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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:"hippie" pants-suit vs. Corduroy pants-suit
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2007 14:38:38 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: O

My mom, who went to a fair number of professional conferences,  
thought pants suits were the greatest thing since permanent press,  
and wore them with enthusiasm.

She told me that at one conference (sometime in the late 70s I  
think), a couple of nice ladies took her aside and told her that  
really, you know, it wasn't the Done Thing to _always_ wear pants  
suits. After all, people might think she was a <gasp!> Lesbian.

Being happily married since 1943 and the mother of four, my mom  
thought this was hysterically funny!

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:"hippie" pants-suit vs. Corduroy pants-suit
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Status: RO

On Sunday 01 April 2007 5:38 pm, Chris Laning wrote:
> My mom, who went to a fair number of professional conferences,
> thought pants suits were the greatest thing since permanent press,
> and wore them with enthusiasm.
>
> She told me that at one conference (sometime in the late 70s I
> think), a couple of nice ladies took her aside and told her that
> really, you know, it wasn't the Done Thing to _always_ wear pants
> suits. After all, people might think she was a <gasp!> Lesbian.

[snip]

Sigh.  I believe it.  There still was a fair amount of prejudice against women 
in pants.   

However, by the late 1970s, really *old* women started wearing pants and pants 
suits routinely in significant numbers, doubtless for the same reason as your 
mom (comfort, right?).  I remember this because I thought it unusually 
progressive of them, until I considered the comfort factor.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Status: RO


On Mar 29, 2007, at 1:37 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> My students have been asking some really good questions.  These  
> questions I only know the answers from personal experience.  I  
> lived in Mississippi at the time and do not know if we were really  
> far behind fashion or not.  If you answer these questions, please  
> let me know your location and the app. year you remember these  
> fashions were worn to public elementary through high school:
>
> 1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured
> 2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to  
> school.  Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
> 3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
> 4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed

Newton, Massachusetts, mid to late 1960s --

1. I never saw anyone actually measuring skirts, but I know there was  
a rule. It may have been something like an inch or two above the knee.

2. Girls could not wear pants for any reason, any time. If it was  
freezing cold, they could wear pants under their skirts for the walk  
to school, but had to take them off when they got there. About the  
only allowed form of leg-covering was tights (which I always hated).

And of course, tights were frequently "un-cool." My mom said she used  
to see groups of girls going by on their way to the local junior high  
school in the winters (snow on the streets, etc.) with short skirts  
and bare legs that were bright red from the cold. She said she always  
felt like rushing out and offering them blankets or something.

3. I never paid attention to the rules for boys, but I know some were  
wearing hair that was considered "long" in those days -- though it  
wouldn't be considered "long" now.

I was also much amused when midi skirts and "granny dresses" came  
into fashion, and one of my classmates got into trouble for wearing a  
skirt that was too LONG (a granny dress, in her case). How they  
rationalized that I have NO idea! I suppose it fell into the category  
of "too distracting".

---------------------------------

Interestingly, these are still battlegrounds in some places. The  
school I work for is a Catholic private school for girls, and they  
have always worn uniforms.

The current rule is that uniform skirts are supposed to be no more  
than 3 inches above the knee, but of course in a group of fashion  
conscious young women, who are also at the stage where they're  
growing like weeds, this is difficult to maintain. Students have been  
threatened with all sorts of dire punishments if they are caught  
rolling their waistbands to make their skirts shorter, but in  
general, enforcement is pretty slack, confined to announced days two  
or three times a year. Few of the faculty are interested in doing  
anything about it.

This may change next year, as the new principal-to-be is probably the  
faculty member who's cared the most about the dress code. There are  
rumors the rule may be changed to 2 inches above the knee rather than  
3, and I expect more enforcement.

Until this year, pants have only been allowed by special exemption to  
the few students we have whose families are Muslim (whose definition  
of modest dress includes having legs covered). This year, by radical  
innovation, students could wear pants during the winter, and some  
did; but they had to be the official uniform pants, which are on the  
expensive side. Requests by students for the option of wearing pants  
are frequent, but always blocked by faculty who feel they are  
"unprofessional looking" unless they are the tailored uniform pants.  
Our students don't feel this is fair, especially since the other  
Catholic high schools in town that include girls _do_ allow pants.  
(For the one that requires uniforms, they must be a particular color  
of Dockers.) The faculty who object claim that if pants were allowed,  
it would be too difficult to define which pants were OK and which  
were too tight, too low-slung, or too baggy and "gang-like."

It will be interesting to see what happens :)
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________



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Status: RO

 Simplicity has four new patterns in their Early Summer book, 2 "Museum
Curator" Civil War costumes for women, a virtual reprint of their old
"Medieval Peasants" pictured in different colorways than the original
and  Elizabethan costume 3782.

I purchased the last and from the directions, the pics of the pattern
pieces aren't that far off from Janet Arnold, Hunnisett's "Period
Costume for Stage and Screen" and the "Tudor Tailor", especially for a
"mass market" pattern.  The main sleeves are even two-piece and curved
to fit the arm, thus forcing the wearer to hold her arms at the correct
angle. Personally, I rather like View B, which is a simpler gown and
plan to first use the direction diagrams enlarged and the "Tudor Tailor"
to try this out on my new 16" Ellowyne Wilde" doll. I am not good at
drafting patterns from scratch, so I use something close(a pattern that
fits me or the doll I'm dressing, the historically correct pattern, and
go laborestly from there.

Cindy Abel


=20
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References: <20070330.174649.3328.0.Cley@juno.com>
	<1175303850.460db6aa81b85@webmail02.unl.edu>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2007 09:28:35 -0500
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Status: RO

This might help..

http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/001194.php

hope you can find it in a local store.. Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 8:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue


I soaked one piece for several hours, the paper peeled off but the glue
remained
behind.

Freezing seemed to work a little better, but the silk is so thin that it
thawed
out pretty quickly.  (Makes me wish for some dry ice)

> You might try soaking them overnight first and see if the labels and
> goo can be scraped off.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue
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Status: RO


Wow, I'll have to see if I can find that, thanks.  Have you used it?

Emma

Quoting Betsy Marshall <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>:

> This might help..
> 
> http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/001194.php
> 
> hope you can find it in a local store.. Betsy
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Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2007 19:07:04 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
References: <00c601c771dd$8ee127a0$6400a8c0@momlaptop>
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Status: RO

Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote
>
>
>Interestingly, these are still battlegrounds in some places. The 
>school I work for is a Catholic private school for girls, and they 
>have always worn uniforms.
>
>Until this year, pants have only been allowed by special exemption to 
>the few students we have whose families are Muslim (whose definition 
>of modest dress includes having legs covered). This year, by radical 
>innovation, students could wear pants during the winter, and some  did; 
>but they had to be the official uniform pants, which are on the 
>expensive side. Requests by students for the option of wearing pants 
>are frequent, but always blocked by faculty who feel they are 
>"unprofessional looking" unless they are the tailored uniform pants. 
>Our students don't feel this is fair, especially since the other 
>Catholic high schools in town that include girls _do_ allow pants. 
>(For the one that requires uniforms, they must be a particular color 
>of Dockers.) The faculty who object claim that if pants were allowed, 
>it would be too difficult to define which pants were OK and which  were 
>too tight, too low-slung, or too baggy and "gang-like."
>
>It will be interesting to see what happens :)


This reminds me of a bizarre rule we had at my school, in the 80s.  I 
don't remember being allowed to wear trousers except on the way to and 
home from school, as part of uniform.  But in the top 2 years, when you 
were no longer legally obliged to stay in school, you didn't have to 
wear uniform. This was standard in my area, I don't know if the same was 
true across England.  The idea was that you got used to wearing the kind 
of smart clothes that would be required when you left and got a job.  We 
were allowed to wear "smart denim trousers" but not "jeans".  I never 
did understand what the difference was!

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Status: RO

No, still looking in my local stores(sad face)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of 00217146@bigred.unl.edu
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 11:19 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue


Wow, I'll have to see if I can find that, thanks.  Have you used it?

Emma

Quoting Betsy Marshall <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>:

> This might help..
> 
> http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/001194.php
> 
> hope you can find it in a local store.. Betsy
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2007 14:52:51 -0400
Organization: Five Rivers
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Status: RO

>However, by the late 1970s, really *old* women started wearing pants =
and
pants=20
>suits routinely in significant numbers, doubtless for the same reason =
as
your=20
>mom (comfort, right?).  I remember this because I thought it unusually=20
>progressive of them, until I considered the comfort factor.

	I quite agree; however, let us not forget that women in the business
world were at that time very much trying to gain respect and recognition =
in
the work place, and I can remember quite clearly myself, my mother and
others in the late 1970s eschewing the dress or skirt suit in favour of =
the
pant suit, simply because it made us a little more androgynous. Pants =
forced
men to look at us not as women but as people. I can even remember women
(myself among them) wearing ties with our suits if the suit had a =
jacket.

	For me, at one establishment at which I was the bookkeeper, I can
remember choosing pants over skirts because of the gross sexual =
harassment
by one of the senior partners. God help me should I be in a skirt or =
dress
that zipped up the back! It was because of him I started wearing
front-closing bras because he had a knack of being able to, with one =
deft,
swift flick being able to pop the closure on your bra. The beast had me =
in
tears so many times, and at that time there was no recourse for sexual
harassment charges. You either put up with it, or you quit.

	So, indeed, for many the pant suit was a comfort issue. But for some
it was also a political and social issue.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Now available: =
Recipes
of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Subject: [h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT
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Status: RO

Hi, this is OT, but I know you guys know a lot.  I have been asked by an 8th
grader who is over 6 feet tall to make a graduation dress.  She doesn't
really have any ideas of what she wants.  Do you know of a resource which
will tell what styles look best on tall girls?

 

Thanks!

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT
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Status: RO

Quoting WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com>:

> Hi, this is OT, but I know you guys know a lot.  I have been asked by an
> 8th
> grader who is over 6 feet tall to make a graduation dress.  She
> doesn't
> really have any ideas of what she wants.  Do you know of a resource
> which
> will tell what styles look best on tall girls?

As a short girl, (5'2") I've found that it's more important that a garment fit
correctly than that any particular style be sought out or avoided.  The fullest
part of the bust needs to match her bustline. The waistline should be at the
waist.  The hem should end at an intenional place: Just below the knee, for
example.  

With that having been said, I did a quick google search for "tall girl fashion"
and found a bunch of sites and stores, like this one:
http://www.tallgirlshop.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=72&osCsid=5fd68503bf4749cf89a185a9a7981821
For the most part, the styles look consistent with what everybody else is
wearing, everything is just made longer to fit a longer body.

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Status: RO

No, but I personally have a couple of caveats off the top of my head.  I =
had a friend get married who was 5'11", and these came from that:

a)  3/4 length sleeves are your enemy.  Mid-size people can wear them =
and everybody "gets" that they are supposed to end between the elbow and =
the wrist.  If you're very short or very tall, the initial look says =
your clothes don't fit.

b)  Likewise, tea length is not good for either the very short or very =
tall, IMO.  Ending a few inches above your ankle looks "on purpose" if =
you're 5'6".  If you're 5'2", you look like you're wearing your mother's =
skirt, and if you're 6' you look like you couldn't get clothes long =
enough.

c)  My first thought is that an empire style with a looooong skirt =
falling straight from the bustline might really tend to elongate her =
body and make her look even taller than she is, so I would tend to steer =
her toward something with a defined waist.  With all that long, lovely =
torso, though, and long legs, she should be able to wear styles that =
other girls can only dream about because they get too "busy" when =
compressed onto an average sized body.

Just my nickel--

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: WickedFrau<mailto:wickedfrau@msn.com>=20
  To: 'Historical Costume'<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 12:29 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT


  Hi, this is OT, but I know you guys know a lot.  I have been asked by =
an 8th
  grader who is over 6 feet tall to make a graduation dress.  She =
doesn't
  really have any ideas of what she wants.  Do you know of a resource =
which
  will tell what styles look best on tall girls?

  =20

  Thanks!

  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2007 15:58:37 -0400
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Status: RO

We used Un-Du when I worked as a custom framer. It is amazing stuff! You
might try contacting a local frame supply place to see if they'll sell
it to you. (They may not sell to the public, but it never hurts to ask)

::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Betsy Marshall

No, still looking in my local stores(sad face)
> 
> http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/001194.php
> 
 hope you can find it in a local store.. Betsy


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Simplicity Elizabethan costume 3782
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2007 15:06:09 -0500
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Status: RO

The drawback is that there isn't a smock to go under it. sleeve of "A" has
the "smock" sleeves sewn in.
Dress "B" if worn this way is closer to a Civil War gown (think Scarlet's
curtain dress) then Renaissance as the gown is suppose to be worn over
dresses like dress "A"
ex:
http://tinyurl.com/ywzo36
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/Veronese1560.jpg

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElenoraToledo2.jpg

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/MargaretAudley.jpg

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/AnneAustria.jpg

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady39.jpg

There are a few portraits showing the dress under the style "B" type to have
a similar neckline as dress "A" but I can't seem to find them. Most were
"Italian"

De
-----Original Message-----
Personally, I rather like View B, which is a simpler gown and plan to first
use the direction diagrams enlarged and the "Tudor Tailor"
to try this out on my new 16" Ellowyne Wilde" doll. I am not good at
drafting patterns from scratch, so I use something close(a pattern that
fits me or the doll I'm dressing, the historically correct pattern, and
go laborestly from there.

Cindy Abel



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Simplicity Elizabethan costume 3782
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2007 16:57:49 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

=20
Yes, but I was judging just by the general cut of the pattern pieces.
Most of the commercial patterns are designed for the non SCA, non
historically accurate people who want to dress in an approximation, and
the fewer layers they wear, the more comfortable they are. I wasn't
going to slavishly copy View B or A, but use them as a guide. I usually
just get something in a modern pattern(those $1.99 pattern sales!)alter
to fit me, and then haul out Arnold and Hunnisett as help to get the cut
accurate.=20

Now if we could get some last quarter of the 18th century good patterns
from Simplicity(et.al).

Cindy Abel

=20

The drawback is that there isn't a smock to go under it. sleeve of "A"
has the "smock" sleeves sewn in.
Dress "B" if worn this way is closer to a Civil War gown (think
Scarlet's curtain dress) then Renaissance as the gown is suppose to be
worn over dresses like dress "A"
ex:
http://tinyurl.com/ywzo36
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/Veronese1560.jpg

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElenoraToledo2.jpg

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/MargaretAudley.jpg

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/AnneAustria.jpg

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady39.jpg

There are a few portraits showing the dress under the style "B" type to
have a similar neckline as dress "A" but I can't seem to find them. Most
were "Italian"

De
-----Original Message-----
Personally, I rather like View B, which is a simpler gown and plan to
first use the direction diagrams enlarged and the "Tudor Tailor"
to try this out on my new 16" Ellowyne Wilde" doll. I am not good at
drafting patterns from scratch, so I use something close(a pattern that
fits me or the doll I'm dressing, the historically correct pattern, and
go laborestly from there.

Cindy Abel



_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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Status: RO

Actually, you can buy this in any scrapbooking store, or any craft store =
that has a decent supply of scrapbooking supplies.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Linda Rice<mailto:vmaa2@cox.net>=20
  To: 'Historical Costume'<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 12:58 PM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue


  We used Un-Du when I worked as a custom framer. It is amazing stuff! =
You
  might try contacting a local frame supply place to see if they'll sell
  it to you. (They may not sell to the public, but it never hurts to =
ask)

  ::Linda::

  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com> =
[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
  On Behalf Of Betsy Marshall

  No, still looking in my local stores(sad face)
  >=20
  > =
http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/001194.php<http://www.kk.org/cooltoo=
ls/archives/001194.php>
  >=20
   hope you can find it in a local store.. Betsy


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Status: RO

Greetings--

LuAnn Mason wrote:
> c)  My first thought is that an empire style with a looooong skirt falling straight from the bustline might really tend to elongate her body and make her look even taller than she is, so I would tend to steer her toward something with a defined waist.  With all that long, lovely torso, though, and long legs, she should be able to wear styles that other girls can only dream about because they get too "busy" when compressed onto an average sized body.
>   
I wouldn't assume that "long, lovely torso."  Tall girls can have their 
height in their legs, their bodies, or a combination of both.  I'm only 
on the edge of tall (5'9"), but it's all in my legs (34" inseam).

Susan
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2007 18:45:46 -0400
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Status: RO

I'd go for a floor-length dress with a waistline (or a princess cut)  
in anything but vertical stripes. And probably a rounded or squared- 
off neckline rather than a V. Enjoy the elegance of the line but  
don't draw arrows that say "WOW VERY TALL!" I think the old home-ec  
advice about direction of stripes continues to be sensible.

My niece is tall and looks most graceful in long dresses. We do give  
her a V neckline, though, because she has wide shoulders and an ample  
bust and we want the attention on the cleavage and the slim waist  
rather than on the shoulder line and the width of the bust.

Well, that's our taste anyway. (I happen to think almost every woman  
looks most graceful in long dresses!)

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Apr 2, 2007, at 6:32 PM, Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:

> Greetings--
>
> LuAnn Mason wrote:
>> c)  My first thought is that an empire style with a looooong skirt  
>> falling straight from the bustline might really tend to elongate  
>> her body and make her look even taller than she is, so I would  
>> tend to steer her toward something with a defined waist.  With all  
>> that long, lovely torso, though, and long legs, she should be able  
>> to wear styles that other girls can only dream about because they  
>> get too "busy" when compressed onto an average sized body.
>>
> I wouldn't assume that "long, lovely torso."  Tall girls can have  
> their height in their legs, their bodies, or a combination of  
> both.  I'm only on the edge of tall (5'9"), but it's all in my legs  
> (34" inseam).
>
> Susan
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

> My students have been asking some really good questions.  These 
> questions I only know the answers from personal experience.  I lived 
> in Mississippi at the time and do not know if we were really far 
> behind fashion or not.  If you answer these questions, please let me 
> know your location and the app. year you remember these fashions 
> were worn to public elementary through high school:
> 
> 1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured 
> 2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.  
> Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
> 3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair
> 4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed

(Sorry for the lag, just got home.)

Omaha, NE.
 
1) I don't recall measurements, and one year in JROTC the skirt I was
issued as part of my uniform was really short (I'd say mid-thigh, going
just off memory).  This would probably have been fall 1977-spring 1978. 
IIRC, there was a really large hem in the skirt, so apparently the last
girl to wear it had hemmed it up.  I never got in trouble for wearing it,
and had the previous girl gotten in trouble I suspect she would have been
made to let the hem back out.  I've never been a fan of miniskirts even
before the weight went on, so I can't be any more precise than that.
 
2) I remember my grandmother making what she always called "Kabuki pants"
for me, and I know I could wear those to school by 6th grade or so.  They
were basically a wrap pant with _lots_ of overlap and an elastic
waistband.  Let's see ... that would have been around 1973-74.  Before
then, I seem to recall skirts or dresses being the rule unless you were
in gym class.  In 7th grade home ec (around 1974-75), we could choose to
make shorts as part of the sewing section.  I was on the precision drill
team in high school JROTC, and we wore maroon polyester jumpsuits for
some of the drill competitions (not issued, though I think we were told
which pattern to buy).
 
I can't answer 3 or 4 -- I have one brother, but he was in JROTC as well
so had to stay clean-shaven and short-haired.  My only interest in other
boys when I was in school had to do with the odds they would beat me up
or steal from me.
 
Leah
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Subject: [h-cost] 1850s garters
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Status: RO

What kind of garters would women have worn in the mid 19th century to 
hold up their stockings?


Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2007 23:06:57 -0400
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Status: RO

It really depends on her body shape as to what she can wear.  I dress people 
for a living and will be happy to help.  Privately send me her photo and let 
me know about her personality. What she considers her good features and bad. 
The fun part of graduation is this is when true personalities come out, 
especially college graduation.  Under those gowns are some fantastic 
personalities!  At our college you can always tell who are the nursing 
students out of  thousands of graduates.  They are the party people and 
decorate their hats, gowns, etc.  When they announce that the nursing school 
has graduated a party of confetti, balloons, horns announce it by those 
students.  The medical doctors/students take their graduation hats off and 
bow to them.  It is worth going to graduation to see this event!

I float as an adult between 5'10" (bad back days) to 5' 11" (good back).  I 
am from a tall family, the shortest is 5-9, the tallest 7 ft.  When I visit 
my sisters in Florida we swap clothing.  There are 24 years difference in 
age between my youngest and oldest sisters.  My youngest sister is 6-2 or so 
and my oldest sister is 5-9.  The key is taking a piece of clothing and 
change how you wear it with accessories.  Also how you carry "the look makes 
a big difference.  My youngest sister dresses in the "Florida teacher 
casual" look, I dress artsy/dramatic, and my older sister dresses in sexy or 
in club wear.  My older sister was born at the beginning of the baby boomers 
and youngest at the end of the generation.  I don't think I have ever seen 
my sisters in a business suits or stripes.  We are all very expressive of 
our personalities in our mode of dress.

I have a long thin bones.  I look so thin because I am wide but not thick. 
I have never tried to look shorter and wore those 4" heels until son #2 came 
along and the back problems came.  I still wear 2 1/2" inch heels daily. 
When young, I gave up on trying to find guys as tall as me and wore the shoe 
height that I wanted.  LOL, short guys always wanted to date me.  My husband 
is 6-1 and loves when I wear heels.

Being tall, you can wear almost all styles. I don't like stripes except on 
full skirts. I just don't like stripes on anyone.  The trick is knowing 
where to bring out your good points and hide you flaws. Bob Mackie made his 
living doing this for women.  I can wear all lengths of dresses 
successfully.  The key is matching the heel height to the proper length of 
skirt.   I have long arms, torso, and arms.  For long sleeve shirts, I wear 
men's shirts.   I do avoid empire waists.  I have no cleavage and it looks 
my bust look smaller. I have a really long neck and don't wear plunging 
necklines is a no-no.  My youngest sister is chesty and can wear the plunge!

Body shapes plays such an important part in dressing.  My daughter and 
husband are on a weight lost challenge.  I am measuring them weekly.  Today, 
I measured my daughter who is 5-6 and weighs the same as me.  She couldn't 
believe that our measurements are about the same in measurement.  She is 
rather chesty and had to measure me tonight to see that we are the same 
measurements.  The differences are our height, and body/bone shapes (she has 
swimmer's shoulders/mine bony).

Each week at the beginning my class, we discuss the fashions, body types, 
and what worked and didn't on the fashion-relational reality shows, like 
American and Aussie Top Models, Top Design,  Dancing W/ Stars, and American 
Idol (AI).  You have all body types and the dressers/wardrobe experiment 
with the contestants clothing/costume images.  Dress is an expression of a 
the wearer's personality.  A person that is not comfortable in what they are 
wearing is like a fish out of water.  A good example is Melinda Doolittle on 
AI.  I feel so sorry for this lady... a fashion victim  She looks so 
uncomfortable in what the wardrobe dresser puts her in.  Several times she 
has commented on the types dress is not her .  Last week they put her in 
something that she looked great!  Of course, Simon didn't like it.  But she 
looked and acted comfortable in what she wearing for the first time.

I know a lady who is 6-3 or -4 and you would never know it until she stands 
up.  I was so tickled to meet her.  I phoned my youngest sister immediately. 
This was the first time, I have had to look up to another woman.  What a 
wonderful feeling!  It was great to look up to a woman!  I have only had to 
look up to my tall brothers and one tall son all my life!

The same can be said for men... four of my sons are around 6 ft. tall and 
all have different body shapes and personalities.  All have different styles 
of fashion that match their personality and lifestyles.
Son 1: The businessman dresses in shirts and ties (giggle... he wears 
stripes), preppy when casual.  Clean cut hair, well-shaven, shaped eyebrows, 
etc.
Son 2: Computer guru wears a polo for work/dress and t-shirts w/ jeans for 
casual... hair like he just crawled out of bed.
Son 3: Business major college student wears what ever is on the floor and 
smells clean.  When he works the uniform that looks and smells clean.  Life 
in a dorm... get the picture!  Funny.. he always has a clean haircut and 
shaven.
Son 4: Artsy son, wears black jeans with lots of pockets for tools and his 
staff/crew t-shirt of what ever his latest show that he worked.  I had to 
laugh at his orange "Dancing with the Stars" t-shirt.  He got rid of that 
shirt quick!  He said that he only wears orange during October.  He wears a 
long ponytail and shaves maybe once a week.  But he bathes daily and starts 
out the day with clean clothes!

Off-topic but really funny... could be on topic since people see our 
clothing and assume who we are...
A couple of weeks ago,  son #4 was in DC picking up a friend at Dulles 
Airport.  My son was wearing his "crew" shirt from his recent Red Hot Chili 
Peppers concert.  Four giggling teenagers came up to my son wanting his 
autograph.   He tried to tell them that he wasn't in the band and just 
worked  lighting for the concert.  The teenagers did not believe my son and 
insisted on an autograph!  So my son finally gave them an autograph.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: Re:Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s (and 80s) School Dress Codes
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 03/04/2007 03:07:29 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

This  reminds me of a bizarre rule we had at my school, in the 80s.  I  
don't remember being allowed to wear trousers except on the way to and  
home from school, as part of uniform.  But in the top 2 years, when  you 
were no longer legally obliged to stay in school, you didn't have to  
wear uniform. This was standard in my area, I don't know if the same was  
true across England.  The idea was that you got used to wearing the  kind 
of smart clothes that would be required when you left and got a  job.  We 
were allowed to wear "smart denim trousers" but not  "jeans".  I never 
did understand what the difference  was!

Jean



at first school (in the late 70s - early 80s) we had a uniform (red), but  
didn't have to wear it unless we wanted to, but girls had to wear skirts (given  
that the girls did embroidery while the boys played five a side, thisis not a 
 surprise).
 
at middle school (mid 80s - hideous green uniform) we were allowed to wear  
trousers only as part of pe kit.  there was also a slightly odd ruling that  
you weren't allowed to wear pe kit on your way home - pleasant in the siberian  
winter winds that hit the north east coast.....
 
at high school (late 80s, early 90s) it got even more complicated.   the 
unifor was purple and grey, but you could wear trousers if they were grey or  
black.
and we were not allowed any garment in blue denim, but denim of other  
colours was fine.   ?????  so actually, you could wear black  jeans as uniform.
 
sixth formers (though by then I'd left and gone to 6th f college), you were  
allowed to wear whatever you liked, but the denim rule still applied, and you  
could still be sent home to change if you showed up in blue denim or  leather!
 
debbie



   
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
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Status: RO

I had a lovely suede jacket with fringe in 6th or 7th grade.  That would 
have been '67 or '68.  It was a boy's hand-me-down, so, that makes the 
manufacture date '65 at the very latest. SUCH a lovely golden tan color, 
and wonderful texture. <sigh>  I don't know what to call the style 
exactly -  think Wild Bill Cody.

Mary
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <Ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Best styles for tall girls - OT
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Status: RO

Being 5' 11'' myself, and having hit that height before most of my Jr.
High peers, I have to agree that a priority is getting the fit right. 
For one thing, you are more comfortable, and will move better, when you
know something fits.  

I don't know her personal style but I would also second the
recommendations to keep it simple.  She's tall, all her classmates know
it so why try and disguise it.  Give her a graceful line and maybe one
fashion focus point and she will be the belle of the ball.

 Most of my family was tall and this was back when you couldn't find
tall clothes for women.  My mother sewed a lot of our clothes and I
didn't really appreciate it until I was out on my own and having to buy
most of my clothes.  Especially nice now to be able to find tall jeans
:). 

Catherine 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] question about tricornered hats
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Status: RO

I have noticed watching Marie Antoinette, that many of the gentlemens hats 
are made form a bowl shaped brimmed and not a flat brimmed blank.
Is this a later fashion, than the original where it is a flat brim?

I have noticed it especially in films wich takes place in France.
Anybody know anything about this, i am not that knolledged with hats. (Its 
gentlemens hats)

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT
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Status: RO

I would be interested in your advice for my 21 yr old daughter. She is =
5'9"
and long and thin. Small bust.  She often wears things that are less =
than
flattering. I know what looks wrong on her, but I don't know what would =
look
better or what she should avoid.
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 8:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT


It really depends on her body shape as to what she can wear.  I dress =
people

for a living and will be happy to help.  Privately send me her photo and =
let

me know about her personality. What she considers her good features and =
bad.

The fun part of graduation is this is when true personalities come out,=20
especially college graduation.  Under those gowns are some fantastic=20
personalities!  At our college you can always tell who are the nursing=20
students out of  thousands of graduates.  They are the party people and=20
decorate their hats, gowns, etc.  When they announce that the nursing =
school

has graduated a party of confetti, balloons, horns announce it by those=20
students.  The medical doctors/students take their graduation hats off =
and=20
bow to them.  It is worth going to graduation to see this event!

I float as an adult between 5'10" (bad back days) to 5' 11" (good back). =
 I=20
am from a tall family, the shortest is 5-9, the tallest 7 ft.  When I =
visit=20
my sisters in Florida we swap clothing.  There are 24 years difference =
in=20
age between my youngest and oldest sisters.  My youngest sister is 6-2 =
or so

and my oldest sister is 5-9.  The key is taking a piece of clothing and=20
change how you wear it with accessories.  Also how you carry "the look =
makes

a big difference.  My youngest sister dresses in the "Florida teacher=20
casual" look, I dress artsy/dramatic, and my older sister dresses in =
sexy or

in club wear.  My older sister was born at the beginning of the baby =
boomers

and youngest at the end of the generation.  I don't think I have ever =
seen=20
my sisters in a business suits or stripes.  We are all very expressive =
of=20
our personalities in our mode of dress.

I have a long thin bones.  I look so thin because I am wide but not =
thick.=20
I have never tried to look shorter and wore those 4" heels until son #2 =
came

along and the back problems came.  I still wear 2 1/2" inch heels daily. =

When young, I gave up on trying to find guys as tall as me and wore the =
shoe

height that I wanted.  LOL, short guys always wanted to date me.  My =
husband

is 6-1 and loves when I wear heels.

Being tall, you can wear almost all styles. I don't like stripes except =
on=20
full skirts. I just don't like stripes on anyone.  The trick is knowing=20
where to bring out your good points and hide you flaws. Bob Mackie made =
his=20
living doing this for women.  I can wear all lengths of dresses=20
successfully.  The key is matching the heel height to the proper length =
of=20
skirt.   I have long arms, torso, and arms.  For long sleeve shirts, I =
wear=20
men's shirts.   I do avoid empire waists.  I have no cleavage and it =
looks=20
my bust look smaller. I have a really long neck and don't wear plunging=20
necklines is a no-no.  My youngest sister is chesty and can wear the =
plunge!

Body shapes plays such an important part in dressing.  My daughter and=20
husband are on a weight lost challenge.  I am measuring them weekly.  =
Today,

I measured my daughter who is 5-6 and weighs the same as me.  She =
couldn't=20
believe that our measurements are about the same in measurement.  She is =

rather chesty and had to measure me tonight to see that we are the same=20
measurements.  The differences are our height, and body/bone shapes (she =
has

swimmer's shoulders/mine bony).

Each week at the beginning my class, we discuss the fashions, body =
types,=20
and what worked and didn't on the fashion-relational reality shows, like =

American and Aussie Top Models, Top Design,  Dancing W/ Stars, and =
American=20
Idol (AI).  You have all body types and the dressers/wardrobe experiment =

with the contestants clothing/costume images.  Dress is an expression of =
a=20
the wearer's personality.  A person that is not comfortable in what they =
are

wearing is like a fish out of water.  A good example is Melinda =
Doolittle on

AI.  I feel so sorry for this lady... a fashion victim  She looks so=20
uncomfortable in what the wardrobe dresser puts her in.  Several times =
she=20
has commented on the types dress is not her .  Last week they put her in =

something that she looked great!  Of course, Simon didn't like it.  But =
she=20
looked and acted comfortable in what she wearing for the first time.

I know a lady who is 6-3 or -4 and you would never know it until she =
stands=20
up.  I was so tickled to meet her.  I phoned my youngest sister =
immediately.

This was the first time, I have had to look up to another woman.  What a =

wonderful feeling!  It was great to look up to a woman!  I have only had =
to=20
look up to my tall brothers and one tall son all my life!

The same can be said for men... four of my sons are around 6 ft. tall =
and=20
all have different body shapes and personalities.  All have different =
styles

of fashion that match their personality and lifestyles.
Son 1: The businessman dresses in shirts and ties (giggle... he wears=20
stripes), preppy when casual.  Clean cut hair, well-shaven, shaped =
eyebrows,

etc.
Son 2: Computer guru wears a polo for work/dress and t-shirts w/ jeans =
for=20
casual... hair like he just crawled out of bed.
Son 3: Business major college student wears what ever is on the floor =
and=20
smells clean.  When he works the uniform that looks and smells clean.  =
Life=20
in a dorm... get the picture!  Funny.. he always has a clean haircut and =

shaven.
Son 4: Artsy son, wears black jeans with lots of pockets for tools and =
his=20
staff/crew t-shirt of what ever his latest show that he worked.  I had =
to=20
laugh at his orange "Dancing with the Stars" t-shirt.  He got rid of =
that=20
shirt quick!  He said that he only wears orange during October.  He =
wears a=20
long ponytail and shaves maybe once a week.  But he bathes daily and =
starts=20
out the day with clean clothes!

Off-topic but really funny... could be on topic since people see our=20
clothing and assume who we are...
A couple of weeks ago,  son #4 was in DC picking up a friend at Dulles=20
Airport.  My son was wearing his "crew" shirt from his recent Red Hot =
Chili=20
Peppers concert.  Four giggling teenagers came up to my son wanting his=20
autograph.   He tried to tell them that he wasn't in the band and just=20
worked  lighting for the concert.  The teenagers did not believe my son =
and=20
insisted on an autograph!  So my son finally gave them an autograph.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com=20

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 17:03:01 -0500
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Status: RO

On Mar 29, 2007, at 0:57, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> I am trying to find out the who started the fashion trend of the  
> 1960s long fringed jackets or shirts for musicians.  I am taking  
> about the ones like were worn by Jimi Hendrix or Judas in Jesus  
> Christ Superstar (movie).

Some of this has been answered somewhat by others already, but to the  
best of my fading memory off the top of my head in old geezer oral  
tradition style:

The jackets were a "cowboy" and "scout" thing. That would Indian  
Scout, like Wild Bill. They were mass produced, sold everywhere and  
they predate the summer of love. I had mine in '64 (suede fake  
"buckskin" with a zipper!). This is the type you see on Neil Young  
and Buffalo Springfield, The Byrds, Quicksilver Messenger Service,  
etc. Buffalo Bill style. Except those guys had the dough for real  
buckskin. They were already "in" and when it got to be "in" for bands  
to quit wearing sports coats and ties, the buckskin was handy.

  The guys were the cowboys and the chicks were the Indians. Girls  
would wear fringed vests and "Apache boots" or moccasins". Headbands  
were in, with or without feather, but I think the warpaint was only  
worn on TV. It's all pretty hazy. The fad peaked in the summer of '66  
and was over for the "civilians" by the end of '67. My 1967 summer  
girlfriend was still wearing moccasins and it was still cool, but  
then it was done.

The later stage wear by Daltrey, Hendrix, etc. was something a little  
different as it was not suitable for general purpose usage by the  
masses; strictly stage clothes. At least for most guys.

I tried to get my sons interested in wearing a 60s style "scout"  
jacket for stage wear or at least publicity photos and they said I  
was nuts.

Ed Walton
Lost Battalions Military Reproductions
http://www.lostbattalions.com
972-690-1945


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From: Ed Walton <recon36@airmail.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 17:36:03 -0500
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Status: RO

On Mar 29, 2007, at 11:09, Hope Greenberg wrote:

> and another one:
> transition from  stockings/garters to pantyhose: 1968 or so

Yeah, I remember. A real bummer, man!

Ed Walton
Walton & Taylor Mercantile
http://www.waltontaylor.com



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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 15:48:24 -0700
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Status: RO

My daughter got a vintage dress for her high school prom. She is 5'9" =
and
naturally thin. The (long)dress was strapless, but you could put on
spaghetti straps for the 8th grader. It fit to the seam at the waist. It
then flowed out over hips to a skirt that had a straight look in front, =
but
more fabric at the back, kind of right under her fanny, with a large =
fabric
bow, asymmetrical. The fabric is heavy satin, embroidered. She says if =
she
ever gets nominated for an award, she's wearing this dress. I don't know
what your 8th grader wants, this is rather sophisticated
Sharon.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of WickedFrau
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 12:29 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT


Hi, this is OT, but I know you guys know a lot.  I have been asked by an =
8th
grader who is over 6 feet tall to make a graduation dress.  She doesn't
really have any ideas of what she wants.  Do you know of a resource =
which
will tell what styles look best on tall girls?

=20

Thanks!

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Status: RO

I'm late to the party, but I can't resist.
RISD Richardson, Texas (across the street from Dallas) 1967-1974

> 1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured
No. Don't know what the rules were, but they were super short. They  
would stop traffic, even today. Both in Junior High and Senior High.  
I didn't appreciate it at the time. Wow!

> 2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to  
> school.  Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
I remember girls wearing pants, but no jeans, at elementary school.  
That was in 1963, because I remember when one girl's elastic  
waistband broke in 2nd grade.:-) From junior high to graduation, the  
chicks were all in jeans with these little one inch zippers. I also  
remember girl's "drive-in pants" which were jeans with a fall front.  
Wow! They used to wear these skin tight ribbed tops with them.

> 3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair

Yes.

> 4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed

When you could grow it.

The end of the mini-skirt no-bra era was a disaster.

Ed Walton
Lost Battalions Military Reproductions
http://www.lostbattalions.com
972-690-1945
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Status: RO

Sorry if this is a repost, I don=92t see it showing up on the list.

Katherine Barich, who many of you probably know from other the Ren =
Tailor
and German Ren lists, has found a very interesting find!  She has given =
me
permission to repost this message.

Sg

________________________________________
----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Katherine Barich" <wheezul@canby.com>
To: <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 12:49 AM
Subject: [TheRenTailor] The Attifet revisted

I hope I didn't send this twice...) - but for SG :)

I have finally found a period citation to the word attifet - in Italian, =
no=20
less. I found the citation listed in "Glossaire Archeologique du Moyen =
Age=20
et de la Renaissance" by Victor Gay. Vecellio lists the term in his=20
description of the noble women of Paris. I've translated for us, but =
still=20
am learning Italian. I continue to work on finding more information on =
the=20
oreillette and have had some success, but will wait until I firm up my =
ideas

a bit more.

Here's the quote from page 82 (note the one t)

"Atifet - Cette coiffure s=E9v=E8re, port=E9e par la veuve de Henri II =
et les=20
dames nobles de Paris jusqu'a la fin du XVIe si=E8cle, rehaussait par =
deux=20
petites arcades les cot=E9s du front et couvrait la chevelure d'un voile =

retombant sur les =E9paules.

1590 - Le nobili matrone di Parigi non si lasciano veder il viso ... la =
lor=20
acconciatura di testa e chiamata l'atifetto, il quale fa due archi dall=20
parte de fronte, coperto di un veletto attaccato con una punta sopra i=20
capelli del fronte, e poi cade sopra le spalle, e sotto di esso veletto =
si=20
vedon i capelli ricci ben accommodati (Vecellio, t. II, p 238, edit. =
Didot.)

[Atifet - This severe coiffure, worn by the widow of Henri II and the =
noble=20
ladies of Paris around the end of the 16th century, elevated by two =
small=20
arcs on either sids of the front and covering the hair with a veil =
falling=20
to the shoulders.]

[The noble matrons of Paris do not let their faces be seen...they =
arrange a=20
style on the head and call it the atifetto, which has two archs on =
either=20
side of the front, covered with a small veil attached to a point above =
the=20
hair in the front, and then falls to above the shoulders, and beneath =
the=20
small veil their curly hair is quite accommodated.]

Katherine=20


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 19:16:47 -0500
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Status: RO

I've been enjoying this thread quite a bit.  I graduated in 1972, in  
Ann Arbor, Michigan.  Some of our experiences were similar:

When I started 7th grade, in 1966, all the girls with delusions of  
style rolled their skirts on the bus on the way to school.  The dress  
code said skirts had to touch your knee but I don't remember anyone  
ever being sent home for short skirts.  They must've tossed the  
hemline rule the following year because I remember skirts going to  
thigh-length--but we still had to wear dresses no matter what.  By  
the summer of 1968, I couldn't wear off-the-rack dresses unless they  
came with matching bloomers--which some did!--because I'm long- 
waisted.  I remember vividly walking around with one hand holding my  
books (no backpacks!  that was too casual) and the other tugging at  
my hem in hopes that no one would see my underwear.  The other wierd  
thing about rising hemlines is that pantyhose were fairly new and the  
quality wasn't good; they didn't stretch much and the dark "panty"  
part was always showing at my hemline.  Yuck.

In the fall of 1968 (9th grade for me) we petitioned to be allowed to  
wear slacks to school, based on the argument that skirts had just  
gotten waaay too short.  We were turned down, of course, by a school  
board made up of adults who feared we would become just like those  
riotous students on campus....  So in the spring of 1969 we organized  
a protest:  a bunch of us made MAXI skirts and agreed to wear them on  
the same day, accessorized with love beads and flowers in our hair --  
none of which was forbidden by the dress code, so they couldn't send  
us home.  Pretty soon thereafter, we were allowed to wear "tailored  
slacks" (not jeans!) to school.  By 1971, jeans were allowed but I  
don't remember exactly when the transition happened.  I had the  
coolest red-white-&-blue pin-striped bell-bottom Levi's (which my  
children still do not believe, LOL).  Shorts were not allowed, of  
course, at any time.

While hemlines weren't very often measured, I do remember that boys'  
hair was checked to make sure it didn't touch their collars....  That  
must've changed sometime around 1970....  By 1972, the boys who were  
able <g> were wearing moustaches as well.

Thanks for the memory trip!
Suzanne

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Status: RO

Does anyone know when elastic was first used in clothing and how?


Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Status: RO


Surely everyone is home now, but if they're like me, they're nowhere near
unpacked. So I'll start, and y'all chime in and fill in where I forget.

The CC25 committee did a smashing job. The hotel venue was well-situated
and conveniently laid out, and I didn't hear one word of complaint about
the site, which is a rare thing indeed. Programming covered a wide range
and started on time (OK, I delayed mine a bit, but only because I was
talking all day nonstop and needed to hit the bathrooms in between, as did
some of my audience). To mark the 25th anniversary, there were some
brilliant exhibits of photos and costumes going back to the very first
Costume-Con. Genie Hillen ran a truly hospitable hospitality suite and
seemed to be able to read the minds of everyone who walked in, producing
thin mints and bottled water (for this non-soda-drinker) like a magician.
And the sort of small touches that really make a difference were in
evidence everywhere -- badge holders in the form of small wallet pouches
(really helpful to costumed people), witty rock-and-roll theme session
names / decorations / background music, good signage, etc. This may have
been the best organized con I have ever attended.

I'm not a competitor, but I enjoy seeing the brilliant and beautiful
things other people come up with. And there were plenty of competitions:
decorated shoes, doll costuming, hall costumes. Plus the usual two big
"masquerades" (f/sf and historical), which for those who haven't seen them
are really stage shows with costumes presented as performance art, and the
Future Fashion Show, in which costumers choose designs submitted earlier
by entrants to the Future Fashion Folio. The FFS/FFF are my favorite
events, and this year's crop included some very witty plays on the themes
of "red hat society" and "orange." The f/sf Best In Show went to a cosplay
group doing "Trinity Blood," and the historical Best in Show went to a
1940s torch singer. I'm sure all the winners will be listed eventually on
the official CC websites, but I'll let the listmembers who competed fill
in anything relevant here. (Yes, folks, blow your own horns please.)

Hall costumes were everywhere; I'd say roughly half the people wandering
around at any given time had some element of costume on them, ranging from
funny hats to full-dress historicals, cosplay, furries, and everything in
between.

I met more h-costumers than I expected. Dawn showed up at the Friday
social in strategically arranged black spandex and red vinyl. Tearose
arrived with a pocketful of red "H" pins for those h-costumers lucky
enough to find her; she also won a well-deserved prize in the doll costume
contest, and I lost track of how many historicals I saw her in, though I
remember her Flemish peasant because she borrowed my chemise ;-)  
Sunshine Buechler, who changed periods every time I saw her, was a vision
in the historical masquerade, where she won a major prize (and I'll let
her tell you what, and what for, because I won't do it justice). Of course
Pierre and Sandy were working their tushes off, and made appearances in
their trademark dazzling assemblages of shiny fabric and fantastic
headdresses. E House was there, and Margaret Decker, and Donna Cascio
(Cassandra), and Mary Piero Carey, and many others I'm sure I know from
the list in past years but don't know if they're still on these days. I
must have walked past Judy Mitchell at least three times because she kept
changing outfits and I kept not recognizing her with new hair/clothes. Ann
Catelli for once was *not* at my lectures, but since she's been three
times already, I'll let her off the hook -- besides, she was pretty busy
working as stage ninja for the masquerades.

As noted, I lectured all day Saturday, and a lot of us descended on the
Steak 'n' Shake next door to keep nattering over lunch. The lecture
audience was a great mix of re-enactors, theatrical types, cosplay folks,
etc. who asked good questions and kept me on my toes.

For the first time, I made and wore a hall costume, because where else
could I find anyone who would understand the idea of a Goth Fitted Dress?
A preliminary photo is here:
	http://www.tancos2.net/robin/goth033007.jpg
I'm afraid the black fabric makes it hard to see that this is a standard
lace-up, wool-and-linen GFD, but with a black chemise and veil, and modern
Goth accessories -- lace gauntlets, neck ribbon, tattoos (no, I don't have
a permanent lizard on my bosom), and a death-warmed-over makeup job with
pale foundation, bruise-purple eyeshadow, blood-red nail polish and
lipstick. I think this is the first time I have ever used eyeliner, and
probably the first time I've had on eyeshadow since my wedding. (Said one
friend, "You're wearing eye makeup! How un-Robin!") Not visible here are
the black hiking boots and fishnet stockings. My companion, who was
good-natured enough to dress to match (and grateful I didn't put eyeliner
on *him*), said I was "charmingly creepy." Heh.

He took about 300 photos, so I'll post a link when they're up, in a few
days.

Costume-Con will be in San Jose in 2008, Baltimore in 2009, and Milwaukee
in 2010. I have been asked to speak at the latter, but I don't know yet if
it conflicts with Kalamazoo. Somehow I think the Goth Fitted Dress would
not exactly work for the International Medieval Congress ...

--Robin



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From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 18:04:58 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I remember fringed jackets as Western wear.  My mother had one that  
she had purchased in the early 50's.  She's never quite forgiven me  
(nor have I forgiven myself) for leaving it out in the rain.

I don't think they were around much  in the early 60's.  My brother  
saved his money up for one, but my parents couldn't find one anywhere  
near us, even though we lived in rural California where Western wear  
was the norm.  They finally found one on a trip to, of all places,  
New York City!

Didn't Dennis Hopper wear a fringed jacket in "Easy Rider"?

Margo


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 22:18:46 -0400
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Status: RO

Maybe someone's mentioned this already, but the very best style for a tall
girl particularly, and ALLl women in general - is GOOD POSTURE!

Makes the boobs higher and perkier, narrows the waist and minimizes the
gut - instant way to look like you're dropped ten pounds and a zillion
degrees more confidence and control.

A while back I found myself watching a documentary with the sound off (don't
ask!) and my first thought was that the  interviewer had to be American
because she had what I think to myself as "the seventies slouch" because
that seemed to be almost fashionable stance when I was an adolescent and so
many people my age (50's) disfigure themselves with really bad posture. When
I turned on the sound  to check, I was correct - it was an Afro-American
woman interviewing all these erect but relaxed, graceful people from some
small village in Africa, somewhere. The American stuck out like a sort
thumb.

End of lecture!

Sheridan Alder - 5' 9" and still working on it when tired - starts to slump!

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elastic
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Status: RO

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> Does anyone know when elastic was first used in clothing and how?
> 

I don't have sources for this, but it developed in the early 1800s. 
Rubber had been used on cloth to make waterproof clothing, and then it 
was pressed and cut into strips for belts and things. It wasn't terribly 
stretchy like what we have now, and it tended to be pretty sticky. 
Rubber "thread" wrapped with fiber was developed to counter the 
stickiness, and became the kind of elastic we use in clothing now.



Dawn

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Status: RO

In my research on women's clothing from this period, which I am 
undertaking at the moment, I keep coming across the word "chip" used as 
a material for bonnets.  The drawings of such bonnets look like they 
are made of straw to me, but they seem to be distinguished from straw 
hats, which are described as such, in some fashion.  Does anyone know 
what kind of material chip was?


Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com
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Status: RO

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> In my research on women's clothing from this period, which I am 
> undertaking at the moment, I keep coming across the word "chip" used as 
> a material for bonnets.  The drawings of such bonnets look like they are 
> made of straw to me, but they seem to be distinguished from straw hats, 
> which are described as such, in some fashion.  Does anyone know what 
> kind of material chip was?
> 

Oooh! I was just reading about that in one of my Christmas-gift books.

Hats and Bonnets from Snowshill, by Althea Mackenzie.

There's a picture of the inside of a deteriorating hat and it says it's 
"constructed of chip made from fine slivers of wood that offered a 
cheaper alternative to straw. The chip is covered with fawn paper and a 
layer of blue-black silk."

It looks like the chip strips (heh) are maybe 1/4 inch wide, and they're 
woven together like a basket.



Dawn



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Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:


> 
> For the first time, I made and wore a hall costume, because where else
> could I find anyone who would understand the idea of a Goth Fitted Dress?
> A preliminary photo is here:
> 	http://www.tancos2.net/robin/goth033007.jpg


That was a great dress, Robin! And your lectures were really 
interesting. I didn't mean to stay for all of them, but after you got 
started, I couldn't make myself leave....

Here's a pic of a few of us H-Costumers at the Friday Social. Yeah, 
that's me in the red and black. :)

      http://www.reddawn.net/costume/H-costumecon.jpg

I was impressed by the overall quality of the costuming there, and the 
relatively large numbers of well-made hostorical costumes that were around.



Dawn


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Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2007 09:09:21 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FW: The Attifet revisted
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Status: RO

A minor correction to Katherine's translation; not sure about Italian, but =
certainly in French "front" means "forehead".


"Atifet - Cette coiffure s=E9v=E8re, port=E9e par la veuve de Henri II et =
les=20
dames nobles de Paris jusqu'a la fin du XVIe si=E8cle, rehaussait par =
deux=20
petites arcades les cot=E9s du front et couvrait la chevelure d'un =
voile=20
retombant sur les =E9paules.

1590 - Le nobili matrone di Parigi non si lasciano veder il viso ... la =
lor=20
acconciatura di testa e chiamata l'atifetto, il quale fa due archi dall=20
parte de fronte, coperto di un veletto attaccato con una punta sopra i=20
capelli del fronte, e poi cade sopra le spalle, e sotto di esso veletto =
si=20
vedon i capelli ricci ben accommodati (Vecellio, t. II, p 238, edit. =
Didot.)

[Atifet - This severe coiffure, worn by the widow of Henri II and the =
noble=20
ladies of Paris around the end of the 16th century, elevated by two =
small=20
arcs on either sids of the front and covering the hair with a veil =
falling=20
to the shoulders.]

[The noble matrons of Paris do not let their faces be seen...they arrange =
a=20
style on the head and call it the atifetto, which has two archs on =
either=20
side of the front, covered with a small veil attached to a point above =
the=20
hair in the front, and then falls to above the shoulders, and beneath =
the=20
small veil their curly hair is quite accommodated.]


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

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Status: RO

Dawn wrote:
> I was impressed by the overall quality of the costuming there, and the 
> relatively large numbers of well-made hostorical costumes that were around.


	yup, there are some serious historic costumers around. and in 2 years 
it comes to Baltimore where I'm the Historic Masquerade Director! I'm 
hoping for lots of good entries, so come on out. We're working on 
getting a website up, so no url to point you to (reg is $70 til the end 
of the year).


	-Judy Mitchell
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elastic
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Status: RO

According to _Handbook of English Costume in the 19th Century_ by C Willett 
Cunnington and Phillis Cunnington, a patent for elastic, made of India 
Rubber, was filed in Patent Office in 1837. In that same year, elastic sided 
half boots first appeared.

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elastic


> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know when elastic was first used in clothing and how?
>>
>
> I don't have sources for this, but it developed in the early 1800s. Rubber 
> had been used on cloth to make waterproof clothing, and then it was 
> pressed and cut into strips for belts and things. It wasn't terribly 
> stretchy like what we have now, and it tended to be pretty sticky. Rubber 
> "thread" wrapped with fiber was developed to counter the stickiness, and 
> became the kind of elastic we use in clothing now.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2007 11:11:59 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] re: elastic
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Status: RO

>, a patent for elastic, made of India
>Rubber, was filed in Patent Office in 1837. In that same year, elastic sided
>half boots first appeared.

That would be Charles Goodyear who's first(?) business was
manufacturing boots, gloves, coats & other wearables out of "India gum
rubber".  I believe his business was formed 1837 coincident with the
patent.  You're on your own to look up the rest.  I dont remember much
more than that.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Attifet Hat Elizabethan Tudor
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Status: RO

>I have finally found a period citation to the word attifet - in Italian, no
>less. I found the citation listed in "Glossaire Archeologique du Moyen Age
>et de la Renaissance" by Victor Gay. Vecellio lists the term in his
>description of the noble women of Paris. I've translated for us, but still
>am learning Italian. I continue to work on finding more information on the
>oreillette and have had some success, but will wait until I firm up my ideas
>a bit more.

"oreillette"? Little ears?  Sounds like it should be pasta or cookies.
  Actually IIRC there is a French gauffrette (wafer or cracker) called
an oreillette. I havent heard this term in costume or fashion except
to mean "earpiece" as in "oreillette Bluetooth".  What fun, something
new!
--cin
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Status: RO

http://www.theatlantic.com/doc/prem/200705/postrel-fashion
Try the slideshow in the box to the right.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: elastic
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Status: RO

If I remember correctly - books at home, me at work - it took several
years (maybe 10-15?) before elastic moved to clothing and corsets
after its initial use in boots.
LynnD

On 4/4/07, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
> >, a patent for elastic, made of India
> >Rubber, was filed in Patent Office in 1837. In that same year, elastic sided
> >half boots first appeared.
>
> That would be Charles Goodyear who's first(?) business was
> manufacturing boots, gloves, coats & other wearables out of "India gum
> rubber".  I believe his business was formed 1837 coincident with the
> patent.  You're on your own to look up the rest.  I dont remember much
> more than that.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Status: RO

Which is the title of Margaret Scott's new book, though I'm not positive 
she's still alive.  Does anyone know if this is new material, or 
recycled or retitled from one or more of her previous books?

Thanks for any info.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2007 17:43:43 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT
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Status: RO

At 11:06 PM 4/2/2007, you wrote:
>My youngest sister dresses in the "Florida teacher casual" look, I 
>dress artsy/dramatic, and my older sister dresses in sexy or in club 
>wear.  My older sister was born at the beginning of the baby boomers 
>and youngest at the end of the generation.  I don't think I have 
>ever seen my sisters in a business suits or stripes.  We are all 
>very expressive of our personalities in our mode of dress.


My sister has been known to dress in "themes", depending on her mood 
when she gets dressed. She used to come over to my hose and twirl, 
and say "Guess today's theme!"

Sometimes it was fairly easy (the celestial theme was usually easy to 
spot) but not always! It might be the colors that she was wearing, or 
some other subtle clue.

Dianne


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Dress and Fashion 
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Status: RO


On Wed, 4 Apr 2007, Lavolta Press wrote:

> Which is the title of Margaret Scott's new book, though I'm not
> positive she's still alive.  Does anyone know if this is new material,
> or recycled or retitled from one or more of her previous books?

She was actively publishing scholarly articles just a few years ago, and
she is relatively young. The book info page describes her as now being a
freelance writer. The blurb for the book suggests something quite
different from what she's done before; it appears to be focused on dress
in manuscript painting (despite the broadly phrased title). I have a
request in to see a review copy of the book, so I'll let you know when I
get it.

Book blurb is here:
http://shop.bl.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/BritishLibrary/ISBN%5F0712306757

--Robin

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Status: RO

Thanks. I have ordered a copy.

Fran

Robin Netherton wrote:

<snip>
The blurb for the book suggests something quite
> different from what she's done before; it appears to be focused on dress
> in manuscript painting (despite the broadly phrased title). I have a
> request in to see a review copy of the book, so I'll let you know when I
> get it.
> 
>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from Costume-Con
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Status: RO


On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:

> Here's a pic of a few of us H-Costumers at the Friday Social. Yeah, 
> that's me in the red and black. :)
> 
>       http://www.reddawn.net/costume/H-costumecon.jpg

Let's see. I've forgotten the name of the lady on the left, with the doll.
Judy Mitchell is in the white t-shirt. Then me in goth Gothic, Dawn gone
wild, and Tearose. The glow-sticks were being used as admission tokens and
are not parts of the costumes!

My friend Don, who was at my elbow snapping pictures for most of the con,
has just put up a few on his blog. This is an anime blog so he's focused
mostly on cosplay costumes (most of which go right over my head), but
there are others here too, and he'll be posting much more in the next few
days. For now:

http://tancos2.pmachinehosting.com/animelog_comments.php?id=P2991_0_2_0

Second photo is the Best In Show group entry of "Trinity Blood." About
halfway down are Dawn and Tearose as pirates (there was a pirate theme for
hall costumes one day). The pseudo-Munsch picture is the back of a bowling
shirt; some time ago the St. Louis Costume Guild did a series of shirts in
the styles of various artists. Below that is a junior masquerade entry
that won an award for being "Too Cute To Live." I don't know the rest.

http://tancos2.pmachinehosting.com/animelog_comments.php?id=2992_0_2_0_C

These are mostly from the masquerades. Top, Gypsy Ames in a truly
impressive Hindu-goddess-inspired-something- or-other; I was too bedazzled
to note the name as her presentation was a showstopper. A bit lower is a
manticore that also won a top masquerade award; I learned later that the
fellow inside works with big cats for a living, which may explain why he
moved so realistically in that thing. Some ways down, the woman with the
flower in her hair and the dotty dress is the 1940s torch singer who won
Best In Show at the historical masquerade; I was amused to see later,
close up, that the dots on the dress are actually little chickens. Then a
masquerade entry "The Eyes and Ears of Pharoah," and below that a very
beautiful and fanciful interpretation (with moving stick puppets) of the
Hobbit. And ending with Don and me in our Goth-ic, already posted here.

I probably missed some h-costumers in my sporadic IDs. Identify
yourselves!

More to come.

--Robin



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Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2007 17:03:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from Costume-Con
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Robin,
   
  Is there any way we Californians can convince you to visit our area for next year's Costume Con?
   
  Kimiko
  

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
  <snip>
Costume-Con will be in San Jose in 2008, Baltimore in 2009, and Milwaukee
in 2010. I have been asked to speak at the latter, but I don't know yet if
it conflicts with Kalamazoo. Somehow I think the Goth Fitted Dress would
not exactly work for the International Medieval Congress ...

--Robin

 
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Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2007 22:52:29 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FW: The Attifet revisted
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Status: RO

I assume when it says they do not let their faces be seen, we're 
assuming masked from the sides rather than covered completely?  Or is 
there any evidence for veils over the face?

Fascinatingly similar to recent discussions (in the UK) about Muslim 
"veils" - headscarf or face-veil?

Jean



WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote
>Sorry if this is a repost, I donâ€™t see it showing up on the list.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Katherine Barich" <wheezul@canby.com>
>To: <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>
>Here's the quote from page 82 (note the one t)
>
>"Atifet - Cette coiffure sÃ©vÃ¨re, portÃ©e par la veuve de Henri II et les
>dames nobles de Paris jusqu'a la fin du XVIe siÃ¨cle, rehaussait par deux
>petites arcades les cotÃ©s du front et couvrait la chevelure d'un voile
>retombant sur les Ã©paules.
>
>1590 - Le nobili matrone di Parigi non si lasciano veder il viso ... la lor
>acconciatura di testa e chiamata l'atifetto, il quale fa due archi dall
>parte de fronte, coperto di un veletto attaccato con una punta sopra i
>capelli del fronte, e poi cade sopra le spalle, e sotto di esso veletto si
>vedon i capelli ricci ben accommodati (Vecellio, t. II, p 238, edit. Didot.)
>
>[Atifet - This severe coiffure, worn by the widow of Henri II and the noble
>ladies of Paris around the end of the 16th century, elevated by two small
>arcs on either sids of the front and covering the hair with a veil falling
>to the shoulders.]
>
>[The noble matrons of Paris do not let their faces be seen...they arrange a
>style on the head and call it the atifetto, which has two archs on either
>side of the front, covered with a small veil attached to a point above the
>hair in the front, and then falls to above the shoulders, and beneath the
>small veil their curly hair is quite accommodated.]
>
>Katherine
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Dress and Fashion 
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Status: RO

Hi Robin,
   
  When you get in a copy, please let us know your review, even tho Fran already ordered it. I am curious but not enough to buy it until I know how well it would work for me. Fran, if you want to give a review as well when you get it in, please do.
   
  Thank you both,
   
  Kimiko

  
Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
  I have a
request in to see a review copy of the book, so I'll let you know when I
get it.

Book blurb is here:
http://shop.bl.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/BritishLibrary/ISBN%5F0712306757

--Robin

 
---------------------------------
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Status: RO


On Wed, 4 Apr 2007, Kimiko Small wrote:

>   Is there any way we Californians can convince you to visit our area
> for next year's Costume Con?

Sigh. Don't I wish.

(Responded privately in more detail to Kimiko.)

--Robin


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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Status: RO

Ed wrote:

> The end of the mini-skirt no-bra era was a disaster.
> 

For whom?

You are making that whole post up, right? Either that, or you went to school
in a different country from the one the rest of the people posted in!

Gail Finke

(In elementary school at the time -- I don't know what the rules were, I
just wore what Mom gave me.)

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: school dress codes
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2007 20:05:25 -0600
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Status: RO

Ed's a guy!  Of course he would think it was a disaster! ;-)

On Apr 4, 2007, at 7:33 PM, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> Ed wrote:
>
>> The end of the mini-skirt no-bra era was a disaster.
>>
>
> For whom?
>
> You are making that whole post up, right? Either that, or you went to 
> school
> in a different country from the one the rest of the people posted in!



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Status: RO


On Apr 3, 2007, at 8:05 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> Costume-Con will be in San Jose in 2008, Baltimore in 2009, and  
> Milwaukee
> in 2010. I have been asked to speak at the latter, but I don't know  
> yet if
> it conflicts with Kalamazoo. Somehow I think the Goth Fitted Dress  
> would
> not exactly work for the International Medieval Congress ...
>
> --Robin

But think how we could change the whole tone of the Saturday dance, eh?

Seriously, I was disappointed to hear them announce that the  
Milwaukee con will be in May instead of April.  I thought the  
Milwaukee venue might be doable for me since I live in the Midwest,  
and I was going to suggest that they schedule more of the historical  
and ethnic sessions, but I'll always choose Kalamazoo first so never  
mind.

It was a fun weekend.  I'm now inspired to make more and better  
historical gear... and if I ever go to another CostumeCon, I'll be  
sure to bring Conan the Librarian along, too!  (Where else could I  
get away with that?)

Suzanne
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Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:
>>      http://www.reddawn.net/costume/H-costumecon.jpg
> 
> 
> Let's see. I've forgotten the name of the lady on the left, with the doll.

	That is Ann Catelli

> Judy Mitchell is in the white t-shirt.

	yup: I was a rock fan - in my "Viking World Tour" t-shirt (you never 
heard of The Vikings? kinda like The Chieftains, only Scandinavian <G>)

	-Judy Mitchell
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Status: RO

On Wednesday 04 April 2007 12:58 pm, Gilbert wrote:
> According to _Handbook of English Costume in the 19th Century_ by C Willett
> Cunnington and Phillis Cunnington, a patent for elastic, made of India
> Rubber, was filed in Patent Office in 1837. In that same year, elastic
> sided half boots first appeared.

Thank you for digging that up!  I thought I remembered that elastic was first 
used in half-boots around 1840, but I'd forgotten the sourece.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Dress and Fashion 
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Status: RO

I pre-ordered my copy last February from Amazon-CA (best price). I 
received a note from them yesterday saying that the order was delayed.

Beth

At 09:06 PM 4/4/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2007 17:02:00 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Dress and Fashion
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <370352.37987.qm@web32208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
>Hi Robin,
>
>   When you get in a copy, please let us know your review, even tho 
> Fran already ordered it. I am curious but not enough to buy it 
> until I know how well it would work for me. Fran, if you want to 
> give a review as well when you get it in, please do.
>
>   Thank you both,
>
>   Kimiko
>
>
>Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
>   I have a
>request in to see a review copy of the book, so I'll let you know when I
>get it.
>
>Book blurb is here:
>http://shop.bl.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/BritishLibrary/ISBN%5F0712306757
>
>--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Busby Berkeley films
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Status: RO

Penny,

We have a boxed set of BB films - "The Busby Berkeley Collection", 
which has a tag from Best Buy for $48.99.  It includes:

42nd Street
Gold Diggers of 1933
Footlight Parade
Dames
Gold Diggers of 1935
The Busby Berkeley Disc

HTH,
Sandy

At 02:20 AM 3/29/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 02:31:05 -0400
>From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Busby Berkeley Films
>
>Last week during my class I showed a clip of the film "Gold Diggers 
>of 1933" during my 1930s session.  The last song in the film shows 
>the fashions and mentality of the Great Depression wonderfully!   My 
>student that majors in dance and choreographer, fell in love with 
>Busby Berkeley's choreography.  I loaned her my Busby Berkley 
>biography book.  Just so happens, the book has a double-spread photo 
>of the last scene in the film.  She went to her D&C professor and 
>obtained permission to do her senior thesis about Busby Berkeley.  I 
>have loaned her my Gold Diggers video.  But she wants to know if 
>there is a place on the web that she can purchase more of his 
>films.  Does anyone know of a website that sells BB films on video or DVD?
>
>Penny Ladnier,
>Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Status: RO

Ah yes, Its "Vikingarna" in swedish. ha ha.........

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Judy Mitchell" <judymitch@theoldforest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 4:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from Costume-Con


> Robin Netherton wrote:
>>>      http://www.reddawn.net/costume/H-costumecon.jpg
>>
>>
>> Let's see. I've forgotten the name of the lady on the left, with the 
>> doll.
>
> That is Ann Catelli
>
>> Judy Mitchell is in the white t-shirt.
>
> yup: I was a rock fan - in my "Viking World Tour" t-shirt (you never heard 
> of The Vikings? kinda like The Chieftains, only Scandinavian <G>)
>
> -Judy Mitchell
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Status: RO

And ending with Don and me in our Goth-ic, already posted here.

I probably missed some h-costumers in my sporadic IDs. Identify
yourselves!

More to come.

--Robin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I would have spotted Don a mile away but I don't think I would have
recognized you in this ensemble, GFD or not :).

Catherine

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Back from Costume Con
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On Thu, 5 Apr 2007, Catherine Kinsey wrote:

> I would have spotted Don a mile away but I don't think I would have
> recognized you in this ensemble, GFD or not :).

My teenage son declared that he wouldn't have known it was me if he hadn't
seen me come down the stairs in our own house. And several people who knew
me didn't recognize me in goth getup at Costume-Con. That made me feel a
little better about walking by so many other people I should have known!

--Robin

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Status: RO

> Does anyone know when elastic was first used in clothing and how?

I believe Thomas Hancock developed elastic for gloves in the early 1800s and did a separate patent for the machine to make the elastic in the 1830s.  I found this link: http://www.bouncing-balls.com/index2.htm 

 
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Status: RO

I've met you, and I wouldn't have known it was you, either, from the
photographs!
--Sue, who'd love to go to one of these things some day....

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Back from Costume Con


> My teenage son declared that he wouldn't have known it was me if he hadn't
> seen me come down the stairs in our own house. And several people who knew
> me didn't recognize me in goth getup at Costume-Con. That made me feel a
> little better about walking by so many other people I should have known!
>
> --Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elastic
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Status: RO

So was elastic used for women's stocking garters in the 1800s?  If not,=20=

how did they keep them up before garters were attached to corsets?

On Apr 5, 2007, at 7:45 AM, Sonja (LS-LAMP) wrote:

>> Does anyone know when elastic was first used in clothing and how?
>
> I believe Thomas Hancock developed elastic for gloves in the early=20
> 1800s and did a separate patent for the machine to make the elastic in=20=

> the 1830s.=A0 I found this link:=20
> http://www.bouncing-balls.com/index2.htm=A0
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Status: RO

At 15:35 05/04/2007, you wrote:
>So was elastic used for women's stocking garters in the 1800s?  If 
>not, how did they keep them up before garters were attached to corsets?
>
>On Apr 5, 2007, at 7:45 AM, Sonja (LS-LAMP) wrote:
>
>>>Does anyone know when elastic was first used in clothing and how?
>>
>>I believe Thomas Hancock developed elastic for gloves in the early 
>>1800s and did a separate patent for the machine to make the elastic 
>>in the 1830s.  I found this link: http://www.bouncing-balls.com/index2.htm

They used ribbons tied around under the knee. Some of Rowlandson's 
more risque cartoons show this quite clearly. Some late 18th century 
garters are beautifully embroidered, with mottoes and flowers.

Suzi 

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Status: RO

Cin wrote:

> "oreillette"? Little ears?  Sounds like it should be pasta or cookies.
>  Actually IIRC there is a French gauffrette (wafer or cracker) called
> an oreillette. I havent heard this term in costume or fashion except
> to mean "earpiece" as in "oreillette Bluetooth".  What fun, something
> new!

There is some indication that the word oreillette was associated with 
both jewelry and French hoods and other headdress of the 16th century. 
A dictionary from 1611 defines them as “an earing; also, the ear-piece 
of an helmet &c.; the flap, or peece that couers the ear."  One account 
lists oreillettes made of fabric, and other sources have them decorated 
with pearls.

Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: [h-cost] continuous steel boning
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Status: RO

Hi,
   
  Does someone know where can I buy steel continuous boning (7mm or 1/4 inch) that could be used in the curvy victorian corsets? I've ordered it from Sewingchest, but it was too stiff, it couldn't bend easily. At for ex. Venacavadesign they have the right stiffness, but not the right width. 
  I'd prefer European companies, but American are quite OK with me, too.
   
  Thanks,
   
  Zuzana

 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elastic
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Status: RO

On Thursday 05 April 2007 9:45 am, Sonja (LS-LAMP) wrote:
> > Does anyone know when elastic was first used in clothing and how?
>
> I believe Thomas Hancock developed elastic for gloves in the early 1800s
> and did a separate patent for the machine to make the elastic in the
> 1830s.=A0 I found this link: http://www.bouncing-balls.com/index2.htm=A0

That link gave me a 404 error.


=2D-=20
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do." =20
=2D- George Mabry

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] continuous steel boning
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 20:58:43 -0400
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Status: RO

Try:   http://www.corsetmaking.com/

They have a variety of materials to choose from.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Apr 5, 2007, at 10:54 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> Hi,
>
>   Does someone know where can I buy steel continuous boning (7mm or=20
> 1/4 inch) that could be used in the curvy victorian corsets? I've=20
> ordered it from Sewingchest, but it was too stiff, it couldn't bend=20
> easily. At for ex. Venacavadesign they have the right stiffness, but=20
> not the right width.
>   I'd prefer European companies, but American are quite OK with me,=20
> too.
>
>   Thanks,
>
>   Zuzana
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Don't get soaked.  Take a quick peek at the forecast
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Subject: [h-cost] FW:OT  Middle ages tech call.  (video link)
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Hilarious!  (H-Costume) Not really costume related, but for all of us who love researching texts...

An illustration of how tech upgrade help calls have never changed. 


http://www.devilducky.com/media/57946/ 

Gia
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." <ansteorra@lists.ansteorra.org>
References: <001101c76e92$b131cce0$4101a8c0@chass>
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Subject: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations
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Status: RO

On the heels of Walmart's recent announcement of closing down their fabric 
departments comes more fabric store closing news. Over the last week I have 
noticed postings about Hancock's store closings.

http://www.hkfch11.com/ Tells you why.

Check your local Hancock's fabric store to see if they are on the list for 
closing down.

While these closings mean good deals on fabric and notions, the short term 
score truly means that some places will have one less spot to get quality 
fabric. I really enjoyed working for them in my college years. This is 
really sad to watch happen.

Chiara Francesca 

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Subject: [h-cost] The Attifet revisted
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Status: RO

Katherine Barich, who many of you probably know from other the Ren =
Tailor
and German Ren lists, has found a very interesting find!  She has given =
me
permission to repost this message.

=20

  _____ =20

----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Katherine Barich" <wheezul@canby. <mailto:wheezul%40canby.com> =
com>
To: <TheRenaissanceTailo <mailto:TheRenaissanceTailor%40yahoogroups.com>
r@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 12:49 AM
Subject: [TheRenTailor] The Attifet revisted

I hope I didn't send this twice...) - but for SG :)

I have finally found a period citation to the word attifet - in Italian, =
no=20
less. I found the citation listed in "Glossaire Archeologique du Moyen =
Age=20
et de la Renaissance" by Victor Gay. Vecellio lists the term in his=20
description of the noble women of Paris. I've translated for us, but =
still=20
am learning Italian. I continue to work on finding more information on =
the=20
oreillette and have had some success, but will wait until I firm up my =
ideas

a bit more.

Here's the quote from page 82 (note the one t)

"Atifet - Cette coiffure s=E9v=E8re, port=E9e par la veuve de Henri II =
et les=20
dames nobles de Paris jusqu'a la fin du XVIe si=E8cle, rehaussait par =
deux=20
petites arcades les cot=E9s du front et couvrait la chevelure d'un voile =

retombant sur les =E9paules.

1590 - Le nobili matrone di Parigi non si lasciano veder il viso ... la =
lor=20
acconciatura di testa e chiamata l'atifetto, il quale fa due archi dall=20
parte de fronte, coperto di un veletto attaccato con una punta sopra i=20
capelli del fronte, e poi cade sopra le spalle, e sotto di esso veletto =
si=20
vedon i capelli ricci ben accommodati (Vecellio, t. II, p 238, edit. =
Didot.)

[Atifet - This severe coiffure, worn by the widow of Henri II and the =
noble=20
ladies of Paris around the end of the 16th century, elevated by two =
small=20
arcs on either sids of the front and covering the hair with a veil =
falling=20
to the shoulders.]

[The noble matrons of Paris do not let their faces be seen...they =
arrange a=20
style on the head and call it the atifetto, which has two archs on =
either=20
side of the front, covered with a small veil attached to a point above =
the=20
hair in the front, and then falls to above the shoulders, and beneath =
the=20
small veil their curly hair is quite accommodated.]

Katherine=20

__._,_.___=20

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This egroup is based on the website http://www.vertetsable.com - more
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Worked for me.
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Thu 4/5/2007 8:26 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elastic



On Thursday 05 April 2007 9:45 am, Sonja (LS-LAMP) wrote:
> > Does anyone know when elastic was first used in clothing and how?
>
> I believe Thomas Hancock developed elastic for gloves in the early =
1800s
> and did a separate patent for the machine to make the elastic in the
> 1830s.  I found this link: http://www.bouncing-balls.com/index2.htm=20

That link gave me a 404 error.


--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."=20
-- George Mabry

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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robin's Goth Fitted Dress
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 20:27:35 -0500
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Status: RO

It was superb.  I did a double-take and then giggled all the way down  
the hall.

Suzanne
(in the "Breugel blue" peasant get-up on Saturday)

On Apr 5, 2007, at 7:42 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> From: "Catherine Kinsey" <Ckinsey@kumc.edu>
> Date: April 5, 2007 8:14:19 AM CDT
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Back from Costume Con
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>
>
> And ending with Don and me in our Goth-ic, already posted here.
>
> I probably missed some h-costumers in my sporadic IDs. Identify
> yourselves!
>
> More to come.
>
> --Robin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> I would have spotted Don a mile away but I don't think I would have
> recognized you in this ensemble, GFD or not :).
>
> Catherine

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 19:46:38 -0600
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Status: RO

It's more than sad.  It totally sucks.  Pretty soon there will be 
nowhere to buy fabric except online and I hate shopping for it that 
way.

On Mar 25, 2007, at 1:56 PM, Chiara Francesca wrote:

> On the heels of Walmart's recent announcement of closing down their 
> fabric departments comes more fabric store closing news. Over the last 
> week I have noticed postings about Hancock's store closings.
>
> http://www.hkfch11.com/ Tells you why.
>
> Check your local Hancock's fabric store to see if they are on the list 
> for closing down.
>
> While these closings mean good deals on fabric and notions, the short 
> term score truly means that some places will have one less spot to get 
> quality fabric. I really enjoyed working for them in my college years. 
> This is really sad to watch happen.
>
> Chiara Francesca
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
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Sixties Dress codes.(1965-1967....Girls were not allowed to wear slacks, 
jean or shorts to school, thought to be too daring. Skirts had to be no more 
than one inch above the knee, if thought it was,would be required to kneel 
and length would be measured. If shorted the girl was sent home. We were not 
suppose to wear sleeveless dresses or blouses...but since school did not 
have air conditioning it was allowed.
Cheerleader and drill team, no short skirts, they came to the knee also...
Preferred dress code, dressed or skirts and blouses.
The fellows had it just a tough....if they had pants with belt loops, there 
must be a belt. Tied shoes must be tied. All must wear socks with their 
shoes.  In fall many would purchase new long sleeve shirts...by springtime 
elbows would be bare, they were allowed to cut them off but they had to get 
them hemmed.  Hair could not be longer than the collar unless they could 
prove they were a member of a band/rock group.  Some of the fellows who's 
hair did not meet school standards had letters sent home to parents, if 
after three attempts to get them in line the Principal and Vice Principal 
would walk the across the street to the State Trouper Barracks and they 
would do the hair cuts...more military in length than not.
Many in my school were Military Brats and families keep us in line....
Dress codes began to change slowly in Virginia...
After hours dress now that was a different thing if the parents would let 
you out of the house the way you wished to dress.
See attached photo I recently found of a group band from 1968

Everything got more interesting as the years moved into the 70"s, very short 
dresses, just to the fingertips and of course then end of the Vietnam War .

Hope my added thoughts are ok with you all.
Paige


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Subject: [h-cost] FW: The Attifet revisted
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Status: RO

=20

=20

Katherine Barich, who many of you probably know from other the Ren =
Tailor
and German Ren lists, has found a very interesting find!  She has given =
me
permission to repost this message.

=20

Sg

=20

________________________________________

----- Original Message -----=20

From: "Katherine Barich" <wheezul@canby.com>

To: <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 12:49 AM

Subject: [TheRenTailor] The Attifet revisted

=20

I hope I didn't send this twice...) - but for SG :)

=20

I have finally found a period citation to the word attifet - in Italian, =
no=20

less. I found the citation listed in "Glossaire Archeologique du Moyen =
Age=20

et de la Renaissance" by Victor Gay. Vecellio lists the term in his=20

description of the noble women of Paris. I've translated for us, but =
still=20

am learning Italian. I continue to work on finding more information on =
the=20

oreillette and have had some success, but will wait until I firm up my =
ideas


a bit more.

=20

Here's the quote from page 82 (note the one t)

=20

"Atifet - Cette coiffure s=E9v=E8re, port=E9e par la veuve de Henri II =
et les=20

dames nobles de Paris jusqu'a la fin du XVIe si=E8cle, rehaussait par =
deux=20

petites arcades les cot=E9s du front et couvrait la chevelure d'un voile =


retombant sur les =E9paules.

=20

1590 - Le nobili matrone di Parigi non si lasciano veder il viso ... la =
lor=20

acconciatura di testa e chiamata l'atifetto, il quale fa due archi dall=20

parte de fronte, coperto di un veletto attaccato con una punta sopra i=20

capelli del fronte, e poi cade sopra le spalle, e sotto di esso veletto =
si=20

vedon i capelli ricci ben accommodati (Vecellio, t. II, p 238, edit. =
Didot.)

=20

[Atifet - This severe coiffure, worn by the widow of Henri II and the =
noble=20

ladies of Paris around the end of the 16th century, elevated by two =
small=20

arcs on either sids of the front and covering the hair with a veil =
falling=20

to the shoulders.]

=20

[The noble matrons of Paris do not let their faces be seen...they =
arrange a=20

style on the head and call it the atifetto, which has two archs on =
either=20

side of the front, covered with a small veil attached to a point above =
the=20

hair in the front, and then falls to above the shoulders, and beneath =
the=20

small veil their curly hair is quite accommodated.]

=20

Katherine=20

__._,_.___=20

Messages in this topic (0) Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic=20

Messages | Files | Photos | Links | Database | Polls | Members | =
Calendar=20

This egroup is based on the website http://www.vertetsable.com - more
commonly known as The Renaissance Tailor; Recreating 16th and 17th =
Century
Clothing.=20

=20

Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)=20

Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch =
format
to Traditional=20

Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe=20

Recent Activity

=95           3

New Photos

Visit Your Group=20

SPONSORED LINKS

=95           Vin history

=95           Comfort suite at living history farm

=95           Living history

=95           Vin history report

Apprentice LA

Who will be next?

Play the Bix.com=20

faceoff to see!

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You won't believe

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news and gossip.



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Status: RO

On Apr 4, 2007, at 4:54 AM, Judy Mitchell wrote:
> Dawn wrote:
>> I was impressed by the overall quality of the costuming there, and  
>> the relatively large numbers of well-made hostorical costumes that  
>> were around.
>
> 	yup, there are some serious historic costumers around. and in 2  
> years it comes to Baltimore where I'm the Historic Masquerade  
> Director! I'm hoping for lots of good entries, so come on out.  
> We're working on getting a website up, so no url to point you to  
> (reg is $70 til the end of the year).

We're expecting an absolutely huge historical competition next year  
in San Jose. California is just loaded with clubs, organizations and  
businesses that organize re-creation events. The Greater Bay Area  
Costumers Guild, Period Events Entertainments and Recreations (known  
as "PEERS," a vintage dance group), the Bay Area English Regency  
Society and the Renaissance fairs don't even scratch the surface. Our  
historical masquerade team is very well connected in these circles.

Shelly Monson's community/hobbyist credentials are fabulous; she's  
worked numerous historical fairs in the Bay area and teaches  
workshops on many different period garments and techniques. Ellie  
Farrell is the gal who organized and entered "Alice's Restaurant" in  
historical masquerade a decade or so back to prove that it was  
possible to document the 1960's just as thoroughly as the 1560's.  
We're expecting great things from them...

andy


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Status: RO

That's why I have virtually no intention of entering if I 
should make it there.  It looks to be a good one to 
*watch*.

Karen


On Thu, 5 Apr 2007 19:30:34 -0700
  Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com> wrote:

> 
> We're expecting an absolutely huge historical 
>competition next year  in San Jose. California is just 
>loaded with clubs, organizations and  businesses that 
>organize re-creation events. The Greater Bay Area 
> Costumers Guild, Period Events Entertainments and 
>Recreations (known  as "PEERS," a vintage dance group), 
>the Bay Area English Regency  Society and the Renaissance 
>fairs don't even scratch the surface. Our  historical 
>masquerade team is very well connected in these circles.
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from Costume-Con
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Status: RO


On Wed, 4 Apr 2007, Judy Mitchell wrote:

> Robin Netherton wrote:
> >>      http://www.reddawn.net/costume/H-costumecon.jpg
> > 
> > 
> > Let's see. I've forgotten the name of the lady on the left, with the doll.
> 
> 	That is Ann Catelli

Wow. Must be either the lipstick or something about the picture angle,
because I usually recognize Ann! Doesn't look like her here. (Ann, are you
out there now?)

--Robin

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Status: RO

Chiara Francesca wrote:


> 
> http://www.hkfch11.com/ Tells you why.
> 
> Check your local Hancock's fabric store to see if they are on the list 
> for closing down.
> 

They're re-organizing, but it doesn't say why.

Honestly, I don't think I've seen anything in Hancocks I wanted to buy 
for the last several years -- except at pattern sales. And they already 
closed down a couple stores in this area last year. I'm not sure I'd 
miss them.



Dawn


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations
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Status: RO

What I like about Hancock's is their return policy. If you don't cut or wash
it, you can return it. Great when I'm doing stuff for a show and the
director nixes a fabric. Also, I can buy when it's in stock and if it
doesn't work out, no problem.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 10:05 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations


Chiara Francesca wrote:


> 
> http://www.hkfch11.com/ Tells you why.
> 
> Check your local Hancock's fabric store to see if they are on the list 
> for closing down.
> 

They're re-organizing, but it doesn't say why.

Honestly, I don't think I've seen anything in Hancocks I wanted to buy 
for the last several years -- except at pattern sales. And they already 
closed down a couple stores in this area last year. I'm not sure I'd 
miss them.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/5/2007 9:47:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

Pretty  soon there will be 
nowhere to buy fabric except  online


In our area we still have independent stores that mostly cater to an  
immigrant population.  The only thing I don't like about shopping at those  sorts of 
stores is that they tend to ignore fiber content labeling laws.
 
Ann Wass



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT - costume & textile books for sale
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Status: RO

Greetings,

I have three costume and textile related books for sale, all are brand new.

Dressing Renaissance Florence by Carole Collier Frick.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dressing-Renaissance-Florence-Carole-Collier-Frick-SCA_W0QQitemZ250101402953QQihZ015QQcategoryZ378QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://tinyurl.com/3a5c7f

Ancient and Medieval Textiles: Studies in Honour of Donald King by 
Lisa Monnas and Hero Granger-Taylor.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ancient-and-Medieval-Textiles-Monnas-Granger-Taylor-SCA_W0QQitemZ250101401496QQihZ015QQcategoryZ378QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://tinyurl.com/33k8tl

Western European Illuminated Manuscripts by Tamara Voronova and 
Andrei Sterligov the 2003 British edition.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Western-European-Illuminated-Manuscripts-by-Voronova-03_W0QQitemZ250101405002QQihZ015QQcategoryZ378QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://tinyurl.com/2o7pj7

If you have any questions, please feel free to email me at 
gilshallos@comcast.net - thanks for your patience. :-)

Cheers,
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg

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Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2007 12:13:13 +0200
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Hanna Zickermann <h.zickermann@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] continuous steel boning
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Status: RO

Hi,

try MacCulloch and Wallis in London:=20
http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Default.aspx

However, I could imagine that spiral boning could=20
work better because it follows not only the=20
curves of the body but the curve of a shaped seam=20
as well. Wagner-Textilversand has boning in all=20
kinds and widths. It=B4s under "Zubeh=F6r-Liste". http://www.corset-wg.de/
The site German, but I am sure that they will reply English inquiries.

Hope this helps,
Hanna

At 16:54 05.04.2007, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>   Does someone know where can I buy steel=20
> continuous boning (7mm or 1/4 inch) that could=20
> be used in the curvy victorian corsets? I've=20
> ordered it from Sewingchest, but it was too=20
> stiff, it couldn't bend easily. At for ex.=20
> Venacavadesign they have the right stiffness, but not the right width.
>   I'd prefer European companies, but American are quite OK with me, too.
>
>   Thanks,
>
>   Zuzana
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Don't get soaked.  Take a quick peek at the forecast
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Status: RO

 
you could try kleins in london, or farthingales in ontario, canada.
 
both will come up on a internet search
 
debs
 
 
In a message dated 06/04/2007 01:47:24 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Message:  12
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 07:54:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova  <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] continuous steel  boning
To: h-costume <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Message-ID:  <906124.31416.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi,

Does  someone know where can I buy steel continuous boning (7mm or 1/4 inch) 
that  could be used in the curvy victorian corsets? I've ordered it from  
Sewingchest, but it was too stiff, it couldn't bend easily. At for ex.  
Venacavadesign they have the right stiffness, but not the right width.  
I'd prefer European companies, but American are quite OK with me,  too.

Thanks,

Zuzana


 



   
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Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2007 04:35:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: [h-cost] continuous steel boning
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

You could try Handlers fabric in Denmark, the store caters to the teatrical crowd and has boning, busks and coutil. Fairly expensive, but then the danish sales tax is 25%.

http://handlertex.demoshop.dandomain.dk/shop/

You'll find the bones under corsage and lingeri in the sidebar menu under "stivere og planchetter"

Fladstål=spring steel
spiralstivere=spiral bones

both are available in large quantities

It is in danish and the prices are quoted in danish,
They are very helpful and reply quickly, however, this is the easter weekend, so don't expect anything to happen till tuesday at the earliest.

Tania (Denmark)

Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:  
you could try kleins in london, or farthingales in ontario, canada.
 
both will come up on a internet search
 
debs
 
 
In a message dated 06/04/2007 01:47:24 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Message:  12
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 07:54:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova  
Subject: [h-cost] continuous steel  boning
To: h-costume 
Message-ID:  <906124.31416.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi,

Does  someone know where can I buy steel continuous boning (7mm or 1/4 inch) 
that  could be used in the curvy victorian corsets? I've ordered it from  
Sewingchest, but it was too stiff, it couldn't bend easily. At for ex.  
Venacavadesign they have the right stiffness, but not the right width.  
I'd prefer European companies, but American are quite OK with me,  too.

Thanks,

Zuzana


 



   
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


 
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Status: RO

Excerp from news report:
"Last week, Hancock Fabrics Inc. filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy
protection,...."

The other day someone said that they were talking to someone from Hobby
Lobby and that if Walmart does away with their fabrics then HL will follow
suit. If this be true, JoAnn's will be King of the fabric stores and the
only option is to buy online.

-----Original Message-----
Chiara Francesca wrote:

> http://www.hkfch11.com/ Tells you why.
>
> Check your local Hancock's fabric store to see if they are on the list
> for closing down.
>
They're re-organizing, but it doesn't say why.



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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2007 08:45:43 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

I would have said a year or so ago that the reason fabric stores in general  
were hurting is that so few people are sewing anymore.  However, I  understand 
that the popularity of "Project Runway" is leading to a surge in  interest 
among young people.  Maybe, if the stores can just hold on a  little longer. . . 
. 
Ann Wass



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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2007 08:19:58 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I work at Joanns part time and the sewing I have noticed most going on 
is making purses.  I don't know if that will lead to anything else.   
What I'm afraid of is that girls who have never sewn before or sewn 
very little will be wanting to make themselves something to wear, and 
without any instructions, will try to whip something up and find it 
won't fit or they get frustrated by not understanding the directions 
and they quit.  I started sewing at 13 and made an awful lot of stuff 
before I even began to figure out how to make it fit.  Good thing is I 
didn't quit, so hopefully they will stick with it.  One of the biggest 
problems they may encounter is the sizing of patterns.  I try to ask 
them if they know about pattern sizing at the cut table, if I can do so 
without implying that they don't know what they're doing.

Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com

On Apr 6, 2007, at 6:45 AM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> I would have said a year or so ago that the reason fabric stores in 
> general
> were hurting is that so few people are sewing anymore.  However, I  
> understand
> that the popularity of "Project Runway" is leading to a surge in  
> interest
> among young people.  Maybe, if the stores can just hold on a  little 
> longer. . .
> .
> Ann Wass
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at 
> http://www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2007 08:29:51 -0600
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Status: RO

Where do you live?

On Apr 6, 2007, at 3:21 AM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 4/5/2007 9:47:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> sylvia@ntw.net writes:
>
> Pretty  soon there will be
> nowhere to buy fabric except  online
>
>
> In our area we still have independent stores that mostly cater to an
> immigrant population.  The only thing I don't like about shopping at 
> those  sorts of
> stores is that they tend to ignore fiber content labeling laws.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at 
> http://www.aol.com.
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] why not sew?  was:Hancock's closing select locations
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2007 10:31:02 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

There is a sewing show on Public TV in the US, that has a sponsor who's=20
quote is "When patterns fit, people sew."

FITTING, by far, is the biggest obstacle to my own sewing.  I can read=20
about the styles and silhouettes of a Period but can I make my own=20
attempts at construction, FIT ?  No.
I always need another, knowledgeable person, to help with fitting. =20
Even the dress form, with adjustment wheels and "added padding" is not=20
adequate for me to get adequate fit. I need a "tailor"!

Very frustrating.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Apr 6, 2007, at 10:19 AM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I work at Joanns part time and the sewing I have noticed most going on=20
> is making purses.  I don't know if that will lead to anything else.  =20
> What I'm afraid of is that girls who have never sewn before or sewn=20
> very little will be wanting to make themselves something to wear, and=20
> without any instructions, will try to whip something up and find it=20
> won't fit or they get frustrated by not understanding the directions=20
> and they quit.  I started sewing at 13 and made an awful lot of stuff=20
> before I even began to figure out how to make it fit.  Good thing is I=20
> didn't quit, so hopefully they will stick with it.  One of the biggest=20
> problems they may encounter is the sizing of patterns.  I try to ask=20
> them if they know about pattern sizing at the cut table, if I can do=20
> so without implying that they don't know what they're doing.
>
> Sylvia Rognstad
> Divinity Designs and Emeralds
> http://www.d-e-designs.com
>
> On Apr 6, 2007, at 6:45 AM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I would have said a year or so ago that the reason fabric stores in=20
>> general
>> were hurting is that so few people are sewing anymore.  However, I =20
>> understand
>> that the popularity of "Project Runway" is leading to a surge in =20
>> interest
>> among young people.  Maybe, if the stores can just hold on a  little=20
>> longer. . .
>> .
>> Ann Wass
>>
>>
>>
>> ************************************** See what's free at=20
>> http://www.aol.com.
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Or Greenburg & Hammer - but they are in NYC...
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Debloughcostumes@aol.com<mailto:Debloughcostumes@aol.com>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Friday, April 06, 2007 3:49 AM
  Subject: Subject: [h-cost] continuous steel boning

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations
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In a message dated 4/6/2007 10:30:18 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

Where do  you live?



Washington, DC area--and of course we also have G Street Fabrics, although  
even they have really cut back on inventory in the last few years.  They  are 
devoting more store space to promoting their custom-home-decorating  business.
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: [h-cost] RE Historical Fitting
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Susan wrote:
>>FITTING, by far, is the biggest obstacle to my own sewing.  I can read
about the styles and silhouettes of a Period but can I make my own
attempts at construction, FIT ?  No.
I always need another, knowledgeable person, to help with fitting.
Even the dress form, with adjustment wheels and "added padding" is not
adequate for me to get adequate fit. I need a "tailor"!<<<

******
Susan, what you might try is a customized duct-tape dress form.  You can 
google "Duct Tape Dress Form" and find perfectly adequate on-line 
instructions, as the concept is simple--I've used them with very good 
success for historical clothing, so long as the form is taped over your 
historic support garment (corset, stays, etc.)  You'll get a SCARY but very 
accurate double of your actual figure, and then you can "stand outside 
yourself" and do the fitting with confidence.

Regards,
Elizabeth Clark
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com

_________________________________________________________________
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http://games.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmemailtaglineapril07

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE Historical Fitting
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Status: RO

Thanks, ELizabeth.

I understand completely when you say "scary but very accurate double".

Looks like I'll need a dozen rolls of duct tape to get started!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Apr 6, 2007, at 10:59 AM, Elizabeth Clark wrote:

> Susan wrote:
>>> FITTING, by far, is the biggest obstacle to my own sewing.  I can =20
>>> read
> about the styles and silhouettes of a Period but can I make my own
> attempts at construction, FIT ?  No.
> I always need another, knowledgeable person, to help with fitting.
> Even the dress form, with adjustment wheels and "added padding" is not
> adequate for me to get adequate fit. I need a "tailor"!<<<
>
> ******
> Susan, what you might try is a customized duct-tape dress form.  You =20
> can google "Duct Tape Dress Form" and find perfectly adequate on-line =20
> instructions, as the concept is simple--I've used them with very good =20
> success for historical clothing, so long as the form is taped over =20
> your historic support garment (corset, stays, etc.)  You'll get a =20
> SCARY but very accurate double of your actual figure, and then you can =20
> "stand outside yourself" and do the fitting with confidence.
>
> Regards,
> Elizabeth Clark
> http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon. =20
> http://games.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?=20
> icid=3Dflexicon_hmemailtaglineapril07
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations
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Status: RO

otsisto wrote:

> 
> The other day someone said that they were talking to someone from Hobby
> Lobby and that if Walmart does away with their fabrics then HL will follow
> suit. 


I tend to doubt that. Hobby Lobby caters to the quilting hobby and the 
home dec folks -- both a big part of their craft store business. They 
sell patterns, but they never really supplied dressmaker fabrics, so if 
people aren't sewing clothing, it's not really hurting them. Quilting is 
still very big.

Wal-Mart tries to be all things to all people. Unless it's the only 
retail store in town -- and it is in much of rural America -- it's not 
the first place anyone thinks to go for dress fabric. And clothing is so 
cheap there I can almost see why their customers would give up sewing. 
(But maybe not alterations).


Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] continuous steel boning
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Status: RO

Are you looking for spiral steel or straight steel?  I've used the spiral 
steel in the curved seams of a Victorian coset with really good results.

I order from Greenberg and hammer in New York city.

Kelly, in Nova Scotia Canada


>Hi,
>
>   Does someone know where can I buy steel continuous boning (7mm or 1/4 
> inch) that could be used in the curvy victorian corsets? I've ordered it 
> from Sewingchest, but it was too stiff, it couldn't bend easily. At for 
> ex. Venacavadesign they have the right stiffness, but not the right width.
>   I'd prefer European companies, but American are quite OK with me, too.
>
>   Thanks,
>
>   Zuzana
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Don't get soaked.  Take a quick peek at the forecast
>  with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from Costume-Con
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Status: RO

That would be Kali, I imagine. (not enough arms, but the rest is wow!)

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


On Apr 4, 2007, at 8:54 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:
>
> <snip>
> http://tancos2.pmachinehosting.com/animelog_comments.php? 
> id=2992_0_2_0_C
>
> These are mostly from the masquerades. Top, Gypsy Ames in a truly
> impressive Hindu-goddess-inspired-something- or-other; I was too  
> bedazzled
> to note the name as her presentation was a showstopper.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2007 12:04:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] continuous steel boning
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I'm looking for straight steel - I usually make a combination of straight and spiral steel, but the problem is, I cannot find a place where to buy the straight steel (7mm) per metre. 
  Thanks to all that gave me advice, unfortunately not all the corset supply sellers have the size of the boning I'd need. The denmark one looks good, but it is really expensive, when compared to for example vena cava design. 

kelly grant <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com> wrote:
  Are you looking for spiral steel or straight steel? I've used the spiral 
steel in the curved seams of a Victorian coset with really good results.

I order from Greenberg and hammer in New York city.

Kelly, in Nova Scotia Canada


>Hi,
>
> Does someone know where can I buy steel continuous boning (7mm or 1/4 
> inch) that could be used in the curvy victorian corsets? I've ordered it 
> from Sewingchest, but it was too stiff, it couldn't bend easily. At for 
> ex. Venacavadesign they have the right stiffness, but not the right width.
> I'd prefer European companies, but American are quite OK with me, too.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Zuzana
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
> with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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---------------------------------
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From: "Karen Heim" <axejudge@accessus.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from Costume-Con
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

No, it's Vajravahani.  It's meant to be a Mongolian 
interpretation of a Buddhist deity.

Karen
judge, Historical Masquerade

On Fri, 6 Apr 2007 14:55:17 -0400
  Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com> wrote:
> That would be Kali, I imagine. (not enough arms, but the 
>rest is wow!)
> 
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> 
> 
> On Apr 4, 2007, at 8:54 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
>>
>> On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:
>>
>> <snip>
>> http://tancos2.pmachinehosting.com/animelog_comments.php? 
>> id=2992_0_2_0_C
>>
>> These are mostly from the masquerades. Top, Gypsy Ames 
>>in a truly
>> impressive Hindu-goddess-inspired-something- or-other; I 
>>was too  
>> bedazzled
>> to note the name as her presentation was a showstopper.
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] continuous steel boning
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Status: RO

I buy mine from Greenberg and Hammer.  Last time I looked most of their 
inventory was not on their website. You have to get their catalog, or 
contact them and ask.

Fran

>>Hi,
>>
>>Does someone know where can I buy steel continuous boning (7mm or 1/4 
>>inch) that could be used in the curvy victorian corsets? I've ordered it 
>>from Sewingchest, but it was too stiff, it couldn't bend easily. At for 
>>ex. Venacavadesign they have the right stiffness, but not the right width.
>>I'd prefer European companies, but American are quite OK with me, too.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Zuzana
>>
>>
>>---------------------------------
>>Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
>>with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
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Status: RO

http://www.wissner.de/produkte_staebe.cfm?auspraegung=12


Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from Costume-Con
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Status: RO

Thanks! --Ruth Anne

On Apr 6, 2007, at 3:04 PM, Karen Heim wrote:

> No, it's Vajravahani.  It's meant to be a Mongolian interpretation  
> of a Buddhist deity.
>
> Karen
> judge, Historical Masquerade
>
> On Fri, 6 Apr 2007 14:55:17 -0400
>  Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com> wrote:
>> That would be Kali, I imagine. (not enough arms, but the rest is  
>> wow!)
>> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>> On Apr 4, 2007, at 8:54 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
>>>
>>> On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:
>>>
>>> <snip>
>>> http://tancos2.pmachinehosting.com/animelog_comments.php?  
>>> id=2992_0_2_0_C
>>>
>>> These are mostly from the masquerades. Top, Gypsy Ames in a truly
>>> impressive Hindu-goddess-inspired-something- or-other; I was too   
>>> bedazzled
>>> to note the name as her presentation was a showstopper.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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Status: RO

On Apr 6, 2007, at 11:55 AM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
>>
>> On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:
>>
>> <snip>
>> http://tancos2.pmachinehosting.com/animelog_comments.php? 
>> id=2992_0_2_0_C
>>
>> These are mostly from the masquerades. Top, Gypsy Ames in a truly
>> impressive Hindu-goddess-inspired-something- or-other; I was too  
>> bedazzled
>> to note the name as her presentation was a showstopper.

> That would be Kali, I imagine. (not enough arms, but the rest is wow!)

It's Vajra, not Kali. (Yes, I remember the title.)

andy

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from Costume-Con
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Status: RO


On Fri, 6 Apr 2007, Karen Heim wrote:

> No, it's Vajravahani.  It's meant to be a Mongolian interpretation of
> a Buddhist deity.

My fault; I wrote Hindu. Funny thing, I started by writing Buddhist, then
looked at the picture, and changed it to Hindu. I can't keep all the
images straight... Darned impressive costume and presentation, anyway.

--Robin

> On Fri, 6 Apr 2007 14:55:17 -0400
>   Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com> wrote:
> > That would be Kali, I imagine. (not enough arms, but the 
> >rest is wow!)
> > 
> > --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> > scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> > 
> > 
> > On Apr 4, 2007, at 8:54 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
> > 
> >>
> >> On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:
> >>
> >> <snip>
> >> http://tancos2.pmachinehosting.com/animelog_comments.php? 
> >> id=2992_0_2_0_C
> >>
> >> These are mostly from the masquerades. Top, Gypsy Ames 
> >>in a truly
> >> impressive Hindu-goddess-inspired-something- or-other; I 
> >>was too  
> >> bedazzled
> >> to note the name as her presentation was a showstopper.

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2007 16:02:53 -0500
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Status: RO

They do carry dress material, just not as much as the quilting. Though they
do carry more formal/ holiday dress material around Christmas. Their prices
for home decor is the same or more in price with/then JoAnns They have
jumped on the fleece bandwagon and have a better selection then Walmart but
not to the extent that Jo Ann's has.
Most people agree the HL "loves" their fabric (meaning that their fabric is
pricey)
De

-----Original Message-----

I tend to doubt that. Hobby Lobby caters to the quilting hobby and the
home dec folks -- both a big part of their craft store business. They
sell patterns, but they never really supplied dressmaker fabrics, so if
people aren't sewing clothing, it's not really hurting them. Quilting is
still very big.

Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Hancock's closing and Walmart
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Status: RO

Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2007 10:59:00 -0500
From: Dawn 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations

>>otsisto wrote:
>> 
>> The other day someone said that they were talking to someone from Hobby
>> Lobby and that if Walmart does away with their fabrics then HL will follow
>> suit. 

>I tend to doubt that. Hobby Lobby caters to the quilting hobby and the 
>home dec folks -- both a big part of their craft store business. They 
>sell patterns, but they never really supplied dressmaker fabrics, so if 
>people aren't sewing clothing, it's not really hurting them. Quilting is 
>still very big.
>
>Wal-Mart tries to be all things to all people. Unless it's the only 
>retail store in town -- and it is in much of rural America -- it's not 
>the first place anyone thinks to go for dress fabric. And clothing is so 
>cheap there I can almost see why their customers would give up sewing. 
>(But maybe not alterations).
>
>Dawn
   
  Walmart carries garment quality fabric? I suppose it does depend on location. The Walmart here (NW WA) has a somewhat diverse craft department, carries a limited selection of patterns and I haven't seen any fabric there that I would want to make clothing from unless it was a one time use/halloween costume type thing. It seems to cater to quilters and home crafters. However, my MIL used to be the fabric/craft department manager for a Walmart in Utah and she says they sold a lot of dress fabric. I can't imagine they would eliminate the fabric in a location that had decent sales.
   
  Annette T

 
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Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2007 21:06:53 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hancock's closing and Walmart
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Status: RO


>
>
>   Walmart carries garment quality fabric? I suppose it does depend 
> on location. The Walmart here (NW WA) has a somewhat diverse craft 
> department, carries a limited selection of patterns and I haven't 
> seen any fabric there that I would want to make clothing from 
> unless it was a one time use/halloween costume type thing. It seems 
> to cater to quilters and home crafters. However, my MIL used to be 
> the fabric/craft department manager for a Walmart in Utah and she 
> says they sold a lot of dress fabric. I can't imagine they would 
> eliminate the fabric in a location that had decent sales.
>
>   Annette

I've never seen actual clothing fabric at my local WalMarts either.

However, I find it simply astonishing that, apparently, raising a big 
enough stink can even have an effect on WalMart. Where both of the 
store in my town were losing their fabric department previously, in 
at least one of them it will now remain.  (Still nothing I want to 
buy there as far as fabric goes, but it does come in handy for the 
occasional spool of thread...even if going in there makes me claustrophobic.)

Dianne

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Status: RO

This one is from the US - but she had really good rates..

Tell her what you need and what it is being used for and she probably has it in stock, if not - can tell you when she can get it in....

http://www.fabricdragon.com

Katheryne
who loses a lot of $$ to this nice lady ;-)

----- Original Message -----
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews 

> http://www.wissner.de/produkte_staebe.cfm?auspraegung=12
>  
> Bjarne
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hancock's closing and Walmart
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Status: RO

Kahlara wrote:

>    
>   Walmart carries garment quality fabric? I suppose it does depend on location. 


They carry fleece, and shiny prom dress fabric, and I've seen 
pre-smocked sundress prints there, that's probably the majority of what 
constitutes home sewing today. :(

Dawn


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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hancock's closing and Walmart
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2007 21:55:03 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Our Walmarts in NJ have $1. and $2. per yard tables of fabric as well=20
as many cottons for Home Dec and quilting.  They also have some of the=20
shiny fabrics and lots of fleece.

The $1 and $2 a yards are often "mill ends" from prominent=20
manufacturers.  I have found Kaufman fabrics here.  If you don't grab=20
fabric when you see it, guaranteed, it will be gone by your next visit.

Sometimes I find cottons useful for charity sewing.

Friends have found fabrics in patterns and colors suitable for American=20
Civil War dresses!

It is definitely a hit or miss proposition.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Apr 6, 2007, at 9:42 PM, Dawn wrote:

> Kahlara wrote:
>
>>      Walmart carries garment quality fabric? I suppose it does depend=20
>> on location.
>
>
> They carry fleece, and shiny prom dress fabric, and I've seen=20
> pre-smocked sundress prints there, that's probably the majority of=20
> what constitutes home sewing today. :(
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hancock's closing and Walmart
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Status: RO


Never mind dress fabric; I find Wal-Mart indispensible for basic notions.
They have the same standard brands of thread, seam bindings, needles,
cording, etc. as many other fabric stores, but at noticeably lower prices.
The occasional times I need quilting fabric or fleece or other
non-historical stuff, it's there. In fact, I've found quilting fabrics
there in colors I can't find at the fancy quilt-fabric shop that only
carries the current year's "in" shades.

Plus, Wal-Mart is conveniently on my regular rounds; I get certain paper
goods, office supplies, toiletries, medicines, and other consumables there
routinely. There are some things Wal-Mart does very well. Yes, their
clothes are cheap, and if I were shopping only for me, I wouldn't be in
there twice a week. But I have two growing sons who are in and out of
t-shirts, sweats, etc. long before they can wear them out. So $2 t-shirts
and $5 jeans are just the ticket.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hancock's closing and Walmart
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Status: RO

>  Walmart carries garment quality fabric? I suppose it does depend on 
> location. The Walmart here (NW WA) has a somewhat diverse craft 
> department, carries a limited selection of patterns and I haven't seen any 
> fabric there that I would want to make clothing from unless it was a one 
> time use/halloween costume type thing. It seems to cater to quilters and 
> home crafters. However, my MIL used to be the fabric/craft department 
> manager for a Walmart in Utah and she says they sold a lot of dress 
> fabric. I can't imagine they would eliminate the fabric in a location that 
> had decent sales.
>


The one near me (Ames, IA) carries a lot of "one time only" stuff. I've 
gotten really nice quality garment weight wool in solid colors for $1/yard. 
They usually carry dress fabrics, but not for "every day" dresses -- more 
like prom dresses and (budget) wedding fabrics and special little girls' 
dresses.

I've also gotten very heavy all cotton canvas/denim in white and olive for 
$1/yd. When I found the white, I bought the whole bolt. That stuff has come 
in *so* handy.  But like others reported, the selection of quilt fabrics far 
exceeds the other stuff.

Denise 

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Subject: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement 
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Status: RO

After 40? years of collecting and caring for a beloved costume collection, I 
am having a Last Roundup show that can be seen online at 3riversauction.com 
.  This is the first time ever that I have seen all my costumes and 
assessories of antiquity at the same place and same time!  It has been a 
show of over three months preparation; learning on both sides for the staff 
and myself.  I calculate that about one fourth of the items on display are 
80 years or older (which means a lot of hooks and eyes and snaps); this was 
a foreigh adventure for the photo crew!

Any way, I hope you might be curious to see some of the examples I have 
introduced from time to time in our various discussions.  I am merely 
loosing the bulk of all this finery in exchange for a virtual collection! 
And this is pretty exciting to me.

Now, I will gain hours to continue Historical costume for the Eighteenth and 
Nineteenth Centuries...scaled for customers of the Human sort, as well as in 
miniature.  Looking forward to hours of leisure!

Kathleen 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric
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Status: RO

Well, our last competition costume (for Archon 2006 in St. Louis) was 
designed at 11 pm at our local Wal-Mart around the fabric they had in 
stock.  It included black/blue/brown chinese brocade (acetate 
probably), yellow quilting cotton, a variegated brown crushed panne 
velour, and a stretch yellow patterned ruffle trim on clearance.  It 
also included some of the same crushed panne in burgundy and lining 
for same, and light yellow sparkle rattail cording.

Title:  The King in Yellow (from an 1895 horror short story - 
obligatory historical content ;-) )
Result:  Best in Class Master Division

It was built in 2.5 weeks after the originally intended project 
crashed and burned.  If you were at CC25 - my costume was what I wore 
judging the F/SF masquerade.

We also buy bolts of the $1/yard stuff for mock-ups, and sometimes 
find decent generic lining there too.  Not our first choice for 
fabric, but sometimes has "interesting" stuff.

Sandy

>   Walmart carries garment quality fabric? I suppose it does depend 
> on location.
>
>   Annette T

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Status: RO


My photographer friend now has his best selection from CC25 posted in a
gallery. Most of them are costume portraits. The first of five pages is
here:

http://www.tancos2.net/costume2/cc07A.html

...with links at the bottom to the other pages. These are thumbnail pages;
click a picture to link to a downloadable high-res print-quality version,
sized to fit on 5x7 paper if you want your very own portraits. (Don
generally doesn't mind people saving these for their own enjoyment, but if
you intend to publish, either in print or on the web, let him know, and
give credit to Don McClane. He always says yes when people ask first, but
he gets very cranky when he finds his stuff lifted without permission.)

Lots of h-costumers here. I will miss some as I can't remember everyone's
names, and don't always recognize them in costume. But here are the people
I spot right off that the list would know (I know many others but I'm not
naming the ones I haven't seen on h-cost):

Page 1: 
 -- row 1 left, my Goth fitted dress again. Right-click and you can see
	a lot more detail on this one.
 -- row 6 left, Dawn gone wild, a much better shot definitely worth
	clicking on, and then middle, the same group of h-costumers Dawn
	showed us (I think Don took group shots with everyone's cameras)
 -- row 8 middle, Sandy Pettinger, and I forget why there are spoons. Next
	to that, her high-heeled sneakers (suitable for the rock-and-roll
	theme, though I don't think she planned that!)
 -- row 9 left, Margaret Decker, and you can see her wearing one of the
	square red "H" pins that TeaRose was handing out to listmembers
 -- row 9 right, Sunshine Buechler modeling a Norman dress made from my
	design, which she wore so conveniently to my lecture, saving me
	the trouble of trying to find someone to model the one I brought!
	That's me in the white veil. This one didn't come out as clear,
	probably because Don was being inconspicuous and not using flash.
 -- row 10, left and middle, Dawn and TeaRose as pirates.

Page 2
 -- row 3 right, that's one of us. Who? Mary Piero Carey? My lousy
	memory...
 -- midway down, when you start seeing the green curtains behind people,
	those are mostly f/sf masquerade entries.

Page 3 -- more f/sf masquerade entries. 
 -- row 6 middle, I was one of the celebrity guests for the halftime
	entertainment, a costumer's "Match Game."
 -- row 10 left, Ramona (who I think is still on the list?) and husband
	Larry out judging the Orange hall costume contest

Page 4 -- includes entries from the Future Fashion Folio. Note two theme
contests, Red Hat / Purple Dress, and Orange. It was a colorful show.
 -- row 3 left, Pierre Pettinger as "Indian Male Delegate to the Orange
	Ball"
 -- row 4 right, Sandy, isn't that you as "Messenger of the Djinn"?

Page 5 -- includes Historical Masquerade
 -- row 3 left, Sandy again in trademark Tall Headdress.
 -- row 7 right and 8 left, I think that's Sunny Buechler again, in the
	one that won an award in Historical.

I'm missing some h-costumers, I'm sure of it. Identify yourselves...

--Robin
spending way too much time on pictures today






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Status: RO

It's definitely a treasure hunt, but that's what makes it fun.  My best =
finds?  A lovely heavy white moire satin in cotton/acetate for my DIL's =
wedding dress.  60" wide and it was a dollar a yard.  I also found some =
first run reproduction fabric, the lovely smooth sateen hand and =
straight on grain printing for $2 a yard.  I had passed the same thing =
up at a specialty shop earlier in the day for $11 a yard. =20

I also haunt my local Pendleton outlet.  I dropped the better part of =
$250 there today, but that was for a total of 64 yards of beautiful =
Pendleton wool.  I was a happy.  I walked out with nothing every time I =
went for the past three or four months, because there wasn't anything =
worth taking home, at least for me.

LuAnn =20
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger<mailto:costumrs@radiks.net>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Friday, April 06, 2007 9:24 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric


  Well, our last competition costume (for Archon 2006 in St. Louis) was=20
  designed at 11 pm at our local Wal-Mart around the fabric they had in=20
  stock.  It included black/blue/brown chinese brocade (acetate=20
  probably), yellow quilting cotton, a variegated brown crushed panne=20
  velour, and a stretch yellow patterned ruffle trim on clearance.  It=20
  also included some of the same crushed panne in burgundy and lining=20
  for same, and light yellow sparkle rattail cording.

  Title:  The King in Yellow (from an 1895 horror short story -=20
  obligatory historical content ;-) )
  Result:  Best in Class Master Division

  It was built in 2.5 weeks after the originally intended project=20
  crashed and burned.  If you were at CC25 - my costume was what I wore=20
  judging the F/SF masquerade.

  We also buy bolts of the $1/yard stuff for mock-ups, and sometimes=20
  find decent generic lining there too.  Not our first choice for=20
  fabric, but sometimes has "interesting" stuff.

  Sandy

  >   Walmart carries garment quality fabric? I suppose it does depend=20
  > on location.
  >
  >   Annette T

  "Those Who Fail To Learn History
  Are Doomed to Repeat It;
  Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
  Why They Are Simply Doomed.

  Achemdro'hm
  "The Illusion of Historical Fact"
    -- C.Y. 4971

  Andromeda =20


  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
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  =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hancock's closing select locations
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Status: RO

I often wonder if more people who do sew, would offer classes to the next 
generation.  When I am not teaching college this summer, I am lining up to 
teenagers to teach them to sew.  Most of their parents if they do sew, don't 
have time to teach them.  The teenagers have come to me, asking if I would 
teach them to sew.  The interest is because they are tired of the same old 
clothing in the stores.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: "Karen Heim" <axejudge@accessus.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More Costume-Con photos
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Well, there's a shot of me in my Future Fashion Show 
outfit, page 3, last row, middle.

Karen

On Sat, 7 Apr 2007 01:28:13 -0500 (CDT)
  Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> 
> My photographer friend now has his best selection from 
>CC25 posted in a
> gallery. Most of them are costume portraits. The first 
>of five pages is
> here:
> 
> http://www.tancos2.net/costume2/cc07A.html
> 
> ...with links at the bottom to the other pages. These 
>are thumbnail pages;
> click a picture to link to a downloadable high-res 
>print-quality version,
> sized to fit on 5x7 paper if you want your very own 
>portraits. (Don
> generally doesn't mind people saving these for their own 
>enjoyment, but if
> you intend to publish, either in print or on the web, 
>let him know, and
> give credit to Don McClane. He always says yes when 
>people ask first, but
> he gets very cranky when he finds his stuff lifted 
>without permission.)
> 
> Lots of h-costumers here. I will miss some as I can't 
>remember everyone's
> names, and don't always recognize them in costume. But 
>here are the people
> I spot right off that the list would know (I know many 
>others but I'm not
> naming the ones I haven't seen on h-cost):
> 
> Page 1: 
> -- row 1 left, my Goth fitted dress again. Right-click 
>and you can see
> 	a lot more detail on this one.
> -- row 6 left, Dawn gone wild, a much better shot 
>definitely worth
> 	clicking on, and then middle, the same group of 
>h-costumers Dawn
> 	showed us (I think Don took group shots with everyone's 
>cameras)
> -- row 8 middle, Sandy Pettinger, and I forget why there 
>are spoons. Next
> 	to that, her high-heeled sneakers (suitable for the 
>rock-and-roll
> 	theme, though I don't think she planned that!)
> -- row 9 left, Margaret Decker, and you can see her 
>wearing one of the
> 	square red "H" pins that TeaRose was handing out to 
>listmembers
> -- row 9 right, Sunshine Buechler modeling a Norman 
>dress made from my
> 	design, which she wore so conveniently to my lecture, 
>saving me
> 	the trouble of trying to find someone to model the one 
>I brought!
> 	That's me in the white veil. This one didn't come out 
>as clear,
> 	probably because Don was being inconspicuous and not 
>using flash.
> -- row 10, left and middle, Dawn and TeaRose as pirates.
> 
> Page 2
> -- row 3 right, that's one of us. Who? Mary Piero Carey? 
>My lousy
> 	memory...
> -- midway down, when you start seeing the green curtains 
>behind people,
> 	those are mostly f/sf masquerade entries.
> 
> Page 3 -- more f/sf masquerade entries. 
> -- row 6 middle, I was one of the celebrity guests for 
>the halftime
> 	entertainment, a costumer's "Match Game."
> -- row 10 left, Ramona (who I think is still on the 
>list?) and husband
> 	Larry out judging the Orange hall costume contest
> 
> Page 4 -- includes entries from the Future Fashion 
>Folio. Note two theme
> contests, Red Hat / Purple Dress, and Orange. It was a 
>colorful show.
> -- row 3 left, Pierre Pettinger as "Indian Male Delegate 
>to the Orange
> 	Ball"
> -- row 4 right, Sandy, isn't that you as "Messenger of 
>the Djinn"?
> 
> Page 5 -- includes Historical Masquerade
> -- row 3 left, Sandy again in trademark Tall Headdress.
> -- row 7 right and 8 left, I think that's Sunny Buechler 
>again, in the
> 	one that won an award in Historical.
> 
> I'm missing some h-costumers, I'm sure of it. Identify 
>yourselves...
> 
> --Robin
> spending way too much time on pictures today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hancock's closing and Walmart
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/6/2007 9:07:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
goofy4@comcast.net writes:

I've  never seen actual clothing fabric at my local WalMarts  either.




I once scored four yards of orange/blue plaid Indian cotton, perfect for  
making early 19th century headwraps, in the $1 a yard bin.  Have kept  hoping to 
find more ever since, but no such luck.
 
I also buy solid cottons for linings, and I've found some lovely artificial  
flowers for trims at Wal Mart.
 
Ann Wass



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/7/2007 2:11:01 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
luann_mason@msn.com writes:

I walked  out with nothing every time I went for the past three or four 
months, because  there wasn't anything worth taking home, at least for  me.




I'm sure many of us share the thrill of the hunt, whether at WalMart, the  
Pendleton outlet, or the unknown fabric store in the town we happen to  visit.  
Yes, I know they are getting fewer and fewer, but even quilting or  craft 
stores sometimes have suitable prints for some of my projects--I  actually found a 
print for an early 19th century dress at a Ben Franklin in Reno  a couple of 
years ago, as well as a Lacis purse frame.
 
Ann Wass



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Walmart Fabric Dept...
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At 7:55 PM -0600 4/6/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>   Walmart carries garment quality fabric? I suppose it does depend 
>on location. The Walmart here (NW WA) has a somewhat diverse craft 
>department, carries a limited selection of patterns and I haven't 
>seen any fabric there that I would want to make clothing from unless 
>it was a one time use/halloween costume type thing. It seems to 
>cater to quilters and home crafters. However, my MIL used to be the 
>fabric/craft department manager for a Walmart in Utah and she says 
>they sold a lot of dress fabric. I can't imagine they would 
>eliminate the fabric in a location that had decent sales.
>   
>   Annette T

Here in NE MD, the Walmart *used* to have a fab fabric department, no 
silks, but lotsa cottons and polys (the Amish around here use lots of 
plain colored poly for wear). They sold *tons*. If you saw a bit of 
cloth you liked, you boughtit now, because it would be gone on the 
next visit.
Now they are not getting much delivered in so sales are down and the 
Dept will be gone with the next store remuddle :-(
Darn shame as I (and many others!) scored some amazing close to 
accurate 18th & 19th cent indigo resist prints along with some great 
madder prints and  for a while some good feed cloth repros.
Alas all gone with the stupid corp redesign.
Ta
Carol--Totally bummed at the Hancocks closing...Soon JoAnns will be 
the only player left (and some quilt $tores) unless I do a Road 
Trip...
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric
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At 02:10 AM 4/7/2007, you wrote:
>I also haunt my local Pendleton outlet.  I dropped the better part 
>of $250 there today, but that was for a total of 64 yards of 
>beautiful Pendleton wool.  I was a happy.  I walked out with nothing 
>every time I went for the past three or four months, because there 
>wasn't anything worth taking home, at least for me.
>
>LuAnn


I'm not lucky enough to live near a Pendleton outlet, but we do have 
a fabric outlet near me and it's easily my favorite place to shop! 
I've gotten wool blends for $3.98 a yard, ultrasuede pieces for &7.98 
a pound, and linen and linen blends for $4-5 a yard. I get especially 
happy when they send out the 50% off your entire order coupons, 
though my DH groans when he sees them arrive!

Dianne


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Status: RO

Hi,
Thanks for posting,
My favourite was Robins black dress but also the nice cavalier coupple in 
black and white.

Bjarne 


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Status: RO

On Apr 7, 2007, at 2:18 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> The teenagers have come to me, asking if I would teach them to sew.  
> The interest is because they are tired of the same old clothing in the 
> stores.
>
Good for you, Penny!  Good for them too.  You mean they don;t want to 
dress like hookers or as though they are wearing thie little sister's 
cast offs?  (Yes, I'm an old fuddy duddy.)

Susan

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Apr  7 10:48:22 2007
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Walmart Fabric Dept...
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

 
Walmart carries garment quality fabric? 
 
 
*************
 
Depends on the garment....
 
I found one of my fave fabrics at Wal-mart: large,  colorful, realistic 
tropical fish floating in a white void. Made a great  Hawaiian shirt!
 
**************



and now...OT....
 
I saw on Showtime an installment of the Penn and Teller show "Bullsh*t" on  
the myth of how awful Wal-Mart was. Boy...talk about bullsh*t! For example, the 
 "made in a sweatshop" issue [Wal-mart is not the only culprit, I know]. The  
apologist for sweatshops says that usually, in these poor countries, the  
sweatshop is a better wage than anything else, or the only jobs around. Like  
that justifies it. Like that is the only alternative: sweatshops or nothing. 
Hey...Imagine if the  sweatshops weren't sweatshops! Imagine if they paid a 
halfway decent wage [even  for whatever 3rd world country involved] instead. 
And get this excuse! The sweatshop apologist actually said America used to  
have sweatshops too, but we, over time, finally because of them, collected  
enough capital to get rid of them! Pu-leez! Like there wasn't "enough capital"  
in 19th century America. Hasn't he read an Edith Wharton novel? [probably not]  
America doesn't have sweatshops today [well, we're not supposed to] because  
of legislation, not a build up of capital. Corporations would still to this  
day be using child labor had we not outlawed it! [C'mon....you know that's  
true]
Bullsh*t indeed!
 
Then there was "the average Wal-mart employee makes over $10 an hour" ploy.  
Well, sure! If you include top level employees and maybe the CEOs! If you took 
 the average income of all of us on this list, and added into it Bill Gates 
and  Dick Cheney, our average incomes would rise  considerably!
 
Oooooooo....I hate it when they in TV land think we're dumb!
 
OK...end of OT rant...



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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	<000401c7791a$f3d2fd70$c814a150@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More Costume-Con photos
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2007 11:13:34 -0500
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Status: RO

My husband wanted to mug the Cavaliers for their outfits. :)  He's such a 
fop!

Susan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More Costume-Con photos


> Hi,
> Thanks for posting,
> My favourite was Robins black dress but also the nice cavalier coupple in 
> black and white.
>
> Bjarne
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Walmart Fabric Dept...
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Status: RO

Interesting. My son just put in an application for WalMart because their =
starting wage is higher than Sears, where he works now. =20

I don't see anyone protesting Sears, of course.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com<mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 7:46 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Walmart Fabric Dept...



  Walmart carries garment quality fabric?=20
  =20
  =20
  *************
  =20
  Depends on the garment....
  =20
  I found one of my fave fabrics at Wal-mart: large,  colorful, =
realistic=20
  tropical fish floating in a white void. Made a great  Hawaiian shirt!
  =20
  **************



  and now...OT....
  =20
  I saw on Showtime an installment of the Penn and Teller show =
"Bullsh*t" on =20
  the myth of how awful Wal-Mart was. Boy...talk about bullsh*t! For =
example, the=20
   "made in a sweatshop" issue [Wal-mart is not the only culprit, I =
know]. The =20
  apologist for sweatshops says that usually, in these poor countries, =
the =20
  sweatshop is a better wage than anything else, or the only jobs =
around. Like =20
  that justifies it. Like that is the only alternative: sweatshops or =
nothing.=20
  Hey...Imagine if the  sweatshops weren't sweatshops! Imagine if they =
paid a=20
  halfway decent wage [even  for whatever 3rd world country involved] =
instead.=20
  And get this excuse! The sweatshop apologist actually said America =
used to =20
  have sweatshops too, but we, over time, finally because of them, =
collected =20
  enough capital to get rid of them! Pu-leez! Like there wasn't "enough =
capital" =20
  in 19th century America. Hasn't he read an Edith Wharton novel? =
[probably not] =20
  America doesn't have sweatshops today [well, we're not supposed to] =
because =20
  of legislation, not a build up of capital. Corporations would still to =
this =20
  day be using child labor had we not outlawed it! [C'mon....you know =
that's =20
  true]
  Bullsh*t indeed!
  =20
  Then there was "the average Wal-mart employee makes over $10 an hour" =
ploy. =20
  Well, sure! If you include top level employees and maybe the CEOs! If =
you took=20
   the average income of all of us on this list, and added into it Bill =
Gates=20
  and  Dick Cheney, our average incomes would rise  considerably!
  =20
  Oooooooo....I hate it when they in TV land think we're dumb!
  =20
  OK...end of OT rant...



  ************************************** See what's free at =
http://www.aol.com<http://www.aol.com/>.
  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hancock's closing and Walmart
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Status: RO

Having worked one summer as a costume designer at a theatre in a rural 
town in Colorado, I know that there are a lot of theatres in such areas 
that have no other place to buy fabric and sewing supplies than 
Walmart.  I had to drive an hour to get there but I managed to find a 
lot of fabric and trims there to use.  I brought most of the fabrics 
with me, but when I had to make a late 19th century dress that I hadn't 
planned on making, I was able to find some pretty good yellow linen or 
linen blend fabric and some black trims that worked by my being fairly 
creative.  If that store goes out of the sewing business, I don't know 
what that theatre will do.  And I may be in the same position this 
summer, designing for a different theatre in another mountain town.  So 
much as I dislike shopping at Walmart, mostly because of their business 
practices--did you all see that movie "The High Cost of Low Price"?--I 
still hate to see their sewing departments go.

Sylvia Rognstad
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com

On Apr 7, 2007, at 5:01 AM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 4/6/2007 9:07:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> goofy4@comcast.net writes:
>
> I've  never seen actual clothing fabric at my local WalMarts  either.
>
>
>
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More Costume-Con photos
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Status: RO


On Sat, 7 Apr 2007, Karen Heim wrote:

> Well, there's a shot of me in my Future Fashion Show 
> outfit, page 3, last row, middle.

How did I miss that? (I was looking for you in your kimono, I think.)

--Robin

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In a message dated 4/7/2007 12:42:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
luann_mason@msn.com writes:

I don't  see anyone protesting Sears, of course.



**************8
 
Well, Sears ain't what it used to be...partly because of Wal-mart. 
 
But I don't hate Wal-mart and one can shop anywhere they please for all I  
care...
 
Just don't tell me lies and spin the facts.



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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John O'Halloran (our stage manager for next year) took a bunch and 
posted them to his flickr account

<http://www.flickr.com/photos/johno/collections/>

Lots of pictures of Historical and Friday Night Social, less of F&SF 
(none) because he was working the stage then.

andy

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] the Castles  was RE:  Busby Berkeley 
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"The Castle Story"

Irene Castle spent all kinds of time designing the
dresses; Ginger Rogers spent all kinds of time
updating the loathed styles.

I'd love to see what Mrs. Castle had come up with.

Many students of vintage dance learn two Castle Walks,
one a styling to be used with one-step, and one a
choreographed piece, seen in "The Whirl of Life"
(iirc) and modified for "The Castle Story".

Ann in CT

--- monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:

> Wasn't there a Fred Astaire film about Vernon and
> Irene Castle?
> Monica
> 
> This same student is also writing a paper about the
> Castles, a popular dancing couple from the 1910s. 
> 
> Penny Ladnier


 
____________________________________________________________________________________
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love 
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265 
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And one might remember that at least in the 20th C that a Sears store 
opening up did not cause all the other MomAnd Pops to go out of business!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Walmart Fabric Dept...


>
> In a message dated 4/7/2007 12:42:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> luann_mason@msn.com writes:
>
> I don't  see anyone protesting Sears, of course.
>
>
>
> **************8
>
> Well, Sears ain't what it used to be...partly because of Wal-mart.
>
> But I don't hate Wal-mart and one can shop anywhere they please for all I
> care...
>
> Just don't tell me lies and spin the facts.
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at 
> http://www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Walmart Fabric Dept...
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/7/2007 3:19:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:

And one  might remember that at least in the 20th C that a Sears store 
opening up  did not cause all the other MomAnd Pops to go out of  business!



*************************
 
 
They didn't? Are you sure....I mean Sears became big in 1906...with the  
coming of "rural free delivery"



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2007 22:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Edith Reardon <edithreardon@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hancock's closing and Walmart
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I've been lucky at Walmart and picked up a linen/blend fabric off their unknown table.  I also got some great cotton with a beautiful ying yang motif just gorgeous.
  Got some wonderful grey wool off the table one year.  I just don't have time to hit the store first thing in the morning before someone else buys the good stuff.
  Brin

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  Kahlara wrote:

> 
> Walmart carries garment quality fabric? I suppose it does depend on location. 


They carry fleece, and shiny prom dress fabric, and I've seen 
pre-smocked sundress prints there, that's probably the majority of what 
constitutes home sewing today. :(

Dawn


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Status: RO

At 01:17 PM 4/7/2007, you wrote:

>Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2007 01:28:13 -0500 (CDT)
>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Subject: [h-cost] More Costume-Con photos
>
>My photographer friend now has his best selection from CC25 posted in a
>gallery. Most of them are costume portraits. The first of five pages is
>here:
>http://www.tancos2.net/costume2/cc07A.html
>Page 1:
>  -- row 8 middle, Sandy Pettinger, and I forget why there are spoons. Next
>         to that, her high-heeled sneakers (suitable for the rock-and-roll
>         theme, though I don't think she planned that!)

The spoons were from a Future Fashion Show outfit I made and wore for 
CC 8 - except I forgot to wear them on stage!  That one was the "Rock 
Queen of England" and were intended to be punk crown jewels - just 
right for a rock and roll party.  And yes, the sneakers WERE 
intended....I only ordered them off ebay the week before....

>Page 4 -- includes entries from the Future Fashion Folio. Note two theme
>contests, Red Hat / Purple Dress, and Orange. It was a colorful show.
>  -- row 3 left, Pierre Pettinger as "Indian Male Delegate to the Orange
>         Ball"
>  -- row 4 right, Sandy, isn't that you as "Messenger of the Djinn"?

Yep.

>Page 5 -- includes Historical Masquerade
>  -- row 3 left, Sandy again in trademark Tall Headdress.

And my entry for the Orange hall costume contest....

Sandy

>--Robin

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Status: RO

It is my understanding that they brought goods to small towns via mail that 
could only be gotten  in the big cities before.
It is interesting that the coming of Rural free Delivery (USPS) comes in 
about this time.  Sears and Wards were the first to recognize the sales 
possibilities that were pretty much handled by traveling merchants, at least 
for household items.  The demand for the acessability of needful goods that 
were more difficult to deliver spawned the coming of stores and catalogue 
storefronts in towns and villagers. The way of the General Store as a 
convenience store was simplified but not obliterated.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Walmart Fabric Dept...


>
> In a message dated 4/7/2007 3:19:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:
>
> And one  might remember that at least in the 20th C that a Sears store
> opening up  did not cause all the other MomAnd Pops to go out of 
> business!
>
>
>
> *************************
>
>
> They didn't? Are you sure....I mean Sears became big in 1906...with the
> coming of "rural free delivery"
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at 
> http://www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2007 11:08:02 -0300
From: indigolily <k@indigolily.ca>
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Status: RO

for the canadians out there, Farthingales.on.ca <http://farthingales.ca> 
is definetely your best choice. They are incredibly well stocked, sell 
by the piece or by the metre, and sell other stuff like busks, fabric 
and lacing too.
K of indigolily.ca
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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] even more CC25 photos
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2007 17:03:43 -0500
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Status: RO

Thanks, Andy!  I got to see some outfits I missed....
And there's even a pic of me, Friday night (2nd page, 6th row) in my  
tie-dye t-shirt.
Suzanne

On Apr 8, 2007, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> Subject: [h-cost] even more CC25 photos...
>
>
> John O'Halloran (our stage manager for next year) took a bunch and  
> posted them to his flickr account
>
> <http://www.flickr.com/photos/johno/collections/>
>
> Lots of pictures of Historical and Friday Night Social, less of  
> F&SF (none) because he was working the stage then.
>
> andy

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From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2007 07:58:42 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I'm in one of those small towns that only have Wal-mart for fabric.

Some of what I've found on the sale tables there:

heavyweight cotton herringbone twill, perfect for making corsets, $1  
a yard
cotton duck canvas, $1
aubergine crepe back satin, $2
black slinky knit, $1
plaid taffeta, 60", $2
soft black stretch netting, $1
silver and black paisley brocade, $3
batik printed chiffon, $1
cotton gauze, in black, white, natural, and purple, $2
silk chiffon, $2.99

At those prices, I usually buy the bolt, sometimes several bolts.

Margo


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Subject: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
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Status: RO

http://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG<http://image.c=
oldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG>
=20

I found this in the Coldwater Creek catalogue.  The online version =
doesn't have this description, but the catalogue says.

=20

"Marie Antoinette, the monarch who liked her hair big and her shoes =
embroidered, would have swooned over these."

=20

Not a bad heel, I wonder if you could re-cover them ..

=20

Sg
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2007 13:08:17 -0600
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Status: RO

Somehow, I don't think she would have swooned.

On Apr 9, 2007, at 10:51 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> http://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG<http:// 
> image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG>
>
>
> I found this in the Coldwater Creek catalogue.  The online version  
> doesn't have this description, but the catalogue says.
>
>
>
> "Marie Antoinette, the monarch who liked her hair big and her shoes  
> embroidered, would have swooned over these."
>
>
>
> Not a bad heel, I wonder if you could re-cover them ..
>
>
>
> Sg
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing  for Males
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2007 13:35:53 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Sorry I didnt have time to watch that video until now.  Daltry's 
fringed jacket (more a skin-tight shirt than jacket) wasn't beaded.  It 
matched his really skin tight pants. He  looked pretty hot.

Sylvia

On Mar 29, 2007, at 2:43 AM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Sylvia,
>
> Last week must have been Stones week.  I saw a BBC-America documentary 
> about the Stones but it wasn't a concert.  It was about their career 
> until the late 70s.  I didn't see a fringe jacket in that film.  In 
> the PBS show, was the fringe beaded?
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
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Status: RO

Hi Saragrace,
I think the tip of the shoe is two round, it should be sharp pointed. Heal 
is fine, but not the tip.
Marie Antoinettes shoes was rediculous in the movie, i hated them 
all................
But apart from that and some other bummers, i liked the movie a lot. 
Especially all the courtiers costumes, not Marie Antoinettes dresses wich 
was changed or modernised two much.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 6:51 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes


http://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG<http://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG>


I found this in the Coldwater Creek catalogue.  The online version doesn't 
have this description, but the catalogue says.



"Marie Antoinette, the monarch who liked her hair big and her shoes 
embroidered, would have swooned over these."



Not a bad heel, I wonder if you could re-cover them ..



Sg
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Status: RO

I bet you could mask off the white parts and maybe either spray paint or 
hand paint the wood part and then maybe stencil a free form vine/flower 
onto the heels. 

Now, to find an 18c salon event!!

Theresa Eacker


Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> http://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG<http://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG>
>  
>
> I found this in the Coldwater Creek catalogue.  The online version doesn't have this description, but the catalogue says.
>
>  
>
> "Marie Antoinette, the monarch who liked her hair big and her shoes embroidered, would have swooned over these."
>
>  
>
> Not a bad heel, I wonder if you could re-cover them ..
>
>  
>
> Sg
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>   

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2007 15:30:02 -0700
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Status: RO

They didn't have opened toes either did they?  BTW - I hated the movie - I
thought it was completely boring.  I'm not in a position to comment on the
costume of the period...

Irrespective of all that, I think it is cool to see the influence on modern
dress.  Complete accuracy aside, it is a fun discovery when you find
something that may pass for a period shoe.

Sg 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 11:23 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes

Hi Saragrace,
I think the tip of the shoe is two round, it should be sharp pointed. Heal 
is fine, but not the tip.
Marie Antoinettes shoes was rediculous in the movie, i hated them 
all................
But apart from that and some other bummers, i liked the movie a lot. 
Especially all the courtiers costumes, not Marie Antoinettes dresses wich 
was changed or modernised two much.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 6:51 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes


http://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG<http://image.cold
watercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG>


I found this in the Coldwater Creek catalogue.  The online version doesn't 
have this description, but the catalogue says.



"Marie Antoinette, the monarch who liked her hair big and her shoes 
embroidered, would have swooned over these."



Not a bad heel, I wonder if you could re-cover them ..



Sg
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From: Galadriel Lothlorien <galadrielfinwe@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
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Status: RO

This brings up a good point.

Anyone know of any good 18th century shoe sources that
aren't hundreds of dollars?  I'm finding that I'm not
even that nuts about shoes I'm finding on reenactor
sites.  The heel shape is just SO hard to get right. 
That's why I like the slides posted below... but the
open toe is not at all what I want.

Thanks,
--Rachel


> 
>
http://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG<http://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG>
>  
> "Marie Antoinette, the monarch who liked her hair
> big and her shoes embroidered, would have swooned
> over these."



 
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From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement
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Status: RO

Oh, Kathleen,
Isn't this like selling off your children?!  How can you part with all =
that gorgeous stuff!

I'm planning to be there!!!

Kathy Hoover
in Morgantown, WV



>>> "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> 04/06/07 9:56 PM >>>
After 40? years of collecting and caring for a beloved costume collection, =
I=20
am having a Last Roundup show that can be seen online at 3riversauction.com=
=20
.  This is the first time ever that I have seen all my costumes and=20
assessories of antiquity at the same place and same time!  It has been =
a=20
show of over three months preparation; learning on both sides for the =
staff=20
and myself.  I calculate that about one fourth of the items on display =
are=20
80 years or older (which means a lot of hooks and eyes and snaps); this =
was=20
a foreigh adventure for the photo crew!

Any way, I hope you might be curious to see some of the examples I have=20
introduced from time to time in our various discussions.  I am merely=20
loosing the bulk of all this finery in exchange for a virtual collection!=
=20
And this is pretty exciting to me.

Now, I will gain hours to continue Historical costume for the Eighteenth =
and=20
Nineteenth Centuries...scaled for customers of the Human sort, as well as =
in=20
miniature.  Looking forward to hours of leisure!

Kathleen=20

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Status: RO

Galadriel Lothlorien wrote:
> This brings up a good point.
> 
> Anyone know of any good 18th century shoe sources that
> aren't hundreds of dollars?  I'm finding that I'm not
> even that nuts about shoes I'm finding on reenactor
> sites.  The heel shape is just SO hard to get right. 
> That's why I like the slides posted below... but the
> open toe is not at all what I want.
> 

That modern shoe looks like the uppers were glued on. I'm told that with 
a little effort the bottom half of the shoe can be pulled off and you 
can either make new uppers, or cover the modern ones, and glue them back 
together. You might even be able to close the toe.

I wouldn't buy a $69 shoe to do that to, but if you can find the heel 
shape you like in a lower cost shoe, it might be worth the effort.



Dawn

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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <017801c778b8$08390a60$2f01a8c0@IBMTHINKPAD>
	<461A8A1B0200000C003D7DA8@WVUGW01.wvu.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2007 19:14:58 -0400
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Status: RO

Yes Kathy , it is in a way.  But my 'children' need to grow and get on in 
the world.  Some of them have led a very reclusive life...and that is why 
they are beautiful. Getting on in age, myself, continuing the care necessary 
for the preservation and Conservation of such a wonderful collection will 
only become more complicated.  And so, I challenge another generation to 
take up cause.

This whole experience of getting everything together for such a "Swan's Song 
has been very exciting.  I have Never seen all my wonderaful collection in 
one place at the same time.  I marvel at the colors and textures and 
workmanship of the span of history captured in Fashion that has been my joy 
and priviledge to garner and conserve.

I am not yet decided to attend either day.  Several have suggested I would 
not really enjoy the final parting...or that I might consider picking up my 
toys and go home!  I am concerned about Who might aquire some of the 
clothing, especially the antique; much of this belongs in a museum 
setting...especially one that would make the relics available for study of 
fiber and technique of construction.

Thank you for the sentiments.  Be sure and spread the word forConservation 
of antique and vintage fashion.

Kathleen





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement


Oh, Kathleen,
Isn't this like selling off your children?!  How can you part with all that 
gorgeous stuff!

I'm planning to be there!!!

Kathy Hoover
in Morgantown, WV



>>> "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> 04/06/07 9:56 PM >>>
After 40? years of collecting and caring for a beloved costume collection, I
am having a Last Roundup show that can be seen online at 3riversauction.com
.  This is the first time ever that I have seen all my costumes and
assessories of antiquity at the same place and same time!  It has been a
show of over three months preparation; learning on both sides for the staff
and myself.  I calculate that about one fourth of the items on display are
80 years or older (which means a lot of hooks and eyes and snaps); this was
a foreigh adventure for the photo crew!

Any way, I hope you might be curious to see some of the examples I have
introduced from time to time in our various discussions.  I am merely
loosing the bulk of all this finery in exchange for a virtual collection!
And this is pretty exciting to me.

Now, I will gain hours to continue Historical costume for the Eighteenth and
Nineteenth Centuries...scaled for customers of the Human sort, as well as in
miniature.  Looking forward to hours of leisure!

Kathleen

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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2007 16:50:01 -0700
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Status: RO

www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/index.html=20
Don't know about cost, but she can do whatever you want.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Galadriel Lothlorien
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 3:37 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes


This brings up a good point.

Anyone know of any good 18th century shoe sources that
aren't hundreds of dollars?  I'm finding that I'm not
even that nuts about shoes I'm finding on reenactor
sites.  The heel shape is just SO hard to get right.=20
That's why I like the slides posted below... but the
open toe is not at all what I want.

Thanks,
--Rachel


>=20
>
http://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG<http://image.c=
old
watercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG>
> =20
> "Marie Antoinette, the monarch who liked her hair
> big and her shoes embroidered, would have swooned
> over these."



=20
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
________
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! =
Games.
http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=3D120121
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
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Status: RO

Speaking of historical influences, when I was at brunch with friends this
past Sunday, we saw the cutest little girl (7 or 8), wearing the most
adorable child's version of an 18th century gown, complete with petticoat.
The rest of the family was in ordinary "good clothes," and she was in her
best dress.  (Nicely done, too, from what I can tell without being an expert
in the time....)
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 4:30 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes


> Irrespective of all that, I think it is cool to see the influence on
modern
> dress.  Complete accuracy aside, it is a fun discovery when you find
> something that may pass for a period shoe.
>
> Sg


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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/9/2007 6:31:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wickedfrau@msn.com writes:

Complete  accuracy aside, it is a fun discovery when you find
something that may pass  for a period shoe.



*****************
 
 
Those long square toed boots and shoes that look very mid to late 1600's  and 
early 1700's, and are completely out of style now, should be at flea markets  
and liquidation sales now!



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Status: RO

On Monday 09 April 2007 10:58 am, Margo Anderson wrote:
> I'm in one of those small towns that only have Wal-mart for fabric.
>
> Some of what I've found on the sale tables there:
>
> heavyweight cotton herringbone twill, perfect for making corsets, $1
> a yard
> cotton duck canvas, $1
> aubergine crepe back satin, $2
> black slinky knit, $1
> plaid taffeta, 60", $2
> soft black stretch netting, $1
> silver and black paisley brocade, $3
> batik printed chiffon, $1
> cotton gauze, in black, white, natural, and purple, $2
> silk chiffon, $2.99
>
> At those prices, I usually buy the bolt, sometimes several bolts.

Margo's comment confirms a theory of mine.  I think the quality of items sold 
at Walmart varies a lot by location--including whatever fabric they sell.

The Walmart nearest me (Exton, PA--a Philadelphia suburb) sells fabric, but 
the selection is awful; almost exclusively cotton-polyester or polyester in 
god-awful loud, tacky prints and/or obnoxious solid colors.  But the daughter 
of a good friend of mine went to college in West Virginia, and the Walmart 
there was the only real store for 50 miles.  Not only did it have quality 
merchandise, she said, but the store was really nice inside--more like a good 
department store than a low-end retailer.

So I think the fabric departments in Walmarts in areas where Walmart is the 
*only* choice are probably quite good; it's in wealthier suburban/urban areas 
where they're likely to fail the fabric shopper.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2007 20:43:33 -0700
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Status: RO

Was she perhaps wearing an "American Girl" dress, Felicity reproduction?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 6:40 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes


Speaking of historical influences, when I was at brunch with friends =
this
past Sunday, we saw the cutest little girl (7 or 8), wearing the most
adorable child's version of an 18th century gown, complete with =
petticoat.
The rest of the family was in ordinary "good clothes," and she was in =
her
best dress.  (Nicely done, too, from what I can tell without being an =
expert
in the time....)
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 4:30 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes


> Irrespective of all that, I think it is cool to see the influence on
modern
> dress.  Complete accuracy aside, it is a fun discovery when you find
> something that may pass for a period shoe.
>
> Sg


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric
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Status: RO


> So I think the fabric departments in Walmarts in areas where Walmart is 
> the
> *only* choice are probably quite good; it's in wealthier suburban/urban 
> areas
> where they're likely to fail the fabric shopper.

Not necessarily.  :-)

The only Wal-Mart in my immediate area that will still carry fabric after 
this summer is just around the corner from a Jo-Ann's ETC and is in one of 
the country's fastest growing townships. The area is suburban and is 
reasonably upscale. I've found lovely stuff at that Wal-Mart - linen, linen 
blends and other nifty stuff. Most of it was on the dollar tables, too.

And that particular Wal-Mart is just over a half hour's drive from Jo-Ann's 
corporate headquarters and their accompanying mega-store.

kate 


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric
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Status: RO

On Tuesday 10 April 2007 12:05 am, Ailith Mackintosh wrote:
> > So I think the fabric departments in Walmarts in areas where Walmart is
> > the
> > *only* choice are probably quite good; it's in wealthier suburban/urban
> > areas
> > where they're likely to fail the fabric shopper.
>
> Not necessarily.  :-)
>
> The only Wal-Mart in my immediate area that will still carry fabric after
> this summer is just around the corner from a Jo-Ann's ETC and is in one of
> the country's fastest growing townships. The area is suburban and is
> reasonably upscale. I've found lovely stuff at that Wal-Mart - linen, linen
> blends and other nifty stuff. Most of it was on the dollar tables, too.

Interesting.  I stand corrected.

What part of the country do you live in, if I may ask?
>
> And that particular Wal-Mart is just over a half hour's drive from Jo-Ann's
> corporate headquarters and their accompanying mega-store.

Which might help to explain why that particular Walmart carries such good 
fabric deals.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Good afternoon all, I've come back from an event over the weekend inspired 
to make up a Tudor gown from a silk brocade I've got in my stash but I'm not 
sure how it will react to washing. I was going to wash a test swatch but I'm 
not sure how big I should cut it, I don't want to cut too much off as that 
may make it difficult to cut the gown efficiently, but I also want to be 
able to evaluate how the drape is affected by washing, which is difficult 
with a small piece. So for those who regularly wash a test swatch how big do 
you cut yours?
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/





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Status: RO

Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

>  So for those 
> who regularly wash a test swatch how big do you cut yours?

I try to get a couple of inches, and I measure it exactly. I'll trim it 
square with a rotary cutter on a gridded mat to be sure of the size. 
Then I can measure it again after it's washed and see what it does. With 
silk I'd expect shrinkage.


Dawn

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] boning and steel
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Status: RO

Canadians, (Torontonians in particular) have another option as well 
in MacDonald Faber http://macdonaldfaber.com/ a tailoring supply 
house.  They also have some millinery supplies as well.  Before I had 
moved to the States, I found their prices better than 
Farthingale's.  Just my opinion.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:08 AM 4/8/2007, you wrote:
>for the canadians out there, Farthingales.on.ca 
><http://farthingales.ca> is definetely your best choice. They are 
>incredibly well stocked, sell by the piece or by the metre, and sell 
>other stuff like busks, fabric and lacing too.
>K of indigolily.ca

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
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Status: RO

I am a little unsertain how i should cut the panels for the trims on this 
dress i am making:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm
I want to make small box pleats, but i wondered if the trim should be cut in 
the height or could i just cut it out in the breath?
Sorry if i misspelled the words.
Jean Hunniset says that its not nescesary to cut that much fabric for trim. 
She says 11/2 or 2 times the lengt, but i think i should use at least 3 
times the lenght.
I have plenty of fabric for the dress, so i dont have to be carefull. I am 
using a little tiny gold trim in the edge, wich is wired, so its easy to 
make the pleats.
What would your suggestions be?
Thanks for any answers.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
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Status: RO

There is nothing like a child in period costume. I get weak in my knees, 
every time i see it. And if i had children, they would have loads of 
costumes i had made for them.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 3:39 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes


> Speaking of historical influences, when I was at brunch with friends this
> past Sunday, we saw the cutest little girl (7 or 8), wearing the most
> adorable child's version of an 18th century gown, complete with petticoat.
> The rest of the family was in ordinary "good clothes," and she was in her
> best dress.  (Nicely done, too, from what I can tell without being an 
> expert
> in the time....)
> --Sue
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 4:30 PM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
>
>
>> Irrespective of all that, I think it is cool to see the influence on
> modern
>> dress.  Complete accuracy aside, it is a fun discovery when you find
>> something that may pass for a period shoe.
>>
>> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Susan" <sclark935@austin.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 05:25:08 -0500
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Status: RO

Can I volunteer?  You can adopt me! :)  (Unfortunately, I'm a bit beyond the 
child stage; oh, well.)

Susan in Austin

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 3:43 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes


> There is nothing like a child in period costume. I get weak in my knees, 
> every time i see it. And if i had children, they would have loads of 
> costumes i had made for them.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 3:39 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
>
>
>> Speaking of historical influences, when I was at brunch with friends this
>> past Sunday, we saw the cutest little girl (7 or 8), wearing the most
>> adorable child's version of an 18th century gown, complete with 
>> petticoat.
>> The rest of the family was in ordinary "good clothes," and she was in her
>> best dress.  (Nicely done, too, from what I can tell without being an 
>> expert
>> in the time....)
>> --Sue
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 4:30 PM
>> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
>>
>>
>>> Irrespective of all that, I think it is cool to see the influence on
>> modern
>>> dress.  Complete accuracy aside, it is a fun discovery when you find
>>> something that may pass for a period shoe.
>>>
>>> Sg
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 09:47:36 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
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Status: RO

At 09:30 10/04/2007, you wrote:
>I am a little unsertain how i should cut the panels for the trims on 
>this dress i am making:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm
>I want to make small box pleats, but i wondered if the trim should 
>be cut in the height or could i just cut it out in the breath?
>Sorry if i misspelled the words.
>Jean Hunniset says that its not nescesary to cut that much fabric 
>for trim. She says 11/2 or 2 times the lengt, but i think i should 
>use at least 3 times the lenght.

If you are making box pleats, Hunnisett says that you should use 3 
times the length, I.5 to 2 times is for gathers.

It really doesn't matter whether you cut across the fabric width or 
down the length, unless you have a shot fabric, in which case you 
need to decide which way according to how the colour changes. 
(Sometimes you want the contrast.) Many trimmings on original 
garments are made up from scraps of leftover material, so if it is 
not a shot fabric you can use it both ways.

>I have plenty of fabric for the dress, so i dont have to be 
>carefull. I am using a little tiny gold trim in the edge, wich is 
>wired, so its easy to make the pleats.

Incidentally I used a wired trim for one dress I made, and hated the 
way it looked when finished, so took it all off, pulled out the wire 
and did it all again! (Must have been mad!)

Suzi 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
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Status: RO

Dear Suzi,
Again you have ben very helpfull. Many thanks for your answer.
My taffeta isnt shot, so i guess it doesnt matter.
I did play with the wired goldtrim and made small sampler trims and i liked 
the way mine is looking, so ill just use it.
To tell the truth, the trim is just a christmas pressent ribbon, but it 
looks very nice, and i baught yards and yards of it.
Its because it has the look of antique gold, and not the shiny man made 
fiber crap you find in trim stores.
Oh gosh its going to be so boring to make all that pleated trim, it has trim 
all over....................

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.


> At 09:30 10/04/2007, you wrote:
>>I am a little unsertain how i should cut the panels for the trims on this 
>>dress i am making:
>>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm
>>I want to make small box pleats, but i wondered if the trim should be cut 
>>in the height or could i just cut it out in the breath?
>>Sorry if i misspelled the words.
>>Jean Hunniset says that its not nescesary to cut that much fabric for 
>>trim. She says 11/2 or 2 times the lengt, but i think i should use at 
>>least 3 times the lenght.
>
> If you are making box pleats, Hunnisett says that you should use 3 times 
> the length, I.5 to 2 times is for gathers.
>
> It really doesn't matter whether you cut across the fabric width or down 
> the length, unless you have a shot fabric, in which case you need to 
> decide which way according to how the colour changes. (Sometimes you want 
> the contrast.) Many trimmings on original garments are made up from scraps 
> of leftover material, so if it is not a shot fabric you can use it both 
> ways.
>
>>I have plenty of fabric for the dress, so i dont have to be carefull. I am 
>>using a little tiny gold trim in the edge, wich is wired, so its easy to 
>>make the pleats.
>
> Incidentally I used a wired trim for one dress I made, and hated the way 
> it looked when finished, so took it all off, pulled out the wire and did 
> it all again! (Must have been mad!)
>
> Suzi
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] size for a test swatch
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Status: RO

Dawn wrote:
> Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> 
>>  So for those who regularly wash a test swatch how big do you cut yours?
> 
> 
> I try to get a couple of inches, and I measure it exactly. I'll trim it 
> square with a rotary cutter on a gridded mat to be sure of the size. 
> Then I can measure it again after it's washed and see what it does. With 
> silk I'd expect shrinkage.

I'd also expect the fabric to lose a lot of its crispness and get rather 
softer and limper.  I've seen this happen to a friend's brocade.  One of 
the things I love about silk brocade is how much body it has, but if you 
want it drapey, washing will do that.  For a Tudor gown, you might be 
better off with a crisper hand.

Melanie Schuessler

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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 08:02:31 -0600
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Status: RO

That's entirely possible--it had the look of a really good costume--nice
design, and whoever sewed it did a nice job as well (and fabric choice--some
sort of crisp cotton in a non-inappropriate color).  I'm not really familiar
with what's available, commercially, for children, though, so I couldn't say
for sure.  I've heard of the whole "American Girl" thing (dolls and books
and all), but that's about it.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 9:43 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes


> Was she perhaps wearing an "American Girl" dress, Felicity reproduction?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 6:40 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
>
>
> Speaking of historical influences, when I was at brunch with friends this
> past Sunday, we saw the cutest little girl (7 or 8), wearing the most
> adorable child's version of an 18th century gown, complete with petticoat.
> The rest of the family was in ordinary "good clothes," and she was in her
> best dress.  (Nicely done, too, from what I can tell without being an
expert
> in the time....)
> --Sue


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Status: RO

Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> 
> I'd also expect the fabric to lose a lot of its crispness and get rather 
> softer and limper.  I've seen this happen to a friend's brocade.  One of 
> the things I love about silk brocade is how much body it has, but if you 
> want it drapey, washing will do that.  For a Tudor gown, you might be 
> better off with a crisper hand.

You don't have to *wash* it to pre-shrink it, though. Just getting silk 
wet will cause it to shrink. When I did my wedding gown, I just laid the 
folded yardage in the tub -- after testing a swatch -- and it kept its 
crispness.


Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
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In a message dated 4/10/2007 7:28:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

If you  are making box pleats, Hunnisett says that you should use 3 
times the  length, I.5 to 2 times is for gathers.



******************
 
Yes, as you already know, I'm sure, 3 times the length for full-return  
pleats. But some trims are not full-return and have a "skimpy"...but desirable  
lighter look. I'd do a little experiment with a length to see what you  like.
 
On "Last of the Mohicans" the cutter of Madeline Stowe's gown told me it's  
better not to sew the lengths cut for the pleating together but to disguise  
the separate sections in the pleating as you sew it to the gown...y'know, end  
one length with the edge folded under at a pleat and the edge of the next  
length slipped under that....then start pleating  again.



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Suzanne said:... and if I ever go to another CostumeCon, I'll be
sure to bring Conan the Librarian along, too!  (Where else could I
get away with that?)

You could do it at any library conference in North America, believe me, 
we'd adore it!

Mary

Periodicals Department
Stark County District Library
715 Market Ave. N.
Canton, Ohio  44702-1018

(330)452-0665 x 5750   mcarey@starklibrary.org

We don't have issues... we have subscriptions.
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/10/2007 8:28:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Oh gosh  its going to be so boring to make all that pleated trim, it has trim 
all  over....................


******************
 
Where ARE your assistants when you need them????



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <d67.6840e81.334d1cb7@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 20:08:18 +0200
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Status: RO

Yes i think its the best to do two. Jean Hunniset says the same.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.


>
> In a message dated 4/10/2007 7:28:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
> If you  are making box pleats, Hunnisett says that you should use 3
> times the  length, I.5 to 2 times is for gathers.
>
>
>
> ******************
>
> Yes, as you already know, I'm sure, 3 times the length for full-return
> pleats. But some trims are not full-return and have a "skimpy"...but 
> desirable
> lighter look. I'd do a little experiment with a length to see what you 
> like.
>
> On "Last of the Mohicans" the cutter of Madeline Stowe's gown told me it's
> better not to sew the lengths cut for the pleating together but to 
> disguise
> the separate sections in the pleating as you sew it to the gown...y'know, 
> end
> one length with the edge folded under at a pleat and the edge of the next
> length slipped under that....then start pleating  again.
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at 
> http://www.aol.com.
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Elegant courtlife of Frederik V
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Status: RO

I went to a lecture today with Katia Johansen the curator of the textile 
department at Rosenborg. Rosenborg has one of the worlds best collection of 
royal clothes from 17th to 20th century.
The lecture was pure candy for me, i have never enjoyed anything better than 
this. Examples of the fashions in 18th century was shown on pictures and 
later we went to the museum to se the exhibition.
Livrustkammaren in Stockholm had borrowed us the weddingdress of Sofia 
Magdalena, an exquisit french courtdress for the year 1766. Sofia Magdalena 
married the old danish enimy Swedens king Gustav III and nothing was saved 
in expense to show the swedes how rich we were.
Her weddingdress wich was thoaght to have ben made in Paris was lately 
discovered, to be made in Copenhagen. They found the bill and the tailors 
notes.
The highlight of the lecture was supposed to be the showing of a copy of her 
pannier worn beneath the dress, and the female ordiense was allowed to try 
it on.
Never have i ben more dissapointed and embarrased, you should have seen that 
pannier! It was a total bummer!
What was supposed to be the support at the waistlevel to the sides, was some 
large oval hoops hanging from the waist at the knee level. It was a bad 
mistake.
How on earth Katia Johansen could let this happend, gives me no idea, the 
show was a total blast.............
In the bill there is mentioned 80 bouquets of silver flowers in different 
sizes, the price of the bouquets is doubble as much as the dress, but all 
these flowers is missing on the dress, and the mystery is that there is no 
traces of sewing in the dress fabric. So what was these flowers used for? 
Nobody have any ideas about it.
I saw Christian VII's banyan, wich was a love affair to me, made in floral 
brokade, but the flowers was not in colloured threads, in stead the flowers 
was painted after the fabric had ben wowen. It has a japanese cut, very 
simple, but have european style with collar and belt and pockets. Belt is 
sewn to the back and buttons with 2 buttons center front.
If i had somewhere to wear such a thing, i would make it!
I also watched Frederik V's wedding suit embroidered all over with gold, 
made in velvet, and many other suits.
The highlight of the gentlemens suits was Christian VII's weddingsuit (wich 
Mauritia Kirchner copyed), very interresting to se the original. I think all 
the gold embroidery was made on a thin fabric first, and the appliqued on 
the garment after, because i noticed this in the back seam of the sleaves, 
it was clearly seen, that the embroidery was not made on the fabric but 
appliqued on top of the back  seam.
There was a beautifull catalog to the exhibition wich i baught off cause, 
and i think i have to buy some more to my friends.
What i learned from this exhibition watching such a large pannier is, that 
it is narrower diagonally than you realise, and i think also it was much 
more flexible, than you really would expect.
They should have contakted me, then i could have shown them a much better 
pannier, it was such a shame.........

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 14:32:25 -0400
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Status: RO

I live in NE Ohio, roughly 60 miles south and slightly east of Cleveland.

kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 12:30 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric


> On Tuesday 10 April 2007 12:05 am, Ailith Mackintosh wrote:
>> > So I think the fabric departments in Walmarts in areas where Walmart is
>> > the
>> > *only* choice are probably quite good; it's in wealthier suburban/urban
>> > areas
>> > where they're likely to fail the fabric shopper.
>>
>> Not necessarily.  :-)
>>
>> The only Wal-Mart in my immediate area that will still carry fabric after
>> this summer is just around the corner from a Jo-Ann's ETC and is in one 
>> of
>> the country's fastest growing townships. The area is suburban and is
>> reasonably upscale. I've found lovely stuff at that Wal-Mart - linen, 
>> linen
>> blends and other nifty stuff. Most of it was on the dollar tables, too.
>
> Interesting.  I stand corrected.
>
> What part of the country do you live in, if I may ask?
>>
>> And that particular Wal-Mart is just over a half hour's drive from 
>> Jo-Ann's
>> corporate headquarters and their accompanying mega-store.
>
> Which might help to explain why that particular Walmart carries such good
> fabric deals.  :-)
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."
> -- George Mabry
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 11:38:41 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
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Status: RO

>To tell the truth, the trim is just a christmas pressent ribbon, but it
>looks very nice, and i baught yards and yards of it.
>Its because it has the look of antique gold, and not the shiny man made
>fiber crap you find in trim stores.
>Oh gosh its going to be so boring to make all that pleated trim, it has trim
>all over....................

>Bjarne

This sounds like a job for power tools!   Most of us have seen, used
or owned the little 1/4cm pleater (or 1/8th inch) for a standard
sewing machine.  Those are ok for lightweight ribbons & excellent for
fine & lightweight fabrics.

For ribbon, the standard is just too tiny.  There must be some sort of
pleating machine or sewing machine attachment for pleating in 1cm - 3
cm fan & box pleats in grosgrain, satin or velvet face ribbons.  They
do exist for industrial ribbon manufacturing.  How 'bout at the home
or small dressmaker's shop scale?
Know of one?  It would be just the thing.
Dreaming of powertools in Silicon Valley,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

My daughter does as authentic as I can convince her to. :-) I even make her=
 jewellry to make sure it all looks right. (except for the tiara in this ph=
oto set, she thought she should have a proper tiara befitting a princess. :=
-) )=0AJust because it's fun to think Bjarne might get all weak at the knee=
s over the stuff I make just because it's on my little one *grin*, here's m=
y little girl's Christmas concert dress this past winter, based roughly on =
Bia De Medici and some Disney Princess thrown in to make her giddy. :-) The=
re are proper sleeves to tie onto the puffs, but they were just a little lo=
ng at the time and were annoying her, so we took them off.=0Ahttp://picasaw=
eb.google.com/49victor/2006ChristmasConcert=0A=0AShe has a pretty convincin=
g little Norse kit as well that she likes because she can grub out in it - =
its all wool and linen so it washes without trouble.=0A=0AKathy=0A =0AErmin=
e, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or b=
arbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed ve=
rt a lion's head erased gules.=0A=0AIt=92s never too late to be who you mig=
ht have been.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is=
 the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131=0A=0AThere =
is nothing like a child in period costume. I get weak in my knees, =0Aevery=
 time i see it. And if i had children, they would have loads of =0Acostumes=
 i had made for them.=0A=0ABjarne=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      
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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan,
	Was:  Elegant courtlife of Frederik V
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Status: RO

What is this banyan thing Bjarne?  I have only seen it in context of a =
particular type of cloak.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Bjarne og Leif Drews<mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 11:32 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Elegant courtlife of Frederik V
  >snip

  I saw Christian VII's banyan, wich was a love affair to me, made in =
floral=20
  brokade, but the flowers was not in colloured threads, in stead the =
flowers=20
  was painted after the fabric had ben wowen. It has a japanese cut, =
very=20
  simple, but have european style with collar and belt and pockets. Belt =
is=20
  sewn to the back and buttons with 2 buttons center front.
  If i had somewhere to wear such a thing, i would make it!
  >snip
  Bjarne



  Leif og Bjarne Drews
  www.my-drewscostumes.dk<http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/>

  =
http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/<http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/> =



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan,
	Was:  Elegant courtlife of Frederik V
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Status: RO

Dear Saragrace,
I am sure you have seen many portraits with gentlemen wearing a banyan. Its 
a kind of dressing gown or morning gown. In stead of wearing a full dressed 
outfit, a man being at home could have visitors and wear a banyan. You 
usually wore the banyan with your shirt, waistcoat and breeches, but 
Christian VII's banyan was closed entirely in the front, so he could have 
worn nothing underneath :-)
Usually a cap follwed with the banyan, so the gentleman didnt have to wear a 
wig, but its missing in this outfit.

Then i also looked at portraits, thoaght that this time i would exhamine 
very closely, a disgussion we have had on an 18th century list i am on, if 
men wore makeup!
I still believe they used makeup, such pale skin and such rose colloured 
cheaks and lips, i am still convinsed after i studyed the portraits of the 
kings.
Its the german lummieres members, they dont dare to wear makeup, and they 
therefore hold to the fact that men didnt wear makeup in 18th century, but 
they did PERIOD

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 9:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan,Was: Elegant courtlife of Frederik 
V


What is this banyan thing Bjarne?  I have only seen it in context of a 
particular type of cloak.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Bjarne og Leif Drews<mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>
  Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 11:32 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Elegant courtlife of Frederik V
  >snip

  I saw Christian VII's banyan, wich was a love affair to me, made in floral
  brokade, but the flowers was not in colloured threads, in stead the 
flowers
  was painted after the fabric had ben wowen. It has a japanese cut, very
  simple, but have european style with collar and belt and pockets. Belt is
  sewn to the back and buttons with 2 buttons center front.
  If i had somewhere to wear such a thing, i would make it!
  >snip
  Bjarne



  Leif og Bjarne Drews
  www.my-drewscostumes.dk<http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/>

  http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/<http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/>


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200704070155.l371tdtH062844@net.indra.com><200704092014.40971.cathy@thyrsus.com><000e01c77b25$7f81ae00$0202a8c0@Duncan><200704100030.11964.cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 14:45:56 -0500
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Status: RO

On of our local fabric mavens just posted (sorry, north texas news) that 
there were 12 north texas wal-marts doing a huge sale this weekend on 
fabric.

The speculation is that this may be nation wide and that it is the precursor 
to the shutting down of these areas. I.E. what is sold will not be replaced.

Check to see if your local Wal-Mart is having this sale this weekend.

Chiara


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric


>I live in NE Ohio, roughly 60 miles south and slightly east of Cleveland.
>
> kate
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 12:30 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric
>
>
>> On Tuesday 10 April 2007 12:05 am, Ailith Mackintosh wrote:
>>> > So I think the fabric departments in Walmarts in areas where Walmart 
>>> > is
>>> > the
>>> > *only* choice are probably quite good; it's in wealthier 
>>> > suburban/urban
>>> > areas
>>> > where they're likely to fail the fabric shopper.
>>>
>>> Not necessarily.  :-)
>>>
>>> The only Wal-Mart in my immediate area that will still carry fabric 
>>> after
>>> this summer is just around the corner from a Jo-Ann's ETC and is in one 
>>> of
>>> the country's fastest growing townships. The area is suburban and is
>>> reasonably upscale. I've found lovely stuff at that Wal-Mart - linen, 
>>> linen
>>> blends and other nifty stuff. Most of it was on the dollar tables, too.
>>
>> Interesting.  I stand corrected.
>>
>> What part of the country do you live in, if I may ask?
>>>
>>> And that particular Wal-Mart is just over a half hour's drive from 
>>> Jo-Ann's
>>> corporate headquarters and their accompanying mega-store.
>>
>> Which might help to explain why that particular Walmart carries such good
>> fabric deals.  :-)
>>
>> -- 
>> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>>
>> "You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."
>> -- George Mabry
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in
  makeup
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Status: RO

At 20:39 10/04/2007, you wrote:
>Dear Saragrace,
>I am sure you have seen many portraits with gentlemen wearing a 
>banyan. Its a kind of dressing gown or morning gown. In stead of 
>wearing a full dressed outfit, a man being at home could have 
>visitors and wear a banyan. You usually wore the banyan with your 
>shirt, waistcoat and breeches, but Christian VII's banyan was closed 
>entirely in the front, so he could have worn nothing underneath :-)
>Usually a cap follwed with the banyan, so the gentleman didnt have 
>to wear a wig, but its missing in this outfit.
>
>Then i also looked at portraits, thoaght that this time i would 
>exhamine very closely, a disgussion we have had on an 18th century 
>list i am on, if men wore makeup!
>I still believe they used makeup, such pale skin and such rose 
>colloured cheaks and lips, i am still convinsed after i studyed the 
>portraits of the kings.
>Its the german lummieres members, they dont dare to wear makeup, and 
>they therefore hold to the fact that men didnt wear makeup in 18th 
>century, but they did PERIOD
>
>Bjarne

Bjarne

"Fashions in Makeup" by   Richard Corson, and "The Art of Beauty" by 
Sally Pointer, both state that men wore rouge, "British dandies who 
affected the extremes of Continental fashion were known to take as 
much time and care over their toilette as their female counterparts." 
(Pointer using James Boswell - and others - as a source.)

Suzi



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan,
	Was:  Elegant courtlife of Frederik V
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/10/2007 3:40:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Its the  german lummieres members, they dont dare to wear makeup, and they  
therefore hold to the fact that men didnt wear makeup in 18th century, but  
they did PERIOD



****************
 
 
Of course they did! I'm sure a farmer in the fields didn't, but a man at  
court would not have been looked at twice [unless he was very handsome ;-)] in  
makeup and perfumed powder.
 
Remember the gambling scenes in "Barry Lyndon" filmed under real candle  
light? Beautiful!... with men and women made up and powdered...wigs and  faces.



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Status: RO

When I make box pleats, where the pleats touch at the sides, I do it =
three
times the length I need. If you make a drawing, you will see that every
pleat has 3 layers:

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
      / \       / \
     /   \     /   \
    /_ _ _\   /_ _ _\

(hope this comes through correctly)
Sharon
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 1:31 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] pleated trim question.


I am a little unsertain how i should cut the panels for the trims on =
this=20
dress i am making:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm
I want to make small box pleats, but i wondered if the trim should be =
cut in

the height or could i just cut it out in the breath?
Sorry if i misspelled the words.
Jean Hunniset says that its not nescesary to cut that much fabric for =
trim.=20
She says 11/2 or 2 times the lengt, but i think i should use at least 3=20
times the lenght.
I have plenty of fabric for the dress, so i dont have to be carefull. I =
am=20
using a little tiny gold trim in the edge, wich is wired, so its easy to =

make the pleats.
What would your suggestions be?
Thanks for any answers.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/=20


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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 160
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 14:25:34 -0700
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Status: RO

I love the sleeves. How did you do that?
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Kathy Page
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 11:59 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 160


My daughter does as authentic as I can convince her to. :-) I even make =
her
jewellry to make sure it all looks right. (except for the tiara in this
photo set, she thought she should have a proper tiara befitting a =
princess.
:-) )
Just because it's fun to think Bjarne might get all weak at the knees =
over
the stuff I make just because it's on my little one *grin*, here's my =
little
girl's Christmas concert dress this past winter, based roughly on Bia De
Medici and some Disney Princess thrown in to make her giddy. :-) There =
are
proper sleeves to tie onto the puffs, but they were just a little long =
at
the time and were annoying her, so we took them off.
http://picasaweb.google.com/49victor/2006ChristmasConcert

She has a pretty convincing little Norse kit as well that she likes =
because
she can grub out in it - its all wool and linen so it washes without
trouble.

Kathy
=20
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a =
rose
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

It=92s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.
http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131

There is nothing like a child in period costume. I get weak in my knees, =

every time i see it. And if i had children, they would have loads of=20
costumes i had made for them.

Bjarne








     =20
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in  makeup
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Status: RO

Thanks a lot Suzi,
Its also because i bike a lot every day at my job, getting arround to my 
clients, and gets quite tanned in the face, wich doesnt match reenacting 
18th century.
But i wondered what they used in their faces for makeup, powder alone, would 
not hold very long.............
I use a theater stick, wich i take out in  a sponge, and adds this to my 
skin, then i use a powder, on top rouge and sometimes a black mouche. 
Colonial Williamsburg has the worlds most wonderfull white powder wich is 
perfumed, i wished they made a deodorant with that perfume, its heavenly!
I dont use lipstick.
In september i am going to a 2 days event in Bayreuth. Having a danse soiré 
in the princess house friday evening, a picknick to the nearby castle 
garden, saturday and  in the evening we hired the prince suites in the old 
baroque theater, hearing Purcels King Arthur. I just thoaght it would be 
nice, if all the gentlemen would dare to wear makeup that 
evening.................
When i get home from this, ill post you a lot of pictures to see.
And i am preparing to update my costumes for this event. I just finished a 
jacket, wich ill wear to the yellow embroidered waistcoat, this i would use 
for the picknic. then the Tzar Allexander suit for the opera, i have 
finished the waistcoat with the silver spangels. The danse soiré ill wear my 
light blue satin suit with the silver bobbin lace.
My trunk is going to be quite heavy..............

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in makeup


> At 20:39 10/04/2007, you wrote:
>>Dear Saragrace,
>>I am sure you have seen many portraits with gentlemen wearing a banyan. 
>>Its a kind of dressing gown or morning gown. In stead of wearing a full 
>>dressed outfit, a man being at home could have visitors and wear a banyan. 
>>You usually wore the banyan with your shirt, waistcoat and breeches, but 
>>Christian VII's banyan was closed entirely in the front, so he could have 
>>worn nothing underneath :-)
>>Usually a cap follwed with the banyan, so the gentleman didnt have to wear 
>>a wig, but its missing in this outfit.
>>
>>Then i also looked at portraits, thoaght that this time i would exhamine 
>>very closely, a disgussion we have had on an 18th century list i am on, if 
>>men wore makeup!
>>I still believe they used makeup, such pale skin and such rose colloured 
>>cheaks and lips, i am still convinsed after i studyed the portraits of the 
>>kings.
>>Its the german lummieres members, they dont dare to wear makeup, and they 
>>therefore hold to the fact that men didnt wear makeup in 18th century, but 
>>they did PERIOD
>>
>>Bjarne
>
> Bjarne
>
> "Fashions in Makeup" by   Richard Corson, and "The Art of Beauty" by Sally 
> Pointer, both state that men wore rouge, "British dandies who affected the 
> extremes of Continental fashion were known to take as much time and care 
> over their toilette as their female counterparts." (Pointer using James 
> Boswell - and others - as a source.)
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <13557.71259.qm@web52112.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 160
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 23:31:52 +0200
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Status: RO

Thanks for posting Kathy.
She is very sweat in her fine costume.
I remembered one of my studyers, who went to the design school same time as 
me, she made a knitted jacket, in machine knit, where she also plaited the 
long sleaves like you did with the puffed sleaves. It looked so elegant. 
Took her hours to make, as i remember.............

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathy Page" <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 8:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 160


My daughter does as authentic as I can convince her to. :-) I even make her 
jewellry to make sure it all looks right. (except for the tiara in this 
photo set, she thought she should have a proper tiara befitting a princess. 
:-) )
Just because it's fun to think Bjarne might get all weak at the knees over 
the stuff I make just because it's on my little one *grin*, here's my little 
girl's Christmas concert dress this past winter, based roughly on Bia De 
Medici and some Disney Princess thrown in to make her giddy. :-) There are 
proper sleeves to tie onto the puffs, but they were just a little long at 
the time and were annoying her, so we took them off.
http://picasaweb.google.com/49victor/2006ChristmasConcert

She has a pretty convincing little Norse kit as well that she likes because 
she can grub out in it - its all wool and linen so it washes without 
trouble.

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose 
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. 
http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131

There is nothing like a child in period costume. I get weak in my knees,
every time i see it. And if i had children, they would have loads of
costumes i had made for them.

Bjarne









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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Apr 10 17:38:43 2007
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in  makeup
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 14:37:30 -0700
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Status: RO

I use a water based makeup, which I find is less heavy on the skin, plus =
it
washes off with water. Have you ever used this?
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 2:26 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in =
makeup


Thanks a lot Suzi,
Its also because i bike a lot every day at my job, getting arround to my =

clients, and gets quite tanned in the face, wich doesnt match reenacting =

18th century.
But i wondered what they used in their faces for makeup, powder alone, =
would

not hold very long.............
I use a theater stick, wich i take out in  a sponge, and adds this to my =

skin, then i use a powder, on top rouge and sometimes a black mouche.=20
Colonial Williamsburg has the worlds most wonderfull white powder wich =
is=20
perfumed, i wished they made a deodorant with that perfume, its =
heavenly!
I dont use lipstick.
In september i am going to a 2 days event in Bayreuth. Having a danse =
soir=E9=20
in the princess house friday evening, a picknick to the nearby castle=20
garden, saturday and  in the evening we hired the prince suites in the =
old=20
baroque theater, hearing Purcels King Arthur. I just thoaght it would be =

nice, if all the gentlemen would dare to wear makeup that=20
evening.................
When i get home from this, ill post you a lot of pictures to see.
And i am preparing to update my costumes for this event. I just finished =
a=20
jacket, wich ill wear to the yellow embroidered waistcoat, this i would =
use=20
for the picknic. then the Tzar Allexander suit for the opera, i have=20
finished the waistcoat with the silver spangels. The danse soir=E9 ill =
wear my

light blue satin suit with the silver bobbin lace.
My trunk is going to be quite heavy..............

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in =
makeup


> At 20:39 10/04/2007, you wrote:
>>Dear Saragrace,
>>I am sure you have seen many portraits with gentlemen wearing a =
banyan.=20
>>Its a kind of dressing gown or morning gown. In stead of wearing a =
full=20
>>dressed outfit, a man being at home could have visitors and wear a =
banyan.

>>You usually wore the banyan with your shirt, waistcoat and breeches, =
but=20
>>Christian VII's banyan was closed entirely in the front, so he could =
have=20
>>worn nothing underneath :-)
>>Usually a cap follwed with the banyan, so the gentleman didnt have to =
wear

>>a wig, but its missing in this outfit.
>>
>>Then i also looked at portraits, thoaght that this time i would =
exhamine=20
>>very closely, a disgussion we have had on an 18th century list i am =
on, if

>>men wore makeup!
>>I still believe they used makeup, such pale skin and such rose =
colloured=20
>>cheaks and lips, i am still convinsed after i studyed the portraits of =
the

>>kings.
>>Its the german lummieres members, they dont dare to wear makeup, and =
they=20
>>therefore hold to the fact that men didnt wear makeup in 18th century, =
but

>>they did PERIOD
>>
>>Bjarne
>
> Bjarne
>
> "Fashions in Makeup" by   Richard Corson, and "The Art of Beauty" by =
Sally

> Pointer, both state that men wore rouge, "British dandies who affected =
the

> extremes of Continental fashion were known to take as much time and =
care=20
> over their toilette as their female counterparts." (Pointer using =
James=20
> Boswell - and others - as a source.)
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>=20


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elegant courtlife of Frederik V
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/10/2007 2:32:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

There  was a beautifull catalog to the exhibition wich i baught off cause, 
and i  think i have to buy some more to my friends.




Can we get one? Not from you...but the museum or  something...



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in  makeup
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 17:58:19 -0400
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Status: RO

I and my actors use that too. Stein's theatrical makeup used to =20
(probably still does, but I bought mine some time ago--I don't get to =20=

act much and so it has lasted a long time!) make a very nice water-=20
base pancake foundation, and a lot of the foundation makeup now being =20=

sold in cosmetics shops for ordinary use not unlike that. The Stein's =20=

was a solid that you wet with water and then applied with a sponge; =20
this later commercial makeup is more like a cream that goes on with a =20=

sponge and dries like a cool powder. It stays cool on the face, which =20=

is a BIG advantage over the greasepaint (the theater stick). It also =20
holds other applied makeup such as rouge, eye shadow, eye liner, =20
etc., very well. And yes, comes off with water instead of cold cream. =20=

You can get it in a lot of shades including very pale.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


On Apr 10, 2007, at 5:37 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> I use a water based makeup, which I find is less heavy on the skin, =20=

> plus it
> washes off with water. Have you ever used this?
> Sharon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-=20
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 2:26 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men =20
> in makeup
>
>
> Thanks a lot Suzi,
> Its also because i bike a lot every day at my job, getting arround =20
> to my
> clients, and gets quite tanned in the face, wich doesnt match =20
> reenacting
> 18th century.
> But i wondered what they used in their faces for makeup, powder =20
> alone, would
>
> not hold very long.............
> I use a theater stick, wich i take out in  a sponge, and adds this =20
> to my
> skin, then i use a powder, on top rouge and sometimes a black mouche.
> Colonial Williamsburg has the worlds most wonderfull white powder =20
> wich is
> perfumed, i wished they made a deodorant with that perfume, its =20
> heavenly!
> I dont use lipstick.
> In september i am going to a 2 days event in Bayreuth. Having a =20
> danse soir=E9
> in the princess house friday evening, a picknick to the nearby castle
> garden, saturday and  in the evening we hired the prince suites in =20
> the old
> baroque theater, hearing Purcels King Arthur. I just thoaght it =20
> would be
> nice, if all the gentlemen would dare to wear makeup that
> evening.................
> When i get home from this, ill post you a lot of pictures to see.
> And i am preparing to update my costumes for this event. I just =20
> finished a
> jacket, wich ill wear to the yellow embroidered waistcoat, this i =20
> would use
> for the picknic. then the Tzar Allexander suit for the opera, i have
> finished the waistcoat with the silver spangels. The danse soir=E9 =20
> ill wear my
>
> light blue satin suit with the silver bobbin lace.
> My trunk is going to be quite heavy..............
>
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 9:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men =20
> in makeup
>
>
>> At 20:39 10/04/2007, you wrote:
>>> Dear Saragrace,
>>> I am sure you have seen many portraits with gentlemen wearing a =20
>>> banyan.
>>> Its a kind of dressing gown or morning gown. In stead of wearing =20
>>> a full
>>> dressed outfit, a man being at home could have visitors and wear =20
>>> a banyan.
>
>>> You usually wore the banyan with your shirt, waistcoat and =20
>>> breeches, but
>>> Christian VII's banyan was closed entirely in the front, so he =20
>>> could have
>>> worn nothing underneath :-)
>>> Usually a cap follwed with the banyan, so the gentleman didnt =20
>>> have to wear
>
>>> a wig, but its missing in this outfit.
>>>
>>> Then i also looked at portraits, thoaght that this time i would =20
>>> exhamine
>>> very closely, a disgussion we have had on an 18th century list i =20
>>> am on, if
>
>>> men wore makeup!
>>> I still believe they used makeup, such pale skin and such rose =20
>>> colloured
>>> cheaks and lips, i am still convinsed after i studyed the =20
>>> portraits of the
>
>>> kings.
>>> Its the german lummieres members, they dont dare to wear makeup, =20
>>> and they
>>> therefore hold to the fact that men didnt wear makeup in 18th =20
>>> century, but
>
>>> they did PERIOD
>>>
>>> Bjarne
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>> "Fashions in Makeup" by   Richard Corson, and "The Art of Beauty" =20
>> by Sally
>
>> Pointer, both state that men wore rouge, "British dandies who =20
>> affected the
>
>> extremes of Continental fashion were known to take as much time =20
>> and care
>> over their toilette as their female counterparts." (Pointer using =20
>> James
>> Boswell - and others - as a source.)
>>
>> Suzi
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 14:23:09 -0700
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Status: RO

American Girl had clothes for real girls, just like the doll clothes. I
don't know if they still do, though. My daughter is 21 now. She wants =
better
costumes. AND she even took a sewing class, so I "help" now, instead of
having to do the whole thing!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 7:03 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes


That's entirely possible--it had the look of a really good costume--nice
design, and whoever sewed it did a nice job as well (and fabric =
choice--some
sort of crisp cotton in a non-inappropriate color).  I'm not really =
familiar
with what's available, commercially, for children, though, so I couldn't =
say
for sure.  I've heard of the whole "American Girl" thing (dolls and =
books
and all), but that's about it.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 9:43 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes


> Was she perhaps wearing an "American Girl" dress, Felicity =
reproduction?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
> Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 6:40 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
>
>
> Speaking of historical influences, when I was at brunch with friends =
this
> past Sunday, we saw the cutest little girl (7 or 8), wearing the most
> adorable child's version of an 18th century gown, complete with =
petticoat.
> The rest of the family was in ordinary "good clothes," and she was in =
her
> best dress.  (Nicely done, too, from what I can tell without being an
expert
> in the time....)
> --Sue


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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in  makeup
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 15:19:32 -0700
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Status: RO

On Apr 10, 2007, at 2:37 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
> I use a water based makeup, which I find is less heavy on the skin,  
> plus it
> washes off with water. Have you ever used this?
> Sharon


I love the Grimas water-based "face paint" from the Netherlands (I  
mail-order it from a shop in the UK). It's very versatile, and very  
sturdy. Best of all, jump in the shower and a bit of soap or shampoo  
takes it off completely.

andy


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in makeup
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Status: RO

At 23:19 10/04/2007, you wrote:
>On Apr 10, 2007, at 2:37 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
>>I use a water based makeup, which I find is less heavy on the skin,
>>plus it
>>washes off with water. Have you ever used this?
>>Sharon
>
>
>I love the Grimas water-based "face paint" from the Netherlands (I
>mail-order it from a shop in the UK). It's very versatile, and very
>sturdy. Best of all, jump in the shower and a bit of soap or shampoo
>takes it off completely.
>
>andy


Andy

Is that Fox's Makeup shop?

I used Leichner for Kryolan for TV shoots, but nowadays most makeup 
girls use modern makeup for everyday clothes, and Dermablend for some 
more complicated blending. It's a while since I bought anything so 
need to update my box.

Suzi

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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in makeup
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 16:47:35 -0700
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Status: RO


On Apr 10, 2007, at 4:32 PM, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> At 23:19 10/04/2007, you wrote:
>> On Apr 10, 2007, at 2:37 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
>>> I use a water based makeup, which I find is less heavy on the skin,
>>> plus it
>>> washes off with water. Have you ever used this?
>>> Sharon
>>
>>
>> I love the Grimas water-based "face paint" from the Netherlands (I
>> mail-order it from a shop in the UK). It's very versatile, and very
>> sturdy. Best of all, jump in the shower and a bit of soap or shampoo
>> takes it off completely.
>>
>> andy
>
>
> Andy
>
> Is that Fox's Makeup shop?

1st Night in Milton Keynes. They've got an online shop at <http:// 
www.showmakeup.co.uk/>. They were recommended to me by the Grimas  
wholesaler. They've got the whole line (water and grease). Only thing  
Grimas makes that's crap is their stage blood; the rest is great.

andy
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 20:09:53 -0400
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Status: RO

On Tuesday 10 April 2007 2:32 pm, Ailith Mackintosh wrote:
> I live in NE Ohio, roughly 60 miles south and slightly east of Cleveland.

Interesting.  Thanks!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]CostumeCon, now OT librarian in-jokes
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 19:14:58 -0500
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Status: RO

I've obviously been attending the *wrong* conferences!  [Although the  
"poster committee" for Technical Services did place a "Warrior  
Librarians" poster in the hall outside my door....]

Mary, I love your tag line.

Suzanne LeSar
Acquisitions Coordinator
Parks Library, Iowa State University

On Apr 10, 2007, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> Suzanne said:... and if I ever go to another CostumeCon, I'll be
> sure to bring Conan the Librarian along, too!  (Where else could I
> get away with that?)
>
> You could do it at any library conference in North America, believe  
> me, we'd adore it!
>
> Mary
>
> Periodicals Department
> Stark County District Library
> 715 Market Ave. N.
> Canton, Ohio  44702-1018
>
> (330)452-0665 x 5750   mcarey@starklibrary.org
>
> We don't have issues... we have subscriptions.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
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Status: RO

 
> For ribbon, the standard is just too tiny.  There must be some sort of
> pleating machine or sewing machine attachment for pleating in 1cm - 3
> cm fan & box pleats in grosgrain, satin or velvet face ribbons.  They
> do exist for industrial ribbon manufacturing.  How 'bout at the home
> or small dressmaker's shop scale?
> Know of one?  It would be just the thing.
> Dreaming of powertools in Silicon Valley,

Why, yes! I have one!  Let me find a picture.  Here!  What it looks like and how
to use it! http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-07.html

It's seriously cool.  

Emma


http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
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Status: RO

On Apr 10, 2007, at 6:06 PM, 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:
>> For ribbon, the standard is just too tiny.  There must be some  
>> sort of
>> pleating machine or sewing machine attachment for pleating in 1cm - 3
>> cm fan & box pleats in grosgrain, satin or velvet face ribbons.  They
>> do exist for industrial ribbon manufacturing.  How 'bout at the home
>> or small dressmaker's shop scale?
>> Know of one?  It would be just the thing.
>> Dreaming of powertools in Silicon Valley,
>
> Why, yes! I have one!  Let me find a picture.  Here!  What it looks  
> like and how
> to use it! http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-07.html

I've got a ruffler foot just like that.
<http://www.bovil.com/index.php? 
option=com_gallery2&Itemid=47&g2_itemId=2624>
It can do maybe 1cm ruffles. Nothing big.

For serious ruffles, you want a Johnson Ruffler.
<http://www.johnsonrufflingmachines.com/>

Neither, though, really creates pleats, and neither is great on heavy- 
ish material. Every ruffler foot I've seen would choke on grosgrain  
ribbon, and a Johnson Ruffler would probably need a reinforced  
ruffler arm.

andy
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Status: RO

Anyone know for sure if these are eyelets or buttons?  Is there a cord =
running through the center holes or is there a cord wrapped around the =
"button"?

http://www.wga.hu/art/r/raphael/2firenze/1/31doni2.jpg<http://www.wga.hu/=
art/r/raphael/2firenze/1/31doni2.jpg>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
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Status: RO


> Neither, though, really creates pleats, and neither is great on heavy-
> ish material. Every ruffler foot I've seen would choke on grosgrain  
> ribbon, and a Johnson Ruffler would probably need a reinforced  
> ruffler arm.

I used mine to pleat a medium-weight damask for a bed ruffle.  Just straight
knife pleats, but nice and even, 1/2" deep.  I don't think mine would have a
problem with grosgrain.  But it's an elderly Singer attachment, designed for
elderly Singer machines that can sew through darn near anything.

Emma


http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/ now men in makeup
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Status: RO

For stage lighting I tell my danseurs (www.danselibre.org) to hit the
theatrical makeup dept.  Most of our performances dont require that
intense coloring - we're in normally lit ballrooms & public spaces or
even a gym at Stanford, so I send them to the mall to find workout
makeup.  Clinique has good stuff, relatively comedeogenic (no zits!)
and stays in place for a 4 hour dance rehearsal, performance or an
evening of dancing.

I suspect most of the women dont even bother with theatrical anymore.
We just use theatrical application rules with workout fashion makeup.
(I think the guys do theatrical... so they dont have to visit the
Maybeline & Revlon counters. <grin>) We're sticking to the 19th &
early 20th century fashions.

 I've never tried to do 18th c makeup styles with fashion makeup.
Curious to hear how the experiments go,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com



>I and my actors use that too. Stein's theatrical makeup used to
>(probably still does, but I bought mine some time ago--I don't get to
>act much and so it has lasted a long time!) make a very nice water-
>base pancake foundation, and a lot of the foundation makeup now being
>sold in cosmetics shops for ordinary use not unlike that. The Stein's
>was a solid that you wet with water and then applied with a sponge;
>this later commercial makeup is more like a cream that goes on with a
>sponge and dries like a cool powder. It stays cool on the face, which
>is a BIG advantage over the greasepaint (the theater stick). It also
>holds other applied makeup such as rouge, eye shadow, eye liner,
etc., very well. And yes, comes off with water instead of cold cream.
>You can get it in a lot of shades including very pale.

>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eyelets or Buttons-
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/10/2007 9:45:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wickedfrau@msn.com writes:

Anyone  know for sure if these are eyelets or buttons?  Is there a cord 
running  through the center holes or is there a cord wrapped around the  "button"?



*****************
 
Looks like fancy eyelets with the cord running thru the center. And the  gown 
looks like watered silk.
 
What a lovely painting.



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]CostumeCon, now OT librarian in-jokes
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Status: RO

I must be at the wrong conferences too. Although, last year I did get to
talk about what the well dressed librarian would have worn in 1906 as a part
of a centennial celebration for the American Association of Law Libraries.
My friends were quite amused that I managed to talk about costumes at a law
library conference.

Beth Chamberlain
Head of Technical Services
Gould Law Library, Touro Law Center
Central Islip, NY

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzanne
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 8:15 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost]CostumeCon, now OT librarian in-jokes

I've obviously been attending the *wrong* conferences!  [Although the  
"poster committee" for Technical Services did place a "Warrior  
Librarians" poster in the hall outside my door....]

Mary, I love your tag line.

Suzanne LeSar
Acquisitions Coordinator
Parks Library, Iowa State University

On Apr 10, 2007, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> Suzanne said:... and if I ever go to another CostumeCon, I'll be
> sure to bring Conan the Librarian along, too!  (Where else could I
> get away with that?)
>
> You could do it at any library conference in North America, believe  
> me, we'd adore it!
>
> Mary
>
> Periodicals Department
> Stark County District Library
> 715 Market Ave. N.
> Canton, Ohio  44702-1018
>
> (330)452-0665 x 5750   mcarey@starklibrary.org
>
> We don't have issues... we have subscriptions.

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eyelets or Buttons-
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 23:09:54 -0500
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Status: RO

Perhap this will help
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2005/Anea2005.htm

You can enlarge this picture a bit
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2005/raphael1506.jpg
or you can enlarge this one real well
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e6/Raffael_036.jpg

De

-----Original Message-----
Anyone know for sure if these are eyelets or buttons?  Is there a cord
running through the center holes or is there a cord wrapped around the
"button"?

http://www.wga.hu/art/r/raphael/2firenze/1/31doni2.jpg


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From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eyelets or Buttons-
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 05:45:45 -0700
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Status: RO

Those don't look like eyelets to me, at least sewn with just thread.  If 
they were there would be dimple-like tension indents in the fabric around 
each one and there isn't.  They do look like disks of some sort (buttons 
would approximate).  It also looks to me as though there is lacing cord 
through the centers.

Laurie


>From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Eyelets or Buttons-
>Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 18:42:26 -0700
>
>Anyone know for sure if these are eyelets or buttons?  Is there a cord 
>running through the center holes or is there a cord wrapped around the 
>"button"?
>
>http://www.wga.hu/art/r/raphael/2firenze/1/31doni2.jpg<http://www.wga.hu/art/r/raphael/2firenze/1/31doni2.jpg>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes
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Status: RO

At 12:51 PM 4/9/2007, you wrote:
>"Marie Antoinette, the monarch who liked her hair big and her shoes 
>embroidered, would have swooned over these."
>
>
>
>Not a bad heel, I wonder if you could re-cover them ..


Actually, I'm picturing them with a pink or citrus-y green linen sundress!

Dianne



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eyelets or Buttons-
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Status: RO

Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> Anyone know for sure if these are eyelets or buttons?  Is there a cord running through the center holes or is there a cord wrapped around the "button"?
> 
> http://www.wga.hu/art/r/raphael/2firenze/1/31doni2.jpg<http://www.wga.hu/art/r/raphael/2firenze/1/31doni2.jpg>


They look like small metal disks with holes in the center. Some kind of 
grommet or decorative eyelet cover. With cords through the center of them.



Dawn



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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/11/2007 8:48:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
laswa@hotmail.com writes:

They do  look like disks of some sort (buttons 
would approximate).  It also  looks to me as though there is lacing cord 
through the  centers.




*************
 
That's what I meant. Like fancy grommets...sorta. Maybe some sort of  
metallic couching or needlework supported by some  stiffening.



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Childrens costumes
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Status: RO

It's called Canadian smocking. http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadia=
n.php=0AIt goes by other names as well, as this page will tell you. It is i=
ncredibly consumptive but its well worth it. It took me a good couple of ho=
urs to grasp how it's done; I am left handed and have to mentally invert in=
structions like this. I only wish that I could document its use to the 16th=
 c. Best as I can figure its exclusively 19th or better. I've seen it used =
in several Elizabethan-era movies lately, though.=0AThat sounds like a knit=
ting technique, Bjarne? Or did she manipulate it liek this after making the=
 flat knitting up? Once you have the rhythm of this stitch, it goes very qu=
ickly. It becomes addictive and one starts to want smocking up everything j=
ust to put the new toy to use. :-)=0A=0AKathy=0A =0AErmine, a lion rampant =
tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, sli=
pped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head e=
rased gules.=0A=0AIt=92s never too late to be who you might have been.=0A-G=
eorge Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of =
knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131=0A=0AI love the sleeves. How =
did you do that?=0ASharon=0A=0AThanks for posting Kathy.=0AShe is very swea=
t in her fine costume.=0AI remembered one of my studyers, who went to the d=
esign school same time as =0Ame, she made a knitted jacket, in machine knit=
, where she also plaited the =0Along sleaves like you did with the puffed s=
leaves. It looked so elegant. =0ATook her hours to make, as i remember.....=
........=0A=0ABjarne=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in  makeup
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 20:52:50 +0200
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Status: RO

My make up stick is also water and sope removable. I use Kryolan Tv paint 
stick.
I have used this stick many times til now, and i still have half the ammount 
left. I use this as a base, on top of this i use the same Kryolan 
transparent powder, then i paint my cheaks with red, and adds my eyebrows 
with a liner in brown, not black and last i stick on a mouche.
Then i use a lot of Lavender water and a touch of 
Bergamot...................

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew T Trembley" <attrembl@bovil.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 12:19 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in makeup


> On Apr 10, 2007, at 2:37 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
>> I use a water based makeup, which I find is less heavy on the skin,  plus 
>> it
>> washes off with water. Have you ever used this?
>> Sharon
>
>
> I love the Grimas water-based "face paint" from the Netherlands (I 
> mail-order it from a shop in the UK). It's very versatile, and very 
> sturdy. Best of all, jump in the shower and a bit of soap or shampoo 
> takes it off completely.
>
> andy
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking (was: Re: Childrens costumes)
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Status: RO

It's called Canadian smocking. 
http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php
It goes by other names as well, as this page will tell you. It is incredibly 
consumptive but its well worth it. It took me a good couple of hours to 
grasp how it's done; I am left handed and have to mentally invert 
instructions like this. I only wish that I could document its use to the 
16th c. Best as I can figure its exclusively 19th or better. I've seen it 
used in several Elizabethan-era movies lately, though.
(snip)
Kathy

I'm finding a couple of Italian portraits that look as if this might have 
been how the sleeves were done, only from the back.  I think I've actually 
seen one that has the latticework look to it, but I'm not finding it.  I'll 
keep looking.

http://www.wga.hu/support/viewer/z.html  This looks like the back of lattice 
smocking.

Melusine 

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Status: RO

That sounds like a knitting technique, Bjarne? Or did she manipulate it liek 
this after making the flat knitting up? Once you have the rhythm of this 
stitch, it goes very quickly. It becomes addictive and one starts to want 
smocking up everything just to put the new toy to use. :-)


She had the knitter make her strips of knit, and then she braided the strips 
and made a flat piece wich she then cut out to a sleave.
She had to invisible stitch all the braided parts together, wich took her 
very long time.

Bjarne 


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


[Feel free to forward this announcement to other lists.]


Volume 3 of Medieval Clothing & Textiles, the journal I co-edit with Gale
Owen-Crocker, will be released any day now.

Here's the table of contents for this volume:

-- Cushioning Medieval Life: Domestic Textiles in Anglo-Saxon England
	by Elizabeth Coatsworth

-- A Matter of Style: Clerical Vestments in the Anglo-Saxon Church
	by Sarah Larratt Keefer

-- Saints in Split Stitch: Representations of Saints in Opus Anglicanum
   Vestments
	by Susan Leibacher Ward

-- The Anti-Red Shift -- To the Dark Side: Colour Changes in Flemish
   Luxury Woollens, 1300-1550
	by John H. Munro

-- The Finishing of English Woollens, 1300-1550
	by John Oldland

-- Poverty and Richly Decorated Garments: A Re-Evaluation of Their
   Significance in the Vita Christi of Isabel de Villena
	by Lesley K. Twomey

-- Set on Yowre Hondys: Fifteenth-Century Instructions for Fingerloop
   Braiding
	by Elizabeth Benns

-- Tiny Textiles Hidden in Books: Toward a Categorization of
   Multiple-Strand Bookmarkers
	by Lois Swales and Heather Blatt

-- She Hath Over Grown All that Ever She Hath: Childrens Clothing in the
   Lisle Letters, 1533-40
	by Melanie Schuessler

... and a bunch of book reviews.

I think a number of medievally minded costumers and fiber enthusiasts will
find something of interest in here! I'd also like to note we have one
h-cost member among the authors (Melanie Schuessler) and several other
people known for their re-enactment / reconstruction work (Elizabeth Benns
and Lois Swales). Other names will be recognizable to people familiar with
studies in this field, or those who have gone to the Medieval Congresses
at Kalamazoo and Leeds, where many of these papers had their origins.

The book is available directly from the publisher, Boydell & Brewer:

http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832917.HTM

... or through many online sellers such as Amazon. Prices and discounts
may vary.


==========================================================
Robin Netherton 
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
robin@nightowl.net

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Status: RO


This message is NOT to be forwarded to other lists. Repeat NOT.

As noted in my earlier announcement, Volume 3 of Medieval Clothing &
Textiles, the journal I co-edit with Gale Owen-Crocker, will be released
any day now.

I have been given the authority to extend a special "friends" discount to
certain select groups. Because the h-cost community has been so helpful to
me in the editing of this journal, I figure I can include h-cost in our
circle of "friends."

The discount for Volume 3 is 25% off the list price of $55, for a sale
price of $41.25. The discount also applies to Volume 1 (list $47.95, sale
$35.96) and Volume 2 (list $47.95, sale $35.96). Postage in North and
South America is $5.95 for the first book and $2 for each additional
book.

I was given only dollar amounts; there is probably a separate offer for
our European friends that I can get on request.

If you are interested in this, please e-mail me privately (not to the list
please) and I will send you an order form with the discount offer.

The discount is for h-cost members ONLY and is not to be passed to other
lists. However, if you want to join with a few friends and order several
together under your own name to save a little on shipping, I think that
would be OK. Just don't pass the code to anyone else, and please don't
post it anywhere; we had a very bad experience with that a couple of years
ago.

Thanks again to the members of this list, for your interest and your help
over the last few years.


==========================================================
Robin Netherton 
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
robin@nightowl.net



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
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Status: RO

Carmen Beaudry wrote:


> http://www.wga.hu/support/viewer/z.html  This looks like the back of 
> lattice smocking.

That's not a valid link. Do you recall the title and artist?


Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Eyelets or Buttons
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Status: RO

It seems worth mentioning that there have been archaeological finds =20
from this general time period of actual grommets/metal eyelets.  =20
Granted, the ones I know of were found in London, but since London (no =20
offense intended!) was a bit of a fashion backwater at the time, it =20
seems at least reasonable to me theorize, on seeing something that =20
looks like a metal grommet on a fashionable portait, that you actually =20
are seeing a metal grommet!

Geoff Egan's "Material Culture in London in an Age of Transition" =20
(c1450-c1700) describes the following on page 53:
Copper alloy
229: ...late 15th/early 16th century... Diam 13mm; consists of two =20
opposed convex sheet rings, a smaller one (Diam 11mm) with a tubular =20
extension on the back which has been inserted through the center of =20
the other and the end bent over to fix it in place (rather in the =20
manner of a rivet); now-black coating on both sides; traces of leather =20
survive.
230: ...c1550-c1650 As 229
Lead/tin
231: ...c1500-c1550 Worn; D-shaped, overall approximate Diam 13 x =20
12mm; pair of opposed, tear-like forms flank the central hole, beading =20
along sides; stylized floral motif on the flat side; two rivets.

Egan also points back to "Dress Accessories c1150-c1450" pp 227-8, fig =20
142, for a similar but simpler version of 231, dated to the late 14th =20
century.

Here's a rather crappy scan of the illustration:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/img045.jpg
Though it seems to me that the cross-section illustrations don't =20
really match the text description, so I'm not sure which is more =20
accurate.

Granted, these probably aren't (as far as we know) from women's =20
clothing, especially 229, but still.

-E House
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From: "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <739433.17239.qm@web52110.mail.re2.yahoo.com><00c401c77c6b$b883f8b0$0200a8c0@boris>
	<461D41F4.40609@reddawn.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 13:47:58 -0700
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Status: RO

> Carmen Beaudry wrote:
>=20
>=20
>> http://www.wga.hu/support/viewer/z.html  This looks like the back of=20
>> lattice smocking.
>=20
> That's not a valid link. Do you recall the title and artist?
> Dawn

sigh....try this one:  http://www.wga.hu/index1.html =20
Portrait of Lucrezia Panciatichi by Bronzino
Melusine
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
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Status: RO

Quoting Carmen Beaudry <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>:

>> Carmen Beaudry wrote:
>>
>>
>>> http://www.wga.hu/support/viewer/z.html  This looks like the back of
>>> lattice smocking.
>>
>> That's not a valid link. Do you recall the title and artist?
>> Dawn
>
> sigh....try this one:  http://www.wga.hu/index1.html
> Portrait of Lucrezia Panciatichi by Bronzino

or this link
http://www.wga.hu/art/b/bronzino/2/panciat2.jpg

do you mean the sleeve heads?  I've wondered about them.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20070411153742.xw1jj8alopsgc4kk@www.formfunction.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Eyelets or Buttons
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 15:28:14 -0700
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Status: RO

I really does make more  sense that they are metal eyelets. There =
doesn't seem to be any sign of attachment of the ones on the dress - =
unless the little black marks are thread to hold it down. =20

Thanks!

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: formfunc@formfunction.org<mailto:formfunc@formfunction.org>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 1:37 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Re: Eyelets or Buttons


  It seems worth mentioning that there have been archaeological finds =20
  from this general time period of actual grommets/metal eyelets.  =20
  Granted, the ones I know of were found in London, but since London (no =
=20
  offense intended!) was a bit of a fashion backwater at the time, it =20
  seems at least reasonable to me theorize, on seeing something that =20
  looks like a metal grommet on a fashionable portait, that you actually =
=20
  are seeing a metal grommet!

  Geoff Egan's "Material Culture in London in an Age of Transition" =20
  (c1450-c1700) describes the following on page 53:
  Copper alloy
  229: ...late 15th/early 16th century... Diam 13mm; consists of two =20
  opposed convex sheet rings, a smaller one (Diam 11mm) with a tubular =20
  extension on the back which has been inserted through the center of =20
  the other and the end bent over to fix it in place (rather in the =20
  manner of a rivet); now-black coating on both sides; traces of leather =
=20
  survive.
  230: ...c1550-c1650 As 229
  Lead/tin
  231: ...c1500-c1550 Worn; D-shaped, overall approximate Diam 13 x =20
  12mm; pair of opposed, tear-like forms flank the central hole, beading =
=20
  along sides; stylized floral motif on the flat side; two rivets.

  Egan also points back to "Dress Accessories c1150-c1450" pp 227-8, fig =
=20
  142, for a similar but simpler version of 231, dated to the late 14th  =

  century.

  Here's a rather crappy scan of the illustration:
  =
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/img045.jpg<http://www.formfunction.org/t=
emp/img045.jpg>
  Though it seems to me that the cross-section illustrations don't =20
  really match the text description, so I'm not sure which is more =20
  accurate.

  Granted, these probably aren't (as far as we know) from women's =20
  clothing, especially 229, but still.

  -E House
  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  =
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/ma=
ilman/listinfo/h-costume>
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From: "Lawrence Kincaid Jr." <jr0218@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 15:35:19 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] vivian westwood
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Status: RO

	

						Yesterday I saw a Vivian Westwood collection at the de Young in  
SF, CA.
                             This is a big show with lots of cloths.   
It was very shocking.
                                                  I think that her  
outrageous Punk period gave her the flamboyance that shows in  almost  
everything she designs.   The shoes have a clumpy comic book look  
(Crumm).
                                                            Most of  
the items have an exaggerated look only to blow the mind not to make  
women look fine and handsome.
                                                                     
She uses slashing of the fabric in a Renaissance way; this is good.
                                                                         
        Costumers for stage and screen try to do what the script  
calls for; beautiful or dowdy et-cetera;    for example,       I  
think that the series, "Sex in the City" which had at least 20 or 30  
of the worlds top designers supplying Pat Fields whose main concern  
was to make the ladies look great and beautiful, sexy and not use the  
same item twice. The Monolo Blahnik shoes are beautiful in a  
different class from Westwoods'.   There may be just one Westwood  
gown in SITC, but she is, so not the one to have designed for that  
series; hers stuff was to off the wall for it.

                                                    Westwood gets the  
credit for re-introducing the corset to the world of high fashion  
circa 1980, but re-enactors were making corsets at the Dickens Fair  
here in the late seventies. The same thing was probably going on in  
the UK. The "Rocky Horror Picture Show" had the first corset in this  
modern period that I saw and i am sure that westwood was not the  
costumer, thats 1975 in England where she was probably exposed to it.  
So was there anyone there in the artistic bohemian crowd making  
corsets before the Tim Curry movie?
                                                         I am going  
to go see the museum show again this friday. I'll try to keep an open  
mind.

                                                                         
                                                  Larry Kincaid Jr
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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume-Con 25 photos: Have I missed anything?
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Status: RO

I've been keeping track of the photo galleries that were posted.

So far, I've got:

Don McClane
<http://www.tancos2.net/costume2/cc07A.html>

Kelli "Maethoriel"
<http://www.flickr.com/photos/7743201@N02/tags/cc25/>

John O'Halloran
<http://pics.ohalloran.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=28>

Loren
<http://www.flickr.com/photos/7758567@N06/sets/72157600060623903/>

Have I missed any others?

andy
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Con 25 photos: Have I missed anything?
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Status: RO


On Wed, 11 Apr 2007, Andrew T Trembley wrote:

> I've been keeping track of the photo galleries that were posted.

Thank you, Andy!

Did anyone who was at my lectures get any decent photos of me in my
lecture clothes, or for that matter of my companion Don in his
teal-colored wool cote? I have no good pictures of either of us in these
outfits, and it seems we were off the radar for everyone so far who has
posted pictures from the con.

Of course, we were tucked away in the lecture room on Saturday, and I
changed out of costume at lunchtime.

--Robin

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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] vivian westwood
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Status: RO

Larry, I'm sorry you felt that way. I went on March 17th and got to be
on a docented toru, so I got a different view of the designs. You MUST
see this exhibit if you like 20th Century clothing. Early in her
career, her partner told Ms. Westwood, "Go to the V&A and do some
research." After that, historic costume influenced much of what she
designed and you'll see lots of influences you recognize and some that
are more subtle. I grabbed the opportunity to go with the Costume
Society of America when those tickets were made available to the
Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild, and it was fabulous. We met before
the museum opened and got a docented tour through the exhibit without
having to look through the general public. It was fantastic! I don't
know if it's available every Saturday or not, but at 1:00 there was a
PowerPoint lecture by a different docent on Vivienne Westwood's
history - well worth the hour. It also gives you a bit of time to get
off your feet after walking through the exhibit. After the lecture I
went back to the exhibit and walked around some more and discovered
things I hadn't noticed the first time through.

Yes, much of what she designed was for shock value (she designed
rubber dresses for her first store for Pete's sake) and her clothes
aren't always flattering. But she had a plan with what she did and,
within her world, it works. Many of her oldest designs and many of her
most recent suits/dresses wouldn't work in the business world -
Madonna-like bras (pre-dating Madonna) build into the bodices and
bustles built into the skirts, but the detailing and styling is
fabulous. These were a homage to The New Look, make the hips and bust
big to show the tiny waist, but the shock value of the big butt
changes the homage to something else. Westwood's understanding of what
a fabric will do when you pinch it right There rather than 2 inches
lower is magical.

San Francisco is the last stop for this tour, and the only stop on the
West Coast of the US. I was more impressed by this show than I
expected. I still see some of the designs in my head, and how I'd like
to emphasize the historic influences in the clothes.  I really
recommend this show to anyone who can possibly get here. The website
is http://www.thinker.org/deyoung/index.asp   and the exhibit will be
here until June 10. I plan to go at least once more before June.

LynnD


On 4/11/07, Lawrence Kincaid Jr. <jr0218@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
>                                                 Yesterday I saw a Vivian Westwood collection at the de Young in
> SF, CA.
>                              This is a big show with lots of cloths.
> It was very shocking.
>                                                   I think that her
> outrageous Punk period gave her the flamboyance that shows in  almost
> everything she designs.   The shoes have a clumpy comic book look
> (Crumm).
>                                                             Most of
> the items have an exaggerated look only to blow the mind not to make
> women look fine and handsome.
>
> She uses slashing of the fabric in a Renaissance way; this is good.
>
>         Costumers for stage and screen try to do what the script
> calls for; beautiful or dowdy et-cetera;    for example,       I
> think that the series, "Sex in the City" which had at least 20 or 30
> of the worlds top designers supplying Pat Fields whose main concern
> was to make the ladies look great and beautiful, sexy and not use the
> same item twice. The Monolo Blahnik shoes are beautiful in a
> different class from Westwoods'.   There may be just one Westwood
> gown in SITC, but she is, so not the one to have designed for that
> series; hers stuff was to off the wall for it.
>
>                                                     Westwood gets the
> credit for re-introducing the corset to the world of high fashion
> circa 1980, but re-enactors were making corsets at the Dickens Fair
> here in the late seventies. The same thing was probably going on in
> the UK. The "Rocky Horror Picture Show" had the first corset in this
> modern period that I saw and i am sure that westwood was not the
> costumer, thats 1975 in England where she was probably exposed to it.
> So was there anyone there in the artistic bohemian crowd making
> corsets before the Tim Curry movie?
>                                                          I am going
> to go see the museum show again this friday. I'll try to keep an open
> mind.
>
>
>                                                   Larry Kincaid Jr
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
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Status: RO

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg

-----Original Message-----
Quoting Carmen Beaudry <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>:

>> Carmen Beaudry wrote:
>>
>>
>>> http://www.wga.hu/support/viewer/z.html  This looks like the back of
>>> lattice smocking.
>>
>> That's not a valid link. Do you recall the title and artist?
>> Dawn
>
> sigh....try this one:  http://www.wga.hu/index1.html
> Portrait of Lucrezia Panciatichi by Bronzino

or this link
http://www.wga.hu/art/b/bronzino/2/panciat2.jpg

do you mean the sleeve heads?  I've wondered about them.

susan


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Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2007 08:28:06 -0400
From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] MC&T vol. 3 announcement
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Status: RO

Thank you for posting the TOC, Robin.  This volume looks just as
packed full of interesting items as the others.
Mari

>
> [Feel free to forward this announcement to other lists.]
>
>
> Volume 3 of Medieval Clothing & Textiles, the journal I co-edit with Gale
> Owen-Crocker, will be released any day now.
>
> Here's the table of contents for this volume:
<snip>
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Hello,
=20
I would like to reply privately to this. My tool bar had a reply & a =
reply to all on it. I hit reply, but I think this will still go to the =
whole list. Being still rather a Luddite with this, I'm not sure what to =
do.
=20
Thanks for any assistance,
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Robin Netherton
Sent: Wed 4/11/2007 5:02 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Medieval Clothing & Textiles 3, ordering




This message is NOT to be forwarded to other lists. Repeat NOT.

As noted in my earlier announcement, Volume 3 of Medieval Clothing &
Textiles, the journal I co-edit with Gale Owen-Crocker, will be released
any day now.

I have been given the authority to extend a special "friends" discount =
to
certain select groups. Because the h-cost community has been so helpful =
to
me in the editing of this journal, I figure I can include h-cost in our
circle of "friends."

The discount for Volume 3 is 25% off the list price of $55, for a sale
price of $41.25. The discount also applies to Volume 1 (list $47.95, =
sale
$35.96) and Volume 2 (list $47.95, sale $35.96). Postage in North and
South America is $5.95 for the first book and $2 for each additional
book.

I was given only dollar amounts; there is probably a separate offer for
our European friends that I can get on request.

If you are interested in this, please e-mail me privately (not to the =
list
please) and I will send you an order form with the discount offer.

The discount is for h-cost members ONLY and is not to be passed to other
lists. However, if you want to join with a few friends and order several
together under your own name to save a little on shipping, I think that
would be OK. Just don't pass the code to anyone else, and please don't
post it anywhere; we had a very bad experience with that a couple of =
years
ago.

Thanks again to the members of this list, for your interest and your =
help
over the last few years.


=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Robin Netherton
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
robin@nightowl.net



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Status: RO

What are you looking at on this picture?....I don't see anything that =
looks like smocking.  I see a lot of slashing....??

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: otsisto<mailto:otsisto@socket.net>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 8:35 PM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking


  =
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg<http://www.tudor-portraits=
com/Elizabeth12.jpg>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Medieval Clothing & Textiles 3, ordering
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Status: RO


On Thu, 12 Apr 2007, Rickard, Patty   wrote:

> I would like to reply privately to this. My tool bar had a reply & a
> reply to all on it. I hit reply, but I think this will still go to the
> whole list. Being still rather a Luddite with this, I'm not sure what
> to do.

Responded privately.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
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Status: RO

I'm going to assume that you meant to suggest this portrait as an 
example of Canadian smocking, but I don't think it is.  It's possible 
that it's slashing-and-pinking, but in fact on close inspection it looks 
more like embroidery meant to look like slashing-and-pinking.  Or it may 
be that this is an illusion created by the artist trying to represent 
slashing backed by cloth-of-gold.

Melanie Schuessler


otsisto wrote:
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Quoting Carmen Beaudry <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>:
> 
> 
>>>Carmen Beaudry wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>http://www.wga.hu/support/viewer/z.html  This looks like the back of
>>>>lattice smocking.
>>>
>>>That's not a valid link. Do you recall the title and artist?
>>>Dawn
>>
>>sigh....try this one:  http://www.wga.hu/index1.html
>>Portrait of Lucrezia Panciatichi by Bronzino
> 
> 
> or this link
> http://www.wga.hu/art/b/bronzino/2/panciat2.jpg
> 
> do you mean the sleeve heads?  I've wondered about them.
> 
> susan
> 
> 
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Status: RO

=20

 Most fashion changes have started at "street-level" during the past
twenty years and most of the big-name designers, many who started
noticing what people were wearing, much of it coming where young
creative people were living, from the theatre, movies, or in probably
more cases than said designers are willing to admit: reinactors or
RenFaires. Then they give it their twist, put it on the runway, get the
media coverage, and take the credit for reintroducing said corset, or
whatever to the masses.

I suspect that Charles Worth, who traditional took and got the credit,
for introducing the super-wide hoop skirt, and then the the bustle,
actually got those ideas from elsewhere. The crinoline actually came out
in the 1850's and Worth did get a lot of inspiration from Renaissance
and Elizabethan portraits.

Cindy Abel

=09

						Yesterday I saw a Vivian
Westwood collection at the de Young in SF, CA.
                             This is a big show with lots of cloths.  =20
It was very shocking.
                                                  I think that her
outrageous Punk period gave her the flamboyance that shows in  almost =20
everything she designs.   The shoes have a clumpy comic book look =20
(Crumm).
                                                            Most of the
items have an exaggerated look only to blow the mind not to make women
look fine and handsome.
                                                                    =20
She uses slashing of the fabric in a Renaissance way; this is good.
=20

        Costumers for stage and screen try to do what the script =20
calls for; beautiful or dowdy et-cetera;    for example,       I =20
think that the series, "Sex in the City" which had at least 20 or 30 of
the worlds top designers supplying Pat Fields whose main concern was to
make the ladies look great and beautiful, sexy and not use the same item
twice. The Monolo Blahnik shoes are beautiful in a =20
different class from Westwoods'.   There may be just one Westwood =20
gown in SITC, but she is, so not the one to have designed for that
series; hers stuff was to off the wall for it.

                                                    Westwood gets the
credit for re-introducing the corset to the world of high fashion circa
1980, but re-enactors were making corsets at the Dickens Fair here in
the late seventies. The same thing was probably going on in the UK. The
"Rocky Horror Picture Show" had the first corset in this modern period
that I saw and i am sure that westwood was not the costumer, thats 1975
in England where she was probably exposed to it. =20
So was there anyone there in the artistic bohemian crowd making corsets
before the Tim Curry movie?
                                                         I am going to
go see the museum show again this friday. I'll try to keep an open mind.

=20

                                                  Larry Kincaid Jr
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2007 13:59:15 -0500
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Status: RO

Those are spangles and not cloth of gold. And though Canadians like to claim
the smocking technique, it was done way before Canada was Canada. I vaguely
remember seeing it once on a extent 1700s French stomacher.
De

-----Original Message-----
I'm going to assume that you meant to suggest this portrait as an
example of Canadian smocking, but I don't think it is.  It's possible
that it's slashing-and-pinking, but in fact on close inspection it looks
more like embroidery meant to look like slashing-and-pinking.  Or it may
be that this is an illusion created by the artist trying to represent
slashing backed by cloth-of-gold.

Melanie Schuessler


otsisto wrote:
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2007 08:33:25 -0600
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Status: RO

The strapwork on the sleeves, I'm guessing.  But I think it's actual
strapwork, and not smocking....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 7:27 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking


> What are you looking at on this picture?....I don't see anything that
looks like smocking.  I see a lot of slashing....??
>
> Sg
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: otsisto<mailto:otsisto@socket.net>
>   To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>
>   Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 8:35 PM
>   Subject: RE: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
>
>
>
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg<http://www.tudor-portraitscom
/Elizabeth12.jpg>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] AIR DATES:  "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS"
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Status: RO

Check out your friends in their Tudor garb tonight.  Tune into Style
Network. =20

=20

The writer/producer did a wonderful job of getting as many folks as she
could in the show.

=20

-Cat-

=20

-----Original Message-----
 Subject: [tvfilmcostuming] ADDITIONAL AIR DATES: "THE TUDORS: ROYAL
STYLEMAKERS"

6 plays of the show so far on STYLE NETWORKS. Depending on ratings there =
may
be more. They are promoting this with on on-air promos and a press=20

The Tudors: Royal Stylemakers Special on Style Network. All times are
Eastern & Pacific.

Thursday, April 12th @ 10:00pm

Thursday, April 12th @ 1:00am

Friday, April 13th @ 10:00am

Friday, April 13th @ 8:00pm

Saturday, April 14th @ 8:00am

Sunday, April 15th @ 7:00pm

=20

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] AIR DATES:  "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS"
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Status: RO

At 20:15 12/04/2007, you wrote:
>Check out your friends in their Tudor garb tonight.  Tune into Style
>Network.
>
>
>
>The writer/producer did a wonderful job of getting as many folks as she
>could in the show.
>
>
>
>-Cat-

Is it going to air in the UK too Cat? If not, can I get a DVD?

Suzi


>-----Original Message-----
>  Subject: [tvfilmcostuming] ADDITIONAL AIR DATES: "THE TUDORS: ROYAL
>STYLEMAKERS"
>
>6 plays of the show so far on STYLE NETWORKS. Depending on ratings there may
>be more. They are promoting this with on on-air promos and a press
>
>The Tudors: Royal Stylemakers Special on Style Network. All times are
>Eastern & Pacific.
>
>Thursday, April 12th @ 10:00pm
>
>Thursday, April 12th @ 1:00am
>
>Friday, April 13th @ 10:00am
>
>Friday, April 13th @ 8:00pm
>
>Saturday, April 14th @ 8:00am
>
>Sunday, April 15th @ 7:00pm
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2007 13:51:35 -0500
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Status: RO

If you look at the dress it is not slashing. It could be strips of velvet
woven together but I am more inclined to believe that it is lattice work.
The embroidery (or small pinking) and the spangles are emphisizing the the
woven look.
http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php

 http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg

Please compare the first picture to the portrait's sleeve.

I know that there are two other portraits out there that show the sleeves to
have what looks like lattice work but I can't seem to remember which
portraits, one was "Italian".

De

-----Original Message-----
What are you looking at on this picture?....I don't see anything that looks
like smocking.  I see a lot of slashing....??

Sg



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dyeing pots 350-575 AD?
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Status: RO

Hi all! I just wanted to thank everyone who replied to my question. :)
Unfortunately I haven't been able to find much to support my friend's
theory given that most of the vessels are so small, but I appreciate
your thoughts.

I also haven't been able to find the yahoo groups that deals with
natural dyeing that someone mentioned, either I or the search engine at
yahoo is wonky. So if anybody has a URL I would very much appreciate it!
:)

Ingrid


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPCEBKIOAA.otsisto@socket.net>
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Status: RO

I wasn't referring to the spangles, but to the pattern of longer and 
shorter lines, which looks like slashing and pinking, but I don't think 
it is.  If you look closely, each line looks like it is embroidered on 
top of the fabric with metallic thread.  I meant to suggest that this 
may in fact be the artist trying to depict slashes in the black that are 
backed by a metallic fabric.

In any case, I don't think it is smocking, nor does it look like actual 
strapwork to me.

Melanie Schuessler


otsisto wrote:
> Those are spangles and not cloth of gold. And though Canadians like to claim
> the smocking technique, it was done way before Canada was Canada. I vaguely
> remember seeing it once on a extent 1700s French stomacher.
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> I'm going to assume that you meant to suggest this portrait as an
> example of Canadian smocking, but I don't think it is.  It's possible
> that it's slashing-and-pinking, but in fact on close inspection it looks
> more like embroidery meant to look like slashing-and-pinking.  Or it may
> be that this is an illusion created by the artist trying to represent
> slashing backed by cloth-of-gold.
> 
> Melanie Schuessler
> 
> 
> otsisto wrote:
> 
>>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg
>>
> 
> 
> 
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
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Status: RO


OK.  I'll ask the ignorant question ...

What *is* Canadian Smocking and how is it different from any other  
kind of smocking?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in  makeup
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2007 15:23:27 -0700
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Status: RO

What level of SPF sun block are you wearing? If you use a good, strong =
one,
perhaps you wouldn't tan so much.
By the way, I love the new red/pink dress you are making.
Sharon C.
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 2:26 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in =
makeup


Thanks a lot Suzi,
Its also because i bike a lot every day at my job, getting arround to my =

clients, and gets quite tanned in the face, wich doesnt match reenacting =

18th century.
But i wondered what they used in their faces for makeup, powder alone, =
would

not hold very long.............
I use a theater stick, wich i take out in  a sponge, and adds this to my =

skin, then i use a powder, on top rouge and sometimes a black mouche.=20
Colonial Williamsburg has the worlds most wonderfull white powder wich =
is=20
perfumed, i wished they made a deodorant with that perfume, its =
heavenly!
I dont use lipstick.
In september i am going to a 2 days event in Bayreuth. Having a danse =
soir=E9=20
in the princess house friday evening, a picknick to the nearby castle=20
garden, saturday and  in the evening we hired the prince suites in the =
old=20
baroque theater, hearing Purcels King Arthur. I just thoaght it would be =

nice, if all the gentlemen would dare to wear makeup that=20
evening.................
When i get home from this, ill post you a lot of pictures to see.
And i am preparing to update my costumes for this event. I just finished =
a=20
jacket, wich ill wear to the yellow embroidered waistcoat, this i would =
use=20
for the picknic. then the Tzar Allexander suit for the opera, i have=20
finished the waistcoat with the silver spangels. The danse soir=E9 ill =
wear my

light blue satin suit with the silver bobbin lace.
My trunk is going to be quite heavy..............

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in =
makeup


> At 20:39 10/04/2007, you wrote:
>>Dear Saragrace,
>>I am sure you have seen many portraits with gentlemen wearing a =
banyan.=20
>>Its a kind of dressing gown or morning gown. In stead of wearing a =
full=20
>>dressed outfit, a man being at home could have visitors and wear a =
banyan.

>>You usually wore the banyan with your shirt, waistcoat and breeches, =
but=20
>>Christian VII's banyan was closed entirely in the front, so he could =
have=20
>>worn nothing underneath :-)
>>Usually a cap follwed with the banyan, so the gentleman didnt have to =
wear

>>a wig, but its missing in this outfit.
>>
>>Then i also looked at portraits, thoaght that this time i would =
exhamine=20
>>very closely, a disgussion we have had on an 18th century list i am =
on, if

>>men wore makeup!
>>I still believe they used makeup, such pale skin and such rose =
colloured=20
>>cheaks and lips, i am still convinsed after i studyed the portraits of =
the

>>kings.
>>Its the german lummieres members, they dont dare to wear makeup, and =
they=20
>>therefore hold to the fact that men didnt wear makeup in 18th century, =
but

>>they did PERIOD
>>
>>Bjarne
>
> Bjarne
>
> "Fashions in Makeup" by   Richard Corson, and "The Art of Beauty" by =
Sally

> Pointer, both state that men wore rouge, "British dandies who affected =
the

> extremes of Continental fashion were known to take as much time and =
care=20
> over their toilette as their female counterparts." (Pointer using =
James=20
> Boswell - and others - as a source.)
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>=20


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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] I'm keeping a running list...
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Status: RO

...of Costume-Con 25 photo albums and websites in the Costume-Con  
livejournal community.

<http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con/tag/photos>

If yours isn't there, post it, or let me know and I'll add it.

andy
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] re: Vivian Westwood
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Status: RO

>San Francisco is the last stop for this tour, and the only stop on the
>West Coast of the US. I was more impressed by this show than I
>expected. I still see some of the designs in my head, and how I'd like
>to emphasize the historic influences in the clothes.  I really
>recommend this show to anyone who can possibly get here. The website
>is http://www.thinker.org/deyoung/index.asp   and the exhibit will be
>here until June 10. I plan to go at least once more before June.

>LynnD

Anyone for an h-costume midday excursion to the Vivian Westwood show
at the DeYoung?  Play hookey from work!  It would amuse me vastly to
go Wednesday 9 June and head back out of the city by rush hour.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dyeing pots 350-575 AD?
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Hi!
=20
NaturalDyes@yahoogroups.com
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Ingrid G. Storr=F8
Sent: Thu 4/12/2007 3:24 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dyeing pots 350-575 AD?



Hi all! I just wanted to thank everyone who replied to my question. :)
Unfortunately I haven't been able to find much to support my friend's
theory given that most of the vessels are so small, but I appreciate
your thoughts.

I also haven't been able to find the yahoo groups that deals with
natural dyeing that someone mentioned, either I or the search engine at
yahoo is wonky. So if anybody has a URL I would very much appreciate it!
:)

Ingrid


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Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2007 20:16:00 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] AIR DATES:  "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS"
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Status: RO

At 05:13 PM 4/12/2007, you wrote:
>At 20:15 12/04/2007, you wrote:
>>Check out your friends in their Tudor garb tonight.  Tune into Style
>>Network.


Sadly, these days 10:00 is past my bedtime. :-) But I've got my DVR 
set to record it!

Dianne


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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] re: Vivian Westwood
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2007 17:21:26 -0700
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Status: RO

Sounds good. I'm in.
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 4:35 PM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] re: Vivian Westwood


>San Francisco is the last stop for this tour, and the only stop on the
>West Coast of the US. I was more impressed by this show than I
>expected. I still see some of the designs in my head, and how I'd like
>to emphasize the historic influences in the clothes.  I really
>recommend this show to anyone who can possibly get here. The website
>is http://www.thinker.org/deyoung/index.asp   and the exhibit will be
>here until June 10. I plan to go at least once more before June.

>LynnD

Anyone for an h-costume midday excursion to the Vivian Westwood show
at the DeYoung?  Play hookey from work!  It would amuse me vastly to
go Wednesday 9 June and head back out of the city by rush hour.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] re: Vivian Westwood show Wens 9 MAY
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>Anyone for an h-costume midday excursion to the Vivian Westwood show
>at the DeYoung?  Play hookey from work!  It would amuse me vastly to
>go Wednesday 9 June and head back out of the city by rush hour.

I just received a gentil off-list reminder that in June, the 9th is a
Saturday.  My apologies for the confusion, I meant Wens 9 MAY and
heading home avoiding an evening rush hour.
Thanks,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 7:33 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking


>
> OK.  I'll ask the ignorant question ...
>
> What *is* Canadian Smocking and how is it different from any other  kind 
> of smocking?
>
> susan

I had the same confusion until I looked at the website mentioned at the 
beginning of this thread http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php 
and found out it's actually what I've always seen described as Lattice 
smocking in English/Australian texts (this other name must be a north 
American thing)
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/





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Subject: [h-cost] knitted garters (when) are they period?
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Status: RO

hello everyone, I'm planning to make a pair of cloth hose for 16th century 
wear but as I don't have the fabric for the hose themselves yet I thought I 
would start with the garters. Everyone I've seen wearing these hose seems to 
use leather garters but I can't afford to go out and buy that sort of thing 
at the moment so I thought of knitting some garters to hold up my hose. Does 
anybody know of evidence for knitted garters at any point in history but 
preferably the 16th century? I ask because at the moment I'm doing an 
experiment using cheap acrylic yarn that I had on hand (bought by my grandma 
a couple of years ago) and if knitted garters are period at all I will knit 
another set in wool, but if not I'll use the acrylic ones until I can 
replace them with leather.
thanks,
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/





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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking
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Status: RO

Quoting Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>:

>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
>
>>
>> OK.  I'll ask the ignorant question ...
>>
>> What *is* Canadian Smocking and how is it different from any other   
>>  kind of smocking?
>>
>> susan
>
> I had the same confusion until I looked at the website mentioned at the
> beginning of this thread
> http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php and found out it's
> actually what I've always seen described as Lattice smocking in
> English/Australian texts (this other name must be a north American
> thing)

Thanks!  I've always heard it called Lattice Smocking too.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] knitted garters (when) are they period?
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Status: RO

I think you'd be better off with cloth garters.  I don't know of any extant
knitted garters from the 16th century (nor any references to them, off the
top of my head).
You could make the cloth garters out of strips of fabric, or make your
own--inkle weaving or some other type of narrow ware like tablet weaving
(still a known technique in the 16th century, but not as popular as earlier,
from what I've heard).  Or perhaps a really wide strip of fingerloop braid,
which would certainly be an appropriate technique.
The Eleanor of Toledo remains had strips of fabric associated with her
knitted silk stockings, but it is now held that those weren't garters as
much as they were meant to hold her legs together for the actual burial.
I seem to recall seeing garters that looked like fabric in some men's
portraits, rather than leather.
I've got some inexpensive garters for my 14th c. linen hose (made of
bias-cut fabric).  They're a simple, dyed twill, cotton ribbon.  Eventually,
I'll be making some using tablet weaving, though.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 8:03 PM
Subject: [h-cost] knitted garters (when) are they period?


> hello everyone, I'm planning to make a pair of cloth hose for 16th century
> wear but as I don't have the fabric for the hose themselves yet I thought
I
> would start with the garters. Everyone I've seen wearing these hose seems
to
> use leather garters but I can't afford to go out and buy that sort of
thing
> at the moment so I thought of knitting some garters to hold up my hose.
Does
> anybody know of evidence for knitted garters at any point in history but
> preferably the 16th century? I ask because at the moment I'm doing an
> experiment using cheap acrylic yarn that I had on hand (bought by my
grandma
> a couple of years ago) and if knitted garters are period at all I will
knit
> another set in wool, but if not I'll use the acrylic ones until I can
> replace them with leather.
> thanks,
> Elizabeth


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Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Wed, 11 Apr 2007, Andrew T Trembley wrote:
> 
> 
>>I've been keeping track of the photo galleries that were posted.
> 
> 
> Thank you, Andy!
> 
> Did anyone who was at my lectures get any decent photos of me in my
> lecture clothes, or for that matter of my companion Don in his
> teal-colored wool cote? 


I have my gallery up now. Mostly the same pictures as everyone else, but 
some of Robin's lecture, too.

http://www.reddawn.net/dawn/CostumeCon25/index.html

Feel free to borrow copies of any pictures if you're in them.



Dawn

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Status: RO

Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:

> At 05:13 PM 4/12/2007, you wrote:
> 
>> At 20:15 12/04/2007, you wrote:
>>
>>> Check out your friends in their Tudor garb tonight.  Tune into Style
>>> Network.
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly, these days 10:00 is past my bedtime. :-) But I've got my DVR set 
> to record it!
> 


It looks like it will repeat on the 15th earlier in the evening.



Dawn


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Status: RO


>> Is it going to air in the UK too Cat? If not, can I get a DVD?
>> Suzi

Everyone one's who's picture made it in, that includes you, will get a copy
of the DVD once MJ has a chance to mail them.  Only problem it will be US
format.... so you'll have to borrow a machine that plays that format.

To others who watched... some of the pictures go a bit fast, but almost
everyone tapes now a days, so it's a matter of rewinding and enjoying at
your own speed.

-Cat-




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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] knitted garters (when) are they period?
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Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2007 23:05:06 -0500 (CDT)
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Status: RO


I can't comment on the use of knitted garters (we're told that the garter stitch
is called that because it was used for garters--can anybody verify this?) but
for 16th century I've used wide strips of bias-cut fabric, tied in a bow.  The
bias cut stretches enough the the garters were quite comfortable, and the big
bows...felt right.  I hasten to add that this wasn't planned; I thought my socks
would stay up better than they proved to, when they didn't I had to improvise.  

cheap, easy, and it works.  I can't provide documentation, but it seems at least
as plausible as knitted acrylic garters.

Emma
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Thread-Topic: ADDITIONAL AIR DATES: "THE TUDORS: ROYAL
Thread-Index: Acd9YjW3GCcdsUTyTSqk7GsgvJ46JAAGYVdQ
From: "Donna J. Bates" <djbates@bigdumbdog.com>
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Status: RO

Mine was the Blackwork Sleeve, the Codpieces/Paned Slops and we were the
seated couple in mostly black in the credits!

I just about died when my husband called me at work and said the DVD
showed up, I had him watch it and give me a rundown over the phone.

Donna Bates
www.fairewardrobe.com

>
>-----Original Message-----
> Subject: [tvfilmcostuming] ADDITIONAL AIR DATES: "THE TUDORS: ROYAL
>STYLEMAKERS"
>
>6 plays of the show so far on STYLE NETWORKS. Depending on ratings
there may
>be more. They are promoting this with on on-air promos and a press=20
>
>The Tudors: Royal Stylemakers Special on Style Network. All times are
>Eastern & Pacific.
>
>Thursday, April 12th @ 10:00pm
>
>Thursday, April 12th @ 1:00am
>
>Friday, April 13th @ 10:00am
>
>Friday, April 13th @ 8:00pm
>
>Saturday, April 14th @ 8:00am
>
>Sunday, April 15th @ 7:00pm
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] knitted garters (when) are they period?
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On Apr 13, 2007, at 12:05 AM, 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:
> (we're told that the garter stitch is called that because it was  
> used for garters--can anybody verify this?)

      I heard that too, however garter stitch can be found as the  
treatment for hand-knit stocking tops.  I've heard the tops called  
welts and also garters, so I wonder if that's how garter stitch gets  
its name?

      -Carol
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: AIR DATES:  "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS
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Status: RO

At 05:01 13/04/2007, you wrote:

> >> Is it going to air in the UK too Cat? If not, can I get a DVD?
> >> Suzi
>
>Everyone one's who's picture made it in, that includes you, will get a copy
>of the DVD once MJ has a chance to mail them.  Only problem it will be US
>format.... so you'll have to borrow a machine that plays that format.

No problem - I have a multi-zone player - comes of having *too* many 
American friends!


>To others who watched... some of the pictures go a bit fast, but almost
>everyone tapes now a days, so it's a matter of rewinding and enjoying at
>your own speed.

Looking forward to seeing the programme.

Suzi

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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] AIR DATES:  "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS"
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2007 17:24:35 -0700
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Status: RO

Cool! I'm in it, just for a second. Dark green Elizabethan.
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Cat Devereaux
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 12:15 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] AIR DATES: "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS"


Check out your friends in their Tudor garb tonight.  Tune into Style
Network. =20

=20

The writer/producer did a wonderful job of getting as many folks as she
could in the show.

=20

-Cat-

=20

-----Original Message-----
 Subject: [tvfilmcostuming] ADDITIONAL AIR DATES: "THE TUDORS: ROYAL
STYLEMAKERS"

6 plays of the show so far on STYLE NETWORKS. Depending on ratings there =
may
be more. They are promoting this with on on-air promos and a press=20

The Tudors: Royal Stylemakers Special on Style Network. All times are
Eastern & Pacific.

Thursday, April 12th @ 10:00pm

Thursday, April 12th @ 1:00am

Friday, April 13th @ 10:00am

Friday, April 13th @ 8:00pm

Saturday, April 14th @ 8:00am

Sunday, April 15th @ 7:00pm

=20

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: AIR DATES:  "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS
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Status: RO


On Thu, 12 Apr 2007, Cat Devereaux wrote:

> To others who watched... some of the pictures go a bit fast, but
> almost everyone tapes now a days, so it's a matter of rewinding and
> enjoying at your own speed.

I tuned in rather late and saw some unrelated segments, but then at the
end, over the closing credits, were some re-enactor photos. Was there
something earlier? If so, I'll tape on the replay. As for the photos at
the end ... who's who? Is there a list somewhere?

--Robin

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Status: RO

I searched EVERYWHERE on my cable and was never able to find the show.  Is
it under another channel?
Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 3:39 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: AIR DATES: "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS

At 05:01 13/04/2007, you wrote:

> >> Is it going to air in the UK too Cat? If not, can I get a DVD?
> >> Suzi
>
>Everyone one's who's picture made it in, that includes you, will get a copy
>of the DVD once MJ has a chance to mail them.  Only problem it will be US
>format.... so you'll have to borrow a machine that plays that format.

No problem - I have a multi-zone player - comes of having *too* many 
American friends!


>To others who watched... some of the pictures go a bit fast, but almost
>everyone tapes now a days, so it's a matter of rewinding and enjoying at
>your own speed.

Looking forward to seeing the programme.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] knitted garters (when) are they period?
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Status: RO

You do see evidence of what we now call "garter stitch" in the sixteenth
century, but I don't know that we have
a. any evidence that it was *called* garter stitch *in the 16th century* or
b. any evidence that it was *used* for "garters" at that time.  ;o)
I'd have to defer to those of you who specialize in later time periods than
I, which is where I'd suspect that we find more info on the use of various
knitted items for the lower limbs, as they become more common...
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carol Kocian" <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] knitted garters (when) are they period?


>
> On Apr 13, 2007, at 12:05 AM, 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:
> > (we're told that the garter stitch is called that because it was
> > used for garters--can anybody verify this?)
>
>       I heard that too, however garter stitch can be found as the
> treatment for hand-knit stocking tops.  I've heard the tops called
> welts and also garters, so I wonder if that's how garter stitch gets
> its name?
>
>       -Carol


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From: "Cat Devereaux" <CatDevereaux@alleycatscratch.com>
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Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2007 10:37:46 -0800
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: AIR DATES:  "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS" 
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Status: RO

I'm going to catch a couple of questions at once since I'm on digest...

>>I tuned in rather late and saw some unrelated segments, but then at =
the
end, over the closing credits, were some re-enactor photos. Was there
something earlier?

There's another segment in the middle, plus details shots are used as
examples in various spots like blackwork, codpieces, partlets and they =
did
one morph from that yellow runway dress into our of the group's Tudor
outfits.

>> If so, I'll tape on the replay. As for the photos at
the end ... who's who? Is there a list somewhere?

MK went though and credited everyone.  No, they're not in order.

>>I searched EVERYWHERE on my cable and was never able to find the show. =
 Is
it under another channel?

Style is normally under extended basic or extended high channels on =
cable.
Later if will probably air on E! and then on Showtime on Demand.  But,
everything is up to the whim's of the schedules. =20

It made the NY Times "must watch" list for yesterday though.

-Cat-

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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10704130025480.4110-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: AIR DATES:  "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2007 10:48:57 -0500
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Status: RO

My 11 year old daughter is the young girl in the green Tudor for the partlet 
segment, it looks like they used three or four different photos. She was 
wearing a silver headband. But I only caught the last part of the whole show 
and will be watching it with her after school.

She is going to be over the MOON!

Chiara
Proud Mommy :)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: AIR DATES: "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS


>
> On Thu, 12 Apr 2007, Cat Devereaux wrote:
>
>> To others who watched... some of the pictures go a bit fast, but
>> almost everyone tapes now a days, so it's a matter of rewinding and
>> enjoying at your own speed.
>
> I tuned in rather late and saw some unrelated segments, but then at the
> end, over the closing credits, were some re-enactor photos. Was there
> something earlier? If so, I'll tape on the replay. As for the photos at
> the end ... who's who? Is there a list somewhere?
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: [h-cost] Costume-Con 26 rates go up May 1!
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Status: RO

CC26: Rates on the Rise

Been *meaning* to get your Costume-Con 26 membership before the rates
go up? Well, now is the time to act: rates go up on May Day! (5/1/07)

Our current rate is $75. On May 1st, we hop up to $85. Supporting
memberships, Kids-In-Tow and Youth memberships stay at the current
rate. If you voted for CC26 in Silicon Valley, you may apply your $10
voting fee towards your memberships.

What are you getting for your membership you ask?

Answer: Lots of opportunities to compete against and chill with other
costumers and designers - and lots of reasons to get your picture
taken! You'll find plenty of inspiration in our vendors area, and from
the costumes in the halls. Show off your finest doll couture, your
bushiest tail, or your sharpest vest crease. Pick up tips and
techniques for making almost anything from our experts!

Costume-Con offers an abundance of educational workshops,
competitions, and social events. Check out http://www.cc26.info for
the latest on our offerings.

We'll show our town off to its costuming best, guiding you to fabric,
museums, and restaurants. This is California! Expect great weather and
endless opportunities for fun.

Don't forget your time-traveling togs!

Join us at Costume-Con 26. Visit http://www.cc26.info and register
before the fees ascend! The Doubletree Hotel San Jose will soon create
a Private Online Group Page for online reservations. More news soon!

Please forward freely.

"Costume-Con" is a registered service mark of Karen Dick, used by
permission.
"CC26! Adventures in the Costume Continuum" is a project of The
Unconventional Foundation.

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] AIR DATES:  "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS"
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I recognized some of the costumers on the show, which I thought was cool (ah, that brief, fleeting glimpse of famous-for-a-second-people). I now have to go back and watch for those here, so I can put a face to your name (or your daughter's).
   
  I didn't put in a photo of myself, but of photos I took of my friends, from my guildmaster & mistress, to friends from another ren guild. The one gentleman's chest seen in the puff & slash segment (a little more than a second) was one of my photos. You see his whole body & head later.
   
  If anyone is curious about the photos I sent, I also have them here:
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/41633059@N00/sets/72157594583565881/
   
  I had a good squeeee and had to watch the DVD when it came in yesterday, after MJ told me it had been delivered (I didn't hear a knock at the door). I've since told all of my friends about it. Silly me, I didn't watch the credits, so now I have to go back and do so.
   
  Kimiko
   

       
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
 Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
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Status: RO

Anyone know where I can get some 100% cotten dotted Swiss with a soft 
hand, suitable for machine dyeing with Procion dyes (no synthetic 
content or obstructive finishes)?  I really want to sew with some, but 
am not liking the pastel colors I'm seeing.

I also have a passion to sew with some pin-dotted fabric in earthtones 
but have partially satisfied it at www.reproductionfabrics.com.  Other 
suggestions welcome, though. What I've mostly seen elsewhere is things 
like (shudder) hot pink dots on a chartreuse ground. I'm interested in 
pin-dotted silks as well as cottons.

Thanks.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Status: RO

Lavolta Press wrote:

> Anyone know where I can get some 100% cotten dotted Swiss with a soft 
> hand, suitable for machine dyeing with Procion dyes (no synthetic 
> content or obstructive finishes)?  I really want to sew with some, but 
> am not liking the pastel colors I'm seeing.


Here's a couple places I came up with that sell 100% cotton dotted swiss 
in white, among other colours.


http://www.heirloomsewingforchildren.com/fabric2.htm

http://www.carolharrisco.com/swiss.shtml

http://www.baltazor.com/dottedswiss.html

http://www.srfabrics.com/cottons/othercotton.htm



Dawn


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From: "Becky Rautine" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2007 21:10:43 -0400
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Status: RO

I had a dress that I loved with butterflies as a dotted swiss cloth. It was 
yellow with pastel butterflies that were raised and slightly softer poofs. 
Any one seen anything like this?

Sincerely,
Rebecca Rautine




From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
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FILETIME=[AB415EB0:01C77E2B]

Lavolta Press wrote:

>Anyone know where I can get some 100% cotten dotted Swiss with a soft hand, 
>suitable for machine dyeing with Procion dyes (no synthetic content or 
>obstructive finishes)?  I really want to sew with some, but am not liking 
>the pastel colors I'm seeing.


Here's a couple places I came up with that sell 100% cotton dotted swiss in 
white, among other colours.


http://www.heirloomsewingforchildren.com/fabric2.htm

http://www.carolharrisco.com/swiss.shtml

http://www.baltazor.com/dottedswiss.html

http://www.srfabrics.com/cottons/othercotton.htm



Dawn


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <024e01c77dfa$d5213dd0$210ccd18@Maxwell>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: AIR DATES:  "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS" 
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Cat,

It is not on Showtime On Demand.  But The Tutors episodes 1-3 are On Demand. 
I watched it last night.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
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Status: RO

Thanks. One of the Baltazor swisses, a batiste, looks like a good 
candidate . . . as long as it doesn't have any obstructive finish on it.

Fran

Dawn wrote:

> Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
>> Anyone know where I can get some 100% cotten dotted Swiss with a soft 
>> hand, suitable for machine dyeing with Procion dyes (no synthetic 
>> content or obstructive finishes)?  I really want to sew with some, but 
>> am not liking the pastel colors I'm seeing.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple places I came up with that sell 100% cotton dotted swiss 
> in white, among other colours.
> 
> 
> http://www.heirloomsewingforchildren.com/fabric2.htm
> 
> http://www.carolharrisco.com/swiss.shtml
> 
> http://www.baltazor.com/dottedswiss.html
> 
> http://www.srfabrics.com/cottons/othercotton.htm
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2007 03:56:10 -0700
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Status: RO

Hot pink dots on a chartreuse ground!!!
What were they thinking? Can you believe someone actually got paid to put
that combo together, but we have trouble finding decent fabrics anywhere?
Honestly, some of the patterns out there make me shudder!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 4:42 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss


Anyone know where I can get some 100% cotten dotted Swiss with a soft 
hand, suitable for machine dyeing with Procion dyes (no synthetic 
content or obstructive finishes)?  I really want to sew with some, but 
am not liking the pastel colors I'm seeing.

I also have a passion to sew with some pin-dotted fabric in earthtones 
but have partially satisfied it at www.reproductionfabrics.com.  Other 
suggestions welcome, though. What I've mostly seen elsewhere is things 
like (shudder) hot pink dots on a chartreuse ground. I'm interested in 
pin-dotted silks as well as cottons.

Thanks.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Apr 14 11:32:30 2007
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian (Lattice) Smocking
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Status: RO

De,

I'm afraid we must agree to disagree.  To my eyes this is definitely 
slashing or embroidery meant to look like slashing.  If you look at 
other depictions of slashing, you'll see the same look--lines that are 
heavier in the middle, narrower on the ends, and not connected:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan11.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/EdwardHoby1.jpg

Also, sleeves of strapwork (or even lattice smocking, should it turn out 
to have existed) are one thing, but a whole skirt of it seems less 
plausible.

If you look at depictions of strapwork, on the other hand, you see a 
completely different look.  The lines for the edges of the straps are 
even in thickness and connect to the next perpendicular strap so that 
it's clear they're passing over and under each other:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan2.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth4.jpg  (side of the bodice)

Melanie Schuessler


otsisto wrote:
> If you look at the dress it is not slashing. It could be strips of velvet
> woven together but I am more inclined to believe that it is lattice work.
> The embroidery (or small pinking) and the spangles are emphisizing the the
> woven look.
> http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php
> 
>  http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg
> 
> Please compare the first picture to the portrait's sleeve.
> 
> I know that there are two other portraits out there that show the sleeves to
> have what looks like lattice work but I can't seem to remember which
> portraits, one was "Italian".
> 
> De



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Status: RO

I somehow got the impression that pin-dotted fabric is in style so it 
would be easy to find, but I think I was wrong about that.  I went to 
the dentist in Berkeley on Wednesday and consoled myself by going to 
three fabric stores over there (Poppy, Stonemountain, and Discount 
Fabrics), and I wasn't seeing much in the way of pin dots.

As for the dotted Swiss, I asked Baltazor how well their $15/yard 100% 
cotton batiste white Swiss would dye. (Why is it manufacturers are so 
locked into the white/blue/pink/pale yellow colors for dotted Swiss?) 
They said they didn't know whether the fabric would stand up to machine 
dyeing, but offered to send me half a yard free of charge to test.

Fran

Sharon Collier wrote:
> Hot pink dots on a chartreuse ground!!!
> What were they thinking? Can you believe someone actually got paid to put
> that combo together, but we have trouble finding decent fabrics anywhere?
> Honestly, some of the patterns out there make me shudder!
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
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Status: RO

 This type of fabric is primarily used today for little girl's outfits, as well as for babies. I guess that is why there is a primarily pastel palette currently available.
 
 :)
 ~Kimberley
 
  
 -----Original Message-----
 From: fran@lavoltapress.com
 To: h-costume@indra.com
 Sent: Sat, 14 Apr 2007 1:32 PM
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
 
  I somehow got the impression that pin-dotted fabric is in style so it would be easy to find, but I think I was wrong about that. I went to the dentist in Berkeley on Wednesday and consoled myself by going to three fabric stores over there (Poppy, Stonemountain, and Discount Fabrics), and I wasn't seeing much in the way of pin dots. 
 
 As for the dotted Swiss, I asked Baltazor how well their $15/yard 100% cotton batiste white Swiss would dye. (Why is it manufacturers are so locked into the white/blue/pink/pale yellow colors for dotted Swiss?) They said they didn't know whether the fabric would stand up to machine dyeing, but offered to send me half a yard free of charge to test. 
 
 Fran 
 
 Sharon Collier wrote: 
 > Hot pink dots on a chartreuse ground!!! 
 > What were they thinking? Can you believe someone actually got paid to put 
 > that combo together, but we have trouble finding decent fabrics anywhere? 
 > Honestly, some of the patterns out there make me shudder! 
 > > _______________________________________________ 
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Status: RO

That was a rhetorical question . . . but dotted Swiss is a perfectly 
good fabric that can be used for many things and if I can manage to dye 
it in some earhtones I'm going to sew them!

Fran

chindora@aol.com wrote:

>  This type of fabric is primarily used today for little girl's outfits, as well as for babies. I guess that is why there is a primarily pastel palette currently available.
>  
>  :)
>  ~Kimberley
>  
>   
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: fran@lavoltapress.com
>  To: h-costume@indra.com
>  Sent: Sat, 14 Apr 2007 1:32 PM
>  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
>  
>   I somehow got the impression that pin-dotted fabric is in style so it would be easy to find, but I think I was wrong about that. I went to the dentist in Berkeley on Wednesday and consoled myself by going to three fabric stores over there (Poppy, Stonemountain, and Discount Fabrics), and I wasn't seeing much in the way of pin dots. 
>  
>  As for the dotted Swiss, I asked Baltazor how well their $15/yard 100% cotton batiste white Swiss would dye. (Why is it manufacturers are so locked into the white/blue/pink/pale yellow colors for dotted Swiss?) They said they didn't know whether the fabric would stand up to machine dyeing, but offered to send me half a yard free of charge to test. 
>  
>  Fran 
>  
>  Sharon Collier wrote: 
>  > Hot pink dots on a chartreuse ground!!! 
>  > What were they thinking? Can you believe someone actually got paid to put 
>  > that combo together, but we have trouble finding decent fabrics anywhere? 
>  > Honestly, some of the patterns out there make me shudder! 
>  > > _______________________________________________ 
>  h-costume mailing list 
>  h-costume@mail.indra.com 
>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
>    
> ________________________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Status: RO

Three Rivers has not posted an online catalog of the first day of this. 
  Are they going to?

Thanks,

Fran
http://www.lavoltapress.com

LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:

> Yes Kathy , it is in a way.  But my 'children' need to grow and get on 
> in the world.  Some of them have led a very reclusive life...and that is 
> why they are beautiful. Getting on in age, myself, continuing the care 
> necessary for the preservation and Conservation of such a wonderful 
> collection will only become more complicated.  And so, I challenge 
> another generation to take up cause.

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Canadian (Lattice) Smocking
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2007 15:34:39 -0500
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Status: RO

 The white on the black is either slashes or embroidery, so we agree on
that. What we don't agree with is the smocking and the gold bits.  Spangles
were used in period and I believe that there are a few garments that
Elizabeth I wore that had them.
I believe that they are spangles (there were different sizes) because you
can see them under the lace cuffs. As if they were polished metal and not a
cloth of gold shimmer.
If supported correctly the lattice work can be used in a skirt.
If you look at
http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php
Imagine the raised bars closer together (this can be done) and done in a
little heavier material that is supported in back. Then take every other
raised bar and embroider/pink it and the others spangle it and you have the
design pattern of the portrait.
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg
The sleeves are what convinces me that they are latticework because of the
way the design lays. So I guess agree to disagree.
De

-----Original Message-----
De,

I'm afraid we must agree to disagree.  To my eyes this is definitely
slashing or embroidery meant to look like slashing.  If you look at
other depictions of slashing, you'll see the same look--lines that are
heavier in the middle, narrower on the ends, and not connected:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan11.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/EdwardHoby1.jpg

Also, sleeves of strapwork (or even lattice smocking, should it turn out
to have existed) are one thing, but a whole skirt of it seems less
plausible.

If you look at depictions of strapwork, on the other hand, you see a
completely different look.  The lines for the edges of the straps are
even in thickness and connect to the next perpendicular strap so that
it's clear they're passing over and under each other:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan2.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth4.jpg  (side of the bodice)

Melanie Schuessler



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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Canadian (Lattice) Smocking
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Status: RO


If I can steer this conversation away from the portrait of Queen  
Elizabeth, I believe that the original question was about this Italian  
Gown

http://www.wga.hu/art/b/bronzino/2/panciat2.jpg

susan (of 2 minds about the portrait of Elizabeth -- I can see it either way!)
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Canadian (Lattice) Smocking and Bronzino
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Status: RO

I thought the original question was how far back was the lattice/Canadian
smocking, most were saying 1800s and someone suggested that the Bronzino
might be an example and I suggested the Elizabethan was an example.
It is possible could be lattice if drawn very tightly, but it could also be
achieved by straight line gathers.
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2004/Anea.htm
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Angelo_Bronzino_037.jpg

De

-----Original Message-----
If I can steer this conversation away from the portrait of Queen
Elizabeth, I believe that the original question was about this Italian
Gown

http://www.wga.hu/art/b/bronzino/2/panciat2.jpg

susan (of 2 minds about the portrait of Elizabeth -- I can see it either
way!)
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement
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Status: RO

Fran, if you go in to the site and bring up coming events/proxy.com you 
should be able tosee the Show.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement


> Three Rivers has not posted an online catalog of the first day of this. 
> Are they going to?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fran
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
>
>> Yes Kathy , it is in a way.  But my 'children' need to grow and get on in 
>> the world.  Some of them have led a very reclusive life...and that is why 
>> they are beautiful. Getting on in age, myself, continuing the care 
>> necessary for the preservation and Conservation of such a wonderful 
>> collection will only become more complicated.  And so, I challenge 
>> another generation to take up cause.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
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Status: RO

At 01:32 PM 4/14/2007, you wrote:
>I somehow got the impression that pin-dotted fabric is in style so 
>it would be easy to find, but I think I was wrong about that.  I 
>went to the dentist in Berkeley on Wednesday and consoled myself by 
>going to three fabric stores over there (Poppy, Stonemountain, and 
>Discount Fabrics), and I wasn't seeing much in the way of pin dots.
>
>As for the dotted Swiss, I asked Baltazor how well their $15/yard 
>100% cotton batiste white Swiss would dye. (Why is it manufacturers 
>are so locked into the white/blue/pink/pale yellow colors for dotted 
>Swiss?) They said they didn't know whether the fabric would stand up 
>to machine dyeing, but offered to send me half a yard free of charge to test.
>
>Fran >>


Fran, I was doing some poking about just a little while ago, and 
found this site--don't know if you can use these, but here they 
are--and at considerably less than $15 a yard!

http://www.reprodepot.com/dots1.html

Dianne


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: AIR DATES:  "THE TUDORS: ROYAL STYLEMAKERS" 
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Status: RO

>>It is not on Showtime On Demand.  But The Tutors episodes 1-3 are On
Demand. I watched it last night.

Not yet.  Style network has an exclusive right now.  Showtime on Demand for
sure at some point.  Maybe's on E! and Showtime itself.  It's all a rating
game.

-Cat-

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]Canadian (Lattice) Smocking
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2007 17:19:47 -0700
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Status: RO

If you look at the bodice, which is not slashed, you see the pattern of =
the
material is the same as the sleeves and skirt, same spacing of large and
small dots. That argues for slashing, since the smocking would have =
changed
the distance between dots.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 9:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian (Lattice) Smocking


De,

I'm afraid we must agree to disagree.  To my eyes this is definitely=20
slashing or embroidery meant to look like slashing.  If you look at=20
other depictions of slashing, you'll see the same look--lines that are=20
heavier in the middle, narrower on the ends, and not connected:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan11.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/EdwardHoby1.jpg

Also, sleeves of strapwork (or even lattice smocking, should it turn out =

to have existed) are one thing, but a whole skirt of it seems less=20
plausible.

If you look at depictions of strapwork, on the other hand, you see a=20
completely different look.  The lines for the edges of the straps are=20
even in thickness and connect to the next perpendicular strap so that=20
it's clear they're passing over and under each other:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan2.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth4.jpg  (side of the bodice)

Melanie Schuessler


otsisto wrote:
> If you look at the dress it is not slashing. It could be strips of =
velvet
> woven together but I am more inclined to believe that it is lattice =
work.
> The embroidery (or small pinking) and the spangles are emphisizing the =
the
> woven look.
> http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php
>=20
>  http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg
>=20
> Please compare the first picture to the portrait's sleeve.
>=20
> I know that there are two other portraits out there that show the =
sleeves
to
> have what looks like lattice work but I can't seem to remember which
> portraits, one was "Italian".
>=20
> De



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Status: RO

Thanks, I'd forgotten about them. I just bought some pindot fabric!

Fran
> 
> 
> 
> Fran, I was doing some poking about just a little while ago, and found 
> this site--don't know if you can use these, but here they are--and at 
> considerably less than $15 a yard!
> 
> http://www.reprodepot.com/dots1.html
> 
> Dianne
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
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Status: RO

On Saturday 14 April 2007 1:32 pm, Lavolta Press wrote:
> I somehow got the impression that pin-dotted fabric is in style so it
> would be easy to find, but I think I was wrong about that. 

Polka-dotted prints are back in fashion, if you believe the NY Times, but 
pindots, and dotted swiss (which usually is associated with femininity and 
daintiness) is not. 

> As for the dotted Swiss, I asked Baltazor how well their $15/yard 100%
> cotton batiste white Swiss would dye. (Why is it manufacturers are so
> locked into the white/blue/pink/pale yellow colors for dotted Swiss?)

Because it's associated with the sweetness and light part of the feminine 
stereotype, and in general has been worn more by little girls than by women 
for as long as I've been alive.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Status: RO

I was looking for dotted swiss for a show I was costuming last fall.  
It was impossible to find white on white at a reasonable price.  I 
don't think the fabric has been in style since the 1950s when my play 
took place.  Lots of little girl dresses were made of it then.  I 
finally found 1 yard on an auction website.

Sylrog

On Apr 14, 2007, at 4:59 PM, Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:

> At 01:32 PM 4/14/2007, you wrote:
>> I somehow got the impression that pin-dotted fabric is in style so it 
>> would be easy to find, but I think I was wrong about that.  I went to 
>> the dentist in Berkeley on Wednesday and consoled myself by going to 
>> three fabric stores over there (Poppy, Stonemountain, and Discount 
>> Fabrics), and I wasn't seeing much in the way of pin dots.
>>
>> As for the dotted Swiss, I asked Baltazor how well their $15/yard 
>> 100% cotton batiste white Swiss would dye. (Why is it manufacturers 
>> are so locked into the white/blue/pink/pale yellow colors for dotted 
>> Swiss?) They said they didn't know whether the fabric would stand up 
>> to machine dyeing, but offered to send me half a yard free of charge 
>> to test.
>>
>> Fran >>
>
>
> Fran, I was doing some poking about just a little while ago, and found 
> this site--don't know if you can use these, but here they are--and at 
> considerably less than $15 a yard!
>
> http://www.reprodepot.com/dots1.html
>
> Dianne
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
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Status: RO

Yes, dotted Swiss is very expensive on most of the heirloom sewing 
sites. I suppose people only buy a little bit of fabric to clothe 
children and dolls, therefore it does not seem too expensive.  The 
Baltazor $15/yard Swiss batiste is the most reasonable I've run across 
in all cotton, although I've seen similar prices for cotton/poly (which 
I don't think I can dye).

I think what with eyelet so in fashion, other fabrics with embroidered 
textures may be so soon. Or maybe not.

I became interested in it when I bought some embroidered cotton kebayas 
from Indonesia whose ground fabric was basically dotted Swiss, although 
the seller did not call it that (I think they just called it "cotton"). 
  It's just a really nice sheer fabric for summer.

Fran

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I was looking for dotted swiss for a show I was costuming last fall.  It 
> was impossible to find white on white at a reasonable price.  I don't 
> think the fabric has been in style since the 1950s when my play took 
> place.  Lots of little girl dresses were made of it then.  I finally 
> found 1 yard on an auction website.
> 
> Sylrog

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Status: RO

Suzanne said: Mary, I love your tag line.  ("We don't have issues, we 
have subscriptions.")

Thanks!  I just wish I could remember where I stole it!  Maybe off a 
t-shirt or bumper sticker in a catalog, but I haven't gotten one 
recently & I can't think of the company name right now.

Mary
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Canadian (Lattice) Smocking
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2007 23:00:09 -0500
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Status: RO

The smocking would not change the distance of the "spangles" if you are
using the Latticework smocking.
http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php

The "spangles" would be running along the ridge of the lattice.

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg

I guess why I am stuck on the notion that this is latticework is because
twenty years ago I saw a dress in dark blue velvet, sleeves and bodice done
in latticework and it looked similar to EI's sleeves. I remember this
because the only time prior to that I saw it on pillows that my Aunt Betty
made back in the 70s.
De
-----Original Message-----
If you look at the bodice, which is not slashed, you see the pattern of the
material is the same as the sleeves and skirt, same spacing of large and
small dots. That argues for slashing, since the smocking would have changed
the distance between dots.

-----Original Message-----
De,

I'm afraid we must agree to disagree.  To my eyes this is definitely
slashing or embroidery meant to look like slashing.  If you look at
other depictions of slashing, you'll see the same look--lines that are
heavier in the middle, narrower on the ends, and not connected:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan11.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/EdwardHoby1.jpg

Also, sleeves of strapwork (or even lattice smocking, should it turn out
to have existed) are one thing, but a whole skirt of it seems less
plausible.

If you look at depictions of strapwork, on the other hand, you see a
completely different look.  The lines for the edges of the straps are
even in thickness and connect to the next perpendicular strap so that
it's clear they're passing over and under each other:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan2.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth4.jpg  (side of the bodice)

Melanie Schuessler


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Status: RO

Hi,
Exactly straight gathers was what i had in mind witht the italian portrait.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 11:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Canadian (Lattice) Smocking and Bronzino


>I thought the original question was how far back was the lattice/Canadian
> smocking, most were saying 1800s and someone suggested that the Bronzino
> might be an example and I suggested the Elizabethan was an example.
> It is possible could be lattice if drawn very tightly, but it could also 
> be
> achieved by straight line gathers.
> http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2004/Anea.htm
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Angelo_Bronzino_037.jpg
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> If I can steer this conversation away from the portrait of Queen
> Elizabeth, I believe that the original question was about this Italian
> Gown
>
> http://www.wga.hu/art/b/bronzino/2/panciat2.jpg
>
> susan (of 2 minds about the portrait of Elizabeth -- I can see it either
> way!)
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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	<001301c77f38$30c8ca70$67e73f50@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Canadian (Lattice) Smocking and Bronzino
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 10:34:52 +0200
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Status: RO

How about the portrait with the young man standing under a tree, by Nicolas 
Hilliard? His doublet has the same, but his doublet is braided i think.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Canadian (Lattice) Smocking and Bronzino


> Hi,
> Exactly straight gathers was what i had in mind witht the italian 
> portrait.
>
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 11:15 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] RE: Canadian (Lattice) Smocking and Bronzino
>
>
>>I thought the original question was how far back was the lattice/Canadian
>> smocking, most were saying 1800s and someone suggested that the Bronzino
>> might be an example and I suggested the Elizabethan was an example.
>> It is possible could be lattice if drawn very tightly, but it could also 
>> be
>> achieved by straight line gathers.
>> http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2004/Anea.htm
>> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Angelo_Bronzino_037.jpg
>>
>> De
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> If I can steer this conversation away from the portrait of Queen
>> Elizabeth, I believe that the original question was about this Italian
>> Gown
>>
>> http://www.wga.hu/art/b/bronzino/2/panciat2.jpg
>>
>> susan (of 2 minds about the portrait of Elizabeth -- I can see it either
>> way!)
>> -----
>> Susan Farmer
>> sfarmer@goldsword.com
>> University of Tennessee
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] pleating a francaise
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Status: RO

Hi,
My current projekt is making a francaise dress in red silk taffeta.
I have used the cut from a book called "Histoire du Costume" by Maurice 
Leloir. It s an old book, and mostly with drawings. I have copied the 
drawing of the dress and the pattern draft from the book:
 http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm
The back pleats are 6 small pleats wich i think is very unusual. I thoaght 
the devellopment of the pleats for Francaise dresses was smaller and smaller 
space for the pleats and smaller pleats two. So my question is: What date 
would you suggest the drawing of the lady to be? My guess was mid eighteenth 
century, but now i am not so sertain any more because of the pleats in the 
back.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie1.htm
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-12.htm
I had calculated to use much more width in the back pleats.
I guess it wont be this important if i use small or large pleats, if i use 
larger, i can add more width. But i was just currious, have you seen other 
examples with small pleated francaise dresses?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
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Status: RO

At 09:13 PM 4/14/2007, you wrote:
>I was looking for dotted swiss for a show I was costuming last fall.
>It was impossible to find white on white at a reasonable price.  I 
>don't think the fabric has been in style since the 1950s when my 
>play took place.  Lots of little girl dresses were made of it 
>then.  I finally found 1 yard on an auction website.
>
>Sylrog


I needed some a couple of years ago to make a chemise for 
someone--the price of it simply boggled my mind!

Dianne 

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Status: RO

Robin said:

<Page 2  -- row 3 right, that's one of us. Who? Mary Piero Carey? My 
lousy memory...

Yep, that's me.  However did I manage to get caught in that awkward 
stance?  Ah, well, I always look weird in photos...

Mary Piero Carey

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Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 12:18:06 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleating a francaise
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/15/2007 4:47:35 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

So my  question is: What date 
would you suggest the drawing of the lady to be? My  guess was mid eighteenth 
century, but now i am not so sertain any more  because of the pleats in the 
back.



********************
 
 
What gives it away for me is the CF opening of the stomacher. That makes me  
think 1770's. That would also be in keeping with the smaller back  pleats.



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Status: RO

I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of any sources
depicting unusual buttons/ button positioning on regency outergarments,
particularly spencers.

Thanks

Serena Dyer
http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk


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Status: RO

Fran, I just re-read your question and the awnser is No.  Alas. the first 
day sale will be a ton of jewelry ( Not mine), the remainder of my hats (not 
included in the catalogue; probably about 50/75), books related to 
fashion/costuming (my contrib to this catagory are movie/theater and a few 
collection guides).  Also probably about 500 pieces of vintage clothing 
(1940s/90s), and my purses of leather, crochet, mesh, and beading; a few 
compacts and pill boxes; shoes (19thC-20thC).  There are also other 
consiners with hats, purses, and other stuff related to fashion.

 The catalogue of 300 plus lots comprises about 1000 pieces.  I saved a few 
of the dresses and gowns that fit Me, also several of my best hats which I 
wear on many occasions, and most of my significant lace collection.

Yesterday I put together two dolls using some of my recent e-Bay purchases. 
One is a Gwenivere designed in the early 1960s; the other is a gorgeous Bru 
repro with red hair.  I used the Seeley body pattern this time and have your 
books at the ready for the wardrobe. I have found  that your pattern shapes 
as scaled can be used directly for dolls of the 18" scale. So, let my new 
career begin!

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement


> Three Rivers has not posted an online catalog of the first day of this. 
> Are they going to?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fran
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
>
>> Yes Kathy , it is in a way.  But my 'children' need to grow and get on in 
>> the world.  Some of them have led a very reclusive life...and that is why 
>> they are beautiful. Getting on in age, myself, continuing the care 
>> necessary for the preservation and Conservation of such a wonderful 
>> collection will only become more complicated.  And so, I challenge 
>> another generation to take up cause.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: [h-cost] Regency Hats and Bonnets
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Status: RO

Hello all

I was wondering if anyone could share any knowledge or tips about making
repro regency hats and bonnets.  I have tried a number of things over the
years, from buckram brimmed to altering straw hats but I have never been
happy with any of my efforts.  I'm looking to make something subtle, as I'm
not generally a 'hat' person, but I would also like it to be unusual and
interesting.

Any help/advise/suggestions/comments would be much appreciated.


Thanks

Serena Dyer
http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <FDEOJKPHECOCHDPJPGNIEEMNCCAA.serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buttons on outergarments
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 23:52:49 +0200
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Status: RO

I have in my head the picture of a spenser wich is laced together center 
front on top of buttons. But i cant for the world find where i have the 
picture from.
If i find out where, ill let you know..........

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Serena Dyer" <serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 10:12 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Buttons on outergarments


>I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of any sources
> depicting unusual buttons/ button positioning on regency outergarments,
> particularly spencers.
>
> Thanks
>
> Serena Dyer
> http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <FDEOJKPHECOCHDPJPGNIAEMNCCAA.serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency Hats and Bonnets
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 23:55:24 +0200
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Status: RO

I have a roll of hat material. It looks like straw wich is wowen by the 
yard, but its not natural material. It is used by hat makers. I use it for 
hats two. When you combine this material with dress material and hat wire, 
you get a nice result.
I live in Denmark, and dont know the english word for the material.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Serena Dyer" <serena@pemberleydesigns.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 10:10 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Regency Hats and Bonnets


> Hello all
>
> I was wondering if anyone could share any knowledge or tips about making
> repro regency hats and bonnets.  I have tried a number of things over the
> years, from buckram brimmed to altering straw hats but I have never been
> happy with any of my efforts.  I'm looking to make something subtle, as 
> I'm
> not generally a 'hat' person, but I would also like it to be unusual and
> interesting.
>
> Any help/advise/suggestions/comments would be much appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Serena Dyer
> http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Closure on June gown
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Status: RO

I'm finally making this dress: 

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/work/jdb06b.jpg

Obviously it laces up, so here's the question: How?
Are there lacing holes in the fabric? Are there lacing
rings on top of the fabric or hidden underneath? Or
what? I can see the lacing cord itself but not what
it's lacing through. Perhaps someone has already
worked it out. Any ideas?

Oh and while I'm at it (this is so not my period) what
would you say is the shape of the veil? Oval,
rectangle, or some combination? All observations
welcome.

Thanks in advance,

MaggiRos
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Subject: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item
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Status: RO

I would appreciate some feedback from the list members on this item that 
is nagging at me.

The Autry Museum here in Los Angeles has just opened a new exhibit 
called "California Style: Art and Fashion from the California Historical 
Society". Here is a link to the museum's main page: 
http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/

One of the items they are using to showcase the exhibit is right there 
on the front page, a red velvet dress circa 1883. Here's a link to the 
page on the dress itself:  
http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/california4.php

The thing that is really nagging at me is they keep calling it an 
evening dress and it really isn't an evening. You =might= get away with 
calling it a "dinner" dress, but not an evening dress proper. Granted, 
I'm a costumer, so I tend to notice these details, but that 
mis-identification seems pretty blatant to me, and I was wondering if it 
struck anyone else that way, too.

Thanks for your input,
Julie

PS - This isn't the first time I've encountered the mis-identification 
of a costume at the Autry. Several years ago they had two dresses on 
display in the front lobby that were very clearly mid-1850's, and yet 
the card identified them as 1873. Trust me, no way were these dresses 
from 1873. They were made from very delicate muslin, stamped with a 
geometric floral pattern, full bell-shaped skirts, without even the 
slightest hint yet of even the elliptical shape that was to come in the 
1860's, let alone a bustle silhouette (and no, they weren't displayed 
wrong). They both had straight waists, no curve or point at all, long 
bishop-type sleeves ending in a buttoned cuff. One buttoned down the 
front, one hooked down the back (lovely cartridge pleating on both 
dresses), and so on. There was enough attention to fashionable detail 
that the person who made the dresses did =not= make them 20 years out of 
style. I put a comment card in at the front desk and some time later 
actually received a call from the person who (ostensibly) donated the 
gowns to the museum. Said they were made by an ancestor (great 
grandmother or something like that) who made them when she first came to 
the US in the 1870's. I'm afraid I argued with him, cited several 
standard costume texts that he could reference for comparison, mentioned 
all the points I stated above, but he was...unconvinced, shall we say.

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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 20:12:51 -0300
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Status: RO

I would say it's an afternoon dress for going out in, definately not evening 
attire.  Evening dresses of the period had open necklines and short sleeves.

Kelly



An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign.


Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician





>From: Kiloran@worldnet.att.net
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item
>Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 15:53:28 -0700
>
>I would appreciate some feedback from the list members on this item that is 
>nagging at me.
>
>The Autry Museum here in Los Angeles has just opened a new exhibit called 
>"California Style: Art and Fashion from the California Historical Society". 
>Here is a link to the museum's main page: 
>http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/
>
>One of the items they are using to showcase the exhibit is right there on 
>the front page, a red velvet dress circa 1883. Here's a link to the page on 
>the dress itself:  http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/california4.php
>
>The thing that is really nagging at me is they keep calling it an evening 
>dress and it really isn't an evening. You =might= get away with calling it 
>a "dinner" dress, but not an evening dress proper. Granted, I'm a costumer, 
>so I tend to notice these details, but that mis-identification seems pretty 
>blatant to me, and I was wondering if it struck anyone else that way, too.
>
>Thanks for your input,
>Julie
>
>PS - This isn't the first time I've encountered the mis-identification of a 
>costume at the Autry. Several years ago they had two dresses on display in 
>the front lobby that were very clearly mid-1850's, and yet the card 
>identified them as 1873. Trust me, no way were these dresses from 1873. 
>They were made from very delicate muslin, stamped with a geometric floral 
>pattern, full bell-shaped skirts, without even the slightest hint yet of 
>even the elliptical shape that was to come in the 1860's, let alone a 
>bustle silhouette (and no, they weren't displayed wrong). They both had 
>straight waists, no curve or point at all, long bishop-type sleeves ending 
>in a buttoned cuff. One buttoned down the front, one hooked down the back 
>(lovely cartridge pleating on both dresses), and so on. There was enough 
>attention to fashionable detail that the person who made the dresses did 
>=not= make them 20 years out of style. I put a comment card in at the front 
>desk and some time later actually received a call from the person who 
>(ostensibly) donated the gowns to the museum. Said they were made by an 
>ancestor (great grandmother or something like that) who made them when she 
>first came to the US in the 1870's. I'm afraid I argued with him, cited 
>several standard costume texts that he could reference for comparison, 
>mentioned all the points I stated above, but he was...unconvinced, shall we 
>say.
>
>_______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item
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Status: RO

At 03:53 PM 4/15/2007, you wrote:
>I would appreciate some feedback from the list members on this item 
>that is nagging at me.
>
>The Autry Museum here in Los Angeles has just opened a new exhibit 
>called "California Style: Art and Fashion from the California 
>Historical Society". Here is a link to the museum's main page: 
>http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/
>
>One of the items they are using to showcase the exhibit is right 
>there on the front page, a red velvet dress circa 1883. Here's a 
>link to the page on the dress itself:
>http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/california4.php
>
>The thing that is really nagging at me is they keep calling it an 
>evening dress and it really isn't an evening. You =might= get away 
>with calling it a "dinner" dress, but not an evening dress proper. 
>Granted, I'm a costumer, so I tend to notice these details, but that 
>mis-identification seems pretty blatant to me, and I was wondering 
>if it struck anyone else that way, too.
>
>Thanks for your input,
>Julie

While I'm no expert in the clothes of the 1880s, this dress looks 
like a visiting dress.  There may have been another bodice 
(sleeveless or with short cap sleeves, wide decolletage) to be worn 
with the skirt for evening, but high-necked, long-sleeved bodice 
looks like an afternoon visiting dress to me.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 17:31:51 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Looks kind of dressy for an afternoon dress to me.  I think it would be 
considered a dinner dress for a not so formal occasion.    It brings to 
mind a movie I saw recently.  I can't remember what it was.  It may 
have been The Prestige or The Illusionist, since I rented both of them 
a couple weeks ago.  Or it may have been something I saw on tv, but it 
took place in the 1800s and the scene in question was at a theatre 
event in the evening with upper class patrons and I noticed that the 
women appeared to be in day dresses, which seemed wrong to me.  
Wouldn't women going to the theatre in the evening be wearing 
low-necked sleeveless dresses?

Sylvia

On Apr 15, 2007, at 5:19 PM, Joan Jurancich wrote:

> At 03:53 PM 4/15/2007, you wrote:
>> I would appreciate some feedback from the list members on this item 
>> that is nagging at me.
>>
>> The Autry Museum here in Los Angeles has just opened a new exhibit 
>> called "California Style: Art and Fashion from the California 
>> Historical Society". Here is a link to the museum's main page: 
>> http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/
>>
>> One of the items they are using to showcase the exhibit is right 
>> there on the front page, a red velvet dress circa 1883. Here's a link 
>> to the page on the dress itself:
>> http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/california4.php
>>
>> The thing that is really nagging at me is they keep calling it an 
>> evening dress and it really isn't an evening. You =might= get away 
>> with calling it a "dinner" dress, but not an evening dress proper. 
>> Granted, I'm a costumer, so I tend to notice these details, but that 
>> mis-identification seems pretty blatant to me, and I was wondering if 
>> it struck anyone else that way, too.
>>
>> Thanks for your input,
>> Julie
>
> While I'm no expert in the clothes of the 1880s, this dress looks like 
> a visiting dress.  There may have been another bodice (sleeveless or 
> with short cap sleeves, wide decolletage) to be worn with the skirt 
> for evening, but high-necked, long-sleeved bodice looks like an 
> afternoon visiting dress to me.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Closure on June gown
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Status: RO


On Sun, 15 Apr 2007, MaggiRos wrote:

> I'm finally making this dress: 
> 
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/work/jdb06b.jpg
> 
> Obviously it laces up, so here's the question: How?

It's not evident even in a very good reproduction, but I'd assume, at this
time and place, that it's lacing holes in the fabric.

> Oh and while I'm at it (this is so not my period) what would you say
> is the shape of the veil? Oval, rectangle, or some combination? All
> observations welcome.

Rectangle. There's one corner hanging just behind the top of her right
shoulder. (The little triangle between veil and neck is the same green as
the grass, so that's air there, not more veil.) There's another corner
hanging behind her right upper arm, just next to the hem of the blue
sleeve. Maybe not visible on-screen but clear enough in a good repro. So,
I'd say a linen rectangle draped over the head with the short side on the
right. This is exactly what you'd get if you had a headwrap that you
pulled loose and let hang; in fact the woman's companion (not shown in
your web image) has a headwrap of the sort that would be made of the same
type of linen rectangle.

It is important to note that it's quite unlikely this style of dress would
have been routinely worn by fieldworkers. The Limbourgs tended to
romanticize their peasants, and I do not see the fitted style worn in
other images of fieldworkers. Working middle-class women, yes, but not
peasants. So that may be a bit of a stretch specific to the circumstances
of this particular manuscript. But that said, you can build a case of
sorts on this image, and that would be sufficient for purposes of, say,
competition documentation.

--Robin


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Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 19:12:45 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/15/2007 6:59:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Kiloran@worldnet.att.net writes:

Said  they were made by an ancestor (great 
grandmother or something like that)  who made them when she first came to 
the US in the  1870's.


Ah, yes, the problem with "Great Aunt Minnie," who made this from scratch,  
may even have raised the cotton herself!  (A classmate, not in costume,  once 
showed me a shawl her aunts had supposedly made--well, they may have BOUGHT  
it--they were a dime a dozen, I think sold in Havana for the tourist  trade.)
 
Ann Wass



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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 20:01:28 -0500
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Status: RO

Not an expert of this era mind you but if they were to take the jacket off 
and we could see the neckline of what is underneath then perhaps it would be 
more clear why they identified it as an evening dress.

What were the rules when wearing that deep shade of red? Or were there rules 
like there is for the wedding dress being worn to all engagements for a 
specific amount of time after the wedding?

Chiara


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Kiloran@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 5:53 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item


>I would appreciate some feedback from the list members on this item that is 
>nagging at me.
>
> The Autry Museum here in Los Angeles has just opened a new exhibit called 
> "California Style: Art and Fashion from the California Historical 
> Society". Here is a link to the museum's main page: 
> http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/
>
> One of the items they are using to showcase the exhibit is right there on 
> the front page, a red velvet dress circa 1883. Here's a link to the page 
> on the dress itself:  http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/california4.php
>
> The thing that is really nagging at me is they keep calling it an evening 
> dress and it really isn't an evening. You =might= get away with calling it 
> a "dinner" dress, but not an evening dress proper. Granted, I'm a 
> costumer, so I tend to notice these details, but that mis-identification 
> seems pretty blatant to me, and I was wondering if it struck anyone else 
> that way, too.
>
> Thanks for your input,
> Julie
>
> PS - This isn't the first time I've encountered the mis-identification of 
> a costume at the Autry. Several years ago they had two dresses on display 
> in the front lobby that were very clearly mid-1850's, and yet the card 
> identified them as 1873. Trust me, no way were these dresses from 1873. 
> They were made from very delicate muslin, stamped with a geometric floral 
> pattern, full bell-shaped skirts, without even the slightest hint yet of 
> even the elliptical shape that was to come in the 1860's, let alone a 
> bustle silhouette (and no, they weren't displayed wrong). They both had 
> straight waists, no curve or point at all, long bishop-type sleeves ending 
> in a buttoned cuff. One buttoned down the front, one hooked down the back 
> (lovely cartridge pleating on both dresses), and so on. There was enough 
> attention to fashionable detail that the person who made the dresses did 
> =not= make them 20 years out of style. I put a comment card in at the 
> front desk and some time later actually received a call from the person 
> who (ostensibly) donated the gowns to the museum. Said they were made by 
> an ancestor (great grandmother or something like that) who made them when 
> she first came to the US in the 1870's. I'm afraid I argued with him, 
> cited several standard costume texts that he could reference for 
> comparison, mentioned all the points I stated above, but he 
> was...unconvinced, shall we say.
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item 
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Status: RO

definitely not an evening dress.
 
looks like an afternoon / walking / visiting (you get the idea!) dress  to me.
 
it's always possible that it had / has a second bodice that was cut as  an 
evening bodice that they aren't showing - there are several dresses that do -  
but as it's pictured, it's not a formal evening dress



   
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Status: RO

Thanks!  Is it OK if I pass this email on to another list where I 
mentioned the auction?

Thanks,

Fran

LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:

> Fran, I just re-read your question and the awnser is No.  Alas. the 
> first day sale will be a ton of jewelry ( Not mine), the remainder of my 
> hats (not included in the catalogue; probably about 50/75), books 
> related to fashion/costuming (my contrib to this catagory are 
> movie/theater and a few collection guides).  Also probably about 500 
> pieces of vintage clothing (1940s/90s), and my purses of leather, 
> crochet, mesh, and beading; a few compacts and pill boxes; shoes 
> (19thC-20thC).  There are also other consiners with hats, purses, and 
> other stuff related to fashion.
> 
> The catalogue of 300 plus lots comprises about 1000 pieces.  I saved a 
> few of the dresses and gowns that fit Me, also several of my best hats 
> which I wear on many occasions, and most of my significant lace collection.
> 
> Yesterday I put together two dolls using some of my recent e-Bay 
> purchases. One is a Gwenivere designed in the early 1960s; the other is 
> a gorgeous Bru repro with red hair.  I used the Seeley body pattern this 
> time and have your books at the ready for the wardrobe. I have found  
> that your pattern shapes as scaled can be used directly for dolls of the 
> 18" scale. So, let my new career begin!
> 
> Kathleen
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 3:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement
> 
> 
>> Three Rivers has not posted an online catalog of the first day of 
>> this. Are they going to?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Fran
>> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
>> LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
>>
>>> Yes Kathy , it is in a way.  But my 'children' need to grow and get 
>>> on in the world.  Some of them have led a very reclusive life...and 
>>> that is why they are beautiful. Getting on in age, myself, continuing 
>>> the care necessary for the preservation and Conservation of such a 
>>> wonderful collection will only become more complicated.  And so, I 
>>> challenge another generation to take up cause.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement
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Status: RO

Fran -

That will be fine, and thanks!

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement


> Thanks!  Is it OK if I pass this email on to another list where I 
> mentioned the auction?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fran
>
> LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
>
>> Fran, I just re-read your question and the awnser is No.  Alas. the first 
>> day sale will be a ton of jewelry ( Not mine), the remainder of my hats 
>> (not included in the catalogue; probably about 50/75), books related to 
>> fashion/costuming (my contrib to this catagory are movie/theater and a 
>> few collection guides).  Also probably about 500 pieces of vintage 
>> clothing (1940s/90s), and my purses of leather, crochet, mesh, and 
>> beading; a few compacts and pill boxes; shoes (19thC-20thC).  There are 
>> also other consiners with hats, purses, and other stuff related to 
>> fashion.
>>
>> The catalogue of 300 plus lots comprises about 1000 pieces.  I saved a 
>> few of the dresses and gowns that fit Me, also several of my best hats 
>> which I wear on many occasions, and most of my significant lace 
>> collection.
>>
>> Yesterday I put together two dolls using some of my recent e-Bay 
>> purchases. One is a Gwenivere designed in the early 1960s; the other is a 
>> gorgeous Bru repro with red hair.  I used the Seeley body pattern this 
>> time and have your books at the ready for the wardrobe. I have found 
>> that your pattern shapes as scaled can be used directly for dolls of the 
>> 18" scale. So, let my new career begin!
>>
>> Kathleen
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lavolta Press" 
>> <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 3:09 PM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement
>>
>>
>>> Three Rivers has not posted an online catalog of the first day of this. 
>>> Are they going to?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Fran
>>> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>>
>>> LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yes Kathy , it is in a way.  But my 'children' need to grow and get on 
>>>> in the world.  Some of them have led a very reclusive life...and that 
>>>> is why they are beautiful. Getting on in age, myself, continuing the 
>>>> care necessary for the preservation and Conservation of such a 
>>>> wonderful collection will only become more complicated.  And so, I 
>>>> challenge another generation to take up cause.
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

I could never bring myself to part with my stuff . . . Thanks.

Fran


LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:

> Fran -
> 
> That will be fine, and thanks!
> 
> Kathleen
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 9:36 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement
> 
> 
>> Thanks!  Is it OK if I pass this email on to another list where I 
>> mentioned the auction?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Fran
>>
>>
_______________________________________________
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From: "Anna Zola Piggie Rethie" <tartanwaffle@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 18th century theatre costumes
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Status: RO

I'm writing a paper and making a posterboard about theatrical costume in the
18th century (particularly as relates to productions of The Recruiting
Officer by George Farquhar, though that's not really necessary), and since I
know there are several people here who know a great deal about 18th century
costume in general I thought I'd ask if anyone knew of any resources
(websites, books, etc) about the subject. Pictures also would be very
useful, since nobody really looks at a posterboard unless it has pretty
pictures. :D

Please and thank you,

- Anna
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century theatre costumes
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Status: RO

Anna Zola Piggie Rethie wrote:

> I'm writing a paper and making a posterboard about theatrical costume in 
> the
> 18th century 


_Costume in the Theatre_ by James Laver. 1964.

Long out of print, but copies show up occasionally. He discusses theatre 
costuming from Greece to the 20th century. There's no specific section 
on the 18th century, but he does cover it in various places in the book, 
and there are black and white illustrations.



Dawn


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From: "margaret" <m.p.decker@att.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 22:50:58 -0500
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Status: RO

It is most likely a mis-identification by the donor. This is always a 
problem for museums.
Margaret 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dotted Swiss
From: Aylwen & John Garden <garden@netspeed.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I don't know the price, but I've seen dotted swiss at
http://www.farmhousefabrics.com

Cheers, Aylwen


On 15/4/07 11:00 PM, "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy4@comcast.net> wrote:

> At 09:13 PM 4/14/2007, you wrote:
>> I was looking for dotted swiss for a show I was costuming last fall.
>> It was impossible to find white on white at a reasonable price.  I
>> don't think the fabric has been in style since the 1950s when my
>> play took place.  Lots of little girl dresses were made of it
>> then.  I finally found 1 yard on an auction website.
>> 
>> Sylrog
> 
> 
> I needed some a couple of years ago to make a chemise for
> someone--the price of it simply boggled my mind!
> 
> Dianne 
> 
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From: "Paula Praxis" <praxis_729@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 22:48:15 -0700
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Status: RO

I totally agree with you.  Those long sleeves and high neck are more of a 
waking dress.  I made a similar one - smaller bustle - about 9 years ago.
I don't think this will post to the general h-costume community, but for 
what it's worth I agree with you.  I also live in the LA area and am 
planning on seeing the exhibit soon.
Paula S.


>From: Kiloran@worldnet.att.net
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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>Subject: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item
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>
>I would appreciate some feedback from the list members on this item that is 
>nagging at me.
>
>The Autry Museum here in Los Angeles has just opened a new exhibit called 
>"California Style: Art and Fashion from the California Historical Society". 
>Here is a link to the museum's main page: 
>http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/
>
>One of the items they are using to showcase the exhibit is right there on 
>the front page, a red velvet dress circa 1883. Here's a link to the page on 
>the dress itself:  http://www.autrynationalcenter.org/california4.php
>
>The thing that is really nagging at me is they keep calling it an evening 
>dress and it really isn't an evening. You =might= get away with calling it 
>a "dinner" dress, but not an evening dress proper. Granted, I'm a costumer, 
>so I tend to notice these details, but that mis-identification seems pretty 
>blatant to me, and I was wondering if it struck anyone else that way, too.
>
>Thanks for your input,
>Julie
>
>PS - This isn't the first time I've encountered the mis-identification of a 
>costume at the Autry. Several years ago they had two dresses on display in 
>the front lobby that were very clearly mid-1850's, and yet the card 
>identified them as 1873. Trust me, no way were these dresses from 1873. 
>They were made from very delicate muslin, stamped with a geometric floral 
>pattern, full bell-shaped skirts, without even the slightest hint yet of 
>even the elliptical shape that was to come in the 1860's, let alone a 
>bustle silhouette (and no, they weren't displayed wrong). They both had 
>straight waists, no curve or point at all, long bishop-type sleeves ending 
>in a buttoned cuff. One buttoned down the front, one hooked down the back 
>(lovely cartridge pleating on both dresses), and so on. There was enough 
>attention to fashionable detail that the person who made the dresses did 
>=not= make them 20 years out of style. I put a comment card in at the front 
>desk and some time later actually received a call from the person who 
>(ostensibly) donated the gowns to the museum. Said they were made by an 
>ancestor (great grandmother or something like that) who made them when she 
>first came to the US in the 1870's. I'm afraid I argued with him, cited 
>several standard costume texts that he could reference for comparison, 
>mentioned all the points I stated above, but he was...unconvinced, shall we 
>say.
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Apr 16 05:44:15 2007
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 05:38:37 -0400
Organization: Five Rivers
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Regency Hats and Bonnets 
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Status: RO

	You might want to investigate some of the Country Wives caps and
bonnet patterns. When we carried historical sewing patterns, I was proud to
have this line as part of our repertoire, as they are historical accurate
and drafted based on solid research and documentation of literally hundreds
of extant examples, have excellent engineering and very clear and sewing
instructions as well as recommendations as to historically appropriate
materials.

	You can obtain the patterns directly through Judy McPherson, one of
the ladies of Country Wives, at baggage@mts.net . Tell her Lorina sent you.
:-)

Regards,
Lorina Stephens
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Now available: Recipes
of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200704152132.l3FLWLhx015955@net.indra.com><4622ACE8.1060107@worldnet.att.net><200704152322.l3FNM6Ae079441@net.indra.com>
	<001101c77fda$9ccedff0$3bb14a0c@toshibauser>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 08:52:18 -0400
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Status: RO

My favorite  "questionable" is in a historical museum in NH. It features a 
lovely silk Regency dress as being 1778; the direct donor was a family 
member!  Another dress in the same museum presents a turn-of-the-20 century 
cotton print  two piece ensemble as a 'Lowell  mills' dress from the 1870s. 
I am a bit of a 'wrong dating' snob and have taken many opportunities to ask 
for a date correction  when I encounter them in the market place.  And we 
all know that
anything older than 10 years is an antique!

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "margaret" <m.p.decker@att.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 11:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item


> It is most likely a mis-identification by the donor. This is always a 
> problem for museums.
> Margaret
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century theatre costumes
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 15:22:43 +0200
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Status: RO

The specific play you refers to is american?
I know that in 18th century Copenhagen, they used ordinary fashionable 
clothes in plays. The noblemen gave away their court suits to the theaters, 
as they could not give away such fine clothes to their servants, because 
they were not allowed to wear it. This is the gentlemens costumes.
I guess the same was used for female costumes. I have some prints from 
Galleries des Modes et Costumes francaise wich shows opera costumes, they 
are all looking like 18th century fashionable clothes, except they are 
embellished with symbols.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Anna Zola Piggie Rethie" <tartanwaffle@gmail.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 5:32 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 18th century theatre costumes


> I'm writing a paper and making a posterboard about theatrical costume in 
> the
> 18th century (particularly as relates to productions of The Recruiting
> Officer by George Farquhar, though that's not really necessary), and since 
> I
> know there are several people here who know a great deal about 18th 
> century
> costume in general I thought I'd ask if anyone knew of any resources
> (websites, books, etc) about the subject. Pictures also would be very
> useful, since nobody really looks at a posterboard unless it has pretty
> pictures. :D
>
> Please and thank you,
>
> - Anna
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century theatre costumes
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Status: RO

From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century theatre costumes
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
"The Recruiting Officer" was written by an Irishman but is set in
Shrewsbury, England. AFAIK it has a contemporary setting, so the actors
would have worn ordinary clothes (or uniform for the military
characters, of course).

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The specific play you refers to is american?
I know that in 18th century Copenhagen, they used ordinary fashionable

clothes in plays. The noblemen gave away their court suits to the
theaters, 
as they could not give away such fine clothes to their servants,
because 
they were not allowed to wear it. This is the gentlemens costumes.
I guess the same was used for female costumes. I have some prints from

Galleries des Modes et Costumes francaise wich shows opera costumes,
they 
are all looking like 18th century fashionable clothes, except they are

embellished with symbols.

Bjarne



Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 09:43:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Closure on June gown
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I was pretty sure it's a romanticised peasant dress.
That blue wouldn't last long in the sunny fields, but
I just love it. and since I'm not actually doing much
harvesting these days, I'll have it to stroll around
the tourney field or teach a class in, or whatever.

Thanks, Robin!

MaggiRos


--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

> 
> On Sun, 15 Apr 2007, MaggiRos wrote:
> 
> > I'm finally making this dress: 
> > 
> > http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/work/jdb06b.jpg
> > 
> > Obviously it laces up, so here's the question:
> How?
> 
> It's not evident even in a very good reproduction,
> but I'd assume, at this
> time and place, that it's lacing holes in the
> fabric.
> 
> > Oh and while I'm at it (this is so not my period)
> what would you say
> > is the shape of the veil? Oval, rectangle, or some
> combination? All
> > observations welcome.
> 
> Rectangle. There's one corner hanging just behind
> the top of her right
> shoulder. 
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Closure on June gown
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 16:03:42 -0500
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Status: RO

What makes you think it is romanticised?
Peasants wore blues, reds, yellows,...wide range of colors, not just earth
tones.

De

-----Original Message-----
I was pretty sure it's a romanticised peasant dress.
That blue wouldn't last long in the sunny fields, but
I just love it. and since I'm not actually doing much
harvesting these days, I'll have it to stroll around
the tourney field or teach a class in, or whatever.

Thanks, Robin!

MaggiRos


--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

> > I'm finally making this dress:
> >
> > http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/work/jdb06b.jpg
> >


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <c72.11742743.3353aa3e@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleating a francaise
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 20:05:00 +0200
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Status: RO

Hi,
Thanks for your thoaghts.............

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pleating a francaise


>
> In a message dated 4/15/2007 4:47:35 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
> So my  question is: What date
> would you suggest the drawing of the lady to be? My  guess was mid 
> eighteenth
> century, but now i am not so sertain any more  because of the pleats in 
> the
> back.
>
>
>
> ********************
>
>
> What gives it away for me is the CF opening of the stomacher. That makes 
> me
> think 1770's. That would also be in keeping with the smaller back  pleats.
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at 
> http://www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 18:42:14 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Closure on June gown
In-Reply-To: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPGEFJIOAA.otsisto@socket.net>
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Status: RO


On Mon, 16 Apr 2007, otsisto wrote:

> What makes you think it is romanticised?
> Peasants wore blues, reds, yellows,...wide range of colors, not just earth
> tones.

First off, the blue in question is lapis/ultramarine, a shade not
achievable in fabric dyes at this time. It is used in very rich
manuscripts such as this, and not normally this liberally but this is an
extraordinary manuscript. But yes, peasants wore a wide range of colors,
including blues. In fact, blue was probably the cheapest purchased dyed
fabric at this time.

I consider the image to be romanticized for reasons other than color. In
particular, this is the only image I have seen of a peasant wearing a
tightly fitted dress, a style popular among the upper class and moneyed
middle class. Although it would be physically possible to do fieldwork in
this sort of gown, it would be an unlikely choice, and not economically
viable for women of this class for a variety of reasons. Such a dress is
more expensive to make; it would not hold up as well to hard work as would
a looser dress with fewer curved seams and less stress on the seams, and
thus would need replacement sooner; and it is not as easily passed down to
other wearers as a less fitted dress.

--Robin

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Closure on June gown
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 18:12:57 -0500
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Status: RO

Had not thought about easement. Though not in that shade of blue, could it
have been a hand-me-down?

De

-----Original Message-----
First off, the blue in question is lapis/ultramarine, a shade not achievable
in fabric dyes at this time. It is used in very rich
manuscripts such as this, and not normally this liberally but this is an
extraordinary manuscript. But yes, peasants wore a wide range of colors,
including blues. In fact, blue was probably the cheapest purchased dyed
fabric at this time.

I consider the image to be romanticized for reasons other than color. In
particular, this is the only image I have seen of a peasant wearing a
tightly fitted dress, a style popular among the upper class and moneyed
middle class. Although it would be physically possible to do fieldwork in
this sort of gown, it would be an unlikely choice, and not economically
viable for women of this class for a variety of reasons. Such a dress is
more expensive to make; it would not hold up as well to hard work as would
a looser dress with fewer curved seams and less stress on the seams, and
thus would need replacement sooner; and it is not as easily passed down to
other wearers as a less fitted dress.

--Robin


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Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 19:38:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Closure on June gown
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Status: RO


On Mon, 16 Apr 2007, otsisto wrote:

> Had not thought about easement. Though not in that shade of blue,
> could it have been a hand-me-down?

Read again what I wrote (copied below).

1. That shade of blue did not exist in fabric. Woad blue would be
perfectly reasonable for all classes.

2. Ease of movement is not so much an issue in a well-made fitted dress,
but expense is, and so is shorter garment life under hard stress.

3. That kind of dress is harder to hand down without refitting; it can be
done, but is not as economically feasible for the lower classes compared
with looser dresses (both because of the fitting issue and also the
likelihood that the dress would not survive substantial hard work long
enough to be handed down).

It is certainly possible that a middle-class woman might hand down a dress
to a lower-class woman, but more likely that such a dress would be kept in
the family or -- if given to someone of lower class -- be given to a
domestic servant, not a field worker.

Here's what I wrote earlier:

> First off, the blue in question is lapis/ultramarine, a shade not
> achievable in fabric dyes at this time. It is used in very rich
> manuscripts such as this, and not normally this liberally but this is
> an extraordinary manuscript. But yes, peasants wore a wide range of
> colors, including blues. In fact, blue was probably the cheapest
> purchased dyed fabric at this time.
> 
> I consider the image to be romanticized for reasons other than color.
> In particular, this is the only image I have seen of a peasant wearing
> a tightly fitted dress, a style popular among the upper class and
> moneyed middle class. Although it would be physically possible to do
> fieldwork in this sort of gown, it would be an unlikely choice, and
> not economically viable for women of this class for a variety of
> reasons. Such a dress is more expensive to make; it would not hold up
> as well to hard work as would a looser dress with fewer curved seams
> and less stress on the seams, and thus would need replacement sooner;
> and it is not as easily passed down to other wearers as a less fitted
> dress.
> 
> --Robin

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From: "Anna Zola Piggie Rethie" <tartanwaffle@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 18th century theatre costumes
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Status: RO

I'm talking mostly about Britain, but any information relating to other
countries is also perfectly welcome. That's really interesting about the
gentlemen's court suits in Denmark.

I'm talking both about The Recruiting Officer as performed when it was first
written (1706), and as it was performed by the British convicts in Australia
in 1789. It is a comedy, I know that would also probably effect the way it
would be costumed. Of course the version of it performed in Australia would
have necessarily much simpler clothes. I'm also looking at this from the
point of view of being someone who is costuming a play about the convicts
who put on The Recruiting Officer in Australia. I have to come up with some
sort of costumes for the convicts as their characters in The Recruiting
Officer. So far as I know and can remember, there's no documentation of
anything about that 1789 production other than that it happened and that it
was directed by Lieutenant Ralph Clark.

-Anna
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century theatre costumes
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Status: RO

This may be too late to be of any use to you (1799-1849) but the New =
York Public Library has a nice collection of theater cards showing =
actors in their costumes:
http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital/explore/dgexplore.cfm?topic=3D=
arts&collection=3DPennyPlainsandTwopen&col_id=3D152

The costumes don't look like regular clothes of the time - they are very =
exaggerated and over-the-top.

Janet
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Status: RO

Anyone outside the US, who wants to order books (new or used) from any 
bookseller or publisher within the US, would be best off doing it soon, 
so that the books can be shipped before May 6.  The reason is, the USPS 
currently gives US publishers and booksellers a good discounted 
international shipping rate called Surface M-Bag.  In addition to 
raising some other postal costs in mid-May, they are doing away with the 
Surface M-Bags, and not providing a substitute. This means that, for an 
order of any particular weight, the cost of paying for a book shipment 
from the US will be greatly increased. A lot of booksellers are 
complaining, but all the USPS is doing is making noises about maybe 
studying the issue sometime. In other words, probably nothing.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Closure on June gown
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 21:52:25 -0500
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Status: RO

I got the blue part that is why I said "not in that shade of blue". :)
I was thinking about upper class donating to churches and the churches
handing to the masses. But I see your point and such a dress, if by some
means got into the hands of a farmer gal, it would more likely be used as
her Sunday best then out in the fields.

De

-----Original Message-----
On Mon, 16 Apr 2007, otsisto wrote:

> Had not thought about easement. Though not in that shade of blue,
> could it have been a hand-me-down?

Read again what I wrote (copied below).

1. That shade of blue did not exist in fabric. Woad blue would be
perfectly reasonable for all classes.

2. Ease of movement is not so much an issue in a well-made fitted dress,
but expense is, and so is shorter garment life under hard stress.

3. That kind of dress is harder to hand down without refitting; it can be
done, but is not as economically feasible for the lower classes compared
with looser dresses (both because of the fitting issue and also the
likelihood that the dress would not survive substantial hard work long
enough to be handed down).

It is certainly possible that a middle-class woman might hand down a dress
to a lower-class woman, but more likely that such a dress would be kept in
the family or -- if given to someone of lower class -- be given to a
domestic servant, not a field worker.
snip
> I consider the image to be romanticized for reasons other than color.
> In particular, this is the only image I have seen of a peasant wearing
> a tightly fitted dress, a style popular among the upper class and
> moneyed middle class. Although it would be physically possible to do
> fieldwork in this sort of gown, it would be an unlikely choice, and
> not economically viable for women of this class for a variety of
> reasons. Such a dress is more expensive to make; it would not hold up
> as well to hard work as would a looser dress with fewer curved seams
> and less stress on the seams, and thus would need replacement sooner;
> and it is not as easily passed down to other wearers as a less fitted
> dress.
>
> --Robin


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Closure on June gown
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On Mon, 16 Apr 2007, otsisto wrote:

> I got the blue part that is why I said "not in that shade of blue". :)

Ah, I see, I parsed the sentence a little differently ... sorry!

--Robin

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Closure on June gown
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

In the end, the pattern I used is much more like a
working gown that a fitted, multi-seamed gown. In
fact, it's only got the two side seams, with the width
of the skirt built in. (I started with a mundane tunic
pattern where you lay the piece on the fold. Then I
pin one pin at the center top then swing the bottom
corner way out away from the center.) The only curve
is a little nip at the side seam waist. 

It was easy, I can do it myself in the middle of the
night, and it's easy to adjust. I also just have too
much tummy and too little bosom for a Medieval Fitted
Gown to look anything but dumpy on me. (That's the
Elizabethan in me, squeaking complaint.) I'll do
pictures as soon as it's done.

So except for the richness of the blue, and the
fineness of the wool, it would probably pass for a
house servant's dress. I prefer to think of it as Her
Ladyship supervising the spring cleaning at the manor
house.

Thanks for all the notes.

MaggiRos
--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:


> I consider the image to be romanticized for reasons
> other than color. In
> particular, this is the only image I have seen of a
> peasant wearing a
> tightly fitted dress, a style popular among the
> upper class and moneyed
> middle class. Although it would be physically
> possible to do fieldwork in
> this sort of gown, it would be an unlikely choice,
> and not economically
> viable for women of this class for a variety of
> reasons. Such a dress is
> more expensive to make; it would not hold up as well
> to hard work as would
> a looser dress with fewer curved seams and less
> stress on the seams, and
> thus would need replacement sooner; and it is not as
> easily passed down to
> other wearers as a less fitted dress.
> 
> --Robi
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Status: RO

Years ago, new to reenacting, I made one of these, too. My skill level
was much lower then. I basically made a t-tunic and made sure to make it
too small, so the front opening was necessary. I no longer have the
thing but I do remember that it was easy to make and the lacing did all
the fitting for me and I lent it to other women who were different sizes
and it still worked. If I recall, I didn't have a lot of fabric and was
able to make a dress with a pretty decent amount of skirt (gores). And I
do know that I didn't have a lot of scrap left over, so it was a pretty
efficient use of material.  Now, what I made was a glorified T-tunic.
And I understand that this might not have been the approach a peasant
woman of the day would have taken. But the look was achievable by at
least one method of simple cutting not that far removed from the looser
peasant approach to clothing construction.

I don't doubt the June scene is somewhat idyllic. But I don't think that
means such dresses were never worn at all by peasants.

Astrida

******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

=20
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Closure on June gown
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Status: RO


On Tue, 17 Apr 2007, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:

> ... Now, what I made was a glorified T-tunic. And I understand that
> this might not have been the approach a peasant woman of the day would
> have taken. But the look was achievable by at least one method of
> simple cutting not that far removed from the looser peasant approach
> to clothing construction.
> 
> I don't doubt the June scene is somewhat idyllic. But I don't think
> that means such dresses were never worn at all by peasants.

I think there's a long scale between "unfitted" and "highly fitted"; it's
not an either-or situation. 

The style that I was suggesting was unlikely to be routinely worn by
peasants is the highly fitted, bust-elevating, body-manipulating type.
(Note I say "unlikely" and "routinely" here; I wouldn't say "never," but
it's not a logical choice, and it's not supported by the evidence from the
period.) The Limbourgs painted the June fieldworker in the same manner
and with the same silhouette as they painted noblewomen; it's sort of a
stock figure for them. This is the characteristic I find suspect when
assessing the realism of the image.

More realistically, you can get some gown shaping, as opposed to tight
fitting, by doing exactly as you described above. If you're young, perky,
and lucky, you may have something of the fashionable silhouette all on
your own without the dress doing it for you, and a shaped dress will
approximate the look. If you aren't young and perky, you'll need the dress
to do more work, and that's where you get into the higher-class tailoring
of the highly fitted dress.

--Robin

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Closure on June gown
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Status: RO

 =20
>If you're young, perky, and lucky, you may have something of the=20
>fashionable silhouette all on your own without the dress doing=20
>it for you, and a shaped dress will approximate the look. If=20
>you aren't young and perky, you'll need the dress to do more=20
>work, and that's where you get into the higher-class tailoring=20
>of the highly fitted dress.

Considering that I was in my early 20s, that may be why it worked!   ; )

I should try the experiment again on my early 40s, post-baby body....

A

******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 18th century theatrical costumes.
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Status: RO

>This may be too late to be of any use to you (1799-1849) but the New
York Public Library has a nice collection >of theater cards showing
actors in their costumes:
http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital/explore/dgexplore.cfm?topic=arts&collection=PennyPlainsandTwopen&col_id=152


>The costumes don't look like regular clothes of the time - they are
very exaggerated and over-the-top.

>Janet

Great - I enjoyed browsing through these.

 To my eyes, the women's costumes look very much influenced by  the
current fashions of the1830s, which always do strike me as over-the-top.
The "historical" and "exotic" costumes are pretty fanciful, but the
numerous sailor characters are wearing pretty much what sailors of the
time would have worn, at least for "best".


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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Status: RO

Fran, I have just returned from the Auction hall.  After telling me that the 
first day things would not be on line to see, I have just spent the last 7 
hours photographing a goodly number of clothing that will be offered on the 
28th.  My instructions were to select some of the quality pieces that would 
be representative of the offerings for Day One.  So, done!

I hope you were able to bring up a picture listing of some of the 
assessories that will be featured on the 28th.

Cheers, kathleen


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement


>I could never bring myself to part with my stuff . . . Thanks.
>
> Fran
>
>
> LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
>
>> Fran -
>>
>> That will be fine, and thanks!
>>
>> Kathleen
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lavolta Press" 
>> <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 9:36 PM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement
>>
>>
>>> Thanks!  Is it OK if I pass this email on to another list where I 
>>> mentioned the auction?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Fran
>>>
>>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Thanks for taking the time!  I'll go look.

Fran

LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:

> Fran, I have just returned from the Auction hall.  After telling me that 
> the first day things would not be on line to see, I have just spent the 
> last 7 hours photographing a goodly number of clothing that will be 
> offered on the 28th.  My instructions were to select some of the quality 
> pieces that would be representative of the offerings for Day One.  So, 
> done!
> 
> I hope you were able to bring up a picture listing of some of the 
> assessories that will be featured on the 28th.
> 
> Cheers, kathleen
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 10:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement
> 
> 
>> I could never bring myself to part with my stuff . . . Thanks.
>>
>> Fran
>>
>>
>> LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
>>
>>> Fran -
>>>
>>> That will be fine, and thanks!
>>>
>>> Kathleen
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lavolta Press" 
>>> <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 9:36 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] lifetime antique/vintage costume dispersement
>>>
>>>
>>>> Thanks!  Is it OK if I pass this email on to another list where I 
>>>> mentioned the auction?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Fran
>>>>
>>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Apr 17 22:13:03 2007
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From: Linda Walton <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com>
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Status: RO

Hello !

While I was researching recently for an 
essay about local effects of the English 
Civil War, I came across this item in 
"The English Civil war:  A People's 
History" by Diane Purkiss, (page 282).

"Messengers, scouts and spies, including 
'certain adventurous women' concealing 
secret dispatches in their voluminous 
skirts, passed to and fro, often using 
High Wycombe as their base."

(High Wycombe - where I live - was about 
half way, (about 30 miles each way), 
between the royal court at Oxford and 
Parliamentary London, and had lots of 
inns and major markets.)

This piece about the 'adventurous women' 
  has excited my curiosity, so that I'd 
love to know how they might have hidden 
their dispatches.  Unfortunately I've no 
idea what women were wearing at the 
time.  Would they have sewn them into a 
hem?  Tucked them into some sort of hip 
padding?  Inside a lining?

The author doesn't footnote her source, 
so I've no way of following up the 
story, but if anyone recognises it, I'd 
dearly love to know about that, too. 
 From the context, it seems to refer to 
about 1643.

Yours gratefully,
Linda Walton,
(of High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 18th century theatre costumes
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2007 14:42:25 -0700
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Status: RO

Interesting that they costumed George IV, (r. 1820-1830), in quasi
Elizabethan garb.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of JAMES OGILVIE
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 7:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century theatre costumes


This may be too late to be of any use to you (1799-1849) but the New =
York
Public Library has a nice collection of theater cards showing actors in
their costumes:
http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital/explore/dgexplore.cfm?topic=3D=
arts&
collection=3DPennyPlainsandTwopen&col_id=3D152

The costumes don't look like regular clothes of the time - they are very
exaggerated and over-the-top.

Janet
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Status: RO

Recently on one of the lists, someone posted a site that had, in addition to frog closures, directions for making a monkey claw button (a round button made of cord).  I did not save the site, and wouldn't you know, a few weeks later I need to make monkey claw buttons.  Does any one remember the site we discussed, or another site with directions for monkey claw buttons?
 
Pardon the cross-posting, those of you on multiple lists, and thanks in advance for your help, all.
 
Jane In NO VA
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From: slc_fire <slc_fire@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Monkey Claw Buttons
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I would love to have this link also!
   
  I did, however, learned how to make woven buttons recently. They are woven on a loom and look gorgeous.  I can't wait to make more and add them to one of my Persian coats!
   
  Thanks!
  Sheree
  

Jane Pease <jmdpease@att.net> wrote:
  Recently on one of the lists, someone posted a site that had, in addition to frog closures, directions for making a monkey claw button (a round button made of cord). I did not save the site, and wouldn't you know, a few weeks later I need to make monkey claw buttons. Does any one remember the site we discussed, or another site with directions for monkey claw buttons?

Pardon the cross-posting, those of you on multiple lists, and thanks in advance for your help, all.

Jane In NO VA
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200704171722.l3HHM37V029038@net.indra.com><4625182E02000014000CF7EC@Cluster1_gwise3_server.derby.ac.uk>
	<462527BE.1090803@dsl.pipex.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cavalier/Roundhead Lady Spies
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 20:05:38 +0200
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Status: RO

Dear Linda,
Only not an english documentation, but danish. Leonora Christina, ran away 
from Denmark with all her jewels sewed into the linning of her boned bodice. 
She wrote this herself some years later in her french autobiography.
Her husband had taken more than good from the danish state, and eventually 
had to escape out of the country. She had her documents sewed into her muf.
Leonora Christina was illegitimate daughter of Christian IV of Denmark she 
was born in 1617.
Later she was caught, and putten into prison for 21 years. In the later part 
of her inprisonment, she was allowed paper and pen, and she wrote the story 
of her years in prison, and also a french autobiography about her whole 
life.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linda Walton" <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 10:02 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Cavalier/Roundhead Lady Spies


> Hello !
>
> While I was researching recently for an essay about local effects of the 
> English Civil War, I came across this item in "The English Civil war:  A 
> People's History" by Diane Purkiss, (page 282).
>
> "Messengers, scouts and spies, including 'certain adventurous women' 
> concealing secret dispatches in their voluminous skirts, passed to and 
> fro, often using High Wycombe as their base."
>
> (High Wycombe - where I live - was about half way, (about 30 miles each 
> way), between the royal court at Oxford and Parliamentary London, and had 
> lots of inns and major markets.)
>
> This piece about the 'adventurous women' has excited my curiosity, so that 
> I'd love to know how they might have hidden their dispatches. 
> Unfortunately I've no idea what women were wearing at the time.  Would 
> they have sewn them into a hem?  Tucked them into some sort of hip 
> padding?  Inside a lining?
>
> The author doesn't footnote her source, so I've no way of following up the 
> story, but if anyone recognises it, I'd dearly love to know about that, 
> too. From the context, it seems to refer to about 1643.
>
> Yours gratefully,
> Linda Walton,
> (of High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] knitted garters (when) are they period?
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Status: RO

Hi, All. I am curious, did the original poster mention what part of the 
16th C. they are recreating? I don't know of any extant garters from the 
period (the whole period, 1500-1600) that are knitted, and imagery of 
the period that I have seen neither confirms or denies the base of 
material used. I seem to vaguely remember a written piece that might 
shed some light, but what it was, and from when, I can't remember. The 
place to look, IMO, is in the Stuart Press books from Stu Peachey in 
England. He and his group have done extensive research into many 
subjects of the period in question. If the questioner is just looking in 
general, as opposed todoing some sort of scholarly or judged work, I'd 
suggest making a pair (in wool, of course) and fulling them. Many 
recovered pieces of knitting from the period have had to be looked at 
very closely to determine the method of manufacture, and, besides, the 
elasticity of knitted garters is one of their benefits. As some of our 
reenactment ladies mention, if you are up under my skirts checking 
something, you had better have a damned good reason...Good Luck, Mike T.


>  
>
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From: "Sharon Henderson" <henderson.sharon@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Monkey Claw Buttons
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Status: RO

Hi all,

There's a monkey claw/monkey fist knot, found here:

http://www.realknots.com/knots/faqknot.htm

Perhaps the monkey claw button is this knot done in finer cord?  It
looks as if it would make a lovely button!

Meli
Eastern Virginia,
USA
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Seeking a picture ID
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Status: RO


Another question that's come up as I edit a paper. This one is about the
dress of a particular Byzantine guard unit in Constantinople. The author
cites a manuscript image, but doesn't give a folio number. I'm querying
the author, but in the meantime I found two references to the image in
books, and so perhaps one of them has a clear citation.

Does anyone here have either of these books? If so, can you look up the
picture referenced here, and see if they give the folio number of the
painting?

Heath, I. (1979) 'Byzantine armies 886-1118', Osprey Men-at-arms series,
89, p.27

Heath, I. 'The Vikings', Osprey Elite series, 3, p.25

The picture is from a manuscript known as the Chronicle of Skylitzes, and
shows an image of the Varangian Guard at the Hippodrome that might be
folio 26 of that manuscript. Or it might be folio 26v. Or it might be
something else. Any clarification is most welcome.

Thanks!

--Robin


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Status: RO

Hi, All. Linda, I have never seen any details regarding where documents 
of this type were hidden (specifically, that is). The historical sources 
usually say something like, "on or about their person". It being seen as 
a piece of uncomely work to go about roughing up your betters and 
ladies, one would suspect that the searching, if it was done, was to 
ones baggage rather than ones person, unless there was evidence of some 
sort of concealment. In that case, it could be anywhere, in a shoe, in a 
hat, sewn into clothing, slipped into a book one is carrying, etc. I 
have found that, if the book you are researching was recently published 
(10 years or so), it sometimes helps to try and contact the author. I 
have done this by searching their name online. If a scholar, their info 
can sometimes be found on University or museum databases with a work 
phone # or e-mail addy. You could also read through the relevant 
bibliographical info if it is listed by chapter. Good Luck, Mike T.  PS 
I recently posted to the list about Stu Peachey's work on this and 
similar subjects. You might want to contact him through Stuart Press. 
This is just the sort of ephemera that he likes to turn up. MJT


>
>
> This piece about the 'adventurous women'  has excited my curiosity, so 
> that I'd love to know how they might have hidden their dispatches.  
> Unfortunately I've no idea what women were wearing at the time.  Would 
> they have sewn them into a hem?  Tucked them into some sort of hip 
> padding?  Inside a lining?
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Call for Papers: Dress and Identity, RSA, Chicago,
	April 3-5, 2008
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Status: RO

Renaissance Society of America Annual Meeting, Chicago, April 3-5, 2008.
The Communication of Appearances: Dress and Identity in the
Early Modern World

Relying on a broad definition of fashion, this CFP aims to attract several
panels focusing on one or more of the following issues: the material realities
in which fashion is engendered; the diffusion of particular sartorial styles;
and the complex ways in which clothes reveal the wearer’s gender, social
status, and hers or his intellectual, political, religious and cultural values.
The direct symbolic relation of clothes with identity, clarifies well the
polyvalent language of attire, thus inviting an interdisciplinary approach,
which will bring together specialists in communication studies, art
history/visual studies, literature, anthropology, political sociology, and
more.
Possible suggested topics:
1. Various expositions of how early modern geographical discoveries,
technological innovations, and the related expansion of urban centers, markets,
and products affected the daily lives and appearances of contemporaries.
2. National styles and their influence throughout Europe and the New World, with
particular reference to Italian fashion during the Renaissance, Spanish fashion
during the Catholic Reformation, and French fashion from the times of Louis XIV
onwards. Of course, subtle analysis of sartorial evolution should transcend
all-encompassing discourses of zeitgeist, cutting across social and regional
divides. Changes in design, reflecting contemporary ideas of proper appearance
and taste, should be confronted with specific cases of personal and group
agency across social, regional, and gender divides.
3. The ways in which women and men used apparel and cosmetics for body
improvement or concealment.
4. Sumptuary Laws: including the various strategies applied by governments and
city councils to restrain expenditures on attire, as well as the physical
marking of socially undesirable groups such as Jews and prostitutes.
5. Clothes as disguises: for example, Carnivalesque costumes showing the
ritualized opportunities used to symbolically subvert and transgress sartorial
conventions.
6. The functions of supposedly unchangeable forms of clothing (anti-fashions)
used in public ceremonies by monarchs/princes/rulers, civic officers, and
clerics.

No geographic limitations apply, and papers dealing with any related topic are
welcome.

Proposals should include the following items:
1. Preliminary abstract, 150 words.
2. CV with e-mail address, phone and fax numbers.
Please send them by April 30, 2007 via e-mail attachments to: Gabriel Guarino:
guarinog@gmail.com; or guarino@research.haifa.ac.il






-- 
Gabriel Guarino, Ph.D.
Department of General History
University of Haifa
Tel. (Home): +972-4-9593337
Cellular: 0525-662275



------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Status: RO

Robin, I have the Osprey book here in front of me.

Pg. 25, half page illos in b&w. 
Caption reads:
"Though depicting an event of the 9th century, the artist of the
Byzantine Madrid Skylitzes portrayed the Emperor's bodyguards as
12th-century Varangian Guardsmen.  Eighteen of their famous axes are in
evidence, as well as four unit standards and seven spears. (Bibllioteca
Nacional, Madrid)

I can scan and send this to you , if you like.

HTH,

::Linda::


-----Original Message-----
 On Behalf Of Robin Netherton

Another question that's come up as I edit a paper. This one is about the
dress of a particular Byzantine guard unit in Constantinople. The author
cites a manuscript image, but doesn't give a folio number. I'm querying
the author, but in the meantime I found two references to the image in
books, and so perhaps one of them has a clear citation.

Does anyone here have either of these books? If so, can you look up the
picture referenced here, and see if they give the folio number of the
painting?

Heath, I. (1979) 'Byzantine armies 886-1118', Osprey Men-at-arms series,
89, p.27

Heath, I. 'The Vikings', Osprey Elite series, 3, p.25

The picture is from a manuscript known as the Chronicle of Skylitzes,
and
shows an image of the Varangian Guard at the Hippodrome that might be
folio 26 of that manuscript. Or it might be folio 26v. Or it might be
something else. Any clarification is most welcome.

Thanks!

--Robin


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Status: RO


Just cute.

http://www.askdreldritch.com/comic.html

Laurie
(who lives in the "Biblio Belt")

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From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Monkey Claw Buttons
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Status: RO

Apparently I have these links saved at home and not at work.  There are sev=
eral sites devoted to frogs, Chinese knotting.  A Google search should turn=
 it up...but look for monkey PAW rather than claw.  There's another name as=
 well...Turkish something.
Julie

----  <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
>=20
> Recently on one of the lists, someone posted a site that had, in addition=
 to frog closures, directions for making a monkey claw button (a round butt=
on made of cord).  I did not save the site, and wouldn't you know, a few we=
eks later I need to make monkey claw buttons.  Does any one remember the si=
te we discussed, or another site with directions for monkey claw buttons?
> =20
> Pardon the cross-posting, those of you on multiple lists, and thanks in a=
dvance for your help, all.
> =20
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Monkey Claw Buttons
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Status: RO

Julie wrote:

>Apparently I have these links saved at home and not at work.  There are several sites devoted to frogs, Chinese knotting.  A Google search should turn it up...but look for monkey PAW rather than claw.  There's another name as well...Turkish something.
>
>  
>

Turk's head.
http://www.layhands.com/knots/knots_decorative.htm

And the other one is neither paw nor claw, but "monkey's fist".
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkey's_fist

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Seeking a picture ID
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Status: RO


On Wed, 18 Apr 2007, Linda Rice wrote:

> Robin, I have the Osprey book here in front of me. ... I can scan and
> send this to you , if you like.

Thanks, but I actually have a scan of the image. What I need is the folio
number. Is there a credit anywhere in the book that lists the folio
number? It might be in the caption, in fine print near the image, or in a
list in the back keyed to page number. The manuscript itself is from
Madrid, Biblioteca Nacional de Espana. For that matter, if there is a
manuscript number (usually but not always begins with MS) I need that too!

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: tudors news
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Status: RO

>>For some reason I got an email yesterday from the film company that =
makes
or distributes "The Tudors," which was discussed here. (I don't get =
cable so
I've never seen it). Apparently they think I might like to become a =
stock
holder!=20

Hey, you've been invited to become part of the whole Hollywood =
production
machine.  <G>  That's probably Peace Arch, the production company.

The rest of your answers... I'm getting from the Showtime folks....

>>Anyway, the headline of the email was that The Tudors will have a
second season. How much time did it cover, anyway?

First season: " Supposedly each episode of the 10 episodes in Season 1
covers one year of Henry's reign. . . although Michael Hirst has
acknowledged that he's fudged with history.   It's Henry from around age =
25
up until the court procedings to divorce Katherine of Aragon."

(yea, I hear the groaning, that's why it's in quotes.)

Second season (warning this sounds like a commercial and didn't look up =
to
see what years it really is): "The second season will be even juicier =
than
the first as we get into the infamous marriage of Henry VIII to Anne =
Boleyn,
the birth of their daughter Elizabeth (who would one day become the =
greatest
ruler in English history), the execution of Sir Thomas More, the =
Reformation
of the church under the zealous supervision of Thomas Cromwell, and,
finally, the infamous beheading of Anne after only three years of =
marriage.
HEADS WILL ROLL!"

Oh... and while we're talking about "The Tudors", got some more dates on =
the
fashion special.

It is making it to Showtime with lots of regular On-Air and getting a =
few
more STYLE Network plays:=20
Friday, April 27:   7:40 pm on SHO=20
Saturday, April 28:  2 a.m. on STYLE=20
Sunday, April 29:   12:30 am on SHO and 10 am on STYLE=20
Friday, May 4:  8:35 pm on SHO=20
Wednesday, May 9:  10:35 pm on SHO=20
Tuesday, May 15:  8:40 pm on SHO=20
Wednesday, May 23:  3:40 pm on SHO=20
Saturday, May 26:  2:05 pm on SHO=20
Sunday, May 27:  6:35 pm on SHO=20
Thursday, May 31:  10:40 pm on SHO

-Cat-

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>, <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Seeking a picture ID
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 20:37:54 -0400
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Status: RO

Eureka~!!!

http://www.geocities.com/egfrothos/Adoption.html 

::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Robin Netherton

 Thanks, but I actually have a scan of the image. What I need is the
folio
number. Is there a credit anywhere in the book that lists the folio
number? It might be in the caption, in fine print near the image, or in
a
list in the back keyed to page number. The manuscript itself is from
Madrid, Biblioteca Nacional de Espana. For that matter, if there is a
manuscript number (usually but not always begins with MS) I need that
too!

--Robin


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Linda Rice <vmaa2@cox.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Seeking a picture ID
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Status: RO


On Wed, 18 Apr 2007, Linda Rice wrote:

> http://www.geocities.com/egfrothos/Adoption.html

Alas, this is part of the problem. I think this (or a similar web page
I've already seen) is where the author got the folio number she used in
her article. It is almost certainly wrong, and if it is right, it needs
clarification; 26v-a is not a standard format for manuscript folio
numbers. You see, along with the number of a folio, there's a letter
telling you which side of the page you're looking at: "r" or "a"  stands
for for "recto," or the front side; "b" or "v" means "verso," or the back
side. So this is either 26v or 26a, but cannot be 26v-a unless there's a
nonstandard numbering system being used, which must be explained.

Note that this article is on a re-enactor's personal web page. Web
articles in general tend to lift images and other details from one
another, and articles like this are often based on information gathered in
some part via web research ... so errors tend to be repeated over and
over.  The article looks to be very good for what it is, and probably very
helpful to other re-enactors, particularly since it provides a coherent
summary of a topic and directs them to specific sources for more. But it's
not something I can use as anything more than a clue for a detail like
this, which needs verification elsewhere before it's published in a
scholarly paper in a peer-reviewed journal.  That's why I was hoping I'd
find a published source with a photo citation for this particular image.

At this point, having exhausted the obvious sources, I turn the question
back over to the article's author to do the legwork, which probably will
involve contacting the owning library. I hope she speaks Spanish.

--Robin


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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 12:04:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kenet Muir <ckenet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Monkey Claw Buttons
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I have a site for tying a monkey's fist would that
help?

Kenet

http://www.animatedknots.com/monkeysfist/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

--- Jane Pease <jmdpease@att.net> wrote:

> Recently on one of the lists, someone posted a site
> that had, in addition to frog closures, directions
> for making a monkey claw button (a round button made
> of cord).  I did not save the site, and wouldn't you
> know, a few weeks later I need to make monkey claw
> buttons.  Does any one remember the site we
> discussed, or another site with directions for
> monkey claw buttons?
>  
> Pardon the cross-posting, those of you on multiple
> lists, and thanks in advance for your help, all.
>  
> Jane In NO VA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Status: RO


For some reason I got an email yesterday from the film company that makes or
distributes "The Tudors," which was discussed here. (I don't get cable so
I've never seen it). Apparently they think I might like to become a stock
holder! Anyway, the headline of the email was that The Tudors will have a
second season. How much time did it cover, anyway?

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Monkey Claw Buttons
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 15:07:17 -0700
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Status: RO

On Apr 18, 2007, at 2:47 PM, Julie wrote:
> Apparently I have these links saved at home and not at work.  There  
> are several sites devoted to frogs, Chinese knotting.  A Google  
> search should turn it up...but look for monkey PAW rather than  
> claw.  There's another name as well...Turkish something.

There are two different "Monkey's Paw" or "Monkey's Fist" knot.

There's the coil-style (as found by Sharon):
<http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/monkpawcoil.html>
It can be formed around a core (as in the link above) or without a  
core (as in Sharon's link), and can produce a very nice ball either way.

Turk's Head knots are different.
<http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/turkhed.html>
The basic Turk's Head is a decorative wrap or fastening, made around  
a cylinder. Totally not what we're looking for here.

<http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/monkpaw.html>
The Turk's Head style "Monkey Paw" is formed flat and then bent over  
a core. It gives a different look than the coil-style monkey's paw.

andy
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking a picture ID
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Status: RO

I have the Byzantine Armies one, too, but it doesn't give a folio 
number. Ospreys are not noted for their detailed references, 
unfortunately!

Jean


Linda Rice <vmaa2@cox.net> wrote
>Robin, I have the Osprey book here in front of me.
>
>Pg. 25, half page illos in b&w.
>Caption reads:
>"Though depicting an event of the 9th century, the artist of the
>Byzantine Madrid Skylitzes portrayed the Emperor's bodyguards as
>12th-century Varangian Guardsmen.  Eighteen of their famous axes are in
>evidence, as well as four unit standards and seven spears. (Bibllioteca
>Nacional, Madrid)
>
>I can scan and send this to you , if you like.
>
>HTH,
>
>::Linda::
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
> On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
>
>Another question that's come up as I edit a paper. This one is about the
>dress of a particular Byzantine guard unit in Constantinople. The author
>cites a manuscript image, but doesn't give a folio number. I'm querying
>the author, but in the meantime I found two references to the image in
>books, and so perhaps one of them has a clear citation.
>
>Does anyone here have either of these books? If so, can you look up the
>picture referenced here, and see if they give the folio number of the
>painting?
>
>Heath, I. (1979) 'Byzantine armies 886-1118', Osprey Men-at-arms series,
>89, p.27
>
>Heath, I. 'The Vikings', Osprey Elite series, 3, p.25
>
>The picture is from a manuscript known as the Chronicle of Skylitzes,
>and
>shows an image of the Varangian Guard at the Hippodrome that might be
>folio 26 of that manuscript. Or it might be folio 26v. Or it might be
>something else. Any clarification is most welcome.
>
>Thanks!
>
>--Robin
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Status: RO


> Hi Linda, further to Mike and Bjarne's comments, I tried a little experiment and found the easiest place to hide a letter 'about my person' was between my shift and corset. 
>   
Stevie Davies, 'Unbridled Spirits, Women of the English Revolution: 
1640-1660 is a very useful source.
regards
Joy Shillaker
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Hi again Linda,
 it is also very easy to suspend a pouch or similar from a belt between 
under and outer petticoats.
 regards Joy Shillaker
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Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2007 09:39:01 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Cavalier/Roundhead lady spies
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Status: RO

Linda Walton wrote :
>This piece about the 'adventurous women'   has excited my curiosity,
so that I'd love to know how they might
>have hidden their dispatches.  Unfortunately I've no idea what women
were wearing at the time.  Would they
 >have sewn them into a hem?  Tucked them into some sort of hip
padding?  Inside a lining?

As I do English Civil War, I can't resist this one.

Women's skirts at the time were bulky but not supported by any hoops
etc., though unless you have very big hips you need a small bumroll to
get the correct silhouette. They would have worn voluminous petticoats.
Clothing in general tended to be so heavy compared to what we wear
nowadays that it wouldn't have been too difficult to find somewhere to
hide a document.

See  http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/HOLLAR.HTM 


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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Subject: [h-cost] Woven Buttons was: Monkey Claw Buttons
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Whoops - I got over zealous in deleting and lost the post about which I am
inquiring.  Someone in response the Monkey claw buttons subject said they
were weaving buttons on a loom?  Can you share more about that?

Thanks,

Saragrace

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 3:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Monkey Claw Buttons

On Apr 18, 2007, at 2:47 PM, Julie wrote:
> Apparently I have these links saved at home and not at work.  There  
> are several sites devoted to frogs, Chinese knotting.  A Google  
> search should turn it up...but look for monkey PAW rather than  
> claw.  There's another name as well...Turkish something.

There are two different "Monkey's Paw" or "Monkey's Fist" knot.

There's the coil-style (as found by Sharon):
<http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/monkpawcoil.html>
It can be formed around a core (as in the link above) or without a  
core (as in Sharon's link), and can produce a very nice ball either way.

Turk's Head knots are different.
<http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/turkhed.html>
The basic Turk's Head is a decorative wrap or fastening, made around  
a cylinder. Totally not what we're looking for here.

<http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/monkpaw.html>
The Turk's Head style "Monkey Paw" is formed flat and then bent over  
a core. It gives a different look than the coil-style monkey's paw.

andy
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Monkey FIST-- No wonder I could not find anything on monkey claw buttons!  Thank you to everyone who responded so thoroughly--I have lots to work with now.

Jane in No VA
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woven Buttons was: Monkey Claw Buttons
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Status: RO

I think that might have been me.  I first learned how to make wrapped (woven) buttons from the Renaissance Tailor web site http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_buttons.htm but then a very nice lady taught me her method of making the same kind of button on a loom (saves the hands from aching and goes SUPER fast).  
   
  I haven't found a website with the technique yet so I'll try to write up how I was taught after lunch today. This might be an interesting technique to make into a youtube demo. hmmmm I  may do that at a later date.
   
  Sheree
   
  
WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
  Whoops - I got over zealous in deleting and lost the post about which I am
inquiring. Someone in response the Monkey claw buttons subject said they
were weaving buttons on a loom? Can you share more about that?

Thanks,

Saragrace

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 3:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Monkey Claw Buttons

On Apr 18, 2007, at 2:47 PM, Julie wrote:
> Apparently I have these links saved at home and not at work. There 
> are several sites devoted to frogs, Chinese knotting. A Google 
> search should turn it up...but look for monkey PAW rather than 
> claw. There's another name as well...Turkish something.

There are two different "Monkey's Paw" or "Monkey's Fist" knot.

There's the coil-style (as found by Sharon):

It can be formed around a core (as in the link above) or without a 
core (as in Sharon's link), and can produce a very nice ball either way.

Turk's Head knots are different.

The basic Turk's Head is a decorative wrap or fastening, made around 
a cylinder. Totally not what we're looking for here.


The Turk's Head style "Monkey Paw" is formed flat and then bent over 
a core. It gives a different look than the coil-style monkey's paw.

andy
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Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2007 06:28:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: slc_fire <slc_fire@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Monkey Claw Buttons
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

That was absolutely perfect!! Thank you so much Kenet!!  
  

Kenet Muir <ckenet@yahoo.com> wrote:
  I have a site for tying a monkey's fist would that
help?

Kenet

http://www.animatedknots.com/monkeysfist/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

--- Jane Pease wrote:

> Recently on one of the lists, someone posted a site
> that had, in addition to frog closures, directions
> for making a monkey claw button (a round button made
> of cord). I did not save the site, and wouldn't you
> know, a few weeks later I need to make monkey claw
> buttons. Does any one remember the site we
> discussed, or another site with directions for
> monkey claw buttons?
> 
> Pardon the cross-posting, those of you on multiple
> lists, and thanks in advance for your help, all.
> 
> Jane In NO VA
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] FW: [vintagefabrics]  Fun finds
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Status: RO

Thought some of you might be interested.  If not for this particular item,
there may be some other goodies....might have to spend some time here!

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: Sheryl Till [mailto:sctill@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 9:49 AM
To: Vintage Fabrics
Subject: [vintagefabrics] Re: Fun finds

Joan Kiplinger wrote:
> Leigh -- is that the correct url for the first one? I keep getting an 
> error that it's for website master only.
>
Hi Leigh,

Go to this url and then type the listing /Textile Fiber Atlas /into the 
search engine to get to the collection:

http://www.sil.si.edu/digitalcollections/HistoryCultureCollections/




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Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2007 12:03:42 -0400
From: Jeanine Swick <jeanine@woollycat.net>
To: SiWeb <siliconweb@yahoogroups.com>, ICG-D@yahoogroups.com,
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Status: RO

This is from a belly dance list I'm on.  Any suggestions for her?  I've 
already posted never put anything like nail polish on vintage fabric. 

    Jeanine
    ^..^
    >J<

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	[costumers_notes] Restoring old fabric
Date: 	Wed, 18 Apr 2007 02:01:59 -0000
From: 	Bhavato (Sonja) <mabhavato@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: 	costumers_notes@yahoogroups.com
To: 	costumers_notes@yahoogroups.com



I have just volunteered to 'rescue' an old bra and belt assemble for
my teacher..... The top fabric looks like it is 100 years old and is
slowly falling apart. However, it has very integrate bead work on it,
and she really likes the set to be preserved. I know how to 'rescue'
the back side (new interfacing and lining, but what would be the best
way to stabalize the fabric on the outside without damaging the bead
work? I was thinking about sealing the beadwork (once I reinforce the
beadwork) with nailpolish - what do you gals think?

:)
Bhavato



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Jeanine Swick wrote:

> This is from a belly dance list I'm on.  Any suggestions for her?  I've 
> already posted never put anything like nail polish on vintage fabric.
>    Jeanine
>    ^..^
>    >J<


I know you mean well, and I'm not trying to be bitchy, but isn't it just 
a little rude to take somebody else's message and crosspost it to a 
whole bunch of other lists?



Dawn


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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Status: RO

Cat Devereaux wrote:

> Second season (warning this sounds like a commercial and didn't look up to
> see what years it really is): "The second season will be even juicier than
> the first as we get into the infamous marriage of Henry VIII to Anne Boleyn,
> the birth of their daughter Elizabeth (who would one day become the greatest
> ruler in English history), the execution of Sir Thomas More, the Reformation
> of the church under the zealous supervision of Thomas Cromwell, and,
> finally, the infamous beheading of Anne after only three years of marriage.
> HEADS WILL ROLL!"

Thanks for the update! Maybe I should see if the first season will be out on
DVD, I could use a good comedy series to watch.

Yes, the post I got was from Peace Arch, a rather bizarre name for a film
production company. My favorite part of the post was also from an
explanation of the series, something about Henry taking on the "all-powerful
Catholic Church." That statement begs for arguments of all sorts, but the
best one is that if he got rid of it, then it wasn't exactly all-powerful!

This one is pretty good, too, especially the part about Elizabeth being the
greatest ruler in English history. One of them, sure. But that's quite a
claim. How about, say, William the Conquerer?

Oh well, I guess it will be around for at least one more year...

Gail Finke

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] tudors
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2007 14:48:51 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Amazon.com already has the first season of "The Tudors" listed as
forthcoming on their site. But no release date or cost has been set. My
local Best Buy carries DVDs of HBO series available on DVD so I will
probably check for it there when it comes out.

I don't get HBO, but what pics I've seen of the costuming, a blue-eyed
Anne Boleyn, and Sam Neill as Wolsey(well, okay, real-life actors have
to be easier on the eyes than resembling real people) historical
accuracy wasn't the first concern of this production. Let me know if I'm
wrong.

Cynthia Abel, ILL Coordinator
Creighton University Health Sciences Library
cynthiaabel@creighton.edu
402 280 5144


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Gail & Scott Finke
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 1:04 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] tudors

Cat Devereaux wrote:

> Second season (warning this sounds like a commercial and didn't look=20
> up to see what years it really is): "The second season will be even=20
> juicier than the first as we get into the infamous marriage of Henry=20
> VIII to Anne Boleyn, the birth of their daughter Elizabeth (who would=20
> one day become the greatest ruler in English history), the execution=20
> of Sir Thomas More, the Reformation of the church under the zealous=20
> supervision of Thomas Cromwell, and, finally, the infamous beheading
of Anne after only three years of marriage.
> HEADS WILL ROLL!"

Thanks for the update! Maybe I should see if the first season will be
out on DVD, I could use a good comedy series to watch.

Yes, the post I got was from Peace Arch, a rather bizarre name for a
film production company. My favorite part of the post was also from an
explanation of the series, something about Henry taking on the
"all-powerful Catholic Church." That statement begs for arguments of all
sorts, but the best one is that if he got rid of it, then it wasn't
exactly all-powerful!

This one is pretty good, too, especially the part about Elizabeth being
the greatest ruler in English history. One of them, sure. But that's
quite a claim. How about, say, William the Conquerer?

Oh well, I guess it will be around for at least one more year...

Gail Finke

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Forwarding posts,
	was [costumers_notes] Restoring old fabric
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Status: RO

Gosh, I do this on a regular basis if I have permission of the person who
wrote the note...maybe I am missing the point; who is supposed to be the
offended person?  The recipients or the person who wrote the original note?

Confused in AZ,
Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 11:07 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] [Fwd: [costumers_notes] Restoring old fabric]

Jeanine Swick wrote:

> This is from a belly dance list I'm on.  Any suggestions for her?  I've 
> already posted never put anything like nail polish on vintage fabric.
>    Jeanine
>    ^..^
>    >J<


I know you mean well, and I'm not trying to be bitchy, but isn't it just 
a little rude to take somebody else's message and crosspost it to a 
whole bunch of other lists?



Dawn


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Status: RO

Thought some of you might be interested.  If not for this particular item,
there may be some other goodies....might have to spend some time here!

 

Sg

 

-----Original Message-----

From: Sheryl Till [mailto:sctill@earthlink.net]

Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 9:49 AM

To: Vintage Fabrics

Subject: [vintagefabrics] Re: Fun finds

 

Joan Kiplinger wrote:

> Leigh -- is that the correct url for the first one? I keep getting an 

> error that it's for website master only.

> 

Hi Leigh,

 

Go to this url and then type the listing /Textile Fiber Atlas /into the
search engine to get to the collection:

 

http://www.sil.si.edu/digitalcollections/HistoryCultureCollections/

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Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2007 17:32:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forwarding posts, was [costumers_notes] Restoring old
	fabric
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Status: RO


On Thu, 19 Apr 2007, WickedFrau wrote:

> Gosh, I do this on a regular basis if I have permission of the person
> who wrote the note...maybe I am missing the point; who is supposed to
> be the offended person?  The recipients or the person who wrote the
> original note?

I wouldn't think there would be any issue if you get an OK from the
original poster first, as you say. We don't know if that was the case
here, however, because the person who did the forwarding didn't indicate
whether it was done with permission.

Occasionally people have forwarded my posts, without my permission, to
other lists. I know they mean well, but I don't appreciate it. If someone
asks for permission, I often give it, but there are sometimes reasons I
don't want to be a presence on certain lists, or don't want certain
queries/comments of mine bandied about among other net-populations. (It's
very embarrassing, for instance, when I'm asking about a point raised in
an article I'm editing, and the post is forwarded to a list where the
author of the article is active, and certainly must wonder why I'm asking.
It was worse when I posted a limited discount offer to a single list and
found it had been forwarded by an overzealous bargain-hunter to many
others.)

Other times I hope for forwardings -- say, of book announcements or calls
for papers -- and I try to put "Feel free to forward" on the top of the
posts I want to be spread around, so that other people reading them will
know I approved.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows
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Status: RO

The Tudors TV show is yet another example of something that makes me wonder, 
"Am I the
only one?" 19 times out of 20, it doesn't matter how good or how interesting 
the costumes
are in a production; I just can't stand to watch it. I haven't seen more 
than about 30
seconds of any of the famous costume flicks, like The Lion in Winter, 
because they just
bore the socks off of me. I just cannot block out the contents of a movie 
well enough to
watch it for the costumes.

I seem to only be able to watch costume flicks NOT set in the periods I find 
interesting,
like the adaptations of Oscar Wilde plays, or some of the better Jane Austen 
movies. (I'd
walk a marathon for a good Northanger Abbey movie--why don't they make one, 
already!) If
I do find a movie I actually enjoy that's set closer to the eras I find 
interesting, it's
almost never one known for its accuracy--for example, I actually loved A 
Knight's Tale.
Schlock, but such FUN schlock! (Though from what I hear, they at least put 
some decent
effort into researching how jousting really worked, not that I know anything 
about that.)
And yet, of course, so hideously costumed.

The Tudors is a great TV example of my conundrum; it's set so very close to 
my time of
interest, with characters whose portraits I have spent years studying, but I 
don't even
enjoy seeing commercials for it, much less feel the least interest in 
watching the actual
show. Whereas Robin Hood, which has to be the most hideously costumed piece 
of fluff I've
watched in quite some time, is a show I can actually stand to watch, studded 
black
leather duster and all. (At least until the overt politics finally get 
grating enough. It
doesn't matter if I agree or disagree; quit beating me over the head with 
it, already!)

Am I the only one?! I'd love to be able to settle down and listen to a nice 
costume flick
whilst handsewing, really I would. Sigh.

-E House
(keeps forgetting which email address to use with this list, argh!) 


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows
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Status: RO

Simplest solution: you are already doing it. Ignore what you do not like, 
much like when you were a child and did not want to eat that ... stuff ... 
mom and dad kept telling you to eat but your mouth screamed for soap to get 
rid of the taste.

If you personally find something so revolting why even talk about it?

If you absolutely must torture yourself then turn the volume off. That is 
what I do with probably the most racist good ol boy commercial there is on 
Texas TV these days. Thank god it is after 8pm that they show it. I hit mute 
and all is well. :)

Mute, it is your friend .. so is the delete button ... :D

Chiara


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <swissgirl@swissinfo.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 5:33 PM
Subject: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows


> The Tudors TV show is yet another example of something that makes me 
> wonder, "Am I the
> only one?" 19 times out of 20, it doesn't matter how good or how 
> interesting the costumes
> are in a production; I just can't stand to watch it. I haven't seen more 
> than about 30
> seconds of any of the famous costume flicks, like The Lion in Winter, 
> because they just
> bore the socks off of me. I just cannot block out the contents of a movie 
> well enough to
> watch it for the costumes.
>
> I seem to only be able to watch costume flicks NOT set in the periods I 
> find interesting,
> like the adaptations of Oscar Wilde plays, or some of the better Jane 
> Austen movies. (I'd
> walk a marathon for a good Northanger Abbey movie--why don't they make 
> one, already!) If
> I do find a movie I actually enjoy that's set closer to the eras I find 
> interesting, it's
> almost never one known for its accuracy--for example, I actually loved A 
> Knight's Tale.
> Schlock, but such FUN schlock! (Though from what I hear, they at least put 
> some decent
> effort into researching how jousting really worked, not that I know 
> anything about that.)
> And yet, of course, so hideously costumed.
>
> The Tudors is a great TV example of my conundrum; it's set so very close 
> to my time of
> interest, with characters whose portraits I have spent years studying, but 
> I don't even
> enjoy seeing commercials for it, much less feel the least interest in 
> watching the actual
> show. Whereas Robin Hood, which has to be the most hideously costumed 
> piece of fluff I've
> watched in quite some time, is a show I can actually stand to watch, 
> studded black
> leather duster and all. (At least until the overt politics finally get 
> grating enough. It
> doesn't matter if I agree or disagree; quit beating me over the head with 
> it, already!)
>
> Am I the only one?! I'd love to be able to settle down and listen to a 
> nice costume flick
> whilst handsewing, really I would. Sigh.
>
> -E House
> (keeps forgetting which email address to use with this list, argh!)
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re Tudors on Style - was Re: Tudors on Showtime
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Status: RO

Speaking of pictures... Ady, if you see this, are you the one  
responsible for the "Mistress Hemyngton" and "Master Carter" (I  assume 
that's him on his knee) picture?

I did a double-take when I saw that, not expecting to see anything  from 
the Company (then Guild) of St. George / Hengrave Hall folks.   Not to 
mention it's one of the best of the Dory Gean's "black  outfit" pictures 
I've seen - I forgot about the broach she was  wearing with it until I 
saw that.

Hey, it was *almost* worth the drivel part of the show to see some  of 
the re-enactor pictures... and *some* of the rest was rather  amusing as 
well.

(the actual *show* I liked in general... even if aspects of it bug  the 
heck out of me... as a "fiction based on fact, don't take it  too 
seriously" show... but the Style thing was "oh so Style")


-Elisabeth (yes, I'm still around, just muttering quietly to myself  
about lack of time to play with fiber and needles of all sorts  beyond 
quick pick-up/put-down preemie caps I've been doing in free  minutes at 
kids' stuff)

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Subject: [h-cost] regarding hiding things about their person Lady spies
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Status: RO


This is an interesting thread, to which I HAVE to add my 
comments, useless as they are.

In the late 1930's a certain forward 14 year old tempted 
my Dad at the tender age of 8 or so, with Cigarettes 
hidden in a pocket in the hem, or higher, of her 
petticoat.   now I can't imagine that this young lady 
invented a new thing, and can certainly imagine someone 
sewing a Pocket for documents into a petticoat at any age 
in the past.  If I didn't hide them in my corset as was 
suggested earlier, I would definitely have had them sewn 
into my petticoat.

Kitty in Somerset, PA
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2007 18:28:46 -0700
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Status: RO

I'm one of those who can watch, even if there are glaring inaccuracies. =
I've
been active in live theatre for many years, and so often, because of =
budget
constraints, or directorial vision,(I recall especially one show, set
specifically in 1904, where the director wanted the women dressed in =
1830's
ball gowns! Ouch!) historical shows aren't close to what really would =
have
been worn. I just try to concentrate on the acting/script. If the story =
and
acting are good, I can forgive a lot.
And of course, the worst offenders make it to Bad Movie Night. :-)
Sharon
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 3:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows


The Tudors TV show is yet another example of something that makes me =
wonder,

"Am I the
only one?" 19 times out of 20, it doesn't matter how good or how =
interesting

the costumes
are in a production; I just can't stand to watch it. I haven't seen more =

than about 30
seconds of any of the famous costume flicks, like The Lion in Winter,=20
because they just
bore the socks off of me. I just cannot block out the contents of a =
movie=20
well enough to
watch it for the costumes.

I seem to only be able to watch costume flicks NOT set in the periods I =
find

interesting,
like the adaptations of Oscar Wilde plays, or some of the better Jane =
Austen

movies. (I'd
walk a marathon for a good Northanger Abbey movie--why don't they make =
one,=20
already!) If
I do find a movie I actually enjoy that's set closer to the eras I find=20
interesting, it's
almost never one known for its accuracy--for example, I actually loved A =

Knight's Tale.
Schlock, but such FUN schlock! (Though from what I hear, they at least =
put=20
some decent
effort into researching how jousting really worked, not that I know =
anything

about that.)
And yet, of course, so hideously costumed.

The Tudors is a great TV example of my conundrum; it's set so very close =
to=20
my time of
interest, with characters whose portraits I have spent years studying, =
but I

don't even
enjoy seeing commercials for it, much less feel the least interest in=20
watching the actual
show. Whereas Robin Hood, which has to be the most hideously costumed =
piece=20
of fluff I've
watched in quite some time, is a show I can actually stand to watch, =
studded

black
leather duster and all. (At least until the overt politics finally get=20
grating enough. It
doesn't matter if I agree or disagree; quit beating me over the head =
with=20
it, already!)

Am I the only one?! I'd love to be able to settle down and listen to a =
nice=20
costume flick
whilst handsewing, really I would. Sigh.

-E House
(keeps forgetting which email address to use with this list, argh!)=20


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] [Fwd: [costumers_notes] Restoring old fabric]
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Status: RO

Having not seen the bra or girdle. If the beadwork is intact and only the
areas not beaded are falling apart, then you could try to remove the outer
layer, cut out the bad spots and applique it to a new foundation BUT if the
fabric is shot underneath the beadwork as well, then I would recommend that
the bra and girdle be retired. Fray checking the back of the beading "might"
help if appliqueing but if it is that old then it really should be retired
and brought out once in a while as an example for new dancers.

De


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	was [costumers_notes] Restoring     old fabric 
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 20/04/2007 04:00:34 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Gosh, I  do this on a regular basis if I have permission of the person who
wrote the  note...maybe I am missing the point; who is supposed to be the
offended  person?  The recipients or the person who wrote the original  note?

Confused in AZ,
Sg


It shouldn't be a huge problem.
 
Once you put something onto any kind of web list or forum it's in the  public 
domain.
 
If you don't want it forwarding, you should either say so, or deal with  
whatever it is privately, and off list / forum.
 
Forwarding or making public something that was meant to be private is  
something else completely, as I keep telling people on a LH forum I  moderate.
 
But you never know who's about lurking anyway, so if somebody's that  
bothered about something being passed on, they should think twice about posting  
(gave somebody talking about me (not nastily) a shock the other day by  de-lurking 
on yet another forum :o)  )



   
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Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2007 22:32:41 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forwarding posts, was [costumers_notes] Restoring    
	old fabric 
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Status: RO


On Thu, 19 Apr 2007 Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:

> Once you put something onto any kind of web list or forum it's in the
> public domain.

Um, not exactly. I hate to bring up the c-word here, but the author still
retains rights over his or her postings. The post may be publicly viewable
or accessible, but it is not public domain. (I think it was obvious what
you meant here, but I get nervous when I see phrases like that misused, as
they can be taken at face value by others.) This is the same point more
often raised about things like photos -- just because they're on the 'net
doesn't mean they're public property and can be republished or otherwise
used by anyone at will.

Of course you're right that it's simply common sense not to commit to
electrons anything you wouldn't want your best friend, your worst enemy,
your mother, or your boss to read. But regardless of whether (technically)
"anyone" might be lurking and could see a post, it's reasonable to expect
that you're dealing with a certain audience, if loosely defined, when you
post to a list. And regardless of whether it's technically possible for
anyone to see your posts assuming they knew where to look, it's simple bad
netiquette for a person to reproduce your words (and your e-mail address)
elsewhere without your permission.

So it comes down to "play nice." Ask permission. It's the courteous thing
to do.

--Robin


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] The Tudors on the BBC
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Status: RO


Taken from the Daily Mail this morning:-

"The show has been a hit in the U.S. and the BBC has just snapped up 
the UK broadcast rights. I'm told "The Tudors" is done in the style 
of The Sopranos mixed with Desperate Housewives. Obviously, 
historical accuracy is being stretched somewhat because Ms. Dormer 
(Anne Boleyn) rejoins Rhys Meyers and others for the second series.

Maybe the American screenwriters know more about our country's 
history than we do, and Anne gets to keep her head!!"

Suzi

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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors on the BBC
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2007 09:30:06 -0500
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Status: RO

That is a HUGE stretch of a description for the show ... but I imagine that 
is all part of the marketing machine trying to attract viewers overseas if 
they like those kinds of shows. But trust me, they do not have those 
similarities. Desperate Housewives has actual friendships and Sopranos have 
more that two murders. ;)

Chiara

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 4:03 AM
Subject: [h-cost] The Tudors on the BBC


>
> Taken from the Daily Mail this morning:-
>
> "The show has been a hit in the U.S. and the BBC has just snapped up the 
> UK broadcast rights. I'm told "The Tudors" is done in the style of The 
> Sopranos mixed with Desperate Housewives. Obviously, historical accuracy 
> is being stretched somewhat because Ms. Dormer (Anne Boleyn) rejoins Rhys 
> Meyers and others for the second series.
>
> Maybe the American screenwriters know more about our country's history 
> than we do, and Anne gets to keep her head!!"
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors on the BBC
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/20/2007 5:04:52 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Maybe  the American screenwriters know more about our country's 
history than we  do, and Anne gets to keep her head!!"




*****************
 
 
She just carries it around on a plate....
 
It's like a soap opera...everyone is beautiful and they're all just worried  
about their "relationships". Who's governing the  country?



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2007 20:30:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jodi Nelson <faerieglenstudios@yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

Could the front of the bra/girdle with the beading be covered with silk organza and it tacked in several places to hold? I saw that done to reinforce areas falling apart on a quilt. The silk is sheer and lets the work be seen and supports the frayng bits.

Jodi

       
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
 Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows
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Status: RO

Don't get me wrong, I'm not in the least trying to criticize people who do 
enjoy watching that kind of thing--I'm actually wishing that I COULD enjoy 
it, like everyone else seems to!  I want in on the fun!

But  I'm the sort of person who has never seen a single soap opera episode 
and could never, ever watch the movie Beaches unless tied to a chair with my 
eyelids propped open.  I am a guy with boobs, and not one of those sensitive 
90s guys, either.  I am doomed to only being able to enjoy a costume flick 
if it also contains pirates, bear-worshipping neanderthals, or garderobe 
humor.  Ok, I'll settle for just plain humor of any sort.

Mmm, Bad Movie Night.  Maybe I could watch Dangerous Beauty or Somewhere in 
Time if there were little robot silhouettes at the bottom of the screen...

-Elmer House
(I'm sure they're wonderful movies!  Really!  I believe you!  I'm going to 
go watch Monty Python now! Or possibly South Park!) 


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Status: RO

=20
Just for fun, I'm planning to dress four 16" vinyl dolls(Wilde
Imaginations Ellowyne Wilde doll)in historical or at least historical
cut/modern fabrics in RenFaire-inspired dress. Just one, I'm planning to
dress, probably for a less flamboyant era, so I'm considering doing UK
Civil War/Commonwealth.

Since I'm on the "west" side of the pond, I don't see at RenFaires,
plays, TV, movies, much in the way of costumes during the English Civil
War and Commonwealth.  I do have a few books on mid 17th century
costuming, most noteably, Riberio's "Fashion and Fiction" and
Hunnisett's "Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800. I did find
the Order of the Sealed Knot's website, which I gather is probably as
big in the UK for reinactors as both the Revolutionary War and "our"
Civil War is here in the U.S.=20

Fabric is not a problem, but sources are.  Right now, I'm thinking of
doing something along the lines of using Hunnisett's pattern for the
"Commonwealth bodice" for starters and adapting Hollar's illustration
for "Winter"=20

Any other suggestions?

Thank you

Cindy Abel

=20
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Status: RO

=20

 Turn down the volume and enjoy the visuals. What I find really fun is
to critique the costumes and scenery--you can always date the movie how
the lead actors are costumed, styled and made up. Even available colors
at the time of the making of a film can give the date away. Also doing
scene selection, skipping around which one can do with DVDs, is a good
way to get around the talk.

Cynthia Abel=20
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Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2007 10:00:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors on the BBC
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

No, the first series only goes up to the Great
Divorce.   My favorite irony, though, is that Dormer
is the name of one of the stars, and Jane Dormer was
one of Queen Mary's (Katherine of Aragon's daughter)
maids of honour.

No point in turning off the volume. The clothes are so
bloody awful, the story (such as it is) is the only
reason to watch it. I'm trying to think of it as being
set on another planet, since it bears only a
superficial resemblence to anything I know about the
court of Henry VIII.

And at least it isn't that goddawful Robin Hood.

MaggiRos


--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> 

> Maybe the American screenwriters know more about our
> country's 
> history than we do, and Anne gets to keep her
> head!!"
> 
> Suzi
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Order of the Sealed Knot
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Status: RO

Cindy, 
What exactly are you looking for? I've been an English Cvil War reenactor for some 20 years and have lsts of resources. I'm also on "this" side of the pond.
 
Kathleen Norvell
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Fri, 20 Apr 2007 12:03 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Order of the Sealed Knot


 
Just for fun, I'm planning to dress four 16" vinyl dolls(Wilde
Imaginations Ellowyne Wilde doll)in historical or at least historical
cut/modern fabrics in RenFaire-inspired dress. Just one, I'm planning to
dress, probably for a less flamboyant era, so I'm considering doing UK
Civil War/Commonwealth.

Since I'm on the "west" side of the pond, I don't see at RenFaires,
plays, TV, movies, much in the way of costumes during the English Civil
War and Commonwealth.  I do have a few books on mid 17th century
costuming, most noteably, Riberio's "Fashion and Fiction" and
Hunnisett's "Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800. I did find
the Order of the Sealed Knot's website, which I gather is probably as
big in the UK for reinactors as both the Revolutionary War and "our"
Civil War is here in the U.S. 

Fabric is not a problem, but sources are.  Right now, I'm thinking of
doing something along the lines of using Hunnisett's pattern for the
"Commonwealth bodice" for starters and adapting Hollar's illustration
for "Winter" 

Any other suggestions?

Thank you

Cindy Abel

 
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Antique treadle sewing machine cabinets
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Status: RO

I am thinking of getting a second sewing machine table, to put a modern 
machine on.  I really love the antique treadle tables with an iron base, 
and, the great part, a big hinged fold-out leaf on the left side on 
which you can support long skirts while sewing them. They are really 
attractive and useful pieces of furniture.  OK, the drawers aren't very 
big; but I don't really expect sewing machine table drawers to do much 
more than hold a few things like bobbins and scissors.  I have other 
furniture for real storage.

Anyway, I already have a lovely oak sewing table, which is from my old 
childhood antique treadle machine that my parents sent to me when we 
moved into this house. I took the machine itself out, gave it away to 
someone, had the hole filled up with a nice piece of antique oak, and 
put my Viking on top.

Now I want a second one. But, since I didn't even buy the first one in 
the San Francisco area, I'm not sure where to buy another one. What with 
the cast iron base, they're not the lightest items to ship, so I'd 
rather buy one locally if I can.

What I'm working around to asking is, does anyone know where to buy such 
a table/cabinet in the San Francisco Bay Area?  I would rather have one 
that I did not have to take the machine out of and then find someone who 
wants the machine, but I will do that if necessary.

Thanks for any info.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com




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Status: RO

Look around at garage sales and at sewing machine repair stores. You'll pay 
more at the store, but you may be able to get them to keep the machine lower 
the price a bit.

 I bought my 1904 Singer at a garage sale for $25 years ago; the shop had 
the same machine and cabinet for around $100.

With regards,
kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 4:55 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Antique treadle sewing machine cabinets


>I am thinking of getting a second sewing machine table, to put a modern 
>machine on.  I really love the antique treadle tables with an iron base, 
>and, the great part, a big hinged fold-out leaf on the left side on which 
>you can support long skirts while sewing them. They are really attractive 
>and useful pieces of furniture.  OK, the drawers aren't very big; but I 
>don't really expect sewing machine table drawers to do much more than hold 
>a few things like bobbins and scissors.  I have other furniture for real 
>storage.
>
> Anyway, I already have a lovely oak sewing table, which is from my old 
> childhood antique treadle machine that my parents sent to me when we moved 
> into this house. I took the machine itself out, gave it away to someone, 
> had the hole filled up with a nice piece of antique oak, and put my Viking 
> on top.
>
> Now I want a second one. But, since I didn't even buy the first one in the 
> San Francisco area, I'm not sure where to buy another one. What with the 
> cast iron base, they're not the lightest items to ship, so I'd rather buy 
> one locally if I can.
>
> What I'm working around to asking is, does anyone know where to buy such a 
> table/cabinet in the San Francisco Bay Area?  I would rather have one that 
> I did not have to take the machine out of and then find someone who wants 
> the machine, but I will do that if necessary.
>
> Thanks for any info.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<00d701c7838f$e8344490$0202a8c0@Duncan>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Antique treadle sewing machine cabinets
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2007 17:45:57 -0400
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Status: RO

I have 4 sewing machines and an extra table.  My table used to have a 
machine.  A repairman was repairing my machine and died.  The contents of 
his store took years in probate.  I never got my machine back.  This broke 
my heart because my Dad bought the machine for my 8th birthday.  The table 
is the only thing I have that my Dad gave me.

Last year, I bought a perfectly restored 1887 Standard machine in its 
original cabinet.  The original attachments came with it.  The cost was $175 
after negotiating for an hour.  I got the treadle machine at an antique 
show.

Another machine from the 1920s, I purchased at a garage sale for $20.  It is 
more for decoration in my office.  I have never plugged it in to see if it 
works.

My third machine is a Kenmore machine from the 1970s.  I bought it from a 
vacuum cleaner repair shop not long after I got married in 1978.  I replaced 
this machine with a new fancy machine last year.  Sadly, I haven't had much 
time to play with my new machine and the treadle.

You might want to check if your local vacuum repair shops have a table.  In 
my area they are the ones who repair sewing machines.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Antique treadle sewing machine cabinets
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Status: RO

I see them on Craig's list a lot.  Also, you might want to check your =
local "recycle" yahoo group.  They show up there periodically.

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Lavolta Press<mailto:fran@lavoltapress.com>=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 1:55 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Antique treadle sewing machine cabinets


  I 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows
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Status: RO

At 01:53 AM 4/20/2007, you wrote:
>  Maybe I could watch Dangerous Beauty or Somewhere in Time if there 
> were little robot silhouettes at the bottom of the screen...>>


Never seen Dangerous Beauty, but you know, Somewhere in Time DOES 
have Superman in it!

After Monty Python can we watch SpongeBob? And then run around the 
house singing the theme song really really loud?

Dianne


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors on the BBC
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Status: RO

At 01:00 PM 4/20/2007, you wrote:
>And at least it isn't that goddawful Robin Hood.
>
>MaggiRos


heee. I LIKE Robin Hood. (When I remember to watch it, that is.)

For me, Robin Hood has always been at least 90% fantasy anyway, so I 
don't care about the costumes. But The Tudors is supposed to depict 
real people, that we KNOW really did exist, and we have pictures of 
how they dressed. That, for me, sums up the problem with The Tudors 
in a nutshell. But then, I don't read romance novels, either.

And no, I haven't watched it. I figger I'd throw things at the TV, 
and I can't afford a new TV.  :-)

Dianne 

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From: AlbertCat@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2007 21:22:36 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors on the BBC
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/20/2007 6:46:06 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
goofy4@comcast.net writes:

Robin  Hood has always been at least 90% fantasy anyway


***************
 
Yeah, but it is HISTORICAL fantasy in that the events that are the catalyst  
for the whole thing concern real people [Richard the Lionhearted and King 
John]  and events [the crusades] so there's no excuse for nutty costuming. It's 
like  saying "Gone With the Wind" should just ignore hoop skirts. [Indeed, for 
the  time that film was made, the costumes are very accurate]. Robin Hood  is 
really only like 65.02% fantasy. I mean, is one going to have it take  place in 
the period or not?



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2007 18:13:01 -0700
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Status: RO

We recently watched both "Tarzan" and "Bolero", the Bo Derek movies. My
husband doesn't think we'll be able to top these for a LONG time.=20
:-)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 10:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows


Don't get me wrong, I'm not in the least trying to criticize people who =
do=20
enjoy watching that kind of thing--I'm actually wishing that I COULD =
enjoy=20
it, like everyone else seems to!  I want in on the fun!

But  I'm the sort of person who has never seen a single soap opera =
episode=20
and could never, ever watch the movie Beaches unless tied to a chair =
with my

eyelids propped open.  I am a guy with boobs, and not one of those =
sensitive

90s guys, either.  I am doomed to only being able to enjoy a costume =
flick=20
if it also contains pirates, bear-worshipping neanderthals, or garderobe =

humor.  Ok, I'll settle for just plain humor of any sort.

Mmm, Bad Movie Night.  Maybe I could watch Dangerous Beauty or Somewhere =
in=20
Time if there were little robot silhouettes at the bottom of the =
screen...

-Elmer House
(I'm sure they're wonderful movies!  Really!  I believe you!  I'm going =
to=20
go watch Monty Python now! Or possibly South Park!)=20


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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors on the BBC
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--- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> It's like a soap opera...everyone is beautiful and
> they're all just worried  
> about their "relationships". Who's governing the 
> country?


Wolsey, as he did in history. But that's just a guess,
as I haven't had time to watch my DVDs yet, and have
only seen the first episode. I just got a new computer
(a Mac, woot!), and have been transferring various
items over this past week.

Kimiko



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From: Megan <megan@benchite.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Antique treadle sewing machine cabinets
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2007 09:13:49 -0400
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Status: RO

Why not get a treadle and use it as a treadle?  Over on treadleon at  
quiltropolis we all actually use the antique machines.  Best straight  
stitch ever.  My preferred method of sewing, actually.  But, if you  
want just the table, I'm sure you can find one locally on ebay or  
craigslist or freecycle- I see them advertised alot.  You should be  
able to pick up a decent one for less than $100, perhaps even for  
free as sometimes people just want them out of the house and unless  
one of us treadle-loving people is around, they are often considered  
junk.  Whatever you decide, I'm sure it won't take long for you to  
find one.  It took me a year to find my first one, now they just show  
up without me having to look at all.  I have severe overstock but  
live on the wrong side of the country from you.
-Megan

On Apr 20, 2007, at 9:15 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> I assume you have already checked/posted on Craig's List?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Lavolta Press
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 1:56 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Antique treadle sewing machine cabinets
>
>
> I am thinking of getting a second sewing machine table, to put a  
> modern
> machine on.  I really love the antique treadle tables with an iron  
> base,
> and, the great part, a big hinged fold-out leaf on the left side on
> which you can support long skirts while sewing them. They are really
> attractive and useful pieces of furniture.  OK, the drawers aren't  
> very
> big; but I don't really expect sewing machine table drawers to do much
> more than hold a few things like bobbins and scissors.  I have other
> furniture for real storage.
>
> Anyway, I already have a lovely oak sewing table, which is from my old
> childhood antique treadle machine that my parents sent to me when we
> moved into this house. I took the machine itself out, gave it away to
> someone, had the hole filled up with a nice piece of antique oak, and
> put my Viking on top.
>
> Now I want a second one. But, since I didn't even buy the first one in
> the San Francisco area, I'm not sure where to buy another one. What  
> with
> the cast iron base, they're not the lightest items to ship, so I'd
> rather buy one locally if I can.
>
> What I'm working around to asking is, does anyone know where to buy  
> such
> a table/cabinet in the San Francisco Bay Area?  I would rather have  
> one
> that I did not have to take the machine out of and then find  
> someone who
> wants the machine, but I will do that if necessary.
>
> Thanks for any info.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2007 10:05:30 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/21/2007 9:02:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

"Tarzan"  and "Bolero", the Bo Derek 


***********
 
 
Tarzan! HAHAHAHAHAHA! What a riotous mess! It's so bad it's hysterical. I  
love Richard Harris' [an actor I love to hate] advice to his daughter Bo when  
she's about to be raped by a big black buck: "Leave your body! Let your mind  
leave your body!"
 
Thanks Daddy!
 
The rest is just excuses for Bo to get wet in her frilly knickers. Too  funny.
 
Remember "Greystoke: The Legend of Tarzan, Lord of the Apes"? Also not very  
good, but fantastic costumes. Now that's 100% fantasy and still works well [as 
 the script will allow] with correct period  stuff!



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: sewing machine cabinet...
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At 7:09 AM -0600 4/21/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>  >I am thinking of getting a second sewing machine table, to put a modern
>>machine on.  I really love the antique treadle tables with an iron base,
>>and, the great part, a big hinged fold-out leaf on the left side on which
>>you can support long skirts while sewing them. They are really attractive
>>and useful pieces of furniture.  OK, the drawers aren't very big; but I
>>don't really expect sewing machine table drawers to do much more than hold
>>a few things like bobbins and scissors.  I have other furniture for real
>  >storage.

And you can pop a modern longer foot print machine in if you take the 
metal spring lift thingie off of the right side of the opening---then 
the machine sits level...of course my loverly RadioMatic  ZigZag 
(it's a Japan Clone of the shorter body) just popped in, no mods. 
needed <G> AND it could also be a treadle--love to shock my 'latest 
bestest computer controlled' machine friends when they come over. And 
my Amish friends want me to score them another <G>
There are a fair number of the treadle bases out on the West Coast. 
Check out Junke Shoppes and Craigslist and the FreeCycle folks.
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Antique treadle sewing machine cabinets
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2007 18:15:20 -0700
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Status: RO

I assume you have already checked/posted on Craig's List?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 1:56 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Antique treadle sewing machine cabinets


I am thinking of getting a second sewing machine table, to put a modern 
machine on.  I really love the antique treadle tables with an iron base, 
and, the great part, a big hinged fold-out leaf on the left side on 
which you can support long skirts while sewing them. They are really 
attractive and useful pieces of furniture.  OK, the drawers aren't very 
big; but I don't really expect sewing machine table drawers to do much 
more than hold a few things like bobbins and scissors.  I have other 
furniture for real storage.

Anyway, I already have a lovely oak sewing table, which is from my old 
childhood antique treadle machine that my parents sent to me when we 
moved into this house. I took the machine itself out, gave it away to 
someone, had the hole filled up with a nice piece of antique oak, and 
put my Viking on top.

Now I want a second one. But, since I didn't even buy the first one in 
the San Francisco area, I'm not sure where to buy another one. What with 
the cast iron base, they're not the lightest items to ship, so I'd 
rather buy one locally if I can.

What I'm working around to asking is, does anyone know where to buy such 
a table/cabinet in the San Francisco Bay Area?  I would rather have one 
that I did not have to take the machine out of and then find someone who 
wants the machine, but I will do that if necessary.

Thanks for any info.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com




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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Antique treadle sewing machine cabinets
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Status: RO

Fran, you might also want to check the Vintage Flea Market on Alameda Point
- first Sunday of every month. I have seen them there, with and without
machines. But like all flea markets, it's hit or miss when one will be
there. Look around and ask people. Most of the folks there are business
people and they might be willing to look for a table for you, for a charge.

My husband says they have expanded. The second Sunday of every month they
will be in San Mateo, but he's not sure where. Check the website, which
neither of us can remember. Google Point Alameda Flea market or something
like that.

LynnD


On 4/20/07, Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
>
> I see them on Craig's list a lot.  Also, you might want to check your
> local "recycle" yahoo group.  They show up there periodically.
>
> Sg
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lavolta Press<mailto:fran@lavoltapress.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 1:55 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Antique treadle sewing machine cabinets
>
>
> I
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Status: RO

Yes. None for sale right now in San Francisco, though I posted a want ad 
and someone has replied.

Fran

Sharon Collier wrote:
> I assume you have already checked/posted on Craig's List?
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Status: RO



Megan wrote:

> Why not get a treadle and use it as a treadle?  Over on treadleon at  
> quiltropolis we all actually use the antique machines.  Best straight  
> stitch ever. 

I grew up/learned to sew with a treadle machine.  I used to have an 
early Singer Electric and those have great straight stitches too. Since 
the zig-zag was incorporated into home machines, their straight stitches 
have never been the same. There's a limit to how many sewing machines I 
have room for though.


  My preferred method of sewing, actually.  But, if you
> want just the table, I'm sure you can find one locally on ebay or  
> craigslist or freecycle- I see them advertised alot.  You should be  
> able to pick up a decent one for less than $100, perhaps even for  free 
> as sometimes people just want them out of the house and unless  one of 
> us treadle-loving people is around, they are often considered  junk.  

Thanks.


Fran
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows
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Robot silhouettes!  A fellow Mistie!  Best show EVER!
   
  Obligatory costume comment (although not period) -- great skit from Teenagers from Outer Space, w/ all the duct tape costumes -- and quite prescient, given the proliferation of "Make Your Prom Dress from Duct Tape" kinds of contests.
   
  Okay, back to lurking.
   
  KP
  

Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
  We recently watched both "Tarzan" and "Bolero", the Bo Derek movies. My
husband doesn't think we'll be able to top these for a LONG time. 
:-)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 10:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows


Don't get me wrong, I'm not in the least trying to criticize people who do 
enjoy watching that kind of thing--I'm actually wishing that I COULD enjoy 
it, like everyone else seems to! I want in on the fun!

But I'm the sort of person who has never seen a single soap opera episode 
and could never, ever watch the movie Beaches unless tied to a chair with my

eyelids propped open. I am a guy with boobs, and not one of those sensitive

90s guys, either. I am doomed to only being able to enjoy a costume flick 
if it also contains pirates, bear-worshipping neanderthals, or garderobe 
humor. Ok, I'll settle for just plain humor of any sort.

Mmm, Bad Movie Night. Maybe I could watch Dangerous Beauty or Somewhere in 
Time if there were little robot silhouettes at the bottom of the screen...

-Elmer House
(I'm sure they're wonderful movies! Really! I believe you! I'm going to 
go watch Monty Python now! Or possibly South Park!) 


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There has been a rumour in the costume world here in England that 
Jenny Tiramani, formerly head of Costume at the Globe Theatre, had 
taken over the writing of Janet's books. Well, this evening, I asked 
her this very question. I was very clearly told that she has not 
"Taken over" the writing, but was merely helping Santina Levy, 
Janet's literary executor. I also had the privilege of meeting Tina 
at the same event, and together she and Jenny told me that the first 
of the books, on ruffs, shirts, smocks, is being worked on now.  No 
date was given for completion, and I did not ask, as I felt I had 
been given privileged information anyway.

Jenny asked me to make very clear to anyone interested that Santina 
Levy was still the principal editor/writer, and that Jenny was merely 
helping her. If I get any more news, I will certainly pass it on.

Suzi

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Order of the Sealed Knot
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Status: RO

At 12:03 PM 4/20/2007, you wrote:

>Just for fun, I'm planning to dress four 16" vinyl dolls(Wilde
>Imaginations Ellowyne Wilde doll)in historical or at least historical
>cut/modern fabrics in RenFaire-inspired dress. >>


What a pretty doll. Wouldn't the Basic Brunette make a lovely Anne Boleyn?

Dianne


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Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2007 15:32:36 -0700
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Monkey Fist & Turks Head Buttons
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Status: RO

Monkey fist & Turks cap are 2 common button knots.  See Ashley's Book
of Knots for more than you ever wanted to know. There's a whole
chapter on decorative knotwork.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Subject: [h-cost] Monkey Claw Buttons
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Independence Day Ball - It's a month early this year!
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Status: RO

Well, how 'bout that!  An 18th c event in California.  Wonders never cease,
--cin
CinBarnes@gmail.com

---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Dear Friends,
>
> The Independence Day Ball is a month early this year, so mail your
> check in now - don't wait!
>
> It helps us to plan, plus it saves you five bucks - everybody wins.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dana and Charlene Parker
>
> P.S: Your help in spreading the word is also much appreciated.
> Independence Day Ball
>
> Celebrate our nation's birthday in a unique way and help a good cause!
>
> Come experience the fun and finery of a colonial ball. Proceeds
> benefit Montpelier, home of James Madison.
>
> James Madison was the "Father of the Constitution," and also the
> author of the Bill of Rights. His home, Montpelier, was in private
> hands until recent years. The Montpelier Foundation is conducting a
> major restoration of the mansion to return it to the way it was when
> James and Dolley Madison lived there.
>
> Date: Saturday, June 9, 2007 =96 Yes JUNE =96 it's early
> this year!
> Time: 6:30 p.m. =96 11:30 p.m.
> Place: Norwalk Masonic Lodge
> 12345 Rosecrans Ave., Norwalk, CA
> Donation:$30 per person.
> Early bird discount: $5 off if received before
> May 10th.
>
> Colonial attire welcomed but not required. Instruction provided for
> all dances.
> Dinner will be potluck (Bring your own dishes and silverware or get
> stuck with paper plates and plastic forks!).
>
>
> For tickets or more information
> contact:
>
> Dana & Charlene Parker
> 5408 Vista Fortuna,
> Cypress, CA 90630
> (714) 761-0233
> E-mail: jazzlover01@juno.com
>
> Please include your e-mail address with your check. Thanks.
>
>
> Please make your tax-deductible check payable to Montpelier Foundation.
> Your early response will facilitate planning and is much appreciated.
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Subject: [h-cost] Experiment dyeing Swiss batiste
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Status: RO

I mentioned that Baltazor Fabrics sent me a 1/2-yard sample of this 
dotted Swiss batiste to try dyeing:

Special Dotted Swiss
100% Cotton Batiste
56" Wide
Embroidered Dots
Available in White Only For
Only $15.00/yard

http://www.baltazor.com/dottedswiss.html

I cut off a control sample, and threw the rest in with 5 yards of 
embroidered eyelet I bought from the ebay seller China-usa, whose fabric 
dyes very well BTW. I was dyeing the lot bronze. The batiste Swiss took 
the dye beautifully and stood up to roughly 2 hours of washer agitation 
(between prewashing, dyeing, and post-washing), plus machine drying. In 
bronze, it doesn't look like a little-girl fabric. $15/yard is a good 
price for dotted Swiss so, if you have a fancy for some dotted Swiss 
that is not white or pastel, I'd recommend this fabric.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendaslists@exemail.com.au>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<edcaf0220704211554y3ea5b00ch63ef1c3e4a89956c@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fwd: Independence Day Ball - It's a month early this
	year!
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2007 10:11:46 +1000
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Status: RO

Had to share this bit of info for all you USAdians.

The Norwalk Independence Day Ball is being held early this year... Fair
enough - events move around due to other influences.

BUT that puts the "Independence Day Ball" smack bang in the middle of the
weekend celebrating the Official Queen's Birthday of the United Kingdom and
the Commonwealth!

Maybe it's been taken over by Loyalists? ;-)


In Australia (but not in the UK.. . go figure) we celebrate this as a long
weekend (in some states it's the last long weekend before Christmas, so
no-one wants to let it go - it's also the official start of the Ski season).
Every year the Pike and Musket Society (1642 London trayned bandes
reenactment) celebrates by holding our Winter Camp - were we camp out for
3-4 days in the mountains 3.5 hours west of Sydney. It's not unusual to see
snow, and last year the overnight temperatures got down to -6C (we know this
because the olive oil froze, but not the red wine!). Definitely a weekend
when all our 1640s clothing comes in useful - this doesn't often happen in
Sydney.

Glenda.

-----Original Message-----

> Celebrate our nation's birthday in a unique way and help a good cause!
>
> Come experience the fun and finery of a colonial ball. Proceeds
> benefit Montpelier, home of James Madison.
>
> James Madison was the "Father of the Constitution," and also the
> author of the Bill of Rights. His home, Montpelier, was in private
> hands until recent years. The Montpelier Foundation is conducting a
> major restoration of the mansion to return it to the way it was when
> James and Dolley Madison lived there.
>
> Date: Saturday, June 9, 2007 - Yes JUNE - it's early
> this year!
> Time: 6:30 p.m. - 11:30 p.m.
> Place: Norwalk Masonic Lodge
> 12345 Rosecrans Ave., Norwalk, CA
> Donation:$30 per person.
> Early bird discount: $5 off if received before
> May 10th.
>
> Colonial attire welcomed but not required. Instruction provided for
> all dances.


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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2007 22:41:27 -0700
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Status: RO

And of course, you can't forget the "magical growing skirt". In one =
scene
it's a mini, then it's suddenly knee length, then ankle length!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 7:06 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Tudors & other costume shows


=20
In a message dated 4/21/2007 9:02:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, =20
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

"Tarzan"  and "Bolero", the Bo Derek=20


***********
=20
=20
Tarzan! HAHAHAHAHAHA! What a riotous mess! It's so bad it's hysterical. =
I =20
love Richard Harris' [an actor I love to hate] advice to his daughter Bo
when =20
she's about to be raped by a big black buck: "Leave your body! Let your =
mind

leave your body!"
=20
Thanks Daddy!
=20
The rest is just excuses for Bo to get wet in her frilly knickers. Too
funny.
=20
Remember "Greystoke: The Legend of Tarzan, Lord of the Apes"? Also not =
very

good, but fantastic costumes. Now that's 100% fantasy and still works =
well
[as=20
 the script will allow] with correct period  stuff!



************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/22/2007 9:07:37 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

And of  course, you can't forget the "magical growing skirt". In one scene
it's a  mini, then it's suddenly knee length, then ankle  length!



****************
 
Who wants to bet they filmed that sequence in reverse order. I can hear  John 
Derek now "Let's cut it off a little more. WARDROBE!!!!!" Those poor set  
people!



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-cost] Update on Janet Arnold book
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Status: RO

Thank you Suzi! Please keep us updated.

Beth

At 06:17 PM 4/22/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2007 22:28:47 +0100
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>
>There has been a rumour in the costume world here in England that
>Jenny Tiramani, formerly head of Costume at the Globe Theatre, had
>taken over the writing of Janet's books. Well, this evening, I asked
>her this very question. I was very clearly told that she has not
>"Taken over" the writing, but was merely helping Santina Levy,
>Janet's literary executor. I also had the privilege of meeting Tina
>at the same event, and together she and Jenny told me that the first
>of the books, on ruffs, shirts, smocks, is being worked on now.  No
>date was given for completion, and I did not ask, as I felt I had
>been given privileged information anyway.
>
>Jenny asked me to make very clear to anyone interested that Santina
>Levy was still the principal editor/writer, and that Jenny was merely
>helping her. If I get any more news, I will certainly pass it on.
>
>Suzi

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From: "Tori Ruhl" <Tori.Ruhl@awin.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
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Status: RO

Hello all!

Let me preface this by saying that I don't know that much about embroidery.=

I want to put gold couching on velvet. Should I make a frame big enough to =
accomodate the entire pattern piece?
I would think that a hoop would damage the velvet, so I'd rather not do =
that.=20

What if I'm embroidering an entire skirt? Do I need a frame big enough for =
that pattern piece as well?
Or....should it be embroidered on a different fabric and appliqued onto =
the garment?

I'm not as concerned with historically accurate techniques, yet, as I am =
with just getting from point A to point B with as few migraines as =
possible.


Thanks!
Victoria

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Order of the Sealed Knot/Ellowyne Wilde
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2007 09:10:34 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

Dianne:

Yes, that is exactly what I'm thinking of since I do have the basic
Brunette. The only problem I see is that she has a side part and I don't
want to have to reroot although a wig is possible. I have the basic
redhead and will order two more Ellowynes(I hope) from the Spring 2007
line. Ellowyne's friends, Rufus and Penelope, are also promised to be
released "soon", which probably means this fall or later.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Dianne & Greg Stucki
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 4:50 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Order of the Sealed Knot

At 12:03 PM 4/20/2007, you wrote:

>Just for fun, I'm planning to dress four 16" vinyl dolls(Wilde=20
>Imaginations Ellowyne Wilde doll)in historical or at least historical=20
>cut/modern fabrics in RenFaire-inspired dress. >>


What a pretty doll. Wouldn't the Basic Brunette make a lovely Anne
Boleyn?

Dianne


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
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Status: RO

Have you considered a "slate" frame? It basically sews the fabric into
tension, so you could move it from place to place on the skirt without
crushing the nap/pile. There is a "how to make one" in the latest TI
(Tournaments Illuminated) which I am currently attempting- our local
woodshop -Rocklers- offers thin slats of various thickness and content that
require minimal effort to use for this design; basically cut the parts to
size, glue, and drill the peg holes. Sweet! HTH Betsy 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Tori Ruhl
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 8:33 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery Question

Hello all!

Let me preface this by saying that I don't know that much about embroidery.
I want to put gold couching on velvet. Should I make a frame big enough to
accomodate the entire pattern piece?
I would think that a hoop would damage the velvet, so I'd rather not do
that. 

What if I'm embroidering an entire skirt? Do I need a frame big enough for
that pattern piece as well?
Or....should it be embroidered on a different fabric and appliqued onto the
garment?

I'm not as concerned with historically accurate techniques, yet, as I am
with just getting from point A to point B with as few migraines as possible.


Thanks!
Victoria

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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2007 13:27:08 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] was thread on spools in Eliz England?
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Status: RO

OK, here's the question: 
 
I work at a Renn Faire, and would like to be able to do some handsewing,
most likely linen shirts for my child. I don't want to have my plastic
spools of thread flashing about! How did Elizabethans work with thread? Was
it wound on spools (wooden, I assume)? Was it somehow put into hanks (like
modern-day floss)? How can I make my thread look "right"?
 
*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2007 11:03:24 -0400
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
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Status: RO

Quoting Tori Ruhl <Tori.Ruhl@awin.com>:

> Hello all!
>
> Let me preface this by saying that I don't know that much about embroidery=
.
> I want to put gold couching on velvet. Should I make a frame big  =20
> enough to accomodate the entire pattern piece?
> I would think that a hoop would damage the velvet, so I'd rather not do th=
at.

If you stitch for *short* periods of time and don't leave the fabric =20
in the hoop, you won't see much compression of the velvet.  My piece =20
is home, I'll try and remember tonight to check it and see.

And this piece (a pouch) actually has the hoop large enough so that =20
the pouch itself is completely within the hoop.  It would help if you =20
had a hoop large enough.  A scroll frame would work too, and it might =20
be easier to manipulate.

>
> What if I'm embroidering an entire skirt? Do I need a frame big  =20
> enough for that pattern piece as well?
> Or....should it be embroidered on a different fabric and appliqued  =20
> onto the garment?

yes.  :-)  Applique was indeed done in pre-1700 garments when the =20
final, fashion fabric was velvet.  I don't know about later stuff, but =20
I don't see why it wouldn't be!  Other folks will know the answer to =20
that one I'm sure.  What period are you doing?

>
> I'm not as concerned with historically accurate techniques, yet, as  =20
> I am with just getting from point A to point B with as few migraines =20
>  as possible.
>

If you haven't prewashed everything, applique might make it easier to =20
clean -- especially if you're doing metal thread.  You could just take =20
the applique off ...

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Apr 23 18:23:12 2007
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 23/04/2007 19:02:46 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Have you  considered a "slate" frame? It basically sews the fabric into
tension, so  you could move it from place to place on the skirt without
crushing the  nap/pile. There is a "how to make one" in the latest TI
(Tournaments  Illuminated) which I am currently attempting- our local
woodshop -Rocklers-  offers thin slats of various thickness and content that
require minimal  effort to use for this design; basically cut the parts to
size, glue, and  drill the peg holes. Sweet! HTH Betsy 


definitely, a slate frame is the way to go.
 
although historical correctness isn't really the point here, I often find  
that using the stretching (etc) methods that were known when techniques were  
developed makes it far easier.
 
slate frames are known from at least relatively early medieval times, in  
various forms, and they make it so much easier to do many types of embroidery -  
especially on large areas.  also, a slate frame is the best wayI know to  keep 
work taut over a long period of time - I tend to find the tension starts to  
go after a while with other frames.
 
only down side is that really to do it properly you have to have a frame  big 
enough to accommodate whatever you are stitching (though if not practicable,  
you can still do it with applique.



   
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http://www.bayrose.org/needlework/Slate_Frame.html

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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] was thread on spools in Eliz England?
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Status: RO


On Apr 23, 2007, at 11:27 AM, Rebecca Schmitt wrote:

> OK, here's the question:
>
> I work at a Renn Faire, and would like to be able to do some  
> handsewing,
> most likely linen shirts for my child. I don't want to have my plastic
> spools of thread flashing about! How did Elizabethans work with  
> thread? Was
> it wound on spools (wooden, I assume)? Was it somehow put into  
> hanks (like
> modern-day floss)? How can I make my thread look "right"?

The best 16th-century images I've been able to find seem to have  
thread/yarn either (1) wound into little balls, kept in a box, or (2)  
wound around something small, rectangular and flat (no indication of  
what it is, since the images are little details in the corners of  
paintings...)

I would guess that sewing thread might have been sold in hanks, but I  
really don't know. I am fairly sure that silk embroidery thread was,  
and flat "thread winders" have been suggested as a plausible way to  
wind off part of a hank of silk so you could cut lengths to work with.

You might find these articles helpful -- though I'll warn you, while  
you see a lot of the needlebooks shown here (on the "project" page in  
this issue) at Renaissance Faires, the documentation for them is not  
terribly good. They show up in re-drawings by Herbert Norris, who  
often (but not always) had good sources for what he showed, but never  
tells you where he found things :(
http://www.bayrose.org/wkneedle/filum/Filum_28_workbox.pdf
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________

a.k.a.
____________________________________________________________
O  Christian Ashley, gentlewoman to Lady Stafford
+  Chris Laning  <claning@igc.org>
     Guild of St. George, Northern California
     http://paternosters.blogspot.com  -  http://paternoster-row.org
____________________________________________________________


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From: Cozit / Liz <imcozit@verizon.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: embroidery on velvet
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Status: RO

First off, you *will* see *some* compression happening if you put a hoop 
on velvet, no matter what you do... second, if you use too small a slate 
or scroll frame, the same thing will happen.

Of course, I can also tell you from experience that attempting to stitch 
on a piece as large as a skirt piece on a frame is darned difficult.  In 
fact I've had enough difficulty getting to the center of my (rather 
largeish) seat cushion on my frame at faire that I've ended up making 
comments from time to time about how I suspect that's why there are more 
professional broiderers who are male than female... arms are just too 
short for somethings.

Now.. there's hope.  I managed to work on velvet a few years ago by 
using one of those plastic q-snap frames and using terry cloth (you can 
use another piece of velvet probably instead) to cushion where it is 
compressed to hold, and provide more 'space' for the nap.  Limiting time 
in the frame and lightly re-fluffing it when off helps as well.

You *will* have to stretch out the clips for the frame, and it's 
horribly non-period, so not real event-friendly, but it will work.

Creating embroidery slips and then attaching them to the skirt is period 
for *some* periods... more than direct embroidery for certain periods 
and decorative types, in fact.

I haven't got a picture of my embroidery frame, but what I created 
(mostly from "scrap" wood) fits somewhere square between pictures I've 
seen for medieval embroidery and mid-1600s work... both of which look 
*very* similar in pictures/woodcuts, so I'm taking it as reasonably 
period, and appropriate.

Ady B. might have a picture... but I can't remember if she's taken one 
of the frame at faire in the last two seasons.

-Liz
(Mistress Mabel Ascomb, embroideress... at MDRF)

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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] was thread on spools in Eliz England?
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2007 20:19:48 -0500
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Status: RO

Little balls, huh? I could probably do that! Or wound around a small
card...yeah....

Thanks!

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Chris Laning
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:45 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] was thread on spools in Eliz England?
> 
> 
> On Apr 23, 2007, at 11:27 AM, Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
> 
> > OK, here's the question:
> >
> > I work at a Renn Faire, and would like to be able to do some 
> > handsewing, most likely linen shirts for my child. I don't want to 
> > have my plastic spools of thread flashing about! How did 
> Elizabethans 
> > work with thread? Was it wound on spools (wooden, I assume)? Was it 
> > somehow put into hanks (like modern-day floss)? How can I make my 
> > thread look "right"?
> 
> The best 16th-century images I've been able to find seem to 
> have thread/yarn either (1) wound into little balls, kept in 
> a box, or (2) wound around something small, rectangular and 
> flat (no indication of what it is, since the images are 
> little details in the corners of
> paintings...)
> 
> I would guess that sewing thread might have been sold in 
> hanks, but I really don't know. I am fairly sure that silk 
> embroidery thread was, and flat "thread winders" have been 
> suggested as a plausible way to wind off part of a hank of 
> silk so you could cut lengths to work with.
> 
> You might find these articles helpful -- though I'll warn 
> you, while you see a lot of the needlebooks shown here (on 
> the "project" page in this issue) at Renaissance Faires, the 
> documentation for them is not terribly good. They show up in 
> re-drawings by Herbert Norris, who often (but not always) had 
> good sources for what he showed, but never tells you where he 
> found things :( 
> http://www.bayrose.org/wkneedle/filum/Filum_28_workbox.pdf
> ____________________________________________________________
> 
> O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
> +     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
> ____________________________________________________________
> 
> a.k.a.
> ____________________________________________________________
> O  Christian Ashley, gentlewoman to Lady Stafford
> +  Chris Laning  <claning@igc.org>
>      Guild of St. George, Northern California
>      http://paternosters.blogspot.com  -  
> http://paternoster-row.org 
> ____________________________________________________________
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 


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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] was thread on spools in Eliz England?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I have found flat winders a pain to use, so instead I
found some spools that are still modern shaped but
made out of wood, and wound the thread on those. I
also found some old wooden spools among my
grandmothers sewing stuff! You can sand off any logo
or printing on the ends and you're good to go. They're
easy to use (once you get passed the tedium of
rewinding thread on them) and don't draw attention to
themselves, which is really the point. 

Brava, by the way, to you for recognizing this as a
problem and wanting to do something about it. I've
seen too many white plastic spools at Faire and gotten
too many blank stares when I suggested that they
should at least be concealed when in use.

MaggiRos


--- Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote:

> Little balls, huh? I could probably do that! Or
> wound around a small
> card...yeah....
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: embroidery on velvet
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 01:16:03 -0500
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Status: RO

With a skirt, if you had the room and the funds, you could make an old
fashioned quilt frame. 2 1"x4"x8' and 2 1"x4"x2' or 3' These would make your
frame. tack some ticking material to the boards so that you can pin the
fabric for stretching and you will need 6-8 clamps, one for each corner and
2-4 to clamp the short boards to the saw horses. The long boards would be
the ones, once you stitch the end of the fabric to them, would roll the
material up, and as you finished a section, roll that under and unroll the
material to be embroidered. Selvage ends should be parallel to the short
boards. If your skirt has shaped pieces instead of rectangles I would
recommend that you mark the skirt shape of the fabric (basting stitches work
well for this) then embroider the piece before cutting it out.
Just a thought,
De

-----Original Message-----
First off, you *will* see *some* compression happening if you put a hoop
on velvet, no matter what you do... second, if you use too small a slate
or scroll frame, the same thing will happen.

Of course, I can also tell you from experience that attempting to stitch
on a piece as large as a skirt piece on a frame is darned difficult.  In
fact I've had enough difficulty getting to the center of my (rather
largeish) seat cushion on my frame at faire that I've ended up making
comments from time to time about how I suspect that's why there are more
professional broiderers who are male than female... arms are just too
short for somethings.

Now.. there's hope.  I managed to work on velvet a few years ago by
using one of those plastic q-snap frames and using terry cloth (you can
use another piece of velvet probably instead) to cushion where it is
compressed to hold, and provide more 'space' for the nap.  Limiting time
in the frame and lightly re-fluffing it when off helps as well.

You *will* have to stretch out the clips for the frame, and it's
horribly non-period, so not real event-friendly, but it will work.

Creating embroidery slips and then attaching them to the skirt is period
for *some* periods... more than direct embroidery for certain periods
and decorative types, in fact.

I haven't got a picture of my embroidery frame, but what I created
(mostly from "scrap" wood) fits somewhere square between pictures I've
seen for medieval embroidery and mid-1600s work... both of which look
*very* similar in pictures/woodcuts, so I'm taking it as reasonably
period, and appropriate.

Ady B. might have a picture... but I can't remember if she's taken one
of the frame at faire in the last two seasons.

-Liz
(Mistress Mabel Ascomb, embroideress... at MDRF)

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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 01:22:53 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] was thread on spools in Eliz England?
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Status: RO

Greetings,

In the wills and inventories I work with the only reference to any 
sort of holder or container for thread has been "4 bowttes of blacke 
thred", which I took to be bolt (from the 1543 will of the "porter of 
of the King's Wardrobe").  Otherwise they just specify colour or 
colour and amount of thread, and sometimes fiber if it is 
silk.  Yarns and wools they tend to get more descriptive 
about.  Thread is mentioned extremely rarely, aside from the above 
exception, I have only found it in Drapers or Tailor's wills and 
inventories.  Although, I'm sure it would also turn up in other 
similar trades such as silkwomen, I just haven't gathered any of 
their probate documents yet.

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 01:27 PM 4/23/2007, you wrote:
>OK, here's the question:
>
>I work at a Renn Faire, and would like to be able to do some handsewing,
>most likely linen shirts for my child. I don't want to have my plastic
>spools of thread flashing about! How did Elizabethans work with thread? Was
>it wound on spools (wooden, I assume)? Was it somehow put into hanks (like
>modern-day floss)? How can I make my thread look "right"?
>
>*******************************************************************
>Rebecca Schmitt
>aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
>Bristol Renaissance Faire
>
>My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
>*******************************************************************

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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

	If you're working with velvet and gold thread don=92t even consider
embroidering with a hoop or anything but a large scroll-type of =
embroidery
frame. Trust me on this, as I've done extensive historical embroideries =
in
real metal. Sorry guys, but the hoop or any other type is simply a
compromise of your materials and skills and the quality you will achieve =
as
a result.

	You can appliqu=E9, yes. It's a completely historical and acceptable
method of doing any type of embroidery.=20

	However, if you wish the embroidery to be done directly to the
fabric, then the fabric on the frame is the way to go. Mark out your =
fabric
with the garment pieces, transfer your embroidery patterns and then =
stretch
on the frame.

	For the type of frame to use you can view a reproduction frame on
our website. The URL is in the tagline.

	If you want further information, contact me.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Now available: =
Recipes
of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Embroidery Question 
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Status: RO

And if you appliqu=E9, it's easier to remove and reuse when the =
foundation
garment dies.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Five Rivers Chapmanry
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 3:16 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Embroidery Question=20


	If you're working with velvet and gold thread don=92t even consider
embroidering with a hoop or anything but a large scroll-type of =
embroidery
frame. Trust me on this, as I've done extensive historical embroideries =
in
real metal. Sorry guys, but the hoop or any other type is simply a
compromise of your materials and skills and the quality you will achieve =
as
a result.

	You can appliqu=E9, yes. It's a completely historical and acceptable
method of doing any type of embroidery.=20

	However, if you wish the embroidery to be done directly to the
fabric, then the fabric on the frame is the way to go. Mark out your =
fabric
with the garment pieces, transfer your embroidery patterns and then =
stretch
on the frame.

	For the type of frame to use you can view a reproduction frame on
our website. The URL is in the tagline.

	If you want further information, contact me.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Now available: =
Recipes
of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.=20
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.5.9/773 - Release Date: 4/22/2007
8:18 PM
=20

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Status: RO

Not that i have ever tryed to embellish gold on velvet, but i can tell that 
in some 18th century garments, there is trace from a layer of silk gauge 
wich they used between the velvet and the gold, so that the gold wont 
disapear in the plush of the velvet. A kind of invisible support on the 
velvet. When the embroidery is done, the surplus silk gauge is cut away, so 
it wont show.
And not again that i have made embroidery on velvet yeat, but it is not as 
difficult as you think, to embroider a large piece of material, if only you 
have a proper frame, i do it all the time with my big frame and my waistcoat 
and jacket embroideries.

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Mary <mary_m_haselbauer@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: was thread on spools in Eliz England?
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Status: RO

This image is a little earlier than your request but
it shows a sewing basket. 
http://tinyurl.com/2bcbfp

If this doesn't take you there go to 
http://www.bl.uk/ and search for "holy family at work"

I looks like thread is wound around a card or possibly
a spool. 

Cheers,
Mary

> I work at a Renn Faire, and would like to be able to
> do some handsewing,
> most likely linen shirts for my child. I don't want
> to have my plastic
> spools of thread flashing about! How did
> Elizabethans work with thread? Was
> it wound on spools (wooden, I assume)? Was it
> somehow put into hanks (like
> modern-day floss)? How can I make my thread look
> "right"?

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Embroidery Question
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I recently cobbled together something in a pinch that worked.=0A=0AI was ap=
pliqueing an embroidery onto silk velvet, and because of the shape of the g=
arment and the position of the applique, it had to be framed in order to be=
 managed. I wasn't at home so didn't have access to my supply of stretcher =
frames (what I have always called a slate frame, which was a new term to me=
) So I went out to the local WalMart and bought a really cheap wooden pictu=
re frame and a box of large head thumb tacks. I wiggled the tacks through t=
he weave (I found out the hard way this particular fabric liked to pull if =
not treated nicely) and tacked the garment into place on the frame just bar=
ely hard enough to work on, making sure the tack didn't press into the pile=
 too much, pinned down the applique, worked then removed it from the frame =
after I was finished. Yes, I had a few pinholes, but they are fading now th=
at I am working on something else on the garment and the fibres are slippin=
g back into place. Not optimal, but it accomplished the goal.=0A=0AKathy=0A=
 =0AErmine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a =
rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or =
barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.=0A=0AIt=92s never too late to be wh=
o you might have been.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Quest=
ioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131=0A=
=0A=0A      Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. G=
o to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: was thread on spools in Eliz England?
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Status: RO

> This image is a little earlier than your request but
> it shows a sewing basket.
> http://tinyurl.com/2bcbfp
>
> If this doesn't take you there go to
> http://www.bl.uk/ and search for "holy family at work"


I'm sure there is more symbolism in that painting than you could shake a 
stick at ... and I'd be interested in the whole story (off list) but if I 
could only have one explanation, I'd like to know about that little vase 
inside the cupboard doors of that little stool. The one with the bird 
perched on it.

As for the thread -- doesn't that look like a section of bone? Like a cow's 
leg bone or something with a largish diameter. It looks slightly curved. Or 
maybe a smaller round bone that is a whole section. That would be very much 
like a modern thread spool, but the perspective of the piece in the painting 
doesn't show the cross-section.

Denise B 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: was thread on spools in Eliz England?
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Status: RO

Quoting Land of Oz <landofoz@netins.net>:

> > This image is a little earlier than your request but
> > it shows a sewing basket.
> > http://tinyurl.com/2bcbfp
>
> I'm sure there is more symbolism in that painting than you could shake a
> stick at ... and I'd be interested in the whole story (off list) but if I 
> could only have one explanation, I'd like to know about that little vase 
> inside the cupboard doors of that little stool. The one with the bird 
> perched on it.

I was wondering about the ants!

> As for the thread -- doesn't that look like a section of bone? Like a cow's 
> leg bone or something with a largish diameter. It looks slightly curved. Or 
> maybe a smaller round bone that is a whole section. That would be very much 
> like a modern thread spool, but the perspective of the piece in the painting 
> doesn't show the cross-section.

I thought it looked like a card that had buckled under the tension of the thread
wrapped around it.

Emma
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] embroidery question
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 11:44:45 -0500
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Status: RO

Good recommendation for long hair velvet. Most of the long haired velvet
embroidery that I have seen has the work on a lighter fabric and then
appliquéd to the velvet. I have rarely seen this technique done on
velveteen.

De

-----Original Message-----
Not that i have ever tryed to embellish gold on velvet, but i can tell that
in some 18th century garments, there is trace from a layer of silk gauge
wich they used between the velvet and the gold, so that the gold wont
disapear in the plush of the velvet. A kind of invisible support on the
velvet. When the embroidery is done, the surplus silk gauge is cut away, so
it wont show.
And not again that i have made embroidery on velvet yeat, but it is not as
difficult as you think, to embroider a large piece of material, if only you
have a proper frame, i do it all the time with my big frame and my waistcoat
and jacket embroideries.

Bjarne



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: thread holders....
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Status: RO

At 8:55 AM -0600 4/24/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>I have found flat winders a pain to use, so instead I
>found some spools that are still modern shaped but
>made out of wood, and wound the thread on those. I
>also found some old wooden spools among my
>grandmothers sewing stuff! You can sand off any logo
>or printing on the ends and you're good to go. They're
>easy to use (once you get passed the tedium of
>rewinding thread on them) and don't draw attention to
>themselves, which is really the point.

If you jam the spool onto a bobbin winder, life becomes much easier...
And you can get the wooden/horn/MOP flat holders that can fit into a 
clamp fringe twister...
Maybe not the 'period' way to load up, but do it at home and nones 
the wiser <G>
Ta
Carol --string handling is turning into my lifes work <G>

>
>Brava, by the way, to you for recognizing this as a
>problem and wanting to do something about it. I've
>seen too many white plastic spools at Faire and gotten
>too many blank stares when I suggested that they
>should at least be concealed when in use.
>
>MaggiRos
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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At 8:55 AM -0600 4/24/07, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>I would think that you could use dowels or a smooth piece of branch, minus
>the bark if you can't find the old wooden spools.
>
>Kate

Google wooden spools. The woodworking supply folks sell various sizes 
by the gross...they are used in crafting...
Ta
Carol, just enabling <G>
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery question
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Status: RO


--- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
wrote:

> Not that i have ever tryed to embellish gold on
> velvet, but i can tell that 
> in some 18th century garments, there is trace from a
> layer of silk gauge 


Bjarne,

Can you describe this silk gauge? I've not heard of
that kind of silk before (but I know my knowledge of
various silks is limited).

Thanks,

Kimiko



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 20:28:01 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] tambour embroidery thread?
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Status: RO

Hi,
For long i had given up to make tambour embroidery because i couldnt make 
it.
But actually i couldnt make it because i used the wrong thread.
When trying succesfully, i  used ordinary sewing silk, and it worked for me.
Now i just wondered, those of you who do tambour embroidery, do you have any 
favourite thread to use, and where could i get this?
I prefer silk as you know.

Many thanks.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery question
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Status: RO

The book i have it from, says silk gauge. What i think it is - is a light 
transparent silk, like chiffon or something like that!
Its the book "18th century embroidery teckniques"
Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery question


>
> --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> wrote:
>
>> Not that i have ever tryed to embellish gold on
>> velvet, but i can tell that
>> in some 18th century garments, there is trace from a
>> layer of silk gauge
>
>
> Bjarne,
>
> Can you describe this silk gauge? I've not heard of
> that kind of silk before (but I know my knowledge of
> various silks is limited).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kimiko
>
>
>
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Status: RO

At 19:30 24/04/2007, you wrote:
>The book i have it from, says silk gauge. What i think it is - is a 
>light transparent silk, like chiffon or something like that!
>Its the book "18th century embroidery teckniques"
>Bjarne
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 8:23 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery question

That might be silk "gauze"? This is mentioned several times in the 
book that Bjarne mentions, rather than the "gauge" he calls it. I 
have seen net under embroidery too.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] was thread on spools in Eliz England?
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 10:56:25 -0400
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Status: RO

I would think that you could use dowels or a smooth piece of branch, minus 
the bark if you can't find the old wooden spools.

Kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MaggiRos" <maggiros@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:12 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] was thread on spools in Eliz England?


>I have found flat winders a pain to use, so instead I
> found some spools that are still modern shaped but
> made out of wood, and wound the thread on those. I
> also found some old wooden spools among my
> grandmothers sewing stuff! You can sand off any logo
> or printing on the ends and you're good to go. They're
> easy to use (once you get passed the tedium of
> rewinding thread on them) and don't draw attention to
> themselves, which is really the point.
>
> Brava, by the way, to you for recognizing this as a
> problem and wanting to do something about it. I've
> seen too many white plastic spools at Faire and gotten
> too many blank stares when I suggested that they
> should at least be concealed when in use.
>
> MaggiRos
>
>
> --- Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Little balls, huh? I could probably do that! Or
>> wound around a small
>> card...yeah....
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: was thread on spools in Eliz England?
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 11:30:44 -0500
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Status: RO

> I was wondering about the ants!

Is *that* what those are?!  Mighty big  -- yuck!


> I thought it looked like a card that had buckled under the tension of the 
> thread
> wrapped around it.

It does, but I wonder (because I don't know -- I'm sure someone else does) 
how common it was to have paper of that thickness and stiffness in either 
the time depicted in the painting, or the time in which it was painted? 
Especially a discarded piece.

A scrap of bone or a sliver of wood might be more "throw-away" in the time.

Denise B 

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 14:39:03 -0500
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Status: RO

Example of applique but with beads, scroll down to the sleeve.
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_30.htm

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Status: RO


> If this doesn't take you there go to
> http://www.bl.uk/ and search for "holy family at work"
> 
---
> 
> I'm sure there is more symbolism in that painting than you could shake a
> stick at ... and I'd be interested in the whole story (off list) but if I
> could only have one explanation, I'd like to know about that little vase
> inside the cupboard doors of that little stool. The one with the bird
> perched on it.
> 
---
> 
> I was wondering about the ants!
> 

I don't think the ants are symbolic, or the big red bug in the corner. I
think they were just for fun. Many manuscript embellishments, even in major
illuminations, were simply for the amusement of the owner. Remember, most
people didn't have many books or pictures (if any). I own a facsimile of the
Hours of Mary of Burgundy that has a hunt scene in the margins of many pages
and some silly drawings.

But the vase is probably a symbol of Mary's purity: her being a precious
vessel preserved from use. I'm sure Robin can tell us more...

Gail Finke


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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 13:14:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: thread holders....
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

I googled for wooden spools and among other things
found a whole lot of different types--with and without
thread--on Ebay! Which made me think that the bobbins
for bobbin lace might be a good solution too, plus
they're often very pretty.

MaggiRos

--- cahuff <cahuff@clearviewcatv.net> wrote:


> If you jam the spool onto a bobbin winder, life
> becomes much easier...
> And you can get the wooden/horn/MOP flat holders
> that can fit into a 
> clamp fringe twister...
> Maybe not the 'period' way to load up, but do it at
> home and nones 
> the wiser <G>

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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 15:58:11 -0700
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Status: RO

That's stunning! Do you know what that type of lace is called?
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 12:39 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question


Example of applique but with beads, scroll down to the sleeve.
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_30.htm

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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery thread?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Hi Bjarne,
   
  Lacis has a lot of tools: http://www.lacis.com/catalog/search.php
   
  and elegant stitch: http://www.elegantstitch.com/special.htm lists a variety of silk threads for tambour so I think you're on the right track.  
   
  I'd love to learn how to do this type of needlework, but it's down a bit on my list ;)  
   
  Good luck and I can't wait to see what you make next!
   
  Chris 

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
  Hi,
For long i had given up to make tambour embroidery because i couldnt make 
it.
But actually i couldnt make it because i used the wrong thread.
When trying succesfully, i used ordinary sewing silk, and it worked for me.
Now i just wondered, those of you who do tambour embroidery, do you have any 
favourite thread to use, and where could i get this?
I prefer silk as you know.

Many thanks.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Apr 24 21:26:16 2007
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: thread holders....
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 20:25:11 -0500
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Status: RO

All of you are awesome - I now have multiple options to choose from. Yay! :)

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of MaggiRos
> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 3:14 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: thread holders....
> 
> I googled for wooden spools and among other things found a 
> whole lot of different types--with and without thread--on 
> Ebay! Which made me think that the bobbins for bobbin lace 
> might be a good solution too, plus they're often very pretty.
> 
> MaggiRos
> 
> --- cahuff <cahuff@clearviewcatv.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> > If you jam the spool onto a bobbin winder, life becomes 
> much easier...
> > And you can get the wooden/horn/MOP flat holders that can 
> fit into a 
> > clamp fringe twister...
> > Maybe not the 'period' way to load up, but do it at home 
> and nones the 
> > wiser <G>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Apr 25 02:55:44 2007
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 01:54:17 -0500
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Status: RO

Sorry no. The type at the collar I want to say cluny but I'm not sure. I
wouldn't know what lace is on the skirt.
I found this site once when I was looking up types of lace.
http://www.marlamallett.com/l-needle.htm
And the skirt lace could, maybe be Brussels point de Gaze lace

-----Original Message-----
That's stunning! Do you know what that type of lace is called?
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
Example of applique but with beads, scroll down to the sleeve.
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_30.htm


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Apr 25 07:38:35 2007
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 04:08:04 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <gilshallos@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT silk kirtle for sale
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Status: RO

Greetings,

I realize I'm being commercial again but I have a 16th century cream 
and gold silk brocade kirtle, trimmed with real pearls, for sale on 
ebay.  It is based on the Eleanora of Toledo burial gown in Janet 
Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion."  It is a fairly versatile style and 
could work for either Tudor or Elizabethan. I made this kirtle to be 
worn under my laurelling gown and I only wore it for an hour at 
most.  I am selling it because it no longer fits, and I would like to 
see it appreciated rather than remaining in a closet forever.

I would love for you to check it out at:
<http://tinyurl.com/2bhz2q>http://tinyurl.com/2bhz2q

or

<http://cgi.ebay.com/Tudor-Elizabethan-Silk-Gown-Kirtle-SCA-Ren-Faire_W0QQitemZ250108567451QQihZ015QQcategoryZ125473QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem>http://cgi.ebay.com/Tudor-Elizabethan-Silk-Gown-Kirtle-SCA-Ren-Faire_W0QQitemZ250108567451QQihZ015QQcategoryZ125473QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

If for some reason neither link work, it is item #250108567451.  I 
would be happy to answer any questions you have about it, please 
email me at <mailto:gilshallos@comcast.net>gilshallos@comcast.net.

Cheers,
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg  
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <001501c786c4$08959040$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 16:06:34 +0200
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Status: RO

The bobbin lace on this dress must be Chantilly lace. Chantilly lace is made 
from unboiled silk thread, and uses thicker silk threads as gimps.
The big raised paisley ornamentation is not lace, but it must be 
embroidered.

Bjarnes 2 cents.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 12:58 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question


> That's stunning! Do you know what that type of lace is called?
> Sharon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 12:39 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
>
>
> Example of applique but with beads, scroll down to the sleeve.
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_30.htm
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 16:09:41 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] thread holders
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Status: RO

When i saw the picture of the holy family, and the sewing basked i thoaght, 
could this thread holder simply just have ben made from a piece of scratch 
linnen?
I know that paper was quite expensive in medieval times.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 14:11:44 -0400
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Status: RO

	This is not costume related, so delete if you're not interested.
Just thought for those of you who might be, my new cookbook, Recipes of a
Dumb Housewife, is now available through our website (in which case you'll
get a signed copy), or through Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and Borders,
internationally.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Now available: Recipes
of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
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Status: RO

Thank you, I knew someone would know.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 7:07 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery Question


The bobbin lace on this dress must be Chantilly lace. Chantilly lace is =
made

from unboiled silk thread, and uses thicker silk threads as gimps.
The big raised paisley ornamentation is not lace, but it must be=20
embroidered.

Bjarnes 2 cents.
----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 12:58 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question


> That's stunning! Do you know what that type of lace is called?
> Sharon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 12:39 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
>
>
> Example of applique but with beads, scroll down to the sleeve.
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_30.htm
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>=20


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000301c78765$2e4c7dc0$6400a8c0@MAIN>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: My new book
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 20:36:03 +0200
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Status: RO

Dear Lorina,
I want a signed book, but ill order it later, next month.
Congratulations with your wonderfull book.
I am preparing for Leif an me tonight candle light supper with a roasted 
salmon, potatoes and a sauce with butter, limejuice and dill.
We have so many flood streams and therefore can produce salmon freshly. If i 
had the shop nearby, i also wanted to start our supper with 6 ousters.
And i am sure the list dont mind.
Friday i travel again to my swedish gustavian friends, this time in a new 
suit; jacket and breeches made from USA Hyena silk taffeta .collour called 
Khaki Moss, baught it on sale, with a remnant of the yellow silk taffeta, i 
made for an amreican girl with the stumpwork embroidery.
This evening i have to praktice to make a nice makeup for my old face (52 
years old) and had a hard life, my newly baught wig from last year in grey 
from england
This time i shall also include a link, when i get home again from the happy 
weekend at Beatelund Spring party.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 8:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] OT: My new book


> This is not costume related, so delete if you're not interested.
> Just thought for those of you who might be, my new cookbook, Recipes of a
> Dumb Housewife, is now available through our website (in which case you'll
> get a signed copy), or through Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and Borders,
> internationally.
>
> Regards,
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine,
> original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Now available: Recipes
> of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.0/775 - Release Date: 4/24/2007
> 5:43 PM
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <002301c78767$f24b4970$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 20:42:12 +0200
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Status: RO

You are very welcome Sharon,
Glad to help you out on that question.
I know Chantilly and how it looks, because i was so fortunate to be teached 
by a duch teacher, very skilled one two.
Chantilly has a wowen pattern inside a motif outlined by a thick gimp 
thread.
Marie Antoinettes favourite Lace had a gimpthread wowen throughout the motif
Her lace was Blonde Lace.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 8:31 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question


Thank you, I knew someone would know.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 7:07 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery Question


The bobbin lace on this dress must be Chantilly lace. Chantilly lace is made

from unboiled silk thread, and uses thicker silk threads as gimps.
The big raised paisley ornamentation is not lace, but it must be
embroidered.

Bjarnes 2 cents.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 12:58 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question


> That's stunning! Do you know what that type of lace is called?
> Sharon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 12:39 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Embroidery Question
>
>
> Example of applique but with beads, scroll down to the sleeve.
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_30.htm
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Book question...
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Status: RO

I'm thinking about selling a book I have entitled "Medieval European 
Jewellery" by Ronald Lightbown. I know this isn't exactly a costume 
book, but it's certainly an accessories book.  :) It's long out of 
print, and won't be reprinted as far as the V&C Museum is telling me.

Anyway, I've tried finding a good asking price for this book, but 
Alibris and ABE Books and a couple other book-search sites come up with 
nothing. Last time I saw one for sale was about three years ago, and 
the bid was more than $950. Anyone have any good idea where I can find 
the value of this book? It's in very good condition and still has the 
intact dust cover.

Talia
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Status: RO

> I'm thinking about selling a book I have entitled "Medieval European
> Jewellery" by Ronald Lightbown. <snip>
>
> Anyway, I've tried finding a good asking price for this book, but
> Alibris and ABE Books and a couple other book-search sites come up with
> nothing. Last time I saw one for sale was about three years ago, and
> the bid was more than $950. Anyone have any good idea where I can find
> the value of this book? It's in very good condition and still has the
> intact dust cover.

Wow - Talia!  I wish I had the money to take it off your hands.  I suspect
that you'll be able to get whatever you ask for it, given how rarely a
copy is sold.

The last one that I saw available was a few months ago for about $1200.  I
don't know if it sold or was withdrawn from the site.

Good luck!

Colleen

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Status: RO

There really isn't any statistical data, especially recent data, on the 
used book market for something like this. Try listing it on ABEBOOKs or 
some such venue, for the maximum you think you can get. Be prepared to 
wait awhile to sell it. Remember that $900 or so is a lot for most 
individuals, but not necessarily for a library or institution. If it 
does not sell, lower the price.

That's what used booksellers do.  But if you ask one of them to carry it 
for you, they will want about 50% as a cut, and if you're only going to 
take 50% of the value you could easily sell it directly to someone.


Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

khanson@kc.rr.com wrote:

> I'm thinking about selling a book I have entitled "Medieval European 
> Jewellery" by Ronald Lightbown. I know this isn't exactly a costume 
> book, but it's certainly an accessories book.  :) It's long out of 
> print, and won't be reprinted as far as the V&C Museum is telling me.
> 
> Anyway, I've tried finding a good asking price for this book, but 
> Alibris and ABE Books and a couple other book-search sites come up with 
> nothing. Last time I saw one for sale was about three years ago, and 
> the bid was more than $950. Anyone have any good idea where I can find 
> the value of this book? It's in very good condition and still has the 
> intact dust cover.
> 
> Talia
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book question...
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Status: RO

At 03:56 PM 4/25/2007, you wrote:

>>I'm thinking about selling a book I have entitled "Medieval 
>>European Jewellery" by Ronald Lightbown. I know this isn't exactly ...
>...snip...
>>... idea where I can find the value of this book? It's in very good 
>>condition and still has the intact dust cover.
>>Talia


Talia

I will tell you, a friend of mine still cackles when she talks about 
snatching up this book for over $800. I would not be the least 
surprised if you could get well over $1000 for it.

Dianne 

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Status: RO

Dear List

I am making an open robe for my Elizabethan outfit and wondered if  
anyone has seen short ornamental puffed sleeves on an open robe - I  
can only find them on the closed robes or ropas.

I want to wear my elizabethan gown underneath the open robe, and not  
wear a loose kirtle as I've seen in some pictures - I wish for my  
gown to be seen clearly underneath.

I would also like to make a sleeve with pieces that weave over and  
under in a grid pattern. Can anyone recommend the best way to do this?

Many thanks

Aylwen


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Subject: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
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Status: RO

There was some conversation earlier about this new pattern.

I am interested in making version B, the doublet version. Can anyone  
identify what will need to be done differently to make it  
historically accurate?

I'm keen to make a one piece gown for a change - my two other gowns  
are skirts and bodices and it would be a nice change to have a one- 
piece.

Many thanks

Aylwen
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Status: RO

garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:
> There was some conversation earlier about this new pattern.
> 
> I am interested in making version B, the doublet version. Can anyone  
> identify what will need to be done differently to make it  historically 
> accurate?

Combine pieces 18 and 19 for the back. Leave off the sleeve ruffle. I'm 
not sure about the flare on the sleeve piece. I don't think the loops on 
the sleeve are right, either. I think it should be hooks, like the front 
opening.

Let us know how it comes out.


Dawn

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From: Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] thread holders
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Status: RO


On Apr 25, 2007, at 1:00 PM, you wrote:

> When i saw the picture of the holy family, and the sewing basked i  
> thoaght, could this thread holder simply just have ben made from a  
> piece of scratch linnen?
> I know that paper was quite expensive in medieval times.
>
> Bjarne

[This is my all-time favorite depiction of the holy family.]  Since  
Joseph is a carpenter, I think it's likely that it's a piece of scrap  
wood.

Suzanne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
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Status: RO

Hi Dawn

Do you think the sleeve is accurate? It looks to me as
though it is too shaped. In Jean Hunnisett the sleeves do
not have as much shaping.

I've brought the pattern to work with me today to trace off
at lunch time.

Cheers

Aylwen 
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Status: RO

Bjarne had a good point I'd forgotten!  For *most* embroidery on velvet, you will probably want to use some form of waste canvas or gauze that you can cut away afterwards to help keep the threads from hiding down in the velvet.... velveteen as well.


Good Luck!
-Liz


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Status: RO

Would vilene tearaway, heavy duty work? I used this a lot
with my satin stitching on Irish dance costumes and have
miles of it.

Cheers, Aylwen

----- Original Message -----
From: Cozit / Liz <imcozit@verizon.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: velvet and embroidery
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 21:53:47 -0400

> Bjarne had a good point I'd forgotten!  For *most*
> embroidery on velvet, you will probably want to use some
> form of waste canvas or gauze that you can cut away
> afterwards to help keep the threads from hiding down in
> the velvet.... velveteen as well.
> 
> 
> Good Luck!
> -Liz
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:

> Hi Dawn
> 
> Do you think the sleeve is accurate? It looks to me as
> though it is too shaped. In Jean Hunnisett the sleeves do
> not have as much shaping.

I don't have Hunnisett so I can't say how they compare with her. However 
I do think the sleeve cap is a little too poofy.


Dawn


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From: "garden@netspeed.com.au" <garden@netspeed.com.au>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
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Status: RO

I'll have a look at my other patterns tonight and sort out
the sleeve later.

I've traced it all out, and added the side back bodice to
the front pieces, so I can lace up the side back/back seam
to allow for growth fluctuations. I will use the front
opening for putting on though. I'm being inspired by some of
the gorgeous gowns on Festive Attyre.
I'm planning to wear a high necked smock underneath - do you
think I can do this and wear a ruff? 
I'd love to find an example of this showing some blackwork
on the collar and cuffs.

Must get back to work, Aylwen

----- Original Message -----
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a
question
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 22:56:41 -0500

> garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:
> 
> > Hi Dawn
> > 
> > Do you think the sleeve is accurate? It looks to me as
> > though it is too shaped. In Jean Hunnisett the sleeves
> > do not have as much shaping.
> 
> I don't have Hunnisett so I can't say how they compare
> with her. However  I do think the sleeve cap is a little
> too poofy.
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] 7th century silk?
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Status: RO

Hello everyone, first up the short version of the question, does anybody 
know what fabric 7th century Italian or English church vestments 
(specifically the chasuble) would have been made of?
Read on if you're interested in why I need to know. My SCA group has been 
given a quest to find a 'relic' of our patron saint (St Aldhelm) I've found 
a 13th century book on the lives of the saints 
(http://www.catholic-forum.com/saints/golden000.htm for a 15th century 
English translation) which mentions a relic which was still on display in 
the 13th century in the form of a chasuble which was miraculously hung on a 
sunbeam. If we take this source at face value and assume that this was 
really the chasuble used by an English monk while visiting Rome in the late 
7th century (so it could have either been purchased in Rome or taken with 
him from England) would it have been made from silk or wool (presumably not 
linen as it was described as purple)?
Thanks,
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/





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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 7th century silk?
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Status: RO


On Apr 25, 2007, at 11:31 PM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> Hello everyone, first up the short version of the question, does =20
> anybody know what fabric 7th century Italian or English church =20
> vestments (specifically the chasuble) would have been made of?
> Read on if you're interested in why I need to know. My SCA group =20
> has been given a quest to find a 'relic' of our patron saint (St =20
> Aldhelm) I've found a 13th century book on the lives of the saints =20
> (http://www.catholic-forum.com/saints/golden000.htm for a 15th =20
> century English translation) which mentions a relic which was still =20=

> on display in the 13th century in the form of a chasuble which was =20
> miraculously hung on a sunbeam. If we take this source at face =20
> value and assume that this was really the chasuble used by an =20
> English monk while visiting Rome in the late 7th century (so it =20
> could have either been purchased in Rome or taken with him from =20
> England) would it have been made from silk or wool (presumably not =20
> linen as it was described as purple)?

If it helps, there is a surviving 8th c. chasuble associated with St. =20=

Ebbo held at the cathedral museum at Sens, France.  It's made of silk =20=

and is described in:

Chartraire, E.  1897.  Inventaire du Tressor de l'=E9glise Primatiale =20=

et M=E9tropolitaine de Sens.  Paul Duchemin, Sens

This source only has a text description.  I don't seem to have a =20
mention of it in my notes from when I was at the museum, so it may =20
not have been on display at that time.  There is also a silk dalmatic =20=

associated with St. Ebbo held there which (now) is a sort of slate-=20
blue in color (the fabric is a tabby weave, not particularly glossy, =20
as I recall) and is trimmed by -- I kid you not -- narrow bands of =20
woven trim in a "rainbow" pattern (i.e., half a dozen different =20
colored stripes in parallel).

For what that's worth.

Heather

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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 00:39:45 -0700
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Status: RO

Yes, do wear the high necked chemise, and put the ruff on top. The =
ruffle on
the chemise collar, (assuming you have a ruffle), will help hold up the =
ruff
properly.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 9:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question


I'll have a look at my other patterns tonight and sort out
the sleeve later.

I've traced it all out, and added the side back bodice to
the front pieces, so I can lace up the side back/back seam
to allow for growth fluctuations. I will use the front
opening for putting on though. I'm being inspired by some of
the gorgeous gowns on Festive Attyre.
I'm planning to wear a high necked smock underneath - do you
think I can do this and wear a ruff?=20
I'd love to find an example of this showing some blackwork
on the collar and cuffs.

Must get back to work, Aylwen

----- Original Message -----
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a
question
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 22:56:41 -0500

> garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:
>=20
> > Hi Dawn
> >=20
> > Do you think the sleeve is accurate? It looks to me as
> > though it is too shaped. In Jean Hunnisett the sleeves
> > do not have as much shaping.
>=20
> I don't have Hunnisett so I can't say how they compare
> with her. However  I do think the sleeve cap is a little
> too poofy.
>=20
>=20
> Dawn
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<433053C6-33B9-43DA-84B8-3ED6E6D7D228@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 7th century silk?
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 18:22:46 +1000
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Status: RO

That's perfect, thanks Heather. I'll ask around for a small scrap of purple 
silk which we can claim is a piece of the miraculous chasuble, I'm sure 
somebody in the Barony will have something, and a piece less than an inch in 
size would certainly not be missed. I don't really need to document this (we 
had several joking suggestions for what the relic should be from our last 
meeting, including faking one of his bones from play-dough) but I wanted to 
know for my own benefit before I put out a general call for fabric scraps.
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Heather Rose Jones" <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 7th century silk?

If it helps, there is a surviving 8th c. chasuble associated with St.
Ebbo held at the cathedral museum at Sens, France.  It's made of silk
and is described in:

Chartraire, E.  1897.  Inventaire du Tressor de l'église Primatiale
et Métropolitaine de Sens.  Paul Duchemin, Sens

This source only has a text description.  I don't seem to have a
mention of it in my notes from when I was at the museum, so it may
not have been on display at that time.  There is also a silk dalmatic
associated with St. Ebbo held there which (now) is a sort of slate-
blue in color (the fabric is a tabby weave, not particularly glossy,
as I recall) and is trimmed by -- I kid you not -- narrow bands of
woven trim in a "rainbow" pattern (i.e., half a dozen different
colored stripes in parallel).

For what that's worth.

Heather






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From: garden@netspeed.com.au
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 21:54:00 +1000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Phew! I have some blackwork I want to incorporate into a collar and  
cuffs. Yes, I will have a small pleating along the top of the collar.

Now I just have to get the ropa/closed/open gown sorted out! I have  
both of the RH patterns, the MM pattern and JA's book. Too many choices!

Cheers, Aylwen


On 26/04/2007, at 5:39 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> Yes, do wear the high necked chemise, and put the ruff on top. The  
> ruffle on
> the chemise collar, (assuming you have a ruffle), will help hold up  
> the ruff
> properly.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 9:35 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
>
>
> I'll have a look at my other patterns tonight and sort out
> the sleeve later.
>
> I've traced it all out, and added the side back bodice to
> the front pieces, so I can lace up the side back/back seam
> to allow for growth fluctuations. I will use the front
> opening for putting on though. I'm being inspired by some of
> the gorgeous gowns on Festive Attyre.
> I'm planning to wear a high necked smock underneath - do you
> think I can do this and wear a ruff?
> I'd love to find an example of this showing some blackwork
> on the collar and cuffs.
>
> Must get back to work, Aylwen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a
> question
> Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 22:56:41 -0500
>
>> garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Dawn
>>>
>>> Do you think the sleeve is accurate? It looks to me as
>>> though it is too shaped. In Jean Hunnisett the sleeves
>>> do not have as much shaping.
>>
>> I don't have Hunnisett so I can't say how they compare
>> with her. However  I do think the sleeve cap is a little
>> too poofy.
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Victoria Ridenour" <opmetr@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] thread holders
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Status: RO

On 4/25/07, Suzanne <sovagris@cybermesa.com> wrote:
>
>
> On Apr 25, 2007, at 1:00 PM, you wrote:
>
> > When i saw the picture of the holy family, and the sewing basked i
> > thoaght, could this thread holder simply just have ben made from a
> > piece of scratch linnen?
> > I know that paper was quite expensive in medieval times.
> >
> > Bjarne
>
> [This is my all-time favorite depiction of the holy family.]  Since
> Joseph is a carpenter, I think it's likely that it's a piece of scrap
> wood.
>
> Suzanne
> _______________________________________________
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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 7th century silk?
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Status: RO


What weave of purple?

I love purple and I love silk, so I have many scraps of different purple silk..

i mean if you can't find it locally.

Katheryne

----- Original Message -----
From: Elizabeth Walpole 
> That's perfect, thanks Heather. I'll ask around for a small 
> scrap of purple silk which we can claim is a piece of the miraculous chasuble, 
> Elizabeth
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 7th century silk?
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 12:31:54 -0500
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Status: RO

The window that depicts St. Aldhelm is wearing red.
Take the next with a grain of salt as no docs for them yet;
The chasuble is alleged to have been give to him in Rome and it is suppose
to have had dragons on it and was of silk.
Another source;
"Bishop Aldhelm in Rome in the late 7th c. acquired a silk chasuble with a
design of peacocks"
If it was of silk it would have been ironic as he complained/chastised
regular folk for wearing it.
Fibers of the Anglo-Saxons were wool, linen, hemp, and nettle. imports were
silk and possibly on a rare occasion in small sections, cotton.
From: http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/articles/as_textiles.htm
"Purpura
Even though contemporary written sources make it clear that a fabric called
purpura was prized by the Anglo-Saxons even above silk and pattern-woven
silk, it is in a sense a mystery fabric because they do not specify what it
is. It has been suggested that it might have been a fur or pelt, but our
written sources reveal that, in spite of its etymology denoting purple,
purpura was not necessarily that colour. There was a red purpura tunicle at
Ely, a white purpura chasuble and a green purpura cope at Peterborough, and
after the Conquest black and red purpura vestments were acquired by
Rochester, and Eddius relates that St Wilfrid adorned Ripon with various
distinct colours of purpura. Now while it is true that furs can be red (or
russet rather), black and white, they are not, I believe, green! - so it may
be reasonable to assume that purpura was not another name for fur or pelt.

Purpura would seem to have been very shiny fabric. Aelfric in his Life of St
Martin describes a garment as ‘shining like purpura’. That purpura does not
necessarily mean ‘purple’ is easily accounted for. J André in his study on
colour terms in Latin (Étude sur les Termes de Couleur dans la Langue
Latine, Paris 1949) notes that even before the Middle Ages the Latin
adjective purpureus had glided into meaning brightness and was used to
describe:
the light of day
the full spectrum of the rainbow
the glint of sunlight on a lightly rippled sea
the shining whiteness of snow

Through various writings we learn that the corpses of the Anglo-Saxon élite,
both lay and clerical, were shrouded in purpura, and purpura was also used
for these corpses’ underlays and overlays. This élite also used it for
garments and vestments, and for decorating interiors of palaces, halls, and
churches.

We also know that purpura was thicker than normal silk. The London Inventory
lists a textile as being ‘like purpura’ in that it is thick and of more than
one colour.

For a more detailed description we must forward in time to Reginald of
Durham, writing between 1165-1172. He describes St Cuthbert’s dalmatic as
related to him by witnesses contemporary to the saint’s reburial at Durham
in 1104. The colour, he writes, ‘...was a reddish purple....but this was
shot with another colour, yellow, which produced ever-changing patterns of
variegated colour’ (Dodwell), and ‘...this infusion of a yellow colour is
discerned to be inherent in the cloth, sprinkled dropwise over the whole,
and by its strength and brilliance the reddish-purple tint is made to give
out a more powerful and brighter light.’ (Reginaldi....libellus, trans.
Pace).

As Dodwell points out, nowhere in the text does Reginald call this fabric
purpura. It is however ‘...an exact description of shot-silk taffeta as it
catches the light’.

Given that we know purpura came in variegated colours, and was a robust
fabric, it is not unreasonable then to deduce, as Dodwell does, that it was
the name the Anglo-Saxons applied to shot-silk taffeta. This conclusion of
Dodwell’s is given further weight by information in the Life of St Edward
(mid-11th c) that the Confessor had a ship with sails of purpura embroidered
with scenes of the great sea-battles of Anglo-Saxon kings, and that King
Edgar owned a cloak of ‘distinguished’ purpura, and that in the 7th c King
Oswald’s banner was of purpura encrusted with gold.

And even if purpura was not shot-silk taffeta, it is safe to eliminate fur
or pelt from the theories since neither kings’ nor saints’ corpses were
shrouded in this manner, and sails of fur or pelt - let alone embroidered
fur or pelt, are highly unlikely, as indeed would be banners."

 De


-----Original Message-----
That's perfect, thanks Heather. I'll ask around for a small scrap of purple
silk which we can claim is a piece of the miraculous chasuble, I'm sure
somebody in the Barony will have something, and a piece less than an inch in
size would certainly not be missed. I don't really need to document this (we
had several joking suggestions for what the relic should be from our last
meeting, including faking one of his bones from play-dough) but I wanted to
know for my own benefit before I put out a general call for fabric scraps.
Elizabeth


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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 17:13:45 -0700
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Status: RO

Blackwork is especially attractive ON the ruff, along the edges.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 4:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question


Phew! I have some blackwork I want to incorporate into a collar and  
cuffs. Yes, I will have a small pleating along the top of the collar.

Now I just have to get the ropa/closed/open gown sorted out! I have  
both of the RH patterns, the MM pattern and JA's book. Too many choices!

Cheers, Aylwen


On 26/04/2007, at 5:39 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> Yes, do wear the high necked chemise, and put the ruff on top. The  
> ruffle on
> the chemise collar, (assuming you have a ruffle), will help hold up  
> the ruff
> properly.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
> bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 9:35 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
>
>
> I'll have a look at my other patterns tonight and sort out
> the sleeve later.
>
> I've traced it all out, and added the side back bodice to
> the front pieces, so I can lace up the side back/back seam
> to allow for growth fluctuations. I will use the front
> opening for putting on though. I'm being inspired by some of
> the gorgeous gowns on Festive Attyre.
> I'm planning to wear a high necked smock underneath - do you
> think I can do this and wear a ruff?
> I'd love to find an example of this showing some blackwork
> on the collar and cuffs.
>
> Must get back to work, Aylwen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a
> question
> Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 22:56:41 -0500
>
>> garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Dawn
>>>
>>> Do you think the sleeve is accurate? It looks to me as
>>> though it is too shaped. In Jean Hunnisett the sleeves
>>> do not have as much shaping.
>>
>> I don't have Hunnisett so I can't say how they compare
>> with her. However  I do think the sleeve cap is a little
>> too poofy.
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 7th century silk?
From: Aylwen & John Garden <garden@netspeed.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] 7th century silk?
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Status: RO

Elizabeth,
I have some scraps of dark purple silk left over from John's cavalier
outfit.

Cheers, Aylwen


On 26/4/07 6:22 PM, "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> That's perfect, thanks Heather. I'll ask around for a small scrap of purp=
le
> silk which we can claim is a piece of the miraculous chasuble, I'm sure
> somebody in the Barony will have something, and a piece less than an inch=
 in
> size would certainly not be missed. I don't really need to document this =
(we
> had several joking suggestions for what the relic should be from our last
> meeting, including faking one of his bones from play-dough) but I wanted =
to
> know for my own benefit before I put out a general call for fabric scraps=
.
> Elizabeth
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Heather Rose Jones" <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 5:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 7th century silk?
>=20
> If it helps, there is a surviving 8th c. chasuble associated with St.
> Ebbo held at the cathedral museum at Sens, France.  It's made of silk
> and is described in:
>=20
> Chartraire, E.  1897.  Inventaire du Tressor de l'=E9glise Primatiale
> et M=E9tropolitaine de Sens.  Paul Duchemin, Sens
>=20
> This source only has a text description.  I don't seem to have a
> mention of it in my notes from when I was at the museum, so it may
> not have been on display at that time.  There is also a silk dalmatic
> associated with St. Ebbo held there which (now) is a sort of slate-
> blue in color (the fabric is a tabby weave, not particularly glossy,
> as I recall) and is trimmed by -- I kid you not -- narrow bands of
> woven trim in a "rainbow" pattern (i.e., half a dozen different
> colored stripes in parallel).
>=20
> For what that's worth.
>=20
> Heather
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 7th century silk?
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 17:16:14 -0700
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Status: RO

The "purple" that it may have been, the one made from, I think, sea =
snail
shells, supposedly was a reddish-purple, maybe closer to magenta than =
the
blue-purple we think of as purple today. Someone on this list was =
talking
about it a few months ago.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:32 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 7th century silk?


The window that depicts St. Aldhelm is wearing red.
Take the next with a grain of salt as no docs for them yet;
The chasuble is alleged to have been give to him in Rome and it is =
suppose
to have had dragons on it and was of silk.
Another source;
"Bishop Aldhelm in Rome in the late 7th c. acquired a silk chasuble with =
a
design of peacocks"
If it was of silk it would have been ironic as he complained/chastised
regular folk for wearing it.
Fibers of the Anglo-Saxons were wool, linen, hemp, and nettle. imports =
were
silk and possibly on a rare occasion in small sections, cotton.
From: http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/articles/as_textiles.htm
"Purpura
Even though contemporary written sources make it clear that a fabric =
called
purpura was prized by the Anglo-Saxons even above silk and pattern-woven
silk, it is in a sense a mystery fabric because they do not specify what =
it
is. It has been suggested that it might have been a fur or pelt, but our
written sources reveal that, in spite of its etymology denoting purple,
purpura was not necessarily that colour. There was a red purpura tunicle =
at
Ely, a white purpura chasuble and a green purpura cope at Peterborough, =
and
after the Conquest black and red purpura vestments were acquired by
Rochester, and Eddius relates that St Wilfrid adorned Ripon with various
distinct colours of purpura. Now while it is true that furs can be red =
(or
russet rather), black and white, they are not, I believe, green! - so it =
may
be reasonable to assume that purpura was not another name for fur or =
pelt.

Purpura would seem to have been very shiny fabric. Aelfric in his Life =
of St
Martin describes a garment as =91shining like purpura=92. That purpura =
does not
necessarily mean =91purple=92 is easily accounted for. J Andr=E9 in his =
study on
colour terms in Latin (=C9tude sur les Termes de Couleur dans la Langue
Latine, Paris 1949) notes that even before the Middle Ages the Latin
adjective purpureus had glided into meaning brightness and was used to
describe:
the light of day
the full spectrum of the rainbow
the glint of sunlight on a lightly rippled sea
the shining whiteness of snow

Through various writings we learn that the corpses of the Anglo-Saxon =
=E9lite,
both lay and clerical, were shrouded in purpura, and purpura was also =
used
for these corpses=92 underlays and overlays. This =E9lite also used it =
for
garments and vestments, and for decorating interiors of palaces, halls, =
and
churches.

We also know that purpura was thicker than normal silk. The London =
Inventory
lists a textile as being =91like purpura=92 in that it is thick and of =
more than
one colour.

For a more detailed description we must forward in time to Reginald of
Durham, writing between 1165-1172. He describes St Cuthbert=92s dalmatic =
as
related to him by witnesses contemporary to the saint=92s reburial at =
Durham
in 1104. The colour, he writes, =91...was a reddish purple....but this =
was
shot with another colour, yellow, which produced ever-changing patterns =
of
variegated colour=92 (Dodwell), and =91...this infusion of a yellow =
colour is
discerned to be inherent in the cloth, sprinkled dropwise over the =
whole,
and by its strength and brilliance the reddish-purple tint is made to =
give
out a more powerful and brighter light.=92 (Reginaldi....libellus, =
trans.
Pace).

As Dodwell points out, nowhere in the text does Reginald call this =
fabric
purpura. It is however =91...an exact description of shot-silk taffeta =
as it
catches the light=92.

Given that we know purpura came in variegated colours, and was a robust
fabric, it is not unreasonable then to deduce, as Dodwell does, that it =
was
the name the Anglo-Saxons applied to shot-silk taffeta. This conclusion =
of
Dodwell=92s is given further weight by information in the Life of St =
Edward
(mid-11th c) that the Confessor had a ship with sails of purpura =
embroidered
with scenes of the great sea-battles of Anglo-Saxon kings, and that King
Edgar owned a cloak of =91distinguished=92 purpura, and that in the 7th =
c King
Oswald=92s banner was of purpura encrusted with gold.

And even if purpura was not shot-silk taffeta, it is safe to eliminate =
fur
or pelt from the theories since neither kings=92 nor saints=92 corpses =
were
shrouded in this manner, and sails of fur or pelt - let alone =
embroidered
fur or pelt, are highly unlikely, as indeed would be banners."

 De


-----Original Message-----
That's perfect, thanks Heather. I'll ask around for a small scrap of =
purple
silk which we can claim is a piece of the miraculous chasuble, I'm sure
somebody in the Barony will have something, and a piece less than an =
inch in
size would certainly not be missed. I don't really need to document this =
(we
had several joking suggestions for what the relic should be from our =
last
meeting, including faking one of his bones from play-dough) but I wanted =
to
know for my own benefit before I put out a general call for fabric =
scraps.
Elizabeth


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
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Status: RO

Just my 2 cents worth, but when I looked at the pic on the front of the
pattern, the armseye seems too large. If you look at the pics of Helen
Mirren in these gowns, the sleeves fit tightly up under the arm. Gives a
more period look, but maybe is not so comfortable or easy to fit for =
today's
folks.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of garden@netspeed.com.au
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 4:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question


Hi Dawn

Do you think the sleeve is accurate? It looks to me as
though it is too shaped. In Jean Hunnisett the sleeves do
not have as much shaping.

I've brought the pattern to work with me today to trace off
at lunch time.

Cheers

Aylwen=20
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
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Status: RO


From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>

<>Just my 2 cents worth, but when I looked at the pic on the front of the
pattern, the armseye seems too large. If you look at the pics of Helen
Mirren in these gowns, the sleeves fit tightly up under the arm. Gives a
more period look, but maybe is not so comfortable or easy to fit for today's
folks.

This is counter-intuitive, but the more fitted the armseye, the more 
movement you have, as long as the sleeve head rests on the point of the 
shoulder.  I make Elizabethan and Cavalier doublets and bodices for rapier 
combat and making the armseye too big makes the whole garment pull with 
movement and actually restricts the arm.  However, it has to be fitted to 
the individual, not made as an approximation or average, which is why most 
modern clothes are so loose.

Melusine




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
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Status: RO

Yes, I agree. I have had so much grief with men's outfits -
pattern companies always make the armsyces too loose, and so
I've had to re-draft most of the sleeves for our band's
outfits. Then, the men ask why I'm making the sleeves so
tight - today's modern styles make it hard for them to
realise they will have more movement. Because we wear these
outfits for dancing we need to raise our arms above the
head. At least for Elizabethan I can make the sleeves
detachable!

Cheers, Aylwen

 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a
question
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 19:48:35 -0700

> From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
> 
> <>Just my 2 cents worth, but when I looked at the pic on
> the front of the pattern, the armseye seems too large. If
> you look at the pics of Helen Mirren in these gowns, the
> sleeves fit tightly up under the arm. Gives a more period
> look, but maybe is not so comfortable or easy to fit for
> today's folks.
> 
> This is counter-intuitive, but the more fitted the armseye
> , the more  movement you have, as long as the sleeve head
> rests on the point of the  shoulder.  I make Elizabethan
> and Cavalier doublets and bodices for rapier  combat and
> making the armseye too big makes the whole garment pull
> with  movement and actually restricts the arm.  However,
> it has to be fitted to  the individual, not made as an
> approximation or average, which is why most  modern
> clothes are so loose.
> 
> Melusine

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 10:00:27 -0400
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On Apr 26, 2007, at 8:13 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> Blackwork is especially attractive ON the ruff, along the edges.

Yes!  See
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/EdwardHoby1.jpg

Melanie Schuessler
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 20:38:32 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] elizabethan sweetbag
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Status: RO

Hi,
Thoaght i aught to tell you about the 51 issue of Australia Embroidery 
Magazine "Inspirations" has the most stunning embroidered elizabethan 
sweetbag, with strawberries in bloom and with fruits as well as Heartsease 
flowers.
It is so beautifull, and those of you who might want it, could order it from
http://www.countrybumpkin.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=433808

Bjarne whose fingers really want to make...........



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] hand rolling hems
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Status: RO

Hi all. I need to hand roll a veil hem and have never done it before.
Could someone please give me instructions?

thanks!

Arlys
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolling hems
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Status: RO

Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> Hi all. I need to hand roll a veil hem and have never done it before.
> Could someone please give me instructions?
> 

Trim off any fraying edges. Take the edge of the fabric between your 
thumb and finger and try and roll it into a narrow hem. Curse. Snip off 
any frayed bits you caused. Take tiny stitches with the other hand. Repeat.

Practive on scraps first. It takes a bit to get used to the individual 
properties of whatever fabric you're using.


Dawn


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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 15:36:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

There are many images of ladies in robes, but few of
them show how the lower half of the body looks, so we
are left wondering. But I think I know of a few images
where it appears to be open in the front. However,
some may be fully closing gowns, that were simply left
open in the front, something I sometimes do when I
wear a more fitted kirtle.

Lady Burghley
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/MildredCooke1562.html

Another of the same lady
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/MildredCooke1565.html

Countess of Warwick
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/CountessWarwick.html

Countess of Sussex (I think those are short puffs
trimmed/lined in white fur, but it's hard to tell with
the tone on tone B&W image)
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1570/FrancesSidney.html

As to how to make those woven sleeves, the best
directions I remember seeing, was to make an under
sleeve in the shape you want, then take ribbons, or
bias cut fabrics, and weave them as you desire,
pinning them to the undersleeve, then sew them into
place along the edges. I don't know where I read that,
but it was someplace online, or maybe in a message
from a mailing list somewhere. Sorry I can't be more
specific.

Good luck,

Kimiko
www.kimiko1.com



--- garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:

> I am making an open robe for my Elizabethan outfit
> and wondered if  
> anyone has seen short ornamental puffed sleeves on
> an open robe - I  
> can only find them on the closed robes or ropas.
> 
> I want to wear my elizabethan gown underneath the
> open robe, and not  
> wear a loose kirtle as I've seen in some pictures -
> I wish for my  
> gown to be seen clearly underneath.
> 
> I would also like to make a sleeve with pieces that
> weave over and  
> under in a grid pattern. Can anyone recommend the
> best way to do this?
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Aylwen


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolling hems
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Status: RO

At 03:14 PM 4/27/2007, you wrote:
>Cynthia J Ley wrote:
>
>>Hi all. I need to hand roll a veil hem and have never done it before.
>>Could someone please give me instructions?
>
>Trim off any fraying edges. Take the edge of the fabric between your 
>thumb and finger and try and roll it into a narrow hem. Curse. Snip 
>off any frayed bits you caused. Take tiny stitches with the other hand. Repeat.
>
>Practive on scraps first. It takes a bit to get used to the 
>individual properties of whatever fabric you're using.
>
>
>Dawn

One point, don't try starting at a corner!  It will drive you 
crazy.  Start at least a couple of inches from any corner and it will 
be much easier.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Status: RO

At 23:36 27/04/2007, you wrote:
>There are many images of ladies in robes, but few of
>them show how the lower half of the body looks, so we
>are left wondering. But I think I know of a few images
>where it appears to be open in the front. However,
>some may be fully closing gowns, that were simply left
>open in the front, something I sometimes do when I
>wear a more fitted kirtle.
>
>Lady Burghley
>http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/MildredCooke1562.html
>
>Another of the same lady
>http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/MildredCooke1565.html
>
>Countess of Warwick
>http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/CountessWarwick.html
>
>Countess of Sussex (I think those are short puffs
>trimmed/lined in white fur, but it's hard to tell with
>the tone on tone B&W image)
>http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1570/FrancesSidney.html

This lady is now considered in all likelihood to be Queen Elizabeth 
l. According to Janet Arnold, she is standing in front of a Chair of 
State. I think there may be an article in the catalogue "The Tudor 
Dynasty" from which I believe your picture comes.


>As to how to make those woven sleeves, the best
>directions I remember seeing, was to make an under
>sleeve in the shape you want, then take ribbons, or
>bias cut fabrics, and weave them as you desire,
>pinning them to the undersleeve, then sew them into
>place along the edges. I don't know where I read that,
>but it was someplace online, or maybe in a message
>from a mailing list somewhere. Sorry I can't be more
>specific.

There is a doublet of woven strips in Arnold, P of F 1560-1620.

Suzi

>Good luck,
>
>Kimiko
>www.kimiko1.com
>
>
>
>--- garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:
>
> > I am making an open robe for my Elizabethan outfit
> > and wondered if
> > anyone has seen short ornamental puffed sleeves on
> > an open robe - I
> > can only find them on the closed robes or ropas.
> >
> > I want to wear my elizabethan gown underneath the
> > open robe, and not
> > wear a loose kirtle as I've seen in some pictures -
> > I wish for my
> > gown to be seen clearly underneath.
> >
> > I would also like to make a sleeve with pieces that
> > weave over and
> > under in a grid pattern. Can anyone recommend the
> > best way to do this?
> >
> > Many thanks
> >
> > Aylwen
>
>
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolling hems
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Status: RO


On Fri, 27 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:

> Trim off any fraying edges. Take the edge of the fabric between your
> thumb and finger and try and roll it into a narrow hem. Curse. Snip
> off any frayed bits you caused. Take tiny stitches with the other
> hand. Repeat.

I'll confess this is how I've always done it. But not long ago -- maybe
even on this list? -- I read of a quicker technique that had to do with
making a tiny fold and stitching alternately above the raw edge and then
into the edge of the fold; take a few stitches, pull, and the hem rolls
itself. But I may be missing a step or trick here, and it probably matters
exactly how you point the needle. I am half-remembering a diagram which
may have been on a webpage or may have been someone's ASCII drawing on the
list. Does this ring bells for anyone?

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] was... New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern,
	now fit in period clothing
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Status: RO

Thank you Melusine!

I have a huge problem with the gianormous armholes modern people feel they 
need in period clothes...but then I also have a problem with the loose fit 
of period clothing on a lot of modern interpreters.

They feel that proper period clothes are too hot.

This just isn't the case, if they are made of proper materials, and aren't 
uncomfortable, or heavy, if fitted properly  to the body.

Kelly



>> Gives a
> >more period look, but maybe is not so comfortable or >>easy to fit for 
> >today's
> >folks.
>
> This is counter-intuitive, but the more fitted the armseye, the more 
> movement you have, as long as the sleeve head rests on the point of the 
> shoulder. 

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Status: RO

> On Fri, 27 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:
>
>> Trim off any fraying edges. Take the edge of the fabric between your
>> thumb and finger and try and roll it into a narrow hem. Curse. Snip
>> off any frayed bits you caused. Take tiny stitches with the other
>> hand. Repeat.
>
> I'll confess this is how I've always done it. But not long ago -- maybe
> even on this list? -- I read of a quicker technique that had to do with
> making a tiny fold and stitching alternately above the raw edge and then
> into the edge of the fold; take a few stitches, pull, and the hem rolls
> itself. But I may be missing a step or trick here, and it probably matters
> exactly how you point the needle. I am half-remembering a diagram which
> may have been on a webpage or may have been someone's ASCII drawing on the
> list. Does this ring bells for anyone?
>
> --Robin

Yes it does.  I sent a file with illustrations to the original poster 
privately, since this list doesn't take attachments.  It also helps to use a 
sewing clamp as a third hand to keep the fabric taut.

Melusine 

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Status: RO

Rats...could you send it to me as well, or if you are willing to share I
could put it up on a webpage.

Thanks,

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Carmen Beaudry
Does this ring bells for anyone?
>
> --Robin

Yes it does.  I sent a file with illustrations to the original poster 
privately, since this list doesn't take attachments.  It also helps to use a

sewing clamp as a third hand to keep the fabric taut.

Melusine 

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] elizabethan sweetbag-stumpwork
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 17:24:31 -0700
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Status: RO

Bjarne, have you ever tried stumpwork?  I have a wonderful book on it
http://tinyurl.com/3x42t6 and though I "stink" at embroidery, I've even
managed to make some pretty cool stuff.
Even if you never made any of the things in this book, it is wonderful eye
candy.  She - Jane Nichols - has a website with kits and stuff, but I can't
seem to find it.

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 11:39 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] elizabethan sweetbag

Hi,
Thoaght i aught to tell you about the 51 issue of Australia Embroidery 
Magazine "Inspirations" has the most stunning embroidered elizabethan 
sweetbag, with strawberries in bloom and with fruits as well as Heartsease 
flowers.
It is so beautifull, and those of you who might want it, could order it from
http://www.countrybumpkin.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=433808

Bjarne whose fingers really want to make...........



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Status: RO


I  was going to ask if it might already be on a webpage, but this would be 
wonderful to have access to...

Laurie

if you are willing to share I
>could put it up on a webpage.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Sg
>
I sent a file with illustrations to the original poster
>privately, since this list doesn't take attachments.  It also helps to use 
>a
>
>sewing clamp as a third hand to keep the fabric taut.
>
>Melusine
>

_________________________________________________________________
Mortgage rates near historic lows. Refinance $200,000 loan for as low as 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolling hems
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Status: RO

Thanks to everyone for their help!

Arlys

On Fri, 27 Apr 2007 16:56:35 -0700 "Carmen Beaudry"
<moreplentyn@earthlink.net> writes:
> > On Fri, 27 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:
> >
> >> Trim off any fraying edges. Take the edge of the fabric between 
> your
> >> thumb and finger and try and roll it into a narrow hem. Curse. 
> Snip
> >> off any frayed bits you caused. Take tiny stitches with the other
> >> hand. Repeat.
> >
> > I'll confess this is how I've always done it. But not long ago -- 
> maybe
> > even on this list? -- I read of a quicker technique that had to do 
> with
> > making a tiny fold and stitching alternately above the raw edge 
> and then
> > into the edge of the fold; take a few stitches, pull, and the hem 
> rolls
> > itself. But I may be missing a step or trick here, and it probably 
> matters
> > exactly how you point the needle. I am half-remembering a diagram 
> which
> > may have been on a webpage or may have been someone's ASCII 
> drawing on the
> > list. Does this ring bells for anyone?
> >
> > --Robin
> 
> Yes it does.  I sent a file with illustrations to the original 
> poster 
> privately, since this list doesn't take attachments.  It also helps 
> to use a 
> sewing clamp as a third hand to keep the fabric taut.
> 
> Melusine 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 20:16:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
> >Countess of Sussex (I think those are short puffs
> >trimmed/lined in white fur, but it's hard to tell
> with
> >the tone on tone B&W image)
>
>http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1570/FrancesSidney.html
> 
> This lady is now considered in all likelihood to be
> Queen Elizabeth 
> l. According to Janet Arnold, she is standing in
> front of a Chair of 
> State. I think there may be an article in the
> catalogue "The Tudor 
> Dynasty" from which I believe your picture comes.


Thank you Suzi! I didn't know that. I got that image
from someplace online, but I will look up the info if
I can find that book. Do you have the name of the
author?

Kimiko



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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolling hems
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 22:39:17 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


On Apr 27, 2007, at 3:14 PM, Dawn wrote:

> Cynthia J Ley wrote:
>
>> Hi all. I need to hand roll a veil hem and have never done it before.
>> Could someone please give me instructions?
>
> Trim off any fraying edges. Take the edge of the fabric between  
> your thumb and finger and try and roll it into a narrow hem. Curse.  
> Snip off any frayed bits you caused. Take tiny stitches with the  
> other hand. Repeat.

In addition, it can help in achieving a small, tight roll if you  
moisten the fingers you're using to roll it.  I've found that it  
works best to roll the edge back and forth a little between my  
fingers to get the best result.

When I was putting together my article on seam types found in  
archaeological textiles <http://www.heatherrosejones.com/ 
archaeologicalsewing/index.html> the rolled hems I found were sewn  
with an overcast stitch -- where the thread goes around the whole  
rolled part then through the fabric at the edge of the roll.  (This  
is as opposed to something more like a regular hem stitch where  
you're just catching the edge of the roll.)  MoL's "Textiles and  
Clothing" notes that this was used for silk veils in the medieval  
period.  I also found mentions of it on linen, but the specific  
examples were from pharaonic textiles.

Heather
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas
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Status: RO

At 04:16 28/04/2007, you wrote:

>--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
> > >Countess of Sussex (I think those are short puffs
> > >trimmed/lined in white fur, but it's hard to tell
> > with
> > >the tone on tone B&W image)
> >
> >http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1570/FrancesSidney.html
> >
> > This lady is now considered in all likelihood to be
> > Queen Elizabeth
> > l. According to Janet Arnold, she is standing in
> > front of a Chair of
> > State. I think there may be an article in the
> > catalogue "The Tudor
> > Dynasty" from which I believe your picture comes.
>
>
>Thank you Suzi! I didn't know that. I got that image
>from someplace online, but I will look up the info if
>I can find that book. Do you have the name of the
>author?
>
>Kimiko

I have it somewhere, but the workroom is in dire need of a clearout, 
so it might take a day or two to find. Give me a nudge if I don't 
produce it soon.

Suzi

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From: Aylwen & John Garden <garden@netspeed.com.au>
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Status: RO

Dear All

Thanks for your help with my pattern questions. I have decided to make a
loose gown out of my mid-green cotton velvet and an open gown out of a
brocade. I'm trying to use up my cupboard of fabrics. I would like to copy a
sleeve at http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/sleeve.jpg  for the loose gown.

Any ideas how this one might have been constructed?

Many thanks

Aylwen
http://www.bordonia.org 


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Subject: [h-cost] Paisley in Regency dresses
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Hi everyone, I was discussing the latest ITV adaptation of Jane Austen's 
Persuasion with a friend in the UK and she mentioned a 'coat' with an all 
over paisley print and asked me if it was period to have a an all over 
paisley print like that rather than just as trim. I know I've seen paisley 
designs used as embroidered decoration on at least one extant dress but I'm 
not sure about the all over paisley design. I thought I had seen a photo of 
an extant dress that had a small paisley print all over the fabric but I 
couldn't find it when I went through my files, can anybody else answer 
definitively whether paisley as an all over design was used in a Regency 
dress.
thanks,
Elizabeth 





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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Apr 28 08:42:14 2007
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BAY133-DAV8409E1ECFB0085845271ED24E0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan sweetbag-stumpwork
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Status: RO

Hi Saragrace.
Oh yes i have this book, one of my favourites. Others i would warmly 
recomend would be Helan Pierce's books about raised embroidery.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 2:24 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] elizabethan sweetbag-stumpwork


> Bjarne, have you ever tried stumpwork?  I have a wonderful book on it
> http://tinyurl.com/3x42t6 and though I "stink" at embroidery, I've even
> managed to make some pretty cool stuff.
> Even if you never made any of the things in this book, it is wonderful eye
> candy.  She - Jane Nichols - has a website with kits and stuff, but I 
> can't
> seem to find it.
>
> Sg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 11:39 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] elizabethan sweetbag
>
> Hi,
> Thoaght i aught to tell you about the 51 issue of Australia Embroidery
> Magazine "Inspirations" has the most stunning embroidered elizabethan
> sweetbag, with strawberries in bloom and with fruits as well as Heartsease
> flowers.
> It is so beautifull, and those of you who might want it, could order it 
> from
> http://www.countrybumpkin.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=433808
>
> Bjarne whose fingers really want to make...........
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Paisley in Regency dresses
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/28/2007 7:56:57 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ewalpole@tpg.com.au writes:

can  anybody else answer 
definitively whether paisley as an all over design was  used in a Regency 
dress.



I saw a dress in the Metropolitan Museum several years ago that had a very  
small warp-dyed paisley design.  Shawl-like borders were also used,  probably 
more frequently.
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Paisley in Regency dresses
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In a message dated 4/28/2007 8:40:56 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

can  anybody else answer 
definitively whether paisley as an  all over design was  used in a Regency 
dress.



I saw a  dress in the Metropolitan Museum several years ago that had a very   
small warp-dyed paisley design.  Shawl-like borders were also  used,  
probably 
more frequently.



***************************
 
Also, Regency gowns taking less fabric than the old Georgian gowns, one  
could be made from a large shawl or two, or a sari.



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Status: RO

Interesting question! I can't remember seeing an allover paisley print. 
Nancy Bradfield ("Costume in Detail" p. 103) describes a "blue silk and 
wool dress, made from a shawl, richly woven border in floral cone 
kashmir pattern..." I have another fashion plate image somewhere showing 
this type of "made from a shawl" gown. In that same book she says 
"Kashmir shawls became fashionable in England c. 1777 some designs at 
first being copied in turn by Edinburgh, Norwich, and finally by Paisley 
weavers. . . The Kashmir-designed shawl with plain field and borders of 
large floaral cones was most popular in the first 20 years of the 19th 
century." (p. 115) An 1810 plate from Costume Parisien shows a wool gown 
with a "cone" border and allover small pattern that looks. more floral 
than paisley. (http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/day-plates/1810-day.jpg) 
It doesn't look like it was made from a shawl but has the same idea: the 
'paisley' looking bit is along the broder.

Of course, this doesn't answer your question! Hmmm...I've started 
looking through the extant garments linked at Demode: 
http://www.demodecouture.com/realvict/1800s.html
No luck yet but you might want to take a look.

- Hope



Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> Hi everyone, I was discussing the latest ITV adaptation of Jane 
> Austen's Persuasion with a friend in the UK and she mentioned a 'coat' 
> with an all over paisley print and asked me if it was period to have a 
> an all over paisley print like that rather than just as trim.
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Paisley in Regency dresses
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/28/2007 11:49:41 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:

a "blue  silk and 
wool dress, made from a shawl, richly woven border in floral cone  
kashmir pattern..." I have another fashion plate image somewhere showing  
this type of "made from a shawl" gown.


Again, this doesn't answer your question, either, but in Washington in  
January, 1816, Mary Boardman Crowninshield described Mrs. Henry Clay in "a white  
merino dress with a deep border and a shawl to match" and Mrs. Brown, wife of  
Gen. Jacob Brown, in "an orange dress of the same kind."  I may be way off  
base, but I have always assumed that these dresses had paisley borders--but  
probably woven or embroidered.  
 
The dress I saw at the Met was in the Fashion in the Age of Ingres exhibit  
several years ago, and there was never a publication to go with that, so I 
can't  point you to a picture.  My best memory is that it was in shades of green,  
and the little butahs, or paisley thingies, were printed in a stripe  
pattern--may even have been in between woven stripes--and were less than an inch  in 
size.  
 
AnnWass



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas
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Status: RO

I just love the embroidery on the sleaves with the yellow buttercups, they 
seem to me to be raised stumpwork?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 5:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas


>
> --- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>> >Countess of Sussex (I think those are short puffs
>> >trimmed/lined in white fur, but it's hard to tell
>> with
>> >the tone on tone B&W image)
>>
>>http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1570/FrancesSidney.html
>>
>> This lady is now considered in all likelihood to be
>> Queen Elizabeth
>> l. According to Janet Arnold, she is standing in
>> front of a Chair of
>> State. I think there may be an article in the
>> catalogue "The Tudor
>> Dynasty" from which I believe your picture comes.
>
>
> Thank you Suzi! I didn't know that. I got that image
> from someplace online, but I will look up the info if
> I can find that book. Do you have the name of the
> author?
>
> Kimiko
>
>
>
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>I have it somewhere, but the workroom is in dire need of a clearout, 
>Suzi

I can't possibly imagine that <evil snark>
I would NEVER let my workroom get into that state (tongue firmly in cheek)
Anne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas
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Status: RO

Bjarne,

Do you mean the small gold things all over the gown and kirtle?  I  
think that these are metal quatrefoils with a central stone, not  
stumpwork flowers.  You can see similar items on the upper sleeves of  
this lady
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady50.jpg

a slightly fancier version down the bodices of loose gown and kirtle  
of this lady
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady33.jpg

little ones all over the partlet here
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElizabethAustria.jpg

and larger ones with square red or black centers on Elizabeth's  
sleeves, shoulder rolls, guards, and fan handle.
http://tudorhistory.org/elizabeth/elizahever.jpg

Here's a closeup of a replica of a simple version with a square center
http://www.pewterreplicas.com/detail.asp?id=158&selcurrencies=GBP

Cheers,
Melanie Schuessler

On Apr 28, 2007, at 3:37 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> I just love the embroidery on the sleaves with the yellow  
> buttercups, they seem to me to be raised stumpwork?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kimiko Small"  
> <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 5:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas
>
>
>>
>> --- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>>> >Countess of Sussex (I think those are short puffs
>>> >trimmed/lined in white fur, but it's hard to tell
>>> with
>>> >the tone on tone B&W image)
>>>
>>> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1570/ 
>>> FrancesSidney.html

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Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 09:07:58 -0700
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Status: RO


Melanie,

What are the diaphanous....things....covering her lower sleeves?  Looks like 
the artist was going for a soap bubble effect or something...

Laurie

>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady50.jpg
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas
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Status: RO

At 17:07 29/04/2007, you wrote:

>Melanie,
>
>What are the diaphanous....things....covering her lower 
>sleeves?  Looks like the artist was going for a soap bubble effect 
>or something...
>
>Laurie
>
>>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady50.jpg


They are probably cypress lawn oversleeves, sometimes seen on 
portraits of  this period.

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas
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Status: RO

Oh bother! Can't remember the exact name of the stuff right now. It was a
fine gauzy stuff that was either pinned or possibly sewn on as an
oversleeve (I'm guessing pinned was more likely). One theory is that it
may have been put on to protect the handwork on the sleeves, but it's
just a theory....

Neat site!

Arlys

On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 09:07:58 -0700 "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
writes:
> 
> Melanie,
> 
> What are the diaphanous....things....covering her lower sleeves?  
> Looks like 
> the artist was going for a soap bubble effect or something...
> 
> Laurie
> 
> >http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady50.jpg
> >
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
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Status: RO

Dear Melanie,
No thot those, what i ment was this:
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/MildredCooke1562.html
To me it looks really like embroidery, you can even se that there is used 
deeper shades of silk in the center of the flowers, like thread painting.
Its the yellow flowers in the centers of blackwork embroidery on her sleaves 
and on her "chemise"

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melanie Schuessler" <melanie@faucet.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas


> Bjarne,
>
> Do you mean the small gold things all over the gown and kirtle?  I  think 
> that these are metal quatrefoils with a central stone, not  stumpwork 
> flowers.  You can see similar items on the upper sleeves of  this lady
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady50.jpg
>
> a slightly fancier version down the bodices of loose gown and kirtle  of 
> this lady
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady33.jpg
>
> little ones all over the partlet here
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElizabethAustria.jpg
>
> and larger ones with square red or black centers on Elizabeth's  sleeves, 
> shoulder rolls, guards, and fan handle.
> http://tudorhistory.org/elizabeth/elizahever.jpg
>
> Here's a closeup of a replica of a simple version with a square center
> http://www.pewterreplicas.com/detail.asp?id=158&selcurrencies=GBP
>
> Cheers,
> Melanie Schuessler
>
> On Apr 28, 2007, at 3:37 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> I just love the embroidery on the sleaves with the yellow  buttercups, 
>> they seem to me to be raised stumpwork?
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kimiko Small" 
>> <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 5:16 AM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas
>>
>>
>>>
>>> --- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>>>> >Countess of Sussex (I think those are short puffs
>>>> >trimmed/lined in white fur, but it's hard to tell
>>>> with
>>>> >the tone on tone B&W image)
>>>>
>>>> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1570/ 
>>>> FrancesSidney.html
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Puffed Sleeve on Elizabethan Loose Gown
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 16:08:19 -0700
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Status: RO

I'd approach it by making a long strip of fabric, then put braid on it.  Cut
that into strips and "weave" it into a rectangle.  Place your pattern piece
on it at a 45 degree angle to the "weave.  I'd do a mockup first to see how
much height you need to get the puff.  I think you can see how the weave is
pushed together at the cuff to give it volume.

Sg

Let us know how it turns out!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Aylwen & John Garden
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 12:48 AM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Puffed Sleeve on Elizabethan Loose Gown

Dear All

Thanks for your help with my pattern questions. I have decided to make a
loose gown out of my mid-green cotton velvet and an open gown out of a
brocade. I'm trying to use up my cupboard of fabrics. I would like to copy a
sleeve at http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/sleeve.jpg  for the loose gown.

Any ideas how this one might have been constructed?

Many thanks

Aylwen
http://www.bordonia.org 


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <C259396A.FEBC%garden@netspeed.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Puffed Sleeve on Elizabethan Loose Gown
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 19:24:53 -0500
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Status: RO

OH!

I remember years ago I made a doublet with this kind of weaving of strips of 
fabric with.

What I did was cut out the doublet pieces and then on Russian tulle laid the 
strips on it and then hand tacked them together.

You can do the same thing. Cut out a paper pattern piece of the sleeve head 
and then lay the strips on it to see how it will go.

Good luck, post pictures!

Chiara


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aylwen & John Garden" <garden@netspeed.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 2:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Puffed Sleeve on Elizabethan Loose Gown


> Dear All
>
> Thanks for your help with my pattern questions. I have decided to make a
> loose gown out of my mid-green cotton velvet and an open gown out of a
> brocade. I'm trying to use up my cupboard of fabrics. I would like to copy 
> a
> sleeve at http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/sleeve.jpg  for the loose 
> gown.
>
> Any ideas how this one might have been constructed?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Aylwen
> http://www.bordonia.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas
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Status: RO

I agree. The gold flowers on her sleeve and partlet look to be embroidered.
perhaps raised or padded embroidery/stumpwork.
De

-----Original Message-----
Dear Melanie,
No thot those, what i ment was this:
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/MildredCooke1562.html
To me it looks really like embroidery, you can even se that there is used
deeper shades of silk in the center of the flowers, like thread painting.
Its the yellow flowers in the centers of blackwork embroidery on her sleaves
and on her "chemise"

Bjarne


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Subject: [h-cost] Once last time:  The Tudors: Royal Stylemakers
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Status: RO

Well, the Tudor Royal Stylemaker special is now out all over the place.
It's showing on Showtime a lot over the next couple of week.  It's on
Showtime on Demand.  It's also on their website, but there it's very small
and dark so can't appreciate the costumes really well.

Get the full schedule of showings at www.sho.com and follow the links for
style.   (Warning, avoid clicking on the fashion trends after watching the
main show... it's painful... <G> but that's by another company and they've
really stretched the fashions of the Tudors beyond the breaking point.)

Even if you're not into modern fashion, the section that interviews the
costume designer is quite nice.  She talks about how she re-envisions the
period and some of her inspirations.

If you want to check out your friends' pictures and read the credits, tape
it... they go fast.

-Cat-

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 08:16:56 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


On Apr 29, 2007, at 12:15 PM, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> At 17:07 29/04/2007, you wrote:
>
>> Melanie,
>>
>> What are the diaphanous....things....covering her lower sleeves?   
>> Looks like the artist was going for a soap bubble effect or  
>> something...
>>
>> Laurie
>>
>>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady50.jpg
>
>
> They are probably cypress lawn oversleeves, sometimes seen on  
> portraits of  this period.
>
> Suzi
>

I agree.  This representation is unusually extreme in its separation  
of sleeve and oversleeve--most of the time, there's a fine layer  
(sometimes with a faint pattern) just above the surface of the  
sleeve, and it's almost impossible to see.

Melanie
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Subject: [h-cost] What  Q. Marie A. wore to the Revolution
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Status: RO

I have been reading  "What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution" and have 
been captivated by the author's thesis re the effects of 'fashion/anti 
fashion' had in many aspects of 18th Century France. "Buy French" is an 
early theme and her arrival as the Dauphine-ellect plays out much as 
featured in the most recent film...except, it seems that the truth of the 
matter is that Mother Maria Teresa sent her to France complete with an up to 
date trouseau of the latest French fashions that were confiscated by the new 
court.

We remember that MA was criticized for her wonton extravigant use of the 
treasury for her own adornment.  Most of her gowns could only be worn once 
or twice by court tradition and edicts.  The silk trade dominated the core 
of the rag trade.  When she changed the styles to a more countrified look, 
she was blamed again for causing a depression in the fashion related trades. 
She really rocks the boat when she begins to have her wardrobe repaired and 
re-embellished instead of buying new!

Lots of descriptions of clothing and hairstyles and details of her 
connections with Bertin and the royal hairdresser. Illustrations are few but 
taken from portraiture and cartoons; the written word carries the day.

I am fascinated with this new conception of a "Petticoat Rebellion"

Anyone on the list who might have cracked this book? 

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Status: RO

>I sent a file with illustrations to the original poster
>privately, since this list doesn't take attachments.  
>It also helps to use a >sewing clamp as a third 
>hand to keep the fabric taut.
>
>Melusine
>

May I also request a copy?

This thread came up at a very good time for me, I already have the
cursing part down :).

Thanks,
Catherine
ckinsey@kumc.edu
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Status: RO

Yes
:-)
I love this book, and i think the author made a terrific job.

Also a danish princess who was going to make peace between Sweden and 
Denmark had a very expensive trouseau. Her things were send by more than 50 
carriages of clothing, furniture and other things, she could not live 
without, including her weddingdress. The new about this weddingdress was 
that it actually was not made in Paris as thoaght, but was made by a danish 
taylor. They recently found the bill.
One of my theories about how bad it went, is that if she had not excluded 
all the important nobility families from her own petite court at Trianon, it 
would not have went as badly as it did. She had build up an image, being the 
queen of fashion, also adored and looked up to by all the nobility families, 
when she turned her back to them, they started to hate her. That was a big 
mistake..........
And it is true that she tryed to be a good girl and not spend so much money 
on fashion, but she forgot all her duties as a queen, abandoned the whole 
machinery, with no thoaghts about how dangerous this was.

I would have given my right arm, to see the shop in Paris with Rose Bertins 
dresses..............................

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 2:45 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What Q. Marie A. wore to the Revolution


>I have been reading  "What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution" and 
>have been captivated by the author's thesis re the effects of 'fashion/anti 
>fashion' had in many aspects of 18th Century France. "Buy French" is an 
>early theme and her arrival as the Dauphine-ellect plays out much as 
>featured in the most recent film...except, it seems that the truth of the 
>matter is that Mother Maria Teresa sent her to France complete with an up 
>to date trouseau of the latest French fashions that were confiscated by the 
>new court.
>
> We remember that MA was criticized for her wonton extravigant use of the 
> treasury for her own adornment.  Most of her gowns could only be worn once 
> or twice by court tradition and edicts.  The silk trade dominated the core 
> of the rag trade.  When she changed the styles to a more countrified look, 
> she was blamed again for causing a depression in the fashion related 
> trades. She really rocks the boat when she begins to have her wardrobe 
> repaired and re-embellished instead of buying new!
>
> Lots of descriptions of clothing and hairstyles and details of her 
> connections with Bertin and the royal hairdresser. Illustrations are few 
> but taken from portraiture and cartoons; the written word carries the day.
>
> I am fascinated with this new conception of a "Petticoat Rebellion"
>
> Anyone on the list who might have cracked this book?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Status: RO

I've not read this one, but just finished reading "The Rose of Martinique"
http://tinyurl.com/2ppcjp, a biography of Josephine Bonaparte.  There are
some interesting anecdotal notes about fashion through the revolution into
the directorial period, empire etc.  I was not aware until I had read this
that Josephine lived through and survived the revolution (she was in jail
for almost for months).  It talks about M.A. and Josephine's impact on
fashion and some of the "buy French" in that time. Apparently Napoleon would
have little fits if he knew J. and her daughter were wearing muslin.  He
would tear their dresses while on them!

What a creep!

Sg

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What  Q. Marie A. wore to the Revolution
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/30/2007 11:09:30 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wickedfrau@msn.com writes:

I was  not aware until I had read this
that Josephine lived through and survived  the revolution 


And her first husband went to the guillotine.
 
Josephine was an EXTREME clothes horse!  Always over-spending her  clothing 
budget.  But she bought all kinds of things--furniture, artworks,  plants, . . .
 
The inventory taken after she died was published, and I just copied out the  
clothing pages.
 
Look for Serge Grandjean, "Inventaire apres deces de l"imperatrice  Josephine 
a Malmaison," published by the French cultural affairs ministry.
 
Ann Wass



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Status: RO

Sorry for the late reply myself, but.....

I'm doing some silk organza scarves (not historic, before anyone panics [1]). The fabric is 60" wide, so the hand rolled hem is very long - and I hate hand-sewing with a red passion, so I'm always trying to figure out how to make it easier and faster. And I hit on something this weekend. As long as the finished part is longer than my forearm, I can pin the edge under my right elbow (I'm right-handed) on a table, and hold the unfinished part of the hem in my left hand, rolling the hem toward me with the left hand's fingers. This keeps the hem taut, while rolling at the same time. I can then use my right hand to stitch what the left hand is preparing. Make sure that the table-chair setup puts your elbow no lower than normal height, or you'll be bending your back, which is Not Good. This goes fast! 

Hand-sewing really is the best a lot of the time. I was applying a beaded ribbon trim to a belt recently, and tried to do it three times with the machine, before I gave up. And there's no other way to finish the interior seams of a GFD. The hand-sewing is just the only way for a lot of things like this. (I call it my Laurel's Object Lesson.) 

BTW - don't know if anyone mentioned it, but using silk thread on a silk organza really works best, and you don't have problems with the thread sawing through delicate organza fibers. The only problem I've found is that the available colors of silk thread are somewhat limited.

Melanie / Lijsbet

[1] I was working on Harry Potter costumes at an SCA business meeting once. People were worried! ;-)

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Catherine Kinsey" <Ckinsey@kumc.edu>
> >I sent a file with illustrations to the original poster
> >privately, since this list doesn't take attachments.  
> >It also helps to use a >sewing clamp as a third 
> >hand to keep the fabric taut.
> >
> >Melusine
> >
> 
> May I also request a copy?
> 
> This thread came up at a very good time for me, I already have the
> cursing part down :).
> 
> Thanks,
> Catherine
> ckinsey@kumc.edu
> _______________________________________________
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Status: RO

 
 
Hello. Rank amateur that I am, I need some advice about selecting  fabric for 
my Tudor wardrobe (1530-1560ish) from you textile experts.  FashionFabrics 
has silk twill on sale and I was wondering if it would be  appropriate for my 
period, and if so, what for? 
 
In the near future I'm planning to make a loose gown (with the purpose of  
keeping me warm at our annual February event) and a boned kirtle, or whatever I  
figure out is appropriate for this period. Sometime soon I hope to make a 
fitted  French-style gown like this one: 
_http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Margot_001.jpg_ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Margot_001.jpg)  and/or  an 
English-style court gown (like this one, but not specifically this one:  
_http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:JaneSeymour.jpg_ 
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:JaneSeymour.jpg) ). 
 
Would silk twill have been used for any of these garments? I'm not  
necessarily going for super-upper class with the loose gown, by the way.  I was 
thinking of using some cotton velvet I already have for the  loose gown; would that 
be warmer than the silk twill, or would it all depend on  what I lined it with?
 
Tea Rose
 





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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 08:14:34 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO


On Apr 29, 2007, at 3:22 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Dear Melanie,
> No thot those, what i ment was this:
> http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1560/ 
> MildredCooke1562.html
> To me it looks really like embroidery, you can even se that there  
> is used deeper shades of silk in the center of the flowers, like  
> thread painting.
> Its the yellow flowers in the centers of blackwork embroidery on  
> her sleaves and on her "chemise"
>

Oh!  Different portrait entirely.  Hmmm--I have to say I can't really  
tell on these.  Given their location, I'd say it's more likely  
they're embroidered rather than attached metal items, yes, but what  
sort of embroidery, I can't see well enough to have an informed opinion.

Melanie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolled hems
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Status: RO

> Sorry for the late reply myself, but.....
>
> I'm doing some silk organza scarves (not historic, before anyone panics 
> [1]). The fabric is 60" wide, so the hand rolled hem is very long - and I 
> hate hand-sewing with a red passion, so I'm always trying to figure out 
> how to make it easier and faster. And I hit on something this weekend. As 
> long as the finished part is longer than my forearm, I can pin the edge 
> under my right elbow (I'm right-handed) on a table, and hold the 
> unfinished part of the hem in my left hand, rolling the hem toward me with 
> the left hand's fingers. This keeps the hem taut, while rolling at the 
> same time. I can then use my right hand to stitch what the left hand is 
> preparing. Make sure that the table-chair setup puts your elbow no lower 
> than normal height, or you'll be bending your back, which is Not Good. 
> This goes fast!
(snip)
 Melanie / Lijsbet

This is pretty much how a sewing clamp/bird works.  It makes pretty much all 
hand sewing Much faster.  I have two reproduction sewing birds.  One stays 
clamped next to my sewing machine for handwork in the sewing room, the other 
travels with me, since I found out I can clamp it to the edge of my travel 
sewing box.  I do about 1/3 of my sewing by hand, so this has really speeded 
things up for m.

Melusine 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What  Q. Marie A. wore to the Revolution
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 14:32:23 -0400
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Status: RO

Is there such a place? Wow, so would I!!

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What Q. Marie A. wore to the Revolution


> Yes
> :-)
> I love this book, and i think the author made a terrific job.
>
> Also a danish princess who was going to make peace between Sweden and 
> Denmark had a very expensive trouseau. Her things were send by more than 
> 50 carriages of clothing, furniture and other things, she could not live 
> without, including her weddingdress. The new about this weddingdress was 
> that it actually was not made in Paris as thoaght, but was made by a 
> danish taylor. They recently found the bill.
> One of my theories about how bad it went, is that if she had not excluded 
> all the important nobility families from her own petite court at Trianon, 
> it would not have went as badly as it did. She had build up an image, 
> being the queen of fashion, also adored and looked up to by all the 
> nobility families, when she turned her back to them, they started to hate 
> her. That was a big mistake..........
> And it is true that she tryed to be a good girl and not spend so much 
> money on fashion, but she forgot all her duties as a queen, abandoned the 
> whole machinery, with no thoaghts about how dangerous this was.
>
> I would have given my right arm, to see the shop in Paris with Rose 
> Bertins dresses..............................
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 2:45 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] What Q. Marie A. wore to the Revolution
>
>
>>I have been reading  "What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution" and 
>>have been captivated by the author's thesis re the effects of 
>>'fashion/anti fashion' had in many aspects of 18th Century France. "Buy 
>>French" is an early theme and her arrival as the Dauphine-ellect plays out 
>>much as featured in the most recent film...except, it seems that the truth 
>>of the matter is that Mother Maria Teresa sent her to France complete with 
>>an up to date trouseau of the latest French fashions that were confiscated 
>>by the new court.
>>
>> We remember that MA was criticized for her wonton extravigant use of the 
>> treasury for her own adornment.  Most of her gowns could only be worn 
>> once or twice by court tradition and edicts.  The silk trade dominated 
>> the core of the rag trade.  When she changed the styles to a more 
>> countrified look, she was blamed again for causing a depression in the 
>> fashion related trades. She really rocks the boat when she begins to have 
>> her wardrobe repaired and re-embellished instead of buying new!
>>
>> Lots of descriptions of clothing and hairstyles and details of her 
>> connections with Bertin and the royal hairdresser. Illustrations are few 
>> but taken from portraiture and cartoons; the written word carries the 
>> day.
>>
>> I am fascinated with this new conception of a "Petticoat Rebellion"
>>
>> Anyone on the list who might have cracked this book?
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200704301112188.SM04844@mxgw1.washjeff.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What  Q. Marie A. wore to the Revolution
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 14:34:35 -0400
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Status: RO

Ah, this is a 'Josephine" I had not yet come across; must add it to my 
summer reading list.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:08 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What Q. Marie A. wore to the Revolution


> I've not read this one, but just finished reading "The Rose of Martinique"
> http://tinyurl.com/2ppcjp, a biography of Josephine Bonaparte.  There are
> some interesting anecdotal notes about fashion through the revolution into
> the directorial period, empire etc.  I was not aware until I had read this
> that Josephine lived through and survived the revolution (she was in jail
> for almost for months).  It talks about M.A. and Josephine's impact on
> fashion and some of the "buy French" in that time. Apparently Napoleon 
> would
> have little fits if he knew J. and her daughter were wearing muslin.  He
> would tear their dresses while on them!
>
> What a creep!
>
> Sg
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <043020071546.19292.46360F4B0001B10200004B5C2200735834969B0A020A9D070A@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolled hems
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Status: RO

I use a nice hard square pillow; have used the pin method, but also picked 
up a modern (and cheap) Third hand gadget that I pin to one corner and have 
lots of room to manipulate the piece at hand.  This winter, I found a repro 
sewing bird that attaches to a table edge (ie. a wooden tray stand) and do 
such jobs in style.  One handsewing tool I would not be without!

kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eirenetz@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolled hems


> Sorry for the late reply myself, but.....
>
> I'm doing some silk organza scarves (not historic, before anyone panics 
> [1]). The fabric is 60" wide, so the hand rolled hem is very long - and I 
> hate hand-sewing with a red passion, so I'm always trying to figure out 
> how to make it easier and faster. And I hit on something this weekend. As 
> long as the finished part is longer than my forearm, I can pin the edge 
> under my right elbow (I'm right-handed) on a table, and hold the 
> unfinished part of the hem in my left hand, rolling the hem toward me with 
> the left hand's fingers. This keeps the hem taut, while rolling at the 
> same time. I can then use my right hand to stitch what the left hand is 
> preparing. Make sure that the table-chair setup puts your elbow no lower 
> than normal height, or you'll be bending your back, which is Not Good. 
> This goes fast!
>
> Hand-sewing really is the best a lot of the time. I was applying a beaded 
> ribbon trim to a belt recently, and tried to do it three times with the 
> machine, before I gave up. And there's no other way to finish the interior 
> seams of a GFD. The hand-sewing is just the only way for a lot of things 
> like this. (I call it my Laurel's Object Lesson.)
>
> BTW - don't know if anyone mentioned it, but using silk thread on a silk 
> organza really works best, and you don't have problems with the thread 
> sawing through delicate organza fibers. The only problem I've found is 
> that the available colors of silk thread are somewhat limited.
>
> Melanie / Lijsbet
>
> [1] I was working on Harry Potter costumes at an SCA business meeting 
> once. People were worried! ;-)
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Catherine Kinsey" <Ckinsey@kumc.edu>
>> >I sent a file with illustrations to the original poster
>> >privately, since this list doesn't take attachments.
>> >It also helps to use a >sewing clamp as a third
>> >hand to keep the fabric taut.
>> >
>> >Melusine
>> >
>>
>> May I also request a copy?
>>
>> This thread came up at a very good time for me, I already have the
>> cursing part down :).
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Catherine
>> ckinsey@kumc.edu
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolled hems
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Status: RO

How right you are!

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolled hems


>> Sorry for the late reply myself, but.....
>>
>> I'm doing some silk organza scarves (not historic, before anyone panics 
>> [1]). The fabric is 60" wide, so the hand rolled hem is very long - and I 
>> hate hand-sewing with a red passion, so I'm always trying to figure out 
>> how to make it easier and faster. And I hit on something this weekend. As 
>> long as the finished part is longer than my forearm, I can pin the edge 
>> under my right elbow (I'm right-handed) on a table, and hold the 
>> unfinished part of the hem in my left hand, rolling the hem toward me 
>> with the left hand's fingers. This keeps the hem taut, while rolling at 
>> the same time. I can then use my right hand to stitch what the left hand 
>> is preparing. Make sure that the table-chair setup puts your elbow no 
>> lower than normal height, or you'll be bending your back, which is Not 
>> Good. This goes fast!
> (snip)
> Melanie / Lijsbet
>
> This is pretty much how a sewing clamp/bird works.  It makes pretty much 
> all hand sewing Much faster.  I have two reproduction sewing birds.  One 
> stays clamped next to my sewing machine for handwork in the sewing room, 
> the other travels with me, since I found out I can clamp it to the edge of 
> my travel sewing box.  I do about 1/3 of my sewing by hand, so this has 
> really speeded things up for m.
>
> Melusine
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: hand rolled hems
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Status: RO

<snip>
> how to make it easier and faster. And I hit on something this
weekend. As 
> long as the finished part is longer than my forearm, I can pin the
edge 
> under my right elbow (I'm right-handed) on a table, and hold the 
> unfinished part of the hem in my left hand, rolling the hem toward me
with 
> the left hand's fingers. This keeps the hem taut, while rolling at
the 
> same time. I can then use my right hand to stitch what the left hand
is 
> preparing. Make sure that the table-chair setup puts your elbow no
lower 
> than normal height, or you'll be bending your back, which is Not
Good. 
> This goes fast!
(snip)
 Melanie / Lijsbet

This is pretty much how a sewing clamp/bird works.  It makes pretty
much all 
hand sewing Much faster.  I have two reproduction sewing birds.  One
stays 
clamped next to my sewing machine for handwork in the sewing room, the
other 
travels with me, since I found out I can clamp it to the edge of my
travel 
sewing box.  I do about 1/3 of my sewing by hand, so this has really
speeded 
things up for m.

Melusine 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

I've seen those, and also wondered about the heavy/stiff pillows it
looks like stitchers are using in some of the 17/18C paintings.  A
couple of examples:
http://www.arthistory.cc/auth/velazquez/index.htm  scroll down to 'The
Needlewoman'

 "Interior with a Mother" by Willem van Mieris  and "The Letter Writer
Surprised" by Gabriel Metsu (both are on the http://www.wga.hu site ).  


Seems to be a very similar style of tall basket also used at this time
for mending and/or sewing supplies.

One of those pillows might work pretty well for me, it would be
adjustable.  When I try and pin what I am working on to the chair that
is, naturally, the time the cat wants a lap :).

Catherine


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Status: RO

If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased.
I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise dress i am 
going to make. But desided i have not yeat!
On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the edge. On 
the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a bigger gold trim.
I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at all 
like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. Is the gold 
trim two much?
What do you think?

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
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Status: RO

At 20:01 30/04/2007, you wrote:
>If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased.
>I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise 
>dress i am going to make. But desided i have not yeat!
>On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the 
>edge. On the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a 
>bigger gold trim.
>I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not 
>at all like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the 
>silk. Is the gold trim two much?
>What do you think?
>
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm
>
>Bjarne


My thoughts are that left hand one, with the tiny trim, is more 
"authentic" looking, as many of the decorative trims are as precise 
as that one.

Suzi 

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Status: RO

I really apreciates your thoaghts, many thanks.
Its just because i dont think my boxpleating is looking the way i want it to 
look.
The look i want is this:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie1.htm
And maybe i should not stitch down the pleats flat in each side, but let 
some of the pleats float more....... its ever so difficult.
And maybe also dont make the pleating finnished, but let it be build up bits 
by bits on the dress itself
How would you do the job?

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........


> At 20:01 30/04/2007, you wrote:
>>If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased.
>>I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise dress i 
>>am going to make. But desided i have not yeat!
>>On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the edge. 
>>On the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a bigger gold trim.
>>I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at all 
>>like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. Is the 
>>gold trim two much?
>>What do you think?
>>
>>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm
>>
>>Bjarne
>
>
> My thoughts are that left hand one, with the tiny trim, is more 
> "authentic" looking, as many of the decorative trims are as precise as 
> that one.
>
> Suzi
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 15:28:21 -0400
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Status: RO

I like the ruching but agree the smaller gold trim is better. Why not
put the small trim with the ruching? 

Kate
609-570-3584
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 3:20 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........

I really apreciates your thoaghts, many thanks.
Its just because i dont think my boxpleating is looking the way i want
it to 
look.
The look i want is this:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie1.htm
And maybe i should not stitch down the pleats flat in each side, but let

some of the pleats float more....... its ever so difficult.
And maybe also dont make the pleating finnished, but let it be build up
bits 
by bits on the dress itself
How would you do the job?

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........


> At 20:01 30/04/2007, you wrote:
>>If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased.
>>I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise
dress i 
>>am going to make. But desided i have not yeat!
>>On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the
edge. 
>>On the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a bigger gold
trim.
>>I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at
all 
>>like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. Is
the 
>>gold trim two much?
>>What do you think?
>>
>>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm
>>
>>Bjarne
>
>
> My thoughts are that left hand one, with the tiny trim, is more 
> "authentic" looking, as many of the decorative trims are as precise as

> that one.
>
> Suzi
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 15:58:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

     If you want to do it gathered, then I would not use the wide gold
trim.  It weighs down the look of it.

     Also do you have sources for the ruching going down the front center
vertically?  Often the emphasis is on the width of the bust, so the
horizontal ruching works, but the vertical takes away from that.

     Some people use it as a cheat in case the front opening gaps, but I
know you can fit well enough for that not to happen.

     I think there is that treatment on a jacket, but I don't recall
seeing it on a formal gown.  You already have the ruching on the
sides, which looks good.

     -Carol


> I really apreciates your thoaghts, many thanks.
> Its just because i dont think my boxpleating is looking the way i want it
> to look.
> The look i want is this:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie1.htm
> And maybe i should not stitch down the pleats flat in each side, but let
> some of the pleats float more....... its ever so difficult.
> And maybe also dont make the pleating finnished, but let it be build up
> bits by bits on the dress itself
> How would you do the job?
>
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 9:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
>
>
>> At 20:01 30/04/2007, you wrote:
>>>If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased.
>>>I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise dress
>>> i
>>>am going to make. But desided i have not yeat!
>>>On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the edge.
>>>On the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a bigger gold
>>> trim.
>>>I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at
>>> all
>>>like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. Is the
>>>gold trim two much?
>>>What do you think?
>>>
>>>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm
>>>
>>>Bjarne
>>
>>
>> My thoughts are that left hand one, with the tiny trim, is more
>> "authentic" looking, as many of the decorative trims are as precise as
>> that one.
>>
>> Suzi
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Status: RO

I can see your dilemma. The one on the left is conservative and a simplistic
formal. The one on the right is more of what one would see on a ball gown.
Have you considered the box pleating with the wider gold trim?
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/hob_2001.472.htm

I would say it depends on what mood(?)/attitude you want to achieve.

De

-----Original Message-----
If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased.
I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise dress i am
going to make. But desided i have not yeat!
On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the edge. On
the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a bigger gold trim.
I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at all
like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. Is the gold
trim two much?
What do you think?

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm

Bjarne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
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Status: RO

I agree with you about the ruching vs. the pleating.  There's definitely a
lot more color play with the ruching.
Dunno about the gold trim--it might be just right, or it might be too much.
I think it would depend on the overall scale of the gown.  If it's big and
oversized, etc., etc. you could go with the wider trim without a qualm.  But
if it's a more restrained style???
I'm saying this from a purely personal perspective, I should add, since I
really don't have much experience with 18th century clothing.  How does your
gold trim fit into the scale of how things were added to dresses then?
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 1:01 PM
Subject: [h-cost] i cant deside.........


> If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased.
> I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise dress i
am
> going to make. But desided i have not yeat!
> On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the edge.
On
> the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a bigger gold trim.
> I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at all
> like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. Is the
gold
> trim two much?
> What do you think?
>
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm
>
> Bjarne


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Status: RO

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at 
> all like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. Is 
> the gold trim two much?

I think if you sewed the box pleated trim up the center instead of at 
the edges you would get much more interest with it.


Dawn


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Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 15:55:54 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
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Status: RO

At 03:01 PM 4/30/2007, you wrote:
>If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased.
>I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise 
>dress i am going to make. But desided i have not yeat!
>On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the 
>edge. On the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a 
>bigger gold trim.
>I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not 
>at all like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the 
>silk. Is the gold trim two much?
>What do you think?
>
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm
>
>Bjarne

I prefer the one on the right, myself.

Dianne 

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Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 12:58:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolled hems
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

If I were going to (god forbid) roll a hem, I'd get
out the serger. Mine has instructions for a rolled hem
in the user guide.

MaggiRos

--- eirenetz@comcast.net wrote:

> Sorry for the late reply myself, but.....
> 
> I'm doing some silk organza scarves (not historic,
> before anyone panics [1]). The fabric is 60" wide,
> so the hand rolled hem is very long - and I hate
> hand-sewing with a red passion, so I'm always trying
> to figure out how to make it easier and faster. And
> I hit on something this weekend. As long as the
> finished part is longer than my forearm, I can pin
> the edge under my right elbow (I'm right-handed) on
> a table, and hold the unfinished part of the hem in
> my left hand, rolling the hem toward me with the
> left hand's fingers. 
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
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Status: RO

>The look i want is this:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie1.htm
>And maybe i should not stitch down the pleats flat in each side, but let
>some of the pleats float more....... its ever so difficult.
>And maybe also dont make the pleating finnished, but let it be build up bits
>by bits on the dress itself
>How would you do the job?

Wow, what a snappy gown!  I love the exciting color! IT reminds me of
the fire-engine red one in the V&A; the one with the heavy silver
embroidery. Delicious!
Your drawing says to me: ruching, not pleating.  Pleating withthe gold
braid is too hard & stiff a look.  Perhaps fly fringe instead of the
hard shine of the gold braid.  Let me see if I can find some on
line...

http://www.18cnewenglandlife.org/18cnel%20grand/gown_and_petticoat%20page%202.htm
Click on the detail picture at the right for a better closeup.  The
bad news, is that you'll use miles (kilometeres!) of the fly fringe.
Ah, what price beauty!

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Status: RO

Hi,
It is because i dont think i have seen any ruched edges in any 18th century 
dresses. They are all pleated up!
I think the ruched edges you see everywhere in movies, are invented to look 
like a pleated trim, but made on machine...............
But i think its because the box pleating should be made very individually, 
when attaching it to the dress, so that there is a little gap here, a little 
gap there, in the end it wil look like my drawing.
There is no way my costumer can afford me to buy fly fringe, do you know how 
much that  costs?

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........


> >The look i want is this:
>>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie1.htm
>>And maybe i should not stitch down the pleats flat in each side, but let
>>some of the pleats float more....... its ever so difficult.
>>And maybe also dont make the pleating finnished, but let it be build up 
>>bits
>>by bits on the dress itself
>>How would you do the job?
>
> Wow, what a snappy gown!  I love the exciting color! IT reminds me of
> the fire-engine red one in the V&A; the one with the heavy silver
> embroidery. Delicious!
> Your drawing says to me: ruching, not pleating.  Pleating withthe gold
> braid is too hard & stiff a look.  Perhaps fly fringe instead of the
> hard shine of the gold braid.  Let me see if I can find some on
> line...
>
> http://www.18cnewenglandlife.org/18cnel%20grand/gown_and_petticoat%20page%202.htm
> Click on the detail picture at the right for a better closeup.  The
> bad news, is that you'll use miles (kilometeres!) of the fly fringe.
> Ah, what price beauty!
>
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Status: RO

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>
> There is no way my costumer can afford me to buy fly fringe, do you know 
> how much that  costs?
>

How about using eyelash or pigtail yarn as a substitute? There are a 
number of fringed and textured novelty yarns similar to fly fringe, and 
much cheaper.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
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Status: RO

I have been using all sorts of these novelty yarns  for 18th C trim...and I 
think to very good effect.  This was after drooling over the stomachers in 
the Kyoto book. and other illustrations of fancy wear.

Kathleen.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........


> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>>
>> There is no way my costumer can afford me to buy fly fringe, do you know 
>> how much that  costs?
>>
>
> How about using eyelash or pigtail yarn as a substitute? There are a 
> number of fringed and textured novelty yarns similar to fly fringe, and 
> much cheaper.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Cheap substitutes tend to look cheap. Anything that
will be seen up close should look as good as it can
be. In my opinion, of course.

MaggiRos
--- Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:

> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> >
> > There is no way my costumer can afford me to buy
> fly fringe, do you know 
> > how much that  costs?
> >
> 
> How about using eyelash or pigtail yarn as a
> substitute? There are a 
> number of fringed and textured novelty yarns similar
> to fly fringe, and 
> much cheaper.
> 
> 
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
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Status: RO


Your ideas on the pleating I think might match better the look you are going for...give it a try!  I LOVE to see your work!
Gia
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> 

> I really apreciates your thoaghts, many thanks. 
> Its just because i dont think my boxpleating is looking the way i want it to 
> look. 
> The look i want is this: 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie1.htm 
> And maybe i should not stitch down the pleats flat in each side, but let 
> some of the pleats float more....... its ever so difficult. 
> And maybe also dont make the pleating finnished, but let it be build up bits 
> by bits on the dress itself 
> How would you do the job? 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Suzi Clarke" 
> To: "Historical Costume" 
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 9:09 PM 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside......... 
> 
> 
> > At 20:01 30/04/2007, you wrote: 
> >>If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased. 
> >>I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise dress i 
> >>am going to make. But desided i have not yeat! 
> >>On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the edge. 
> >>On the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a bigger gold trim. 
> >>I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at all 
> >>like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. Is the 
> >>gold trim two much? 
> >>What do you think? 
> >> 
> >>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm 
> >> 
> >>Bjarne 
> > 
> > 
> > My thoughts are that left hand one, with the tiny trim, is more 
> > "authentic" looking, as many of the decorative trims are as precise as 
> > that one. 
> > 
> > Suzi 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> > 
> 
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 21:08:14 +0000
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Status: RO

I think the pleated side is prettier, but also think the trim on it is too small.  The rusched side looks good too, but the trim is too big.

Maybe switch trims?  The bigger one on the pleated side and the smaller trim on the rusched side?

I don't know if that'd be period, because I've not studied the period..

Gia
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> 

> If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased. 
> I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise dress i am 
> going to make. But desided i have not yeat! 
> On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the edge. On 
> the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a bigger gold trim. 
> I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at all 
> like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. Is the gold 
> trim two much? 
> What do you think? 
> 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews 
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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Status: RO

Now i have desided :-)
Costume in Detail page 136 gives a very close look for a pleating.
I think it looked wrong on my sampler because i should not stitch down the 
pleats in the sides.
The dress on page 136 has box pleats, wich are spaced with as much plain 
ground as pleating. I tryed to make my pleats like that, and also found out, 
when i looked close to the picture, that the pleats are not sewn down in the 
edges, but they are stitched about 1 cm each side of the centerline.
It makes the world as a difference because now my pleats comes to life and 
are raised in the edges.....................

Thankyou soo much to everybody for your help and suggestions.
Oh and ill use the small gold trim, not the big one, it also looks two much 
like plastic to me..................
Now i am really going to be buisy, the dress must be finished by 11th of 
june..............

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Status: RO

Sewing birds? Anyone have a pic they would like to share? :-)

Arlys

On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 14:42:27 -0400 "LLOYD MITCHELL"
<rmitchell@washjeff.edu> writes:
> How right you are!
> 
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 12:14 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolled hems
> 
> 
> >> Sorry for the late reply myself, but.....
> >>
> >> I'm doing some silk organza scarves (not historic, before anyone 
> panics 
> >> [1]). The fabric is 60" wide, so the hand rolled hem is very long 
> - and I 
> >> hate hand-sewing with a red passion, so I'm always trying to 
> figure out 
> >> how to make it easier and faster. And I hit on something this 
> weekend. As 
> >> long as the finished part is longer than my forearm, I can pin 
> the edge 
> >> under my right elbow (I'm right-handed) on a table, and hold the 
> >> unfinished part of the hem in my left hand, rolling the hem 
> toward me 
> >> with the left hand's fingers. This keeps the hem taut, while 
> rolling at 
> >> the same time. I can then use my right hand to stitch what the 
> left hand 
> >> is preparing. Make sure that the table-chair setup puts your 
> elbow no 
> >> lower than normal height, or you'll be bending your back, which 
> is Not 
> >> Good. This goes fast!
> > (snip)
> > Melanie / Lijsbet
> >
> > This is pretty much how a sewing clamp/bird works.  It makes 
> pretty much 
> > all hand sewing Much faster.  I have two reproduction sewing 
> birds.  One 
> > stays clamped next to my sewing machine for handwork in the sewing 
> room, 
> > the other travels with me, since I found out I can clamp it to the 
> edge of 
> > my travel sewing box.  I do about 1/3 of my sewing by hand, so 
> this has 
> > really speeded things up for m.
> >
> > Melusine
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Status: RO

I did it like this
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/18thcent/18woman/Robealafrancaise/FR2.jpg
I didn't had the fabric to make more pleats but it is a bit more springy.

The problem I have with both options is the gold trim.
On the right it is too small and on the right too gold (kitsch).

Deredere

Dawn wrote:
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at 
>> all like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. 
>> Is the gold trim two much?
>
> I think if you sewed the box pleated trim up the center instead of at 
> the edges you would get much more interest with it.
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolled hems
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Status: RO

At 22:46 30/04/2007, you wrote:
>Sewing birds? Anyone have a pic they would like to share? :-)

There is one on E-Bay

http://cgi.ebay.com/SEWING-BIRD-1853-Replica-Pin-Cushion-Gold-Plated-Brass_W0QQitemZ320107288625QQihZ011QQcategoryZ114QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Mine is identical, but came from a U.S. catalogue of pretty things, 
ages ago, so I don't remember the name of it - sorry.

Suzi 

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Status: RO



Once upon a time I came across a gown with rushing but I can't seem to find
it. I did find
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tseighteenth/1700-1799.
html
4th dress where there is rushing on the stomacher.

De


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Status: RO

May I also get a copy, please?
Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Kinsey
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 9:31 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] hand rolled hems

>I sent a file with illustrations to the original poster
>privately, since this list doesn't take attachments.  
>It also helps to use a >sewing clamp as a third 
>hand to keep the fabric taut.
>
>Melusine
>

May I also request a copy?

This thread came up at a very good time for me, I already have the
cursing part down :).

Thanks,
Catherine
ckinsey@kumc.edu
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
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Status: RO

At 12:01 PM 4/30/2007, you wrote:
>If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased.
>I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise 
>dress i am going to make. But desided i have not yeat!
>On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the 
>edge. On the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a 
>bigger gold trim.
>I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not 
>at all like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the 
>silk. Is the gold trim two much?
>What do you think?
>
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

I like the ruched trim.  And the gold trim is a very nice addition.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Status: RO

http://www.lacis.com/catalog/data/n_sewingbird.html

More info at:
  http://www.monmouthmuseum.org/sewingbird.html

Pretty
http://www.victoriantradingco.com/store/catalogimages/9i/i1916.html

an antique:
http://www.patented-antiques.com/Backpages/All_Archives/SEW_ARCHIVE/Sewrelated-archive.htm
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Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 20:16:34 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 4/30/2007 5:08:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net writes:

Maybe switch trims?  The bigger one on the pleated side and the  smaller trim 
on the rusched side?


************************  





This is what I was thinking.
 
But I like the small trim best. The big trim looks costume-y to me, but on  
the edge, and THEN box pleated it might really bring out the pleat.
 
Also with rusching...there are decorative ways if putting in the drawing  
threads. I've seen it like an inch or so from a pinked edge with 3 or 4   
parallel rows of threads in a zig-zag pattern... like 6 stitches to the  left....6 to 
the right...left...right...
Of course these were all drawn up by hand.



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hand rolled hems
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Status: RO

(snip about sewing birds and other clamp-type things)

> I've seen those, and also wondered about the heavy/stiff pillows it
> looks like stitchers are using in some of the 17/18C paintings.  A
> couple of examples:
> http://www.arthistory.cc/auth/velazquez/index.htm  scroll down to 'The
> Needlewoman'
>
> "Interior with a Mother" by Willem van Mieris  and "The Letter Writer
> Surprised" by Gabriel Metsu (both are on the http://www.wga.hu site ).
>
>
> Seems to be a very similar style of tall basket also used at this time
> for mending and/or sewing supplies.
>
> One of those pillows might work pretty well for me, it would be
> adjustable.  When I try and pin what I am working on to the chair that
> is, naturally, the time the cat wants a lap :).
>
> Catherine

I've only had my clamps for about a year; before that, I used to pin my work 
to a chair arm, part of my clothing, etc.  My greatgrandmother taught me to 
pin my work to the knee of my jeans when I was in high school, that worked 
pretty well.  The advantage of a clamp or the pillows, is that you can get 
up for a cup of tea without your work being attached to you.

Melusine 

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Status: RO

> Sewing birds? Anyone have a pic they would like to share? :-)
> 
> Arlys

Here's the one(s) I have.....2 different people gave them to me for Yule.
http://www.lacis.com/catalog/search.php

Melusine
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

I just love starting this thread... such interesting answers.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO


Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing today?


>I just love starting this thread... such interesting answers.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes

Right now Yasmine's completely naked!  I just removed the 
burgundy/gold/black 1625 French Cavalier dress that I've been renovating for 
a client (yes!  it goes back home tomorrow!).  I'm trying to decide if the 
black velvet Henry VII gown needs to go on next, or if I can put my ropa on 
her so I can re-pleat the back.

I think I need a boyfriend for Yasmine.....anyone got a male dummy about 
size 42 cheap?

Melusine

Melusine 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 20:47:11 -0400
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Status: RO

On Monday 30 April 2007 3:01 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased.
> I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise dress i
> am going to make. But desided i have not yeat!
> On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the edge. On
> the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a bigger gold trim.
> I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at all
> like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. Is the
> gold trim two much?
> What do you think?

I think the pleats look sharper and better defined in the trim on the left.  
The trim on the right is bolder, but doesn't have the kind of precise look I 
think of when I think of dresses of this era.  So I vote for the left.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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On Monday 30 April 2007 9:51 pm, Carmen Beaudry wrote:
> Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing today?

A plain white linen shift to go under some of my Viking garb.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Status: RO


On Apr 30, 2007, at 12:52 AM, TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:
>
> Would silk twill have been used for any of these garments?

Not likely.  I don't know the history of this particular textile, but  
most modern silk twills are too limp to make good 16th-century  
gowns.  You'd have to underline the heck out of it to get it to hold  
up properly, and it's probably not worth it.

> I'm not
> necessarily going for super-upper class with the loose gown, by the  
> way.  I was
> thinking of using some cotton velvet I already have for the  loose  
> gown; would that
> be warmer than the silk twill, or would it all depend on  what I  
> lined it with?

The velveteen would definitely be warmer than the silk, though of  
course it does depend somewhat on what you use for lining.  A  
velveteen lined in just about anything would be warmer than the silk  
unless you lined or underlined the silk with a not-too-thin wool.   
Honestly, though, that sort of silk is just too thin and drapey for  
that purpose and will only cause you heartache if you try to use it  
for the outside.  It might make a good lining for the velveteen, though!

Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hand rolled hems
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Status: RO

I used to pin my work to my jeans too, but stopped when I ruined a favorite 
pair of jeans - holes started appearing where I'd put the pins (over and 
over...it most certainly wasn't a one time thing).

kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hand rolled hems


> (snip about sewing birds and other clamp-type things)
>
>> I've seen those, and also wondered about the heavy/stiff pillows it
>> looks like stitchers are using in some of the 17/18C paintings.  A
>> couple of examples:
>> http://www.arthistory.cc/auth/velazquez/index.htm  scroll down to 'The
>> Needlewoman'
>>
>> "Interior with a Mother" by Willem van Mieris  and "The Letter Writer
>> Surprised" by Gabriel Metsu (both are on the http://www.wga.hu site ).
>>
>>
>> Seems to be a very similar style of tall basket also used at this time
>> for mending and/or sewing supplies.
>>
>> One of those pillows might work pretty well for me, it would be
>> adjustable.  When I try and pin what I am working on to the chair that
>> is, naturally, the time the cat wants a lap :).
>>
>> Catherine
>
> I've only had my clamps for about a year; before that, I used to pin my 
> work to a chair arm, part of my clothing, etc.  My greatgrandmother taught 
> me to pin my work to the knee of my jeans when I was in high school, that 
> worked pretty well.  The advantage of a clamp or the pillows, is that you 
> can get up for a cup of tea without your work being attached to you.
>
> Melusine
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Status: RO

Hello all,

Apologies to those who get this on multiple lists.  The Costume Con 
25 official photo collection is ready to ship.  There are over 1300 
photos, on 5 discs, for $50.00.

To order, please contact the photographer directly:

Kerry Gilley
kerry.gilley@gmail.com

Those of you who signed up or expressed an interest at the con, 
please send Kerry a reminder.

We are not quite ready yet to sell individual photos - please be 
patient, it will be coming very soon.

Thank you all for your patience.

Pierre Pettinger
CC25 Co-chair

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing today?
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Status: RO

I'm so excited--I actually have a dressmaker's dummy so I can answer this 
question.

Currently, it's wearing my soon-to-be-finished-I-hope apron-front Empire 
gown, as well as a Spencer I made from the same book, _Patterns of Fashion 
1, Englishwomen's Dresses and Their Construction_, many years ago. Even 
though the bodice of the gown does not hang quite correctly, and the Spencer 
is now missing some of its fabric-covered buttons, the dummy looks fabulous. 
And, I now know that I will be able to finish the gown since I can actually 
see it rather than struggling to pin it on and pining for at least another 
pair of arms while attempting to see myself in the mirror (say that three 
times fast).

Off to bed...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net 


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Status: RO

On Monday 30 April 2007 9:51 pm, Carmen Beaudry wrote:
>Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing today?

This is the first time I've answered to this mailing list - hope it gets 
through.
I have 3 thee dummies "Pricilla" is currently wearing the yellow ball gown 
from "Beauty & the Beast"
"Penny" is wearing the gown for the "enchantress"  and "Petula" is dreased 
as the 'Young Prince'.  I don't have a male dummy either.
Paula S. :-)

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References: <edcaf0220704301808s4d1903d9v9cd810612c80a9b2@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing today?
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 22:20:58 -0600
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Status: RO

Nothing.  Or everything. <g>
Okay...I don't *have* a dummy.  I *am*, however, working on some early 13th
century gowns for this summer though--a couple in linen, at least one in
wool, and a gardecorps.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 7:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing today?


> I just love starting this thread... such interesting answers.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes


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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing today?
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Status: RO

A cardboard box for the new one,  three tabards on the old one. :)

Chiara


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 8:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing today?


>I just love starting this thread... such interesting answers.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
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Status: RO

I looked at your drawing and I think you should put small pleating , =
with or
without small gold trim, on the stomacher. Then use the ruching  where =
the
trim is larger. So the smaller the trim, the more precise it is. The =
largest
trim would be ruched, maybe with a pinked edge for softness.=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 12:02 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] i cant deside.........


If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased.
I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise dress =
i am

going to make. But desided i have not yeat!
On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the edge. =
On=20
the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a bigger gold trim.
I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at =
all=20
like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. Is the =
gold

trim two much?
What do you think?

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/=20


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