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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Extant Rennaisance Spanish Dress
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Status: RO

Hello all,

I have just updated my website dealing with renaissance spanish women's
garb. Recently I came across several new images of extant garments and found
new URLs to some older links, which I hadn't yet uploaded... oops;)
http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm

I'm trusting the provenance for the Isabel de valois and Isabel Clara
Eugenia gowns are well established, but they do seem genuine if altered. The
Isabel de Valois (red) is particularly inspiring for me as I have just made
a new jerkin in red and am thinking of finishing the skirt and adding
sleeves and embroidering the heck out of them all;)! Also of course I now am
just itching to get to Spain as well as Germany to seek all these hidden
treasures.

I also came across many new portraits which I'll slowly add to my site as I
go. If you are curious I have already posted them to my costuming journal:
http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com
(if anyone happens to come across this in an h-cost mail archive it will be
around the 28th Feb-1st March 2007.)
Several of these are Dutch and it is tempting to add yet another setion to
my site;)

Michaela de Bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant Rennaisance Spanish Dress
Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2007 15:24:55 +0000
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Status: RO

I could go all day just looking through your site!  Fabulous!
Gia

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> 

> Hello all, 
> 
> I have just updated my website dealing with renaissance spanish women's 
> garb. Recently I came across several new images of extant garments and found 
> new URLs to some older links, which I hadn't yet uploaded... oops;) 
> http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm 
> 
> I'm trusting the provenance for the Isabel de valois and Isabel Clara 
> Eugenia gowns are well established, but they do seem genuine if altered. The 
> Isabel de Valois (red) is particularly inspiring for me as I have just made 
> a new jerkin in red and am thinking of finishing the skirt and adding 
> sleeves and embroidering the heck out of them all;)! Also of course I now am 
> just itching to get to Spain as well as Germany to seek all these hidden 
> treasures. 
> 
> I also came across many new portraits which I'll slowly add to my site as I 
> go. If you are curious I have already posted them to my costuming journal: 
> http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com 
> (if anyone happens to come across this in an h-cost mail archive it will be 
> around the 28th Feb-1st March 2007.) 
> Several of these are Dutch and it is tempting to add yet another setion to 
> my site;) 
> 
> Michaela de Bruce 
> http://costumes.glittersweet.com 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trying to find fabric from last year - somewhat OT
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Status: RO

http://www.fabrics.net/swatch/

Try this - manufacturers and dealers scan it for stuff they can find for 
you.  I've had great response from it in the past.

Sg 

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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] A New Book to Look Forward To. :-)
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Status: RO

Oops. I cross-posted this yesterday but forgot to post it here! I thought I=
'd give you all the heavily abridged version though. :-) If you have any qu=
estions, just ask!=0A=0ANew costume book in the works - a translation of Ce=
sare Vecellio's costume books of 1590/98.=0A(The e-mail I received from Ann=
 Rosalind Jones just a few hours ago. "Tita" is Margaret Rosenthal, both au=
thors are professors of Comparative Literature...)=0A=0A"Ah, Bella!=0A=0AOf=
 course, Tita and I have seen your website. Nice to meet you, if only by em=
ail.=0A=0AThames and Hudson will be the distributor of our book everywhere =
except in the US, where it'll be distributed by WW Norton. You'll love the =
version T and H are doing--it includes 100 color images, many from portrait=
s of people wearing the specific garments named and described by Vecellio--=
whose commentary is fascinating on many levels. He mentions textiles, color=
s, accessories, ideal body types . . . lots of things that'll interest you.=
 I just wish it were coming out sooner--but fall 2009 sounds like the earli=
est likely date. Tita and I are now collecting tranparencies and permission=
s for the images. What a task!=0A=0ADo, by all means, tell your costume all=
ies about the book. I could send you some snippets from our translation now=
, if you'd like. Just let me know if there are particular figures in the Do=
ver that you'd like to read V's descriptions of.=0A=0Aall best,=0AAnnie"=0A=
=0AOk. THAT should explain why I was hyperventilating, even if it's not tha=
t exciting to anyone else........LOL.....Of course I'm going to say 'yes, p=
lease' to her offer, and I will keep you all posted. :-)=0A=0AHere's the ni=
tty-gritty, and remember you heard it here first!=0A=0AMargaret Rosenthal; =
The Clothing of the Renaissance World: Cesare Vecellio's Costume Book (1590=
/1598), edited and translated with Ann R. Jones (Thames and Hudson, forthco=
ming 2007), including introduction, technical glossary and notes.=0A=0AThe =
mouth-watering article that will give you a better idea of what the book is=
 all about: "Translating Fashion: Customs and Clothes in the Age of Explora=
tion, By Laura Wolff Scanlan"=0Ahttp://www.neh.gov/news/humanities/2005-01/=
translating.html=0A=0A=0A=0ABella=0A=0ASend instant messages to your online=
 friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com 
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From: Jodi Nelson <faerieglenstudios@yahoo.com>
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Do you happen to have the cutting slip or receipt?{ I know , a long shot.} If you do the SKU # is on it and they can do a search for you. I used to work there.

Jodi 

 
---------------------------------
Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
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Subject: [h-cost] Your work wanted for a Tudor Fashion TV special
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Hello, All --

Forgive me for repeating what some of you already know, if you also =
belong
to the Tudor Tailor and TV/Film yahoo groups we've been talking all =
week,  I
want to extend this invitation to one and all.=20

I'm looking for good, clear photographs of you and your work for =
possible
inclusion in an upcoming 1/2 hour national cable TV special on =
Showtime's
new original series, "The Tudors," starring Jonathan Rhys Meyers as a =
young
Henry VIII.=20

Things I'm interested in seeing:=20

1. Images of you or others in Tudor garments you've created -- =
particularly
Tudor royalty: Henry VIII, Anne Boleyn, especially. But a Charles =
Brandon
would be fantastic, too.=20

2. Strong, clear images of you or others as re-enactors that feature the
costumes.

3. Any photos of you incorporating Tudor-inspired fashion or accessories =
in
contemporary day to day life.=20

4. Any photos of costume or art-to-wear inspired by the Tudor fashion or
Henry VIII=20
=20
5. Links to your Tudor-related websites or businesses.



These images will be used to illustrate a segment on how Tudor fashion =
is
still alive and well -- and thriving -- centuries after Henry VIII. =
Because
there is a strong dedication to authenticity and historical accuracy in
these groups, I want to make this point and I need supporting images to
prove it.

I can't guarantee your work will make it into the show or even into the
final edit and we can't pay you. However, we WILL give you an on-screen
credit and national exposure to millions and millions of viewers. And =
I'll
make sure you get a DVD of the fashion special for your own archives.=20

The special will being airing in April -- first on The Style Network. =
Then
possibly on the E! channel. And also on Showtime "On Demand" and =
probably
Showtime itself.=20

LEGAL STUFF: You'll be given a Rights and Clearances release form to =
sign,
giving us permission to use your images. Please note that if there are
recognizable faces in your photos, you must also get those people to =
sign a
release as well.=20

DEADLINE: Now, basically. I'd like to have your submissions as soon as
possible. By Wednesday, March 7th would be ideal, but if you have =
something
terrific and need more time, that's fine. Let us know what's coming. At =
this
point, feel free to send a sample image. . . but ultimately, the final
product needs to be e-mailed,  put on a CD or scanned and submitted as a
.jpg, .gif or  TIFF file at least of moderate size.  Horizontal shots =
work
better for TV than vertical, but we can make anything work.=20

HOW TO SUBMIT: Please see the boring technical details below. Cat =
Devereaux
is my Project Coordinator  and will be handle the nuts and bolts on the
submission process using a mail box address that can handle the traffic.
(Yahoo isn't the best way to do this.) =20

SUBMISSIONS TO:  e-mail: tudorfashion@alleycatscratch.com=20
=20
Thanks, Everyone.=20

Mary Jo
Supervising Sr. Writer/Producer,
Special Features
SHOWTIME NETWORKS INC.

P.S. If you'd like to see a few teaser trailers for "The Tudors' series
itself, here are two different ones:=20

#1 http://www.sho.com/site/vip/home.do?source=3Dfeb12_blogs =20
Click on red bar that says "Watch Now."
Password is Sneak Peek
Click Submit

#2 http://youtube.com/watch?v=3DSGAXQPVMSx4 =20

P.S.S.  If you want to talk more about Tudor style and Tudor fashions in
today's world, please come join us and chat over in
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tvfilmcostuming/  .  Would love to get =
your
feed back, inspirations and ideas.


*************************************************************************=
***
***********
THE BORING TECHNICAL DETAILS for the Tudor Fashion Special by =
Showtime...

PICTURE FORMATS

We will take your photos anyway we can get them.  We would prefer you =
send
us the images or links, but they may be mailed or CD, or if no scanner =
is
available, photos mail be mailed.

PHOTO SIZE should be 720 x 480 pixels and above. =20

*** To figure out what size your images are.... right click on your =
mouse
and look at "properties", then "dimensions" for the pixels.  If =
confused...
just drop us a line at tudorfashion@alleycatscratch.com or send us the =
photo
and we'll check for you.

If the area of interested (people in costume) is only in the center... =
then
the photo should be big enough so we can chop it down to that size.  Too =
big
is OK.... being better safe than sorry... though prefer you don't send a =
5mb
picture.  We've setup almost a gig of space to take care of these =
photos, so
we won't blow up anyone's personal inboxes.

Photos do not need to be centered.  We can fix that.  But they do need =
to be
sharp and in focus.
 =20
WEB LINK: You may also just send a web link as long as it meets size and
permission criteria.    Do not send a page reference without specifying
WHICH picture/s specifically you're submitting.

If SCANNING a 4x6 or 5x7 --  make sure the photo is clean. Scan moderate =
to
high rez, 150 to 300dpi, whatever you can manage to get enough pixels.
Bare minimum is 72 dpi, but that needs a bigger pic.

If you need to send it on CD, ask for an address off list.

HARD COPY: If you need to send in hard copy of your photos, please write =
us
to make arrangements.  Please try to send a duplicate.  We plan to just =
scan
and send them back... but no guarantees can be made.


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
ALSO INCLUDE WITH EACH SUBMISSION
(All the boring legal stuff...)



Group contact on the photo:
- Legal Name:
- Name to use:
- E-mail address:
- Mailing address:

- Exact name of the photo:
- Where/Event (optional):
- General info (just background for the folks selecting photos, who =
you're
playing, any fun info etc):

For each person in the photo AND the person who has rights to release =
the
photo...
- Legal Name:
- Name to use:
- Description of which person they are in the photo:

(Personal information will be kept confidential.)

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
WHAT TO SUBMIT

As mentioned above, we are looking for both hardcore Tudor as well as
Renaissance Faire/SCA Tudor outfits.  Non-peasants.  Anything that
celebrates the era royally.  (Upper-class OK.) =20

If you've got close up of Tudor style jewelry or accessories that might =
play
in fashion today, we want to see it.  Rings, necklaces, etc... throw =
those
on a scarf and photograph them for modern fashion takes on "Tudor =
Style".

Also, any art-to-wear or fantasy costume pieces that celebrate the Tudor =
era
and style.  Include detail shots if applicable.=20

Don't forget, we'd also like links to your Tudor-related websites or
businesses

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

WHERE TO SUBMIT

Please send your photo/s to tudorfashion@alleycatscratch.com  .  Send =
any
extra questions to this address as well.  Anything at all

++++++++++++++++++++
PERMISSIONS

You do not need to have signed permissions yet, you just need to know =
that
you can get permission to use the photo and of the folks in the photo by
next week (or shortly there afterwards).  Any face that is =
'recognizable'
needs to be able to OK their own image.)  So, basically we're doing =
honor
system here at this point to speed selection along.

If the photo is selected, you will be receiving an official release from
Showtime. There are no guarantees on anything.  Accepted photos may or =
may
not be used.  (Note: initial selection does not guarantee the picture =
being
in the final cut.)

++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Hey folks, despite the couple of hoops, needed... please do take a =
moment
and submit your costumes and accessories.  Encourage your friends and =
sewing
circle companions to join too. It's a great chance to share your art =
with
the world.

Please feel free to forward...

- Cat Devereaux -
Project Coordinator







 =20

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your work wanted for a Tudor Fashion TV special
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Status: RO


> Forgive me for repeating what some of you already know, if you also belong
> to the Tudor Tailor and TV/Film yahoo groups we've been talking all week,  I
> want to extend this invitation to one and all. 

What is the TV/FILM group and how do I reach it?

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your work wanted for a Tudor Fashion TV special
Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2007 12:57:22 -0800
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Status: RO

Fran,
Here's the link,

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tvfilmcostuming/

The history (all of about 2 weeks) is too complicated for me to go into 
right now, but it has the potential to be very interesting, even after the 
current "The Tudors" buzz dies down.

Laurie

>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your work wanted for a Tudor Fashion TV special
>Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2007 11:46:27 -0800
>
>
>>Forgive me for repeating what some of you already know, if you also belong
>>to the Tudor Tailor and TV/Film yahoo groups we've been talking all week,  
>>I
>>want to extend this invitation to one and all.
>
>What is the TV/FILM group and how do I reach it?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press
>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2007 22:03:50 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your work wanted for a Tudor Fashion TV special
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Status: RO

At 19:38 02/03/2007, you wrote:
>Hello, All --
>
>Forgive me for repeating what some of you already know, if you also belong
>to the Tudor Tailor and TV/Film yahoo groups we've been talking all week,  I
>want to extend this invitation to one and all.
>
>I'm looking for good, clear photographs of you and your work for possible
>inclusion in an upcoming 1/2 hour national cable TV special on Showtime's
>new original series, "The Tudors," starring Jonathan Rhys Meyers as a young
>Henry VIII.
>
>Things I'm interested in seeing:
>
>1. Images of you or others in Tudor garments you've created -- particularly
>Tudor royalty: Henry VIII, Anne Boleyn, especially. But a Charles Brandon
>would be fantastic, too.
>
>2. Strong, clear images of you or others as re-enactors that feature the
>costumes.
>
>3. Any photos of you incorporating Tudor-inspired fashion or accessories in
>contemporary day to day life.
>
>4. Any photos of costume or art-to-wear inspired by the Tudor fashion or
>Henry VIII
>
>5. Links to your Tudor-related websites or businesses.



Is this solely for American costumers or can anyone play?

Suzi

English Costume Maker 

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Status: RO

Suzi Clarke wrote:
> Is this solely for American costumers or can anyone play?

Hi Suzi,

         Anyone can play no matter where they are! you're welcome to 
join in the fun.

		-Judy Mitchell (co-owner Alley Cat Scratch Costume)
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Subject: [h-cost] A New Book to Look Forward To.
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Status: RO

 
I had the opportunity to meet Margaret Rosenthal earlier this week and hear  
a lecture on the translation.  The book sounds like it will be fabulous for  
clothing content, including a glossary on fabrics, cuts and colors.  They  have 
done extensive research on fabrics, tracing the weaves back, which helps to  
explain some of their names.  According to Miss Rosenthal, the book should  be 
coming out in around nine months (time for Christmas!), and she expects it to 
 price around $75.  The first print run will be 4,000.
 
I had never known until the lecture that the Dover edition was an abridged  
version.  The amount of Vecellio's commentary was extensive, a description  of 
each figure in the woodcut from head to toe.  Having a full translation  will 
be a really wonderful addition to the library!
 
Nancy Stengel Ulmer

<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free 
email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at 
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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A New Book to Look Forward To.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

It will be a wonderful book! :-)=0A=0AHowever, the information given me by =
her co-writer Ann Rosalind Jones is that the book isn't due out until fall =
or winter 2009. I can tell you, there are lots of us who wish it was availa=
ble for christmas this year, or even next! I can enquire as to whether ther=
e was a miscommunication on Ms Rosenthal's part if you like, to be sure, bu=
t Ann has mentioned 2009 to me several times so I'm sure that she at least =
is fairly certain.=0A=0AMs Jones has offered to share some of her translati=
ons with me, and as soon as I receive them I'd be happy to share them with =
others if there's interest. =0A=0A =0ABella=0A=0A----- Original Message ---=
-=0AFrom: "MaddNancy@aol.com" <MaddNancy@aol.com>=0ATo: h-costume@indra.com=
=0ASent: Saturday, 3 March, 2007 11:33:47 AM=0ASubject: [h-cost] A New Book=
 to Look Forward To.=0A=0A=0AI had the opportunity to meet Margaret Rosenth=
al earlier this week and hear  =0Aa lecture on the translation.  The book s=
ounds like it will be fabulous for  =0Aclothing content, including a glossa=
ry on fabrics, cuts and colors.  They  have =0Adone extensive research on f=
abrics, tracing the weaves back, which helps to  =0Aexplain some of their n=
ames.  According to Miss Rosenthal, the book should  be =0Acoming out in ar=
ound nine months (time for Christmas!), and she expects it to =0Aprice arou=
nd $75.  The first print run will be 4,000.=0A=0AI had never known until th=
e lecture that the Dover edition was an abridged  =0Aversion.  The amount o=
f Vecellio's commentary was extensive, a description  of =0Aeach figure in =
the woodcut from head to toe.  Having a full translation  will =0Abe a real=
ly wonderful addition to the library!=0A=0ANancy Stengel Ulmer=0A=0ASend in=
stant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com 
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From: "Cat Devereaux" <CatDevereaux@alleycatscratch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your work wanted for a Tudor Fashion TV special
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2007 11:24:15 -0800
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Status: RO

>>The history (all of about 2 weeks) is too complicated for me to go =
into=20
right now, but it has the potential to be very interesting, even after =
the=20
current "The Tudors" buzz dies down.

Yea, lots of history, lots of buzz.

What is really good about this project is that the project is going to =
be
broken down in pieces and the historical and re-enactment pieces are =
going
to be kept separate... and away from the "modern styling".  It WILL NOT =
be
geeks on parade.  They are very excited and are committed to showing a
"celebration of Tudor".  Getting some images in there where the =
costuming
arts will get good noise and air time, is not only fun, but helps our
community in the future. =20

Then again, in the modern section... it's going to be scary.  If we can =
get
them within two centuries...  <sigh>  But, that segment is going to be =
fun
and colorful too.

The net result of all of this is "costume good"... and wow!  Look at =
that
wonderful work.  So, dig into your photo collection and send stuff in =
over
to TudorFashion@alleycatscratch.com .  Can't guarantee what they'll =
pick...
but the better represented we are, the clearer picture we can paint.

And if you want to help define trends for modern fashion, and can handle
generalizations (we were talking about a picture of the Ringo Star =
yesterday
and banger bling),   please come and play.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tvfilmcostuming/ .  Humorous good natured
ranting allowed as long as followed by constructive. =20

-Cat-
(sorry about slower replies but I've got to stay on digest to handle all =
the
mail I'm pre-processing for Showtime)

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] leaf palliettes
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Status: RO

Does anybody know of a place where i can buy some silver leaf palliettes. 
Shaped like leafs?
They dont have to be excactly like these i have here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
And it doesnt matter if they are metal or plastic, when it comes to rare 
things, you cant afford to be crittical.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] leaf palliettes
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Status: RO

On Sunday 04 March 2007 9:14 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Does anybody know of a place where i can buy some silver leaf palliettes.
> Shaped like leafs?
> They dont have to be excactly like these i have here:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
> And it doesnt matter if they are metal or plastic, when it comes to rare
> things, you cant afford to be crittical.

These aren't much like the shape in your design at all, but I plugged the 
words "leaf-shaped sequins" into Google and this was the first thing I found:

http://www.bead-e.co.uk/catalog/sections.php?CategoryName=s&ClassName=27&GroupName=128&SectionName=le


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


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Status: RO

Is anyone watching this new series? It premiered last night on cable and 
will be aired again tonight (Sunday).

I'll reserve comments so as not to spoil it for folks who haven't seen 
it yet.


Dawn

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] BBC Robin Hood
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2007 16:55:48 -0700
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Yeah, it is kinda' cheesy, but I don't care.  I just like the idea that this 
is sort of a
"Cowboy Western" from the English perspective.  Ohhh, to have that kind of 
history.....
It reminds me a little of when I was in China a few years ago.  A couple of 
twenty something year olds were eager to hang around me (I was thrilled) and 
were very amused that I was watching all their traditional "opera" styled 
series on TV.

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 4:04 PM
Subject: [h-cost] BBC Robin Hood


> Is anyone watching this new series? It premiered last night on cable and
> will be aired again tonight (Sunday).
>
> I'll reserve comments so as not to spoil it for folks who haven't seen
> it yet.
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Status: RO

Here are a few pics from the Phoenix Art Museum talk I did last week.  Still 
tweaking the CSS style sheets so bear with me!  I'll be updating some of the 
details for the diary now that I have time .....


http://saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/Actuals/Event/index.htm


Sg
 

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WOW Sq!!!!!!!!!  I love the ruff!  How long did it take to make it?

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.
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At 04:09 PM 3/4/2007, you wrote:
>WOW Sq!!!!!!!!!  I love the ruff!  How long did it take to make it?
>
>Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
>www.costumegallery.com
>www.costumelibrary.com
>www.costumeclassroom.com
>www.costumeencyclopedia.com _______________________________________________

And how many yards long is it?


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] BBC Robin Hood
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At 06:55 PM 3/4/2007, you wrote:

>Yeah, it is kinda' cheesy, but I don't care.  I just like the idea that this
>is sort of a
>"Cowboy Western" from the English perspective.  Ohhh, to have that kind of
>history..... >>


I thoroughly enjoyed it, cheese and all. Come on, it's Robin 
Hood--all I expect from Robin Hood is a good yarn, in a vaguely 
medieval-oid setting, and I got it! My DVR is set to record the 
series, as I am notorious for forgetting to watch things I'm interested in.

Dianne


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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.
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Status: RO


Well, it took a whole dang day just to figure out how to make it.  Another 
day to put the "horsehair  braid" in the 24 yards of silk. (there is one ~2" 
and one 1/2"  braid in opposite ends - uggh I hate this kind of 
sewing....essentially 48 yards of machine sewing straight lines.)  Then, 
several of my fellow meticulous engineer friends offered to come help do the 
measuring and handsewing of 3/4 of the ruff.  (Boy, you know you have good 
friends when they pop up to do this kind of stuff - neither one of them has 
much interest in this kind of sewing.) I figure....about 30 hours total.  If 
you did it every day, you'd probably be much more efficient.

Sg

>From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>

>At 04:09 PM 3/4/2007, you wrote:
>>WOW Sq!!!!!!!!!  I love the ruff!  How long did it take to make it?
>>
>>Penny Ladnier, Owner, The C
>>_______________________________________________
>
>And how many yards long is it?
>
>
>Joan Jurancich
>joanmj@surewest.net
>
>_______________________________________________
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I am thoroughly enjoying this series.  I don’t know much aobut costuming of 
the time, but I don’t even care!!!

Anyone else liking it?

Sg


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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<snip> The overall costume design is due March 12th, and the one thing I 
don't have
> a fixed idea about is the aborigine. Does anyone know any books or othe
> resources about the aborigines in general that would have helpful
> information or pictures?
> Much thanks,
> Anna

You might be able to find early European drawings or watercolours of the 
Aboriginal people in the Sydney area on this page 
http://www.pictureaustralia.org/index.html but they are often portrayed more 
like classical nudes than real people who don't feel the need for clothes.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Status: RO

Love it, love it, love it! We've been watching it on DVD as we don't have 
HBO, and are panting for the next season to be released...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown
http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 8:39 PM
Subject: [h-cost] HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?


>I am thoroughly enjoying this series.  I don’t know much aobut costuming of 
>the time, but I don’t even care!!!
>
> Anyone else liking it?
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2007 15:22:09 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
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Status: RO

Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> I am thoroughly enjoying this series. I don’t know much aobut 
> costuming of the time, but I don’t even care!!!
>
> Anyone else liking it?


I started watching it a while ago, but the "betrothal rights" scene in 
the first episode was enough to make me say "Oh, fercrissake!" and 
switch it off.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2007 00:24:04 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] leaf palliettes
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Status: RO


Bjarne--
You do the most AMAZING things! Beautiful!

Monica



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:15 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] leaf palliettes


Does anybody know of a place where i can buy some silver leaf palliettes. 
Shaped like leafs?
They dont have to be excactly like these i have here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
And it doesnt matter if they are metal or plastic, when it comes to rare 
things, you cant afford to be crittical.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2007 09:40:28 +0000
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <797778.40065.qm@web37506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<46C20BFF-2722-4D59-8205-7EC2367A9B88@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Generalls Musick website at last!
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Some of you may remember that I've been a member of a 17th century music
group since 1998. After various false starts, the group's website has at
last got off the ground and can be seen at
http://www.generallsmusicandplayers.com/



Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Generalls Musick website at last!
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Nice!  Sure wish I were closer.  


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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Hello all!

I am Rebecca and am returning to H-cost after a "leave of absense" due to
child-rearing :) I signed off a bit over a year ago for childbirth, and
figured toddlerhood was a good time to go back to something that might help
me keep my sanity (or lose even more of it - whichever feels better at the
time :)

I do mostly Elizabethan, and am on cast at the Bristol Renn Faire. Being out
of the loop for awhile, I'm wondering if any children's patterns have come
on the market in the past year? Aforementioned toddler will need clothing
for this season. Also, if anyone has good information on leading
strings...toddler will be ~20 months when season starts, and we work around
an open fire, so I want to be able to have control of him at all times.
Leading strings seemed to be a good start :)

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar  5 15:21:04 2007
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: paillets...
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Status: RO

At 12:00 PM -0700 3/4/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>Does anybody know of a place where i can buy some silver leaf palliettes.
>Shaped like leafs?
>They dont have to be excactly like these i have here:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
>And it doesnt matter if they are metal or plastic, when it comes to rare
>things, you cant afford to be crittical.
>
>Bjarne

I just was at a friends house and she showed me this *AWESOME* press. 
It did metal flashing and soda can metal the same as paper. There are 
leaf dies for it was well as flower dies and a bunch of terribly cute 
ones... It's called a Wizzard(sp) and is all the rage amongst the 
stamping/journaling/scrap booking set...

And the results are just what you are looking for!!!!!

Ta
Carol--Darn, new shelves will be full soon <G>
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: paillets...
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Status: RO

At 03:18 PM 3/5/2007, you wrote:
>  just was at a friends house and she showed me this *AWESOME* 
> press. It did metal flashing and soda can metal the same as paper. 
> There are leaf dies for it was well as flower dies and a bunch of 
> terribly cute ones... It's called a Wizzard(sp) and is all the rage 
> amongst the stamping/journaling/scrap booking set...
>
>And the results are just what you are looking for!!!!!
>
>Ta
>Carol--Darn, new shelves will be full soon <G>


Ok, Carol, who amongstus has this wonderful toy? I must see it!

Dianne

SCA known as Laurensa


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Subject: [h-cost] re; Wizard
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Status: RO

Well, this is where you can buy one:
http://store.scrapbooking-warehouse.com/spellbinders.html?gclid=3DCLnfhN_=
T3ooCFSRFSgodADi0uw
Joanne's is selling another brand that is similar (Cuttlebug) and is =
much cheaper - I ordered one Saturday and am eagerly awaiting it.  (We =
don't have a superstore here so half the stuff in the ad was not =
available.)

Janet
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From: "LuAnn Mason" <luann_mason@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: paillets...
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2007 14:23:02 -0800
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Status: RO

AND you can save yourself about thirty bucks on the system buying on =
eBay.  Best part about the Wizard is that it takes all the OTHER =
manufacturer's die cuts.  If you don't find exactly what you want in the =
Wizard line, you can buy someone else's leaf, flower, butterfly, or =
whatever, and the tools are included with the Wizard to make them work.

Doing more scrapping than sewing these days--

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: cahuff<mailto:cahuff@clearviewcatv.net>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 12:18 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Re: paillets...


  At 12:00 PM -0700 3/4/07, =
h-costume-request@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
  >Does anybody know of a place where i can buy some silver leaf =
palliettes.
  >Shaped like leafs?
  >They dont have to be excactly like these i have here:
  >http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
  >And it doesnt matter if they are metal or plastic, when it comes to =
rare
  >things, you cant afford to be crittical.
  >
  >Bjarne

  I just was at a friends house and she showed me this *AWESOME* press.=20
  It did metal flashing and soda can metal the same as paper. There are=20
  leaf dies for it was well as flower dies and a bunch of terribly cute=20
  ones... It's called a Wizzard(sp) and is all the rage amongst the=20
  stamping/journaling/scrap booking set...

  And the results are just what you are looking for!!!!!

  Ta
  Carol--Darn, new shelves will be full soon <G>
  --=20
  Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar  5 17:37:31 2007
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Punches for cloth, was Re: [h-cost] re; Wizard
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2007 17:35:54 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

While we are talking about tools we can borrow from scrapbooking --  
has anyone tried using any kind of paper punches on fabric? I do  
swatch books of the fabrics I sell, and would love to be able to  
cleanly punch two holes through multiple layers of  cloth, so I can  
run a yarn or ribbon through to hold them together. I've been looking  
at the McGill drill-punch (view here: http://www.misterart.com/store/ 
view/001/group_id/7373/McGill-Adjustable-Paper-Drill.htm) but I have  
no experience with it. Do you know if it would work on stacks of cloth?
Thanks!
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Mar 5, 2007, at 5:19 PM, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:

> Well, this is where you can buy one:
> http://store.scrapbooking-warehouse.com/spellbinders.html? 
> gclid=CLnfhN_T3ooCFSRFSgodADi0uw
> Joanne's is selling another brand that is similar (Cuttlebug) and  
> is much cheaper - I ordered one Saturday and am eagerly awaiting  
> it.  (We don't have a superstore here so half the stuff in the ad  
> was not available.)
>
> Janet
> _______________________________________________
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Is it on DVD? I don't have cable. I'll watch if the story is good, unless
the costumes are awful.

Did anyone catch the "new" Dracula, which was just on here (probably last
year's BBC season). I saw about five minutes and couldn't take it after
Lucy's new husband left the wedding to perform some kind of blood-heavy
black mass or something. Everyone usually massacres Dracula in the same
Freudian way, but this looked like an equally stupid way to massacre it. I
sure wish someone would just do the real story. Anyway, I didn't get a
chance to notice the costumes.

Gail Finke

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Everyone usually massacres Dracula in the same
> Freudian way

Well, Bram Stoker _did_ have syphilis; so all those connections between 
sex, transmission of a condition by tainted blood, and death are 
probably not just modern interpretations.

I haven't seen the new Dracula. I just watched my DVD of the new Jane 
Eyre. I would classify it as modernized, in terms of much of the 
language and some of the actions, but emotionally true. Heavily 
romantic.  Some characters have been changed; for example a peripheral 
young man, in the novel, has been changed into an amateur scientist.

As for costumes, I try not to watch films for them too much, it's just 
entertainment. But:  In the novel Jane Eyre perennially wore black wool, 
black silk, or for the very best dove-gray silk in winter; and in the 
summer, she had at least one dress in, if I recall, lilac gingham.  In 
the film she almost always wears a gray cotton dress that doesn't fit 
well in the bodice.

But, it's a good film.  Worth making; though I still wish BBC would 
discover more 19th-century authors instead of perennially refilming Jane 
Austen, Dickens, and a handful of others.  I'd love to see someone film 
Wharton's _The Custom of the Country_.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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Status: RO

 
 

I'm not going to say what I think of the general costuming, but keep an eye  
out in one of the later episodes for Marion (I think - dark haired girl), 
having  a distinctly 60s day!!


   
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: robin hood
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Status: RO

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> Is it on DVD? I don't have cable. I'll watch if the story is good, unless
> the costumes are awful.
> 

You can get more info on the website: http://www.bbcamerica.com/

I can't comment on the story yet. I though the first episode was 
passable in a "Robin Hood meets hip 21st century youth" sort of way. The 
costumes are the usual mix of attempts at authenticity and modern 
fantasy. I'm not sure about the orange (stretch knit?) dress on the 
website, but Marian was in a lovely cream colored gothic fitted gown in 
the first episode. And they had Guy of Gisbourne in a black leather 
trenchcoat...

I'll watch a couple more episodes to see how it goes. :)



Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] Venitian Carnivale costumes
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Status: RO

Folks,

I've been contacted by a man wanting to sell some historically-inspired 
carnivale costumes.

" They are ornately decorated royal blue satin covered with black lace 
and gold braid trim. They were purchased in Venice, Italy from a costume 
designer, and have never been worn."

I have no financial interest in this, just trying to help find a new 
home for these costumes.  If you want to see pictures or talk to the 
owner, email me and I will forward details to you.



Dawn


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Punches for cloth, was Re: [h-cost] re; Wizard
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2007 19:58:54 -0500
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On Monday 05 March 2007 5:35 pm, Lauren Walker wrote:
> While we are talking about tools we can borrow from scrapbooking --
> has anyone tried using any kind of paper punches on fabric? I do
> swatch books of the fabrics I sell, and would love to be able to
> cleanly punch two holes through multiple layers of  cloth, so I can
> run a yarn or ribbon through to hold them together. I've been looking
> at the McGill drill-punch (view here: http://www.misterart.com/store/
> view/001/group_id/7373/McGill-Adjustable-Paper-Drill.htm) but I have
> no experience with it. Do you know if it would work on stacks of cloth?
> Thanks!

I'm not familiar with the McGill. All I know that the kind of hand paper punch 
that looks like the type train conductors use to punch tickets is *not* 
sharp/strong enough to punch clean holes through fabric.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
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On 3/5/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2007 18:39:03 -0700
> From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <BAY133-F330A6319E32395379A3CB5D2840@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
> I am thoroughly enjoying this series.  I don't know much aobut costuming of
> the time, but I don't even care!!!
>
> Anyone else liking it?

Enjoying it thoroughly, less for historical accuracy (I don't know
much about Ancient Rome, but a friend who is a Roman reenactor assures
me they're taking gross liberties) but for the quality acting and
drama. Excellent stuff!
>
> Sg
>
Allison
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From: Susan Carroll-Clark <nicolaa@rogers.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
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Status: RO

Greetings--

A. Thurman wrote:
> On 3/5/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> 
> wrote:
>
> Enjoying it thoroughly, less for historical accuracy (I don't know
> much about Ancient Rome, but a friend who is a Roman reenactor assures
> me they're taking gross liberties) but for the quality acting and
> drama. Excellent stuff!
There are indeed some liberties taken, but far, far fewer than in just 
about any other show about Rome I've seen (with the possible exception 
of I Claudius).  The outlines of historical events are correct, but they 
fill in a lot of storylines (the main two characters are largely 
fictional).  There are also some strikingly good bits--graffiti, some of 
the food described (could come straight from Apicius), the letters 
(which are in an actual hand the Romans used, although to quibble 
they're not using cursive enough, probably because it would look like 
chicken scratch to viewers) and last night's episode had two weddings 
that had the correct ceremonial text and the bride in the correct 
colour.  I've also liked how they treat religion--since this is 
pre-Christian, they've had their work cut out for them to bring some of 
the Roman practices to life, and have generally done pretty well. 
They've touched a lot on the ancestor worship part of the upper classes, 
for instance. 

My only serious quibble about the history so far is with Cicero.  They 
cast him too young, for one thing.  They also chose to portray him 
fairly negatively, as a political opportunist lacking in intestinal 
fortitude.  I think you could make that argument about him, but he also 
clearly struggled with it himself.  Plus, for a man reknowned as the 
most famous orator of his time, he wasn't portrayed as a good speaker at 
all.  On the other hand--I love the portrayals of Caesar and Antony, and 
I think they've gotten Octavian down now that they've switched to an 
older actor with more gravitas.

On the costuming front --the women's clothing has high and low points, 
although I've not seen anything so glaringly bad as what we saw in 
Gladiator.  I can recognize garments or at least what they're based on.  
The men's clothing is not bad, if suffering from a tendency towards that 
"rough, unfinished" look for the senatorial tunics and togas, for 
instance.   The battle scenes have not been much to talk about, probably 
because they spent most of their money on actors and scenery rather than 
CGI. The sets are wonderful--a riot of colour.

Susan
(BA in classics and ancient history....)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Returning to h-cost
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Status: RO

Welcome back!
I've seen stuff on leading strings in one of my (very few) books on 18th
century costuming for reenactors, but nothing for earlier time periods,
outside of those embroidered bands in the book on the embroidery of Mary
Stuart.
There was a recent thread concerning children's clothing and patterns--I'm
pretty *sure* it was on this list.  Burda as the manufacturer, maybe? It's
not something I saved, or paid too much attention to, so hopefully someone
can give you more details....
--Sue in Montana

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 10:08 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Returning to h-cost


> Hello all!
>
> I am Rebecca and am returning to H-cost after a "leave of absense" due to
> child-rearing :) I signed off a bit over a year ago for childbirth, and
> figured toddlerhood was a good time to go back to something that might
help
> me keep my sanity (or lose even more of it - whichever feels better at the
> time :)
>
> I do mostly Elizabethan, and am on cast at the Bristol Renn Faire. Being
out
> of the loop for awhile, I'm wondering if any children's patterns have come
> on the market in the past year? Aforementioned toddler will need clothing
> for this season. Also, if anyone has good information on leading
> strings...toddler will be ~20 months when season starts, and we work
around
> an open fire, so I want to be able to have control of him at all times.
> Leading strings seemed to be a good start :)
>
> *******************************************************************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
> Bristol Renaissance Faire


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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: Punches for cloth, was Re: [h-cost] re; Wizard
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2007 20:15:18 -0800
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Status: RO

Just be sure your paillette-maker uses sturdy enough plates if you're  
going to use it on metal. I know folks who have tried to use the  
scrapbooking type of plastic-plate sort of thing, designed for paper,  
on lightweight metal, and the plastic gets mashed flat in about three  
passes.... no fun.

I've mentioned this page before (probably the last time Bjarne  
brought this up, in fact...)
http://claning.home.igc.org/bezants/bezants.htm

I've used metal leather-punching tools with pretty good results.

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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  Hi all,

  I will be working on a new Elizabethan loose gown (16th c.), and I wanted to close them with Turkish knots, aka frogs, like seen in PoF, and in QEWU. I have made modern ones in a class recently, but I want to find period ones as my basis to make for my gown. But I am having problems finding info on them, or how to make period Turkish knots/frogs, and my googling has only gotten a couple of leads.

  QEWU mentions that there were Turkish knots on garments from Turkey in the V&A, but I am not finding anything there, and I am not sure what proper keyword to search for.
   
  And one book I've found notice during my search, I don't know if I can ILL, since my local library sucks greatly at getting the good books, and those in my state are noted as being "reference only". Anyone know much about the book "Costumes, Embroideries and other Textiles" by the Topkapi Saray Museum translated by J. M. Rogers? What is in this book? Is it worth paying $100+ for, just for knots? I am not one normally for Middle-eastern garments.

Has anyone else here made these, or know anyone who has? Anyone here have any suggestions on how to find out more on this? Any hints, links, mailing lists, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
   
  Thank you,
   
  Kimiko Small
   

 
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turkish knots aka frogs? An interesting page for you....
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Here's an interesting websit on Chinese knot tying, this is for a clothing "frog".
  
http://co.middlesex.nj.us/culturalheritage/chineseknotting/button.html
   
  very pretty and decorative.
  Also try searching for "knot tying " in your search feature or the macrame pages for something more in line with the knot you want.
  Best,
  Melody
   
  (snip)
   Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
  Hi all,

I will be working on a new Elizabethan loose gown (16th c.), and I wanted to close them with Turkish knots. But I am having problems finding info on them, or how to make period Turkish knots/frogs, and my googling has only gotten a couple of leads.

 Any hints, links, mailing lists, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Kimiko Small




 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Turkish knots aka frogs?
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button
http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/button_knots.htm

Have you considered chinese knots?
http://www.chineseknotting.org/

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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <Ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: robin hood
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Status: RO

You can get more info on the website: http://www.bbcamerica.com/ 

I can't comment on the story yet. I though the first episode was 
passable in a "Robin Hood meets hip 21st century youth" sort of way.
The 
costumes are the usual mix of attempts at authenticity and modern 
fantasy. I'm not sure about the orange (stretch knit?) dress on the 
website, but Marian was in a lovely cream colored gothic fitted gown in

the first episode. And they had Guy of Gisbourne in a black leather 
trenchcoat...

I'll watch a couple more episodes to see how it goes. :)

Dawn
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
You are a bit more generous than I was feeling :).

Plot was kind of fun but the costumes jumping all over the place were a
big distraction for me.  You know you are in trouble with a show when
the peasants look more authentic than the leads.....  And that
trenchcoat!  Looked like they are going for the Van Helsing look for Sir
Guy.  Sigh.

Catherine




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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Dracula, was robin hood
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I watched a new version of Dracula at a friend's house during the
Christmas holiday. I'm not familiar with the book, but thought this was
fairly dire.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> 05/03/2007 22:30 >>>

Did anyone catch the "new" Dracula, which was just on here (probably
last
year's BBC season). I saw about five minutes and couldn't take it
after
Lucy's new husband left the wedding to perform some kind of
blood-heavy
black mass or something. Everyone usually massacres Dracula in the
same
Freudian way, but this looked like an equally stupid way to massacre
it. I
sure wish someone would just do the real story. Anyway, I didn't get a
chance to notice the costumes.

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turkish knots aka frogs?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Kimiko,
   
  I've been on this hunt for a few months too. One thing I've learned - Chinese knots are not at all the same as period Turkish knots/buttons.  The buttons on the Turkish coats are interesting. They seem to be very close to the basket woven buttons I found on these 2 webpages:
   
  http://www.employees.org/~cathy/buttons.html
  http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_buttons.htm
   
  They pull many of their button construction ideas from viewing the buttons in Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion - 1560-1620."
   
  I'm told, however, that the extant buttons in the V&A do not have a wooden core. So you're guess is as good as mine when it comes to the real construction.
   
  It seems to me the construction of the period Turkish closures are not exactly frogs (like the modern ones).  The buttons are seperate from the braided bands that form the loops.  The construction of the buttons and braids are relatively simple but can be uncomfortable if you have any hand or wrist ailments.
   
  The Topkapi book is an excellent source for Turkish period clothing (I've been saving my pennies to get my hands on a copy).  I wouldn't recommend paying the $100 for it if you have no interest in Turkish textiles.
   
  In the end, I've made the wooden core woven buttons and they look fantastic.  In a pinch I've purchased modern frogs off the internet but they cost a lot of money when you need to run 20 down the front of a coat. (I can send you the link to the website I use to purchase them.)
   
  If you find out more please let me know.
   
  Sheree
   
  Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
  Hi all,

I will be working on a new Elizabethan loose gown (16th c.), and I wanted to close them with Turkish knots, aka frogs, like seen in PoF, and in QEWU. I have made modern ones in a class recently, but I want to find period ones as my basis to make for my gown. But I am having problems finding info on them, or how to make period Turkish knots/frogs, and my googling has only gotten a couple of leads.

QEWU mentions that there were Turkish knots on garments from Turkey in the V&A, but I am not finding anything there, and I am not sure what proper keyword to search for.

And one book I've found notice during my search, I don't know if I can ILL, since my local library sucks greatly at getting the good books, and those in my state are noted as being "reference only". Anyone know much about the book "Costumes, Embroideries and other Textiles" by the Topkapi Saray Museum translated by J. M. Rogers? What is in this book? Is it worth paying $100+ for, just for knots? I am not one normally for Middle-eastern garments.

Has anyone else here made these, or know anyone who has? Anyone here have any suggestions on how to find out more on this? Any hints, links, mailing lists, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Kimiko Small



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Subject: [h-cost] Sarnen Robe?  Chris Lanning - was Punches for cloth.
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Chris, what is the Sarnen Robe on your site?

Thanks,

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: Punches for cloth, was Re: [h-cost] re; Wizard


> Just be sure your paillette-maker uses sturdy enough plates if you're  
> going to use it on metal. I know folks who have tried to use the  
> scrapbooking type of plastic-plate sort of thing, designed for paper,  
> on lightweight metal, and the plastic gets mashed flat in about three  
> passes.... no fun.
> 
> I've mentioned this page before (probably the last time Bjarne  
> brought this up, in fact...)
> http://claning.home.igc.org/bezants/bezants.htm
> 
> I've used metal leather-punching tools with pretty good results.
> 
> ____________________________________________________________
> 
> O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
> +     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turkish knots aka frogs? An interesting page for you....
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 08:19:53 -0700
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Status: RO

Threads magazine a long time ago had an article on making different 
styles of knots.  I don't know if you can find it on their website 
anymore or not.

Sylrog

On Mar 5, 2007, at 11:57 PM, Melody Watts wrote:

> Here's an interesting websit on Chinese knot tying, this is for a 
> clothing "frog".
>
> http://co.middlesex.nj.us/culturalheritage/chineseknotting/button.html
>
>   very pretty and decorative.
>   Also try searching for "knot tying " in your search feature or the 
> macrame pages for something more in line with the knot you want.
>   Best,
>   Melody
>
>   (snip)
>    Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>   Hi all,
>
> I will be working on a new Elizabethan loose gown (16th c.), and I 
> wanted to close them with Turkish knots. But I am having problems 
> finding info on them, or how to make period Turkish knots/frogs, and 
> my googling has only gotten a couple of leads.
>
>  Any hints, links, mailing lists, or suggestions would be greatly 
> appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Kimiko Small
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a PS3 game guru.
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In a message dated 3/6/2007 9:04:47 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
Ckinsey@kumc.edu writes:

> You know you are in trouble with a show when
> the peasants look more authentic than the leads.....  

***************

This happens all the time in film and TV.

I saw HBO's "Rome" for the 1st time last night. [I don't get HBO and don't 
watch too much TV.] What a soap opera! And the costumes! Yikes! There were 2 
weddings in this episode, and not even a swatch of coral red...the color brides 
wore. Even Fellini gets that right in "Satyracon"! Not to mentions the 
sweetheart necklines and off the shoulder gowns...yikes! The lead women are in some 
netherworld...
But the people in the street looked great!

It's like those old westerns where Olivia de Havilland is crossing the 
plains...in a velvet designer concoction with a huge fur hat, but everyone else in 
the covered wagon train looks very convincingly 1840's middle/lower class.

It's because extras are dressed by assistants from a pulled stock. They seem 
a lot more eager to get it right rather than "express themselves" through 
design innovations. There's also usually a billboard of research pictures for 
these dressers to consult when pulling for an extra. And then the on-set people 
will pull out the best looking extras and stick them in front.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Dracula, was robin hood
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In a message dated 3/6/2007 9:15:26 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:

> Everyone usually massacres Dracula in the
> same
> Freudian way, but this looked like an equally stupid way to massacre
> it. I
> sure wish someone would just do the real story. Anyway, I didn't get a
> chance to notice the costumes.
> 
> 

******************

Could it be as bad as "Bram Stoker's Dracula"...that monstrosity with Winona 
and Keanu? Like the New Yorker review said: "They can't blame this mess on 
Bram Stoker!"


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Dracula, was robin hood
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> Could it be as bad as "Bram Stoker's Dracula"...that monstrosity with
> Winona 
> and Keanu? Like the New Yorker review said: "They can't blame this mess
> on 
> Bram Stoker!"

I read a theory at one point that the more of the original author's name is
included in the movie title, the more the movies strays from the original work.
I had another example, but I can't remember it now...

Emma

http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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In a message dated 3/5/2007 6:10:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> though I still wish BBC would 
> discover more 19th-century authors instead of perennially refilming Jane 
> Austen, Dickens, and a handful of others.

******************

I just caught "North & South". YUMMY!


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
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In a message dated 3/5/2007 8:57:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
nicolaa@rogers.com writes:

> the bride in the correct 
> colour. 

NO they didn't! There was not anything near the bright coral red they should 
have been wearing! What were you watching?..'cause it wasn't the same thing I 
saw.

Now how about the off the shoulder gown and the sweetheart neckline?

Like I said before...the costumes in Fellini's "Satyracon" are more accurate!



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In a message dated 3/5/2007 8:57:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
nicolaa@rogers.com writes:

> I've not seen anything so glaringly bad as what we saw in 
> Gladiator. 

**************

At least you can trace the "Gladiator" stuff to a source: the paintings of 
Alma-Tadema.They're just making stuff up in "Rome".



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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Dracula, was robin hood
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 10:06:51 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Or are you referring to the recent production on PBS?  I saw it and 
thought it wasn't great.

Sylrog


Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com

On Mar 6, 2007, at 9:56 AM, 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:

>
>> Could it be as bad as "Bram Stoker's Dracula"...that monstrosity with
>> Winona
>> and Keanu? Like the New Yorker review said: "They can't blame this 
>> mess
>> on
>> Bram Stoker!"
>
> I read a theory at one point that the more of the original author's 
> name is
> included in the movie title, the more the movies strays from the 
> original work.
> I had another example, but I can't remember it now...
>
> Emma
>
> http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
> http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sarnen Robe?  Chris Lanning - was Punches for cloth.
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Saragrace wrote:
>Chris, what is the Sarnen Robe on your site?
>
>> I've mentioned this page before (probably the last time Bjarne  
>> brought this up, in fact...)
>> http://claning.home.igc.org/bezants/bezants.htm
>> 
>> I've used metal leather-punching tools with pretty good results.

It's a robe belonging to a famous statue of the Infant Jesus, which is located in Sarnen, near Lake Lucerne in Switzerland. Legend says that the deep red silk of the garment was from a dress given by Queen Agnes of Hungary in 1318. Many religious statues have been given richly decorated ???robes??? like these in which they may be clothed for special festivals

There's a photo here:
http://www.bayrose.org/wkneedle/Articles/stars_spangles_studs.html

And also some more details of making one's own bezants with leather stamping tools:
http://www.bayrose.org/wkneedle/Articles/make_bezants.html

(tooting my own horn, herem, with apologies...)

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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At 10:02 AM -0700 3/6/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>  > Just be sure your paillette-maker uses sturdy enough plates if you're 
>>  going to use it on metal. I know folks who have tried to use the 
>>  scrapbooking type of plastic-plate sort of thing, designed for paper, 
>>  on lightweight metal, and the plastic gets mashed flat in about three 
>>  passes.... no fun.
>>

Not this one--my friends been going crazy doing the metal stuff--and 
so far so good (gosh hope I didn't just jinx her!)
Ta
Carol--not clear on all the techi details (am resisting getting into 
another new craft this Spring...)

>  > I've mentioned this page before (probably the last time Bjarne 
>>  brought this up, in fact...)
>>  http://claning.home.igc.org/bezants/bezants.htm
>>
>>  I've used metal leather-punching tools with pretty good results.
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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I'm with Fran, I try not to expect much from films WRT costume authenticity. 
I loved Knight's Tale for the fun they had with it.  I like the attempt to 
bring period stuff back into film making.  I think it is interesting to 
watch the resurgence of it. My husband who is a Sci Fi fan wouldn't watch 
anything "period" until I pointed out to him that in many cases the two were 
almost indistinguishable.  Now he'll try just about anything once.  He is 
the one who brought "Rome" to my attention and is as hooked on it as I am.

As to Dracula, I watched most of it on a whim, when nothing else was on 
while sewing.  I thought it was pretty cheesy, and then noticed that (If we 
are talking about the same one), Van Helsing is played by Anthony Hopkins. 
Curious about that I looked up who made the film.  Francis Ford Coppola - he 
is supposed to be good right?  (Kenau Reeves plays Jonathon - I want to like 
him, he is so cute, but he bores me to death)  As I recall the costumes were 
pretty (Mina's), but in some cases just totally wrong.  Lucy reminded me of 
a prom queen.

Well, hmm, now I am not sure if we are talking about the same film - I just 
looked up and saw that it was made in 1992.....

Sorry to be so chatty....

Sg




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 3:30 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: robin hood


>
> Is it on DVD? I don't have cable. I'll watch if the story is good, unless
> the costumes are awful.
>
> Did anyone catch the "new" Dracula, which was just on here (probably last
> year's BBC season). I saw about five minutes and couldn't take it after
> Lucy's new husband left the wedding to perform some kind of blood-heavy
> black mass or something. Everyone usually massacres Dracula in the same
> Freudian way, but this looked like an equally stupid way to massacre it. I
> sure wish someone would just do the real story. Anyway, I didn't get a
> chance to notice the costumes.
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Status: RO

Saragrace wrote:

> As to Dracula, I watched most of it on a whim, when nothing else was on
> while sewing.  I thought it was pretty cheesy, and then noticed that (If we
> are talking about the same one), Van Helsing is played by Anthony Hopkins.
> Curious about that I looked up who made the film.  Francis Ford Coppola - he
> is supposed to be good right?  (Kenau Reeves plays Jonathon - I want to like
> him, he is so cute, but he bores me to death)  As I recall the costumes were
> pretty (Mina's), but in some cases just totally wrong.  Lucy reminded me of
> a prom queen.

Saragrace, I think you're talking about the feature film "Bram Stoker's
Dracula," which was horrible. You know a movie is bad when they put the
author's name in front of it. It's a dead giveaway that the movie will have
nothing to do with the book! (A couple of years ago the guys who made
"Airplane!" made a film called "Mafia." It was originally supposed to be
called "Jane Austin's: Mafia" but they dropped the Jane Austin part because
they thought people would be confused. I thought it was hilarious.) Couldn't
get through that Dracula all, but the costumes got a lot of raves.

The Dracula I'm talking about is a BBC series. Since Freud, everyone has
interpreted Dracula as all about sex, and the character of Lucy is always a
sex-crazed slut. The book is not like that at all. This series seems to have
gone off on a different but equally stupid direction.

Gail Finke


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Status: RO

Wonderful!=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 3:59 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.


Here are a few pics from the Phoenix Art Museum talk I did last week.  =
Still

tweaking the CSS style sheets so bear with me!  I'll be updating some of =
the

details for the diary now that I have time .....


http://saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/Actuals/Event/index.htm


Sg
=20

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Hi everyone,=0A=0AI'm looking for pictures of Spanish underwear - particula=
rly chemise necklines and stockings, mid to late 1500's. Extant garments wo=
uld be a big bonus!=0AI am also looking for surviving stockings or other le=
g coverings, same period, male or female, I don't care where they are from,=
 particularly those that have been pieced at the legs. (i.e. selvedge edges=
 butted together that run on the bias) =0ASpain isn't quite my area of expe=
rtise, so I am a little lost as to where to begin finding images.=0A=0AThan=
ks!=0A=0AKathy=0A =0AErmine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the=
 shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldle=
ss) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.=0A=0AIt=92s never =
too late to be who you might have been.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais i=
mchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidel=
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_=0ADo You Yahoo!?=0ATired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protecti=
on around =0Ahttp://mail.yahoo.com 
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Greetings--

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/5/2007 8:57:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> nicolaa@rogers.com writes:
>
>   
>> the bride in the correct 
>> colour. 
>>     
>
> NO they didn't! There was not anything near the bright coral red they should 
> have been wearing! What were you watching?..'cause it wasn't the same thing I 
> saw.
>   
What I saw was veiling and clothes in various shades of flame 
orange--which I understood was correct.  I apologize if I got it 
wrong--but it was definitely not white, for instance. Someone was 
clearly trying for the right colour.  And the wording (which was what 
I'm more familiar with) was more or less right.
> Now how about the off the shoulder gown and the sweetheart neckline?
>   
As I said, the women's clothes range in quality from not bad to not so 
good, which is typical for these types of pictures. There are definitely 
dresses which are more "Romanesque" than Roman.  The more accurate 
garments (with the exception of what they have the "madam" wearing) tend 
not to be worn by the stars....

There's quite a lot you could quibble about in this series (as I said 
earlier, there's a lot of glossing over -- for instance, Antony was 
Octavia's third husband, and he had also previously had a couple of 
wives--and a lot of "filling in the blanks") - but there are clearly 
some people doing research and applying it.  Which is better than 
average.  I don't think the costuming, in general, is the strong suit of 
the research they've done, however.

Susan
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Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2007 23:10:26 -0500
From: Susan Carroll-Clark <nicolaa@rogers.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
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Status: RO

Greetings--

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>
> At least you can trace the "Gladiator" stuff to a source: the paintings of 
> Alma-Tadema.They're just making stuff up in "Rome".
>
>   
Well, to quibble with that--that's like using Waterhouse to document 
medieval clothes.  Alma-Tadema is no "better" a source than something 
completely made up.  And I don't recall seeing corset-like garments in 
Alma-Tadema's works.

I stand by my original statement that the costume design is "uneven" 
rather than "bad."   I have seen attempts to get the right look, but 
I've also seen some much more "costume-y" items in the mix.  

I will also freely admit to having my expertise not in Roman clothing, 
but of Roman history and literature--so I've been much more interested 
in whether the characters "come off right" in the series....

Susan


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
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Status: RO

On Tuesday 06 March 2007 11:00 pm, Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
> Greetings--
>
> AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> > In a message dated 3/5/2007 8:57:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> >
> > nicolaa@rogers.com writes:
> >> the bride in the correct
> >> colour.
> >
> > NO they didn't! There was not anything near the bright coral red they
> > should have been wearing! What were you watching?..'cause it wasn't the
> > same thing I saw.
>
> What I saw was veiling and clothes in various shades of flame
> orange--which I understood was correct.  I apologize if I got it
> wrong--but it was definitely not white, for instance. Someone was
> clearly trying for the right colour.  And the wording (which was what
> I'm more familiar with) was more or less right.

I'm not familiar with the HBO series you're discussing (I don't even have a 
cable subscription) but I'm somewhat familiar with the costume issue being 
discussed.  My understanding is that the veil worn by brides in ancient Rome 
was "flame colored," but I was not aware that there was any kind of consensus 
about what color that actually meant.  What is your source for the flammeum 
being "coral red"?  I'm curious.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


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Status: RO

Greetings

Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
>>  
> As I said, the women's clothes range in quality from not bad to not so 
> good, which is typical for these types of pictures. There are 
> definitely dresses which are more "Romanesque" than Roman.  The more 
> accurate garments (with the exception of what they have the "madam" 
> wearing) tend not to be worn by the stars....
I wanted to clarify this statement--the clothing worn by the "madam" is 
probably the worst in the series, which is contrary to the trend for the 
lower-class clothing for women to look better than a lot of that worn by 
the upper classes.

That read like I was praising it for its accuracy!

Susan
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
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Status: RO

Does the colour really matter? It is not a documentary. If we are gonna nit-
pick over the clothes, we have to nitpick over the plaster walls, the forced 
perspectives and the obvious cycloramas.

I am more pleased that a network would take an effort that was not ponces in 
togas and screen it at a decent time, (9:30 or 10:30) last year,

-C.


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Author's name in movie title
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Status: RO

Possibly...."Mary Shelley's Frankenstein"?

Sandy

At 11:02 AM 3/6/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2007 10:56:27 -0600 (CST)
>From: 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Dracula, was robin hood
>
> > Could it be as bad as "Bram Stoker's Dracula"...that monstrosity with
> > Winona  and Keanu? Like the New Yorker review said: "They can't 
> blame this mess
> > on  Bram Stoker!"
>
>I read a theory at one point that the more of the original author's name is
>included in the movie title, the more the movies strays from the 
>original work.
>I had another example, but I can't remember it now...
>
>Emma

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 21:54:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turkish knots aka frogs?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hello Sheree,
   
  Thank you so much for the info you provided.
   
  From another list I was given this link as well.
  http://fingerloop.org/aglet.html 
  At the bottom of the page is some detailed sketches that really help, along with a bit more info than I had before.

  If the buttons were anything like the buttons I learned to make modernly, then I can follow how they would not need a core other than the cording/braid itself. Or perhaps they were cloth covered buttons? I will have to delve some more.
   
  Thanks again, and let me know if you find out anything more. I shall do the same.
   
  Kimiko
   
  
slc_fire <slc_fire@yahoo.com> wrote:
    Kimiko,

I've been on this hunt for a few months too. One thing I've learned - Chinese knots are not at all the same as period Turkish knots/buttons. The buttons on the Turkish coats are interesting. <snip>
  I'm told, however, that the extant buttons in the V&A do not have a wooden core. So you're guess is as good as mine when it comes to the real construction.
<snip>
  If you find out more please let me know.

Sheree


 
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turkish knots aka frogs? An interesting page for you....
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Thanks for the suggestion. I may have that article, as I've collected a number of Threads magazines.
   
  Kimiko

Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
  Threads magazine a long time ago had an article on making different 
styles of knots. I don't know if you can find it on their website 
anymore or not.

Sylrog

 
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turkish knots aka frogs? An interesting page for you....
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Thank you for the suggestin Melody. 
   
  Kimiko
  

Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
  Here's an interesting websit on Chinese knot tying, this is for a clothing "frog".

http://co.middlesex.nj.us/culturalheritage/chineseknotting/button.html

very pretty and decorative.
Also try searching for "knot tying " in your search feature or the macrame pages for something more in line with the knot you want.
Best,
Melody

 
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Turkish knots aka frogs?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you for the suggested sites. And yes, I started looking under chinese knots, but haven't found the connection (yet) to Turkish knots, which look different. I think modern sites give modern info, and perhaps little research has been done to link the two styles, if there is any link.
   
  Kimiko
  

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  button
http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/button_knots.htm

Have you considered chinese knots?
http://www.chineseknotting.org/


 
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Turkish knots aka frogs?
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Sorry I forgot to mention, the first site is not Chinese knots but from a
site talking about Turkish and Polish coats of the late 1500s and 1600s
which I thought it said so on the site.
De

-----Original Message-----
Thank you for the suggested sites. And yes, I started looking under chinese
knots, but haven't found the connection (yet) to Turkish knots, which look
different. I think modern sites give modern info, and perhaps little
research has been done to link the two styles, if there is any link.

  Kimiko


otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  button
http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/button_knots.htm

Have you considered chinese knots?
http://www.chineseknotting.org/



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
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In a message dated 3/6/2007 11:01:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
nicolaa@rogers.com writes:

> but there are clearly 
> some people doing research and applying it.  Which is better than 
> average.  I don't think the costuming, in general, is the strong suit of 
> the research they've done, however.
> 
> 

*****************

Now that I'll agree with.

The annoying thing about the wedding color for me was...there were 2 weddings 
in that episode. In the 1st, there was nothing remotely red or orange or 
pink. In the second wedding, the pinks were so off I just assumed they had no 
connection with any attempt at getting the colors right. None had been made the 
1st time around.

But it's not history.... it's historical fiction. It's a great soap opera!



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In a message dated 3/6/2007 11:12:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
cathy@thyrsus.com writes:

> What is your source for the flammeum 
> being "coral red"?  I'm curious.
> 

Not sure.
I remember it from costume history in school, but it has been also supported 
by various people and sources after that. And I seem to remember an ancient 
wall painting or something depicting a bride in coral red.

Of course that doesn't mean the coral color was always used I suppose...since 
it might be the original source of what I was told in school and later. That 
would be like depending on one instance.

But like I said... there was one wedding in the episode of "Rome" with no red 
what so ever on the bride. And the pale pink on the 2nd bride certainly 
wasn't flame colored.


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Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2007 00:42:40 -0800
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From: "Sharon L. Krossa" <skrossa-ml@medievalscotland.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
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Status: RO

At 4:01 PM +1100 3/7/07, stilskin@netspace.net.au wrote:
>Does the colour really matter? It is not a documentary.

But it _is_ claiming to be set in historical Rome -- to the best of 
my knowledge it is not marketed as either science fiction or fantasy. 
Criticizing how well they portray that claimed setting is as 
legitimate as criticizing any other aspect of the production. Getting 
the history -- including the costuming -- discernibly wrong is no 
different than, say, having boulders that are discernibly made of 
foam rather than rock, or acting that it wooden; it may or may not 
significantly affect the ability of viewers to suspend disbelief 
and/or enjoy the film, but either way it is fair game for comment 
(that is, criticism).

Why so many people think that _historical_ movies/programs should be 
immune from any criticism of such a major component of their content 
is a mystery to me...

>If we are gonna nit-
>pick over the clothes, we have to nitpick over the plaster walls, the forced
>perspectives and the obvious cycloramas.

This is H-Costume, naturally it is the clothing that attracts the 
most attention. On a mailing list dedicated to other aspects of 
history other aspects of the series will attract more attention. On a 
mailing list dedicated to physics, physics-defying aspects will 
attract the most attention. And so on.

Sharon
-- 
Sharon Krossa, PhD  -  skrossa-ml@MedievalScotland.org
Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language & more:
    Medieval Scotland - http://www.MedievalScotland.org/
     Shopping Online? Help support! - http://MedievalScotland.org/patron/
The most complete index of reliable web articles about pre-1600 names:
    The Medieval Names Archive - http://www.s-gabriel.org/names/
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.
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Status: RO

Brilliant! I love the detail in the sleeves.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com> 07/03/2007 01:16 >>>
Wonderful! 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 3:59 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.


Here are a few pics from the Phoenix Art Museum talk I did last week. 
Still

tweaking the CSS style sheets so bear with me!  I'll be updating some
of the

details for the diary now that I have time .....


http://saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/Actuals/Event/index.htm 


Sg
 

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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Status: RO

	Gorgeous gown and details. I wondering, however, about the bodice
front and the bumroll. I can accept that a bumroll may have been that wide,
but I'm curious about the bodice front, in that it is my understanding,
perhaps mistakenly, the front would have been heavily boned, perhaps even
with busk, in order for it to lay flat down the torso, with the bumroll,
tapering toward the front to allow for the bodice to lay correctly.

	Any thoughts?

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Launching April 1:
Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
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Status: RO

Is this the one that is subtitled "Sex, Death etc" or something?
I watched one episode and no more, although they did the
usual thing here and shoved it to a later time slot/took it off
after it didn't immediately generate massive ratings. I thought
that was quite surprising given the amount of skin on show.

I didn't expect much out of the costumes and was pleasantly
unsurprised (the mucky looking togas were particularly jarring),
but it was the other little details that irritated me (why shouldn't
we nitpick, it's so much fun....) enough to switch it off.

Claire

Message: 8
Date: Wed,  7 Mar 2007 16:01:13 +1100
From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: HBO Rome series - anyone else watching?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <1173243673.45ee4719ee7e0@webmail.netspace.net.au>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Does the colour really matter? It is not a documentary. If we are gonna nit-
pick over the clothes, we have to nitpick over the plaster walls, the forced
perspectives and the obvious cycloramas.

I am more pleased that a network would take an effort that was not ponces in
togas and screen it at a decent time, (9:30 or 10:30) last year,

-C.


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Status: RO

Could you send links to the other part(s) of that site that talk about 
Polish and Turkish coats?  The page below says nothing about them and 
has no links to other pages.

Thanks!
Melanie

otsisto wrote:
> Sorry I forgot to mention, the first site is not Chinese knots but from a
> site talking about Turkish and Polish coats of the late 1500s and 1600s
> which I thought it said so on the site.
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Thank you for the suggested sites. And yes, I started looking under chinese
> knots, but haven't found the connection (yet) to Turkish knots, which look
> different. I think modern sites give modern info, and perhaps little
> research has been done to link the two styles, if there is any link.
> 
>   Kimiko
> 
> 
> otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
>   button
> http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/button_knots.htm
> 
> Have you considered chinese knots?
> http://www.chineseknotting.org/
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Be a PS3 game guru.
> Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.
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Status: RO

I think I've seen stomachers like that from the early 17th century, that
curve out over the skirts. I do 1630-40s and make my stomachers
straight, to wear with a tapered bumroll as you describe.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca> 07/03/2007 10:20 >>>
	Gorgeous gown and details. I wondering, however, about the
bodice
front and the bumroll. I can accept that a bumroll may have been that
wide,
but I'm curious about the bodice front, in that it is my
understanding,
perhaps mistakenly, the front would have been heavily boned, perhaps
even
with busk, in order for it to lay flat down the torso, with the
bumroll,
tapering toward the front to allow for the bodice to lay correctly.

	Any thoughts?

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies;
fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Launching April 1:
Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org 


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Status: RO

Surviving cut-and-sewn hose from the 16th century:
a pair of white linen hose with embroidered tops and no feet (Janet 
Arnold, Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, p. 207. These belong to the 
Metropolitan Museum of Art.)

a pair of yellow men's hose made in the later 16th century as part of a 
costume meant to look like it was from the early 16th century. (Mechtild 
Flury-Lemberg, Textile Conservation and Research, trans. Pamela 
Liebundgut. Bern: Abegg-Stiftung, 1988, pp. 222-231. These belong to the 
Berne Historical Museum.)

pieces from the Museum of London illustrated (with reconstruction) in 
Elisabeth Crowfoot, et al, Textiles and Clothing c. 1150-c. 1450, pp. 
188-189.  Despite the date range in the title, these are from the 16th 
c., included as a comparison with the 14th-c. finds.

pieces from the Mary Rose illustrated (with reconstruction) in Julie 
Gardiner, Before the Mast:  Life and Death Aboard the Mary Rose, pp. 57-58.

Melanie Schuessler


Kathy Page wrote:

 > I am also looking for surviving
 > stockings or other leg coverings, same period, male or female, I
 > don't care where they are from, particularly those that have been
 > pieced at the legs. (i.e. selvedge edges butted together that run on
 > the bias) Spain isn't quite my area of expertise, so I am a little
 > lost as to where to begin finding images. Thanks! Kathy


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish underwear
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Status: RO

At 14:04 07/03/2007, you wrote:
>Surviving cut-and-sewn hose from the 16th century:
>a pair of white linen hose with embroidered tops and no feet (Janet 
>Arnold, Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, p. 207. These belong to 
>the Metropolitan Museum of Art.)
>
>a pair of yellow men's hose made in the later 16th century as part 
>of a costume meant to look like it was from the early 16th century. 
>(Mechtild Flury-Lemberg, Textile Conservation and Research, trans. 
>Pamela Liebundgut. Bern: Abegg-Stiftung, 1988, pp. 222-231. These 
>belong to the Berne Historical Museum.)
>
>pieces from the Museum of London illustrated (with reconstruction) 
>in Elisabeth Crowfoot, et al, Textiles and Clothing c. 1150-c. 1450, 
>pp. 188-189.  Despite the date range in the title, these are from 
>the 16th c., included as a comparison with the 14th-c. finds.
>
>pieces from the Mary Rose illustrated (with reconstruction) in Julie 
>Gardiner, Before the Mast:  Life and Death Aboard the Mary Rose, pp. 57-58.
>
>Melanie Schuessler

Museum of London has a stocking - 16th century - on display in the 
Medieval Gallery.

Suzi 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Turkish knots aka frogs?
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Status: RO

I had googled it and I can't remember what I googled to find the site. I'll
try later when I have more time. I was tired when I found the main site and
assumed the button site had a home key.
I did find this site on Ottoman
http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/OttomanPatterns.htm
http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Costume/ofurcollarS.JPG

De

-----Original Message-----
Could you send links to the other part(s) of that site that talk about
Polish and Turkish coats?  The page below says nothing about them and
has no links to other pages.

Thanks!
Melanie

otsisto wrote:
> Sorry I forgot to mention, the first site is not Chinese knots but from a
> site talking about Turkish and Polish coats of the late 1500s and 1600s
> which I thought it said so on the site.
> De


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turkish knots aka frogs?
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2007 08:36:31 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

What do the Turkish knots look like?

On Mar 6, 2007, at 11:11 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:

> Thank you for the suggested sites. And yes, I started looking under 
> chinese knots, but haven't found the connection (yet) to Turkish 
> knots, which look different. I think modern sites give modern info, 
> and perhaps little research has been done to link the two styles, if 
> there is any link.
>
>   Kimiko
>
>
> otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
>   button
> http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/button_knots.htm
>
> Have you considered chinese knots?
> http://www.chineseknotting.org/
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a PS3 game guru.
> Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! 
> Games.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.
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Status: RO

Thank you for your kind words.

If you look at the picture, I think you'll see that it does not lay flat.
http://saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG

The farthingale should have been tilted more to the front.  I was in a hurry
to get back to start the auditorium and didn't notice it when I was taking
the pics.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 3:20 AM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.


> Gorgeous gown and details. I wondering, however, about the bodice
> front and the bumroll. I can accept that a bumroll may have been that
> wide,
> but I'm curious about the bodice front, in that it is my understanding,
> perhaps mistakenly, the front would have been heavily boned, perhaps even
> with busk, in order for it to lay flat down the torso, with the bumroll,
> tapering toward the front to allow for the bodice to lay correctly.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
> original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Launching April 1:
> Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
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Status: RO

	Oooo thanks for the image. Fascinating that. Almost makes one wonder
if this wasn't a maternity outfit. Very odd. Haven't ever seen another
example like that, or have I been missing the boat here? :-) Do you =
know? Is
this an unusual example, or quite the norm?

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Launching April 1:
Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Status: RO

Melanie and Suzi,=0A=0AThanks for those references! I knew I wasn't nuts. I=
t even recalled where I had seen pieced-calf stockings before - I think we =
are talking about the same pair, yellow Chinese damask silk hose, but mine =
are listed as being Royal Danish Collections, Rosenborg Castle. =0A=0AIt's =
the Met stockings I am comparing to - I have plenty on those. ;-)=0A=0AI ha=
d hit a mental block recently, and just couldn't recall where exactly I had=
 seen pieced-calf stockings, just knew that I had. The only one I could com=
e up with was Bocksten hose, but they are not contemporary enough to really=
 be a fair comparison. My biggest sticking point is to make certain the cut=
 was on both stockings, not just one. I'm trying to prove it was intentiona=
lly made this way, not salvaged from a sleeve from a previous garment. I'm =
still trying to wrap my head around the logistics of that.=0A=0AThankyoutha=
nkyouthankyou!=0A=0ANow, off to find support on the collar weirdness of the=
se shirts.... =0A=0AKathy=0A=0A =0AErmine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules =
charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved v=
ert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.=0A=
=0AIt=92s never too late to be who you might have been.=0A-George Eliot=0AT=
osach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http=
://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131=0A=0A_______________________________________=
___________=0ADo You Yahoo!?=0ATired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spa=
m protection around =0Ahttp://mail.yahoo.com 
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] interesting museum replica accessories
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Status: RO

Thought you should know...
I was looking for fine jewelry of a Tudor fashion.  Found this and got
distracted.  Admittedly, I clicked on the link mostly because I'm a
native Virginian and it's almost the 400th anniversary of the founding
of the colony. The Jamestown historic preservation society, APVA, has
reproduced one of the items found on site.  I have to say, it's pretty
novel in the museum replica world.
Sterling silver ear picker re-purposed as a pin, because you never
know when you might need one, I guess.

http://www.apva.org/store/item_view.php?id=10&p1=6

Form the website:

 Sterling Silver Ear Picker Pin
A status symbol and hygienic tool, this ear picker/tooth cleaner was
found at the James Fort site by APVA Preservation Virginia
archaeologists. The 17th-century English knew about plaque, which they
called scale or surf, and were encouraged by doctors to scrape their
teeth frequently. They also knew that a buildup of earwax could cause
deafness. As was the fashion for many of these tools, our ear picker
is double-ended, combining the function of an ear scoop with that of a
nail/tooth cleaner. Ear pickers were used by all levels of society in
medieval and post-medieval England, but ours, being silver, probably
belonged to a gentleman. Like the original, our reproduction is
sterling silver. Comes in a burgundy velvet gift box.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

Kathy Page wrote:
 >
 > It even recalled where I had seen pieced-calf stockings before - I
 > think we are talking about the same pair, yellow Chinese damask silk
 > hose, but mine are listed as being Royal Danish Collections,
 > Rosenborg Castle.

I don't know that those are the same pair as the ones in Textile 
Conservation--do you have a link or a reference for them?

Thanks!
Melanie

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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 09:56:22 -0400
From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: phoenix art museum pix
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Status: RO

on saragrace wrote:

> Here are a few pics from the Phoenix Art Museum talk I did last week.  Still
> 
> tweaking the CSS style sheets so bear with me!  I'll be updating some of the
> 
> details for the diary now that I have time .....
> 
> 
> http://saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/Actuals/Event/index.htm
> 

Saragrace, I just had a minute to look at your wonderful pictures. Who is
the little girl who is in the corner of the first one? I hope you had a
great audience, it looks like a fabulous talk.

Here is my question. The gown looks just right to me -- correct fit, shape,
silhouette, etc. But it sure looks uncomfortable! I know that most people
today think almost anything historic looks uncomfortable, but I don't. I've
worn a lot of historic styles, or approximations thereof, and have found
almost all of them to be perfectly comfortable (and more comfortable than
badly fitting contemporary clothes). But this just looks uncomfortable for
sitting, standing, walking, anything.

How do those of you on the list who wear this style find it?

Gail Finke


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Status: RO

Very astute observation.  It was uncomfortable - I agree with you, in the 
past nothing I've made has been uncomfortable, but this was, and I 
attributed it to the way I cut the bodice.  The corset wasn't uncomfortable 
if worn in the "normal push up mode", but Heather, the model, said it was 
uncomfortable because she had to push her breasts down instead of up.  We 
did that because other wise the top of the bodice looked wrong. I should 
qualify this, she said it wasn't uncomfortable, but that she wouldn't be 
able to exert herself in much of anyway.

Also, she said it was tough to find out what to do with her arms.  On the 
Queen Elizabeth gown (in the background), at least she could allow her arms 
to hang down in front of her because the farthingale was flat in front. 
Here she could not, and it wasn't comfortable for her to bend her arm and 
rest it on the farthingale either.  My biggest cutting mistake from this 
perspective was the way the sleeves set into the bodice.  No matter what I 
did, they just didn't really look right, and she really couldn't move her 
arms up and down much.  The overgown sleeves were hooked in.  Having those 
open underarms was a life saver..otherwise it would have been really hard to 
get the overgown on.

The little girl, is actually a little boy.  Back then, at his age, they all 
dressed pretty much the same which was part of the point of the lecture....I 
don't really have very good pictures of Andrew yet, (I am hoping his mom got 
some good ones.) I will post what I have in the next few days.  Some of the 
research pictures I have on line give you some sense of where the boy's 
outfit came from.

Thank you for your thoughtful observations,

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 6:56 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: phoenix art museum pix


> on saragrace wrote:
>
> > Here are a few pics from the Phoenix Art Museum talk I did last week. 
> > Still
> >
> > tweaking the CSS style sheets so bear with me!  I'll be updating some of 
> > the
> >
> > details for the diary now that I have time .....
> >
> >
> > http://saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/Actuals/Event/index.htm
> >
>
> Saragrace, I just had a minute to look at your wonderful pictures. Who is
> the little girl who is in the corner of the first one? I hope you had a
> great audience, it looks like a fabulous talk.
>
> Here is my question. The gown looks just right to me -- correct fit, 
> shape,
> silhouette, etc. But it sure looks uncomfortable! I know that most people
> today think almost anything historic looks uncomfortable, but I don't. 
> I've
> worn a lot of historic styles, or approximations thereof, and have found
> almost all of them to be perfectly comfortable (and more comfortable than
> badly fitting contemporary clothes). But this just looks uncomfortable for
> sitting, standing, walking, anything.
>
> How do those of you on the list who wear this style find it?
>
> Gail Finke
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000001c760f4$02b23a70$6400a8c0@MAIN>
Subject: Netherlands Clothing early 17th century-preganacy etc....Was:
	[h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.
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Status: RO

Lorina, this is quite the norm for the first part of the 17th century in the 
Netherlands - (which at the time was much larger than it is now.)

The bodice is pretty tight, doubtful of much use for pregnancy.  The outer 
gown on the other hand is a possibility.  I took this pattern from Juan 
Algacea's pattern book - it is a mourning gown.  I justified this because 
the Netherlands were under Spanish control for about 80 years.  This gown 
can be made several different ways, one of which has a false front 
underneath the "sack" of the back.  That would lace up, and of course be 
adjustable.  I saw this gown for the first time at Mathew Gnagy's shop 
(Desert Torch Tailoring) at local event (might have been Estrella Wars).

http://www.deserttorch.com/DTT/DTT_2003%20historical%20female.htm
(the red gown in the middle of the page)

http://www.deserttorch.com/DTT/DTT_2002%20historical%20female.htm
(green and cream in the second row, and cream in the 4th row)

I am thinking about putting my slide show up in a Flash movie for folks to 
see.  I can also post my "talk" - it is pretty rough, since I had most of it 
memorized, but it might give folks a little background.

Thank you for your thoughts,

Sg

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 1:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.


Oooo thanks for the image. Fascinating that. Almost makes one wonder
if this wasn't a maternity outfit. Very odd. Haven't ever seen another
example like that, or have I been missing the boat here? :-) Do you know? Is
this an unusual example, or quite the norm?

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Launching April 1:
Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Status: RO

Mine are photographed in:=0A=0ATextiles Revealed=0AObject lessons in histor=
ic textile and costume research=0AEdited by Mary M. Brooks=0A"How to Read H=
istoric Textiles" by Katia Johansen.=0A"Figure 6a Hose of yellow Chinese si=
lk damask with a white pattern of swimming ducks; this fabric is the same a=
s the undersleeves of the pink coat (31.a.3). Reproduced by permission of t=
he Royal Danish Collections, Rosenborg Castle.=0A...The waist has lost its =
gathering cord so the original waist width is not known. The feet are sewn =
onto the hose. The cut of the hose is similar to prehistoric Danish archaeo=
logical finds (31.L1.d) (figs a.b)."=0AThere is a photograph of them in tot=
o, and a pattern of their construction.=0AThese are listed as the "Polish c=
ostume" of King Fredrik III, inventoried in his wardrobe 1651. There is no =
mention in the inventory how he used or acquired them, as they are signific=
antly different from the rest of his wardrobe. This collection has rarely b=
een put on display and kept in the dark, so are in a remarkable state of pr=
eservation. (paraphrased by me)=0A=0ASame, but different, methinks.=0A=0AKa=
thy=0A =0AErmine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder w=
ith a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a ro=
se Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.=0A=0AIt=92s never too late to=
 be who you might have been.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. -=
 Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/=
131=0A=0A=0AI don't know that those are the same pair as the ones in Textil=
e =0AConservation--do you have a link or a reference for them?=0A=0AThanks!=
=0AMelanie=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____________________________________________=
______=0ADo You Yahoo!?=0ATired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam pro=
tection around =0Ahttp://mail.yahoo.com 
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Oops! I could say that I only caught a glimpse of the little guy, so I
mistook him for a girl, but that would be a fib. My modern bias was
showing...

Gail Finke

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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.
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Status: RO

	Lovely! Thanks for the information! :-)

	And indeed do post the information to your website. Knowledge is
always a good thing.

Regards,
Lorina
(who at the moment has her head firmly entrenched in 1832 for her upcoming
novel)
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Launching April 1:
Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 22:01:44 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Spanish underwear
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Status: RO

At 21:37 08/03/2007, you wrote:
>Mine are photographed in: Textiles Revealed=20
>Object lessons in historic textile and costume=20
>research Edited by Mary M. Brooks "How to Read=20
>Historic Textiles" by Katia Johansen. "Figure 6a=20
>Hose of yellow Chinese silk damask with a white=20
>pattern of swimming ducks; this fabric is the=20
>same as the undersleeves of the pink coat=20
>(31.a.3). Reproduced by permission of the Royal=20
>Danish Collections, Rosenborg Castle. ...The=20
>waist has lost its gathering cord so the=20
>original waist width is not known. The feet are=20
>sewn onto the hose. The cut of the hose is=20
>similar to prehistoric Danish archaeological=20
>finds (31.L1.d) (figs a.b)." There is a=20
>photograph of them in toto, and a pattern of=20
>their construction. These are listed as the=20
>"Polish costume" of King Fredrik III,=20
>inventoried in his wardrobe 1651. There is no=20
>mention in the inventory how he used or acquired=20
>them, as they are significantly different from=20
>the rest of his wardrobe. This collection has=20
>rarely been put on display and kept in the dark,=20
>so are in a remarkable state of preservation.=20
>(paraphrased by me) Same, but different, methinks.

Oh, I have a picture of these I think, in a book=20
on the costumes at Rosenborg Castle, which=20
include the Polish Costume among other things. How interesting.

Suzi

>Kathy Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules=20
>charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed,=20
>seeded, slipped and leaved vert (Fieldless) On a=20
>rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.=20
>It=92s never too late to be who you might have=20
>been. -George Eliot Tosach e=F3lais imchomarc. -=20
>Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.=20
>http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131 I don't know=20
>that those are the same pair as the ones in=20
>Textile Conservation--do you have a link or a=20
>reference for them? Thanks! Melanie=20
>__________________________________________________=20
>Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the

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Subject: [h-cost] Algacea Cloak Hood comparison Help!
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Status: RO

I am making myself a middle class cloak.  I was looking for something with
an interesting hood, so I went to Algacea for some ideas.  I am curious
about several of them.

I've made some mockups and am not exactly sure if
what I have done is correct.  If you compare f.53a Balandran,
f.46a Turkish morning gown, and f.25a Cloak
and cassock of cloth, each has a hood which according to the directions show
one length of it cut on the fold. The only clue I have to where to start is
that on f.25a, it says that parts of the hood will have to be pieced on the
underneath where it won't be visible.  (So I sewed it along that line and
followed that logic with the others.

For those of you who might have more experience with this, could you take a 
look
at what I've done and give me some tips?

http://saragrace.us/images/HoodHelp/HoodHelp.htm

Thanks,

Sg

P.S. Here is one of them made up, but I am not sure I agree with everything 
he has done, and since there is no finished view.... 

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Status: RO

The ones in Textile Conservation are of a yellow wool and are part of a
costume made (and presumably worn) by the grandson of the landsknecht 
Andreas Wild von Wynigen.  It was probably made late in the 16th c. but 
is designed to look like a mercenary's outfit from much earlier.  The 
grandson was a tailor.

Textile Conservation has a number of photos, including closups of the
feet of the hose (which seem to have been reinforced with an extra layer
of cloth at the heels), and a pattern diagram.  The pattern is
similar to the one in the Textiles and Clothing book:  cut on the bias
with a seam down the back and continuing for a short way under the heel,
and a sole with triangular extensions on both sides that fit into
slashes in the upper at about where the anklebone is on each side.

I didn't know of the ones you describe.  I'll have to look them up. 
Thanks for the ref!

Melanie


Kathy Page wrote:
 > Mine are photographed in: Textiles Revealed Object lessons in
 > historic textile and costume research Edited by Mary M. Brooks "How
 > to Read Historic Textiles" by Katia Johansen. "Figure 6a Hose of
 > yellow Chinese silk damask with a white pattern of swimming ducks;
 > this fabric is the same as the undersleeves of the pink coat
 > (31.a.3). Reproduced by permission of the Royal Danish Collections,
 > Rosenborg Castle. ...The waist has lost its gathering cord so the
 > original waist width is not known. The feet are sewn onto the hose.
 > The cut of the hose is similar to prehistoric Danish archaeological
 > finds (31.L1.d) (figs a.b)." There is a photograph of them in toto,
 > and a pattern of their construction. These are listed as the "Polish
 > costume" of King Fredrik III, inventoried in his wardrobe 1651. There
 > is no mention in the inventory how he used or acquired them, as they
 > are significantly different from the rest of his wardrobe. This
 > collection has rarely been put on display and kept in the dark, so
 > are in a remarkable state of preservation. (paraphrased by me) Same,
 > but different, methinks. Kathy
 >
 > Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with
 > a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert (Fieldless) On a
 > rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules. It’s never too late
 > to be who you might have been. -George Eliot Tosach eólais imchomarc.
 > - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.
 > http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131
 >
 > I don't know that those are the same pair as the ones in Textile
 > Conservation--do you have a link or a reference for them? Thanks!
 > Melanie
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!?
 > Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
 > http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________
 >  h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com
 > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 >



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Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 08:03:57 -0500
From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze arrived
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Status: RO

Pretty much the subject line says it all.  My copy arrived yesterday.

Funny story, and no cause for alarm...

I immediately flipped through it and it is stunning.  I sat down and
opened it to the introduction and started to read the Italian... I had
thought it was supposed to be in English but, ah well.  I know enough
to get the gist of things without a dictionary...  so I slogged
through the Preface.  And as I sat there debating the meaning of a
phrase my husband came in and asked what I was reading.  With
excitement I showed him my spiffy new book, and mentioned that my
Italian was just a bit too rusty to really get the exact meaning
without my dictionary... so I went to the shelf to fetch it while
husband perused the book.  He was smirking when I came back, and took
the dictionary as I returned to the couch.  He handed me the book -
open to the first page, and said "I don't think you'll be needing
this" as he took the dictionary.

"Wha????"  And then I saw that the text is indeed in English side by
side with the Italian... just not in the Preface.

D'oh.  But I'm loving it.

Mari
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Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 11:17:04 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze arrived
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Status: RO

Even the captions on the pictures are English and Italian. The only drawback
on the book is no index.
Monica


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Marie Stewart
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 8:04 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze arrived


Pretty much the subject line says it all.  My copy arrived yesterday.

Funny story, and no cause for alarm...

I immediately flipped through it and it is stunning.  I sat down and
opened it to the introduction and started to read the Italian... I had
thought it was supposed to be in English but, ah well.  I know enough
to get the gist of things without a dictionary...  so I slogged
through the Preface.  And as I sat there debating the meaning of a
phrase my husband came in and asked what I was reading.  With
excitement I showed him my spiffy new book, and mentioned that my
Italian was just a bit too rusty to really get the exact meaning
without my dictionary... so I went to the shelf to fetch it while
husband perused the book.  He was smirking when I came back, and took
the dictionary as I returned to the couch.  He handed me the book -
open to the first page, and said "I don't think you'll be needing
this" as he took the dictionary.

"Wha????"  And then I saw that the text is indeed in English side by
side with the Italian... just not in the Preface.

D'oh.  But I'm loving it.

Mari
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Netherlands Clothing early 17th century-preganacy etc....Was:
	[h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 14:44:30 +0000
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Status: RO

These are all *stunning*!  Thank you for sharing..Gia

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com> 

> Lorina, this is quite the norm for the first part of the 17th century in the 
> Netherlands - (which at the time was much larger than it is now.) 
> 
> The bodice is pretty tight, doubtful of much use for pregnancy. The outer 
> gown on the other hand is a possibility. I took this pattern from Juan 
> Algacea's pattern book - it is a mourning gown. I justified this because 
> the Netherlands were under Spanish control for about 80 years. This gown 
> can be made several different ways, one of which has a false front 
> underneath the "sack" of the back. That would lace up, and of course be 
> adjustable. I saw this gown for the first time at Mathew Gnagy's shop 
> (Desert Torch Tailoring) at local event (might have been Estrella Wars). 
> 
> http://www.deserttorch.com/DTT/DTT_2003%20historical%20female.htm 
> (the red gown in the middle of the page) 
> 
> http://www.deserttorch.com/DTT/DTT_2002%20historical%20female.htm 
> (green and cream in the second row, and cream in the 4th row) 
> 
> I am thinking about putting my slide show up in a Flash movie for folks to 
> see. I can also post my "talk" - it is pretty rough, since I had most of it 
> memorized, but it might give folks a little background. 
> 
> Thank you for your thoughts, 
> 
> Sg 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" 
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 1:05 PM 
> Subject: [h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress. 
> 
> 
> Oooo thanks for the image. Fascinating that. Almost makes one wonder 
> if this wasn't a maternity outfit. Very odd. Haven't ever seen another 
> example like that, or have I been missing the boat here? :-) Do you know? Is 
> this an unusual example, or quite the norm? 
> 
> Regards, 
> Lorina 
> Five Rivers Chapmanry 
> purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine, 
> original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Launching April 1: 
> Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens 
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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Subject: [h-cost] A traveling show *partly* about clothing history
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Status: RO

I hadn't realized before... but the First Ladies Exhibit from the the 
Smithsonian's Museum of American History is travelling the country while 
the museum is closed for renovation... which might make it more 
accessible to some of you who live further from DC than I do. There are 
10 dresses travelling with the show (abbrieveated version of the full 
exhibit). I do know that Jackie Kennedy's dress isn't with it, as I've 
been looking at it every 1st Sunday at Air and Space, but other than 
that I'm not sure which are in it and which aren't.

The webpage for the exhibit is at 
http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/exhibition.cfm?key=38&exkey=65


By the way... does anyone know what "peau d’ange" is exactly? So far 
I've gotten that it's a crepe or satin material also known as 
"angelskin". And one reference mentioned polyester (though is it all of 
the time?). Inquiring minds want to know... especially after looking at 
that Kennedy dress so much :-)


-Elisabeth

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Status: RO

> By the way... does anyone know what "peau dÂ’ange" is exactly? So far 
> I've gotten that it's a crepe or satin material also known as 
> "angelskin". And one reference mentioned polyester (though is it all of 
> the time?). Inquiring minds want to know... especially after looking at 
> that Kennedy dress so much :-) 
> 
> 
> -Elisabeth
 

If you do a Google search for "peau d'ange fabric" you'll get some hits.  
Apparently from the few I glanced at, it's a type of lace with a soft 
texture. 

Best, 

 -Helena 


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Status: RO

I'm urgently trying to buy some Elizabethan clothing suitable for my  
three sons to join us for re-enacting.

Are there any businesses left who sell good cotton or linen shirts in  
a child's size 8 (x1) and 12 (x2)? I need them asap.

I'd love to also get some doublets and breeches, but need historical  
accuracy. Machine sewing is okay.

Many thanks in anticipation,

Aylwen
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] peau d'ange
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Status: RO

Oh, my god, of course, "peau d'ange" -- angelskin. One of the =20
decorator remnant stores has a "peau d'ane" which has been driving me =20=

crazy because "ane" is "donkey", and, er, what kind of silk would =20
remind you of donkey skin? But it's probably a typo or a mis-hearing =20
of peau d'ange!
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Mar 9, 2007, at 9:45 PM, Cozit / Liz wrote:

> I hadn't realized before... but the First Ladies Exhibit from the =20
> the Smithsonian's Museum of American History is travelling the =20
> country while the museum is closed for renovation... which might =20
> make it more accessible to some of you who live further from DC =20
> than I do. There are 10 dresses travelling with the show =20
> (abbrieveated version of the full exhibit). I do know that Jackie =20
> Kennedy's dress isn't with it, as I've been looking at it every 1st =20=

> Sunday at Air and Space, but other than that I'm not sure which are =20=

> in it and which aren't.
>
> The webpage for the exhibit is at http://americanhistory.si.edu/=20
> exhibitions/exhibition.cfm?key=3D38&exkey=3D65
>
>
> By the way... does anyone know what "peau d=92ange" is exactly? So =20
> far I've gotten that it's a crepe or satin material also known as =20
> "angelskin". And one reference mentioned polyester (though is it =20
> all of the time?). Inquiring minds want to know... especially after =20=

> looking at that Kennedy dress so much :-)
>
>
> -Elisabeth
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] elegant courtlife in 18th century Denmark
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Status: RO


Whoo, My newspaper invited the readers for a lecture in their house and 
later to a new opened exhibition at Castle Rosenborg. Its about the elegant 
courtlife in 18th century Denmark. They borrowed Queen Sophia Magdalenas 
weddingdress from Sweden. Originally this dress was danish, Princesse Sophia 
Magdalena was the daughter of our Frederik V and Queen Louise from England. 
She was engaged in the age of 4 to the swedish crownprince Gustav - later 
Gustav III. The marriage was 1766.
It is Katia Johansen from Rosenborg who is giving the lecture about the 
extravangance life at Court. Amungst other things, female visitors are 
allowed to try on a copy of the large Pannier worn under this dress. I think 
this is one of the biggest in the world.
You can count me in, and i wil be there with my camera! Other things in the 
exhibition are a a french hunting uniform belonging to Christian VII, a 
painted banyan and such a rare thing as The necktie of Struensee.
Its april 10th.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] golden age
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Status: RO

Hi Saragrace,
Sorry i am late, i looked at your pictures of the Golden Age, and enjoyed it 
very much.
I surfed on the net and found this figurine wich is a little similar in 
style to your dress. This is a figurine you can buy at Rosenborg Castle, 
showing Kirsten Munk and Christian IV about 1620.
http://www.rosenborgslot.dk/_Butik/C4-og-Kirsten-Munkwl.jpg


Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] 1830s Undies =?iso-8859-1?q?=97_faking_it?=
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Status: RO


     Does anyone do 1830s?  The corset is a fairly natural shape, what
with being allowed to have two individual breasts and not a lot of
waist pinching.  And, of course, everything is best with the right
undies.

     I'm looking at something like the Lowell Mill Girl dress or the Full
High Gown.

     For quick & dirty, does the era work ok with a modern bra?

     Can it be worn with a modern bra, and then later with a corset of the
era?  Or would it have to be adjusted?  Is the bodice forgiving
enough?

     And, um, it's not for me, it's for a friend...  yeah, that's it!

     -Carol

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
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Status: RO

I don't know about the size 8, but Lands" End has just put out a linen shirt
that has pin tucks and looks a lot like a Ren chemise. (it has a drawstring
at the bottom, but you could cut it out or just not use it) The smallest
Misses' size would probably work for size 12. Just go to their website:
www.landsend.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 8:53 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question


I'm urgently trying to buy some Elizabethan clothing suitable for my  
three sons to join us for re-enacting.

Are there any businesses left who sell good cotton or linen shirts in  
a child's size 8 (x1) and 12 (x2)? I need them asap.

I'd love to also get some doublets and breeches, but need historical  
accuracy. Machine sewing is okay.

Many thanks in anticipation,

Aylwen
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Subject: [h-cost] Trying to build more accurate AG doll clothes...
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Status: RO

  
    Greetings :)
 
 My six year old daughter is so spoiled. We recently gave her an American Girl doll, Felicity. Felicity is 18" tall, and is the centerpiece of a collection of books, furniture, clothes, etc., all styled after the American Colonial era. The spoiled part became apparent when she looked at the cute little gown that the doll had on and asked me if I could please make her some *real* clothes. So, now I am on a quest to try to build some at least reasonably correctly styled 18th century clothing that would have been appropriate wear in the Colonies. If anyone could please point me in the direction of correct shapes for pattern pieces I would appreciate it. If we were talking Elizabethan or earlier, I could probably swing it, but I am just not familiar with this period at all. Is there an equivalent to Alcega out there for this period?
 
 I am well aware that there are patterns out there made by the big companies, as well as Pleasant Company, and I have some of both. I just want to try for a higher level of accuracy and I feel like I need to at least see how the pieces were properly shaped...not to mention I have no clue of how the things even really go together so far as layering goes.
 
 And of course, the little dear wants proper underpinnings for her dolly...(did children wear corsets in this era?)
 
 :)
 
 ~Kimberley
 
 
 
  
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trying to build more accurate AG doll clothes...
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
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Status: RO

Hi Kimberly,

     The problem is that Felicity has a child's body and the clothing
styles are adult styles.  I guess most of the buyers out there want
the adult styles because they aren't familiar whth what children
would wear.  Felicity's blue gown is made after a blue doll's gown at
Colonial Williamsburg.  They did do their research, but again there
are modifications for what the public wants & for the body shape.

     There are stays for babies.  It's a socio-economoc thing — the upper
class wore stays in childhood to properly shape their torsos &
posture.  The lower classes (depending on how low) wore stays at an
age where they needed them.

     I don't know what patterns are out there; I had only seen prototypes
by someone making AG size clothes.

     Do you have websites for the patterns that are not accurate?  Maybe
people can advise what you need to do to change them from there. 
Otherwise you may need to look at children's style clothes or find an
adult shaped doll to dress.

     -Carol


>     Greetings :)
>
>  My six year old daughter is so spoiled. We recently gave her an American
> Girl doll, Felicity. Felicity is 18" tall, and is the centerpiece of a
> collection of books, furniture, clothes, etc., all styled after the
> American Colonial era. The spoiled part became apparent when she looked
> at the cute little gown that the doll had on and asked me if I could
> please make her some *real* clothes. So, now I am on a quest to try to
> build some at least reasonably correctly styled 18th century clothing
> that would have been appropriate wear in the Colonies. If anyone could
> please point me in the direction of correct shapes for pattern pieces I
> would appreciate it. If we were talking Elizabethan or earlier, I could
> probably swing it, but I am just not familiar with this period at all. Is
> there an equivalent to Alcega out there for this period?
>
>  I am well aware that there are patterns out there made by the big
> companies, as well as Pleasant Company, and I have some of both. I just
> want to try for a higher level of accuracy and I feel like I need to at
> least see how the pieces were properly shaped...not to mention I have no
> clue of how the things even really go together so far as layering goes.
>
>  And of course, the little dear wants proper underpinnings for her
> dolly...(did children wear corsets in this era?)
>
>  :)
>
>  ~Kimberley

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Peau d'Ange
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Status: RO

I haven't seen anything lacelike on the dress, unless it's hidden under 
the beading and metalic embroidery that is under the chiffon they put on 
at the last minute.  That isn't very visible, as the light chiffon 
covers the sparkley bits to cut the light (apparently the reflections 
were causing havoc with the TV cameras in part because of the stong 
lighting they were using at the time).

-Elisabeth

Martha Oser wrote:

>
>  
>
>>By the way... does anyone know what "peau dÂ'ange" is exactly? So far 
>>I've gotten that it's a crepe or satin material also known as 
>>"angelskin". And one reference mentioned polyester (though is it all of 
>>the time?). Inquiring minds want to know... especially after looking at 
>>that Kennedy dress so much :-) 
>>
>>
>>-Elisabeth
>>    
>>
> 
>
>If you do a Google search for "peau d'ange fabric" you'll get some hits.  
>Apparently from the few I glanced at, it's a type of lace with a soft 
>texture. 
>
>Best, 
>
> -Helena 
>
>  
>

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Status: RO

garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:
> I'm urgently trying to buy some Elizabethan clothing suitable for my  
> three sons to join us for re-enacting.
> 
> Are there any businesses left who sell good cotton or linen shirts in  a 
> child's size 8 (x1) and 12 (x2)? I need them asap.

Gohn Bros. (an Amish supplier) sells "colonial" shirts in a more 18th-c. 
style.  They have them for boys--or they did when the catalog that I 
have came out.  Here's the description:

"Ropp Colonial Shirts for Boys:  two button closure, long sleeve, 
regular collar, button cuff, wooden buttons.  6 oz. shirting, oxford 
muslin, 100% cotton. Natural color.  S(6-8), M(10-12), L(14-16)"

As of the 6-year-old catalog that I have, they were $22.98.  Note that 
they're not white.  You can get them with a stand-up collar ("Jefferson 
collar"--costs $1 extra) or without a collar, but it might take longer. 
  They also have them in linen (still not white).

They are extremely helpful on the phone, but they don't take credit 
cards (at least as of the last time I ordered from them).
1-800-595-0031

Good luck!
Melanie Schuessler

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
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Status: RO

At 09:11 PM 3/11/2007, you wrote:
>garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:
>>I'm urgently trying to buy some Elizabethan clothing suitable for my
>>three sons to join us for re-enacting.
>>Are there any businesses left who sell good cotton or linen shirts 
>>in  a child's size 8 (x1) and 12 (x2)? I need them asap.
>
>Gohn Bros. (an Amish supplier) sells "colonial" shirts in a more 
>18th-c. style.  They have them for boys--or they did when the 
>catalog that I have came out.  Here's the description:
>
>"Ropp Colonial Shirts for Boys:  two button closure, long sleeve, 
>regular collar, button cuff, wooden buttons.  6 oz. shirting, oxford 
>muslin, 100% cotton. Natural color.  S(6-8), M(10-12), L(14-16)"
>
>As of the 6-year-old catalog that I have, they were $22.98.  Note 
>that they're not white.  You can get them with a stand-up collar 
>("Jefferson collar"--costs $1 extra) or without a collar, but it 
>might take longer.  They also have them in linen (still not white).
>
>They are extremely helpful on the phone, but they don't take credit 
>cards (at least as of the last time I ordered from them).
>1-800-595-0031
>
>Good luck!
>Melanie Schuessler

You might also try James Townsend (www.jastown.com); they also deal 
in 18th century style clothing.  Here's the link--
http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=196&osCsid=1f43f64a205835752110bc0635fee1a2


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 18:18:10 +1100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Can you provide me with a more direct link? I've been there and can't  
find anything.

Many thanks, Aylwen

On 12/03/2007, at 8:05 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> I don't know about the size 8, but Lands" End has just put out a  
> linen shirt
> that has pin tucks and looks a lot like a Ren chemise. (it has a  
> drawstring
> at the bottom, but you could cut it out or just not use it) The  
> smallest
> Misses' size would probably work for size 12. Just go to their  
> website:
> www.landsend.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 8:53 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
>
>
> I'm urgently trying to buy some Elizabethan clothing suitable for my
> three sons to join us for re-enacting.
>
> Are there any businesses left who sell good cotton or linen shirts in
> a child's size 8 (x1) and 12 (x2)? I need them asap.
>
> I'd love to also get some doublets and breeches, but need historical
> accuracy. Machine sewing is okay.
>
> Many thanks in anticipation,
>
> Aylwen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Trying to build more accurate AG doll clothes...
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 00:31:37 -0700
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Status: RO

The catalogue has underthings, if I recall correctly. The problem with
accurate doll clothes, as I learned from sewing for my own daughter's
American Girl doll, is that, as they are so much smaller, multiple =
layers of
"real" fabrics are too thick. Maybe make thin silk undies, that way, =
they
won't be too bulky. As for authenticity, look at Bjarne's costume pages =
on
this list, then go with thin versions of wool, cotton, etc.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of chindora@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 3:10 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Trying to build more accurate AG doll clothes...


 =20
    Greetings :)
=20
 My six year old daughter is so spoiled. We recently gave her an =
American
Girl doll, Felicity. Felicity is 18" tall, and is the centerpiece of a
collection of books, furniture, clothes, etc., all styled after the =
American
Colonial era. The spoiled part became apparent when she looked at the =
cute
little gown that the doll had on and asked me if I could please make her
some *real* clothes. So, now I am on a quest to try to build some at =
least
reasonably correctly styled 18th century clothing that would have been
appropriate wear in the Colonies. If anyone could please point me in the
direction of correct shapes for pattern pieces I would appreciate it. If =
we
were talking Elizabethan or earlier, I could probably swing it, but I am
just not familiar with this period at all. Is there an equivalent to =
Alcega
out there for this period?
=20
 I am well aware that there are patterns out there made by the big
companies, as well as Pleasant Company, and I have some of both. I just =
want
to try for a higher level of accuracy and I feel like I need to at least =
see
how the pieces were properly shaped...not to mention I have no clue of =
how
the things even really go together so far as layering goes.
=20
 And of course, the little dear wants proper underpinnings for her
dolly...(did children wear corsets in this era?)
=20
 :)
=20
 ~Kimberley
=20
=20
=20
 =20
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free =
from
AOL at AOL.com.
_______________________________________________
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
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Status: RO

www.landsend.com
item # 19257-4412
Linen pintuck tunic
$44.50
Hope this helps. What socio-economic level are you going for? Nobility,
middle class, or peasant?
And where do you live? I'm in CA, near SF and have friends who may have
stuff. I'm assuming you sew, correct? If not, I'd be interested.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 12:18 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question


Can you provide me with a more direct link? I've been there and can't  
find anything.

Many thanks, Aylwen

On 12/03/2007, at 8:05 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> I don't know about the size 8, but Lands" End has just put out a  
> linen shirt
> that has pin tucks and looks a lot like a Ren chemise. (it has a  
> drawstring
> at the bottom, but you could cut it out or just not use it) The  
> smallest
> Misses' size would probably work for size 12. Just go to their  
> website:
> www.landsend.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 8:53 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
>
>
> I'm urgently trying to buy some Elizabethan clothing suitable for my
> three sons to join us for re-enacting.
>
> Are there any businesses left who sell good cotton or linen shirts in
> a child's size 8 (x1) and 12 (x2)? I need them asap.
>
> I'd love to also get some doublets and breeches, but need historical
> accuracy. Machine sewing is okay.
>
> Many thanks in anticipation,
>
> Aylwen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 20:10:40 +1100
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Status: RO

I'm in Australia and we portray English nobility of the 1580s. I do  
sew, but I'm sewing outfits for my husband's band and don't have any  
time left to sew for my children. I would dearly love to have someone  
else help me. We have a performance at Easter and then in late June.  
I just can't find any more time to sew! Luckily my 15yr old daughter  
has nearly finished her gown.

Many thanks

Aylwen


On 12/03/2007, at 6:37 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> www.landsend.com
> item # 19257-4412
> Linen pintuck tunic
> $44.50
> Hope this helps. What socio-economic level are you going for?  
> Nobility,
> middle class, or peasant?
> And where do you live? I'm in CA, near SF and have friends who may  
> have
> stuff. I'm assuming you sew, correct? If not, I'd be interested.
> Sharon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 12:18 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
>
>
> Can you provide me with a more direct link? I've been there and can't
> find anything.
>
> Many thanks, Aylwen
>
> On 12/03/2007, at 8:05 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:
>
>> I don't know about the size 8, but Lands" End has just put out a
>> linen shirt
>> that has pin tucks and looks a lot like a Ren chemise. (it has a
>> drawstring
>> at the bottom, but you could cut it out or just not use it) The
>> smallest
>> Misses' size would probably work for size 12. Just go to their
>> website:
>> www.landsend.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-
>> bounces@indra.com] On
>> Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
>> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 8:53 AM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
>>
>>
>> I'm urgently trying to buy some Elizabethan clothing suitable for my
>> three sons to join us for re-enacting.
>>
>> Are there any businesses left who sell good cotton or linen shirts in
>> a child's size 8 (x1) and 12 (x2)? I need them asap.
>>
>> I'd love to also get some doublets and breeches, but need historical
>> accuracy. Machine sewing is okay.
>>
>> Many thanks in anticipation,
>>
>> Aylwen
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 10:39:20 -0700
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Status: RO

Some of the group I am with have boys. I will contact them and see if they
have any outgrown stuff. Would you be interested?
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 2:11 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question


I'm in Australia and we portray English nobility of the 1580s. I do  
sew, but I'm sewing outfits for my husband's band and don't have any  
time left to sew for my children. I would dearly love to have someone  
else help me. We have a performance at Easter and then in late June.  
I just can't find any more time to sew! Luckily my 15yr old daughter  
has nearly finished her gown.

Many thanks

Aylwen


On 12/03/2007, at 6:37 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> www.landsend.com
> item # 19257-4412
> Linen pintuck tunic
> $44.50
> Hope this helps. What socio-economic level are you going for?  
> Nobility,
> middle class, or peasant?
> And where do you live? I'm in CA, near SF and have friends who may  
> have
> stuff. I'm assuming you sew, correct? If not, I'd be interested.
> Sharon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 12:18 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
>
>
> Can you provide me with a more direct link? I've been there and can't
> find anything.
>
> Many thanks, Aylwen
>
> On 12/03/2007, at 8:05 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:
>
>> I don't know about the size 8, but Lands" End has just put out a
>> linen shirt
>> that has pin tucks and looks a lot like a Ren chemise. (it has a
>> drawstring
>> at the bottom, but you could cut it out or just not use it) The
>> smallest
>> Misses' size would probably work for size 12. Just go to their
>> website:
>> www.landsend.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-
>> bounces@indra.com] On
>> Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
>> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 8:53 AM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
>>
>>
>> I'm urgently trying to buy some Elizabethan clothing suitable for my
>> three sons to join us for re-enacting.
>>
>> Are there any businesses left who sell good cotton or linen shirts in
>> a child's size 8 (x1) and 12 (x2)? I need them asap.
>>
>> I'd love to also get some doublets and breeches, but need historical
>> accuracy. Machine sewing is okay.
>>
>> Many thanks in anticipation,
>>
>> Aylwen
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trying to build more accurate AG doll clothes...
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 14:46:45 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Burnley and Trowbridge carry the Mill Farms child's gown and shift  
pattern and the Kannik's Korner caps and cloak:

http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/search_results.asp? 
txtsearchParamTxt=&txtsearchParamCat=10&txtsearchParamType=ALL&txtsearch 
ParamMan=ALL&txtsearchParamVen=ALL&txtFromSearch=fromSearch

If the direct link is too long, just go to http:// 
www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com and choose Patterns -- Children's in the  
left hand navigation menu.

Under Patterns -- Women they have a good selection of women's  
patterns from JP Ryan, Mill Farm, and Kannik's Korner, including  
stays and jumps, some of which you might be able to modify for your  
daughter, and/or use for ideas for the doll's underthings.

Good luck!
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



On Mar 11, 2007, at 6:10 PM, chindora@aol.com wrote:

>
>     Greetings :)
>
>  My six year old daughter is so spoiled. We recently gave her an  
> American Girl doll, Felicity. Felicity is 18" tall, and is the  
> centerpiece of a collection of books, furniture, clothes, etc., all  
> styled after the American Colonial era. The spoiled part became  
> apparent when she looked at the cute little gown that the doll had  
> on and asked me if I could please make her some *real* clothes. So,  
> now I am on a quest to try to build some at least reasonably  
> correctly styled 18th century clothing that would have been  
> appropriate wear in the Colonies. If anyone could please point me  
> in the direction of correct shapes for pattern pieces I would  
> appreciate it. If we were talking Elizabethan or earlier, I could  
> probably swing it, but I am just not familiar with this period at  
> all. Is there an equivalent to Alcega out there for this period?
>
>  I am well aware that there are patterns out there made by the big  
> companies, as well as Pleasant Company, and I have some of both. I  
> just want to try for a higher level of accuracy and I feel like I  
> need to at least see how the pieces were properly shaped...not to  
> mention I have no clue of how the things even really go together so  
> far as layering goes.
>
>  And of course, the little dear wants proper underpinnings for her  
> dolly...(did children wear corsets in this era?)
>
>  :)
>
>  ~Kimberley
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________ 
> __
> AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's  
> free from AOL at AOL.com.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar 12 15:16:18 2007
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


A friend who is too far away for me to help hopes to borrow a child's
medieval costume for her daughter for a class medieval feast. She can't
sew a lick and is not eager to shell out the big bucks for a purchased
costume for a few hours' wear.

I'm trying to talk her through an easy tabard (thanks, Dawn, for your
webpage) to go over a tunic top, but if there happens to be a generous
sould on the list near Gainesville, Florida with loaner garb for an
11-year-old girl, please contact me offlist.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s Undies =?windows-1252?Q?=97_faking_it?=
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Status: RO

Carol,
    I do an 1840 living history program and have two dresses. One is the 
1830s Full High Gown. It was made to fit over Past Patterns 1830-1840 
Wedding Stay. The stay was made for someone else (but kind of fits), so 
I was making my own and discovered as I was finishing it this winter 
that I am pregnant and cannot wear either stay now. I have a maternity 
stay pattern, but have had no time to make it up, so today I did my 
program in regular underwear for the first time in 6 years. It felt 
weird!!! The shape looks off too. I miss the support even of a poorly 
fitted stay. Without the stay on the dress waist is tighter--partly 
pregnancy, partly being uncorseted--and the skirts heavier. I did not 
make the dress myself, so I cannot comment on the construction or 
adjustability of the pattern. I have heard from others that it is pretty 
easy to put together. However, my dress hooks together without any 
overlap in the back, so without a pelerine or a placket of some sort 
your chemise is sometimes on view! I believe the original dress was worn 
with a pelerine.
    My other undergarments are a mix of period correct and period close. 
As it is a children's program not directly focused on costume, complete 
accuracy is not of the essence, but I have been steadily improving the 
costume over the years. Up until this year I wore: regular underpants (I 
cannot go without these, even if they did!), a chemise, tights (I have 
contemplated stockings, but have not made any yet), a flannel petticoat, 
a quilted petticoat, a bustle (based on one in the Workwoman's Guide) 
and a corded petticoat. I dropped the quilted petticoat this year 
because without the stay my skirts were too heavy. As I do not have a 
pelerine or collar to wear with the dress I actually can't wear the Full 
High Gown with a bra because the straps show with the wide neckline and 
my narrow shoulders.
    I hope this is helpful.
-- 
Anne
Geneva, NY
adelaideatgenevahistoricalsociety.com
(be sure to change "at" to "@")
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Subject: [h-cost] AG Felicity doll
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Status: RO

For research, try  Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion 1 ... c.  
1660-1860" as well as "Four Hundred Years of Fashion" from the V&A  
(1984) and "The Art of Dress: clothes and society 1500-1914" by Jane  
Ashelford (The National Trust, 1996).  Those titles are common enough  
that you may find them in a public library collection and Ashelford  
has a chapter on children's clothes.  There are a couple of nice  
books from the Williamsburg collections, too, but I don't have the  
info at hand right now -- maybe you'll get that from someone else on  
the list.

This isn't my area of interest but my daughter did have a Felicity  
doll back in the early 90's....  Unfortunately, the AG website is  
temporarily unavailable so I wasn't able to see the current patterns  
that they have for sale.  If you find you need the Felicity patterns  
but can't get them--contact me off list.  :-)

Suzanne


> From: chindora@aol.com
> Date: March 11, 2007 5:10:25 PM CDT
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Trying to build more accurate AG doll clothes...
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>
>
>
>     Greetings :)
>
>  My six year old daughter is so spoiled. We recently gave her an  
> American Girl doll, Felicity. Felicity is 18" tall, and is the  
> centerpiece of a collection of books, furniture, clothes, etc., all  
> styled after the American Colonial era. The spoiled part became  
> apparent when she looked at the cute little gown that the doll had  
> on and asked me if I could please make her some *real* clothes. So,  
> now I am on a quest to try to build some at least reasonably  
> correctly styled 18th century clothing that would have been  
> appropriate wear in the Colonies. If anyone could please point me  
> in the direction of correct shapes for pattern pieces I would  
> appreciate it. If we were talking Elizabethan or earlier, I could  
> probably swing it, but I am just not familiar with this period at  
> all. Is there an equivalent to Alcega out there for this period?
>
>  I am well aware that there are patterns out there made by the big  
> companies, as well as Pleasant Company, and I have some of both. I  
> just want to try for a higher level of accuracy and I feel like I  
> need to at least see how the pieces were properly shaped...not to  
> mention I have no clue of how the things even really go together so  
> far as layering goes.
>
>  And of course, the little dear wants proper underpinnings for her  
> dolly...(did children wear corsets in this era?)
>
>  :)
>
>  ~Kimberley

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trying to build more accurate AG doll clothes...
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 3/12/2007 2:48:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
lauren.walker@comcast.net writes:

We  recently gave her an  
> American Girl doll, Felicity. Felicity is  18" tall, and is the  
> centerpiece of a collection of books,  furniture, clothes, etc., all  
> styled after the American  Colonial era. The spoiled part became  
> apparent when she looked  at the cute little gown that the doll had  
> on and asked me if I  could please make her some *real* clothes. So,  
> now I am on a  quest to try to build some at least reasonably  
> correctly styled  18th century clothing that would have been  
> appropriate wear in  the Colonies. 


Sorry I missed the original post on this.  First, Pleasant Company did  
consult with Colonial Williamsburg when making Felicity.  I haven't  examined the 
clothes in detail, but, I know from making other doll clothes that  sometimes 
you have to sacrifice some accuracy when working in such a small  scale.  For 
example, it is extremely difficult to put a sleeve in, in the  round--you 
almost have to put it in flat and then sew up the underarm and side  seams.  
However, this would be easier in an 18th century dress if you put  the sleeve in by 
hand, in the 18th century manner.  (I'm sure the company  had to sacrifice 
more accuracy in order for the clothes to be  mass-produced. ) 
 
That said, Past Crafts Patterns is developing lines of patterns and kits  for 
historic doll clothes.  They call what they are doing "evoking period  style 
for dolls."  These products will be available wholesale only, so look  for 
them at your local museum shop.
 
I work at a mid-Atlantic Federal era house museum.  Many years ago, I  asked 
a representative from Pleasant Company (before Mattel bought them) why  they 
didn't do a doll in our era.  Her response was, oh, they were just  about to do 
so--her name was Josefina and she was from Santa Fe.  Well, not  much help 
for me.  But, the moral of this story is, I took a basic  Simplicity pattern and 
used it as a "sloper" to make my own, more period  appropriately shaped 
pieces.
 
And yes, girls wore "training" stays.  There used to be a whole set of  
underpinnings for each doll.  Of course, you can do just as well, or  better, and a 
LOT cheaper.
 
Ann Wass
 
<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free 
email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at 
http://www.aol.com.
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Medieval costume help for a friend
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 16:57:07 -0600
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Status: RO

Could she possibly check with a local SCA group for loaner garb? If she is
located in an area that is a Barony, they probably have some loaner garb.
She live in the Kingdom of Trimaris
Their site isn't user friendly but it works.
home
http://www.trimaris.org/
map
http://www.trimaris.org/mappe/

De

-----Original Message-----

A friend who is too far away for me to help hopes to borrow a child's
medieval costume for her daughter for a class medieval feast. She can't
sew a lick and is not eager to shell out the big bucks for a purchased
costume for a few hours' wear.

I'm trying to talk her through an easy tabard (thanks, Dawn, for your
webpage) to go over a tunic top, but if there happens to be a generous
sould on the list near Gainesville, Florida with loaner garb for an
11-year-old girl, please contact me offlist.

--Robin


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 16:59:28 -0600
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Status: RO

The Society for Creative Anachronism has some groups in Australia.
It is the Kingdom of Lochac
http://www.sca.org.au/lochac/
Email the Seneschal with your situation and they may be able to find a sewer
or loaner garb. It's worth a shot if other routes don't work.
List of their groups within Lochac
http://www.sca.org.au/lochac/groups/groups.php
This last one will move things a bit quicker in finding a local group and
their Seneschal.

Good luck,
De

-----Original Message-----
I'm in Australia and we portray English nobility of the 1580s. I do
sew, but I'm sewing outfits for my husband's band and don't have any
time left to sew for my children. I would dearly love to have someone
else help me. We have a performance at Easter and then in late June.
I just can't find any more time to sew! Luckily my 15yr old daughter
has nearly finished her gown.

Many thanks

Aylwen


On 12/03/2007, at 6:37 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> www.landsend.com
> item # 19257-4412
> Linen pintuck tunic
> $44.50
> Hope this helps. What socio-economic level are you going for?
> Nobility,
> middle class, or peasant?
> And where do you live? I'm in CA, near SF and have friends who may
> have
> stuff. I'm assuming you sew, correct? If not, I'd be interested.
> Sharon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 12:18 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
>
>
> Can you provide me with a more direct link? I've been there and can't
> find anything.
>
> Many thanks, Aylwen
>
> On 12/03/2007, at 8:05 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:
>
>> I don't know about the size 8, but Lands" End has just put out a
>> linen shirt
>> that has pin tucks and looks a lot like a Ren chemise. (it has a
>> drawstring
>> at the bottom, but you could cut it out or just not use it) The
>> smallest
>> Misses' size would probably work for size 12. Just go to their
>> website:
>> www.landsend.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-
>> bounces@indra.com] On
>> Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
>> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 8:53 AM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
>>
>>
>> I'm urgently trying to buy some Elizabethan clothing suitable for my
>> three sons to join us for re-enacting.
>>
>> Are there any businesses left who sell good cotton or linen shirts in
>> a child's size 8 (x1) and 12 (x2)? I need them asap.
>>
>> I'd love to also get some doublets and breeches, but need historical
>> accuracy. Machine sewing is okay.
>>
>> Many thanks in anticipation,
>>
>> Aylwen
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Sigh.

I've just spent 3 hours on a sleeve for my silk-lined velvet early 18th 
century coat (aka Pirate Coat). All carefully interfaced and sewn inside 
out so it can be turned with all the seams inside....

and the cuffs are on wrong. AAAAGHH!!!

I'm not sure I have enough chocolate ice cream to get through the rest 
of the day. :(



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeves hate me 
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 3/12/2007 6:06:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

and the  cuffs are on wrong. AAAAGHH!!!



Put it down and back away SLOWWWWWLLLY.
 
I had a similar problem once, only it was wrong lining in wrong sleeve, and  
I ripped it out and fixed it, and STILL got it wrong.  So, if you possibly  
can, maybe you need to wait until you are fresh another day.
 
Ann Wass
<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free 
email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at 
http://www.aol.com.
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
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Status: RO

On Monday 12 March 2007 3:18 am, garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:
> Can you provide me with a more direct link? I've been there and can't
> find anything.

Sharon:  Is this what you meant? (Apologies for the long URL):

http://www.landsend.com/pp/LongSleevePintuckLinenEasyShirt-55537_167094_59.html?sid=0711104163367129080&CM_MERCH=SRCH
>
> Many thanks, Ay

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


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	Mon, 12 Mar 2007 17:56:49 PDT
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 17:56:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] peau d'ange
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Peau d'ane--didn't an most unfortunate princess wear a
donkeyskin?

Ann in CT

--- Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:

> Oh, my god, of course, "peau d'ange" -- angelskin.
> One of the  
> decorator remnant stores has a "peau d'ane" which
> has been driving me  
> crazy because "ane" is "donkey", and, er, what kind
> of silk would  
> remind you of donkey skin? But it's probably a typo
> or a mis-hearing  
> of peau d'ange!
> Lauren M. Walker


 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 18:14:25 -0700
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Status: RO

No, it is a tunic, with no collar, just the collar band.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 4:37 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question


On Monday 12 March 2007 3:18 am, garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:
> Can you provide me with a more direct link? I've been there and can't
> find anything.

Sharon:  Is this what you meant? (Apologies for the long URL):

http://www.landsend.com/pp/LongSleevePintuckLinenEasyShirt-55537_167094_5=
9.h
tml?sid=3D0711104163367129080&CM_MERCH=3DSRCH
>
> Many thanks, Ay

--=20
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] peau d'ange
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 18:16:56 -0700
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Status: RO

Coat of a thousand different skins, or (other version) coat of every =
kind of
animal in the kingdom. For a cute retelling of the tale, try the =
children's
book, "Princess Furball"

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Ann Catelli
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] peau d'ange


Peau d'ane--didn't an most unfortunate princess wear a
donkeyskin?

Ann in CT

--- Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:

> Oh, my god, of course, "peau d'ange" -- angelskin.
> One of the =20
> decorator remnant stores has a "peau d'ane" which
> has been driving me =20
> crazy because "ane" is "donkey", and, er, what kind
> of silk would =20
> remind you of donkey skin? But it's probably a typo
> or a mis-hearing =20
> of peau d'ange!
> Lauren M. Walker


=20
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
________
Finding fabulous fares is fun. =20
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight =
and
hotel bargains.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

On Monday 12 March 2007 9:14 pm, Sharon Collier wrote:
> No, it is a tunic, with no collar, just the collar band.

I didn't see anything like that under girls' or women's clothing.  There a 
beaded linen tunic with a keyhole neckline, but it has no tucks and no collar 
band.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeves hate me 
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Status: RO

cocobella chocolates .... down to my last few caramels from there, they are 
in your neck of the woods! :D

They will make it all right!

Chiara

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 6:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Sleeves hate me


> Sigh.
>
> I've just spent 3 hours on a sleeve for my silk-lined velvet early 18th 
> century coat (aka Pirate Coat). All carefully interfaced and sewn inside 
> out so it can be turned with all the seams inside....
>
> and the cuffs are on wrong. AAAAGHH!!!
>
> I'm not sure I have enough chocolate ice cream to get through the rest of 
> the day. :(
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
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Status: RO

http://tinyurl.com/27pk3v


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 2:37 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question


> www.landsend.com
> item # 19257-4412
> Linen pintuck tunic
> $44.50
> Hope this helps. What socio-economic level are you going for? Nobility,
> middle class, or peasant?
> And where do you live? I'm in CA, near SF and have friends who may have
> stuff. I'm assuming you sew, correct? If not, I'd be interested.
> Sharon
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 12:18 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
> 
> 
> Can you provide me with a more direct link? I've been there and can't  
> find anything.
> 
> Many thanks, Aylwen
> 
> On 12/03/2007, at 8:05 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:
> 
>> I don't know about the size 8, but Lands" End has just put out a  
>> linen shirt
>> that has pin tucks and looks a lot like a Ren chemise. (it has a  
>> drawstring
>> at the bottom, but you could cut it out or just not use it) The  
>> smallest
>> Misses' size would probably work for size 12. Just go to their  
>> website:
>> www.landsend.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
>> bounces@indra.com] On
>> Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
>> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 8:53 AM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
>>
>>
>> I'm urgently trying to buy some Elizabethan clothing suitable for my
>> three sons to join us for re-enacting.
>>
>> Are there any businesses left who sell good cotton or linen shirts in
>> a child's size 8 (x1) and 12 (x2)? I need them asap.
>>
>> I'd love to also get some doublets and breeches, but need historical
>> accuracy. Machine sewing is okay.
>>
>> Many thanks in anticipation,
>>
>> Aylwen
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question
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On Monday 12 March 2007 10:55 pm, Chiara Francesca wrote:
> http://tinyurl.com/27pk3v

Thanks.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


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Status: RO

Go to the website. The item number is: 19257-4412. It is called Linen
Pintuck Tunic

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] urgent - children's clothing question


On Monday 12 March 2007 9:14 pm, Sharon Collier wrote:
> No, it is a tunic, with no collar, just the collar band.

I didn't see anything like that under girls' or women's clothing.  There a 
beaded linen tunic with a keyhole neckline, but it has no tucks and no
collar 
band.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Hey Folks...

Mary Jo from Showtime (who's the producer on the Tudor fashion special)
wanted me to forward this on.  You get an early sneak peak and can make =
up
your own minds about the fashions in the series...

-Cat-

ps... it's rated TVMA

+++++++++++++++++++++

OK, People --

I pulled some strings and got permission to give you all the secret VIP
password so that you can watch the first 2 episodes of "The Tudors" =
online
immediately.=20

Meaning right this minute, Even before NEXT week's Yahoo streaming of =
the
episodes. And even before VIP's get notified. Plus, the quality of the =
video
should be better than regular streaming.=20

Unfortunately, online viewing is only available in the U.S., The link =
won't
work for anyone outside the country.=20

Please alert your pals on other Costume and re-enactor and historical
boards. Showime was only going to give out the link to subscribers who =
have
signed up for VIP e-mails, but I persuaded them that "MY" peeps deserve =
a
shot, too!=20

go to

http://www.sho. <http://www.sho.com/vip> com/vip

Type in the password: king

---------------------------------
=20

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <04ed01c76556$3cc33f50$ec17cd18@Maxwell>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FW: [tvfilmcostuming] FREE "TUDORS" ONLINE
	V.I.P.SCREENING
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 07:05:57 -0700
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Status: RO

Pretty nifty, I'll have to watch it later.  Glad to see that the lead is the 
fellow from Gormenghast, right?  Jonathan Rhys Meyers....

Yum.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cat Devereaux" <CatDevereaux@alleycatscratch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 2:59 AM
Subject: [h-cost] FW: [tvfilmcostuming] FREE "TUDORS" ONLINE V.I.P.SCREENING


Hey Folks...

Mary Jo from Showtime (who's the producer on the Tudor fashion special)
wanted me to forward this on.  You get an early sneak peak and can make up
your own minds about the fashions in the series...

-Cat-

ps... it's rated TVMA

+++++++++++++++++++++

OK, People --

I pulled some strings and got permission to give you all the secret VIP
password so that you can watch the first 2 episodes of "The Tudors" online
immediately.

Meaning right this minute, Even before NEXT week's Yahoo streaming of the
episodes. And even before VIP's get notified. Plus, the quality of the video
should be better than regular streaming.

Unfortunately, online viewing is only available in the U.S., The link won't
work for anyone outside the country.

Please alert your pals on other Costume and re-enactor and historical
boards. Showime was only going to give out the link to subscribers who have
signed up for VIP e-mails, but I persuaded them that "MY" peeps deserve a
shot, too!

go to

http://www.sho. <http://www.sho.com/vip> com/vip

Type in the password: king

---------------------------------


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

_______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeves hate me 
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 14:48:39 +0100
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Status: RO

Dear Dawn,
Poor you, hopefully you have got a better feeling of it now.
I also discovered, making the same, adding cuffs to a 1770 coat that because 
i cut the cuffs along the selvedge, it shines differently than the rest of 
the suit.
But i am in a hurry, i wont make it over, until maybe later. I need this 
suit for next months ending weekend.
Must remember not to do the same with the pocket flaps!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 12:06 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Sleeves hate me


> Sigh.
>
> I've just spent 3 hours on a sleeve for my silk-lined velvet early 18th 
> century coat (aka Pirate Coat). All carefully interfaced and sewn inside 
> out so it can be turned with all the seams inside....
>
> and the cuffs are on wrong. AAAAGHH!!!
>
> I'm not sure I have enough chocolate ice cream to get through the rest of 
> the day. :(
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] peau d'ange
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 10:39:00 -0400
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Status: RO

Actually, donkey-skin is also correct. Charles Perrault's 1697 "Tales =20=

of Past Times, with Morals," soon re-titled "Mother Goose Tales," =20
includes "Donkey-Skin."  "All-Kinds-of-Fur" is the German version, =20
collected by the brothers Grimm a century or so later.
    Appropriately enough, "Donkey-Skin" (tr. Jack Zipes, in The =20
Longman Anthology of World Literature, vol E: The Nineteenth Century) =20=

ends with this moral: "Finally, we must take into account that clear =20
water and brown bread are sufficient nourishment for all young women =20
provided that they have beautiful clothes...."
    BUT the peau-d'=E2ne is NOT the beautiful clothes Perrault's =20
referring to, of course!
    Just taught a folk-tale unit in my World Lit course last week!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
--this class was up near you, Ann, I think--at CCSU in New Britain?

On Mar 12, 2007, at 9:16 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> Coat of a thousand different skins, or (other version) coat of =20
> every kind of
> animal in the kingdom. For a cute retelling of the tale, try the =20
> children's
> book, "Princess Furball"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-=20
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Ann Catelli
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:57 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] peau d'ange
>
>
> Peau d'ane--didn't an most unfortunate princess wear a
> donkeyskin?
>
> Ann in CT
>
> --- Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Oh, my god, of course, "peau d'ange" -- angelskin.
>> One of the
>> decorator remnant stores has a "peau d'ane" which
>> has been driving me
>> crazy because "ane" is "donkey", and, er, what kind
>> of silk would
>> remind you of donkey skin? But it's probably a typo
>> or a mis-hearing
>> of peau d'ange!
>> Lauren M. Walker
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________=20=

> ______
> ________
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find =20
> flight and
> hotel bargains.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


> Must remember not to do the same with the pocket flaps!
> 

Oh no! I forgot to cut out the pocket flaps! I hope I have enough fabric 
left over.



Dawn



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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Hi,
   
  does someone know how the tippets used to be attached to the dress? By pins? Or were they sewn-on?
  http://vieuxchamps.com/persona/enlarged/wg/wpic7.php
   
  Thanks,
   
  Zuzana

 
---------------------------------
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] tippets
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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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Status: RO

Current scholarship is that they aren't a separate accessory at all--
they're the vestigial long pointy sleeve (morphed over time into a thin
streamer) as seen hanging from a short-sleeved overdress. That's why
they're so often white (and so often with little black specks)-- that's
the ermine lining of the sleeve.

Astrida

******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

=20

>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com=20
>[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
>Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 12:45 PM
>To: h-costume
>Subject: [h-cost] tippets
>
>Hi,
>  =20
>  does someone know how the tippets used to be attached to the=20
>dress? By pins? Or were they sewn-on?
>  http://vieuxchamps.com/persona/enlarged/wg/wpic7.php
>  =20
>  Thanks,
>  =20
>  Zuzana
>
>=20
>---------------------------------
>Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels in=20
>45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] tippets
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Status: RO


Zuzana asked:

> >  does someone know how the tippets used to be attached to the 
> >dress? By pins? Or were they sewn-on?
> >  http://vieuxchamps.com/persona/enlarged/wg/wpic7.php

Astrida replies:

> Current scholarship is that they aren't a separate accessory at all--
> they're the vestigial long pointy sleeve (morphed over time into a
> thin streamer) as seen hanging from a short-sleeved overdress. That's
> why they're so often white (and so often with little black specks)--
> that's the ermine lining of the sleeve.

Zuzana, Astrida may have given you all the information you need, but if
you want to see the "current scholarship," you'll find it in a paper I
wrote a few years ago: "The Tippet: Accessory after the Fact?" in Medieval
Clothing and Textiles 1, ed. Robin Netherton and Gale Owen-Crocker
(Boydell, 2005). If you have trouble getting your hands on this, contact
me privately.

--Robin


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Status: RO

>Zuzana, Astrida may have given you all the information you=20
>need, but if you want to see the "current scholarship," you'll=20
>find it in a paper I wrote a few years ago: "The Tippet:=20
>Accessory after the Fact?" in Medieval Clothing and Textiles=20
>1, ed. Robin Netherton and Gale Owen-Crocker (Boydell, 2005).=20
>If you have trouble getting your hands on this, contact me privately.
>
>--Robin

I'm at work and don't have my sources to hand... If I recall correctly,
Francoise Piponnier talks about this, too, as do others, but certainly
Robin's paper is the most in-depth and focused out there, not to
mention, it's in English! ; ) The article she references above has some
great images of this in action, as well, from period sources-- a 1395
French manuscript showing Patient Griselda taking off her short-sleeved
formal over-dress and you can see that the long strip sleeves are part
of it.

Astrida

******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

=20
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeves hate me 
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 3/13/2007 11:36:21 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

i cut  the cuffs along the selvedge, it shines differently than the rest of 
the  suit.



******************
 
Oh... you mean you cut them across the grain instead of along the  grain...as 
we say.
 
Well, you'll just have to encrust them with embroidery so no one will ever  
notice. ;-)
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeves hate me
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Status: RO

Hi Dawn,
I think today hated you!

Bjarne.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeves hate me


> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> 
>> Must remember not to do the same with the pocket flaps!
>> 
> 
> Oh no! I forgot to cut out the pocket flaps! I hope I have enough fabric 
> left over.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 12:51:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] peau d'ange
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

If you want to read a new telling of that story, then you should read Robin McKinleys Deerskin, incredibly haunting and beautifully told. It does contain a scene with description of some courtclothes, that was rather nice, just to keep it on the costume content.

Tania

Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com> wrote: Actually, donkey-skin is also correct. Charles Perrault's 1697 "Tales  
of Past Times, with Morals," soon re-titled "Mother Goose Tales,"  
includes "Donkey-Skin."  "All-Kinds-of-Fur" is the German version,  
collected by the brothers Grimm a century or so later.
    Appropriately enough, "Donkey-Skin" (tr. Jack Zipes, in The  
Longman Anthology of World Literature, vol E: The Nineteenth Century)  
ends with this moral: "Finally, we must take into account that clear  
water and brown bread are sufficient nourishment for all young women  
provided that they have beautiful clothes...."
    BUT the peau-d'âne is NOT the beautiful clothes Perrault's  
referring to, of course!
    Just taught a folk-tale unit in my World Lit course last week!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
--this class was up near you, Ann, I think--at CCSU in New Britain?

On Mar 12, 2007, at 9:16 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> Coat of a thousand different skins, or (other version) coat of  
> every kind of
> animal in the kingdom. For a cute retelling of the tale, try the  
> children's
> book, "Princess Furball"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Ann Catelli
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:57 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] peau d'ange
>
>
> Peau d'ane--didn't an most unfortunate princess wear a
> donkeyskin?
>
> Ann in CT
>
> --- Lauren Walker  wrote:
>
>> Oh, my god, of course, "peau d'ange" -- angelskin.
>> One of the
>> decorator remnant stores has a "peau d'ane" which
>> has been driving me
>> crazy because "ane" is "donkey", and, er, what kind
>> of silk would
>> remind you of donkey skin? But it's probably a typo
>> or a mis-hearing
>> of peau d'ange!
>> Lauren M. Walker
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________ 
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Status: RO

Or, DO it with the pocket flaps. That way they'll match and you can tell
everyone it was a design choice!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 6:49 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeves hate me=20


Dear Dawn,
Poor you, hopefully you have got a better feeling of it now.
I also discovered, making the same, adding cuffs to a 1770 coat that =
because

i cut the cuffs along the selvedge, it shines differently than the rest =
of=20
the suit.
But i am in a hurry, i wont make it over, until maybe later. I need this =

suit for next months ending weekend.
Must remember not to do the same with the pocket flaps!

Bjarne
----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 12:06 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Sleeves hate me


> Sigh.
>
> I've just spent 3 hours on a sleeve for my silk-lined velvet early =
18th=20
> century coat (aka Pirate Coat). All carefully interfaced and sewn =
inside=20
> out so it can be turned with all the seams inside....
>
> and the cuffs are on wrong. AAAAGHH!!!
>
> I'm not sure I have enough chocolate ice cream to get through the rest =
of=20
> the day. :(
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>=20


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] peau d'ange
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 16:02:03 -0700
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Status: RO

I agree. Great book. I recommend it often.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Tania Gruning
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 12:52 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] peau d'ange


If you want to read a new telling of that story, then you should read =
Robin
McKinleys Deerskin, incredibly haunting and beautifully told. It does
contain a scene with description of some courtclothes, that was rather =
nice,
just to keep it on the costume content.

Tania

Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com> wrote: Actually,
donkey-skin is also correct. Charles Perrault's 1697 "Tales =20
of Past Times, with Morals," soon re-titled "Mother Goose Tales," =20
includes "Donkey-Skin."  "All-Kinds-of-Fur" is the German version, =20
collected by the brothers Grimm a century or so later.
    Appropriately enough, "Donkey-Skin" (tr. Jack Zipes, in The =20
Longman Anthology of World Literature, vol E: The Nineteenth Century) =20
ends with this moral: "Finally, we must take into account that clear =20
water and brown bread are sufficient nourishment for all young women =20
provided that they have beautiful clothes...."
    BUT the peau-d'=E2ne is NOT the beautiful clothes Perrault's =20
referring to, of course!
    Just taught a folk-tale unit in my World Lit course last week!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
--this class was up near you, Ann, I think--at CCSU in New Britain?

On Mar 12, 2007, at 9:16 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> Coat of a thousand different skins, or (other version) coat of =20
> every kind of
> animal in the kingdom. For a cute retelling of the tale, try the =20
> children's
> book, "Princess Furball"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-=20
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Ann Catelli
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:57 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] peau d'ange
>
>
> Peau d'ane--didn't an most unfortunate princess wear a
> donkeyskin?
>
> Ann in CT
>
> --- Lauren Walker  wrote:
>
>> Oh, my god, of course, "peau d'ange" -- angelskin.
>> One of the
>> decorator remnant stores has a "peau d'ane" which
>> has been driving me
>> crazy because "ane" is "donkey", and, er, what kind
>> of silk would
>> remind you of donkey skin? But it's probably a typo
>> or a mis-hearing
>> of peau d'ange!
>> Lauren M. Walker
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________ =

> ______
> ________
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find =20
> flight and
> hotel bargains.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
> _______________________________________________
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>
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tippets
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 22:55:50 -0400
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Status: RO

On Tuesday 13 March 2007 12:45 pm, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Hi,
>
>   does someone know how the tippets used to be attached to the dress? By
> pins? Or were they sewn-on?
> http://vieuxchamps.com/persona/enlarged/wg/wpic7.php

Your question assumes that tippets were a separate part of the dress.  That's 
not a foregone conclusion.  Robin Netherton did some research on this that 
tends to show that they were really a kind of hanging sleeve.  Her article on 
the subject, "The Tippet:  Accessory After the Fact?"  appears in the first 
volume of Medieval Clothing and Textiles.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


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Status: RO


On Mar 13, 2007, at 12:51 PM, Tania Gruning wrote:

> If you want to read a new telling of that story, then you should  
> read Robin McKinleys Deerskin, incredibly haunting and beautifully  
> told. It does contain a scene with description of some  
> courtclothes, that was rather nice, just to keep it on the costume  
> content.

It is all that, but a word of caution -- the parts that feature the  
daughter's abuse by her father can be pretty upsetting if you're  
sensitive to that kind of thing. Of course, the original tale wasn't  
all sweetness and light either :) The end is very hopeful and moving.
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FW: [tvfilmcostuming] FREE "TUDORS"
	ONLINE	V.I.P.SCREENING
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Status: RO

I watched both of the episodes yesterday--very entertaining!  The 
costuming is a  very...creative...interpretation of the period. 
Especially the women's headgear.  Or lack of headgear.  Or headgear with 
hair hanging out the front _and_ the back.  And the fit of the gowns 
(generally falling off or at least gaping at the front).  Not to mention 
the style of the gowns.  I'm not sure what they were aiming for, but the 
gowns look to be a _very_ approximate stab at the 1570s and 80s.  I also 
spotted some earlier Italian- and German-esque styles with a higher 
waistline that goes straight across.  And Henry himself dresses in some 
other decade (not sure which one, and also not sure how they managed to 
make him look somewhat frumpy).  And I should stop right here!

If any Tudor re-enactors do get shown anywhere in this, they are really 
not going to fit in.

I'm not saying I didn't enjoy it.  (John Rhys Davies...mmmmmmm!)  But I 
don't look forward to the fallout at re-enacting events and my monthly 
garb workdays after people see this and start using it as research.

Melanie



> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Cat Devereaux" <CatDevereaux@alleycatscratch.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 2:59 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] FW: [tvfilmcostuming] FREE "TUDORS" ONLINE V.I.P.SCREENING
> 
> 
> Hey Folks...
> 
> Mary Jo from Showtime (who's the producer on the Tudor fashion special)
> wanted me to forward this on.  You get an early sneak peak and can make up
> your own minds about the fashions in the series...
> 
> -Cat-
> 
> ps... it's rated TVMA
> 
> +++++++++++++++++++++
> 
> OK, People --
> 
> I pulled some strings and got permission to give you all the secret VIP
> password so that you can watch the first 2 episodes of "The Tudors" online
> immediately.
> 
> Meaning right this minute, Even before NEXT week's Yahoo streaming of the
> episodes. And even before VIP's get notified. Plus, the quality of the video
> should be better than regular streaming.
> 
> Unfortunately, online viewing is only available in the U.S., The link won't
> work for anyone outside the country.
> 
> Please alert your pals on other Costume and re-enactor and historical
> boards. Showime was only going to give out the link to subscribers who have
> signed up for VIP e-mails, but I persuaded them that "MY" peeps deserve a
> shot, too!
> 
> go to
> 
> http://www.sho. <http://www.sho.com/vip> com/vip
> 
> Type in the password: king
> 
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



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Subject: Re: Netherlands Clothing early 17th century-preganacy
	etc....Was:[h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2007 01:34:22 +1300
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Status: RO

> Oooo thanks for the image. Fascinating that. Almost makes one wonder
> if this wasn't a maternity outfit. Very odd. Haven't ever seen another
> example like that, or have I been missing the boat here? :-) Do you know?
Is
> this an unusual example, or quite the norm?

I was doing a bildindex search for something else and found these:
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/koeln_1386056b.jpg

Francken, Frans (2) (Art), Hexensabbath (Versuchung des heiligen Antonius),
1620/1640, Bild, Köln, Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, WRM 2215

http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi00891a11a.jpg

Dyck, Anton van, Der Maler Frans Snyders und seine Frau, um 1620, Bild,
Kassel, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen, Schloss Wilhelmshöhe, 125

http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi01489g07a.jpg

Köln, Bildnis einer Frau aus der Familie Klepping, um 1626/1650, Bild, Köln,
Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, 1575

http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi00578d02a.jpg

Mesdach, Salomon, Damenbildnis

http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/koeln_1802033b.jpg

Bildnis der Catharina Pelser, geborene Brassart / Bildnis einer Frau, Bild,
Köln, Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, WRM 1626

http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmc428310a.jpg

Cuyp, Jacob Gerritsz. (Zuschreibung), Bildnis einer jungen Frau, vor 1644,
Bild, Gotha, Schlossmuseum Schloss Friedenstein, Gemäldesammlung, SG 26

http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/koeln_2576027b.jpg

Nordniederlande, Bildnis einer 32jährigen Frau, 1644, Bild, Köln,
Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, WRM 1286

http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi01483b10b.jpg

Couwenbergh, Christiaen Gillisz. van, Bildnis einer Frau, 1660, Bild, Köln,
Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, 2178



Some of these are more obviously shaped by the skirt than others though.
They are a very regional atyle though I think.



Michaela de Bruce

http://glittersweet.com



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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <Ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze has arrived!
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Status: RO

Yup, my copy was finally delivered yesterday, exactly as promised.  It
has been a couple of months since I was able to peruse a friend's copy
and boy, it is even better than I remembered.  Happy costuming sigh :).

I ordered my copy from Michael Shamansky Books and it was $90, with
free shipping anywhere in the USA through March 31.  Ordering info
here:

Michael Shamansky, Bookseller Inc
P.O. Box 3904
Kingston, New York 12402

Telephone:  1-800-527-6775  (845 331 8519)
Fax:  845-331-0852

Email: mshamans@artbooks.com 
Url:  www.artbooks.com 

So when is the men's version coming out, I'm definitely not going to
wait to order that one!

Catherine


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Elegant courtlife in 18th century Denmark.
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Status: RO

If any of you should come to Denmark, there is a very nice exhibition about 
the high society courtlife in Denmark in 18th century.
They borrowed Sofia Magdalenas weddingdress with a pannier 1,90 meter wide 
from Livrustkammaren in Stockholm.
The curator of Rosenborg is giving a lecture in Politikens hus 10th of april 
at 1600 hours. The female visitors are given the chance to try on a copy of 
the pannier.
Ill be there with my camera :-)
http://www.rosenborgslot.dk/asp/menu/menuPages/special_2.asp?countryID=2

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "TUDORS"	ONLINE	(spoilers)
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Status: RO

Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> I watched both of the episodes yesterday--very entertaining!  The 
> costuming is a  very...creative...interpretation of the period. 
> Especially the women's headgear.  Or lack of headgear. 

I have to say it was better than I expected, and certainly better than 
some other versions I've  seen (the horrible one with Helena Bonham 
Carter comes to mind).  I liked that it was more about Henry, and the 
politics of the time, and that Katherine has a speaking role. The 
costumes --except for the women's headpieces -- didn't distract too 
much. The women mostly have silly headgear and hair all over the place, 
but then half of them are naked anyway -- and the lurid sex scenes were 
a big turn off.

If you're a costume purist you'll probably hate it, if you're interested 
in a good story in a period setting, you'll probably enjoy this. They 
call it "MA" for mature, but I'd translate that into a "R" for sex and 
violence.



Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Netherlands Clothing early 17th century-pregnancy
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Status: RO

I think it was this Van Dyck portrait I was thinking of when I said I'd =
seen the style before. I'm no expert, but isn't the bulge too low to be =
caused by pregnancy? =20

> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi00891a11a.jpg=20

>Dyck, Anton van, Der Maler Frans Snyders und seine Frau, um 1620, Bild,
>Kassel, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen, Schloss Wilhelmsh=F6he, 125


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Netherlands Clothing early 17th century-pregnancy
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Status: RO

To me this style i have always thoaght that it must be the bumroll that goes 
all way round, hence the bulky stomacher.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 5:10 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Netherlands Clothing early 17th century-pregnancy


I think it was this Van Dyck portrait I was thinking of when I said I'd seen 
the style before. I'm no expert, but isn't the bulge too low to be caused by 
pregnancy?

> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi00891a11a.jpg

>Dyck, Anton van, Der Maler Frans Snyders und seine Frau, um 1620, Bild,
>Kassel, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen, Schloss Wilhelmshöhe, 125


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

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Subject: [h-cost] Thread question & fabric sale
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Status: RO

A colleague of mine was cleaning out some of his grandfather's stuff (he
was a furrier)and brought me 2 cones of New Bedford Thread Co. thread,
#90 left twist. It is wonderful stuff! What does left twist mean? Where
can I buy more when this runs out?
While googling it I ran across this website: 

http://www.designdivafabrics.com/products-category.php?&cat_id=32&gclid=
CPqxoLbg9IoCFRn0gAod1kvFkw 

 with a one day sale of some gorgeous stuff -- too rich for me even at
these prices, but I thought somebody might be interested. 

Kate
609-570-3584



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Status: RO

I wish I could see the episodes, but my dsl system is too slow and I get really bad choppy visuals and sound, every few seconds or so. Annoying!
   
  I also am not looking forward to the show being used to support the bad research in my area as well. I am already fighting people who want to wear Henry-Elizabethan mishmashes in order to only make one costume for the two different eras we do around here. But as a friend reminded me, this might bring in interest, then us purists can work to educate them properly (I hope).
   
  Kimiko
  

Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
  I'm not saying I didn't enjoy it. (John Rhys Davies...mmmmmmm!) But I 
don't look forward to the fallout at re-enacting events and my monthly 
garb workdays after people see this and start using it as research.

Melanie

 
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From: "Brenna" <brenna.sharp@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <283542.22277.qm@web32205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FW: [tvfilmcostuming] FREE "TUDORS" ONLINEV.I.P.SCREENING
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2007 13:07:42 -0800
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Status: RO

I wish they'd get the freakin' hair colors right!  Both Katherine and Henry
were reddish-blonde!  Not brunette...!  That is soooo easy to deal with!
And once again they have Katherine as gaunt - she was plump!  Look at the
portraiture....!

*(&^*%^&$&^*(!!!!!

-Brenna
  (who knows she preaching to the choir but had to vent... sorry....)
  (yes, my blood pressure is returning to normal...)

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	<00f001c76635$18702110$0301010a@michaela>
Subject: Re: Netherlands Clothing early 17th
	century-preganacyetc....Was:[h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from
	the Golden Age dress.
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2007 15:23:46 +0100
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Status: RO

It is not as regional fashion as you think, this style was also used in 
Scandinavia.
On one of the first pictures you sended with the hexensabbat: 
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/koeln_1386056b.jpg
I noticed you could clearly se the right side of the bodice linning. It 
seems to me that both the outer layer and the boned foundation was treated 
as one, and sewn. You clearly see this at the tabs in the waist.
Very interresting.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: Netherlands Clothing early 17th 
century-preganacyetc....Was:[h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from the Golden 
Age dress.


>> Oooo thanks for the image. Fascinating that. Almost makes one wonder
>> if this wasn't a maternity outfit. Very odd. Haven't ever seen another
>> example like that, or have I been missing the boat here? :-) Do you know?
> Is
>> this an unusual example, or quite the norm?
>
> I was doing a bildindex search for something else and found these:
> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/koeln_1386056b.jpg
>
> Francken, Frans (2) (Art), Hexensabbath (Versuchung des heiligen 
> Antonius),
> 1620/1640, Bild, Köln, Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, WRM 2215
>
> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi00891a11a.jpg
>
> Dyck, Anton van, Der Maler Frans Snyders und seine Frau, um 1620, Bild,
> Kassel, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen, Schloss Wilhelmshöhe, 125
>
> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi01489g07a.jpg
>
> Köln, Bildnis einer Frau aus der Familie Klepping, um 1626/1650, Bild, 
> Köln,
> Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, 1575
>
> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi00578d02a.jpg
>
> Mesdach, Salomon, Damenbildnis
>
> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/koeln_1802033b.jpg
>
> Bildnis der Catharina Pelser, geborene Brassart / Bildnis einer Frau, 
> Bild,
> Köln, Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, WRM 1626
>
> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmc428310a.jpg
>
> Cuyp, Jacob Gerritsz. (Zuschreibung), Bildnis einer jungen Frau, vor 1644,
> Bild, Gotha, Schlossmuseum Schloss Friedenstein, Gemäldesammlung, SG 26
>
> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/koeln_2576027b.jpg
>
> Nordniederlande, Bildnis einer 32jährigen Frau, 1644, Bild, Köln,
> Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, WRM 1286
>
> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi01483b10b.jpg
>
> Couwenbergh, Christiaen Gillisz. van, Bildnis einer Frau, 1660, Bild, 
> Köln,
> Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, 2178
>
>
>
> Some of these are more obviously shaped by the skirt than others though.
> They are a very regional atyle though I think.
>
>
>
> Michaela de Bruce
>
> http://glittersweet.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <Ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] The Tudors on Showtime
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Status: RO

Since she said we could share this and I don't think I have seen it
posted yet:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
OK, People --

I pulled some strings and got permission to give you all the secret VIP
password so that you can watch the first 2 episodes of "The Tudors"
online immediately.  

Meaning right this minute,    Even before NEXT week's Yahoo streaming
of the episodes.  And even before VIP's get notified.  Plus, the quality
of the video should be better than regular streaming.  

Unfortunately, online viewing is only available in the U.S., The link
won't work for anyone outside the country.    

Please alert your pals on other Costume and re-enactor and historical
boards.  Showime was only going to give out the link to subscribers who
have signed up for VIP e-mails, but I persuaded them that "MY" peeps
deserve a shot, too!  

go to

http://www.sho.com/vip 

Type in the password:     king
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
This is the woman who has been very patiently getting an earful about
the costuming from some historic costumers.
It is an, err, interesting take on Henry :).
Catherine
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] FW: [tvfilmcostuming] FREE "TUDORS" ONLINEV.I.P.SCREENING
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Status: RO

In looking at the pictures of Anne Boleyn, I noticed that some show her =
with
reddish hair, and some with darker. I also noticed that what I at first =
took
to be hair, was actually a dark part of her headdress. Which makes =
sense,
because Elizabeth was a redhead.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Brenna
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 2:08 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FW: [tvfilmcostuming] FREE "TUDORS"
ONLINEV.I.P.SCREENING


I wish they'd get the freakin' hair colors right!  Both Katherine and =
Henry
were reddish-blonde!  Not brunette...!  That is soooo easy to deal with!
And once again they have Katherine as gaunt - she was plump!  Look at =
the
portraiture....!

*(&^*%^&$&^*(!!!!!

-Brenna
  (who knows she preaching to the choir but had to vent... sorry....)
  (yes, my blood pressure is returning to normal...)

_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Fibers can be spun in S twist or Z twist, but I forget which is which.

Arlys

On Wed, 14 Mar 2007 13:15:12 -0400 "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
writes:
> A colleague of mine was cleaning out some of his grandfather's stuff 
> (he
> was a furrier)and brought me 2 cones of New Bedford Thread Co. 
> thread,
> #90 left twist. It is wonderful stuff! What does left twist mean? 
> Where
> can I buy more when this runs out?
> While googling it I ran across this website: 
> 
>
http://www.designdivafabrics.com/products-category.php?&cat_id=32&gclid=
> CPqxoLbg9IoCFRn0gAod1kvFkw 
> 
>  with a one day sale of some gorgeous stuff -- too rich for me even 
> at
> these prices, but I thought somebody might be interested. 
> 
> Kate
> 609-570-3584
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Status: RO

Elizabeth is suppose to have gotten her red hair from her Daddy. :)
Which Katherine are you talking about? Katherine of Aragon was suppose to
have been a brunette. I have no clue about Katherine Parr.

-----Original Message-----
In looking at the pictures of Anne Boleyn, I noticed that some show her with
reddish hair, and some with darker. I also noticed that what I at first took
to be hair, was actually a dark part of her headdress. Which makes sense,
because Elizabeth was a redhead.

-----Original Message-----
I wish they'd get the freakin' hair colors right!  Both Katherine and Henry
were reddish-blonde!  Not brunette...!  That is soooo easy to deal with!
And once again they have Katherine as gaunt - she was plump!  Look at the
portraiture....!

*(&^*%^&$&^*(!!!!!

-Brenna



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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:Hair color ; FREE "TUDORS" ONLINEV.I.P.SCREENING
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Status: RO

On Thursday 15 March 2007 1:13 am, otsisto wrote:
> Elizabeth is suppose to have gotten her red hair from her Daddy. :)
> Which Katherine are you talking about? Katherine of Aragon was suppose to
> have been a brunette. I have no clue about Katherine Parr.

Nope.  The only portrait of Katherine of Aragon before she would have been 
gray shows her with reddish blonde hair.  You're assuming she would have been 
dark because she was a Spaniard; not necessarily so.  Mary Tudor, her 
daughteer, was also red haired.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


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From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:Hair color ; FREE "TUDORS" ONLINEV.I.P.SCREENING
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Status: RO

Actually, Katherine of Aragon was relatively dark blonde/reddish when she was younger, but she got darker as she got older, although even in that famous minature (where she looks so dumpy), her hair still isn't what I'd think of as "Spanish" black.  I found both portraits on the web here:
   
  http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/aragon.html
   
  KP
  

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  Elizabeth is suppose to have gotten her red hair from her Daddy. :)
Which Katherine are you talking about? Katherine of Aragon was suppose to
have been a brunette. I have no clue about Katherine Parr.

-----Original Message-----
In looking at the pictures of Anne Boleyn, I noticed that some show her with
reddish hair, and some with darker. I also noticed that what I at first took
to be hair, was actually a dark part of her headdress. Which makes sense,
because Elizabeth was a redhead.

-----Original Message-----
I wish they'd get the freakin' hair colors right! Both Katherine and Henry
were reddish-blonde! Not brunette...! That is soooo easy to deal with!
And once again they have Katherine as gaunt - she was plump! Look at the
portraiture....!

*(&^*%^&$&^*(!!!!!

-Brenna



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 15 00:54:56 2007
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20070314.192515.3920.9.Cley@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thread question & fabric sale
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2007 22:02:30 -0700
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Status: RO

I'm guessing that it refers to threads twisted/plied to the left, or
counter-clockwise.  That would make them S-twist, I think.
--Sue, who had to pretend-ply to figure it out ;o)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thread question & fabric sale


> Fibers can be spun in S twist or Z twist, but I forget which is which.
>
> Arlys
>
> On Wed, 14 Mar 2007 13:15:12 -0400 "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
> writes:
> > A colleague of mine was cleaning out some of his grandfather's stuff
> > (he
> > was a furrier)and brought me 2 cones of New Bedford Thread Co.
> > thread,
> > #90 left twist. It is wonderful stuff! What does left twist mean?


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:Hair color ; FREE "TUDORS" ONLINEV.I.P.SCREENING
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Status: RO

Catherine of Aragon had taffy colored hair. The mistake most people make =
is
seeing that very crude painting of her in a gable headdress. In that, =
what
looks like her hair is really part of the fabric of the hood. You can =
see a
tiny bit of her blonde hair at the peak of the gable. There is a much =
better
portrait of her, made when she was younger. In it, she is indeed lovely. =

And, in order for a child to have red hair, she/he must get the =
recessive
gene from both parents. It is interesting to note in the drawing of Anne =
by
Holbein, there is a bit of color--her hair, which he colored a soft red.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 10:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] RE:Hair color ; FREE "TUDORS" ONLINEV.I.P.SCREENING


Elizabeth is suppose to have gotten her red hair from her Daddy. :)
Which Katherine are you talking about? Katherine of Aragon was suppose =
to
have been a brunette. I have no clue about Katherine Parr.

-----Original Message-----
In looking at the pictures of Anne Boleyn, I noticed that some show her =
with
reddish hair, and some with darker. I also noticed that what I at first =
took
to be hair, was actually a dark part of her headdress. Which makes =
sense,
because Elizabeth was a redhead.

-----Original Message-----
I wish they'd get the freakin' hair colors right!  Both Katherine and =
Henry
were reddish-blonde!  Not brunette...!  That is soooo easy to deal with!
And once again they have Katherine as gaunt - she was plump!  Look at =
the
portraiture....!

*(&^*%^&$&^*(!!!!!

-Brenna



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Status: RO

-----Original Message-----
<<<Catherine of Aragon had taffy colored hair. The mistake most people make
is
seeing that very crude painting of her in a gable headdress.>>>

De: Actually no, I was not basing it on that portrait but on the belief that
she was of Spain and the brunette to black being the prominent hair color.

<<<Actually, Katherine of Aragon was relatively dark blonde/reddish when she
was younger, but she got darker as she got older, although even in that
famous miniature (where she looks so dumpy), her hair still isn't what I'd
think of as "Spanish" black.  I found both portraits on the web here:

  http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/aragon.html

>>>
De: There has been debate over whether this portrait is truly Catherine of
Aragon. The halo is one reason some believe that it is not CA.


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Status: RO

Dear List

I have just been asked by a dancer in our historical dance group if  
she can embroider the front of her bodice of her 1580s Elizabethan  
Gown, upper class. I don't have any images of this happening, but  
don't want to say 'no' without checking first.
Are you in agreement with me? She wants to do normal embroidery, not  
blackwork - which I would have recommended for sleeves and partlet  
first.

Many thanks, Aylwen
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan gowns
References: <000801c766d5$ce416d50$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
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Status: RO

It depends on how it's done.  Embroidery on bodices tended to take very 
specific shapes.  Certainly she could embroider bands or guards and 
arrange them in one of several common patterns:

the T shape (the vertical of which will continue down the front of the 
skirt and around the hem)--
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth107.jpg

diagonal guards (also continuing down the front of the skirt and around 
the hem)--
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady12.jpg

slightly diagonal guards with embroidery between them (guards continue 
down front of skirt and around hem)--
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth102.jpg

Or she could embroider a stomacher that matches the sleeves and possibly 
the forepart (this image is almost certainly actually an embroidered 
kirtle or bodice/doublet with petticoat under a black open gown with 
hanging sleeves, but the effect is similar to a stomacher with matching 
sleeves)--
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth25.jpg

Here's one of the few examples from the 1580s of what probably IS a 
stomacher (and without matching sleeves or anything else), though it's 
not precisely embroidered --
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth25.jpg
I have a color version of this, and it's actually little quatrefoils 
with pearls in the middle--you can see my reconstruction of the stomacher at
http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/brown.html
(scroll down to see a closeup)

Melanie Schuessler

garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:
> Dear List
> 
> I have just been asked by a dancer in our historical dance group if  she 
> can embroider the front of her bodice of her 1580s Elizabethan  Gown, 
> upper class. I don't have any images of this happening, but  don't want 
> to say 'no' without checking first.
> Are you in agreement with me? She wants to do normal embroidery, not  
> blackwork - which I would have recommended for sleeves and partlet  first.
> 
> Many thanks, Aylwen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 15 09:20:03 2007
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume-Con -- last chance for advance registration
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Status: RO


Costume-Con will be taking online/advance registration till Saturday,
March 17 -- that is, two days from now. After that, you have to pay at the
door.

If you're coming for my lectures, don't forget that you have to sign up
separately for that (which you can do only if you've registered in
advance). There should be space in my room for walk-ins, but the advance
sign-up will give us a guide to how to set up the room (with or without
tables) and so will affect seating.

If you're planning to pay at the door and still to come to my lectures,
drop me a note and I'll see if the organizers can take that into account.

For those who came in late: CC25 is March 30 - April 2 in St. Louis. I'm
lecturing all day Saturday, March 31.

CC25 info:
http://www.cc25.net/start.htm

Details on my lectures:
http://www.cc25.net/netherton.htm

Do we need to ask the organizers to schedule an h-cost meet-up, or can we
figure that almost everyone from this list who's planning to come will
land in my room on Saturday?

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan gowns
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Status: RO

Depending on how you define "front of bodice," you will find all sorts =
of embroidery on fronts of gowns. =20
Here is just one example:=20
 =
http://www.bridgemanartondemand.com/index.cfm?event=3Dcatalogue.product&p=
roductID=3D109219<http://www.bridgemanartondemand.com/index.cfm?event=3Dc=
atalogue.product&productID=3D109219>

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: garden@netspeed.com.au<mailto:garden@netspeed.com.au>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 4:26 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan gowns


  Dear List

  I have just been asked by a dancer in our historical dance group if =20
  she can embroider the front of her bodice of her 1580s Elizabethan =20
  Gown, upper class. I don't have any images of this happening, but =20
  don't want to say 'no' without checking first.
  Are you in agreement with me? She wants to do normal embroidery, not =20
  blackwork - which I would have recommended for sleeves and partlet =20
  first.

  Many thanks, Aylwen
  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan gowns - better link
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Status: RO

Sorry about that link.  =
http://tinyurl.com/2seejb<http://tinyurl.com/2seejb>


  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Saragrace Knauf<mailto:wickedfrau@msn.com>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 7:04 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan gowns


  Depending on how you define "front of bodice," you will find all sorts =
of embroidery on fronts of gowns. =20
  Here is just one example:=20
   =
http://www.bridgemanartondemand.com/index.cfm?event=3Dcatalogue.product&p=
roductID=3D109219<http://www.bridgemanartondemand.com/index.cfm?event=3Dc=
atalogue.product&productID=3D109219<http://www.bridgemanartondemand.com/i=
ndex.cfm?event=3Dcatalogue.product&productID=3D109219<http://www.bridgema=
nartondemand.com/index.cfm?event=3Dcatalogue.product&productID=3D109219>>=


  Sg
    ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: =
garden@netspeed.com.au<mailto:garden@netspeed.com.au<mailto:garden@netspe=
ed.com.au%3Cmailto:garden@netspeed.com.au>>=20
    To: Historical =
Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>>=20
    Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 4:26 AM
    Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan gowns


    Dear List

    I have just been asked by a dancer in our historical dance group if  =

    she can embroider the front of her bodice of her 1580s Elizabethan =20
    Gown, upper class. I don't have any images of this happening, but =20
    don't want to say 'no' without checking first.
    Are you in agreement with me? She wants to do normal embroidery, not =
=20
    blackwork - which I would have recommended for sleeves and partlet =20
    first.

    Many thanks, Aylwen
    _______________________________________________
    h-costume mailing list
    =
h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume=
@mail.indra.com%3Cmailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>>
    =
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Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2007 10:51:22 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:Hair color ; FREE "TUDORS" ONLINEV.I.P.SCREENING
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Status: RO

I read somewhere that the halo was added after she died. Makes sense to me--
she would have to be a saint to put up with Henry.

Remember, Katherine was much loved by her people (the English) and had
endured a lot both before and after she married Henry. The break with the
church made the common people very upset and angry. (Of course the nobility
gained a lot but that is another tale.)

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 7:16 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] RE:Hair color ; FREE "TUDORS" ONLINEV.I.P.SCREENING


-----Original Message-----
<<<Catherine of Aragon had taffy colored hair. The mistake most people make
is
seeing that very crude painting of her in a gable headdress.>>>

De: Actually no, I was not basing it on that portrait but on the belief that
she was of Spain and the brunette to black being the prominent hair color.

<<<Actually, Katherine of Aragon was relatively dark blonde/reddish when she
was younger, but she got darker as she got older, although even in that
famous miniature (where she looks so dumpy), her hair still isn't what I'd
think of as "Spanish" black.  I found both portraits on the web here:

  http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/aragon.html

>>>
De: There has been debate over whether this portrait is truly Catherine of
Aragon. The halo is one reason some believe that it is not CA.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Con -- last chance for advance registration
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Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:

> Costume-Con will be taking online/advance registration till Saturday,
> March 17 -- that is, two days from now. After that, you have to pay at the
> door.
> ...
> 
> If you're planning to pay at the door and still to come to my lectures,
> drop me a note and I'll see if the organizers can take that into account.
> 

I'd like to point out that if you're planning to pay at the door, they 
will not accept credit cards at that time. You'll need cash.



Dawn


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Status: RO

It seems that one of the publications I am wanting is determined to elude m=
e. All North American options are pretty much exhausted at this point, I am=
 needing someone sympathetic local to one of the libraries that holds this =
particular catalogue. It seems to be exclusively Italian, it lists no where=
 else. =0A=0AI am needing:=0A=0AL=92abito della Granduchessa. Vesti di cort=
e e di madonne nel Palazzo Reale di Pisa, catalogo della mostra (Pisa, Muse=
o Nazionale di Palazzo Reale, dal 28 giugno 2000) a cura di M. Burresi, Mus=
eo Nazionale di Palazzo Reale, Pisa 2000 Moira Brunori and Mary Rizza in 20=
00, completed in 2004 with the consultancy of Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols.=
=0A=0AIt has been located at the following libraries so far:=0A=0ABibliotec=
a nazionale centrale -Firenze =0ABiblioteca comunale Labronica Francesco Do=
menico Guerrazzi. Sezione dei Bottini dell'olio - Livorno=0ABiblioteca stat=
ale - Lucca =0ABiblioteca di storia dell'arte Bruno Molajoli - Napoli=0ABib=
lioteca universitaria - Pisa=0ABiblioteca di archeologia e storia dell'arte=
 - Roma =0ABiblioteca dell'Ufficio centrale per i beni ambientali, architet=
tonici,archeologici, artistici e storici - Roma =0ABiblioteca della Soprint=
. per i beni architettonici e il paesaggio, il patrimonio storico, artistic=
o e demoetnoantropologico per le=0Aprovincie di SS e NU - Sassari=0ABibliot=
eca della Soprintendenza per i beni artistici e storici del Piemonte -SBAS =
- Torino=0A=0AAny assistance obtaining this catalogue, or willingness to co=
py parts thereof, are deeply appreciated. This is my last kick at the cat b=
efore I give up.=0A=0AThanks for any help you can provide. I have a copy of=
 MAZZI Curzio, =0A  La camicia: ricerche d=92antico costume italiano, Firen=
ze, Olschki, 1915, =0A  ill now, if anyone wants a copy, email me offlist. =
It's written in Italian, however I am working on getting it translated.=0A=
=0AKathy=0A =0AErmine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoul=
der with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On=
 a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.=0A=0AIt=92s never too la=
te to be who you might have been.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchoma=
rc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/=
node/131=0A=0A=0A=0A__________________________________________________=0ADo=
 You Yahoo!?=0ATired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection aro=
und =0Ahttp://mail.yahoo.com 
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Status: RO

on 3/15/07 10:18 AM, melanie wrote:

> I have a color version of this, and it's actually little quatrefoils
> with pearls in the middle--you can see my reconstruction of the stomacher at
> http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/brown.html
> (scroll down to see a closeup)

Oh, thanks for posting that! The prettiest thing I have seen today, and the
photo of the back of the gown is just stunning! Yes, I like the back
better... I'm odd. I just love the way all the lines of the gold lace meet.

Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] looking for embroidery chart
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Status: RO

Several years ago, I downloaded the embroidery chart for the "Bess of
Hardwick" red work chemise embroidery.  Recently I pulled the disk out and
found it was corrupted.  I went back and searched all the internet sites and
could not find it again.  I have been told that the particular site that had
it is no longer extant.  Can anyone out there help me?
Thanks!

Terri Casey  

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Status: RO

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:


> Nope.  The only portrait of Katherine of Aragon before she would have been 
> gray shows her with reddish blonde hair.  You're assuming she would have been 
> dark because she was a Spaniard; not necessarily so.  Mary Tudor, her 
> daughteer, was also red haired.

Katherine was descended from both Edward III of England, and Henry IV of 
England on her mother's side, either of whom could have introduced red 
hair to the family.


Dawn


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In a message dated 3/15/2007 11:23:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
gailscott@eos.net writes:

I'm odd.  I just love the way all the lines of the gold lace  meet.



*************
 
I don't think that's odd at all.



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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for embroidery chart
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Wow. I don't know of the website, but if you are able to find it, will
you please share with us?
LynnD


On 3/15/07, Terri <auntiegert@att.net> wrote:
> Several years ago, I downloaded the embroidery chart for the "Bess of
> Hardwick" red work chemise embroidery.  Recently I pulled the disk out and
> found it was corrupted.  I went back and searched all the internet sites and
> could not find it again.  I have been told that the particular site that had
> it is no longer extant.  Can anyone out there help me?
> Thanks!
>
> Terri Casey
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2007 13:30:51 -0400
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for embroidery chart
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Terri wrote:
> Several years ago, I downloaded the embroidery chart for the "Bess of
> Hardwick" red work chemise embroidery.  Recently I pulled the disk out and
> found it was corrupted.  I went back and searched all the internet sites 
> and
> could not find it again.  I have been told that the particular site that 
> had
> it is no longer extant.  Can anyone out there help me?

If  you know the URL for the site, you may be able to recover is via the 
Wayback Machine.  Link here, plug in your URL, and work through the list of 
archive dates.  http://web.archive.org/collections/web.html

Good luck,
                -Helen/Aidan 


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Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2007 12:43:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tippets
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
In-Reply-To: <200703132255.50516.cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks to everyone for the advice! 
   
  When thinking about tippets, I came to another interesting - at leas for me - question - did they have some particular purpose or were they just decoration? I mean now the white, narrow ones that look as a separate accessory (this doesn't mean that they are). Like those: http://www.revivalclothing.com/images/tippet_hero.jpg (sorry I couldn't find any extant picture).
   
  Zuzana
   

 
---------------------------------
 Get your own web address.
 Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
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Subject: [h-cost] silk satin
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Status: RO

Every so often, someone on this list is looking for satin made of silk =
instead of polyester, so I thought I would pass this along:
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com./Catalog_items.aspx?Query=3Dsilk+satin =
=20

I haven't seen this fabric but I've ordered way more fabric than I need =
from this company and found them reliable.

Janet
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Status: RO

:)  Thanks!

Melanie


Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> 
> Oh, thanks for posting that! The prettiest thing I have seen today, and the
> photo of the back of the gown is just stunning! Yes, I like the back
> better... I'm odd. I just love the way all the lines of the gold lace meet.
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
> _______________________________________________
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It looks like Revival Clothing has interpreted the turned-back, =
white-fur-lined cuff with its pendant strip as a pinned-on accessory =
rather than the more accurate short-sleeve dress cuff with dangling =
tail. I know in this case you used that image to show what you meant, =
rather than as evidence, but it's hard enough to figure out what's going =
on when you look at a 14th century artist's interpretation of what a =
person wore, let alone a modern interpretation of that interpretation. =
There -are- examples of tippets in other colors, and some are sure drawn =
or painted in a truly light and fluttery way that seems to imply =
delicate fabrics, but more often than not they're white and if you can =
look closely enough you can see the fur.

As for purpose,I suspect there's about as much purpose to tippets as =
there is to hip-hugger bell-bottom jeans-- to look fashionable.  ; )

Astrida




-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Thu 3/15/2007 3:43 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tippets
=20
Thanks to everyone for the advice!=20
  =20
  When thinking about tippets, I came to another interesting - at leas =
for me - question - did they have some particular purpose or were they =
just decoration? I mean now the white, narrow ones that look as a =
separate accessory (this doesn't mean that they are). Like those: =
http://www.revivalclothing.com/images/tippet_hero.jpg (sorry I couldn't =
find any extant picture).
  =20
  Zuzana
  =20

=20
---------------------------------
 Get your own web address.
 Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan gowns - better link
References: <000801c766d5$ce416d50$0200a8c0@bob3pc><E976F1B9-4596-41DE-B04B-B75DE6D36546@netspeed.com.au>	<BAY133-DAV174F28FD5FA748F033ABE9D2720@phx.gbl>
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Status: RO

That looks like a stomacher under an open bodice.  The turned-back edges 
of the bodice are lined with embroidery that matches the stomacher.  It 
was more popular in the '90s, but there may be some examples from the 
'80s as well.  This is probably an example (from around 1590), though 
it's a bit hard to tell what's happening with the decor, as it cuts off 
so high:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady3.jpg

Here's another from 1592:
http://www.marquise.de/en/1500/pics/1592_2.shtml

Mostly you see it with the very elongated bodice and huge sleeves of the 
'90s and the squarer rather than cone-shaped skirt.

Melanie Schuessler


Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> 
>   Depending on how you define "front of bodice," you will find all sorts of embroidery on fronts of gowns.  
>   Here is just one example: 
>    http://www.bridgemanartondemand.com/index.cfm?event=catalogue.product&productID=109219<http://www.bridgemanartondemand.com/index.cfm?event=catalogue.product&productID=109219<http://www.bridgemanartondemand.com/index.cfm?event=catalogue.product&productID=109219<http://www.bridgemanartondemand.com/index.cfm?event=catalogue.product&productID=109219>>
> 
>   Sg
>     ----- Original Message ----- 
>     From: garden@netspeed.com.au<mailto:garden@netspeed.com.au<mailto:garden@netspeed.com.au%3Cmailto:garden@netspeed.com.au>>     To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>>     Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 4:26 AM
>     Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan gowns
> 
> 
>     Dear List
> 
>     I have just been asked by a dancer in our historical dance group if  
>     she can embroider the front of her bodice of her 1580s Elizabethan  
>     Gown, upper class. I don't have any images of this happening, but  
>     don't want to say 'no' without checking first.
>     Are you in agreement with me? She wants to do normal embroidery, not  
>     blackwork - which I would have recommended for sleeves and partlet  
>     first.
> 
>     Many thanks, Aylwen
>     _______________________________________________
>     h-costume mailing list
>     h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com%3Cmailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>>
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] tippets
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Status: RO


On Thu, 15 Mar 2007, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:

> There -are- examples of tippets in other colors, and some are sure
> drawn or painted in a truly light and fluttery way that seems to imply
> delicate fabrics, but more often than not they're white and if you can
> look closely enough you can see the fur.

I'm still collecting tippet images, and I don't think I've ever seen one
that could be called "light and fluttery." Lots of drapey ones -- draping
over arms or knees or hips -- but no fluttery. If you have any examples
I'd be very keen on seeing them. 

The colored ones I know about are mostly from grisaille manuscripts, in
which the figures are painted in whites/greys, looking rather like
sculpture, with occasional accents in unrelated colors such as pink or
pale green. Taken in isolation this might look like pink or green tippets
(if the tippets happen to be the thing accented, as they often are) but
the arbitrary color choice for the accents becomes apparent if you look at
color use throughout the manuscript. I can think of a couple of black
tippet images (such as one in the Wenceslas Bible) that are likely black
fur, and maybe one reddish-brown that might also be fur. Also some hanging
sleeve ornaments that are not band-and-streamer tippets per se but rather
chains or bells. Other than that, I'm not recalling anything that might be
considered a realistic example of a color tippet, and I'd be happy to see
any examples you might have found.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Fw: [Sca-cooks] OOP / OT : Crochet Peeps
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Status: RO



I thought some of you might find this of interest.
Margaret

Lacis is re-printing some of the earliest known crochet patterns *real soon* 
http://www.lacis.com .

 From the Lacis newsletter:
We are also happy to announce the arrival of THE FIRST TWELVE
CROCHET BOOKS OF MLLE. RIEGO DE LA BRANCHARDIERE [1847-1852].
 snip
  The twelve booklets that make up this volume were published between
1847 and 1852 by one of the 19th century's most prolific
practitioners of the needle arts.
snip
The patterns in this volume include a number of exquisite lace
collars, wonderful handbags, anti-macassars, hats and bonnets,
curtains, a truly remarkable "Cornucopia Stove Ornament," and even
an opera cape. Crochet artists and needlework historians are sure to
want to add this lovely volume to their libraries. Others may well
find themselves beguiled into taking up a hook.

Anyone with friends who crochet or who re-create the mid-19th
century, feel free to pass this info along.

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Status: RO

The hotel has a large concourse along the outside of the meeting 
rooms where there will be tables set up specifically for 
"meet-ups".  We'll also try to have a couple of message boards on 
easels where you can post a time to meet.

Sandy, who wants to come to the lectures but will be too busy working 
the con.... :(



At 09:18 AM 3/15/2007, you wrote:

>For those who came in late: CC25 is March 30 - April 2 in St. Louis. I'm
>lecturing all day Saturday, March 31.
>
>CC25 info:
>http://www.cc25.net/start.htm
>
>Details on my lectures:
>http://www.cc25.net/netherton.htm
>
>Do we need to ask the organizers to schedule an h-cost meet-up, or can we
>figure that almost everyone from this list who's planning to come will
>land in my room on Saturday?
>
>--Robin

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Status: RO

> And, in order for a child to have red hair, she/he must get the 
> recessive
> gene from both parents. It is interesting to note in the drawing of 
> Anne by
> Holbein, there is a bit of color--her hair, which he colored a soft 
> red.

As red hair is a recessive, though, it won't necessarily show up in the
parents' hair colors.  My brother is a true redhead (or was, he's going
silver/gray now), but both our parents are shades of brunette.

To drag this back on topic -- I'm dial-up, so I haven't even tried these
links.  I've got to admit that what I've seen on this and other lists
isn't encouraging me to talk some of my friends into sharing the
high-speed and watching this show.  Is there anything worthwhile besides
the male eyecandy?

Leah
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Status: RO

Leah L Watts wrote:


> To drag this back on topic -- I'm dial-up, so I haven't even tried these
> links.  I've got to admit that what I've seen on this and other lists
> isn't encouraging me to talk some of my friends into sharing the
> high-speed and watching this show.  Is there anything worthwhile besides
> the male eyecandy?

I found the storyline involving, and broader than the typical 
dump-Katherine-for-Anne routine that usually gets played. Watch it if 
you're interested in historical fiction. I might sign up for Showtime 
for a month or two so I can see the rest of it.


Dawn


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:Hair color ; FREE "TUDORS" ONLINEV.I.P.SCREENING
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Status: RO

I had also heard that this portrait was thought to be Anne of Brittany. But
since Michael Sittow was Henry 7th's court painter I find it makes things
less likely that it is AB.
De

-----Original Message-----
I read somewhere that the halo was added after she died. Makes sense to me--
she would have to be a saint to put up with Henry.

Remember, Katherine was much loved by her people (the English) and had
endured a lot both before and after she married Henry. The break with the
church made the common people very upset and angry. (Of course the nobility
gained a lot but that is another tale.)

Monica

-----Original Message-----
<<<Actually, Katherine of Aragon was relatively dark blonde/reddish when she
was younger, but she got darker as she got older, although even in that
famous miniature (where she looks so dumpy), her hair still isn't what I'd
think of as "Spanish" black.  I found both portraits on the web here:

  http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/aragon.html

>>>
De: There has been debate over whether this portrait is truly Catherine of
Aragon. The halo is one reason some believe that it is not CA.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for embroidery chart
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Status: RO


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Terri" <auntiegert@att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 2:29 AM
Subject: [h-cost] looking for embroidery chart


> Several years ago, I downloaded the embroidery chart for the "Bess of
> Hardwick" red work chemise embroidery.  Recently I pulled the disk out and
> found it was corrupted.  I went back and searched all the internet sites 
> and
> could not find it again.  I have been told that the particular site that 
> had
> it is no longer extant.  Can anyone out there help me?
> Thanks!
>
> Terri Casey
>
Was it this one? 
http://katrowberd.elizabethangeek.com/articles/blackwork/besshardwick.mhtml
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan reproduction
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 07:22:42 -0700
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Status: RO

Oh, that is stunning.  You have been busy!  I love your work.  I must =
visit your site more often!

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Melanie Schuessler<mailto:melanie@faucet.net>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 8:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan reproduction


  :)  Thanks!

  Melanie


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan reproduction - image question....
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 09:05:49 -0700
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Status: RO

I went back to find your original post Melanie, and was curious if there =
wasn't a mistake in the URL.  This image is posted twice, =
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth25.jpg<http://www.tudor-portraits=
com/Elizabeth25.jpg>  (See below).  Was there another image which =
inspired your reproduction?

"Or she could embroider a stomacher that matches the sleeves and =
possibly=20
the forepart (this image is almost certainly actually an embroidered=20
kirtle or bodice/doublet with petticoat under a black open gown with=20
hanging sleeves, but the effect is similar to a stomacher with matching=20
sleeves)--
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth25.jpg<http://www.tudor-portraits=
com/Elizabeth25.jpg>

Here's one of the few examples from the 1580s of what probably IS a=20
stomacher (and without matching sleeves or anything else), though it's=20
not precisely embroidered --
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth25.jpg<http://www.tudor-portraits=
com/Elizabeth25.jpg>
I have a color version of this, and it's actually little quatrefoils=20
with pearls in the middle--you can see my reconstruction of the =
stomacher at
http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/brown.html<http://www.faucet.net/cos=
tume/period/brown.html>
(scroll down to see a closeup)"

Thanks,

Sg


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk satin
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 09:07:40 -0700
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Status: RO

This is a great company, and contrary to the implication, you need not =
be  a member.  Do give yourself enough time when ordering....their =
shipping can sometimes be slow (well at least to Buckwheat, AZ.)

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: JAMES OGILVIE<mailto:bear_janet@msn.com>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 5:03 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] silk satin


  Every so often, someone on this list is looking for satin made of silk =
instead of polyester, so I thought I would pass this along:
  =
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com./Catalog_items.aspx?Query=3Dsilk+satin<=
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com./Catalog_items.aspx?Query=3Dsilk+satin>=
 =20

  I haven't seen this fabric but I've ordered way more fabric than I =
need from this company and found them reliable.

  Janet
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Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 12:41:46 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] elizabethan reproduction
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Status: RO


Your stuff is totally GORGEOUS!
Monica (Baroness Catriona MacDuff OL, OP, in the SCA)


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Gail & Scott Finke
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 11:05 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] elizabethan reproduction


on 3/15/07 10:18 AM, melanie wrote:

> I have a color version of this, and it's actually little quatrefoils
> with pearls in the middle--you can see my reconstruction of the stomacher
at
> http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/brown.html
> (scroll down to see a closeup)

Oh, thanks for posting that! The prettiest thing I have seen today, and the
photo of the back of the gown is just stunning! Yes, I like the back
better... I'm odd. I just love the way all the lines of the gold lace meet.

Gail Finke

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Status: RO

Sorry for the cross posts all.  I'v just made a middle class full length =
full circle cape. Of course over the shoulder the cape length is =
shorter.  Do most people hem the rest of the cape to match that length =
or do they just do an even hem all 'round and allow it to be longer in =
front and back? =20

Sg
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] tippets
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You know, now that you mention it, I think most of the colored examples =
are grisaille. But I'll go through my files this weekend and nail down =
the image floating in my mind of color. I'll also look for the fluttery =
ones.

Astrida

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Robin Netherton
Sent: Thu 3/15/2007 10:59 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] tippets
=20

On Thu, 15 Mar 2007, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:

> There -are- examples of tippets in other colors, and some are sure
> drawn or painted in a truly light and fluttery way that seems to imply
> delicate fabrics, but more often than not they're white and if you can
> look closely enough you can see the fur.

I'm still collecting tippet images, and I don't think I've ever seen one
that could be called "light and fluttery." Lots of drapey ones -- =
draping
over arms or knees or hips -- but no fluttery. If you have any examples
I'd be very keen on seeing them.=20

The colored ones I know about are mostly from grisaille manuscripts, in
which the figures are painted in whites/greys, looking rather like
sculpture, with occasional accents in unrelated colors such as pink or
pale green. Taken in isolation this might look like pink or green =
tippets
(if the tippets happen to be the thing accented, as they often are) but
the arbitrary color choice for the accents becomes apparent if you look =
at
color use throughout the manuscript. I can think of a couple of black
tippet images (such as one in the Wenceslas Bible) that are likely black
fur, and maybe one reddish-brown that might also be fur. Also some =
hanging
sleeve ornaments that are not band-and-streamer tippets per se but =
rather
chains or bells. Other than that, I'm not recalling anything that might =
be
considered a realistic example of a color tippet, and I'd be happy to =
see
any examples you might have found.

--Robin

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 16 19:05:23 2007
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Circular cloak hems - what do you do?
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 17:03:12 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I try to make capes the same distance from the floor all the way 
around.  Time consuming, I know, because you have to measure it all 
around with the person wearing it.  And the problem is that when 
wearing it later, it shifts around.

Sylrog

On Mar 16, 2007, at 11:50 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> Sorry for the cross posts all.  I'v just made a middle class full 
> length full circle cape. Of course over the shoulder the cape length 
> is shorter.  Do most people hem the rest of the cape to match that 
> length or do they just do an even hem all 'round and allow it to be 
> longer in front and back?
>
> Sg
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Circular cloak hems - what do you do?
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Status: RO

All the extant ones I've seen have been semi-circular, but some of the
ecclesiastical ones are tailored at the shoulder.

Glenda.

-----Original Message-----

Sorry for the cross posts all.  I'v just made a middle class full length
full circle cape. Of course over the shoulder the cape length is shorter.
Do most people hem the rest of the cape to match that length or do they just
do an even hem all 'round and allow it to be longer in front and back?  

Sg
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Circular cloak hems - what do you do?
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Status: RO

Quoting Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>:

> I try to make capes the same distance from the floor all the way 
> around.  Time consuming, I know, because you have to measure it all 
> around with the person wearing it.  And the problem is that when 
> wearing it later, it shifts around.

...which is why I don't bother with an ankle-length cloak.  Because it will be
shifting when worn, it's futile to try make the hem a consistant length from the
floor.  I generally assume that nobody will be looking that closely at the
cloak's hem.  For a shorter cloak, I *would* take the time to even out the hem,
but there's much less fabric to swing into the wrong place in that case.

Emma 
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Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 16:30:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan gowns
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I have this one in a book
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Fitzgerald,Elizabeth(CLincoln)02.jpg
or
http://tinyurl.com/2bgs3s

I'm pretty sure the silver "braiding" on the bodice is
embroidery. Is that the kind of thing your dancer
wants to do? I wish I could find a clearer copy
online. The red (red!) partlet is amazing: embroidered
with gold and pearls. The cap matches it exactly,
although this reproduction is too muddy to really
tell.

MaggiRos


--- garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:

> Dear List
> 
> I have just been asked by a dancer in our historical
> dance group if  
> she can embroider the front of her bodice of her
> 1580s Elizabethan  
> Gown, upper class. I don't have any images of this
> happening, but  
> don't want to say 'no' without checking first.
> Are you in agreement with me? She wants to do normal
> embroidery, not  
> blackwork - which I would have recommended for
> sleeves and partlet  
> first.
> 
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Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 16:39:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan gowns
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Stupid me. I got so involved looking for the picture I
forgot the date you were looking for was the 80s. This
is, of course, the 60s. 

Never mind.

MaggiRos
--- MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I have this one in a book
>
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Fitzgerald,Elizabeth(CLincoln)02.jpg
> or
> http://tinyurl.com/2bgs3s
> 
> I'm pretty sure the silver "braiding" on the bodice
> is
> embroidery. Is that the kind of thing your dancer
> wants to do? I wish I could find a clearer copy
> online. The red (red!) partlet is amazing:
> embroidered
> with gold and pearls. The cap matches it exactly,
> although this reproduction is too muddy to really
> tell.
> 
> MaggiRos
> 
> 
> --- garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:
> 
> > Dear List
> > 
> > I have just been asked by a dancer in our
> historical
> > dance group if  
> > she can embroider the front of her bodice of her
> > 1580s Elizabethan  
> > Gown, upper class. I don't have any images of this
> > happening, but  
> > don't want to say 'no' without checking first.
> > Are you in agreement with me? She wants to do
> normal
> > embroidery, not  
> > blackwork - which I would have recommended for
> > sleeves and partlet  
> > first.
> > 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 17:35:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan gowns
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Wow, that is one of the muddiest copies I've ever seen of this lovely image. It's like someone deliberately made it into a watercolor image or something, so much of the detail is blurred.
   
  There is a nice color version in crisp detail available in _Dress in Ireland_ by Mairead Dunlevy. I would scan it in for you, but my scanner is barely alive, and now adds lines to my scanned images.
   
  Kimiko
  

MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:
   I wish I could find a clearer copy
online. The red (red!) partlet is amazing: embroidered
with gold and pearls. The cap matches it exactly,
although this reproduction is too muddy to really
tell.

MaggiRos

 
---------------------------------
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Circular cloak hems - what do you do?
References: <BAY133-DAV120847A7A90B56ECC86733D2710@phx.gbl>
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Status: RO

Cut the thing as an oval with the shorter axis being the front and back; use 
your shoulder width to determine how much extra length is required for the 
long axis. Hem evenly all around -- you'll need to gather or tuck,


-C.

> circle cape. Of course over the shoulder the cape length is shorter.  Do most
> people hem the rest of the cape to match that length or do they just do an



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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Elizabethan gowns
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2007 00:34:59 -0600
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Status: RO

Sorry, got in the tail end of this. various portraits. Might help
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/LadyKytson.jpg

I have seen at least two others of similar style but can't seem to locate
them.
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady39.jpg

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady36.jpg

really lacework
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady2.jpg

pinked 1590
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady3.jpg

De




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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan reproduction - image question....
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Status: RO

Saragrace Knauf wrote:
 > I went back to find your original post Melanie, and was curious if
 > there wasn't a mistake in the URL.  This image is posted twice,
 > http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth25.jpg<http://www.tudor-portr-
 > aitscom/Elizabeth25.jpg>  (See below).  Was there another image which
 > inspired your reproduction?

Oops.  Yes, it should have been
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady39.jpg

Sometimes I tell my computer to copy, and it doesn't listen, so I end up 
pasting the previous thing instead.

Melanie

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan reproduction
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Status: RO

Saragrace Knauf wrote:
 > Oh, that is stunning.  You have been busy!  I love your work.  I must
 > visit your site more often!
 >
 > Sg

Please come by any time!


monica spence wrote:
 > Your stuff is totally GORGEOUS!
 > Monica

Thanks to both of you!  It's wonderful to get positive feedback.  I just 
updated the site last fall to include a bunch of new photos, so it now 
pretty much shows my entire Elizabethan wardrobe.  Now, on to the next 
one...

:)
Melanie

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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Society of America Living History Showcase
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Status: RO

Once again, the Costume Society of America encourages participation in the  
Living History Showcase at the annual symposium.  This year's symposium,  
"Faires, Fiestas and Expositions: Costume as Cultural Exchange," will be at the  
Omni San Diego Hotel May 29-June 3, 2007.  The showcase will be during the  
opening reception Wednesday evening, 5-6 p.m.  This informal venue gives  those of 
us who create apparel for living history interpretations a chance to  show 
our handiwork to other costume enthusiasts.  As an interpreter myself,  I have 
lobbied for an opportunity for us to display our works.
 
I urge any list members who are already CSA members to take advantage of  
this opportunity.  If you aren't already a member, please consider joining  us.  
You can go on-line to _www.costumesocietyamerica.com_ 
(http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com) .   One great advantage of membership is the opportunity to 
participate in  behind-the-scenes visits to collections--I have been able to see 
historic  garments in several collections that I probably would never have 
been able to  see otherwise.
 
Members, though, have a wide range of interests--academia, museums, theatre  
design, and collecting, to name a few.
 
Thanks for your consideration.
 
Ann Wass



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Circular cloak hems - what do you do?
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Status: RO

Hi,
One thing you can do is let it hang on your dress form for about a month or 
so, and let it drop. Then you can hem it!

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendaslists@exemail.com.au>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 12:26 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Circular cloak hems - what do you do?


> All the extant ones I've seen have been semi-circular, but some of the
> ecclesiastical ones are tailored at the shoulder.
>
> Glenda.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Sorry for the cross posts all.  I'v just made a middle class full length
> full circle cape. Of course over the shoulder the cape length is shorter.
> Do most people hem the rest of the cape to match that length or do they 
> just
> do an even hem all 'round and allow it to be longer in front and back?
>
> Sg
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Status: RO

I promise that this is the last question I ask this week: 
   
  When reading "Medieval clothing, armour, and weapons" I came across a mention that around the half of the 14th century in Bohemia, there were detachable sleeves. For ex. they were used under the elbow-length sleeves with a tippet. This makes me a little confused as I've always thought the tight sleeves that were visible under the shorter peaked sleeves of the over-robe were the part of the under-robe beneath it. Now they claim there were detachable sleeves. Is that right? If yes, how were the sleeves attached to the dress? By strings? 
  I've got the original Czech version of the book, so I can't tell the exact page where I found it, but it might be around the 8th page from the beginning, there where the author starts to explain what were the significant changes in clothing around 1350.
   
  Thanks,
   
  Zuzana

 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1350 - detachable sleeves?
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Status: RO


On Sat, 17 Mar 2007, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

>   When reading "Medieval clothing, armour, and weapons" I came across
> a mention that around the half of the 14th century in Bohemia, there
> were detachable sleeves. For ex. they were used under the elbow-length
> sleeves with a tippet. This makes me a little confused as I've always
> thought the tight sleeves that were visible under the shorter peaked
> sleeves of the over-robe were the part of the under-robe beneath it.
> Now they claim there were detachable sleeves. Is that right? If yes,
> how were the sleeves attached to the dress? By strings?

This is a common idea, repeated in many costume books, but I have never
seen any evidence for it in Western Europe in the 14th century. Of course,
Bohemia does have regional variations, so perhaps it is different there.
Still, I would look with skepticism at this source, unless the author had
definitive proof.


--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: CSA symposium
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Status: RO

I am having serious "conference envy"....  This looks waaay more  
interesting than the American Library Association conference I'm  
going to in June.  ;-)

I reallyreallyreally want to go to this.  Sigh.  Have fun, y'all!

Suzanne

On Mar 17, 2007, at 2:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> From: AnnBWass@aol.com
> Date: March 17, 2007 7:45:18 AM CDT
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Costume Society of America Living History Showcase
>
>
> Once again, the Costume Society of America encourages participation  
> in the
> Living History Showcase at the annual symposium.  This year's  
> symposium,
> "Faires, Fiestas and Expositions: Costume as Cultural Exchange,"  
> will be at the
> Omni San Diego Hotel May 29-June 3, 2007.  The showcase will be  
> during the
> opening reception Wednesday evening, 5-6 p.m.  This informal venue  
> gives  those of
> us who create apparel for living history interpretations a chance  
> to  show
> our handiwork to other costume enthusiasts.  As an interpreter  
> myself,  I have
> lobbied for an opportunity for us to display our works.

<snipped>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: CSA symposium
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In a message dated 3/17/2007 8:04:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sovagris@cybermesa.com writes:

Have  fun, y'all!



Well--next year is in N'Awlins--imagine how fun THAT will be!  We do  have 
good times--maybe you can come someday.
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk satin
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 12:55:13 +1100
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Status: RO

but if you're outside the USA, don't bother, they don't ship overseas
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 3:07 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk satin


This is a great company, and contrary to the implication, you need not be  a 
member.  Do give yourself enough time when ordering....their shipping can 
sometimes be slow (well at least to Buckwheat, AZ.)

Sg
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: JAMES OGILVIE<mailto:bear_janet@msn.com>
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>
  Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 5:03 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] silk satin


  Every so often, someone on this list is looking for satin made of silk 
instead of polyester, so I thought I would pass this along:
  http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com./Catalog_items.aspx?Query=silk+satin<http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com./Catalog_items.aspx?Query=silk+satin>

  I haven't seen this fabric but I've ordered way more fabric than I need 
from this company and found them reliable.

  Janet
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk satin
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On Sun, 18 Mar 2007, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> but if you're outside the USA, don't bother, they don't ship overseas

I believe they started offering overseas shipping 
as of a few months ago.

--Robin

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Robin, maybe you can clear this one up for me, I've never been clear on =
it...

I haven't been able to find anything in 14th c. art that shows a =
detachable sleeve. Or how one might be attached (pins?), presumably to =
an underdress, but maybe not. But there are references to sleeves as =
separate garments all over the place (in literature as tournament =
favors, listed as separate items in the Great Wardrobe, in the Datini =
correspondence in Italy, etc. etc.). I don't know if I'm just not seeing =
something because illuminated images are tiny and can't show everything, =
or if I'm understanding "a pair of sleeves" as a modern person, or just =
haven't looked in the right places. Any insight?

Astrida

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar 18 11:16:55 2007
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1350 - detachable sleeves?
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On Sun, 18 Mar 2007, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:

> I haven't been able to find anything in 14th c. art that shows a
> detachable sleeve. Or how one might be attached (pins?), presumably to
> an underdress, but maybe not. But there are references to sleeves as
> separate garments all over the place (in literature as tournament
> favors, listed as separate items in the Great Wardrobe, in the Datini
> correspondence in Italy, etc. etc.). I don't know if I'm just not
> seeing something because illuminated images are tiny and can't show
> everything, or if I'm understanding "a pair of sleeves" as a modern
> person, or just haven't looked in the right places. Any insight?

Yes, this is an ongoing question for me as well. I've seen occasional
references to sleeves as separate items, but these seem to be quoted
primarily in the secondary literature, and I've wondered if they've
represent highly specific or localized usage and been inappropriately
generalized as evidence of broader use.

The one reference I know of as a sleeve as a favor is from a 12th century
romance, the one about the lady with the "small sleeves" (sorry, I don't
remember the details and would have to go looking it up). And in that one,
I believe she actually cuts a sleeve from a garment to give as a favor. In
any case, it doesn't tell us much about 14th century usage.

The Datini correspondence is Italian, which is another matter entirely. I
don't do much with Italian in 14th century because that's when the styles
diverge greatly from what's happening in western Europe (which is my own
area of study), but there are certainly images of separate, laced-on
sleeves in Italy in "Italian Renaissance" art. So no trouble there.

Which leaves the occasional inventory-type reference, and I haven't made a
serious study of these -- but I wish someone would! I'd want to know if
they show up for anyone other than royalty; if they're for men or women or
both; do they always come in pairs; and more. I also don't have a sense at
the moment of the dating on these references, but I do wonder if we're
seeing references to the sorts of pin-on sleeves that show up in art in
the 15th century.

Here's where my memory goes fuzzy, but I think it's in the 14th century
that we see occasional images of men at least (I don't recall any of women
but there may be some of those as well) with heavily embroidered sleeves
-- or perhaps that should be "sleeve" (singular) as the embroidery often
(always?) appears to be on just on one sleeve, as a sort of emblem. It's
quite possible that such sleeves would be prepared separately and then
perhaps given as gifts, to be attached (permanently or temporarily?) to an
existing garment. I haven't had occasion to explore this, though.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor Tailors coming to Phoenix Art Museum - June 5, 2007
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Status: RO

Hi all, sorry for the cross posts.  Dennita Sewell, Fashion Curator of =
the Phoenix Art Museum, has asked me to forward this information to =
potentially interested lists.  If you know of others, who may not be =
included on these lists, please feel free to forward them this =
information.

Thanks,

Saragrace Knauf

=20

P.S. Admission to the Museum is free on Tuesday evenings!   The =
auditorium is not that big, so be sure to come early!

=20

=20

The Tudor Tailor

=20

=20

Tuesday, June 5, 6:00pm

The Tudor Wardrobe - Ninya Mikhaila & Jane Malcolm-Davies
Join The Tudor Tailor for a lively look inside the clothes presses of =
ordinary and middle class people in sixteenth-century England. Discover =
what evidence there is for their clothes, where their garments came =
from, and how they were made and maintained. This dressing demonstration =
compares and contrasts everyday wear with Sunday best and explains other =
clothing conventions of Tudor society. It also discusses some of the =
challenges of recreating historic dress for 21st century wear.  This =
discussion and demonstration will be led by England's foremost scholars =
of Elizabethan and Tudor dress formerly in charge of creating the =
reenactment clothing at Hampton Court Palace.   For more information see =
www.tudortailor.com.

=20

=20

----- Original Message -----=20

From:  Sewell, Dennita=20

To: Knauf, Saragrace

Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 1:41 PM

=20

This version is approved to send out.  Thank you very much for helping =
promote the event. They will be selling books and merchandise afterward. =
=20

=20

Dennita Sewell=20
Curator of Fashion Design=20
Phoenix Art Museum=20
1625 N. Central Avenue=20
Phoenix, Arizona 85004=20

=20

=20
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk satin
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Status: RO

----- Original Message -----
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
> but if you're outside the USA, don't bother, they don't ship overseas
> Elizabeth

Unless they've changed back in the past few weeks, this is no longer
true--they now ship to western Europe & Canada.  This is straight from the
owner's mouth, but on the other hand, the owner is famous for changing his
mind every 5 minutes.  Either way, it's very much worth calling in your
order, and asking if it can be shipped to you wherever you are.

-E House


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1350 - detachable sleeves?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


    "Or how one might be attached (pins?), presumably to an underdress, but maybe not. But there are references to sleeves as separate garments all over the place (in literature as tournament favors, listed as separate items in the Great Wardrobe, in the Datini correspondence in Italy, etc. etc.). I don't know if I'm just not seeing something because illuminated images are tiny and can't show everything, or if I'm understanding "a pair of sleeves" as a modern person, or just haven't looked in the right places. Any insight?"
   
  Well, I don't think you could possibly find an evidence for such sleeves in illuminations, because you can never tell whether the sleeve under the short, often peaked sleeve is a part of an underdress or a separate sleeve. The attaching method would not be visible as well, because it must have been done from the inside - I'd guess by strings like in the renaissance. I think pins wouldn't work well.
  But this is just a hypothesis:-)

   

 
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(By the way, I apologize-- I have no idea why my message seem to show up =
with an attachment, it doesn't happen with anything else I do...I'm =
certainly NOT attaching anything when I send...)

I'd say the sleeves we see in 14th c. art are almost exclusively part of =
a whole garment, not a separate item. And while Renaissance sleeves are =
often shown laced on later on, there are also plenty of paintings =
showing pins securing sleeves in place. It's just that -we- don't think =
that way!

Astrida

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Sun 3/18/2007 3:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1350 - detachable sleeves?
=20

    "Or how one might be attached (pins?), presumably to an underdress, =
but maybe not. But there are references to sleeves as separate garments =
all over the place (in literature as tournament favors, listed as =
separate items in the Great Wardrobe, in the Datini correspondence in =
Italy, etc. etc.). I don't know if I'm just not seeing something because =
illuminated images are tiny and can't show everything, or if I'm =
understanding "a pair of sleeves" as a modern person, or just haven't =
looked in the right places. Any insight?"
  =20
  Well, I don't think you could possibly find an evidence for such =
sleeves in illuminations, because you can never tell whether the sleeve =
under the short, often peaked sleeve is a part of an underdress or a =
separate sleeve. The attaching method would not be visible as well, =
because it must have been done from the inside - I'd guess by strings =
like in the renaissance. I think pins wouldn't work well.
  But this is just a hypothesis:-)

  =20

=20
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Thanks, Robin...

What about Stella Mary Newton's reference to the captive French king in =
1360, (p. 58):

"The clothes consisted of a suit of three garments: cote, surcote, =
housee and hood, with two pairs of sleeves for the cote, all in violet =
cloth in grain; a dressing gown-- mantel a lever de nuit-- with a hood =
and two neck-pieces (ammucas); six pairs of hose in two colors in grain, =
a cote hardi, mantle, 'simple' cote (not padded or lined), a hood and =
two pairs of sleeves in blue cloth left over from the suit he had made =
at All Saints in the previous year."

She says all this is listed in the "Journal de la depense du roi Jean" =
and I'd LOVE to take a look at the original source....not that my =
medieval French is that great!  ; )

But anyway, these don't sound particularly special or embellished, =
though again, not seeing the original source I may simply not have =
enough info.

Astrida

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1350 - detachable sleeves?
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On Sun, 18 Mar 2007, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:

> But anyway, these don't sound particularly special or embellished,
> though again, not seeing the original source I may simply not have
> enough info.

Yep.

The first set were "in grain," meaning kyed with kermes (exhorbitantly
expensive). But the second were just "blue cloth."

I too would love to know what the original said. Newton's translations
aren't always inarguable. 

Worth noting also this is for a king, so we'd need a few steps more to
generalize either to a lower class level or to women.

--Robin




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From: Jodi Nelson <faerieglenstudios@yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

Sorry this is a little late, but S twist is American made clockwise thread. Z twist is European made counterclockwise thead. The Z twist is less prone to tangling and knotting as well as stronger. Mettler and Gutterman come to mind for good Z twist.

Jodi Nelson

 
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	Is the above-mentioned Dianne on this list?

Regards,
Lorina
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 15:45:02 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] leading strings for elizabethans?
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Status: RO

Has anyone used leading strings in an Elizabethan setting/outfit for their
children? How did you do it? Did you attach tapes to each outfit, or is
there some way to make them interchangeable? I'm tempted to try to make some
sort of harness that I can clip onto my toddler to wear underneath a jerkin.
Has anyone tried something like that? I'm concerned that all the tugging and
pulling that I'm anticipating will yank the leading strings right out of the
seams. 
 
Any experiences with leading strings will be greatly appreciated!
 
Also, are there any useful patterns for 18-24 month sizes for Eliz.? Thanks!
 
*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 
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WHY did they have detachable sleeves?   it seems strange, 
like the garment would be less functional that way. 
  thanks,  Kitty


Kitty in Somerset, PA
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Thread Twist
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 17:05:23 -0700
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Status: RO

But WHY? I would think that thread would be just as strong no matter which
direction it was spun. Does it have to do with sewing machines and the way
they are threaded? Do the differences matter for hand sewing as well as
machine?
Sharon C.
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Jodi Nelson
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 12:56 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Thread Twist


Sorry this is a little late, but S twist is American made clockwise thread.
Z twist is European made counterclockwise thead. The Z twist is less prone
to tangling and knotting as well as stronger. Mettler and Gutterman come to
mind for good Z twist.

Jodi Nelson

 
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] detachable sleeves
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Status: RO

I think you need to clarify where and when for the proper answer cause they 
are not all the same. :)

Chiara


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kirsten Felton" <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 2:23 PM
Subject: [h-cost] detachable sleeves


>
> WHY did they have detachable sleeves?   it seems strange, like the garment 
> would be less functional that way. thanks,  Kitty
>
>
> Kitty in Somerset, PA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] leading strings for elizabethans?
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 17:15:48 -0700
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Status: RO

Maybe thread the leading string through the back of the jerkin, so it is =
one
continuous piece. Might pull the jerkin out of alignment, but you won't =
risk
a string breaking loose at a crucial moment.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Rebecca Schmitt
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 1:45 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] leading strings for elizabethans?


Has anyone used leading strings in an Elizabethan setting/outfit for =
their
children? How did you do it? Did you attach tapes to each outfit, or is
there some way to make them interchangeable? I'm tempted to try to make =
some
sort of harness that I can clip onto my toddler to wear underneath a =
jerkin.
Has anyone tried something like that? I'm concerned that all the tugging =
and
pulling that I'm anticipating will yank the leading strings right out of =
the
seams.=20
=20
Any experiences with leading strings will be greatly appreciated!
=20
Also, are there any useful patterns for 18-24 month sizes for Eliz.? =
Thanks!
=20
*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
=20
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
=20
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] detachable sleeves
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 17:20:07 -0700
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Status: RO

They had detachable sleeves so they could vary their outfits, and  if =
one
got damaged, or soiled, they didn't have to clean the whole garment. =
Often
women had sleeves and forepart matching, so you could have a basic gown, =
in
black, for instance, but multiple sets of sleeves and foreparts (which =
use
much less expensive material) and vary your look easily. I know at =
Faire, we
remove our sleeves if it gets too hot. I don't know if that is just
something we do for our own comfort, or if it was also done in past =
times.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Kirsten Felton
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 12:23 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] detachable sleeves



WHY did they have detachable sleeves?   it seems strange,=20
like the garment would be less functional that way.=20
  thanks,  Kitty


Kitty in Somerset, PA
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Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 20:16:00 -0500
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] leading strings for elizabethans?
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Status: RO

In modern settings I've used a harness for clipping a child into a stroller
- this was Germany so I'm not sure if they are available stateside - that I
attached a leach to.  It kept my daughter within ten feet of me without
having to hold my hand, very important to a very independent little girl.

I have also used a length of woven trim about a inch wide tied around my
granddaughter's waist, and then a loop on the other end for my wrist.  It
worked well to keep her close at an event, just had to watch her getting
tangled with a friend's dogs.

As to how they did it in this era, I'm not sure.  I can only think of one
image of a little girl with leading stings.  You can't tell she's wearing
them, except her older sister is holding onto them.

alex

On 3/19/07, Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote:
>
> Has anyone used leading strings in an Elizabethan setting/outfit for their
> children? How did you do it? Did you attach tapes to each outfit, or is
> there some way to make them interchangeable? I'm tempted to try to make
> some
> sort of harness that I can clip onto my toddler to wear underneath a
> jerkin.
> Has anyone tried something like that? I'm concerned that all the tugging
> and
> pulling that I'm anticipating will yank the leading strings right out of
> the
> seams.
>
> Any experiences with leading strings will be greatly appreciated!
>
> Also, are there any useful patterns for 18-24 month sizes for Eliz.?
> Thanks!
>
> *******************************************************************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
> Bristol Renaissance Faire
>
> My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
> *******************************************************************
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or with
finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] leading strings for elizabethans?
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 21:27:16 -0500
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Status: RO

Yes, the harness idea came from a teddy-bear "backpack"/harness that has a
leash which clips onto it that we use. It is nice and secure - very
important when said 18-month-old decides to take off!

We will be in a Faire setting with an open fire and a very large site to
roam in (along with a few ponds, etc.), so I want to be sure my son is
well-secured to Mommy!

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
> Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 8:16 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] leading strings for elizabethans?
> 
> In modern settings I've used a harness for clipping a child 
> into a stroller
> - this was Germany so I'm not sure if they are available 
> stateside - that I attached a leach to.  It kept my daughter 
> within ten feet of me without having to hold my hand, very 
> important to a very independent little girl.
> 
> I have also used a length of woven trim about a inch wide 
> tied around my granddaughter's waist, and then a loop on the 
> other end for my wrist.  It worked well to keep her close at 
> an event, just had to watch her getting tangled with a friend's dogs.
> 
> As to how they did it in this era, I'm not sure.  I can only 
> think of one image of a little girl with leading stings.  You 
> can't tell she's wearing them, except her older sister is 
> holding onto them.
> 
> alex
> 
> On 3/19/07, Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone used leading strings in an Elizabethan 
> setting/outfit for 
> > their children? How did you do it? Did you attach tapes to each 
> > outfit, or is there some way to make them interchangeable? 
> I'm tempted 
> > to try to make some sort of harness that I can clip onto my 
> toddler to 
> > wear underneath a jerkin.
> > Has anyone tried something like that? I'm concerned that all the 
> > tugging and pulling that I'm anticipating will yank the leading 
> > strings right out of the seams.
> >
> > Any experiences with leading strings will be greatly appreciated!
> >
> > Also, are there any useful patterns for 18-24 month sizes for Eliz.?
> > Thanks!
> >
> > *******************************************************************
> > Rebecca Schmitt
> > aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence Bristol Renaissance Faire
> >
> > My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
> > *******************************************************************
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
> 
> --
> I can handle anything that life throws at me.
> I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or 
> gracefully, or with finesse, or expediently
> -- but I will handle it.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee <brennasca@erols.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thread Twist
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Status: RO

Sewing Machines are set up for different twists.  I had a double needle 
sewing machine and if I used the wrong twist on the wrong side, the 
thread would ravel and break.

Brenna

Sharon Collier wrote:
> But WHY? I would think that thread would be just as strong no matter which
> direction it was spun. Does it have to do with sewing machines and the way
> they are threaded? Do the differences matter for hand sewing as well as
> machine?
> Sharon C.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Jodi Nelson
> Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 12:56 PM
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Thread Twist
>
>
> Sorry this is a little late, but S twist is American made clockwise thread.
> Z twist is European made counterclockwise thead. The Z twist is less prone
> to tangling and knotting as well as stronger. Mettler and Gutterman come to
> mind for good Z twist.
>
> Jodi Nelson
>
>  
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] detachable sleeves
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 00:43:31 -0600
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Status: RO

This might help with seeing some reasons for detached sleeves though it is
of later era.
http://festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/wk1.html
http://festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/wk8.html

Variation of the style. Possibly one might have a sleeve for everyday and
then a special sleeve set for special occasions. In some regions the sleeve
and the placket seemed to be the only thing majorly embellished (these would
be for special occasions).

De
-----Original Message-----
WHY did they have detachable sleeves?   it seems strange,
like the garment would be less functional that way.
  thanks,  Kitty


Kitty in Somerset, PA


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Thread Twist
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Status: RO


I've found the difference matters more for hand sewing than machine (but my
sewing machines aren't picky), but handedness of the person matters as much as
handedness of the thread.  Every stitch I take, the needle is rotated slightly.
After several stitches, the thread has a tendancy to either kink up on itself
and knot, or develop weak spots and fray.

> But WHY? I would think that thread would be just as strong no matter which
> direction it was spun. Does it have to do with sewing machines and the way
> they are threaded? Do the differences matter for hand sewing as well as
> machine?
> Sharon C.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] detachable sleeves
Message-ID: <1174401563.45fff21b5f233@webmail01.unl.edu>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 09:39:23 -0500 (CDT)
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Status: RO


I love the woman in green in the back of the center one.  Her sleeves are still
attached to her bodice, but her arms aren't in them, and they're pinned (I
assume) behind her, out of the way.
Emma

Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> This might help with seeing some reasons for detached sleeves though it
> is
> of later era.
> http://festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/wk1.html
> http://festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/wk8.html
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Subject: [h-cost] oval metal spangels
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Status: RO

I found a substitute for the oval leaf spangels i searched for.
This place has some nailsheads wich are suitable. they also have some 
gorgeous silk ribbons, real silk!

http://www.mjtrim.com/catalog/family.aspx?family=26%3a06

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Leading strings
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Status: RO

No experience with small children, but...

Alexandria wrote:
>As to how they did it in this era, I'm not sure.  I can only think of
one
>image of a little girl with leading stings.  You can't tell she's
wearing
>them, except her older sister is holding onto them.

They used strips of fabric sewn to the shoulders of the child's
garment. I've seen them used at reenactment events. It must have worked
in the 16th-17th centuries...


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Leading strings
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Status: RO

Also 18th century it was used. Frequently seen in portraits.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 3:56 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Leading strings


> No experience with small children, but...
> 
> Alexandria wrote:
>>As to how they did it in this era, I'm not sure.  I can only think of
> one
>>image of a little girl with leading stings.  You can't tell she's
> wearing
>>them, except her older sister is holding onto them.
> 
> They used strips of fabric sewn to the shoulders of the child's
> garment. I've seen them used at reenactment events. It must have worked
> in the 16th-17th centuries...
> 
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: detachable sleeves
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Status: RO

thanks for all the replies.  that clears things up 
wonderfully, especially the pictures.  very interesting.

I'm not a learned as most of you are, and I don't have the 
priviledge of being involved in renfaire or anything but 
just interested in clothing as it relates to history, as a 
way of entering into the lives of the people.

Not like throwing on a garment like we do today was it? 
 it must have taken an hour to get dressed back then.

Also, Was the "forepart" like a vest?

Thanks,



Kitty in Somerset, PA
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: detachable sleeves
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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 10:29:49 -0500 (CDT)
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Status: RO


Detatchable sleeves aren't totally unknown today:
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring07/PATTribena.html

A forepart is a decorative panel of an underskirt that shows when the outer
skirt is split open in the front.

Quoting Kirsten Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>:

> thanks for all the replies.  that clears things up 
> wonderfully, especially the pictures.  very interesting.
> 
> I'm not a learned as most of you are, and I don't have the 
> priviledge of being involved in renfaire or anything but 
> just interested in clothing as it relates to history, as a 
> way of entering into the lives of the people.
> 
> Not like throwing on a garment like we do today was it? 
>  it must have taken an hour to get dressed back then.
> 
> Also, Was the "forepart" like a vest?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> Kitty in Somerset, PA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: detachable sleeves
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Status: RO

00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:

> Detatchable sleeves aren't totally unknown today:
> http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring07/PATTribena.html
> 

Jackets with removeable sleeves are pretty common, too. In the spring or 
fall, when you want warmth on your chest, but not the bulk of a heavy 
coat, they are great.

http://mlb.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pMLB2-2549543dt.jpg

Having used separate sleeves at events I can see why they would have 
been popular. Wear them in the morning when you have to go out and do 
chores, and when the day warms up, they come off easily.


Dawn



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From: "margaret" <m.p.decker@att.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<45FFF63502000014000CDBC4@Cluster1_gwise3_server.derby.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Leading strings
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 11:35:43 -0500
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Status: RO

Having raised three kids and two grand kids in the SCA, I can say that lead 
strings with a harness work best. They rarely come unsewn at the wrong time. 
I had a set my mother-in-law gave me when my oldest was a toddler and it's 
still after all these yearsin my oldest grandaughter's hope chest. I don't 
think they were new when I got them. The came from England. Try Googling 
Leadstrings. These were off white and are now a greyish white. They did not 
look out of place and fitted fairly well under the outer tunic.
Margaret 

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: detachable sleeves
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 09:37:39 -0700
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Status: RO

No, an underskirt, with the front a nice material, so it showed under a
split-front skirt. The back/sides were often less expensive fabric, as they
are not supposed to be seen.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kirsten Felton
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 8:18 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: detachable sleeves


thanks for all the replies.  that clears things up 
wonderfully, especially the pictures.  very interesting.

I'm not a learned as most of you are, and I don't have the 
priviledge of being involved in renfaire or anything but 
just interested in clothing as it relates to history, as a 
way of entering into the lives of the people.

Not like throwing on a garment like we do today was it? 
 it must have taken an hour to get dressed back then.

Also, Was the "forepart" like a vest?

Thanks,



Kitty in Somerset, PA
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: detacheable sleeves
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Status: RO

I do a version of detacheable sleeves that may or may not be period =20
(though there seems to be some hints at it in what I've seen--just =20
haven't bothered to look!): I make one or more pair of sleeves, =20
completely finish the edges of both the sleeves and the armholes of =20
the garment they'll go on, and then baste them on each time I wear the =20
garment.  It sounds horribly time consuming, but it isn't really! Five =20
minutes of quick whipstitch in a matching thread, and voila.

It has two really big advantages that I like: first, it doesn't LOOK =20
like a removable sleeve unless you get about 6 inches away (and most =20
of the styles I make weren't meant to have visibly removable sleeves), =20
and second, when I just can't decide what style sleeve to make for the =20
outfit, I can make as many as I have fabric for and switch 'em out =20
according to mood. And since there's no ties, it actually looks like I =20
have that many different outfits.

-E House
(Beginning to recover from months of email trouble... not fixed, but =20
at least I can now post to my mailing lists.  Sigh.  Email provider =20
says it's not their fault, husband who set up network & firewall says =20
it's not a problem on our side, I get no error messages, and yet... it =20
ain't working. Grr. Argh.)
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Status: RO

At 10:50 AM 3/20/2007, you wrote:
>I found a substitute for the oval leaf spangels i searched for.
>This place has some nailsheads wich are suitable. they also have 
>some gorgeous silk ribbons, real silk!
>
>http://www.mjtrim.com/catalog/family.aspx?family=26%3a06
>
>Bjarne

Great minds think alike, I guess. I was just browsing the nailheads 
at this same site half an hour ago!

Dianne
feeling a need for some sparkly summer clothing... 

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Status: RO

Lorina, she's not historic costume-minded (is that a term?), just embroidery. Do you need to get in touch with her?
Melissa





 
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From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] detachable sleeves
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 19:25:43 -0700
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Status: RO

Also, detachable sleeves are much easier to fit,  since they don't  
have to be eased into an armhole.

Margo


On Mar 20, 2007, at 7:39 AM, 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:

>
> I love the woman in green in the back of the center one.  Her  
> sleeves are still
> attached to her bodice, but her arms aren't in them, and they're  
> pinned (I
> assume) behind her, out of the way.
> Emma
>
> Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:
>
>> This might help with seeing some reasons for detached sleeves  
>> though it
>> is
>> of later era.
>> http://festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/wk1.html
>> http://festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/wk8.html
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
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Status: RO

I've been given just under 4 yards of dark gold silk noil as a gift and 
after a long time trying to think what I could do with it (I don't sew 
modern stuff and I know silk noil is not period for pre 20th century 
purposes plus the small yardage made it really hard to think of anything) I 
thought that it might work as a kirtle in the style of 15th century peasants 
e.g. http://humanities.uchicago.edu/images/heures/june.jpg (as with this 
small yardage I'll need detachable sleeves).
I need a dress in blue and gold for SCA purposes (the heraldic colours of my 
group) to replace a cotton broadcloth T-tunic (i.e. this cut 
http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html) that 
was passed on to me by the previous Seneschal of the group so I thought if I 
can use a period cut it's at least an improvement on what I'm replacing.
But I'm not sure if I will be able to squeeze a dress in this style from 
such a small yardage. I'm a size 18-20 in big 3 patterns and 5'10" tall but 
I've never made anything pre 16th century before (or at least not for 
myself, I've made a couple of tunics for other people) so my usual minimum 
purchase is 5 metres. For those with more experience in this area would you 
expect to be able to squeeze a short sleeved 4 panel (bust supporting) 
kirtle out of about 3 & 3/4 yd of 45" wide fabric, preferably with minimal 
piecing.
I was planning to use a modified version of Burda 7977 
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2jq7jr but it calls for nearly 6 yards and I 
don't think the changing the sleeves will save me 2 yards of fabric
OK I've gone all waffly in this post but the summary is I've got 3 & 3/4 yds 
of fabric and I need a 15th century kirtle either with short sleeves do you 
think it's plausible either with or without piecing, opinions and shared 
experiences are welcome.
Thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Status: RO

	Bjarne, I wouldn't be using the spangles on your suit if I were you;
had you noticed these are the type with teeth to pierce the fabric and then
the teeth bent over. This will damage your fabric beyond belief, and given
the amount of work you're putting into the suit, well, I don't think you'd
want it compromised.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Now available: Recipes
of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 06:05:18 -0400
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Status: RO

Elizabeth, what is the width of your silk? I'm a size 24-26 and 5'10"
and can easily make a kyrtle or gown out of 3 yards of fabric, if it's
at least 58" wide. Gotta love those simple, no-waste cuts! (There's
really no need for a paper pattern for simple gowns like this, in fact
they tend to waste fabric imo)  I like working in noil. It's very
forgiving and comfortable. 

::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
 Subject: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle

I've been given just under 4 yards of dark gold silk noil as a gift and 
the summary is I've got 3 & 3/4 yds 
of fabric and I need a 15th century kirtle either with short sleeves do
you 
think it's plausible either with or without piecing, opinions and shared

experiences are welcome.
Thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
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Status: RO


On Wed, 21 Mar 2007, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> I'm a size 18-20 in big 3 patterns and 5'10" tall ... For those with
> more experience in this area would you expect to be able to squeeze a
> short sleeved 4 panel (bust supporting)  kirtle out of about 3 & 3/4
> yd of 45" wide fabric, preferably with minimal piecing.

Probably not. I'd suggest you find another use for it rather than drive
yourself nuts trying to do this.

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
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Status: RO


On Wed, 21 Mar 2007, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

For 3 & 3/4 yd of 45" wide fabric, particularly in dark gold silk noil,
consider this:

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/gentiles/orazio/luteplay.html

I once did this out of two wool scraps that totaled about 2 1/2 yards (OK,
they were 60 inches wide, but you've got much more than that). A bonus:
cheap spun silks, similar to noil, would have been used for non-wealthy
Italians in this period. And there's your color documented for you right
in that painting.

I found it useful to line the bodice area, with a single layer of
interlining between the lining and outer fabric. I'd suggest a strong
linen for the interlining. That gave me plenty of bust support. Easy to
make, very comfortable for warm weather.

You'll see other views of similar dresses in other paintings by Orazio and
Artemesia Gentileschi. My other source of useful views was a cookbook
illustrated with Renaissance paintings that included some Italian 16th c.
kitchen scenes, which happened to include this picture that De posted the
other day:

http://festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/wk1.html

... which has some examples of this sort of dress with tie-on sleeves and
bodice trim.

--Robin


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From: "Catrijn vanden Westhende" <catrijn@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
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Status: RO

On 3/21/07, Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> I was planning to use a modified version of Burda 7977
> http://preview.tinyurl.com/2jq7jr but it calls for nearly 6 yards and I
> don't think the changing the sleeves will save me 2 yards of fabric
> OK I've gone all waffly in this post but the summary is I've got 3 & 3/4 yds
> of fabric and I need a 15th century kirtle either with short sleeves do you
> think it's plausible either with or without piecing, opinions and shared
> experiences are welcome.
> Thanks
> Elizabeth

It wouldn't be easy.  Playing with fabric layouts in my head, the best
I can do still only ends up with a 120 inch hem, minus seam allowances
- which would be fine for me, but would probably be pretty minimal on
you.  Another 1/2 yd or 60 inch wide fabric and I'd say absolutely, go
for it, but I think in this case it might be too much work for
sub-optimal results.

- Catrijn
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: oval metal spangels 
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 14:45:13 +0100
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Status: RO

Dear Lorina,
You are quite right about this, but i would bend up the points, and use 
those to sew them on the fabric.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 10:11 AM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: oval metal spangels


> Bjarne, I wouldn't be using the spangles on your suit if I were you;
> had you noticed these are the type with teeth to pierce the fabric and 
> then
> the teeth bent over. This will damage your fabric beyond belief, and given
> the amount of work you're putting into the suit, well, I don't think you'd
> want it compromised.
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
> original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Now available: Recipes
> of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
> -- 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
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Status: RO

Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> 
> OK I've gone all waffly in this post but the summary is I've got 3 & 3/4 
> yds of fabric and I need a 15th century kirtle either with short sleeves 
> do you think it's plausible either with or without piecing, opinions and 
> shared experiences are welcome.

I know I can do it with that yardage, but I'm a 12/14 in pattern sizing. 
I think it's iffy for you. You'll need to do some careful measuring, and 
take a look at this site:

http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Tunics/TUNICS.HTML

I'm sure you can get the main body piece out of your length, and several 
gores. Without sleeves, you may be able to get additional gores.

Though noil was considered a lesser quality fabric, people still used 
it, though maybe not in places it would show. However, if you love it, I 
don't see a problem with using it.


Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] Dyeing pots 350-575 AD?
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Hi, all! I have a question that's tangentially relevant to natural
dyeing of textiles in the period from 350-575 AD. I know there are many
consummate dyers on the list, so maybe somebody here will know!

A friend of mine is writing her Master's thesis on ceramic vessels in
Norway in the period mentioned, and she has a theory that some of them
may have been used to dye small amounts of thread or other textile
matter. Specifically for this she's looking at bucket-shaped pottery,
probably earthenware burned at temperatures between 650-800 degrees
Celsius. An illustration can be found here, it's the one at the bottom
right:
http://www.ub.uib.no/asp/elpub.asp?PublName=3DVestlandske&aar=3D1&?sp=3D1&e=
p=3D177&pn=3D119
These vessel are fairly heat resistant as they are tempered with
asbestos or soap-stone material. This means they will dispach heat
evenly to the content over a long period after being heated.

So here's the rub: these vessels, like most ceramics found from the
period, are usually fairly small. Apparently cooking pots normally held
between 4-8 litres. These bucket-shaped ones in her material range from
0.8 litres to 17 litres, with an average of 1.5 litres. To me this
sounds like most of them are too small to dye much in - but then I've
never really done much yarn dyeing.

So, to the point of my long and winding question: does anybody have any
thoughts about or, even better, references to any of the following:

- Would these vessels be too small to dye in, or is it likely that they
  could have been used because larger vessels just weren't that normal?

- Any books or serious websites that go into techniques and materials
  used for dyeing specifically for this period?

- There are examples from the period of textiles that would have been
  yarn dyed, for example the tablet-woven bands from Eveb=F8, H=F8gom and
  Snartemo finds. At Snartemo the bands are woven from horsehair (tail
  hair) which was dyed yellow, white (probably undyed?), red and blue.
  What dyestuffs would have been used? I would guess weld, madder or
  kermes, and woad. Does that sound likely? The reason why I ask is that
  these are all dyestuffs that would require some sort of heating in a
  Scandinavian climate, which might rule out wooden vessels for dyeing.
  I suppose you could set a woad fermentation vat without any additional
  heat, but it might be difficult to get it to work properly. So I guess
  the question would actually be: does anybody know of dyestuffs that
  would give these colours _without_ the addition of heat?

Um, I think that's all I can think of right now. It's potentially a
huge, complex question, I know, but if anybody could point me to any
sources or share their own experiences I'd be grateful. :)

Ingrid

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Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 15:57:36 -0400
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

There's a kirtle that show up in the second half of the 15th c.  It has a 
scoop neck, laces up the front, has a four-piece bodice with high armscyes, 
short sleeves (with long sleeves pinned on), a waist seam and a gored skirt 
set on mostly smoothly.
You should be able to that dress out of nearly four yards, especially since 
noil has no nap and you can nest the pieces for maximum fabric usage.  I got 
one for a size 12 out of just under 3 yds, also 45" wide, but I really enjoy 
geometry.  .
Look at "The Seven Sacraments" and a "Deposition" by Jan van Eyck and the 
Gravende altarpiece by Hans Memlng.  This dress is in there, seams visible.
Good luck with the project,
                -Helen/Aidan 


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Subject: [h-cost] Backing Spangles
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Status: RO

Just back them with a small piece of your fabric (with applied 
interfacing) the has been cut to a little more that the original shape 
of the spangle.
Lady Margaret
> 10. Re: RE: oval metal spangels  (Bjarne og Leif Drews)
>   
>   
> Bjarne, I wouldn't be using the spangles on your suit if I were you;
> had you noticed these are the type with teeth to pierce the fabric and then
> the teeth bent over. This will damage your fabric beyond belief, and given
> the amount of work you're putting into the suit, well, I don't think you'd
> want it compromised.
>
>
>   
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 15:50:07 -0600
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Status: RO

I have you thought of going Florentine, late 1400s?
http://festiveattyre.com/research/earlyflor/portfolio.html
or Venice?
http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/artgallery1.htm

-----Original Message-----
> OK I've gone all waffly in this post but the summary is I've got 3 & 3/4 
> yds of fabric and I need a 15th century kirtle either with short sleeves 
> do you think it's plausible either with or without piecing, opinions and 
> shared experiences are welcome.


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Backing Spangles
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Status: RO

At 03:33 PM 3/21/2007, you wrote:
>Just back them with a small piece of your fabric (with applied 
>interfacing) the has been cut to a little more that the original 
>shape of the spangle.
>Lady Margaret
>>10. Re: RE: oval metal spangels  (Bjarne og Leif Drews)
>>


I just got a Be-Dazzler (yes, just like the ones from when I was kid, 
back when dinosaurs roamed the earth.) I don't plan to use it on 
costumes, but I can have some fun with bags and jackets and jeans!

Dianne 

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From: formfunc@formfunction.org
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
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Status: RO

I think we're a similar size & height, so some of the layouts that I =20
use might help:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore1.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore2.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore3.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore4.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore5.gif

Sorry for the poor image quality; my scanner just did not want to see =20
the grid! These are basically to scale, give or take about an inch, =20
but should not be scaled up exactly or used as patterns. The last is =20
(obviously) not a 4-panel, but I threw it in anyway; it's a mid-late =20
15thC it's-not-a-princess-seam gown.
(SL-sleeve, SLG=3Dsleeve gore, BG=3Dback gore, SG=3Dside gore, FS=3Dfront =
=20
gore; I assumed 30" fabric width for each. 60" garment length is =20
conveniently top-of-the-shoes for me at ~5'10.")

All of these are based on draped patterns rather than commercial ones, =20
but they all take under 4 yds of fabric.  When (as is usually the =20
case) the gores have one on-grain edge and one bias edge, the on-grain =20
edge should go towards the front.  Where not marked otherwise, the top =20
edge is the fold edge.

I'm too lazy to hunt the diagrams up now, but when you have fabric =20
twice your desired length or a tad more, you might want to try folding =20
the fabric widthwise rather than lengthwise; you can get a lot more =20
out of it that way.

-E "cut your cote to fit your cloth" House


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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: detachable sleeves
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 15:38:18 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

On Mar 20, 2007, at 8:18 AM, Kirsten Felton wrote:
> Not like throwing on a garment like we do today was it? it must  
> have taken an hour to get dressed back then.

It all depended on who you were and what your station was. Peasants  
and serfs could dress quickly.

A friend of mine played Queen Elizabeth at a renaissance faire. She  
was visiting a different faire (not as ER), and got into a discussion  
"offstage" with the Queen there, who was inordinately proud of being  
able to get dressed by herself.

My friend was a bit appalled by this; for her, the hour or so of  
being dressed (not getting dressed) was important for her to get in  
to character each morning. It was just what she needed to detach from  
her daily jobs of being a museum tour guide and a voice actress.

-- 
andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/

Play Internet Argument-Losing Bingo!
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Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 19:38:28 EDT
Subject: RE: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

 
 

It's completely possible.
 
It will take time, and thought, and I'd suggest drawing the pattern out on  
paper first, and cutting as many paper pieces as you'll need in cloth.   That 
way you can work it out (lay the cloth on the floor, and lay the  pattern 
pieces on top - trial and error till you get something that  works).
 
I'd normally allow around 5m, but it is doable with less, and on occasions  
where customers have already bought the fabric when they order, I have done it, 
 more than once, with good results.  Any less than what you've got and you'd  
be skimping too much on the fabric.  Although I once did one with 3m, I am  
very good at economical cutting - once made a three piece suit from a two piece 
 (customer supplied) suit length!).
 
Good luck!
 
debs
 
 





   
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 16:07:06 -0700
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Status: RO

Not being familiar with this era, would it be correct to leave a slit at the
bottom sides,(for ease of walking), if not enough fabric was available for
the gores? What about an over gown, the sleeveless kind with overlarge
armholes? 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of formfunc@formfunction.org
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 3:08 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle


I think we're a similar size & height, so some of the layouts that I  
use might help:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore1.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore2.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore3.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore4.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore5.gif

Sorry for the poor image quality; my scanner just did not want to see  
the grid! These are basically to scale, give or take about an inch,  
but should not be scaled up exactly or used as patterns. The last is  
(obviously) not a 4-panel, but I threw it in anyway; it's a mid-late  
15thC it's-not-a-princess-seam gown.
(SL-sleeve, SLG=sleeve gore, BG=back gore, SG=side gore, FS=front  
gore; I assumed 30" fabric width for each. 60" garment length is  
conveniently top-of-the-shoes for me at ~5'10.")

All of these are based on draped patterns rather than commercial ones,  
but they all take under 4 yds of fabric.  When (as is usually the  
case) the gores have one on-grain edge and one bias edge, the on-grain  
edge should go towards the front.  Where not marked otherwise, the top  
edge is the fold edge.

I'm too lazy to hunt the diagrams up now, but when you have fabric  
twice your desired length or a tad more, you might want to try folding  
the fabric widthwise rather than lengthwise; you can get a lot more  
out of it that way.

-E "cut your cote to fit your cloth" House


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Subject: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?
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Status: RO

Hi, I'm distant from my books and patterns right now and
need to work out the yardage required to make a full short
cloak out of narrow velveteen. What would you recommend? The
cloak needs to go to the hip on a med/large guy. 

Many thanks, Aylwen
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion
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Status: RO

on 3/21/07 3:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> For 3 & 3/4 yd of 45" wide fabric, particularly in dark gold silk noil,
> consider this:
> 
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/gentiles/orazio/luteplay.html
> 
> I once did this out of two wool scraps that totaled about 2 1/2 yards (OK,
> they were 60 inches wide, but you've got much more than that). A bonus:
> cheap spun silks, similar to noil, would have been used for non-wealthy
> Italians in this period. And there's your color documented for you right
> in that painting.

I have never noticed the arm/shoulder treatment in that dress before. How
does it work, exactly? And why is it like that? It looks as if the front of
the bodice has a shoulder strap that connects to a string or cord of some
kind attached to the back of the dress.

Gail Finke

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion
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Status: RO


On Wed, 21 Mar 2007, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> I have never noticed the arm/shoulder treatment in that dress before.
> How does it work, exactly? And why is it like that? It looks as if the
> front of the bodice has a shoulder strap that connects to a string or
> cord of some kind attached to the back of the dress.

That pretty much describes it. As far as I can tell, it makes the dress
more adjustable -- and would be easier to make without having to fit
exactly to the person. I suppose it might also be done as an alteration to
fit a later wearer.

As it happens, I did mine with a solid strap as seen in some of the other
images, but I used this image as the source for some other details in the
side lacing and skirt.

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
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Status: RO

> OK I've gone all waffly in this post but the summary is I've got 3 & 
> 3/4 yds 
> of fabric and I need a 15th century kirtle either with short sleeves 
> do you 
> think it's plausible either with or without piecing, opinions and 
> shared 
> experiences are welcome.

Not the century you're looking at, but I just squeezed an Elizabethan
kirtle out of one pair of tab-top drapes that the previous owner of my
mother and stepfather's townhome left behind.  I didn't measure them
before cutting, but I'd guess they were about 6 feet long (not counting
the silly-looking fake-smocked band across the top) and maybe 50-60
inches wide.  I'm a 22-24 in Margo's patterns for most measurements,
though I had to shorten everything (only 5'2").

Leah
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
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Status: RO

thanks everyone for your suggestions, I'll have to play around with the 
layout on paper and see if I can squeeze something useable from the yardage 
I've got.
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 5:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle


> I've been given just under 4 yards of dark gold silk noil as a gift and 
> after a long time trying to think what I could do with it (I don't sew 
> modern stuff and I know silk noil is not period for pre 20th century 
> purposes plus the small yardage made it really hard to think of anything) 
> I thought that it might work as a kirtle in the style of 15th century 
> peasants e.g. http://humanities.uchicago.edu/images/heures/june.jpg (as 
> with this small yardage I'll need detachable sleeves).
<snip> 





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<snip>
> Look at "The Seven Sacraments" and a "Deposition" by Jan van Eyck and the 
> Gravende altarpiece by Hans Memlng.  This dress is in there, seams 
> visible.
> Good luck with the project,
>                -Helen/Aidan
I looked at the Web Gallery of Art and found those first two titles by 
Rogier van der Weyden was that a typo in your post or have I missed 
something with the same titles by van Eyck?
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion
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Status: RO

I can attest to the comfort of this dress. I have been wearing this 
style for about 20 years in the SCA.. summer and winter in the South 
and over some fairly wide weight changes with minor adjustments. My 
first was with the cord (still have), but since have used straps.

Beth

At 02:10 AM 3/22/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 21:08:40 -0600 (CST)
>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion
>
>On Wed, 21 Mar 2007, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
>
> > I have never noticed the arm/shoulder treatment in that dress before.
> > How does it work, exactly? And why is it like that? It looks as if the
> > front of the bodice has a shoulder strap that connects to a string or
> > cord of some kind attached to the back of the dress.
>
>That pretty much describes it. As far as I can tell, it makes the dress
>more adjustable -- and would be easier to make without having to fit
>exactly to the person. I suppose it might also be done as an alteration to
>fit a later wearer.
>
>As it happens, I did mine with a solid strap as seen in some of the other
>images, but I used this image as the source for some other details in the
>side lacing and skirt.
>
>--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: dye vessels...
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Status: RO

At 1:10 AM -0600 3/22/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>So, to the point of my long and winding question: does anybody have any
>thoughts about or, even better, references to any of the following:
>
>- Would these vessels be too small to dye in, or is it likely that they
>   could have been used because larger vessels just weren't that normal?
>
>- Any books or serious websites that go into techniques and materials
>   used for dyeing specifically for this period?
>
>- There are examples from the period of textiles that would have been
>   yarn dyed, for example the tablet-woven bands from Eveb=AF, H=AFgom and
>   Snartemo finds. At Snartemo the bands are woven from horsehair (tail
>   hair) which was dyed yellow, white (probably undyed?), red and blue.
>   What dyestuffs would have been used? I would guess weld, madder or
>   kermes, and woad. Does that sound likely? The reason why I ask is that
>   these are all dyestuffs that would require some sort of heating in a
>   Scandinavian climate, which might rule out wooden vessels for dyeing.
>   I suppose you could set a woad fermentation vat without any additional
>   heat, but it might be difficult to get it to work properly. So I guess
>   the question would actually be: does anybody know of dyestuffs that
>   would give these colours _without_ the addition of heat?
>
>Um, I think that's all I can think of right now. It's potentially a
>huge, complex question, I know, but if anybody could point me to any
>sources or share their own experiences I'd be grateful. :)

=46or what it's worth, I've done heated dyeing with clay vessels set on 
the side of the fire...And threatened anyone with death if they went 
dry or started to over heat <G> They worked very well. Our cooks also 
cooked stews in the same manner (and with the same big stick!)
We were doing some experimental stuff, no real direct evidence, but 
it worked very well.
I also have done a small woad vat in a clay container--moving it is 
the real challenge...not a problem in ancient cultures!
Ta
Carol
-- 
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On Thu, 22 Mar 2007, cahuff wrote:
> For what it's worth, I've done heated dyeing with clay vessels set on
> the side of the fire...And threatened anyone with death if they went
> dry or started to over heat <G> They worked very well. Our cooks also
> cooked stews in the same manner (and with the same big stick!)
> We were doing some experimental stuff, no real direct evidence, but
> it worked very well.
> I also have done a small woad vat in a clay container--moving it is
> the real challenge...not a problem in ancient cultures!

Thanks for your answer! How large were these clay vessels, and how much
textile were you able to dye in them?

Ingrid

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dyeing pots 350-575 AD?
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Status: RO

Ingrid, I can't help you a bit, but am wondering if there aren't some other 
lists for where you might get some help.  I will forward to my Croft list 
(they do a lot of spinning and weaving and dyeing.) Maybe someone there will 
know, or know of a group which will know.

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ingrid G. Storrø" <ingridgs@techarea.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Isabel" <Sabel@spilhaug.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 2:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Dyeing pots 350-575 AD?


Hi, all! I have a question that's tangentially relevant to natural
dyeing of textiles in the period from 350-575 AD. I know there are many
consummate dyers on the list, so maybe somebody here will know!

A friend of mine is writing her Master's thesis on ceramic vessels in
Norway in the period mentioned, and she has a theory that some of them
may have been used to dye small amounts of thread or other textile
matter. Specifically for this she's looking at bucket-shaped pottery,
probably earthenware burned at temperatures between 650-800 degrees
Celsius. An illustration can be found here, it's the one at the bottom
right:
http://www.ub.uib.no/asp/elpub.asp?PublName=Vestlandske&aar=1&?sp=1&ep=177&pn=119
These vessel are fairly heat resistant as they are tempered with
asbestos or soap-stone material. This means they will dispach heat
evenly to the content over a long period after being heated.

So here's the rub: these vessels, like most ceramics found from the
period, are usually fairly small. Apparently cooking pots normally held
between 4-8 litres. These bucket-shaped ones in her material range from
0.8 litres to 17 litres, with an average of 1.5 litres. To me this
sounds like most of them are too small to dye much in - but then I've
never really done much yarn dyeing.

So, to the point of my long and winding question: does anybody have any
thoughts about or, even better, references to any of the following:

- Would these vessels be too small to dye in, or is it likely that they
  could have been used because larger vessels just weren't that normal?

- Any books or serious websites that go into techniques and materials
  used for dyeing specifically for this period?

- There are examples from the period of textiles that would have been
  yarn dyed, for example the tablet-woven bands from Evebø, Høgom and
  Snartemo finds. At Snartemo the bands are woven from horsehair (tail
  hair) which was dyed yellow, white (probably undyed?), red and blue.
  What dyestuffs would have been used? I would guess weld, madder or
  kermes, and woad. Does that sound likely? The reason why I ask is that
  these are all dyestuffs that would require some sort of heating in a
  Scandinavian climate, which might rule out wooden vessels for dyeing.
  I suppose you could set a woad fermentation vat without any additional
  heat, but it might be difficult to get it to work properly. So I guess
  the question would actually be: does anybody know of dyestuffs that
  would give these colours _without_ the addition of heat?

Um, I think that's all I can think of right now. It's potentially a
huge, complex question, I know, but if anybody could point me to any
sources or share their own experiences I'd be grateful. :)

Ingrid

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4601d640.e4.5a4b.798088236@netspeed.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2007 07:33:08 -0700
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Status: RO

Hi Aylwen, since I draft most of my own patterns, I am always looking to 
other's yardage recommendations.  I use the Internet for this all the time. 
Reconstructing History has a great spectrum of patterns to look at.

Here is a Man's "Musketeer Cloak"

http://tinyurl.com/24cgke

It recommends 5 yards.   Used to be you could see the back of the pattern on 
some of these sites....having a little difficulty at the moment finding one.

http://giftshop.scottishtartans.org/patterns.htm

This one for instance has a mantle for which she recommends 2.5 yards at 45" 
That is pretty skimpy.

I can't recommend the patterns themselves, as I've not used them, but the 
yardage requirements seem to work fairly well.  I am sure if you wrote Kass, 
she would tell you though.


Here is one for a Moroccan Bernoose. http://www.folkwear.com/caravan.html 
(Follow the link to the yardage requirement)  It has a shorter version too.

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <garden@netspeed.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?


> Hi, I'm distant from my books and patterns right now and
> need to work out the yardage required to make a full short
> cloak out of narrow velveteen. What would you recommend? The
> cloak needs to go to the hip on a med/large guy.
>
> Many thanks, Aylwen
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: dye vessels...
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Status: RO

I am on a yahoo group called Natural-Dyeing or Natural-Dyes (not at home computer right now)

They are more into dyeing with natural dyes and in historical ways... give them a try.

Katheryne
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion
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Status: RO

I wonder if it (shoulder string) was something they did for children's
clothing, to allow for growth. She appears to be a young woman, could =
still
be growing?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Gail & Scott Finke
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:06 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion


on 3/21/07 3:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> For 3 & 3/4 yd of 45" wide fabric, particularly in dark gold silk =
noil,
> consider this:
>=20
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/gentiles/orazio/luteplay.html
>=20
> I once did this out of two wool scraps that totaled about 2 1/2 yards =
(OK,
> they were 60 inches wide, but you've got much more than that). A =
bonus:
> cheap spun silks, similar to noil, would have been used for =
non-wealthy
> Italians in this period. And there's your color documented for you =
right
> in that painting.

I have never noticed the arm/shoulder treatment in that dress before. =
How
does it work, exactly? And why is it like that? It looks as if the front =
of
the bodice has a shoulder strap that connects to a string or cord of =
some
kind attached to the back of the dress.

Gail Finke

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion
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Status: RO

At 10:01 22/03/2007, you wrote:
>I wonder if it (shoulder string) was something they did for children's
>clothing, to allow for growth. She appears to be a young woman, could still
>be growing?



>This is similar to tying the straps of a corset to the front of the 
>bodice. Any reason why this should not perform a similar job? She 
>seems to have a fairly stiff bodice on.


Suzi


>on 3/21/07 3:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
>h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
> > For 3 & 3/4 yd of 45" wide fabric, particularly in dark gold silk noil,
> > consider this:
> >
> > http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/gentiles/orazio/luteplay.html
> >
> > I once did this out of two wool scraps that totaled about 2 1/2 yards (OK,
> > they were 60 inches wide, but you've got much more than that). A bonus:
> > cheap spun silks, similar to noil, would have been used for non-wealthy
> > Italians in this period. And there's your color documented for you right
> > in that painting.
>
>I have never noticed the arm/shoulder treatment in that dress before. How
>does it work, exactly? And why is it like that? It looks as if the front of
>the bodice has a shoulder strap that connects to a string or cord of some
>kind attached to the back of the dress.
>
>Gail Finke
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2007 13:02:10 -0400
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

That's beyond a typo.  It's the "Greverade Altarpiece" by Memling.
The same dress also appears in a "Crucifixion" by Memling.  Both
are at the Web Gallery of Art.
                      -Helen/Aidan


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 3:09 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle


> <snip>
>> Look at "The Seven Sacraments" and a "Deposition" by Jan van Eyck and the 
>> Gravende altarpiece by Hans Memlng.  This dress is in there, seams 
>> visible.
>> Good luck with the project,
>>                -Helen/Aidan
> I looked at the Web Gallery of Art and found those first two titles by 
> Rogier van der Weyden was that a typo in your post or have I missed 
> something with the same titles by van Eyck?
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
>
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Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2007 19:18:20 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Hanna Zickermann <h.zickermann@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dyeing pots 350-575 AD?
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Status: RO

Hi Ingrid,

from what I recall, in earlier periods many=20
fabrics were yarn-dyed in small pots, because it=20
needs less wood for the fire and you can "get" more out of the color stuff.

In excavations from the late anglo-saxon era,=20
they found traces of madder, woad, weld and a=20
kind of orseille and genista tincoria (I don=B4t=20
know what it=B4s in English, sorry).
Norwegian textile fragments dated to 100 to 500=20
were dyed with moss, heather and different kinds of tree barch, also woad.

I find Helmut Schweppe=B4s book on natural dyes the=20
best book on the topic. It=B4s "Handbuch der=20
Naturfarbstoffe" in German, but maybe there is an=20
English translation already. In the bibliography,=20
there are some research papers on dying in=20
archeology by A.R. Hall and P. Walton. Maybe your=20
friend can get her hands on these?

Hope this helps,
Hanna


At 22:25 21.03.2007, you wrote:
>Hi, all! I have a question that's tangentially relevant to natural
>dyeing of textiles in the period from 350-575 AD. I know there are many
>consummate dyers on the list, so maybe somebody here will know!
>
>A friend of mine is writing her Master's thesis on ceramic vessels in
>Norway in the period mentioned, and she has a theory that some of them
>may have been used to dye small amounts of thread or other textile
>matter. Specifically for this she's looking at bucket-shaped pottery,
>probably earthenware burned at temperatures between 650-800 degrees
>Celsius. An illustration can be found here, it's the one at the bottom
>right:
>http://www.ub.uib.no/asp/elpub.asp?PublName=3DVestlandske&aar=3D1&?sp=3D1&e=
p=3D177&pn=3D119
>These vessel are fairly heat resistant as they are tempered with
>asbestos or soap-stone material. This means they will dispach heat
>evenly to the content over a long period after being heated.
>
>So here's the rub: these vessels, like most ceramics found from the
>period, are usually fairly small. Apparently cooking pots normally held
>between 4-8 litres. These bucket-shaped ones in her material range from
>0.8 litres to 17 litres, with an average of 1.5 litres. To me this
>sounds like most of them are too small to dye much in - but then I've
>never really done much yarn dyeing.
>
>So, to the point of my long and winding question: does anybody have any
>thoughts about or, even better, references to any of the following:
>
>- Would these vessels be too small to dye in, or is it likely that they
>   could have been used because larger vessels just weren't that normal?
>
>- Any books or serious websites that go into techniques and materials
>   used for dyeing specifically for this period?
>
>- There are examples from the period of textiles that would have been
>   yarn dyed, for example the tablet-woven bands from Eveb=F8, H=F8gom and
>   Snartemo finds. At Snartemo the bands are woven from horsehair (tail
>   hair) which was dyed yellow, white (probably undyed?), red and blue.
>   What dyestuffs would have been used? I would guess weld, madder or
>   kermes, and woad. Does that sound likely? The reason why I ask is that
>   these are all dyestuffs that would require some sort of heating in a
>   Scandinavian climate, which might rule out wooden vessels for dyeing.
>   I suppose you could set a woad fermentation vat without any additional
>   heat, but it might be difficult to get it to work properly. So I guess
>   the question would actually be: does anybody know of dyestuffs that
>   would give these colours _without_ the addition of heat?
>
>Um, I think that's all I can think of right now. It's potentially a
>huge, complex question, I know, but if anybody could point me to any
>sources or share their own experiences I'd be grateful. :)
>
>Ingrid
>
>--
>This email has been scanned for viruses & spam=20
>by Domenebutikken - www.domenebutikken.no
>Denne e-posten er sjekket for virus & spam av=20
>Domenebutikken - www.domenebutikken.no
>
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From: "Silvara" <silvaragreenleaf@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?
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Status: RO

Has anyone used these patterns before?

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 3/22/2007 7:33:07 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?
>
> Hi Aylwen, since I draft most of my own patterns, I am always looking to 
> other's yardage recommendations.  I use the Internet for this all the
time. 
> Reconstructing History has a great spectrum of patterns to look at.
>
> Here is a Man's "Musketeer Cloak"
>
> http://tinyurl.com/24cgke
>
> It recommends 5 yards.   Used to be you could see the back of the pattern
on 
> some of these sites....having a little difficulty at the moment finding
one.
>
> http://giftshop.scottishtartans.org/patterns.htm
>
> This one for instance has a mantle for which she recommends 2.5 yards at
45" 
> That is pretty skimpy.
>
> I can't recommend the patterns themselves, as I've not used them, but the 
> yardage requirements seem to work fairly well.  I am sure if you wrote
Kass, 
> she would tell you though.
>
>
> Here is one for a Moroccan Bernoose. http://www.folkwear.com/caravan.html 
> (Follow the link to the yardage requirement)  It has a shorter version
too.
>
> Sg
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <garden@netspeed.com.au>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:05 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?
>
>
> > Hi, I'm distant from my books and patterns right now and
> > need to work out the yardage required to make a full short
> > cloak out of narrow velveteen. What would you recommend? The
> > cloak needs to go to the hip on a med/large guy.
> >
> > Many thanks, Aylwen
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] rich man
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Status: RO

If i were a rich man:
http://tinyurl.com/3888jm

Sigh droll droll

Bjarne







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 09:29:04 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?
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Status: RO

garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:

>Hi, I'm distant from my books and patterns right now and
>need to work out the yardage required to make a full short
>cloak out of narrow velveteen. What would you recommend? The
>cloak needs to go to the hip on a med/large guy. 
>  
>

Well, it depends on exactly how long you want the cloak, and exactly how 
narrow your fabric is.

Assuming that you are going to cut with care but not engage in too much 
piecing:
For a nearly 180cm circle (unhemmed) from 90cm wide fabric, you could 
get it out of 3.5m. (That doesn't sound like much, but it's mid-thigh 
length on my 165cm self and may be enough.)
For a nearly 230cm circle from 115cm wide, you would need about 4.4m.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2007 18:03:00 -0400
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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Dyeing pots 350-575 AD?
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Status: RO

At 1:00 PM -0600 3/22/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>  > I also have done a small woad vat in a clay container--moving it is
>>  the real challenge...not a problem in ancient cultures!
>
>Thanks for your answer! How large were these clay vessels, and how much
>textile were you able to dye in them?
>
>Ingrid
Um about 4 gallons to 10ish gallons...we did skeins and small sample 
bits as it was for a demo. We could have done bigger bits of cloth.
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2007 16:14:56 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>, GBACGcostumers@yahoogroups.com
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Subject: [h-cost] New Website "Chronicling America" through historic
	newspapers
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Status: RO

Sorry for the cross-post.

I got this from one of the government info websites today. This
website could make it easier to research American history in different
parts of the country, for example how New York CIty helped with
disaster relief after the San Francisco earthquake of 1906.

NEH WEBSITE OFFERS NEWSPAPER ARCHIVE TO HISTORIANS
The National Endowment for the Humanities and Library of Congress have
launched a website, 'Chronicling America: Historic American
Newspapers', that contains more than 226,000 pages of newspapers from
California, Florida, Kentucky, New York, Utah, Virginia, and the
District of Columbia published between 1900 and 1910.

The link to the complete NEH announcement is:
http://www.neh.gov/news/archive/20070321.html

This announcement goes on to say, "Ultimately, over a period of
approximately 20 years, NDNP will create a national, digital resource
of historically significant newspapers from all the states and U.S.
territories published between 1836 and 1922. Also on the Web site, an
accompanying national newspaper directory of bibliographic and
holdings information directs users to newspaper titles in all types of
formats."

I think this is pretty exciting, not just for costume research - think
of all the photos of regular people! - but of what exactly was going
on all over the country during these exciting times and the opinions
from elsewhere. I can't wait to hear what the people in Kentucky
thought of the Gold Rush, or the Californians of Colorado Gold Rush.

LynnD
The History Geek
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?
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Status: RO

I've used the burnoose pattern--it works beautifully, if what you're  
looking for is a burnoose (which I was!).
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


On Mar 22, 2007, at 4:03 PM, Silvara wrote:

> Has anyone used these patterns before?
>
> Silvara
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Date: 3/22/2007 7:33:07 AM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?
>>
>> Hi Aylwen, since I draft most of my own patterns, I am always  
>> looking to
>> other's yardage recommendations.  I use the Internet for this all the
> time.
>> Reconstructing History has a great spectrum of patterns to look at.
>>
>> Here is a Man's "Musketeer Cloak"
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/24cgke
>>
>> It recommends 5 yards.   Used to be you could see the back of the  
>> pattern
> on
>> some of these sites....having a little difficulty at the moment  
>> finding
> one.
>>
>> http://giftshop.scottishtartans.org/patterns.htm
>>
>> This one for instance has a mantle for which she recommends 2.5  
>> yards at
> 45"
>> That is pretty skimpy.
>>
>> I can't recommend the patterns themselves, as I've not used them,  
>> but the
>> yardage requirements seem to work fairly well.  I am sure if you  
>> wrote
> Kass,
>> she would tell you though.
>>
>>
>> Here is one for a Moroccan Bernoose. http://www.folkwear.com/ 
>> caravan.html
>> (Follow the link to the yardage requirement)  It has a shorter  
>> version
> too.
>>
>> Sg
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <garden@netspeed.com.au>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:05 PM
>> Subject: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?
>>
>>
>>> Hi, I'm distant from my books and patterns right now and
>>> need to work out the yardage required to make a full short
>>> cloak out of narrow velveteen. What would you recommend? The
>>> cloak needs to go to the hip on a med/large guy.
>>>
>>> Many thanks, Aylwen
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] rich man
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2007 21:03:02 -0400
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Status: RO

On Thursday 22 March 2007 4:35 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> If i were a rich man:
> http://tinyurl.com/3888jm

Oh, my yes.  I can find plenty to envy on this page too.   *Real* silk 
velvet...and brocades to die for.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


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Status: RO

sigh, drool, drool, indeed! I think I'm in love....!
--Sue, craving the blue/yellow lampas weave....only $240/yd.....

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 1:35 PM
Subject: [h-cost] rich man


> If i were a rich man:
> http://tinyurl.com/3888jm
> 
> Sigh droll droll
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] Have you used these patterns? Was: yardage for short cloak?
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Status: RO

Not sure which patterns you mean, but I have used the Folkwear ones many 
many years ago, and found them to be fairly true to size.  I like them 
overall.  A friend of mine recently made one of their oriental jackets up 
and was very pleased with the results.

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Silvara" <silvaragreenleaf@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?


> Has anyone used these patterns before?
>
> Silvara 

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Subject: [h-cost] Looking For Drea
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Status: RO

Does anyone have a good contact for Drea Leed?  I've gotten no  
answers to emails I've sent to the address on her website.

Margo
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking For Drea
References: <899981.55521.qm@web32710.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

Quoting Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>:

> Does anyone have a good contact for Drea Leed?  I've gotten no answers
> to emails I've sent to the address on her website.
>

I know that she was at Gulf War (SCA) this past week.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: "Silvara" <silvaragreenleaf@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Have you used these patterns? Was: yardage for short
	cloak?
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Status: RO

Oh, the link was trimmed off the post....
the saffron shirt from the Scottish site.

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 3/23/2007 7:00:27 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Have you used these patterns? Was: yardage for short
cloak?
>
> Not sure which patterns you mean, but I have used the Folkwear ones many 
> many years ago, and found them to be fairly true to size.  I like them 
> overall.  A friend of mine recently made one of their oriental jackets up 
> and was very pleased with the results.
>
> Sg
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Silvara" <silvaragreenleaf@earthlink.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 1:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?
>
>
> > Has anyone used these patterns before?
> >
> > Silvara 
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Have you used these patterns? Was: yardage for
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Status: RO

Those are the Kass McGann  Reconstructing History patterns.
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/

I've not used them myself.  I have heard that the sizing map be off on some 
of them, but that is not first hand knowledge.  But in most period stuff you 
need to do a mockup anyway....

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Silvara" <silvaragreenleaf@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 1:02 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Have you used these patterns? Was: yardage for 
shortcloak?


> Oh, the link was trimmed off the post....
> the saffron shirt from the Scottish site.
>
> Silvara
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> > To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Date: 3/23/2007 7:00:27 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] Have you used these patterns? Was: yardage for short
> cloak?
> >
> > Not sure which patterns you mean, but I have used the Folkwear ones many
> > many years ago, and found them to be fairly true to size.  I like them
> > overall.  A friend of mine recently made one of their oriental jackets 
> > up
> > and was very pleased with the results.
> >
> > Sg
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Silvara" <silvaragreenleaf@earthlink.net>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 1:03 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?
> >
> >
> > > Has anyone used these patterns before?
> > >
> > > Silvara
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] photographer photos of the anglaise dress.
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Status: RO

Today i received a lovely cd with professionally taken pictures of Henriette 
wearing my anglaise dress. And i wanted to share with you. She looks so nice 
in it!
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] photographer photos of the anglaise dress.
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Status: RO

 The last one is my favourite! I can just imagine her being gracefully swept around on a grand ballroom floor, the candles and crystal chandeliers softly glowing...
 
 :)
 ~Kimberley
    
 -----Original Message-----
 From: drewscph@post12.tele.dk
 To: h-costume@indra.com
 Sent: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 12:55 PM
 Subject: [h-cost] photographer photos of the anglaise dress.
 
  Today i received a lovely cd with professionally taken pictures of Henriette wearing my anglaise dress. And i wanted to share with you. She looks so nice in it! 
 http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm 
 
 Bjarne 
 
 
 
 Leif og Bjarne Drews 
 www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
 
 http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
 _______________________________________________ 
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] photographer photos of the anglaise dress.
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 14:47:33 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Bjarne, the photos are absolutely enchanting. Your beautiful work is  
being worn to perfection!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Mar 24, 2007, at 12:55 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Today i received a lovely cd with professionally taken pictures of  
> Henriette wearing my anglaise dress. And i wanted to share with  
> you. She looks so nice in it!
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

Gorgeous! And so nice to finally see it on a real person. I'm happy that you finally got some pictures of it being worn.
   
  Annette T


  Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 17:55:38 +0100
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
Subject: [h-cost] photographer photos of the anglaise dress.

Today i received a lovely cd with professionally taken pictures of Henriette 
wearing my anglaise dress. And i wanted to share with you. She looks so nice 
in it!
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm

Bjarne
 
---------------------------------
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] photographer photos of the anglaise dress.
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Status: RO

What can I do but repeat myself; Bjarne, your work is absolutely incredible! 
This dress is just gorgeous!

Susan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 11:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] photographer photos of the anglaise dress.


> Today i received a lovely cd with professionally taken pictures of 
> Henriette wearing my anglaise dress. And i wanted to share with you. She 
> looks so nice in it!
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 15:41:47 -0400
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] photographer photos of the anglaise dress.
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Simply beautiful.  And so nice to see one of your incredible dresses on a 
live model.
Thanks for posting the pictures.
                 -Helen/Aidan 


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] photographer photos of the anglaise dress.
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 13:03:19 -0700
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Status: RO

It looks even better on a person. Absolutely gorgeous!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 9:56 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] photographer photos of the anglaise dress.


Today i received a lovely cd with professionally taken pictures of =
Henriette

wearing my anglaise dress. And i wanted to share with you. She looks so =
nice

in it!
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/=20


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Status: RO

Hi all,
I thank you very much for your lovely responses. I am very happy, its very 
rare when you get such extraordinary good pictures of the costumes you make. 
Henriette really surprised me with these.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] photographer photos
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 23:05:27 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I can only reiterate what others have said:  Gorgeous!

Thanks for sharing all the photos.

Susan


On Mar 24, 2007, at 5:09 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi all,
> I thank you very much for your lovely responses. I am very happy, its 
> very rare when you get such extraordinary good pictures of the 
> costumes you make. Henriette really surprised me with these.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

Oh, my!  Just lovely.  Henriette looks as though she lived in your dress.  I feel quite lucky to have seen the progress of your work.

---------- Original Message -----------
> 
> Today i received a lovely cd with professionally taken pictures of Henriette 
> 
> wearing my anglaise dress. And i wanted to share with you. She looks so nice 
> 
> in it! 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews 
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> ------------------------------ 
>

 
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: re: [h-cost] photographer photos of the anglaise dress.
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Status: RO

>Today i received a lovely cd with professionally taken pictures of Henriette
>wearing my anglaise dress. And i wanted to share with you. She looks so nice
>in it!
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/anglaise2.htm

Bjarne,
That pale yellow is just delicious and lets your wmbroidery show to
perfection. Bravo!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 27 00:44:35 2007
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Tudortailor" <tudortailor@yahoogroups.com>,
        "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 21:41:39 -0800
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Subject: [h-cost] New Henry VIII Dress Book
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Status: RO

David Brown Book Company is enticing those of us that the marketing director
knows are addicted to well researched costume and history books.
They expect to be bringing a hard back and paperback version of Howard's new
Dress at the Court of Henry VIII out in October.  Watch this space for more
details.  Only thing I know now is this puppy is not a "costume book" but an
academic one more on the order of Queen Elizabeth's Closet.  I.e.  it isn't
going to be cheap.


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
...whatever you've done, whatever you've been, is all, totally, one
hundred percent, your own fault.


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 27 09:22:27 2007
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Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 09:19:27 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Henry VIII Dress Book
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Status: RO

Speaking of books... someone here mentioned the possibility of a male
version of the Eleonora of Toledo book... anyone know more?
Thanks-
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Wanda Pease
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 1:42 AM
To: Tudortailor; H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] New Henry VIII Dress Book


David Brown Book Company is enticing those of us that the marketing director
knows are addicted to well researched costume and history books.
They expect to be bringing a hard back and paperback version of Howard's new
Dress at the Court of Henry VIII out in October.  Watch this space for more
details.  Only thing I know now is this puppy is not a "costume book" but an
academic one more on the order of Queen Elizabeth's Closet.  I.e.  it isn't
going to be cheap.


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
...whatever you've done, whatever you've been, is all, totally, one
hundred percent, your own fault.


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO




> Absolutely lovely Bjarne, thanks for sharing the pictures.
>   
all the best
Joy Shillaker
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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Henry VIII Dress Book
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Status: RO

I've been monitoring this closely also. Prices=20
are now up on the publisher's webpages
http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=3Dshow&fwid=3D649

They are saying September at  =A3118.00/US$228.00=20
for hardcover and =A348.00/US$96.00  for paperback. for Hayward's book.
488 pages with ca 172 black and white=20
illustrations plus 25 colour illustrations

Beth

>Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 21:41:39 -0800
>From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
>
>David Brown Book Company is enticing those of us that the marketing=
 director
>knows are addicted to well researched costume and history books.
>They expect to be bringing a hard back and paperback version of Howard's=
 new
>Dress at the Court of Henry VIII out in October.  Watch this space for more
>details.  Only thing I know now is this puppy is not a "costume book" but=
 an
>academic one more on the order of Queen Elizabeth's Closet.  I.e.  it isn't
>going to be cheap.
>
>
>Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey

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From: Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Bronwen's Blackwork
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Status: RO

Could anyone who has copies of the blackwork patterns
from the Bronwen's Blackwork link on Drea's
Elizabethan Costuming page please contact me off-list.
 I lost my copy of the pattern I was going to use and
I can't remember whether it was English, German or
Italian.  Bronwen has tried to help but it's one of
those I'll know it when I see it situations.  I think
of it as the pattern below the pomegranate one in my
own mind so you can see how that would make it hard to
tell someone which one it is.
I'll also be at CostumeCon in St. Louis later this
week if someone could bring a copy.
                                  Cassandra


 
____________________________________________________________________________________
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with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
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Status: RO

Has anyone heard when these are coming? I pre-ordered, but seem to recall
some people saying they had already received theirs?
Sharon C.
 

Young lovers seek perfection,
Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together
And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches

 

                    - "How To Make An American Quilt"

 
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: books we want
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Status: RO

I think it was a wish, not a reality.  (I'm still waiting for  
delivery of the original!  It says "on order" whenever I check.)

We got something at work today about Chaucer and academic clothing...  
will post again after I've had a chance to handle it.  ;-)

Suzanne


On Mar 27, 2007, at 2:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> Speaking of books... someone here mentioned the possibility of a male
> version of the Eleonora of Toledo book... anyone know more?
> Thanks-
> Monica

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Moda a firenze
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Status: RO


>
> Has anyone heard when these are coming? I pre-ordered, but seem to recall
> some people saying they had already received theirs?
> Sharon C.
>
>
>
I think those who mentioned they had gotten their copies had actually gotten
copies of the first printing.  According to Ian Stevens of David Brown
books, they are supposed to get their shipment on 1 April.  Sounds like a
bad day for something as important as this doesn't it?

By the way, it was Mr. Stevens who mentioned that the museum was
contemplating doing a male version (Cosimo maybe?).  I told him that I
wanted to be on the pre-order site and he must have chuckled into his
morning coffee (I'm sure it is a nice but evil chuckle) because he wrote me
back that I would definitely be on his list of suckers, er People to notify
as soon as he had information.

That charming evil chuckle is the reason I'm already on the pre-order list
for the Howard - "Dress at the Court of Henry VIII" which isn't scheduled to
come out until October (We wants it we does!  Yessss My Presciousssss!)

I just finished my Income Taxes... Yes, I know I'm a slug about such things.
It's just that doing them causes my blood pressure to rise and anyone who
knows me stay as far from the scene as possible.  As the painful process
continues I get more and more like a wounded wolverine in temperament.  Even
the cats huddle in fear under the bed - probably because that's where I put
them and lock the door for their protection!

At any rate the finished tax return which is significantly smaller than last
year for some reason - (probably because I paid every penny I could into the
tax exempt IRA account).  However there is plenty there to put in the book
buying frenzy account unless I spend it all going to Germany and Poland at
the end of April beginning of May.  Getting there is cheap!  Staying there
is definitely going to close down my expendable cash reserves!

Wanda

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile literature,
and where better to find it than here?

I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose native
language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come through a
bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to jar the
reader.

The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its appearance,
handle, and properties. Obviously "handle" is the word that doesn't ring
true here. My co-editor pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me thinks
"hand", but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term.

If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull you up
short, or would it make sense to you?

"...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric."

"...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric."

Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will work in context,
because that turns out to be one of many factors in the "handle."

--Robin

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bronwen's Blackwork
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 22:17:34 -0500
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Status: RO

If it has pomegranites on it the it is more likely the Italian and most
likely not German.
De
-----Original Message-----
Could anyone who has copies of the blackwork patterns
from the Bronwen's Blackwork link on Drea's
Elizabethan Costuming page please contact me off-list.
 I lost my copy of the pattern I was going to use and
I can't remember whether it was English, German or
Italian.  Bronwen has tried to help but it's one of
those I'll know it when I see it situations.  I think
of it as the pattern below the pomegranate one in my
own mind so you can see how that would make it hard to
tell someone which one it is.
I'll also be at CostumeCon in St. Louis later this
week if someone could bring a copy.
                                  Cassandra



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Translation help
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Status: RO

At 02:53 28/03/2007, you wrote:

>I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile literature,
>and where better to find it than here?
>
>I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose native
>language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come through a
>bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to jar the
>reader.
>
>The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its appearance,
>handle, and properties. Obviously "handle" is the word that doesn't ring
>true here. My co-editor pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me thinks
>"hand", but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term.
>
>If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull you up
>short, or would it make sense to you?
>
>"...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
>"...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
>Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will work in context,
>because that turns out to be one of many factors in the "handle."
>
>--Robin

As far as I am aware, the word used more in "English" text, as 
opposed to "American" text, is "feel". However, I don't think it is 
precisely the same, in fabric terms, as "handle". Nor, to my mind, 
does "hand" which I did not come across until reading American 
comments on line. I may live a very sheltered life, but I do find 
terms do not necessarily mean the same in both countries. Does the 
writer mean the draping, or the texture? "Feel" = texture, handle = 
texture and draping, to my reading.


Just my 2p's worth.

Suzi

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From: "margaret" <m.p.decker@att.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Translation help
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Status: RO

I'm not as well read as most on this list, but I think feel will mean more 
to the general reader. My poor benighted husband understands that term but 
not hand.
Margaret

> I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile literature,
> and where better to find it than here?
>
> I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose native
> language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come through a
> bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to jar the
> reader.
>
> The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its appearance,
> handle, and properties. Obviously "handle" is the word that doesn't ring
> true here. My co-editor pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me thinks
> "hand", but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term.
>
> If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull you up
> short, or would it make sense to you?
>
> "...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
> "...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
> Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will work in context,
> because that turns out to be one of many factors in the "handle."
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Translation help
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 13:23:42 +0000
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Status: RO

I'd love to help.  But without the beginning of the sentence, I don't have enough context to decide.

Gia

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> 

> 
> I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile literature, 
> and where better to find it than here? 
> 
> I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose native 
> language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come through a 
> bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to jar the 
> reader. 
> 
> The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its appearance, 
> handle, and properties. Obviously "handle" is the word that doesn't ring 
> true here. My co-editor pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me thinks 
> "hand", but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term. 
> 
> If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull you up 
> short, or would it make sense to you? 
> 
> "...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric." 
> 
> "...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric." 
> 
> Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will work in context, 
> because that turns out to be one of many factors in the "handle." 
> 
> --Robin 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10703271946030.29521-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Translation help
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 06:36:56 -0700
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Status: RO

I've seen both terms used, so neither statement strikes me as particularly
jarring.  "Feel" comes off a little more, uhm, casual? colloquial? while
"hand" sounds a bit more inclusive.  Although it may just be my reading of
the words, I'd think of "feel" as more of a texture reference, while "hand"
is texture and drape and heaviness....
Of course, I'm typing all of this while heating my morning tea, so it's all
done pre-caffeine. ;o)  Don't hold me overly accountable if I don't make too
much sense, please!
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 6:53 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Translation help


>
> I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile literature,
> and where better to find it than here?
>
> I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose native
> language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come through a
> bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to jar the
> reader.
>
> The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its appearance,
> handle, and properties. Obviously "handle" is the word that doesn't ring
> true here. My co-editor pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me thinks
> "hand", but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term.
>
> If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull you up
> short, or would it make sense to you?
>
> "...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
> "...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
> Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will work in context,
> because that turns out to be one of many factors in the "handle."
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Translation help
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Status: RO

I've always used "hand" and find it much more specific than "feel,"  
since "hand" does include a sense of how the fabric moves or behaves  
when one handles it as well as how it feels--in fact, for me the  
"handling" aspect is more important than the "feeling" aspect. When I  
talk with other people who sew, "hand" seems to communicate fine.

If you're in doubt, is there room for an explanatory note?

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy, amateur costumer, and occasional copy editor


On Mar 27, 2007, at 9:53 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile  
> literature,
> and where better to find it than here?
>
> I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose  
> native
> language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come  
> through a
> bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to jar the
> reader.
>
> The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its  
> appearance,
> handle, and properties. Obviously "handle" is the word that doesn't  
> ring
> true here. My co-editor pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me  
> thinks
> "hand", but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term.
>
> If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull  
> you up
> short, or would it make sense to you?
>
> "...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
> "...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
> Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will work in  
> context,
> because that turns out to be one of many factors in the "handle."
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Status: RO

Both would work for me. I like hand better, but as you said, this is a
self selected audience & feel may be more generally understood. How are
"properties" different from hand and appearance? "Properties such as
hand and appearance" would make more sense to me, but perhaps that's
just because it's out of context.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 9:53 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Translation help


I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile literature,
and where better to find it than here?

I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose native
language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come through
a
bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to jar the
reader.

The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its
appearance,
handle, and properties. Obviously "handle" is the word that doesn't ring
true here. My co-editor pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me
thinks
"hand", but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term.

If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull you up
short, or would it make sense to you?

"...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric."

"...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric."

Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will work in context,
because that turns out to be one of many factors in the "handle."

--Robin

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Or maybe a combination of "texture and draping qualities"? The few
people I've talked to are not familiar with the term hand.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 9:32 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Translation help

I've always used "hand" and find it much more specific than "feel," =20
since "hand" does include a sense of how the fabric moves or behaves =20
when one handles it as well as how it feels--in fact, for me the =20
"handling" aspect is more important than the "feeling" aspect. When I =20
talk with other people who sew, "hand" seems to communicate fine.

If you're in doubt, is there room for an explanatory note?

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy, amateur costumer, and occasional copy editor


On Mar 27, 2007, at 9:53 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile =20
> literature,
> and where better to find it than here?
>
> I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose =20
> native
> language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come =20
> through a
> bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to jar the
> reader.
>
> The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its =20
> appearance,
> handle, and properties. Obviously "handle" is the word that doesn't =20
> ring
> true here. My co-editor pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me =20
> thinks
> "hand", but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term.
>
> If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull =20
> you up
> short, or would it make sense to you?
>
> "...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
> "...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
> Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will work in =20
> context,
> because that turns out to be one of many factors in the "handle."
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

I understand where Suzi is coming from. I'd say 'drape' if texture is
not the issue.

Kate
609-570-3584

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 9:53 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Translation help


I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile literature,
and where better to find it than here?

I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose native
language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come through
a
bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to jar the
reader.

The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its
appearance,
handle, and properties. Obviously "handle" is the word that doesn't ring
true here. My co-editor pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me
thinks
"hand", but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term.

If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull you up
short, or would it make sense to you?

"...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric."

"...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric."

Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will work in context,
because that turns out to be one of many factors in the "handle."

--Robin

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Status: RO

At 7:46 AM -0600 3/28/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull you up
>short, or would it make sense to you?
>
>"...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
>"...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
>Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will work in context,
>because that turns out to be one of many factors in the "handle."

Hand is acceptable, USA usage...
ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Status: RO

Another vote for the "hand" version. "Hand" conveys a lot more than
"feel"-- I guess I think of "feel" as being part of the qualities you
get from "hand"!

Astrida
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Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 09:32:41 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Translation help
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Status: RO


Hmm. It appears "hand" might be too much of an American term. Thank
goodness for this list.

And yes, I think "feel" is too narrow to capture the idea of drape, which
is something I couldn't put my finger on -- thanks to those who mentioned
it, as now I have something to approach the authors with

Patty asked about "properties"; the authors discuss a large number of
factors that help define the effect of a textile, so I read this word as a
catch-all term for everything else about the fabric other than how it
looks and feels, e.g. warmth, durability, etc. But I will query and see
whether that's what they mean, or whether all the properties they address
can be summed up in appearance and drape/texture.

A radical thought: If I used the original word, "handle," would anyone
here *not* understand it? Would it seem like bad English usage (which is a
major concern here)? It struck both my English co-editor and me as a
translation problem.

The two appearances of the word:

"We hope that [this method of analysis] may provide information that will
increase our knowledge about the properties, handle, and appearance of a
finished fabric."

"Both the amount of twist and the twist combination in warp and weft are
very important for the appearance of a fabric and also for the fabric's
handle and properties."

I am very tempted to put "drape and texture" in for the latter pair of
adjectives, and may ask the authors' permission on that.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Translation help
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 28/03/2007 14:47:50 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

>I  need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile  literature,
>and where better to find it than here?
>
>I'm  editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose  native
>language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come  through a
>bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to  jar the
>reader.
>
>The author is listing characteristics of  fabric, including its appearance,
>handle, and properties. Obviously  "handle" is the word that doesn't ring
>true here. My co-editor  pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me thinks
>"hand", but perhaps  that is not so well-understood a term.
>
>If you read either of  these phrases in an article, would it pull you up
>short, or would it  make sense to you?
>
>"...the properties, hand, and appearance of  a finished fabric."
>
>"...the properties, feel, and appearance of  a finished fabric."
>
>Other suggestions welcome. I don't think  "texture" will work in context,
>because that turns out to be one of  many factors in the "handle."
>
>--Robin


>I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile  literature,
>and where better to find it than here?
>
>I'm  editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose  native
>language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come  through a
>bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to  jar the
>reader.
>
>The author is listing characteristics of  fabric, including its appearance,
>handle, and properties. Obviously  "handle" is the word that doesn't ring
>true here. My co-editor pencilled  in "feel." The fabric-user in me thinks
>"hand", but perhaps that is not  so well-understood a term.
>
>If you read either of these phrases in  an article, would it pull you up
>short, or would it make sense to  you?
>
>"...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished  fabric."
>
>"...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished  fabric."
>
>Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will  work in context,
>because that turns out to be one of many factors in the  "handle."
>
>--Robin
 
 
the first one.
 
I was going to suggest hand anyway as the meaning - because it's  a more 
specifically fabric term to mean the drape, feel, hang, etc of the cloth,  ie the 
way it handles.
 
feel wouldn't make sense to me in a fabric  sense.



   
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Status: RO


Well, "hand" is absolutely the correct word.  But who is the audience? 
If this will be in _Medieval Clothing & Textiles_, I'd say that anyone 
reading it who doesn't understand "hand" must soon learn it.  On the 
other hand, if we're talking publication in a general interest magazine, 
  perhaps the phrase should be "appearance and handling qualities".  On 
the gripping hand, if this is going into a sewing or craft magazine, use 
"hand", the readers will know it.

See you Friday!

Mary

Robin said:
> 
> I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile literature,
> and where better to find it than here?
>
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Status: RO

I am not familiar with the other use of handle, so to me it just seemed
"bad English".

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 11:33 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Translation help


Hmm. It appears "hand" might be too much of an American term. Thank
goodness for this list.

And yes, I think "feel" is too narrow to capture the idea of drape,
which
is something I couldn't put my finger on -- thanks to those who
mentioned
it, as now I have something to approach the authors with

Patty asked about "properties"; the authors discuss a large number of
factors that help define the effect of a textile, so I read this word as
a
catch-all term for everything else about the fabric other than how it
looks and feels, e.g. warmth, durability, etc. But I will query and see
whether that's what they mean, or whether all the properties they
address
can be summed up in appearance and drape/texture.

A radical thought: If I used the original word, "handle," would anyone
here *not* understand it? Would it seem like bad English usage (which is
a
major concern here)? It struck both my English co-editor and me as a
translation problem.

The two appearances of the word:

"We hope that [this method of analysis] may provide information that
will
increase our knowledge about the properties, handle, and appearance of a
finished fabric."

"Both the amount of twist and the twist combination in warp and weft are
very important for the appearance of a fabric and also for the fabric's
handle and properties."

I am very tempted to put "drape and texture" in for the latter pair of
adjectives, and may ask the authors' permission on that.

--Robin


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Status: RO

"Handle" would be comprehensible, but it would give pause to any  
native reader of English and, even after the reader had come to terms  
with it, would seem quaint and awkward.

My opinion, anyway!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer (and sometime copy editor)

On Mar 28, 2007, at 11:32 AM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> Hmm. It appears "hand" might be too much of an American term. Thank
> goodness for this list.
>
> And yes, I think "feel" is too narrow to capture the idea of drape,  
> which
> is something I couldn't put my finger on -- thanks to those who  
> mentioned
> it, as now I have something to approach the authors with
>
> Patty asked about "properties"; the authors discuss a large number of
> factors that help define the effect of a textile, so I read this  
> word as a
> catch-all term for everything else about the fabric other than how it
> looks and feels, e.g. warmth, durability, etc. But I will query and  
> see
> whether that's what they mean, or whether all the properties they  
> address
> can be summed up in appearance and drape/texture.
>
> A radical thought: If I used the original word, "handle," would anyone
> here *not* understand it? Would it seem like bad English usage  
> (which is a
> major concern here)? It struck both my English co-editor and me as a
> translation problem.
>
> The two appearances of the word:
>
> "We hope that [this method of analysis] may provide information  
> that will
> increase our knowledge about the properties, handle, and appearance  
> of a
> finished fabric."
>
> "Both the amount of twist and the twist combination in warp and  
> weft are
> very important for the appearance of a fabric and also for the  
> fabric's
> handle and properties."
>
> I am very tempted to put "drape and texture" in for the latter pair of
> adjectives, and may ask the authors' permission on that.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO


On Wed, 28 Mar 2007, M + D (Mary Piero Carey+Doug Piero Carey) wrote:

> Well, "hand" is absolutely the correct word.  But who is the audience?  
> If this will be in _Medieval Clothing & Textiles_, I'd say that anyone
> reading it who doesn't understand "hand" must soon learn it.

It is indeed for MC&T, but from what Suzi says, "hand" is not used in
British English, which is the language of a good chunk of our reading
audience. Plus, the Scandinavian authors of the article have translated it
into British English, so I have to stay consistent with that. All those
"-ise" and "-our" endings... (The footnotes are a nightmare, full of
sources in Swedish, Danish, Finnish, and Norwegian.)

Thanks to Patty and Marie for confirming my gut response to "handle."

At this point I am resolved to query the author about either using the
American "hand" or rephrasing entirely.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Translation help
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Status: RO

Well, there's no definition for the way we use the word "hand" when  
referring to textiles, in the regular dictionary. So maybe you need to define it  in 
the sentence, like "the feel and drape [or hand] of the fabric."
 
It's a bit wordy...but then you can just use "hand"  thereafter.



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Translation help
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Status: RO

At 16:32 28/03/2007, you wrote:

>Hmm. It appears "hand" might be too much of an American term. Thank
>goodness for this list.
>
>And yes, I think "feel" is too narrow to capture the idea of drape, which
>is something I couldn't put my finger on -- thanks to those who mentioned
>it, as now I have something to approach the authors with
>
>Patty asked about "properties"; the authors discuss a large number of
>factors that help define the effect of a textile, so I read this word as a
>catch-all term for everything else about the fabric other than how it
>looks and feels, e.g. warmth, durability, etc. But I will query and see
>whether that's what they mean, or whether all the properties they address
>can be summed up in appearance and drape/texture.
>
>A radical thought: If I used the original word, "handle," would anyone
>here *not* understand it? Would it seem like bad English usage (which is a
>major concern here)? It struck both my English co-editor and me as a
>translation problem.
>
>The two appearances of the word:
>
>"We hope that [this method of analysis] may provide information that will
>increase our knowledge about the properties, handle, and appearance of a
>finished fabric."
>
>"Both the amount of twist and the twist combination in warp and weft are
>very important for the appearance of a fabric and also for the fabric's
>handle and properties."
>
>I am very tempted to put "drape and texture" in for the latter pair of
>adjectives, and may ask the authors' permission on that.
>
>--Robin


Would using "handling" instead of "handle" help?

Suzi

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Status: RO


Thanks, all. You've given me some good words/ideas to work with. I've
phrased a query to the authors and proposed a couple of write-arounds.


==========================================================
Robin Netherton // Editor at Large
robin@nightowl.net
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1666
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Translation help
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 16:52:20 +0000
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Status: RO

Thank you for the longer versions!

 "We hope that [this method of analysis] may provide information that will 
> increase our knowledge about the properties, handle, and appearance of a 
> finished fabric." 
> 
Might I suggest "characteristics, texture and appearance of a finished fabric."?


"Both the amount of twist and the twist combination in warp and weft are 
> very important for the appearance of a fabric and also for the fabric's 
> handle and properties." 

And in this sentence, could I suggest using "drape, handle and typical construction characteristics."  

I think the use of "characteristics" is more defining and seems (to me) 'guide' the impressions more toward the texture line of thinking.  I think your idea of adding "drape" in the following sentence, it seems logical.

I hope this helps!  
Gia

-------- Original message -------------- 
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> 

> 
> Hmm. It appears "hand" might be too much of an American term. Thank 
> goodness for this list. 
> 
> And yes, I think "feel" is too narrow to capture the idea of drape, which 
> is something I couldn't put my finger on -- thanks to those who mentioned 
> it, as now I have something to approach the authors with 
> 
> Patty asked about "properties"; the authors discuss a large number of 
> factors that help define the effect of a textile, so I read this word as a 
> catch-all term for everything else about the fabric other than how it 
> looks and feels, e.g. warmth, durability, etc. But I will query and see 
> whether that's what they mean, or whether all the properties they address 
> can be summed up in appearance and drape/texture. 
> 
> A radical thought: If I used the original word, "handle," would anyone 
> here *not* understand it? Would it seem like bad English usage (which is a 
> major concern here)? It struck both my English co-editor and me as a 
> translation problem. 
> 
> The two appearances of the word: 
> 
> "We hope that [this method of analysis] may provide information that will 
> increase our knowledge about the properties, handle, and appearance of a 
> finished fabric." 
> 
> "Both the amount of twist and the twist combination in warp and weft are 
> very important for the appearance of a fabric and also for the fabric's 
> handle and properties." 
> 
> I am very tempted to put "drape and texture" in for the latter pair of 
> adjectives, and may ask the authors' permission on that. 
> 
> --Robin 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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Status: RO

> Has anyone heard when these are coming? I pre-ordered, but seem to
recall
> some people saying they had already received theirs?
> Sharon C.
>
>
>
I think those who mentioned they had gotten their copies had actually
gotten
copies of the first printing.  According to Ian Stevens of David Brown
books, they are supposed to get their shipment on 1 April.  Sounds like
a
bad day for something as important as this doesn't it?
<snip>
Wanda
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..
Actually, Michael Shamansky, Booksellers have already received the
copies of the second edition.  I received mine a couple of weeks ago. 
They are still offering free shipping until March 31.

Catherine


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Status: RO

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 9:53 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Translation help


>I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile literature,
and where better >to find it than here?

>I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose native
language is not 
>English. Some of the terms and idioms have come through a bit odd, and
part of my job is >to smooth it out so as not to jar the reader.

>The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its
appearance, handle, and 
>properties. Obviously "handle" is the word that doesn't ring true here.
My co-editor 
>pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me thinks "hand", but perhaps
that is not so 
>well-understood a term.


Hmm, may this be an article by Ulla Mannering and Marianne Vedeler by
any chance?

Eva, who hasn't forgot about writing an article herself. It's just that
I'm extremely busy writing applications for research funding until the
end of April.



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Status: RO

Ages ago I made an 1850s dress, crinoline and corset.  If I can still 
fit into it, I am thinking of wearing it for a high school presentation 
I am giving.  I would like all the correct underpinnings, so I need to 
make some drawers, I know.  I can't remember if in this period women 
wore camisoles under their corsets or corset covers over them.  I'm 
sure there are some experts out there.


Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Translation help
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Status: RO

 


The two  appearances of the word:
>
>"We hope that [this method of  analysis] may provide information that will
>increase our knowledge  about the properties, handle, and appearance of a
>finished  fabric."
>
>"Both the amount of twist and the twist combination in  warp and weft are
>very important for the appearance of a fabric and  also for the fabric's
>handle and properties."
>
>I am very  tempted to put "drape and texture" in for the latter pair  of
>adjectives, and may ask the authors' permission on  that.
>
>--Robin


Would using "handling" instead of  "handle" help?

Suzi




This is exactly what I was thinking.  This will put it into more  acceptable 
and understandable English.
 
Donna Scaarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com



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Status: RO

Sylvia, you'll find a free split drawers pattern in the Compendium section 
of the site in my signature.  Drawers for the 1850s are fairly optional; 
once the hoop comes it, they become a bit more common.  Corset covers aren't 
as common at this point, unless you're wearing an unlined sheer dress.  They 
become much, much more common in the later Victorian era.  A chemise under 
the corset is vital, though.

Regards,
Elizabeth
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: 1850s Costume
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Status: RO

Are you talking about a full length chemise, as opposed to a camisole?

On Mar 28, 2007, at 1:40 PM, Elizabeth Clark wrote:

> Sylvia, you'll find a free split drawers pattern in the Compendium 
> section of the site in my signature.  Drawers for the 1850s are fairly 
> optional; once the hoop comes it, they become a bit more common.  
> Corset covers aren't as common at this point, unless you're wearing an 
> unlined sheer dress.  They become much, much more common in the later 
> Victorian era.  A chemise under the corset is vital, though.
>
> Regards,
> Elizabeth
> http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get a FREE Web site, company branded e-mail and more from Microsoft 
> Office Live! 
> http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/mcrssaub0050001411mrt/direct/01/
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: translation help
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Status: RO

"Hand" is what I've always said... but I'm a fifty-something American  
Mid-Westerner.  (Is your co-editor English?)  OTOH, just a few years  
ago I took a class on Care & Storage of Museum Textiles (approximate  
title) and we all used the word "hand" when speaking of textile  
analysis, as you have in the first example.  The second example would  
read well enough but I would probably spend a few seconds wondering  
why the author didn't say "hand".

Just my opinion, of course!
Suzanne

>
> Subject: [h-cost] Translation help
>
>
> I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile  
> literature,
> and where better to find it than here?
>
> I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose  
> native
> language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come  
> through a
> bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to jar the
> reader.
>
> The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its  
> appearance,
> handle, and properties. Obviously "handle" is the word that doesn't  
> ring
> true here. My co-editor pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me  
> thinks
> "hand", but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term.
>
> If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull  
> you up
> short, or would it make sense to you?
>
> "...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
> "...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
> Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will work in  
> context,
> because that turns out to be one of many factors in the "handle."
>
> --Robin

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Status: RO

Good morning all, I'm making a pair of pin on sleeves in imitation of the 
peasants in the DaCosta Hours http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/work/ and thinking 
about entering them in a competition in 2 weeks time (the theme is 'arms') 
but I'm debating on the seam treatment or whether to line them. I'm not 
aware of any extant pin on sleeves (it was really a peasant fashion so I 
wouldn't be surprised if none had survived) but I thought I would ask here 
just in case. I'm willing to extrapolate from other sources such as higher 
class lace on sleeves or later period pin on oversleeves. Any and all 
sources that can give me a clue as to how to deal with the seams and lining 
issue are welcome.
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/





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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Translation help
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In a message dated 28/03/2007 17:53:59 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Hmm. It  appears "hand" might be too much of an American term. Thank
goodness for  this list.


It's traditional British too, but tends to be used by people with some  
knowledge of tailoring (rather than just dressmaking).
 
I was taught about it by my Nana who trained as a tailor in the  30s



   
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From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1850s costume
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Status: RO

Here are some images from 1858/1859 Godey's Lady's Book that should help 
answer the question:

- a chemise drawing that states "many persons dislike to have any 
fullness under their corsets around the waist":
http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/godey/images/s5906548.jpg

and one of drawers:
http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/godey/images/s5911396.jpg

and one 'all-in-one' called the nonpareil:
http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/godey/images/glb8-58p167.jpeg

- Hope

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> Ages ago I made an 1850s dress, crinoline and corset.  If I can still 
> fit into it, I am thinking of wearing it for a high school 
> presentation I am giving.  I would like all the correct underpinnings, 
> so I need to make some drawers, I know.  I can't remember if in this 
> period women wore camisoles under their corsets or corset covers over 
> them.  I'm sure there are some experts out there.

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Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 13:27:36 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: 1850s Costume
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Status: RO

Most assuredly.  I prefer mine mid-calf length.

Joan

At 01:01 PM 3/28/2007, you wrote:
>Are you talking about a full length chemise, as opposed to a camisole?
>
>On Mar 28, 2007, at 1:40 PM, Elizabeth Clark wrote:
>
>>Sylvia, you'll find a free split drawers pattern in the Compendium 
>>section of the site in my signature.  Drawers for the 1850s are 
>>fairly optional; once the hoop comes it, they become a bit more common.
>>Corset covers aren't as common at this point, unless you're wearing 
>>an unlined sheer dress.  They become much, much more common in the 
>>later Victorian era.  A chemise under the corset is vital, though.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Elizabeth
>>http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com
>>
>>_________________________________________________________________
>>Get a FREE Web site, company branded e-mail and more from Microsoft 
>>Office Live! http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/mcrssaub0050001411mrt/direct/01/
>>
>>_______________________________________________
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>
>_______________________________________________
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Status: RO


Suzi and Donna wondered:

> Would using "handling" instead of "handle" help?

To me, "handling" is what you do to the fabric, the emphasis being on the
person. I'm looking for a characteristic of the fabric itself, which is
really how it feels and acts when someone is handling it.

In any case, thanks to the help here, I think I've gotten a sufficient
write-around, which now will await author approval.

--Robin

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Translation help
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 20:22:10 -0400
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Status: RO

On Tuesday 27 March 2007 9:53 pm, Robin Netherton wrote:
[snip]

> The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its appearance,
> handle, and properties. Obviously "handle" is the word that doesn't ring
> true here. My co-editor pencilled in "feel." The fabric-user in me thinks
> "hand", but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term.
>
> If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull you up
> short, or would it make sense to you?
>
> "...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
> "...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric."
>
> Other suggestions welcome. I don't think "texture" will work in context,
> because that turns out to be one of many factors in the "handle."

Here's another comment from another American.

I think of "hand" as a combination of texture and thickness.  It can give you 
information about how the fabric is likely to drape, but does not include 
information about "drape" per se.

I've never heard the term "feel" used in this context before, but in the 
context you suggest above I would understand it as being synonymous with what 
I think of as "hand."

I would not use the word "handle" here.  To me, "handle" is a protuberance 
used to grasp an object, and has nothing to do with fabric and its 
properties.  It may well be used to describe fabric somewhere, but I doubt 
that such a usage has majority status among English speakers, and believe 
that many English-speaking readers would find it confusing and distracting.

My suggestions would be either to rewrite the sentence entirely or to use the 
word "feel" as your colleague suggested.  Either would be acceptable though 
the latter arguably is closer to what the author actually wrote.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


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Subject: [h-cost] Pictoral source
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Status: RO

This may be an odd question, but is anyone aware of a
pictoral guide or compilation of fabric designs and
colors appropriate for Elizabethan era clothing?

I am having a horrible time finding fabric to make a
new jerkin for my son to wear this summer. I wanted to
have something in cream or off white that he could
wear under the burgundy/gold I made for last year. My
hope is to also find something green to make him a
second suit so he can trade off. 

I just spent the whole day running around to just
about every fabric store in Columbus, Ohio. Frustrated
is putting it mildly. Does no one carry anything but
quilting fabrics anymore? I knew things were bad in my
local shops, but we are so far out in the country I
really didn't expect too much. My local choices are
Wal-Mart and JoAnn's.

I want to ask my mother, who lives in the Washington,
DC area to go to E St. Fabrics for me, but I can't
explain what I want so that she can understand. If I
had a book with pictures she could look at it would
make life much easier. She is not comfortable with
looking at things on the web, so it would need to be a
print source.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
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Status: RO

I am trying to find out the who started the fashion trend of the 1960s =
long fringed jackets or shirts for musicians.  I am taking about the =
ones like were worn by Jimi Hendrix or Judas in Jesus Christ Superstar =
(movie). =20

I thought the fashion trend was in the early 1970s, but recently saw on =
the music video TV station, The Tube, a video with Hendrix wearing a =
beaded fringed jacket. The video may have been from Woodstock.  Hendrix =
died in 1970, so it must that time or before if it was him who started =
the trend.  This fringe started the challenge among my music trivia =
buffs in my family to find out who was the first rock stars to wear the =
long-fringed clothing for men.=20

I always remember the groups Jackson 5, the Osmonds, and Temptations =
wearing the long fringe on jumpsuits.   But I don't recall which one of =
the groups had fringe first on jumpsuits.

LOL, one of my college students is heavily into the 60s/70s fringe =
trends and is trying to find the answers too. =20

BTW, The Tube is on digital cable through Comcast.  I am hooked on =
watching this station.  It shows rock videos from the 1960s to present =
day.  Some of the videos I haven't seen since they were originally on TV =
from the 60s-80s.  For those who remember the TV rock show "In Concert," =
The Tube shows individual songs from the series.  This was a series on =
TV on Friday nights in the mid 1970s.  It aired originally in a time =
slot before "The Midnight Special."  VH1 on digital TV is also showing =
some of the entire "In Concert" shows. =20

In my college class we cover music, film, and tv stars that influence =
fashion from the 1950s-1970s.  We cover a decade a week and I have to =
stop at the 1970s.  Ending at this decade is good since most of my =
students were born in the mid to late 1980s and they remember their =
parents wearing the 1980s fashions.  One student said last week, that =
she wished she had been a teenager in the 1970s.  She said that she =
would have loved to have gone to discos.  I have a student who was born =
in the early 70s and wears a afro today.  She told the other student, =
"No you don't.  I remember my parents going disco dancing." =20

I will be covering the 1950s-1970s in my April's classes.  If you would =
like to tell who were your fashion icons during this time frame, please =
let me know and what memories you have of these specific stars' =
fashions.  I'll compile a list and send it back to h-costume.=20

FYI, June 20, I will be spending my 50th birthday at our area's annual =
Doobie Brothers concert.  This concert is always fun!  The venue holds =
concerts outside just like the ones in the 1970s.  You bring your lawn =
chair or blankets and watch the show.  You can sit anywhere in the =
field, and the first ones in line, can get right in front of the stage.  =
My brothers, sister, and best friend from high school are flying in to =
go to the concert with us.  My husband, kids, and last year my =
grandkids, went to the show.  LOL, my grandbabies love the Doobie =
Brothers and dance the entire show.  This annual concert in Richmond, VA =
is always a benefit the Vietnam Veterans Association.   The best thing =
about the concerts is that you pay prices for their concerts range from =
$15-40.  Here is the venue's website, =
http://innsbrookafterhours.com/content//index.php?option=3Dcom_gigcal&Ite=
mid=3D26 .  They have a sister venue that holds concerts like these in =
the DC area, Loudon County Music Festival, near Dulles Airport, =
http://liveatbelmont.com/J2007/index.php?option=3Dcom_gigcal&Itemid=3D27 =
.  =20
  =20
Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Subject: [h-cost] Busby Berkeley Films
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Status: RO

Last week during my class I showed a clip of the film "Gold Diggers of =
1933" during my 1930s session.  The last song in the film shows the =
fashions and mentality of the Great Depression wonderfully!   My student =
that majors in dance and choreographer, fell in love with Busby =
Berkeley's choreography.  I loaned her my Busby Berkley biography book.  =
Just so happens, the book has a double-spread photo of the last scene in =
the film.  She went to her D&C professor and obtained permission to do =
her senior thesis about Busby Berkeley.  I have loaned her my Gold =
Diggers video.  But she wants to know if there is a place on the web =
that she can purchase more of his films.  Does anyone know of a website =
that sells BB films on video or DVD? =20

LOL!  This student had not seen BB's work before my 1930s session.  When =
she saw the Gold Diggers film, her eyes danced with joy!  As a child, I =
loved watching BB films for the costumes, set design, and choreography's =
illusion.  He was a master at his craft!

This same student is also writing a paper about the Castles, a popular =
dancing couple from the 1910s.  I have several Ladies' Home Journal =
magazines from the time period, that show the Castles demonstrating the =
latest dance craze.  The illustrations are in color and show =
step-by-step how to do the dances.   I have planned for years to animate =
these illustrations and put them online.  So this gives me that extra =
push to put them online.  The Castles' costumes are beautiful and =
Irene's dresses flow so gracefully.

Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 02:49:11 -0400
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

The fashion definitely started in the '60's, part of the hippie Native 
American stuff.  The earliest fringed jackets I can remember in a band is on 
one or two of the members of Buffalo Springfield.  They broke up in '68. 
There's a picture here:
http://www.greene.k12.ia.us/wpdevelopment/Abby%20Web/NeilYoungAbby/p5.html
Roger Daltrey from the Who also wore them a lot, as early as the late '60's; 
Jefferson Airplane, other psychelic bands, too.  The style went more 
mainstream in the '70's.  You can also look for pictures from "Hair".
Have you discovered VH1 Classic yet?
             -Helen/Aidan 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
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Status: RO

Helen,

VH1Classic is where I have seen some of the "In Concert" shows.  I love 
watching the big hair band videos on that station too.  It reminds me when 
my oldest son was hooked on their music and played the music over and over. 
His 18 mo. old daughter will only go to sleep hearing big hair band music.

Thank you for the Buffalo Springfield link and info about the fringe. Last 
week, I did see a video on The Tube of the Who and Roger wearing a fringed 
jacket.  My only complaint about Tube is that they don't show the date of 
the video.  So the video could be from a span of their career.  You have to 
judge the time frame from their fashions.  On the other hand, the Music 
Choice stations show the date of the song.  But we have seen some errors on 
their music trivia.

I saw on the Tube a video of The Animals, "The House of the Rising Sun."  I 
was tickled pink...it was the first time I have seen the song performed by 
them.  Their fashions were wonderful!  It looked like the video was from a 
show like American Bandstand but it was filmed more like a modern video.  I 
wish I had taped it.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
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Status: RO

At 07:49 29/03/2007, you wrote:
>The fashion definitely started in the '60's, part of the hippie 
>Native American stuff.  The earliest fringed jackets I can remember 
>in a band is on one or two of the members of Buffalo 
>Springfield.  They broke up in '68. There's a picture here:
>http://www.greene.k12.ia.us/wpdevelopment/Abby%20Web/NeilYoungAbby/p5.html
>Roger Daltrey from the Who also wore them a lot, as early as the 
>late '60's; Jefferson Airplane, other psychelic bands, too.  The 
>style went more mainstream in the '70's.  You can also look for 
>pictures from "Hair".
>Have you discovered VH1 Classic yet?
>             -Helen/Aidan

When I first met my DH, he had a fringed jacket, across the back 
only, in butter soft suede - it was quite beautiful. That was in 
1970, but he had it before that. He says he remembers the Teddy boys 
"dressing like cowboys" in the 50's, but that is anecdotal, and he 
was quite young then, so I don't know how accurate he is - usually 
his memories are spot on.

Suzi 

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Status: RO


> The fashion definitely started in the '60's, part of the hippie Native
> American stuff.  (snip)

Here's some pics from Woodstock, 1969, both Jimi Hendrix and Roger Daltrey 
are wearing fringed outfits.
http://www.woodstock69.com/file6.htm
I grew up in the San Francisco Bay area and I seem to remember fringe on 
jackets, especially leather "Davy Crockett" type jackets on the Haight 
Ashbury crowd in 1966.  I'm looking for pictures of finge pre-1969, but so 
far no luck.

Melusine 

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
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Melusine,

Thank you so much for the link.  Those are the jackets in the videos I saw 
on The Tube.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Other '60's musical shows were Shindig and Hullabaloo.
Sonny and Cher (especially Cher) were also prone to fringe, and they might 
be the earliest, around '65-'66.
                 -Helen/Aidan 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
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Status: RO

> Melusine,
>
> Thank you so much for the link.  Those are the jackets in the videos I saw 
> on The Tube.
>
> Penny Ladnier,

You're welcome, I've been enjoying the trip down memory lane.  I was a 
little young to be directly involved in the Summer of Love, but I remember 
what San Francisco was like in 1966.

Melusine 

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 02:16:24 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I saw the show "The Rolling Stones Rock and Roll Circus" on PBS last 
week.  Daltry and the Who performed.  I seem to recollect Daltry 
wearing a fringed jacket.  The film was made in 1968.

Sylvia

On Mar 29, 2007, at 1:15 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Helen,
>
> VH1Classic is where I have seen some of the "In Concert" shows.  I 
> love watching the big hair band videos on that station too.  It 
> reminds me when my oldest son was hooked on their music and played the 
> music over and over. His 18 mo. old daughter will only go to sleep 
> hearing big hair band music.
>
> Thank you for the Buffalo Springfield link and info about the fringe. 
> Last week, I did see a video on The Tube of the Who and Roger wearing 
> a fringed jacket.  My only complaint about Tube is that they don't 
> show the date of the video.  So the video could be from a span of 
> their career.  You have to judge the time frame from their fashions.  
> On the other hand, the Music Choice stations show the date of the 
> song.  But we have seen some errors on their music trivia.
>
> I saw on the Tube a video of The Animals, "The House of the Rising 
> Sun."  I was tickled pink...it was the first time I have seen the song 
> performed by them.  Their fashions were wonderful!  It looked like the 
> video was from a show like American Bandstand but it was filmed more 
> like a modern video.  I wish I had taped it.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 04:37:59 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Status: RO

My students have been asking some really good questions.  These =
questions I only know the answers from personal experience.  I lived in =
Mississippi at the time and do not know if we were really far behind =
fashion or not.  If you answer these questions, please let me know your =
location and the app. year you remember these fashions were worn to =
public elementary through high school:

1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured=20
2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.  =
Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed

1. I recall in seventh grade, 1969-70, on the bus to school, I basted =
girls' skirt hems up...on the way home I let the hems out.  Needless to =
say, I was fast at hemming.  By 1972/73, we could wear very short baby =
doll dresses with bloomers underneath.

2. About 1970-71 (school year), we could wear pants suits similar to the =
Partridge Family to school.  The tunic length was measured.  Remember =
the Susan Dey patterns? By spring that evolved to the pants under a =
short dress (ironically in fashion now YUCK!) By autumn 1971, we could =
wear blue jeans and hip-huggers.

3. Fall 1971 guy could wear long hair but no facial hair.

4. 74/75 school year, guys could wear facial hair.=20

I remember vividly specifics about when these became fashionable in our =
area.  I sewed around the clock for my sisters and myself to stay on top =
of fashion.  My senior year, the boys @ school raked me over the coals =
for being the first to wear a midi shirt.  I was so hurt that I went =
home and cut it up with scissors.  A few years ago, a girl friend for =
that school found my website.  She wrote that she always knew that  I =
would go into fashion career because she loved that skirt.  She =
described the skirt style and print of fabric perfectly 25 years later.  =
I still have the pattern and wish I had the fabric!=20
=20
Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 04:43:31 -0400
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Status: RO

Sylvia,

Last week must have been Stones week.  I saw a BBC-America documentary about 
the Stones but it wasn't a concert.  It was about their career until the 
late 70s.  I didn't see a fringe jacket in that film.  In the PBS show, was 
the fringe beaded?

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Status: RO

Location:  Tyler, Texas, 100 miles east of Dallas, one of the many 
buckles of the Bible Belt.

Penny Ladnier wrote:

>1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured 
>
All through high school, fall 1969-spring 1972.  Skirts were supposed to 
touch the ground when a girl was on her knees.  However, I don't recall 
anyone being asked to kneel to test it.  I think most of our girls 
rolled up their skirts--that made it easier to let them down immediately 
if necessary.  There was one assistant principal particularly concerned 
about whether or not girls wore bras, but that's another story.

>2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.  Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
>
Pantsuits--top matches bottom, often in double knit, were allowed my 
junior year--1970/1971.  Jeans were allowed my senior year--1971/1972.  
My big "rebellion" was wearing jeans to honors assembly and to get my 
valedictorian photo taken for the yearbook.  Okay, so I wasn't much of a 
rebel despite the fact that we WERE the Robert E. Lee Rebels until 
midway into our senior year.  I don't recall hiphuggers being a 
problem.  I had a pair in junior high, even if I couldn't wear them to 
school just because they were pants.

>3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
>
You would have to define long.  Our "Mr. Robert E. Lee" had hair past 
the collar and he got by with it.  About the same time, however, a hair 
court case involving our local junior college went all of the way to the 
Supreme Court, with a ruling in favor of the student.

>4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed
>
"Mr. Robert E. Lee" also had a mustache, which was much envied by many 
of the other senior boys, because they couldn't have sported a 
noticeable mustache if they tried!

Vicki Betts

>  
>


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Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 06:47:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Status: RO

Oh, what a fun (?) trip down memory lane! 

Elementary and Jr. High (60-69) were spent in Vermont.
I remember making my first drop waisted dress for the
6th grade (65-66) dance. I wasn't allowed to hem it as
high as I wanted, nor was I allowed the white go-go
boots. 

I do remember that girls were not allowed to wear
pants to school, even in winter. We did not have
school buses and all winter we would walk around with
wrinkled dresses from stuffing the skirts down the
legs of our snow suits. In the spring there was one
day we were allowed Burmuda shorts, but the hem had to
be just above the knee. I do know that boys were not
allowed to wear jeans to school.

My father was a professor at the University of Vermont
and I was surrounded by grad students all the time. I
remember the fringed leather jackets, love beads,
sandals, dashiki tops, and shopping at the Army Navy
surplus for bell bottoms.

This is where I got hooked on costume - UVM had a
wonderful Shakespeare Theatre. I remember learning to
knit on huge needles with rug yarn to make mail
shirts. When they were done they were painted with
metallic paint.

In 69 we moved to the Virginia side of DC. I will
never forget my first drive through Georgetown! Talk
about hippie city!

Girls were allowed pant suits in my Junior year
(70-71). Our choir uniforms (Princess style dress over
pants)were made from that horrendous double knit
fabric. Can you say sweat factory?? Double knit under
stage lights - not pretty!

Boys were allowed long hair, but facial hair wasn't
allowed until 71-72. I remember my husband with huge
mutton chop sideburns that skated on the edge of the
rules because there was a gap of about 4 inches over
his chin. Senior year he filled in the gap and added a
mustache which has stayed ever since. The beard comes
and goes, but the 'stache is forever.

I remember spending the summer before college sewing
dresses and jumpers that I never wore. College was
jeans and smock tops. Take that back, I did wear a
dress during orientation week. Chancellor's Tea we had
to wear a dress with stockings and gloves. Imagine
stockings and gloves in the humidity of a Virginia
summer!

Ah, well. Hope that helps.

Rebecca

--- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:

> If you answer these
> questions, please let me know your location and the
> app. year you remember these fashions were worn to
> public elementary through high school:
> 
> 1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured 
> 2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear
> pants to school.  Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
> 3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
> 4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 09:51:12 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busby Berkeley Films
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Status: RO

Wasn't there a Fred Astaire film about Vernon and Irene Castle?
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 2:31 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Busby Berkeley Films


Last week during my class I showed a clip of the film "Gold Diggers of 1933"
during my 1930s session.  The last song in the film shows the fashions and
mentality of the Great Depression wonderfully!   My student that majors in
dance and choreographer, fell in love with Busby Berkeley's choreography.  I
loaned her my Busby Berkley biography book.  Just so happens, the book has a
double-spread photo of the last scene in the film.  She went to her D&C
professor and obtained permission to do her senior thesis about Busby
Berkeley.  I have loaned her my Gold Diggers video.  But she wants to know
if there is a place on the web that she can purchase more of his films.
Does anyone know of a website that sells BB films on video or DVD?

LOL!  This student had not seen BB's work before my 1930s session.  When she
saw the Gold Diggers film, her eyes danced with joy!  As a child, I loved
watching BB films for the costumes, set design, and choreography's illusion.
He was a master at his craft!

This same student is also writing a paper about the Castles, a popular
dancing couple from the 1910s.  I have several Ladies' Home Journal
magazines from the time period, that show the Castles demonstrating the
latest dance craze.  The illustrations are in color and show step-by-step
how to do the dances.   I have planned for years to animate these
illustrations and put them online.  So this gives me that extra push to put
them online.  The Castles' costumes are beautiful and Irene's dresses flow
so gracefully.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com

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Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 10:01:29 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pictoral source
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Status: RO

Try the remnant table and the upholstery section at JoAnnes. The damasks and
the velvets are good. Also brocades. You can't go wrong with a velveteen, an
upholstery  velvet( make sure it doesn't have a plasticized back, and stay
away from the modern acetate velvets that they sell for dresses) or  an
antique satin (back it so it has body).

Pictoral sources-- trythe web, print it in color and mail it. There are tons
of sources.
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe unlock'd by Janet Arnold has a few pics in color.
Most of the other sources would be about Elizabeth I and the Elizabethan
era -- try the Library.

Hope this helps.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 1:41 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Pictoral source


This may be an odd question, but is anyone aware of a
pictoral guide or compilation of fabric designs and
colors appropriate for Elizabethan era clothing?

I am having a horrible time finding fabric to make a
new jerkin for my son to wear this summer. I wanted to
have something in cream or off white that he could
wear under the burgundy/gold I made for last year. My
hope is to also find something green to make him a
second suit so he can trade off.

I just spent the whole day running around to just
about every fabric store in Columbus, Ohio. Frustrated
is putting it mildly. Does no one carry anything but
quilting fabrics anymore? I knew things were bad in my
local shops, but we are so far out in the country I
really didn't expect too much. My local choices are
Wal-Mart and JoAnn's.

I want to ask my mother, who lives in the Washington,
DC area to go to E St. Fabrics for me, but I can't
explain what I want so that she can understand. If I
had a book with pictures she could look at it would
make life much easier. She is not comfortable with
looking at things on the web, so it would need to be a
print source.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds
and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Status: RO

Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:

> My students have been asking some really good questions.  These  =20
> questions I only know the answers from personal experience.  I lived =20
>  in Mississippi at the time and do not know if we were really far  =20
> behind fashion or not.  If you answer these questions, please let me =20
>  know your location and the app. year you remember these fashions  =20
> were worn to public elementary through high school:

Knox Co., TN -- High School 1967-1971

>
> 1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured

At one time, I seem to remember that the skirt had to touch the floor =20
if you knelt, but by the time I graduated, IIRC, they had to be =20
fingertip length ...

> 2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.

nope.  not even coulottes.

> Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
> 3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair

yes

> 4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed

I think so

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Status: RO

Hi Rebecca, have you considered purchasing fabric online?  Most of the
places now will do swatching.  I use the following all the time:

http://www.denverfabrics.com/
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/ (you do not have to be a member)
http://www.designerfabrics.to/shop/scripts/
Even if you don't want to buy like this, you could probably direct your mom
to some examples....

I don't know of any books which will "put it all together" for your mom to
look at - especially in the area of fabric weaves and patterns.  I know
there is something which describes colors, but can't remember it right
now...QEW Unlocked maybe?  But a fairly safe rule is what colors you can get
from "natural dyes".  We use this book to show folks in our group.

http://tinyurl.com/2tgpaz
http://www.amazon.com/Dyers-Garden-Growing-Natural-Fibers/dp/1883010071


Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 10:41 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Pictoral source

This may be an odd question, but is anyone aware of a
pictoral guide or compilation of fabric designs and
colors appropriate for Elizabethan era clothing?

I am having a horrible time finding fabric to make a
new jerkin for my son to wear this summer. I wanted to
have something in cream or off white that he could
wear under the burgundy/gold I made for last year. My
hope is to also find something green to make him a
second suit so he can trade off. 

I just spent the whole day running around to just
about every fabric store in Columbus, Ohio. Frustrated
is putting it mildly. Does no one carry anything but
quilting fabrics anymore? I knew things were bad in my
local shops, but we are so far out in the country I
really didn't expect too much. My local choices are
Wal-Mart and JoAnn's.

I want to ask my mother, who lives in the Washington,
DC area to go to E St. Fabrics for me, but I can't
explain what I want so that she can understand. If I
had a book with pictures she could look at it would
make life much easier. She is not comfortable with
looking at things on the web, so it would need to be a
print source.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds
and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Status: RO

<<My students have been asking some really good questions.   These questions 
I only know the answers from personal experience.  I lived  in Mississippi at 
the time and do not know if we were really far behind fashion  or not.  If you 
answer these questions, please let me know your location  and the app. year 
you remember these fashions were worn to public elementary  through high 
school:>>

Penny: I am a little bit older than you.  In the sixties, girls  weren't 
allowed to have skirts that measured more than 3 inches above the knee  in my 
little town in California.  This odious (?) task was assigned to a  male staff 
member who the students referred to as "Swamp Fox".  He ran  around the corridors 
with a ruler.  We shortened our skirts by rolling them  up at the waist, so 
it was easy, when we saw him coming with his little ruler to  roll our skirts 
down long enough for him to pass.  Even so, my sister was  sent home several 
times to get a longer skirt.  I think she planned it that  way.  There were 
extremes of makeup involving eye liner and white lipstick  which didn't seem to 
matter.  And, of course, the hair towered above  the head in a teased and hair 
sprayed helmet.
 
Boys weren't allowed to wear blue jeans and their hair could not touch  their 
collars in the back.  I remember something about a coach who also  roamed the 
corridors with a pair of scissors looking for long hair to  butcher.  
Teachers could get away with more then.
 
Cheryl Odom
Formerly of San Luis Obispo, California



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Status: RO




If you answer these questions, please let me know your location and the app. 
year you remember these fashions were worn to public elementary through high 
school:
>
>1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured
>2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.  
>Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
>3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
>4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed
>

We moved from Wisconsin to Windsor, Massachusetts for the 1963-65 school 
years while my parents taught at a private school (I remember doing my 
homework by the fireplace during the great blackout of the eastern seaboard 
in 1965).  My siblings and I attended public schools, however.  I remember 
rolling up the waistband of my skirts like the 8th grade girls did, but I 
don't remember anyone checking the lengths, generally we didn't go much more 
than 3-4 inches above the knee.

By the time we moved to Ridgefield, Connecticut for '65-'66 school year, the 
older girls were wearing mini-skirts.  Much to my shock, so were some of 
their mothers!

In 1966 we moved back to Wisconsin and it was back to rolling up my 
waistband again until about '68 or'69, when they finally relaxed most of the 
dress codes and allowed "slacks" ("pants", at least for girls, meant 
underwear).  I remember wearing hip-hugging bell bottoms by about 1970.
My brothers were wearing long hair while we were out east, and at least one 
of them had a mustache and goatee (this would have been his Junior year in 
HS), say 1965.

HTH,
Laurie

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 09:04:06 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Penny,
I graduated from high school in 1964.  None of those things were 
happening that early.  Girls all wore skirts.  Long hair for guys 
wasn't even in fashion yet where I was-- Temple City, CA, a suburb of 
Los Angeles--although since we saw the Beatles on tv earlier that year, 
I'm sure it was starting to be popular elsewhere, colleges at least, if 
not high schools.  I know that for a fact because I enrolled at CU 
Berkeley that fall, and boy, was I in for a surprise.   Saw guys with 
long hair all over campus, along with typical hippie type clothing I'd 
never seen before.   It took me awhile to adjust to the new styles 
myself.  I will never forget flying home for Thanksgiving, wearing my 3 
piece double knit suit with stockings, a girdle and heels on the plane. 
  I think it was the last time I ever wore that suit and a girdle.

Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com

On Mar 29, 2007, at 2:37 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> My students have been asking some really good questions.  These 
> questions I only know the answers from personal experience.  I lived 
> in Mississippi at the time and do not know if we were really far 
> behind fashion or not.  If you answer these questions, please let me 
> know your location and the app. year you remember these fashions were 
> worn to public elementary through high school:
>
> 1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured
> 2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.  
> Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
> 3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
> 4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed
>
> 1. I recall in seventh grade, 1969-70, on the bus to school, I basted 
> girls' skirt hems up...on the way home I let the hems out.  Needless 
> to say, I was fast at hemming.  By 1972/73, we could wear very short 
> baby doll dresses with bloomers underneath.
>
> 2. About 1970-71 (school year), we could wear pants suits similar to 
> the Partridge Family to school.  The tunic length was measured.  
> Remember the Susan Dey patterns? By spring that evolved to the pants 
> under a short dress (ironically in fashion now YUCK!) By autumn 1971, 
> we could wear blue jeans and hip-huggers.
>
> 3. Fall 1971 guy could wear long hair but no facial hair.
>
> 4. 74/75 school year, guys could wear facial hair.
>
> I remember vividly specifics about when these became fashionable in 
> our area.  I sewed around the clock for my sisters and myself to stay 
> on top of fashion.  My senior year, the boys @ school raked me over 
> the coals for being the first to wear a midi shirt.  I was so hurt 
> that I went home and cut it up with scissors.  A few years ago, a girl 
> friend for that school found my website.  She wrote that she always 
> knew that  I would go into fashion career because she loved that 
> skirt.  She described the skirt style and print of fabric perfectly 25 
> years later.  I still have the pattern and wish I had the fabric!
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 09:06:41 -0600
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Status: RO

>1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured=20

I graduated high school in 1968. Our skirts could be no shorter than the wi=
dth of a business envelope above the knee. The principal=20
carried one in his pocket and did random spot checks between classes and at=
 lunch. If your skirt was too short, they pinned strips=20
of obnoxious patterned fabric to the hem of your skirt and you had to wear =
it the rest of the day. Three infractions and you got=20
detention and suspension from extra curricular activities. We were very ade=
pt at rolling them up at the waist and then dropping=20
them down as soon as he turned the corner.=20

>2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.  Pants=
-suits, hiphuggers?

The only girls who could wear pants to school were members of the high scho=
ol band on the days we had a concert or other band=20
activity that required a band uniform.=20=20

>3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair

Boy's hair styles are still pretty short at this time and in this area (Get=
tysburg, PA). Heck - we still had a few guys who wore=20
DA's!

>4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed

No facial hair like mustaches or beards, but a few guys had some awesome si=
deburns.

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2007



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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Chemise 1850s
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Status: RO

Yes, a long chemise, as opposed to a short camisole.  I've not seen the 
short camisoles used until later in the century.  For the 1850s, the most 
common undergarment seems to be a white cotton or white linen chemise, cut 
moderately full through the body, with a short sleeve, and hemmed between 
the mid-knee and mid-calf (personal choice on that--if you tuck a chemise 
into your drawers, it's easier to use the slightly shorter length; if you do 
not use drawers, an upper to mid-calf length is better.)

Regards
Elizabeth Clark
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com

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Status: RO

BB worked on others in the Gold diggers" series

liz young

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Last week during my class I showed a clip of the film "Gold Diggers of 1933" during my 1930s session.  The last song in the film shows the fashions and mentality of the Great Depression wonderfully!   My student that majors in dance and choreographer, fell in love with Busby Berkeley's choreography.  I loaned her my Busby Berkley biography book.  Just so happens, the book has a double-spread photo of the last scene in the film.  She went to her D&C professor and obtained permission to do her senior thesis about Busby Berkeley.  I have loaned her my Gold Diggers video.  But she wants to know if there is a place on the web that she can purchase more of his films.  Does anyone know of a website that sells BB films on video or DVD?  
> 
> LOL!  This student had not seen BB's work before my 1930s session.  When she saw the Gold Diggers film, her eyes danced with joy!  As a child, I loved watching BB films for the costumes, set design, and choreography's illusion.  He was a master at his craft!
> 
> This same student is also writing a paper about the Castles, a popular dancing couple from the 1910s.  I have several Ladies' Home Journal magazines from the time period, that show the Castles demonstrating the latest dance craze.  The illustrations are in color and show step-by-step how to do the dances.   I have planned for years to animate these illustrations and put them online.  So this gives me that extra push to put them online.  The Castles' costumes are beautiful and Irene's dresses flow so gracefully.
> 
> Penny Ladnier, 
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Status: RO


>> 1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured 
>> 2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear
>> pants to school.  Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
>> 3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
>> 4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed
>>     

Center Moriches High School, Long Island, New York.
1971-72:
 - mini skirts OK as long as no more than 3 inches above knee--I don't 
remember any ruler fanatics, though, so that rule was quite often bent
- the first year that girls pants are officially allowed. The policy of 
'slacks but no jeans' was challenged by Linda T., who wore jeans every 
day in protest and who also challenged the policy that barred women from 
taking shop or drafting classes (hoorah for Linda!)
- long hair? sure; side burns? absolutely; mustaches? well they tried...
- fringed jackets: worn by a few boys (and a couple girls) who aspired 
to 'artistic/rebel' status

and another one:
transition from  stockings/garters to pantyhose: 1968 or so

also:
who remembers the Sear catalog "choose your jeans" options: one, two, or 
three inches below the waist--low rider jeans! I remember talking my Mom 
into letting me get a '3 inch' purple corduroy pair! cool.

- Hope

P.S. Hey Rebecca, I left Long Island for Vermont 18 years ago and am now 
at UVM! current craze: ugg boots, short skirts, low jeans...pretty much 
the usual
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Status: RO

I dont know.  I think I taped it so I'll check.

On Mar 29, 2007, at 2:43 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Sylvia,
>
> Last week must have been Stones week.  I saw a BBC-America documentary 
> about the Stones but it wasn't a concert.  It was about their career 
> until the late 70s.  I didn't see a fringe jacket in that film.  In 
> the PBS show, was the fringe beaded?
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Status: RO

> 1. Mini-skirts:

> 2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear
> pants to school.  Pants-suits, hiphuggers?

> 3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair

> >> 4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed


Abraham Lincoln Public High School, San Francisco, CA, Class of 1969

 - mini skirts
I made myself a dirndle miniskirt in jr. high -1963-64? - and got in
trouble for it but my mom said that knees weren't a bad thing and I
could wear it and that school couldn't punish me. I shouldn't have
worn it, I was short and the waistband was only about 3x the length of
the skirt, not an attractive outfit now that I think of it. My mom and
I have laughed about it since. But after 1964 we could wear them as
long as our underwear didn't show. But we had to go tot the water
fountain in pairs - one to bend down to drink and one to "block the
view."

> - the first year that girls pants are officially allowed.
1966 we could wear pants to school. My parents didn't allow me to wear
jeans to school so I kept a pair in my locker and wore them. Pant suit
were WAY later than that. Although I remember the winter that my
church allowed pantsuits for women; it was cold in church and the
older ladies complained that it physically hurt them to be in church
in anything less. God bowed to old ladies' joints.

> - long hair? sure; many guys were known by the fact they had long hair. side burns and mustaches? only a few were actually able to grow them. Our school president, the valedictorian of the class before mine, wasn't allowed to get into Disneyland at the Senior field trip because of his long hair and Van Dyke beard, in spite of his button-down shirt and Hush Puppies.

 - fringed jackets: Oh, yeah, especially in group I hung out with. We
all wore suede; I even had a suede wrap around mini-skirt, burgundy,
that my dad gave me for Christmas when I was 16. I loved that skirt!
>
> and another one:
> transition from  stockings/garters to pantyhose: 1966 maybe?
>
> also:
hip-huggers I had in college, but not high school. I had a pair of
Army/Navy surplus 13-button wool pants that I wore. We loved them - I
wore them high school to college when my boyfriend helped me and
washed them in with the jeans and shrunk them. Hey! They're blue,
they're pants, they wash with the jeans!

Penny, I love this subject. Finally something I know really well...
LynnD
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Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 10:06:58 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Busby Berkeley Films
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Status: RO

>Wasn't there a Fred Astaire film about Vernon and Irene Castle?
>Monica
"The Whirl of Life" after a "biography" film of Vernon and Irene, by
the same title.  The biography is a fabrication, except for the part
where V&I are dance teachers.  It's one of the best sources for
ragtime dance styling around.  I believe the Met Museum owns the last
original print.  There's many copies, tho.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing for Males
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Status: RO

I grew up in San Francisco and was at the First Human Be-In" in Golden
Gate Park, late 1966 or Jan-Feb 1967. I was 14. Suede fringe jackets
were very popular at the Be-In, some with very long fringe, some with
beads on the fringe. The Grateful Dead wore them and a few of the
Jefferson Airplane on record albums (remember them?) by then. I
believe Helen is right aabout the style coming from the interest in
going back to the earth and wearing Native American clothing,
including the suede fringe clothing, was part of that life. She's also
right that Sonny & Cher were wearing fringe - and that furry vest that
Sonny wore so often - before 1966. The Byrds from Los Angeles wore
fringe early on too, but I can't remember how early.

By the time I bought my fringe jacket in 1968, it was almost old hat
in the Haight Ashbury, but it took me a long time to save up the $65.
Wasn't allowed to wear it when with my parents - or my straight-laced
brother.

LynnD

On 3/29/07, Helen Pinto <hdpinto@verizon.net> wrote:
> Other '60's musical shows were Shindig and Hullabaloo.
> Sonny and Cher (especially Cher) were also prone to fringe, and they might
> be the earliest, around '65-'66.
>                  -Helen/Aidan
>
>
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume-Con: This weekend!
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Status: RO


I'm packing up now and will be taking off for Costume-Con in the morning.
Of course, it's just a half-hour drive for me, so I figure I'm leaving
later than a lot of other people!

Who will be there tomorrow? I expect I will be looking at the exhibits and
dealers and hanging out in hospitality during the afternoon, maybe taking
in a panel or two, and will be at the Friday evening social at least long
enough to scope out the costumes. I will be easy to spot; for both
afternoon and evening I will be wearing a very silly version of my Gothic
fitted dress suitable only for Costume-Con (consider it an in-joke for the
historical costumers), and will be accompanied by a tall long-haired
gentleman in a coordinating outfit. If anyone from h-cost sees me, please
introduce yourself!

A reminder to those who have a one-day membership for Saturday, or for
that matter anyone else in the neighborhood: Friday attendance is FREE
(except for the social, which will cost $5 if you go to that). So if
you're in town, come on over for the afternoon and get the chance to
cruise the site and people-watch. (If you're going to my lectures on
Saturday, you won't have much time to check out the dealers, etc. so
Friday would be a good day for that.)

One-day members: I believe you should also be able to pick up your
Saturday membership materials on Friday, saving you valuable time in the
brief period between when the registration desk opens at 9am Saturday and
my lectures begin at ... um ... 9am Saturday. OK, I'll start a little late
to allow for the one-day-trippers to get their paperwork and badges!

People not attending the con as members may also come for the big
competition stage shows (the "masquerades") on Saturday night (f/sf) and
Sunday night (historical), for $5 at the door. Well worth seeing.

Info here:
http://www.cc25.net/start.htm

Remember that if you're registering at the door, bring a checkbook or
cash. And yes, there's still room in my Saturday lectures for last-minute
attendees.

http://www.cc25.net/netherton.htm

Forward at will...

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Status: RO

If you answer these questions, please let me know your location and the
app. 
year you remember these fashions were worn to public elementary through
high 
school:
>
>1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured
>2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.  
>Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
>3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
>4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I went to high school in the late '60's, class of 1970 (just dated
myself :) ).  We lived in the greater Kansas City area (suburb on the
Kansas side).  I'm afraid I do not remember to much about boy's hair,
altho some did have it a little shaggy.  We didn't have anyone running
around with a ruler but as a general rule skirts were not supposed to be
to far above the knee.  I remember some of the cheerleaders could get
away with very short ones on game day.  My mother made a lot of my
clothes some hem length was her choice :).  Naturally I rolled my
waistlines :) :).

What I do remember is pants for girls!  We were not allowed to wear any
all through my high school years and the seniors really started
agitating for them.  One of our arguments was that it was cold standing
waiting for the bus :).  To make a point, some of us wore maxi-skirts to
school.  Naturally, the year *after* I graduated they lifted the dress
code and pretty much anything was fair game.  I remember visiting a year
later and it was a sea of denim!

Catherine

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re; [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Status: RO

Subject: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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>My students have been asking some really good questions.  These
questions I >only know the answers from personal experience.  I lived
in Mississippi at the >time and do not know if we were really far
behind fashion or not.  If you answer >these questions, please let me
know your location and the app. year you >remember these fashions were
worn to public elementary through high school:

A very interesting question, I look forward to reading some of the
other anecdotes.

I was in elem school 1965-71  Washington DC area (Falls Church).
I was in 7th&8th grade middle school 71-74 Washington DC area (Falls Church).
I was in high school 74-76  Washington DC area (Falls Church).
I was in elem school 76-78  American Community Schools, Athens Greece
While some of the schools I went to were private, I did not go to any
sort of religious school.

1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured

Not at my schools.  None, neither country. My favorite dress 2nd grade
was a mini-dress, double knit horizontal stripe (put your coffee down
now) in wide hot pink, narrow lime green, wide volkwagen orange,
narrow turquoise.  I wore that thing until it was merely a shirt.  In
early HS, I had a midi that swirled. My mom made it in earth toned
calico prints.

2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.
Pants-suits, hiphuggers?

Always.

I had a cord pantsuit with matching vest and paisley blouse in 5th or
6th grade. My mom made it for the church fashion show.  It was keen!

In 7th grade, oh say '71, I had hot pants (your medieval self would
call it counter change)... left cheek royal purple, right cheek white.
 I had another pair of hot pants in volkwagen orange.

My mom turned the jeans, hiphuggers of course, that I embroidered in
7th-8th grade (with dogs, cats, flowers) into pillows that still live
on the rec room couch.  I still have and can wear the jean jacket I
embroidered in 11th grade history class.

3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed

I dont remember.  If you need more data I can check the yearbooks, but
that's an archaeology project in the garage!  The mullet, tho that's
not what it was called, was definitely a Big Thing. So was the big
'Fro.

You didnt ask, but the prohibited items at my schools were (early on)
things that might provoke racial tensions.  Segregation had just
started when I hit 1st grade.
By the 70s, earing a Mod Squad T-shirt was ok, cuz that showed a mixed
race team, for example.  A hat in the style of Malcom X's ... not
permited.

There were race-based fights nearly every weekend from 8th grade
onward.  When Pol Pot's troupes overran Cambodia, the Boat People,
many of them, ended up in the DC area on emergency political asylum
visas.  Suddenly the race based fights were the blacks+white vs the
newcomers.

When we moved to Athens, no particular clothing styles were
prohibited. No symbols, religious or political, were banned.  My HS
graduation class had students of 31 nationalities in it. The school as
a whole had over 40 nationalities. There really no way to legistate
anything that wouldnt offend someone.  The topic just never came up.

Most of us were only staying for a few years with parents on govt
tours of duty or corporate rotations; I suspect, perhaps unknowing,
that the school administration realized that clothing of where a
student came *from* was part of identity, identity is an issue for
many teens... so leave well enough alone.

Native language & accent & parents occupation identified us just
fine... now those gang fights made DC look like a picnic.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:

> I'm packing up now and will be taking off for Costume-Con in the morning.
> Of course, it's just a half-hour drive for me, so I figure I'm leaving
> later than a lot of other people!
> 
> Who will be there tomorrow? 

Will also be leaving in the morning, expecting to arrive just after 
noon. Got a bunch of trim to get sewn on my Saturday costume before 
tonight...

I will probably be in jeans and a t-shirt Friday, except for the Social 
-- look for the brunette chick in the black spandex and red vinyl. :)


Dawn



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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 14:28:51 -0700
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Status: RO

When I was a freshman in high school, 1968-1969, girls were not allowed =
to
wear long skirts or pants. This was at Menlo-Atherton, in Menlo Park, =
CA,
about 30 miles south of San Francisco. One of my friends, a sophomore, =
wore
a long blue skirt to school one day. She was called into the principal's
office and told not to wear that skirt again. The next day, she wore a =
long
green skirt. Again she was called into the office. "I thought I told you =
not
to wear that skirt," said the principal. "I didn't," she replied. "That =
one
was blue. This is green." A few weeks after that, a lot of the girls =
wore
pants to school, protesting the "skirts only" rule. Miniskirts were =
allowed.
Girls argued that if minis were allowed, which showed off so much, we =
should
be able to wear long skirts and pants if we didn't want to be in skimpy
skirts. Also, minis were cold in wintertime! The administration changed =
the
rules and we were allowed to wear long skirts and pants from then on.


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 1:38 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes


My students have been asking some really good questions.  These =
questions I
only know the answers from personal experience.  I lived in Mississippi =
at
the time and do not know if we were really far behind fashion or not.  =
If
you answer these questions, please let me know your location and the =
app.
year you remember these fashions were worn to public elementary through =
high
school:

1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured=20
2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.
Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed

1. I recall in seventh grade, 1969-70, on the bus to school, I basted =
girls'
skirt hems up...on the way home I let the hems out.  Needless to say, I =
was
fast at hemming.  By 1972/73, we could wear very short baby doll dresses
with bloomers underneath.

2. About 1970-71 (school year), we could wear pants suits similar to the
Partridge Family to school.  The tunic length was measured.  Remember =
the
Susan Dey patterns? By spring that evolved to the pants under a short =
dress
(ironically in fashion now YUCK!) By autumn 1971, we could wear blue =
jeans
and hip-huggers.

3. Fall 1971 guy could wear long hair but no facial hair.

4. 74/75 school year, guys could wear facial hair.=20

I remember vividly specifics about when these became fashionable in our
area.  I sewed around the clock for my sisters and myself to stay on top =
of
fashion.  My senior year, the boys @ school raked me over the coals for
being the first to wear a midi shirt.  I was so hurt that I went home =
and
cut it up with scissors.  A few years ago, a girl friend for that school
found my website.  She wrote that she always knew that  I would go into
fashion career because she loved that skirt.  She described the skirt =
style
and print of fabric perfectly 25 years later.  I still have the pattern =
and
wish I had the fabric!=20
=20
Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 14:32:55 -0700
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Status: RO

One other thing. In high school, I wore a skirt of mine that I had
originally worn when I was four years old.  It had been below knee =
length by
a couple of inches when I was four. My waist was small, so in high =
school, I
wore it as a mini. I also wore my mom's old ice skating skirt as a mini.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 1:38 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes


My students have been asking some really good questions.  These =
questions I
only know the answers from personal experience.  I lived in Mississippi =
at
the time and do not know if we were really far behind fashion or not.  =
If
you answer these questions, please let me know your location and the =
app.
year you remember these fashions were worn to public elementary through =
high
school:

1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured=20
2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.
Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed

1. I recall in seventh grade, 1969-70, on the bus to school, I basted =
girls'
skirt hems up...on the way home I let the hems out.  Needless to say, I =
was
fast at hemming.  By 1972/73, we could wear very short baby doll dresses
with bloomers underneath.

2. About 1970-71 (school year), we could wear pants suits similar to the
Partridge Family to school.  The tunic length was measured.  Remember =
the
Susan Dey patterns? By spring that evolved to the pants under a short =
dress
(ironically in fashion now YUCK!) By autumn 1971, we could wear blue =
jeans
and hip-huggers.

3. Fall 1971 guy could wear long hair but no facial hair.

4. 74/75 school year, guys could wear facial hair.=20

I remember vividly specifics about when these became fashionable in our
area.  I sewed around the clock for my sisters and myself to stay on top =
of
fashion.  My senior year, the boys @ school raked me over the coals for
being the first to wear a midi shirt.  I was so hurt that I went home =
and
cut it up with scissors.  A few years ago, a girl friend for that school
found my website.  She wrote that she always knew that  I would go into
fashion career because she loved that skirt.  She described the skirt =
style
and print of fabric perfectly 25 years later.  I still have the pattern =
and
wish I had the fabric!=20
=20
Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 14:38:14 -0700
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Status: RO

Since we were so close to SF, and the Haight-Ashbury area, long hair was
allowed. I don't remember hearing of any guy getting hassled about the
length of his hair. In eight grade, we had one kid who looked like a =
member
of the Stones. He had long hair, wore jeans, love beads and a fringed
leather jacket. He was the only one, though.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 1:38 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes


My students have been asking some really good questions.  These =
questions I
only know the answers from personal experience.  I lived in Mississippi =
at
the time and do not know if we were really far behind fashion or not.  =
If
you answer these questions, please let me know your location and the =
app.
year you remember these fashions were worn to public elementary through =
high
school:

1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured=20
2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.
Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed

1. I recall in seventh grade, 1969-70, on the bus to school, I basted =
girls'
skirt hems up...on the way home I let the hems out.  Needless to say, I =
was
fast at hemming.  By 1972/73, we could wear very short baby doll dresses
with bloomers underneath.

2. About 1970-71 (school year), we could wear pants suits similar to the
Partridge Family to school.  The tunic length was measured.  Remember =
the
Susan Dey patterns? By spring that evolved to the pants under a short =
dress
(ironically in fashion now YUCK!) By autumn 1971, we could wear blue =
jeans
and hip-huggers.

3. Fall 1971 guy could wear long hair but no facial hair.

4. 74/75 school year, guys could wear facial hair.=20

I remember vividly specifics about when these became fashionable in our
area.  I sewed around the clock for my sisters and myself to stay on top =
of
fashion.  My senior year, the boys @ school raked me over the coals for
being the first to wear a midi shirt.  I was so hurt that I went home =
and
cut it up with scissors.  A few years ago, a girl friend for that school
found my website.  She wrote that she always knew that  I would go into
fashion career because she loved that skirt.  She described the skirt =
style
and print of fabric perfectly 25 years later.  I still have the pattern =
and
wish I had the fabric!=20
=20
Penny Ladnier,=20
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:School Dress codes 60'-70'
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Status: RO


I began Jr High in '66.   The dress code was slacks for 
boys, Dresses no shorter than three inches from the floor 
when you kneeled for girls.  No pants or jeans for girls. 
 I can remember the assistant principal walking around 
with a ruler, and the head cheer leader kneeling in the 
hall nearly every day.  She was very petite so 3 inches 
from the floor was half way to the hip on her.   she got 
sent home more than once.   Hair length I don't remember 
much about.

In senior high I sat near a long haired drug addict.  My 
kids tell me he was probably high on weed, but it was 
every day and bad enough for ME to recognize it so it was 
bad.... but anyway, He was allowed to come with long hair 
so I know it was allowed.   We had a teacher who wore the 
bell bottoms and tunic combo, so I'm sure it was allowed. 
  this was in Colorado springs, CO.

As a senior in '72, I sneaked the pants to a pants suit 
out of the house so I could wear pants to school.  I was 
in school in rural PA that year.   They were allowed in 
school but not by MOM.  This wasn't a hippy pants suit 
though, it was a corduroy pants suit.  Hope this helped.

Kitty in Somerset, PA
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:School Dress codes 60'-70'
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Status: RO

> As a senior in '72, I sneaked the pants to a pants suit out of the house 
> so I could wear pants to school.  I was in school in rural PA that year. 
> They were allowed in school but not by MOM.  This wasn't a hippy pants 
> suit though, it was a corduroy pants suit.  Hope this helped.


Okay, for someone who didn't start kindergarten until 1967, please tell me 
what a "hippy pants suit" is -- when I think pants suit, I think of the 
mono-chrome polyester numbers worn by disco kings and Mrs. Brady.


FWIW, "disco" persisted into the middle 80s in small midwestern towns. The 
clothes changed and the music changed, but when it was time to meet friends, 
we always asked -- Going to the Disco this weekend?  Mirrored ball and 
strobe lights still there, updated with music videos on big-screen tv.

Denise B
Iowa 

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Subject: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.
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Status: RO

Anyone know what books have good reproductions of the following images:

 

Holbein's English Burgher's wife (In color - I have it in black and white)
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg

 

A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575 

 

http://www.allposters.com/-sp/A-Fete-at-Bermondsey-circa-1570-Posters_i13478
95_.htm

 

Thanks, 

 

Sg

 

 

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Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 19:44:57 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.
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Status: RO

At 07:19 PM 3/29/2007, you wrote:
>Anyone know what books have good reproductions of the following images:
>
>
>
>Holbein's English Burgher's wife (In color - I have it in black and white)
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg

I don't think that this was ever done in color.  It's a sketch.

>
>
>A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575
>
>http://www.allposters.com/-sp/A-Fete-at-Bermondsey-circa-1570-Posters_i13478
>95_.htm

Really nice posters, but pricey.  I've not seen any large 
reproductions in books, just bits of it.  The smallest size poster is 
still larger than I have seen in any book.  When the entire picture 
is shown, it's very small (maybe 1/2 page).  I wish someone would do 
a calendar with it.

>Thanks,
>
>Sg

Good luck on your searching.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Megan <megan@benchite.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 23:04:25 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I remember in 2nd grade it was a special permission for us to wear  
pants to school on the day we made paper mache dinosaurs because  
girls could not wear  pants for any reason.  That would have been the  
1970-71 school year.  The next year in 3rd grade we could wear pants,  
so that would have been late 1971.  By 7th grade jeans were ok.  I  
don't remember about mini skirts and facial hair, being in elementary  
school.  This was suburban Pittsburgh, PA.
-Megan
On Mar 29, 2007, at 4:37 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> My students have been asking some really good questions.  These  
> questions I only know the answers from personal experience.  I  
> lived in Mississippi at the time and do not know if we were really  
> far behind fashion or not.  If you answer these questions, please  
> let me know your location and the app. year you remember these  
> fashions were worn to public elementary through high school:
>
> 1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured
> 2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to  
> school.  Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
> 3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
> 4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed
>
> 1. I recall in seventh grade, 1969-70, on the bus to school, I  
> basted girls' skirt hems up...on the way home I let the hems out.   
> Needless to say, I was fast at hemming.  By 1972/73, we could wear  
> very short baby doll dresses with bloomers underneath.
>
> 2. About 1970-71 (school year), we could wear pants suits similar  
> to the Partridge Family to school.  The tunic length was measured.   
> Remember the Susan Dey patterns? By spring that evolved to the  
> pants under a short dress (ironically in fashion now YUCK!) By  
> autumn 1971, we could wear blue jeans and hip-huggers.
>
> 3. Fall 1971 guy could wear long hair but no facial hair.
>
> 4. 74/75 school year, guys could wear facial hair.
>
> I remember vividly specifics about when these became fashionable in  
> our area.  I sewed around the clock for my sisters and myself to  
> stay on top of fashion.  My senior year, the boys @ school raked me  
> over the coals for being the first to wear a midi shirt.  I was so  
> hurt that I went home and cut it up with scissors.  A few years  
> ago, a girl friend for that school found my website.  She wrote  
> that she always knew that  I would go into fashion career because  
> she loved that skirt.  She described the skirt style and print of  
> fabric perfectly 25 years later.  I still have the pattern and wish  
> I had the fabric!
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

The first I've only found in color here:
  Tate Britain's Holbein in England exhibit, A Young Englishwoman http://www.tate.org.uk/britain/exhibitions/holbein/rooms/room6.htm
  There is a book that goes with the exhibit
  Holbein in England (Paperback) 
by Susan Foister (Author)
  ISBN-10: 1854376454 
   
  I do not know if that would have a color version. Perhaps Suzi knows, as I think she has a copy of this book from the exhibit.
   
  As to the second, I've only found small versions in my books, and only pricey posters $50+US that show it at a decent size. I had to do a 200% scan of the one I have online, and I think the page I scanned it from was about a half a page, and I don't remember which book I got it from.
   
  Kimiko

WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
  Holbein's English Burgher's wife (In color - I have it in black and white)
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg

A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575 


 
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Status: RO

Kimiko Small wrote:

> The first I've only found in color here:
>   Tate Britain's Holbein in England exhibit, A Young Englishwoman http://www.tate.org.uk/britain/exhibitions/holbein/rooms/room6.htm
>   There is a book that goes with the exhibit
>   Holbein in England (Paperback) 
> by Susan Foister (Author)
>   ISBN-10: 1854376454 
>    
>   I do not know if that would have a color version. Perhaps Suzi knows, as I think she has a copy of this book from the exhibit.
>    

The book does have a color version, a little larger than life size (the 
original is 16x9.2 cm). I'm looking at it now. The image on the Tate 
website is very good, too.


Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] "hippie" pants-suit vs. Corduroy pants-suit
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Status: RO


Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 17:38:59 -0500
From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>

> They were allowed in school but not by MOM. This wasn't a hippy pants
> suit though, it was a corduroy pants suit. Hope this helped.


Okay, for someone who didn't start kindergarten until 
1967, please tell me
what a "hippy pants suit" is -- when I think pants suit, I 
think of the
mono-chrome polyester numbers worn by disco kings and Mrs. 
Brady.

Well, that's sort of what I meant.  In '71-'72, I had a 
brown corduroy pants suit given to me, with a plain jacket 
similar to what would still be worn today.  conservative, 
flared or straight legged slacks, etc.   This would be as 
opposed to a pants suit with bell bottoms, matching or 
coordinated tunic top, Funky color combinations, prints. 
 In fact, at that time, I wouldn't have even considered 
this style a pants suit, even though now I can see why 
everyone is refering to it as such.

Kitty

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.
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Status: RO

At 03:19 30/03/2007, you wrote:
>Anyone know what books have good reproductions of the following images:
>
>
>
>Holbein's English Burgher's wife (In color - I have it in black and white)
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg
>
>
>
>A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575
>
>
>
>http://www.allposters.com/-sp/A-Fete-at-Bermondsey-circa-1570-Posters_i13478
>95_.htm

I was at the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford a couple of weeks ago, and 
they sell a postcard of the Holbein painting. I know that there is 
also a postcard of the Fete at Bermondsey, and possibly a poster, but 
I forget which stately home owns it. They are always happy to post 
stuff, at least in my experience.

Suzi

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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.
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Status: RO

At 03:44 30/03/2007, you wrote:
>At 07:19 PM 3/29/2007, you wrote:
>>Anyone know what books have good reproductions of the following images:
>>
>>
>>
>>Holbein's English Burgher's wife (In color - I have it in black and white)
>>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg
>
>I don't think that this was ever done in color.  It's a sketch.

This is in colour - she has an orangey red petticoat/underskirt, a 
grey dress, and a pale yellow "sash". It's in pen and ink with 
watercolour washes.

Suzi




>>A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575
>>
>>http://www.allposters.com/-sp/A-Fete-at-Bermondsey-circa-1570-Posters_i13478
>>95_.htm
>
>Really nice posters, but pricey.  I've not seen any large 
>reproductions in books, just bits of it.  The smallest size poster 
>is still larger than I have seen in any book.  When the entire 
>picture is shown, it's very small (maybe 1/2 page).  I wish someone 
>would do a calendar with it.
>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Sg
>
>Good luck on your searching.
>
>
>Joan Jurancich
>joanmj@surewest.net
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 10:21:47 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Status: RO

I left school (near Derby, England) in 1969.

I can't remember the maximum distance above the knee that we were
allowed to wear our skirts (probably 3 in.), but I remember a row of
girls kneeling along the edge of the stage in the school hall to have
their skirts measured. Although I'm slim, I have short, stocky legs so I
couldn't wear my skirts very far above the knee without risking showing
too much! 

Trousers were definitely not allowed, neither was jewellery other than
a wristwatch, and long hair had to be tied up ("bunches" being the
favourite style).

It was a girls' school, so I can't tell you about rules for boys, but I
don't remember seeing a schoolboy with a moustache, then or since.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Busby Berkeley Films
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Status: RO

you should be able to find out the titles of other busby berkely films at  
_www.imdb.com_ (http://www.imdb.com)   (click on 'biographies on  the left, 
enter his name into the search box, and then click his name in the  search results 
- it'llbring up his filmography, as well as telling you what he  did on that 
film).
 
The Fred Astaire / Ginger Rogers film about Vernon and Irene Castle was the  
Barkelys of Broadway, made in 1949, though it's more fiction than reality.
 
debs



   
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Vernon and Irene castle Re: [h-cost] Busby Berkeley Films
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Status: RO

The Astaire/Rogers film is entitled "The Story of Vernon and Irene Castle"

Costume Content:  Just last week a dress, 1920s, came up on ebay from
the Irene Castle line of clothing:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1920s-Corticelli-Silk-IRENE-CASTLE-Label-Flapper-Dress_W0QQitemZ220094326575QQcategoryZ48866QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Katy

On 3/29/07, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
> >Wasn't there a Fred Astaire film about Vernon and Irene Castle?
> >Monica
> "The Whirl of Life" after a "biography" film of Vernon and Irene, by
> the same title.  The biography is a fabrication, except for the part
> where V&I are dance teachers.  It's one of the best sources for
> ragtime dance styling around.  I believe the Met Museum owns the last
> original print.  There's many copies, tho.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybishop64@gmail.com                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Status: RO


> A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575 

The largest version of this that I have seen in a book is (perhaps 
necessarily) a detail and does not show the whole thing.  It cuts off 
the last three people standing on the left and everyone past the first 
two girls with the big round cakes on the right.  It's in The Horizon 
Book of the Elizabethan World by Lacey Baldwin Smith (New York: 
American Heritage Publishing Co., 1967), p. 146.  The image is about a 
foot square.

The original painting is at Hatfield House, for those who'd like to 
write the Marquess of Salisbury to inquire.

If anyone finds a cheaper source for posters, please let me know!  This 
is a fantastic image.


Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.
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Status: RO

I thought it was in this book. I thumbed through about 5 times and never
managed to find it...thanks for the page number!

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 7:35 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.


> A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575 

The largest version of this that I have seen in a book is (perhaps 
necessarily) a detail and does not show the whole thing.  It cuts off 
the last three people standing on the left and everyone past the first 
two girls with the big round cakes on the right.  It's in The Horizon 
Book of the Elizabethan World by Lacey Baldwin Smith (New York: 
American Heritage Publishing Co., 1967), p. 146.  The image is about a 
foot square.

The original painting is at Hatfield House, for those who'd like to 
write the Marquess of Salisbury to inquire.

If anyone finds a cheaper source for posters, please let me know!  This 
is a fantastic image.


Melanie Schuessler

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Status: RO

Aha!  I will write the museum.  Those postcards are fabulous.  I got one of
Elizabeth Buxton, scanned it at high resolution, and was able to see lots of
details.  Thanks!

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 1:43 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.

At 03:19 30/03/2007, you wrote:
>Anyone know what books have good reproductions of the following images:
>
>
>
>Holbein's English Burgher's wife (In color - I have it in black and white)
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg
>
>
>
>A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575
>
>
>
>http://www.allposters.com/-sp/A-Fete-at-Bermondsey-circa-1570-Posters_i1347
8
>95_.htm

I was at the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford a couple of weeks ago, and 
they sell a postcard of the Holbein painting. I know that there is 
also a postcard of the Fete at Bermondsey, and possibly a poster, but 
I forget which stately home owns it. They are always happy to post 
stuff, at least in my experience.

Suzi

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Status: RO


Is that "Gold Diggers" movie the one with the neon violins? I love that one!

Irene Castle wrote a book called "My Husband," which I once read. She came
across as a real pain in the neck! But of course she wrote about him as a
saint. I love the Fred Astaire/Ginger Rogers movie about them. It has one of
my all-time favorite Astaire solo dances, the one he does to "By the Light
of the Silvery Moon," and the dance they do when they're starving to "Tres
Moutard," and of course the saddest, most romantic ending... Oh, I think I'm
going to have to go watch it. I used to do a lot of vintage ballroom dance,
and their dancing in that movie is much closer to real ballroom dancing than
in any of their other movies, and to real dancing of the nineteen-teens. If
I remember correctly, Irene Castle consulted on the dancing and was never
happy with Ginger Rogers playing her.

Costume content: The movie does show Irene bob her hair in the famous Castle
Bob, and her famous Dutch cap. And she wears some killer dresses.

Gail Finke

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Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 11:38:07 -0400
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.
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Status: RO


>
> WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
>   Holbein's English Burgher's wife (In color - I have it in black and white)
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg
>
> A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575
>

Saragrace, I don't remember off the top of my head what book I scanned  
these from, but here's my collection of Bermondsey images .....  The  
first 4 images are 2Megabytes or better -- one is 3.6, I think.  The  
quality of the image wasn't very good -- the printing screen was  
overly visible.

http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel1.jpg
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel2.jpg
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel3.jpg
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel4.jpg

Hope this helps!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Status: RO

My goodness - this helps a lot!  Thank you!  I am contacting the Bridgeman
Art Library who has them in High resolution...who knows what they will cost.
Thank you so much for sharing...

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 8:38 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.


>
> WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
>   Holbein's English Burgher's wife (In color - I have it in black and
white)
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg
>
> A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575
>

Saragrace, I don't remember off the top of my head what book I scanned  
these from, but here's my collection of Bermondsey images .....  The  
first 4 images are 2Megabytes or better -- one is 3.6, I think.  The  
quality of the image wasn't very good -- the printing screen was  
overly visible.

http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel1.jpg
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel2.jpg
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel3.jpg
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel4.jpg

Hope this helps!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue
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Status: RO


A local interior design store is moving, and is selling off all of their
outdated swatches, cheap.  I picked up a bunch of nice pieces to play with, and
I was wondering if anybody had any tricks for removing the glued-on lables? 
Some are so old that the glue has turned to powder and the lables just come off.
 Some I was able to peel off, leaving a minimum of sticky residue behind.  Some
are nice, new lables that aren't interested in leaving; like the one on the
spectrum of silk drapery swatches that I was hoping to use to make a nifty
quilt.  I have one soaking in water, now.  

Does anyone have any suggestions for removing stickers from fabric?  (Warm iron
to soften glue? Freeze it to harden the glue?) I do have enough that I can
sacrifce a few for the sake of experimentation. 

Emma, now the proud owner of one small, faded piece of Scalamandre silk brocade!
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.
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Quoting WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com>:

> My goodness - this helps a lot!  Thank you!  I am contacting the Bridgeman
> Art Library who has them in High resolution...who knows what they will cost.
> Thank you so much for sharing...
>

Sure thing.  I view it sorts of like my collection of Genealogy Photos  
-- I can enjoy them, but it's ever so much fun to spread the joy  
around!  :-)

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.
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Quoting WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com>:

> My goodness - this helps a lot!  Thank you!  I am contacting the Bridgeman
> Art Library who has them in High resolution...who knows what they will cost.
> Thank you so much for sharing...
>

Oh, yeah -- let us know what you find out!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 18:42:10 -0400
Organization: Five Rivers
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Subject: [h-cost] RE:"hippie" pants-suit vs. Corduroy pants-suit
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Status: RO

	As someone who grew up in that era, I can say the 'pant suit' wasn't
really acceptable until the late 60s. I remember even in the very early =
70s,
in fact, I think it was 1970, girls fighting for the right to wear pants =
to
high school. We did a 'sit in' protest. Ended up winning favour. But we
weren't allowed to wear jeans.

	Well, we fixed that the following year. Cause we had another
peaceful demonstration and won the right to wear jeans, and by then the
jeans were huge bell bottoms, not what is called a bell bottom today.
Nu-unh. They were tight to the knee and then flared out hugely so that =
when
you walked there was a real ding-dong effect. And then they became
hip-huggers. Oh so risque! We got in all kinds of trouble. And then the
braless thing happened, and my step-father fetched a fit! So did the
teachers.

	By 1971 or 1972 (grade 10 for me) the pant suit was being worn by
those of us who considered ourselves very fashionable. I had several. =
One
which my mother made in a gorgeous canary yellow crepe polyester with =
wide
white collar, sort of a tunic dress, quite short, and bell bottom pants. =
The
other was a dishy number purchased at a very fashionable women's =
clothing
retailer, in royal blue with a tiny white dot, very fitted bodice with a
wide placket front, tiny loop buttons, v neck, puffy sleeves, enormous =
bells
cut on the circle and very tight at the knee. The tunic was about =
mid-calf,
slit to the waist, almost like a frock coat. I had blue suede =
espadrilles
and I thought I was the cat's youknow. Lol!

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Now available: =
Recipes
of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.22/739 - Release Date: =
3/29/2007
1:36 PM
=20

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue
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Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 17:52:53 -0500 (CDT)
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Status: RO

You know, I can understand your outrage, but this way actually is fine with me.
 If they just put the outdated samples out in a box, I would never have known;
this particular place is off my beaten path.

The iron seems to be helping loosen the glue, but if I let it get too hot it
just soaks into the fabric.  I think (maybe) if I find the perfect temperature,
I can get it to let go of the fabric while still gripping the paper.  (On the
other hand, in terms of time spent, it might be "cheaper" to just buy a few
inches of a hundred different silks!)

Quoting REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>:

> Selling the discontinued samples???? (read outrage
> here) My local decorator just sets the outdated
> samples in a box outside her door free for the taking.
> I asked her the first time I saw them - she said it
> was easier and cheaper than filling up her dumpster
> and paying the dump fee. I have such fun with them -
> book covers, gift bags, vests, lap robes - all kinds
> of stuff. 
> 
> In my experience, no one method works for all samples.
> Different companies use different glues and they seem
> to react differently on various fibers. Some didn't
> want to let go at all so I ended up just trimming the
> end with the label off.
> 
> Good Luck.
> Rebecca
> --- 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:
> 
> > 
> > A local interior design store is moving, and is
> > selling off all of their
> > outdated swatches, cheap.  I picked up a bunch of
> > nice pieces to play with, and
> > I was wondering if anybody had any tricks for
> > removing the glued-on lables? 
> > Some are so old that the glue has turned to powder
> > and the lables just come off.
> >  Some I was able to peel off, leaving a minimum of
> > sticky residue behind.  Some
> > are nice, new lables that aren't interested in
> > leaving; like the one on the
> > spectrum of silk drapery swatches that I was hoping
> > to use to make a nifty
> > quilt.  I have one soaking in water, now.  
> > 
> > Does anyone have any suggestions for removing
> > stickers from fabric?  (Warm iron
> > to soften glue? Freeze it to harden the glue?) I do
> > have enough that I can
> > sacrifce a few for the sake of experimentation. 
> > 
> > Emma, now the proud owner of one small, faded piece
> > of Scalamandre silk brocade!
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > 
> 
> 
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> 
> The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat
> folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 3/30/2007 5:07:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
00217146@bigred.unl.edu writes:

Does  anyone have any suggestions for removing stickers from fabric?  (Warm  
iron
to soften glue? Freeze it to harden the glue?) I do have enough that I  can
sacrifce a few for the sake of experimentation.  




It would probably leave marks on silk, but I've had some luck with Goo  
Gone--it gets the glue out, and then you can wash it out of washable  fabrics.
 
Ann Wass



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 15:42:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Selling the discontinued samples???? (read outrage
here) My local decorator just sets the outdated
samples in a box outside her door free for the taking.
I asked her the first time I saw them - she said it
was easier and cheaper than filling up her dumpster
and paying the dump fee. I have such fun with them -
book covers, gift bags, vests, lap robes - all kinds
of stuff. 

In my experience, no one method works for all samples.
Different companies use different glues and they seem
to react differently on various fibers. Some didn't
want to let go at all so I ended up just trimming the
end with the label off.

Good Luck.
Rebecca
--- 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:

> 
> A local interior design store is moving, and is
> selling off all of their
> outdated swatches, cheap.  I picked up a bunch of
> nice pieces to play with, and
> I was wondering if anybody had any tricks for
> removing the glued-on lables? 
> Some are so old that the glue has turned to powder
> and the lables just come off.
>  Some I was able to peel off, leaving a minimum of
> sticky residue behind.  Some
> are nice, new lables that aren't interested in
> leaving; like the one on the
> spectrum of silk drapery swatches that I was hoping
> to use to make a nifty
> quilt.  I have one soaking in water, now.  
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions for removing
> stickers from fabric?  (Warm iron
> to soften glue? Freeze it to harden the glue?) I do
> have enough that I can
> sacrifce a few for the sake of experimentation. 
> 
> Emma, now the proud owner of one small, faded piece
> of Scalamandre silk brocade!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue
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Status: RO

Emma,

You might try soaking them overnight first and see if the labels and goo
can be scraped off.

Arlys

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Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 20:53:06 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:"hippie" pants-suit vs. Corduroy pants-suit
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Status: RO

At 06:42 PM 3/30/2007, you wrote:
>By 1971 or 1972 (grade 10 for me) the pant suit was being worn by
>those of us who considered ourselves very fashionable. I had several. One
>which my mother made in a gorgeous canary yellow crepe polyester with wide
>white collar, sort of a tunic dress, quite short, and bell bottom pants. >>


My mother made my sister and myself matching pant suits, of a similar 
style. Ours were powder blue polyester, with a lace jabot at the 
neck. They were beautifully made, but polyester...blech!

Dianne


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue
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Status: RO


I soaked one piece for several hours, the paper peeled off but the glue remained
behind.

Freezing seemed to work a little better, but the silk is so thin that it thawed
out pretty quickly.  (Makes me wish for some dry ice)

> You might try soaking them overnight first and see if the labels and
> goo can be scraped off.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:"hippie" pants-suit vs. Corduroy pants-suit
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Status: RO

Greetings--

Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
> At 06:42 PM 3/30/2007, you wrote:
>> By 1971 or 1972 (grade 10 for me) the pant suit was being worn by
>> those of us who considered ourselves very fashionable. I had several. 
>> One
>> which my mother made in a gorgeous canary yellow crepe polyester with 
>> wide
>> white collar, sort of a tunic dress, quite short, and bell bottom 
>> pants. >>
>
>
> My mother made my sister and myself matching pant suits, of a similar 
> style. Ours were powder blue polyester, with a lace jabot at the neck. 
> They were beautifully made, but polyester...blech!
I'm a few years behind the early 70s high school crowd (I was in 
preschool), but I do remember one of my biggest childhood 
disappointments.  Mom did a lot of sewing and made me quite a number of 
pantsuits.  She found this fabric with Siamese cats all over it, and she 
was going to make us matching outfits, with the tunic-style top with the 
cat fabric and matching brown pants. But she messed up the cut on 
mine--half the cats were upside down, so it never got made.  I was very 
bummed.

Susan
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:"hippie" pants-suit vs. Corduroy pants-suit
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 00:16:59 -0400
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Status: RO

On Friday 30 March 2007 6:42 pm, Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:
> 	As someone who grew up in that era, I can say the 'pant suit' wasn't
> really acceptable until the late 60s. I remember even in the very early
> 70s, in fact, I think it was 1970, girls fighting for the right to wear
> pants to high school. We did a 'sit in' protest. Ended up winning favour.
> But we weren't allowed to wear jeans.

In the business world pant suits weren't acceptable for women until the early 
90's--when they stopped cutting the pants as though they were jeans.  :-)
>
> 	Well, we fixed that the following year. Cause we had another
> peaceful demonstration and won the right to wear jeans, and by then the
> jeans were huge bell bottoms, not what is called a bell bottom today.

Actually, what you're thinking of is now called "boot cut", but yes, it is 
much narrower than the "bell bottoms" of yesteryear.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank." -- Woody Allen


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