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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Romanesque costume
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Status: RO


On Wed, 31 Jan 2007, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> I am considering ordering a photocopy of
> 
> Romanesque-Byzantine Elements in French and English Dress 1050-1180 by
> Jennifer Harris. Univ. Manchester Ph.D Thesis (1977)
> 
> Has anyone seen/read this Thesis?

I haven't seen the thesis and can't speak to it, but Jennifer Harris had
an excellent article on 12th-century clothing in a collection of essays
edited by my colleague Gale Owen-Crocker a few years ago.

(rustle, rustle) Here it is:

Jennifer Harris, "Estroit vestu et menu cosu": Evidence for the
construction of twelfth-century dress," in _Medieval Art: R4ecent
Perspectives: A memorial tribute to C. R. Dodwell_, ed. Gale R.
Owen-Crocker and Timothy Graham (Manchester University Press, 1998).

ILL *that* book. You'll get a good idea of Harris's outlook from that, and
then you can decide whether to plunk down the bucks to get the thesis. (My
general feeling is that while I disagree with a few of her
interpretations, it is a well-researched article that brings together a
lot of hard-to-find evidence in a refreshingly coherent fashion.)

Based on the title of the thesis, I wonder if the article I mention above
wouldn't be much more in line with your interests anyway!

--Robin


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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <Ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Seminar in the Kansas City Area
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Status: RO

For those in the KC area that might be interested this weekend:

http://www2.kumc.edu/itc/staff/rknight/cs.htm 

Catherine
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Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2007 13:48:52 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Romanesque costume
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Status: RO

Thanks Robin,

I have that article on my list!

Beth

>Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 08:18:07 -0600 (CST)
>From: Robin Netherton
>
>I haven't seen the thesis and can't speak to it, but Jennifer Harris had
>an excellent article on 12th-century clothing in a collection of essays
>edited by my colleague Gale Owen-Crocker a few years ago.
>
>(rustle, rustle) Here it is:
>
>Jennifer Harris, "Estroit vestu et menu cosu": Evidence for the
>construction of twelfth-century dress," in _Medieval Art: R4ecent
>Perspectives: A memorial tribute to C. R. Dodwell_, ed. Gale R.
>Owen-Crocker and Timothy Graham (Manchester University Press, 1998).
>
>ILL *that* book. You'll get a good idea of Harris's outlook from that, and
>then you can decide whether to plunk down the bucks to get the thesis. (My
>general feeling is that while I disagree with a few of her
>interpretations, it is a well-researched article that brings together a
>lot of hard-to-find evidence in a refreshingly coherent fashion.)
>
>Based on the title of the thesis, I wonder if the article I mention above
>wouldn't be much more in line with your interests anyway!
>
>--Robin

_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Silk thread - best knot to tie off?
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Status: RO

Hi - I am using YLI silk floss to make a wired head piece made from silk 
organza. I am having  a hard time keeping a knot tied.  I am waxing the 
thread and have tried several methods.  Any suggestions?

Thanks, Sg


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Subject: [h-cost] Cool picture
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Status: RO

Not sure where my brain was, but I was recently asked for the artist who 
painted the painting of the gown I am reconstructing for the Phoenix Art 
Museum.  Having lost the information, I again asked the museum for the name 
of the artist.  All along I thought it was attributed to someone, but not 
known for sure.  I guess I remembered incorrectly.  The artist is Nicolaes 
Eliasz. Pickenoy.  Armed with this new information I did a search on 
artcyclopedia.  Anyway....
The Detroit Institute of Art has one of his paintings and are utilizing 
Flash Zoom....boy is it great.

Being able to see this picture up close helped me immensly on the 
construction of the headpiece I am trying to make....thought you might enjoy 
it and maybe find other pics at the Institute helpful.

http://www.dia.org/the_collection/overview/viewobject.asp?objectid=44420

Sg


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Subject: [h-cost] Cool picture and best knot to tie off?
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Status: RO


Really cool painting...


>Being able to see this picture up close helped me immensly on the 
>construction of the headpiece I am trying to make....thought you 
>might enjoy it and maybe find other pics at the Institute helpful.
>
>http://www.dia.org/the_collection/overview/viewobject.asp?objectid=44420
>
>Sg

So, are you using the silk for the embroidery part?  One of the 
things I have found with silk, from the Chinese, is that they sew a 
tiny x with the silk floss, and then run the needle under the x and 
tighten it slightly to knot the end.  To start, they sew the x over 
the tail of the silk thread.  I usually cover my knots with 
subsequent embroidery.  This pattern seems to be more open, so that 
might not be possible, but it's how I get my silk to never work free.

If that doesn't make sense, I'll try to find some pictures of what 
I'm talking about.

Good luck
Genie 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk thread - best knot to tie off?
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Status: RO

At 04:49 PM 2/1/2007, you wrote:
>Hi - I am using YLI silk floss to make a wired head piece made from 
>silk organza. I am having  a hard time keeping a knot tied.  I am 
>waxing the thread and have tried several methods.  Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks, Sg

I use the same method for all my hand-stitching: Holbein 
double-running stitching for the beginning and ending 1/2 inch or 
so.  I don't trust knots.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] FW: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 22:21:06 -0800
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Status: RO

I want one. How can I reserve it? I tried to contact Polistampa, (in
Italian) but I don't know if the email got to them. At least, I haven't
heard from them since I sent it a week ago.
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wanda Pease
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 8:18 PM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] FW: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint


e-mail message from POLISTAMPA
-----Original Message-----
From: promo@polistampa.com [mailto:promo@polistampa.com]
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 3:51 AM
To: promo@polistampa.com
Subject: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'


P O L I S T A M P A


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
      Via Santa Maria 27/r ¡¤ 50125 Firenze
      Tel. 055 2337702 - fax info/ufficio stampa 055 229430
      E-mail: info@polistampa.com Via Livorno 8/31 ¡¤ 50142 Firenze
      Tel. 055 7326272 - fax ammin./magazz. 055 7377428
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----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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      Gentile Cliente,
      siamo lieti di informarLa che nel prossimo mese di marzo sar¨¤
ristampato uno dei pi¨´ pregiati volumi editi da Polistampa: < A
href="http://www.polistampa.com//asp/sl.asp?id=3653" target=blank>Moda a
Firenze 1540-1580. Frutto della lunga e accurata ricerca di due note
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colori, tradotto in un ottimo inglese, questo grande volume ha riscosso
molto successo in Italia e all'estero. Esaurito da due mesi, sar¨¤
ristampato
in marzo per essere in libreria ad aprile 2007. Pu¨° prenotare il libro gi¨¤
da adesso con lo sconto del 20%.

      Cordiali saluti,

            Antonio Pagliai
            Ufficio Promozione POLISTAMPA
            promo@polistampa.com









            Sconto 20%


            Stampa ottimizzata
              Bruna Niccoli / Roberta Orsi Landini

            Moda a Firenze 1540-1580
            Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza



            II edizione / II edition

            In reprint, available only from April 2007
            You can book it with 20% discount

            Italian-English texts, including: Eleonora di Toledo Duchess of
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            Firenze, 1539: l'arrivo di Eleonora da Toledo, figlia del vicer
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            Rassegna stampa:
            Eleonora Style (Maria Novella Batini, ?Toscana Qui?)
            Alla moda di Eleonora (Elettra Gull¨¨, ?Toscana Tascabile?)
            Firenze nel '500
            La moda secondo Eleonora (Silvia Gigli, ?Informatore?)
            Moda a Firenze, lo stile di Eleonora (Rebecca Romoli, ?Toscan a
Oggi?)
            Il volume Moda a Firenze 1540-1580 dell'editore Polistampa: uno
spaccato nella moda e nel costume italiani (senza firma, ?MarketPress?)
            Lettera da Firenze (Pier Francesco Listri, ?Il Giornale?)
            Eleonora di Toledo. Un libro ricostruisce l'abbigliamento e lo
stile della moglie di Cosimo I (Domenico Del Nero, ?Il Giornale?)
            La 'zampata' di Eleonora di Toledo, graduchessa di Toscana
(Sandra Salvato, ?La Nazione?)
            Un libro su Eleonora di Toledo, l'aristocratica che fece moda
(Alessandro Guasti, ?Metropoli?)
            Zeppe e pantaloni alla pescatora di una stilista del Cinquecento
(Letizia Cini, ?La Nazione?)
            Calzoni al ginocchio e scarpe con la zeppa, la moda del XVI
secolo a Firenze (senza firma, ?Adnkronos?)
            La moda del ¡¯500 attraverso lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo
(senza firma, ?Nove da Firenze?)

            Eventi correlati:
                 Presentazione del libro
                  Moda a Firenze 1540-1580
                 Moda a Firenze
                  1540-1580

                  Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza



      Qualora desiderasse non ricevere pi¨´ informazioni editoriali o altra
posta dalla ns. Casa Editrice,
      ¨¨ sufficiente che risponda a questo messaggio inserendo la parola
RIMUOVI in ¡®oggetto¡¯.
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cool picture
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 22:26:10 -0800
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Status: RO

Oh my gosh! Under close magnification, it looks like her headpiece is made
like a French hood, but the brim is of very sheer material. Is that correct?
It's great, though. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 5:09 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com; TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] Cool picture


Not sure where my brain was, but I was recently asked for the artist who 
painted the painting of the gown I am reconstructing for the Phoenix Art 
Museum.  Having lost the information, I again asked the museum for the name 
of the artist.  All along I thought it was attributed to someone, but not 
known for sure.  I guess I remembered incorrectly.  The artist is Nicolaes 
Eliasz. Pickenoy.  Armed with this new information I did a search on 
artcyclopedia.  Anyway....
The Detroit Institute of Art has one of his paintings and are utilizing 
Flash Zoom....boy is it great.

Being able to see this picture up close helped me immensly on the 
construction of the headpiece I am trying to make....thought you might enjoy

it and maybe find other pics at the Institute helpful.

http://www.dia.org/the_collection/overview/viewobject.asp?objectid=44420

Sg


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] FW: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 23:26:37 -0800
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Status: RO

I think we are going to have a better way of getting this book.  David Brown
books contacted me because I suggested THEY carry it.  That way they can do
all the work of getting it, pricing it (looks like about $99.50 but don't
quote me yet) and making it available.  They speak English, they do mail
order all the time; they take plastic.  I've even known them to make a deal
where you pay in installments!

If there was ever a book that those who love the Italian Renaissance either
in costuming or in history (or both).  You NEED this book!

Stay tuned to this Group for further developments!

Regina Romsey

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On Behalf Of Sharon Collier
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 10:21 PM
> To: 'Historical Costume'
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] FW: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint
>
>
> I want one. How can I reserve it? I tried to contact Polistampa, (in
> Italian) but I don't know if the email got to them. At least, I haven't
> heard from them since I sent it a week ago.
> Sharon C.
>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Festive Attyre
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Status: RO

I tried to find an email address but can't seem to find one.
Could someone let the owner of Festive Attyre know that she needs a spelling
correction with the Italian working class file. The artist is Vincenzo
Campi, Vicenzo Campi.

Thank you,
De



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Festive Attyre
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Status: RO

At 08:12 02/02/2007, you wrote:
>I tried to find an email address but can't seem to find one.
>Could someone let the owner of Festive Attyre know that she needs a spelling
>correction with the Italian working class file. The artist is Vincenzo
>Campi, Vicenzo Campi.
>
>Thank you,
>De

That's done.

Suzi 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Festive Attyre
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2007 04:30:59 -0600
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Status: RO

Thank you.
De

-----Original Message-----

That's done.

Suzi 



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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2007 21:34:32 +1100
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Subject: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design
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Status: RO

Simplicity has just released a new mid 1850s pattern 
http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=3855 (Simplicity calls it 'Civil 
War' but it's clearly a fashionable 1850s style) I'm not questioning the 
design (the basic design looks good though the one in the photo doesn't seem 
to fit the model all that well, but it wouldn't be the first time a good 
dress was let down by photographers who didn't know what it was supposed to 
look like) but I was wondering if anybody has heard of the designer, Deborah 
Woodbridge? just for curiosity's sake as given the 'museum curator' tag it 
looks like they plan to make this part of another set relying on the good 
reputation of a particular designer to counteract the fact that it's a big 3 
pattern and most major commercial patterns should be avoided if you want 
accuracy.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Status: RO

I'm not
> questioning the design (the basic design looks good though the one in 
> the photo doesn't seem to fit the model all that well, 

I'd say the skirt's too big, but other than that I like it.  I'd use 
that bodice and sleeves, add a peplum, and call it a jacket.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Festive Attyre
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Status: RO

At 10:30 02/02/2007, you wrote:
>Thank you.
>De
>
>-----Original Message-----


Had a message back that she has checked the spelling and it is 
correct as written on her web site. It may be that there are other 
spellings? I don't want to get involved - I am only the messenger. 
There is  an e-mail on her site, I am sure.

Suzi

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Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2007 06:49:52 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] FW: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'
  	Reprint
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Status: RO

David Brown http://www.oxbowbooks.com/ is very good to deal with, but so is 
Michael Shamansky http://www.artbooks.com/  Speaking of which, has anyone seen:

Dalla testa ai piedi. Costume e moda in età gotica. Atti del Convegno di 
Studi, Trento, (From head to foot. Custom and fashion in the Gothc Age.) 
7-8 ottobre 2002 edited by Laura Dal Pra and Paolo Peri. ISBN: 8877021659 
Price: $82.50 Shamansky
Description: Trento: Provincia Autonoma di Trento, 2006. 28cm., pbk., 
622pp. prof. illus., most in color. Papers from the symposium held on the 
occasion of the exhibition "Il Gotico nelle Alpi". (Beni Artistici e 
Storici del Trentino, Quaderni, 12)

Beth

At 06:04 AM 2/2/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 23:26:37 -0800
>From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
>
>I think we are going to have a better way of getting this book.  David Brown
>books contacted me because I suggested THEY carry it.  That way they can do
>all the work of getting it, pricing it (looks like about $99.50 but don't
>quote me yet) and making it available.  They speak English, they do mail
>order all the time; they take plastic.  I've even known them to make a deal
>where you pay in installments!
>
>If there was ever a book that those who love the Italian Renaissance either
>in costuming or in history (or both).  You NEED this book!
>
>Stay tuned to this Group for further developments!
>
>Regina Romsey


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Subject: [h-cost] Headpiece Construction was: Cool picture
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Status: RO

I've never studied the French Hood in detail. These all look like little 
stacked wedding cakes to me.  The PAM picture only has the front band and 
then what looks like one little can with a lid on it.  The front band isn't 
as wide.

I am going to make the lace in front attached to a little cap, over which 
the front band is set.  I think I am going to make the back gathered into a 
hole through which her hair is pulled and then pin the can into her hair. 
This works great on my head block, but I can't use T pins on the live model, 
darn it!

The sheer part is pretty straight forward - I am glad in this picture you 
are able to see the "bump" in the center indicating wire running straight to 
the back. It is very visible in many other pictures. I can't see this in the 
PAM gown, but was unable to get the silk organza to lie smoothly without it. 
I've made this as a separate wired piece as there are other pictures showing 
it worn alone, but will probably sew it on the band to keep it in place.

How they kept this all so clean and precise I don't know.  I am using 
stainless steel welding rod for wire - I assume they had no way to 
completely prevent rust. I know there is evidence that they wrapped thread 
around the wire - That took way too long and they don't make a millinery 
wire this stiff....so I used floral tape!

There are some pictures with a slightly different style where everything is 
kinda' crumpled up.  The wires are bent - etc.  Its hard to imagine them not 
getting that way pretty quick!

Thanks for your interest.

Saragrace


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 11:26 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cool picture


> Oh my gosh! Under close magnification, it looks like her headpiece is made
> like a French hood, but the brim is of very sheer material. Is that 
> correct?
> It's great, though.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 5:09 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com; TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Cool picture
>
>

>
> http://www.dia.org/the_collection/overview/viewobject.asp?objectid=44420
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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	<7.0.1.0.2.20070201181045.0276ae88@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk thread - best knot to tie off?
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Status: RO

Had to look up the Holbein Double running stitch, but now I see what it is. 
Also I think I understand Genie's suggestion.  I'll try both.  I was 
planning on using it to stitch all the folds in the ruff as well - hopefully 
the little x's will work there - everything I've tried, has worked itself 
loose.

Thanks,

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 7:14 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk thread - best knot to tie off?


> I use the same method for all my hand-stitching: Holbein
> double-running stitching for the beginning and ending 1/2 inch or
> so.  I don't trust knots.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
>
So, are you using the silk for the embroidery part?  One of the
things I have found with silk, from the Chinese, is that they sew a
tiny x with the silk floss, and then run the needle under the x and
tighten it slightly to knot the end.  To start, they sew the x over
the tail of the silk thread.  I usually cover my knots with
subsequent embroidery.  This pattern seems to be more open, so that
might not be possible, but it's how I get my silk to never work free.

If that doesn't make sense, I'll try to find some pictures of what
I'm talking about.

Good luck
Genie 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint
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Status: RO

I think we are going to have a better way of getting this book.  David
Brown
books contacted me because I suggested THEY carry it.  That way they
can do
all the work of getting it, pricing it (looks like about $99.50 but
don't
quote me yet) and making it available.  They speak English, they do
mail
order all the time; they take plastic.  I've even known them to make a
deal
where you pay in installments!

If there was ever a book that those who love the Italian Renaissance
either
in costuming or in history (or both).  You NEED this book!

Stay tuned to this Group for further developments!

Regina Romsey
****************************************
Michael Shamansky will also be carrying it.  He told me he has
contracted for half the edition.  Current price is $99.99 but he admits
that could change depending on exchange rates and shipping but he will
be trying to keep it as low as possible.  Contact information for him
is:

Michael Shamansky, Bookseller Inc
P.O. Box 3904
Kingston, New York 12402

Telephone:  1-800-527-6775  (845 331 8519)
Fax:  845-331-0852

Email: mshamans@artbooks.com 
Url:  www.artbooks.com 

Catherine
who has really regretted not having gotten this book earlier and has a
copy on order.  Come on April!!

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design
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Status: RO

12 yards @45" for the dress? 12 yards????
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Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2007 10:47:39 -0600
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] fabric sale
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Status: RO

Most of you are probably already on the Joann's mailing list, but for 
those who aren't, here's an opportunity to sign up and receive the 50% 
off coupons for this weekend's sale.

http://www.joann-mail.com/J0508y1f/coupon_forward.html?r=0553899147&i=J0508y1f10

They will email you a couple times a month with sale information and 
coupons, but they do not share your information with anyone else. It's 
easy to get off their list if you want to.


Dawn


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cool picture
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Status: RO

That is amazing.
Did you notice that when you zoom in at the headpiece, you can see that the 
wire was attached with heavy buttonholestitches.

Thanks for showing us

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 2:09 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Cool picture


> Not sure where my brain was, but I was recently asked for the artist who 
> painted the painting of the gown I am reconstructing for the Phoenix Art 
> Museum.  Having lost the information, I again asked the museum for the 
> name of the artist.  All along I thought it was attributed to someone, but 
> not known for sure.  I guess I remembered incorrectly.  The artist is 
> Nicolaes Eliasz. Pickenoy.  Armed with this new information I did a search 
> on artcyclopedia.  Anyway....
> The Detroit Institute of Art has one of his paintings and are utilizing 
> Flash Zoom....boy is it great.
>
> Being able to see this picture up close helped me immensly on the 
> construction of the headpiece I am trying to make....thought you might 
> enjoy it and maybe find other pics at the Institute helpful.
>
> http://www.dia.org/the_collection/overview/viewobject.asp?objectid=44420
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cool picture
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 2/2/2007 1:33:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Did you  notice that when you zoom in at the headpiece, you can see that the 
wire  was attached with heavy buttonholestitches.



****************
 
Beautiful!
 
 
I'm just now looking at this masterpiece. Have we discussed the black poofs  
on the sleeves? I don't think I've ever seen such a treatment in black.
 
 
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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cool picture
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Status: RO

You & Bjarne must have great eyes!  Are you talking about around the outer 
edge of the sheer part?

I have to say, I am not sure I had seen the treatment in black either.  I 
strongly wonder if the PAM pick sitter isn't part of this family, or rented 
her costume from the same provider.  There are some distinct similarities in 
the gowns (the black puffs for example), jewelry and lace.

Sg
----- Original Message ----- 


> Beautiful!

> I'm just now looking at this masterpiece. Have we discussed the black 
> poofs
> on the sleeves? I don't think I've ever seen such a treatment in black. 

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From: slc_fire <slc_fire@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cool picture
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Painters of that period were known to carry their own sitting garb and armor.  I found it absolutely fascinating to walk around the Louvre and see how many subjects I could find in the same cloths from the same artist! Very fun.  There was one artist in particular (and I can't remember his name) that I found 6 men/boys in the same armor and 3 women in the same dress. 

  Cheers,
  Sheree
   
  
Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
  I have to say, I am not sure I had seen the treatment in black either. I 
strongly wonder if the PAM pick sitter isn't part of this family, or rented 
her costume from the same provider. There are some distinct similarities in 
the gowns (the black puffs for example), jewelry and lace.

Sg
----- Original Message ----- 


> Beautiful!

> I'm just now looking at this masterpiece. Have we discussed the black 
> poofs
> on the sleeves? I don't think I've ever seen such a treatment in black. 

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Status: RO

Understand the messenger part. The Artcyclodedia and  museum websites have
the Vincenzo spelling which is why I thought it was wrong on hers. :P
De

-----Original Message-----
Had a message back that she has checked the spelling and it is
correct as written on her web site. It may be that there are other
spellings? I don't want to get involved - I am only the messenger.
There is  an e-mail on her site, I am sure.

Suzi


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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Headpiece Construction was: Cool picture
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2007 13:47:13 -0800
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Status: RO

Try wrapping the wire in bias tape or strips..Then coat with glue. Or just
coat the wire with glue or paint. Latex is stretchy enough so you can still
bend the wire.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 5:50 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Headpiece Construction was: Cool picture


I've never studied the French Hood in detail. These all look like little 
stacked wedding cakes to me.  The PAM picture only has the front band and 
then what looks like one little can with a lid on it.  The front band isn't 
as wide.

I am going to make the lace in front attached to a little cap, over which 
the front band is set.  I think I am going to make the back gathered into a 
hole through which her hair is pulled and then pin the can into her hair. 
This works great on my head block, but I can't use T pins on the live model,

darn it!

The sheer part is pretty straight forward - I am glad in this picture you 
are able to see the "bump" in the center indicating wire running straight to

the back. It is very visible in many other pictures. I can't see this in the

PAM gown, but was unable to get the silk organza to lie smoothly without it.

I've made this as a separate wired piece as there are other pictures showing

it worn alone, but will probably sew it on the band to keep it in place.

How they kept this all so clean and precise I don't know.  I am using 
stainless steel welding rod for wire - I assume they had no way to 
completely prevent rust. I know there is evidence that they wrapped thread 
around the wire - That took way too long and they don't make a millinery 
wire this stiff....so I used floral tape!

There are some pictures with a slightly different style where everything is 
kinda' crumpled up.  The wires are bent - etc.  Its hard to imagine them not

getting that way pretty quick!

Thanks for your interest.

Saragrace


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 11:26 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cool picture


> Oh my gosh! Under close magnification, it looks like her headpiece is made
> like a French hood, but the brim is of very sheer material. Is that 
> correct?
> It's great, though.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 5:09 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com; TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Cool picture
>
>

>
> http://www.dia.org/the_collection/overview/viewobject.asp?objectid=44420
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 11:47:52 +1100
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Status: RO

Hmm, I think this is just another case of Simplicity overestimating the 
yardage required and not making most efficient use of fabric, compare it to 
this pattern http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4510 and the 
yardage isn't that much different (1/8 yd more but 4510 has ruffles and a 
closed neckline)
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 2:26 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design


> 12 yards @45" for the dress? 12 yards????

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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2007 19:18:57 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Feb 2, 2007, at 7:26 AM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 12 yards @45" for the dress? 12 yards????

It's plaid.

It's all matched.

All the horizontals match (roughly).

Cutting it is going to be wasteful.

--  
andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/
San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R  
(Kevin's)
...remaining .sig trimmed for better message/.sig ratio

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design
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In a message dated 2/2/2007 10:20:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
attrembl@bovil.com writes:

It's  plaid.

It's all matched.

All the horizontals match  (roughly).

Cutting it is going to be  wasteful.



****************
 
 
I can see that! It still wouldn't take me 12 yards. [and that was the  
yardage for plain ol' fabric, not plaids or one way designs or naps, as far  as I 
can see] Perhaps the skirt is 4 or 5 panels instead of just 3, which of  course 
is nearly 4 yards at the hem and plenty.
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2007 21:34:32 +1100
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
Subject: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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reply-type=original

Simplicity has just released a new mid 1850s pattern
http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=3855 (Simplicity calls it 'Civil
War' but it's clearly a fashionable 1850s style) I'm not questioning the
design (the basic design looks good though the one in the photo doesn't seem
to fit the model all that well, but it wouldn't be the first time a good
dress was let down by photographers who didn't know what it was supposed to
look like) but I was wondering if anybody has heard of the designer, Deborah
Woodbridge? just for curiosity's sake as given the 'museum curator' tag it
looks like they plan to make this part of another set relying on the good
reputation of a particular designer to counteract the fact that it's a big 3
pattern and most major commercial patterns should be avoided if you want
accuracy.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/



------------------------------

Message: 14
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2007 04:05:30 -0800
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: -   [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <45C3290A.1070601@frys.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I'm not
> questioning the design (the basic design looks good though the one in
> the photo doesn't seem to fit the model all that well,

I'd say the skirt's too big, but other than that I like it.  I'd use
that bodice and sleeves, add a peplum, and call it a jacket.


Is it just me or does the back of the dress on the packet look like it was
cut out of crumpled material? Perhaps the model is too small for the
dress?

Claire 

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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<D2D4252E-2F5E-4FDA-AAB3-3FDB9AB0DCBF@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 09:10:24 -0400
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Status: RO

Why would you worry so much about matching the plaid?  I could see it in the 
back seams of the bodice and the centre front...but for the skirt?  Yes, it 
seems like an awful waste of fabric.

Kelly


> On Feb 2, 2007, at 7:26 AM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>> 12 yards @45" for the dress? 12 yards????
>
> It's plaid.
>
> It's all matched.
>
> All the horizontals match (roughly).
>
> Cutting it is going to be wasteful.
>
> --  andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/
> San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R  (Kevin's)
> ...remaining .sig trimmed for better message/.sig ratio
>
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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <002f01c74713$b2f32b60$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Headpiece Construction was: Cool picture
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 09:30:51 -0500
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Status: RO

Don't forget florist tape...white or green for covering wire.  I am not sure 
that lampshade crafters use this or another specialty tape.  Great stuff.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 4:47 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Headpiece Construction was: Cool picture


> Try wrapping the wire in bias tape or strips..Then coat with glue. Or just
> coat the wire with glue or paint. Latex is stretchy enough so you can 
> still
> bend the wire.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
> Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 5:50 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Headpiece Construction was: Cool picture
>
>
> I've never studied the French Hood in detail. These all look like little
> stacked wedding cakes to me.  The PAM picture only has the front band and
> then what looks like one little can with a lid on it.  The front band 
> isn't
> as wide.
>
> I am going to make the lace in front attached to a little cap, over which
> the front band is set.  I think I am going to make the back gathered into 
> a
> hole through which her hair is pulled and then pin the can into her hair.
> This works great on my head block, but I can't use T pins on the live 
> model,
>
> darn it!
>
> The sheer part is pretty straight forward - I am glad in this picture you
> are able to see the "bump" in the center indicating wire running straight 
> to
>
> the back. It is very visible in many other pictures. I can't see this in 
> the
>
> PAM gown, but was unable to get the silk organza to lie smoothly without 
> it.
>
> I've made this as a separate wired piece as there are other pictures 
> showing
>
> it worn alone, but will probably sew it on the band to keep it in place.
>
> How they kept this all so clean and precise I don't know.  I am using
> stainless steel welding rod for wire - I assume they had no way to
> completely prevent rust. I know there is evidence that they wrapped thread
> around the wire - That took way too long and they don't make a millinery
> wire this stiff....so I used floral tape!
>
> There are some pictures with a slightly different style where everything 
> is
> kinda' crumpled up.  The wires are bent - etc.  Its hard to imagine them 
> not
>
> getting that way pretty quick!
>
> Thanks for your interest.
>
> Saragrace
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 11:26 PM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Cool picture
>
>
>> Oh my gosh! Under close magnification, it looks like her headpiece is 
>> made
>> like a French hood, but the brim is of very sheer material. Is that
>> correct?
>> It's great, though.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>> Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
>> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 5:09 PM
>> To: h-costume@indra.com; TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [h-cost] Cool picture
>>
>>
>
>>
>> http://www.dia.org/the_collection/overview/viewobject.asp?objectid=44420
>>
>> Sg
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] sequins and spangles
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Status: RO

I know that we have discussed this in the past but cannot remember a 
referrance or definition.  In 18th C. embroidery, what is the difference 
between spangles and sequins used for additional embellishment.  I have been 
reading the Mackenzie text for the Wade collection at Snowshill and she 
shows embroidery samples that use both in the same illustration.

I am preparing a major part of my Collection for auction and have several 
pieces of elaborate embellishment that I am trying to describe.  Also, Re 
the composition of sequins, besides gel, what might they have been formed 
from before 1930?

Can someone put me in the right direction

Kathleen 

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Status: RO

Again, after studying the descriptions in the Embroidery at Snowshill, is 
there a difference between linen rep and Bengaline as far as the weaving of 
the fabric?  Might the latter be the ribbed silk and not other ribbed 
weaving technique?

Kathleen 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequins and spangles
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Status: RO

LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:

> I know that we have discussed this in the past but cannot remember a 
> referrance or definition.  In 18th C. embroidery, what is the difference 
> between spangles and sequins used for additional embellishment.

I don't know that there is a differencr other that etymology. Sequin is 
the French/Italian derived word and Spangle is the English/Dutch derived 
word.

Unless you're using the modern useage of a sequin is cupped and spangle 
is flat.

> 

> Also, Re the composition of sequins, besides gel, what might they have 
> been formed from before 1930?

Metal foil.


Dawn

in bitterly cold Missouri

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequins and spangles
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Status: RO

Hi. The 16th and 17th C versions that I have seen up close were 
manufactured by making a circle of metal wire and hammering it flat. 
This is still the method done on some spangles from India. It also 
explains why some of the spangles on a few jackets from (IIRC) the 
Burrell collection are teardrop-shaped; they were either made that way 
or they were mis-strikes. I have made some for my wife for her 
embroidered work, and they come out remarkably like the historical ones 
I have seen.  Mike T.

LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:

> I know that we have discussed this in the past but cannot remember a 
> referrance or definition.  In 18th C. embroidery, what is the 
> difference between spangles and sequins used for additional 
> embellishment.  I have been reading the Mackenzie text for the Wade 
> collection at Snowshill and she shows embroidery samples that use both 
> in the same illustration.
>
> I am preparing a major part of my Collection for auction and have 
> several pieces of elaborate embellishment that I am trying to 
> describe.  Also, Re the composition of sequins, besides gel, what 
> might they have been formed from before 1930?
>
> Can someone put me in the right direction
>
> Kathleen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 10:45:31 -0800
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequins and spangles
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Status: RO

At 9:44 AM -0500 2/3/07, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
>I know that we have discussed this in the past but cannot remember a 
>referrance or definition.  In 18th C. embroidery, what is the 
>difference between spangles and sequins used for additional 
>embellishment.  I have been reading the Mackenzie text for the Wade 
>collection at Snowshill and she shows embroidery samples that use 
>both in the same illustration.
>
>I am preparing a major part of my Collection for auction and have 
>several pieces of elaborate embellishment that I am trying to 
>describe.  Also, Re the composition of sequins, besides gel, what 
>might they have been formed from before 1930?

Don't know whether this would help, since it's several centuries 
before your period, but there's a brief discussion of the medieval 
equivalent at:
http://claning.home.igc.org/bezants/bezants.htm
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequins and spangles
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 12:16:23 -0500
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Status: RO

This was my memory also but Althea Mackenzie specifically speaks of both 
sequins and spangles in the example for view in the Snowshill collection. 
Both  are plain to see; there is a visual difference between the sizes.  The 
spangles are plainly metal and the others look to be another substance.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequins and spangles


> LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
>
>> I know that we have discussed this in the past but cannot remember a 
>> referrance or definition.  In 18th C. embroidery, what is the difference 
>> between spangles and sequins used for additional embellishment.
>
> I don't know that there is a differencr other that etymology. Sequin is 
> the French/Italian derived word and Spangle is the English/Dutch derived 
> word.
>
> Unless you're using the modern useage of a sequin is cupped and spangle is 
> flat.
>
>>
>
>> Also, Re the composition of sequins, besides gel, what might they have 
>> been formed from before 1930?
>
> Metal foil.
>
>
> Dawn
>
> in bitterly cold Missouri
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

_______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 21:55:29 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] seaquins and spangels
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Status: RO

Seaquins and spangels are the same. Its round flat metal cirkles with a hole 
in the middle.
Most were made of silver and gold, in 18th century they started to make 
colloured ones made by silver foil wich was vernished in collours.
There also was other shaped ones, wich they called paillons in france. They 
could have more holes to stitch it to the surface with.
If you want to read more about it i recomend the book:
Art of the Embroiderer by Saint Aubin.
He was a master embroiderer to Louix XV.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sequins and spangles
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 17:27:57 -0600
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Status: RO

Bezants are not the medieval equivalent. You can find spangles in the
renaissance and I believe there are a few medieval extent examples, one
where you have bezants and spangles. I only know of the modern
differentiation of spangles and sequins but prior to I think the 1930s, both
names believe meant the same thing. Musing, I wonder, if in etymology (?)
spangled meant strewn with. Or did the Star Spangled banner mean that
spangles were used to form stars on the flag he saw?
De

-----Original Message-----
At 9:44 AM -0500 2/3/07, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
>I know that we have discussed this in the past but cannot remember a
>referrance or definition.  In 18th C. embroidery, what is the
>difference between spangles and sequins used for additional
>embellishment.  I have been reading the Mackenzie text for the Wade
>collection at Snowshill and she shows embroidery samples that use
>both in the same illustration.
>
>I am preparing a major part of my Collection for auction and have
>several pieces of elaborate embellishment that I am trying to
>describe.  Also, Re the composition of sequins, besides gel, what
>might they have been formed from before 1930?

Don't know whether this would help, since it's several centuries
before your period, but there's a brief discussion of the medieval
equivalent at:
http://claning.home.igc.org/bezants/bezants.htm
--


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Subject: [h-cost] Flag RE:  sequins and spangles
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--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> Musing, I wonder, if in etymology (?)
> spangled meant strewn with. Or did the Star Spangled
> banner mean that
> spangles were used to form stars on the flag he saw?
> De

The actual flag flying during the battle & inspiring
Mr. Key is extant, and is made of cloth.  Wool bunting
from England for stripes and union and appliqued white
cotton stars.
<http://www.si.edu/resource/Faq/nmah/starflag.htm>

There's been a major re-conservation of the flag
(1998-2005), which the Smithsonian did right behind a
big window, installed for the purpose, so visitors to
the museum could watch the conservators at work, and
see the flag.

Ann in CT


 
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Status: RO

Andrew T Trembley wrote:

> On Feb 2, 2007, at 7:26 AM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
>> 12 yards @45" for the dress? 12 yards????
> 
> 
> It's plaid.
> 
> It's all matched.
> 
> All the horizontals match (roughly).
> 
> Cutting it is going to be wasteful.
> 

After looking at it today, I noticed a few things about the way it is 
laid out. There's the usual cut panels for the skirt which are then sewn 
back together, not all that wasteful except in time. The biggies that I 
saw were in the bias cut lower sleeves and in the "skirt facing panels" 
that line the inside of the bottom half of the skirt. There's probably 
3+ yards in those panels. Also, they have you cut a bunch of pieces for 
the self ruching, rather than use scraps.

I would say that an experienced seamstress could do that dress easily on 
  8 yards of fabric, probably a few less if it wasn't matched plaid.



Dawn


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design
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Status: RO

> I would say that an experienced seamstress could do that dress easily on 
>  8 yards of fabric, probably a few less if it wasn't matched plaid.

Cut the skirt in one piece and the plaid matches itself.  Then cut all 
the other pieces that way up on the plaid, so they match too.
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 21:41:41 -0800
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Status: RO

Glad to hear that Michael Shamansky will also be carrying it.  Considering
how quickly the first edition sold out, I don't think we are going to have a
bidding war going on between the two companies.  I suspect that those I saw
looking wistfully at the last copy Pastiche had as I laid my plastic down
because I couldn't bear to see a good friend pass it up for a little thing
like she was going to England the next week and had no free cash, will be
happy to find it at either place.  So will the Book Sellers of Pennsic!

I like David Brown Book Company because their marketing director knows me by
name from all the times I have written him to point out he is an Agent of
Satan (His duties being largely ceremonial) and a pusher.  I've also had
wonderful dealings and gotten great books at prices that I could never have
afforded otherwise.

Michael Shamansky's offerings are always at full price.  I'm not putting the
company down for that!  They carry first rate books from places that I'd
never think to look.  However, I'm a born bargain shopper, and completely
helpless when it comes to foreign languages.  I've paid big bucks for books
in languages I couldn't read without a x to x dictionary if they had enough
color plates.  Still, it tickles my fancy to find something exotic at a
$9.95 price tag.

Regina Romsey
> ****************************************
> Michael Shamansky will also be carrying it.  He told me he has
> contracted for half the edition.  Current price is $99.99 but he admits
> that could change depending on exchange rates and shipping but he will
> be trying to keep it as low as possible.  Contact information for him
> is:
>
> Michael Shamansky, Bookseller Inc
> P.O. Box 3904
> Kingston, New York 12402
>
> Telephone:  1-800-527-6775  (845 331 8519)
> Fax:  845-331-0852
>
> Email: mshamans@artbooks.com
> Url:  www.artbooks.com
>
> Catherine
> who has really regretted not having gotten this book earlier and has a
> copy on order.  Come on April!!
>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Need help from someone with a scanner
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Status: RO


If anyone out there has been to my lectures, and also has a scanner and
would be willing to scan something for me, could you please e-mail me
directly?

(It's obvious when I'm working on an article. I keep interrupting the list
with frantic pleas for help finding things.)

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 2/3/2007 9:35:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kayta@frys.com writes:

Cut the  skirt in one piece and the plaid matches itself.  Then cut all 
the  other pieces that way up on the plaid, so they match  too.



*************
 
If it's an even plaid.
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Status: RO

Bjarne, have you seen this book from the Ward collection at Snowshill?  The 
illustrations of photos do not give a real explanation of spangles and 
sequins as compatable with metal discs as I have seen with Your work. This 
puzzles me.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 3:55 PM
Subject: [h-cost] seaquins and spangels


> Seaquins and spangels are the same. Its round flat metal cirkles with a 
> hole in the middle.
> Most were made of silver and gold, in 18th century they started to make 
> colloured ones made by silver foil wich was vernished in collours.
> There also was other shaped ones, wich they called paillons in france. 
> They could have more holes to stitch it to the surface with.
> If you want to read more about it i recomend the book:
> Art of the Embroiderer by Saint Aubin.
> He was a master embroiderer to Louix XV.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sequins and spangles
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	<IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPKEBIIIAA.otsisto@socket.net>
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Status: RO



Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> 03/02/2007 23:27 >>>
wrote                                    >   ... Musing, I wonder, if
in etymology (?) spangled meant strewn with. Or did the >Star Spangled
banner mean that spangles were used to form stars on the flag he saw?
>De

According to Merriam-Webster's Online Dictionary, "spangle" as a verb
means "to set or sprinkle with, or as if with, spangles"


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Subject: [h-cost] in search of fake fur
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Status: RO


Specifically, something that closely resembles ermine. I can find thicker 
stuff--if I wanted to line something with mink or fitch I'd be 
set--but I haven't been able to find something that is as low pile as 
ermine. Everything I've found is too thick and heavy.

Would a white minky fabric be what I'm looking for?

Many thanks,

/Jen

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help from someone with a scanner
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On Sun, 4 Feb 2007, Robin Netherton wrote:

> If anyone out there has been to my lectures, and also has a scanner...

I have what I need now. Many thanks to those who wrote!

--Robin

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] in search of fake fur
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 13:35:10 -0500
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Status: RO

I wish I could tell you the name of the fabric I found a couple of  
years ago when I was looking for fake ermine. You're right, all the  
fake furs are too deep-pile. My fabric guy showed me a creamy-white  
brushed fabric that close up was merely napped but from a distance of  
3 feet or more could easily pass for ermine. He's a mill-end store  
and doesn't segregate fabrics into use categories, and for most  
things I buy from him (for theatrical costumes) I only ask for  
cleaning instructions, not for name of fabric and not necessarily  
even for fiber content; that's why I don't know what it was. At a  
place like JoAnn's you might try looking at pajama fabrics and  
upscale fleeces. Depends on how close to you the viewers will be.

I had already bought some white fake fur from him the week before,  
hoping it would work for ermine, and I did use that on the edges of  
the garments I was making (modified houppelandes for "medieval  
banquet" king and queen) to get the full fur effect; I used some also  
to line the queen's sleeves, but I had to shear it with a razor  
because although it was short-pile for fake fur it was still too long  
for ermine, and too heavy. I used the brushed fabric to line the  
king's sleeves (edged them with sheared fake fur) because the person  
playing the king was very heavy himself and got easily overheated.  
 From a short distance, the "fur" lining his sleeves was at least as  
credible as the queen's, and in fact looked more luxurious.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Feb 5, 2007, at 10:49 AM, Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote:

>
> Specifically, something that closely resembles ermine. I can find  
> thicker stuff--if I wanted to line something with mink or fitch I'd  
> be set--but I haven't been able to find something that is as low  
> pile as ermine. Everything I've found is too thick and heavy.
>
> Would a white minky fabric be what I'm looking for?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> /Jen
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Vicky Simpson <vickycoleen2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric sale
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks for the link! I don't shop there often, but like to save money when I do. Does anyone know a good source for a lightweight wool to made into a cape/robe?
   
  Vicky

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  Most of you are probably already on the Joann's mailing list, but for 
those who aren't, here's an opportunity to sign up and receive the 50% 
off coupons for this weekend's sale.

http://www.joann-mail.com/J0508y1f/coupon_forward.html?r=0553899147&i=J0508y1f10

They will email you a couple times a month with sale information and 
coupons, but they do not share your information with anyone else. It's 
easy to get off their list if you want to.


Dawn


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You can find me at: www.360.yahoo.com/vickycoleen2007, www.southerngracedesigns.com, and www.myspace.com/vickycoleen .
   
   
   
       
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] seaquins and spangels
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 14:50:42 +0100
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Status: RO

Dear Kathleen,
Is it the book with embroideries?
I have it, got it as a gift.
Page 46 says "made of silk velvet with scattered sequins of silver, possibly 
silver over copper. Sequins, also known as paillettetes , were traditionally 
made by coiling a circular silver wire tightly around a long core of wood or 
metal.
The word sequins is younger than spangels or paillettes, it is from the time 
where they became quite cheap and commersially made in plastic.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 12:08 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] seaquins and spangels


> Bjarne, have you seen this book from the Ward collection at Snowshill? 
> The illustrations of photos do not give a real explanation of spangles and 
> sequins as compatable with metal discs as I have seen with Your work. This 
> puzzles me.
>
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 3:55 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] seaquins and spangels
>
>
>> Seaquins and spangels are the same. Its round flat metal cirkles with a 
>> hole in the middle.
>> Most were made of silver and gold, in 18th century they started to make 
>> colloured ones made by silver foil wich was vernished in collours.
>> There also was other shaped ones, wich they called paillons in france. 
>> They could have more holes to stitch it to the surface with.
>> If you want to read more about it i recomend the book:
>> Art of the Embroiderer by Saint Aubin.
>> He was a master embroiderer to Louix XV.
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: in search of fake fur
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 If you haven't already seen it, the March issue of Taunton's Threads magazine has a cover story about faux fur. There are lots of sources listed inside. I can transcribe them if people are interested. 



Also, it reviews a book that people on this list might find interesting. It's called Clothing and Textile Collections in the United States. It lists more than 2,600 collections in museums, historic sites and universities, and it's published by Texas Tech University Press.



HTH,

Tea Rose





Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 09:49:43 -0600 (CST)

From: "Pixel, Goddess and Queen" <pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com>

Subject: [h-cost] in search of fake fur



Specifically, something that closely resembles ermine. I can find thicker 

stuff--if I wanted to line something with mink or fitch I'd be 

set--but I haven't been able to find something that is as low pile as 

ermine. Everything I've found is too thick and heavy.



Would a white minky fabric be what I'm looking for?



Many thanks,



/Jen


















   
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: US source for a single copy of Moda a Firenze
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Status: RO

This is a little late, but in case someone WANTS _Moda a Firenze_ right now, I was in Lacis today, and they have a copy of it for sale (and they do mail order) - http://www.lacis.com/ I didn't check the price, since I already own a copy...
	-sunny


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Subject: [h-cost] historic academic robes
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Status: RO

hello all,
I've gotten permission to make my own cap, gown and hood for my  
graduation this June.  I would like to use the Alcega scholar's robe,  
or something similar.  Does anyone know of a good source for  
patterns?  Thank you!

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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Status: RO

> I've gotten permission to make my own cap, gown and hood for my 
> graduation this June.  I would like to use the Alcega scholar's robe, or 
> something similar.  Does anyone know of a good source for patterns?  

Either look into the Janet Arnold 'Patterns of Fashion' covering the 
Renaissance, or ask on a Harry Potter costume forum like 
MadameMalkins@yahoogroups.com .
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint
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Status: RO

Artbooks.com shows it as being available in April, I
believe.
http://artbooks.com/wc.dll?AB~searchquick~&cart=0

Maggie
--- Catherine Kinsey <Ckinsey@kumc.edu> wrote:

> I think we are going to have a better way of getting
> this book.  David
> Brown
> books contacted me because I suggested THEY carry
> it.  That way they
> can do
> all the work of getting it, pricing it (looks like
> about $99.50 but
> don't
> quote me yet) and making it available.  They speak
> English, they do
> mail
> order all the time; they take plastic.  I've even
> known them to make a
> deal
> where you pay in installments!
> 
> If there was ever a book that those who love the
> Italian Renaissance
> either
> in costuming or in history (or both).  You NEED this
> book!
> 
> Stay tuned to this Group for further developments!
> 
> Regina Romsey
> ****************************************
> Michael Shamansky will also be carrying it.  He told
> me he has
> contracted for half the edition.  Current price is
> $99.99 but he admits
> that could change depending on exchange rates and
> shipping but he will
> be trying to keep it as low as possible.  Contact
> information for him
> is:
> 
> Michael Shamansky, Bookseller Inc
> P.O. Box 3904
> Kingston, New York 12402
> 
> Telephone:  1-800-527-6775  (845 331 8519)
> Fax:  845-331-0852
> 
> Email: mshamans@artbooks.com 
> Url:  www.artbooks.com 
> 
> Catherine
> who has really regretted not having gotten this book
> earlier and has a
> copy on order.  Come on April!!
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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Status: RO

Hi,
I am thinking about buying a Simplicity pattern for a modern dress  
style, but it has been years and years since I used one of theirs  
(most of my historic stuff I just fit to myself.) When I was younger,  
the patterns were made with so much "ease" that if I followed the  
cutting lines for the size suggested by my measurements, the finished  
product would be about six inches too big -- the "ease" must have  
been about 10 inches! Has anybody got a sense of how these patterns  
run now? The style I'm looking at is fairly fitted, so I want to  
start with a pattern that's reasonably close to the right size.
thanks!
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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Status: RO

Hi,

They still run large.
I always make it one ore two sizes smaller.

Greetings,
       Deredere
Lauren Walker wrote:
> Hi,
> I am thinking about buying a Simplicity pattern for a modern dress 
> style, but it has been years and years since I used one of theirs 
> (most of my historic stuff I just fit to myself.) When I was younger, 
> the patterns were made with so much "ease" that if I followed the 
> cutting lines for the size suggested by my measurements, the finished 
> product would be about six inches too big -- the "ease" must have been 
> about 10 inches! Has anybody got a sense of how these patterns run 
> now? The style I'm looking at is fairly fitted, so I want to start 
> with a pattern that's reasonably close to the right size.
> thanks!
> Lauren
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Lauren Walker wrote:

> patterns were made with so much "ease" that if I followed the  cutting 
> lines for the size suggested by my measurements, the finished  product 
> would be about six inches too big -- the "ease" must have  been about 10 
> inches! Has anybody got a sense of how these patterns  run now? 

Not much has changed. There's often a chart on the envelope with real 
measurements for bust and hips, which is useful in determining which 
size to cut. I still almost always have to take two inches off the sides 
for something that is "fitted".  It's worse on some patterns than on 
others, I guess it depends on who drafts them.



Dawn



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In a message dated 2/6/2007 3:18:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

There's  often a chart on the envelope with real 
measurements for bust and hips,  which is useful in determining which 
size to cut. I still almost always  have to take two inches off the sides 
for something that is  "fitted".  It's worse on some patterns than on 
others, I guess it  depends on who drafts them.




And, let's face it--some people don't allow enough ease in their  clothes!  
As I remember, rib cage ease is 4-6 inches--that's to allow for  you to 
breathe.  And one's thighs do spread when one sits, so that hip ease  that seems too 
much standing might be needed when seated.
 
The different companies always did use a slightly different body style/type  
and ease, even given the same measurements for sizes.
 
Best strategy is still, I think, to buy closest to your bust size, as it is  
easier to alter hips and waist.
 
Ann Wass
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In a message dated 2/6/2007 3:04:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lauren.walker@comcast.net writes:

Has  anybody got a sense of how these patterns  
run now? 


*****************
 
Isn't the standard 3" of ease?
 
Things fit a little tighter now than they did a decade ago.
 
When I was taught to pattern, I learned that if you made things to  
measurements, they were too tight to even close sometimes. A really fitted  garment, 
like a cuirass bustle bodice for instance, might have like 1"  ease.
 
I hate commercial patterns that omit the sewing lines. I usually go in a  
draw them on the pattern, which greatly helps with altering the paper pattern  
[duh!] but it also makes for finding out what the measurements REALLY are.
 
But remember.... the paper pattern is just one stage, and whatever is made  
up will have to be fitted anyway, so don't get too bent out of shape [no pun  
intended] about the minute accuracy of the pattern pieces. Just make sure they  
are the right shape and on the right grain when  cutting.
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 15:58:58 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks to all. Luckily this thing has a very full skirt, it's only  
fitted above the waist, so I only have two measurements to really  
worry about. What I found confusing in the past was that the  
measurements listed on the back would suggest that I needed the  
pattern to be about two sizes bigger than my normal dress size, and  
then I'd get the pattern cut and it would turn out to be about two  
sizes too big.

One of the reasons I thought the historical costume list would be a  
place to inquire, I must confess, is that doing 18th C clothes had  
changed my whole notion of what ease should do.  The 18th century  
stuff actually fits better and allows a better range of motion if it  
is quite closely fitted -- my modern notion of ease in the shoulders  
and arms actually makes a gown more constricting. It's like I get  
hung up in the extra fabric. Where if the armscye is very close to  
both the arm and the body, the sleeve somehow moves with me. And I'm  
not using all that much ease in the circumference for breathing, what  
with the stays and all -- most of my expansion seems to be upward  
instead. Ease is one of those things that goes with modern, flat, cut- 
and-construction methods, stretchy fabrics, soft underpinnings, and  
mass-production sizes. Until I made 18th century garments I would  
never have believed that sometimes a closer fit is actually better.

The thing I want to make is actually a 50s retro style that seems to  
be back with a vengeance lately -- a halter-top dress with a wide  
waistband running from below the bust to the real waist, and then a  
full skirt. Sort of like Marilyn Monroe in the subway steam vent  
scene. So I figure I need a close fit on the halter top to remain  
decent. Which probably means NOT buying the size 18 pattern, even  
though the back measurements think I should.
Lauren

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Feb 6, 2007, at 3:23 PM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 2/6/2007 3:18:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> dawn@reddawn.net writes:
>
> There's  often a chart on the envelope with real
> measurements for bust and hips,  which is useful in determining which
> size to cut. I still almost always  have to take two inches off the  
> sides
> for something that is  "fitted".  It's worse on some patterns than on
> others, I guess it  depends on who drafts them.
>
>
>
>
> And, let's face it--some people don't allow enough ease in their   
> clothes!
> As I remember, rib cage ease is 4-6 inches--that's to allow for   
> you to
> breathe.  And one's thighs do spread when one sits, so that hip  
> ease  that seems too
> much standing might be needed when seated.
>
> The different companies always did use a slightly different body  
> style/type
> and ease, even given the same measurements for sizes.
>
> Best strategy is still, I think, to buy closest to your bust size,  
> as it is
> easier to alter hips and waist.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I will gently disagree. I can easily breathe in a garment with only 1" ease, as my body will adjust as well as the fabric, not that I recommend it. I still prefer 2-4" for ease in "semi-fitted" modern garments, and find 6" too big.
   
  And I suggest to use the upper bust measurement for pattern fitting, because us larger gals will have a fitting issue if we try to buy the pattern based on our full bust size. Companies think that we are therefore much larger in the upper chest and shoulder area as well, when they barely change size. Altering for a larger bust is easier than altering down for the upper chest that ends up too large if we go with the full bust size.
   
  just my opinion.
   
  Kimiko
  

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
    And, let's face it--some people don't allow enough ease in their clothes! 
As I remember, rib cage ease is 4-6 inches--that's to allow for you to 
breathe. <snip>
  Best strategy is still, I think, to buy closest to your bust size, as it is 
easier to alter hips and waist.


 
---------------------------------
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 16:12:23 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks, Kimiko. That was part of my worry -- that the shoulder straps  
would be falling off me, or far too widely-spaced, or way too long  
(that is, that they'd widen into the bodice way too low to be of use  
to me) and I'd have a devil of a time refitting everything. That's  
why I wanted to start with a pattern that was at least in the right  
ballpark.
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Feb 6, 2007, at 4:06 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:

> I will gently disagree. I can easily breathe in a garment with only  
> 1" ease, as my body will adjust as well as the fabric, not that I  
> recommend it. I still prefer 2-4" for ease in "semi-fitted" modern  
> garments, and find 6" too big.
>
>   And I suggest to use the upper bust measurement for pattern  
> fitting, because us larger gals will have a fitting issue if we try  
> to buy the pattern based on our full bust size. Companies think  
> that we are therefore much larger in the upper chest and shoulder  
> area as well, when they barely change size. Altering for a larger  
> bust is easier than altering down for the upper chest that ends up  
> too large if we go with the full bust size.
>
>   just my opinion.
>
>   Kimiko
>
>
> AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
>     And, let's face it--some people don't allow enough ease in  
> their clothes!
> As I remember, rib cage ease is 4-6 inches--that's to allow for you to
> breathe. <snip>
>   Best strategy is still, I think, to buy closest to your bust  
> size, as it is
> easier to alter hips and waist.
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a PS3 game guru.
> Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at  
> Yahoo! Games.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

On Tue, 6 Feb 2007, Lauren Walker wrote:

> Thanks, Kimiko. That was part of my worry -- that the shoulder straps would 
> be falling off me, or far too widely-spaced, or way too long (that is, that 
> they'd widen into the bodice way too low to be of use to me) and I'd have a 
> devil of a time refitting everything. That's why I wanted to start with a 
> pattern that was at least in the right ballpark.
> Lauren
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
>

Also remember that patterns are drafted for an "average" cup size of B or 
C at the most. When I was younger and misguided, I bought patterns to fit 
my larger-than-average bust measurement, and the results were uniformly 
too wide across the shoulders.

The March issue of Threads (which I've already been pointed to for the 
faux fur article) apparently has an article about altering patterns for 
larger bust sizes, so I have two (or three, depending on how you're 
counting) reasons to pick it up. ;-)

/Jen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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In a message dated 2/6/2007 4:00:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lauren.walker@comcast.net writes:

What I  found confusing in the past was that the  
measurements listed on the  back would suggest that I needed the  
pattern to be about two sizes  bigger than my normal dress size, and  
then I'd get the pattern cut  and it would turn out to be about two  
sizes too  big.




Women's dress sizes in the US are NOT standardized, but commercial pattern  
sizes are.  So there is really no relation between ready-to-wear and  patterns.
 
And that is one of the things I don't like about some small time historical  
pattern makers--you don't know WHAT standard they are using.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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In a message dated 2/6/2007 4:07:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sstormwatch@yahoo.com writes:

And I  suggest to use the upper bust measurement for pattern fitting, because 
us  larger gals will have a fitting issue if we try to buy the pattern based 
on  our full bust size. Companies think that we are therefore much larger in 
the  upper chest and shoulder area as well, when they barely change size. 
Altering  for a larger bust is easier than altering down for the upper chest that 
ends  up too large if we go with the full bust size.



Well, yes, upper bust size is a better measure for full-figured  women.  
However, I was giving a short and simple answer, based on years of  dealing with 
rather novice sewers.  But the upper bust measurement is not  always shown on 
pattern charts.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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Status: RO


If this is the style I am thinking of:

My experience with halter-top-like bodices is that if even a few inches 
of skin is exposed at bust level (by a low neckline, and/or bare back), 
the bust measurement becomes less meaningful than the length of the 
straps, or whatever you want to call the parts that lead up to your neck 
in front.  Those being too long, is what is likely to create the 
possibility of your getting arrested for indecent exposure. I always 
have to take the shoulders up on a slant, rather than straight across. 
If much skin at all is exposed in the front and/or the back of the 
bodice, the concept of bust pattern ease itself becomes irrelevant, but: 
  On the other hand, the size of the cloth's bust area determines how 
well your bosom is covered sideways, as it were.  And that is related 
both to how well endowed you are, and to your psychological comfort 
level regarding exposure.

I always make a muslin for things like this.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

> 
> The thing I want to make is actually a 50s retro style that seems to  be 
> back with a vengeance lately -- a halter-top dress with a wide  
> waistband running from below the bust to the real waist, and then a  
> full skirt. Sort of like Marilyn Monroe in the subway steam vent  scene. 
> So I figure I need a close fit on the halter top to remain  decent. 
> Which probably means NOT buying the size 18 pattern, even  though the 
> back measurements think I should.
> Lauren
> 
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
> 
> 
> 
> On Feb 6, 2007, at 3:23 PM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> 
>>
>> In a message dated 2/6/2007 3:18:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>> dawn@reddawn.net writes:
>>
>> There's  often a chart on the envelope with real
>> measurements for bust and hips,  which is useful in determining which
>> size to cut. I still almost always  have to take two inches off the  
>> sides
>> for something that is  "fitted".  It's worse on some patterns than on
>> others, I guess it  depends on who drafts them.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> And, let's face it--some people don't allow enough ease in their   
>> clothes!
>> As I remember, rib cage ease is 4-6 inches--that's to allow for   you to
>> breathe.  And one's thighs do spread when one sits, so that hip  ease  
>> that seems too
>> much standing might be needed when seated.
>>
>> The different companies always did use a slightly different body  
>> style/type
>> and ease, even given the same measurements for sizes.
>>
>> Best strategy is still, I think, to buy closest to your bust size,  as 
>> it is
>> easier to alter hips and waist.
>>
>> Ann Wass
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 13:45:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Hi Ann,
   
  My point is to use the upper bust measurement of the person when looking at the pattern for the bust size, if one is a larger person and hence probably larger than a B cup. While the upper bust measurement is not shown on the charts, using it as the bust measurement gets the upper body area closer to a person's actual upper chest size. Then the bust area can be adjusted larger as needed, and the waist and hips, too.
   
  And I suggest this from personal experience, not the vast experience you have.
   
  Kimiko
  

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
  Well, yes, upper bust size is a better measure for full-figured women. 
However, I was giving a short and simple answer, based on years of dealing with 
rather novice sewers. But the upper bust measurement is not always shown on 
pattern charts.

Ann Wass

 
---------------------------------
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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 18:08:31 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] "anglaise"??
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Anybody know what an "anglaise" is?  The quote from Woyzeck (written by
Beuchner in 1836) has him talking to a Captain '...if I were a proper
gentleman with a watch and an "anglaise" '...

Kate




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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Comparing to normal dress size may actually be closer to "right" =
currently, since garment makers seem ot be making their clothing bigger =
and bigger for a given size. Clothing that would have been a 10 when I =
was younger is now a 6 or even a 4.
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Lauren Walker
Sent: Tue 2/6/2007 3:58 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease



Thanks to all. Luckily this thing has a very full skirt, it's only=20
fitted above the waist, so I only have two measurements to really=20
worry about. What I found confusing in the past was that the=20
measurements listed on the back would suggest that I needed the=20
pattern to be about two sizes bigger than my normal dress size, and=20
then I'd get the pattern cut and it would turn out to be about two=20
sizes too big.

One of the reasons I thought the historical costume list would be a=20
place to inquire, I must confess, is that doing 18th C clothes had=20
changed my whole notion of what ease should do.  The 18th century=20
stuff actually fits better and allows a better range of motion if it=20
is quite closely fitted -- my modern notion of ease in the shoulders=20
and arms actually makes a gown more constricting. It's like I get=20
hung up in the extra fabric. Where if the armscye is very close to=20
both the arm and the body, the sleeve somehow moves with me. And I'm=20
not using all that much ease in the circumference for breathing, what=20
with the stays and all -- most of my expansion seems to be upward=20
instead. Ease is one of those things that goes with modern, flat, cut-
and-construction methods, stretchy fabrics, soft underpinnings, and=20
mass-production sizes. Until I made 18th century garments I would=20
never have believed that sometimes a closer fit is actually better.

The thing I want to make is actually a 50s retro style that seems to=20
be back with a vengeance lately -- a halter-top dress with a wide=20
waistband running from below the bust to the real waist, and then a=20
full skirt. Sort of like Marilyn Monroe in the subway steam vent=20
scene. So I figure I need a close fit on the halter top to remain=20
decent. Which probably means NOT buying the size 18 pattern, even=20
though the back measurements think I should.
Lauren

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Feb 6, 2007, at 3:23 PM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 2/6/2007 3:18:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> dawn@reddawn.net writes:
>
> There's  often a chart on the envelope with real
> measurements for bust and hips,  which is useful in determining which
> size to cut. I still almost always  have to take two inches off the=20
> sides
> for something that is  "fitted".  It's worse on some patterns than on
> others, I guess it  depends on who drafts them.
>
>
>
>
> And, let's face it--some people don't allow enough ease in their =20
> clothes!
> As I remember, rib cage ease is 4-6 inches--that's to allow for =20
> you to
> breathe.  And one's thighs do spread when one sits, so that hip=20
> ease  that seems too
> much standing might be needed when seated.
>
> The different companies always did use a slightly different body=20
> style/type
> and ease, even given the same measurements for sizes.
>
> Best strategy is still, I think, to buy closest to your bust size,=20
> as it is
> easier to alter hips and waist.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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Status: RO

Well, I don't have a lot of experience with larger than usual  
busts--certainly not my personal problem, and as most of my work was with  college students, 
not theirs, either! 
 
Ahhhh, I had never thought about using the upper bust measurement as  the 
stated bust measurement--if I ever do run across anyone so endowed, I'll  keep 
that in mind--thanks for the hint.  One can, of course, measure the  upper bust 
of the pattern one's self, but that means you have to buy the pattern  first, 
so is not much help in determining the right size to begin with.
 
How convenient that the current "Threads" addresses the issue of cup size  
alteration.   That does sound like a good solution for the dress that  started 
this discussion, the '50s style halter/strap style.  And those, of  course, 
should have less ease, but one would hope the pattern company put less  ease to 
begin with--hard to tell what is going on with them these days,  though.  I 
confess I haven't used a new woman-sized pattern in a  while.  All my 
non-historic sewing has been for little ones lately--no bust  fitting problems there!
 
And I agree with the person who expressed frustration that the stitching  
lines aren't marked on patterns anymore.  What a pain to have to measure  5/8" 
all the way around.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 17:47:36 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I have found patterns I use nowadays to be pretty accurate, but maybe 
it's just that I am more careful than I used to be.  I always check 
what the finished measurements on the pattern say and go by those.

Sylrog

On Feb 6, 2007, at 1:02 PM, Lauren Walker wrote:

> Hi,
> I am thinking about buying a Simplicity pattern for a modern dress 
> style, but it has been years and years since I used one of theirs 
> (most of my historic stuff I just fit to myself.) When I was younger, 
> the patterns were made with so much "ease" that if I followed the 
> cutting lines for the size suggested by my measurements, the finished 
> product would be about six inches too big -- the "ease" must have been 
> about 10 inches! Has anybody got a sense of how these patterns run 
> now? The style I'm looking at is fairly fitted, so I want to start 
> with a pattern that's reasonably close to the right size.
> thanks!
> Lauren
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 20:06:42 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Does anyone know of a clever tool for measuring the 5/8 all round the  
outside? I usually draw it on the cloth with a pencil, but the  
measurements get a bit, um, impressionistic on some of the curves.
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Feb 6, 2007, at 7:21 PM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>
> And I agree with the person who expressed frustration that the  
> stitching
> lines aren't marked on patterns anymore.  What a pain to have to  
> measure  5/8"
> all the way around.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 20:21:13 -0500
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Status: RO

For machine sewing I just use the guide on the platen. For hand  
sewing, yes, I measure as often as needed (very often on curves,  
twice or three times on the straight) and connect the dots with pencil.
I'll bet you could take one of those little compasses we used to get  
in our pencil boxes, set the gap between the pencil point and the  
pointed leg to 5/8, and use the point as a guide along the edge of  
the piece, marking 5/8 inch with the pencil end as you go. If it's a  
better-grade compass like the ones my father the engineer used to  
have, there's a nut at the end you can tighten to keep the  
measurement constant. I've never tried this, just thought of it this  
minute--but boyoboy it sounds easy, doesn't it? (Probably a lot of  
people on this list have thought of it long ago...?)
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Feb 6, 2007, at 8:06 PM, Lauren Walker wrote:

> Does anyone know of a clever tool for measuring the 5/8 all round  
> the outside? I usually draw it on the cloth with a pencil, but the  
> measurements get a bit, um, impressionistic on some of the curves.
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
>
>
>
> On Feb 6, 2007, at 7:21 PM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>> And I agree with the person who expressed frustration that the  
>> stitching
>> lines aren't marked on patterns anymore.  What a pain to have to  
>> measure  5/8"
>> all the way around.
>>
>> Ann Wass
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO


>
> In a message dated 2/6/2007 4:00:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> lauren.walker@comcast.net writes:
>
> What I  found confusing in the past was that the
> measurements listed on the  back would suggest that I needed the
> pattern to be about two sizes  bigger than my normal dress size, and
> then I'd get the pattern cut  and it would turn out to be about two
> sizes too  big.
>

Yeah.  I'd been sewing for several years when I took Home Ec.  My  
teacher measured me and measured the pattern and said that I wore a  
14.  I told her that, no, I wore a 10.  But she was the teacher, and  
(of course) she prevailed.  I made the dress.   We could both fit in  
it .....

*sigh*

jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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On Tue, 6 Feb 2007, Lauren Walker wrote:

> Does anyone know of a clever tool for measuring the 5/8 all round the  
> outside? I usually draw it on the cloth with a pencil, but the  
> measurements get a bit, um, impressionistic on some of the curves.

Most of my tape measures are 5/8 inches wide. I lay one edge of the tape
measure against the pattern line and run the pencil along the other edge.
The tape measure can go around a curve for a little of the way, and I keep
shifting it along the edge as I draw.

--Robin

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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I have a double tracing wheel that I run along the edge of the pattern, 
and it makes an indent 5/8" away.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Tue, 6 Feb 2007, Lauren Walker wrote:
> 
> 
>>Does anyone know of a clever tool for measuring the 5/8 all round the  
>>outside? I usually draw it on the cloth with a pencil, but the  
>>measurements get a bit, um, impressionistic on some of the curves.
>
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Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2007 21:14:53 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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Status: RO

You can use a french curve or one of those bendable rulers also.
Monica 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 9:54 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease



On Tue, 6 Feb 2007, Lauren Walker wrote:

> Does anyone know of a clever tool for measuring the 5/8 all round the  
> outside? I usually draw it on the cloth with a pencil, but the  
> measurements get a bit, um, impressionistic on some of the curves.

Most of my tape measures are 5/8 inches wide. I lay one edge of the tape
measure against the pattern line and run the pencil along the other edge.
The tape measure can go around a curve for a little of the way, and I keep
shifting it along the edge as I draw.

--Robin

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Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2007 21:14:54 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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Status: RO


The pattern companies changed their specs in the middle 60s.

FWIW--Sizes as we know them are not "accurate" since there is no real
standard. Most companies have their  dress form  made to their own specs--
Target. Kmart and JCPenneys have them. Others probably do too. It gets
expensive for the manufacturer who has to foot the bill for multiple sizes
and for multiple stors. Some of the forms are $2000.

No wonder people make garments offshore now...

Monica

swimwear designer-- 25years
Costume designer.... even longer


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 9:03 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease



>
> In a message dated 2/6/2007 4:00:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> lauren.walker@comcast.net writes:
>
> What I  found confusing in the past was that the
> measurements listed on the  back would suggest that I needed the
> pattern to be about two sizes  bigger than my normal dress size, and
> then I'd get the pattern cut  and it would turn out to be about two
> sizes too  big.
>

Yeah.  I'd been sewing for several years when I took Home Ec.  My
teacher measured me and measured the pattern and said that I wore a
14.  I told her that, no, I wore a 10.  But she was the teacher, and
(of course) she prevailed.  I made the dress.   We could both fit in
it .....

*sigh*

jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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References: <C232A65DA6CE09479943F9365D01DA95569253@mcmail01.wwc.mccc.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "anglaise"??
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 19:27:17 -0700
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Status: RO

Something in an English style, or something (an accessory?) associated
especially strongly with the English?
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 4:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] "anglaise"??


>
> Anybody know what an "anglaise" is?  The quote from Woyzeck (written by
> Beuchner in 1836) has him talking to a Captain '...if I were a proper
> gentleman with a watch and an "anglaise" '...
>
> Kate
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze]
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Status: RO

Regina said:
I like David Brown Book Company because their marketing director  
knows me by
name from all the times I have written him to point out he is an  
Agent of
Satan (His duties being largely ceremonial) and a pusher.  I've also had
wonderful dealings and gotten great books at prices that I could  
never have
afforded otherwise.

Suzanne responds:
LOL.  If they can get the book in time to bring some copies to  
Kalamazoo, I'll happily join you in the name-calling, no matter the  
price.  (Yeah, I know it's not "medieval" but what the heck -- last  
year a couple of the booksellers were pushing the Tudor Tailor book.)

I love getting my weekly e-mails from David Brown Book Company.  I  
even persuaded my library to buy the Luttrell Psalter!!  I have been  
waiting more or less patiently while it sits in "In Process" limbo...  
and then yesterday when I went to put a hold on it so that I can be  
the first one to drag it home, I discovered that a blankity-blank  
history professor emeritus had beaten me to it.  Grrrr.  If it  
weren't for library privacy laws, I would march over to his office  
and demand to know why he's always after MY books... but I'm not  
allowed to say that I know patron information like that.  So I'll  
have to be quiet and wait 'til the semester ends and he's forced to  
return everything -- or until I just can't take it any more and  
Recall the book!  (Just call me Conan the Librarian.)



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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze]
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 19:02:11 -0800
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Status: RO

If you put a hold on it, he can't renew it, right? So, he'll have to return
it or face HUGE late fees. If your library doesn't charge late fees, drop
him a note saying they do now, it's a new policy, to try and encourage him
to return it. :-)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzanne
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 6:52 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze]


Regina said:
I like David Brown Book Company because their marketing director  
knows me by
name from all the times I have written him to point out he is an  
Agent of
Satan (His duties being largely ceremonial) and a pusher.  I've also had
wonderful dealings and gotten great books at prices that I could  
never have
afforded otherwise.

Suzanne responds:
LOL.  If they can get the book in time to bring some copies to  
Kalamazoo, I'll happily join you in the name-calling, no matter the  
price.  (Yeah, I know it's not "medieval" but what the heck -- last  
year a couple of the booksellers were pushing the Tudor Tailor book.)

I love getting my weekly e-mails from David Brown Book Company.  I  
even persuaded my library to buy the Luttrell Psalter!!  I have been  
waiting more or less patiently while it sits in "In Process" limbo...  
and then yesterday when I went to put a hold on it so that I can be  
the first one to drag it home, I discovered that a blankity-blank  
history professor emeritus had beaten me to it.  Grrrr.  If it  
weren't for library privacy laws, I would march over to his office  
and demand to know why he's always after MY books... but I'm not  
allowed to say that I know patron information like that.  So I'll  
have to be quiet and wait 'til the semester ends and he's forced to  
return everything -- or until I just can't take it any more and  
Recall the book!  (Just call me Conan the Librarian.)



_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: re: [h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze]
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Status: RO

>Suzanne responds:
>...  So I'll
>have to be quiet and wait 'til the semester ends and he's forced to
>return everything -- or until I just can't take it any more and
>Recall the book!  (Just call me Conan the Librarian.)

<grin>
Argh! obscure humor!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] [OT] borrowers' privileges [was DBBC etc.]
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Status: RO

Yeah, but professors get to keep books 'til the end of the academic  
year.  I'll have to wait 'til mid-May.  The "Recall" feature is for  
items that someone reallyreallyreally needs for research; I don't  
apply it lightly and I already hit this professor once last semester  
for something I WANTED.  (Not that he knows who requested it, because  
the library privacy laws work both ways.)

Suzanne
					
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
Date: February 6, 2007 9:02:11 PM CST
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze]
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>


If you put a hold on it, he can't renew it, right? So, he'll have to  
return
it or face HUGE late fees. If your library doesn't charge late fees,  
drop
him a note saying they do now, it's a new policy, to try and  
encourage him
to return it. :-)

<snipped>

Suzanne said:

I love getting my weekly e-mails from David Brown Book Company.  I
even persuaded my library to buy the Luttrell Psalter!!  I have been
waiting more or less patiently while it sits in "In Process" limbo...
and then yesterday when I went to put a hold on it so that I can be
the first one to drag it home, I discovered that a blankity-blank
history professor emeritus had beaten me to it.  Grrrr.  If it
weren't for library privacy laws, I would march over to his office
and demand to know why he's always after MY books... but I'm not
allowed to say that I know patron information like that.  So I'll
have to be quiet and wait 'til the semester ends and he's forced to
return everything -- or until I just can't take it any more and
Recall the book!  (Just call me Conan the Librarian.)

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Status: RO

Suzanne wrote:
> Yeah, but professors get to keep books 'til the end of the academic  
> year.  I'll have to wait 'til mid-May. 

After 8 years of college and 3 universities I never met a professor who 
returned anything at the end of the semester. I had to go chasing down 
more than one book over the years from people who had them more or less 
on permanent loan.



Dawn


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Status: RO


>
> Suzanne said:
>
> I love getting my weekly e-mails from David Brown Book Company.  I
> even persuaded my library to buy the Luttrell Psalter!!  I have been
> waiting more or less patiently while it sits in "In Process" limbo...
> and then yesterday when I went to put a hold on it so that I can be
> the first one to drag it home, I discovered that a blankity-blank
> history professor emeritus had beaten me to it.  Grrrr.  If it
> weren't for library privacy laws, I would march over to his office
> and demand to know why he's always after MY books... but I'm not
> allowed to say that I know patron information like that.  So I'll
> have to be quiet and wait 'til the semester ends and he's forced to
> return everything -- or until I just can't take it any more and
> Recall the book!  (Just call me Conan the Librarian.)

*snicker*

I always give them a month or two with the book and *then* request it.  
  Here, it isn't The Academic Year anymore, the loan period is One  
Calendar Year.  Tomorrow, I'm going to put in a request for Thor  
Ewing's Viking Clothing book.  Anybody got any comments on it?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Status: RO

On Tuesday 06 February 2007 11:24 pm, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
I always give them a month or two with the book and *then* request it.  


 Tomorrow, I'm going to put in a request for Thor  
Ewing's Viking Clothing book.  Anybody got any comments on it?

Yes, I do.  It's an interesting read.  Wisely, Mr. Ewing doesn't purport to 
have the gospel truth about what the Vikings wore:  instead, he reports the 
finds and current theories that he is aware of.  He also is very forthcoming 
with his clothing theories based on that evidence.  I don't agree with 
everything he says, but a lot of it is plausible and all of it is 
thought-provoking.  The only thing I regret about the book is that it doesn't 
have more illustrations in it.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost



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Quoting Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>:

> On Tuesday 06 February 2007 11:24 pm, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> I always give them a month or two with the book and *then* request  
> it.   Tomorrow, I'm going to put in a request for Thor  Ewing's  
> Viking Clothing book.  Anybody got any comments on it?
>
> Yes, I do.  It's an interesting read.  Wisely, Mr. Ewing doesn't purport to
> have the gospel truth about what the Vikings wore:  instead, he reports the
> finds and current theories that he is aware of.  He also is very forthcoming
> with his clothing theories based on that evidence.  I don't agree with
> everything he says, but a lot of it is plausible and all of it is
> thought-provoking.  The only thing I regret about the book is that it doesn't
> have more illustrations in it.

I had flipped through it once (and I still kick myself for not  
checking it out then!), and that was the one thing that I noticed.

thanks!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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In a message dated 2/6/2007 9:14:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

I have a  double tracing wheel that I run along the edge of the pattern, 
and it  makes an indent 5/8" away.



*************
 
I do too...and you can adjust it to other measurements as well [like 1/2"  or 
3/8ths]
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze]
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On Tue, 6 Feb 2007, Suzanne wrote:

> I like David Brown Book Company because their marketing director knows
> me by name from all the times I have written him to point out he is an
> Agent of Satan (His duties being largely ceremonial) and a pusher.  
> I've also had wonderful dealings and gotten great books at prices that
> I could never have afforded otherwise.
> 
> Suzanne responds:
> LOL.  If they can get the book in time to bring some copies to  
> Kalamazoo, I'll happily join you in the name-calling, no matter the  
> price.

That particular agent would be Ian, who is a real sweetheart in person
too. He is at K'zoo every year. He will smile winningly as you call him
names ... and plunk down your cash.

--Robin

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] [OT] borrowers' privileges [was DBBC etc.]
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Status: RO

Maybe contact him and borrow it for a week or so.


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzanne
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 7:26 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] [OT] borrowers' privileges [was DBBC etc.]


Yeah, but professors get to keep books 'til the end of the academic  
year.  I'll have to wait 'til mid-May.  The "Recall" feature is for  
items that someone reallyreallyreally needs for research; I don't  
apply it lightly and I already hit this professor once last semester  
for something I WANTED.  (Not that he knows who requested it, because  
the library privacy laws work both ways.)

Suzanne
					
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
Date: February 6, 2007 9:02:11 PM CST
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze]
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>


If you put a hold on it, he can't renew it, right? So, he'll have to  
return
it or face HUGE late fees. If your library doesn't charge late fees,  
drop
him a note saying they do now, it's a new policy, to try and  
encourage him
to return it. :-)

<snipped>

Suzanne said:

I love getting my weekly e-mails from David Brown Book Company.  I
even persuaded my library to buy the Luttrell Psalter!!  I have been
waiting more or less patiently while it sits in "In Process" limbo...
and then yesterday when I went to put a hold on it so that I can be
the first one to drag it home, I discovered that a blankity-blank
history professor emeritus had beaten me to it.  Grrrr.  If it
weren't for library privacy laws, I would march over to his office
and demand to know why he's always after MY books... but I'm not
allowed to say that I know patron information like that.  So I'll
have to be quiet and wait 'til the semester ends and he's forced to
return everything -- or until I just can't take it any more and
Recall the book!  (Just call me Conan the Librarian.)

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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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Status: RO

I don't know wether you have this nice little tool in the us, here it is called a sømometer, It is a piece of aluminum with a number of measures on them. Ours is in the metric, so you can measure 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and up to 8 cm with this nice littel tool. Here is a link to a pic
http://www.stofstedet.dk/stofshoppen/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=&products_id=498
Tania

Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote: Does anyone know of a clever tool for measuring the 5/8 all round the  
outside? I usually draw it on the cloth with a pencil, but the  
measurements get a bit, um, impressionistic on some of the curves.
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Feb 6, 2007, at 7:21 PM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>
> And I agree with the person who expressed frustration that the  
> stitching
> lines aren't marked on patterns anymore.  What a pain to have to  
> measure  5/8"
> all the way around.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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Status: RO


What is it with Home Ec teachers???  I suffered a similar fate.  I had to 
take Home Ec as I was female, shop was strictly for the boys.  I had been 
cooking and sewing for years before hand.

I managed to fail all three years, the teacher thought I was taking my 
sewing projects home for my mother to do...she thought there was no way a 12 
year old could sew, so well.

I managed to get past this setback though...thank God the credits didn't 
have any effect on me graduating, and went on to take Costume Studies in 
University and have made a career for myself!

I often wish there could be a reunion though, so I could go back and tell 
her what I had accomplished!

Kelly!


An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign.


Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician


>
>Yeah.  I'd been sewing for several years when I took Home Ec.  My  teacher 
>measured me and measured the pattern and said that I wore a  14.  I told 
>her that, no, I wore a 10.  But she was the teacher, and  (of course) she 
>prevailed.  I made the dress.   We could both fit in  it .....
>
>*sigh*
>
>jerusha
>-----
>Susan Farmer
>sfarmer@goldsword.com
>University of Tennessee
>Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
>http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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Quoting Kelly Grant <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>:

>
> What is it with Home Ec teachers???  I suffered a similar fate.  I had
> to take Home Ec as I was female, shop was strictly for the boys.  I had
> been cooking and sewing for years before hand.

LOL.  Good to know I wasn't alone!  >rolls eyes!<

>
>>
>> Yeah.  I'd been sewing for several years when I took Home Ec.  My    
>> teacher measured me and measured the pattern and said that I wore a  
>>   14.  I told her that, no, I wore a 10.  But she was the teacher,   
>> and  (of course) she prevailed.  I made the dress.   We could both   
>> fit in  it .....
>>

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: [h-cost] Home Ec--Was pattern ease
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In a message dated 2/7/2007 7:55:43 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com writes:

What is  it with Home Ec teachers


Actually, seventh grade home ec. got me started sewing for myself--I had  
just made doll clothes before that.  But I couldn't carry on with home ec.  in 
high school because I was college prep track and taking French  instead.  We had 
to have a "practical art" to graduation, but I chose  typing, and am I glad I 
did!
 
I majored in home ec. in college, though, and got an excellent grounding in  
clothing construction.  Also went on to get my master's and Ph.D. in  "home 
ec." based programs.  In one of the classes I TA'ed for, instead  of relying on 
measurements for pattern sizing, we fitted everyone in the  pre-made bodice 
shells from one of the pattern companies.  That  was an interesting 
experience--it was the mid 1970s so most of the students had  much lower bust points than 
the fitting shells did, no doubt a consequence of  wearing either less 
constructed bras or no bras at all. But that was  still probably better than relying 
on measurements alone.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Thor Ewing's book (was [OT] borrowers' privileges)
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>
> *snicker*
>
> I always give them a month or two with the book and *then* request it.  Here, 
> it isn't The Academic Year anymore, the loan period is One Calendar Year. 
> Tomorrow, I'm going to put in a request for Thor Ewing's Viking Clothing 
> book.  Anybody got any comments on it?
>
> susan

It's a good summary of the extant research. Not enough illustrations, but 
other than that, useful to have around and interesting as well.

/Jen
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] historic academic robes
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 08:23:23 -0700
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Status: RO

Alcega? ;o)
Seriously, though, if you're thinking "regular commercial pattern," I really
haven't seen anything out there that might qualify as a pattern for academic
robes.  Doesn't mean it's not out there, just that I, myself, haven't seen
it.
Good luck, though, and congrats on graduating!
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Althea Turner" <althea@alfalfapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 9:37 AM
Subject: [h-cost] historic academic robes


> hello all,
> I've gotten permission to make my own cap, gown and hood for my
> graduation this June.  I would like to use the Alcega scholar's robe,
> or something similar.  Does anyone know of a good source for
> patterns?  Thank you!


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Subject: Subject: Re: [h-cost] [OT] borrowers' privileges [was DBBC etc.]
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In a message dated 07/02/2007 15:03:29 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Tomorrow, I'm going to put in a request for Thor  
Ewing's Viking Clothing book.  Anybody got any comments on  it?


Prefacing by saying that I don't know anything, because I haven't seen a  
copy (not really interested in viking, so till somebody orders something it'll  
stay that way) - a friend says there are some fairly large gaps in  it.
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Status: RO

Suzanne wrote:
> Yeah, but professors get to keep books 'til the end of the academic 

> year.  I'll have to wait 'til mid-May. 

After 8 years of college and 3 universities I never met a professor who

returned anything at the end of the semester. I had to go chasing down

more than one book over the years from people who had them more or less

on permanent loan.
Dawn
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I work at a University medical center.  Many years ago we got a new
director of the library.  He made himself *very* unpopular with about
half the faculty by insisting they return the books some of them had had
for YEARS in their own 'private' libraries.  I think what worked was
billing their departments for the books.  He made the other half of the
faculty, and the students, very happy however.

Catherine
not a librarian but genetically I don't know how I escaped it....


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: "anglaise"?? 
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 18:08:31 -0500
From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
Subject: [h-cost] "anglaise"??
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<C232A65DA6CE09479943F9365D01DA95569253@mcmail01.wwc.mccc.com>
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Anybody know what an "anglaise" is?  The quote from Woyzeck (written by
Beuchner in 1836) has him talking to a Captain '...if I were a proper
gentleman with a watch and an "anglaise" '...

Kate

==========================

My first reaction was "a bit of English crumpet" :-) but could it refer to a
top hat? A watch and a hat are key accessories. Male English dress at that
time was becoming more and more subdued.

Eve Harris

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Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 11:22:01 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: "anglaise"??
From: "Chiara Francesca" <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

From: http://romancereaderatheart.com/france/timeline/

# ROBE A L'ANGLAISE: robe fitted and shaped to torso.

# ROBE DU MATIN A L'ANGLAISE: English morning dress

Does that help?

Maybe there is a definition for it in the Costume library.

Chiara

On Wed, February 7, 2007 11:04 am, Eve Harris & David Stamper said:
> Message: 14
> Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 18:08:31 -0500
> From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
> Subject: [h-cost] "anglaise"??
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> 	<C232A65DA6CE09479943F9365D01DA95569253@mcmail01.wwc.mccc.com>
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>
>
> Anybody know what an "anglaise" is?  The quote from Woyzeck (written
> by
> Beuchner in 1836) has him talking to a Captain '...if I were a
> proper
> gentleman with a watch and an "anglaise" '...
>
> Kate
>
> ==========================
>
> My first reaction was "a bit of English crumpet" :-) but could it
> refer to a
> top hat? A watch and a hat are key accessories. Male English dress
> at that
> time was becoming more and more subdued.
>
> Eve Harris
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: "anglaise"??
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 11:31:46 -0600
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Status: RO

Anglaise was the term used for anything English or in the English style.
Those with means in the French court, especially in the latter half or
the 1700's craved any new fashion or food that had l'anglaise or
americaine in its name , as these items were supposed to denote a move
towards simplicity and naturalness.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Chiara Francesca
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 11:22 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: "anglaise"??

From: http://romancereaderatheart.com/france/timeline/

# ROBE A L'ANGLAISE: robe fitted and shaped to torso.

# ROBE DU MATIN A L'ANGLAISE: English morning dress

Does that help?

Maybe there is a definition for it in the Costume library.

Chiara

On Wed, February 7, 2007 11:04 am, Eve Harris & David Stamper said:
> Message: 14
> Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 18:08:31 -0500
> From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
> Subject: [h-cost] "anglaise"??
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> 	<C232A65DA6CE09479943F9365D01DA95569253@mcmail01.wwc.mccc.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
>
>
> Anybody know what an "anglaise" is?  The quote from Woyzeck (written
> by
> Beuchner in 1836) has him talking to a Captain '...if I were a
> proper
> gentleman with a watch and an "anglaise" '...
>
> Kate
>
> ==========================
>
> My first reaction was "a bit of English crumpet" :-) but could it
> refer to a
> top hat? A watch and a hat are key accessories. Male English dress
> at that
> time was becoming more and more subdued.
>
> Eve Harris
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 12:45:14 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Something like Accessible Archives?
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Status: RO

I swear by Accessible Archives for the entire run of Godey's Lady's Book,
scanned at high resolution and word-searchable.  A subscription is
affordable to an individual, not just a library or university.  Does anyone
know of a comparable site for Peterson's or Harper's Bazaar - the sort of
thing you can use at home (without being university -affiliated)? I know
some sites have an issue here and there, but I'm looking for something more
complete.

Martha




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Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2007 19:45:33 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Hanna Zickermann <h.zickermann@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: "anglaise"?? 
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Status: RO

It could be a well-groomed beard. An English mustache ("Englischer 
Schnurrbart") is still the German term for a thin mustache with 
twisted tips. Perhaps that kind of beard was en vogue in the 1830ies 
and a well-groomed beard a status symbol like a watch?

Hanna

At 18:04 07.02.2007, you wrote:
>Message: 14
>Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 18:08:31 -0500
>From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
>Subject: [h-cost] "anglaise"??
>To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID:
>         <C232A65DA6CE09479943F9365D01DA95569253@mcmail01.wwc.mccc.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"
>
>
>Anybody know what an "anglaise" is?  The quote from Woyzeck (written by
>Beuchner in 1836) has him talking to a Captain '...if I were a proper
>gentleman with a watch and an "anglaise" '...
>
>Kate
>
>==========================
>
>My first reaction was "a bit of English crumpet" :-) but could it refer to a
>top hat? A watch and a hat are key accessories. Male English dress at that
>time was becoming more and more subdued.
>
>Eve Harris
>
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Home Ec--Was pattern ease
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Status: RO

My junior high home ec teachers used Home Ec classes as nauseating 
propaganda sessions for becoming housewives. As in constantly telling 
12-year-olds things like, "Learn about nutrition so you can give your 
children a good breakfast."  And yes, girls were not allowed to take 
shop.  They also were not allowed to wear pants except in winter, and 
then only if they changed into skirts before school actually started.

However, I did take many classes in two different college programs in 
clothing design.  One was for professionals and I majored in couture 
design and sewing (mostly hand sewing). (The other majors available were 
ready-to-wear and millinery.) The other, at another college, was part of 
their Home Ec program, where all that was available were ready-to-wear 
and home-sewing  classes. There I took courses in sewing (required, even 
if you knew how), pattern drafting, and flat pattern work. I also took 
courses in textile arts, which was part of the art department, mostly in 
weaving as it turned out.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>  
> In a message dated 2/7/2007 7:55:43 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com writes:
> 
> What is  it with Home Ec teachers
> 
> 
> Actually, seventh grade home ec. got me started sewing for myself--I had  
> just made doll clothes before that.  But I couldn't carry on with home ec.  in 
> high school because I was college prep track and taking French  instead.  We had 
> to have a "practical art" to graduation, but I chose  typing, and am I glad I 
> did!
>  
> I majored in home ec. in college, though, and got an excellent grounding in  
> clothing construction.  Also went on to get my master's and Ph.D. in  "home 
> ec." based programs.  In one of the classes I TA'ed for, instead  of relying on 
> measurements for pattern sizing, we fitted everyone in the  pre-made bodice 
> shells from one of the pattern companies.  That  was an interesting 
> experience--it was the mid 1970s so most of the students had  much lower bust points than 
> the fitting shells did, no doubt a consequence of  wearing either less 
> constructed bras or no bras at all. But that was  still probably better than relying 
> on measurements alone.
>  
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historic academic robes
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 12:44:04 -0800
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Status: RO

On Feb 6, 2007, at 9:51 AM, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>> I've gotten permission to make my own cap, gown and hood for my  
>> graduation this June.  I would like to use the Alcega scholar's  
>> robe, or something similar.  Does anyone know of a good source for  
>> patterns?
>
> Either look into the Janet Arnold 'Patterns of Fashion' covering  
> the Renaissance, or ask on a Harry Potter costume forum like  
> MadameMalkins@yahoogroups.com .

I think the "schaube" (gown) may be in Patterns of Fashion. You don't  
have to scale up the little pieces, though. If you start with a yoked  
shirt pattern to make the yoke, the rest of the gown just falls into  
place.

-- 
andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/
San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R  
(Kevin's)
       "It's not pink, it's peach-colored. Pink is tacky."
                --Manfred Pfirsich Marie Rommel

2nd most important safety device on my bike: the one beneath my right  
hand
Most important safety device on my bike: the one inside my helmet

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Subject: [h-cost] "Dressing the Queen"
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Status: RO

Saragrace, didn't you do a web page on "Dressing the Queen?" (i.e.,  
the layers and how everything is put together ...) Is it still up?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:58:39 -0500
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historic academic robes
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

If you're looking for a modern pattern as a starting point, the
major pattern catalogues all had a choir/clerical robe with a 
square yoke and a full body and sleeves pleated/gathered in.
Good luck with the project, 
                  -Helen

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Subject: [h-cost] House of Mirth
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Status: RO

After seeing Gillian Anderson in the very good [though overly sedate  
costumed] "Bleak House", a friend told me to check her out in "House of  Mirth".
So I did.
 
Yummy and delicious! Another great story about how awful society can be to  
decent people by Edith Wharton.
The costumes are right on. The designer understands the  difficult period 
completely [1905-7]. Highly  recommended!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] historic academic robes
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 2/7/2007 3:45:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
attrembl@bovil.com writes:

I think  the "schaube" (gown) may be in Patterns of Fashion. You don't  
have  to scale up the little pieces, though. If you start with a yoked   
shirt pattern to make the yoke, the rest of the gown just falls into   
place.



****************
 
And isn't there a pattern for a "long gown" is Jean Hunnisette's book. Just  
cartridge pleat the back and front long parts onto the yolk and add wide  
cartridge pleated sleeves and.... voila!
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From: Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] late Victorian princess seam patterns
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Status: RO

Hi Everyone,
   I was just looking at princess line housedresses
from the 1890s and am confused by how to sew some of
the pieces together.  I'll see if I can describe what
I see.  The back of the bodice is in two pieces with
the curved back seam.  When you get to the waist line
the seamline goes out at a 90 degree angle and then
down to the hem.  There's no corresponding interior 90
degree angle on the side front so the 5 or 10 inches
of fabric that sticks out from the waist has to be
gathered or pleated somehow so that the side seam
becomes straight again.  I am so lost on how this fits
together.     

          
           \          The slanted lines are the center
back \   curve and then the side seam takes that      
  \
              \   jut to the side but the matching
              1     piece for the side back is mainly
              1     flat.  Am I supposed to stack
pleat   -------    the outer corner but then what do 
        1         I do with the raw edges on the top
        1         of the stacked pleats?  Sorry 
        1      about the art but maybe some one has
seen one of these or the inside            of one and
can suggest something.
                  These seem to be housedresses so
                   I'm thinking cotton or lightweight
                   wool for my first attempt.  Any 
                   help or thoughts appreciated.
                                         Cassandra












 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] late Victorian princess seam patterns
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 2/8/2007 12:32:48 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rosenau5@yahoo.com writes:





Yes, it appears you are to pleat up the extra width of the back piece. As  to 
where the returns go....like towards the CB or away from the CB or box  
pleated....that is not knowable with the info you gave us. Of course if they go  
towards the CB, the returns would most likely be no wider than the  width 
measurement of the CB piece at the point of the pleats.
Often the top of these pleats are tacked to the flatlining of the back to  
hold them in place and take the weight. The raw edge can be covered with a piece 
 of twill tape or a strip of lining fabric....all basted to the flatlining of 
the  bodice.
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From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] late Victorian princess seam patterns
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 00:54:31 -0500
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Status: RO

They did a lot of pleats like this, it adds the fullness to the skirt
without bulk in the bodice or waist. 10 inches of fabric would definitely
have to be some sort of stacked pleat to hang right. A simple bashed
together house dress might have had no finishing on the edge, just tacking
to hold it in place. A slightly better dress might have had the edges
whipped, that might also help hold everything in place securely. A really
nice silk morning dress probably would have had the edges bound just as the
seams were. 19th Century Fashion in Detail has a good close up of a dress
with pleats done this way. It's an exterior picture so it won't give you the
construction but it shows the stacking very well, it's on page 202.

Beth Chamberlain

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cascio Michael
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 12:32 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] late Victorian princess seam patterns

Hi Everyone,
   I was just looking at princess line housedresses
from the 1890s and am confused by how to sew some of
the pieces together.  I'll see if I can describe what
I see.  The back of the bodice is in two pieces with
the curved back seam.  When you get to the waist line
the seamline goes out at a 90 degree angle and then
down to the hem.  There's no corresponding interior 90
degree angle on the side front so the 5 or 10 inches
of fabric that sticks out from the waist has to be
gathered or pleated somehow so that the side seam
becomes straight again.  I am so lost on how this fits
together.     

          
           \          The slanted lines are the center
back \   curve and then the side seam takes that      
  \
              \   jut to the side but the matching
              1     piece for the side back is mainly
              1     flat.  Am I supposed to stack
pleat   -------    the outer corner but then what do 
        1         I do with the raw edges on the top
        1         of the stacked pleats?  Sorry 
        1      about the art but maybe some one has
seen one of these or the inside            of one and
can suggest something.
                  These seem to be housedresses so
                   I'm thinking cotton or lightweight
                   wool for my first attempt.  Any 
                   help or thoughts appreciated.
                                         Cassandra












 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <LLEALCLGCCEBKHIGEMPOEEBLEJAA.marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Something like Accessible Archives?
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 03:37:53 -0500
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Martha,

My online Library, www.costumelibrary.com  includes a number of fashion publications from the 19th and early 20th Centuries. I try to cover the design and business aspects of the fashion/textile industry and the costume/fancy dress industry over two centuries.  I actually stay away from Godey's because it is on the web so much. We have individuals and institutional subscriptions. Our subscribers also have access to our Fashion Color Database, www.fcdatabase.com  and our new Costume Encyclopedia, www.costumeencyclopedia.com .  The Color Database I mentioned on the list recently.  The Encyclopedia can be accessed by anyone at no charge.  The images in the database are thumbnails with their descriptions.  On the image entire page their is a link provided to the subscription area of the Library.  The Library's Table of Contents can be viewed at no charge.  Also numerous thumbnails can be seen on our updates webpage, www.costumegallery.com/updates.htm .  Today I have added five photographic views of a wire mesh bustle pad from the VCU Fashion Collection.
The Costume Encyclopedia contains hundreds of costumes/fashions descriptions from Ancient times to present day. Our resources are photos of actual costumes from institutional and private collections, antique photos, images/illustrations from magazines, books, newspapers, and catalogs. Some of these sources contain character costumes for plays, international cultures, songs, poems, books, paintings, operas, etc. Each of these character costumes will contain information such as setting and their various creators. The Encyclopedia also covers the business side of the industry with business names during specific periods and sometimes antique advertisements for specific retailers, wholesalers, manufacturers, and designers for the fashion and textile industries.



Below are some of the publications on our websites. There are more publications and photos but these are the ones I remember from the past 11 years.  At the last count we over 10,000 webpages and over 35,000 images on the Gallery websites.  It is hard to recall all of them.

Periodicals:
Lady's Book: Early 19th Century
Petersons Magazine: 1849-1880 (selective years and articles)
Le Journal des Dames et es Modes: Early 19th Century
Delineator Magazine: 1886-early 1920s
L'Art de la Mode: 1920-1923
Illustrated London News: 1847-early 1860s (fashion articles)
Frank Leslie's Gazette of Fashions & the Beau Monde magazines: 1856 & 1860s
Gazette du Bon Ton Ton: 1912-1923: images
Dry Goods Economist: 1890s ( Industry Trade Journals)
National Retail Clothiers' Association Bulletin, 1918 (Trade Journal)
Ladies' Friend, 1870
Ladies' Home Journal: 1893-1913
The Ladies Cabinet of Fashion, Music, & Romance, 1838 (British)

Online Books:
1814: Picturesque Representations of The Dress and Manners of the English
1868: The Corset and the Crinoline
1860: Queens of Society: specific chapters online of certain historic women
1880s: Handbuch der Deutschen Tracht (Handbook of German Dress): images
1887: Fancy Dresses Described or What to Wear at Fancy Balls by Ardern Holm (on-going project adding definitions in our Encyclopedia section)
1894: Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods (on-going project adding definitions in our Encyclopedia section)
1911 Butterick Sewing Manual
1911: Women and Labor by Olive Schreiner
1913: Rose Bertin: The Creator of Fashion at the Court of Marie Antoinette (first two chapters online... very juicy)
1916: Illustrations of Model Gowns, Harry Angelo Company (European fashion designers)
1918: The Secrets of Distinctive Dress, excerpt, Harmonious Color Combinations
1922: William & Wiener. The Paris Models, Paris and New York City (Designer fashions)
1938: French Costumes (19th Century Regional Costume images)


Etiquette Books:
1814:  Principles of Politeness and knowing of the World by the Late Lord Chesterfield
1877: The Ladies' and Gentlemen's Etiquette: A Complete Manual of the Manners and Dress of American Society
1882: American Etiquette and Rules of Politeness
1921:  Book of Etiquette by Lillian Eichler

Hair Care Books:
1899: MacFadden's New Hair Culture: Rational, Natural Methods for Cultivating Strength and Luxuriance of the Hair
1911: The Manual on Hairdressing, Manicuring, Facial Massage, Electrolysis, and Chiropody by M.A. Moler

Catalogs:
1896: Marshall Field & Co. (Designer Fashions)
1896: "Coming Styles Designed by the Great Costumers of Europe." The Denver Dry Goods, Co.
1897 & 1900: Butterick Patterns Masquerade, Carnival, and Fancy Dress Catalogs
1910: Men's Tog Catalog, Moretz Whitener Clothing Co. Spring and Summer Catalog
1915: Catalogue of American Historical Costumes First Ladies of the White House As Shown in the United States National Museum
1922: Lane Bryant Maternity Catalog
1922: Raynster Raincoats: Rubber Clothing Sundries and Naugahyde Specialities Catalog, U.S. Rubber Company
1922: Guide to Hairdressing at Home, West Electric Hair Curler Company
1923: "Made to Order Clothing", Sears , Roebuck, and Co. (menswear)
1923: Uniforms and Equipment for Bands and Military Organizations, Catalogue No. 36, D. Klein & Bro.
1923: Lombard Middy Blouses Catalog (Bathing suit section)

Shoes Catalogs:
1902: Queen's Quality Shoe Catalog Spring and Summer (women)
1910: Walk-Overs for Men, Geo. E. Keith Company, Spring (men)
1920: Thayer McNeil Company, Spring and Summer Catalog (women)

Photo Collections:  I have over 5,000 photographs of actual costumes to add to the Library.  Below are some of our collections in the Library.

***Wedding Dresses exhibit, Valentine Museum, Richmond, VA
***Mardi Gras Costumes exhibit, New Orleans, LA
***John and Mabel Ringling Museum of Art, Sarasota, FL. Costumes of the Nations (mansion's ballroom ceiling murals) AND coming within the next two weeks photos of the Carnivale in Venice (mansion gameroom ceiling murals)
***Princess Diana's dresses from the Christies' Auction (seven dresses)
***Virginia Commonwealth University Fashion Collection
***Dave Matthews Band video "Stay"
***Pretty as a Picture: 1890s & early 1910s women photos in picture hats
***Sunday Best Clothes: Girls in 1st Communion/Confirmation Dresses, app. 75 photos
***Sunday Best Clothes: Early 20th Century Wedding photos
***Virginia families: 1850-1920
***A Brush with History series: Females with long hair, app. 50 photos, mid-victorian to early 20th Century
***Titanic Costumes: Photos of the film's major characters' costumes from the National Tour
***Artisitc Quilts and Wearable Art from the Quilt Fest National Tour
 
Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
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Subject: [h-cost] Flexible, removable,
	Teflon iron plate cover - where to buy in US?
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Status: RO

A long time ago, I bought one of these:
http://www.formaster.com.pl/english/teflon_cover_plate.htm
from a TV AD.  It works wonderfully, but now mine is getting torn up.

I contacted the supplier from the above link, but they are in Poland.  Has 
anyone seen these available State side?
I've looked all over the internet and even in "AS SEEN ON TV" but to no 
avail.

Thanks,

Sg 

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20070207152334.396lzy2v184kwssk@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Dressing the Queen"
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Status: RO

Sorry, it is not.  I lost my website and am in the process of putting it all 
back up...but won't get back to it until March.  Was there a specific 
question?

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 1:23 PM
Subject: [h-cost] "Dressing the Queen"


> Saragrace, didn't you do a web page on "Dressing the Queen?" (i.e.,
> the layers and how everything is put together ...) Is it still up?
>
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 09:06:50 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Flexible, removable,Teflon iron plate cover - where to
	buy in US?
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Status: RO

Try one of the New York suppliers-- Steinlauf and Stoller come to mind.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 8:49 AM
To: h-costume; TheRenaissanceTailor
Subject: [h-cost] Flexible, removable,Teflon iron plate cover - where to
buy in US?


A long time ago, I bought one of these:
http://www.formaster.com.pl/english/teflon_cover_plate.htm
from a TV AD.  It works wonderfully, but now mine is getting torn up.

I contacted the supplier from the above link, but they are in Poland.  Has 
anyone seen these available State side?
I've looked all over the internet and even in "AS SEEN ON TV" but to no 
avail.

Thanks,

Sg 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flexible, removable,
	Teflon iron plate cover - where tobuy in US?
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Status: RO

Yeah, I've checked with them and Greenberg and Hammer.  Everyone has the 
aluminum covered shoes, but not the plain Teflon...

Thanks!

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:06 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Flexible, removable,Teflon iron plate cover - where 
tobuy in US?


> Try one of the New York suppliers-- Steinlauf and Stoller come to mind.
> Monica
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 8:49 AM
> To: h-costume; TheRenaissanceTailor
> Subject: [h-cost] Flexible, removable,Teflon iron plate cover - where to
> buy in US?
>
>
> A long time ago, I bought one of these:
> http://www.formaster.com.pl/english/teflon_cover_plate.htm
> from a TV AD.  It works wonderfully, but now mine is getting torn up.
>
> I contacted the supplier from the above link, but they are in Poland.  Has
> anyone seen these available State side?
> I've looked all over the internet and even in "AS SEEN ON TV" but to no
> avail.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sg
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Dressing the Queen"
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Status: RO

Quoting Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>:

> Sorry, it is not.  I lost my website and am in the process of putting it all
> back up...but won't get back to it until March.  Was there a specific
> question?
>

Not really.  We were talking about The Proper Layers on another list,  
and I went looking for your page to point them too and couldn't find  
it.  I hope it comes back soon!  If you know the Old URL, I can see if  
it's on the WayBack machine.  The last restore that I had to do of my  
website came from The WayBack Machine becaise the backups were  
corrupted ...

*sigh*

Thanks!
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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References: <20070207152334.396lzy2v184kwssk@www.goldsword.com><BAY133-DAV14C6E273C87BEE51F1096DD29D0@phx.gbl>
	<20070208092403.u6zk53wfsl40k00w@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Dressing the Queen"
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Status: RO

My backups have the HTML but not the pictures or their structure. The HTML 
is in the Way Back Machine, but not the pictures.  I have all the pictures, 
but they are scattered all over my computer.


Thanks for your interest!

Sg
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:24 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Dressing the Queen"


> Quoting Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>:
>
> > Sorry, it is not.  I lost my website and am in the process of putting it 
> > all
> > back up...but won't get back to it until March.  Was there a specific
> > question?
> >
>
> Not really.  We were talking about The Proper Layers on another list,
> and I went looking for your page to point them too and couldn't find
> it.  I hope it comes back soon!  If you know the Old URL, I can see if
> it's on the WayBack machine.  The last restore that I had to do of my
> website came from The WayBack Machine becaise the backups were
> corrupted ...
>
> *sigh*
>
> Thanks!
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Dressing the Queen"
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Quoting Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>:

> My backups have the HTML but not the pictures or their structure. The HTML
> is in the Way Back Machine, but not the pictures.  I have all the pictures,
> but they are scattered all over my computer.
>

Nods.  That was the way it was for me.  I was just so thankful that I  
didn't have to recreate all that HTML!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Flexible, removable,
	Teflon iron plate cover - where tobuy in US?
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Status: RO


Hi Saragrace---
I am checking with my school. We deal with someone who has gotten these for
us, but I can't remember the name. Be back to you as soon as I find out.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 9:15 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flexible, removable,Teflon iron plate cover -
where tobuy in US?


Yeah, I've checked with them and Greenberg and Hammer.  Everyone has the
aluminum covered shoes, but not the plain Teflon...

Thanks!

Sg




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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 11:39:58 -0500
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Status: RO

	Ah yes, I'd forgot about that marvellous film. Very compelling.
Excellent costumes, yes.

	Wish there were more films with Gillian Anderson; always thought she
is a brilliant actress, one of Oscar calibre. 

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Soon to come: books by
Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 16:53:46 +0000
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] RE: House of Mirth
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Status: RO

Agreed - I recently bought the DVDs of the BBC's "Bleak House" in which
Gillian Anderson is one of the leads - almost all the characters
superbly well cast (and the costumes pretty good too, not that I'm a
Victorian expert).

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca> 08/02/2007 16:39
>>>wrote:

	Ah yes, I'd forgot about that marvellous film. Very compelling.
Excellent costumes, yes.

	Wish there were more films with Gillian Anderson; always thought
she
is a brilliant actress, one of Oscar calibre. 

_
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From: "Susan" <Scourney@nwlink.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <7C0D5D51-9425-4E30-8389-11B04C9674D8@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historic academic robes
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 09:23:14 -0800
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Status: RO

Hi, Has anyone pointed you to this yet?
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/occupationaluniforms.htm

Susan
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Althea Turner" <althea@alfalfapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 8:37 AM
Subject: [h-cost] historic academic robes


> hello all,
> I've gotten permission to make my own cap, gown and hood for my  
> graduation this June.  I would like to use the Alcega scholar's robe,  
> or something similar.  Does anyone know of a good source for  
> patterns?  Thank you!
> 
> Althea Turner
> althea@alfalfapress.com
> 
> "Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
> company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
> anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
> reasons behind things."
> William of Conches, 12th century
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flexible, removable,Teflon iron plate cover - where
	tobuy in US?
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Status: RO

How about the second one on this page? (VERY reliable supplier!)
http://www.sewtrue.com/PressingSupplies2.html#Anchor-IS

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>Sent: Feb 8, 2007 9:15 AM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flexible, removable,	Teflon iron plate cover - where tobuy in US?
>
>Yeah, I've checked with them and Greenberg and Hammer.  Everyone has the 
>aluminum covered shoes, but not the plain Teflon...
>
>Thanks!
>
>Sg
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:06 AM
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Flexible, removable,Teflon iron plate cover - where 
>tobuy in US?
>
>
>> Try one of the New York suppliers-- Steinlauf and Stoller come to mind.
>> Monica
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
>> Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
>> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 8:49 AM
>> To: h-costume; TheRenaissanceTailor
>> Subject: [h-cost] Flexible, removable,Teflon iron plate cover - where to
>> buy in US?
>>
>>
>> A long time ago, I bought one of these:
>> http://www.formaster.com.pl/english/teflon_cover_plate.htm
>> from a TV AD.  It works wonderfully, but now mine is getting torn up.
>>
>> I contacted the supplier from the above link, but they are in Poland.  Has
>> anyone seen these available State side?
>> I've looked all over the internet and even in "AS SEEN ON TV" but to no
>> avail.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Sg
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] historic academic robes - robes for 15th/16th C. Barber
	Surgeons, Chirugeons, & Notaries
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Susan <Scourney@nwlink.com> wrote:
  Hi, Has anyone pointed you to this yet?
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/occupationaluniforms.htm
   
  REQUEST FOR HELP, PLEASE
  Gentles of the Historical Costume List, 
  can any Listers direct me to clear contemporary illustrations of the over-robes worn for "normal day wear" by late-medieval professionals such as Barber-Surgeons, Chirugeons, and Notaries? 
  From the few illustrations I've been able to find so far, - any prosperous middle-class man seems to have worn some variation on a long - just-above-the-ankles, heavy-looking robe, of some dark fabric, trimmed with fur around the neck, sleeve-cuffs or armholes,  vertical front closure hems; and bottom hem.
  I am already aware of the Holbein portrait of "King Henry VIII with the College of Barber Surgeons". Unfortunately, the digitised versions I've been able to access are too dark to be able to see much clothing detail on the Barber Surgeons' robes.
  I've looked quickly at the website posted by Susan [see above] for another enquirer, - but couldn't see any sub-headings relevant to my own search for pictures clear enough to enable me to acquire/make such a robe for my own future use in a portrayal of a Barber-Surgeon of the period 1490-1509.
   Your help is humbly solicited, and will be most gratefully received.
   YIS,
  Matthew Baker,
  isolated from the SCA mainstream
  in "old" Jersey.




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Subject: [h-cost] Mid-20th c. evening wear fashion photos
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Hi everyone,
   
  I'm a librarian looking for books of fashion photographs for one of my library customers. She is interested in women's evening wear of the 1940s and 1950s. Does anyone know of a good source or sources for this kind of information?
   
  Thanks in advance for your help,
   
  Bonnie

 
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Does anyone have a color photo from a painting at the Met?

http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=11&viewmode=1&item=63.
43.1

Thanks--
Monica


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Quoting monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>:

>
>
> Does anyone have a color photo from a painting at the Met?
>
> http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=11&viewmode=1&item=63.43.1
>

*WOW*

I'd settle for a larger copy!  Have you emailed the museum?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Dear Monica,
The link dont work. When i get there, there is no picture!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:40 PM
Subject: [h-cost] looking for picture in color


>
>
> Does anyone have a color photo from a painting at the Met?
>
> http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=11&viewmode=1&item=63.
> 43.1
>
> Thanks--
> Monica
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Feb  8 14:19:32 2007
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Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 14:59:40 -0400
From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: pattern sizes
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Status: RO

Monica wrote:

> The pattern companies changed their specs in the middle 60s.
> 
> FWIW--Sizes as we know them are not "accurate" since there is no real
> standard. Most companies have their  dress form  made to their own specs--
> Target. Kmart and JCPenneys have them. Others probably do too. It gets
> expensive for the manufacturer who has to foot the bill for multiple sizes
> and for multiple stors. Some of the forms are $2000.
> 
> No wonder people make garments offshore now...

But why can't they all use the same standard? I can shop at certain stores,
but not at all in others. I am petite and a size 6-8 US, so I am not
unusually shaped other than being short. But there's no point in my trying
on clothes at, say, Target or Kohl's. JC Penney? They fit! But in lots of
stores, for instance, I swim in the small misses shirts, while the juniors
shirts (supposing I can find any non-slutty ones) look like I'm about to
burst out of even the mediums and larges. Where do the real medium and
large-sized teenagers go?

Pattern companies are even crazier!

Gail Finke

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for picture in color
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Status: RO

Dont know what happened, it didnt work before, but now i have seen it.
That is so beautifull. I love that pattern on the striped panels and the 
stomacher. It must be embroidered? Or was it wowen specially like this?

Bjarne who sees embroidery everywhere !


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for picture in color


> Quoting monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>:
>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone have a color photo from a painting at the Met?
>>
>> http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=11&viewmode=1&item=63.43.1
>>
>
> *WOW*
>
> I'd settle for a larger copy!  Have you emailed the museum?
>
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historic academic robes - robes for 15th/16th C. Barber
	Surgeons, Chirugeons, & Notaries
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Status: RO

Hello Julian,
   
  I will keep an eye out for anything suitable for you, but so many of those images of men in general are wearing black, so details are very difficult to determine. Have you been able to find any effigies or brass memorials? 
   
  Kimiko
  

julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
  REQUEST FOR HELP, PLEASE
Gentles of the Historical Costume List, 
can any Listers direct me to clear contemporary illustrations of the over-robes worn for "normal day wear" by late-medieval professionals such as Barber-Surgeons, Chirugeons, and Notaries? 
<snip>
 
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Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>:

> Dear Monica,
> The link dont work. When i get there, there is no picture!
>

The periods cause the URL to break funny.  Try this

http://tinyurl.com/3yhyuk

I want to see that embroidery in color!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historic academic robes
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 11:40:07 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

My thanks for all the information. I've gotten a pretty good idea of  
the gowns, but still don't have a good notion of the hoods. Does  
anyone have good pictures of their own doctoral hoods?  Thanks!
Althea


On Feb 8, 2007, at 9:23 AM, Susan wrote:

> Hi, Has anyone pointed you to this yet?
> http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/occupationaluniforms.htm
>
> Susan
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Althea Turner" <althea@alfalfapress.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 8:37 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] historic academic robes
>
>
>> hello all,
>> I've gotten permission to make my own cap, gown and hood for my
>> graduation this June.  I would like to use the Alcega scholar's robe,
>> or something similar.  Does anyone know of a good source for
>> patterns?  Thank you!
>>
>> Althea Turner
>> althea@alfalfapress.com
>>
>> "Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have
>> company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into
>> anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the
>> reasons behind things."
>> William of Conches, 12th century
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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Bjarne-
Click on the link again, and then enter "63.43.1" in the search box 
on the left to get to the picture.  The URL was too long and it 
truncated in Monica's post.
                 -Helen

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Subject: [h-cost] princess seam construction thanks
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Status: RO

Thanks for the ideas on the construction of the
housedress.  I'm actually looking at a pattern draft
from the Voice of Fashion 1890s.  I've never been very
good at getting the gathered or pleated edges to go
smoothly into the adjacent seam and the instructions
are basically non-existent for exactly whether to
pleat or gather and how to get it to go in smoothly. 
I don't have much luck with gores either.  I just need
more practice.  Thanks again.
                                Cassandra


 
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Subject: [h-cost] soleplate
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Here is another source fore that soleplate, Saragrace,

Garment Center, 252 B W. 37th St  212 279 8774


Monica



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Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 15:10:43 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for picture in color
In-reply-to: <20070208135726.1wn838loto0so0wk@www.goldsword.com>
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Status: RO

No, but they say on their website that they sell B&W photos, no mention of
color.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 1:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for picture in color


Quoting monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>:

>
>
> Does anyone have a color photo from a painting at the Met?
>
>
http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=11&viewmode=1&item=63.
43.1
>

*WOW*

I'd settle for a larger copy!  Have you emailed the museum?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 15:13:12 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for picture in color
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Status: RO

Hi Bjarne--
Yes, it looks to be embroidered. The painting is so muck lovelier than the
B&W photo.  I have spent some time at the Met staring at it. The guards
always tell me not to get too close...

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for picture in color


Dont know what happened, it didnt work before, but now i have seen it.
That is so beautifull. I love that pattern on the striped panels and the
stomacher. It must be embroidered? Or was it wowen specially like this?

Bjarne who sees embroidery everywhere !


----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for picture in color


> Quoting monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>:
>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone have a color photo from a painting at the Met?
>>
>>
http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=11&viewmode=1&item=63.
43.1
>>
>
> *WOW*
>
> I'd settle for a larger copy!  Have you emailed the museum?
>
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: [h-cost] thanks for the site, Venetian carnival?
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http://tinyurl.com/2dhssg

De

-----Original Message-----
The periods cause the URL to break funny.  Try this

http://tinyurl.com/3yhyuk

I want to see that embroidery in color!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer


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Subject: [h-cost] Mid-20th c. evening wear fashion photos
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 13:59:12 -0700
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>   I'm a librarian looking for books of fashion photographs 
> for one of my library customers. She is interested in women's 
> evening wear of the 1940s and 1950s. Does anyone know of a 
> good source or sources for this kind of information?

There are a number of books I'd look at, depending on what exactly you're looking for (in no particular order):

_New Look to Now. French Haute Couture 1947-1987_ by Stephen DE Pietri and Melissa Leventon
	* has photos of museum displays. All "High Fashion".

_Blueprint of Fashion. Home Sewing Patterns of the 1950s_ by Wade Laboissonniene
	* if you're looking for photo's of real people, this isn't it. It's got lots of pictures of sewing pattern covers. Many of which are evening dresses.

_This Fabulous Century 1940-1950_ and _This Fabulous Century 1950-1960_ published by Time Life Books
	* photos of real people (and real magazine articles) from Time magazine. The pictures of evening dress are usually on the wealthy or the stars.

_American Costume 1915-1970. A Sourcebook for the Stage Costumer_ by Shirley Miles O'Donnell
	* it has some photos, but is mostly line drawings of both day and evening wear. The text is very useful though...

_Vogue. History of 20th Century Fashion_ by Jane Muluagh
	* This is entirely "High Fashion" but there are lots of photos of women in evening wear.


Other books that I don't have (and therefore cannot vouch for) that may be useful:
Harris, Kristina. _Vintage Fashions for Women: The 1950s& 60s_
Shih, Joy. _Fashionable Clothing from the Sears Catalogs: Late 1950s_
Skinner, Tina. _Fashionable Clothing from the Sears Catalogs: Mid 1950s_
Skinner, Tina. _Fashionable Clothing from the Sears Catalogs: Mid 1940s_
Skinner, Tina and McCord, Lindy. _Fashionable Clothing from the Sears Catalogs: Late 1940s_
Skinner, Tina and Schuck, Jenna Palecko. _Fashionable Clothing from the Sears Catalogs: Early 1940s_
Smith, Desire. _Fashionable Clothing: From the Sears Catalogs, Early 1950s_
Smith, Desire. _Vintage Style 1920-1960_

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mid-20th c. evening wear fashion photos
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In a message dated 2/8/2007 4:00:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sunshine_buchler@agilent.com writes:

There  are a number of books I'd look at


***************
 
But don't forget actual fashion mags from whatever year you want. Most  
libraries have Vogue, McCalls, and the like....all bound up by year.
 
I designed [many years ago] a play by Arthur Kopit "Oh Dad, Poor Dad. Mom's  
Hung You in the Closet and I'm Feeling So Sad". What a great and bizarre black 
 comedy that was! Anyway, it takes place in Cuba at Carnival in the mid 50's. 
I  did all my research from mags of the period. I learned from this to pick a 
 year....a specific year [I chose 1956...the year I was born]  
because...well...
I noticed things like, in 1955, the full skirts came from the waist. But in  
1956, there was a distinct trend of having the skirts come from a high hip, 
with  a basque or the bodice cut longer. This waned in 1957. It was amazing the  
details you can glean from primary sources. {now of course not everybody 
wears  the clothes of the current year, but Madam Rosepetal, the "mom" from  hell 
in the play, would NEVER be caught in something not up to the  minute!]
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Status: RO

Photographs are permitted at the Met. <hint> Unfortunately, I live too far 
(Arkansas) to run in and take some! I do have the big Met catalog.. I'll 
check it. Couldn't find the painting in Storia.

Beth

>Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 15:13:12 -0500
>From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
>
>Hi Bjarne--
>Yes, it looks to be embroidered. The painting is so muck lovelier than the
>B&W photo.  I have spent some time at the Met staring at it. The guards
>always tell me not to get too close...
>
>Monica

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Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 15:25:08 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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> What is it with Home Ec teachers???  I suffered a similar fate.  I had
> to take Home Ec as I was female, shop was strictly for the boys.  I had
> been cooking and sewing for years before hand.

Heh, I was in the garage playing powertools with my dad.  I've decided
to re-learn braising (it's kinda like welding) so I can make a huge
wire supportasse.  The wire wrap one I tried was too heavy & warped.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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On Feb 8, 2007, at 3:25 PM, Cin wrote:

>> What is it with Home Ec teachers???  I suffered a similar fate.  I  
>> had
>> to take Home Ec as I was female, shop was strictly for the boys.   
>> I had
>> been cooking and sewing for years before hand.
>
> Heh, I was in the garage playing powertools with my dad.  I've decided
> to re-learn braising (it's kinda like welding) so I can make a huge
> wire supportasse.  The wire wrap one I tried was too heavy & warped.

Brazing, please.

Braising is something from home-ec ;)

-- 
andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/
San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R  
(Kevin's)
       "It's not pink, it's peach-colored. Pink is tacky."
                --Manfred Pfirsich Marie Rommel

2nd most important safety device on my bike: the one beneath my right  
hand
Most important safety device on my bike: the one inside my helmet

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From: Lena <lenastrid@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Early Medieval horisontal looms
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Status: RO

A while ago, someone on this list asked for reference
to a shuttle found in Waterford, Ireland. I've come
across a completely unrelated object, but relevant for
the early medieval horisontal looms: A pulley from
Sigtuna, Sweden (dated to 11th-12th centuries).
Picture here:
http://mis.historiska.se/mis/sok/fid.asp?fid=117780

My source (in swedish):
http://histvarld.historiska.se/histvarld/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2335

If you want more info, either contact me, or ask the
forum directly (scroll down the main forum page for
the English forum).

Hope this can be of use to some of you.

/Lena


		
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Status: RO

Does any know what a size 8 for mens shoes would be in european nr´s.
I use a size 38 but i think they would fit.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shoe sizes
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8 is much bigger than 38. At least for ladies' shoes I wear between a size 6.5 to 7.5 in the UK depending on the shoe designer and on the Continent that would be around 41. Thus 8 would be 42/43.

Nicole

----- Original Message ----
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Friday, 9 February, 2007 1:32:50 PM
Subject: [h-cost] shoe sizes


Does any know what a size 8 for mens shoes would be in european nr´s.
I use a size 38 but i think they would fit.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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http://salamandershoes.com/m_chart.php


comparison chart.


Denise
Iowa

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Status: RO

Dear Nicole and Denise.
Thanks for your prompt answers.
That was a shame, they are two big for me.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] shoe sizes
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Status: RO

Hi Bjarne,

Try this link: www.i18nguy.com/l10n/shoes.html
It's a conversion chart.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 8:33 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] shoe sizes

Does any know what a size 8 for mens shoes would be in european nr´s.
I use a size 38 but i think they would fit.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Status: RO

Bjarne--

A size 8 US men's shoe would be a 38 or 39 European size.
You can't trust US sizes, though--they vary quite a bit.
Kim 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 7:33 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] shoe sizes

Does any know what a size 8 for mens shoes would be in european nr´s.
I use a size 38 but i think they would fit.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Status: RO

This is true. But I can say for sure: I (female) wear a size 37 in the European shoes I wear (Berkenstock, but also some closed shoes) and a 6 1/2 or 7 in American-sized shoes; my consort (male) wears an 8 or 8 1/2 American size. There's no way he could fit into my shoes, and his are too large for me even to clomp around in, so I'd question the equation of 8 US men's and 38 or 39 European. A little small on him and a little big on me would NOT wind up to be the same size....
--for what it's worth--
Ruth Anne

-----Original Message-----
>From: Kim Baird <kbaird@cableone.net>
>Sent: Feb 9, 2007 10:05 AM
>To: 'Historical Costume' <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] shoe sizes
>
>Bjarne--
>
>A size 8 US men's shoe would be a 38 or 39 European size.
>You can't trust US sizes, though--they vary quite a bit.
>Kim 
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
>Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 7:33 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] shoe sizes
>
>Does any know what a size 8 for mens shoes would be in european nrÂ´s.
>I use a size 38 but i think they would fit.
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
>> Heh, I was in the garage playing powertools with my dad.  I've decided
>> to re-learn braising (it's kinda like welding) so I can make a huge
>> wire supportasse.  The wire wrap one I tried was too heavy & warped.

>Brazing, please.

>Braising is something from home-ec ;)

Funny.  Thanks,
--cin
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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early Medieval horisontal looms
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Status: RO

Thank you very much. Any evidence helps!

Beth

>Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 11:29:33 +0000 (GMT)
>From: Lena <lenastrid@yahoo.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Early Medieval horisontal looms
>
>A while ago, someone on this list asked for reference
>to a shuttle found in Waterford, Ireland. I've come
>across a completely unrelated object, but relevant for
>the early medieval horisontal looms: A pulley from
>Sigtuna, Sweden (dated to 11th-12th centuries).
>Picture here:
>http://mis.historiska.se/mis/sok/fid.asp?fid=117780
>
>My source (in swedish):
>http://histvarld.historiska.se/histvarld/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2335
>
>If you want more info, either contact me, or ask the
>forum directly (scroll down the main forum page for
>the English forum).
>
>Hope this can be of use to some of you.
>
>/Lena

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Subject: [h-cost] Toddler  Bonnet/Coif construction? 1600-1640
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Status: RO

Anyone have specific sources on the construction of Toddler bonnet's/coifs 
during this period?  Not having any back views I was just going to follow 
these apparent constructions from 18th/19th century vintage garments.

Items 6212 and 1855 on this page:  http://www.vintagetextile.com/early.htm

Thanks,

Sg 

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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 16:03:41 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity and ease
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Status: RO

Simplicity has an article on their web site explaining their version of
"ease."
http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=section/classroom/sewingLessons/sew
ing101part2.cfm

If that link doesn't work, try Simplicity.com (http://www.simplicity.com/)
and go to "Sewing 101 - Part 2."

Martha




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Subject: [h-cost] Re: bonnet / coif
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Status: RO

In a message dated 2/10/07 7:02:14 PM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 13:26:50 -0700
> From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Toddler  Bonnet/Coif construction? 1600-1640
> To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <BAY133-DAV141FED53430B8D918877CDD29C0@phx.gbl>
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> 
> Anyone have specific sources on the construction of Toddler bonnet's/coifs 
> during this period?  Not having any back views I was just going to follow 
> these apparent constructions from 18th/19th century vintage garments.
> 
> Items 6212 and 1855 on this page:  http://www.vintagetextile.com/early.htm
> 
> 
Sara did you see the 1680s bonnet on this site under  Gallery early. Regards  
Joy
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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: bonnet / coif query
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Saragrace,
   in the Mary Rose Trust's Volume 3 Report on the archaelogy of the salvaged Tudor wreck, "Before The Mast - Life & Death Aboard The Mary Rose", there is a picture of the salvaged Barber-Surgeon's velvet bonnet/coif, together with an accurate sketch of it as recovered and as conserved & reconstructed. 
  The "Mary Rose" foundered in July of 1545, and so predates the bonnet mentioned by Joy in an earlier post by nearly a century.
  The illustrations are so clear, I think you'll find the construction method used to be very helpful.
  If you e-mail me off-List, I'll scan-in the pages from my own copy of "Before The Mast" and download them to you a jpg files.
  YIS,
  Matthew,
  isolated by sea from the SCA mainstream, in the island of "Old Jersey"


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: bonnet / coif query
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Status: RO

Any chance I could get them too? 

Anne (back to lurking)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of julian wilson
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 9:33 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Re: bonnet / coif query

Saragrace,
   in the Mary Rose Trust's Volume 3 Report on the archaelogy of the
salvaged Tudor wreck, "Before The Mast - Life & Death Aboard The Mary Rose",
there is a picture of the salvaged Barber-Surgeon's velvet bonnet/coif,
together with an accurate sketch of it as recovered and as conserved &
reconstructed. 
  The "Mary Rose" foundered in July of 1545, and so predates the bonnet
mentioned by Joy in an earlier post by nearly a century.
  The illustrations are so clear, I think you'll find the construction
method used to be very helpful.
  If you e-mail me off-List, I'll scan-in the pages from my own copy of
"Before The Mast" and download them to you a jpg files.
  YIS,
  Matthew,
  isolated by sea from the SCA mainstream, in the island of "Old Jersey"


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bonnet / coif query
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Status: RO

Matthew
Could I have a copy as well?
estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com

Thank you so much!
Kelly

> Any chance I could get them too? 
> 
> Anne (back to lurking)
> 
>>  If you e-mail me off-List, I'll scan-in the pages from my own copy of
> "Before The Mast" and download them to you a jpg files.
>  YIS,
>  Matthew,
>  isolated by sea from the SCA mainstream, in the island of "Old Jersey"

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Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 14:53:49 -0800 (PST)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
In-Reply-To: <LLEALCLGCCEBKHIGEMPOGECPEJAA.marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Tiny URL
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Status: RO

We're getting a lot of broken/breaking URLs lately,
and many people find this confusing--especially if
they don't realize why the broken address doesn't
work. One can copy/paste the address in parts, sure,
but tiny URLs are so much easier.

Windows directions:
On any website, highlight the address and press Ctrl+C
to copy. Go to tinyurl.com and press Ctrl+V to paste
it in the box. Press Enter or click the button. That
creates an abbreviated URL and puts in your Windows
Clipboard. Go back to your outgoing mail message and
press Ctrl+V to paste it in.

It's always good to supply the original URL too, of
course, since people like to know where they're being
sent.

Just thought I'd pass that on.

MaggiRos
--- Martha Kelly <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com> wrote:

> Simplicity has an article on their web site
> explaining their version of
> "ease."
>
http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=section/classroom/sewingLessons/sew
> ing101part2.cfm
>
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <537105.48563.qm@web32704.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tiny URL
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:26:00 +1100
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Status: RO

These are the web addresses you need to cut down your URL, they both do much 
the same job but tiny url claims their links will never expire.
http://snipurl.com/
http://tinyurl.com/
an example of how you would apply this,
This is my latest dress diary http://tinyurl.com/yns7ev (the full URL 
http://au.geocities.com/costumersanonymous/1850sballgown/1855Ballgown.html ) 
by telling people the full URL they know you're not directing them to a site 
that will get them into trouble if they click on it at work or if they click 
on it with small children in the room but they don't have to copy and paste 
the link back together. If you want to be really safe tinyurl offers a 
preview function that will tell you exactly where the url redirects to if 
you put 'preview.' (without the quotation marks) just before tinyurl.com you 
get to a page like this http://preview.tinyurl.com/yns7ev
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

<snip all> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: historic academic & professional robes 
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Status: RO

 Matthew,



Have you seen Holbein's "Dance of Death" woodcuts? They're small, but there are several men wearing the style of robes you describe.



Here's a link to the online version: http://www.godecookery.com/macabre/holdod/holdod.htm Look at the Judge, the Advocate, the Physician, etc. The pictures are much clearer in the book I have; the originals are pretty small, I think, which is why they're so fuzzy online.



Does anybody have any other books of Holbein woodcuts? I always hear that he was so famous for his woodcuts in his lifetime, but I can't seem to get my hands on any of them besides "The Dance of Death."



Hope this helps,

Tea Rose

==============================================


Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 18:08:52 +0000 (GMT)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] historic academic robes - robes for 15th/16th C.
    Barber  Surgeons, Chirugeons, & Notaries

  REQUEST FOR HELP, PLEASE
  Gentles of the Historical Costume List, 
  can any Listers direct me to clear contemporary illustrations of the 
over-robes worn for "normal day wear" by late-medieval professionals such as 
Barber-Surgeons, Chirugeons, and Notaries? 
   YIS,
  Matthew Baker,
  isolated from the SCA mainstream
  in "old" Jersey.


   
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Status: RO

Hi there.

Seems to me the solution might be to glue a hem, not
sew one. After all, you are making a shower curtain,
and glue would be cleaner.

'Luck.

--Lizzie

Leslie Mundy, DCC  Office Hours: M-W-F Noon-5:00
John Carter Brown Library, Box 1894, Brown University
Providence, RI 

Just think...
"Somewhere a butterfly dreaming that it is Chuang Tzu,
flutters its wings and creates a distant hurricane."
http://NewMoon2000.tripod.com/oneway/

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] plastic fabric conundrum
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Status: RO

Gentle costumes,
I got a note from a friend about an odd fabric, and, hmmm, I dont have
any help to offer at all.  I've never seen this strange phenomena
before.  Perhaps someone on h-cost can make a suggestion?
I'll be sure to pass your words along.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Here is a picture of the fabric that's melting on my needle...
http://oort.com/goddess/temp/temp.fabric.jpg

I bought a nifty fabric that shimmers, intending to make a shower curtain
or curtains.  It's a background of stretchy thin knit, with 1/2 cm squares
of plastic all over it.  (If you cut thin slices and pull them, they turn
into the interesting "snakes" pictured in the foreground, which might make
cute cat toys.)  But when I tried to sew a simple hem, the thread kept
breaking.  Turns out, the plastic is melting on my machine's needle!

I tried sewing slower, with bigger stitches, but that didn't help.  I can
sew about 5' when the machine is cold, before the needle is irrevokably
gummed up.  I tried sewing slowly, and occationally sewing through linen
soaked in acetone to clean the needle, but met with limited success.
Besides, I'm afraid I'll damage my new Singer.

This puts a kink into plans I had to sew interesting things out of clear
shower curtains, too!  Does anyone have experience sewing plastic-y things
who can give me advice on what to do?  Otherwise it looks like hand-sewing
is tne only answer!

Best wishes,
Renee (or Wendy)
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] plastic fabric conundrum
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 15:47:48 -0600 (CST)
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Status: RO

I suspect it's not the plastic melting but the adhesive that holds the squares
on.  Would it be possible to sew only in the spaces between the squares?

Emma

Quoting Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>:

> Gentle costumes,
> I got a note from a friend about an odd fabric, and, hmmm, I dont have
> any help to offer at all.  I've never seen this strange phenomena
> before.  Perhaps someone on h-cost can make a suggestion?
> I'll be sure to pass your words along.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> 
> Here is a picture of the fabric that's melting on my needle...
> http://oort.com/goddess/temp/temp.fabric.jpg
> 
> I bought a nifty fabric that shimmers, intending to make a shower
> curtain
> or curtains.  It's a background of stretchy thin knit, with 1/2 cm
> squares
> of plastic all over it.  (If you cut thin slices and pull them, they
> turn
> into the interesting "snakes" pictured in the foreground, which might
> make
> cute cat toys.)  But when I tried to sew a simple hem, the thread kept
> breaking.  Turns out, the plastic is melting on my machine's needle!
> 
> I tried sewing slower, with bigger stitches, but that didn't help.  I
> can
> sew about 5' when the machine is cold, before the needle is
> irrevokably
> gummed up.  I tried sewing slowly, and occationally sewing through
> linen
> soaked in acetone to clean the needle, but met with limited success.
> Besides, I'm afraid I'll damage my new Singer.
> 
> This puts a kink into plans I had to sew interesting things out of
> clear
> shower curtains, too!  Does anyone have experience sewing plastic-y
> things
> who can give me advice on what to do?  Otherwise it looks like
> hand-sewing
> is tne only answer!
> 
> Best wishes,
> Renee (or Wendy)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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Status: RO


> Here is a picture of the fabric that's melting on my needle...
> http://oort.com/goddess/temp/temp.fabric.jpg

I've worked with this stuff before - the problem is the glue that sticks the shiny bits onto stretchy fabric. I came up with 2 solutions - neither of which is perfect, but they might help:

1) If you sew a piece of paper (regular printer paper) on top of the seam, the needle will last longer. I think it's because the paper scrapes some of the glue off the needle as it comes back up. After the seam is finished, just tear the paper off. (You'll still go though multiple needles using this method... Just not quite as many)

2) Remove the shiny bits from the fabric along the seam line, before sewing.

	Good luck!
		-sunny

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> http://oort.com/goddess/temp/temp.fabric.jpg 
> 

It looks like sequin dot knit. Some of that is truely horrible to sew 
with, but the good news is it doesn't really need hemmed, it won't 
unravel with use.

If you have to sew on it, the trick is to sew between the rows of 
plastic bits whenever possible. Also, a thinner needle has less surface 
area to gunk up, and a new sharp one will puncture instead of pushing 
the knit down into the machine. Don't use a ball-point knit needle.


Dawn
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] plastic fabric conundrum
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Status: RO

I've had good luck with the liquid called, I believe, Sewer's Aide, when  
stitching the glued-on sequin type fabrics. You put a drop of it on the  machine 
needle and it keeps the gunk from building up. That might  help.  I do think 
the idea of gluing the hem is a good one, though, if you  can find a really 
waterproof glue.
 
Ann Wass
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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] plastic fabric conundrum
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 15:42:19 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

On Feb 12, 2007, at 10:31 AM, Cin wrote:
> Gentle costumes,
> I got a note from a friend about an odd fabric, and, hmmm, I dont have
> any help to offer at all.  I've never seen this strange phenomena
> before.  Perhaps someone on h-cost can make a suggestion?
> I'll be sure to pass your words along.

I destroyed a sewing machine working with this sort of material.

(it was a piece of junk to start out)

You need the right needle. I'd suggest starting with a "microtex"  
style sharp needle; even though it's a knit, the surface treatment  
will prevent runs. I'd also suggest a silicone lubricant to wipe down  
the needle on a regular basis. Working with this stuff will dull your  
needle pretty quickly, so expect to replace it regularly.

If the sharp needle doesn't work on this fabric, try a "jeans" style  
sharp needle, or a "leather" chisel-point needle. Those should also  
work for clear vinyl shower curtain plastic...

-- 
andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/

Play Internet Argument-Losing Bingo!
<http://www.shortpacked.com/d/20060405.html>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] plastic fabric conundrum
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Status: RO

I've used Aleene's "Jewel-It" fabric glue to set plastic gems on my
daughter's socks. Lasted for YEARS, through multiple washings, and got
passed on to another little girl. So, any of her washable types should work
really well.


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 10:32 AM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] plastic fabric conundrum


Gentle costumes,
I got a note from a friend about an odd fabric, and, hmmm, I dont have
any help to offer at all.  I've never seen this strange phenomena
before.  Perhaps someone on h-cost can make a suggestion?
I'll be sure to pass your words along.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Here is a picture of the fabric that's melting on my needle...
http://oort.com/goddess/temp/temp.fabric.jpg

I bought a nifty fabric that shimmers, intending to make a shower curtain
or curtains.  It's a background of stretchy thin knit, with 1/2 cm squares
of plastic all over it.  (If you cut thin slices and pull them, they turn
into the interesting "snakes" pictured in the foreground, which might make
cute cat toys.)  But when I tried to sew a simple hem, the thread kept
breaking.  Turns out, the plastic is melting on my machine's needle!

I tried sewing slower, with bigger stitches, but that didn't help.  I can
sew about 5' when the machine is cold, before the needle is irrevokably
gummed up.  I tried sewing slowly, and occationally sewing through linen
soaked in acetone to clean the needle, but met with limited success.
Besides, I'm afraid I'll damage my new Singer.

This puts a kink into plans I had to sew interesting things out of clear
shower curtains, too!  Does anyone have experience sewing plastic-y things
who can give me advice on what to do?  Otherwise it looks like hand-sewing
is tne only answer!

Best wishes,
Renee (or Wendy)
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Subject: 1680 Bonnet?  Att Migration Bird [h-cost] Re: bonnet / coif
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 18:06:42 -0700
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Status: RO

Hi , Iam not seeing the item you refer to.  Can you be more specific?  They 
have item numbers.

Thanx,
Sg


>From: Migrationbird@aol.com
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: bonnet / coif
>Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 09:11:02 EST
>
>In a message dated 2/10/07 7:02:14 PM GMT Standard Time,
>h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>
> > Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 13:26:50 -0700
> > From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Toddler  Bonnet/Coif construction? 1600-1640
> > To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <BAY133-DAV141FED53430B8D918877CDD29C0@phx.gbl>
> > Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Anyone have specific sources on the construction of Toddler 
>bonnet's/coifs
> > during this period?  Not having any back views I was just going to 
>follow
> > these apparent constructions from 18th/19th century vintage garments.
> >
> > Items 6212 and 1855 on this page:  
>http://www.vintagetextile.com/early.htm
> >
> >
>Sara did you see the 1680s bonnet on this site under  Gallery early. 
>Regards
>Joy
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] plastic fabric conundrum
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Status: RO

Sounds like it's principally a problem with friction, and if sewing
as slowly as possible doesn't help then unfortunately it probably
means the machine is just too fast at any speed.
Is it possible to get more slippery needles? Stainless steel or
chrome plated perhaps (I don't do much machine sewing)?
Or to oil the needle? You'd probably have to stop frequently
and reapply more oil as you went. Acetone is probably not
helping as it may be eating into the needle a bit, making the
surface of the metal rougher. You should try brand new
needles, with as small a diameter as possible (ie fine
ordinary needles, not ballpoint/stretch needles).
Another suggestion is to make the fabric as taut as possible
while sewing (eg put it in an embroidery hoop) as this will
reduce the contact time between needle and fabric and
may lessen the friction.

Claire

> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:31:34 -0800
> From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] plastic fabric conundrum
> To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <edcaf0220702121031w6c00179eq8c76eb40fb8ffb4@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Gentle costumes,
> I got a note from a friend about an odd fabric, and, hmmm, I dont have
> any help to offer at all.  I've never seen this strange phenomena
> before.  Perhaps someone on h-cost can make a suggestion?
> I'll be sure to pass your words along.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
> Here is a picture of the fabric that's melting on my needle...
> http://oort.com/goddess/temp/temp.fabric.jpg
>
> I bought a nifty fabric that shimmers, intending to make a shower curtain
> or curtains.  It's a background of stretchy thin knit, with 1/2 cm squares
> of plastic all over it.  (If you cut thin slices and pull them, they turn
> into the interesting "snakes" pictured in the foreground, which might make
> cute cat toys.)  But when I tried to sew a simple hem, the thread kept
> breaking.  Turns out, the plastic is melting on my machine's needle!
>
> I tried sewing slower, with bigger stitches, but that didn't help.  I can
> sew about 5' when the machine is cold, before the needle is irrevokably
> gummed up.  I tried sewing slowly, and occationally sewing through linen
> soaked in acetone to clean the needle, but met with limited success.
> Besides, I'm afraid I'll damage my new Singer.
>
> This puts a kink into plans I had to sew interesting things out of clear
> shower curtains, too!  Does anyone have experience sewing plastic-y things
> who can give me advice on what to do?  Otherwise it looks like hand-sewing
> is tne only answer!
>
> Best wishes,
> Renee (or Wendy)
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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>
> End of h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 76
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Subject: Re: 1680 Bonnet?  Att Migration Bird [h-cost] Re: bonnet / coif
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Status: RO

On Monday 12 February 2007 8:06 pm, Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> Hi , Iam not seeing the item you refer to.  Can you be more specific?  They
> have item numbers.

And she gave them:  6212 and 1855; they're one after the other, about 
three-quarters of the way down the page.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] plastic fabric conundrum
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--- Claire Clarke <angharad@adam.com.au> wrote:

> Acetone is probably not helping as it may be eating
> into the needle a bit, making the surface of the
> metal rougher. 

Acetone is probably NOT 'Eating' the needle At All, as
acetone in neutral in pH and not reactive to metal
sewing machine needles.

If the sewing machine needle is coated with any
polymeric or organic material, acetone will help to
remove it.

Which is why acetone will help (briefly) by removing
the nasty glue from the sequined fabric which coats
the needle.

The longest c.24 yards of straight stitching I've ever
done were of this material, cleaning the needle off
(once I discovered the problem by the thread's
repeated breaking) approximately every 16mm. XP

Ann in CT


 
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 12:06 PM
Subject: 1680 Bonnet? Att Migration Bird [h-cost] Re: bonnet / coif


> Hi , Iam not seeing the item you refer to.  Can you be more specific? 
> They have item numbers.
>
> Thanx,
> Sg
>
I think the one Joy was referring to is the third row down right hand column 
on this page http://www.vintagetextile.com/gallery_early.htm
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Odd fabric
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Status: RO

I've sewed this stuff and had no problems.  I suspect that it's not 
really "melting", it's the glue from the squares getting onto the 
needle.  The little mylar squares are glued/fused to the knit.  The 
fabric I had didn't have this problem - I suspect she got a defective 
or otherwise bad chunk of fabric.  Yes, the glue can get on the 
needle, but it shouldn't come off that badly.

If it's just to hem it for a shower curtain, I'd suggest glue.  And 
ditch the rest of the fabric, chances are if you made a garment out 
of it, (besides the hassle of sewing it) the little glitzy squares 
would start falling off the first time you wore it.

And PLEASE, PLEASE, DON'T make cat toys out of it - the squares would 
come off and the cat would swallow them - BAD!  BAD!

HTH,
Sandy

At 01:12 PM 2/12/2007, you wrote:

>Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:31:34 -0800
>From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] plastic fabric conundrum
>
>Gentle costumes,
>I got a note from a friend about an odd fabric...
>I'll be sure to pass your words along.
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
>Here is a picture of the fabric that's melting on my needle...
>http://oort.com/goddess/temp/temp.fabric.jpg
>
>I bought a nifty fabric that shimmers, intending to make a shower curtain
>or curtains.  It's a background of stretchy thin knit, with 1/2 cm squares
>of plastic all over it.  (If you cut thin slices and pull them, they turn
>into the interesting "snakes" pictured in the foreground, which might make
>cute cat toys.)  But when I tried to sew a simple hem, the thread kept
>breaking.  Turns out, the plastic is melting on my machine's needle!
>
>I tried sewing slower, with bigger stitches, but that didn't help.  I can
>sew about 5' when the machine is cold, before the needle is irrevokably
>gummed up.  I tried sewing slowly, and occationally sewing through linen
>soaked in acetone to clean the needle, but met with limited success.
>Besides, I'm afraid I'll damage my new Singer.
>
>Best wishes,
>Renee (or Wendy)

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Status: RO

Apologies to everyone else for the bandwidth, but would Michelle M., Anne
M., Elena House, and 
Beth Matney please contact me privately?  These are folks who were
interested in the Janet Arnold 
article that I have.  My computer melted down a couple of weeks ago, and I
have lost your 
addresses.

Thanks,
Melanie

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Subject: [h-cost] silk filament thread
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Status: RO

	
              I have just returned to the list after 7 years or so.
     Does any body know where I can buy silk filament thread. I am  
tailoring a suit and prefer using silk thread for it's ability to  
sink into the fabric for a flat seam.
              I have searched around the SF Bay Area and on the net  
but can't find any except one web site that wanted $144. for about a  
dozen mixed colors.
                       What I need is silk filament thread in white,  
black, ecru, and maybe maroon. The thread diameter same as typical  
polyester thread.
                                      I have a yellowed old Chronicle  
article by Sandra Betzina Webster (POWER SEWING)where she praises the  
superiority of silk filament over the ordinary silk twist like  
Guttermann. It's a long article giving lots of info, but she makes it  
seem like it is very common and easily found.
                            Any ideas?
                                                                       T 
hanks  Larry Kincaid

  
                          
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Status: RO

D'oh!  <head smack>

And then there are the days you just wish you had read the entire post
before looking like an idiot.

Try the YLI.

Mari
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk filament thread
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Status: RO

Lawrence Kincaid Jr. wrote:
>     
>
>                       What I need is silk filament thread in white,  
> black, ecru, and maybe maroon. The thread diameter same as typical  
> polyester thread.

Is this the sort of thing you're looking for?

"Silk 100 Plus YRN 950-100
$4.85

     * 100 silk weight
     * Colors=Natural and black
     * 200 meter spool
     * 2 ply tight Z twist
     * 100% filament silk thread
     * Label Color: white

This Silk 100 Plus thread was originally engineered by the Japanese as a 
machine embroidery thread. However, we have also discovered it to This 
is the best, all purpose silk thread we have ever encountered. This 
astonishingly strong, thin 2 ply filament silk is not only a gorgeous 
machine embroidery thread but is stronger than much thicker sewing 
machine threads.And it does perform well on all types of fabrics. "

http://www.silkthings.com/catalog.php?cat=001



Dawn

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Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 14:30:47 -0500
From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk filament thread
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Status: RO

Hi there... ok.

 I have seen silk thread that is reeled, thrown, and plied.
And all has been described as silk filament.  So I am *guessing* you
mean a thread, with twist but not plied.

First thoughts are be for Gutermann silk thread.  They have a 30wt.
Red Rock Threads carries it, as well as some of the better fabric
stores.

YLI also has a collection of 50wt and 100wt silk threads.  The 50wt is
one of my favorites to work with.  Again, Red Rock Threads or
LaceMakerUSA.

Mari


On 2/13/07, Lawrence Kincaid Jr. <jr0218@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>               I have just returned to the list after 7 years or so.
>      Does any body know where I can buy silk filament thread. I am
> tailoring a suit and prefer using silk thread for it's ability to
> sink into the fabric for a flat seam.
>               I have searched around the SF Bay Area and on the net
> but can't find any except one web site that wanted $144. for about a
> dozen mixed colors.
>                        What I need is silk filament thread in white,
> black, ecru, and maybe maroon. The thread diameter same as typical
> polyester thread.
>                                       I have a yellowed old Chronicle
> article by Sandra Betzina Webster (POWER SEWING)where she praises the
> superiority of silk filament over the ordinary silk twist like
> Guttermann. It's a long article giving lots of info, but she makes it
> seem like it is very common and easily found.
>                             Any ideas?
>                                                                        T
> hanks  Larry Kincaid
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Last 6 Stepping Through Time
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Status: RO

Ian Stevens - DBBC [ian.stevens@dbbcdist.com] of David Brown book company
says they have the last 6 of the book titled:  Stepping Through Time;
Archeological footwear from prehistoric times until 1800 by Olaf Goubitz.
They are priced at $100.  Amazon has them used and new from $167.  Lots of
shoe patterns, and where they came from by an expert in the field.

He does not expect them to be re-published.


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
...whatever you've done, whatever you've been, is all, totally, one
hundred percent, your own fault.


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From: Jodi Nelson <faerieglenstudios@yahoo.com>
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I use the YLI myself, especially for hand applique and quilt binding.

Jodi 

 
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Subject: [h-cost] Regency Weekend at Riversdale House Museum
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Status: RO

 
 
 
 
Riversdale is proud to announce a Ladies' Regency Weekend 
April 20-21,  2007

The Riversdale House Museum hosts this women's only event. It begins  Friday 
evening; guests bring their own bedding to stay overnight. Saturday  offers a 
selection of costume, decorative arts, literature, and cooking  activities, 
including hands-on workshops. The weekend concludes with supper  and 
merriment, informal dancing, and games, with gentlemen invited to join  on 
Saturday 
night.
$65 includes all meals and most activities (there is a  kit fee for one 
workshop). $25 for Saturday night guests. Advance payment is  required by 
April 
15. 
Riversdale, a National Historic Landmark, is  located at 4811 Riverdale Road 
in Riverdale Park, Maryland, a suburb of  Washington, DC.

Please email me privately and I can snail mail you a  brochure or email a pdf 
one.
Some people have trouble with my aol  address: __annbwass@aol._an_ 
(mailto:_annbwass@aol.com) _ 
(mailto:_annbwass@aol.ann_ (mailto:annbwass@aol.com) ) 
If that bounces,  please try __ann.wass@pgparks._an_ 
(mailto:_ann.wass@pgparks.com) _  
(mailto:_ann.wass@pgparks.ann_ (mailto:ann.wass@pgparks.com) ) .
Or call  301-864-0420.

Ann Wass



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From: Kay Shelton <delasue@yahoo.com>
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The group may be interested in this book:

Creator Lacroix, Paul
Title   Manners, Custom and Dress During the Middle
Ages
and During the Renaissance Period
Language        English
EText-No.       10940
Release Date    2004-02-01
Copyright Status        Not copyrighted in the United
States.
If you live elsewhere check the laws of your country
before downloading this ebook.
http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/10940

Enjoy!  Kay


 
____________________________________________________________________________________
Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.
Ask your question on www.Answers.yahoo.com
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Status: RO


Speaking of Traveling ...

I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th)

What should I see there?  (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific  
recommendations?)

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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In a message dated 2/15/2007 7:15:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:

I'm  going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th)

What should I see  there?  (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific   
recommendations?)




If you have any interest that way, American Girl Place.  I enjoyed  watching 
the people there as much as anything.  Saw a group with 2 or 3  girls and 
their dolls all in matching dresses obviously homemade from a 1960s  floral print, 
for example.
 
Ann Wass
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On Feb 15, 2007, at 4:14 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th)
>
> What should I see there?  (yeah, the fabric district, got any  
> specific recommendations?)

I've been out of the midwest for quite a few years, but...

Vogue fabrics in Evanston is pretty cool.

The Aurora Bleachery in Aurora used to have a fabulous remnant shop.  
Cotton and poly-cotton solids sold by the pound.

-- 
andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen
http://www.bovil.com/
"It's not pink; it's peach-colored. Pink is tacky."  --Manfred  
Pfirsich Marie Rommel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations
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Status: RO

I second the recommendation for Vogue Fabrics in Evanston. It's probably=
 one of the best fabric stores in the country.
I also recommend that you consider visiting Bristol RenFaire which will =
be opening the weekend of July 7&8. =

Karen
Seamstrix

-- "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com> wrote:


Speaking of Traveling ...

I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th)

What should I see there?  (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific  =
=

recommendations?)

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Status: RO

Quoting Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>:

> On Feb 15, 2007, at 4:14 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>> I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th)
>>
>> What should I see there?  (yeah, the fabric district, got any   
>> specific recommendations?)
>
> I've been out of the midwest for quite a few years, but...
>
> Vogue fabrics in Evanston is pretty cool.
>
> The Aurora Bleachery in Aurora used to have a fabulous remnant shop.
> Cotton and poly-cotton solids sold by the pound.

There's a place in Georgia that sells stuff by the pound too.  I  
understand that's a great way to find stuff!

Thanks for the recommendation.  I was going to fly up, but I think  
I"ll drive ...

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Quoting "penhalion@juno.com" <penhalion@juno.com>:

> I second the recommendation for Vogue Fabrics in Evanston. It's   
> probably one of the best fabric stores in the country.
> I also recommend that you consider visiting Bristol RenFaire which   
> will be opening the weekend of July 7&8.

I just might be able to swing that.  I've never been to a Real  
Ren-Faire.  We had one local for like 2 years, but it was *very* tiny.  
  SCA events, and Gulf War, yes, but never a Ren Faire.

Thanks for the tip!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Ann,
Do you know what workshop requires the kit fee?

Kathy Norvell
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Status: RO

Of course, to fully appreciate the Ren Faire experience, you should go in
costume!
Sharon (aka Baroness Hunsdon at some faires here in CA)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 6:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations


Quoting "penhalion@juno.com" <penhalion@juno.com>:

> I second the recommendation for Vogue Fabrics in Evanston. It's   
> probably one of the best fabric stores in the country.
> I also recommend that you consider visiting Bristol RenFaire which   
> will be opening the weekend of July 7&8.

I just might be able to swing that.  I've never been to a Real  
Ren-Faire.  We had one local for like 2 years, but it was *very* tiny.  
  SCA events, and Gulf War, yes, but never a Ren Faire.

Thanks for the tip!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Quoting Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com>:

> Of course, to fully appreciate the Ren Faire experience, you should go in
> costume!

Of course!  Italian?

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Status: RO

I suggest
Textile Discount Outlet 
2121 West 21st Street, Chicago, IL 60608 
(773) 847-0572 

Fabulous place, shopped there frequently when I lived in the western suburbs of Chicago. All sorts of fabric, findings, aplliques, beads......
Wendy

-----Original Message-----
>From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
>Sent: Feb 15, 2007 7:14 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations
>
>
>Speaking of Traveling ...
>
>I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th)
>
>What should I see there?  (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific  
>recommendations?)

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Status: RO

http://www.artic.edu/aic/collections/textiles/index.php

Art Institute of Chicago has an extensive textile collection.



Last time I was there they had an incredible lace exhibit. 

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 5:14 PM
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations


> 
> Speaking of Traveling ...
> 
> I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th)
> 
> What should I see there?  (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific  
> recommendations?)
> 
> susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
> 
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations
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Status: RO

Quoting Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>:

> http://www.artic.edu/aic/collections/textiles/index.php
>
> Art Institute of Chicago has an extensive textile collection.
>

WooHoo!

>
>
> Last time I was there they had an incredible lace exhibit.
>

*bummer*

"The textile galleries are currently closed for the duration of the  
construction of the new building."

*sigh*

But there's Other Stuff -- and A Gift Shop, I"m sure!  I would have  
*loved* to have seen that!  Msybe it will be open by July.

Thanks!
susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: [h-cost] Child's costume - lappets?
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Status: RO

Do any of you know of some sources which discuss the pieces of cloth 
(typically from the shoulder or sleeve scye) hanging from a child's costume? 
I need some reference material to support my discussion and can't seem to 
find anything specifically in my books. I have always referred to them as 
lappets....maybe this is why I can't find the reference?

You can see it in the following picture.

http://www.thinker.org/imagebase_zoom.asp?rec=6259302223530010

Or http://tinyurl.com/3y4vr6


It makes sense to me, and I seem to recall they were used to hang on to 
kids.  This one shows a rope attached to the small child.

http://tinyurl.com/3eyaqz 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Child's costume - lappets?
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 15:46:52 +0000
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Status: RO

IIRC, They are called Leading Strings...
Hope that helps,
Gia
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com> 

> Do any of you know of some sources which discuss the pieces of cloth 
> (typically from the shoulder or sleeve scye) hanging from a child's costume? 
> I need some reference material to support my discussion and can't seem to 
> find anything specifically in my books. I have always referred to them as 
> lappets....maybe this is why I can't find the reference? 
> 
> You can see it in the following picture. 
> 
> http://www.thinker.org/imagebase_zoom.asp?rec=6259302223530010 
> 
> Or http://tinyurl.com/3y4vr6 
> 
> 
> It makes sense to me, and I seem to recall they were used to hang on to 
> kids. This one shows a rope attached to the small child. 
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/3eyaqz 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Status: RO

I believe they are usually referred to leading bands or leading strings.=
 Lappets are usually a part of a woman's cap. =

Here's an article that referrs to them as part of children's costume:
http://www.history.org/history/clothing/children/child01.cfm

Karen
Seamstrix
 =


-- "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
Do any of you know of some sources which discuss the pieces of cloth =

(typically from the shoulder or sleeve scye) hanging from a child's cost=
ume? =

I need some reference material to support my discussion and can't seem t=
o =

find anything specifically in my books. I have always referred to them a=
s =

lappets....maybe this is why I can't find the reference?

You can see it in the following picture.

http://www.thinker.org/imagebase_zoom.asp?rec=3D6259302223530010

Or http://tinyurl.com/3y4vr6


It makes sense to me, and I seem to recall they were used to hang on to =
=

kids.  This one shows a rope attached to the small child.

http://tinyurl.com/3eyaqz =


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Child's costume - lappets?
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Status: RO

Leading strings is the term I've always heard for what you describe. 
 
Lappets are long[ish] bands of lace or needlework that fall in pairs from  
the back [or side] of a cap. You see them on ladies in the late 1600's through a 
 good deal of the 1700's. And now that I think of it, are they not part of a  
Gable Hood? Fabric that hangs down the side. Jane Seymour famously had one  
pinned up in her portrait. Are they not called lappets too?
 
So I can see how leading strings could indeed be called lappets,  simply 
because they resemble lappets on head gear. Y'know, like Coif...which  refers to 
different things in different periods, but there's a logic to the  
nomenclature. But the more common term is leading strings for what you describe  on a 
child's costume.
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Status: RO

Try leading strings...lappets were lace extensions on the back of ladies 
caps in the 18th century.

Kelly,





An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign.


Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician





>From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Child's costume - lappets?
>Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 08:27:02 -0700
>
>Do any of you know of some sources which discuss the pieces of cloth
>(typically from the shoulder or sleeve scye) hanging from a child's 
>costume?
>I need some reference material to support my discussion and can't seem to
>find anything specifically in my books. I have always referred to them as
>lappets....maybe this is why I can't find the reference?
>
>You can see it in the following picture.
>
>http://www.thinker.org/imagebase_zoom.asp?rec=6259302223530010
>
>Or http://tinyurl.com/3y4vr6
>
>
>It makes sense to me, and I seem to recall they were used to hang on to
>kids.  This one shows a rope attached to the small child.
>
>http://tinyurl.com/3eyaqz
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Yes'm, and I will be snail mailing the flyer to you and the others on my  
list in a week or so.  However, I'll attach the pdf right now.
 
I'm offering a hands-on, straw bonnet workshop, limited to the first 6 to  
sign up and pay, and the kit fee is $7, payable at the event.  (Because  I've 
been accumulating the materials for a while, on my own dime.)
 
Ann

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In a message dated 2/16/2007 5:47:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

Yes'm,  and I will be snail mailing the flyer to you and the others on my   
list in a week or so.  However, I'll attach the pdf right  now.

I'm offering a hands-on, straw bonnet workshop, limited to the  first 6 to  
sign up and pay, and the kit fee is $7, payable at the  event.  (Because  
I've 
been accumulating the materials for a  while, on my own dime.)

Ann



So sorry--that reply was supposed to go privately!!!!
A.W.
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 19:38:03 -0800
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No, English. I play the wife of Henry Carey, first cousin to Elizabeth I.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 10:42 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations


Quoting Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com>:

> Of course, to fully appreciate the Ren Faire experience, you should go in
> costume!

Of course!  Italian?

Susan
-----
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sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Do you have a costume already? 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 7:38 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations


No, English. I play the wife of Henry Carey, first cousin to Elizabeth I.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 10:42 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations


Quoting Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com>:

> Of course, to fully appreciate the Ren Faire experience, you should go in
> costume!

Of course!  Italian?

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Quoting Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com>:

> Do you have a costume already?

Italian.  I play in the SCA ....

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Susan,

I third the recommendation for Vogue fabrics.  Huge place with tons 
of stuff.  You can check them out ahead of time:

<http://www.voguefabricsstore.com>VogueFabricsStore.com

Also check out the Sari district - I'm not sure where it is exactly 
(we were in a group), but I'm sure someone here can narrow it 
down.  That was the place I finally found a salwar kameez set that 
was both in a color I liked and in my size (large - XL to XXL and 
tall - 5' 11")  DH got a suit too.  But it's not just limited to 
clothing - picked up lots of saris for fabric and fabric lengths also.

HTH,
Sandy

At 09:47 AM 2/16/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 19:14:20 -0500
>From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations
>
>Speaking of Traveling ...
>
>I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th)
>
>What should I see there?  (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific
>recommendations?)
>
>susan

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Chicago trip
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On Fri, 16 Feb 2007, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:

> Also check out the Sari district - I'm not sure where it is exactly
> (we were in a group), but I'm sure someone here can narrow it down.

Almost certainly Devon street (avenue?). When I lived near there, Devon
was a mix of Indian and Orthodox Jewish neighborhood, which made the lunch
choices very interesting. Good spice shops too.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Child's costume - Lappets
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Status: RO

 Anne Buck's 'Clothes & the Child' has several index references to leading 
strings and hanging sleeves which seem relevant.

Ruth Bean

| >From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
| >Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
| >To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
| >Subject: [h-cost] Child's costume - lappets?
| >Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2007 08:27:02 -0700
| >
| >Do any of you know of some sources which discuss the pieces of cloth
| >(typically from the shoulder or sleeve scye) hanging from a child's
| >costume?
| >I need some reference material to support my discussion and can't seem to
| >find anything specifically in my books. I have always referred to them as
| >lappets....maybe this is why I can't find the reference?

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If you are looking for something other than fabric stuff and you like zoos, Chicago had 2 really nice zoos. You can't go wrong with either Lincoln Park or Brookfield, although Brookfield is larger.
Wendy
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The main Indian area in Chicago is on the Northside on Devon Ave between=
 Western Ave. and California Ave. There's tons of sari shops, lots of In=
dian style jewelry shops, and fabulous Indian restaurants. =

 =

Karen
Seamstrix

-- Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net> wrote:
Susan,

I third the recommendation for Vogue fabrics.  Huge place with tons =

of stuff.  You can check them out ahead of time:

<http://www.voguefabricsstore.com>VogueFabricsStore.com

Also check out the Sari district - I'm not sure where it is exactly =

(we were in a group), but I'm sure someone here can narrow it =

down.  That was the place I finally found a salwar kameez set that =

was both in a color I liked and in my size (large - XL to XXL and =

tall - 5' 11")  DH got a suit too.  But it's not just limited to =

clothing - picked up lots of saris for fabric and fabric lengths also.

HTH,
Sandy

At 09:47 AM 2/16/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 19:14:20 -0500
>From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations
>
>Speaking of Traveling ...
>
>I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th)
>
>What should I see there?  (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific
>recommendations?)
>
>susan

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  =



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Chicago trip
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Quoting Wendy Colbert <rapierlady@earthlink.net>:

> If you are looking for something other than fabric stuff and you   
> like zoos, Chicago had 2 really nice zoos. You can't go wrong with   
> either Lincoln Park or Brookfield, although Brookfield is larger.

Probably will.  The meeting is at the Museum of Natural History ...

:-D

susan
-----
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sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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BYW, thank you to everyone who's offered suggestions.  I've not  
responded to each of you individually -- and I don't want to clutter  
the list with a "thanks" to each individual email ...

so *THANKS*

susan
-----
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Does anyone know the address of the used Japanese kimono outlet in
Chicago?

Kathy

>>> Wendy Colbert <rapierlady@earthlink.net> 02/16/07 6:50 AM >>>
I suggest
Textile Discount Outlet 
2121 West 21st Street, Chicago, IL 60608 
(773) 847-0572 

Fabulous place, shopped there frequently when I lived in the western
suburbs of Chicago. All sorts of fabric, findings, aplliques,
beads......
Wendy

-----Original Message-----
>From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
>Sent: Feb 15, 2007 7:14 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations
>
>
>Speaking of Traveling ...
>
>I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th)
>
>What should I see there?  (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific 

>recommendations?)

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] 2,6 oz silk taffeta
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Hi,
Could someone help me out with this. A silk taffeta with the weight of 2,6 
oz would that be a very light thin silk taffeta?

Thanks in advance

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000501c7542c$af09fcb0$3914a150@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2,6 oz silk taffeta
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2007 08:26:55 -0700
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I'd think so, Bjarne....the "handkerchief" linen I use for shifts and veils
is 3.1 oz, and it's fairly light.  A little more substantial than my ideal
(for handkerchief linen), but considered lightweight, nonetheless.
--Sue in Montana
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 6:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 2,6 oz silk taffeta


> Hi,
> Could someone help me out with this. A silk taffeta with the weight of 2,6
> oz would that be a very light thin silk taffeta?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2,6 oz silk taffeta
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2007 16:56:45 +0100
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Status: RO

Dear Sue,
Thanks for this. It was Denver Fabrics silk taffeta, then i understand the 
cheap prices. I guess its fitted for shirts and blouses, not dresses.

Thanks

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2,6 oz silk taffeta


> I'd think so, Bjarne....the "handkerchief" linen I use for shifts and 
> veils
> is 3.1 oz, and it's fairly light.  A little more substantial than my ideal
> (for handkerchief linen), but considered lightweight, nonetheless.
> --Sue in Montana
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 6:48 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] 2,6 oz silk taffeta
>
>
>> Hi,
>> Could someone help me out with this. A silk taffeta with the weight of 
>> 2,6
>> oz would that be a very light thin silk taffeta?
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2,6 oz silk taffeta
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In a message dated 2/19/2007 10:56:53 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

I guess  its fitted for shirts and blouses, not  dresses.




*************
 
I'll bet you could make a drop-dead gorgeous 1930's bias cut dress out  of 
it! Not to mention an early 1800's frock.
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] WOOOHOOOO!!!
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Status: RO

Sorry but its so quiet here on the list, and i just had to share.
I have finnished! with the anglaise dress.
I dont know if you have had the same feeling as i have now, but this dress 
is f...... beautifull. Its my masterpiece ever.
I shall rush home from work tomorrow with a big box from the postoffice to 
send it in, and i shall take some nice pictures in the daylight, its evening 
now, and the flash pictures are bad.
God i am so happy, and its nice to get it send away so that i can have my 
mind focused on the new dress i am going to make....................

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
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Status: RO

Well I am looking forward to see the pictures!
I thought you didn't want to make dresses anymore ;-) .

Greetings,
       Deredere

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Sorry but its so quiet here on the list, and i just had to share.
> I have finnished! with the anglaise dress.
> I dont know if you have had the same feeling as i have now, but this 
> dress is f...... beautifull. Its my masterpiece ever.
> I shall rush home from work tomorrow with a big box from the 
> postoffice to send it in, and i shall take some nice pictures in the 
> daylight, its evening now, and the flash pictures are bad.
> God i am so happy, and its nice to get it send away so that i can have 
> my mind focused on the new dress i am going to make....................
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] WOOOHOOOO!!!
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Status: RO

Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>:

> Sorry but its so quiet here on the list, and i just had to share.
> I have finnished! with the anglaise dress.
> I dont know if you have had the same feeling as i have now, but this
> dress is f...... beautifull. Its my masterpiece ever.
> I shall rush home from work tomorrow with a big box from the postoffice
> to send it in, and i shall take some nice pictures in the daylight, its
> evening now, and the flash pictures are bad.
> God i am so happy, and its nice to get it send away so that i can have
> my mind focused on the new dress i am going to make....................
>

WooHoo!  Can't wait for the pictures!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
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Status: RO

I too have felt that feeling!

Congratulations!

Whoot!

Kelly



An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign.


Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician





>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] WOOOHOOOO!!!
>Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2007 21:22:03 +0100
>
>Sorry but its so quiet here on the list, and i just had to share.
>I have finnished! with the anglaise dress.
>I dont know if you have had the same feeling as i have now, but this dress 
>is f...... beautifull. Its my masterpiece ever.
>I shall rush home from work tomorrow with a big box from the postoffice to 
>send it in, and i shall take some nice pictures in the daylight, its 
>evening now, and the flash pictures are bad.
>God i am so happy, and its nice to get it send away so that i can have my 
>mind focused on the new dress i am going to make....................
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_________________________________________________________________
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After costuming college and university productions for over 25 years and community theatre(small stage) productions for seven years, I have been asked to costume in modern (today) dress for high end professional women in a comedy. Is there a list that would be helpful; any suggestions of mags, books, etc? Any help would be appreciated. 
Audrey Chase

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reference please
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At 03:26 PM 2/19/2007, you wrote:
>After costuming college and university productions for over 25 years 
>and community theatre(small stage) productions for seven years, I 
>have been asked to costume in modern (today) dress for high end 
>professional women in a comedy. Is there a list that would be 
>helpful; any suggestions of mags, books, etc? Any help would be appreciated.
>Audrey Chase
>
>in the high boonies of Central Texas

If it were me, I'd look at recent issues of Vogue.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reference please
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On Mon, 19 Feb 2007, Joan Jurancich wrote:

> If it were me, I'd look at recent issues of Vogue.

Does anyone wear what's in Vogue?

I'd look at any photos of *real* high-end professional women, say in
Forbes, or even Working Woman. Or just go down to Talbot's or Nordstrom's.

--Robin

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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reference please
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Status: RO

Depending on just HOW high end these prof. women were, I'd consult a  
Talbot's catalog. They used to be where all the state-level female  
politicians and lawyers bought their suits. Another good place to  
check would be Nordstrom.com, especially, just now, their spring work- 
fashion update pages: http://shop.nordstrom.com/C/ 
6007068/0~2376776~2374327~6007068? 
mediumthumbnail=Y&origin=leftnav&pbo=2374327
Good luck!
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Feb 19, 2007, at 6:26 PM, AVC wrote:

> After costuming college and university productions for over 25  
> years and community theatre(small stage) productions for seven  
> years, I have been asked to costume in modern (today) dress for  
> high end professional women in a comedy. Is there a list that would  
> be helpful; any suggestions of mags, books, etc? Any help would be  
> appreciated.
> Audrey Chase
>
> in the high boonies of Central Texas
>
> ________________________________________
> PeoplePC Online
> A better way to Internet
> http://www.peoplepc.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

Look for a recent "dress for success" book. I think the 
every-career-woman-must-wear-suits look is out.  It  depends a lot on 
the specific profession--a bank manager does not dress like a department 
store buyer even if their incomes might be similar.  _Style_ magazine is 
good, being more practically oriented than _Vogue_. It frequently has 
articles with detailed information and pictures for different ages, 
activities, seasons of the year, body types, etc.

Talbot's is, in my view, for middle-aged conservative middle-income (not 
especially high-income) woman, not necessarily professional.  They have 
a lot of vaguely preppy casual clothes for housewives. They're quite 
dowdy, actually.

Nordstrom's is much classier and more stylish. Try www.nordstrom.com. 
Another place to look is Bloomingdale's--www.bloomingdales.com.  I'd 
call Bloomingdale's online and catalog selection a conservative form of 
expensive-stylish.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Lauren Walker wrote:

> Depending on just HOW high end these prof. women were, I'd consult a  
> Talbot's catalog. They used to be where all the state-level female  
> politicians and lawyers bought their suits. Another good place to  check 
> would be Nordstrom.com, especially, just now, their spring work- fashion 
> update pages: http://shop.nordstrom.com/C/ 
> 6007068/0~2376776~2374327~6007068? 
> mediumthumbnail=Y&origin=leftnav&pbo=2374327
> Good luck!
> Lauren
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
> 
> 
> 
> On Feb 19, 2007, at 6:26 PM, AVC wrote:
> 
>> After costuming college and university productions for over 25  years 
>> and community theatre(small stage) productions for seven  years, I 
>> have been asked to costume in modern (today) dress for  high end 
>> professional women in a comedy. Is there a list that would  be 
>> helpful; any suggestions of mags, books, etc? Any help would be  
>> appreciated.
>> Audrey Chase
>>
>> in the high boonies of Central Texas
>>
>> ________________________________________
>> PeoplePC Online
>> A better way to Internet
>> http://www.peoplepc.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Mon, 19 Feb 2007, Joan Jurancich wrote:
> 
> 
>>If it were me, I'd look at recent issues of Vogue.
> 
> 
> Does anyone wear what's in Vogue?

Not to work.

If there were going to be scenes taking place at a society event, or 
party, that'd be a good source. They have a website.

> 
> I'd look at any photos of *real* high-end professional women, say in
> Forbes, or even Working Woman. Or just go down to Talbot's or Nordstrom's.
> 

Or look at female congressional representatives.



Dawn


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What's the play?

Sylrog

On Feb 19, 2007, at 4:26 PM, AVC wrote:

> After costuming college and university productions for over 25 years 
> and community theatre(small stage) productions for seven years, I have 
> been asked to costume in modern (today) dress for high end 
> professional women in a comedy. Is there a list that would be helpful; 
> any suggestions of mags, books, etc? Any help would be appreciated.
> Audrey Chase
>
> in the high boonies of Central Texas
>
> ________________________________________
> PeoplePC Online
> A better way to Internet
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Feb 19 20:06:41 2007
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FW: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint
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Status: RO

The first time this book came around, I ordered a dozen copies directly
from Italy -- from an Italian bookseller, not the publisher.  Since I
bought in quantity, I got a decent discount.  They took Visa so payment
was easy.  I sold them locally (no additional shipping costs involved)
for $75/each.  I don't know who might have them now, but if no one in
the US is carrying it, I'd suggest trying European sellers.  Buying
internationally really isn't that big a deal.  I used to find books
semi-professionally and often bought internationally.

--Charlene


Wanda Pease wrote:

> I think we are going to have a better way of getting this book.  David Brown
> books contacted me because I suggested THEY carry it.  That way they can do
> all the work of getting it, pricing it (looks like about $99.50 but don't
> quote me yet) and making it available.  They speak English, they do mail
> order all the time; they take plastic.  I've even known them to make a deal
> where you pay in installments!
> 
> If there was ever a book that those who love the Italian Renaissance either
> in costuming or in history (or both).  You NEED this book!
> 
> Stay tuned to this Group for further developments!
> 
> Regina Romsey
> 
> 
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
>>[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On Behalf Of Sharon Collier
>>Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 10:21 PM
>>To: 'Historical Costume'
>>Subject: RE: [h-cost] FW: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint
>>
>>
>>I want one. How can I reserve it? I tried to contact Polistampa, (in
>>Italian) but I don't know if the email got to them. At least, I haven't
>>heard from them since I sent it a week ago.
>>Sharon C.
>>
>>
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

-- 
There is no way to make people like change.  You can only make them feel
less threatened by it.  -- Frederick O'R. Hayes
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I apologize if this has been posted; I did a scan through the list snd 
didn't see it.

http://www.crochetme.com/blog

Scroll down to "Where Wool Comes From"; there are three videos.

--Charlene

-- 
There is no way to make people like change.  You can only make them feel 
less threatened by it.  -- Frederick O'R. Hayes

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In a message dated 2/19/2007 6:48:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
joanmj@surewest.net writes:

If it  were me, I'd look at recent issues of Vogue.



***************
 
Nah....look at what women in Congress are wearing. Or get a Forbes mag. and  
see what's in the adverts and stuff. Know any high end professional women? 
Call  'em up and ask what they try for when dressing. Ask what they like on 
others  they've seen [and what they don't like]. Ask where everybody shops and get 
a  catalogue. Go to Bloomies or some high end store, tell them you're having 
your  1st big meeting as chairwoman of the board and see what they suggest you 
try  on.[if you can get away with that.]
 
Remember, modern costumes are the HARDEST to do. That's because you cannot  
fudge. It's fresh in the audience's mind and certain items and brands and looks 
 speak loud and clear.
 
A high end professional in LA will not wear the same thing as one in  Dallas. 
And if they're from Europe.....!
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References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10702191848100.25604-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reference please
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Status: RO

I like Town & Country, Bazaar, and W magazines.

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Venetian Carnival
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Status: RO

Happy Mardi Gras or Carnival/Carnivale!

I have been adding to my Library's free access area, my "Carnival in =
Venice" photos from the John and Mable Ringling's C=E0 d'Zan mansion in =
Sarasota, Florida.  John Ringling was one of the brothers who owned the =
Barnum and Bailey Ringling Bros. Circus. The mansion was completed in =
1926 and entertained many popular guests. This "Carnival in Venice" =
mural is located on the C=E0 d'Zan's gameroom ceiling.  This room took =
the majority of the 32-room mansion's third floor.  The Ringling's =
entertained in the gameroom frequently.  The ceiling mural artist, =
William Andrew "Willy" Pogany, was a very popular artist for children's =
book illustrator (Gulliver's Travel, Troy, etc.), and a set and costume =
designer for the Zeigfeld Follies on Broadway.   This series' mural =
images are massive in size and close-up views are available on our =
website's Library.  The murals were painted on canvas by Willy Pogany in =
New York City then brought to the C=E0 d'Zan and installed on the =
gameroom ceiling. Today's addition includes 13 webpages.  These murals =
have not been seen by many people because the visitors' cost is extra to =
view the mansion's gameroom area at the museum. =20

I did a two-week photoshoot of the Ringling Estate and Museum last =
April.  My agreement with the museum was that I put the photos in my =
Library's free access area.  This photoshoot included Ringling Bros. =
1950s circus costumes, their rose garden statutes, the mansion, and Mr. =
Ringling's 1920s NYC Fifth Ave. wardrobe.  I took about 3,000 photos at =
the museum. The gameroom photos were taken while I laid on a blanket and =
pillow on the floor and scooted around.  BTW, the background image for =
the gameroom webpages is the C=E0 d'Zan mansion.=20

You may view the thumbnails on the Library's updates page: =
www.costumegallery.com/updates.htm .  I will have a master index page in =
the next few days.  Under some of the photo enlargement pages, there are =
thumbnails to more enlargements of that image's specific details.   =
There will be SEVERAL more gameroom images added later this week.

If you would prefer individual links, here they are:
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/brownladyw=
hiteclown.htm Couple #1 (3 images with 2 closeups, click on the =
thumbnails for the image close-ups)
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/canopycoup=
le.htm Couple #2 (3 images with 2 closeups, click on the thumbnails for =
the large image for close-ups)
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/couple3.ht=
m couple #3
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/couple4.ht=
m couple #4 (2 images with 1 closeup, click on the thumbnails for the =
large image for close-up)
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/bird1.htm =
bird #1
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/bird2.htm =
bird #2
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/artist1.ht=
m self portrait, Willy Pogany
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/clownstick=
.htm Clown Scepter

Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Venetian Carnival
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Status: RO

The costume gallery asked for username and password. But where do I do that?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 8:46 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Venetian Carnival


Happy Mardi Gras or Carnival/Carnivale!

I have been adding to my Library's free access area, my "Carnival in Venice"
photos from the John and Mable Ringling's Cà d'Zan mansion in Sarasota,
Florida.  John Ringling was one of the brothers who owned the Barnum and
Bailey Ringling Bros. Circus. The mansion was completed in 1926 and
entertained many popular guests. This "Carnival in Venice" mural is located
on the Cà d'Zan's gameroom ceiling.  This room took the majority of the
32-room mansion's third floor.  The Ringling's entertained in the gameroom
frequently.  The ceiling mural artist, William Andrew "Willy" Pogany, was a
very popular artist for children's book illustrator (Gulliver's Travel,
Troy, etc.), and a set and costume designer for the Zeigfeld Follies on
Broadway.   This series' mural images are massive in size and close-up views
are available on our website's Library.  The murals were painted on canvas
by Willy Pogany in New York City then brought to the Cà d'Zan and installed
on the gameroom ceiling. Today's addition includes 13 webpages.  These
murals have not been seen by many people because the visitors' cost is extra
to view the mansion's gameroom area at the museum.  

I did a two-week photoshoot of the Ringling Estate and Museum last April.
My agreement with the museum was that I put the photos in my Library's free
access area.  This photoshoot included Ringling Bros. 1950s circus costumes,
their rose garden statutes, the mansion, and Mr. Ringling's 1920s NYC Fifth
Ave. wardrobe.  I took about 3,000 photos at the museum. The gameroom photos
were taken while I laid on a blanket and pillow on the floor and scooted
around.  BTW, the background image for the gameroom webpages is the Cà d'Zan
mansion. 

You may view the thumbnails on the Library's updates page:
www.costumegallery.com/updates.htm .  I will have a master index page in the
next few days.  Under some of the photo enlargement pages, there are
thumbnails to more enlargements of that image's specific details.   There
will be SEVERAL more gameroom images added later this week.

If you would prefer individual links, here they are:
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/brownladywhit
eclown.htm Couple #1 (3 images with 2 closeups, click on the thumbnails for
the image close-ups)
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/canopycouple.
htm Couple #2 (3 images with 2 closeups, click on the thumbnails for the
large image for close-ups)
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/couple3.htm
couple #3
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/couple4.htm
couple #4 (2 images with 1 closeup, click on the thumbnails for the large
image for close-up)
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/bird1.htm
bird #1
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/bird2.htm
bird #2
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/artist1.htm
self portrait, Willy Pogany
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/clownstick.ht
m Clown Scepter

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000601c754d1$95f3a820$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Venetian Carnival
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 04:58:20 -0500
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Status: RO

Sharon,

The Ringling Carnival of Venice murals does not ask for a password.  Click 
on those thumbnail images from the update page or the links near the end of 
my initial email.  You can also view the of the wire bustle pads webpages on 
the updates page or:
http://www.costumegallery.com/VCU/Photos/bustle/ladies/pads/pad1/wire1.htm
http://www.costumegallery.com/VCU/Photos/bustle/ladies/pads/pad2/wire2.htm
But I am on contract to only show the bustle pads enlargements to Library 
subscribers.  I can only show the thumbnail index pages to the VCU 
collection.
Subscription info is on: http://www.costumegallery.com/librarycard.htm

I am sorry, I didn't intend to promote subscribing in my previous message. 
I am excited to start get the Ringling images online.

I am sorry for being scatterbrained in this message.  I have been up all 
night trying to find livecams of carnival.  I am teaching the history of 
Carnival/Mardi Gras tonight to my class.  If anyone knows of livecams, 
please let me know.  I have the live cams for New Orleans.

It will be a jam-packed lesson tonight.  I am also teaching the 1910s 
decade.  Thank goodness I have three hours for class.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 05:47:17 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reference please
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 2/19/2007 8:14:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

Remember, modern costumes are the HARDEST to do. That's because you  cannot  
fudge. It's fresh in the audience's mind and certain items  and brands and 
looks 
speak loud and clear.




And of course, there is your BUDGET.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2,6 oz silk taffeta
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Status: RO

Which one are you looking at Bjarne?  I used this one for the silk skirt in 
my most recent project and it was great - it is only 2,3 ounces.

http://tinyurl.com/2wg5qn

Sg



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 8:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2,6 oz silk taffeta


> Dear Sue,
> Thanks for this. It was Denver Fabrics silk taffeta, then i understand the
> cheap prices. I guess its fitted for shirts and blouses, not dresses.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 4:26 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 2,6 oz silk taffeta
>
>
> > I'd think so, Bjarne....the "handkerchief" linen I use for shifts and
> > veils
> > is 3.1 oz, and it's fairly light.  A little more substantial than my 
> > ideal
> > (for handkerchief linen), but considered lightweight, nonetheless.
> > --Sue in Montana
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 6:48 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] 2,6 oz silk taffeta
> >
> >
> >> Hi,
> >> Could someone help me out with this. A silk taffeta with the weight of
> >> 2,6
> >> oz would that be a very light thin silk taffeta?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance
> >>
> >> Bjarne
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> >> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >>
> >> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Status: RO

So its ready to be wieved now.
I dont have more bandwidth at the other webpage where i started, but the 
finished pictures are here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780
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Status: RO

Beautiful!!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net 
Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown 
http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 10:10 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780


> So its ready to be wieved now.
> I dont have more bandwidth at the other webpage where i started, but the 
> finished pictures are here:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780
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Status: RO

At 07:10 AM 2/20/2007, you wrote:
>So its ready to be wieved now.
>I dont have more bandwidth at the other webpage where i started, but 
>the finished pictures are here:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm
>
>Bjarne

Very beautiful (as usual)!


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reference please
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Status: RO

I'd also look in the society pages of the newspapers of Houston and
Austin, since you're in Texas. I'm local to San Francisco, and the
Sunday papers often have photos of the people at society art openings,
political or social benefit days and nights. It's not all evening
gowns, and I can see (only in black/white though) what the hoi poloi
are wearing to be seen by other hoi poloi.

Best of luck,

LynnD


On 2/20/07, AnnBWass@aol.com <AnnBWass@aol.com> wrote:
>
> In a message dated 2/19/2007 8:14:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
>
> Remember, modern costumes are the HARDEST to do. That's because you  cannot
> fudge. It's fresh in the audience's mind and certain items  and brands and
> looks
> speak loud and clear.
>
>
>
>
> And of course, there is your BUDGET.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Status: RO

Many many thanks for your wonderfull words. It is very kind of you to look 
at my work.
It was a nice day, but also a sad day today, my little birdie died this 
afternoon. He was ancient old, and it was the best because he had 
difficulties to keep his ballance at the stick.

Bjarne







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Status: RO

Sorry for your lose.
De

-----Original Message-----
.. but also a sad day today, my little birdie died this afternoon. 

Bjarne


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Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 17:37:57 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] anglaise dress.
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Status: RO

At 02:33 PM 2/20/2007, you wrote:
>t was a nice day, but also a sad day today, my little birdie died 
>this afternoon. He was ancient old, and it was the best because he 
>had difficulties to keep his ballance at the stick.
>
>Bjarne


I'm sorry about your bird, Bjarne. What kind of bird was he?

I have a cockatiel and an African Grey parrot.

Dianne


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Feb 20 18:32:57 2007
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 15:30:52 -0800
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Status: RO

It's beautiful! I want one!
Is the lace on the sleeves 3 different widths? Or did you put it on
staggered?
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 7:10 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780


So its ready to be wieved now.
I dont have more bandwidth at the other webpage where i started, but the 
finished pictures are here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780
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Status: RO

How lovely!  You are truly an inspiration Bjarne, thank you!!!

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:  So its ready to be wieved now.
I dont have more bandwidth at the other webpage where i started, but the 
finished pictures are here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


 
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From: "Voncile W. Dudley" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780
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Status: RO

  Absolutely beautiful!....especially the embroidery.
  Lady Von
  
Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: So its ready to be wieved now.
I dont have more bandwidth at the other webpage where i started, but the 
finished pictures are here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 



---------------------------------
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  Lady Von
   
  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com
   

 
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Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 21:44:03 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780
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Fabulous! Absolutely GORGEOUS!
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Voncile W. Dudley
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 9:14 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780


  Absolutely beautiful!....especially the embroidery.
  Lady Von

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: So its ready to be wieved now.
I dont have more bandwidth at the other webpage where i started, but the
finished pictures are here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/



---------------------------------
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
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  Lady Von

  http://www.wildthangstreasures.com



---------------------------------
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] anglaise dress.
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 22:44:49 -0500
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On Tuesday 20 February 2007 2:33 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Many many thanks for your wonderfull words. It is very kind of you to look
> at my work.

Your work is , as always, beautiful, and very evocative of the 18th century.

I am sorry for the loss of your bird.  I have a beloved cat, and I know I will 
grieve when she eventually passes on.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780
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Mmmmmmm... It's like a creamy desert! Can't you see it with a huge hat full  
of green leaves, pink flowers and big blue ribbon?
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] anglaise dress.
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2007 00:40:30 -0500
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Status: RO

So sorry about your bird.  It is hard to lose a pet.

Your work is a treat to view.  Thanks for sharing the link with all of=20
us.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 20, 2007, at 2:33 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Many many thanks for your wonderfull words. It is very kind of you to=20
> look at my work.
> It was a nice day, but also a sad day today, my little birdie died=20
> this afternoon. He was ancient old, and it was the best because he had=20
> difficulties to keep his ballance at the stick.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] anglaise dress.(birds)
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Status: RO

Hi Dianne
Thanks for your concerns.
He was just a badgerigar, yellow-green. I had him  for 11 years. He had 
difficulties because he was born with one of his toes pointed in the  wrong 
direction, he often fell down from his sticks. But apart from that he was 
healthy. I also baught him a female bird. She was so crual to him, and i was 
actually releaved, when it suddently was dead one morning. Then i desided to 
keep him alone, so that he could have more piece.
I love the company of the birds, tomorrow ill go and buy myself 2 new ones.
Wished i had the money for a parrot, i love parrots. One of my X friends had 
a lot of parrots. In particular Jacko, an african grey, became very friendly 
to me. I could take him outside in the garden, and he didnt fly away, he was 
sitting on my shoulder. My X-friend worked in a cirkus, and trained 
annimals. Once we had a baby ellefant in the carport outside the house, 
staying the night over.
My x-friend was, after we had left eachother, murdered and it happened in 
the house. Burglers. The house and my x-friend was left empty for 3 weeks, 
before somebody tryed to contakt him. All the parrots was dead off cause, 
starved and left without fresh water.
A terrible story.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy4@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 11:37 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] anglaise dress.


> At 02:33 PM 2/20/2007, you wrote:
>>t was a nice day, but also a sad day today, my little birdie died this 
>>afternoon. He was ancient old, and it was the best because he had 
>>difficulties to keep his ballance at the stick.
>>
>>Bjarne
>
>
> I'm sorry about your bird, Bjarne. What kind of bird was he?
>
> I have a cockatiel and an African Grey parrot.
>
> Dianne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <005d01c75547$29192060$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2007 15:19:51 +0100
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Status: RO

Dear Sharon.
I have this lace in 4 different widths. Its lovely because its the same 
pattern. I have imported this from a lace factory in Scotland. Cotton lace.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 12:30 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780


> It's beautiful! I want one!
> Is the lace on the sleeves 3 different widths? Or did you put it on
> staggered?
> Sharon C.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 7:10 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Robe anglaise 1780
>
>
> So its ready to be wieved now.
> I dont have more bandwidth at the other webpage where i started, but the
> finished pictures are here:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] what is your favorite magazine?
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Status: RO

After reading Bjarne's email about the embroidery magazine I started
thinking about what all is out there that we actually purchase for
ourselves and for inspiration when it comes to embroidery, costumes,
design, or just plain relaxation.

What magazines do you all purchase whether or not you have the time
to actually read them right there and then?

For me this would be Threads: http://www.taunton.com/Threads/

I really have not had time to get any others lately but still am
interested in what is out there that is actually being purchased
cause there are just tons out there! :)

Chiara

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is your favorite magazine?
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Status: RO

Well, Harper's, but that's not an inspiration-source for
costuming/needlework, etc., so I'd have to say I really enjoy the following:
Piecework (especially the older ones)
SpinOff
Handwoven
and Knitty (which is electronic format)
Threads is good, too, but I don't have too much of a use for that sort of
thing, so I don't purchase it.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chiara Francesca" <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 7:59 AM
Subject: [h-cost] what is your favorite magazine?


> After reading Bjarne's email about the embroidery magazine I started
> thinking about what all is out there that we actually purchase for
> ourselves and for inspiration when it comes to embroidery, costumes,
> design, or just plain relaxation.
>
> What magazines do you all purchase whether or not you have the time
> to actually read them right there and then?
>
> For me this would be Threads: http://www.taunton.com/Threads/
>
> I really have not had time to get any others lately but still am
> interested in what is out there that is actually being purchased
> cause there are just tons out there! :)
>
> Chiara
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery magazine
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2007 10:40:56 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

First of all, please ask them if it's possible to purchase individual  
issues of the magazine! I can't afford a subscription, but I would  
certainly love to read the interview and see the pictures!

If they've asked for a design for an embroidered waistcoat readers  
could make and wear, I'd think they're asking for "wearable art," and  
so maybe they'd be more interested in one of your purse designs than  
in the stomacher, since a reader could make a purse and carry it when  
going to a dressy event.

My two cents....
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


On Feb 21, 2007, at 9:40 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> Maybe some of you would have the time to help me out.
> I find it a little difficult to find myself, and therefore i ask you.
> Country Bumpkins embroidery magazine Inspirations, is going to have  
> an interwiev with me in their issue nr 55.
> They want me to send them 8-10 pictures of my work.
> Wich pictures do you think i should send them with the interwiev?
> Also for the later issue nr. 57 wich is going to be all about  
> flowers, they wanted me to design an embroidered waistcoat for the  
> readers to make and wear.
> This i told them i  dont have time to do, but i thoaght about what  
> if i gave them the pattern for the beautifull stomacher i made on  
> the yellow stumpwork dress?
> Do you think readers would be interrested in this. They could not  
> wear it, but they could frame it?
> If you have the time for these questions, i would be very greatfull.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

Hi,
Maybe some of you would have the time to help me out.
I find it a little difficult to find myself, and therefore i ask you.
Country Bumpkins embroidery magazine Inspirations, is going to have an 
interwiev with me in their issue nr 55.
They want me to send them 8-10 pictures of my work.
Wich pictures do you think i should send them with the interwiev?
Also for the later issue nr. 57 wich is going to be all about flowers, they 
wanted me to design an embroidered waistcoat for the readers to make and 
wear.
This i told them i  dont have time to do, but i thoaght about what if i gave 
them the pattern for the beautifull stomacher i made on the yellow stumpwork 
dress?
Do you think readers would be interrested in this. They could not wear it, 
but they could frame it?
If you have the time for these questions, i would be very greatfull.

Many thanks

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery magazine
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Status: RO

Oh Wow ... that is wonderful Bjarne!

Definitely
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/taske8.htm
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/taske4.htm

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries20.htm
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries17.htm
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries24.htm
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries1.htm

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/2006suit37.htm
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/2006suit31.htm

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/Helms1.htm
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/f.embroidery13.htm
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/f.embroidery15.htm
The others on your stomacher page will not come up but maybe one
more off that set of projects too.

And definitely this one with the embroidery on the buttons:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/f.embroidery7.htm

Chiara

On Wed, February 21, 2007 8:40 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews said:
> Hi,
> Maybe some of you would have the time to help me out.
> I find it a little difficult to find myself, and therefore i ask
> you.
> Country Bumpkins embroidery magazine Inspirations, is going to have
> an
> interwiev with me in their issue nr 55.
> They want me to send them 8-10 pictures of my work.
> Wich pictures do you think i should send them with the interwiev?
> Also for the later issue nr. 57 wich is going to be all about
> flowers, they
> wanted me to design an embroidered waistcoat for the readers to make
> and
> wear.
> This i told them i  dont have time to do, but i thoaght about what
> if i gave
> them the pattern for the beautifull stomacher i made on the yellow
> stumpwork
> dress?
> Do you think readers would be interrested in this. They could not
> wear it,
> but they could frame it?
> If you have the time for these questions, i would be very greatfull.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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To: "TheRenaissanceTailor" <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>,
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Subject: [h-cost] Dressing Dutch/Dress in the Golden Age- Phoenix Art Museum
	2/27/2007 7:00 PM Free!
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Status: RO

Hi all, sorry for the cross posts.  I will be doing another presentation at
the Phoenix Art Museum on Dress in the Golden Age. This presentation is in
conjunction with the current Dutch Masters Exhibit from the Rijksmuseum.
http://www.phxart.org/exhibitions/rembrandt.asp

Similar to the Queen Elizabeth presentation, I have recreated an upper class
woman's and a young boy's garment for the presentation.
http://saragrace.us/html/A1_GoldenAgeDressDiary_PAMPics.html

I will be discussing Dutch costume in general and specifics of these two
garments.  http://www.phxart.org/events/lectures.asp#workshops

Admission to the presentation is free, as is admission to the museum on
Tuesdays!

The Rijksmuseum exhibition is NOT free :). The museum does recommend people
purchase their tickets in advance, as they are timed/dated, though they
seem to have availability for walk-ups on Tuesday evenings.

Last entry time on Tuesdays is 7:30. Tickets are $18 for adults, $8 children
6-17,
and include audioguide.  (If you go on another day than Tuesday, this will
include admission to the rest of the museum.) Tickets are available online
at Phxart.org; at the Museum's admission desk; or by
calling 602-307-2090. 

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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <Ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2007 11:19:44 -0600
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: embroidery magazine
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Status: RO

Hi,
Maybe some of you would have the time to help me out.
I find it a little difficult to find myself, and therefore i ask you.
Country Bumpkins embroidery magazine Inspirations, is going to have an

interwiev with me in their issue nr 55.
They want me to send them 8-10 pictures of my work.
Wich pictures do you think i should send them with the interwiev?
Also for the later issue nr. 57 wich is going to be all about flowers,
they 
wanted me to design an embroidered waistcoat for the readers to make
and 
wear.
This i told them i  dont have time to do, but i thoaght about what if i
gave 
them the pattern for the beautifull stomacher i made on the yellow
stumpwork 
dress?
Do you think readers would be interrested in this. They could not wear
it, 
but they could frame it?
If you have the time for these questions, i would be very greatfull.

Many thanks

Bjarne
***********************************
This is awesome Bjarne, congratulations!  I love Inspirations and can't
wait for the latest issue.  One of the local fabrics store chains has
started carrying it but I have to be sure to check for it regularly. 
Their print quality is beautiful and should do justice to your work.  

Only 8-10 pics?  I don't know how you are going to whittle it down, I'd
have problems eliminating even one :).

The stomacher for the yellow stumpwork is beautiful, perhaps the
readers could use it on the back of a vest?  Otherwise I would think any
of your patterns for the purses would fit the theme too.

Thanks for continuing to be an inspiration,
Catherine




_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Feb 21 12:49:40 2007
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: embroidery magazine
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2007 12:41:49 -0500
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Catherine said it excellently - you are an inspiration, Bjarne.

I am so sorry for the death of your budgie.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Catherine Kinsey
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 12:20 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: embroidery magazine

Hi,
Maybe some of you would have the time to help me out.
I find it a little difficult to find myself, and therefore i ask you.
Country Bumpkins embroidery magazine Inspirations, is going to have an

interwiev with me in their issue nr 55.
They want me to send them 8-10 pictures of my work.
Wich pictures do you think i should send them with the interwiev?
Also for the later issue nr. 57 wich is going to be all about flowers,
they 
wanted me to design an embroidered waistcoat for the readers to make
and 
wear.
This i told them i  dont have time to do, but i thoaght about what if i
gave 
them the pattern for the beautifull stomacher i made on the yellow
stumpwork 
dress?
Do you think readers would be interrested in this. They could not wear
it, 
but they could frame it?
If you have the time for these questions, i would be very greatfull.

Many thanks

Bjarne
***********************************
This is awesome Bjarne, congratulations!  I love Inspirations and can't
wait for the latest issue.  One of the local fabrics store chains has
started carrying it but I have to be sure to check for it regularly. 
Their print quality is beautiful and should do justice to your work.  

Only 8-10 pics?  I don't know how you are going to whittle it down, I'd
have problems eliminating even one :).

The stomacher for the yellow stumpwork is beautiful, perhaps the
readers could use it on the back of a vest?  Otherwise I would think any
of your patterns for the purses would fit the theme too.

Thanks for continuing to be an inspiration,
Catherine




_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Feb 21 14:40:03 2007
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] embroidery magazine
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2007 11:24:35 -0800
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Status: RO

I would love the pattern for the stomacher, if I was a reader, especially
with your beautiful work as inspiration.
And congratulations on being in the magazine!
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 6:41 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] embroidery magazine


Hi,
Maybe some of you would have the time to help me out.
I find it a little difficult to find myself, and therefore i ask you.
Country Bumpkins embroidery magazine Inspirations, is going to have an 
interwiev with me in their issue nr 55.
They want me to send them 8-10 pictures of my work.
Wich pictures do you think i should send them with the interwiev?
Also for the later issue nr. 57 wich is going to be all about flowers, they 
wanted me to design an embroidered waistcoat for the readers to make and 
wear.
This i told them i  dont have time to do, but i thoaght about what if i gave

them the pattern for the beautifull stomacher i made on the yellow stumpwork

dress?
Do you think readers would be interrested in this. They could not wear it, 
but they could frame it?
If you have the time for these questions, i would be very greatfull.

Many thanks

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] embroidery magazine
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Status: RO

Maybe the magazine could include your website, so people could see all of
your work. 8-10 pictures will only give them a little taste.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 6:41 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] embroidery magazine


Hi,
Maybe some of you would have the time to help me out.
I find it a little difficult to find myself, and therefore i ask you.
Country Bumpkins embroidery magazine Inspirations, is going to have an 
interwiev with me in their issue nr 55.
They want me to send them 8-10 pictures of my work.
Wich pictures do you think i should send them with the interwiev?
Also for the later issue nr. 57 wich is going to be all about flowers, they 
wanted me to design an embroidered waistcoat for the readers to make and 
wear.
This i told them i  dont have time to do, but i thoaght about what if i gave

them the pattern for the beautifull stomacher i made on the yellow stumpwork

dress?
Do you think readers would be interrested in this. They could not wear it, 
but they could frame it?
If you have the time for these questions, i would be very greatfull.

Many thanks

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2007 17:09:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is your favorite magazine?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

For me, I enjoy Sew News, and recently am enjoying Piecework magazine. I used to enjoy Threads a lot, but with the recent changes, I'm not getting as much out of it as I used to. I also used to enjoy drooling over Belle Armoire, but again, while the items in there are beautiful, it wasn't doing so much for me anymore.
   
  I still wish we had a good Costuming magazine, and was saddened when the one a few years ago just couldn't get off the ground. It showed some good potential, and I was about to subscribe when I heard it was gone.
   
  Kimiko
  

Chiara Francesca <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com> wrote:
    What magazines do you all purchase whether or not you have the time
to actually read them right there and then?

For me this would be Threads: http://www.taunton.com/Threads/


 
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Status: RO

Thanks to all of you who so kindly gave me source references for modern costume. It is just odd that I never had a show with these demands before and under the present conditions where I am.
There is no real department store near and this theatre is in a very wealthy community; however, nearly every one goes casual.
My characters are four women in federal prison for 'pink collar' crime who have a lot of money stashed outside from their endeavors. They own the warden, dress as they please, have the hair dresser in, and order out from gourmet restruants.
My plan is dress them by personality. To me that dictates a range of looks.
Again, thanks a bunch.

Audrey Chase

in the high boonies of Central Texas

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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Costume,
 clothing and images of life in the medieval and
 renaissance worlds - books from DBBC
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Status: RO

I'm on the David Brown Book Company email list.  This note just 
arrived in my mailbox.  I know that there are several (at least) 
members of h-costume who are interested in at least two of these books.

Joan


>Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2007 10:38:54 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>From: ian.stevens@dbbcdist.com
>To: joanmj@surewest.net
>Subject: Costume, clothing and images of life in the medieval and
>  renaissance worlds - books from DBBC
>
>I have three books to mention today, all of which could interest 
>those who are excited by the medieval and renaissance world and, 
>more specifically, the clothing and costume of those times.
>
>Firstly, we have struck a deal with Italian publisher, Polistampa, 
>to take copies of a book they published a couple of years ago and 
>which sold out very quickly. It is about to be reprinted and we will 
>have copies in April (my guess). 'Moda a Firenze, 1540-1580' 
>presents a collection of illustrated essays in both Italian and 
>English on costume and fashion inspired by Eleonora di Toledo's 
>arrival at the Medici court. It's a stunning book, brimful of 
>illustrations. Secure your copy now, before it sells out again.
>
>Going back a millennium or so, we are also going to be handling 
>Penny Rogers' much-anticipated 'Cloth and Clothing in Early 
>Anglo-Saxon England'. The book is due to appear in the next month or 
>so in England and I am hoping we will have copies in April.
>
>Links to both the above titles are given below. We are giving as 
>much information as we can (tables of contents, sample pages etc.) 
>and we're also offering good introductory prices on both books.
>
>The third book is one I have mentioned before: The Luttrell Psalter. 
>We are selling the British Library's amazing new facsimile edition 
>and the introductory price of $650.00 is good until the end of 
>March. After that it will be $750.00. Again, a link is provided 
>below. It's pricey, but it's beautiful. Prompted by a couple of 
>customers (we do listen sometimes!), we have decided to offer the 
>book on a 'lay away' basis to spread the financial burden. Write to 
>me for details. But remember: the price goes up after March 31st.
>
>Three very special books. I hope we tickle your fancy.
>
>With regards,
>
>Ian Stevens
>The David Brown Book Company
>Tel: 1-800-791-9354
>
>
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Lo Stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua 
>influenza' - by Roberta Orsi Landini and Bruna Niccoli
>List Price: US$ 99.50 * Our Price: US$ 90.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=48785&MID=10786
>
>'Cloth and Clothing in Early Anglo Saxon England, AD 450-700' - by 
>Penelope Rogers
>List Price: US$ 39.95 * Our Price: US$ 32.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=60262&MID=10786
>
>'The Luttrell Psalter: A Facsimile' - with an introduction by 
>Michelle P Brown
>List Price: US$ 750.00 * Our Price: US$ 650.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=48244&MID=10786
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------
>To change your user profile follow this link:
>http://www.oxbowbooks.com/elist.cfm/Location/DBBC/EmailAddress/joanmj%40surewest%2Enet
>
>To unsubscribe from this list follow this link:
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Subject: [h-cost] Our Country's Good
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Hullo all! This is my first time posting anything to the list, though I've
been lurking quite a while.
I'm designing the costumes for my high school's production of Our Country's
Good, by Timberlake Wertenbaker. If you don't know it--it's about the
British convicts and soldiers sent to found a penal colony in Australia in
1789. There are several marines in the play--from rank of 2nd lieutenant to
major, a navy midshipman, and the navy captain governor, an aborigine (not
sure yet if this character will be played by a man or woman, which is a pain
for designing the costume), several convict men, and five convict women. I
was wondering if anybody here knew of any resources for researching the
clothes of any of these sorts of people, or just happened to know stuff
themselves.
Much thanks!
Cheerio,
Anna
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Our Country's Good
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Status: RO

Anna Zola Piggie Rethie wrote:

> British convicts and soldiers sent to found a penal colony in Australia in
> 1789. 

  I
> was wondering if anybody here knew of any resources for researching the
> clothes of any of these sorts of people, or just happened to know stuff
> themselves.


http://www.costumes.org/

That's a good place to start, look under "history by period" for the 
1780's and you'll find a ton of images and links.

The "ethnic dress" section might be useful for the aboriginal clothing.



Dawn

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Our Country's Good
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2007 15:16:52 -0800
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Status: RO

Where are you located? The Drama Dept. at Stanford University has lots of
military stuff. They also used to rent costumes. At least, they would
probably let you go and see them.
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Anna Zola Piggie Rethie
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 3:03 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Our Country's Good


Hullo all! This is my first time posting anything to the list, though I've
been lurking quite a while.
I'm designing the costumes for my high school's production of Our Country's
Good, by Timberlake Wertenbaker. If you don't know it--it's about the
British convicts and soldiers sent to found a penal colony in Australia in
1789. There are several marines in the play--from rank of 2nd lieutenant to
major, a navy midshipman, and the navy captain governor, an aborigine (not
sure yet if this character will be played by a man or woman, which is a pain
for designing the costume), several convict men, and five convict women. I
was wondering if anybody here knew of any resources for researching the
clothes of any of these sorts of people, or just happened to know stuff
themselves.
Much thanks!
Cheerio,
Anna
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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hate to say it, and net very historically - but vogue! (UK mainly and US  
occasionally).  Also slightly addicted to the show photo reports on the  
website....


 
   
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <Ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] More Moda a Firenze
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Status: RO

Looks like there was a lot of interest in this reprint.  

I just had an update on my order with Michael Shamansky Booksellers
(contact info below).  They are offering free shipping on Moda a Firenze
(anywhere in the USA) thru March 31, 2007.  Their price is $90 and they
are expecting within the next 1-2 weeks.  I think he said they are
getting theirs via airfreight.  

I could kick myself for not getting this when it first came out, the
reprint was great news, but that is not making the wait any easier :).

Catherine

Contact info;
Michael Shamansky, Bookseller Inc
P.O. Box 3904
Kingston, New York 12402

Telephone:  1-800-527-6775  (845 331 8519)
Fax:  845-331-0852

Email: mshamans@artbooks.com 
Url:  www.artbooks.com 


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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Our Country's Good - songs & music for Anna
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Dear Anna,
  whether or not this will be of any use to you, I don't know.
  However, a few year's back, the noted English Folk Singer and Song Writer Peter Bellamy wrote a highly- praised Folk Opera  "The Transports" which contained 18 songs in traditional "folksong style" of the Times; - about the very first voyage to set up the Penal Colony in Botany Bay. Particularly, it has been much-performed and much-praised in Australia,as one might expect.
  The music & songs of this Folk Opera might be of interest to your Producer/Director.
   There is are several CD's, if you are interested. Topic Records TSCD 459 (CD, UK, 1992) is the version I have, but another CD Company produced a 25rg Anniversary Boxed set in 2004.
   
  Yours in Service
  Julian Wilson,
  [aka in the SCA as Matthew Baker]
  50 years a traditional Folk Singer.



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Anna Zola Piggie Rethie
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 3:03 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Our Country's Good


Hullo all! This is my first time posting anything to the list, though I've
been lurking quite a while.
I'm designing the costumes for my high school's production of Our Country's
Good, by Timberlake Wertenbaker. If you don't know it--it's about the
British convicts and soldiers sent to found a penal colony in Australia in
1789. There are several marines in the play--from rank of 2nd lieutenant to
major, a navy midshipman, and the navy captain governor, an aborigine (not
sure yet if this character will be played by a man or woman, which is a pain
for designing the costume), several convict men, and five convict women. I
was wondering if anybody here knew of any resources for researching the
clothes of any of these sorts of people, or just happened to know stuff
themselves.
Much thanks!
Cheerio,
Anna
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From: Winifred of Keyes <winifred_of_keyes@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Our Country's Good - songs & music for Anna
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Greetings Sir Matthew

I didn't know that in addition to your prowess at arms
and woodworking you were also a songsmith.  Perhaps
you would be willing to grace our Summer Tourney with
a song or two?  Also, I'm hoping to start learning
some medieval music and would really appreciate any
assistance you might give.  I've recently joined the
Yahoo group for SCA bards - are you a member of that?

Your servant
Winifred

--- julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> Dear Anna,
>   whether or not this will be of any use to you, I
> don't know.
>   However, a few year's back, the noted English Folk
> Singer and Song Writer Peter Bellamy wrote a highly-
> praised Folk Opera  "The Transports" which contained
> 18 songs in traditional "folksong style" of the
> Times; - about the very first voyage to set up the
> Penal Colony in Botany Bay. Particularly, it has
> been much-performed and much-praised in Australia,as
> one might expect.
>   The music & songs of this Folk Opera might be of
> interest to your Producer/Director.
>    There is are several CD's, if you are interested.
> Topic Records TSCD 459 (CD, UK, 1992) is the version
> I have, but another CD Company produced a 25rg
> Anniversary Boxed set in 2004.
>    
>   Yours in Service
>   Julian Wilson,
>   [aka in the SCA as Matthew Baker]
>   50 years a traditional Folk Singer.
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Anna Zola Piggie Rethie
> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 3:03 PM
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Our Country's Good
> 
> 
> Hullo all! This is my first time posting anything to
> the list, though I've
> been lurking quite a while.
> I'm designing the costumes for my high school's
> production of Our Country's
> Good, by Timberlake Wertenbaker. If you don't know
> it--it's about the
> British convicts and soldiers sent to found a penal
> colony in Australia in
> 1789. There are several marines in the play--from
> rank of 2nd lieutenant to
> major, a navy midshipman, and the navy captain
> governor, an aborigine (not
> sure yet if this character will be played by a man
> or woman, which is a pain
> for designing the costume), several convict men, and
> five convict women. I
> was wondering if anybody here knew of any resources
> for researching the
> clothes of any of these sorts of people, or just
> happened to know stuff
> themselves.
> Much thanks!
> Cheerio,
> Anna
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

"All shall be well, and all shall be well, and all manner of things shall be well." Julian of Norwich


		
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Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2007 11:14:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
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Status: RO

Hi,
   
  can someone recommend me a good book on medieval clothing with many (historically accurate) illustrations for inspiration? The pictures can be photos of real finds: garments, statues, painings, or simly re-drawn pictures. 
  The period that interests me is 14th century, but other periods would be quite nice as well.
   
  Many thanks,
   
  Zuzana
   

 
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Thanks for the info--I just bought a CD set.  I love "The Beggar's 
Opera," but didn't know of any other ballad operas.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

julian wilson wrote:

> Dear Anna,
>   whether or not this will be of any use to you, I don't know.
>   However, a few year's back, the noted English Folk Singer and Song Writer Peter Bellamy wrote a highly- praised Folk Opera  "The Transports" which contained 18 songs in traditional "folksong style" of the Times; - about the very first voyage to set up the Penal Colony in Botany Bay. Particularly, it has been much-performed and much-praised in Australia,as one might expect.
>   The music & songs of this Folk Opera might be of interest to your Producer/Director.
>    There is are several CD's, if you are interested. Topic Records TSCD 459 (CD, UK, 1992) is the version I have, but another CD Company produced a 25rg Anniversary Boxed set in 2004.
>    
>   Yours in Service
>   Julian Wilson,
>   [aka in the SCA as Matthew Baker]
>   50 years a traditional Folk Singer.
> 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
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On Fri, 23 Feb 2007, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

>   can someone recommend me a good book on medieval clothing with many
> (historically accurate) illustrations for inspiration? The pictures
> can be photos of real finds: garments, statues, painings, or simly
> re-drawn pictures.
>   The period that interests me is 14th century, but other periods
> would be quite nice as well.

A Visual History of Costume: The 14th and 15th Centuries, by Margaret
Scott. All pictures, all primary sources, mostly sculptures and brasses.
Focuses on England with some overlap into France. Out of print but worth
finding via ILL.

--Robin


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
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On Fri, 23 Feb 2007, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> P.S.: If someone knew of a manuscript such as the codex manesse
> reprinted in a book, it would be very nice:-))

There are hundreds of such manuscript reprints, too many to list unless
you can cite a specific time/place. Some of these are art books called
"manuscript facsimiles," which are page-by-page reproductions of full
manuscripts. Others are art books about manuscript painting. Many are very
expensive -- I know of two brilliant reproductions of the Manesse that are
too expensive for my budget, but are in many libraries. (And it's online,
too.)

To get a good sense of what's out there, go to your nearest major library
or university library and look in the *oversize* section under the subject
heading of manuscript illumination or manuscript paintings. You'll find
titles like "Manuscript Painting in the Court of France"; once you've
found one, you'll find a shelf full.

If you can tell us exactly what time and place you're interested in, we
can probably point you to specific titles. I have about two bookshelves of
manuscript facsimiles and collections of manuscript art that's mostly 14th
and 15th c. English-French-Flemish, so you can see why I don't want to
start listing here. But perhaps someone who already has their collection
on Librarything would be willing to point Zuzana to a list of suitable
books? (Wanda?)

--Robin


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P.S.: If someone knew of a manuscript such as the codex manesse reprinted in a book, it would be very nice:-))
 
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Subject: [h-cost] some stellar finds from David Brown/Oxbow Books
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Sorry to do this to your pocketbooks.


Arlys

 
> I have three books to mention today, all of which could interest 
> those who are excited by the medieval and renaissance world and, 
> more specifically, the clothing and costume of those times.
> 
> Firstly, we have struck a deal with Italian publisher, Polistampa, 
> to take copies of a book they published a couple of years ago and 
> which sold out very quickly. It is about to be reprinted and we will 
> have copies in April (my guess). 'Moda a Firenze, 1540-1580' 
> presents a collection of illustrated essays in both Italian and 
> English on costume and fashion inspired by Eleonora di Toledo's 
> arrival at the Medici court. It's a stunning book, brimful of 
> illustrations. Secure your copy now, before it sells out again.
> 
> Going back a millennium or so, we are also going to be handling 
> Penny Rogers' much-anticipated 'Cloth and Clothing in Early 
> Anglo-Saxon England'. The book is due to appear in the next month or 
> so in England and I am hoping we will have copies in April.
> 
> Links to both the above titles are given below. We are giving as 
> much information as we can (tables of contents, sample pages etc.) 
> and we're also offering good introductory prices on both books.
> 
> The third book is one I have mentioned before: The Luttrell Psalter. 
> We are selling the British Library's amazing new facsimile edition 
> and the introductory price of $650.00 is good until the end of 
> March. After that it will be $750.00. Again, a link is provided 
> below. It's pricey, but it's beautiful. Prompted by a couple of 
> customers (we do listen sometimes!), we have decided to offer the 
> book on a 'lay away' basis to spread the financial burden. Write to 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
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Status: RO

the Manesse Codex is available online. Just google 'Manesse Codex.'


There's a wonderful version of it in the original German. All photos are
thumbnails which can be enlarged. Much fun. :-)

Arlys

On Fri, 23 Feb 2007 12:19:14 -0800 (PST) Zuzana Kraemerova
<zkraemerova@yahoo.com> writes:
> P.S.: If someone knew of a manuscript such as the codex manesse 
> reprinted in a book, it would be very nice:-))
>  
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Does anyone on h-costume subscribe to this magazine?

I am somwhat interested but divided. I'd be interested if they were 
showing sort of vintage looks, the kind of thing people put together out 
of the good parts of several pieces of damaged vintage clothing and 
trims. Is that what this magazine is mostly about, or not?

Also, how much do the projects depend on the use of rubber stamps, as 
the publisher seems to focus a lot on those in their other magazines?

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Fran wrote:
>Does anyone on h-costume subscribe to this magazine?

I don't subscribe, but I pick it up occasionally as "eye candy" when I'm in the right mood.

>I am somewhat interested but divided. I'd be interested if they were 
>showing sort of vintage looks, the kind of thing people put together out 
>of the good parts of several pieces of damaged vintage clothing and 
>trims. Is that what this magazine is mostly about, or not?

Not. 

Or not exactly.

It's about various sorts of "creative" things one can do with clothing, but original vintage clothing rarely enters into the process. You _might_ find some of what you're looking for in it -- it's not my area of interest, so I may miss things that would interest you. But on the whole, "creative" tends to win out over "nostalgic" in the project department. Sometimes projects are deliberately "aged" to look old -- but history has little to do with the process, other than as inspiration. 

The issue currently in my bathroom has articles on poly-clay jewelry, covered matchbox "purses" that look vaguely Japanese, crocheted hats embellished with all sorts of sparkly stuff, and I forget what else. Other issues have had articles on painting T-shirts, a covered-shoe challenge (not necessarily practical but more along the "embellish creatively" line), and various dyed, painted, pieced, pleated and otherwise embellished garments. 

>Also, how much do the projects depend on the use of rubber stamps, as 
>the publisher seems to focus a lot on those in their other magazines?

They show up in maybe one project per issue, and not always that. Dyes, paints and poly clay are always big, though.

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Hi, Zuzana. The book that you might be looking for is Minnesanger ; 
Achtzehn farbige Wiedergaben aus der Manessischen Liederhandschrift, by 
Kurt Martin Woldemar Klein Verlag, Baden-Baden 1953 (18 color 
illustrations from the Mannesse codex) I don't know of a copy of the 
whole manuscript, text and all, but that might get you started getting a 
library loan.  Good Luck, Mike T.

Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

>P.S.: If someone knew of a manuscript such as the codex manesse reprinted in a book, it would be very nice:-))
> 
>
>  
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2007 19:15:31 -0600
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Status: RO

I have a site ear marked
http://www.tempora-nostra.de/tempora-nostra/manesse.php?id=203
De
-----Original Message-----
the Manesse Codex is available online. Just google 'Manesse Codex.'


There's a wonderful version of it in the original German. All photos are
thumbnails which can be enlarged. Much fun. :-)

Arlys

On Fri, 23 Feb 2007 12:19:14 -0800 (PST) Zuzana Kraemerova
<zkraemerova@yahoo.com> writes:
> P.S.: If someone knew of a manuscript such as the codex manesse 
> reprinted in a book, it would be very nice:-))
>  
>


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
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Status: RO

If you want a book, rather than a web site, go to Amazon DE.  If you =
scroll down to the very bottom of the search page on the U.S. edition of =
Amazon, you will see a link for Amazon in Germany.  Go there and put =
Manesse Codex in the search field.  The one that pops up first is Codex =
Manesse. Die Miniaturen der Gro=DFen Heidelberger Liederhandschrift , =
which seems to have all the miniatures (if I am deciphering the German =
correctly) and costs 29 euros.  Shipping of course will be expensive.

Janet
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
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Robin,

I am on the hunt for female Flemish 1420 - 1460 outfits,, I will gladly take any titles you wish to send me..

I am trying to focus primarily on houpelands (sp?). I am also trying to (dis)prove a theory that 'bagpipe' sleeves were only worn by men, not women. 

(like on one of the Magi in 'Adoration of the Magi' by Domenico Veneziano  c1435.. - sorry can't find Url at this moment)

Thanks for any info
Katheryne

From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>

<major snip>

 I have about two bookshelves of
manuscript facsimiles and collections of manuscript art that's mostly 14th
and 15th c. English-French-Flemish, so you can see why I don't want to
start listing here. 
--Robin
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From: Jodi Nelson <faerieglenstudios@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fun with Dick and Jane
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Status: RO

Hey everyone,

I have an interesting assignment. I am taking an Adobe Illustrator class at my local college. We are being asked to design 4 logos for a company. This company is a fictional high-end childrens clothing company. They are planning "Dick and Jane"{from the readers} for the name. I need the following:
1- logo for entire company line
2- logo for boys line
3- logo for girls line
4- logo for unisex, accessories,etc.

each logo is for card,letterhead,hangtag,#10 envelope, and garment tag.

I am looking for suggestions for ideas for thumbnail sketches. Anything  would be helpful.

Thanks in advance,
Jodi 

 
---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels 
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] More Moda a Firenze
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2007 21:20:14 -0800
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Status: RO

Get it now!  I don't think that there will be another printing as the two
companies that are bringing it out will probably feel that they have
saturated the market for such an expensive book.

Because Ian Stevens is My Man at Davis Brown books I made the same deal with
them and bought the book about Anglo Saxon stuff as well.  Yes I have a copy
of the first printing, but the second should make a great wedding or
Laureling Present!

Regina Romsey
>
> I just had an update on my order with Michael Shamansky Booksellers
> (contact info below).  They are offering free shipping on Moda a Firenze
> (anywhere in the USA) thru March 31, 2007.  Their price is $90 and they
> are expecting within the next 1-2 weeks.  I think he said they are
> getting theirs via airfreight.
>
> I could kick myself for not getting this when it first came out, the
> reprint was great news, but that is not making the wait any easier :).
>
> Catherine
>
> Contact info;
> Michael Shamansky, Bookseller Inc
> P.O. Box 3904
> Kingston, New York 12402
>
> Telephone:  1-800-527-6775  (845 331 8519)
> Fax:  845-331-0852
>
> Email: mshamans@artbooks.com
> Url:  www.artbooks.com
>
>

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Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2007 21:41:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Belle Armoire
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Fran,
   
  Pretty much what Chris said. Belle Armoire is modern art-to-wear garments, bags, jewelry, hats, etc. While they may discuss a vintage garment, it will be in relation to how a designer has updated it for their modern art pieces.
   
  And rubber stamps usually are used at least once per magazine, more or less.
   
  This is why I no longer buy it, and am looking at Piecework magazine instead.
   
  Kimiko
  

Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
  Does anyone on h-costume subscribe to this magazine?

I am somwhat interested but divided. I'd be interested if they were 
showing sort of vintage looks, the kind of thing people put together out 
of the good parts of several pieces of damaged vintage clothing and 
trims. Is that what this magazine is mostly about, or not?

Also, how much do the projects depend on the use of rubber stamps, as 
the publisher seems to focus a lot on those in their other magazines?

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

 	
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
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-----Original Message-----
<<<(like on one of the Magi in 'Adoration of the Magi' by Domenico Veneziano
c1435.. - sorry can't find Url at this moment)>>>

http://tinyurl.com/yre32p

Thanks for any info
Katheryne



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
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On Sat, 24 Feb 2007 purplkat@optonline.net wrote:

> I am on the hunt for female Flemish 1420 - 1460 outfits,, I will
> gladly take any titles you wish to send me..

What a great period for artwork! Paintings as well as manuscripts. My very
favorite manuscript for secular clothing of this period -- 200 images, all
with realistic people, most secular, various classes -- is a coffee-table
facsimile of a c. 1430-1440 Flemish ms of Bocaccio's Decameron, ed. Edmond
Pognon, various editions/languages, 1978. I see 30 copies at abebooks
right now, ranging from $6 to $40. There are other wonderful facsimiles
from this period, but this will get you the most bang for the buck in
terms of quantity of images for a low sum.

That was part of a lovely little series of "Illuminated Manuscripts"; I
got several for a song when they were remaindered in about 1979, including
the "Tres Riches Heures," an Italian "Divine Comedy," and a splendid
"Tristan and Isolde." (I skipped an Egyptian Book of the Dead and
something Mayan.)

> I am trying to focus primarily on houpelands (sp?). I am also trying
> to (dis)prove a theory that 'bagpipe' sleeves were only worn by men,
> not women.

Not sure what you mean by bagpipe sleeves, but bag sleeves were plenty
common on women. Look in Margaret Scott's Visual History of Costume: The
14th and 15th Centuries and you'll see English brasses and effigies with
bag sleeves. And there's a nice bag sleeve in Hecyra, an image reprinted
in Marcel Thomas's "The Golden Age" (a nice overview of manuscript
paintings, one of several published by Braziller in, hmm, probably the
1970s). That one is online somewhere; I can't find the nice big version,
but I see a small version of it here:
	http://www.umilta.net/terencechaucer.html
First image on that page -- bag sleeves with fringe/dags down the outer
seam, yum.

> (like on one of the Magi in 'Adoration of the Magi' by Domenico
> Veneziano c1435.. - sorry can't find Url at this moment)

If you mean the magi who has a bag sleeve with a slit in the top, so he
can put his arm out the slit or his hand out the cuff ... not sure if I've
ever seen that particular variation on a woman but I wouldn't rule it out.

--Robin

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a book I have found to be very helpful is ~`

Millia Davenport's ~ the Book of Costume

I found my copy (inexpensively) on EBay

Here is a copy here;  http://www.tiny.cc/1FRwE=20

Hope this helps  .  .=20

Vrederun
FernsAndNettles@Cox.net
Marinus
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Our Country's Good
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In a message dated 2/23/07 7:01:56 PM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> I'm designing the costumes for my high school's production of Our Country's
> Good, by Timberlake Wertenbaker. If you don't know it--it's about the
> British convicts and soldiers sent to found a penal colony in Australia in
> 1789. There are several marines in the play--from rank of 2nd lieutenant to
> major, a navy midshipman, and the navy captain governor, an aborigine (not
> sure yet if this character will be played by a man or woman, which is a pain
> for designing the costume), several convict men, and five convict women. I
> was wondering if anybody here knew of any resources for researching the
> clothes of any of these sorts of people, or just happened to know stuff
> themselves.
> Much thanks!
> Cheerio,
> Anna
> 
Hi Anna You can properly get these books on ILL     
Duck and Cabbage Tree (1967) later re issued as  Clothes in Australia. By 
Cedric Flower. Pub. Kangaroo Press 1984                                           
                  Costume in Australia  By Marion Fletcher. Pub Oxford 
University Press 1984 I think this is the book that has a list of clothing provided 
to the convicts, both male and female Sorry book not to hand for checking.     
                                                                              
                 Breeches and Bustles  An illustrated history of clothes worn 
in Australia 1788-1914 By Elizabeth Scandrett.  Pub. Pioneer Design Studio 
1988                             Hatches Matches and Dispatches. By Rowena 
Clark. National Gallery of Victoria 1987 This has a nice picture of a wedding gown 
approx. 1789 that went out of England (not white it would do for day dress 
design)                                                                           
                          The Remote Garrison. The British army in Australia. 
By Peter Stanley. Pub. Kangaroo Press 1986. I can't recall if the marines are 
shown in this book. I don't have it to hand at the moment to check.           
                                                              The Dress of 
the British Sailor. By Admiral Sir Gerald Dickens. Pub National Maritime Museum 
1957  A small paper back with pictures for sailor costume of 1737 1750 1790 
1795 1798 and 1799                                                               
           Australian Costume 1788-1988 For Teen Dolls. By Marjory Fainges. 
Pub Kangaroo Press 1987. I have included this for any one who has time to dress 
Barbie and Ken as a memento of the production.                                
                                                 I hope this helps. Lots of 
luck with the production. Regards Joy    
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Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 12:51:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I'm just about to do a gown from the mid 14th century Bohemia-German, (could be France, too). It will be for a man from a lower aristocratic class. So that's why I'm looking for some inspiration:-))
   
  Zuzana
   
  
Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
  
On Fri, 23 Feb 2007, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> P.S.: If someone knew of a manuscript such as the codex manesse
> reprinted in a book, it would be very nice:-))

There are hundreds of such manuscript reprints, too many to list unless
you can cite a specific time/place. Some of these are art books called
"manuscript facsimiles," which are page-by-page reproductions of full
manuscripts. Others are art books about manuscript painting. Many are very
expensive -- I know of two brilliant reproductions of the Manesse that are
too expensive for my budget, but are in many libraries. (And it's online,
too.)

To get a good sense of what's out there, go to your nearest major library
or university library and look in the *oversize* section under the subject
heading of manuscript illumination or manuscript paintings. You'll find
titles like "Manuscript Painting in the Court of France"; once you've
found one, you'll find a shelf full.

If you can tell us exactly what time and place you're interested in, we
can probably point you to specific titles. I have about two bookshelves of
manuscript facsimiles and collections of manuscript art that's mostly 14th
and 15th c. English-French-Flemish, so you can see why I don't want to
start listing here. But perhaps someone who already has their collection
on Librarything would be willing to point Zuzana to a list of suitable
books? (Wanda?)

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
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On Feb 24, 2007, at 12:51 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> I'm just about to do a gown from the mid 14th century Bohemia- 
> German, (could be France, too). It will be for a man from a lower  
> aristocratic class. So that's why I'm looking for some inspiration:-))
>

If you think that surviving garments from early 14th c. Bohemia might  
help you in this research, look into the burial garments of King  
Rudolf I of Bohemia.  If you go to my surviving garments database  
online <http://www.heatherrosejones.com/survivinggarments/ 
choosegarment.php>  and simply select: (Modern) Country of Garment =  
Czech Republic, all the items currently in the database with that  
characteristic are the Rudolf grave garments.  I don't know how easy  
the cited pubications will be to track down, but they include cutting  
diagrams and lots of pictures as well as descriptions.

Heather

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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Hello, all.

Anyone planning an Italian Renn gown in the near future?

I found this message in my inbox this morning.  I have no affiliation 
with Haberman Fabrics, just a very happy customer for many years.

Michelle

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Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 00:22:59 -0500
From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Mamma Mia! Italian Velvet Sale!
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Sorry folks, I heard my forwarded message didn't go through.
Here's the text version (Italian Renn folks take note):



Just Arrived!
Mamma Mia!!! Such Bellissimo
ITALIAN VELVET
30% OFF
4 DAYS ONLY
Thursday thru Sunday, March 1-4

Don't miss this great buy on Haberman Fabrics
VERY SPECIAL PURCHASE
of incredible decorator velvets.
Solid and cut styles in contemporary and traditional designs.

Fabulous for furniture upholstery and accessories, like pillows, runners 
and more. Plus coats, capes, jackets, purses and totes.
For amazing period costumes too.


Special Introductory Price
only $25.98 or $27.98 per yard

Regular retail values of this fine quality velvet to $80 per yard,
With cut order values to $160 per yard.

HABERMAN FABRICS
everyday low price is just
$36.98 or $39.98 per yard
	

Luxurious VELVET
ON SALE
in our Special Occasion Department

Soft and sensuous VELVET knows no season
for beautiful shirts, skirts and dresses, pants, scarves, shawls and 
jackets.

25% OFF
Rayon & Silk, Polyester, Solids, Prints & Devoré Styles

40% OFF
SELECT VELVETS
A selection of Cotton Velvets, Devoré Styles, Designer Velvets & Prints

25% OFF
VELVET RIBBONS
Velvet Accents for your garments, purses, home accessories, hair ribbons 
and craft projects.


See you soon!
Your friends at Haberman Fabrics
905 S. Main Street
Royal Oak, MI 48067
(248) 541-0010
http://www.habermanfabrics.com
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Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 01:32:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks for that link! I didn't know someone has done such a research about surviving garments... I think this won't help me much directly in this project, but it'll surely help me in the future:-))

Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net> wrote:
  
On Feb 24, 2007, at 12:51 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> I'm just about to do a gown from the mid 14th century Bohemia- 
> German, (could be France, too). It will be for a man from a lower 
> aristocratic class. So that's why I'm looking for some inspiration:-))
>

If you think that surviving garments from early 14th c. Bohemia might 
help you in this research, look into the burial garments of King 
Rudolf I of Bohemia. If you go to my surviving garments database 
online choosegarment.php> and simply select: (Modern) Country of Garment = 
Czech Republic, all the items currently in the database with that 
characteristic are the Rudolf grave garments. I don't know how easy 
the cited pubications will be to track down, but they include cutting 
diagrams and lots of pictures as well as descriptions.

Heather

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] silk jersey knit
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Hi,
Found out James Hare has silk jersey and i wondered do you think i could sew 
gentlemens stockings from this?
18th century?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 14:08:08 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures
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You may also find this website from the Czech Republic of interest

http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/obsah.htm

Beth

At 01:00 PM 2/25/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 01:32:19 -0800 (PST)
>From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
>
>Thanks for that link! I didn't know someone has done such a research about 
>surviving garments... I think this won't help me much directly in this 
>project, but it'll surely help me in the future:-))

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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000501c75910$21165910$7b43a150@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk jersey knit
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 17:16:35 -0700
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Status: RO

Probably....I don't do gentleman's clothing (or 18th century, although I
dream of some day having a gown or two), but I'd think that the silk knit
would do fine.  I know that, during the period about which I know the most
(16th c. England), there were both knitted and woven-cloth hose, so if I
were going to use something like silk jersey, I'd probably base them on
extant examples.  You might have to play with bits of it, to test for
stretch, etc.  Silk's not the most resilient of fibers, and I've never had
any that was knitted as fine as a jersey, so I don't know how the
non-stretchy silk and the stretchy knit construction would interact around
your ankles, etc.  I'm determined to make myself a pair of "Eleanor"
stockings some day, and I haven't been in a yarn store, yet, that hasn't
tried to talk me out of doing 100% silk--most recommend a blend, without
understanding the whole recreationist thing....
--Sue in wintery Montana, where she's given up on Spring, and *bought*
herself a pot of blooming crocus this afternoon....

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 12:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] silk jersey knit


> Hi,
> Found out James Hare has silk jersey and i wondered do you think i could
sew
> gentlemens stockings from this?
> 18th century?
>
> Bjarne


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From: "Anna Zola Piggie Rethie" <tartanwaffle@gmail.com>
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>
> Hi Anna You can properly get these books on ILL
> Duck and Cabbage Tree (1967) later re issued as  Clothes in Australia. By
> Cedric Flower. Pub. Kangaroo Press 1984
>                  Costume in Australia  By Marion Fletcher. Pub Oxford
> University Press 1984 I think this is the book that has a list of clothing
> provided
> to the convicts, both male and female Sorry book not to hand for checking.
>
>                 Breeches and Bustles  An illustrated history of clothes
> worn
> in Australia 1788-1914 By Elizabeth Scandrett.  Pub. Pioneer Design Studio
> 1988                             Hatches Matches and Dispatches. By Rowena
> Clark. National Gallery of Victoria 1987 This has a nice picture of a
> wedding gown
> approx. 1789 that went out of England (not white it would do for day dress
> design)
>                          The Remote Garrison. The British army in
> Australia.
> By Peter Stanley. Pub. Kangaroo Press 1986. I can't recall if the marines
> are
> shown in this book. I don't have it to hand at the moment to check.
>                                                              The Dress of
> the British Sailor. By Admiral Sir Gerald Dickens. Pub National Maritime
> Museum
> 1957  A small paper back with pictures for sailor costume of 1737 1750
> 1790
> 1795 1798 and 1799
>           Australian Costume 1788-1988 For Teen Dolls. By Marjory Fainges.
> Pub Kangaroo Press 1987. I have included this for any one who has time to
> dress
> Barbie and Ken as a memento of the production.
>                                                 I hope this helps. Lots of
> luck with the production. Regards Joy


 Oh, indeed, that's tremendously helpful. I've ILL'ed them all, hopefully
they won't take ten years to get here. Thanks to everybody who's responded
to this.
My plan for the marines is to chop up a bunch of red wool blazers and modify
them so they're pretty and redcoatty. I've got a navy-type coat, and some
fall-front navy pants, for our midshipman. I've also got an 18th century-ish
dress and a corsetty-thing which I plan to dye. Whoever used to be in charge
of costume was not really big on the historical accuracy thing, but I mean
to change that.
The overall costume design is due March 12th, and the one thing I don't have
a fixed idea about is the aborigine. Does anyone know any books or othe
resources about the aborigines in general that would have helpful
information or pictures?
Much thanks,
Anna


-- 
>From Her Royal Majesty, Anna Zola Piggie Rethie, Queen of Cheese
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Status: RO

On Saturday 24 February 2007 12:20 am, Wanda Pease wrote:
[snip]
> Because Ian Stevens is My Man at Davis Brown books I made the same deal
> with them and bought the book about Anglo Saxon stuff as well.  Yes I have
> a copy of the first printing, but the second should make a great wedding or
> Laureling Present!

If you mean the second edition of Gale Owen-Crocker's "Dress in Anglo-Saxon 
England", I agree!  You won't be disappointed.  I had the 1st edition when I 
bought my copy of the second edition of the book, and the 2d edition has so 
much more information, it almost seems like a totally different book.

On the other hand, Penelope Walton Rogers's "Cloth and Clothing in Anglo-Saxon 
England" is not yet out, though Ian just sent me e-mail claiming that "it's 
getting closer"....

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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 Can anyone make some similar recommendations for the sixteenth century? I'm especially fond of England and Flanders between 1530 and 1580, but anything from about 1470 to 1600 interests me as well. 



I have a copy of the German Housebook and Holbein's Dance of Death, which are really cool, but I'd love to know of anything else out there.



Tea Rose


  
Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
  
On Fri, 23 Feb 2007, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> P.S.: If someone knew of a manuscript such as the codex manesse
> reprinted in a book, it would be very nice:-))

There are hundreds of such manuscript reprints, too many to list unless
you can cite a specific time/place. 
   
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Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 15:22:22 -0800
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: medieval book with pictures
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Status: RO

If you can find it, English Icon is fabulous for the period you want.
I believe it's by Roy Strong (it's at home, I'm here and I haven't
looked at it for a while). The up side: it's got practically every
portrait you've ever wanted painted in England in the 16C. The
downside: that it's been out of print forever, it's hard and expensive
to find and it's all in black and white. I lucked out and bought a
first edition from someone's library before they put it up for sale
several years ago. Even then, it was pricy.

Good hunting,
LynnD

On 2/26/07, tearoses@aol.com <tearoses@aol.com> wrote:
>  Can anyone make some similar recommendations for the sixteenth century? I'm especially fond of England and Flanders between 1530 and 1580, but anything from about 1470 to 1600 interests me as well.
>
>
>
> I have a copy of the German Housebook and Holbein's Dance of Death, which are really cool, but I'd love to know of anything else out there.
>
>
>
> Tea Rose
>
>
>
> Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
>
> On Fri, 23 Feb 2007, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
>
> > P.S.: If someone knew of a manuscript such as the codex manesse
> > reprinted in a book, it would be very nice:-))
>
> There are hundreds of such manuscript reprints, too many to list unless
> you can cite a specific time/place.
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Check out the new AOL.  Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 19:48:27 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: medieval book with pictures
In-reply-to: <8296995c0702261522r5597e439s9670bd3c1d7b24e4@mail.gmail.com>
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Status: RO

16th C. English: Queen Elizabeths Wardrobe unlocked.Has a lot of B&W detail
pics

16th C Florentine: Moda di Firenze

These are both "clothing oriented" but both have tons of pics.

You can also look on line and find thousands of pics in museums and art
sights.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Lynn Downward
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 6:22 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: medieval book with pictures


If you can find it, English Icon is fabulous for the period you want.
I believe it's by Roy Strong (it's at home, I'm here and I haven't
looked at it for a while). The up side: it's got practically every
portrait you've ever wanted painted in England in the 16C. The
downside: that it's been out of print forever, it's hard and expensive
to find and it's all in black and white. I lucked out and bought a
first edition from someone's library before they put it up for sale
several years ago. Even then, it was pricy.

Good hunting,
LynnD

On 2/26/07, tearoses@aol.com <tearoses@aol.com> wrote:
>  Can anyone make some similar recommendations for the sixteenth century?
I'm especially fond of England and Flanders between 1530 and 1580, but
anything from about 1470 to 1600 interests me as well.
>
>
>
> I have a copy of the German Housebook and Holbein's Dance of Death, which
are really cool, but I'd love to know of anything else out there.
>
>
>
> Tea Rose
>
>
>
> Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
>
> On Fri, 23 Feb 2007, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
>
> > P.S.: If someone knew of a manuscript such as the codex manesse
> > reprinted in a book, it would be very nice:-))
>
> There are hundreds of such manuscript reprints, too many to list unless
> you can cite a specific time/place.
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Check out the new AOL.  Most comprehensive set of free safety and security
tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web,
free AOL Mail and more.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Status: RO

Very Nice!  Thank you,

Vrederun

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Beth and Bob Matney" <bmatney@alltel.net>

> You may also find this website from the Czech Republic of interest

> http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/obsah.htm

> Beth


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Silk jersey
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Status: RO

Once upon a time, I had a couple of silk jersey T-shirts.  From what 
I remember about them, the stretch and recovery were pretty 
good.  Granted, there is more movement and stretch needed in 
stockings.  The neat thing about the T-shirts was that they were so 
light, it almost felt like you weren't wearing anything, but they 
added warmth to a simple shirt worn over them.

Sandy

At 01:02 PM 2/26/2007, you wrote:

>Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 20:06:58 +0100
>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Subject: [h-cost] silk jersey knit
>
>Hi,
>Found out James Hare has silk jersey and i wondered do you think i could sew
>gentlemens stockings from this?
>18th century?
>
>Bjarne
>
>Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 17:16:35 -0700
>From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk jersey knit
>
>Probably...  You might have to play with bits of it, to test for
>stretch, etc.  Silk's not the most resilient of fibers, and I've never had
>any that was knitted as fine as a jersey, so I don't know how the
>non-stretchy silk and the stretchy knit construction would interact around
>your ankles, etc.
>--Sue in wintery Montana, where she's given up on Spring, and *bought*
>herself a pot of blooming crocus this afternoon....

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1530s Tudor kirtle & gown
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Status: RO

Hi all,

{sorry for the crossposting}

I finally got the photos for my Tudor kirtle & gown processed, and they are now up for viewing. I will do a writeup later, when my head is back on straight.

http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/1530sTudor

The photos were taken so I could better see what was going on, so I can then make adjustments. Like, right now I don't like the pleats I made (done in a rush), so they will be remade, once my weight goes down a bit (sometime before October is when I need to do that). I also normally wear a placard over the front, but took it off since I haven't finished the hooks & eyes (or proper pinning) to hold that in place. So now you get to see the raw front, which is also period to wear it that way, like when one is pregnant. I also need to make a better lace.

But overall, I like the look, even as big as I currently am. Sadly tho, the outfit no longer fits as I've been loosing weight since I finished the whole thing. Ah well, it will be refitted later.

Kimiko
   
   

 
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Kimiko Small wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> {sorry for the crossposting}
> 
> I finally got the photos for my Tudor kirtle & gown processed, and they are now up for viewing. 
> http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/1530sTudor


Lovely outfit. I love the fabric in the peach colored undergown. I 
searched all over for something just like that for my wedding dress.

What kind of fabric is it, and where did you find it?



Dawn


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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1530s Tudor kirtle & gown
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Thank you Dawn.
   
  The peach colored fabric is a changeable taffeta in gold and peach. I bought it from http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/ , but I don't know if she has anymore. I have seen similar colored silk taffeta fabric from www.denverfabrics.com from time to time.
   
  And someday I will have matching foresleeves. I just need to wait until my weight loss is done.
   
  Kimiko
  

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  Lovely outfit. I love the fabric in the peach colored undergown. I 
searched all over for something just like that for my wedding dress.

What kind of fabric is it, and where did you find it?



Dawn

 
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Status: RO

Heather,
I had not known about your data base before, and just ran my first  
search on it. WHAT an amazing tool! Thank you for providing this!
Best,
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Feb 24, 2007, at 4:08 PM, Heather Rose Jones wrote:

>
> On Feb 24, 2007, at 12:51 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
>
>> I'm just about to do a gown from the mid 14th century Bohemia- 
>> German, (could be France, too). It will be for a man from a lower  
>> aristocratic class. So that's why I'm looking for some  
>> inspiration:-))
>>
>
> If you think that surviving garments from early 14th c. Bohemia  
> might help you in this research, look into the burial garments of  
> King Rudolf I of Bohemia.  If you go to my surviving garments  
> database online <http://www.heatherrosejones.com/survivinggarments/ 
> choosegarment.php>  and simply select: (Modern) Country of Garment  
> = Czech Republic, all the items currently in the database with that  
> characteristic are the Rudolf grave garments.  I don't know how  
> easy the cited pubications will be to track down, but they include  
> cutting diagrams and lots of pictures as well as descriptions.
>
> Heather
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

 
I've used it for stockings before, a couple of times (not *strictly*  
accurate, but it works).
 
Not sure how long they last, but I've never had any complaints.
 
Debs
 
 
 
In a message dated 27/02/2007 20:26:19 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

>Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 20:06:58 +0100
>From: "Bjarne og Leif  Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Subject: [h-cost] silk jersey  knit
>
>Hi,
>Found out James Hare has silk jersey and i  wondered do you think i could sew
>gentlemens stockings from  this?
>18th century?
>
>Bjarne


 
   
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Greetings,

I know someone who is having trouble finding sources for research Polish 
and Lithuanian dress 1550-1650.  He has the Irina Turnau book and images 
from the Balthasaris Behem manuscript and a few paintings.  In 
particular, he is researching clothing of the noble class, but not that 
of the court.  What he needs is ways to find more info and color images 
of clothing from this time, place, and social class, and more 
importantly, someone who speaks Polish who can direct him to sources of 
information on the topic.  Books, websites, museums--all suggestions are 
welcome.  Any Polish-speaker who can direct him to more info would be 
most appreciated.

Please reply to me privately at melanie@faucet.net.

Many thanks,
Melanie Schuessler

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I'm trying to find some decorator fabric that was part of Joann's 2005/06 collection (pre-Christopher Lowell).
   
  Last year I bought just enough of this fabric for my wedding dress/sideless surcotte from Joann's decorator fabric department. I would love to find more, however that must have been a very popular color as I can find the fabric at Joann's, but none left in the right color. I've googled every way I can think of, and come up with similar things, but without a swatch I don't want to buy.
   
  I don't want to cut up my wedding dress, but have discovered that we chose virtually the same color in paint for our living/dining room trim and I would love to make some throw pillows and accessories from the same stuff.
   
  I thought I wrote it down correctly in my notes - but am not sure. It is a cotton, jacquard/brocade 54" fabric called either Zemadia or Zemaida - but could be with an 'N' - Zenadia and the color is blueberry. It does not look like what I would consider "blueberry" color, it is definitely blue, but not a purplish-blue.
   
  Does anyone have any ideas/resources/suggestions?
   
  Thanks
   
  Annette T

 
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Kahlara wrote:

> I'm trying to find some decorator fabric that was part of Joann's 2005/06 collection (pre-Christopher Lowell).
>    
>   
>   Does anyone have any ideas/resources/suggestions?
>   

Do you have any photos of the fabric, or can you put a section of the 
dress on a scanner so we can see what it looks like?


Dawn


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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-cost] ISO Polish 16th-17th c. info and contact
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Status: RO

This bibliography may help:
http://www.faena.medievaltextiles.org/biblio.html

Beth

>Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 10:30:33 -0600
>From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>
>I know someone who is having trouble finding sources for research Polish
>and Lithuanian dress 1550-1650.  He has the Irina Turnau book and images
>from the Balthasaris Behem manuscript and a few paintings.  In
>particular, he is researching clothing of the noble class, but not that
>of the court.  What he needs is ways to find more info and color images
>of clothing from this time, place, and social class, and more
>importantly, someone who speaks Polish who can direct him to sources of
>information on the topic.  Books, websites, museums--all suggestions are
>welcome.  Any Polish-speaker who can direct him to more info would be
>most appreciated.
>
>Please reply to me privately at melanie@faucet.net.
>
>Many thanks,
>Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-cost] ISO Polish 16th-17th c. info and contact
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Status: RO

Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> This bibliography may help:
> http://www.faena.medievaltextiles.org/biblio.html
> 
> Beth

Thanks, Beth!

I sent that to him earlier today, and he's excited about several items.

Melanie

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trying to find fabric from last year - somewhat OT
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 18:42:55 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I assume you asked  someone at Joanns if they could locate it?

Sylvia

On Feb 28, 2007, at 10:38 AM, Kahlara wrote:

> I'm trying to find some decorator fabric that was part of Joann's 
> 2005/06 collection (pre-Christopher Lowell).
>
>   Last year I bought just enough of this fabric for my wedding 
> dress/sideless surcotte from Joann's decorator fabric department. I 
> would love to find more, however that must have been a very popular 
> color as I can find the fabric at Joann's, but none left in the right 
> color. I've googled every way I can think of, and come up with similar 
> things, but without a swatch I don't want to buy.
>
>   I don't want to cut up my wedding dress, but have discovered that we 
> chose virtually the same color in paint for our living/dining room 
> trim and I would love to make some throw pillows and accessories from 
> the same stuff.
>
>   I thought I wrote it down correctly in my notes - but am not sure. 
> It is a cotton, jacquard/brocade 54" fabric called either Zemadia or 
> Zemaida - but could be with an 'N' - Zenadia and the color is 
> blueberry. It does not look like what I would consider "blueberry" 
> color, it is definitely blue, but not a purplish-blue.
>
>   Does anyone have any ideas/resources/suggestions?
>
>   Thanks
>
>   Annette T
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a PS3 game guru.
> Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! 
> Games.
> _______________________________________________
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>
Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com
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