved through a strict body modification process called "tightlacing" or corset training.  The measurement is taken just as you would for a regular waistline.  It is not a matter of being thin or petite.  It is a lifestyle enjoyed by both men and women.  (sorry I could not find info on the man I had in mind--he loves to wear interesting costumes)  Time and dedication are the key factors.  Although once the fashion, corset training is considered a fetish by most.  Extremely small waistlines have been found throughout history and most of the people I run into think it is a fluke, hoax, or someone got the history wrong.  Please think in terms of the social and cultural history of the time without preconceived modern notions.  You can't achieve the wisp waist by simply sucking in and tying off.  When trained, especially from childhoo!
 d as women once were, an adult could very well have a waistline close to the infamous, mysterious 13 inches which has been done by Ethel Granger.  Do I train? GOSH NO!  I just enjoy a corset every now and then.  Bellydancers let it out.  :O) 

Hope you find this helpful or at least fun to know, Sonja

Here are some links: 
http://www.staylace.com/gallery/gallery05/lillielangry/index.html 
http://www.victoriaspast.com/Corsets/modification.htm 
http://www.ethelgranger.com/   and   http://www.cathiejung.com/   
http://www.geocities.com/ther_over/comments.htm  Has an 1800's (I think) corset ad with a man. Please don't mind the downtime for Geocities.

 
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Status: RO


Thank you for sharing this.  A 13 inch waist is not impossible, but I'd be
interested in any pre-Victorian examples.  (I'm not sure the waist training
necessary for a 13-inch waist is possible with an Elizabethan-style corset. The
shapes are profoundly different.)

Emma

Quoting Sonja <sonja@louisiana.edu>:

> I didn't see anyone post this, so I thought I would go ahead.  I do hope
> this is not considered off-topic; my apologies if so.  The 13" waist is
> achieved through a strict body modification process called "tightlacing"
> or corset training.  The measurement is taken just as you would for a
> regular waistline.  It is not a matter of being thin or petite.  It is a
> lifestyle enjoyed by both men and women.  (sorry I could not find info
> on the man I had in mind--he loves to wear interesting costumes)  Time
> and dedication are the key factors.  Although once the fashion, corset
> training is considered a fetish by most.  Extremely small waistlines
> have been found throughout history and most of the people I run into
> think it is a fluke, hoax, or someone got the history wrong.  Please
> think in terms of the social and cultural history of the time without
> preconceived modern notions.  You can't achieve the wisp waist by simply
> sucking in and tying off.  When trained, especially from childhoo!
>  d as women once were, an adult could very well have a waistline close
> to the infamous, mysterious 13 inches which has been done by Ethel
> Granger.  Do I train? GOSH NO!  I just enjoy a corset every now and
> then.  Bellydancers let it out.  :O) 
> 
> Hope you find this helpful or at least fun to know, Sonja
> 
> Here are some links: 
> http://www.staylace.com/gallery/gallery05/lillielangry/index.html 
> http://www.victoriaspast.com/Corsets/modification.htm 
> http://www.ethelgranger.com/   and   http://www.cathiejung.com/   
> http://www.geocities.com/ther_over/comments.htm  Has an 1800's (I think)
> corset ad with a man. Please don't mind the downtime for Geocities.
> 
>  
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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Status: RO

Did the article Janet Arnold do on the Efigy corset give dimensions?    I remember asking Drea about it...hmmm..old brain condition prevents me from recalling.  I would think that you could work out a realistic height and waist measurement from that.  Otherwise, I have never heard specific weight and heights given for Elizabeth....I'd like to see this too.

Sg


  ----- Original Message ----- 


  Where did you get the information about Elizabeth's size? I have 
  always been given to understand that, as her genetic inheritance was 
  Tudor/Plantagenet, and her forebears were tall, that she was at least 
  of average height and build, and even for Tudor times, 4'10" is 
  small. I am sure that there are descriptions from the Spanish 
  Ambassador that give the lie to the size you quote - I don't have my 
  Arnold to hand to find the exact wording.

  Suzi 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset Training for 13"
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In a message dated 11/8/2006 6:40:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
00217146@bigred.unl.edu writes:

Thank  you for sharing this.  A 13 inch waist is not impossible, but I'd  be
interested in any pre-Victorian examples.  (I'm not sure the waist  training
necessary for a 13-inch waist is possible with an  Elizabethan-style corset. 
The
shapes are profoundly  different.)



**************
 
Yes! Like I said, the goal of a Renn. corset is not to synch in the  waist.
 
It all sounds like a post 19th century myth.
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Subject: [h-cost] Other resources for 1800's gown
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Status: RO

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone could point me to resources (books, etc.) which might help me find out more about this style of gown.  http://tinyurl.com/hzc6a<http://tinyurl.com/hzc6a>   I've been asked to make and under dress, head dress and gloves for it for the Phoenix Art Museum.

What I am specifically looking for are headdresses which would be worn and information which might tell me if the under dress for this gown would have been full length.  (I have seen some illustrations that would indicate you could see the lower leg of the woman under the outer dress - and the cut off of the under dress is visible.)

Also, does the train necessarily indicate that it was a court dress?

Oh and also what the gloves would have been made from?


 (I have all the standard pattern books, Waugh, Arnold etc. and the standard general histories of costume, Davenport, Payne, Boucher)  I just got this one through bookfinders:   The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire, 1789-1815)

Any others you would recommend?

Thanks for the pointers in advance,

Sg
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: re: [h-cost] iron corset
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Status: RO

There's a line in Eleanora di Firenza's accounts that shows she
ordered two.  One is in either the Bargello or the Palazzo Vecchio
collection in Florence.  I saw it last summer.  The docent there
claimed the steel corset was ordered as an orthotic, rather like a
backbrace.

Another is in the Italian Rennaissance exhibit at the V&A London.
This one I saw 2 weeks ago, tho I dont recall the owning organization.
Both of these corsets are steel.  The catalog for "At Home in the
Italian Rennaissance" states the corset is from the Museo Stibbert
collection, provenance unknown. The catalog says this corset is for a
65cm bust.

You'll find papers and original docs referenced in each of these catalogs.

I've never seen anything on iron corsets.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com


From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 10:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] iron corset


I'm trying to find information on the iron corsets that show up in museum
collections and shocking costume- or corset-history websites.  Specifically,
I'm
trying to track down sources for some of the information that is bandied
about
(without references) online.  For example, is there any written evidence
that
Catherine de Medici ever wore one, for example?  Are there documents
regarding
her (supposed) insistance that the ladies of her court maintain a 13 inch
waist?
I've heard of an account of a 16th century doctor having one made as a back
brace, does anybody know where this came from?

Emma
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>  
> **************
>  
> Yes! Like I said, the goal of a Renn. corset is not to synch in the  waist.
>  
> It all sounds like a post 19th century myth.

I'm beginning to think that myself. All the web sources seem to point 
back to _The Corset and the Crinoline_ from 1868. I bet they reprinted a 
Victorian era urban legend.

Does anyone have an actual copy of this book, who can check the 
footnotes? I've found an online version, but the notes are not given 
with the text.


Dawn

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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Other resources for 1800's gown
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I am constructing a dress simular to this one except my dress has princess front and squared neckline and a detatchable cape.
   
  This one is gorgeous.  Hope mine looks as good!
  Lady Von
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
  

Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
  Hi all, I was wondering if anyone could point me to resources (books, etc.) which might help me find out more about this style of gown. http://tinyurl.com/hzc6a I've been asked to make and under dress, head dress and gloves for it for the Phoenix Art Museum.

What I am specifically looking for are headdresses which would be worn and information which might tell me if the under dress for this gown would have been full length. (I have seen some illustrations that would indicate you could see the lower leg of the woman under the outer dress - and the cut off of the under dress is visible.)

Also, does the train necessarily indicate that it was a court dress?

Oh and also what the gloves would have been made from?


(I have all the standard pattern books, Waugh, Arnold etc. and the standard general histories of costume, Davenport, Payne, Boucher) I just got this one through bookfinders: The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire, 1789-1815)

Any others you would recommend?

Thanks for the pointers in advance,

Sg
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review 
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 16:59:18 -0600
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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A very excellent review, and yes the female models(which may be the
authors' themselves) are very thin. We should remember that these are
European authors and patterns, both who are slimmer than Americans.  I
might add that these patterns are scale ones so a projector  or graph
paper is a must in sizing these patterns up to "real scale"

What I liked most about the book was the inclusion of middle and lower
class clothing and the color swatches of 16th century colors. I'm
guessing that the authors presupposed that anyone that would want their
book would have already had read or owned Arnold's books and perhaps,
Jean Hunnisett's as well.

Cindy Abel  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 4:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review 

I received my copy this morning, and have spent most of the day reading
it. I'm more impressed than I thought I would be. First, the quality of
the book, the binding, the paper, and the photography, is very good. The
first three chapters have a lot of pictures, some I've seen a lot of
other places, and many I had not seen before anywhere else. The color is
good and the photos are clear, even though most are less than 3" across.

The first part of the book is chock full of details and tidbits of
clothing information taken from sources, covering things like the weave
and cut of hose, foundation padding, hair dressing, the costs of
different kinds of stockings, and the colors used for petticoats. Some
of the text is footnoted with sources, some of it is not.  It rather
rambles with no set direction, but it's interesting.

There is a useful table on period fabrics, and a short section on basic
sewing techniques like buttonholes and pleats. However, this is not a
beginner's book. You should have a moderate sewing ability, including
being able to draft up the scale diagrams and alter them to fit you, and
construct them with minimal directions. It will help immensely if you
already have some experience with clothing from this period, because a
lot of the instructions given are very scant, and if you don't know what
it is supposed to look like, you'll be lost.

There's a page on how to fit men's hose, which might be useful to some
people I know. However, there's also a picture of a man in hose with
slashes above the knee, and no hint of how they're made. Obviously,
there's slashes, but there's also some kind of lining which isn't
explained. There's a number of other patterns which variations pictured
-- some of which can be figured out by looking at other patterns, and
some of which are again never explained. Mostly, it's sleeves.

The patterns cover a good spectrum, male and female, upper and lower
class, Henrician and Elizabethan styles. I wish some of the accompanying
photos of the modelled clothing were larger and showed more detail. 
There's directions for farthingales and rolls, ruffs and collars, and
about ten hats and hoods. My main complaint about the patterns is they
are mostly undocumented. There's nothing on them alluding to a source
garment or painting used as reference. The few exceptions, like the
loose kirtle, are already covered in Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_.

Finally, the models are all impossibly thin and the patterns are drafted
for the size 12-14 range. If you are larger than that, and a lot of
folks these days are, you are in for a lot of work.

Overall, I was pleased with the book. It's a good one-stop source for
the 1500's if you're going to be doing recreation clothing. If you
already have patterns or a wardrobe you don't *need* this book, but some
of the reference photos might make it worth it. If you've never sewn
anything before, this might be a little overwhelming and I would
definitely brush up on basic sewing and fitting techniques or work with
an experienced helper.


Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Other resources for 1800's gown
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You might want to have a look at this collection of fashion plates 
http://hal.ucr.edu/~cathy/reg3.html the train certainly shows up on dresses 
worn for occasions other than court, but given the length of the train I'd 
still assume it was for a full dress occasion.
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 11:02 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Other resources for 1800's gown


Hi all, I was wondering if anyone could point me to resources (books, etc.) 
which might help me find out more about this style of gown. 
http://tinyurl.com/hzc6a<http://tinyurl.com/hzc6a>   I've been asked to make 
and under dress, head dress and gloves for it for the Phoenix Art Museum.

What I am specifically looking for are headdresses which would be worn and 
information which might tell me if the under dress for this gown would have 
been full length.  (I have seen some illustrations that would indicate you 
could see the lower leg of the woman under the outer dress - and the cut off 
of the under dress is visible.)

Also, does the train necessarily indicate that it was a court dress?

Oh and also what the gloves would have been made from?


 (I have all the standard pattern books, Waugh, Arnold etc. and the standard 
general histories of costume, Davenport, Payne, Boucher)  I just got this 
one through bookfinders:   The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to 
Empire, 1789-1815)

Any others you would recommend?

Thanks for the pointers in advance,

Sg


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From: Galadriel Lothlorien <galadrielfinwe@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset Training for 13"
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>
http://www.staylace.com/gallery/gallery05/lillielangry/index.html

That first photo looks modified on the left (her
right) at the waist.  Somebody posted a link here once
about modified old photos but I don't have it anymore.



As for iron corsets, if they were anything normal,
don't you think we'd have lots more of them in
existence?  I mean, they're IRON!  They don't
disintegrate.  I'm in the "medical purposes" camp as
far as those go.

--Rachel



 
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Jeeze, you know, I wish I still had some of the old research materials I used
for a film I worked on last century (last century, I love being able to say that)...

There are various kinds of these things around. Of the most common pics I've
seen are ones that are considered to be ceremonial or decorative wear -- not for
everyday use or combat,

-C.


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Galadriel Lothlorien wrote:

> As for iron corsets, if they were anything normal,
> don't you think we'd have lots more of them in
> existence?  I mean, they're IRON!  They don't
> disintegrate.  I'm in the "medical purposes" camp as
> far as those go.


But they do get melted down for war materiel along with a lot of other 
"old useless stuff" periodically.

For example, a lot of decorative ironwork got stripped off Victorian 
buildings in order to build ships for WW1. It can never be replaced.



Dawn


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> Does anyone have an actual copy of this book, who can check the 
> footnotes? I've found an online version, but the notes are not given 
> with the text.

I've got one coming.  It should arrive by the beginning of next week.  

Emma
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Luann,

I understand what you mean.  My grand-daughter is thin like yours and one 
year old.  She has food allergies.  She is very low in the percentile on the 
growth chart.  I just measured her and she has a 19" waist.  I have always 
thought the adult under 20" waist was a crock.  If you look at children's 
pattern sizes,  the waist sizes are larger than 19".
http://www.sewingpatterns.com/simplicity-charts2.html#babies

My DIL said her waist was 20" before having children and was a size 0.  She 
is very petite built.  When I was a teenager and very thin, I had a 24" 
waist.  I started sewing with patterns in third grade and do not recall my 
waist smaller.

The Valentine Museum has a lot of corsets in their collection and the 
smallest waist is one corset at 20".

OTOH, The Corset book I mentioned has a chapter that about small waists in 
the late 1700s or early 1800s.  The author took quotes from Parisian 
magazines/newspapers of young ladies writing the newspapers about their 
small waist sizes.  I took the chapter with a big grain of salt.  The author 
only does this in that one chapter.  His style of writing changes completely 
in this chapter.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 21:19:26 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] iron corset
In-reply-to: <edcaf0220611081604if2f3441ve1d3914d91805469@mail.gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Eleonora di Toledo used these (probably) in the early yaers of her infection
with TB (Circa 1550). She insisted on being out in public with her husband
Duke Cosimo I de Medici and she wore these under her gowns so her posture
would stay erect. It is possible that she was worried bad posture might set
off a coughing fit-- perhaps she did not wish to appear ill or weak.

Best regards-
Monica

Monica Spence



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 7:04 PM
To: h-cost
Subject: re: [h-cost] iron corset


There's a line in Eleanora di Firenza's accounts that shows she
ordered two.  One is in either the Bargello or the Palazzo Vecchio
collection in Florence.  I saw it last summer.  The docent there
claimed the steel corset was ordered as an orthotic, rather like a
backbrace.

Another is in the Italian Rennaissance exhibit at the V&A London.
This one I saw 2 weeks ago, tho I dont recall the owning organization.
Both of these corsets are steel.  The catalog for "At Home in the
Italian Rennaissance" states the corset is from the Museo Stibbert
collection, provenance unknown. The catalog says this corset is for a
65cm bust.

You'll find papers and original docs referenced in each of these catalogs.

I've never seen anything on iron corsets.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com


From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 10:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] iron corset


I'm trying to find information on the iron corsets that show up in museum
collections and shocking costume- or corset-history websites.  Specifically,
I'm
trying to track down sources for some of the information that is bandied
about
(without references) online.  For example, is there any written evidence
that
Catherine de Medici ever wore one, for example?  Are there documents
regarding
her (supposed) insistance that the ladies of her court maintain a 13 inch
waist?
I've heard of an account of a 16th century doctor having one made as a back
brace, does anybody know where this came from?

Emma
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TB is not just a lung disease; you can get tuberculosis of the spine.

Fran

monica spence wrote:
> Eleonora di Toledo used these (probably) in the early yaers of her infection
> with TB (Circa 1550). She insisted on being out in public with her husband
> Duke Cosimo I de Medici and she wore these under her gowns so her posture
> would stay erect. It is possible that she was worried bad posture might set
> off a coughing fit-- perhaps she did not wish to appear ill or weak.
> 
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review 
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 19:22:23 -0800
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I made a "Mary Tudor" dress using the book and was pleasantly surprised.
Nice french hood patterns.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 2:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review 


I received my copy this morning, and have spent most of the day reading 
it. I'm more impressed than I thought I would be. First, the quality of 
the book, the binding, the paper, and the photography, is very good. The 
first three chapters have a lot of pictures, some I've seen a lot of 
other places, and many I had not seen before anywhere else. The color is 
good and the photos are clear, even though most are less than 3" across.

The first part of the book is chock full of details and tidbits of 
clothing information taken from sources, covering things like the weave 
and cut of hose, foundation padding, hair dressing, the costs of 
different kinds of stockings, and the colors used for petticoats. Some 
of the text is footnoted with sources, some of it is not.  It rather 
rambles with no set direction, but it's interesting.

There is a useful table on period fabrics, and a short section on basic 
sewing techniques like buttonholes and pleats. However, this is not a 
beginner's book. You should have a moderate sewing ability, including 
being able to draft up the scale diagrams and alter them to fit you, and 
construct them with minimal directions. It will help immensely if you 
already have some experience with clothing from this period, because a 
lot of the instructions given are very scant, and if you don't know what 
it is supposed to look like, you'll be lost.

There's a page on how to fit men's hose, which might be useful to some 
people I know. However, there's also a picture of a man in hose with 
slashes above the knee, and no hint of how they're made. Obviously, 
there's slashes, but there's also some kind of lining which isn't 
explained. There's a number of other patterns which variations pictured 
-- some of which can be figured out by looking at other patterns, and 
some of which are again never explained. Mostly, it's sleeves.

The patterns cover a good spectrum, male and female, upper and lower 
class, Henrician and Elizabethan styles. I wish some of the accompanying 
photos of the modelled clothing were larger and showed more detail. 
There's directions for farthingales and rolls, ruffs and collars, and 
about ten hats and hoods. My main complaint about the patterns is they 
are mostly undocumented. There's nothing on them alluding to a source 
garment or painting used as reference. The few exceptions, like the 
loose kirtle, are already covered in Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_.

Finally, the models are all impossibly thin and the patterns are drafted 
for the size 12-14 range. If you are larger than that, and a lot of 
folks these days are, you are in for a lot of work.

Overall, I was pleased with the book. It's a good one-stop source for 
the 1500's if you're going to be doing recreation clothing. If you 
already have patterns or a wardrobe you don't *need* this book, but some 
of the reference photos might make it worth it. If you've never sewn 
anything before, this might be a little overwhelming and I would 
definitely brush up on basic sewing and fitting techniques or work with 
an experienced helper.


Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Other resources for 1800's gown
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On Wednesday 08 November 2006 7:30 pm, Voncile W. Dudley wrote:
> I am constructing a dress simular to this one except my dress has princess
> front and squared neckline and a detatchable cape.
>
>   This one is gorgeous.  Hope mine looks as good!
>   Lady Von
>   http://www.wildthangstreasures.com

I would love to check out your page, but I still can't make any of the links 
work....

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 23:35:06 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] iron corset
In-reply-to: <45529348.3080704@lavoltapress.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Eleonora had TB of the lungs. Contemporary commentators (Cellini, for
instance) talked and wrote about how she coughed and brought up blood. And
she was notoriously stubborn about accepting medical treatments. OTOH, She
daily drank a quart of mineral water from a thermal spring to help her. Not
that there was much they could do at the time...

Monica



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 9:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] iron corset


TB is not just a lung disease; you can get tuberculosis of the spine.

Fran

monica spence wrote:
> Eleonora di Toledo used these (probably) in the early yaers of her
infection
> with TB (Circa 1550). She insisted on being out in public with her husband
> Duke Cosimo I de Medici and she wore these under her gowns so her posture
> would stay erect. It is possible that she was worried bad posture might
set
> off a coughing fit-- perhaps she did not wish to appear ill or weak.
>
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] iron corset
References: <NJEJJAKCDDIJCJLBNKFIIEGMDLAA.monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Tuberculosis often spreads from the lungs to other parts of the body, or 
may first appear in other parts of the body.  These include the spine 
and other bones, meninges of the brain and spinal cord, kidneys, female 
reproductive organs, abdonminal cavity, skin, intestines, adrenal 
glands, blood vessels, and miliary TB, which means you have it 
throughout the body.

About a third of the world's population has latent TB, but if you live a 
healthy lifestyle, you have about a 90% chance of never developing 
active TB and of dying in old age of something else entirely. 
Pre-antobiotic treatments often consisted of doing things that we'd 
interpret as boosting the immune system--good food, lots of rest, and so 
on--and of making sure the patient breathed clean air. I think sometimes 
this managed to push the disease back into the latent stage.  Now they 
give you cocktails of about five or six drugs (I think usually only two 
or three of them at once), some of which have unpleasant side effects. 
The drugs usually push the disease back into the latent stage in only a 
few weeks, but it takes anywhere from six months to two years to kill 
all the bacteria.

The modern drug treatment for latent TB is about the same as for active 
TB. Usually they don't even bother treating latent TB except for 
high-risk patients.  My husband and I have both had it almost all our 
lives, and so probably have other members of h-costume, whether they 
know it or not. Latent TB is not contagious, and there is no way to tell 
whether someone has it without modern tests. The bacillus just sits 
there, and you notice absolutely no effects whatever.  Thankfully, the 
drug industry is trying to develop more effective drugs for it.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com



monica spence wrote:
> Eleonora had TB of the lungs. Contemporary commentators (Cellini, for
> instance) talked and wrote about how she coughed and brought up blood. And
> she was notoriously stubborn about accepting medical treatments. OTOH, She
> daily drank a quart of mineral water from a thermal spring to help her. Not
> that there was much they could do at the time...
> 
> Monica
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Lavolta Press
> Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 9:33 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] iron corset
> 
> 
> TB is not just a lung disease; you can get tuberculosis of the spine.
> 
> Fran
> 
> monica spence wrote:
> 
>>Eleonora di Toledo used these (probably) in the early yaers of her
> 
> infection
> 
>>with TB (Circa 1550). She insisted on being out in public with her husband
>>Duke Cosimo I de Medici and she wore these under her gowns so her posture
>>would stay erect. It is possible that she was worried bad posture might
> 
> set
> 
>>off a coughing fit-- perhaps she did not wish to appear ill or weak.
>>
>>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
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"13 inches"

I saw this figure (heh) quoted in the Guinness Book of World Records, FWIW, 
with the story of the Medici court.

==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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Forgot to add that there's a photo in there of a modern lady (the record 
holder) with a 13" waist. Her hips do, in fact, look like shelves. Eeww.

==================
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2006 07:40:46 -0600
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
References: <000f01c703ae$463ffd20$0300a8c0@bob3pc>
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Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:
> I made a "Mary Tudor" dress using the book and was pleasantly surprised.
> Nice french hood patterns.

I respectfully disagree with the French hood patterns in The Tudor 
Tailor.  Neither the fronts nor the falls/veils match the portrait and 
effigy record.

There is no indication in 16th-century images of the attachment across 
the nape of the neck that The Tudor Tailor includes as part of the front 
of the hood (what TT calls the "brim").  This shape is good for modern 
theatrical purposes because it's stable in the absence of the anchoring 
hairstyle that would have been underneath historically.

If you look at the excellent images from the 16th century that are 
included in the book, you'll see that the fall in the back of the hood 
is a flat tube hanging from the top of the head and that the back of the 
head is covered closely by something shaped more like a caul.  The 
patterns, however, show a fall shaped like a sleeve, which creates a 
different effect entirely.

Both "brim" and fall patterns are similar to the ones in Denise Dreher's 
_From the Neck Up_, an excellent theatrical millinery book from 1981.

Melanie Schuessler

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	While I have not as yet used this service, a very good colleague of
mine has, and he is extremely pleased with the service. He uses, and I
intend to use, Lulu.com. They also offer a distribution service, which is
one of the true battles of marketing your book.

	My understanding of the service, and from feedback from my colleague
(Paul Lima, http://www.paullima.com/ ), is that you only pay for the books
you order. When a bookseller places an order through Lulu's service, the
books are printed and shipped within two weeks. If you use PayPal as your
payment service, you are paid once a month. 

	You set the selling price of your book, and Lulu takes 20%
commission, plus the printing cost, which you know up front. So, say your
book costs $5.00 to print, and you decide on 100% mark-up (standard), then
you set your retail at $10.00. Lulu tacks on 20%, so $2.00, and sells the
book for $12.00. For every book you sell you get $5.00, your profit margin. 

	Their distribution service gets you listed with the biggies like
Barnes and Noble, and Amazon. There is no mention of Chapters/Indigo, but
apparently getting listed with them is relatively easy. So, with those three
alone, you're looking at distribution not only throughout North America, but
the UK and parts of the EU.

	So far he says he's very pleased with the service, and let me tell
you Paul's certainly not wet behind the ears, nor a push-over! Very savvy
fellow. And it's based upon his experience that I intend to use this route.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Subject: [h-cost] Colleges for studying costuming and fashion
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Has anyone come across any online sites that list colleges/universities 
that give degrees in fashion and/or MFAs in costume design or 
technology?  I want to share them with my students.

Sylrog

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Has anyone come across any online sites that list colleges/universities  
that give degrees in fashion and/or MFAs in costume design or  
technology?  I want to share them with my  students.

Sylrog

The USITT home page has a link with most of the  reliable colleges and 
universities in the area of costuming and costume  design.  Lots of good advice in 
choosing a school, too.  
 
Cheryl Odom, College of Santa Fe
 
_http://www.usitt.org/costume/survey/_ (http://www.usitt.org/costume/survey/) 
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Subject: [h-cost] iron corset
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Various iron corset resources; some you may know about already.  Thought it wouldn't hurt to give.  Just ignore this if it does help.  Museum of Man at San Diego's Balboa Park could help. "region's only museum devoted to anthropology-as well as arts, culture and scientific achievements"  http://www.museumofman.org/    The Met www.metmuseum.org had an exhibition in 2001-02 titled Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed which listed a rare 16th c iron corset.  The Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) www.fitnyc.edu   Craft Culture has a review on United Notions http://www.craftculture.org/review/speck3.htm   Bit of history: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_corsetry.htm#16th_Century_Iron_Corsets  

Contacting these places could result in a good lead.  Remember to ask the right questions.

> Subject: [h-cost] iron corset 
> 
> I'm trying to find information on the iron corsets that show up in museum 
> collections and shocking costume- or corset-history websites.   Specifically, I'm trying to track down sources for some of the information that is bandied about (without references) online. 

 
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume design degrees
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 09:22:48 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks for reminding me.  I had forgotten about that.

On Nov 9, 2006, at 8:40 AM, Cheryldee@aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone come across any online sites that list colleges/universities
> that give degrees in fashion and/or MFAs in costume design or
> technology?  I want to share them with my  students.
>
> Sylrog
>
> The USITT home page has a link with most of the  reliable colleges and
> universities in the area of costuming and costume  design.  Lots of 
> good advice in
> choosing a school, too.
>
> Cheryl Odom, College of Santa Fe
>
> _http://www.usitt.org/costume/survey/_ 
> (http://www.usitt.org/costume/survey/)
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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I'm sorry I don't have a site list, but Kent State does have a good
department of fashion.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 10:24 AM
To: Historical Costume
Cc: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] Colleges for studying costuming and fashion

Has anyone come across any online sites that list colleges/universities 
that give degrees in fashion and/or MFAs in costume design or 
technology?  I want to share them with my students.

Sylrog

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re: [h-cost] iron corset
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> There are various kinds of these things around. Of the most common pics I've
> seen are ones that are considered to be ceremonial or decorative wear -- not for
> everyday use or combat,
> 
> -C.

Speaking of decorative wear, another arguement given on these unreferenced sites
is that these are corset *covers*--has anybody seen illustrations of anything
like this being worn on the outside of clothing?  
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] iron corset
References: <edcaf0220611081604if2f3441ve1d3914d91805469@mail.gmail.com>	<1163034890.4552810aa4d76@webmail.netspace.net.au>
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For theatrical performances, perhaps?

Fran

00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:

> 
> Speaking of decorative wear, another arguement given on these unreferenced sites
> is that these are corset *covers*--has anybody seen illustrations of anything
> like this being worn on the outside of clothing?  

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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When I was 14 (5'2", 90 some pounds) my waist - sucked in, un-corseted
was 16" (that was in the days when small waists were a big item)

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 8:48 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure

Luann,

I understand what you mean.  My grand-daughter is thin like yours and
one 
year old.  She has food allergies.  She is very low in the percentile on
the 
growth chart.  I just measured her and she has a 19" waist.  I have
always 
thought the adult under 20" waist was a crock.  If you look at
children's 
pattern sizes,  the waist sizes are larger than 19".
http://www.sewingpatterns.com/simplicity-charts2.html#babies

My DIL said her waist was 20" before having children and was a size 0.
She 
is very petite built.  When I was a teenager and very thin, I had a 24" 
waist.  I started sewing with patterns in third grade and do not recall
my 
waist smaller.

The Valentine Museum has a lot of corsets in their collection and the 
smallest waist is one corset at 20".

OTOH, The Corset book I mentioned has a chapter that about small waists
in 
the late 1700s or early 1800s.  The author took quotes from Parisian 
magazines/newspapers of young ladies writing the newspapers about their 
small waist sizes.  I took the chapter with a big grain of salt.  The
author 
only does this in that one chapter.  His style of writing changes
completely 
in this chapter.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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 http://theatre.dal.ca/Academics/Costume_Studies.php
 Dalhousie Costume Studies Program, Halifax, Nova Scotia
 
 Sarah Paterson - alumnus

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> 
>> Has anyone come across any online sites that list colleges/universities 
>> that give degrees in fashion and/or MFAs in costume design or 
>> technology?  I want to share them with my students.
>> 
>> Sylrog
>> 
>
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If you just want to get something out there with your name on it, rather 
than publish commercially (in terms of quality, quantity, distribution, 
and profit), Lulu.com is fine.  I make a living from my business, so 
services such as Lulu.com are not an option.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

If you just want to get something out there cheap

Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:
> 	While I have not as yet used this service, a very good colleague of
> mine has, and he is extremely pleased with the service. He uses, and I
> intend to use, Lulu.com. They also offer a distribution service, which is
> one of the true battles of marketing your book.
> 
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
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Anyone know of any online shops where I can buy hammered satin?

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
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Status: RO

Wow.  That's a smaller circumference than a roll of toilet paper.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Rickard, Patty <mailto:RICKARPA@muc.edu>
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 6:57 AM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure


  When I was 14 (5'2", 90 some pounds) my waist - sucked in, un-corseted
  was 16" (that was in the days when small waists were a big item)

  Patty

  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
  On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
  Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 8:48 PM
  To: Historical Costume
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure

  Luann,

  I understand what you mean.  My grand-daughter is thin like yours and
  one 
  year old.  She has food allergies.  She is very low in the percentile on
  the 
  growth chart.  I just measured her and she has a 19" waist.  I have
  always 
  thought the adult under 20" waist was a crock.  If you look at
  children's 
  pattern sizes,  the waist sizes are larger than 19".
  http://www.sewingpatterns.com/simplicity-charts2.html#babies<http://www.sewingpatterns.com/simplicity-charts2.html#babies>

  My DIL said her waist was 20" before having children and was a size 0.
  She 
  is very petite built.  When I was a teenager and very thin, I had a 24" 
  waist.  I started sewing with patterns in third grade and do not recall
  my 
  waist smaller.

  The Valentine Museum has a lot of corsets in their collection and the 
  smallest waist is one corset at 20".

  OTOH, The Corset book I mentioned has a chapter that about small waists
  in 
  the late 1700s or early 1800s.  The author took quotes from Parisian 
  magazines/newspapers of young ladies writing the newspapers about their 
  small waist sizes.  I took the chapter with a big grain of salt.  The
  author 
  only does this in that one chapter.  His style of writing changes
  completely 
  in this chapter.

  Penny Ladnier,
  Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
  www.costumegallery.com<http://www.costumegallery.com/>
  www.costumelibrary.com<http://www.costumelibrary.com/>
  www.costumeclassroom.com<http://www.costumeclassroom.com/>
  www.costumeencyclopedia.com<http://www.costumeencyclopedia.com/> 

  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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If you squish it sideways it looks more believable.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of LuAnn Mason
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 3:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure

Wow.  That's a smaller circumference than a roll of toilet paper.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Rickard, Patty <mailto:RICKARPA@muc.edu>
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 6:57 AM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure


  When I was 14 (5'2", 90 some pounds) my waist - sucked in, un-corseted
  was 16" (that was in the days when small waists were a big item)

  Patty

  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com>
[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
  On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
  Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 8:48 PM
  To: Historical Costume
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure

  Luann,

  I understand what you mean.  My grand-daughter is thin like yours and
  one 
  year old.  She has food allergies.  She is very low in the percentile
on
  the 
  growth chart.  I just measured her and she has a 19" waist.  I have
  always 
  thought the adult under 20" waist was a crock.  If you look at
  children's 
  pattern sizes,  the waist sizes are larger than 19".
 
http://www.sewingpatterns.com/simplicity-charts2.html#babies<http://www.
sewingpatterns.com/simplicity-charts2.html#babies>

  My DIL said her waist was 20" before having children and was a size 0.
  She 
  is very petite built.  When I was a teenager and very thin, I had a
24" 
  waist.  I started sewing with patterns in third grade and do not
recall
  my 
  waist smaller.

  The Valentine Museum has a lot of corsets in their collection and the 
  smallest waist is one corset at 20".

  OTOH, The Corset book I mentioned has a chapter that about small
waists
  in 
  the late 1700s or early 1800s.  The author took quotes from Parisian 
  magazines/newspapers of young ladies writing the newspapers about
their 
  small waist sizes.  I took the chapter with a big grain of salt.  The
  author 
  only does this in that one chapter.  His style of writing changes
  completely 
  in this chapter.

  Penny Ladnier,
  Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
  www.costumegallery.com<http://www.costumegallery.com/>
  www.costumelibrary.com<http://www.costumelibrary.com/>
  www.costumeclassroom.com<http://www.costumeclassroom.com/>
  www.costumeencyclopedia.com<http://www.costumeencyclopedia.com/> 

  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/m
ailman/listinfo/h-costume>

  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/m
ailman/listinfo/h-costume>
_______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <45539277.6080300@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shopping conundrum
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Hammered satin?
could you explain what that is? Is it simple as, a satin wich has gone 
trough a hammer prosses?
What does it look like?

Sorry for all those stupid questions, i have never heard that name 
before.........

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adele de Maisieres" <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Shopping conundrum


> Anyone know of any online shops where I can buy hammered satin?
>
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres
>
> -----------------------------
> Habeo metrum - musicamque,
> hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
> -Georgeus Gershwinus
> ----------------------------- 
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 15:09:29 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
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On Thu, 9 Nov 2006, LuAnn Mason wrote:

> Wow.  That's a smaller circumference than a roll of toilet paper.

You must use different paper than I do! You got me curious and I measured
a fresh roll -- 13.25 inches around.

--Robin

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Are you looking for 100% silk, or will man-made fibers/blends do?

-E House

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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 10:34:39 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shopping conundrum
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hammered satin?
> could you explain what that is? Is it simple as, a satin wich has gone 
> trough a hammer prosses?
> What does it look like?
>
> Sorry for all those stupid questions, i have never heard that name 
> before.........



I have no idea how it's produced, but it has a slightly ripply surface 
texture that looks a but like hammered metal. 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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I got about 14.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 4:09 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure


On Thu, 9 Nov 2006, LuAnn Mason wrote:

> Wow.  That's a smaller circumference than a roll of toilet paper.

You must use different paper than I do! You got me curious and I
measured
a fresh roll -- 13.25 inches around.

--Robin

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E House wrote:

> Are you looking for 100% silk, or will man-made fibers/blends do?
>

Man-made is absolutely fine.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 14:15:51 -0800
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Status: RO

Mine's 17.25.  

LuAnn

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Robin Netherton<mailto:robin@shell.nightowl.net> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 1:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure



  On Thu, 9 Nov 2006, LuAnn Mason wrote:

  > Wow.  That's a smaller circumference than a roll of toilet paper.

  You must use different paper than I do! You got me curious and I measured
  a fresh roll -- 13.25 inches around.

  --Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 16:25:14 -0600
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One thing to keep in mind when comparing tiny waist measurements to young 
girls is the effects of puberty on baby fat.  The waist is relatively much 
larger in younger girls, and this sometimes translates into larger actual 
waist measurements before puberty; a 4'11" 10 year old will have 
dramatically different proportions from a 4'11" 20 year old.  Fat 
distribution changes with changes in hormones, on both sides--most 
post-menopausal women tend to be relatively thicker around the waist, not 
becuase of diet or lack of exercise, but simply because of how their bodies 
choose to distribute fat.

One of my younger clients, who was 12 last I measured her, was tall and 
skinny (~100 lbs, and already worried about dieting, poor thing) but had a 
relatively large 26" waist, with a bust around 31". I saw her recently at 
about 14, after her visit from the puberty fairy but before any noticeable 
increase in height/weight, and though I didn't measure her, I could see that 
her waist was smaller.  The same thing happened to me; my weight and height 
(I got tall young) changed very little, but my waist got smaller when my 
bust and hips got bigger.  I'm not saying that's universal or anything, but 
the general principle generally holds.

-E House 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shopping conundrum
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Here are a few places that have it in poly:
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=X065
http://dollarfabric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=3575
http://www.dazian.com/cgi-bin/page.pl?action=show_style&style_id=321&group_id=161&cat_id=44

-E House 

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Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2006 18:07:07 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Colleges for studying costuming and fashion
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Seton Hill University in Greensburg PA (near Pittsburgh) has a terriffic
Theatre program, http://www.setonhill.edu/o/index.cfm?PID=21&T1=1&T2=5&T3=0

the Art Institute of New York City, where I teach has a GREAT fashion
program!
http://www.artinstitutes.edu/newyork/programdegrees.asp?pid=6&dtid=7

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of SPaterson
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 3:12 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Colleges for studying costuming and fashion


 http://theatre.dal.ca/Academics/Costume_Studies.php
 Dalhousie Costume Studies Program, Halifax, Nova Scotia

 Sarah Paterson - alumnus

> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> Has anyone come across any online sites that list colleges/universities
>> that give degrees in fashion and/or MFAs in costume design or
>> technology?  I want to share them with my students.
>>
>> Sylrog
>>
>
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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 12:13:08 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shopping conundrum
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E House wrote:

> Here are a few places that have it in poly:
> http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=X065
> http://dollarfabric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=3575 
>
> http://www.dazian.com/cgi-bin/page.pl?action=show_style&style_id=321&group_id=161&cat_id=44 
>



Thanks for that.  I'm surprised by how limited the range of colours is. 


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Subject: [h-cost] World Record says 15???  was: Corset Training for 13"
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It just happens to be Guiness World Record Day...they showed a spot on the 
local news which showed the current world record holders waist has expanded 
from 15 to 20!


http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/records/human_body/extreme_bodies/smallest_waist_on_a_living_person.aspx

Hmmmm

Sg


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] World Record says 15???  was: Corset Training for
  13"
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At 04:59 PM 11/9/2006, you wrote:
>It just happens to be Guiness World Record Day...they showed a spot 
>on the local news which showed the current world record holders 
>waist has expanded from 15 to 20!
>
>
>http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/records/human_body/extreme_bodies/smallest_waist_on_a_living_person.aspx
>
>Hmmmm
>
>Sg

I must say I don't find her wasp-waist to be particularly 
attractive.  She looks like she might break in two in a high wind.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 18:28:09 -0800
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I don't know about the authenticity aspect, I meant the pattern came out
nicely, fit well, looked good. Sorry.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 5:41 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review


Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:
> I made a "Mary Tudor" dress using the book and was pleasantly surprised.
> Nice french hood patterns.

I respectfully disagree with the French hood patterns in The Tudor 
Tailor.  Neither the fronts nor the falls/veils match the portrait and 
effigy record.

There is no indication in 16th-century images of the attachment across 
the nape of the neck that The Tudor Tailor includes as part of the front 
of the hood (what TT calls the "brim").  This shape is good for modern 
theatrical purposes because it's stable in the absence of the anchoring 
hairstyle that would have been underneath historically.

If you look at the excellent images from the 16th century that are 
included in the book, you'll see that the fall in the back of the hood 
is a flat tube hanging from the top of the head and that the back of the 
head is covered closely by something shaped more like a caul.  The 
patterns, however, show a fall shaped like a sleeve, which creates a 
different effect entirely.

Both "brim" and fall patterns are similar to the ones in Denise Dreher's 
_From the Neck Up_, an excellent theatrical millinery book from 1981.

Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: OT - POD printers 
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Hi, Fran,

	I understand you make your living through your excellent
publications. However, I'm afraid I'm a bit confused about:
>If you just want to get something out there with your name on it, rather 
>than publish commercially (in terms of quality, quantity, distribution, 
>and profit), Lulu.com is fine.  

	Quality, well, my understanding through my contact is that the
quality is very good, because with Lulu you can choose exactly what type of
book you wish. All the parameters are listed on their website.

	Quantity: you're able to print 1, 100, 1000 or however many copies
you wish. Like all printers, the cost of printing reduces the more copies
you choose to print. Equally, if you purchase the distribution contact, they
print the extra 25 copies Amazon orders; that is, they print copies as
orders come in, and turn around is 2 weeks.

	Distribution: Lulu offers an excellent distribution contract. You
need to read it, I think, if you haven't already, and they offer the ability
to sell directly from their store as well. Again, my associate is earning
very respectable earnings since dealing with Lulu.

	I am sure there are quite a few PODs which offer inexpensive and low
quality printing. It would seem Lulu is not one of them. But, again, I am
basing my statements upon my colleague's experience.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Hi, Lorine,

It's not that I don't know anything about Lulu.com, or the other POD 
publishers. Or that I would never publish POD. I might consider it IF 
the print quality and price were equal to that of offset (requiring the 
invention and adoption of new equipment, which some of the manufacturers 
are striving to improve), and if the PO marketing image in the industry 
was better.

It's very seductive to new publishers to believe that they can publish a 
book without researching the industry and without learning new skills, 
print any number of high-quality copies for hardly any money, pay 
nothing for warehousing, market with no work, and make tons of money in 
the process. If all the glowing promises some POD sites and 
book-marketing gurus make were true, EVERYONE, from the megapublishers 
on down, would POD publish and sell only on Amazon.com and 
BarnesandNoble.com.

As things are, the industry as a whole considers these unsuccessful 
and/or hobbyist strategies, and with some reason.

Yes, some POD books do make it in the market.  Maybe your book will be 
one of them.  I'm not going to play dueling authorities with your 
marketing guru.  It's your money and your project.

Best,

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:
> Hi, Fran,
> 
> 	I understand you make your living through your excellent
> publications. However, I'm afraid I'm a bit confused about:
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure
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Status: RO

 Whatever. Either way, I think it is fairly apparent that none of us has ever seen any portraits of the oft painted Catherine with hips that look like shelves and a disproportionaly small waist. 
 
 Or are there some kinky paintings of her out there somewhere that I have somehow managed to miss in my scholarly studies?
    My opinion, which is only that, my opinion, is that based on the evidence we have it is highly unlikely that her waist was actually only 13 inches in circumference. I am throwing my opinion in the ring with the rest of us who believe that the 13" waist measurement for her was conjecture by an ill informed person or some romanticized Victorian thought. 
 
 If we had paintings of her that showed her with a silhouhette of a tightly corset trained woman who had been practicing waist training like some fetishists do, then I might be able to approach it a little differently. Ha, how many kids did she have? I don't know about any of the rest of you guys, but I have had 5, and I guarantee you that it is highly unlikely that she had 5 kids and wound up with a 15 inch waist, much less a 13 inch waist.
 
 Hey, maybe she had one of those iron corsets after all...
 
 There. Two burning questions answered.
 
 j/k
 
 ;-)
 
 ~Kimberley
  
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<snip>
> If you look at the excellent images from the 16th century that are
> included in the book, you'll see that the fall in the back of the hood
> is a flat tube hanging from the top of the head and that the back of the
> head is covered closely by something shaped more like a caul.  The
> patterns, however, show a fall shaped like a sleeve, which creates a
> different effect entirely.
>
<snip>
The Fall/veil is shaped like a sleeve because it's attached at the top of 
the shaped crescent (this is an interpretation that I support because all 
the images I've seen show a band of black at the top edge of the stiffened 
crescent and side views like this 
http://www.bergercollection.org/artwork_detail.php?i=37 also show the veil 
attached at the top of the crescent piece) and, like a sleeve, in order for 
it to fit into a vertical circle at the top and a horizontal circle at the 
bottom the top has to be curved. From memory the pattern does include a 
shaped brim for a caul to wear underneath, the only thing that's not 
directly indicated on the pattern is the size of the 'bag' part of the caul, 
which you could just transfer from the working class caul patterns. I 
haven't tried it yet and I'm somewhat disappointed that they don't have any 
indication of which hood fits which decade, as the diagrams aren't enough 
info for me to work it out without trying a mock-up.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colleges for studying costuming and fashion
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I teach fashion merchandising (BA) and fashion design (BFA) students at 
Virginia Commonwealth University.
http://www.pubinfo.vcu.edu/artweb/fashion/
They also have an undergraduate and MFA in costume design in the theater 
dept.  I took several undergraduate classes with the masters students. 
http://www.pubinfo.vcu.edu/artweb/theatre/

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 00:36:21 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find
	=?utf-8?b?wqAt?= =?utf-8?q?_The?= textiles)
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In case any of you are interested in purchasing the new book analyzing the 
Oseberg textiles, I just received the following e-mail.  I haven't decided 
how I'm going to respond yet.

Dear Cathy,

It is our understanding that you are interested in the following book

> Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find Â - The textiles) by Arne
> Emil Christensen and Margareta Nockert, Kulturhistorisk Museum (May 6th
> 2006), Universitetet i Oslo. 24 x 36 cm. 408pp. ISBN 82-8984-024-9.
> 
> Fred Struthers sent your information along as he would like us to process 
this
> order for you.
> 
> The cost would be $250.00. Please confirm that you are indeed interested in
> this publication.
> 
> Also please take a look at our website and let us know if you are interested
> in other books
> 
> www.nordicartbooks.com
> 
Best Wishes for a Happy Holiday Season,

Lena Torslow Hansen, Owner
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

ART CONSULTING: SCANDINAVIA
Books on Art & Architecture
3650 Cross Creek Road
Malibu, CA 90265-4946

TEL (310) 456-8762
FAX (310) 456-5714
www.nordicartbooks.com

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find
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On Fri, 10 Nov 2006, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> In case any of you are interested in purchasing the new book analyzing
> the Oseberg textiles, I just received the following e-mail.  I haven't
> decided how I'm going to respond yet.
...
> > Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find Â - The textiles) by Arne
> > Emil Christensen and Margareta Nockert, Kulturhistorisk Museum (May 6th
> > 2006), Universitetet i Oslo. 24 x 36 cm. 408pp. ISBN 82-8984-024-9.
...
> > The cost would be $250.00.

That seems more than a little excessive. When I inquired about the book
for possible review in MC&T, I was told it would be 1,090 NOK, which
equals 170 USD (at least today). That would have included shipping to our
reviewer in Denmark, but I can't imagine it costs 80 additional dollars to
ship to the US.

ISTR that Beth Matney, on this list, got a copy a while back. Perhaps it
is cheaper if you order direct from the museum?

--Robin


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find
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On Friday 10 November 2006 12:31 am, Robin Netherton wrote:
[snip]
> That seems more than a little excessive. When I inquired about the book
> for possible review in MC&T, I was told it would be 1,090 NOK, which
> equals 170 USD (at least today). That would have included shipping to our
> reviewer in Denmark, but I can't imagine it costs 80 additional dollars to
> ship to the US.

I suspect most of the difference is their markup.

>
> ISTR that Beth Matney, on this list, got a copy a while back. Perhaps it
> is cheaper if you order direct from the museum?

Cheaper, perhaps, but more difficult.  Beth was actually in Norway and could 
pay in the local currency.  They were not taking credit cards at that point.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 13:13:36 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] World Record says 15???  was: Corset Training for  13"
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Cathie Jung may have the official record, but here's the unofficial as far
as I know:
http://www.spook.dk/ (go to Past Corsets, then 14 Corset)
Warnings: 1) not a family-friendly site, and 2) Just Plain Wrong.
It looks like she's gone back up to 20, but it's Still Wrong.

Anyway, I haven't looked into the topic thoroughly, but I'm completely in
the "Victorians messed it up yet again" camp.  Apart from all the cultural
reasons that make it extremely likely for it to be a Victorian myth, there
are the iron corsets themselves.  Even without knowing the measurements,
compare them to Spook's photos--either the iron corsets are made for
someone about 3 feet tall with a 13" waist, or they're made for
average-sized adult with a reasonable waist measurement.

Take a look at a few extant or at least attributed 16thC iron corsets:
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Image:Ironcorset.png
http://www.geocities.com/technically_naked/1550_Italian_Steel_corset_red.jpg
http://www.staylace.com/unsortedjpgs/iron.jpg

Compare these to what the Victorians allege (well, in this case, a 1919
repetition of what the Victorians allege) was worn in C de M's time:
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/13444/13444-h/images/ill102.png
(and incidentally, skim through
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/13444/13444-h/13444-h.htm
if you feel that you really have too much hair, and would be best served
by removing some of it by hand in clumps.)

If I remember rightly, Valerie Steele's book has an image of a metal
(steel?) corset that almost perfectly matches this sketch, except with a
larger waist; she claims that it's a Victorian hoax, and I can certainly
see why, as it bears little resemblance to the more verifiable examples,
and much with Victorian metal-working techniques and tastes.

-E House, pro-corset, but not fond of tightlacing.

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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 13:51:15 -0500
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] World Record says 15??? was: Corset Training for 13"
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Status: RO

She looks gruesome in person, her face is so tortured.  I saw her
about 10 years ago at a Victorian ball.

Katy

On 11/9/06, Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
> At 04:59 PM 11/9/2006, you wrote:
> >It just happens to be Guiness World Record Day...they showed a spot
> >on the local news which showed the current world record holders
> >waist has expanded from 15 to 20!
> >
> >
> >http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/records/human_body/extreme_bodies/smallest_waist_on_a_living_person.aspx
> >
> >Hmmmm
> >
> >Sg
>
> I must say I don't find her wasp-waist to be particularly
> attractive.  She looks like she might break in two in a high wind.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
>
> _______________________________________________
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS: World Record says 15???  was: Corset Training for 
	13"
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> If I remember rightly, Valerie Steele's book has an image of a metal
> (steel?) corset that almost perfectly matches this sketch, except with a
> larger waist; she claims that it's a Victorian hoax, and I can certainly
> see why, as it bears little resemblance to the more verifiable examples,
> and much with Victorian metal-working techniques and tastes.

Ahh, good ol' Amazon; this book is searchable, and you can see the
image/read the text about it on page 5:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0300099533/ref=sib_dp_pt/104-3522253-6315913#reader-link
or http://snipurl.com/11v88
Also take a look at pages 2-6 (well, really, as far as the reader will let
you, since this is one of the few books on corsets I consider to be very
good).  For a closer look at some of those sketches on page 3, take a look
at:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Iron_corset

-E House
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Subject: [h-cost] 1860 leather gloves
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Hi,

I am looking for pictures of leather ladies gloves from around 1860.
I tried to find the on the Internet but I can't seem to find any.

Greetings,
       Deredere
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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 13:50:53 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene
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I have purchased books from both Fred Struthers and www.nordicartbooks.com 
. The last time I talked to Fred, he was hesitant to carry the book because 
of the expense and limited market.

I could not find the book on Lena's website, so you will probably need to 
email her, if you are interested.

I got the book by mail-order shortly after it was published, but it was 
difficult. I ended up sending the money to a friend in Norway who got it 
converted to Kroners and paid cash at the gift-shop for me. (I am VERY 
appreciate) At the end of the summer, we took our trip and I saw it for 
sale at both the Historical Museum and the Ship Museum. They would then 
take VISA or MC, but only in person (no mailorders). This we have found is 
fairly typical of Museums over there. (As me about the problems I had with 
an order from Germany sometime). If I remember right, the only other 
alternative that I could find was a wire-transfer from a bank. This adds 
significantly to the cost. I can send you more info (off list) if you want 
to do this.

FYI. I am taking the book with me to an SCA event in Hattiesburg, MS this 
weekend, if anyone is in the neighborhood.

Beth

At 12:52 PM 11/10/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 00:36:21 -0500
>From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find ?-
>         The textiles)
>
>In case any of you are interested in purchasing the new book analyzing the
>Oseberg textiles, I just received the following e-mail.  I haven't decided
>how I'm going to respond yet.
>
>Dear Cathy,
>
>It is our understanding that you are interested in the following book
>
> > Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find Â - The textiles) by Arne
> > Emil Christensen and Margareta Nockert, Kulturhistorisk Museum (May 6th
> > 2006), Universitetet i Oslo. 24 x 36 cm. 408pp. ISBN 82-8984-024-9.
> >
> > Fred Struthers sent your information along as he would like us to process
>this
> > order for you.
> >
> > The cost would be $250.00. Please confirm that you are indeed interested in
> > this publication.
> >
> > Also please take a look at our website and let us know if you are 
> interested
> > in other books
> >
> > www.nordicartbooks.com
> >
>Best Wishes for a Happy Holiday Season,
>
>Lena Torslow Hansen, Owner
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>ART CONSULTING: SCANDINAVIA
>Books on Art & Architecture
>3650 Cross Creek Road
>Malibu, CA 90265-4946
>
>TEL (310) 456-8762
>FAX (310) 456-5714
>www.nordicartbooks.com
>
>--
>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>


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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 16:00:37 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1860 leather gloves
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
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There is a Dutch website that has a few ... let me look for the url
when I get home tonight. :)

Chiara


On Fri, November 10, 2006 2:39 pm, Deredere Galbraith said:
> Hi,
>
> I am looking for pictures of leather ladies gloves from around 1860.
> I tried to find the on the Internet but I can't seem to find any.
>
> Greetings,
>        Deredere
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] What was that?  Kyle Minogue dress at fragrance debut
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Did anyone else catch the BBC news coverage of Kyle Minogue's new fragrance 
debut.  What was she wearing?




I found this very poor quality video


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 19:21:10 -0500
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On Friday 10 November 2006 2:50 pm, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> I have purchased books from both Fred Struthers and www.nordicartbooks.com
> . The last time I talked to Fred, he was hesitant to carry the book because
> of the expense and limited market.
>
> I could not find the book on Lena's website, so you will probably need to
> email her, if you are interested.

Yes.  Lena e-mailed me because I'd made my request to Fred originally.  I 
suspect that she would, however, sell a copy to other people who contact her 
directly, which is why I sent the e-mail to this list.


> I got the book by mail-order shortly after it was published, but it was
> difficult. I ended up sending the money to a friend in Norway who got it
> converted to Kroners and paid cash at the gift-shop for me. (I am VERY
> appreciate) At the end of the summer, we took our trip and I saw it for
> sale at both the Historical Museum and the Ship Museum. They would then
> take VISA or MC, but only in person (no mailorders). This we have found is
> fairly typical of Museums over there. (As me about the problems I had with
> an order from Germany sometime). If I remember right, the only other
> alternative that I could find was a wire-transfer from a bank. This adds
> significantly to the cost. I can send you more info (off list) if you want
> to do this.

Please do send me that information.  I've already told Lena I can't pay $250 
for it (and from what I've heard from a Norwegian friend who's seen it, I 
might not want to), but I might pay the Norwegian price.  Thanks.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 18:17:09 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: On Chopines
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H-costumers,
My new chopines have been finished for a month or so now.  They're
quite a challenge to walk in.   They've got their own webpage, too.
You can scroll thru and see how they were done.  My chopines are the
tall red ones.
http://AandS.org/raisedheels/index.html
I've started dancing in them, lately.  Mostly bassedanza & pavans.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com


On 9/7/06, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
> I was fitted for my new chopines last nite.  You can see a picture of
> the cork structure with the undyed footbed, and my fabric here:
> http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hysteria95126/my_photos
> The album is "Works in Progress". The chopines are part of the 2nd
> set. Woo-hoo I will soon ascend to the heights of fashion!
>
> BTW, ladies & gents, have you seen this?  There's a lovely yellow
> velvet 16th c chopine 360' view with zoom.  Look at the tooled leather
> footbed.  That's different!  The chopine's all covered in lace & silk
> ribbon bows. http://www.allaboutshoes.ca/en/heights_of_fashion/east_meets_west/
> This is the Bata Shoe Museum's new online catalog.  Oddly you cant get
> to All About Shoes from the Bata Shoe Museum's or the reverse.  It's
> new, and that's the reason, I suppose.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] World Record says 15??? was: Corset Training for 13"
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 20:08:14 -0800
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In the picture on the Guinness site, is she wearing a metal corset?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Katy Bishop
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 10:51 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] World Record says 15??? was: Corset Training for 13"


She looks gruesome in person, her face is so tortured.  I saw her
about 10 years ago at a Victorian ball.

Katy

On 11/9/06, Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
> At 04:59 PM 11/9/2006, you wrote:
> >It just happens to be Guiness World Record Day...they showed a spot
> >on the local news which showed the current world record holders
> >waist has expanded from 15 to 20!
> >
> >
>
>http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/records/human_body/extreme_bodies/small
est_waist_on_a_living_person.aspx
> >
> >Hmmmm
> >
> >Sg
>
> I must say I don't find her wasp-waist to be particularly
> attractive.  She looks like she might break in two in a high wind.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] World Record says 15??? was: Corset Training for 13"
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I think so I'm pretty sure I've read about it somewhere last time mythical 
waist sizes came up on one of my lists, but it's a corset cover not an 
actual corset there's a fabric corset underneath that actually gets her 
waist down to that size and then the metal corset cover is a decorative 
piece of jewellery to go over the top.
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 3:08 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] World Record says 15??? was: Corset Training for 13"


> In the picture on the Guinness site, is she wearing a metal corset?
>
<snip>>
>>http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/records/human_body/extreme_bodies/small
> est_waist_on_a_living_person.aspx
>> >
<snip> 

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It certainly looks like it, yes. Or at least a metal corset cover. (I think
there must be a laced corset underneath to cinch down the waist.  I don't think
you could use hinged metal to reduce the waist without pinching something tender) 
Emma

Quoting "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>:

> In the picture on the Guinness site, is she wearing a metal corset?
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On
> Behalf Of Katy Bishop
> Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 10:51 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] World Record says 15??? was: Corset Training for
> 13"
> 
> 
> She looks gruesome in person, her face is so tortured.  I saw her
> about 10 years ago at a Victorian ball.
> 
> Katy
> 
> On 11/9/06, Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
> > At 04:59 PM 11/9/2006, you wrote:
> > >It just happens to be Guiness World Record Day...they showed a spot
> > >on the local news which showed the current world record holders
> > >waist has expanded from 15 to 20!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/records/human_body/extreme_bodies/small
> est_waist_on_a_living_person.aspx
> > >
> > >Hmmmm
> > >
> > >Sg
> >
> > I must say I don't find her wasp-waist to be particularly
> > attractive.  She looks like she might break in two in a high wind.
> >
> >
> > Joan Jurancich
> > joanmj@surewest.net
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
> -- 
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 
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> 



http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] cloak clasps
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Greetings:-))
   
  Does anyone know some good source where I can buy some cloak clasps of reasonable prices and shipping? Preferably from the UK, because I'm from Europe.
   
  Thanks,
   
  Zuzana 

 
---------------------------------
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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cloak clasps?
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REPLY
   
  Gentle Lady Zuzana,
  from previous personal experience, I'd suggest you take a look at the online catalogues of Steve Millingham's "Pewter Replicas", and Colin Torode's "Lionheart Replicas". 
  I believe both Gentles are Master Pewterers, - and I have had the pleasure of dealing with these UK-based Merchants over the last 3 years, and enjoyed quite exceptional and helpful service from both of them.
  I believe that both of their catalogues show replica cloak clasps, either modelled upon archeological finds or examples already in National Museums such as the Museum of London.
   Disclaimer, - I have no commercial relationships with either, save as a VERY satisfied customer. I cannot recommend them highly enough..
   
  Yours in Service to our Dream
  Julian Wilson,
  in "old" Jersey,
  [aka in the SCA as Matthew Baker]
  

Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com> wrote:
  Greetings:-))

Does anyone know some good source where I can buy some cloak clasps of reasonable prices and shipping? Preferably from the UK, because I'm from Europe.

Thanks,
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: On Chopines
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 16:43:28 +0100
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Hi Cynthia,
Those are gorgeous Chopines, gosh how beautifull!
Must be something of a challenge to both walk and not the least to danse 
with!
Thanks for showing.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 3:17 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: On Chopines


> H-costumers,
> My new chopines have been finished for a month or so now.  They're
> quite a challenge to walk in.   They've got their own webpage, too.
> You can scroll thru and see how they were done.  My chopines are the
> tall red ones.
> http://AandS.org/raisedheels/index.html
> I've started dancing in them, lately.  Mostly bassedanza & pavans.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
>
> On 9/7/06, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I was fitted for my new chopines last nite.  You can see a picture of
>> the cork structure with the undyed footbed, and my fabric here:
>> http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hysteria95126/my_photos
>> The album is "Works in Progress". The chopines are part of the 2nd
>> set. Woo-hoo I will soon ascend to the heights of fashion!
>>
>> BTW, ladies & gents, have you seen this?  There's a lovely yellow
>> velvet 16th c chopine 360' view with zoom.  Look at the tooled leather
>> footbed.  That's different!  The chopine's all covered in lace & silk
>> ribbon bows. 
>> http://www.allaboutshoes.ca/en/heights_of_fashion/east_meets_west/
>> This is the Bata Shoe Museum's new online catalog.  Oddly you cant get
>> to All About Shoes from the Bata Shoe Museum's or the reverse.  It's
>> new, and that's the reason, I suppose.
>> --cin
>> Cynthia Barnes
>> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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At 14:36 11/11/2006, you wrote:
>Greetings:-))
>
>   Does anyone know some good source where I can buy some cloak 
> clasps of reasonable prices and shipping? Preferably from the UK, 
> because I'm from Europe.
>



http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/shop/shop.php

Accessories start on page 8.  Know them by reputation only - have not 
bought personally.

http://www.militarymetalwork.co.uk/products.php?cat=51&pg=2

as above - not bought but have seen his goods.

Suzi 

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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 13:09:27 -0500
From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: On Chopines
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I LOVE your red brocaded chopines! Thank you much for posting your
"how to" site - this will definitely go on my (massive) backlist of
potential future projects!

Allison T.

On 11/11/06, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com>
>

> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 18:17:09 -0800
> From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: On Chopines
> To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>         <edcaf0220611101817r457093e2u1475382b544b911b@mail.gmail.com>
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>
> H-costumers,
> My new chopines have been finished for a month or so now.  They're
> quite a challenge to walk in.   They've got their own webpage, too.
> You can scroll thru and see how they were done.  My chopines are the
> tall red ones.
> http://AandS.org/raisedheels/index.html
> I've started dancing in them, lately.  Mostly bassedanza & pavans.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
>
> On 9/7/06, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
> > I was fitted for my new chopines last nite.  You can see a picture of
> > the cork structure with the undyed footbed, and my fabric here:
> > http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hysteria95126/my_photos
> > The album is "Works in Progress". The chopines are part of the 2nd
> > set. Woo-hoo I will soon ascend to the heights of fashion!
> >
> > BTW, ladies & gents, have you seen this?  There's a lovely yellow
> > velvet 16th c chopine 360' view with zoom.  Look at the tooled leather
> > footbed.  That's different!  The chopine's all covered in lace & silk
> > ribbon bows. http://www.allaboutshoes.ca/en/heights_of_fashion/east_meets_west/
> > This is the Bata Shoe Museum's new online catalog.  Oddly you cant get
> > to All About Shoes from the Bata Shoe Museum's or the reverse.  It's
> > new, and that's the reason, I suppose.
> > --cin
> > Cynthia Barnes
> > CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] dress type
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I have finally found a propper picture to show. This is a painting of the 
view over the thames. Its from the mid century. You can clearly see that the 
ladies dresses dont have the sack backed trains in the back. I have seen 
this type of dress in many danish paintings two, yeat this type of dress is 
never spoken of in any history books.
So i ask you!
Please take a look at this painting wich i uploaded, it is cropped just to 
show the persons, and its ben magnified a lot, so its not the best quality.
What is this dress called? Is it bodice and skirt, or is the skirt attached 
to the bodice?
I am so curious to hear what you think!

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/thames.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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I don't know what sort of dress this is called, but some of those ladies 
are showing an awful lot of ankle!
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] iron corset ( long-ish)
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I didn't know there was a sex machine museum in Prague! Gotta go there sometime:-))

Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:  At 23:00 07/11/2006, you wrote:

>The story so far:
>
>Here is the specific block of text that really got my curiosity up, this is
>copied from en.wikibooks.org; it's one of the hits I got when I did a google
>image search for "iron corset"
>
>--copied text follows--
>
>Iron corsets are Victorian Era corsetcovers made of metal. There are 
>several in
>museum collections.
>
>It is sometimes claimed that these were the everyday wear of women and girls
>throughout Europe in the sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries. 
>But they are
>more likely to be orthopedic instruments used by a very few women 
>whose posture
>was not considered acceptable by the health and beauty standards of the time.
>
> * It is likely that the Iron Corset was originally a type of armour worn
>only by men.
> * The fact is as the "iron corset" was used both of men and 
> women, but only
>on dress occasions. The iron was heavy, but the dress was also heavy, and the
>iron was padded underneath like armour. The silk of that time was 
>very expensive
>but of poor quality and stretched poorly. It looked beautiful on the shining
>metal. The iron corset also worked as a bulletproof waistcoat, because
>assassination by knife in heart was a common risk.
> * The padded "iron corset" and armour was known as a corset on 
> women, and a
>waistcoat (vest) on men.
>
>--end copied text--
>
>This block, or portions of it, is used on any number of websites. I'd like to
>know where these ideas came from. Not in this text is the idea that the iron
>corset was invented by the de Medici's, or that Catherine wore one to achieve
>her 13 inch waist, though that's another common theme. The iron corsets I've
>located so far are as follows:
>http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/4subjectsearch/lingerie/lingerie18th/lingerie18.html
>one in the sex machines museum (you have been warned)(not actually sexually
>explicit) in the "sex machines gallary" http://www.sexmachinesmuseum.com
>http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/RENAISSA.HTML near the bottom 
>of the page.
>This one is in the Cluny museum?
>http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Iron_corset two more, as well as
>duplicates and drawings.
>http://web.archive.org/web/20050302121500/http://greatdayamerica.com/style/fashion/lycracorset.shtml
>http://www.staylace.com/unsortedjpgs/iron.jpg I *think* this one is in the
>Wallace Collection
>http://www.csuchico.edu/~cheinz/syllabi/fall99/bendlin/page2.html one new and
>one repeat
>and finally
>http://www.gutenberg.org/files/13444/13444-h/13444-h.htm#page101
>which is a facimile of a book published in 1920 which includes 
>variations on the
>de Medici comments.
>
>I have some theories, any or all of which may be true. I think some of the
>corsets may have been shop signs or orthopedic devices. I think some of them
>might have been victorian reproductions or fetish objects. (I have 
>at least one
>victorian "naughty" picture of a woman in an iron corset--it is a "medieval"
>costume)
>
>I welcome any thoughts anybody else might have.

I have always thought they could be early dress dummies - no boobs 
ones are easy to pad to shape.

Suzi 

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Cin wrote:

> You can scroll thru and see how they were done.  My chopines are the
> tall red ones.

I can't wait to see the dress that goes with them!



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type
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Y'know....now that I look at Mrs. Andrews again
 
_http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/gainsborough/andrews.jpg_ 
(http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/gainsborough/andrews.jpg) 
 
It looks more like the crisp blue silk of her dress in is spread out and  
poofed up on the bench from her sitting, and not a pannier at all.
 
Great painting, huh? I'd forgotten how lovely it  was.
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What year is the painting, may I ask?
 
It looks awfully stylized by the artist to me, the exaggerated shape and  
feel of the skirts being the same on all figures. But I don't see why this  
couldn't be an  "en fourreau" gown, or one cut with a separate bodice if  late in 
the century. The ladies have aprons but one looks like she has a  stomacher 
too. So the gowns could be that popular thing in England of gown and  petticoat 
and trimmings all of one plain fabric....usually with a very wide  pannier.
Like Gainsborough's  "Mr. & Mrs Andrews" . But upon looking at the  painting 
I see it appears Mrs. Andrews has a jacket and petticoat arrangement  all in 
one plain fabric. Interesting.
 
_http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/gainsborough/andrews.jpg_ 
(http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/gainsborough/andrews.jpg) 
 
 
Then here's "Mary, Countess Howe" all in pink, but without the  pannier.
 
_http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/gainsborough/howe.jpg_ 
(http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/gainsborough/howe.jpg) 
 

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> Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:  
> I didn't know there was a sex machine museum in Prague! Gotta go there
> sometime:-))
> 

We expect a full report on the corset when you do!  (Honestly, if you're
planning on going, I could come up with a list of questions for you to ask...)

Emma
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 13:49:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


> I have finally found a propper picture to show. This is a painting of the
> view over the thames. Its from the mid century. You can clearly see that
> the
> ladies dresses dont have the sack backed trains in the back. I have seen
> this type of dress in many danish paintings two, yeat this type of dress
> is
> never spoken of in any history books.
> So i ask you!
> Please take a look at this painting wich i uploaded, it is cropped just to
> show the persons, and its ben magnified a lot, so its not the best
> quality.
> What is this dress called? Is it bodice and skirt, or is the skirt
> attached
> to the bodice?
> I am so curious to hear what you think!
>
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/thames.htm

To me it looks like a version of the "Anglaise" style dress.  Or am I
missing something?

If they are Anglaise dresses, then the skirt is attached to the bodice,
they close in the front with small straight pins, and the bottom of the
bodice comes to a point in the front and back.  The skirt is also pleated
to the bodice all the way around.

Hope that helps!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type
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Status: RO

What year is the painting, may I ask?
 
It looks awfully stylized by the artist to me, the exaggerated shape and  
feel of the skirts being the same on all figures. But I don't see why this  
couldn't be an  "en fourreau" gown, or one cut with a separate bodice if  late in 
the century. The ladies have aprons but one looks like she has a  stomacher 
too. So the gowns could be that popular thing in England of gown and  petticoat 
and trimmings all of one plain fabric....usually with a very wide  pannier.
Like Gainsborough's  "Mr. & Mrs Andrews" . But upon looking at the  painting 
I see it appears Mrs. Andrews has a jacket and petticoat arrangement  all in 
one plain fabric. Interesting.
 
_http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/gainsborough/andrews.jpg_ 
(http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/gainsborough/andrews.jpg) 
 
 
Then here's "Mary, Countess Howe" all in pink, but without the  pannier.
 
_http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/gainsborough/howe.jpg_ 
(http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/gainsborough/howe.jpg) 
 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 19:16:15 -0400
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It looks to be to be a Robe a' l'anglaise with an en fereau back.  Most of 
the bodice is cut seperately from the skirt, except the narrow centre back 
piece, that one is cut one with the skirt.  The pieces are then all stitched 
together as a dress, kinda like what you would do if it were a sacque.

hope that helps

Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 4:35 PM
Subject: [h-cost] dress type


>I have finally found a propper picture to show. This is a painting of the 
>view over the thames. Its from the mid century. You can clearly see that 
>the ladies dresses dont have the sack backed trains in the back. I have 
>seen this type of dress in many danish paintings two, yeat this type of 
>dress is never spoken of in any history books.
> So i ask you!
> Please take a look at this painting wich i uploaded, it is cropped just to 
> show the persons, and its ben magnified a lot, so its not the best 
> quality.
> What is this dress called? Is it bodice and skirt, or is the skirt 
> attached to the bodice?
> I am so curious to hear what you think!
>
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/thames.htm
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] cloak clasps
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 18:33:47 -0600
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Status: RO

What period/era of cloak? What country?
Some "countries" you can find the option of lacing instead of clasp. Usually
eyelet holes or rings 3-4 on each side and ladder laced. I haven't seen
criss cross.
Also buttons.
De

-----Original Message-----
Greetings:-))

  Does anyone know some good source where I can buy some cloak clasps of
reasonable prices and shipping? Preferably from the UK, because I'm from
Europe.

  Thanks,

  Zuzana


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type
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Status: RO

I am no expert here, but 

Boucher says in general middle class in this period  showed feet and ankles.  Page 300 shows http://www.nga.gov/exhibitions/2003/genre/158-058.htm<http://www.nga.gov/exhibitions/2003/genre/158-058.htm> as an example.  She also discusses several others which don't appear to have anything on the back (unlike the pleats (a l' francaise) or the "saque" gown where the fabric at the back was apparently gathered.)  She doesn't give a name for them.  

Not clear, but perhaps one can infer here that the robe a l' Anglaise do not have the fabric at the back?
She says the a l' francaise was worn for ceremonies where as the l' Anglaise was worn in every day life.

Here is one from the middle of the century which doesn't appear to have the back fabric:
http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=2&I=277<http://www.trousseau.net/trousseau2.asp?P=2&I=277>




Sg
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] iron corset ( long-ish)
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I'll definitely go! I'm just very busy now, so I only have to find out when, probably this or next week. 
  So, if you have questions, ask! I'll give a report after the visit:-))
   
   
  00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:
  

> Suzi Clarke wrote: 
> I didn't know there was a sex machine museum in Prague! Gotta go there
> sometime:-))
> 

We expect a full report on the corset when you do! (Honestly, if you're
planning on going, I could come up with a list of questions for you to ask...)

Emma
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] cloak clasps
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Middle ages, and renaissance maybe. But the period is not so important as I'm often doing fantasy costumes (like LOTR style etc.) That's why I'm actually looking for cloak clasps  - for fantasy costumes - for the medieval ones I can use lacing (or buttons). Here in Prague cloak clasps don't exist, so I'll be happy to find just any cloak clasps, like f.ex. at twin roses designs or patterns of time. But they're both American and the shipping would be quite expensive.
   
  
otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  What period/era of cloak? What country?
Some "countries" you can find the option of lacing instead of clasp. Usually
eyelet holes or rings 3-4 on each side and ladder laced. I haven't seen
criss cross.
Also buttons.
De

-----Original Message-----
Greetings:-))

Does anyone know some good source where I can buy some cloak clasps of
reasonable prices and shipping? Preferably from the UK, because I'm from
Europe.

Thanks,

Zuzana


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I have seen this dress.  In the original movie, The
King And I, Anna is wearing one during the State
Dinner seen when she is dancung with Yul Brenner.

--- Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com> wrote:

> 
> > I have finally found a propper picture to show.
> This is a painting of the
> > view over the thames. Its from the mid century.
> You can clearly see that
> > the
> > ladies dresses dont have the sack backed trains in
> the back. I have seen
> > this type of dress in many danish paintings two,
> yeat this type of dress
> > is
> > never spoken of in any history books.
> > So i ask you!
> > Please take a look at this painting wich i
> uploaded, it is cropped just to
> > show the persons, and its ben magnified a lot, so
> its not the best
> > quality.
> > What is this dress called? Is it bodice and skirt,
> or is the skirt
> > attached
> > to the bodice?
> > I am so curious to hear what you think!
> >
> > http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/thames.htm
> 
> To me it looks like a version of the "Anglaise"
> style dress.  Or am I
> missing something?
> 
> If they are Anglaise dresses, then the skirt is
> attached to the bodice,
> they close in the front with small straight pins,
> and the bottom of the
> bodice comes to a point in the front and back.  The
> skirt is also pleated
> to the bodice all the way around.
> 
> Hope that helps!
> 
> Diana
> 
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
> 
> "Become the change you want to see in the world."
> --Ghandi
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type
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At 13:00 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>I have seen this dress.  In the original movie, The
>King And I, Anna is wearing one during the State
>Dinner seen when she is dancung with Yul Brenner.
>
>--- Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > > I have finally found a propper picture to show.
> > This is a painting of the
> > > view over the thames. Its from the mid century.
> > You can clearly see that
> > > the
> > > ladies dresses dont have the sack backed trains in
> > the back. I have seen
> > > this type of dress in many danish paintings two,
> > yeat this type of dress
> > > is
> > > never spoken of in any history books.
> > > So i ask you!
> > > Please take a look at this painting wich i
> > uploaded, it is cropped just to
> > > show the persons, and its ben magnified a lot, so
> > its not the best
> > > quality.
> > > What is this dress called? Is it bodice and skirt,
> > or is the skirt
> > > attached
> > > to the bodice?
> > > I am so curious to hear what you think!
> > >
> > > http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/thames.htm
> >
> > To me it looks like a version of the "Anglaise"
> > style dress.  Or am I
> > missing something?
> >
> > If they are Anglaise dresses, then the skirt is
> > attached to the bodice,
> > they close in the front with small straight pins,
> > and the bottom of the
> > bodice comes to a point in the front and back.  The
> > skirt is also pleated
> > to the bodice all the way around.
> >
> > Hope that helps!

This is taken from a painting by Canaletto in 1747. It's one of his 
London from the Thames paintings. Here is the full painting.

http://www.abcgallery.com/C/canaletto/canaletto31.html (I hope).

Are there dresses like this in "Fitting and Proper", or "Costume 
Close-up", or "Costume in Detail", or "Historic Fashion in Detail"? 
(the 18th century one.) I'm away from my books and can't check right now.

Suzi

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] cloak clasps
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At 09:51 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>Middle ages, and renaissance maybe. But the period is not so 
>important as I'm often doing fantasy costumes (like LOTR style etc.) 
>That's why I'm actually looking for cloak clasps  - for fantasy 
>costumes - for the medieval ones I can use lacing (or buttons). Here 
>in Prague cloak clasps don't exist, so I'll be happy to find just 
>any cloak clasps, like f.ex. at twin roses designs or patterns of 
>time. But they're both American and the shipping would be quite expensive.
>
>
>otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
>   What period/era of cloak? What country?
>Some "countries" you can find the option of lacing instead of clasp. Usually
>eyelet holes or rings 3-4 on each side and ladder laced. I haven't seen
>criss cross.
>Also buttons.
>De
>
>-----Original Message-----
>Greetings:-))
>
>Does anyone know some good source where I can buy some cloak clasps of
>reasonable prices and shipping? Preferably from the UK, because I'm from
>Europe.



Repeating my previous post in case you didn't see it, Zuzana.

http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/shop/shop.php

Accessories start on page 8.  Know them by reputation only - have not 
bought personally.

http://www.militarymetalwork.co.uk/products.php?cat=51&pg=2

as above - not bought but have seen his goods.

Suzi  

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Hi,
This is excactly what there are not. No patterns of such a dress.
Because the dress only consist of one skirt, i wonder how the skirt would be 
attached to the bodice.
Could it be that the whole front skirt was put to some tape ties, where it 
would be attached to the back of the skirt at the middle of the bodice, and 
then the pointed bodice would be pinned in the front over the skirt?
What i would be very interrested in was how the cut would have ben like in 
the back, perhaps the fourreau style or the mantua style with sewn down 
pleats?
It is strange that all costume historians leaved this type out, because it 
surely was very popular, also in Denmark.
Besides its not as much fabric consuming as a francaise is or anglaise for 
that matter, because it only has one skirt.
Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type


> At 13:00 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>>I have seen this dress.  In the original movie, The
>>King And I, Anna is wearing one during the State
>>Dinner seen when she is dancung with Yul Brenner.
>>
>>--- Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > > I have finally found a propper picture to show.
>> > This is a painting of the
>> > > view over the thames. Its from the mid century.
>> > You can clearly see that
>> > > the
>> > > ladies dresses dont have the sack backed trains in
>> > the back. I have seen
>> > > this type of dress in many danish paintings two,
>> > yeat this type of dress
>> > > is
>> > > never spoken of in any history books.
>> > > So i ask you!
>> > > Please take a look at this painting wich i
>> > uploaded, it is cropped just to
>> > > show the persons, and its ben magnified a lot, so
>> > its not the best
>> > > quality.
>> > > What is this dress called? Is it bodice and skirt,
>> > or is the skirt
>> > > attached
>> > > to the bodice?
>> > > I am so curious to hear what you think!
>> > >
>> > > http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/thames.htm
>> >
>> > To me it looks like a version of the "Anglaise"
>> > style dress.  Or am I
>> > missing something?
>> >
>> > If they are Anglaise dresses, then the skirt is
>> > attached to the bodice,
>> > they close in the front with small straight pins,
>> > and the bottom of the
>> > bodice comes to a point in the front and back.  The
>> > skirt is also pleated
>> > to the bodice all the way around.
>> >
>> > Hope that helps!
>
> This is taken from a painting by Canaletto in 1747. It's one of his London 
> from the Thames paintings. Here is the full painting.
>
> http://www.abcgallery.com/C/canaletto/canaletto31.html (I hope).
>
> Are there dresses like this in "Fitting and Proper", or "Costume 
> Close-up", or "Costume in Detail", or "Historic Fashion in Detail"? (the 
> 18th century one.) I'm away from my books and can't check right now.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 07:26:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] cloak clasps
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Oh many, many thanks!
  I've glanced through both the sites already but at chimera costumes I couldn't find any clasps. The site has a strange "structure" and as I couldn't find any menu with "clasps" item, I didn't search any more. Now I've searched more and I've found them! Many thanks again!
  Thanks to Julian Wilson, too, I think I'll remember these sellers when I'll need something really period. Their work is beautiful, I like especially the belt buckles and things around that:-)
   
  Zuzana

<suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
  Repeating my previous post in case you didn't see it, Zuzana.

http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/shop/shop.php

Accessories start on page 8. Know them by reputation only - have not 
bought personally.

http://www.militarymetalwork.co.uk/products.php?cat=51&pg=2

as above - not bought but have seen his goods.

Suzi 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] cloak clasps
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 04:28:26 -0600
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Cloak and Dagger. have not ordered from them and have no clue other then
they might be in the US.
http://www.cloakmaker.com/clasps/european.html
http://www.medievalweddings.com/clasps/Celticclasp.html

Treasure Cast, I know of one customer who is satisfied with their clasps.
but again, US
http://www.treasurecast.com/pages/cloak_clasps.htm

Does it have to be clasps? Could you use frogs? Another thought would be to
get coat hook and eyes and sew it to the cloak for closure and then find
something that can go on the cloak to make it look like a clasp.

Let me ask someone on another list for possible European clasp sellers.
De

-----Original Message-----
Middle ages, and renaissance maybe. But the period is not so important as
I'm often doing fantasy costumes (like LOTR style etc.) That's why I'm
actually looking for cloak clasps  - for fantasy costumes - for the medieval
ones I can use lacing (or buttons). Here in Prague cloak clasps don't exist,
so I'll be happy to find just any cloak clasps, like f.ex. at twin roses
designs or patterns of time. But they're both American and the shipping
would be quite expensive.


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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By the way, looking at the chimera costumes' web page, is there any historical evidence of this kind of dress:
  http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/slideshows/view.php?c=43 ? I mean the gores in the skirt (or lower part of the dress) - does anybody know?
   
  Zuzana
   

 	
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Luckham <dluckham@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Dress Type
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Historic Fashion in Detail shows a "rose red ground with trails of white 
flowers" with "a pleated English back (altered in 1760's) the silk is 1740 
(p 88).  As it is Fashion in Detail I don't know what the front of the gown 
is like.  There is a mantua 1750 (p90) that may look something like these 
gowns from the distance the painting puts the subjects.

Nancy Bradfield's Costume in Detail shows several open robes with this back 
dated as early as 1730.  To look like the ladies in the painting, they 
would need to be wearing matching (as opposed to contrasting) 
petticoats.  There is one (p5) that although it is an open robe, the skirts 
are pleated all the way around to centre front which would give the look of 
the same colour all the way around.  Page 9 shows a closed robe c.1740-50 
which looks like these gowns.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type
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> Hi,
> This is excactly what there are not. No patterns of such a dress.
> Because the dress only consist of one skirt, i wonder how the skirt
would be attached to the bodice.
> Could it be that the whole front skirt was put to some tape ties, where it
> would be attached to the back of the skirt at the middle of the bodice,
> and
> then the pointed bodice would be pinned in the front over the skirt?
> What i would be very interrested in was how the cut would have ben like in
> the back, perhaps the fourreau style or the mantua style with sewn down
> pleats?

I looked through "What clothes reveal" and I saw several examples
(especially in paintings) of dresses with only one skirt.  But they would
only show one angle of the dress so it is hard to tell where the gown
opening was and whether the skirt attached to the bodice or not.

It looks like the bodice does not close in the front with this type of
dress.  And I still think that the skirt is attached all the way around. 
The pleats need to be nice and neat for this style and you could not
achieve that if the skirt is separate.

> It is strange that all costume historians leaved this type out, because it
> surely was very popular, also in Denmark

> Besides its not as much fabric consuming as a francaise is or anglaise for
> that matter, because it only has one skirt.
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 2:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type
>
>
>> At 13:00 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>>>I have seen this dress.  In the original movie, The
>>>King And I, Anna is wearing one during the State
>>>Dinner seen when she is dancung with Yul Brenner.
>>>
>>>--- Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>> > > I have finally found a propper picture to show.
>>> > This is a painting of the
>>> > > view over the thames. Its from the mid century.
>>> > You can clearly see that
>>> > > the
>>> > > ladies dresses dont have the sack backed trains in
>>> > the back. I have seen
>>> > > this type of dress in many danish paintings two,
>>> > yeat this type of dress
>>> > > is
>>> > > never spoken of in any history books.
>>> > > So i ask you!
>>> > > Please take a look at this painting wich i
>>> > uploaded, it is cropped just to
>>> > > show the persons, and its ben magnified a lot, so
>>> > its not the best
>>> > > quality.
>>> > > What is this dress called? Is it bodice and skirt,
>>> > or is the skirt
>>> > > attached
>>> > > to the bodice?
>>> > > I am so curious to hear what you think!
>>> > >
>>> > > http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/thames.htm
>>> >
>>> > To me it looks like a version of the "Anglaise"
>>> > style dress.  Or am I
>>> > missing something?
>>> >
>>> > If they are Anglaise dresses, then the skirt is
>>> > attached to the bodice,
>>> > they close in the front with small straight pins,
>>> > and the bottom of the
>>> > bodice comes to a point in the front and back.  The
>>> > skirt is also pleated
>>> > to the bodice all the way around.
>>> >
>>> > Hope that helps!
>>
>> This is taken from a painting by Canaletto in 1747. It's one of his
>> London
>> from the Thames paintings. Here is the full painting.
>>
>> http://www.abcgallery.com/C/canaletto/canaletto31.html (I hope).
>>
>> Are there dresses like this in "Fitting and Proper", or "Costume
>> Close-up", or "Costume in Detail", or "Historic Fashion in Detail"? (the
>> 18th century one.) I'm away from my books and can't check right now.
>>
>> Suzi
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 15:54:51 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] cloak clasps
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At 09:51 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>Middle ages, and renaissance maybe. But the period is not so 
>important as I'm often doing fantasy costumes (like LOTR style etc.) 
>That's why I'm actually looking for cloak clasps  - for fantasy 
>costumes - for the medieval ones I can use lacing (or buttons). Here 
>in Prague cloak clasps don't exist, so I'll be happy to find just 
>any cloak clasps, like f.ex. at twin roses designs or patterns of 
>time. But they're both American and the shipping would be quite expensive.
>
>
>otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
>   What period/era of cloak? What country?
>Some "countries" you can find the option of lacing instead of clasp. Usually
>eyelet holes or rings 3-4 on each side and ladder laced. I haven't seen
>criss cross.


And there is E Bay

Scroll down for at least two kinds of clasp.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Medieval-Merchant_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQpZ2QQtZkm

Suzi

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Suzi Clarke wrote:

> 
> Are there dresses like this in "Fitting and Proper", or "Costume 
> Close-up", or "Costume in Detail", or "Historic Fashion in Detail"? (the 
> 18th century one.) I'm away from my books and can't check right now.
> 

Pgs 9, 13, 31, and 33 of "Costume in Detail" show "round gowns" of this 
type. The front meets at the waist, but not at the bustline, and they 
are meant to be worn with a stomacher.


Dawn


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In a message dated 11/12/2006 9:43:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Because  the dress only consist of one skirt


*******************
 
Because of the early-ish year of the painting....
 
could this be gowns like in Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion,  
Vol.1"...the 1st 18th century gown in there, on page 22? Arnold calls it a  "wrapping 
gown" but I don't think she means a wrapper!...an at home sorta  dressing gown. 
It looks perfectly fine or wearing out and about. It's a  logical  procession 
from the "robe volante" [one is pictured in the  big Kyoto book].
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type
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At 14:42 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>This is excactly what there are not. No patterns of such a dress.
>Because the dress only consist of one skirt, i wonder how the skirt 
>would be attached to the bodice.
>Could it be that the whole front skirt was put to some tape ties, 
>where it would be attached to the back of the skirt at the middle of 
>the bodice, and then the pointed bodice would be pinned in the front 
>over the skirt?
>What i would be very interrested in was how the cut would have ben 
>like in the back, perhaps the fourreau style or the mantua style 
>with sewn down pleats?
>It is strange that all costume historians leaved this type out, 
>because it surely was very popular, also in Denmark.
>Besides its not as much fabric consuming as a francaise is or 
>anglaise for that matter, because it only has one skirt.
>Bjarne



There are three dresses with separate bodices, and one with an en 
fourreau back, all with patterns and detailed drawings of front and 
back, in "Patterns of Fashion 1660-1860",  by Janet Arnold. One even 
has a zig-zag style collar, similar to the one you are looking at 
Bjarne. I've made this dress pattern up and it works really well. In 
fact I've made all of them, and providing you only use the pattern 
pieces as a guide (one back piece is really peculiar) they work 
beautifully. (Many of the dresses on this site are of this style. 
http://www.minuetcompany.org/gallery.html I made a number of outfits 
for this group, bioh men and women.)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
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Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> 
> The Fall/veil is shaped like a sleeve because it's attached at the top 
> of the shaped crescent (this is an interpretation that I support because 
> all the images I've seen show a band of black at the top edge of the 
> stiffened crescent and side views like this 
> http://www.bergercollection.org/artwork_detail.php?i=37 also show the 
> veil attached at the top of the crescent piece)

I agree that the front edge of the black hood lays just over the back 
edge of the crescent, but if you look at Mary I's portrait medal, you'll 
see that that edge of the hood is a band, to which is attached a bag 
covering the back of the head and a separate flat tongue-shaped fall.
http://www.marileecody.com/mary1medal.jpg

You can see what is probably a similar construction in those hoods that 
appear in profile in Jane Malcolm-Davies's useful online effigies 
database, for example
http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=73
http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=92
and on Antoinette de Fontette, whose effigy is image 436 on page 221 of 
my edition of Boucher's _20,000 Years of Fashion_.

The same shape appears in every profile image I have found so far, from 
1530 on.  In every case, the fall is a flat tube that emerges from the 
crown of the head, not a round one whose slanted top circumference 
circles the back of the head.  Compare the three images linked above to 
Mikhaila and Malcolm-Davies's reconstruction at
http://www.kissthefrog.co.uk/images/C16th/Elizhood2005.jpg

Melanie Schuessler


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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Colleges for studying costuming and fashion
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 12:58:44 -0500
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Rutgers/Mason Gross has an excellent program. They do a good job of
helping to place their graduates and have an on-going internship
placement with Saturday Night Live.

http://catalogs.rutgers.edu/generated/mgsa/pg5887.html

Kate
609-570-3584

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 10:24 AM
To: Historical Costume
Cc: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] Colleges for studying costuming and fashion

Has anyone come across any online sites that list colleges/universities 
that give degrees in fashion and/or MFAs in costume design or 
technology?  I want to share them with my students.

Sylrog

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Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:
> I don't know about the authenticity aspect, I meant the pattern came out
> nicely, fit well, looked good. Sorry.

No need to apologize.  I think they are successful in the ways that you 
mention, but not as accurate as I would like.  I've been researching 
French hoods rather intensively lately, and was surprised by the ones in 
The Tudor Tailor.

Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the early middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of tailoring), but the use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not really documentable for this period (I think there is some use of this technique in the 19th century, but I'm not sure).

It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was* documentable...

Marg.





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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4554E36E.9050809@kabelfoon.nl>
	<41523.65.117.156.5.1163196037.squirrel@webmail.io.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1860 leather gloves
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 13:04:29 -0600
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Hope these help ...

http://members.tripod.com/ShootingStarEnt/gloves.html

http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseaction=SMT.search&searchCriteria=glove

http://www.davidrumsey.com/amico/amico9107717-17852.html

http://www.bopcris.ac.uk/bop1700/browse/674.html

http://www.costumelibrary.com/

www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk/gloves1.htm

http://www.oxonart.org/imagine/upload/Gloves(1).jpg

http://www.vandaimages.com/results.asp?cat1=Gloves&X8=17-03
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1860 leather gloves


> There is a Dutch website that has a few ... let me look for the url
> when I get home tonight. :)
>
> Chiara
>
>
> On Fri, November 10, 2006 2:39 pm, Deredere Galbraith said:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I am looking for pictures of leather ladies gloves from around 1860.
>> I tried to find the on the Internet but I can't seem to find any.
>>
>> Greetings,
>>        Deredere
>> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type
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Hi Suzi,
Thanks. yes i overlooked that dress with  the collar.
I guess its because i thoaght it was a later fashion.
I never imagined this style of dress with a large pannier like the painting.
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type


> At 14:42 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>This is excactly what there are not. No patterns of such a dress.
>>Because the dress only consist of one skirt, i wonder how the skirt would 
>>be attached to the bodice.
>>Could it be that the whole front skirt was put to some tape ties, where it 
>>would be attached to the back of the skirt at the middle of the bodice, 
>>and then the pointed bodice would be pinned in the front over the skirt?
>>What i would be very interrested in was how the cut would have ben like in 
>>the back, perhaps the fourreau style or the mantua style with sewn down 
>>pleats?
>>It is strange that all costume historians leaved this type out, because it 
>>surely was very popular, also in Denmark.
>>Besides its not as much fabric consuming as a francaise is or anglaise for 
>>that matter, because it only has one skirt.
>>Bjarne
>
>
>
> There are three dresses with separate bodices, and one with an en fourreau 
> back, all with patterns and detailed drawings of front and back, in 
> "Patterns of Fashion 1660-1860",  by Janet Arnold. One even has a zig-zag 
> style collar, similar to the one you are looking at Bjarne. I've made this 
> dress pattern up and it works really well. In fact I've made all of them, 
> and providing you only use the pattern pieces as a guide (one back piece 
> is really peculiar) they work beautifully. (Many of the dresses on this 
> site are of this style. http://www.minuetcompany.org/gallery.html I made a 
> number of outfits for this group, bioh men and women.)
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Type
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I think it is so in this case with the picture, that the dresses dont have 
matching petticoats. You clearly see that in the lady right for the red 
dress.
Also in the pictures i have of street life in Copenhagen.
But the example of Nancy Bradfields page 9 was excactly how i imagined they 
would have made these dresses.
Thanks for guiding me into the right direction!
I guess it also was because i only looked for big pannier dresses, wich 
there are none of.

Many thanks Dawn.
Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn Luckham" <dluckham@sympatico.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 4:48 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Dress Type


> Historic Fashion in Detail shows a "rose red ground with trails of white 
> flowers" with "a pleated English back (altered in 1760's) the silk is 1740 
> (p 88).  As it is Fashion in Detail I don't know what the front of the 
> gown is like.  There is a mantua 1750 (p90) that may look something like 
> these gowns from the distance the painting puts the subjects.
>
> Nancy Bradfield's Costume in Detail shows several open robes with this 
> back dated as early as 1730.  To look like the ladies in the painting, 
> they would need to be wearing matching (as opposed to contrasting) 
> petticoats.  There is one (p5) that although it is an open robe, the 
> skirts are pleated all the way around to centre front which would give the 
> look of the same colour all the way around.  Page 9 shows a closed robe 
> c.1740-50 which looks like these gowns.
>
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Many thanks for all your suggestions and debate of the closed robe type.
Gives me blod on the teeth to try out some day!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> By the way, looking at the chimera costumes' web page, is there any historical evidence of this kind of dress:
>   http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/slideshows/view.php?c=43 ? I mean the gores in the skirt (or lower part of the dress) - does anybody know?
>   

I've seen it more than twice in SCA wear, but I've never seen any 
evidence hat it's a period style.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Branwyn Maura wrote:

>Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the early middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of tailoring), but the use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not really documentable for this period (I think there is some use of this technique in the 19th century, but I'm not sure).
>
>It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was* documentable...
>  
>

Definitely a matter of taste... I hate it and wish it would go away :-)

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Quoting Branwyn Maura <jauncourt@yahoo.com>:

> Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the   
> early middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of   
> tailoring), but the use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not  
>  really documentable for this period (I think there is some use of   
> this technique in the 19th century, but I'm not sure).
>
> It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was* documentable...
>

Oh, yeah.  I'm with you on this one.  I saw a nice gown once with a  
reversable brocade done like this -- it was very nice.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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For what it's worth, my Lucy Barton "Historic Costume for the Stage" says,
in the Early Georgian section, 1700-1750, "Costume (could consist) of but
one dress or of a gown over bodice and petticoat..." and "Gowns open over
under bodices might be laced across or left open to show ruffles or lace.
Over gowns were usually open in front; dresses worn without gowns were as
often laced up the back." 
Maybe these are over gowns, worn over a back laced dress. The shape of the
body would be achieved by the laced under dress and the over gown was one
piece, worn over the other layer, to change the look of the outfit
Sharon C..

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 6:42 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type


Hi,
This is excactly what there are not. No patterns of such a dress.
Because the dress only consist of one skirt, i wonder how the skirt would be

attached to the bodice.
Could it be that the whole front skirt was put to some tape ties, where it 
would be attached to the back of the skirt at the middle of the bodice, and 
then the pointed bodice would be pinned in the front over the skirt?
What i would be very interrested in was how the cut would have ben like in 
the back, perhaps the fourreau style or the mantua style with sewn down 
pleats?
It is strange that all costume historians leaved this type out, because it 
surely was very popular, also in Denmark.
Besides its not as much fabric consuming as a francaise is or anglaise for 
that matter, because it only has one skirt.
Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress type


> At 13:00 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>>I have seen this dress.  In the original movie, The
>>King And I, Anna is wearing one during the State
>>Dinner seen when she is dancung with Yul Brenner.
>>
>>--- Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > > I have finally found a propper picture to show.
>> > This is a painting of the
>> > > view over the thames. Its from the mid century.
>> > You can clearly see that
>> > > the
>> > > ladies dresses dont have the sack backed trains in
>> > the back. I have seen
>> > > this type of dress in many danish paintings two,
>> > yeat this type of dress
>> > > is
>> > > never spoken of in any history books.
>> > > So i ask you!
>> > > Please take a look at this painting wich i
>> > uploaded, it is cropped just to
>> > > show the persons, and its ben magnified a lot, so
>> > its not the best
>> > > quality.
>> > > What is this dress called? Is it bodice and skirt,
>> > or is the skirt
>> > > attached
>> > > to the bodice?
>> > > I am so curious to hear what you think!
>> > >
>> > > http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/thames.htm
>> >
>> > To me it looks like a version of the "Anglaise"
>> > style dress.  Or am I
>> > missing something?
>> >
>> > If they are Anglaise dresses, then the skirt is
>> > attached to the bodice,
>> > they close in the front with small straight pins,
>> > and the bottom of the
>> > bodice comes to a point in the front and back.  The
>> > skirt is also pleated
>> > to the bodice all the way around.
>> >
>> > Hope that helps!
>
> This is taken from a painting by Canaletto in 1747. It's one of his London

> from the Thames paintings. Here is the full painting.
>
> http://www.abcgallery.com/C/canaletto/canaletto31.html (I hope).
>
> Are there dresses like this in "Fitting and Proper", or "Costume 
> Close-up", or "Costume in Detail", or "Historic Fashion in Detail"? (the 
> 18th century one.) I'm away from my books and can't check right now.
>
> Suzi
>
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> 


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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"Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the 
> early middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of 
> tailoring), but the use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not 
> really documentable for this period (I think there is some use of 
> this technique in the 19th century, but I'm not sure)."
   
  Sorry, I forgot to mention that I'm looking for an evidence proving that CONTRASTING gores were used - thanks for reminding:-)


 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Gores themselves? Certainly, although not necessarily placed in the manner
depicted.
Gores made of a contrasting fabric? Not that I know of.  I've seen this
particular fashion error show up at an occasional SCA event, but not very
often.  I'm not sure of its point of origin, but I'm pretty darned sure that
it wasn't in the middle ages! ;o)
--Sue


----- Original Message -----
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 8:33 AM
Subject: [h-cost] gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> By the way, looking at the chimera costumes' web page, is there any
historical evidence of this kind of dress:
>   http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/slideshows/view.php?c=43 ? I mean the
gores in the skirt (or lower part of the dress) - does anybody know?
>
>   Zuzana
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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1. It has modern princess seams.
2. the inner sleeve should not be connected to the outer dress.
3. (minor) laced incorrectly.
4. Has contrasting bias at the hem.

Now for the gores.
There are a rare few mid 1400s "Italian" frescos that have what appears to
be different colored gores in the dress but not all the way to the waist.
they could be different colored fabric sewn in or it could be dags.
The only one that I remember going close to the waist was not gores but
dags, again "Italian".
The "German" dresses that I have seen with what appears to be a gore of a
different colour is actually a seam opening/slit and it is on the side.
One example that has been debated of dags vs. gores is the scene of St.
Mary's birth, the white and red dress. (which I do not have the URL saved to
show you) but this dress also has a red front panel. Is the white a coat
w/dags held by gold ties onto a red dress or is the red panel a part of the
white, w/red gores? It is left to your interpretation of the fresco. The
wearer of the dress in question is a patron so that increases the dress as
having existed.

De

-----Original Message-----
Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> By the way, looking at the chimera costumes' web page, is there any
historical evidence of this kind of dress:
>   http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/slideshows/view.php?c=43 ? I mean the
gores in the skirt (or lower part of the dress) - does anybody know?
>


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 13:18:16 -0800
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>From a purely practical point of view, the piece around the back of the
neck, forming a circle around the head, made the hood fit extremely well. I
wore mine outside, in wind, without any fasteners, bobby pins, etc. It just
sat on my head and I had no problems with it wanting to come off. It is a
good design for costume purposes.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:13 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review


Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:
> I don't know about the authenticity aspect, I meant the pattern came out
> nicely, fit well, looked good. Sorry.

No need to apologize.  I think they are successful in the ways that you 
mention, but not as accurate as I would like.  I've been researching 
French hoods rather intensively lately, and was surprised by the ones in 
The Tudor Tailor.

Melanie Schuessler

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Greetings--

Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
>> By the way, looking at the chimera costumes' web page, is there any 
>> historical evidence of this kind of dress:
>>   http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/slideshows/view.php?c=43 ? I mean the 
>> gores in the skirt (or lower part of the dress) - does anybody know?
>>   
>
> I've seen it more than twice in SCA wear, but I've never seen any 
> evidence hat it's a period style.
>
It's not so much the gores--it's the gores in contrasting fabric.  Were 
the gores in the same fabric as the main body, the cut isn't half bad, 
although I'm not sure about ten separate inserted gores.

Susan
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:

> Greetings--
>
> Adele de Maisieres wrote:
>
>> Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
>>
>>> By the way, looking at the chimera costumes' web page, is there any 
>>> historical evidence of this kind of dress:
>>>   http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/slideshows/view.php?c=43 ? I mean 
>>> the gores in the skirt (or lower part of the dress) - does anybody 
>>> know?
>>>   
>>
>>
>> I've seen it more than twice in SCA wear, but I've never seen any 
>> evidence hat it's a period style.
>>
> It's not so much the gores--it's the gores in contrasting fabric.  
> Were the gores in the same fabric as the main body, the cut isn't half 
> bad, although I'm not sure about ten separate inserted gores.



Sorry, that was what I meant.  Gores per se were definitely used in 
Medieval clothing-- it's the contrasting fabric that I've seen no 
evidence for.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 13:18:21 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Voncile W. Dudley wrote:

>Aren't gores the ones that start at the waist and godets the ones that start somewhere around the thigh?  Anyone know the difference, if any?
>  
>
Well, SCA-types tend to call them gores and modern dressmakers tend to 
call them godets and use "gore" to refer to a trapezoidal panel.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Interesting, that you liked it.  It made my eyes bleed, and the
authenticity-nut part of me back up hissing and spitting.  I was also pretty
taken aback by the price (starting at 350 pounds??? Wowser!).
I guess our respective mileages are varying greatly on this one, huh? ;oD
--sue in montana
----- Original Message -----
From: "Branwyn Maura" <jauncourt@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the early
middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of tailoring), but the
use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not really documentable for
this period (I think there is some use of this technique in the 19th
century, but I'm not sure).
>
> It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was* documentable...
>
> Marg.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 19:19:43 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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How much is 350 pounds?

On Nov 12, 2006, at 2:35 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Interesting, that you liked it.  It made my eyes bleed, and the
> authenticity-nut part of me back up hissing and spitting.  I was also 
> pretty
> taken aback by the price (starting at 350 pounds??? Wowser!).
> I guess our respective mileages are varying greatly on this one, huh? 
> ;oD
> --sue in montana
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Branwyn Maura" <jauncourt@yahoo.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:46 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
>
>
>> Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the 
>> early
> middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of tailoring), but 
> the
> use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not really documentable 
> for
> this period (I think there is some use of this technique in the 19th
> century, but I'm not sure).
>>
>> It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was* documentable...
>>
>> Marg.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:

> How much is 350 pounds?

$700 USD -- approximately

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> How much is 350 pounds?
>
 1000 New Zealand dollars.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Using my handy-dandy converter:

http://www.xe.net/ucc/

Roughly 669 buckolas!!! (Too bad it can't be phantasy-bucks for 
phantasy-garb!!)

Theresa Eacker


>
> How much is 350 pounds?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Greetings--

Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Voncile W. Dudley wrote:
>
>> Aren't gores the ones that start at the waist and godets the ones 
>> that start somewhere around the thigh?  Anyone know the difference, 
>> if any?
>>  
>>
> Well, SCA-types tend to call them gores and modern dressmakers tend to 
> call them godets and use "gore" to refer to a trapezoidal panel.
>
I'm guessing we don't really know what they called the suckers in the 
Middle Ages :-) 

Susan
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Subject: [h-cost] French hoods (was Tudor Tailor -- another review)
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Hi Melanie,
   
  After I thought I had it figured out, and made my French hood similar to the one in the Tudor Tailor (as I wanted one before the style shown in the Mary Tudor coin), I found this image in a book on illumination just a couple of weeks later.
  http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1530/BathshebaHead1.html
  http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1530/BathshebaHead2.html
  from this original
  http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1530/Bathsheba.html
  It shows clearly the style you mention, which threw out the lovely French hood I had just finished.
  http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/1545FrenchHood/index.html
  But don't worry, I will be making one in the new, improved style. I would love to see yours when you are done.
   
  Kimiko
  French hood images
  http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/
   
  
Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
  <snip>
The same shape appears in every profile image I have found so far, from 
1530 on. In every case, the fall is a flat tube that emerges from the 
crown of the head, not a round one whose slanted top circumference 
circles the back of the head. Compare the three images linked above to 
Mikhaila and Malcolm-Davies's reconstruction at
http://www.kissthefrog.co.uk/images/C16th/Elizhood2005.jpg

Melanie Schuessler

 
---------------------------------
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
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Hi Sharon,
   
  I agree. For costuming purposes, mine sat just fine on my head without any fasteners, until a really strong gust lifted it up. But it went back on with minimal adjusting. I loved how it works, but I will be adding in a chin strap soon since I won't have the new one made before my next event.
   
  Kimiko
  

"Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
  >From a purely practical point of view, the piece around the back of the
neck, forming a circle around the head, made the hood fit extremely well. I
wore mine outside, in wind, without any fasteners, bobby pins, etc. It just
sat on my head and I had no problems with it wanting to come off. It is a
good design for costume purposes.


 
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I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at those 
prices.

On Nov 12, 2006, at 7:28 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
>
>> How much is 350 pounds?
>
> $700 USD -- approximately
>
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:

> I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at those
> prices.

Who Knows!  But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Well, except that in reality what costs $1 in the USA costs £1 in the UK. So 
from the UK seller's point of view it would be a more accurate reflection of 
their how much they are earning (in terms of paying the bills, keeping food 
on the table etc.) if you just change the dollar symbol to a pounds symbol. 
Now change your estimate to $350 (or even better look at more local 
websites) and see if it's still worth it.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


>I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at those 
>prices.
>
> On Nov 12, 2006, at 7:28 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>
>> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
>>
>>> How much is 350 pounds?
>>
>> $700 USD -- approximately
>>
>> susan
>> -----

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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Aren't gores the ones that start at the waist and godets the ones that start somewhere around the thigh?  Anyone know the difference, if any?
  Lady Von

Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:
  Branwyn Maura wrote:

>Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the early middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of tailoring), but the use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not really documentable for this period (I think there is some use of this technique in the 19th century, but I'm not sure).
>
>It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was* documentable...
> 
>

Definitely a matter of taste... I hate it and wish it would go away :-)

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 2:33 AM
Subject: [h-cost] gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> By the way, looking at the chimera costumes' web page, is there any 
> historical evidence of this kind of dress:
>  http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/slideshows/view.php?c=43 ? I mean the gores 
> in the skirt (or lower part of the dress) - does anybody know?
>
>  Zuzana
>
>
Other people have commented on the lack of evidence for contrasting gores, 
I'm just going to deal with the usual argument for why it 'might' be period. 
A lot of people who like this style argue that if people had been short on 
fabric they would have had to use another fabric for the gores, while this 
is plausible the concept of therefore making a feature of your lack of 
fabric doesn't seem to fit the medieval mindset (it would be an admission 
that I'm too poor to buy enough fabric for one dress, not hey look at me I'm 
so cool and different) . If you ran out of fabric you may have to get a new 
piece from a different dye lot which is a slightly different colour but it 
would be the sort of contrast that isn't readily obvious until you look 
closely. I can't provide a medieval example but I have seen a photo of a mid 
19th century dress which has evidence of piecing done in a very similar 
print but not matching.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 21:34:51 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Really?  How long do you estimate it would take you to make such a gown?

On Nov 12, 2006, at 8:27 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
>
>> I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at 
>> those
>> prices.
>
> Who Knows!  But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that!
>
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 00:08:42 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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About 1/6 of a ton. ;-) sorry, couldn't resist.

On Nov 12, 2006, at 9:19 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> How much is 350 pounds?
>
> On Nov 12, 2006, at 2:35 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
>> Interesting, that you liked it.  It made my eyes bleed, and the
>> authenticity-nut part of me back up hissing and spitting.  I was  
>> also pretty
>> taken aback by the price (starting at 350 pounds??? Wowser!).
>> I guess our respective mileages are varying greatly on this one,  
>> huh? ;oD
>> --sue in montana
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Branwyn Maura" <jauncourt@yahoo.com>
>> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:46 AM
>> Subject: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
>>
>>
>>> Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from  
>>> the early
>> middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of tailoring),  
>> but the
>> use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not really  
>> documentable for
>> this period (I think there is some use of this technique in the 19th
>> century, but I'm not sure).
>>>
>>> It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was*  
>>> documentable...
>>>
>>> Marg.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
> _______________________________________________
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Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Status: RO

Personally, I wouldn't touch it if it were mailed to me, free.  And sure not
for several hundred dollars.  I've seen some seriously tacky cr@p aimed at
the non-sewing SCA crowd (and, I assume at other non-sewing
reenactors/hobbyists of relatively same time frame and required authenticity
level), and that particular gown's right in there with the "please, god,
make it go away" stuff....
IMHO, of course.
--Sue, needing to go fondle some of her wool flannels just to take the taint
away ;o)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> Well, except that in reality what costs $1 in the USA costs £1 in the UK.
So
> from the UK seller's point of view it would be a more accurate reflection
of
> their how much they are earning (in terms of paying the bills, keeping
food
> on the table etc.) if you just change the dollar symbol to a pounds
symbol.
> Now change your estimate to $350 (or even better look at more local
> websites) and see if it's still worth it.
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 2:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
>
>
> >I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at those
> >prices.
> >
> > On Nov 12, 2006, at 7:28 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> >
> >> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
> >>
> >>> How much is 350 pounds?
> >>
> >> $700 USD -- approximately
> >>
> >> susan
> >> -----
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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With a serger? Couple of hours, tops.  Of course, I could build a complete
tent in a couple of hours, when I did it for a living.  Now I deal with maps
and data bases and school buses, thank goodness, and get to do my sewing for
fun.
--Sue in Montana, not Susan in TN ;o)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> Really?  How long do you estimate it would take you to make such a gown?
>
> On Nov 12, 2006, at 8:27 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>
> > Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
> >
> >> I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at
> >> those
> >> prices.
> >
> > Who Knows!  But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that!
> >
> > susan
> > -----
> > Susan Farmer
> > sfarmer@goldsword.com
> > University of Tennessee
> > Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> > http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20061112184607.72095.qmail@web56711.mail.re3.yahoo.com><000001c706c5$daaddda0$a7bfa6d8@pavilion><e4658bd676ad01fab861c62d4c66583b@ntw.net><20061112212859.1r5yhca294j4oo4k@www.goldsword.com><d3692fb21d471c8e8f385e20d9cf5a32@ntw.net><00e801c706d3$dd0d2200$6cd5f5dc@user4712b7d135>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 17:53:01 +1100
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> Personally, I wouldn't touch it if it were mailed to me, free.  And sure 
> not
> for several hundred dollars.  I've seen some seriously tacky cr@p aimed at
> the non-sewing SCA crowd (and, I assume at other non-sewing
> reenactors/hobbyists of relatively same time frame and required 
> authenticity
> level), and that particular gown's right in there with the "please, god,
> make it go away" stuff....
> IMHO, of course.
> --Sue, needing to go fondle some of her wool flannels just to take the 
> taint
> away ;o)
>
In defence of this company in particular the example we've been discussing 
is in their custom made section, so presumably it's a customer's design not 
their own. Their readymade stuff looks fairly good as does most of their 
custom made stuff, and they do describe the fantasy stuff as 'medieval 
inspired' or '15th century inspired' etc. http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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At 03:13 13/11/2006, you wrote:
>I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at 
>those prices.
>
>On Nov 12, 2006, at 7:28 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>
>>Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
>>
>>>How much is 350 pounds?
>>
>>$700 USD -- approximately

This is not an unusual price for a gown of this period, especially if 
it includes fabric. Prices here are very much higher that in the U.S. 
My American friends are often surprised at the prices I charge, and I 
am never without work.

Incidentally, I believe this is one of her fantasy frocks, rather 
than an authentic one, but that is only a guess as I have never 
actually seen any of her clothes or accessories.

Suzi

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 02:27:01 -0600
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I found the dress in thier periods gallery under "The Medieval Age of
Chivalry 1100 -1485. I have not found the wording "Medieval inspired"
anywhere with this dress.
Perhaps they have documentation for the coloured gores.
I have seen at least two "Italian" dresses that look as if they have
different colored gores from the rest of the dress but not in the style that
is on the Chimera site.
I have emailed them to inquire if they may have a source for the different
colored gores.
I found the Buckles and clasps. One needs to go to the haberdashery and up
in the corner in the "search" will take you to the page.

De

----- Original Message -----
In defence of this company in particular the example we've been discussing
is in their custom made section, so presumably it's a customer's design not
their own. Their readymade stuff looks fairly good as does most of their
custom made stuff, and they do describe the fantasy stuff as 'medieval
inspired' or '15th century inspired' etc. http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
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Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:
>>From a purely practical point of view, the piece around the back of the
> neck, forming a circle around the head, made the hood fit extremely well. I
> wore mine outside, in wind, without any fasteners, bobby pins, etc. It just
> sat on my head and I had no problems with it wanting to come off. It is a
> good design for costume purposes.

Yes, I've seen it used for that as well in a Tudor play.  If you don't 
have enough hair to do the anchoring hairstyle underneath, that's a good 
workaround.  When I've worn mine (made based on my hypotheses and with 
the proper hairstyle underneath), it was like a rock.  No movement 
whatsoever.

Melanie

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hoods (was Tudor Tailor -- another review)
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Kimiko Small wrote:
 >
 > After I thought I had it figured out, and made my French hood similar
 > to the one in the Tudor Tailor (as I wanted one before the style
 > shown in the Mary Tudor coin), I found this image in a book on
 > illumination just a couple of weeks later.
 > http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1530/BathshebaHead1.html

Yes, this is another great one and is the earliest profile of the French 
hood that I've seen (earlier ones are of the transition style just 
before)--I just didn't know it was online anywhere.  Danielle 
Nunn-Weinberg pointed it out to me.

 > the lovely
 > French hood I had just finished.
 > http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/1545FrenchHood/index.html But
 > don't worry, I will be making one in the new, improved style.

It does look nice, and is a very good example of that construction. 
Perhaps you can use the front and just replace the back?

 >I would love to see yours when you are done.

It's online, though you can't really see the back very well, at
http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/yellow.html
(especially the second picture)

Taking pictures of this made me appreciate why it's so hard to see the 
details of the backs of French hoods in non-profile paintings--black 
velvet (and black fabric in general) just doesn't reflect light very well!

Melanie

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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks.  I wondered why I didn't know the meaning of godet because it looked like a gore to me.  It was in one of my patterns and confusing.
  Voncile
   

Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:
  Voncile W. Dudley wrote:

>Aren't gores the ones that start at the waist and godets the ones that start somewhere around the thigh? Anyone know the difference, if any?
> 
>
Well, SCA-types tend to call them gores and modern dressmakers tend to 
call them godets and use "gore" to refer to a trapezoidal panel.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Voncile W. Dudley wrote:
 > Aren't gores the ones that start at the waist and godets the ones
 > that start somewhere around the thigh?  Anyone know the difference,
 > if any? Lady Von

In my years in the professional costume industry, I have generally heard 
godet used to refer to a triangular insert and gore for full-length 
shaped sections of a garment--waist to hem for a gored skirt, for 
example.  I haven't really heard gore used to refer to the sections of a 
princess-line gown, though.

Melanie Schuessler

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I love it as well and I also construct and for a lot less expense.  I have one under construction right now.  Can be seen at http://www.wildthangstreasures.com under adult section.  I am undecided as to the trim.  I considered hand painting the design but if I can find just the right trim, I may not paint but right now it's paint.  I have a lovely flowing swirl that I will use either way.
  Lady Von

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
  Interesting, that you liked it. It made my eyes bleed, and the
authenticity-nut part of me back up hissing and spitting. I was also pretty
taken aback by the price (starting at 350 pounds??? Wowser!).
I guess our respective mileages are varying greatly on this one, huh? ;oD
--sue in montana
----- Original Message -----
From: "Branwyn Maura" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the early
middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of tailoring), but the
use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not really documentable for
this period (I think there is some use of this technique in the 19th
century, but I'm not sure).
>
> It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was* documentable...
>
> Marg.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 06:16:29 -0800 (PST)
From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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WELL ! ! !  While I am not all together historically accurate, I do provide a very close garment for those who cannot or do not want to spend a small forturne in order to be able to participate in the Ren Faires.  My garments are well made and with good fabric.  I would be most happy to special make a garment of this nature for a lot less $$$$$.
  Lady Von

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: 
  Personally, I wouldn't touch it if it were mailed to me, free. And sure not
for several hundred dollars. I've seen some seriously tacky cr@p aimed at
the non-sewing SCA crowd (and, I assume at other non-sewing
reenactors/hobbyists of relatively same time frame and required authenticity
level), and that particular gown's right in there with the "please, god,
make it go away" stuff....
IMHO, of course.
--Sue, needing to go fondle some of her wool flannels just to take the taint
away ;o)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> Well, except that in reality what costs $1 in the USA costs £1 in the UK.
So
> from the UK seller's point of view it would be a more accurate reflection
of
> their how much they are earning (in terms of paying the bills, keeping
food
> on the table etc.) if you just change the dollar symbol to a pounds
symbol.
> Now change your estimate to $350 (or even better look at more local
> websites) and see if it's still worth it.
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sylvia Rognstad" 
> To: "Historical Costume" 
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 2:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
>
>
> >I should go into business. Wonder how many this company sells at those
> >prices.
> >
> > On Nov 12, 2006, at 7:28 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> >
> >> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad :
> >>
> >>> How much is 350 pounds?
> >>
> >> $700 USD -- approximately
> >>
> >> susan
> >> -----
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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WOW ! !!  I use a regular machine and it takes me a whillllllllle  to finish a beautiful garment of this nature.  The gown can be constructed using less expensive but good quality fabric.  It would take that long to just lay and cut the pattern (or least for me) but then I have Rheumatoid Arthritis and take frequent breaks but still if I worked straight through it would take much longer than 2 hours.  That is fantastic sewing.  I love to sew the Ren garb but I also provide garments for today's fashion depending on the customer.
   
  Anyway, not all of us who sew for others provide cr@p!
   
  Just my 2 cents worth.
  Lady Von

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: 
  With a serger? Couple of hours, tops. Of course, I could build a complete
tent in a couple of hours, when I did it for a living. Now I deal with maps
and data bases and school buses, thank goodness, and get to do my sewing for
fun.
--Sue in Montana, not Susan in TN ;o)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> Really? How long do you estimate it would take you to make such a gown?
>
> On Nov 12, 2006, at 8:27 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>
> > Quoting Sylvia Rognstad :
> >
> >> I should go into business. Wonder how many this company sells at
> >> those
> >> prices.
> >
> > Who Knows! But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that!
> >
> > susan
> > -----
> > Susan Farmer
> > sfarmer@goldsword.com
> > University of Tennessee
> > Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> > http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 
---------------------------------
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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Dresses with Gores Price
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 09:37:18 -0500
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Status: RO

Your site www.wilthangstreasures.com does not work under Firefox.  When I go
there I see a few words on the screen that are your sections but no working
links.  I thought it was a dead site until I tried it under Internet
Explorer.  You might want to address that with your web person, since it
could interfere with your ability to do business.  BTW, nice work.
-Megan


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Voncile W. Dudley
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 9:03 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Dresses with Gores Price

I love it as well and I also construct and for a lot less expense.  I have
one under construction right now.  Can be seen at
http://www.wildthangstreasures.com under adult section.  I am undecided as
to the trim.  I considered hand painting the design but if I can find just
the right trim, I may not paint but right now it's paint.  I have a lovely
flowing swirl that I will use either way.
  Lady Von

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
  Interesting, that you liked it. It made my eyes bleed, and the
authenticity-nut part of me back up hissing and spitting. I was also pretty
taken aback by the price (starting at 350 pounds??? Wowser!).
I guess our respective mileages are varying greatly on this one, huh? ;oD
--sue in montana
----- Original Message -----
From: "Branwyn Maura" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the early
middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of tailoring), but the
use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not really documentable for
this period (I think there is some use of this technique in the 19th
century, but I'm not sure).
>
> It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was* documentable...
>
> Marg.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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  Lady Von
   
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 
---------------------------------
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Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> In defence of this company in particular the example we've been discussing
> is in their custom made section, so presumably it's a customer's design not
> their own. Their readymade stuff looks fairly good as does most of their
> custom made stuff, and they do describe the fantasy stuff as 'medieval
> inspired' or '15th century inspired' etc. http://chimera-costumes.co.uk/
> Elizabeth

Okay I couldn't resist and looked it up. Actually, this one (if it's the
right one I'm looking at) says it's made to order in standard sizes, so it's
not custom. And IMHO it's ugly, though not as bad as some have said. I know
many people who would love it -- though they are not people who care much
about accuracy. There are some really nice pieces on this site, so I would
imagine these people are making a living making people what they want to
buy, which is all right with me. I do wish they would say that it's not
strictly accurate, which they do on some of their pieces.

Gail Finke

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To: <ladiesofreenacting@yahoogroups.com>, <reenactmentladies@yahoogroups.com>,
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Subject: [h-cost] Need WW1 Corset maker
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Good Morning~

A friend is in need of a WW1 -era corset. Due to medical issues (bad
wrists) she's not able to make her own, so she needs to find a reliable
seamstress who can make it for her. Do any of you know of a reputable
seamstress who can do this? It seems like so many corset makers focus on
Victorian and earlier periods.

Thanks for your time,

Linda

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 08:25:44 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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You must sew awfully fast.  I've been sewing most all my life and I can 
see that taking me a couple days, including cutting of course, so that 
would bring my price, just for labor, up to $400.    I don' think the 
asking price is unreasonable.  My garments are quite well made, though, 
and fully lined if necessary.

Sylrog

On Nov 12, 2006, at 10:51 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> With a serger? Couple of hours, tops.  Of course, I could build a 
> complete
> tent in a couple of hours, when I did it for a living.  Now I deal 
> with maps
> and data bases and school buses, thank goodness, and get to do my 
> sewing for
> fun.
> --Sue in Montana, not Susan in TN ;o)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
>
>
>> Really?  How long do you estimate it would take you to make such a 
>> gown?
>>
>> On Nov 12, 2006, at 8:27 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>>
>>> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
>>>
>>>> I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at
>>>> those
>>>> prices.
>>>
>>> Who Knows!  But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that!
>>>
>>> susan
>>> -----
>>> Susan Farmer
>>> sfarmer@goldsword.com
>>> University of Tennessee
>>> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
>>> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need WW1 Corset maker
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 08:34:46 -0700
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Where does she live?  I can make just about anything but I need to be 
able to do personal fittings in order to guarantee a good fit.

Sylrog

On Nov 13, 2006, at 8:21 AM, Linda Rice wrote:

> Good Morning~
>
> A friend is in need of a WW1 -era corset. Due to medical issues (bad
> wrists) she's not able to make her own, so she needs to find a reliable
> seamstress who can make it for her. Do any of you know of a reputable
> seamstress who can do this? It seems like so many corset makers focus 
> on
> Victorian and earlier periods.
>
> Thanks for your time,
>
> Linda
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Having just helped a young lady with her first sewing project that was
basically this gown in one color.  It took her three sewing sessions
of about two hours each, one session that was to cut out and fit the
gown and I took on the hem and lacing holes by machine (two hours) so
she could wear it for Halloween.  Now, if it had been me sewing it
all, it would have taken two-three hours to sew.  I would have charged
about $75-100 in labor.

Usually my sewing goes fast, it's when I make a mistake and have to
tear something out and redo it that eats up my time.  But I'm also
rather compulsive when I'm working a project, working long hours and
not stoping for meals if I can help it until it's done.

alex

On 11/13/06, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
> You must sew awfully fast.  I've been sewing most all my life and I can
> see that taking me a couple days, including cutting of course, so that
> would bring my price, just for labor, up to $400.    I don' think the
> asking price is unreasonable.  My garments are quite well made, though,
> and fully lined if necessary.
>
> Sylrog
>
> On Nov 12, 2006, at 10:51 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
> > With a serger? Couple of hours, tops.  Of course, I could build a
> > complete
> > tent in a couple of hours, when I did it for a living.  Now I deal
> > with maps
> > and data bases and school buses, thank goodness, and get to do my
> > sewing for
> > fun.
> > --Sue in Montana, not Susan in TN ;o)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:34 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
> >
> >
> >> Really?  How long do you estimate it would take you to make such a
> >> gown?
> >>
> >> On Nov 12, 2006, at 8:27 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> >>
> >>> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
> >>>
> >>>> I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at
> >>>> those
> >>>> prices.
> >>>
> >>> Who Knows!  But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that!
> >>>
> >>> susan
> >>> -----
> >>> Susan Farmer
> >>> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> >>> University of Tennessee
> >>> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> >>> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> h-costume mailing list
> >>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 07:40:21 -0800 (PST)
From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Dresses with Gores Price
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks.  I'm working on it and I am the "webmaster" ha ha....  Am trying to learn front page program but right now am stuck with publisher.  I also have a 360 yahoo where I post some of my work. I think you can click on the links and bring it up that way, don't know for sure.
  Lady Von

"Megan M." <megan@benchite.com> wrote:
  Your site www.wilthangstreasures.com does not work under Firefox. When I go
there I see a few words on the screen that are your sections but no working
links. I thought it was a dead site until I tried it under Internet
Explorer. You might want to address that with your web person, since it
could interfere with your ability to do business. BTW, nice work.
-Megan


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Voncile W. Dudley
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 9:03 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Dresses with Gores Price

I love it as well and I also construct and for a lot less expense. I have
one under construction right now. Can be seen at
http://www.wildthangstreasures.com under adult section. I am undecided as
to the trim. I considered hand painting the design but if I can find just
the right trim, I may not paint but right now it's paint. I have a lovely
flowing swirl that I will use either way.
Lady Von

Sue Clemenger wrote:
Interesting, that you liked it. It made my eyes bleed, and the
authenticity-nut part of me back up hissing and spitting. I was also pretty
taken aback by the price (starting at 350 pounds??? Wowser!).
I guess our respective mileages are varying greatly on this one, huh? ;oD
--sue in montana
----- Original Message -----
From: "Branwyn Maura" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the early
middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of tailoring), but the
use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not really documentable for
this period (I think there is some use of this technique in the 19th
century, but I'm not sure).
>
> It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was* documentable...
>
> Marg.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Lady Von

http://www.wildthangstreasures.com



---------------------------------
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  Lady Von
   
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 
---------------------------------
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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In a message dated 11/12/2006 7:14:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com writes:

Aren't  gores the ones that start at the waist and godets the ones that start 
 somewhere around the thigh?  


******************
 
 
 
I would say a gore is a trapezoidal piece sewn to other gores to make  up a 
complete skirt. Whereas a godat is a piece set into a slit made in a larger  
piece. In theory, you can slit your gores and insert a godet into them if you  
want.
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need WW1 Corset maker
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 11:22:19 -0500
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Hi Sylvia,

We live in Southeastern Virginia, she in Chesapeake to be exact. Yes,
long distance does add to the problem! Corsets by their very nature
requiring exact fit means either she needs to be available for fittings,
or she needs to find a gifted specialist who is accustomed to doing this
by mail. She knows this, fortunately. She's made her own corset before
but is unable to do it again. 

Thanks, I'll pass your e-addy along. 

Linda

On Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:35 AM

Where does she live?  I can make just about anything but I need to be 
able to do personal fittings in order to guarantee a good fit.

Sylrog

On Nov 13, 2006, at 8:21 AM, Linda Rice wrote:

> Good Morning~
>
> A friend is in need of a WW1 -era corset. Due to medical issues (bad
> wrists) she's not able to make her own, so she needs to find a
reliable
> seamstress who can make it for her. Do any of you know of a reputable
> seamstress who can do this? It seems like so many corset makers focus 
> on
> Victorian and earlier periods.
>
> Thanks for your time,
>
> Linda

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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> I would say a gore is a trapezoidal piece sewn to other gores to make up a 
> complete skirt. Whereas a godat is a piece set into a slit made in a larger  
> piece. In theory, you can slit your gores and insert a godet into them if you  
> want.

This all irritates me very much.  You're the third person to say more or less
the same thing, and I was *sure* it was the other way around!

I hate it when I'm wrong!

Emma
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need WW1 Corset maker
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 09:57:17 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm in Colorado so I guess this won't work.  Sorry.

On Nov 13, 2006, at 9:22 AM, Linda Rice wrote:

> Hi Sylvia,
>
> We live in Southeastern Virginia, she in Chesapeake to be exact. Yes,
> long distance does add to the problem! Corsets by their very nature
> requiring exact fit means either she needs to be available for 
> fittings,
> or she needs to find a gifted specialist who is accustomed to doing 
> this
> by mail. She knows this, fortunately. She's made her own corset before
> but is unable to do it again.
>
> Thanks, I'll pass your e-addy along.
>
> Linda
>
> On Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:35 AM
>
> Where does she live?  I can make just about anything but I need to be
> able to do personal fittings in order to guarantee a good fit.
>
> Sylrog
>
> On Nov 13, 2006, at 8:21 AM, Linda Rice wrote:
>
>> Good Morning~
>>
>> A friend is in need of a WW1 -era corset. Due to medical issues (bad
>> wrists) she's not able to make her own, so she needs to find a
> reliable
>> seamstress who can make it for her. Do any of you know of a reputable
>> seamstress who can do this? It seems like so many corset makers focus
>> on
>> Victorian and earlier periods.
>>
>> Thanks for your time,
>>
>> Linda
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirts
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In a message dated 11/13/2006 10:18:53 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
gailscott@eos.net writes:

Okay I  couldn't resist and looked it up. Actually, this one (if it's the
right one  I'm looking at) says it's made to order in standard sizes, so it's
not  custom. And IMHO it's ugly,


************
 
 
I must agree. It is ugly! Let's just peruse the design, shall  we?
 
The different reds look pretty ugly to me, but all personal color choices  
aside....
 
The upper part of the gown is made to look like a gown with hanging  sleeves, 
with tight sleeves from an undergown in brocade showing. So far so  good. Now 
this isn't my period by a long shot, but I'm sure they faked this in  the 
period. Still, would not a T-shaped construction be correct, if not more  common, 
in this time than set in sleeves? [Like I said, it's not my period] If  
there's no armseye seam, this sleeve coming from under another sleeve seems hard  
to fake. Still, it's not unfathomable, and the dress does have set in  
sleeves... so that's OK.
 
But then the whole illusion is destroyed when we get to the  lower skirts. 
Were it a full skirt of brocade with the red overskirts slit  at intervals to 
reveal the brocade, OK. But this is not what we have. We are  stuck with what is 
obviously one pieced layer....a red dress trimmed in the same  brocade as the 
tight sleeves of a supposed undergown. Why go thru all the  trouble to fool 
the eye from the waist up only to kill that illusion with bad  design below?
 
I said it....BAD DESIGN.
 
Let's all learn from it.
 
There should be a LOGIC to designs....a logic that is true from head to  foot.
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Ok, then, what is a gusset? 

>From what I've learned over the years and confirmed by looking a the
following definitions, "Gore" and "Godet" are pretty much the same, with
the godet being specifically that triangular piece which extends upward
from the hem to add fullness to a skirt, and a gore being that or also a
trapezoidal or tapering shape that functions the same way and possibly
extending higher than just the waist/hip area. A gusset is that
triangle, diamond or other shape that we add into the underarm and thigh
areas to give us more room where it is needed, and is sewn in on all
sides. The first two are only sewn on 2 sides. 
*****
Gore (gôr, gr)
n.
1. A triangular or tapering piece of cloth forming a part of something,
as in a skirt or sail.
2. A small triangular piece of land.
tr.v. gored, gor·ing, gores 
1. To provide with a gore.
2. To cut into a gore.

[Middle English, from Old English gra, triangular piece of land.]

*****
Godet
go·det  (g-dt)
n.
A triangular piece of fabric usually set into the hem of a garment to
add fullness.

[French, goblet, godet, from Middle Dutch codde, cylindrical piece of
wood.]

*****
Gusset
gus·set  (gst)
n.
1. A triangular insert, as in the seam of a garment, for added strength
or expansion.
2. A triangular metal bracket used to strengthen a joist.
3. A piece of mail or plate armor protecting the joints in a suit of
armor.

[Middle English, from Old French gousset, perhaps diminutive of gousse,
pod, husk.]

::Linda::
info taken from www.thefreedictionary.com 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirts
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At 17:00 13/11/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 11/13/2006 10:18:53 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>gailscott@eos.net writes:
>
>Okay I  couldn't resist and looked it up. Actually, this one (if it's the
>right one  I'm looking at) says it's made to order in standard sizes, so it's
>not  custom. And IMHO it's ugly,
>
>
>************
>
>
>I must agree. It is ugly! Let's just peruse the design, shall  we?
>
>The different reds look pretty ugly to me, but all personal color choices
>aside....
>
>The upper part of the gown is made to look like a gown with hanging  sleeves,
>with tight sleeves from an undergown in brocade showing. So far so  good. Now
>this isn't my period by a long shot, but I'm sure they faked this in  the
>period. Still, would not a T-shaped construction be correct, if not 
>more  common,
>in this time than set in sleeves? [Like I said, it's not my period] If
>there's no armseye seam, this sleeve coming from under another 
>sleeve seems hard
>to fake. Still, it's not unfathomable, and the dress does have set in
>sleeves... so that's OK.
>
>But then the whole illusion is destroyed when we get to the  lower skirts.
>Were it a full skirt of brocade with the red overskirts slit  at intervals to
>reveal the brocade, OK. But this is not what we have. We are  stuck 
>with what is
>obviously one pieced layer....a red dress trimmed in the same  brocade as the
>tight sleeves of a supposed undergown. Why go thru all the  trouble to fool
>the eye from the waist up only to kill that illusion with bad  design below?
>
>I said it....BAD DESIGN.
>
>Let's all learn from it.
>
>There should be a LOGIC to designs....a logic that is true from head to  foot.

I am beginning to be tired of the incredible rudeness of this list to 
a fellow costumer who doesn't know she is being ripped to pieces. 
Would anyone be so rude to someone who is a list member? I think not. 
The lady obviously makes "good" costumes as well as not so good - 
don't we all? Just because it is not what this list approves of 
doesn't give us the right to be rude.

Her address was given in good faith as someone who might be able to 
supply some goods. I am embarrassed that I gave her name, as I had no 
expectation of the sniping and carping that would go on.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirts
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In a message dated 11/13/2006 12:26:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Her  address was given in good faith as someone who might be able to 
supply  some goods. I am embarrassed that I gave her name, as I had no 
expectation  of the sniping and carping that would go on.



******************
 
The site has some very nice stuff on it. This red thing is NOT one of them.  
Oh well. I don't think the sky is gonna fall.... or her business will suffer. 
I  don't see that it's that big a deal.
 
I clearly stated what I thought was wrong with the design, instead of just  
saying "I don't like it". One can agree or disagree with me. I'd tell her to 
her  face that the skirt treatment destroys the illusion set up by the bodice, 
and  that makes it a poorly thought out design. I don't see why anybody should 
lose  sleep over any of it. I just pointed it out in the hopes that no one 
else making  clothes will mistakenly go down the same path.
 
I'm sure many would find things I make ugly too. [They have!] But that's  
OK...and I'd like to know why they don't like it. I'm not so thin skinned as to  
not be able to take criticism...even catty criticism...and use  it.
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Status: RO

Farah Karim-Cooper of the Globe Theatre Education dept writes:

I am currently looking for two research interns. One for a special project 
compiling a costume glossary resource with Jenny
Tiramani; it would entail going to the BL quite a bit and reading  early 
printed texts-- lexicons and dictionaries etc.  We need someone  with some 
grasp of Latin and perhaps French or Italian, but it's not absolutely vital.

The other person would stay on until July and would help with various 
projects in the research department as well as conducting research for the 
theatre productions while they are in rehearsal. We need either MA or PhD 
(In either Shakespeare/Drama/Theatre or Renaissance Studies)  students who 
wouldn't mind givig up two days a week to the Globe.

Unfortunately,  it is an unpaid internship, but well worth it for the 
experience and access to scholars and theatre artists.

Please contact Farah at farah@shakespearesglobe.com


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	Mon, 13 Nov 2006 10:12:33 PST
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 10:12:33 -0800 (PST)
From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
In-Reply-To: <ccc.2dc90ad.3289f758@aol.com>
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Now that sounds interesting to try!
  Thanks.
  Lady Von

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
  
In a message dated 11/12/2006 7:14:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com writes:

Aren't gores the ones that start at the waist and godets the ones that start 
somewhere around the thigh? 


******************



I would say a gore is a trapezoidal piece sewn to other gores to make up a 
complete skirt. Whereas a godat is a piece set into a slit made in a larger 
piece. In theory, you can slit your gores and insert a godet into them if you 
want.
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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirts
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Glad you meant well but unfortunately it didn't come across that way.
  
******************

The site has some very nice stuff on it. This red thing is NOT one of them. 
Oh well. I don't think the sky is gonna fall.... or her business will suffer. 
I don't see that it's that big a deal.

I clearly stated what I thought was wrong with the design, instead of just 
saying "I don't like it". One can agree or disagree with me. I'd tell her to 
her face that the skirt treatment destroys the illusion set up by the bodice, 
and that makes it a poorly thought out design. I don't see why anybody should 
lose sleep over any of it. I just pointed it out in the hopes that no one 
else making clothes will mistakenly go down the same path.

I'm sure many would find things I make ugly too. [They have!] But that's 
OK...and I'd like to know why they don't like it. I'm not so thin skinned as to 
not be able to take criticism...even catty criticism...and use it.
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  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 
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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirts
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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You put it in great words.  I tried to but your's is much much better.
  Lady Von

Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
  >
>I said it....BAD DESIGN.
>
>Let's all learn from it.
>
>There should be a LOGIC to designs....a logic that is true from head to foot.

I am beginning to be tired of the incredible rudeness of this list to 
a fellow costumer who doesn't know she is being ripped to pieces. 
Would anyone be so rude to someone who is a list member? I think not. 
The lady obviously makes "good" costumes as well as not so good - 
don't we all? Just because it is not what this list approves of 
doesn't give us the right to be rude.

Her address was given in good faith as someone who might be able to 
supply some goods. I am embarrassed that I gave her name, as I had no 
expectation of the sniping and carping that would go on.

Suzi

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fw: Unpaid Internship in London
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Status: RO


On Mon, 13 Nov 2006, Ailith Mackintosh wrote:

> Farah Karim-Cooper of the Globe Theatre Education dept writes:
> 
> I am currently looking for two research interns...

Well, that was fast.

This morning I forwarded that notice on request to an academic-oriented
list. I did not mention whether the notice could be forwarded, and no one
has asked me for permission to forward it elsewhere, but now I wonder if
it's making the rounds through all the costuming/re-enactment lists.

Out of courtesy to the people at the Globe, whose message may now be taken
out of context, I would like to remind folks that the Globe is almost
certainly looking for students currently in a related academic program who
will work for college credit.

--Robin


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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Dresses with Gores Price
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Status: RO

Sigh. I love authenticity, AND I love clothing that borrows beautiful  
elements from the past, AND I am plagued by a syncretistic sense of  
humor that, for instance, prompts me to imagine making a lovely robe  
a la française out of a nice lissere fabric patterned with...scottie  
dogs. The key is to keep them separate, and wear them where appropriate.

However, just FYI, my Lady, when I went to your Web site, none of the  
navigation links seemed to work for me -- I could not get into any of  
your sections.

Lauren
On Nov 13, 2006, at 9:02 AM, Voncile W. Dudley wrote:

> I love it as well and I also construct and for a lot less expense.   
> I have one under construction right now.  Can be seen at http:// 
> www.wildthangstreasures.com under adult section.  I am undecided as  
> to the trim.  I considered hand painting the design but if I can  
> find just the right trim, I may not paint but right now it's  
> paint.  I have a lovely flowing swirl that I will use either way.
>   Lady Von
>
> Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
>   Interesting, that you liked it. It made my eyes bleed, and the
> authenticity-nut part of me back up hissing and spitting. I was  
> also pretty
> taken aback by the price (starting at 350 pounds??? Wowser!).
> I guess our respective mileages are varying greatly on this one,  
> huh? ;oD
> --sue in montana
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Branwyn Maura"
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:46 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
>
>
>> Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the  
>> early
> middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of tailoring),  
> but the
> use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not really  
> documentable for
> this period (I think there is some use of this technique in the 19th
> century, but I'm not sure).
>>
>> It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was*  
>> documentable...
>>
>> Marg.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
>
>   Lady Von
>
>   http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
> _______________________________________________
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Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Status: RO

Ditto,

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Voncile W. Dudley
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 1:24 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirts

You put it in great words.  I tried to but your's is much much better.
  Lady Von

Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
  >
>I said it....BAD DESIGN.
>
>Let's all learn from it.
>
>There should be a LOGIC to designs....a logic that is true from head to
foot.

I am beginning to be tired of the incredible rudeness of this list to 
a fellow costumer who doesn't know she is being ripped to pieces. 
Would anyone be so rude to someone who is a list member? I think not. 
The lady obviously makes "good" costumes as well as not so good - 
don't we all? Just because it is not what this list approves of 
doesn't give us the right to be rude.

Her address was given in good faith as someone who might be able to 
supply some goods. I am embarrassed that I gave her name, as I had no 
expectation of the sniping and carping that would go on.

Suzi

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  Lady Von
   
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 
---------------------------------
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirts
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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ld someone send the link to the actual page this item
is on? I've been all through the Medieval stuff and
don't see it.

MaggiRos

--- Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:


> Okay I couldn't resist and looked it up. Actually,
> this one (if it's the
> right one I'm looking at) says it's made to order in
> standard sizes, so it's
> not custom. 
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At 01:01 PM 11/13/2006, you wrote:
Look in the email header.  There is an "unsubscribe" instruction:
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Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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I'm sure someone on this list can answer this question for me: What the heck is silk 

gazar fabric? 

http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=M162_ 



Thanks!

Tea Rose
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http://www.bartleby.com/61/56/G0065600.html
might help

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of tearoses@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 3:46 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Fabric question

I'm sure someone on this list can answer this question for me: What the heck
is silk 

gazar fabric? 

http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=M162_ 



Thanks!

Tea Rose
________________________________________________________________________
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free AOL Mail and more.
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At 01:46 PM 11/13/2006, you wrote:
>I'm sure someone on this list can answer this question for me: What 
>the heck is silk
>
>gazar fabric?
>
>http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=M162
>
>Thanks!
>
>Tea Rose

To make this URL work, I had to remove the "_" from the end (I edited 
the link in this reply).

According to Encarta: gazar: a stiff loosely woven silk  [Mid-20th 
century. Origin ?].
 From Answers.com: A loosely woven silk with a crisp 
finish.  [Probably ultimately from Arabic qazz, raw silk. See 
<http://www.answers.com/topic//topic/gauze>gauze.]

According to some of the links that came up on Google, it's sometimes 
used for bridal gowns.  It sounds like it's a heavier weight than 
gauze, but of similar loose weave.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 
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A loosely woven silkm with a crisp finiah
http://www.bartleby.com/61/56/G0065600.html

stiff silk: a stiff loosely woven silk
[Mid-20th century. Origin ?] 
http://encarta.msn.com/dictionary_1861674686/gazar.htm

Without having it in your hands, you still don't
really know, but it sounds like it could be wonderful.

MaggiRos

--- tearoses@aol.com wrote:

> I'm sure someone on this list can answer this
> question for me: What the heck is silk 
> 
> gazar fabric? 
> 
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I have Internet Explorer, and it doesn't work for me either.

Gail Finke

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Joan Jurancich wrote:

> At 01:46 PM 11/13/2006, you wrote:
> 
>> I'm sure someone on this list can answer this question for me: What 
>> the heck is silk
>> gazar fabric?
>>
...
> 
> According to some of the links that came up on Google, it's sometimes 
> used for bridal gowns.  It sounds like it's a heavier weight than gauze, 
> but of similar loose weave.


How would it compare with organza or organdy?


Dawn


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At 04:11 PM 11/13/2006, you wrote:
>Joan Jurancich wrote:
>
>>At 01:46 PM 11/13/2006, you wrote:
>>
>>>I'm sure someone on this list can answer this question for me: 
>>>What the heck is silk
>>>gazar fabric?
>...
>>According to some of the links that came up on Google, it's 
>>sometimes used for bridal gowns.  It sounds like it's a heavier 
>>weight than gauze, but of similar loose weave.
>
>How would it compare with organza or organdy?
>
>Dawn

I have no idea.  I only know what I found using Google.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS EMAIL THERE IS A http:// LINK, click on it, go to the bottom of the page that comes up and there is a section to unsubscribe.
  Fare thee well.
  Lady Von

Julie Brautigan <jab@uwm.edu> wrote:
  
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 13:04:22 -0800 (PST)
From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Dresses with Gores Price
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Sorry you had problem accessing my site.  I understand that folks with firefox are unable to access.  If you have internet explorer, that will work.  
  Of course, the fabric as well as the pattern is important but everything for the faire doesn't have to be tee totally historically accurate for a person to attend.  I have made some historically accurate but mostly just what fits the period in time or fantasy. I never advertise historically correct unless it actually meets the standard of history.
  Thanks for your interest.
  Lady Von

Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
  Sigh. I love authenticity, AND I love clothing that borrows beautiful 
elements from the past, AND I am plagued by a syncretistic sense of 
humor that, for instance, prompts me to imagine making a lovely robe 
a la française out of a nice lissere fabric patterned with...scottie 
dogs. The key is to keep them separate, and wear them where appropriate.

However, just FYI, my Lady, when I went to your Web site, none of the 
navigation links seemed to work for me -- I could not get into any of 
your sections.

Lauren
On Nov 13, 2006, at 9:02 AM, Voncile W. Dudley wrote:

> I love it as well and I also construct and for a lot less expense. 
> I have one under construction right now. Can be seen at http:// 
> www.wildthangstreasures.com under adult section. I am undecided as 
> to the trim. I considered hand painting the design but if I can 
> find just the right trim, I may not paint but right now it's 
> paint. I have a lovely flowing swirl that I will use either way.
> Lady Von
>
> Sue Clemenger wrote:
> Interesting, that you liked it. It made my eyes bleed, and the
> authenticity-nut part of me back up hissing and spitting. I was 
> also pretty
> taken aback by the price (starting at 350 pounds??? Wowser!).
> I guess our respective mileages are varying greatly on this one, 
> huh? ;oD
> --sue in montana
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Branwyn Maura"
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:46 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
>
>
>> Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the 
>> early
> middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of tailoring), 
> but the
> use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not really 
> documentable for
> this period (I think there is some use of this technique in the 19th
> century, but I'm not sure).
>>
>> It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was* 
>> documentable...
>>
>> Marg.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>
>
>
> Lady Von
>
> http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
> _______________________________________________
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Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 15:15:32 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help..I've been trying to get removed from this list 
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
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How many addresses do you have subscribed to this list?

How many incarnations of your addresses are subscribed to this list?

If you have a three part domain, like many university mailing
addresses do, that may be what the problem is. Look at the headers
of an email from thelist to see which address and what incarnation
of that address is listed then go to the URL listed at the end of
this message to unsub that address. :)

Chiara


On Mon, November 13, 2006 3:01 pm, Julie Brautigan said:
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: French Hood (was Tudor Tailor review)
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Status: RO

 Wow, that is some really cool information, Melanie. So, does that allow you to draw any conclusions 

about the gable headdress?( http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady5.jpg) 

It almost looks like it could be the same hood, only with the fall(s) attached on the bottom 

instead of the top (and, of course, there were two falls). 



I've always thought that if someone made a timeline of images showing how the gable and French hood 

headdresses evolved from earlier fashions, it would help us figure out what's under there. But then, 

maybe you would need to know what was under there before you could make such a timeline.



Tea Rose
========================



Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 12:55:05 -0600
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review

You can see what is probably a similar construction in those hoods that appear in profile in 

Jane Malcolm-Davies's useful online effigies database, for example
http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=73
http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies/browse/view.asp?id=92
and on Antoinette de Fontette, whose effigy is image 436 on page 221 of 
my edition of Boucher's _20,000 Years of Fashion_.

The same shape appears in every profile image I have found so far, from 1530 on. 

 
Melanie Schuessler



   
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 13:59:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirts
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Now I feel really bad about posting this "gores question". The picture just kind of caught my eye, as I'd heard some people telling me that contrasting gores were accurate in the middle ages - a fact that I wasn't very sure of. So I just wanted to ask. It wasn't meant to doubt the lady's work at all. 
   
  
Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
  
I am beginning to be tired of the incredible rudeness of this list to 
a fellow costumer who doesn't know she is being ripped to pieces. 
Would anyone be so rude to someone who is a list member? I think not. 
The lady obviously makes "good" costumes as well as not so good - 
don't we all? Just because it is not what this list approves of 
doesn't give us the right to be rude.

Her address was given in good faith as someone who might be able to 
supply some goods. I am embarrassed that I gave her name, as I had no 
expectation of the sniping and carping that would go on.

Suzi

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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
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On another list I am on, a topic coming up regarding the relevance the colour blue is to Jewish women came up, relative to the Book of Judith and all the spin off paintings it has created particularly in Italian ren paintings. 

While bantering the topic, I came to find that a certain shade of blue is important to the Jewish culture. I thought that the use of blue on the Judith figures in the paintings marked her visually as a Jewess. Someone suggested that it was not relevant in that regard but connected it to the blue veil of the Virgin - that didn't ring right for me, since Judith is a widow. Rootling a little more, I found that she wore a blue widow's veil - I didn't know that a widow's veil was blue in any culture I just assumed they were always black, so this was news to me. So, is this representation of blue because she is a Jewess, or because she is a widow? And, because of the connection of blue, has anyone noticed that blue is not a well represented colour amongst the Christian nobility? It occurs on occasion in Italian art, according to my memory, I haven't yet done a serious survey to make any real conclusions.

Kathy
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131




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It worked for me and I use Internet Explorer
Wendy
http://strings-n-strands.blog-city.com/

-----Original Message-----
>From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
>Sent: Nov 13, 2006 6:42 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: wildthangs etc.
>
>
>I have Internet Explorer, and it doesn't work for me either.
>
>Gail Finke

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] cloak clasps
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Cloak and Dagger Creations is definately in the US.

Ann in CT
somewhat associated, yadda yadda. ;)

--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> Cloak and Dagger. have not ordered from them and
> have no clue other then
> they might be in the US.
> http://www.cloakmaker.com/clasps/european.html
> 
> De



 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
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In a message dated 11/13/2006 7:51:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca writes:

On  another list I am on, a topic coming up regarding the relevance the 
colour  blue is to Jewish women came up, relative to the Book of Judith and all the 
 spin off paintings it has created particularly in Italian ren paintings.  



Wow!  This stirred up a really vague memory of an article I read,  probably 
15 years ago about a special blue dye--if memory serves, it came from  the 
Mediterranean, and was, similar to Tyrian purple, a shell-fish based vat  dye.  
And it was used by the Hebrews and, again if I'm remembering right,  had a 
ritual significance.
 
As I said, my memories of the article are very vague--maybe someone will be  
able to fill in.  Am I even right, that the dye in question was blue?
 
Ann Wass
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric question
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 20:00:51 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

It's another variation on sheer, crisp silk.

On Nov 13, 2006, at 4:46 PM, tearoses@aol.com wrote:

> I'm sure someone on this list can answer this question for me: What  
> the heck is silk
>
> gazar fabric?
>
> http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=M162_
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tea Rose
> ______________________________________________________________________ 
> __
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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: wildthangs etc.
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Sorry. I may have been updating at the time.  Please try again.
  Lady Von

Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:
  
I have Internet Explorer, and it doesn't work for me either.

Gail Finke

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French hoods (was Tudor Tailor -- another review)
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The illumination was only recently found in a friends book on illuminations, so it is new online. When I saw the image I knew that it was the key image on French hoods since it clearly shows three angles, including that tube. I knew the Mary Tudor coin held a key, as well as the French woodcut, but when it shows up in full color, there is no mistaking any of the details.
   
  The reason why I will remake the whole thing is my hood has only the front portion with no backside or under coif. With the new image, I now believe it is a full coif as the base, with everything else added to that coif. Or at least that is my take on the image.
   
  On your gown and French hood, I love how you look in the whole thing. Very beautifully done. And I agree about that dark hood in a dark background being hard to capture. But you look so very good.
   
  Kimiko
  

Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
    Kimiko Small wrote:
> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1530/BathshebaHead1.html

Yes, this is another great one and is the earliest profile of the French 
hood that I've seen (earlier ones are of the transition style just 
before)--I just didn't know it was online anywhere. Danielle 
Nunn-Weinberg pointed it out to me.

<snip>
It does look nice, and is a very good example of that construction. 
Perhaps you can use the front and just replace the back?

>I would love to see yours when you are done.

It's online, though you can't really see the back very well, at
http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/yellow.html
(especially the second picture)

Taking pictures of this made me appreciate why it's so hard to see the 
details of the backs of French hoods in non-profile paintings--black 
velvet (and black fabric in general) just doesn't reflect light very well!

Melanie


 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
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On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> Wow!  This stirred up a really vague memory of an article I read,
> probably 15 years ago about a special blue dye--if memory serves, it
> came from the Mediterranean, and was, similar to Tyrian purple, a
> shell-fish based vat dye.  And it was used by the Hebrews and, again
> if I'm remembering right, had a ritual significance.

If it's shellfish-based, it would be unlikely to be used by the Hebrews,
at least not post-Sinai, as it would be considered unclean per the kosher
law in Leviticus.

It's worth noting, though, that actual Jewish practice may or may not be
relevant to color symbolism in Christian painting. Time and place are
particularly relevant here. In some Christian art, Jews are signified by
elements of clothing that were designated to Jews by law in a particular
place at a particular time. So, depending on where and when the art was
produced, you might see pointed hats, or yellow badges, or stripes, or
other devices to designate Jewish characters -- but not all at the same
time or place, and the same elements might mean something quite different
in another school of art.

Blue is a traditionally "Jewish" color (the Israeli flag echoes that), but
I can't recall hearing that this is apparent in Christian art, though
perhaps at some time and place it was. In medieval Christian art,
ultramarine blue has long been associated with the Virgin -- usually in
her mantle or robe -- because it was the most expensive available pigment.
(That particular shade is distinct from the woad/indigo blue that was
available for clothing.) For the same reason, artists in various periods
used ultramarine blue to designate certain saints, kings, or important
figures in paintings. I remember noticing significant use of ultramarine
blue at an exhibit of paintings by the Gentilischis (both father and
daughter), and they painted a lot of Judiths and other Biblical heroines,
but I don't know if that was a "Jewish" thing in particular or just an
"important person" designator. By contrast, their Jewish heroines often
had turban-like headwraps, fringes, and other elements of dress that
clearly meant to mark them as Jews/Biblical characters.

But now I am way out of my depth, as I don't have much familiarity with
color symbolism in Italian Renaissance or Baroque art. Someone else may
have a better clue here.

--Robin

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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May I ask what hair style you wear under your hood? I tried the styles mentioned in the Tudor Tailor, and my hair is so thick it wants to fall off my head, and pins are of almost no help. I have mid-back length hair, if that is long enough.
   
  Kimiko
  

Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
  Yes, I've seen it used for that as well in a Tudor play. If you don't 
have enough hair to do the anchoring hairstyle underneath, that's a good 
workaround. When I've worn mine (made based on my hypotheses and with 
the proper hairstyle underneath), it was like a rock. No movement 
whatsoever.

Melanie

 
---------------------------------
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review


> May I ask what hair style you wear under your hood? I tried the styles 
> mentioned in the Tudor Tailor, and my hair is so thick it wants to fall 
> off my head, and pins are of almost no help. I have mid-back length hair, 
> if that is long enough.
>
>  Kimiko
>
Have you tried taping or sewing the braids in place? like this 
http://www.mfgraffix.com/hird/faoilt/hairtape.html or this 
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/hair/Hair%20taping.htm it should be 
more secure that way.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric question
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Quoting tearoses@aol.com:
> I'm sure someone on this list can answer this question for me: What   
> the heck is silk gazar fabric?
> http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=M162_

Picture a heavy organza that's shiny/satiny on one side, at least when  
purchased from FFC.  I got some of their gazar, and though it was  
absolutely GORGEOUS, it was also a nightmare to sew. If I hadn't been  
making the dress for a client who loved the fabric, I would have  
thrown it out.  Or better yet, had a bonfire.  It catches and runs and  
is so slippery you think you're going insane, and the dye job doesn't  
quite go all the way through--if the fabric gets creased you can iron  
it ou, but you'll have a pale line where the crease was.

But it is gorgeous.

-E House


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
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To split off from the actual topic, I recently had a tv show on in the  
background whilst working, and caught a few details about the dye used  
to produce the tekhelet blue as prescribed in the Torah & described in  
the Talmud.  The animal used for it, the hillazon, is now a mystery,  
but the cuttlefish has become a popular suspect.  They showed dye made  
from the cuttlefish and various other suspects, which was quite  
beautiful (lavender/sky blue).

I was fascinated, and wished that I'd been able to pay closer  
attention (can't quite remember the name of the show, either--possibly  
the Naked Archaeologist on History Int'l?).  Anyway, the reason it  
sprang to mind is that the blue that all of the suspects they offered  
for the mysterious hillazon produced dye that looked nothing  
whatsoever like the typical lapis blue used in  
illuminations/paintings.  That means little, as paint colors don't  
directly reflect fabric colors, but there you go.  The color was  
obtainable by available paints, but it's not used; I have, however,  
seen a painting where the tekhelet color was combined with fringe,  
though the color may have just been a coincidence there!

Rambling, now.

-E House

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To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 20:15:18 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
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>> On  another list I am on, a topic coming up regarding the relevance 
>> the 
>> colour  blue is to Jewish women came up, relative to the Book of 
>> Judith and all the 
>>  spin off paintings it has created particularly in Italian ren 
>> paintings.  
> 
> 
> Wow!  This stirred up a really vague memory of an article I read,  
> probably 
> 15 years ago about a special blue dye--if memory serves, it came 
> from  the 
> Mediterranean, and was, similar to Tyrian purple, a shell-fish based 
> vat  dye.  
> And it was used by the Hebrews and, again if I'm remembering right,  
> had a 
> ritual significance.

I was channel-skimming at a friend's this past weekend, and caught part
of a show called "Naked Archaologist" that was discussing a snail-based
blue dye.  In the section I saw, the show host was talking with someone
who had been working on reconstructing the dye recipe based on some
comments in the Talmud (or the commentaries on the Talmud, I'm not sure
which).

I think this show was either on History International or one of the
Discovery Channel spin-offs.  If it's History International, odds are
it'll be rerun.  I'll check next week while cat-sitting and see if I can
find it again.

Leah
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: wildthangs etc.
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I thought it was just me.   I have Internet Explorer and it doesn't 
work for me, either.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Nov 13, 2006, at 6:42 PM, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>
> I have Internet Explorer, and it doesn't work for me either.
>
> Gail Finke
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: wildthangs etc.
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This is all I get.  No links, nothing else.  I can't see anything!  
Help!

<<Wild Thang's Treasures

Check back often to see NEW items added.
 
Give us a call or send email and we will be happy to answer your 
questions.
 

Our goal is to offer unique items at a reasonable price while giving 
personal service to those who contact us.>>

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Nov 13, 2006, at 8:14 PM, Voncile W. Dudley wrote:

> Sorry. I may have been updating at the time.  Please try again.
>   Lady Von
>
> Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:
>
> I have Internet Explorer, and it doesn't work for me either.
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
>   Lady Von
>
>   http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
> _______________________________________________
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I wasn't including cutting time in that estimate--I was thinking in more
industrial/mass quantity terms.  If you're doing a whole bunch of that sort
of thing all at once, you can get really fast at it, and the type of machine
you have can greatly assist in that.  The website didn't say anything, that
I recall, about types of seams used, or finishings on the insides, outside
of the mention of the dress being half-lined.  So I more or less assumed
that it was serged or something similar.  More labor-intensive,
detail-oriented choices would of course take more time! And I certainly
wouldn't want anyone doing this sort of work to under-pay themselves! It's
just that I've only ever done sewing as either a strictly recreational
thing, or in an industrial setting, so my costuming experiences may likely
differ from other people, who are doing it on a more of a "cottage industry"
scale.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> You must sew awfully fast.  I've been sewing most all my life and I can
> see that taking me a couple days, including cutting of course, so that
> would bring my price, just for labor, up to $400.    I don' think the
> asking price is unreasonable.  My garments are quite well made, though,
> and fully lined if necessary.
>
> Sylrog
>
> On Nov 12, 2006, at 10:51 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
> > With a serger? Couple of hours, tops.  Of course, I could build a
> > complete
> > tent in a couple of hours, when I did it for a living.  Now I deal
> > with maps
> > and data bases and school buses, thank goodness, and get to do my
> > sewing for
> > fun.
> > --Sue in Montana, not Susan in TN ;o)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:34 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
> >
> >
> >> Really?  How long do you estimate it would take you to make such a
> >> gown?
> >>
> >> On Nov 12, 2006, at 8:27 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> >>
> >>> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
> >>>
> >>>> I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at
> >>>> those
> >>>> prices.
> >>>
> >>> Who Knows!  But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that!
> >>>
> >>> susan
> >>> -----
> >>> Susan Farmer
> >>> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> >>> University of Tennessee
> >>> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> >>> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> h-costume mailing list
> >>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 19:47:46 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I sew for a living (among other things) and I don't like to rush myself 
too much.  I certainly don't sew fast by commercial industrial 
standards.  That would be too stressful and not at all enjoyable.    I 
was thinking of the dress being lined, faced, etc, when I said it would 
probably take me a couple days.  And I don't sew and serge at the same 
time.  I prefer to sew my seams and then serge them, in case I have to 
take something out.  I realize sewing and serging in one step cuts out 
a lot of extra time.

SYlrog

On Nov 13, 2006, at 7:39 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> I wasn't including cutting time in that estimate--I was thinking in 
> more
> industrial/mass quantity terms.  If you're doing a whole bunch of that 
> sort
> of thing all at once, you can get really fast at it, and the type of 
> machine
> you have can greatly assist in that.  The website didn't say anything, 
> that
> I recall, about types of seams used, or finishings on the insides, 
> outside
> of the mention of the dress being half-lined.  So I more or less 
> assumed
> that it was serged or something similar.  More labor-intensive,
> detail-oriented choices would of course take more time! And I certainly
> wouldn't want anyone doing this sort of work to under-pay themselves! 
> It's
> just that I've only ever done sewing as either a strictly recreational
> thing, or in an industrial setting, so my costuming experiences may 
> likely
> differ from other people, who are doing it on a more of a "cottage 
> industry"
> scale.
> --Sue
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 8:25 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
>
>
>> You must sew awfully fast.  I've been sewing most all my life and I 
>> can
>> see that taking me a couple days, including cutting of course, so that
>> would bring my price, just for labor, up to $400.    I don' think the
>> asking price is unreasonable.  My garments are quite well made, 
>> though,
>> and fully lined if necessary.
>>
>> Sylrog
>>
>> On Nov 12, 2006, at 10:51 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>>
>>> With a serger? Couple of hours, tops.  Of course, I could build a
>>> complete
>>> tent in a couple of hours, when I did it for a living.  Now I deal
>>> with maps
>>> and data bases and school buses, thank goodness, and get to do my
>>> sewing for
>>> fun.
>>> --Sue in Montana, not Susan in TN ;o)
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:34 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
>>>
>>>
>>>> Really?  How long do you estimate it would take you to make such a
>>>> gown?
>>>>
>>>> On Nov 12, 2006, at 8:27 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at
>>>>>> those
>>>>>> prices.
>>>>>
>>>>> Who Knows!  But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that!
>>>>>
>>>>> susan
>>>>> -----
>>>>> Susan Farmer
>>>>> sfarmer@goldsword.com
>>>>> University of Tennessee
>>>>> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
>>>>> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20061113142354.68133.qmail@web33907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 20:00:18 -0700
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Answered privately.
--Sue (from Montana)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 7:23 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> WOW ! !!  I use a regular machine and it takes me a whillllllllle  to
finish a beautiful garment of this nature.  The gown can be constructed
using less expensive but good quality fabric.  It would take that long to
just lay and cut the pattern (or least for me) but then I have Rheumatoid
Arthritis and take frequent breaks but still if I worked straight through it
would take much longer than 2 hours.  That is fantastic sewing.  I love to
sew the Ren garb but I also provide garments for today's fashion depending
on the customer.
>
>   Anyway, not all of us who sew for others provide cr@p!
>
>   Just my 2 cents worth.
>   Lady Von
>
> Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
>   With a serger? Couple of hours, tops. Of course, I could build a
complete
> tent in a couple of hours, when I did it for a living. Now I deal with
maps
> and data bases and school buses, thank goodness, and get to do my sewing
for
> fun.
> --Sue in Montana, not Susan in TN ;o)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sylvia Rognstad"
> To: "Historical Costume"
> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
>
>
> > Really? How long do you estimate it would take you to make such a gown?
> >
> > On Nov 12, 2006, at 8:27 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> >
> > > Quoting Sylvia Rognstad :
> > >
> > >> I should go into business. Wonder how many this company sells at
> > >> those
> > >> prices.
> > >
> > > Who Knows! But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that!
> > >
> > > susan
> > > -----
> > > Susan Farmer
> > > sfarmer@goldsword.com
> > > University of Tennessee
> > > Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> > > http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
>   Lady Von
>
>   http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
> _______________________________________________
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On Monday 13 November 2006 8:14 pm, Voncile W. Dudley wrote:
> Sorry. I may have been updating at the time.  Please try again.

It still doesn't work for me under either Firefox or Mozilla.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20061112184607.72095.qmail@web56711.mail.re3.yahoo.com><000001c706c5$daaddda0$a7bfa6d8@pavilion><e4658bd676ad01fab861c62d4c66583b@ntw.net><20061112212859.1r5yhca294j4oo4k@www.goldsword.com><d3692fb21d471c8e8f385e20d9cf5a32@ntw.net><20061112222738.c3b35j2x1fas884o@www.goldsword.com><06960d7af2d4fdbf1e90f5fe6ad6ce12@ntw.net><002101c706e7$bf5e7880$d9bfa6d8@pavilion><d7c2aea0be20edc31ee161320fbfdf93@ntw.net><001401c70796$14774c80$69bfa6d8@pavilion>
	<13ca1ab070e501953135bfff8733bfb2@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 20:06:15 -0700
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Status: RO

Absolutely! I may have been making incorrect assumptions about the
construction of this dress, but the website wasn't exactly forthcoming with
details! ;o)
I've not really ever bought historically-themed clothing or costumes, as I
usually make my own, but I have definitely purchased my share of
off-the-rack clothing over the years, and have looked at some items that
friends have purchased.  There's an awfully wide range of construction
options out there, and certainly, an item that was more carefully
constructed would be worthy of a higher asking price.  I just don't assume
the reverse, especially given that the website didn't provide many details,
which I've seen a number of others do, especially when they're aiming at a
reenactor's market, in which authentic construction is a definite selling
point for some folks.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> I sew for a living (among other things) and I don't like to rush myself
> too much.  I certainly don't sew fast by commercial industrial
> standards.  That would be too stressful and not at all enjoyable.    I
> was thinking of the dress being lined, faced, etc, when I said it would
> probably take me a couple days.  And I don't sew and serge at the same
> time.  I prefer to sew my seams and then serge them, in case I have to
> take something out.  I realize sewing and serging in one step cuts out
> a lot of extra time.
>
> SYlrog
>
> On Nov 13, 2006, at 7:39 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
> > I wasn't including cutting time in that estimate--I was thinking in
> > more
> > industrial/mass quantity terms.  If you're doing a whole bunch of that
> > sort
> > of thing all at once, you can get really fast at it, and the type of
> > machine
> > you have can greatly assist in that.  The website didn't say anything,
> > that
> > I recall, about types of seams used, or finishings on the insides,
> > outside
> > of the mention of the dress being half-lined.  So I more or less
> > assumed
> > that it was serged or something similar.  More labor-intensive,
> > detail-oriented choices would of course take more time! And I certainly
> > wouldn't want anyone doing this sort of work to under-pay themselves!
> > It's
> > just that I've only ever done sewing as either a strictly recreational
> > thing, or in an industrial setting, so my costuming experiences may
> > likely
> > differ from other people, who are doing it on a more of a "cottage
> > industry"
> > scale.
> > --Sue
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 8:25 AM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
> >
> >
> >> You must sew awfully fast.  I've been sewing most all my life and I
> >> can
> >> see that taking me a couple days, including cutting of course, so that
> >> would bring my price, just for labor, up to $400.    I don' think the
> >> asking price is unreasonable.  My garments are quite well made,
> >> though,
> >> and fully lined if necessary.
> >>
> >> Sylrog
> >>
> >> On Nov 12, 2006, at 10:51 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> >>
> >>> With a serger? Couple of hours, tops.  Of course, I could build a
> >>> complete
> >>> tent in a couple of hours, when I did it for a living.  Now I deal
> >>> with maps
> >>> and data bases and school buses, thank goodness, and get to do my
> >>> sewing for
> >>> fun.
> >>> --Sue in Montana, not Susan in TN ;o)
> >>>
> >>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>> From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
> >>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >>> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:34 PM
> >>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> Really?  How long do you estimate it would take you to make such a
> >>>> gown?
> >>>>
> >>>> On Nov 12, 2006, at 8:27 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at
> >>>>>> those
> >>>>>> prices.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Who Knows!  But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that!
> >>>>>
> >>>>> susan
> >>>>> -----
> >>>>> Susan Farmer
> >>>>> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> >>>>> University of Tennessee
> >>>>> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> >>>>> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> >>>>>
> >>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>> h-costume mailing list
> >>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> h-costume mailing list
> >>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> h-costume mailing list
> >>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Questionable color
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Status: RO

I am working on a 1916 designers' fashion catalog.  I am not sure if something is a color or not.  Please read the following ladies' dress description and let me know if you think porpoise is a color or what.  The color "dove" is not capitalized when used as a color name.  But the word "Porpoise" is.

DESCRIPTION:
"Dove" colored gabardine, with trimmings of navy blue.  "Porpoise" skin silk.  Vest and collar of white organdy.  Smoke pearl buttons and buckle.  Coat of navy blue "Porpoise" skin silk.  Collar and cuffs of "dove" gabardine. 

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20061113142354.68133.qmail@web33907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Sewing speeds was Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle
	ages???
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 17:08:35 +1300
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<< WOW ! !!  I use a regular machine and it takes me a whillllllllle  to
finish a beautiful garment of this nature.  The gown can be constructed
using less expensive but good quality fabric.  It would take that long to
just lay and cut the pattern (or least for me) but then I have Rheumatoid
Arthritis and take frequent breaks but still if I worked straight through it
would take much longer than 2 hours.  That is fantastic sewing.  I love to
sew the Ren garb but I also provide garments for today's fashion depending
on the customer.>>

I have RA too and this weekend overdid the sewing a bit too much to help out
a dance school. I took about 8 200mg Ibuprofen a day as well as up to 4mg
prednisone (usually only on one) on top of my regular medication (including
1000mg of Naprosen)* and am still in terrific pain. The sewing trggered a
massive inflamatory response (from toes to jaw with extra pain in those
areas overused.)

Anyway, just saying it's not just an added burden for time but for time
taken to recover. That said I learnt I have indeed sped up and could be fast
enough for industry standards, but couldn't keep that speed up for more than
a day even with all the above precautions.

European prices do tend more to the expensive but I understand that is as
much to do with relative prices of materials as it does to regular living
costs as well? I know various people on this list have been horrified by the
prices of materials over there.

My own garb will take weeks to do especially as I do so much handsewing. If
it's for myself I can sew at a rate that ensures it's well done but also
isn't overdoing it for my body. I will machine structual seams as I find
handsewing heartbreaking to undo if I need to take material in or let it
out. But then will put in linings by hand and finish hems etc that way. I
have found putting in a seperate lining helps ease the hand sewing burden
and am about to experiment the order I do the construction of my bodices in
to see if I can reduce it even more.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
(my latest costume, Catwoman from Batman Returns only took a couple of weeks
from buying material to final sewing. but again if I was healthier would
have taken much less time.)

* http://www.arthritis.co.za/ra.html
Please read that if you have no idea about RA or even if you htink you know
what arthritis is.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
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Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:
> DESCRIPTION:
> "Dove" colored gabardine, with trimmings of navy blue.  "Porpoise"   
> skin silk.  Vest and collar of white organdy.  Smoke pearl buttons   
> and buckle.  Coat of navy blue "Porpoise" skin silk.  Collar and   
> cuffs of "dove" gabardine.

Are the quotes yours, or did they appear in the original?  Assuming  
they're yours, the conclusion I'd jump to is that 'Porpoise skin'  
denotes a type of fabric, rather than the color.  Porpoise leather  
(actually from beluga, apparently) was widely used in the 18th & 19th  
centuries, so it wouldn't be an outlandish comparison.

-E House

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
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E House,

The quotation marks are what is in the book.

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
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At 07:27 PM 11/13/2006, you wrote:
>I am working on a 1916 designers' fashion catalog.  I am not sure if 
>something is a color or not.  Please read the following ladies' 
>dress description and let me know if you think porpoise is a color 
>or what.  The color "dove" is not capitalized when used as a color 
>name.  But the word "Porpoise" is.
>
>DESCRIPTION:
>"Dove" colored gabardine, with trimmings of navy blue.  "Porpoise" 
>skin silk.  Vest and collar of white organdy.  Smoke pearl buttons 
>and buckle.  Coat of navy blue "Porpoise" skin silk.  Collar and 
>cuffs of "dove" gabardine.
>
>Penny Ladnier,
>Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
>www.costumegallery.com
>www.costumelibrary.com
>www.costumeclassroom.com
>www.costumeencyclopedia.com

Since the second reference to "Porpoise" skin is for the navy blue 
coat, my guess is that the "Porpoise" skin refers to the texture of 
the silk, not the color.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
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Hi Elizabeth,
   
  Yes, I've tried the hair taping (as seen in the second link you gave), and it will only stay on my head if I then wrap the hair in a kertch. It won't stay up on its own, and it wouldn't stay stable for a base for the French hood. Also, it falls apart in the kertch that I wore, and only the wrapping of the fabric around my head kept it from coming down.
   
  Maybe it is because I am doing my own hair, it is very thick, and I really don't do much practice in hair braiding in general. I am not sure what else to try, so I gladly will accept suggestions.
   
  Kimiko
  

Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au> wrote:
  Have you tried taping or sewing the braids in place? like this 
http://www.mfgraffix.com/hird/faoilt/hairtape.html or this 
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/hair/Hair%20taping.htm it should be 
more secure that way.
Elizabeth

 
---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 17:39:41 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
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At 04:54 PM 11/13/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 11/13/2006 7:51:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca writes:
>
>On  another list I am on, a topic coming up regarding the relevance the
>colour  blue is to Jewish women came up, relative to the Book of 
>Judith and all the
>  spin off paintings it has created particularly in Italian ren paintings.
>
>
>
>Wow!  This stirred up a really vague memory of an article I read,  probably
>15 years ago about a special blue dye--if memory serves, it came from  the
>Mediterranean, and was, similar to Tyrian purple, a shell-fish based 
>vat  dye.
>And it was used by the Hebrews and, again if I'm remembering right,  had a
>ritual significance.
>
>As I said, my memories of the article are very vague--maybe someone will be
>able to fill in.  Am I even right, that the dye in question was blue?
>
>Ann Wass

You are probably thinking about the single thread of blue included in 
each of the fringes (tzitzit) on the four corners of a man's garment 
(today it's called a tallit, or prayer shawl).  I'm not aware of any 
special significance of blue in regards to women.  It's probably 
something from the Christian symbolism (Robin, do you have any input on this?).


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
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Hi Penny,
   
  To me, it sounds like the texture of the silk has the appearance of Porpoise skin. I am not reading a color, but then, I don't know much about that time frame for garments.
   
  Kimiko

Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
    I am working on a 1916 designers' fashion catalog. I am not sure if something is a color or not. Please read the following ladies' dress description and let me know if you think porpoise is a color or what. The color "dove" is not capitalized when used as a color name. But the word "Porpoise" is.

DESCRIPTION:
"Dove" colored gabardine, with trimmings of navy blue. "Porpoise" skin silk. Vest and collar of white organdy. Smoke pearl buttons and buckle. Coat of navy blue "Porpoise" skin silk. Collar and cuffs of "dove" gabardine. 

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 


 
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On Tue, 14 Nov 2006, michaela wrote:

> (my latest costume, Catwoman from Batman Returns only took a couple of
> weeks from buying material to final sewing. but again if I was
> healthier would have taken much less time.)

Of course, if you believe the movie, Michelle Pfeiffer did it all in an
evening ;-)

Like the movie version of Cinderella I once saw, in which she created
beautiful ball gowns for both her sisters overnight (in addition to
cleaning the house all day).

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
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This isn't my time frame, either, but what does pop up into my brain, for
some reason, is "shark skin suits."  Could the connotation be similar for
"porpoise skin?"
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable color


> Hi Penny,
>
>   To me, it sounds like the texture of the silk has the appearance of
Porpoise skin. I am not reading a color, but then, I don't know much about
that time frame for garments.
>
>   Kimiko
>
> Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
>     I am working on a 1916 designers' fashion catalog. I am not sure if
something is a color or not. Please read the following ladies' dress
description and let me know if you think porpoise is a color or what. The
color "dove" is not capitalized when used as a color name. But the word
"Porpoise" is.
>
> DESCRIPTION:
> "Dove" colored gabardine, with trimmings of navy blue. "Porpoise" skin
silk. Vest and collar of white organdy. Smoke pearl buttons and buckle. Coat
of navy blue "Porpoise" skin silk. Collar and cuffs of "dove" gabardine.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
> _______________________________________________
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 23:39:22 -0600
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirts
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Posting any question will lead to various replies. No one doubts the woman's
work. What has been happening is a critiquing of the style of the garment. I
believe what is pushing a few buttons are that this garment is being
presented or implied as a gown that would have been worn during the Middle
Ages and this kind o' rankles a few who are seriously into authentic. Plus
the thought of "possible" misinformation being passed on to people can make
one annoyed.
I have emailed to see if she has docs. as her Burgundian rendition and
French gown seems to have some research behind it so perhaps she has found a
source.
Personally, I like the dress though I would change a few things like the
white trim and remove the modern princess seams but the colour is a fine
combination. If I had the figure to wear this, I probably wouldn't wear it
to an Medieval SCA event as I like to shoot little higher on the
"authenticity" meter but I would wear it to a RenFaire, Costume Convention
or a SCI-FI convention.
I do not believe that anyone on this list has been ripping the woman to
shreds but I believe that her gown has been harshly critiqued by a few.
I am glad that you brought up the gore question because there is always the
possibility that someone has found hard proof of it and I have never seen
this company before and probably would not have if you had not asked the
question. And though I probably will not order from them (as I am in the US
and can't afford them) I like to see people's rendition of garments as much
as looking at extent garments. :)

De

-----Original Message-----
Now I feel really bad about posting this "gores question". The picture just
kind of caught my eye, as I'd heard some people telling me that contrasting
gores were accurate in the middle ages - a fact that I wasn't very sure of.
So I just wanted to ask. It wasn't meant to doubt the lady's work at all.


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
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Sorry getting in the middle of the topic. Have you tried braiding your hair
when wet or with a little gel or mousse? Usually it isn't thick hair that is
the problem but how smooth/slick the strands are.
De
-----Original Message-----
Hi Elizabeth,

  Yes, I've tried the hair taping (as seen in the second link you gave), and
it will only stay on my head if I then wrap the hair in a kertch. It won't
stay up on its own, and it wouldn't stay stable for a base for the French
hood. Also, it falls apart in the kertch that I wore, and only the wrapping
of the fabric around my head kept it from coming down.

  Maybe it is because I am doing my own hair, it is very thick, and I really
don't do much practice in hair braiding in general. I am not sure what else
to try, so I gladly will accept suggestions.

  Kimiko



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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
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Hi De,
   
  I don't mind you jumping in a bit. I have braided my hair when wet, as it is easier to control usually. But I haven't thought of adding gel or mousse to the hair. I will have to try that next time, and see if that helps. It should also help the front hairs stay in place, as it gets a bit fluffy on top.
   
  Thanks for the suggestion.
   
  Kimiko
  

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  Sorry getting in the middle of the topic. Have you tried braiding your hair
when wet or with a little gel or mousse? Usually it isn't thick hair that is
the problem but how smooth/slick the strands are.
De

 
---------------------------------
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> > (my latest costume, Catwoman from Batman Returns only took a couple of
> > weeks from buying material to final sewing. but again if I was
> > healthier would have taken much less time.)
>
> Of course, if you believe the movie, Michelle Pfeiffer did it all in an
> evening ;-)

I incorporated this into my skit/Q&A in character in the competition;)
"Don't believe the hype" type of thing;) People were most amused. I also
explained you cannot getinto a catsuit that zips up the back a corset that
laces up the back and knee high boots that are so closely laced while
driving a small car. Certainly not while applying heavy make up and hiding
all your hair under the cowl!

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/other/catwoman.htm
http://pulpspace.net.nz/joomla/index.php?option=com_expose&Itemid=30

More good photos here under "Armageddon Expo and then "cosplay." It's a
flash photo gallery.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com

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Status: RO

Have you tried an inside out French braid? This would give you a little more
to pin into, if needed.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kimiko Small
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 9:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review


Hi Elizabeth,
   
  Yes, I've tried the hair taping (as seen in the second link you gave), and
it will only stay on my head if I then wrap the hair in a kertch. It won't
stay up on its own, and it wouldn't stay stable for a base for the French
hood. Also, it falls apart in the kertch that I wore, and only the wrapping
of the fabric around my head kept it from coming down.
   
  Maybe it is because I am doing my own hair, it is very thick, and I really
don't do much practice in hair braiding in general. I am not sure what else
to try, so I gladly will accept suggestions.
   
  Kimiko
  

Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au> wrote:
  Have you tried taping or sewing the braids in place? like this 
http://www.mfgraffix.com/hird/faoilt/hairtape.html or this 
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/hair/Hair%20taping.htm it should be 
more secure that way.
Elizabeth

 
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Subject: [h-cost] Hair RE:  Tudor Tailor -- another review
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I have thick hair and thick strands so I sympathize. Been using the Fructine
(sp?) stuff and I have smoother hair but keeping it in a French braid isn't
easy anymore. :P
Try the mousse first and if your hair still don't behave then go for the
gel.
De

-----Original Message-----
Hi De,

  I don't mind you jumping in a bit. I have braided my hair when wet, as it
is easier to control usually. But I haven't thought of adding gel or mousse
to the hair. I will have to try that next time, and see if that helps. It
should also help the front hairs stay in place, as it gets a bit fluffy on
top.

  Thanks for the suggestion.

  Kimiko



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Sewing speeds was Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late
	Middleages???
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On Tue, 14 Nov 2006, michaela wrote:

> http://costumes.glittersweet.com/other/catwoman.htm
> http://pulpspace.net.nz/joomla/index.php?option=com_expose&Itemid=30

Oh my goodness, this looks brilliant! And you wear it well.

--Robin

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
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Hi Sharon,
   
  I had to look that one up to understand what you mean. No, I haven't tried it before. I can barely get my hair to do a regular braid, but I am willing to try it and see.
   
  Thanks!
   
  Kimiko
  

"Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
  Have you tried an inside out French braid? This would give you a little more
to pin into, if needed.

 
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> > http://costumes.glittersweet.com/other/catwoman.htm
> > http://pulpspace.net.nz/joomla/index.php?option=com_expose&Itemid=30
>
> Oh my goodness, this looks brilliant! And you wear it well.


Thank you:) And to keep it on h-cost topic... the corset is remarkably
simialr ot the 1900 corset in Corsets and Crinolines by Waugh. The changes
are: shortening the basque/hip panels, cutting it to underbust and (work CF
to CB) combining the first and second body panels and the third and fourth.
It's the most comfortable corset I have and I suspect it's due to the
underbust and the basques. My waist to hip is atm 71cm:98cm and I can get a
rather narrow waist so I think the shaping helps with that but without
compressing my ribs.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
(no idea how to work the rest of the costume into h-cost territory;) Unless
the 1990s are now retro enough...)

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 04:38:12 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] WW1 Ladies  fashions
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This is not my time frame either... I guess by the end of putting this book 
online, I will be more familiar.  There is always room in my brain to learn 
more.  One of the most important things to know about the WW1 era, is that 
this was when the dress hemlines rose above the ankles.  Something the 1920s 
is credited for.  IMO, the WW1-1923 is one of the most creative eras in 
design history.

Some of the designers in the 1916 book, I recognize from the pre-war and 
1920s, like Beer, Jenny, House of Worth, Martial et Armand, Paquin, Drecoll, 
and Agnes. There are some designers that I don't know their background like 
Bernard, Bulloz, and Georgette.  One designer is really bothering me named 
Klein... no first name was provided in the book.  I have three Kleins listed 
in my fashion designer books.  There are Anne, Calvin, and Bernat.  None of 
them were born before 1921.  So this Klein in 1916 can't be them.

Any day, I am supposed to be receiving my latest edition of Survey of 
Historic Costume textbook.  It lists fashion designers by decades.  I hope 
some of these designers are in the book.

I know a lot of these fashion designers are in my L'Art de la Mode magazines 
from this time frame, but the articles are written in French. I can type in 
French but have no idea what it means.  There are small descriptions in 
English and French translations under most of the L'Art. images.   I want to 
take some college French courses at the local community college.  It doesn't 
look good for me to take classes at the university with my students.

There are thumbnails from this 1916 book my Library Updates page: 
http://www.costumegallery.com/updates.htm .  There are 18 of 50 
illustrations in the Library today.  I am sorry for the very small 
thumbnails with the larger watermark on the updates page.  We have to put 
the large watermarks on the public access pages to discourage journal 
websites from linking to them.  Google crawls the updates page daily, so I 
have to be careful with the images on this webpage.   Larger images are 
shown in my Costume Encyclopedia, www.costumeencyclopedia.com .  You can use 
the Encyclopedia for free.  Do a search with the keyword "designer" in the 
Costume field/line.  Today, there are 168 entries and images for designers 
from 1890s-1920s in the Encyclopedia.  The ones shown for 1910s /1916 are 
the ones from this book.   When you click on the "DETAILS" link you will see 
the medium size images.  The images in the database are harder to link to, 
so I can put larger images.

I have photographed a few dresses from the WW1 era.  But they do not look 
like these illustrations.  These 1916 dresses look like more what you would 
wear in the 1980s.  I have found a lot of the women's designs during the 
entire the WW1 era look very much like the 1980s/early 1990s.  I have a 
Delineator magazine from 1918, that shows a jumpsuit like I wore during the 
1980s.  The dresses in the 1916 book reminds me of the dresses the girls 
wore on The Cosby Show.  The second dress by Agnes on the Updates page: 
first row, second image from the left... the hat looks just like the ones I 
have photographed from the VCU collection from the 1930s/40s.  I do know 
because of the War, a lot of designers had to shelf their designs and then 
pull them back out after the War.  So you will see a lot of leftovers 
designs in the 1919-1923 time frame.

>From the fashion industry point-of-view, I do know how the industry had to 
make a lot of adjustments.  I collect fashion industry publications for the 
19th and 20th Centuries.  I am interested on how to textile products got to 
the consumers.  I have a few of the articles in the Library of a 1918 trade 
publication National Association of Retail Clothiers, 
http://www.costumegallery.com/1918/ . These discuss the lifting of the 
textile restrictions and the schedule of the release of goods.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com

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Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 05:06:19 -0600
From: formfunc@formfunction.org
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hair
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I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this problem, since I have  
it too.  My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing I've tried seems  
able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes.  Argh! In fact,  
back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm for more than a  
week or two.

I've considered the french braid thing, but haven't tried it for  
years--my hair may be long enough again that it'd work now (~3 inches  
past waist). Which leads to my other problem: since I'm growing out my  
hair sans trimming, I now have about 6 inches of natural layering (and  
split ends), which means that when I try to hide the ends of my  
braids, they poke out all over the place and look awful.  It seems  
like the french braid idea would make it even harder to hide the ends,  
since there really wouldn't be any place to tuck them out of sight.   
Any bright ideas?

-E House

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Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 06:12:57 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
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In a message dated 11/13/2006 10:28:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
penny@costumegallery.com writes:

But the  word "Porpoise" is.




In that context, it does sound more like a description of the  
fabric--compare it to "sharkskin."
 
Ann Wass
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Funny how this comes up today!

Last night on 'Naked Archeaologist' the show was about the colour blue in 
ancient times.  How it was produced from the snail.  The trick to getting 
blue from the snail was to expose the dye to sunlight.  The ultra violet 
light produces a very vivid blue, if not exposed the dye will come out 
purple.

I thought it was fasinating.

There is also quite a controversy in some sects of the Jewish faith over the 
use of snails or cuttlefish to produce the dye.  The archeaological evidence 
suggests snails though, due to the amount of snail shells at dye sites.

How they suggest the dye is made

rotten dried up snail
caustic soda
boiling water
sunlight

I am not a dyer, so I don't say this would work, I also don't know the 
quantities of each.  It was interesting to see them dye the fibre 
though...when it first came out of the dye pot it was yellow, then once rung 
out of liquid and probably exposed to the air turned blue before their eyes!

Discussion?????


Kelly



An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign.


Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician





>From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
>
>On another list I am on, a topic coming up regarding the relevance the 
>colour blue is to Jewish women came up, relative to the Book of Judith and 
>all the spin off paintings it has created particularly in Italian ren 
>paintings.
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
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In a message dated 11/14/2006 7:00:24 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com writes:

It was  interesting to see them dye the fibre 
though...when it first came out of  the dye pot it was yellow, then once rung 
out of liquid and probably  exposed to the air turned blue before their  eyes!

Discussion?????




That is how a vat dye works.  The most common vat dye is, of course,  indigo 
(also found in woad).  The dye is not water soluble--needs to be  chemically 
reduced to dissolve in water.  The fabric is dipped in the vat,  then as it is 
lifted out and exposed to air, the dyestuff re-oxidizes, and the  blue color 
forms.  Tyrian purple was also a vat dye.  As  the murex were killed in the 
process, the species was just about wiped  out, but a similar dye, from a related 
species, is still used in central  America. There, they have figured out a 
way to make the shellfish give up  its dye without killing it.  
 
Since the color forms in the fibers, it is very fast.  It is true that  you 
get color rinsing out or rubbing off at first, but that is generally excess  
dye.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
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>From: "Kimiko Small"
>> May I ask what hair style you wear under your hood? I tried the styles 
>> mentioned in the Tudor Tailor, and my hair is so thick it wants to 
>> fall off my head, and pins are of almost no help. I have mid-back 
>> length hair, if that is long enough

Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> Have you tried taping or sewing the braids in place? like this  
> http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/hair/Hair%20taping.htm 

This is the method I use.  Thanks for the good website ref!  Before I do 
the braids, though, I part in the center and roll the front of each side 
like this
http://www.marileecody.com/isabel.jpg
That keeps the front under control, and makes those little rolls along 
the hairline.

My hair does not stay with pins, as it's too slippery (or maybe it's the 
shape of my head!).  I have to sew the braids to the hair underneath 
(not just to each other) with ribbon to make it stay.

Kimiko, adding gel or mousse and braiding tightly while wet will help. 
The product will make your hair stick to itself better, and the water 
will keep it all together while you're braiding.  Parting it in the 
center and brushing to either side before braiding in two braids will 
also help--that way the hair you're sewing the braids to is going in the 
ear-to-ear direction instead of the forehead-to-nape direction, and the 
braids can't "slide" down the back of your head once sewn to the rest of 
the hair.

Good luck!  If I can do it with my hair (which doesn't like to stay 
_anywhere_), you can too.

Melanie

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Kimiko Small wrote:
 > The illumination was only recently found in a friends book on
 > illuminations, so it is new online. When I saw the image I knew that
 > it was the key image on French hoods since it clearly shows three
 > angles, including that tube. I knew the Mary Tudor coin held a key,
 > as well as the French woodcut, but when it shows up in full color,
 > there is no mistaking any of the details.

Yes!  Though this is still a fairly early version of the French hood. 
Later ones are slightly different.

 > The reason why I will remake the whole thing is my hood has only the
 > front portion with no backside or under coif. With the new image, I
 > now believe it is a full coif as the base, with everything else added
 > to that coif. Or at least that is my take on the image.

I think you're right.  You'll need to redo the whole back--but you might 
still be able to use the crescent if you can detach the first hood from it.

 > On your gown and French hood, I love how you look in the whole thing.
 > Very beautifully done. And I agree about that dark hood in a dark
 > background being hard to capture. But you look so very good.

:)  Thanks!

Melanie

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tearoses@aol.com wrote:
 > Wow, that is some really cool information, Melanie. So, does that
 > allow you to draw any conclusions about the gable headdress?(
 > http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady5.jpg)
 >
 > It almost looks like it could be the same hood, only with the fall(s)
 > attached on the bottom instead of the top (and, of course, there were 
two falls).

The construction of gable hoods seems to be pretty different from the 
French hood, despite their probable common origins.  I can't really 
speculate about gable hoods (think I'll quit while I'm ahead!).

 > I've always thought that if someone made a timeline of images showing
 > how the gable and French hood
 > headdresses evolved from earlier fashions, it would help us figure
 > out what's under there. But then,
 > maybe you would need to know what was under there before you could
 > make such a timeline.

A timeline can definitely help.  I've developed one for the French hood, 
and from it I can formulate hypotheses about the layers.  I haven't done 
the same for the gable, however.

Melanie

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From: Genie Barrett <maggie.gene@justinanimator.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
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>
>My hair does not stay with pins, as it's too slippery (or maybe it's 
>the shape of my head!).  I have to sew the braids to the hair 
>underneath (not just to each other) with ribbon to make it stay.

This is what I was going to say.  I use a large needle, make sure I 
catch the hair underneath, and work my way slowly around my head.  Do 
it really tight, too.  Space each "stitch" about an inch or so apart, 
and work slowly.  You'll need about 6 or 7 feet (up to two meters) to 
do it right, if not more.

My biggest suggestion, is to do it on a day that you have a lot of 
time and nowhere to go.  It's always more frustrating when you are on 
your way to an event and trying a new hairstyle.

Good luck,
Genie 

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At 14:33 14/11/2006, you wrote:
>tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> > Wow, that is some really cool information, Melanie. So, does that
> > allow you to draw any conclusions about the gable headdress?(
> > http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady5.jpg)
> >
> > It almost looks like it could be the same hood, only with the fall(s)
> > attached on the bottom instead of the top (and, of course, there 
> were two falls).
>
>The construction of gable hoods seems to be pretty different from 
>the French hood, despite their probable common origins.  I can't 
>really speculate about gable hoods (think I'll quit while I'm ahead!).
>
> > I've always thought that if someone made a timeline of images showing
> > how the gable and French hood
> > headdresses evolved from earlier fashions, it would help us figure
> > out what's under there. But then,
> > maybe you would need to know what was under there before you could
> > make such a timeline.
>
>A timeline can definitely help.  I've developed one for the French 
>hood, and from it I can formulate hypotheses about the layers.  I 
>haven't done the same for the gable, however.


Gable headdresses seem to have been made on a metal wire frame. The 
one I made for the Museum of London was based on a copy of the frame 
in the museum. There seems to be a French Hood frame there too, but 
it's like no French Hood shape I've ever seen. The gable has become 
very shabby, as it is in constant use be members of the public, who 
will insist on picking off the jewels.

When I made it I had a copy of the Tudor Tailor, but I am afraid I 
disagreed with quite a lot of the instructions, and ended up doing 
(and re-doing, and re-doing) it until I was happy with the way it looked.

If you want to see it, go here. 
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Vermeer1.jpg The 
Museum took a picture of one of their staff wearing it  hence the 
title - although how they thought it was of Vermeer's period I don't 
know!! (Maybe it resembles the "Girl with the Pearl Earring" painting?)

Suzi

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In a message dated 11/13/2006 9:10:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
formfunc@formfunction.org writes:

To split  off from the actual topic, I recently had a tv show on in the   
background whilst working, and caught a few details about the dye  used  
to produce the tekhelet blue as prescribed in the Torah &  described in  
the Talmud.  The animal used for it, the hillazon,  is now a mystery,  
but the cuttlefish has become a popular  suspect.  They showed dye made  
from the cuttlefish and various  other suspects, which was quite  
beautiful (lavender/sky  blue).



Thanks--that must be what I was thinking of. 
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: wildthangs etc.
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Thanks for trying.  It is a crude site so when I am updating it is inaccessible.  Please try again.
  Lady Von

Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:
  I thought it was just me. I have Internet Explorer and it doesn't 
work for me, either.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Nov 13, 2006, at 6:42 PM, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>
> I have Internet Explorer, and it doesn't work for me either.
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
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  Lady Von
   
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 
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References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10611140012340.25127-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
	<00ce01c707c9$cb1720e0$0301010a@michaela>
Subject: Re: Sewing speeds was Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt
	inlateMiddleages???
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I didn't have a chance to look at it last night, Michaela, but it is very,
very cool! ;o) I don't think I've seen a costume of yours yet that doesn't
make my jaw just drop! I don't think you're afraid to try anything!
I wouldn't worry about discussing the rest of it overly much--wouldn't be
the first time we discussed a recent movie's costumes, but then, since I'm
not a movie/theatre/costume fiend, that's the part of this list I find the
most enlightening and fascinating.
--Sue, in snowy/drippy Montana...

----- Original Message -----
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 1:49 AM
Subject: Re: Sewing speeds was Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt
inlateMiddleages???


> > > http://costumes.glittersweet.com/other/catwoman.htm
> > > http://pulpspace.net.nz/joomla/index.php?option=com_expose&Itemid=30
> >
> > Oh my goodness, this looks brilliant! And you wear it well.
>
>
> Thank you:) And to keep it on h-cost topic... the corset is remarkably
> simialr ot the 1900 corset in Corsets and Crinolines by Waugh. The changes
> are: shortening the basque/hip panels, cutting it to underbust and (work
CF
> to CB) combining the first and second body panels and the third and
fourth.
> It's the most comfortable corset I have and I suspect it's due to the
> underbust and the basques. My waist to hip is atm 71cm:98cm and I can get
a
> rather narrow waist so I think the shaping helps with that but without
> compressing my ribs.
>
> Michaela de Bruce
> http://glittersweet.com
> (no idea how to work the rest of the costume into h-cost territory;)
Unless
> the 1990s are now retro enough...)


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Questionable color
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Status: RO

Perhaps porpoise skin is like shark skin? Texture finish?

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:28 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Questionable color

I am working on a 1916 designers' fashion catalog.  I am not sure if
something is a color or not.  Please read the following ladies' dress
description and let me know if you think porpoise is a color or what.
The color "dove" is not capitalized when used as a color name.  But the
word "Porpoise" is.

DESCRIPTION:
"Dove" colored gabardine, with trimmings of navy blue.  "Porpoise" skin
silk.  Vest and collar of white organdy.  Smoke pearl buttons and
buckle.  Coat of navy blue "Porpoise" skin silk.  Collar and cuffs of
"dove" gabardine. 

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Nov 14 09:21:12 2006
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hair
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 08:13:51 -0600
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I learned a trick once with hairspray. After you have braided, take
hairspray and spray your hand and then smooth it over the braids to hold the
stragglers in place without coating the hair. I learned this trick along
with using hairspray on water stains on a ceiling tile to seal it before you
paint it and spray the edge of satin were you are going to sew a seam to
light baste it and keep the satin from slipping. (haven't tried the last
one)
De

-----Original Message-----
I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this problem, since I have
it too.  My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing I've tried seems
able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes.  Argh! In fact,
back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm for more than a
week or two.


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From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] WW1 Ladies  fashions
To: penny@costumegallery.com, h-costume@indra.com
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Hi Penny,
   
  My Grandparents were married in England in 1916. I have a newspaper clipping picture taken at the time scanned into my 'other' computer.
  I can't access it right now, but from what I recall my grandmother was not wearing a wedding dress, but rather what I would refer to as a 'day dress' or suit. It is above the ankles, but also does not look quite like what is shown in those illustrations. (it also could be that she is wearing a coat over the whole thing, as it was February.)
  I am not very familiar with the styles and terminology of that period, but the dress (coat?) its self reminds me more of the dropped waist style of the 20's but the skirt seems somewhat on the narrow side, whereas her hat is huge - almost "Gibson Girl" in style.
  If you are interested I can email you a copy of the clipping. Just let me know so I can have my husband to switch computers so I can access my files.
   
  Annette T

 	
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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I have had several responses saying site not accessible.  When I update it takes the site down until I have finished.  
   
  Unfortunately, I created the site using Microsoft Publisher and that is the only one I know how to use and it goes through Internet Explorer.  
   
  Anyone interested in a specific item (like dress, umbrella, etc) just email me and I will send picture.  I hope to have a more modern site come 1st of the year but right now I am busy sewing extra garments for upcoming Ren Faire in Mobile, Alabama so my site is suffering for more modern program.
   
  I sew to subsidize my SS retirement so it is very important to me to receive your comments to help me improve my site.  It takes me a week sometimes to create one dress because of my arthritis. I love to sew is why I chose this method to subsidize my income.
   
  Any suggestions/comments are welcome.
   
  Thanks.
   
  Lady Von
  

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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BAY121-F3021856D7C4B22F538616891EB0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 07:43:23 -0700
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Maybe something of the same chemical reaction as when dyeing with woad or
indigo?
My book on "Red Dyes: Cochineal, Madder and Murex Purple," notes a number of
things regarding the use of mollusk secretions as a dye stuff.   There are,
for instance, several types of mollusks used for this, and they occur in
different parts of the world AND produce different shades.  There's a bluish
one called "purpura hyacintha and a more reddish one called purpura blatta
or Tyrian purple."
According to the book, we don't have a lot of details about the actual
process used in making ancient colors like Tyrian purple, although it sounds
like it started with the extraction of the snail, removal of the gland in
question, and then, any one of a number of possibilities.  Too much history
and war and destruction of dye works in the last 3000 years, I guess! ;o(
Further on in the same section, the author discusses purple dyes that occur
in the western hemisphere, and in that area, I found something that sounds
much like what you're talking about.  In 1909, an anthropologist wrote about
mollusk dyeing along the Pacific Coast of Mexico, and mentions:
"' When the cotton thread is moistened with the color secretion it first
turns green.  Then, when it is dried by the rays of the sun, the green turns
purple and becomes permanent.'"
Interestingly, the section closes with a brief discussion on just what we
mean when we say "purple," since it's really not one single color, but
rather an entire ranges of shades.  Some of them are virtually blue, others,
much more distinctly red.  A number of very old texts (such as the Old
Testament) make clear distinctions between red-purple and blue-purple.
There's even some 2nd century apocrypha describing Mary (mother of Jesus)
being specifically honored in being chosen to spin the purple-red and
scarlet-red fibers (I assume wool or silk)--I'm assuming as a young woman,
because when she returns the finished yarns/threads to the priest, there's a
bit of foreshadowing when the priest tells her that she "will be blessed
among all the people of the world."
(The same bit of apocrypha mentions "the gold, the white, the flax, the
silk, the dark blue, the scarlet red, and the purple red", so something
pretty expensive was going on....;o)
--Sue in Montana
p.s.  Oh, yeah, the book I mentioned is "The Red Dyes: Cochineal, Madder,
and Murex Purple," and it's written by Gosta Sandberg.  Out of print, I
believe, but a fascinating read.....

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 4:59 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Blue on Judith


> Funny how this comes up today!
>
> Last night on 'Naked Archeaologist' the show was about the colour blue in
> ancient times.  How it was produced from the snail.  The trick to getting
> blue from the snail was to expose the dye to sunlight.  The ultra violet
> light produces a very vivid blue, if not exposed the dye will come out
> purple.
>
> I thought it was fasinating.
>
> There is also quite a controversy in some sects of the Jewish faith over
the
> use of snails or cuttlefish to produce the dye.  The archeaological
evidence
> suggests snails though, due to the amount of snail shells at dye sites.
>
> How they suggest the dye is made
>
> rotten dried up snail
> caustic soda
> boiling water
> sunlight
>
> I am not a dyer, so I don't say this would work, I also don't know the
> quantities of each.  It was interesting to see them dye the fibre
> though...when it first came out of the dye pot it was yellow, then once
rung
> out of liquid and probably exposed to the air turned blue before their
eyes!
>
> Discussion?????
>
>
> Kelly
>
>
>
> An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign.
>
>
> Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
> >
> >On another list I am on, a topic coming up regarding the relevance the
> >colour blue is to Jewish women came up, relative to the Book of Judith
and
> >all the spin off paintings it has created particularly in Italian ren
> >paintings.
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and more.then map the best
> route! Check out Live Local today!  http://local.live.com/?mkt=en-ca/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Dyes from indigo are similar - indican (indoxyl + glucose), which is
colorless, goes into solution (traditionally by using stale urine for
the ammonia to make the solution basic), the glucose is bacterially
digested, the soluble colorless chemical travels to the fiber, the
indoxyls combine with oxygen while in the fiber to give indigotin &
things turn blue! -absolutely magic! J. N. Lyles (The Art & Craft of
Natural Dyeing) says that the snails seem to produce varying
concentrations of indigotin & dibromoindigo(more reddish purple). The
snail would have the pigments, which are not soluble in water - the
caustic soda & boiling water would make alkaline conditions to release
them to go into the fiber, the air would provide the oxygen to bring out
the color & set it in the fiber. More magic!

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Kelly Grant
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 6:59 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Blue on Judith

Funny how this comes up today!

Last night on 'Naked Archeaologist' the show was about the colour blue
in 
ancient times.  How it was produced from the snail.  The trick to
getting 
blue from the snail was to expose the dye to sunlight.  The ultra violet

light produces a very vivid blue, if not exposed the dye will come out 
purple.

I thought it was fasinating.

There is also quite a controversy in some sects of the Jewish faith over
the 
use of snails or cuttlefish to produce the dye.  The archeaological
evidence 
suggests snails though, due to the amount of snail shells at dye sites.

How they suggest the dye is made

rotten dried up snail
caustic soda
boiling water
sunlight

I am not a dyer, so I don't say this would work, I also don't know the 
quantities of each.  It was interesting to see them dye the fibre 
though...when it first came out of the dye pot it was yellow, then once
rung 
out of liquid and probably exposed to the air turned blue before their
eyes!

Discussion?????


Kelly



An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign.


Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician





>From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
>
>On another list I am on, a topic coming up regarding the relevance the 
>colour blue is to Jewish women came up, relative to the Book of Judith
and 
>all the spin off paintings it has created particularly in Italian ren 
>paintings.
>

_________________________________________________________________
Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and more...then map the
best 
route! Check out Live Local today!  http://local.live.com/?mkt=en-ca/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hair
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 07:55:56 -0700
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Status: RO

It also works to kill wasps and yellow jackets.  Completely OT, I know, but
I just *had* to share! I really hate those buggers.....
I have very slippery, fine hair as well, and decently long (mostly about
bra-strap length...it just won't grow much further), but not in any great
quantity, alas.  I've noticed that I have a LOT more success keeping the
stuff braided and quiescent, and the wispy bits controlled, if it's, well,
not exactly freshly washed.  I suspect that the residual oils remaining even
if I rinse, but don't use shampoo, serve much the same function (in this
case) as would a styling product.  Adds a bit of texture/volume, etc.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 7:13 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hair


> I learned a trick once with hairspray. After you have braided, take
> hairspray and spray your hand and then smooth it over the braids to hold
the
> stragglers in place without coating the hair. I learned this trick along
> with using hairspray on water stains on a ceiling tile to seal it before
you
> paint it and spray the edge of satin were you are going to sew a seam to
> light baste it and keep the satin from slipping. (haven't tried the last
> one)
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this problem, since I have
> it too.  My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing I've tried seems
> able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes.  Argh! In fact,
> back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm for more than a
> week or two.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
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One thing that may help is to have your hair in a not perfectly clean
state. Oiler hair holds together better.

Arlys,
who has the same problem you do

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
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Quoting Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>:
> 
> Since the second reference to "Porpoise" skin is for the navy blue 
> coat, my guess is that the "Porpoise" skin refers to the texture of 
> the silk, not the color.

I agree, and would add that the quotation marks might imply that the silk is
imitation porpoise skin.  I'm thinking of the sandblasted sueded silks available
now.  (Sueded--another leather reference)

Emma
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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sewing speeds was Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle
	ages???
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Glad to hear someone else that suffers with RA and sews understands the flare ups and recovery periods.
  Lady Von

michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
  
I have RA too and this weekend overdid the sewing a bit too much to help out
a dance school. I took about 8 200mg Ibuprofen a day as well as up to 4mg
prednisone (usually only on one) on top of my regular medication (including
1000mg of Naprosen)* and am still in terrific pain. The sewing trggered a
massive inflamatory response (from toes to jaw with extra pain in those
areas overused.)

Anyway, just saying it's not just an added burden for time but for time
taken to recover. That said I learnt I have indeed sped up and could be fast
enough for industry standards, but couldn't keep that speed up for more than
a day even with all the above precautions.

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  Lady Von
   
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 
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Jewish blue dye from mollusk.  VERY Sorry if a false posting was sent.  I'm at work with different email and hit the wrong button.  This should make up for it:  God spoke to Moses and told him that the Children of Israel will wear fringes of blue to remind them of the 10 Commandments.  The technique and art was just about gone thanks to the Romans.  Found this great discussion for you.  http://www.ottmall.com/mj_ht_arch/v8/mj_v8i12.html  Funny how we can rewrite, ruin, or erase history.  Also, there was talk about shows featuring dyes from snails.  I saw a show (on History Channel I believe) that explored the worst jobs for a certain year or era.  Yep, smashing and cooking snails for dyes was one of them.  Pretty horrible.  
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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
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	Middleages???
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Wow!  Great job and you wear it well!
  Lady Von

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
  
On Tue, 14 Nov 2006, michaela wrote:

> http://costumes.glittersweet.com/other/catwoman.htm
> http://pulpspace.net.nz/joomla/index.php?option=com_expose&Itemid=30

Oh my goodness, this looks brilliant! And you wear it well.

--Robin

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Status: RO

What started this train of thought for me was this:  http://www.tekhelet.com/brochure.htm . I didn't realise the importance of blue to the Hebrews or if there was any significance to women. I did a search on biblical Judith and found a quote from the Book of Judith that said she cast off her blue widow's veil and left the city, her beauty was a surprise to the elders.... Judith is considered a heroine but the whole story is by most thought to be fictional by many. Judith is important in that she represents the people overcoming their invaders. When I did a cursory search for Judith paintings, there was an overwhelming number of them that in some way, she was wearing a distinct blue or shades of it, even if just a fold or stripe in a layer. Italians subscribed to the yellow-is-Jewish thing as well, she wore nothing on her head - likely relevant to the story of her casting off her veil.  She doesn't for the most part look any different than any other Italian woman,  it seemed
 the bulk of the non-Italian, 16th c. paintings didn't use this blue indicator however - Cranach being the most noticable in this group. I really don't know how to interpret this one. It would be a fascinating research... just one I don't have the time to sink my teeth into at the moment.

Kathy
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131

> Wow!  This stirred up a really vague memory of an article I read,
> probably 15 years ago about a special blue dye--if memory serves, it
> came from the Mediterranean, and was, similar to Tyrian purple, a
> shell-fish based vat dye.  And it was used by the Hebrews and, again
> if I'm remembering right, had a ritual significance.

If it's shellfish-based, it would be unlikely to be used by the Hebrews,
at least not post-Sinai, as it would be considered unclean per the kosher
law in Leviticus.

<snip>So, depending on where and when the art was
produced, you might see pointed hats, or yellow badges, or stripes, or
other devices to designate Jewish characters -- 
<snip>In medieval Christian art,
ultramarine blue has long been associated with the Virgin -- usually in
her mantle or robe -- because it was the most expensive available pigment.
<snip>
but I don't know if that was a "Jewish" thing in particular or just an
"important person" designator. 

You are probably thinking about the single thread of blue included in 
<snip> I'm not aware of any 
special significance of blue in regards to women.  It's probably 
something from the Christian symbolism <snip>







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Thanks for looking.  Sorry you are having problem.  The navigation bar with the links should show up on the left. Just choose the category and click. I just tried and no problem.  
  Lady Von 

Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:
  This is all I get. No links, nothing else. I can't see anything! 
Help!

<
Check back often to see NEW items added.
 
Give us a call or send email and we will be happy to answer your 
questions.
 

Our goal is to offer unique items at a reasonable price while giving 
personal service to those who contact us.>>

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Nov 13, 2006, at 8:14 PM, Voncile W. Dudley wrote:

> Sorry. I may have been updating at the time. Please try again.
> Lady Von
>
> Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
>
> I have Internet Explorer, and it doesn't work for me either.
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
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Hey, we all have our individual way of sewing.  When I think of a garment sewing time I think about everything involved from the laying out of the pattern to the last detail.  I thought the garment in question was gorgeous not thinking about the authenticity or anything else, just first impression. I use a regular ol sewing machine and such and I don't sew on a large scale.  Those who do are to be complimented for their ability to do such and create beautiful authentic or just Ren garb.
  Smile...you will feel better!  
Lady Von
Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: 
  Absolutely! I may have been making incorrect assumptions about the
construction of this dress, but the website wasn't exactly forthcoming with
details! ;o)
I've not really ever bought historically-themed clothing or costumes, as I
usually make my own, but I have definitely purchased my share of
off-the-rack clothing over the years, and have looked at some items that
friends have purchased. There's an awfully wide range of construction
options out there, and certainly, an item that was more carefully
constructed would be worthy of a higher asking price. I just don't assume
the reverse, especially given that the website didn't provide many details,
which I've seen a number of others do, especially when they're aiming at a
reenactor's market, in which authentic construction is a definite selling
point for some folks.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???


> I sew for a living (among other things) and I don't like to rush myself
> too much. I certainly don't sew fast by commercial industrial
> standards. That would be too stressful and not at all enjoyable. I
> was thinking of the dress being lined, faced, etc, when I said it would
> probably take me a couple days. And I don't sew and serge at the same
> time. I prefer to sew my seams and then serge them, in case I have to
> take something out. I realize sewing and serging in one step cuts out
> a lot of extra time.
>
> SYlrog
>
> On Nov 13, 2006, at 7:39 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
> > I wasn't including cutting time in that estimate--I was thinking in
> > more
> > industrial/mass quantity terms. If you're doing a whole bunch of that
> > sort
> > of thing all at once, you can get really fast at it, and the type of
> > machine
> > you have can greatly assist in that. The website didn't say anything,
> > that
> > I recall, about types of seams used, or finishings on the insides,
> > outside
> > of the mention of the dress being half-lined. So I more or less
> > assumed
> > that it was serged or something similar. More labor-intensive,
> > detail-oriented choices would of course take more time! And I certainly
> > wouldn't want anyone doing this sort of work to under-pay themselves!
> > It's
> > just that I've only ever done sewing as either a strictly recreational
> > thing, or in an industrial setting, so my costuming experiences may
> > likely
> > differ from other people, who are doing it on a more of a "cottage
> > industry"
> > scale.
> > --Sue
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Sylvia Rognstad" 
> > To: "Historical Costume" 
> > Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 8:25 AM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
> >
> >
> >> You must sew awfully fast. I've been sewing most all my life and I
> >> can
> >> see that taking me a couple days, including cutting of course, so that
> >> would bring my price, just for labor, up to $400. I don' think the
> >> asking price is unreasonable. My garments are quite well made,
> >> though,
> >> and fully lined if necessary.
> >>
> >> Sylrog
> >>
> >> On Nov 12, 2006, at 10:51 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> >>
> >>> With a serger? Couple of hours, tops. Of course, I could build a
> >>> complete
> >>> tent in a couple of hours, when I did it for a living. Now I deal
> >>> with maps
> >>> and data bases and school buses, thank goodness, and get to do my
> >>> sewing for
> >>> fun.
> >>> --Sue in Montana, not Susan in TN ;o)
> >>>
> >>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>> From: "Sylvia Rognstad" 
> >>> To: "Historical Costume" 
> >>> Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:34 PM
> >>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> Really? How long do you estimate it would take you to make such a
> >>>> gown?
> >>>>
> >>>> On Nov 12, 2006, at 8:27 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Quoting Sylvia Rognstad :
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> I should go into business. Wonder how many this company sells at
> >>>>>> those
> >>>>>> prices.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Who Knows! But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that!
> >>>>>
> >>>>> susan
> >>>>> -----
> >>>>> Susan Farmer
> >>>>> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> >>>>> University of Tennessee
> >>>>> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> >>>>> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> >>>>>
> >>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>> h-costume mailing list
> >>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> h-costume mailing list
> >>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> h-costume mailing list
> >>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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  Lady Von
   
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 
---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blue on Judith
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Here's another useful page on tekhelet:

http://www.jewishweaving.com/blog/

Suddenly relevant to me as I was thinking of attending a tallit-making
class soon; my oldest son received his grandfather's tallit at his bar
mitzvah, but my youngest will need one in a couple of years, and it might
take me that long to make one if I choose to do that ... in part because I
would want to study the traditions involved, including the blue in the
tefillin strings.

--Robin


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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirts
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 16:24:03 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I guess it's all a matter of whose ox (or gown) gets gored...
(Sorry; the pun fairy made me do it...)
On Nov 13, 2006, at 4:59 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> Now I feel really bad about posting this "gores question". The  
> picture just kind of caught my eye, as I'd heard some people  
> telling me that contrasting gores were accurate in the middle ages  
> - a fact that I wasn't very sure of. So I just wanted to ask. It  
> wasn't meant to doubt the lady's work at all.
>

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hair
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It also helps not to wash your hair the same day you
want to do this. Perfectly clean hair tends to slip
out of tight arrangements.

MaggiRos

--- formfunc@formfunction.org wrote:

> I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this
> problem, since I have  
> it too.  My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing
> I've tried seems  
> able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes. 
> Argh! In fact,  
> back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm
> for more than a  
> week or two.
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Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 13:33:39 -0800 (PST)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I think the original needed a proofreader. There seems
to be an extaneous period after the first "navy blue,
and the quotation marks seem to belong around
"porpoise skin", since in the next sentence that's how
we see those words grouped., You've got something here
called porpoise skin silk that is navy blue in the
trimmings and in the coat.

MaggiRos

--- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:

> I am working on a 1916 designers' fashion catalog. 
> I am not sure if something is a color or not. 
> Please read the following ladies' dress description
> and let me know if you think porpoise is a color or
> what.  The color "dove" is not capitalized when used
> as a color name.  But the word "Porpoise" is.
> 
> DESCRIPTION:
> "Dove" colored gabardine, with trimmings of navy
> blue.  "Porpoise" skin silk.  Vest and collar of
> white organdy.  Smoke pearl buttons and buckle. 
> Coat of navy blue "Porpoise" skin silk.  Collar and
> cuffs of "dove" gabardine. 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood & cute portrait repros
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Quoting Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>:

> museum. There seems to be a French Hood frame there too, but it's like
> no French Hood shape I've ever seen.

I think I might know the French Hood frame you're talking about; it  
puzzles me, too. It's hard to tell from the photo I have, but I wonder  
if it could possibly be the frame for this type of Anglicized half  
French hood, half gable hood:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cecilia.jpg

My only problem with this theory is that the frame I saw curls all the  
way around before going back to the front (argh, hard to describe)  
leaving a little circle inside an obtuse angle, which would mess with  
the angular corner seen in the portraits.  If the circle were on the  
outside of the corner rather than the inside, it'd make perfect sense  
for this, and give a much sharper and stronger corner than if it were  
simply bent into an angle.

Or perhaps it would work as the back curve on this:
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/14264/14264-h/images/30ppi/plate53.jpg

Of course, I've only seen this in 2-d photo form, so I can't tell  
exactly how the whole thing is shaped.

By the way, I just ran across a cute and rather impressive display:
http://www.artnet.de/galleries/Inventory.asp?gid=1158&cid=101304
I could easily quibble with some of the details of the garments, but  
overall it's got a great wow effect.

-E House

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bad...naughty...have some chocolate. :)

-----Original Message-----
I guess it's all a matter of whose ox (or gown) gets gored...
(Sorry; the pun fairy made me do it...)


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The following conference is going on this week. I do hope that the 
proceedings will be published!

Beth Matney

Fashion and Clothing in Late Medieval Europe
16th – 18th November 2006, in Riggisberg (Switzerland)

Conference organized in cooperation with the Department of Medieval History 
at the Historical Institute of the University of Berne

Program: http://www.mittelalter.hist.unibe.ch

The conference is open to all scholars, the number of
participants is restricted.

-----------------------------------------------
Sektion I – Einzelne Gewandelemente / Part I – Individual Pieces of Clothing:
-------------------------------------------------
JUNE SWANN (NORTHAMPTON) European Shoes 1200-1520

RAINER C. SCHWINGES (BERN) Between Gown and Fashion: a Student's Clothes in 
the Late 15th Century

JUTTA ZANDER-SEIDEL (NÜRNBERG) "Haubendämmerung". Frauenkopfbedeckungen 
zwischen Spätmittelalter und Früher Neuzeit

KATHARINA SIMON-MUSCHEID (BERN) Les couvre-chefs au bas moyen-âge: 
marqueurs culturels et signes politiques

NAOMI TARRANT (EDINBURGH) "Cut your coat to suit your cloth" – How a 
Textile Affects the Cut of a Garment

KNUT SCHULZ (BERLIN) Produktion und Vertrieb von Textilien. 
Voraussetzungen, Impulse und Innovationen

--------------------------
Sektion II – Soziale Schichtung und ständische Differenzierung / Part II – 
Clothing and Fashion from Different Social Levels
---------------------------
AMALIA DESCALZO LORENZO (MADRID) Les vêtements royaux du monastère Santa 
Maria la Real de Huelgas

MARGARETA NOCKERT (UPPSALA) Clothing Found in Scandinavia and Greenland

JUTTA CHARLOTTE VON BLOH (DRESDEN) Princely Canons of Clothing and Dynastic 
Historiography – the Garments of Elector Moritz of Saxony (1521-1553)

STEPHAN SELZER (HALLE A.D. SAALE) Adel auf dem Laufsteg. Das Hofgewand an 
reichsfürstlichen Höfen um 1500

FRANCES PRITCHARD (MANCHESTER) Clothing Worn in 14th Century London Based 
on Archaeological Evidence

NEITHARD BULST (BIELEFELD) Signe de distinction. Le vêtement bourgeois en 
Allemagne et en France dans la législation somptuaire.

--------------------------------
Sektion III – Symbolische Aspekte von Kleidung und Mode / Part III – 
Symbolic Aspects of Clothing and Fashion
------------------------------------
EVA SCHLOTHEUBER (MÜNCHEN) Best Clothes and Every-day Attire of Late 
Medieval Nuns

MARIA HAYWARD (WINCHESTER) The Influence of the Liturgical Year on the 
Wardrobe of Henry VIII

JOHANNES PIETSCH (RIGGISBERG) Showing the Body – Shaping the Body. The 
Interaction of Clothing and the Human Figure

KLAUS OSCHEMA (BERN) Amis, favoris, sosies. Le vêtement comme miroir des 
relations personnelles

ROBERTA ORSI-LANDINI (FIRENZE) The Influence of the Medici on International 
Developments of Fashion

GIL BARTHOLEYNS (BRUXELLES) La mode et les Réformes. Discussion sur les 
causes de la transformation du vêtement en Europe (XIIIe–XVIe siècle)


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Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 20:22:08 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Jewish Blue Dye
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Not to mention how the snails felt. :-)
Monica
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sonja
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 10:22 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Jewish Blue Dye


Jewish blue dye from mollusk.  VERY Sorry if a false posting was sent.  I'm
at work with different email and hit the wrong button.  This should make up
for it:  God spoke to Moses and told him that the Children of Israel will
wear fringes of blue to remind them of the 10 Commandments.  The technique
and art was just about gone thanks to the Romans.  Found this great
discussion for you.  http://www.ottmall.com/mj_ht_arch/v8/mj_v8i12.html 
Funny how we can rewrite, ruin, or erase history.  Also, there was talk
about shows featuring dyes from snails.  I saw a show (on History Channel I
believe) that explored the worst jobs for a certain year or era.  Yep,
smashing and cooking snails for dyes was one of them.  Pretty horrible.
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Penny Ladnier wrote:

> I am working on a 1916 designers' fashion catalog.  I am not sure if something is a color or not.  Please read the following ladies' dress description and let me know if you think porpoise is a color or what.  The color "dove" is not capitalized when used as a color name.  But the word "Porpoise" is.
> 
> DESCRIPTION:
> "Dove" colored gabardine, with trimmings of navy blue.  "Porpoise" skin silk.  Vest and collar of white organdy.  Smoke pearl buttons and buckle.  Coat of navy blue "Porpoise" skin silk.  Collar and cuffs of "dove" gabardine. 
> 

My first thought was that it sounded like a type or texture of silk... 
but my gut tells me it's some kind of waterproofed outer wear fabric 
that's being used for this coat. Like Goretex.


Dawn


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Kimiko Small wrote:

>   Maybe it is because I am doing my own hair, it is very thick, and I really don't do much practice in hair braiding in general. I am not sure what else to try, so I gladly will accept suggestions.
>    

My hair is like that too. Gels and hairspray simply do not work to 
control it. It's long, and straight, very fine individually, slippery, 
and there's so much of it that conventional clips and barettes can't 
hold it.

I have discovered that when trying to do 'period' hair I need to make 
several smaller braids. Four, actually. There's one parted from just 
behind the ear with the hair on the sides of the face, which can go over 
the top of the head, or around the back. There's two in the back which 
can be twisted into a bun, or can cross and go around the back of the 
head behind the ear. If you cross the two tails in back and pin them 
under each other, then you can pin the front braids in a loop over your 
ear for a very nice medieval style.

I always start with a full card of hair pins and extra elastics, and I 
expect to have to re-do it in about 4 hours time. :)



Dawn


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You know, my hair seems to be the opposite of this.  Freshly washed I
can get my hair to do just about anything, especially if I start while
it's slightly damp still.  If I try anything with it the day after
it's just won't cooperate.  It feels a little oil, slick maybe, but
few hair things will stay in my hair at that point, except bare rubber
bands.

In general my hair is very fine, silky to the touch.  I have found
that if I only use a conditioner on my hair maybe once a week my hair
behaves and has some tooth to it so I can do things with it more.

So sometimes when I want to put it up and I want it to stay there,
I'll use a sport gel while my hair is a little damp.  Sometimes a
light mist of hair spray before I braid will help as well.  It seems
to goes through phases so what works in say the summer doesn't work in
the winter...

alex

On 11/14/06, MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:
> It also helps not to wash your hair the same day you
> want to do this. Perfectly clean hair tends to slip
> out of tight arrangements.
>
> MaggiRos
>
> --- formfunc@formfunction.org wrote:
>
> > I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this
> > problem, since I have
> > it too.  My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing
> > I've tried seems
> > able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes.
> > Argh! In fact,
> > back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm
> > for more than a
> > week or two.
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood & cute portrait repros
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formfunc@formfunction.org wrote:
> Quoting Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>:
> 
>> museum. There seems to be a French Hood frame there too, but it's like
>> no French Hood shape I've ever seen.

There are two MoL wire frames possibly from French hoods that are 
pictured in The Age of Transition:  The Archaeology of English Culture 
1400-1600.  They're very similar.  Is this what you're referring to?

Each of them has a little ball on both ends of the curve and a spot at 
each side about temple level where the wire makes a small loop before 
continuing on the rest of the curve.

My theory for this is that the little loops in the wire are anchor 
points for firmly attaching the wire to the foundation of the crescent. 
  When I used it this way in my hood, it worked very well.

Melanie

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood (was Tudor Tailor review)
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Suzi Clarke wrote:
> 
> Gable headdresses seem to have been made on a metal wire frame. The one 
> I made for the Museum of London was based on a copy of the frame in the 
> museum. <...>
> If you want to see it, go here. 
> http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Vermeer1.jpg 

Very pretty!  Do the falls in back extend from the two bottom sides of 
the square in back as they do in the Holbein drawing?  They look like 
they're hanging a little straighter than that.

What did you use for stiffening besides the wire frame?

Just curious,
Melanie

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hair
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 20:18:22 -0800
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Hair spray. It's sticky and even holds my fly away hair. (It does get
"crunchy", though.) :-)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of formfunc@formfunction.org
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 3:06 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hair


I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this problem, since I have  
it too.  My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing I've tried seems  
able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes.  Argh! In fact,  
back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm for more than a  
week or two.

I've considered the french braid thing, but haven't tried it for  
years--my hair may be long enough again that it'd work now (~3 inches  
past waist). Which leads to my other problem: since I'm growing out my  
hair sans trimming, I now have about 6 inches of natural layering (and  
split ends), which means that when I try to hide the ends of my  
braids, they poke out all over the place and look awful.  It seems  
like the french braid idea would make it even harder to hide the ends,  
since there really wouldn't be any place to tuck them out of sight.   
Any bright ideas?

-E House

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From: "Elisabeth Doornink" <missdoornink@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hair
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 22:44:48 -0800
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My favorite is Suave Freeze Finish Hair Spray. (Professionals Freeze Hold
Finishing Non-Aerosol Hair Spray) It leaves the hair very, very secure, but
not overly crunch and it still looks natural! We got a whole bunch of sample
bottles a long time ago, and they've lasted well. One bottle got stuck to
the counter when it leaked. ;-) It's known as hair glue around here!

Also, for that slick, fly away hair (I worked with some tonight, actually!)
try it when it's at the 'filthy' stage, or at least when it's wet. 

It also can be in the technique - I've gotten hair into buns that nobody has
ever though possible before. The first pin has to almost hold the entire
thin (important on any updo) and then the rest are just security. 

Quia Christus perpetuo regnat, 
Elisabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon at Collierfam.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 8:18 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hair

Hair spray. It's sticky and even holds my fly away hair. (It does get
"crunchy", though.) :-)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of formfunc@formfunction.org
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 3:06 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hair


I'd be dee-lighted to hear the solution to this problem, since I have  
it too.  My hair is fine but plentiful, and nothing I've tried seems  
able to hold it in place for more than 10 minutes.  Argh! In fact,  
back in the 80s, my hair wouldn't even hold a perm for more than a  
week or two.

I've considered the french braid thing, but haven't tried it for  
years--my hair may be long enough again that it'd work now (~3 inches  
past waist). Which leads to my other problem: since I'm growing out my  
hair sans trimming, I now have about 6 inches of natural layering (and  
split ends), which means that when I try to hide the ends of my  
braids, they poke out all over the place and look awful.  It seems  
like the french braid idea would make it even harder to hide the ends,  
since there really wouldn't be any place to tuck them out of sight.   
Any bright ideas?

-E House

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood (was Tudor Tailor review)
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At 03:44 15/11/2006, you wrote:
>Suzi Clarke wrote:
>>Gable headdresses seem to have been made on a metal wire frame. The 
>>one I made for the Museum of London was based on a copy of the 
>>frame in the museum. <...>
>>If you want to see it, go here. 
>>http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Vermeer1.jpg
>
>Very pretty!  Do the falls in back extend from the two bottom sides 
>of the square in back as they do in the Holbein drawing?  They look 
>like they're hanging a little straighter than that.
>
>What did you use for stiffening besides the wire frame?


There was the wire frame at the front, then a square frame for the 
back, set diagonally. The two were joined/covered with some stiff 
"Vilene" and "Pelmform" (a stiff stuff you use for curtain pelmets). 
This began to crumple while I was working on it, so I reinforced it 
with very short lengths of steel boning from my corset stash. I think 
buckram would probably have been the best answer, but I find that 
very hard to handle these days.

Suzi

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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood & cute portrait repros
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At 03:40 15/11/2006, you wrote:
>formfunc@formfunction.org wrote:
>>Quoting Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>:
>>
>>>museum. There seems to be a French Hood frame there too, but it's like
>>>no French Hood shape I've ever seen.
>
>There are two MoL wire frames possibly from French hoods that are 
>pictured in The Age of Transition:  The Archaeology of English 
>Culture 1400-1600.  They're very similar.  Is this what you're referring to?
>
>Each of them has a little ball on both ends of the curve and a spot 
>at each side about temple level where the wire makes a small loop 
>before continuing on the rest of the curve.
>
>My theory for this is that the little loops in the wire are anchor 
>points for firmly attaching the wire to the foundation of the 
>crescent.  When I used it this way in my hood, it worked very well.
>
>Melanie

I don't know the book to which you refer, but your description sounds 
about right. Good to know it worked for you.

Suzi 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] iron corset
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> There's a line in Eleanora di Firenza's accounts that shows she
> ordered two.  One is in either the Bargello or the Palazzo Vecchio
> collection in Florence.  I saw it last summer.  The docent there
> claimed the steel corset was ordered as an orthotic, rather like a
> backbrace.

http://www.bordersstores.com/features/feature.jsp?file=corset
For more information regarding orthopaedic use. This is from the first
chapter of Corset by Valerie Steele. A most useful little page.

> Another is in the Italian Rennaissance exhibit at the V&A London.
> This one I saw 2 weeks ago, tho I dont recall the owning organization.
> Both of these corsets are steel.  The catalog for "At Home in the
> Italian Rennaissance" states the corset is from the Museo Stibbert
> collection, provenance unknown. The catalog says this corset is for a
> 65cm bust.
http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1487_renaissance/rituals.html
This is one of the few that really does look to be an original as the shape
is right.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com

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The text in the pdf files are in Czech, but there are some paintings I've 
never seen before. And they have pictures of extant garments, too!

http://www.kostym.cz/

Just click on the British flag for English.


Vive omniem diem sit ultimus, ut qui numquam scis ubi ultimus.

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From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] hair taping
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Status: RO

Sorry getting in the middle of the topic. Have you tried braiding your hair
when wet or with a little gel or mousse? Usually it isn't thick hair that is
the problem but how smooth/slick the strands are.
De
-----Original Message-----
Hi Elizabeth,

  Yes, I've tried the hair taping (as seen in the second link you gave), and
it will only stay on my head if I then wrap the hair in a kertch. It won't
stay up on its own, and it wouldn't stay stable for a base for the French
hood. Also, it falls apart in the kertch that I wore, and only the wrapping
of the fabric around my head kept it from coming down.

  Maybe it is because I am doing my own hair, it is very thick, and I really
don't do much practice in hair braiding in general. I am not sure what else
to try, so I gladly will accept suggestions.

  Kimiko
---------------------------------------------
Maybe it has to do with what you're using for the hair taping.  Usually we use single faced satin ribbon.  Comes out in a day.  At one fair we were out of ribbon and so used the lucet braid I had on hand made out of cotton rug warp.  That hair taping stayed in for 3 days!  I slept with a silk scarf over it.  It would have stayed UP longer, but there were too many fuzzies escaping.

I wonder if using cotton twill tape instead of satin ribbon would work better.

Julie

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From: "Elisabeth Doornink" <missdoornink@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] hair taping
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2006 18:00:31 -0800
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I do hair taping just as a modern type hair do, and have found that I either
need to do it when it's wet, or when I've got a bunch of small-ish claw
clips to anchor the hair as I tape it. It's gotten easier and easier as my
hair has grown - a twist of hair reaches from behind one ear over to the
next, and the gravity of the strand helps keep it in place. 

Quia Christus perpetuo regnat, 
Elisabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Julie
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 4:35 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] hair taping

Sorry getting in the middle of the topic. Have you tried braiding your hair
when wet or with a little gel or mousse? Usually it isn't thick hair that is
the problem but how smooth/slick the strands are.
De
-----Original Message-----
Hi Elizabeth,

  Yes, I've tried the hair taping (as seen in the second link you gave), and
it will only stay on my head if I then wrap the hair in a kertch. It won't
stay up on its own, and it wouldn't stay stable for a base for the French
hood. Also, it falls apart in the kertch that I wore, and only the wrapping
of the fabric around my head kept it from coming down.

  Maybe it is because I am doing my own hair, it is very thick, and I really
don't do much practice in hair braiding in general. I am not sure what else
to try, so I gladly will accept suggestions.

  Kimiko
---------------------------------------------
Maybe it has to do with what you're using for the hair taping.  Usually we
use single faced satin ribbon.  Comes out in a day.  At one fair we were out
of ribbon and so used the lucet braid I had on hand made out of cotton rug
warp.  That hair taping stayed in for 3 days!  I slept with a silk scarf
over it.  It would have stayed UP longer, but there were too many fuzzies
escaping.

I wonder if using cotton twill tape instead of satin ribbon would work
better.

Julie

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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming website
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yeah, I was very surprised when I saw this website for the first time, it's really good and it seems to deal with authenticity. Many very useful pictures, really - and links too. And many others... That's not very usual here...I think the author of this webpage used to have another site which is not working now, but I'm not sure...Her "profile" is under Tailors - Catany. 
   
  
Ailith Mackintosh <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:
  The text in the pdf files are in Czech, but there are some paintings I've 
never seen before. And they have pictures of extant garments, too!

http://www.kostym.cz/

Just click on the British flag for English.


Vive omniem diem sit ultimus, ut qui numquam scis ubi ultimus.

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Julie wrote:
>
> I wonder if using cotton twill tape instead of satin ribbon would work better.

I agree.  I use grosgrain ribbon--I think the less slippery, the better!

Melanie

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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] hair taping
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Status: RO

I'm intrigued by the reference to Elizabeth's "second link"--I can't find the message this clearly refers to, and maybe "hair taping" would be helpful to me.

In my annual "Queen of Yore" gig at a Medieval Banquet church fund-raiser, I fight with my hair (and lose) every year. The King and I (haha) don't wear headdresses--in fact, he won't even consent to a crown but last year acquiesced to my proffered filet, another of which I also wore last year to complement him. A proper headdress would be nice, but the logistics of the event, from dressing space on through chair-to-table distance (our thrones have arms) militate against it, as does the King's preference. (The king is a professional and known actor, a wonderful personality, and a very overweight man--I think his objection to crowns, rings, and other encircling things is a result of this last feature, but any of these would encourage me to defer to his strongly expressed sentiments.)

I have hip-length hair, basic beige but dramatically going white in streaks. What I'd like to do is braid it and coil it over my ears (very "yore")--but I can't find a reliable way of anchoring the coils. One year in frustration I gave up and piled it on top of my head and looped pearls around it; one year I just made numerous loops and tied them together above my ears--this looked very Heidi, and they flopped like Beagle's ears when I turned my head...Last year I had a notion of "sewing" the nested coils together with gold cord and then tieing the cord to the filet, but that was an unmitigated disaster that I ripped out with only ten minutes to spare before our grand processional entrance, settling for a bun at the nape of the neck plus those trusty pearls.

Can someone direct me to a website or other directions for appropriate and manageable Yore Hair? The Burgundy-style gown has a standing collar.

Ever grateful--
Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


-----Original Message-----
>From: Elisabeth Doornink <missdoornink@gmail.com>
>Sent: Nov 15, 2006 9:00 PM
>To: 'Historical Costume' <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] hair taping
>
>I do hair taping just as a modern type hair do, and have found that I either
>need to do it when it's wet, or when I've got a bunch of small-ish claw
>clips to anchor the hair as I tape it. It's gotten easier and easier as my
>hair has grown - a twist of hair reaches from behind one ear over to the
>next, and the gravity of the strand helps keep it in place. 
>
>Quia Christus perpetuo regnat, 
>Elisabeth
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Julie
>Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 4:35 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] hair taping
>
>Sorry getting in the middle of the topic. Have you tried braiding your hair
>when wet or with a little gel or mousse? Usually it isn't thick hair that is
>the problem but how smooth/slick the strands are.
>De
>-----Original Message-----
>Hi Elizabeth,
>
>  Yes, I've tried the hair taping (as seen in the second link you gave), and
>it will only stay on my head if I then wrap the hair in a kertch. It won't
>stay up on its own, and it wouldn't stay stable for a base for the French
>hood. Also, it falls apart in the kertch that I wore, and only the wrapping
>of the fabric around my head kept it from coming down.
>
>  Maybe it is because I am doing my own hair, it is very thick, and I really
>don't do much practice in hair braiding in general. I am not sure what else
>to try, so I gladly will accept suggestions.
>
>  Kimiko
>---------------------------------------------
>Maybe it has to do with what you're using for the hair taping.  Usually we
>use single faced satin ribbon.  Comes out in a day.  At one fair we were out
>of ribbon and so used the lucet braid I had on hand made out of cotton rug
>warp.  That hair taping stayed in for 3 days!  I slept with a silk scarf
>over it.  It would have stayed UP longer, but there were too many fuzzies
>escaping.
>
>I wonder if using cotton twill tape instead of satin ribbon would work
>better.
>
>Julie
>
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 2:19 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] hair taping


> I'm intrigued by the reference to Elizabeth's "second link"--I can't find 
> the message this clearly refers to, and maybe "hair taping" would be 
> helpful to me.
>
<snip> Ever grateful--
> Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
These are the two links I posted before 
http://www.mfgraffix.com/hird/faoilt/hairtape.html and 
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/hair/Hair%20taping.htm they are both 
different methods of hair taping as seen in 16th century Italian images, but 
it's also a plausible way of anchoring headwear such as French Hoods (which 
is how the discussion came up) You probably couldn't find it because it was 
under the header 'Tudor Tailor - another review' as part of a discussion of 
their method of recreating the French Hood. If you've got a particular time 
period in mind other than 16th century Italy you probably need a hat, but if 
it's just generic 'medjeeval' then this technique using something non-slip 
to hold your hair in place and some decorative ribbon or trim over the top 
could give you a pretty 'olde worlde' look.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Thank you to everyone who answered my question about porpoise skin.  I 
really appreciate your input.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com

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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 22:36:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks Melanie for the suggestions. I did part the hair and brush to the sides, but that didn't help my hair much. I did not roll the hair, as I was trying for the earlier smooth hair style. The idea of sewing the tape to the rest of the hair may work, so I will try that and see what happens, along with hair products.
   
  Kimiko
  

Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
    <snip>
  This is the method I use. Thanks for the good website ref! Before I do 
the braids, though, I part in the center and roll the front of each side 
like this
http://www.marileecody.com/isabel.jpg
That keeps the front under control, and makes those little rolls along 
the hairline.

My hair does not stay with pins, as it's too slippery (or maybe it's the 
shape of my head!). I have to sew the braids to the hair underneath 
(not just to each other) with ribbon to make it stay.

Kimiko, adding gel or mousse and braiding tightly while wet will help. 
The product will make your hair stick to itself better, and the water 
will keep it all together while you're braiding. Parting it in the 
center and brushing to either side before braiding in two braids will 
also help--that way the hair you're sewing the braids to is going in the 
ear-to-ear direction instead of the forehead-to-nape direction, and the 
braids can't "slide" down the back of your head once sewn to the rest of 
the hair.

Good luck! If I can do it with my hair (which doesn't like to stay 
_anywhere_), you can too.

Melanie


 
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood (was Tudor Tailor review)
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I have plans to do a gathering of images for gabled hoods, which I think developed from earlier "hoods" of the late 1400s. I've been collecting images as I can, and when I get time this winter (I hope) I want to get them online. My next hood will be the gable, as my group does 1520s events, so the gable is a better choice for us.
   
  Kimiko
   
  
Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
  > I've always thought that if someone made a timeline of images showing
> how the gable and French hood
> headdresses evolved from earlier fashions, it would help us figure
> out what's under there. But then,
> maybe you would need to know what was under there before you could
> make such a timeline.

A timeline can definitely help. I've developed one for the French hood, 
and from it I can formulate hypotheses about the layers. I haven't done 
the same for the gable, however.

Melanie

 
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood & cute portrait repros
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Hi E House,
   
  Project Gutenberg is being a pain in showing the image, which it won't allow a direct link like that. So, would you mind telling us what it is you are referring to,and how we can locate that image, please?
   
  Thanks,
   
  Kimiko

formfunc@formfunction.org wrote:
  Or perhaps it would work as the back curve on this:
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/14264/14264-h/images/30ppi/plate53.jpg


 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood (was Tudor Tailor review)
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Hi -
Feel free to use any of these images. All the citations are there...

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/gable.html

- Hope

Kimiko Small wrote:
> I have plans to do a gathering of images for gabled hoods, which I think developed from earlier "hoods" of the late 1400s. I've been collecting images as I can, and when I get time this winter (I hope) I want to get them online. My next hood will be the gable, as my group does 1520s events, so the gable is a better choice for us.
>    
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood (was Tudor Tailor review)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Wonderful, Thank you Hope!
  Kimiko

Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> wrote:
  Hi -
Feel free to use any of these images. All the citations are there...

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/gable.html

- Hope

Kimiko Small wrote:
> I have plans to do a gathering of images for gabled hoods, which I think developed from earlier "hoods" of the late 1400s. I've been collecting images as I can, and when I get time this winter (I hope) I want to get them online. My next hood will be the gable, as my group does 1520s events, so the gable is a better choice for us.
> 

 
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Subject: [h-cost] Naalbinding site of interest
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Status: RO

I thought that this "catalogue of needlebound artefacts"  would be of interest:
http://www.dueppel.de/nadelbind/nadelbkat.htm

Their bibliography is at http://www.dueppel.de/nadelbind/bibliographie.htm

Beth Matney 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood & cute portrait repros
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Status: RO

Quoting MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>:
> Cut and paste the link into the Address line, and it
> works fine. I can't imagine why they don't want you
> clicking directly, but there it is. It's the Holbein
> sketch of Lady Audley.

Yup, sorry about that--or try here for a larger/less clear version:
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Grey,Elizabeth(BAudley)01.jpg
I doubt it would be stiffened like that, anyway, so it's hardly worth  
the trouble! =}

-E house



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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French Hood & cute portrait repros
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Status: RO

Cut and paste the link into the Address line, and it
works fine. I can't imagine why they don't want you
clicking directly, but there it is. It's the Holbein
sketch of Lady Audley.

MaggiRos

--- Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi E House,
>    
>   Project Gutenberg is being a pain in showing the
> image, which it won't allow a direct link like that.
> So, would you mind telling us what it is you are
> referring to,and how we can locate that image,
> please?
>    
>   Thanks,
>    
>   Kimiko
> 
> formfunc@formfunction.org wrote:
>   Or perhaps it would work as the back curve on
> this:
>
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/14264/14264-h/images/30ppi/plate53.jpg
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: French hood and gable hood
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Status: RO

So, I've always wondered, in this painting of Henry VIII's family, 
 ( http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/HenryVIIIfamily1.jpg ) (sorry, I can't find a better copy of that online)
 is Elizabeth of York wearing a predecessor of the gable hood? Or is that considered to be the same thing, just with the side flaps flipped down instead of pinned up? Does anyone have more images of that type of headdress? 
 
 Tea Rose
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French hood and gable hood
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Status: RO

Quoting tearoses@aol.com:
>  is Elizabeth of York wearing a predecessor of the gable hood? Or is  
>  that considered to be the same thing, just with the side flaps   
> flipped down instead of pinned up? Does anyone have more images of   
> that type of headdress?

It's called a kennel hood/headdress--and yep, it is the direct  
ancestor of the gable hood; in fact, most places will just call it  
"early gable hood".  It seems to show up a ton on monumental brasses  
and effigies from around 1490-1510, though not too many paintings.
Here's the Elizabeth of York portrait probably being copied by that  
dynastic portrait:
http://tudorhistory.org/people/eyork/eyork1.jpg

-E House
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Subject: [h-cost] Fw: [SCA-Laurels] Seeking info on dress
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Status: RO

Hi, gang.  A lady on another list is asking about the dress in the link
below.  I'm pretty sure we've discussed it on this list before, but I didn't
save any of the messages.  It's an early ItalianRen style, and the posters
who've responded on the list seem about evenly divided between thinking of
the outfit as a single gown with a contrasting panel, or as two separate
gowns.  I told the original poster I'd ask here, since she isn't on this
list....
Thanks,
Sue


----- Original Message -----

> Good Morning all,
>
> I am looking for any information I can get on the dress in the top picture
> on this link. Specifically has anyone ever seen any other dresses from
this
> period (approx. 1360) with this panel front style? I've found only one
other
> I believe it is Giottino, titled ³Pieta². Can anyone steer me to further
> information on this style?
>
>     Here's the link: http://www.barjaveldesign.com/dresses_1360.htm


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Status: RO

Yes, there is another picture where the donor is wearing a dark brown with a
gold front panel, kneeling near a cross. Giottino "Pieta" or Pieta of San
Remigio
http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/g/p-giottin1.htm
There is a possible 3rd dress. It is from a manuscript and I no longer have
the url. The drawing is not great in that it looks as if it has a red front
panel and the rest of the dress is striped in 4 colors or the red is one of
the stripes and was drawn to fat.
The dress the questioner presents is also under debate by many as to whether
it is a red dress with a white coat dagged at the hem and the gold thingies
are ties to hold the jacket in place. Other think that it is a whole dress
with a red front panel and red gores. and one other theory is that it is a
white dress with a red front panel with dags at the hem showing the lining
of the dress which is red. There is a fresco that shows a dancer with a
dagged hem overdress so the latter is a possibility.

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi, gang.  A lady on another list is asking about the dress in the link
below.  I'm pretty sure we've discussed it on this list before, but I didn't
save any of the messages.  It's an early ItalianRen style, and the posters
who've responded on the list seem about evenly divided between thinking of
the outfit as a single gown with a contrasting panel, or as two separate
gowns.  I told the original poster I'd ask here, since she isn't on this
list....
Thanks,
Sue
----- Original Message -----
> Good Morning all,
>
> I am looking for any information I can get on the dress in the top picture
on this link. Specifically has anyone ever seen any other dresses from this
> period (approx. 1360) with this panel front style? I've found only one
other
> I believe it is Giottino, titled ³Pieta². Can anyone steer me to further
> information on this style?
>
>     Here's the link: http://www.barjaveldesign.com/dresses_1360.htm



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Status: RO

It looks like the style of ANDREA DA FIRENZE (originally Andrea Bonaiuto)
Italian painter, Florentine school (active 1343-1377, Firenze)

http://tinyurl.com/vvk6g



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 11:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Fw: [SCA-Laurels] Seeking info on dress


> Hi, gang.  A lady on another list is asking about the dress in the link
> below.  I'm pretty sure we've discussed it on this list before, but I 
> didn't
> save any of the messages.  It's an early ItalianRen style, and the posters
> who've responded on the list seem about evenly divided between thinking of
> the outfit as a single gown with a contrasting panel, or as two separate
> gowns.  I told the original poster I'd ask here, since she isn't on this
> list....
> Thanks,
> Sue
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> Good Morning all,
>>
>> I am looking for any information I can get on the dress in the top 
>> picture
>> on this link. Specifically has anyone ever seen any other dresses from
> this
>> period (approx. 1360) with this panel front style? I've found only one
> other
>> I believe it is Giottino, titled ³Pieta². Can anyone steer me to further
>> information on this style?
>>
>>     Here's the link: http://www.barjaveldesign.com/dresses_1360.htm
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 14:57:57 -0500
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] kyoto fashion book
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Status: RO

Barnes and Noble has the Kyoto Fashion book (ISBN: 0760782024, Pub.
Date: August 2006), the original one volume version, on sale for
$19.98 (even less if you're a B&N member).

http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?z=y&EAN=9780760782026&itm=36

Katy

-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Fw: [SCA-Laurels] Seeking info on dress
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Status: RO

Now that is an interesting image! I assume that we are talking about the 
one on the left standing in the doorway?

I captured the image and enlarged it (with some additional image 
enhancements) to see the detail better.  The red was showing through the 
slashes at the elbows, but the bottom clearly shows that they are two 
separate garments (where the white dags flip up). I really love the 
oak-leafed dags down the front of both sides of the opening. I took the 
image as far as the resolution allows and would like to examine the sleeves 
and neck better.

I would like to do my own high resolution scan. What is the book that had 
this illustration?

I would be happy to send the image close-ups if needed.

Beth

>Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 22:46:57 -0700
>From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
>
>Hi, gang.  A lady on another list is asking about the dress in the link
>below.  I'm pretty sure we've discussed it on this list before, but I didn't
>save any of the messages.  It's an early ItalianRen style, and the posters
>who've responded on the list seem about evenly divided between thinking of
>the outfit as a single gown with a contrasting panel, or as two separate
>gowns.  I told the original poster I'd ask here, since she isn't on this
>list....
>Thanks,
>Sue
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
> > Good Morning all,
> >
> > I am looking for any information I can get on the dress in the top picture
> > on this link. Specifically has anyone ever seen any other dresses from
>this
> > period (approx. 1360) with this panel front style? I've found only one
>other
> > I believe it is Giottino, titled ³Pieta². Can anyone steer me to further
> > information on this style?
> >
> >     Here's the link: http://www.barjaveldesign.com/dresses_1360.htm


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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: [GBACGCostumers] Stolen Costume
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Status: RO

I'm taking the liberty of forwarding this message to the world-wide
costuming community because our wonderful queen's beautiful dress has
been stolen from her basement in San Francisco, California. If you see
this costume in your area, please use the contact information or
contact the Greater Bay Area Costumers' Guild via their website so we
can get this work of art back where it belongs.

LynnD

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Dorothy Truslow <d_truslow@yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2006 10:48 AM
Subject: [GBACGCostumers] Stolen Costume
To: GBACGCostumers@yahoogroups.com

Forwarded message follows. If you see the costume in your local thrift
shop, please contact Deborah ASAP. Here's hoping it's safely
recovered!

 - Dorothy

 > Help! My San Francisco garage was ransacked Saturday
 > night, November 18. Thieves stole the beautiful Queen's dress I've
 > worn at Folsom Faire, The Revels and at Valhalla; to be more
 > precise, they took the bodice, sleeves and overskirt.
 >
 > Designed and made by Liz Martin, this unique purple
 > (okay, aubergine) velvet confection—beaded and pearled to within an
 > inch of its life by the fabulous women of St. Matthews Guild—weighs at
 > least 30 pounds.
 >
 > Pictures here:
 > http://www.folsomfaire.com/StMPhotos/PhotosF05Q1.htm
 >
 > The SFPD is looking for it. The officers who took
 > the report say it's likely to turn up since it's so unusual; one of the
 > officers is a Faire fan and even asked about Dickens.
 >
 > As you shop Bay Area costume and thrift shops for
 > your pleasure this season, please keep an eye out for the dress. It's
 > tough to miss.
 >
 > (Yes, we've had security issues before. I was taking
 > the dress up to my Dad's for safekeeping at Thanksgiving. Sigh.)
 >
 > Generous reward offered. Please spread the word.
 >
 > Thanks so much.
 >
 > Deborah Doyle (cell: 415-269-0540)

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]  Seeking info on dress
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 15:53:33 -0600
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The one corner can also be interpreted as an overlap that one gets with
flared bottom. The corner section could be the hem of the white part or it
could be shadow. The left on the hem seems to indicate that the red
continues with the white in a manner that some gores made of certain
materials would lay.
This is the first I have heard the gold thingies as dags. I would not
consider them dags because they are quite small, the way they lay on the
dress, the spacing and the connection points between the thingies and
dress(?) is a bit narrow.
The "slash" seems to ride along the trim so it could be a slash or remnants
of what is left from the "trim". I not sure I would agree that it is a slash
but it is a possibility. If a slash, there is also the possibility that it
is the lining of the dress and not a separate gown from the white.

De

-----Original Message-----
Now that is an interesting image! I assume that we are talking about the one
on the left standing in the doorway?

I captured the image and enlarged it (with some additional image
enhancements) to see the detail better.  The red was showing through the
slashes at the elbows, but the bottom clearly shows that they are two
separate garments (where the white dags flip up). I really love the
oak-leafed dags down the front of both sides of the opening. I took the
image as far as the resolution allows and would like to examine the sleeves
and neck better.

I would like to do my own high resolution scan. What is the book that had
this illustration?

I would be happy to send the image close-ups if needed.

Beth

>Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 22:46:57 -0700
>From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
>
>Hi, gang.  A lady on another list is asking about the dress in the link
>below.  I'm pretty sure we've discussed it on this list before, but I
didn't
>save any of the messages.  It's an early ItalianRen style, and the posters
>who've responded on the list seem about evenly divided between thinking of
>the outfit as a single gown with a contrasting panel, or as two separate
>gowns.  I told the original poster I'd ask here, since she isn't on this
>list....
>Thanks,
>Sue
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
> > Good Morning all,
> >
> > I am looking for any information I can get on the dress in the top
picture
> > on this link. Specifically has anyone ever seen any other dresses from
>this
> > period (approx. 1360) with this panel front style? I've found only one
>other
> > I believe it is Giottino, titled ³Pieta². Can anyone steer me to further
> > information on this style?
> >
> >     Here's the link: http://www.barjaveldesign.com/dresses_1360.htm


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From: "H_Costume" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>,
        "Rory Downward" <rmdownward@yahoo.com>,
        "Thena MacArthur" <Thena.MacArthur@reuters.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: [GBACGCostumers] Stolen Costume
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 14:22:32 -0800
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I've sent it to the costumer's alliance here in the bay area, which should 
reach all of the main scholastic and rental organizations.

What about the CSA?  Is that worth a shot?

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Rory Downward" <rmdownward@yahoo.com>; "Thena MacArthur" 
<Thena.MacArthur@reuters.com>; "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: [GBACGCostumers] Stolen Costume


> I'm taking the liberty of forwarding this message to the world-wide
> costuming community because our wonderful queen's beautiful dress has
> been stolen from her basement in San Francisco, California. If you see
> this costume in your area, please use the contact information or
> contact the Greater Bay Area Costumers' Guild via their website so we
> can get this work of art back where it belongs.
>
> LynnD
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Dorothy Truslow <d_truslow@yahoo.com>
> Date: Nov 20, 2006 10:48 AM
> Subject: [GBACGCostumers] Stolen Costume
> To: GBACGCostumers@yahoogroups.com
>
> Forwarded message follows. If you see the costume in your local thrift
> shop, please contact Deborah ASAP. Here's hoping it's safely
> recovered!
>
> - Dorothy
>
> > Help! My San Francisco garage was ransacked Saturday
> > night, November 18. Thieves stole the beautiful Queen's dress I've
> > worn at Folsom Faire, The Revels and at Valhalla; to be more
> > precise, they took the bodice, sleeves and overskirt.
> >
> > Designed and made by Liz Martin, this unique purple
> > (okay, aubergine) velvet confection—beaded and pearled to within an
> > inch of its life by the fabulous women of St. Matthews Guild—weighs at
> > least 30 pounds.
> >
> > Pictures here:
> > http://www.folsomfaire.com/StMPhotos/PhotosF05Q1.htm
> >
> > The SFPD is looking for it. The officers who took
> > the report say it's likely to turn up since it's so unusual; one of the
> > officers is a Faire fan and even asked about Dickens.
> >
> > As you shop Bay Area costume and thrift shops for
> > your pleasure this season, please keep an eye out for the dress. It's
> > tough to miss.
> >
> > (Yes, we've had security issues before. I was taking
> > the dress up to my Dad's for safekeeping at Thanksgiving. Sigh.)
> >
> > Generous reward offered. Please spread the word.
> >
> > Thanks so much.
> >
> > Deborah Doyle (cell: 415-269-0540)
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]  Seeking info on dress
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> > >     Here's the link: http://www.barjaveldesign.com/dresses_1360.htm

This dress comes up periodically on the list. Here's one earlier
discussion, from November 2001, that might be helpful:

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/index.cgi?s=6-panel+cotehardie+question&l=hcos01

There are thirteen relevant posts in the thread; this search also turns up
a couple of digressive subthreads at the end. You can also see them in raw
form here, as part of a single LARGE file:

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/hcos01/hcos11.cl

... if you scroll down to the subject line "6-panel cotehardie question"
starting Nov. 27.

Most of us determined (independently) that it was likely a white dress
over a red dress, in large part based on the behavior of the hem. The
white fringy things down the front might be dags, or (as Teddy suggested)
there might be a narrow red strip with white patterning running down each
front edge of the white dress, which can not be distinguished in the image
from the red dress beneath. Remember this is a scanned photo of a rather
worn fresco!

Interestingly, the image cited in that discussion:

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/giovanni/milano/birth.html

is attributed to a different artist, but it does seem to be the same
painting. Maybe a different version of the artist's name?

Beth, maybe the Web Gallery of Art version will be a better scan for you
to work with.

--Robin
who knows nothing about Italian



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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: [GBACGCostumers] Stolen Costume
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Status: RO

Angela, thanks for the suggestion. i'm not on that list but if you
wouldn't mind sending it, I'd sure appreciate it. It's absolutely
worth a shot.

I know this dress and it's really beautiful! The people who made it
are real research mavens and handwork miracles. All our outfits are
costly and time consuming, but this one was for the queen, and nothing
was spared for the materials and the workmanship on this dress.

LynnD

On 11/20/06, H_Costume <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I've sent it to the costumer's alliance here in the bay area, which should
> reach all of the main scholastic and rental organizations.
>
> What about the CSA?  Is that worth a shot?
>
> angela
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes
> Theatrical Costume Design
> "Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
> be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
> and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
> be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
> All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
> W. Shakespeare
>
> http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
> To: "Rory Downward" <rmdownward@yahoo.com>; "Thena MacArthur"
> <Thena.MacArthur@reuters.com>; "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 12:43 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: [GBACGCostumers] Stolen Costume
>
>
> > I'm taking the liberty of forwarding this message to the world-wide
> > costuming community because our wonderful queen's beautiful dress has
> > been stolen from her basement in San Francisco, California. If you see
> > this costume in your area, please use the contact information or
> > contact the Greater Bay Area Costumers' Guild via their website so we
> > can get this work of art back where it belongs.
> >
> > LynnD
> >
> > ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> > From: Dorothy Truslow <d_truslow@yahoo.com>
> > Date: Nov 20, 2006 10:48 AM
> > Subject: [GBACGCostumers] Stolen Costume
> > To: GBACGCostumers@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Forwarded message follows. If you see the costume in your local thrift
> > shop, please contact Deborah ASAP. Here's hoping it's safely
> > recovered!
> >
> > - Dorothy
> >
> > > Help! My San Francisco garage was ransacked Saturday
> > > night, November 18. Thieves stole the beautiful Queen's dress I've
> > > worn at Folsom Faire, The Revels and at Valhalla; to be more
> > > precise, they took the bodice, sleeves and overskirt.
> > >
> > > Designed and made by Liz Martin, this unique purple
> > > (okay, aubergine) velvet confection—beaded and pearled to within an
> > > inch of its life by the fabulous women of St. Matthews Guild—weighs at
> > > least 30 pounds.
> > >
> > > Pictures here:
> > > http://www.folsomfaire.com/StMPhotos/PhotosF05Q1.htm
> > >
> > > The SFPD is looking for it. The officers who took
> > > the report say it's likely to turn up since it's so unusual; one of the
> > > officers is a Faire fan and even asked about Dickens.
> > >
> > > As you shop Bay Area costume and thrift shops for
> > > your pleasure this season, please keep an eye out for the dress. It's
> > > tough to miss.
> > >
> > > (Yes, we've had security issues before. I was taking
> > > the dress up to my Dad's for safekeeping at Thanksgiving. Sigh.)
> > >
> > > Generous reward offered. Please spread the word.
> > >
> > > Thanks so much.
> > >
> > > Deborah Doyle (cell: 415-269-0540)
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Fw: [SCA-Laurels] Seeking info on dress
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Status: RO

This is the one that I'm seeking a higher res image for, but there was 
enough to enlarge and determine that it is two layers (dress and coat) and 
not simply a red front panel. I'd be glad to provide the enlargements. The 
"gold thingies" are oak leafed dags. There is some ambiguity at the point 
of attachment to the white that I need a better quality image to resolve.

Very interesting image.

Beth

>Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 00:17:21 -0600
>From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
>
>The dress the questioner presents is also under debate by many as to whether
>it is a red dress with a white coat dagged at the hem and the gold thingies
>are ties to hold the jacket in place. Other think that it is a whole dress
>with a red front panel and red gores. and one other theory is that it is a
>white dress with a red front panel with dags at the hem showing the lining
>of the dress which is red. There is a fresco that shows a dancer with a
>dagged hem overdress so the latter is a possibility.

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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Fw: [SCA-Laurels] Seeking info on dress
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 19:40:38 -0700
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I don't know--the original poster just gave the link, sorry.
Closeups are always cool, but don't go to too much trouble, please! ;o)
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beth and Bob Matney" <bmatney@alltel.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 1:21 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Fw: [SCA-Laurels] Seeking info on dress


> Now that is an interesting image! I assume that we are talking about the
> one on the left standing in the doorway?
>
> I captured the image and enlarged it (with some additional image
> enhancements) to see the detail better.  The red was showing through the
> slashes at the elbows, but the bottom clearly shows that they are two
> separate garments (where the white dags flip up). I really love the
> oak-leafed dags down the front of both sides of the opening. I took the
> image as far as the resolution allows and would like to examine the
sleeves
> and neck better.
>
> I would like to do my own high resolution scan. What is the book that had
> this illustration?
>
> I would be happy to send the image close-ups if needed.
>
> Beth


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Seeking info on dress
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On 11/20/06, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>

> > I am looking for any information I can get on the dress in the top picture
> > on this link. Specifically has anyone ever seen any other dresses from
> this
> > period (approx. 1360) with this panel front style? I've found only one
> other
> > I believe it is Giottino, titled ³Pieta². Can anyone steer me to further
> > information on this style?
> >
> >     Here's the link: http://www.barjaveldesign.com/dresses_1360.htm

I know that h-costume as discussed this very dress before.  The
particular question then was how to cut, and whether to line the dags.
 Try searching the archives.
This painting is a detail of "Birth of Mary" or "Birth of the Virgin"
by Giovanni di Milani, San Croce, Firenza.  I'd try pawing thru volume
I of Steffi Roettgen's "Italian Frescoes - The Flowering of the
Rennaissance", if you have access to a copy. Ask for it for the
holidays along with it's companion volume that covers the late Italian
frescoes.  Lovely books!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Simone at barjaveldesign also sent me a nice high resolution detail (1.3 
MB) of this dress. It was given as a 15th century. I enlarged it to the 
limits.  I could not find any indicators that I could use to determine if 
it was a single layer or two.

Beth

>Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 00:17:21 -0600
>From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
>
>Yes, there is another picture where the donor is wearing a dark brown with a
>gold front panel, kneeling near a cross. Giottino "Pieta" or Pieta of San
>Remigio
>http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/g/p-giottin1.htm
>There is a possible 3rd dress. It is from a manuscript and I no longer have
>the url. The drawing is not great in that it looks as if it has a red front
>panel and the rest of the dress is striped in 4 colors or the red is one of
>the stripes and was drawn to fat.

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Yes, but it got my curiosity going!

Beth

>Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 19:40:38 -0700
>From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
>
>I don't know--the original poster just gave the link, sorry.
>Closeups are always cool, but don't go to too much trouble, please! ;o)
>--Sue

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Thanks Robin. That does help a bit. Following that, I found a slightly 
better image at Art Resource using Keywords: Giovanni da Milano
http://www.artres.com/c/htm/CSearchZ.aspx?o=&Total=13&FP=886443&E=22SIJMYRLCPDE&SID=JMGEJNTNS8EON&Pic=7&SubE=2UNTWAGLB65A
Interestingly, it was mirror imaged from that at Web Gallery of Art.

The resolution is still not as good as that originally posted, however.

Unfortunately, I do not have access to Storia del Costume in Italia by 
Rosita Levi Pizetzky.  (5 volume work on Italian costume) referenced in 
match 3.. and it's slightly beyond my budget to buy! ILL again...

Beth

>Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 17:53:51 -0600 (CST)
>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>
>http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/giovanni/milano/birth.html
>
>is attributed to a different artist, but it does seem to be the same
>painting. Maybe a different version of the artist's name?
>
>Beth, maybe the Web Gallery of Art version will be a better scan for you
>to work with.

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[message snipped]

Would it be okay to forward this message to the various Faire and SCA 
lists?  I'm on the SCA-Caid and Company of Clothiers lists, as well 
as the Guild of St. Ives (Southern) list.

Mary Llewellyn
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Status: RO

I though that these might be of interest:

<http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/calendar/tint.pdf>Textile in Context: New Research in 
Ancient Danish in European Textiles. International Conference January 
18-19th 2007. <http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/calendar/tintprogram.pdf>Programme.

A conference that was held last August (2006):
         Medieval broadcloth – Production, trade, consumption and use
         http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/conferences/medievaltex/

<http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/headwear.doc>Headwear in the Middle Ages
<http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/invitation_til_seminar.doc>Invitation to join seminar 
on Frilled <http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/invitation_til_seminar.doc>Edges

May 13th-17th 2008: NESAT X conference will be held at the Centre for 
Textile Research in Copenhagen.

Other notes: NESAT 9 is in preparation. No date of publication as yet. I'll 
keep you posted.

Beth  


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 Thanks for the tip, Katy!



Does anyone have this "Dress in Detail from Around the World" book?

?http://tinyurl.com/yek99j 



Does it cover modern dress, or historical, or what?



Tea Rose





Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 14:57:57 -0500
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
Subject: [h-cost] kyoto fashion book
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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    <3586f5070611201157u2c8dc361rd53f9ab053ea58ce@mail.gmail.com>
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Barnes and Noble has the Kyoto Fashion book (ISBN: 0760782024, Pub.
Date: August 2006), the original one volume version, on sale for
$19.98 (even less if you're a B&N member).

http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?z=y&EAN=9780760782026&itm=36

Katy


   
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Hi,
Thanks for this, i had no idea there were such possibilities to go to 
seminars about textiles in Copenhagen.
Ill keep myself updated when something of my interrests comes.
A shame i dont have interrests in medieval textiles or older.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Beth and Bob Matney" <bmatney@alltel.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 5:28 PM
Subject: [h-cost] conferences


>I though that these might be of interest:
>
> <http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/calendar/tint.pdf>Textile in Context: New Research 
> in Ancient Danish in European Textiles. International Conference January 
> 18-19th 2007. <http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/calendar/tintprogram.pdf>Programme.
>
> A conference that was held last August (2006):
>         Medieval broadcloth - Production, trade, consumption and use
>         http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/conferences/medievaltex/
>
> <http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/headwear.doc>Headwear in the Middle Ages
> <http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/invitation_til_seminar.doc>Invitation to join 
> seminar on Frilled <http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/invitation_til_seminar.doc>Edges
>
> May 13th-17th 2008: NESAT X conference will be held at the Centre for 
> Textile Research in Copenhagen.
>
> Other notes: NESAT 9 is in preparation. No date of publication as yet. 
> I'll keep you posted.
>
> Beth
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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> Does anyone have this "Dress in Detail from Around the World" book?
> 
> ?http://tinyurl.com/yek99j 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it cover modern dress, or historical, or what?
> 


I found a review which says "in date they range from roughly the 19th 
century to the present day and include everything from those made from 
hand woven cloth to the uniforms worn by the seamen on the Hong Kong ferry."

http://artantiques.allinfo-about.com/weekly/books/dress.html



Dawn


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 20:27:06 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] dissapointed with a book
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Status: RO

I had ordered Phillip Mansels book Dressed to Rule
Royal and Court Costume from Louis XIV to Elizabeth II.
I had great expectations of it, but i got very dissapointed. Very few 
pictures, and poor pictures also.
Hope reading it wil be better.
Another book wich i was very surprised about how good it was, is The Culture 
of Clothing, Dress and Fashion In The Ancien Regime. This book have also 
very few and poor pictures, but the research of how much rich and poor 
people spended on clothing, how much they washed and so on is very 
impressive and interresting reading.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 16:57:34 -0500
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: kyoto fashion book
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Status: RO

I remember leafing through the book ages ago, it is ethnographic
clothing if I recall correctly, organised like the books "Nineteenth
Century Fashion in Detail" and "Historical Fashion in Detail."
Beautiful pictures.

Katy

On 11/21/06, tearoses@aol.com <tearoses@aol.com> wrote:
>  Thanks for the tip, Katy!
>
>
>
> Does anyone have this "Dress in Detail from Around the World" book?
>
> ?http://tinyurl.com/yek99j
>
>
>
> Does it cover modern dress, or historical, or what?
>
>
>
> Tea Rose
>
>
>
>
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 14:57:57 -0500
> From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] kyoto fashion book
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>    <3586f5070611201157u2c8dc361rd53f9ab053ea58ce@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Barnes and Noble has the Kyoto Fashion book (ISBN: 0760782024, Pub.
> Date: August 2006), the original one volume version, on sale for
> $19.98 (even less if you're a B&N member).
>
> http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?z=y&EAN=9780760782026&itm=36
>
> Katy
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Check out the new AOL.  Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
> _______________________________________________
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dissapointed with a book
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Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>:

*snip*

> Another book wich i was very surprised about how good it was, is The
> Culture of Clothing, Dress and Fashion In The Ancien Regime. This book
> have also very few and poor pictures, but the research of how much rich
> and poor people spended on clothing, how much they washed and so on is
> very impressive and interresting reading.
>

Bjarne, who's the author of this second book?  Do you have an ISBN for it?

Thanks,
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress in Detail (was Re: kyoto fashion book)
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On Tuesday 21 November 2006 2:09 pm, Dawn wrote:
> > Does anyone have this "Dress in Detail from Around the World" book?
> >
> > ?http://tinyurl.com/yek99j
> >
> >
> >
> > Does it cover modern dress, or historical, or what?
>
> I found a review which says "in date they range from roughly the 19th
> century to the present day and include everything from those made from
> hand woven cloth to the uniforms worn by the seamen on the Hong Kong
> ferry."

That's pretty accurate.  I don't own it but I've looked through it in a 
bookstore, and it's ethnic costume, not "historical" per so.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Garments of Margaretha Franciska Lobkowicz née Dietrichstein (1597­1617)
April 13th—December 31st, 2006 Main building of UPM -
Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague
http://www.upm.cz/index.php?language=en&page=123&year=2006&id=56&img=512

I  have written to inquire about a catalog to the exhibit.

Beth Matney  


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Bjarne,
 
I have to agree about Philip Mansell's book, but for different reasons. I got it out of our School of Textile library (thankfully) and could check it out before buying it - which I won't do. I am very disappointed with the text (the writing style itself), the structure, and the research. I haven't got it with me right now, but I recall a couple of incidences where he said something about certain 18th century customs that intrigued me. Went to the end notes (which are, incidentally, annoyingly organised) and read "personal conversation with XYZ". Oh, really? So, it is enough to claim that XYZ said so? I was incensed.
 
Very disappointing.
 
Best wishes
 
Nicole

----- Original Message ----
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Tuesday, 21 November, 2006 7:27:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] dissapointed with a book


I had ordered Phillip Mansels book Dressed to Rule
Royal and Court Costume from Louis XIV to Elizabeth II.
I had great expectations of it, but i got very dissapointed. Very few 
pictures, and poor pictures also.
Hope reading it wil be better.
Another book wich i was very surprised about how good it was, is The Culture 
of Clothing, Dress and Fashion In The Ancien Regime. This book have also 
very few and poor pictures, but the research of how much rich and poor 
people spended on clothing, how much they washed and so on is very 
impressive and interresting reading.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Hi Susan,
Its a translation to english from a french researcher, who made fantastic 
work about clothing and culture, the different ranks and poor people two.
Daniel Roche: The Culture Of Clothing - Dress And Fashion In The Ancien 
Regime . Paperback Past & Present Publications.
Study of dress in France in seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
Taken as a whole, this book is easily the most thorough and wide ranging 
study of clothing and its social meaning that has been written to 
date................
I got it from Amazon Uk.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 12:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dissapointed with a book


> Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>:
>
> *snip*
>
>> Another book wich i was very surprised about how good it was, is The
>> Culture of Clothing, Dress and Fashion In The Ancien Regime. This book
>> have also very few and poor pictures, but the research of how much rich
>> and poor people spended on clothing, how much they washed and so on is
>> very impressive and interresting reading.
>>
>
> Bjarne, who's the author of this second book?  Do you have an ISBN for it?
>
> Thanks,
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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again, the more people in our costuming community know about this, the
better the chances are that we get the dress back to Deborah.

LynnD

On 11/20/06, Mary Llewellyn <maryllewellyn@earthlink.net> wrote:
> [message snipped]
>
> Would it be okay to forward this message to the various Faire and SCA
> lists?  I'm on the SCA-Caid and Company of Clothiers lists, as well
> as the Guild of St. Ives (Southern) list.
>
> Mary Llewellyn
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Catching up on old email

> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
>

*snip*

> I have seen at least two "Italian" dresses that look as if they have
> different colored gores from the rest of the dress but not in the style that
> is on the Chimera site.

Can you point me in the direction of those Italian Gowns?

Thanks,
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] conferences
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Bjarne,

My interests pretty much begin with late Roman and stop with 1600 or 
slightly later, so that's what I look for. I see a lot of things for later 
(18th century is your time?) . I'll try to remember to pass them on also. I 
think that I just assumed that you were already more aware of them than I.

Beth

At 01:07 PM 11/22/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 20:32:53 +0100
>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>
>Hi,
>Thanks for this, i had no idea there were such possibilities to go to
>seminars about textiles in Copenhagen.
>Ill keep myself updated when something of my interrests comes.
>A shame i dont have interrests in medieval textiles or older.
>
>Bjarne

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Does someone have access to:

Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover)
by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack 
(Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator) Institute of Public Administration 
(Oct 1997) ISBN: 1872002986

It is out of print and unavailable for Interlibrary loan. I understand that 
a boat shuttle (weaving) was found. Could someone scan or photocopy the 
image and text about the shuttle for me, please?

Thanks.
Beth 

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Hi,
No i must admit i had no idea about it, and am rather shocked that my 
Textile History Society dont make any tips about them in their magazines. 
They send out 4 times a year.
When i worked at the Museum of Decorative Arts our boss usually gave us 
tips, including invitations to other events two. I remember Janet Arnold had 
a lecture once..........

Bjarne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beth and Bob Matney" <bmatney@alltel.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] conferences


> Bjarne,
>
> My interests pretty much begin with late Roman and stop with 1600 or 
> slightly later, so that's what I look for. I see a lot of things for later 
> (18th century is your time?) . I'll try to remember to pass them on also. 
> I think that I just assumed that you were already more aware of them than 
> I.
>
> Beth
>
> At 01:07 PM 11/22/2006, you wrote:
>>Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 20:32:53 +0100
>>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>
>>Hi,
>>Thanks for this, i had no idea there were such possibilities to go to
>>seminars about textiles in Copenhagen.
>>Ill keep myself updated when something of my interrests comes.
>>A shame i dont have interrests in medieval textiles or older.
>>
>>Bjarne
>
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] shuttle
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 14:01:24 -0800
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> Does someone have access to:
>
> Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover)
> by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack
> (Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator) Institute of Public
> Administration
> (Oct 1997) ISBN: 1872002986
>
> It is out of print and unavailable for Interlibrary loan. I
> understand that
> a boat shuttle (weaving) was found. Could someone scan or photocopy the
> image and text about the shuttle for me, please?
>
> Thanks.
> Beth

Sorry, I don't have the book, but my library is pretty good about getting
some fantastic stuff through ILL that other libraries can't/won't.  If you
would like me to try let me know (unless you are a ILL librarian yourself,
which is certainly possible on this list!)

This book is about to be printed (re-printed?) for Amazon.co.uk for a mere
$134 (unless the Euro/Pound/Dollar do more nasty things :

Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover)
by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack
(Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator)


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Our Price: ?62.10 + ?1.99 sourcing fee  (That's the $134) (Gleek!!!)


Availability: Usually dispatched within 4 to 6 weeks. Please note that
titles occasionally go out of print or publishers run out of stock. Learn
more
Note: due to the availability of this product, orders placed now for this
item will not be dispatched in time for Christmas. See last-order dates.
However, it may still be possible to buy it new and used from our
third-party sellers. Dispatched from and sold by Amazon.co.uk.

The book is currently owned by these libraries (don't know if they would
loan it, but they DO have it:
FLORIDA INT UNIV FXG

IL UNIV OF CHICAGO CGU

KY UNIV OF LOUISVILLE KLG

NC UNIV OF N CAROLINA, CHAPEL HILL NOC

PA PENNSYLVANIA STATE UNIV UPM
PA UNIV OF PENNSYLVANIA PAU

TX TEXAS A&M UNIV TXA

EU BRITISH LIBR BRI
EU BRITISH LIBR UKM
EU CAMBRIDGE UNIV CUD
EU CARDIFF UNIV RDF
EU GLASGOW UNIV LIBR QCL
EU NATIONAL & UNIV LIBR OF ICELAND, THE UIY
EU NATIONAL UNIV OF IRELAND MAYNOOTH EIS
EU UNIV OF OXFORD EQO
EU UNIV OF WALES, BANGOR EQF

Record for Item: "Late Viking age and medie...  I used the key word search
Watterford and Scully under author.

The idiots who published it initially only printed 500 copies (they are
idiots when WE want the book.  Otherwise they are good business people).
Best thing the Authors could have done would have been to put it up on the
web and ask for donations.  At least the Authors and illustrators would have
made something for their work. You can be sure that they practically had to
pay the publisher to deign to put out their material otherwise.

Regina
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] kyoto costume book at B&N
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I just got the copies of "Fashion" by the Kyoto Costume Museum, from
Barnes & Noble.com, and I was surprised to find that they are really
hardcover, not the
not-quite-soft-cover (not sure what the binding was called) that I got
when the book first came out.

Katy

-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Subject: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
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Status: RO

There's a nice on-line display of Holbein's English work at 
http://www.tate.org.uk/britain/exhibitions/holbein/default.shtm  .  Most of the pictures of women are already well-known but some of the men (and their clothes) were new to me.  There are also a number of studies of jewelry.

Janet
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thank you Janet for sharing this. 
   
  I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright restriction is not on the website?
   
  And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has another book that is thicker
  Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
  Does anyone know of any details on this book?
   
  Thank you,
   
  Kimiko
  

JAMES OGILVIE <bear_janet@msn.com> wrote:
    There's a nice on-line display of Holbein's English work at 
http://www.tate.org.uk/britain/exhibitions/holbein/default.shtm . Most of the pictures of women are already well-known but some of the men (and their clothes) were new to me. There are also a number of studies of jewelry.

Janet


 
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At 05:26 23/11/2006, you wrote:
>Thank you Janet for sharing this.
>
>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in England. 
> Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting for those 
> rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright restriction is 
> not on the website?
>
>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has 
> another book that is thicker
>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?
>
>   Thank you,
>
>   Kimiko
>
>
>JAMES OGILVIE <bear_janet@msn.com> wrote:
>     There's a nice on-line display of Holbein's English work at
>http://www.tate.org.uk/britain/exhibitions/holbein/default.shtm . 
>Most of the pictures of women are already well-known but some of the 
>men (and their clothes) were new to me. There are also a number of 
>studies of jewelry.


The Holbein catalogue is well worth buying. The reproductions are 
excellent. I haven't read the text as I was too busy enjoying the 
pictures. I went to the exhibition with some costume minded friends a 
couple of weeks ago, and without dawdling, it took us 2 1/2 hours to 
go round. We followed it with a visit to the current Velasquez 
exhibition, also well worth the visit. I did not buy the full size 
catalogue for that, so cannot comment.

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Late Viking Age book [was: shuttle}
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Hi,
I'm confused -- I looked at the amazon.co.uk listing and it reads  
more like they're going to get a copy out of some distant musty  
warehouse than like there's a reprint coming -- at least, on Amazon  
in the US, that's how that language about 4 to 6 weeks and a sourcing  
fee translates.  Does anybody have any further info about a reprint?  
This looks like it could be a tasty book.
Thanks,
Lauren

On Nov 22, 2006, at 5:01 PM, Wanda Pease wrote:

> This book is about to be printed (re-printed?) for Amazon.co.uk for  
> a mere
> $134 (unless the Euro/Pound/Dollar do more nasty things :
>
> Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992  
> (Hardcover)
> by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S.  
> Durack
> (Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator)
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> ------
> ----
> Our Price: ?62.10 + ?1.99 sourcing fee  (That's the $134) (Gleek!!!)

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shuttle
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2006 13:50:13 -0500
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So I was poking around the Web looking for the book, and discovered  
the Ask About Ireland Virtual Museum, which has a few pieces from the  
Waterford Museum of Treasures:
http://www.askaboutireland.ie/show_narrative_page.do?page_id=2802

Amongst the treasures is a 12th century comb beater, and the page  
refers to a sword beater and pin beaters also found at the site.  
http://www.askaboutireland.ie/show_narrative_page.do?page_id=2910

Those are tools for warp-weighted loom weaving, and you don't use a  
boat shuttle with a warp-weighted loom. (I don't know your project --  
that may be exactly why you want to see the boat shuttle.) Since the  
warp-weighted loom continued to be used in Scandinavian countries up  
until the present day, that doesn't mean WWLs didn't exist alongside  
horizontal harness looms, of course, and the transitional period for  
those looms in England (I am guessing Ireland is similar in this  
adoption) is between the 10th and 13th centuries. Let me know if you  
find the boat shuttle, and when it's dated.

Thanks,
Lauren

On Nov 22, 2006, at 3:03 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> Does someone have access to:
>
> Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992  
> (Hardcover)
> by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S.  
> Durack (Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator) Institute of Public  
> Administration (Oct 1997) ISBN: 1872002986
>
> It is out of print and unavailable for Interlibrary loan. I  
> understand that a boat shuttle (weaving) was found. Could someone  
> scan or photocopy the image and text about the shuttle for me, please?
>
> Thanks.
> Beth
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2006 14:24:54 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] shuttle
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I would much prefer to add the book to my collection of archeology reports. 
I ordered the book from Amazon-UK last year... and after many delays, they 
finally cancelled my order saying that the book was unavailable. Up until 
last month, there was a copy at a bookseller in Ireland.. I just could not 
make myself pay $600 for it! I'd quite willingly pay $134 for the book.

I'm not an ILL librarian (live in rural Arkansas), but the librarian in my 
county is good about ordering things for me. She said that all copies 
listed did not circulate, so she couldn't get it... even paying an 
additional fee (which I frequently do).

Beth

At 01:04 PM 11/23/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 14:01:24 -0800
>From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
>
> > Does someone have access to:
> >
> > Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover)
> > by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack
> > (Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator) Institute of Public
> > Administration
> > (Oct 1997) ISBN: 1872002986
> >
> > It is out of print and unavailable for Interlibrary loan. I
> > understand that
> > a boat shuttle (weaving) was found. Could someone scan or photocopy the
> > image and text about the shuttle for me, please?
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Beth
>
>Sorry, I don't have the book, but my library is pretty good about getting
>some fantastic stuff through ILL that other libraries can't/won't.  If you
>would like me to try let me know (unless you are a ILL librarian yourself,
>which is certainly possible on this list!)
>
>This book is about to be printed (re-printed?) for Amazon.co.uk for a mere
>$134 (unless the Euro/Pound/Dollar do more nasty things :
>
>Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford: Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover)
>by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack
>(Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shuttle
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Yes, I'm trying to pin down the horizontal loom with more than just the 
manuscript illumination that is commonly shown, using the boat shuttle as 
an indicator.

So far I've found one (modern pattern) in Novgorod archeology in the 14th 
C. and one was found in France at Lake Paladru 
http://www.culture.gouv.fr/culture/arcnat/charavines/en/fouille.htm I 
finally got the report in from France and discovered that while this may be 
a boat shuttle (1008-1040 AD) , it is not in the modern pattern and a bit 
small. I was informed that one was in the Waterford report dating to the 
12th/13th C. and want to see it and confirm.

England is an interesting place for weaving, with the twin beam loom 
(Winchester) concurrent with the warp weighted loom.

Beth

>Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2006 13:50:13 -0500
>From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> format=flowed
>
>So I was poking around the Web looking for the book, and discovered
>the Ask About Ireland Virtual Museum, which has a few pieces from the
>Waterford Museum of Treasures:
>http://www.askaboutireland.ie/show_narrative_page.do?page_id=2802
>
>Amongst the treasures is a 12th century comb beater, and the page
>refers to a sword beater and pin beaters also found at the site.
>http://www.askaboutireland.ie/show_narrative_page.do?page_id=2910
>
>Those are tools for warp-weighted loom weaving, and you don't use a
>boat shuttle with a warp-weighted loom. (I don't know your project --
>that may be exactly why you want to see the boat shuttle.) Since the
>warp-weighted loom continued to be used in Scandinavian countries up
>until the present day, that doesn't mean WWLs didn't exist alongside
>horizontal harness looms, of course, and the transitional period for
>those looms in England (I am guessing Ireland is similar in this
>adoption) is between the 10th and 13th centuries. Let me know if you
>find the boat shuttle, and when it's dated.
>
>Thanks,
>Lauren

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 22:52:55 -0600
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Status: RO

One of them was already brought forth and shot down which was the Donor in
the birth of Mary fresco. the red and white outfit Though I still think the
gold thingies are more of a tassel then a dag.
The other one I think I did not save the url because I think it was a Salome
character and I was not interested in the period at the time. It may have
been dags and not gores. So my apologies for not being able to produce the
picture to help in this matter. I usually save things for myself as I know
that I can not teach worth anything and my organizational skills only make
sense to me.
De

-----Original Message-----
Catching up on old email

> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
>

*snip*

> I have seen at least two "Italian" dresses that look as if they have
> different colored gores from the rest of the dress but not in the style
that
> is on the Chimera site.

Can you point me in the direction of those Italian Gowns?

Thanks,
Susan


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From: Lena <lenastrid@yahoo.com>
Subject: Waterford excavation book (WAS: [h-cost] shuttle)
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Status: RO

The Waterford book is _very_ rare. IIRC only 500 books
were printed. $600 wouldn't be an unusual price. 

I don't know how many copies made it over the
Atlantic, so perhaps your best bet is to contact
someone at a museum or university (archaeology
department) in Ireland and ask them for a photocopy of
that page.

/Lena

--- Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net> wrote:

> I would much prefer to add the book to my collection
> of archeology reports. 
> I ordered the book from Amazon-UK last year... and
> after many delays, they 
> finally cancelled my order saying that the book was
> unavailable. Up until 
> last month, there was a copy at a bookseller in
> Ireland.. I just could not 
> make myself pay $600 for it! I'd quite willingly pay
> $134 for the book.
> 
> I'm not an ILL librarian (live in rural Arkansas),
> but the librarian in my 
> county is good about ordering things for me. She
> said that all copies 
> listed did not circulate, so she couldn't get it...
> even paying an 
> additional fee (which I frequently do).
> 
> Beth
> 
> At 01:04 PM 11/23/2006, you wrote:
> >Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 14:01:24 -0800
> >From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
> >
> > > Does someone have access to:
> > >
> > > Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford:
> Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover)
> > > by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah
> W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack
> > > (Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator)
> Institute of Public
> > > Administration
> > > (Oct 1997) ISBN: 1872002986
> > >
> > > It is out of print and unavailable for
> Interlibrary loan. I
> > > understand that
> > > a boat shuttle (weaving) was found. Could
> someone scan or photocopy the
> > > image and text about the shuttle for me, please?
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > > Beth


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2006 10:54:07 -0800
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Status: RO

Small Brag.  There is a fairly large book with the exhibit, and some
paintings I understood they refused to loan outside of Europe.  I have that
book because a friend drove from Frankfurt am Main to Brussels to get it for
me!

Ah, the days of "Occupied Germany" and 2 DF equaling $1.00! (Ah, the days
that is, because it certainly didn't cost that when he bought it.  But APO
mailing rates certainly helped.

Go see it if you possibly can because there are many many Holbein's, and
Cranach's (surprise, surprise) in what used to be the Iron Curtain
countries!

Wanda
>
> Thank you Janet for sharing this.
>
>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in
> England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting
> for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright
> restriction is not on the website?
>
>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has
> another book that is thicker
>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?
>
>   Thank you,
>
>   Kimiko
>
>
> JAMES OGILVIE <bear_janet@msn.com> wrote:
>     There's a nice on-line display of Holbein's English work at
> http://www.tate.org.uk/britain/exhibitions/holbein/default.shtm .
> Most of the pictures of women are already well-known but some of
> the men (and their clothes) were new to me. There are also a
> number of studies of jewelry.
>
> Janet
>

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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Status: RO

Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> One of them was already brought forth and shot down which was the Donor in
> the birth of Mary fresco. the red and white outfit Though I still think the
> gold thingies are more of a tassel then a dag.
> The other one I think I did not save the url because I think it was a Salome
> character and I was not interested in the period at the time. It may have
> been dags and not gores. So my apologies for not being able to produce the
> picture to help in this matter. I usually save things for myself as I know
> that I can not teach worth anything and my organizational skills only make
> sense to me.
> De

That's ok.  I've seen a couple too -- but not the birth of Mary fresco  
that's been under discussion.  One of this *is* a piece of a mural  
(and I doubt if I could find it now if I tried!) but I can't tell if  
the woman's dress has contrasting gores up the side, or if it's a  
giorna (? -- you know the overdress like you see in Ghirlandaio's  
paintings) that's belted around the body.  The ladies are in the  
background and IIRC they're seated.

Thanks!
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???
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I have seen in paintings where on one side of the gown the seam is not sewn
together to expose the underskirt, sometime it appears that a purse is worn
under the top skirt and the opening allows access. Mostly on "German" 1400s
styles I have seen the side opening. I think that the gores of a different
colour are feasible as many people of that era seemed to be frugal. Now
maybe they would more likely to have done the "use every scrap" with the
kid's outfits. Example of patchwork sleeves
http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Licinio1524.JPG
But just observing the different styles found in Bergamo, the possibility of
the different colour gores seems likely even for older women.
Unfortunately there wasn't enough artist to paint every single dress of all
the eras. :P
De

-----Original Message-----
Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> One of them was already brought forth and shot down which was the Donor in
> the birth of Mary fresco. the red and white outfit Though I still think
the
> gold thingies are more of a tassel then a dag.
> The other one I think I did not save the url because I think it was a
Salome
> character and I was not interested in the period at the time. It may have
> been dags and not gores. So my apologies for not being able to produce the
> picture to help in this matter. I usually save things for myself as I know
> that I can not teach worth anything and my organizational skills only make
> sense to me.
> De

That's ok.  I've seen a couple too -- but not the birth of Mary fresco
that's been under discussion.  One of this *is* a piece of a mural
(and I doubt if I could find it now if I tried!) but I can't tell if
the woman's dress has contrasting gores up the side, or if it's a
giorna (? -- you know the overdress like you see in Ghirlandaio's
paintings) that's belted around the body.  The ladies are in the
background and IIRC they're seated.

Thanks!
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] kyoto stays again
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Hi,
I would like to have your oppinions about the fitting of the stays on my 
lady.
My lady wich also sew for herself, says they fit perfect, but i  am not 
sattisfied.
When you look at the profile picture, you clearly see that the stays are two 
big at the tip of the breast.. I would remake it, by reducing the front 
piece at the curved sides at the armhole, this would push in the front a 
little more.
Am i wrong?
Please take a look its here:
http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm

Many thanks for your response

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000501c71077$6f2b74a0$cd43a150@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 08:11:33 -0400
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Good Morning Bjarne!

First off, yup, I agree with you, they are a bit too big around the bust.  I 
think you could take them in along the side front curve and that would work 
nicely.  It may also push her breasts together a bit, giving her more 
cleavage.

I have a question though...Is she wearing them with a bra in that photo?  If 
she is, it will throw off your fitting entirely.  She should have a chemise 
to wear underneath, that's all, then the stays can do their own work.  This 
may also be why she believes they fit her.

Have a great day!
Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 5:52 AM
Subject: [h-cost] kyoto stays again


> Hi,
> I would like to have your oppinions about the fitting of the stays on my 
> lady.
> My lady wich also sew for herself, says they fit perfect, but i  am not 
> sattisfied.
> When you look at the profile picture, you clearly see that the stays are 
> two big at the tip of the breast.. I would remake it, by reducing the 
> front piece at the curved sides at the armhole, this would push in the 
> front a little more.
> Am i wrong?
> Please take a look its here:
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm
>
> Many thanks for your response
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

_______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again
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Hi,
I think she kept her bra on, because she knew that i would post the pictures 
on my webpage, for modesty. She is going to wear a chemise with the dress.
Thanks for your thoaghts.........
Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again


> Good Morning Bjarne!
>
> First off, yup, I agree with you, they are a bit too big around the bust. 
> I think you could take them in along the side front curve and that would 
> work nicely.  It may also push her breasts together a bit, giving her more 
> cleavage.
>
> I have a question though...Is she wearing them with a bra in that photo? 
> If she is, it will throw off your fitting entirely.  She should have a 
> chemise to wear underneath, that's all, then the stays can do their own 
> work.  This may also be why she believes they fit her.
>
> Have a great day!
> Kelly
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 5:52 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] kyoto stays again
>
>
>> Hi,
>> I would like to have your oppinions about the fitting of the stays on my 
>> lady.
>> My lady wich also sew for herself, says they fit perfect, but i  am not 
>> sattisfied.
>> When you look at the profile picture, you clearly see that the stays are 
>> two big at the tip of the breast.. I would remake it, by reducing the 
>> front piece at the curved sides at the armhole, this would push in the 
>> front a little more.
>> Am i wrong?
>> Please take a look its here:
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm
>>
>> Many thanks for your response
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 09:16:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Hi,
> I would like to have your oppinions about the fitting of the stays on my
> lady.
> My lady wich also sew for herself, says they fit perfect, but i  am not
> sattisfied.
> When you look at the profile picture, you clearly see that the stays are
> two
> big at the tip of the breast.. I would remake it, by reducing the front
> piece at the curved sides at the armhole, this would push in the front a
> little more.
> Am i wrong?
> Please take a look its here:
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/anglaise.htm

Bjarne,

I agree with you that the top of the corset seems too big.  However, some
ladies have different ideas on how tight they want their corset to fit. 
Perhaps she doesn't want it to be too tight?

It is always hard to balance what people want and what is accurate when we
sew for others.

Maybe tell her what you think and ask her why she doesn't feel that it is
too big in front?

Good luck! The project so far looks lovely.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 14:37:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> I think she kept her bra on, because she knew that i would post the
> pictures on my webpage, for modesty. She is going to wear a chemise
> with the dress.

     I wasn't sure if it was a bra or a camisole.  She should definitely
try them with a camisole or t-shirt and no bra.  Then we could see
what the stays actually do for her.

     What I see is the front edge poking out past her bustline, and that
needs to be brought in.  You want it to come straight back,
compressing her breasts into "pleasing mounds".  You do not want them
pressed in from the sides.  Paintings were done without a cleavage
line (where the breasts actually touch), so I think it is
unfashionable and undesired.

     Did you make them as boned panels, whipstiched at the seams?  I saw a
set of extant stays that had been altered by undoing the seams
partway and overlapping the panels!  It's not the neatest alteration,
but was done.  Otherwise you can take out a bone or two for a neater
fix.

     When I would measure for stays, I would take a compressed bust
measurement in order to mimic what the stays do.

     Very nice workmanship, and a pretty color!

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 20:55:40 +0100
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Hi
I made them in sections, so it is easy to take up the front part.
I have to take up all the binding at the top though, because i made that in 
one piece.
I want to take in a cm each side at the side because then it gets pressed in 
the right direction, but i will also take 2 cm away center front. That is to 
change the direction of the fold i have in the front, its only one piece in 
the front.
And when i am at it, i want to change the shoulder straps two, they are a 
little two far back on the shoulders i think.
Thanks for your notes!

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again


>> I think she kept her bra on, because she knew that i would post the
>> pictures on my webpage, for modesty. She is going to wear a chemise
>> with the dress.
>
>     I wasn't sure if it was a bra or a camisole.  She should definitely
> try them with a camisole or t-shirt and no bra.  Then we could see
> what the stays actually do for her.
>
>     What I see is the front edge poking out past her bustline, and that
> needs to be brought in.  You want it to come straight back,
> compressing her breasts into "pleasing mounds".  You do not want them
> pressed in from the sides.  Paintings were done without a cleavage
> line (where the breasts actually touch), so I think it is
> unfashionable and undesired.
>
>     Did you make them as boned panels, whipstiched at the seams?  I saw a
> set of extant stays that had been altered by undoing the seams
> partway and overlapping the panels!  It's not the neatest alteration,
> but was done.  Otherwise you can take out a bone or two for a neater
> fix.
>
>     When I would measure for stays, I would take a compressed bust
> measurement in order to mimic what the stays do.
>
>     Very nice workmanship, and a pretty color!
>
>     -Carol
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Nov 25 20:03:22 2006
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Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 17:00:26 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Art Deco Museum in Tokyo
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Occasionally people on this list ask about sights to see in Tokyo.
Here's another in my on-going series of recommendations.
Tokyo Metropolitian Teien Art Museum is a lovely Art Deco, vintage
1933 "house" built for one of the Meiji princes.  The house, now a
museum, runs a rotating collection of Nouveau & Deco exhibits. Right
now there's a Deco jewelry exhibit.

Oh, and there's a typo on the website navigation instructions, the JR
station is actually Meguro on the Yamanote line.  It's easy to find,
it's one of the largest green spaces in downtown Tokyo.

My dear fiancee is, hopefully, fetching the catalog for me this week.
Will let you know...
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Raz Dan <Raz.Dan@sandisk.com>

I saw an advertisement on the Yamanote line for the museum:
http://www.teien-art-museum.ne.jp/exhibition/e_index.html
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: kyoto stays again
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Bjarne:

I agree that the stays look too high in the photo you posted. Could it be a
poor photo? If the lady says they fit, perhaps they really do. But that is a
beautiful thing you made!!!!! And your sketches of the gown are charming. I
didn't know you did such lovely sketches, you should sell those!!

Gail Finke

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
I went to se the Marie Antoinette movie last week, and my eyes fell on a 
gentlemans suit. It was copyed from Revolution in Fashion from Kyoto.
After the movie all i could think about was i want to embroider that suit 
two, i tryed to photograph from the book and make a pattern repeat of the 
embroidery, and i can, but its impossible to se how big the embroidery is.
Do you think the museum would let me buy a photo of the embroidery and also 
meassures of the embroidery, (how wide it is)?
Next i think about, maybe the museum dont have any pictures at all, maybe it 
was the makers of the books who owns the pictures?
I was very surprised recently when i asked a museum in Gotland, Sweden about 
a pair of stays in their collection, i noticed it in a new swedish book. 
When i contakted the museum, they didnt have any pictures of it.
Japan is way out of my budget to travel to just for that.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <C18E6BE9.23F9E%gailscott@eos.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: kyoto stays again
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Hi Gail,
Many thanks for your words, nice to get feed back!
The lady i make it for sended me the photos, and she says it fits perfect, 
even that i told her i wanted to change it she said no. I have emailed her 
what i think is wrong with a drawing, but now i awaites her answer, she 
didnt answer me, seems like a buisy person, never at home.
Maybe i should waite a little before i change, i still have a lot of 
embroidery to make, just finishing the left side of the skirt, but have to 
make the right side.
Now i am having a meeting this afternoon with the young danish lady i am 
going to make the danish court dress for, why is it that orders comes in 
crowds?

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 2:53 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: kyoto stays again


>
> Bjarne:
>
> I agree that the stays look too high in the photo you posted. Could it be 
> a
> poor photo? If the lady says they fit, perhaps they really do. But that is 
> a
> beautiful thing you made!!!!! And your sketches of the gown are charming. 
> I
> didn't know you did such lovely sketches, you should sell those!!
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] a question about museums
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Hi,

This is the website from the Kyoto Costume institute.
http://www.kci.or.jp/menu-e.html
They have a huge digital collection.

Greetings,
    Deredere

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> I went to se the Marie Antoinette movie last week, and my eyes fell on 
> a gentlemans suit. It was copyed from Revolution in Fashion from Kyoto.
> After the movie all i could think about was i want to embroider that 
> suit two, i tryed to photograph from the book and make a pattern 
> repeat of the embroidery, and i can, but its impossible to se how big 
> the embroidery is.
> Do you think the museum would let me buy a photo of the embroidery and 
> also meassures of the embroidery, (how wide it is)?
> Next i think about, maybe the museum dont have any pictures at all, 
> maybe it was the makers of the books who owns the pictures?
> I was very surprised recently when i asked a museum in Gotland, Sweden 
> about a pair of stays in their collection, i noticed it in a new 
> swedish book. When i contakted the museum, they didnt have any 
> pictures of it.
> Japan is way out of my budget to travel to just for that.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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Hello to the list!

I have some questions concerning the Lady's costume in the 'A mon seul désir" tapestry. 

I've found a beautiful fabric which would match the underdress perfectly. The material, being acetate is not really suitable - but the pattern and appearance, in my humble opinion, is. See for yourself: 
This is my fabric: 

http://www.costumekittens.de/uploads/forums/pb250005.jpg
http://www.costumekittens.de/uploads/forums/pb250006.jpg
and compare this to the patterns of the fabrics in the tapestries: 
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/hearingladygoldbrocadejpg and http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/smellladygoldbrocade.jpg as well as 
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/desiregoldbrocade.jpg - those are the brocades that can be seen in the Unicorn tapestries. Compare the shape of that 'flower' to the one in my fabric. 

However, I have some questions about the construction of the gown I would like to reproduce - this one here, from the "A mon seul desir"-tapestry: 
http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/tapestries/desir.html 
Picture of the original tapestry, bigger, more details, but slightly overexposed:  
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/desirecostumesoriginaljpg
Picture of a remake of this tapestry, so some details, like, for example the face, are more or less diifferent:
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/desirecostumesremake.jpg

At http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/background/history/index.html I can read that this is obviously french fashion from c. 1457-1500. I can't imagine that the clothing depicted in those tapestries is 'just' fantasy 
clothing of that time. Besides, one of the tapestries shows a sideless surcoat and another shows a plain dress, and those are definitely historical dresses. 

On the other hand I've never seen a style like the one in the 'Mon seul désir' tapestry anywhere else (which neither means that I've seen *everything* nor that it might not have existed, this is why I'm asking about it 
here ;-) )

The shape of the bodice reminds me much of Eleonora Di Toledo's burial dress, but the obviously front side split skirt is a total mystery to me. That slit doesn't seem to be right at the front nor at the side, but in 
between. The gaze-like and relatively narrow trumpet sleeves are something else I don't "understand" or can place in any way. 
It must, however, be said that tapestry weavers - especially the masters, and those tapestries were without doubt woven by masters - were very well able to depict details in a very realistic way. So either their 
templates for the weaving had big errors or what we see there is in fact real historical fashion.

Those slits appear in several of the tapestries:  
"Hearing"  the sideless surcoat is split in the front middle: www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/hearingcostumes.jpg 
"Touch" has the split moved to the very side: www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/touchladycostume.jpg 
"Smell" again has that strange split between front and side: www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/smellcostumes.jpg 
"Taste" is split down the entire front of the gown: http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/tasteladycostume.jpg (you can see it better here when clicking on the image there - the lacing can even be seen in 
that image: http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/tapestries/taste.html )
"Sight" seems to be the only costume without any splits:  
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/sightladycostume.jpg 

So my question would be: Does anyone have any proof for front/side splits in gowns or skirts of that time *except* of what's depicted in the Unicorn tapestries? And I don't mean 'denter front' or 'side' splits, I mean 
splits in between the two. 
*Or* could it be possible that overbodice and overskirt were made up separately and the normally front split skirt was turned to the side accidentally or intentionally...? (Just trying to take all possibilities into 
consideration...) 


Then there's this problem....

http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/desirecostumesoriginaljpg shows a rather deep neckline of the red bodice, surrounded by something that suspiciously looks like a jewelled netting partlet. 
However, there seems to be a dress beneath it, being made of the already mentioned patterned brocade or damask. It can be seen below the split overskirt and as narrow sleeves under the gauze sleeves. 
If I would assume that the pattern for this underdress would be like the one of the non-split dress in the "Sight"-Tapestry: 
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/sightladycostume.jpg 
then the neckline of that underdress would be too high to fit under the red overdresses' bodice without showing. So what should I do about this? I would love to work with over- and underdress; but if I would make 
the neckline so deep that it fits under the red overbodice then it seems to me it would be *too* deep for that time. 


Next problem...

The structure of the velvet (or rather, fabric) in the tapestries suspiciously looks like chenille-curtain-velvet. Some examples: 
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/touchladyvelvet.jpg
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/hearingladybluevelvet.jpg
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/smellservantredvelvet.jpg
And just for comparison; this is an Ebay auction for such chenille velvet curtains (in German, but I guess the picture says enough): 
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=180055152474
I can't help but feeling uncomfortable with that thought. On the other hand, the structure really seems to be the same. Any opinions?


And here's my last probem (for the moment, lol!)...

This seam decoration on the 'Desir' tapestry... 
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/desirecostumesremake.jpg
 ...how realistic is such a decoration? What I think to see there are pearls with giant cabouchons in between them. Is that realistic as a seam decoration?


I would be very thankful if anyone could help me solve this costuming riddle. I've sewn a lot so far - most of which can be seen on my homepage at http://www.naergilien.info - but I'm more used to later periods, 
and even if my fabric may not be so historical, I would like to reproduce that gown at least in *shape* as historically correct as possible. 
Thanks in advance, 

Sabine


		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Nov 26 08:22:22 2006
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Unicorn tapestries: "A mon seul desir", the lady
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 07:20:59 -0600
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I think that the splits are actually on the sides and I have seen the side
splits on some paintings but for the life of me I can not recall where.
Flemish comes to mind when I see the dresses.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Gerard_David_003.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Gerard_David_006.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hugo_van_der_Goes_001.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Dieric_Bouts_008.jpg
French
This is roughly the period.
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/unknown/p-unknow31.htm

I think the split may have been a way to access the purse.
Note on the Lady in blue the buttoned opening on the side of her dress.
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/smellcostumes.jpg

If I find the paintings I will post.
De
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sabine Pothmann
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 5:16 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Unicorn tapestires: "A mon seul desir", the lady


Hello to the list!

I have some questions concerning the Lady's costume in the 'A mon seul
désir" tapestry.

I've found a beautiful fabric which would match the underdress perfectly.
The material, being acetate is not really suitable - but the pattern and
appearance, in my humble opinion, is. See for yourself:
This is my fabric:

http://www.costumekittens.de/uploads/forums/pb250005.jpg
http://www.costumekittens.de/uploads/forums/pb250006.jpg
and compare this to the patterns of the fabrics in the tapestries:
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/hearingladygoldbrocadejpg and
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/smellladygoldbrocade.jpg as well
as
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/desiregoldbrocade.jpg - those are
the brocades that can be seen in the Unicorn tapestries. Compare the shape
of that 'flower' to the one in my fabric.

However, I have some questions about the construction of the gown I would
like to reproduce - this one here, from the "A mon seul desir"-tapestry:
http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/tapestries/desir.html
Picture of the original tapestry, bigger, more details, but slightly
overexposed:
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/desirecostumesoriginaljpg
Picture of a remake of this tapestry, so some details, like, for example the
face, are more or less diifferent:
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/desirecostumesremake.jpg

At http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/background/history/index.html I can
read that this is obviously french fashion from c. 1457-1500. I can't
imagine that the clothing depicted in those tapestries is 'just' fantasy
clothing of that time. Besides, one of the tapestries shows a sideless
surcoat and another shows a plain dress, and those are definitely historical
dresses.

On the other hand I've never seen a style like the one in the 'Mon seul
désir' tapestry anywhere else (which neither means that I've seen
*everything* nor that it might not have existed, this is why I'm asking
about it
here ;-) )

The shape of the bodice reminds me much of Eleonora Di Toledo's burial
dress, but the obviously front side split skirt is a total mystery to me.
That slit doesn't seem to be right at the front nor at the side, but in
between. The gaze-like and relatively narrow trumpet sleeves are something
else I don't "understand" or can place in any way.
It must, however, be said that tapestry weavers - especially the masters,
and those tapestries were without doubt woven by masters - were very well
able to depict details in a very realistic way. So either their
templates for the weaving had big errors or what we see there is in fact
real historical fashion.

Those slits appear in several of the tapestries:
"Hearing"  the sideless surcoat is split in the front middle:
www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/hearingcostumes.jpg
"Touch" has the split moved to the very side:
www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/touchladycostume.jpg
"Smell" again has that strange split between front and side:
www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/smellcostumes.jpg
"Taste" is split down the entire front of the gown:
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/tasteladycostume.jpg (you can see
it better here when clicking on the image there - the lacing can even be
seen in
that image: http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/tapestries/taste.html )
"Sight" seems to be the only costume without any splits:
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/sightladycostume.jpg

So my question would be: Does anyone have any proof for front/side splits in
gowns or skirts of that time *except* of what's depicted in the Unicorn
tapestries? And I don't mean 'denter front' or 'side' splits, I mean
splits in between the two.
*Or* could it be possible that overbodice and overskirt were made up
separately and the normally front split skirt was turned to the side
accidentally or intentionally...? (Just trying to take all possibilities
into
consideration...)


Then there's this problem....

http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/desirecostumesoriginaljpg shows a
rather deep neckline of the red bodice, surrounded by something that
suspiciously looks like a jewelled netting partlet.
However, there seems to be a dress beneath it, being made of the already
mentioned patterned brocade or damask. It can be seen below the split
overskirt and as narrow sleeves under the gauze sleeves.
If I would assume that the pattern for this underdress would be like the one
of the non-split dress in the "Sight"-Tapestry:
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/sightladycostume.jpg
then the neckline of that underdress would be too high to fit under the red
overdresses' bodice without showing. So what should I do about this? I would
love to work with over- and underdress; but if I would make
the neckline so deep that it fits under the red overbodice then it seems to
me it would be *too* deep for that time.


Next problem...

The structure of the velvet (or rather, fabric) in the tapestries
suspiciously looks like chenille-curtain-velvet. Some examples:
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/touchladyvelvet.jpg
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/hearingladybluevelvet.jpg
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/smellservantredvelvet.jpg
And just for comparison; this is an Ebay auction for such chenille velvet
curtains (in German, but I guess the picture says enough):
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=180055152474
I can't help but feeling uncomfortable with that thought. On the other hand,
the structure really seems to be the same. Any opinions?


And here's my last probem (for the moment, lol!)...

This seam decoration on the 'Desir' tapestry...
http://www.naergilien.info/unicorncostumes/desirecostumesremake.jpg
 ...how realistic is such a decoration? What I think to see there are pearls
with giant cabouchons in between them. Is that realistic as a seam
decoration?


I would be very thankful if anyone could help me solve this costuming
riddle. I've sewn a lot so far - most of which can be seen on my homepage at
http://www.naergilien.info - but I'm more used to later periods,
and even if my fabric may not be so historical, I would like to reproduce
that gown at least in *shape* as historically correct as possible.
Thanks in advance,


Sabine



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Nov 26 12:37:46 2006
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In-Reply-To: <002201c71141$b1a670d0$2ee73f50@CPQ21932199711>
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From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] a question about museums
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 12:14:14 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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      It depends on whether the museum has photos or slides available  
of objects.  Besides postcards and prints, some museums have  
professionally made slides of various objects.  f they have them,  
they will sell them!  :-)

      It's a question for the specific museum.

      If you wanted someone to take photos just for you, that may be  
a bit more difficult to arrange.

      -Carol


On Nov 26, 2006, at 5:00 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> I went to se the Marie Antoinette movie last week, and my eyes fell  
> on a gentlemans suit. It was copyed from Revolution in Fashion from  
> Kyoto.
> After the movie all i could think about was i want to embroider  
> that suit two, i tryed to photograph from the book and make a  
> pattern repeat of the embroidery, and i can, but its impossible to  
> se how big the embroidery is.
> Do you think the museum would let me buy a photo of the embroidery  
> and also meassures of the embroidery, (how wide it is)?
> Next i think about, maybe the museum dont have any pictures at all,  
> maybe it was the makers of the books who owns the pictures?
> I was very surprised recently when i asked a museum in Gotland,  
> Sweden about a pair of stays in their collection, i noticed it in a  
> new swedish book. When i contakted the museum, they didnt have any  
> pictures of it.
> Japan is way out of my budget to travel to just for that.
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Unicorn tapestires: "A mon seul desir", the lady
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On Sun, 26 Nov 2006, Sabine Pothmann wrote:

> I have some questions concerning the Lady's costume in the 'A mon seul
> désir" tapestry....

Replicating these costumes is an exercise in frustration because they *do*
contain many fantasy elements, and some things simply don't work out
right. The basic shape is that of fashionable dress, but some of the very
things you cite -- the skirt slits, the jeweled trims, the lattice-like
work at the necklines, the sleeve layerings -- do not appear in images
that are better grounded in realism, and as far as I can determine, are
visual code for fantastical, legendary, and allegorical characters such as
goddesses, saints, fairies, angels, and mythical heroines. Many of these
elements appear in late-15th-c. Franco-Flemish art, sometimes in other
combinations and on other garments -- but virtually always signifying
non-realistic characters. The tapestry artist clearly was intending to
depict the Lady as such a character; the maid's costume is far closer to
real noble dress (and far easier to replicate!), though it still contains
some otherworldly elements here and there.

> I can't imagine that the clothing depicted in those tapestries is
> 'just' fantasy clothing of that time. Besides, one of the tapestries
> shows a sideless surcoat and another shows a plain dress, and those
> are definitely historical dresses.

The sideless surcote, which I've talked about at length here and so will
not discuss in detail now, was a fashionable dress in the 14th century,
and moved early in the 15th century to being a royal ceremonial costume.
By the time these tapestries were made, it very likely wasn't worn in life
even in those circumstances; however, artistic variations of the sideless
surcote appear in art throughout the 15th century as code for "queenly
figure." These later 15th century designs generally have no grounding in
real fashion, and are highly inconsistent even from one to another, as
each reflects the artist's own fanciful elaboration on a by-then
century-old historic fashion. (I delivered this material as a paper in
1994 and frequently lecture about it; if you want more detail I can point
you to archived posts at which I've expounded at length. Yes, I am aiming
to publish it -- figure about 2-3 years out, as I have another paper or
two to do first and I have to rework my database to add all the new
surcotes I've collected in the last decade.)

We've talked about the Lady & Unicorn tapestries here before. Below I'll
append a few chunks from some of my earlier posts that address some of
your questions. Pardon me for any repetition below of what I've just
written above.

--Robin


>From a post of 5 Aug 2005
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 15th Century ornamentation and other questions.


Skipping to the most pertinent question regarding the Cluny unicorn
tapestries

> 3. Can these be considered a reliable source or are they more the
> fanciful creations of the tapestries' designer?

The latter, in large part. Overall, the Lady's dresses include quite a
number of elements that I've seen only in allegorical or fantasy figures
in art of this period; she is essentially being represented as a goddess
or otherwise other-worldly figure. The Lady's maid is dressed closer to
reality in most part, though with some elements that are probably still
fantasy. The headdresses in particular are not trustworthy, though there
are some recongizably fashionable elements about some of them. Also, I
would not take literally the heavy jeweled borders (particularly jewels on
the hem), and I'm a little leery of the placement of the overdress slits.
In some cases the layering is nonsensical if you compare what's visible at
hem, sleeves, and neckline -- that is, to make certain of the ensembles
work, you have to fake layers, which technically might have been done but
most likely represents a fantasy representation (more like stage costume)
rather than a reflection of actual practice.

You can certainly come up with some lovely dresses based on the tapestry
figures -- I've done it myself -- but it would probably take you a very
long time of research (and much comparison with other Franco-Flemish art
of this period) to get a sense of which elements are likely based in
period practice and which ones the period viewer would have recognized as
fanciful or allegorical. If you want to produce something documentably
accurate as real-people wear, don't start here. If you want to produce
something that embodies the period ideal of beauty and luxury, then this
is a good model.

> And no, I didn't know there was a fictional book based on these
> tapestries until I started looking for pictures of them.

By Tracy Chevalier, the same author who wrote "Girl with a Pearl Earring,"
which in my mind was better. For "The Lady With the Unicorn," Chevalier
obviously did a lot of research into the tapestry-weaving industry, but
it's clear that she doesn't have a thorough understanding of costume; her
fleeting references to the characters' clothing are vague (possibly
deliberately, to avoid making errors, though she still makes a few), and
she completely overlooks the highly significant clothing of the figures in
the tapestries, though she does dwell on the symbolic and realistic
elements of the other items in the tapestries.

--Robin



>From a post of 6 Aug 2005 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: unicorn tapestries

On Sat, 6 Aug 2005, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> Yes, they're more fantasy than anything else, but for a wedding dress
> who cares? They would all be lovely. I am not familiar with the
> belgian versions seen on this site, but there are fine books available
> of the French tapestries.

In particular, the Cluny Museum sells a catalog about them, with large
fold-out color images and lots of close-ups. It comes in an English
version, too. My copy is La Dame a la Licorne, by Alain
Erlande-Brandenburg (Paris: Editions de la Reunion des Musees Nationaux,
1979), ISBN 2711801187. I have used mine so much that the binding is in
pieces.

> That's her hair sticking out like a tassle. If I were making this (and
> there's one version on the French tapestries that I think is charming,
> bizarre though it is), I would use false hair the same color as my
> own. To me, it looks like false hair wrapped with ribbons and sort of
> draped around the had or headcovering or whatever you call it. There
> doesn't seem to be any attempt to make it look like her real hair --
> there's no where for it to have come from!

I've made it work both on me (with my own hair) and on a friend (with a
long blonde wig). Separate the hair into two halves down the back. Cross
the two tails, and wrap each with ribbon while pulling it around and up
the opposite sides of the head. Where they meet, use the ribbon to tie
them together and then wrap them into a single tassel. If you do this over
a draped velvet headdress such as is shown, you can make it sit so that it
sticks up and the loose ends of hair at the top spout like a fountain --
really bizarre but just like the picture.

This was part of the show-and-tell for a dress and textiles session that
covered pavilions and the Unicorn Tapestry costumes, at the Medieval
Congress in 1990. To drum up a little interest, we set up a tableau
display on the theme of the tapestries, though by no means an exact
reproduction of any of them. My research partner Verna Rutz brought the
red-and-gold pavilion she made, which is quite similar to the one in the
final tapestry, and I made the costumes for the Lady (played by Emilysue
Pinnell, now Reichardt) and her maid (me). The Lady's costume was mostly
based on the one in A Mon Seul Desire (the pavilion tapestry) with the
headdress from Hearing and the neckline from Smell, and the Maid's was
mostly like the one in the Smell tapestry. Emilysue played her vielle, and
she and Verna also brought two enormous stuffed toys -- a unicorn and a
lion -- to add to the atmosphere. It was amusing ;-)

Emilysue, I believe, still has the Lady's costume, and I still have the
Maid's, which would serve quite well as a reasonable fashionable dress,
though I suspect it would be rather tight on me now. I'm still pleased
with the cuts, but I had to make some concessions in fabrics to achieve
the "look." I used drapery brocades and moires (which were probably mostly
rayons and acetates), and recycled a velvet bedspread (probably cotton,
but it had a nice uniform texture and no crushing problem). They all
looked exactly right and behaved surprisingly well, and I frankly don't
think I could find silk in those patterns and textures anyway, so it was
probably as close as I could get short of having the fabrics made
specially. I did use a lot of glass jewels and brass studs instead of real
jewels and gold, of course, but then the quantity of gold and jewels on
the Lady's dresses probably wasn't realistic anyway (which was the point
of the paper).

--Robin


>From a post of 2 Dec 2005
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What periods for these fabrics?


> ... One or more of the unicorn tapestries has a woman wearing
> what appears to be moire (the wood grain looking stuff)

The moire-looking fabric there is actually watered silk, which has a
puddle-ripple sort of design made from allowing water to pool on the silk;
it's a rather different sort of look, and made by a different method.
(When I did a display piece based on this, I actually found a damask with
a woven pattern in that sort of shape; not the right texture, but the
right visual effect!) It's true, though, that anyone happy enough with
rayon satin probably isn't going to fuss about the shape of the pattern.
But I am wondering when the wood-grain version, which is created by
pressing the pattern into the surface of the fabric, was introduced.

--Robin


>From a post of 1 May 2006
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn  (smell)


On Mon, 1 May 2006, mischele1 wrote:

> This dress is caught in my mind.
> Is it allogorical (sp)
> http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/pages/page_id18374_u1l2.htm

The short answer: In all six of the tapestries, the Lady's dress carries
many elements associated with allegorical and fantasy figures. The skirt
slit is the obvious indicator on this one; on others, it's the heavy
jeweled hem or the headdress. But also the overall level of decoration.

The maid's dress is far closer to real clothing of noblewomen, but
occasional has some oddnesses (mostly in headdress).

The long answer was the substance of a presentation Verna Rutz and I gave
on this topic at the International Medieval Congress quite some years ago.

Even if my research hadn't shown me the linkages between the lady's dress
and other allegorical/fantasy images, I would have found it out just from
doing the reproductions (I made a version of the Lady and one of the Maid,
mostly from this very tapestry). Things like layers being in a different
order on the sleeves/neckline/hem... easy enough to do in a picture, but
no way to do it in real life unless you fake something. 

If you like this style, I encourage you to look at other secular
tapestries from the period. There are a number on hunting, winemaking, and
other courtly pursuits that are full of nobles without allegorical
significance. Look carefully, though, as often tapestries do tell tales of
historical or mythological heroes and heroines, and it can be easy to
confuse them.

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] "Walking Art," at the Italian Cultural Institute
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An article appeared in my local paper about this exhibit.
http://tinyurl.com/ye4spw or 
http://www.honoluluadvertiser.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20061126/LIFE08/611260320/1076

Has anyone seen the exhibit and if so, how was it?

lisa

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Walking Art," at the Italian Cultural Institute
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Sounds interesting!
But the article's comment "The kings of France adopted high heels, as  
did the aristocracy, which explains why poor people who couldn't  
afford them were said to be "down at their heels." sounds fishy to  
me. My understanding (gleaned where? the mists of time  make source  
uncertain) was that people "down at the heel" walked their heels into  
nothing--and couldn't afford new shoes (or heels). So, Yes to poverty  
but No to an inability to afford high-heeled shoes to begin with....
"Round-heeled" reported a similar phenomenon but due to excessive  
walking on the job--i.e., street-walker. This is a similar  
"understanding" of mine....
Any corrections (or support) from people less dependent on fuzzy  
memories would be welcome!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Nov 26, 2006, at 4:42 PM, lisa wrote:

> An article appeared in my local paper about this exhibit.
> http://tinyurl.com/ye4spw or http://www.honoluluadvertiser.com/apps/ 
> pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20061126/LIFE08/611260320/1076
>
> Has anyone seen the exhibit and if so, how was it?
>
> lisa
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: "Sca-Laurels" <sca-laurels@ansteorra.org>,
        "SCA-GARB" <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>, "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>,
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I'm sorry that I'm shot gunning this out to each of the lists that I think
might have the info, but I've deleted it and have people who are looking at
me in an unloving way.

There were two books that came out very recently about the final
conservation of some of the smaller objects from a Scandinavian dig.  Price
for the pair was about $250 or so (made my eyes cross and my credit cards
stay firmly in my wallet)  At any rate I deleted the messages about them,
then cleared out my outbox.

Does this ring any bells for anyone?  They are new, the only place to get
them is the National Museum; they are Scandinavian (okay, they might have
been Viking (job description not a people).  Can Someone help Please!

Saint Phlip?

Wanda Pease
"Everything is easy as long as someone else has to do it!"

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2 Very Expensive Books
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 21:52:53 -0500
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On Sunday 26 November 2006 9:19 pm, Wanda Pease wrote:
> I'm sorry that I'm shot gunning this out to each of the lists that I think
> might have the info, but I've deleted it and have people who are looking at
> me in an unloving way.
>
> There were two books that came out very recently about the final
> conservation of some of the smaller objects from a Scandinavian dig.  Price
> for the pair was about $250 or so (made my eyes cross and my credit cards
> stay firmly in my wallet)  At any rate I deleted the messages about them,
> then cleared out my outbox.
>
> Does this ring any bells for anyone?  They are new, the only place to get
> them is the National Museum; they are Scandinavian (okay, they might have
> been Viking (job description not a people).  Can Someone help Please!
 
I think so.  I suspect one of the books you mean is the new book on the 
analysis of the Oseberg textile finds.  Here's the title and publisher 
information on it:

Osebergfunnet IV - Tekstilene (The Oseberg find  - The textiles) by Arne 
Emil Christensen and Margareta Nockert, Kulturhistorisk Museum (May 6th 
2006), Universitetet i Oslo. 24 x 36 cm. 408pp. ISBN 82-8984-024-9

The American site that can get it for you is nordicartsbooks.com.  I know that 
because I'd asked Fred Struthers and he had them contact me, and I posted 
their e-mail to me to the list.  Here's their contact information:

 www.nordicartbooks.com

Lena Torslow Hansen, Owner
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

ART CONSULTING: SCANDINAVIA
Books on Art & Architecture
3650 Cross Creek Road
Malibu, CA 90265-4946

TEL (310) 456-8762
FAX (310) 456-5714
www.nordicartbooks.com

If you can get the Norwegian National Museum to sell it to you, you will get 
it for less than $250 (probably even with postage), because their price is 
actually about 1000 kroner which is approximately $170 USD, but others on 
this list have tried to do that and if you aren't in Norway and can't buy it 
in person you may have to arrange payment by bank transfer since they seem to 
be reluctant/unable to handle credit card payments.  

I'm not sure which other book you mean.  Someone mentioned a book on the 
Waterford dig, but that book was specifically mentioned as being OUT of print 
and unavailable by ILL, and someone was looking for it.  

> Saint Phlip?

Actually, Saint Jude was the patron saint of impossible causes.  :-)

If this isn't one of the books you had in mind, I apologize.  Good luck in 
tracking down the information you need.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Walking Art," at the Italian Cultural Institute
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Don't know about "round heeled" referring to excessive walking-- I've heard
it was because a woman of easy virtue was easily pushed over, meaning she
had round heels instead of square ones which would tend to keep her from
tipping over.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 2:08 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Walking Art," at the Italian Cultural Institute


Sounds interesting!
But the article's comment "The kings of France adopted high heels, as  
did the aristocracy, which explains why poor people who couldn't  
afford them were said to be "down at their heels." sounds fishy to  
me. My understanding (gleaned where? the mists of time  make source  
uncertain) was that people "down at the heel" walked their heels into  
nothing--and couldn't afford new shoes (or heels). So, Yes to poverty  
but No to an inability to afford high-heeled shoes to begin with....
"Round-heeled" reported a similar phenomenon but due to excessive  
walking on the job--i.e., street-walker. This is a similar  
"understanding" of mine....
Any corrections (or support) from people less dependent on fuzzy  
memories would be welcome!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Nov 26, 2006, at 4:42 PM, lisa wrote:

> An article appeared in my local paper about this exhibit.
> http://tinyurl.com/ye4spw or http://www.honoluluadvertiser.com/apps/ 
> pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20061126/LIFE08/611260320/1076
>
> Has anyone seen the exhibit and if so, how was it?
>
> lisa
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I managed to find the Waterford excavation book at the
university library, and scanned the image (p.597).

Download image (387 kb) here:
http://www.sendspace.com/file/1pi2y8

Figure text (p.596): fig. 16:15:9: Weaving shuttle:
E257:1339:30+386: Backyard sill-b hses
PS2/3:L11:L12th-E13th C: Yew. L. 195mm. Lentoid in
overall shape. Max. W. 41mm tapering to 6mm at
terminals. Max. Th. 20mm tapering to 5 mm at
terminals. Centre hollowed out. L. 100mm x W. 25mm.
One terminal has three holes bored vertically D. 2mm,
3.5mm and 5.5mm. The smallest does not perforate. The
largest has an extant peg L. 27mm. The peg as a
tapering hole wich corresponds to the 'horizontal'
perforations on the inner faces of the terminals. At
the opposing terminal this perforation has two points
and has worn or been fashioned throught to the surface
suggesting that whatever fixture was inserted could be
easily detached at this end. One arm also has a hole
through it which may function to store the artefact
safely. The terminals have slight scoring evident
which may be the result of binding.


/ Lena


> > > Does someone have access to:
> > >
> > > Late Viking Age and Medieval Waterford:
> Excavations 1986-1992 (Hardcover)
> > > by Maurice F. Hurley, Orla M.B. Scully, Sarah
> W.J. McCutcheon, S. Durack
> > > (Illustrator), G. O'Neill (Illustrator)
> Institute of Public
> > > Administration
> > > (Oct 1997) ISBN: 1872002986
> > >
> > > It is out of print and unavailable for
> Interlibrary loan. I
> > > understand that
> > > a boat shuttle (weaving) was found. Could
> someone scan or photocopy the
> > > image and text about the shuttle for me, please?
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > > Beth


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums
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Museums are kinda weird this way.  The Phoenix Art Museum for instance has 
no photograph what so ever of the portrait of the dress I am 
recreating......you'd think they'd photograph everything just for insurance 
purposes.

I'd contact the museum.  Often, they will photograph the article if you are 
willing to pay for it.  It can be pricey.  The Norton Simon Museum offered 
to do this for me on a particular portrait.  They wanted $100 6 years ago.


Sg


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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 12:04:03 -0500
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A lot of times it's pricey because they don't have a professional
photographer on staff and to have one come in and do a set-up just for
one object costs them a lot.

Kate
609-570-3584

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:19 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums

Museums are kinda weird this way.  The Phoenix Art Museum for instance
has 
no photograph what so ever of the portrait of the dress I am 
recreating......you'd think they'd photograph everything just for
insurance 
purposes.

I'd contact the museum.  Often, they will photograph the article if you
are 
willing to pay for it.  It can be pricey.  The Norton Simon Museum
offered 
to do this for me on a particular portrait.  They wanted $100 6 years
ago.


Sg


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi,
Yes you are right, i went to the museums website and they do have a 
photographer there, but i would have to pay him, and that would be 
expensive. Perhaps i could travel to Gotland for the same money.  I got the 
feeling that the museum would not mind me photographing the stays.
These stays are some of the most beautifull i have seen, very plain, but 
beautifull craftmanship. Grey linnen with blue tiny tapes at the seams. And 
besides this is very unusual dated from 1760-80 because it has a boatshaped 
neckline, with tied shoulderstraps off the shoulders.
I have ben thinking i would send Ian the staymaker a copy of the photo from 
the book, because it is so beautifull.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums


>A lot of times it's pricey because they don't have a professional
> photographer on staff and to have one come in and do a set-up just for
> one object costs them a lot.
>
> Kate
> 609-570-3584
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:19 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums
>
> Museums are kinda weird this way.  The Phoenix Art Museum for instance
> has
> no photograph what so ever of the portrait of the dress I am
> recreating......you'd think they'd photograph everything just for
> insurance
> purposes.
>
> I'd contact the museum.  Often, they will photograph the article if you
> are
> willing to pay for it.  It can be pricey.  The Norton Simon Museum
> offered
> to do this for me on a particular portrait.  They wanted $100 6 years
> ago.
>
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Subject: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
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Hi,
I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug (very 
fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that 
this no longer is made.
I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown 
with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter, 
but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
Blast!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
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Kimiko Small wrote:
> Thank you Janet for sharing this. 
>    
>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright restriction is not on the website?
>    

I saw the exhibit this weekend, and got this book. I agree with Suzi, it 
has excellent images, many full-page and very clearly reproduced. It has 
all the images (I think) and yes, there are a bunch of sketches and some 
portraits not usually reproduced in other books. There's also a good 
selection of non-portrait works, designs for jewelry and covered cups 
and such.

>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has another book that is thicker
>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?

It's like the catalogue, but I believe it covers all of Holbein, not 
just his years in England. It's at least two inches thick. I thought 
about getting it, but it was expensive and I thought it might put me 
over my luggage weight limit (no kidding!).



Dawn

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
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At 23:47 27/11/2006, you wrote:
>Kimiko Small wrote:
>>Thank you Janet for sharing this.
>>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in 
>> England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting 
>> for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright 
>> restriction is not on the website?
>>
>
>I saw the exhibit this weekend, and got this book. I agree with 
>Suzi, it has excellent images, many full-page and very clearly 
>reproduced. It has all the images (I think) and yes, there are a 
>bunch of sketches and some portraits not usually reproduced in other 
>books. There's also a good selection of non-portrait works, designs 
>for jewelry and covered cups and such.
>
>>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has 
>> another book that is thicker
>>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?
>
>It's like the catalogue, but I believe it covers all of Holbein, not 
>just his years in England. It's at least two inches thick. I thought 
>about getting it, but it was expensive and I thought it might put me 
>over my luggage weight limit (no kidding!).

Glad you got to see the exhibit. Did you take as long as us, or were 
you able to drag yourself away? I just love those drawings - so much 
detail, and so much more "real" than the oil paintings.

Suzi

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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 14:56:55 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again
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In a message dated 11/25/2006 8:43:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com writes:

First  off, yup, I agree with you, they are a bit too big around the bust.  I 
 
think you could take them in along the side front curve and that would  work 
nicely.  It may also push her breasts together a bit, giving her  more 
cleavage.

I have a question though...Is she wearing them with  a bra in that photo?  If 
she is, it will throw off your fitting  entirely.  She should have a chemise 
to wear underneath, that's all,  then the stays can do their own work.  This 
may also be why she  believes they fit her.




*********************************************
 
Greetings....I hope everyone had a great holiday....those who had  
holidays....hell, and those who didn't!
 
Beautiful stays, of course, Bjarne. I would take in the bust area in bits  at 
several places, At the side AND the CF....and even somewhere in-between if  
possible, but that would require re-cutting the whole front after altering the  
pattern. And the decolletage may need to be lowered an inch or so.
And a fitting sans bra may release and free her bust to fill the front  of 
the corset more.
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 16:17:47 -0800
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Goodness Gracious but I seem to be putting out a lot of grumpy posts lately.

Museums and many "collections" make the money to allow them to be open at
all from public donations, a tax stipend, or ticket sales.  All of these
come out of the public pocket.  Those who will not allow a member of that
public to take their own pictures without paying the high prices of a
"professional" strike me as a bit "dog in the manger" types (sorry Bjarne,
it's one of the Aesop tales - I'm sure it's familiar to you with different
wording).  When I took pictures in the Museum of Munich of the various
garments on display the only thing that they required is that I not utilize
a tripod or a flash.  The guard in each room asked me to demonstrate that I
had the flash "off" before I could take pictures in his room.  That way the
pieces were not being exposed to any more light than they ever were.  I had
two cameras with me.  One was a regular Pentax camera with 1600 ASA film,
but no flash attachment (he seemed to be a bit puzzled by that, I'm not sure
he'd seen a film camera before) and a 5Megabyte Sony (?).  I knew how to
turn the flash on and off, something that too many idiot tourists didn't, or
couldn't see why THEY should be restricted by such rules.  Something I doubt
that any on this list would give them a hassle about.

My non flash pictures with the film camera came out better than I could
actually see the items, which were kept in fairly dim rooms.

I know that someone is going to point out that the money the museum earns
from photographic reprints is a large part of their budget.  This is all
very well, but the pictures and other works of art and history are not
THEIRS.  They are caring for them for the people.  Well, I'm one of the
people too!  If it weren't for me and people like me the items would be used
to cover cabbages to keep them from frost.

Civil Servant (I'm One) does not equate to Civil Master.  The things in
museums are financed with your money!  Therefore it is not unreasonable for
you to be allowed to photograph an item very carefully so that possibly
hundreds of people could share your information and not just the few that
manage to come through "their museum" every year!

On the other hand I have been able to make arrangements with museums and
libraries in Germany and England and have them fall all over themselves to
help me get exactly what I wanted and allowed me to distribute as many
copies as I wanted (free, of course) as long as I mentioned them, and gave
their address.

Wanda
>
> Hi,
> Yes you are right, i went to the museums website and they do have a
> photographer there, but i would have to pay him, and that would be
> expensive. Perhaps i could travel to Gotland for the same money.
> I got the
> feeling that the museum would not mind me photographing the stays.
> These stays are some of the most beautifull i have seen, very plain, but
> beautifull craftmanship. Grey linnen with blue tiny tapes at the
> seams. And
> besides this is very unusual dated from 1760-80 because it has a
> boatshaped
> neckline, with tied shoulderstraps off the shoulders.
> I have ben thinking i would send Ian the staymaker a copy of the
> photo from
> the book, because it is so beautifull.
>
> Bjarne
>

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
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WAAAAAH!!!!!  I didn't get to go:(

Is the book on the collection really good?

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 7:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit

At 23:47 27/11/2006, you wrote:
>Kimiko Small wrote:
>>Thank you Janet for sharing this.
>>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in 
>> England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting 
>> for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright 
>> restriction is not on the website?
>>
>
>I saw the exhibit this weekend, and got this book. I agree with 
>Suzi, it has excellent images, many full-page and very clearly 
>reproduced. It has all the images (I think) and yes, there are a 
>bunch of sketches and some portraits not usually reproduced in other 
>books. There's also a good selection of non-portrait works, designs 
>for jewelry and covered cups and such.
>
>>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has 
>> another book that is thicker
>>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?
>
>It's like the catalogue, but I believe it covers all of Holbein, not 
>just his years in England. It's at least two inches thick. I thought 
>about getting it, but it was expensive and I thought it might put me 
>over my luggage weight limit (no kidding!).

Glad you got to see the exhibit. Did you take as long as us, or were 
you able to drag yourself away? I just love those drawings - so much 
detail, and so much more "real" than the oil paintings.

Suzi

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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 21:50:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
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Hi Bjarne,
   
  I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that elusive fine linen.
   
  However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen. 
  http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
  100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35” wide, $14.50/yd.
WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white
   
  He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55 threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon request, as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.
   
  The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other handkerchief weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am no expert on linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still learning.
   
  It may be worth a look for you.
   
  Kimiko
  

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
  Hi,
I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug (very 
fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that 
this no longer is made.
I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown 
with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter, 
but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
Blast!

Bjarne


 
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <970960.68830.qm@web32214.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 23:27:34 -0700
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I have the remnants (carefully hoarded) of two bolts of a cotton/linen blend
that has a thread count of roughly 60/inch.  Better, it's evenweave, same
count in both directions.  It is, too date (after almost 20 years in the
SCA) the finest linen or linen approximation I have personally seen for
sale.  *sigh*
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen


> Hi Bjarne,
>
>   I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen
recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that
elusive fine linen.
>
>   However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine
2.8 oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen.
>   http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
>   100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35" wide, $14.50/yd.
> WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white
>
>   He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55
threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my
math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your
kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon request,
as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.
>
>   The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other
handkerchief weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am
no expert on linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still
learning.
>
>   It may be worth a look for you.
>
>   Kimiko
>
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>   Hi,
> I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
> I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug
(very
> fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
> this no longer is made.
> I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
> with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
> The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter,
> but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
> Blast!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and
get things done faster.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit/London shows
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At 03:26 28/11/2006, you wrote:
>WAAAAAH!!!!!  I didn't get to go:(
>
>Is the book on the collection really good?

It's terrific - do you want me to get you one? I got you postcards! 
The book was a bit heavy to carry with me through the Velasquez 
exhibition we did on the same day, especially as I had one for me! 
You will know a lot of the pictures, but there are some that are not 
readily available on the Internet.

If anyone is coming to London in the next few months there are 
several new exhibitions due - one I am particularly looking forward 
to is "Canaletto in England" (I think) at the Dulwich Picture 
Gallery. I can check the others if anyone is interested.

Suzi 

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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 03:57:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Bjarne.
   
  Why don't you talk to the nice woman who used to run Broderi Antik in Copenhagen.
  She had the most amazing "kammerdug" of which I had a meter. Still do. Afraid ot even look at it. She might be able to help you.
  Her email is elmbak@broderiantik.com
   
   
  Tania

Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
  Hi Bjarne,

I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that elusive fine linen.

However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen. 
http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35” wide, $14.50/yd.
WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white

He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55 threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon request, as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.

The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other handkerchief weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am no expert on linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still learning.

It may be worth a look for you.

Kimiko


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
Hi,
I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug (very 
fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that 
this no longer is made.
I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown 
with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter, 
but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
Blast!

Bjarne



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I vaguely remember somebody ages ago mentioning that they had a supplier of 
linen velvets (and other materials).

Am I right, or am I imagining things, and if so can whoever it was let me 
know, please?

Thanks loads,

Debbie.
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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 06:37:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Frances Webb <heirloomsew@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Dear All,
   
  I have purchased fine Ulster Linen for drawn thread work from Wendy Schoen, who teaches hand embroidery and designs patterns http://www.wendyschoendesign.com.
   
  Under "Fabric and Trims," about 2/3 down, she has several grades for sale:
    Ulster 1000C Linen ($26 / yard)
    Ulster 1200 Cambric Handkerchief Linen ($42 / yard)
    Ulster 1300 Cambric Handkerchief Linen ($54 / yard)
    Ulster 14HC Cambric Handkerchief Linen ($52 / yard)
    Ulster 3126 Cambric Handkerchief Linen ($22 / yard)
   
  At the very bottom of the page is her contact information.  If you have any questions, I'm sure she or her assistant, Jane Briscoe, would be happy to try to answer them.
   
  She is located near New Orleans; I don't know if she ships outside the USA.
   
  My best,
  Frances in Virginia
   
   
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From: Irmgart <irmgart@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - sources for plus size maternity clothes
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just found this today: http://jakeandme.stores.yahoo.net/maternitypants.html

On 11/1/06, Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I'm sure the topic is a giveaway. :-)
>
>   I am stumped as to where to find a good source of plus size maternity clothes including underthings. The maternity shops I have been to have virtually nonexistent plus size departments and the online sources are incredibly expensive! (hard to justify that sort of money for something that is only going to worn a short time). Not to mention I'm not particularly fond of most of the styles I have seen. The 'Big 3' have about 2 pages each of maternity patterns, and even the fall book styles look like summer clothes.
>
>   I did find a few things on eBay that are cute, but the pants are too short. (I have a 34" inseam) Anyone know where I can find nice maternity clothes in the size 20 - 22 range - and that aren't styled for the under 30 crowd?
>
>   Thanks,
>   Annette (de-lurking before my regular clothes no longer fit)
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Everyone is raving about the  all-new Yahoo! Mail.
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Speaking of linen, I just got this email today:


"You might like to take a look at our new website: -
www.belfasttheatricallinens.com where you will find a small selection of
the linens we offer.  Most of our products are available from stock and
can be despatched on the same day.

In the meantime if you have any linen requirements please do not
hesitate to contact me or alternatively I would be pleased to send you a
sample book showing our complete collection of linens."


I don't know anything about this company, and they seem to be using 
"linen" in a broad sense to mean 'fabric', but the site might be helpful 
to some of you searching for specific materials.


Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] question on velvets
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I see linen velvet pretty regularly on ebay--it looks quite lovely.  Prices 
range from $5/yd to more like $50 or $100, with the heavily striated stuff 
that historical people like less going for more. As a generality, expect to 
pay ~$15-$25/yd if you're willing to wait a few months whilst trolling. I 
just did a quick search and got 27 hits, ~20 of which were for fabric. Mind 
you, some of the linen velvets contain very little actual linen--apparently 
it's like 'silk velvet'--so it's worth checking, though the sellers often 
just don't know.  I have seen some in the past that at least claimed to be 
100%.

I've been meaning to get some for a while now, but always seem to spend the 
money elsewhere first--if you get some, let us know what you think of it!

-E House

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20061128115732.23507.qmail@web39612.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 14:01:57 +0100
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Hej Tanya,
Oh yes that must be the one i wans thinking about, i just asked her by mail 
about where she got it, or if she have more of it left.
What a shame she closed the shop.
Thanks........
Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tania Gruning" <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen


> Bjarne.
>
>  Why don't you talk to the nice woman who used to run Broderi Antik in 
> Copenhagen.
>  She had the most amazing "kammerdug" of which I had a meter. Still do. 
> Afraid ot even look at it. She might be able to help you.
>  Her email is elmbak@broderiantik.com
>
>
>  Tania
>
> Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>  Hi Bjarne,
>
> I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen 
> recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that 
> elusive fine linen.
>
> However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 
> oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen.
> http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
> 100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35" wide, $14.50/yd.
> WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white
>
> He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55 
> threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my 
> math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your 
> kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon 
> request, as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.
>
> The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other handkerchief 
> weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am no expert on 
> linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still learning.
>
> It may be worth a look for you.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
> I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug 
> (very
> fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
> this no longer is made.
> I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
> with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
> The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter,
> but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
> Blast!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and 
> get things done faster.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <535.b1f0d17.329d97b9@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question on velvets
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 07:08:27 -0700
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I've got a little, tiny sample of it, but it came as part of a class kit for
an online class that Drea taught through Penny's Costume Classroom several
years ago....
It looks like a midpoint between cotton velveteen and cotton upholstery
velvet....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: <Debloughcostumes@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 6:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] question on velvets


> I vaguely remember somebody ages ago mentioning that they had a supplier
of
> linen velvets (and other materials).
>
> Am I right, or am I imagining things, and if so can whoever it was let me
> know, please?
>
> Thanks loads,
>
> Debbie.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 14:59:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yes it is. She had some gorgous silk embroidery floss and that kammerdug. I really would like some more, but at 300-400 (cannot remember the exact price)kr a meter it is very expensive, but ohh so luscious.

Tania

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: Hej Tanya,
Oh yes that must be the one i wans thinking about, i just asked her by mail 
about where she got it, or if she have more of it left.
What a shame she closed the shop.
Thanks........
Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tania Gruning" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen


> Bjarne.
>
>  Why don't you talk to the nice woman who used to run Broderi Antik in 
> Copenhagen.
>  She had the most amazing "kammerdug" of which I had a meter. Still do. 
> Afraid ot even look at it. She might be able to help you.
>  Her email is elmbak@broderiantik.com
>
>
>  Tania
>
> Kimiko Small  wrote:
>  Hi Bjarne,
>
> I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen 
> recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that 
> elusive fine linen.
>
> However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 
> oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen.
> http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
> 100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35" wide, $14.50/yd.
> WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white
>
> He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55 
> threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my 
> math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your 
> kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon 
> request, as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.
>
> The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other handkerchief 
> weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am no expert on 
> linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still learning.
>
> It may be worth a look for you.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
> I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug 
> (very
> fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
> this no longer is made.
> I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
> with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
> The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter,
> but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
> Blast!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and 
> get things done faster.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
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Good morning,

I just wanted to remind folks who are participating that your mailing 
deadline is December 8th. That's 10 days from now. :)

If you've lost your giftee's address, please email me privately.


Dawn




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From: Anne <adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 10:22:42 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: a question about museums
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    Regarding photo policies at museums--as a museum employee I have a 
slightly different perspective on this issue. I do, in general, believe 
that researchers should be allowed to photograph items on display in 
museums. Wanda is right, the objects in most museums are held in trust 
for the community and do not belong to the museum per se. That said, 
there are sometimes very good reasons for restrictive policies on 
photography. If the item is not on display you are taking staff time to 
pull it from storage and set it up in an area appropriate for 
photographing it. This may seem like a simple thing, but for a large 
institution with many requests this could constitute a full time job. In 
addition, the museum may not own the copyright on some items in their 
collections (I am thinking of photographs primarily). Finally, if they 
own the copyright they may want to protect it as a money-making 
opportunity. It does not take much for their images to end up on 
websites around the world and then be reproduced ad nauseum.
    I cannot speak to funding in other countries, but here in the U.S., 
saying that ticket sales and government funding covers the cost of 
caring for and providing access to objects is a joke! Many museums 
receive very little government funding and what is available these days 
is almost always project-related, i.e., no salaries or utilities are 
covered. If tickets truly reflected the cost of maintaining the 
buildings and paying the staff, much less providing state-of-the-art 
care for the objects (something only a few museums can even dream of 
doing) no one could afford to visit but the rich. The institution I work 
for is quite small, but we own four historic houses and have six full 
time staff. The building I work in has an average gas and electric bill 
of $1000 a month and it is a relatively small building compared to large 
city museums. The cost of conserving one recently damaged small paper 
item was $600. Staff salaries, while miniscule compared to other 
professions, cost the institution over $160,000 a year. Meanwhile, 
unrestricted government funding covers less than 12% of our annual 
budget. We do charge a very small fee for images of documents, but there 
is no fee to photograph items on display. The fee is charged primarily 
for the time our archivist spends pulling items and assisting 
researchers and this can be considerable.
    Sorry to go on, but museum funding is a constant source of anxiety 
for many of us in the field and I guess this touched a sore spot!
Anne

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Walking art ( h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 743)
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Ruth Anne wrote:
>But the article's comment "The kings of France adopted high heels, as 

>did the aristocracy, which explains why poor people who couldn't  
>afford them were said to be "down at their heels." sounds fishy to  
>me. My understanding (gleaned where? the mists of time  make source  
>uncertain) was that people "down at the heel" walked their heels into 

>nothing--and couldn't afford new shoes (or heels). So, Yes to poverty 

>but No to an inability to afford high-heeled shoes to begin with....

I agree. I've always understood "down-at-heel shoes" to be old ones
with the heels worn, and perhaps the backs trodden down as well.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] kammerdug /linnen
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Hi all,
I have bookmarked all your suggestions for the handkerchief linnen /cambric.
Thankyou soo much!
As Tania suggested me i contakted the lady who had the embroidery shop, and 
she answered me that she still delivers to her known clients. The cambric is 
available to her, and i just ordered 10 meters of it.
Strange that the danish handicraft guild told me they could not get it 
anymore, as there still are a lot of places who carries it. Perhaps its 
because they seldom sell any of it, and therefore gave it up.
I was very fond of this embroidery shop, the best sellection in hole town 
and besides a very kind and friendly lady who owned it.
She  told me that  now she has embroidery as a living.
I was very surprised of this and curious so i have asked her what she is 
embroidering.
Wished i could do that!

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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	Tue, 28 Nov 2006 15:28:54 PST
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 15:28:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Canaletto at Yale RE: London shows
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--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> If anyone is coming to London in the next few months
> there are several new exhibitions due - one I am 
> particularly looking forward to is "Canaletto in
> England" at the Dulwich Picture Gallery. 
> 
> Suzi 

I hope to see that exhibit before it travels to
London; it is currently on view at the Yale Center for
British Art, 1080 Canal St., New Haven, CT.  Open
through December 31, 2006.
<http://www.yale.edu/ycba>  Current Exhibitions

Ann in CT


 
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Hi everyone, I'm looking for 16th century images of bum rolls (no not to 
wear with a Spanish Farthingale),
I've got 2 in mind in particular, the first is a cartoon poking fun at 
fashion, it shows women in a dressmaker's shop and there's at least one 
woman with her skirt lifted up to show the bum roll.
The second is a painting, all I can remember is a group of women sitting on 
stools in the foreground wearing pastel colours facing away from the viewer 
to look at something in the middle of the painting (I'm thinking they are 
looking at a dance but I may be confusing it with another painting). The way 
their hips are enlarged but their skirts compress relatively easily to sit 
down suggests a bum roll, for some reason I'm thinking this image is 
associated with the French Court but I can't remember why.
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> Hi everyone, I'm looking for 16th century images of bum rolls (no not to 
> wear with a Spanish Farthingale),
> I've got 2 in mind in particular, the first is a cartoon poking fun at 
> fashion, it shows women in a dressmaker's shop and there's at least one 
> woman with her skirt lifted up to show the bum roll.

There's a cropped close-up here:
http://www.geocities.com/technically_naked/grueso8.jpg

And a smaller, but fuller image here:
http://kalenhughes.com/db4/00326/kalenhughes.com/_uimages/bum1.jpg


> The second is a painting, all I can remember is a group of women sitting 
> on stools in the foreground wearing pastel colours facing away from the 
> viewer to look at something in the middle of the painting 

Not familiar with this one, sorry.


Dawn


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Wed, 29 Nov 2006, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> The second is a painting, all I can remember is a group of women
> sitting on stools in the foreground wearing pastel colours facing away
> from the viewer to look at something in the middle of the painting
> (I'm thinking they are looking at a dance but I may be confusing it
> with another painting). The way their hips are enlarged but their
> skirts compress relatively easily to sit down suggests a bum roll, for
> some reason I'm thinking this image is associated with the French
> Court but I can't remember why.

Either of a pair of small panoramas associated with a ball commemmorating
the wedding of the Duc de Joyeuse, showing the French court of Henri III.
My slide notes say the paintings are at the Musee National du Chateau de
Versailles, but I feel certain I saw them at the Louvre a few years ago;
maybe part of the same series, maybe copies, maybe they have been moved.

Various of these images are reproduced in a lot of books; one that's easy
to find is Brian Holme's _Princely Feasts and Festivals_. I think one or
both are in Davenport as well.

--Robin

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Following up my own post (below): Here's one of the images:

http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/photo_ME0000057470.html

The presence of rolls is very clear, particularly on the woman in the
right foreground, but on some others as well.

It does seem to be at the Louvre, as I was remembering. I probably have
some photos of it and its mate, but I haven't gotten around to indexing
all of the 500 or so slides I took in Paris ... a few years ago ... yeesh,
I will never get them all straight.

--Robin


On Tue, 28 Nov 2006, Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Wed, 29 Nov 2006, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> 
> > The second is a painting, all I can remember is a group of women
> > sitting on stools in the foreground wearing pastel colours facing away
> > from the viewer to look at something in the middle of the painting
> > (I'm thinking they are looking at a dance but I may be confusing it
> > with another painting). The way their hips are enlarged but their
> > skirts compress relatively easily to sit down suggests a bum roll, for
> > some reason I'm thinking this image is associated with the French
> > Court but I can't remember why.
> 
> Either of a pair of small panoramas associated with a ball commemmorating
> the wedding of the Duc de Joyeuse, showing the French court of Henri III.
> My slide notes say the paintings are at the Musee National du Chateau de
> Versailles, but I feel certain I saw them at the Louvre a few years ago;
> maybe part of the same series, maybe copies, maybe they have been moved.
> 
> Various of these images are reproduced in a lot of books; one that's easy
> to find is Brian Holme's _Princely Feasts and Festivals_. I think one or
> both are in Davenport as well.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> 


==========================================================
Robin Netherton // Editor at Large
robin@nightowl.net
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1666
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls


>
> Following up my own post (below): Here's one of the images:
>
> http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/photo_ME0000057470.html
>
> The presence of rolls is very clear, particularly on the woman in the
> right foreground, but on some others as well.
>
> It does seem to be at the Louvre, as I was remembering. I probably have
> some photos of it and its mate, but I haven't gotten around to indexing
> all of the 500 or so slides I took in Paris ... a few years ago ... yeesh,
> I will never get them all straight.
>
> --Robin
>
Aha! I found another 
http://homepage.mac.com/muzette/Eng.File/Art/Gallery_pages/Gallery_bal.html 
it's not that big but this is the one I was thinking of.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls
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I wrote:

> > Following up my own post (below): Here's one of the images:
> > http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/photo_ME0000057470.html

Elizabeth wrote:

> Aha! I found another 
> http://homepage.mac.com/muzette/Eng.File/Art/Gallery_pages/Gallery_bal.html 
> it's not that big but this is the one I was thinking of.

Yes, that's the mate. I can't recall whether there are any more than just
these two.

--Robin

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> Either of a pair of small panoramas associated with a ball commemmorating
> the wedding of the Duc de Joyeuse, showing the French court of Henri III.
> My slide notes say the paintings are at the Musee National du Chateau de
> Versailles, but I feel certain I saw them at the Louvre a few years ago;
> maybe part of the same series, maybe copies, maybe they have been moved.
>
> Various of these images are reproduced in a lot of books; one that's easy
> to find is Brian Holme's _Princely Feasts and Festivals_. I think one or
> both are in Davenport as well.
>
> --Robin
>
thanks Robin and Dawn for the info, I've managed to find a very small 
version of the French painting 
http://www.silesiancramer.com/art/czech/16_wedding.htm but I'll keep looking 
for a larger image (it has to be electronic as I am trying to answer a 
question on another list) at least I've got one image and I have something 
to go on to find the painting.
And Robin's second message has just arrived in my inbox so I've now got a 
decent sized image.
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Hi,
I had this online some time ago in a big format. But alas its down and gone.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls


>
>
>> Either of a pair of small panoramas associated with a ball commemmorating
>> the wedding of the Duc de Joyeuse, showing the French court of Henri III.
>> My slide notes say the paintings are at the Musee National du Chateau de
>> Versailles, but I feel certain I saw them at the Louvre a few years ago;
>> maybe part of the same series, maybe copies, maybe they have been moved.
>>
>> Various of these images are reproduced in a lot of books; one that's easy
>> to find is Brian Holme's _Princely Feasts and Festivals_. I think one or
>> both are in Davenport as well.
>>
>> --Robin
>>
> thanks Robin and Dawn for the info, I've managed to find a very small 
> version of the French painting 
> http://www.silesiancramer.com/art/czech/16_wedding.htm but I'll keep 
> looking for a larger image (it has to be electronic as I am trying to 
> answer a question on another list) at least I've got one image and I have 
> something to go on to find the painting.
> And Robin's second message has just arrived in my inbox so I've now got a 
> decent sized image.
> thanks
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] linnen kammerdug
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Hi,
Sorry i keep on with this subjekt, i managed to get the fine linnen from my 
old embroidery shop.
The linnen is very very fine and transparent, and i wondered could i use 
this for trimmings two on gowns, in stead of silk gauge?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen kammerdug
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At 13:56 29/11/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Sorry i keep on with this subjekt, i managed to get the fine linnen 
>from my old embroidery shop.
>The linnen is very very fine and transparent, and i wondered could i 
>use this for trimmings two on gowns, in stead of silk gauge?
>
>Bjarne

I've never seen linen trimming a silk gown, whereas there are several 
gowns in collections with silk gauze. Silk organza makes a good 
substitute, also tulle.

The V and A has a dress with gauze, and so does the Chester County 
collection, I think - "Fitting and Proper" book. (Mind you that might 
be "Costume Closeup" - I am using all of them right now for a sacque 
I am making.)

Suzi
   

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	<7.0.1.0.2.20061129140249.033f9c58@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen kammerdug
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Hi Suzi,
For a little pleated trim, do you handsew all the edges on your gowns?
I have a nice seam folder on my machine, wich makes very nice edges.
I think organza would be two stiff, maybe a silk chiffon?
If i go to a shop here and ask for silk gauge, i dont think they would know 
what it is, or if they have it!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen kammerdug


> At 13:56 29/11/2006, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>Sorry i keep on with this subjekt, i managed to get the fine linnen from 
>>my old embroidery shop.
>>The linnen is very very fine and transparent, and i wondered could i use 
>>this for trimmings two on gowns, in stead of silk gauge?
>>
>>Bjarne
>
> I've never seen linen trimming a silk gown, whereas there are several 
> gowns in collections with silk gauze. Silk organza makes a good 
> substitute, also tulle.
>
> The V and A has a dress with gauze, and so does the Chester County 
> collection, I think - "Fitting and Proper" book. (Mind you that might be 
> "Costume Closeup" - I am using all of them right now for a sacque I am 
> making.)
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Hi, Bjarne! The transparency sounds like something your new linen fabric
shares with the silk gauze, but what about linen's tendency to ravel
fiercely? I'd imagine you sure could use it for trimmings, but you'd
probably have to hem all the bits and such, instead of pinking the edges.
Of course, I'm coming from the standpoint of someone who doesn't know much
of value about 18th century clothes, but I do recall seeing some pinked
stuff in some of my books.  So I guess it would depend on two things:
1.  What kind of trimmings you're talking about, and
2.  Whether or not linen trimmings are authentic for your time period (and
whether or not you care, too, come to think of it).

In the meantime, I'm sticking my tongue out at you, across all of the
continent and an ocean or two, in pure envy.  I'd roll over and play dead
for linen that fine!

--Sue, in Montana, where it's really, really cold and she wishes like the
dickens that she could just stay home and be cozy instead of venturing out
into sub-zero (farenheit) temps and going to work.....

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:56 AM
Subject: [h-cost] linnen kammerdug


> Hi,
> Sorry i keep on with this subjekt, i managed to get the fine linnen from
my
> old embroidery shop.
> The linnen is very very fine and transparent, and i wondered could i use
> this for trimmings two on gowns, in stead of silk gauge?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 14:55:54 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen kammerdug
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At 14:28 29/11/2006, you wrote:
>Hi Suzi,
>For a little pleated trim, do you handsew all the edges on your gowns?
>I have a nice seam folder on my machine, wich makes very nice edges.
>I think organza would be two stiff, maybe a silk chiffon?
>If i go to a shop here and ask for silk gauge, i dont think they 
>would know what it is, or if they have it!


I found silk chiffon too floppy. I usually use the overlocker/serger, 
with matching thread, or gold thread - it makes a very delicate edge, 
and is very light and pretty. The dress in yellow in the middle, is 
trimmed with yellow organza 
http://www.minuetcompany.org/galleryimages/Image10.jpg  but I have 
used white before - just don't have pictures!!

Suzi

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen kammerdug
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 20:14:27 +0100
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Dear Sue,
When i was in Sweden last visiting a friend who also reenacts, i helped her 
with a gown she is making. She wanted scalloped sleave ruffles, and i tryed 
to use the fray check to the edges.
I didnt like it, because it dyes the edge darker than the original collour 
of the silk.
The trim i have in mind is just a strip of material pleated and sewed 1/3 
from the edge, about 2 inches wide.
I think i want to stick to Suzis advise in using organza, more easy to work 
with.
Its a trimming i have made before some years ago i made the blue dress with 
chenille embroidery:
  http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/kostumer6.htm
I used my hem seamer from the machine, and it didnt look that bad. Only 1-2 
mm. wide.
The trim is for the anglaise dress i make right now, as you can see of the 
drawing, i am going to add a little pleated trim to the skirts.
And speaking of the anglaise dress, i changed the corset front and the 
result is much better, just finnished the boning with 84 bones alone in the 
front piece!
I took off some of the sides at the armhole, and then i changed the angle of 
the center front, where i took in a little center front, and also changed 
the bone angles to vertical in the front.
Much better.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen kammerdug


> Hi, Bjarne! The transparency sounds like something your new linen fabric
> shares with the silk gauze, but what about linen's tendency to ravel
> fiercely? I'd imagine you sure could use it for trimmings, but you'd
> probably have to hem all the bits and such, instead of pinking the edges.
> Of course, I'm coming from the standpoint of someone who doesn't know much
> of value about 18th century clothes, but I do recall seeing some pinked
> stuff in some of my books.  So I guess it would depend on two things:
> 1.  What kind of trimmings you're talking about, and
> 2.  Whether or not linen trimmings are authentic for your time period (and
> whether or not you care, too, come to think of it).
>
> In the meantime, I'm sticking my tongue out at you, across all of the
> continent and an ocean or two, in pure envy.  I'd roll over and play dead
> for linen that fine!
>
> --Sue, in Montana, where it's really, really cold and she wishes like the
> dickens that she could just stay home and be cozy instead of venturing out
> into sub-zero (farenheit) temps and going to work.....
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:56 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] linnen kammerdug
>
>
>> Hi,
>> Sorry i keep on with this subjekt, i managed to get the fine linnen from
> my
>> old embroidery shop.
>> The linnen is very very fine and transparent, and i wondered could i use
>> this for trimmings two on gowns, in stead of silk gauge?
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Walking Art,
	" at the Italian Cultural Institute - chopines
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>"Round-heeled" reported a similar phenomenon but due to excessive
>walking on the job--i.e., street-walker. This is a similar
>"understanding" of mine....
>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner

I've always thought "round-heeled" was aimed more at the "easy to push
over" in the sexually available sense... not so much streetwalker as
er, um... "amateur enthusiast".

And in reference to the "Walking Art" exhibit article the photo
caption says "These 12-inch-high chopines are reproductions of a style
worn by Venetian women in the 16th century."  Well, pooh-pooh!  I've
never seen chopines that look like that.  The ones that are laced have
double rows of eyes and they dont have tongues like modern shoes. I
dont know of any with a heel cap. The ones that are closed toed are
usually mules. Most are open-toed. This is a modern shoe on a 16th-ISH
platform. It appears to be suede which is not a 16th leather
treatment. And as for the 16th c & Italy as the origin of chopines
here are clear references to Spanish chopines in the 15th c; you can
find one priest's c1485 diatribe  against them in Ruth Matilda
Anderson's book, Hispanic Dress.

What these 21st century chopines are is amusing; they are a
beautifully crafted homage to 16th style, but not a "reproduction".

I will now go console my double-laced, open-toed, velvet & tasseled
reproduction chopines and tell them how wonderful they truly are and
if I get to DC this winter, I will go have a look at the exhibit.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 19:56:04 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen kammerdug/gauze trim
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At 19:14 29/11/2006, you wrote:
>Dear Sue,
>When i was in Sweden last visiting a friend who also reenacts, i 
>helped her with a gown she is making. She wanted scalloped sleave 
>ruffles, and i tryed to use the fray check to the edges.
>I didnt like it, because it dyes the edge darker than the original 
>collour of the silk.
>The trim i have in mind is just a strip of material pleated and 
>sewed 1/3 from the edge, about 2 inches wide.
>I think i want to stick to Suzis advise in using organza, more easy 
>to work with.
>Its a trimming i have made before some years ago i made the blue 
>dress with chenille embroidery:
>  http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/kostumer6.htm
>I used my hem seamer from the machine, and it didnt look that bad. 
>Only 1-2 mm. wide.
>The trim is for the anglaise dress i make right now, as you can see 
>of the drawing, i am going to add a little pleated trim to the skirts.
>And speaking of the anglaise dress, i changed the corset front and 
>the result is much better, just finnished the boning with 84 bones 
>alone in the front piece!
>I took off some of the sides at the armhole, and then i changed the 
>angle of the center front, where i took in a little center front, 
>and also changed the bone angles to vertical in the front.
>Much better.


Bjarne

The trim on that blue dress  is very pretty  - I think it is a very 
period trim. I don't like fraycheck either. I have some gum arabic 
powder to try,  (what was used to stop fraying originally,  but never 
seem to have the time to experiment!!

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linnen kammerdug
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>Sorry i keep on with this subjekt, i managed to get the fine linnen
>from my old embroidery shop.
>The linnen is very very fine and transparent, and i wondered could i
>use this for trimmings two on gowns, in stead of silk gauge?


     The perfect use would be caps, neck-handkerchiefs, engegantes and
perhaps a dressy apron.  White embroidery would look nice on it.

     Also ruffles on caps or the sleeves & necklines of shifts were
sometimes made of a finer fabric than the rest of the garment.

     Since the hems of ruffles are seen, they should be hand-stitched.  I
don't think anyone has seen the selvedge edge of a fabric used for a
ruffle edge.

     -Carol

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls
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It seems to be that the women are wearing wheel farthingales, not bumrolls
alone.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls


>
> Following up my own post (below): Here's one of the images:
>
> http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/photo_ME0000057470.html
>
> The presence of rolls is very clear, particularly on the woman in the
> right foreground, but on some others as well.
>
> It does seem to be at the Louvre, as I was remembering. I probably have
> some photos of it and its mate, but I haven't gotten around to indexing
> all of the 500 or so slides I took in Paris ... a few years ago ... yeesh,
> I will never get them all straight.
>
> --Robin
>
Aha! I found another 
http://homepage.mac.com/muzette/Eng.File/Art/Gallery_pages/Gallery_bal.html 
it's not that big but this is the one I was thinking of.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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----- Forwarded message from wymarc@comcast.net -----
     Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 12:53:01 -0500
     From: Richard Wymarc <wymarc@comcast.net>
Reply-To: 13thCentGarb@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [13thCentGarb] V&A to scrap academic reproduction fees
       To: AtlantianLaurels@yahoogroups.com, 13thCentGarb@yahoogroups.com

V&A to scrap academic reproduction fees


By Martin Bailey | Posted 30 November 2006

london. In a move which could transform art publishing, the Victoria  
and Albert Museum in London (V&A) is to drop charges for the  
reproduction of images in scholarly books and magazines. Reproduction  
costs now often make it difficult to publish specialist art historical  
material. The new scheme will come into effect early next year.

The V&A is believed to be the first museum anywhere in the world which  
is to offer images free of copyright and administrative charges. It  
also intends to take a "liberal" view on what should be deemed  
scholarly or educational. The new arrangements will normally apply to  
all books published by university presses. Free images will also be  
available for exhibition catalogues and journals such as Apollo and  
The Burlington.

Reproduction fees currently bring in just over £250,000 a year for the  
V&A, and it is estimated that around half this sum will be lost.  
However, administering the system eats into the profits, so the real  
loss is much less. Under the new scheme, publishers will be able to  
download images directly from the internet. Commercial publications  
will continue to be charged.

The V&A feels that it is important that readers see images of items in  
the collection, helping to fulfil its educational role and raise its  
profile internationally. Images of 25,000 objects in the V&A will be  
available.

The decision to end charging could well have major implications on art  
publishing since there will be pressure on other UK museums to follow  
suit.

http://www.theartnewspaper.com/article01.asp?id=525

----------------------------------------------------------------
Master Richard Wymarc
mka Timothy J. Mitchell

"I have offended God and mankind because my work didn't reach the  
quality it should have."
--Leonardo da Vinci

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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----- End forwarded message -----


-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's
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Greetings everyone!

I'm popping out of lurkdom after Worldcon and Loscon to ask for help while setting up another group set of costumes for next year's Friday Night Fun.  Wonder of wonders, they are pulling me out of medieval era clothing/costume and into making more early-to-mid 20th century stuff.

The theme is "Mod" as in the mid 1960's.  My tighter focus, at least in theory, is going to be closer to the items worn by Diana Riggs in the Avengers, or one of the other similar designers, but I am also finding interesting comments about a couple of other designers.  I'll share a few of the ones I don't want for myself with some of the other folks doing the theme who haven't chosen yet as well.

So my request is help in finding photos of garments made by John Bates (Jean Varon), Andre Courneges, or Paco Rabanne.  I'll be trying to determine a fiber which I can easily wear, as most of the polyester I remember from that time (since I was well, very young then) makes me break out in serious cases of the itchies now.  

My husband's first vote is for the immediately identifiable first season Emma Peel leather catsuit, but I want to see a few other ideas before I make up my mind. (*grin*)

Then to find a nice pair of 1940's patterns for me- one for day and one for evening!

Thank you,

Jonnalyhn Wolfcat aka Angharat


 
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Subject: [h-cost] Madame de Canaples by Jean Clouet--need better image 
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Does anyone have a larger/higher resolution version of this painting?
http://nationalgalleries.org/collections/artist_search.php?objectId=4764

I'm especially interested in the sleeves, but also the neckline and the headwear.  

-E House
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Subject: [h-cost] Stranded Silk Floss
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I am trying to sort out what colours to stock most of when I finally start ordering in floss stock from Eterna Silks - I plan on selling their line of stranded silk, and as demand sees fit, others in time. I thought originally to find a bunch of embroidery books and use them as my references (I plan on making up floss packs that one can buy a range of colours for a group price) but realised that if I compared to extant, I will be getting today's colours, which could be faded or otherwise altered by time. If people are wanting these flosses for reproduction work, they want it to look how it did when it was new. 
Does anyone out there have a decent book or two I can use as reference for colouring relative to historical dying of silk? I'd like to for example, have a pack for Norse, Tudor, Elizabethan, Byzantine, Heraldic, etc that covers the general colour tones one would expect to find in such periods and cultures. I have 575 colours to choose from, and as much as I would like to buy one of everything and just go to town, it's not a practical approach to efficient stocking.
I'm hoping to get some stock in and at least try to get a bit of Christmas rush covered, but this issue is kind of hanging me up.

On the topic of Kammerdug (which I did a little searching and it translates to lawn), I can get linen as fine as that here in North America, and if anyone wants it, I'll gather an order. The merchant that Kimiko mentioned I am betting is buying from the same company as I do, however theirs is the narrower Czech - nothing wrong with it, just a middle-high end grade. I have bolts of both and can compare. I have been getting the museum quality Belgian cambric from them, and it is so fine and lovely that angels fear to touch it. It's pricey, but oh-so-worth it. I can't afford to stock this item, I just act as the clearing house for gathered orders. They require a minimum purchase.

Thanks

Kathy
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131



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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 12:49:35 -0800 (PST)
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you for the reminder Dawn!  I've been working on some embroidery stuff for mine, and have a purple package from SaraGrace already (arrived on the 23rd) sitting on my bookshelf helping my roommates taunt my curiousity.  *grin*

Jonnalyhn Wolfcat/ Angharat

----- Original Message ----
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 9:32:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange


Good morning,

I just wanted to remind folks who are participating that your mailing 
deadline is December 8th. That's 10 days from now. :)

If you've lost your giftee's address, please email me privately.


Dawn




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