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From: "E House" <swissgirl@swissinfo.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200705311800.l4VI0F8o078237@net.indra.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20070531223230.051ea750@pop.radiks.net>
X-ASG-Orig-Subj: Re: [h-cost] Re: applique attachment
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: applique attachment
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2007 01:00:30 -0500
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Status: RO

One thing I've only made very limited trials with, but have great hopes for 
when it comes to aligning those pesky guards just right: a thin layer of 
plain old Elmer's school glue.  You know, the sort that washes out of your 
clothing.  As long as the fabric is soakable, it all seems to come out with 
no staining, and since it takes a while to dry you have time to reposition 
things. The bond is weak enough that if nothing else, you can just peel it 
off, add a touch more glue, and put it back in another place.  You'd still 
have to sew the applique down, of course, but it's a nice cheap easy 
alternative.

-E House

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century Spain
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2007 20:06:11 +1000
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Status: RO

Actually, there is an email address listed there directly beneath 'A history 
of Jessamyn's Closet'
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peggy Hogan" <stagefright@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century Spain


> Yes but there's no  e-mail address and the site hasn't been updated for a 
> number of years.
<snip>
>> Have you tried this link?
>>
>> http://jessamynscloset.com/
>>
>> It's the only one I have -- but the site hasn't been updated recently  so 
>> I wonder if she's moved elsewhere?
>>
>> HTH,
>> Suzanne

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] brim width for a mid 18th century hat
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Status: RO

Could somebody here advise me with how wide i should make the brim of a mid 
18th century hat? It is to go with the red taffetadress i make.
I have a tendensy to make it two large i think, what do you think?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Reguarding Hand Applique/Fusing
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Status: RO

I use stencil plastic.  Out of the plastic, cut the shape you are using  
1/4 inch smaller than the original.  Set aside the plastic part for a 
moment.  Now spray your (fabric) shape with spray starch.  Lay the 
plastic shape back onto the fabric shape, centering it, and then iron 
all the sides up along the plastic.  Once you have all the sides creased 
up, turn it over (making sure your seam allowances stay folded to the 
wrong side) and iron it again. Then, if wanted, I cut a piece of fusible 
web just smaller the the finished shape and fuse it down.  That way the 
very edge of the shape doesn't have any fusible on it so your needle 
goes through easier, and the edge is glued down  so you won't have to 
worry about it boinging up when you are hand sewing.

Good Luck!

Sincerely,
Lady Margaret Sayher
(SCA, Barony of Highland Foorde)
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

I have the great good luck to be attending a lecture
this Sunday evening at Fullerton College (So.
Calif.)by the authors of The Tudor Tailor. I'd hate to
have somebody say afterwards: "Oh, if only I'd known."
So while there's no guarantee I'll get to ask a
question, I thought I'd better ask y'all... Are there
any questions anyone would like to me to ask, or
answers you'd like me to listen for? Naturally, tho I
can't guarantee that I'll be called on, I'll certainly
be taking notes. Let me know.

MaggiRos


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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Status: RO

I just bought an 1880s wool dolman that needs allover hand dry cleaning. 
  Who's doing it in the SF Bay Area these days? I used to go to Pennou 
(sp?) French Cleaners but they say they don't do it any more.

Thanks for any info,

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:16:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery .....Some Books I found helpful on
	the subject
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

HI,
  There is a small publication from (of all places) Dover Press, the people who make all those small craft-y books.
   I bought one called " Charted Peasant Designs from Saxon Transylvania".
  The front part of the book has a 3 page introduction to the contents of the items included, as  well as photograhs of actual pieces .
 There is also a bibliography and a map to show where the stiches and designs originated and travel to Transylvania  and the time element.
   He talkes aboutt he earlier work of the 12 th century Saxon women "precision of stitch,alike on both sides of the linen in pattern and clearness.'
  It's a nice little book, the author is  Heinz Edgar Kiewe  , costs $5.95 , Dover 0-486-23425-8 and I got mine thru Wal-marts online book store
  Also available from the same Dover books people are 
   "Blackwork Embriodery" by Elizabeth Gedded and Moyra McNeill  Dover  0-486-2324-5-x and "Blackwork" by Mary Gostelow  Dover Needlework Series 0-486-40178-2 .
  Both books have brief histories of the work and Photos of art work showing Blackwork and extant pieces ,museum and private collections.
   they are all inexpensive book ,have nice photos  and actual chartes for the stiches.
  They maybe 'Kindergarten" books for what you need, but they are worth the look
  Melody
   
   
  Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
  
I am not an embroiderer, and my knowledge of medeival embroidery is
skeletal -- enough to recognize situations in which it occurs, and to know
when to go to others with a question.

This is one of those times. I'm talking with another researcher who's
working with a text reference to embroidery. One possible interpretation
of the reference would be that it describes embroidery that appears on
both the inside and outside of the fabric. To me, that sounds like
something on the line of blackwork, designed to be neat and finished
looking on both the right and "wrong" side, and thus suited to things like
cuff and collar edges that might be turned out.

So, questions:

1. Is my memory correct -- is this indeed a characteristic of blackwork?
Or any other kind of historic embroidery style?

2. Is this characteristic actually documentable to any non-modern
examples? (I know it's easy to assume that a standard definition of a
technique must date back forever, but it might be done differently in
different periods.) If so, how early? I mentally associate blackwork in
particular with the Tudor period, but the reference in this case is about
1400.

3. Can anyone point me to a published source that would document the use
of such a "two right sides" technique to a medieval artifact?

Ultimately my friend would like to have a citation that shows the use of
such inside/outside embroidery from around 1400. Doesn't have to be
blackwork.

Failing that, it would be helpful to have a citation of such a technique
from a later period, even if it's not c. 1400.

Many, many thanks, as always, to the wonderfully helpful people on this
list. I am always amazed by the breadth of knowledge represented here.

--Robin


==========================================================
Robin Netherton 
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
robin@nightowl.net
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1666
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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From: Jodi Nelson <faerieglenstudios@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Hand Drycleaning
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Status: RO

Fran,

What is Hand drycleaning? I have never heard that before.

Jodi

 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery .....Some Books I found helpful on
	the subject
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Status: RO


On Sat, 2 Jun 2007, Melody Watts wrote:

>    I bought one called " Charted Peasant Designs from Saxon
> Transylvania".
...
>    He talkes aboutt he earlier work of the 12 th century Saxon women
> "precision of stitch,alike on both sides of the linen in pattern and
> clearness.'

I've seen this -- a long time ago. He doesn't happen to give a source for
that comment, does he? (So many of the older books reprinted by Dover do
not.) Without a primary citation, it's only hearsay, I fear, but with it,
very very helpful indeed.

--Robin

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From: Edith Reardon <edithreardon@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery .....Some Books I found helpful on
	the subject
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Too bad Walmart won't ship their books out of the USA.  They advertise great prices on some books.
   
  Brin Kendall

Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
    HI,
There is a small publication from (of all places) Dover Press, the people who make all those small craft-y books.
I bought one called " Charted Peasant Designs from Saxon Transylvania".
The front part of the book has a 3 page introduction to the contents of the items included, as well as photograhs of actual pieces .
There is also a bibliography and a map to show where the stiches and designs originated and travel to Transylvania and the time element.
He talkes aboutt he earlier work of the 12 th century Saxon women "precision of stitch,alike on both sides of the linen in pattern and clearness.'
   
  (snipped)
--Robin


==========================================================
Robin Netherton 
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
robin@nightowl.net
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1666
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hand Drycleaning
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Status: RO

With regular dry cleaning they put the garment or textile into a machine 
and agitate it, which stresses it much more than hand dry cleaning, 
which seems similar to flat washing where you sponge the soap through 
the cloth. I always have dry-clean-only antique textiles hand dry cleaned.

Here is a picture of hand dry cleaning (on a rug):

http://www.rugrenovating.com/PicturePages/HandOrDry.html

And here is a description (for upholstery):

http://www.ablesupply.com/tech_database.php?keyword=hand_dry_cleaning

Fran


Jodi Nelson wrote:
> Fran,
> 
> What is Hand drycleaning? I have never heard that before.
> 
> Jodi
> 
>  
> ---------------------------------
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Hi,
Just wanted to share, i happily got to make the dress before she comes and 
pick it up friday next week.
I dont think i have ever worked so hard in my life before, sewing wise, 
never a moments piece.....
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm


Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Status: RO

Stunning, as always!

Thanks for sharing. :-D

Arlys

On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 14:47:34 +0200 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> 
> Hi,
> Just wanted to share, i happily got to make the dress before she 
> comes and 
> pick it up friday next week.
> I dont think i have ever worked so hard in my life before, sewing 
> wise, 
> never a moments piece.....
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm
> 
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
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Status: RO

Bjarne, that's breathtaking.
Please ask her to take lots of pictures of her wearing it!
Michelle
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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2007 12:02:27 -0400
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Status: RO

That is so lovely, Bjarne!  You should be really proud of the work you've
done.

I have started a complicated project that I need to finish by the end of
June so I am curious how long your robe a la francaise took you to complete?

Jennifer

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:48 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.


Hi,
Just wanted to share, i happily got to make the dress before she comes and 
pick it up friday next week.
I dont think i have ever worked so hard in my life before, sewing wise, 
never a moments piece.....
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm


Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] What R U doing this weekend ?- was "Testing..."
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Status: RO

Ah, but now its June:

"June just rains and never stops
Thirty days and spoils the crops."

Sorry about the off topic, but I am a huge Flanders and Swann fan!

Jennifer

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of julian wilson
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 5:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] What R U doing this weekend ?- was "Testing..."

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  Sue Clemenger wrote:

> 3-day weekend in the U.S. I'd imagine a lot of us are off doing family
stuff, camping, etc. I've just come back from seeing Pirates3,
myself....lots of fun.<

Rewiring the electrical in the bedroom. I'll be able to SEE when I cut out
my fabric, and when I'm digging in the back of the closet for stored
costumes.
  COMMENT
  It's a 3-day weekend here in the Anglo-Norman Isles, too. 
  Mixed weather as is usual for an English May Holdiay weekend - 
  "Farmers fear unkindly May, 
  Frost by night and hail by day - - -"- 
  Saturday was sunny, yesterday sunny with showers including some hail,
overnight storm is still blowing hard and showering this morning; - and I
now wish I'd laid-out our sleeping tent yesterday and brushed-off the canvas
before re-folding everything into tighter bundles for next weekend's
travelling to the mainland UK.
  Over here, May is a month with 2 "Bank-Holiday Mondays", and May 9th is
our Isles' "1945 Liberation Day Anniversary Celebration" - so work-wise and
wages-wise - it's a "short month".
  My House is sorting equipment and pre-packing - to travel to the UK
Mainland to take part in West Dragonshire's "Winchester Pilgrimage" [weekend
June 1st to 3rd] see some pictures at
http://www.westdragonshire.org/pilgrimage
- based upon the medieval "Almshouses & Hospital of St Cross", [Winchester,
Hampshire, UK,]  - which latter is a group of almost unaltered medieval
buildings continuously-occupied by the Brothers Of St. Cross since it's
Foundation.
  The location has almost no anachronisms in view once through the gateway;
and the Brothers all wear monkish robes, too, as "daily-garb", - which helps
the "effort of belief". 
  Next Saturday morning's 3 hrs pilgrimage walk will be along the path
through the watermeadows beside the River Itchen, finishing-up at Winchester
Cathedral; and then walking back to St Cross. 
  Satruday night's Feast will be held in the Hospital's medieval "Hundred
Mens' Hall".
  IMHO, this will be one of the two events in Drachenwald this year [the
other wil be "Ffair Raglan III" ] at which Society members will be able most
easily - and with minimum effort of imagination - to experience those rare &
precious moments when one may look round and think one's self back in the
medieval Period.
  So for my Lady and I this weekend will continue to be a weekend of happy
anticipation, and pre-packing equipment.
   
  YiS,
  Matthew Baker

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Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2007 10:19:05 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Reminder -Tudor Tailor Lecture - Tuesday - 6:00 pm
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Status: RO


Sorry for the cross posts...just a reminder.



Tuesday, June 5, 6:00pm

The Tudor Wardrobe - Ninya Mikhaila & Jane Malcolm-Davies
Join The Tudor Tailor for a lively look inside the clothes presses of =
ordinary
and middle class people in sixteenth-century England. Discover what =
evidence
there is for their clothes, where their garments came from, and how they =
were
made and maintained. This dressing demonstration compares and contrasts =
everyday
wear with Sunday best and explains other clothing conventions of Tudor =
society.
It also discusses some of the challenges of recreating historic dress =
for 21st
century wear. This discussion and demonstration will be led by England's
foremost scholars of Elizabethan and Tudor dress formerly in charge of =
creating
the reenactment clothing at Hampton Court Palace. For more information =
see
www.tudortailor.com.


----- Original Message -----
From: Sewell, Dennita
To: Saragrace =
Knauf<mailto:saragracetk@...<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atenveldt/post=
?postID=3D4Nz9z6bN035hfyO8D2TOleFToAKi7hHvpEv6B7azvTODyN6osAu2ho0VWLK2Vfp=
0hnhEj-cv4KlV>>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 1:41 PM


This version is approved to send out. Thank you very much for helping =
promote
the event. They will be selling books and merchandise afterward.


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Hand Drycleaning
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Status: RO

> With regular dry cleaning they put the garment or textile into a 
> machine 
> and agitate it, which stresses it much more than hand dry cleaning,  
> which seems similar to flat washing where you sponge the soap 
> through 
> the cloth. 
 
And given the government restrictions on dry cleaning solvent, I think
you're going to have problems finding someone who can do this, ESPECIALLY
in California.  The only thing I can think of would be to contact some of
the industry associations (such as the International Fabricare Institute,
http://www.ifi.org/) and see if they have anyone they can recommend.  Or
see if there's someone using alternative solvents in your area -- I
believe the liquid CO2 method requires a pressurized machine, so wouldn't
work for you, but I don't know about Rynex or GreenEarth.

Leah
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hand Drycleaning
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Status: RO

I've found places that do it by mail, I just was hoping for a local one. 
  It's really not an unusual process.  Museums, antique textile and 
clothing collectors, and the better vintage clothing stores frequently 
send antique garments to be hand dry cleaned, since they will not 
withstand the agitation of machine cleaning. I've been sending stuff out 
for this process for decades.  It's just that dry cleaners tend not to 
find the museum, etc. business as lucrative as machine dry cleaning for 
the neighborhood.  One dry cleaner I used to use went out of business 
and the other says they no longer offer this service.

My next step will be to contact the deYoung Museum and ask who they use 
for their collection, or perhaps to send to a place I found in New York. 
   Government regulations or not, I don't think every museum in the 
country is going to have to start sending all those 18th-century and 
19th-century garments out to the neighborhood bulk dry cleaner.

Thanks,

Fran

Leah L Watts wrote:

>>With regular dry cleaning they put the garment or textile into a 
>>machine 
>>and agitate it, which stresses it much more than hand dry cleaning,  
>>which seems similar to flat washing where you sponge the soap 
>>through 
>>the cloth. 
> 
>  
> And given the government restrictions on dry cleaning solvent, I think
> you're going to have problems finding someone who can do this, ESPECIALLY
> in California.  The only thing I can think of would be to contact some of
> the industry associations (such as the International Fabricare Institute,
> http://www.ifi.org/) and see if they have anyone they can recommend.  Or
> see if there's someone using alternative solvents in your area -- I
> believe the liquid CO2 method requires a pressurized machine, so wouldn't
> work for you, but I don't know about Rynex or GreenEarth.
> 
> Leah

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hand Drycleaning
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Status: RO

Hi,
Just my 2 cents, i know that the National Museum, Denmark,  has their own 
cleaning departure, they dry clean their own stuff, and they also take 
comissions, only it is quite expensive. I know this because the academy of 
Historical Hairstyles, was payed for one of their catwalks at the National 
Museum, with cleaning a dress for them.
When i worked at the Museum of Decorative arts, they asked me to clean a 
full bustledress. I was send to town to buy lots of cleaning petrol, and the 
whole dress was dipped into a bath of this. Worked very well. I did it 
outside, and the rest of the petrol i was told should just stand outside, so 
that it could evaporate.
Perhaps you could do that two, if you have a zink large enough, and can do 
it outside..........

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Hand Drycleaning


> I've found places that do it by mail, I just was hoping for a local one. 
> It's really not an unusual process.  Museums, antique textile and clothing 
> collectors, and the better vintage clothing stores frequently send antique 
> garments to be hand dry cleaned, since they will not withstand the 
> agitation of machine cleaning. I've been sending stuff out for this 
> process for decades.  It's just that dry cleaners tend not to find the 
> museum, etc. business as lucrative as machine dry cleaning for the 
> neighborhood.  One dry cleaner I used to use went out of business and the 
> other says they no longer offer this service.
>
> My next step will be to contact the deYoung Museum and ask who they use 
> for their collection, or perhaps to send to a place I found in New York. 
> Government regulations or not, I don't think every museum in the country 
> is going to have to start sending all those 18th-century and 19th-century 
> garments out to the neighborhood bulk dry cleaner.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fran
>
> Leah L Watts wrote:
>
>>>With regular dry cleaning they put the garment or textile into a machine 
>>>and agitate it, which stresses it much more than hand dry cleaning, 
>>>which seems similar to flat washing where you sponge the soap through the 
>>>cloth.
>>
>>  And given the government restrictions on dry cleaning solvent, I think
>> you're going to have problems finding someone who can do this, ESPECIALLY
>> in California.  The only thing I can think of would be to contact some of
>> the industry associations (such as the International Fabricare Institute,
>> http://www.ifi.org/) and see if they have anyone they can recommend.  Or
>> see if there's someone using alternative solvents in your area -- I
>> believe the liquid CO2 method requires a pressurized machine, so wouldn't
>> work for you, but I don't know about Rynex or GreenEarth.
>>
>> Leah
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20070603.074536.1032.0.Cley@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
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Status: RO

Thankyou soo much Arlys.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.


> Stunning, as always!
> 
> Thanks for sharing. :-D
> 
> Arlys


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2007 20:49:15 +0200
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Status: RO

Dear Michelle,
I shall in deed get a lot of photos, she is going to open an exhibition at 
Gammel Estrup castle about coffe and tea settings trough the ages. Just the 
right background for the dress.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michelle Plumb" <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.


> Bjarne, that's breathtaking.
> Please ask her to take lots of pictures of her wearing it!
> Michelle
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
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Status: RO

Hi,
Manny thanks for the phraise of my work.
It has taken me about 2 months to complete this dress, and remember i have a 
full time job besides making the costumes, hense the long time.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 6:02 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.


> That is so lovely, Bjarne!  You should be really proud of the work you've
> done.
>
> I have started a complicated project that I need to finish by the end of
> June so I am curious how long your robe a la francaise took you to 
> complete?
>
> Jennifer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:48 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
>
>
> Hi,
> Just wanted to share, i happily got to make the dress before she comes and
> pick it up friday next week.
> I dont think i have ever worked so hard in my life before, sewing wise,
> never a moments piece.....
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm
>
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2007 12:56:42 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
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Status: RO

Bjarne--
This is magnificent! Please, Please, Please put up a photo of the finished
garment!

Thank you for sharing your wonderful work!
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Jennifer Byrne
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 12:02 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.


That is so lovely, Bjarne!  You should be really proud of the work you've
done.

I have started a complicated project that I need to finish by the end of
June so I am curious how long your robe a la francaise took you to complete?

Jennifer

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:48 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.


Hi,
Just wanted to share, i happily got to make the dress before she comes and
pick it up friday next week.
I dont think i have ever worked so hard in my life before, sewing wise,
never a moments piece.....
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm


Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] hand rolling hems
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2007 12:10:08 -0400
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Status: RO

Hi C.

I'm not sure what the "journo" is so I don't know how to answer that.
Sorry!

Jennifer

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of stilskin@netspace.net.au
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 5:15 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolling hems

Hello, Jennifer.

Post is in so, so are you.

Tell me, you the journo?

-C.


------------------------------------------------------------
This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolling hems
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 01:14:36 +1000
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Status: RO

it's short for Journalist and if you didn't understand the word journo 
you're clearly not Australian and therefore not the person C was asking 
about. This is the person I believe C was talking about 
http://www.abc.net.au/backyard/presenters/JENNIFERBYRNE.htm
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 2:10 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] hand rolling hems


> Hi C.
>
> I'm not sure what the "journo" is so I don't know how to answer that.
> Sorry!
>
> Jennifer
>

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Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2007 06:56:48 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
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Status: RO

At 05:47 AM 6/3/2007, you wrote:

>Hi,
>Just wanted to share, i happily got to make the dress before she 
>comes and pick it up friday next week.
>I dont think i have ever worked so hard in my life before, sewing 
>wise, never a moments piece.....
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm
>
>
>Bjarne

Very beautiful! @>----


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 6/4/2007 3:31:39 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
osermart@msu.edu writes:

I'm  looking for advice on a lining material to stiffen the stand-up collars 
of  my husband's cotehardies.  I've got some lightweight linen that I'm  
planning on using for him this summer, and it will definitely need some  help 
to keep the collar in an upright position. 

Is buckram  washable?  If not, what do you recommend I use to add some 
stiffness  to the collar? 



Collar canvas and Rigilene.  You can find the canvas at a  tailoring supply 
company and the Rigiline (plastic boning) usually at  Joanne's.  It will lay 
nicer if you also pad stitch the outside fabric to  the canvas.  
 
Cheryl Odom



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Status: RO

Greetings unto the List, 

I'm looking for advice on a lining material to stiffen the stand-up collars 
of my husband's cotehardies.  I've got some lightweight linen that I'm 
planning on using for him this summer, and it will definitely need some help 
to keep the collar in an upright position. 

Is buckram washable?  If not, what do you recommend I use to add some 
stiffness to the collar? 

Thanks, 

Martha 


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 17:48:26 -0400
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Status: RO


On Jun 4, 2007, at 5:30 PM, Martha Oser wrote:

> Greetings unto the List,
> I'm looking for advice on a lining material to stiffen the stand-up  
> collars of my husband's cotehardies.  I've got some lightweight  
> linen that I'm planning on using for him this summer, and it will  
> definitely need some help to keep the collar in an upright position.
> Is buckram washable?  If not, what do you recommend I use to add  
> some stiffness to the collar?

Buckram is not washable, as the sizing used to stiffen it is water- 
soluble.  I third the idea of padstitched canvas.  I doubt rigilene  
is necessary unless you've got an unusually tall collar.

Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 16:53:34 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

 If you want to be authentic use a stiff canvass or other natural fabric
that is stiff. Be sure to prewash everything before cutting the fabric
if you are doing washables.

If authenticity isn't a big must, try a washable fusible or sew-in
interlining, maybe more than one layer.

Also, if you don't have a copy, check out the Medieval Tailor's
assistant for detailed construction of a cotehardie, from underwear
through accessories.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Cheryldee@aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 4:36 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening

=20
In a message dated 6/4/2007 3:31:39 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
osermart@msu.edu writes:

I'm  looking for advice on a lining material to stiffen the stand-up
collars of  my husband's cotehardies.  I've got some lightweight linen
that I'm planning on using for him this summer, and it will definitely
need some  help to keep the collar in an upright position.=20

Is buckram  washable?  If not, what do you recommend I use to add some
stiffness  to the collar?=20



Collar canvas and Rigilene.  You can find the canvas at a  tailoring
supply=20
company and the Rigiline (plastic boning) usually at  Joanne's.  It will
lay=20
nicer if you also pad stitch the outside fabric to  the canvas. =20
=20
Cheryl Odom



************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
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Status: RO

I use a cotton product called shapewell. If you need a sample I can  
send some across.

Cheers, Aylwen
http://www.bordonia.org
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Status: RO

I know this is a little late - but,,,

copies of your notes??

I think Tudor Tailor is a wonderful resource and would like all satalite information that I can.

Katheryne

----- Original Message -----
From: MaggiRos 
> I have the great good luck to be attending a lecture
> this Sunday evening at Fullerton College (So.
> Calif.)by the authors of The Tudor Tailor. I'd hate to
> have somebody say afterwards: "Oh, if only I'd known."
> So while there's no guarantee I'll get to ask a
> question, I thought I'd better ask y'all... Are there
> any questions anyone would like to me to ask, or
> answers you'd like me to listen for? Naturally, tho I
> can't guarantee that I'll be called on, I'll certainly
> be taking notes. Let me know.
> 
> MaggiRos
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
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Status: RO


On Mon, 4 Jun 2007, Martha Oser wrote:

> I'm looking for advice on a lining material to stiffen the stand-up
> collars of my husband's cotehardies.  I've got some lightweight linen
> that I'm planning on using for him this summer, and it will definitely
> need some help to keep the collar in an upright position.

You've gotten some good suggestions, but you haven't mention what level of
historical accuracy you're seeking. If modern materials are not optimal,
let me know; I have a huge box of heavy linen canvas I bought some time
ago, knowing it was unlikely I'd ever see it again, and I'd be glad to
send you an eighth-yard for the cost of fabric and shipping.

Yeah, that goes for the rest of you too ;-) if you need small amounts for
individual projects. I'll never use it all and don't mind sharing bits and
pieces, but I don't want to sell the entire box worth, as I know I'll be
dipping into it over the years.

--Robin

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Status: RO

Greetings,

I am looking for articles on 14th century male dress.  I'm finding  
that journals like CIBA Review aren't often, if at all, found in  
EBSCO and ArticleFirst et al.  Does anyone know of search databases  
that would list the nifty, yet obscure, journals we rely on?

Thanks!
Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 17:38:22 -0400
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Status: RO

I like canvas.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Jun 4, 2007, at 5:30 PM, Martha Oser wrote:

> Greetings unto the List,
> I'm looking for advice on a lining material to stiffen the stand-up  
> collars of my husband's cotehardies.  I've got some lightweight  
> linen that I'm planning on using for him this summer, and it will  
> definitely need some help to keep the collar in an upright position.
> Is buckram washable?  If not, what do you recommend I use to add  
> some stiffness to the collar?
> Thanks,
> Martha
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] hand rolling hems
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 20:34:09 -0400
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Status: RO

Ah!  
No, I am lowly lawyer in the states - not nearly as interesting as the
journo Jennifer Byrne.  Thanks for the clarification.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 11:15 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolling hems

it's short for Journalist and if you didn't understand the word journo 
you're clearly not Australian and therefore not the person C was asking 
about. This is the person I believe C was talking about 
http://www.abc.net.au/backyard/presenters/JENNIFERBYRNE.htm
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 2:10 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] hand rolling hems


> Hi C.
>
> I'm not sure what the "journo" is so I don't know how to answer that.
> Sorry!
>
> Jennifer
>

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Subject: [h-cost] upcoming book
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Status: RO

Thought that this book (to be released November)=20
might be of interest. I haven't seen a review as yet.

Beth

Title: The Worldwide History of Dress: the=20
Origins of Fashion from the Paleolithic to the Present.
Author: ANAWALT, PATRICIA R
Price: $100.00 ($63.00  Amazon pre-order)
ISBN: 9780500513637  ISBN-10: 0500513635
Description: London: Thames and Hudson, 2007.=20
29cm., hardcover, 608pp., 1100 illus., 800 in=20
color. ^Available November 2007^.

Dr. Patricia Rieff Anawalt, founding director of=20
the Center for the Study of Regional Dress=ADan=20
endowed research facility composed of offices and=20
a laboratory located within the Fowler Museum (UCLA) =ADopened on June 6,=
 1993.
The aim of the Center's program is to advance the=20
study of cloth and clothing traditions, past and=20
present, through teaching and research. =20

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Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 19:52:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ? on library search and article databases
In-Reply-To: <8253B15A-C348-44F2-9F44-8DEFA15BB958@alfalfapress.com>
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Status: RO


On Mon, 4 Jun 2007, Althea Turner wrote:

> I am looking for articles on 14th century male dress.  I'm finding
> that journals like CIBA Review aren't often, if at all, found in EBSCO
> and ArticleFirst et al.  Does anyone know of search databases that
> would list the nifty, yet obscure, journals we rely on?

Your best approach is to backtrack from other articles and books. E.g.
start with Newton's "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince" and go
through her footnotes and bibliography for likely candidates. Then, when
you get those articles/books, do the same. This won't get you new
articles, but it will get you the standards that any scholar would be
expected to be familiar with.

--Robin

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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?;
	Was: robe a la francaise grande panier.
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Status: RO

2 months is an impressively short amount of time for such a project!  

I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list do
not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living.  Is this true?
If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build historical clothing?

I am an attorney by day but I am fascinated with all types of historical
clothing from about the 15th century through the 19th.  Someday I will focus
on one time period but I haven't yet.

Jennifer

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 3:04 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.

Hi,
Manny thanks for the phraise of my work.
It has taken me about 2 months to complete this dress, and remember i have a

full time job besides making the costumes, hense the long time.

Bjarne




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For the Italian costuming enthusiasts:

http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm

--Robin


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Status: RO

>2 months is an impressively short amount of time for such a project!
>
> I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list do
> not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living.  Is this 
> true?
> If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build historical clothing?
>
> I am an attorney by day but I am fascinated with all types of historical
> clothing from about the 15th century through the 19th.  Someday I will 
> focus
> on one time period but I haven't yet.
>
> Jennifer

I make costumes, mostly for reenactors, but I do a few theatrical 
productions, too.

Melusine 

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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ? on library search and article databases
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 19:09:09 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thank you! The 14th century is outside my comfort zone.
Althea

On Jun 4, 2007, at 5:52 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> On Mon, 4 Jun 2007, Althea Turner wrote:
>
>> I am looking for articles on 14th century male dress.  I'm finding
>> that journals like CIBA Review aren't often, if at all, found in  
>> EBSCO
>> and ArticleFirst et al.  Does anyone know of search databases that
>> would list the nifty, yet obscure, journals we rely on?
>
> Your best approach is to backtrack from other articles and books. E.g.
> start with Newton's "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince" and go
> through her footnotes and bibliography for likely candidates. Then,  
> when
> you get those articles/books, do the same. This won't get you new
> articles, but it will get you the standards that any scholar would be
> expected to be familiar with.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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	Was: robe a la francaise grande panier.
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Status: RO

On Monday 04 June 2007, Jennifer Byrne wrote:
> 2 months is an impressively short amount of time for such a project!
>
> I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list do
> not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living.  Is this true?

I'm an attorney by day also, and I'm fascinated by all types of historical 
clothing myself--so long as it's pre-20th century.  :-)



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Subject: [h-cost] Costume-Con 25 Photos available!
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Status: RO

Hey, all.

We are finally ready for individual photo sales. As we mentioned our 
photographer, Kerry Gilley took about 1300 photos at CC. He set up an 
account, but since he only has a dial-up connection was having a 
terrible time trying to upload the photos. He asked me to try and we 
got them up. It did take some time, especially with Marcon 
intervening. But I finished getting them all uploaded last night.

To order photos go to:

www.costumecon25.smugmug.com

4x6 photos are, I believe, 19 cents each. Postage is added, of 
course. (Other sizes are available for additional cost.)

The site is set up with Galleries. The galleries are:

F/SF Masquerade
Future Fashion Show
Historical Masquerade
Doll Competition
Shoe Competition
Mousequerade
Friday Night Social
Friday Hall Costumes
Saturday Hall Costumes
Sunday Hall Costumes

I tried this with IE, Firefox and Netscape. IE and Firefox work 
great. While I could see the home page with Netscape, if I went into 
any of the galleries none of the photos were visible. This may be my 
Netscape version since I don't use it much and haven't updated it for 
quite a while.

Now I have a favor to ask everyone. While we have pretty complete 
information for the competitions, we don't for the Social and the 
Hall Costumes. So, we would like to ask everyone to look at the 
photos and let us know who folks are and what their costumes are 
titled. Even if we recognize you (and we do recognize a lot of you) 
we would like the titles of your costumes as well. So if you can 
identify a photo by gallery and page (and which photo on the page) 
We'd love it.

Please don't clog up the bandwidth on the list(s). Just e-mail us directly at

costumrs@radiks.net

Use a good subject, like CC25 photo id or similar so if we don't 
recognize your e-mail we don't delete you.

Thanks for your patience.

Pierre, Sandy and Kerry


"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Status: RO

I used to be an accountant, and I am now a full time
stay at home mother of two small kids. I enjoy taking
on the occasional costume commission to pay for some
things, and otherwise spend my husband's money to make
up costumes for myself, and my family. Thankfully, he
supports my habit, knowing it is who I am, what I love
to do, and that I will make him look good in costumes,
too.

Kimiko


--- Jennifer Byrne <tigg@twcny.rr.com> wrote:
> I get the sense from messages I have read that most
> folks on this list do
> not make/study/write about historical clothing for a
> living.  Is this true?
> If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build
> historical clothing?



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Luggage? GPS? Comic books? 
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From: "Silvara" <silvaragreenleaf@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
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Status: RO

Is buckram dry cleanable?

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 6/4/2007 2:49:44 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
>
>
> On Jun 4, 2007, at 5:30 PM, Martha Oser wrote:
>
> > Greetings unto the List,
> > I'm looking for advice on a lining material to stiffen the stand-up  
> > collars of my husband's cotehardies.  I've got some lightweight  
> > linen that I'm planning on using for him this summer, and it will  
> > definitely need some help to keep the collar in an upright position.
> > Is buckram washable?  If not, what do you recommend I use to add  
> > some stiffness to the collar?
>
> Buckram is not washable, as the sizing used to stiffen it is water- 
> soluble.  I third the idea of padstitched canvas.  I doubt rigilene  
> is necessary unless you've got an unusually tall collar.
>
> Melanie Schuessler
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 00:38:23 -0700
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Status: RO

I just made a stand up collar for a ruff. I tried one layer of canvas, =
but
that was not enough. I tried two layers and it was perfect. If the =
material
is heavy, you might need 3 layers.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Martha Oser
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 2:31 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening


Greetings unto the List,=20

I'm looking for advice on a lining material to stiffen the stand-up =
collars=20
of my husband's cotehardies.  I've got some lightweight linen that I'm=20
planning on using for him this summer, and it will definitely need some =
help

to keep the collar in an upright position.=20

Is buckram washable?  If not, what do you recommend I use to add some=20
stiffness to the collar?=20

Thanks,=20

Martha=20


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?;
	Was: robe a la francaise grande panier.
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 00:44:18 -0700
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Status: RO

 My Ren Dress is cotton velvet, and silk. I got both at a bargain store =
in
San Jose, Fabrics R Us. I got real pearls from a bead catalogue for less
than I could get fake ones. I had some trim that a friend gave me and =
bought
the rest. The whole thing was under $150, because I made it myself.=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Jennifer Byrne
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 5:56 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?;Was: robe a la
francaise grande panier.


2 months is an impressively short amount of time for such a project! =20

I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list =
do
not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living.  Is this =
true?
If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build historical =
clothing?

I am an attorney by day but I am fascinated with all types of historical
clothing from about the 15th century through the 19th.  Someday I will =
focus
on one time period but I haven't yet.

Jennifer

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 3:04 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.

Hi,
Manny thanks for the phraise of my work.
It has taken me about 2 months to complete this dress, and remember i =
have a

full time job besides making the costumes, hense the long time.

Bjarne




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Status: RO

To those of you going, be sure not to miss a small store that has loads of
trim (2 rooms, floor to ceiling)
Passamaneria Toscana
Piazza San Lorenzo, 12r
The branch store at Viale Strozzi, 8r is smaller, with less inventory.(At
least it was when I saw it in 2002)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 5:59 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?



For the Italian costuming enthusiasts:

http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm

--Robin


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <001b01c7a746$177c9b60$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 12:23:55 +0200
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Status: RO

Is this in Florense?
I am going there soon.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?


> To those of you going, be sure not to miss a small store that has loads of
> trim (2 rooms, floor to ceiling)
> Passamaneria Toscana
> Piazza San Lorenzo, 12r
> The branch store at Viale Strozzi, 8r is smaller, with less inventory.(At
> least it was when I saw it in 2002)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Robin Netherton
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 5:59 PM
> To: Historic Costume List
> Subject: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
>
>
>
> For the Italian costuming enthusiasts:
>
> http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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	<000101c7a70c$3ed633e0$367ee648@ByrneComputer>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?;
	Was: robe a la francaise grande panier.
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 12:20:22 +0200
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Status: RO

I had an expensive education, went to be a costume designer, four years 
study at an artschool in Copenhagen.
But couldnt find a job, so i made another education to a kind of nurse, 
where i take care of elderly people living in their own  home. This is a 
full time job 38 hours a week, with work every 3rd weekend + hollidays.
But as i simply cant live without making historical costumes, i make them in 
my sparetime, some for myself, others for reenactors and museums.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 2:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?;Was: robe a la 
francaise grande panier.


>2 months is an impressively short amount of time for such a project!
>
> I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list do
> not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living.  Is this 
> true?
> If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build historical clothing?
>
> I am an attorney by day but I am fascinated with all types of historical
> clothing from about the 15th century through the 19th.  Someday I will 
> focus
> on one time period but I haven't yet.
>
> Jennifer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 3:04 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
>
> Hi,
> Manny thanks for the phraise of my work.
> It has taken me about 2 months to complete this dress, and remember i have 
> a
>
> full time job besides making the costumes, hense the long time.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "lauren inzer" <laureninzer@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

I work for an optometrist.  As far as funding my costuming...I have to
budget just a small bit out of each paycheck.  My bigger undertakings
sometimes will take months to save for.  Right now I've been savining for
about six months to start a 15th century italian.

Arnora


On 6/4/07, Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I used to be an accountant, and I am now a full time
> stay at home mother of two small kids. I enjoy taking
> on the occasional costume commission to pay for some
> things, and otherwise spend my husband's money to make
> up costumes for myself, and my family. Thankfully, he
> supports my habit, knowing it is who I am, what I love
> to do, and that I will make him look good in costumes,
> too.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> --- Jennifer Byrne <tigg@twcny.rr.com> wrote:
> > I get the sense from messages I have read that most
> > folks on this list do
> > not make/study/write about historical clothing for a
> > living.  Is this true?
> > If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build
> > historical clothing?
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
> Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>



-- 
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Subject: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
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Status: RO

In a message dated 05/06/2007 03:10:39 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Greetings unto the List, 

I'm looking for advice on a lining  material to stiffen the stand-up collars 
of my husband's  cotehardies.  I've got some lightweight linen that I'm 
planning on  using for him this summer, and it will definitely need some help 
to keep  the collar in an upright position. 

Is buckram washable?  If not,  what do you recommend I use to add some 
stiffness to the collar? 
 
 

collar canvas, collar interfacing, or a stiff linen or cotton would do the  
job fabulously
 
debbie



   
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Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 08:00:06 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?;
	Was: robe a     la francai
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Status: RO

 

I make costume for a living too...
 
historical stuff for museums and re-enactors mostly - odd bit of tv chucked  
in - I also make bridal and evening wear, etc.  oh, and have my first  british 
army commision as a tailor now, so most definitely full time   :o)
 
debbie
 
 
 
In a message dated 05/06/2007 03:10:39 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

>2  months is an impressively short amount of time for such a  project!
>
> I get the sense from messages I have read that most  folks on this list do
> not make/study/write about historical clothing  for a living.  Is this 
> true?
> If so, what do you all do  to fund your need to build historical clothing?
>
> I am an  attorney by day but I am fascinated with all types of historical
>  clothing from about the 15th century through the 19th.  Someday I will  
> focus
> on one time period but I haven't yet.
>
>  Jennifer

I make costumes, mostly for reenactors, but I do a few  theatrical 
productions, too.

Melusine 


 



   
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?; Was: robe a 
	la francai
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Status: RO

At 13:00 05/06/2007, you wrote:
>
>
>I make costume for a living too...
>
>historical stuff for museums and re-enactors mostly - odd bit of tv chucked
>in - I also make bridal and evening wear, etc.  oh, and have my 
>first  british
>army commision as a tailor now, so most definitely full time   :o)
>
>debbie
>
>

Until I decided I'd had enough and started planning my retirement I 
was a full time professional costume maker, and when I say full time, 
that often included evenings and weekends. Therefore I have loads of 
personal projects unfinished, because I do not like sewing for me and 
my family when I have been sewing for others all week.

Suzi

> >2  months is an impressively short amount of time for such a  project!
> >
> > I get the sense from messages I have read that most  folks on this list do
> > not make/study/write about historical clothing  for a living.  Is this
> > true?
> > If so, what do you all do  to fund your need to build historical clothing?
> >
> > I am an  attorney by day but I am fascinated with all types of historical
> >  clothing from about the 15th century through the 19th.  Someday I will
> > focus
> > on one time period but I haven't yet.
> >
> >  Jennifer
>
>I make costumes, mostly for reenactors, but I do a few  theatrical
>productions, too.
>
>Melusine

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Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2007 13:30:37 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

I'm a librarian (one of several on this list). I only make costumes to
support my hobby of reenactment, and haven't in fact made a garment for
some time. I'm just coming to the end of a long period when life has
been getting in the way; I hope to move house later this summer, and
when that's over I want to start on a 17th century jacket.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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Status: RO

Costume is what I can't help going on ad nauseam about with anyone who
makes the mistake of asking about my passions. During the day, I work in
a small university art museum, handling shipping, insurance, etc.
details for exhibitions, doing the physical shoving about of walls and
painting and hammering to install and de-install exhibitions, and take
care of our own (mostly 19th c. and up) collection. Every now and then I
get to play with the costume collection at the university's history
museum, and am hoping in coming years to step away from this job to make
archivally-sound mannequins for the correct and safe display of historic
costume collections (I do that on the side now.)

With a husband recently in grad school, funds for costuming were
non-existent. But in truth, time is the biggest lack. Full-time job,
wife & mother, side jobs--there simply isn't much time. And I'm supposed
to be working on a book! (more focused version of Medieval Tailor's
Assistant, with lots more references) It's only two years late...sigh...

Someday....

Sigh.

Astrida



******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

=20
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From: khanson@kc.rr.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

I repair computers for H&R Block. Yep, if you used H&R Block this year, 
I probably repaired and/or configured the computer that was used to do 
your tax returns.

Talia

----- Original Message -----
From: Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
Date: Tuesday, June 5, 2007 7:34 am
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
To: h-costume@indra.com

> I'm a librarian (one of several on this list). I only make 
> costumes to
> support my hobby of reenactment, and haven't in fact made a 
> garment for
> some time. I'm just coming to the end of a long period when life has
> been getting in the way; I hope to move house later this summer, and
> when that's over I want to start on a 17th century jacket.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 08:59:48 -0400
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Status: RO

I'm not certain, but I would guess not.  I imagine the dry-cleaning  
solvent would remove the sizing even more effectively than water!   
I'm happy to be corrected, though, if anyone has experience to the  
contrary.

Melanie


On Jun 5, 2007, at 3:33 AM, Silvara wrote:

> Is buckram dry cleanable?
>
> Silvara
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Date: 6/4/2007 2:49:44 PM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
>>
>>
>> On Jun 4, 2007, at 5:30 PM, Martha Oser wrote:
>>
>>> Greetings unto the List,
>>> I'm looking for advice on a lining material to stiffen the stand-up
>>> collars of my husband's cotehardies.  I've got some lightweight
>>> linen that I'm planning on using for him this summer, and it will
>>> definitely need some help to keep the collar in an upright position.
>>> Is buckram washable?  If not, what do you recommend I use to add
>>> some stiffness to the collar?
>>
>> Buckram is not washable, as the sizing used to stiffen it is water-
>> soluble.  I third the idea of padstitched canvas.  I doubt rigilene
>> is necessary unless you've got an unusually tall collar.
>>
>> Melanie Schuessler
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

On 6/5/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 23:31:47 -0400
> From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?;      Was: robe a
>         la francaise grande panier.
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <200706042331.47251.cathy@thyrsus.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> On Monday 04 June 2007, Jennifer Byrne wrote:
> > 2 months is an impressively short amount of time for such a project!
> >
> > I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list do
> > not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living.  Is this true?
>
> I'm an attorney by day also, and I'm fascinated by all types of historical
> clothing myself--so long as it's pre-20th century.  :-)

I'm a web developer, computer usabilty/accessibilty person by day,
costumer/researcher by evening/weekend. I do enjoy my job but it's not
a passion, and it pays for the fabric :P

I am curious how those of you who do serious construction and research
find the time for your hobbies. I'm finding that in my own life I have
to strictly set aside time and push myself because after 40 hours in
the office sometimes I don't want to do *anything* when I get home,
and counting on "in my free time I'll do x" just doesn't cut it.

How do you find the time, energy, and motivation?

>
>
>
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."
> -- George Mabry
>
Allison T.
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*tries to remember how to breathe!*=0A=0AI wonder if they'll take my soul a=
s payment to attend???=0A=0AThank you Robin!=0A=0AKathy=0A=0A=0AFor the Ita=
lian costuming enthusiasts:=0A=0Ahttp://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm=
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0AErmine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the s=
houlder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless=
) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules. =0AIt=92s never too l=
ate to be who you might have been.=0A-George Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchom=
arc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. =0AWhere the spirit does =
not work with the hand, there is no art.=0A-Leonardo da Vinci=0A=0A=0A=0A  =
    Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email t=
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Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 20:53:53 +1200
From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
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Status: RO

> Is buckram washable?  If not, what do you recommend I use to add some
> stiffness to the collar?

Buckram; never get it wet! I just recently managed to reshape my
Stickelchen (headdress like Anne of Cleves wore) after it was deformed
from water from the hoses putting out our housefire.  It has still
stretched but most of the shape is fine. But I also have a layer of
felt and silk over mine so fine ripples can't really be noticed.

I would recommend hair canvas. It's possibly called horse hair canvas
in places but it's not relaly horse hair.. at least not only... It's a
mottled grey colour and is reasonably easy to get. It's light weight
and washable. After washing it loses a little stiffness but it sound
slike it will still be quite ideal for a light linen.

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
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Status: RO

At 01:59 05/06/2007, you wrote:

>For the Italian costuming enthusiasts:
>
>http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm
>
>--Robin

The promo on the site shows costumes I made, and Janet approved!! I 
would love to go, but hate to think what the cost will be.

Suzi

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From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off Topic: What's your day job?
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2007 13:35:31 +0000
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Status: RO

I am a writer and editor for a living. I started out in costume because I am interested in the history of weaving, and became fascinated with the way weaving technology and trade influenced fashion throughout history -- the huge expansion of gowns in periods where new technology makes fabric cheap, the design elements that are "forced" by limitations in the fabric (notably the avoidance of horizontal seaming), and the way trade in fabric parallels the trade in ideas. I got into re-enacting when I was researching a fiction idea I had about all this stuff, and needed to immerse myself as far as possible in what it was like to wear the clothes and use the technology and in an attempt to see how the material culture might influence ideas. 

At some point I became annoyed by 18th century re-enactor complaints about the unavailability of appropriate printed cottons, and began investigating options for getting fabrics from India. At some point I found a buyer who traveled to India every year and would look into getting me block printed dress goods, but only if I would place a wholesale order to make it worth her while. So I did, and became, by accident, a fabric merchant. See http://www.timetraveltextiles.com I use the cloth-selling partly to give myself a mercer/draper persona for playing at re-enactor events, and partly to pay for some of my costume fun, and partly to be able to deduct other elements of my costume fun from my taxes. But mostly to be able to handle the fabrics and to "justify" researching the fabrics and rationalize making the costumes. My intention is to start weaving more of my wares, but as I am between houses right now, almost all the looms are in storage and I am putting more of my energy in!
 to purs
uits that make more money per hour than handweaving, which is basically, um, anything. I have seen far too many people at this point, including some on this list, who have become disillusioned or even embittered trying to make a full living from whatever aspect of historical costume or merchanting they once loved, and so about a month ago I did take a full-time job to take the financial pressure off the cloth business and off my freelance writing. 

Due to my interest in moments when textile technology and trade changed fashion and the world, my two favorite periods of interest are the 10th century, when the horizontal loom was being adopted in Europe and England for wool and linen weaving, and the end of the 18th century, the dawn of the Industrial Revolution. 

And now I must shut up and get back to work!
Lauren Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net
> 
> In a message dated 05/06/2007 03:10:39 GMT Standard Time, 
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes: 
> 
> >2 months is an impressively short amount of time for such a project! 
> > 
> > I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list do 
> > not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living. Is this 
> > true? 
> > If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build historical clothing? 
> > 
> > I am an attorney by day but I am fascinated with all types of historical 
> > clothing from about the 15th century through the 19th. Someday I will 
> > focus 
> > on one time period but I haven't yet. 
> > 
> > Jennifer 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Off topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

On 6/5/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 23:31:47 -0400
> From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?;      Was: robe a
>         la francaise grande panier.
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <200706042331.47251.cathy@thyrsus.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> On Monday 04 June 2007, Jennifer Byrne wrote:
> > 2 months is an impressively short amount of time for such a project!
> >
> > I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list do
> > not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living.  Is this true?
>
> I'm an attorney by day also, and I'm fascinated by all types of historical
> clothing myself--so long as it's pre-20th century.  :-)

I'm a web developer, computer usabilty/accessibilty person by day,
costumer/researcher by evening/weekend. I do enjoy my job but it's not
a passion, and it pays for the fabric :P

I am curious how those of you who do serious construction and research
find the time for your hobbies. I'm finding that in my own life I have
to strictly set aside time and push myself because after 40 hours in
the office sometimes I don't want to do *anything* when I get home,
and counting on "in my free time I'll do x" just doesn't cut it.

How do you find the time, energy, and motivation?

>
>
>
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."
> -- George Mabry
>
Allison T.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
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At 08:47 AM 6/3/2007, you wrote:

>Hi,
>Just wanted to share, i happily got to make the dress before she 
>comes and pick it up friday next week.
>I dont think i have ever worked so hard in my life before, sewing 
>wise, never a moments piece.....
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm
>
>
>Bjarne


It's beautiful, Bjarne. Will you take more pictures when she comes to 
pick it up so we can see the dress on her?

Dianne





>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Bjarne - I couldn't get all that done in 2 months with NO other job. You
are phenomenal!

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 3:04 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.

Hi,
Manny thanks for the phraise of my work.
It has taken me about 2 months to complete this dress, and remember i
have a=20
full time job besides making the costumes, hense the long time.

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 6:02 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.


> That is so lovely, Bjarne!  You should be really proud of the work
you've
> done.
>
> I have started a complicated project that I need to finish by the end
of
> June so I am curious how long your robe a la francaise took you to=20
> complete?
>
> Jennifer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:48 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
>
>
> Hi,
> Just wanted to share, i happily got to make the dress before she comes
and
> pick it up friday next week.
> I dont think i have ever worked so hard in my life before, sewing
wise,
> never a moments piece.....
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm
>
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>=20


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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 6/5/2007 7:00:46 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
melanie@faucet.net writes:

I'm not  certain, but I would guess not.  I imagine the dry-cleaning   
solvent would remove the sizing even more effectively than  water!   
I'm happy to be corrected, though, if anyone has  experience to the  
contrary.

Melanie


On Jun 5,  2007, at 3:33 AM, Silvara wrote:

> Is buckram dry  cleanable?
>
> Silvara



I would recommend not using buckram.  Because I don't imagine  that it's dry 
cleanable, plus minute it gets wet the starch runs out.   Even if you happen 
accidentally to get caught in a down pour.  It would  lose its integrity and 
possibly stain the collar with white starch.   Yuck!  Also, collar canvas, to my 
knowledge, is made of a combination of  linen and horse hair.  Nothing 
"plastic" in it if you seek out the real  stuff.  This for the purists.
 
Cheryl Odom



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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200706050209.l5529MAt071588@net.indra.com><4665657D02000014000D2E84@Cluster1_gwise3_server.derby.ac.uk>
	<ef81acf826f8b.26f8bef81acf8@rdc-kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

I am an applications developer for a school district. The city had to vote
for my position to be created and paid for. It is a half of my normal pay as
an applications developer but it is 10 minutes from my house and my kids (3)
go to school here. I know I am making a difference not only in my kids'
lives but many others. :)

The historical part about my job is that I get to create graphics too and 
you know what I use as my inspiration! :D

Chiara Francesca

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:55 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?


>I repair computers for H&R Block. Yep, if you used H&R Block this year,
> I probably repaired and/or configured the computer that was used to do
> your tax returns.
>
> Talia
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> Date: Tuesday, June 5, 2007 7:34 am
> Subject: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
> To: h-costume@indra.com
>
>> I'm a librarian (one of several on this list). I only make
>> costumes to
>> support my hobby of reenactment, and haven't in fact made a
>> garment for
>> some time. I'm just coming to the end of a long period when life has
>> been getting in the way; I hope to move house later this summer, and
>> when that's over I want to start on a 17th century jacket.
>>
>> Kate Bunting
>> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?; Was: robe a 
	la francai
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Status: RO

At 08:00 AM 6/5/2007, you wrote:
>I make costume for a living too...
>
>historical stuff for museums and re-enactors mostly - odd bit of tv chucked
>in - I also make bridal and evening wear, etc.  oh, and have my 
>first  british
>army commision as a tailor now, so most definitely full time   :o)
>
>debbie


I do some costuming for pay, but right now it's a sideline. (I'm a 
full-time parent.) Next year, when my youngest finally goes off to 
school, I hope to get into it much more seriously.

Dianne


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  5 10:32:24 2007
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From: Etiennette@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off Topic: What's your day job?
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2007 14:31:25 +0000
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Status: RO

Hi there,

I am new to the list and my day job is a bookkeeper.  In fact I just started my own business.  I like because it will allow me flexibility to enjoy my family.  My son starts middle school next year so I am looking forward to being able to volunteer there.  I am really looking forward to getting back into costuming again.

Etiennette
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
> I am an applications developer for a school district. The city had to vote
> for my position to be created and paid for. It is a half of my normal pay as
> an applications developer but it is 10 minutes from my house and my kids (3)
> go to school here. I know I am making a difference not only in my kids'
> lives but many others. :)
> 
> The historical part about my job is that I get to create graphics too and 
> you know what I use as my inspiration! :D
> 
> Chiara Francesca
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <khanson@kc.rr.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
> 
> 
> >I repair computers for H&R Block. Yep, if you used H&R Block this year,
> > I probably repaired and/or configured the computer that was used to do
> > your tax returns.
> >
> > Talia
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> > Date: Tuesday, June 5, 2007 7:34 am
> > Subject: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> >
> >> I'm a librarian (one of several on this list). I only make
> >> costumes to
> >> support my hobby of reenactment, and haven't in fact made a
> >> garment for
> >> some time. I'm just coming to the end of a long period when life has
> >> been getting in the way; I hope to move house later this summer, and
> >> when that's over I want to start on a 17th century jacket.
> >>
> >> Kate Bunting
> >> Librarian and 17th century reenactor
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

Hi,
Yes when she comes we are arranging to go to the roof terrace where there is 
plenty of room, and ill dress up two for the photographs.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy4@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.


> At 08:47 AM 6/3/2007, you wrote:
>
>>Hi,
>>Just wanted to share, i happily got to make the dress before she comes and 
>>pick it up friday next week.
>>I dont think i have ever worked so hard in my life before, sewing wise, 
>>never a moments piece.....
>>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm
>>
>>
>>Bjarne
>
>
> It's beautiful, Bjarne. Will you take more pictures when she comes to pick 
> it up so we can see the dress on her?
>
> Dianne
>
>
>
>
>
>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  5 10:43:52 2007
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO


My bread-and-butter work is freelance editing; I have been a journalist
and editor for more than 25 years and went freelance when I had my first
child, in 1993. Most of my freelance work is consumer medical editing, but
I work in other areas as well.

Editing the journal Medieval Clothing & Textiles doesn't pay -- and it
does take a huge toll in time and energy. The tiny honorarium I get as
editor might just cover the physical costs involved in doing it, e.g. 
postage, Xeroxes, etc.

I get a little income from my lecturing on medieval costume, and I
dedicate that money to cover my expenses for research and publishing:
photography, conferences, journal subscriptions, memberships, books,
Xeroxing, photo permissions for published articles.

I don't make many costumes these days -- primarily my outfits for
lecturing, proof pieces when I'm working out a new theory, and occasional
garments as favors for friends. (So why do I keep buying fabric?)

My third income comes from making and selling bead jewelry, which is as
much of a hobby as I can claim; it pays for itself, but probably not for
all the time I spend shopping for and playing with beads!

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

I'm a part-time multi-discipline writing tutor for a local community
college. About 80-90% of my clients are second language students. It's a
very enjoyable way to pay of Grad School.

My husband's grateful I'm an embroiderer, not a costumer. ;)

Arlys

On Tue, 5 Jun 2007 07:52:17 -0400 "lauren inzer" <laureninzer@gmail.com>
writes:
> I work for an optometrist.  As far as funding my costuming...I have 
> to
> budget just a small bit out of each paycheck.  My bigger 
> undertakings
> sometimes will take months to save for.  Right now I've been 
> savining for
> about six months to start a 15th century italian.
> 
> Arnora

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rickard, Patty " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 4:00 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.


Bjarne - I couldn't get all that done in 2 months with NO other job. You
are phenomenal!

Patty

Hi Patty,
Thanks but i can also tell you, i have had no life of my own in those 2 
months. No time for friends, no time for going out att all. Just work.....
I have had more commissions lately, but i have turned them down, i cant cope 
with it, must have a normal life two.

Bjarne


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From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

I now know what I want for my 40th b-day.
Thanks Robin.

:>   Mari

On 6/4/07, Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
>
> For the Italian costuming enthusiasts:
>
> http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm
>
> --Robin
>
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From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

I am trying to make a living with selling hand made Fantasy, Ghotic,
Lolita, Japanese street wear inspired clothing on line and on fantasy
fairs here in the Netherlands.
I also make wedding dresses And other costumes.
The last order I did was 10 dance costumes for a piece called Cabaret
for a Jazz dance group.
It was hard work but also a lot of fun.
Oh I forget the 15 little skirts and tops for the little children's who
did a part from the musical Anny.

I normally don't do historical costumes for others. They take too much work.
But I love to make them for myself. And of course fantasy costumes.
The last one I made was a fast and low budget Corpse Bride.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Lijkje.jpg
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Lijkje2.jpg

Since I started to make a living of it I don't make so much for myself
anymore.
Right now I need to invest a lot of money and time to make it work.

Greetings,
       Deredere

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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 10:11:40 -0500
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Status: RO

Robin .... idea

If this does go forward how about we start a yahoo group or something for 
those that want to go. This way we can get a group rate to fly over, get 
rooms, tours, etc.

Anyone on the list in the travel industry that can give us a leg up on how 
to get this going?

Chiara


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 7:59 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?


>
> For the Italian costuming enthusiasts:
>
> http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From: Etiennette@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
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Status: RO

Hi there,

I would be interested in going.  I have already joined up for their mailing list and am counting how to save for it :)

I would be interesting to know costs and such, if anyone has some incite.

Etiennette
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
> Robin .... idea
> 
> If this does go forward how about we start a yahoo group or something for 
> those that want to go. This way we can get a group rate to fly over, get 
> rooms, tours, etc.
> 
> Anyone on the list in the travel industry that can give us a leg up on how 
> to get this going?
> 
> Chiara
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 7:59 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
> 
> 
> >
> > For the Italian costuming enthusiasts:
> >
> > http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm
> >
> > --Robin
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
In-Reply-To: <92ab01c7a783$d351b450$040ba8c0@CHESLAPTOP>
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Status: RO


On Tue, 5 Jun 2007, Chiara Francesca wrote:

> Robin .... idea

...Well, I'm not going, but I'll enjoy it vicariously from the reports
from those of you who do!

> If this does go forward how about we start a yahoo group or something
> for those that want to go. This way we can get a group rate to fly
> over, get rooms, tours, etc.

That sounds like a brilliant idea.

--Robin

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From: monicaspence@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
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Status: RO

I want to go.Yesterday I finished my manuscript  on book 1 on my Cosimo and Eleonora series.  Book 2 is in the second draft and needs very few revisions.

Wish me luck publishing it.. Maybe they could sell copies in the shop at the Pitti Palace :-).

----- Original Message -----
From: Chiara Francesca
Date: Tuesday, June 5, 2007 11:16 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
To: Historical Costume

> Robin .... idea
>
> If this does go forward how about we start a yahoo group or
> something for
> those that want to go. This way we can get a group rate to fly
> over, get
> rooms, tours, etc.
>
> Anyone on the list in the travel industry that can give us a leg
> up on how
> to get this going?
>
> Chiara
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Netherton"
> To: "Historic Costume List"
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 7:59 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
>
>
> >
> > For the Italian costuming enthusiasts:
> >
> > http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm
> >
> > --Robin
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Status: RO

Etiennette@comcast.net wrote:

> Hi there,
> 
> I would be interested in going.  I have already joined up for their mailing list and am counting how to save for it :)
> 
> I would be interesting to know costs and such, if anyone has some incite.
> 

I would expect a week in Italy, plus airfare, hotel (with continental 
breakfast, double occupancy room), and fees, taxes, etc. to be no less 
than $2000 US per person, and more like $3000. And that would be with a 
New York or similar East Coast departure, if you live in California or 
Ohio you're going to pay additional to get to NY the night before the 
trip leaves. You'll also want several hundred (or more) in personal 
expense money, like they other two meals a day, and souveniers.

And don't forget your passport. It may take several months to get it 
processed now that they are mandatory for all US border crossings. Apply 
now if you're serious.


Dawn


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Status: RO

Yes, Firenze, Italia

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 3:24 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?


Is this in Florense?
I am going there soon.

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?


> To those of you going, be sure not to miss a small store that has =
loads of
> trim (2 rooms, floor to ceiling)
> Passamaneria Toscana
> Piazza San Lorenzo, 12r
> The branch store at Viale Strozzi, 8r is smaller, with less =
inventory.(At
> least it was when I saw it in 2002)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
> Behalf Of Robin Netherton
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 5:59 PM
> To: Historic Costume List
> Subject: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
>
>
>
> For the Italian costuming enthusiasts:
>
> http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>=20


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Status: RO

Ooooohhhh...my husband promised me Italy for our 15th anniversary <evil
grin> Do you think he'd go for it? 

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
> Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 2:28 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
> 
> At 01:59 05/06/2007, you wrote:
> 
> >For the Italian costuming enthusiasts:
> >
> >http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm
> >
> >--Robin
> 
> The promo on the site shows costumes I made, and Janet 
> approved!! I would love to go, but hate to think what the 
> cost will be.
> 
> Suzi
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
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Status: RO

Mine said yes, as long as we throw in a bike tour.   : >  Go for it!
Mari


On 6/5/07, Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote:
> Ooooohhhh...my husband promised me Italy for our 15th anniversary <evil
> grin> Do you think he'd go for it?
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From: Jodi Nelson <faerieglenstudios@yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

I go to school part time, work at the Buckle altering part time, and do alterations out of my home mostly part time. I sew my own costumes and my husband's as well. We have lots of pioneer re-enactments here in Utah, and I sew those sometimes as well. Then in my "spare time" I quilt.

Jodi

       
---------------------------------
Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV. 
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From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 08:26:45 -0700
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Status: RO

I second the hair canvas suggestion.  I use it to stiffen all of my bodices
and sleeves (if they need it).  It is lightweight, gives a natural-looking
stiffness, and breathes well.

Diana

P.S. I will be carrying it soon if you want to check back on my website in a
few weeks.

--
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"
 
"Be the change you want to see in the world"
--Ghandi
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of michaela de bruce
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 1:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening

> Is buckram washable?  If not, what do you recommend I use to add some
> stiffness to the collar?

Buckram; never get it wet! I just recently managed to reshape my
Stickelchen (headdress like Anne of Cleves wore) after it was deformed
from water from the hoses putting out our housefire.  It has still
stretched but most of the shape is fine. But I also have a layer of
felt and silk over mine so fine ripples can't really be noticed.

I would recommend hair canvas. It's possibly called horse hair canvas
in places but it's not relaly horse hair.. at least not only... It's a
mottled grey colour and is reasonably easy to get. It's light weight
and washable. After washing it loses a little stiffness but it sound
slike it will still be quite ideal for a light linen.

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

Deredere,

The BONE effects are AMAZING! How did you do that?

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Jun 5, 2007, at 11:08 AM, Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> I am trying to make a living with selling hand made Fantasy, Ghotic,
> Lolita, Japanese street wear inspired clothing on line and on fantasy
> fairs here in the Netherlands.
> I also make wedding dresses And other costumes.
> The last order I did was 10 dance costumes for a piece called Cabaret
> for a Jazz dance group.
> It was hard work but also a lot of fun.
> Oh I forget the 15 little skirts and tops for the little children's  
> who
> did a part from the musical Anny.
>
> I normally don't do historical costumes for others. They take too  
> much work.
> But I love to make them for myself. And of course fantasy costumes.
> The last one I made was a fast and low budget Corpse Bride.
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Lijkje.jpg
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Lijkje2.jpg
>
> Since I started to make a living of it I don't make so much for myself
> anymore.
> Right now I need to invest a lot of money and time to make it work.
>
> Greetings,
>       Deredere
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 11:24:16 -0500
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Status: RO

I am a mother of a toddler and part-time communications coordinator at my
church. Which means I, too, spend my husband's salary to make our costumes
:) Since it was my costuming which won the Costume Contest for two years at
our local Renn Faire and caught the attention of cast there; and that
managed to hook us into being on the cast; and now my husband is the
Guildemaster for our guilde, I think he's OK with that ;)

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:58 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
> 
> I used to be an accountant, and I am now a full time stay at 
> home mother of two small kids. I enjoy taking on the 
> occasional costume commission to pay for some things, and 
> otherwise spend my husband's money to make up costumes for 
> myself, and my family. Thankfully, he supports my habit, 
> knowing it is who I am, what I love to do, and that I will 
> make him look good in costumes, too.
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
> --- Jennifer Byrne <tigg@twcny.rr.com> wrote:
> > I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks 
> on this list 
> > do not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living.  Is 
> > this true?
> > If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build historical 
> > clothing?
> 
> 
> 
>       
> ______________________________________________________________
> ______________________
> Luggage? GPS? Comic books? 
> Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search 
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
> _______________________________________________
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 12:32:05 -0400
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Status: RO

Might as well join the queue!

Until I lost my full-time tenured position in the English department  
of a university that decided to "downsize" its faculty by forcing a  
strike and then hiring permanent replacements (70 tenured faculty  
lost their jobs in this, the ONLY venture into using that Taft- 
Hartley provision against a college faculty), my only sewing was  
clothing for myself and family--work outfits for myself, wedding  
gowns for my sisters, other gift garments. I was also a self-styled  
"queen of string"--knitting, crocheting, quilting, bobbin lace,  
embroidery, a little weaving, tatting, all sporadically but all with  
great satisfaction.

Turned into  part-time faculty member at multiple universities (for  
the budget and the being useful) and also a budding director in  
community theater (for the self-respect and the soul). To use my  
education (concentration in Elizabethan and Jacobean drama), I chose  
to mount plays from those periods, and later from Restoration and  
18th century as well. To COSTUME those plays on a miniscule  
production budget, I became an amateur costumer on the fly. And what  
fun that's been! It's also been a lot of fun for the other domestic  
clothing-makers I've dragooned into service--they've loved the sewing  
challenges and the chance to work with fancy fabrics and trims (thank  
goodness for stores named things like Affordable Fabrics and Discount  
Fabrics, plus a few compassionate purveyors of decorator fabrics!).  
These costumes aimed for historical "line" and "look" but not  
necessarily for authenticity--which, as I've noted in a number of  
postings, is the prioritizing theatrical costuming has to do. I also  
costumed an early-music ensemble, and made his-and-her costumes for a  
partner and me to play King and Queen of Yore for a "medieval  
banquet" fund-raiser at a church in Torrington, CT.

I've just landed a Visiting Assistant Professorship at one of the  
universities where I've been teaching part-time, so for the next year  
(or, if I'm lucky, two) I may find myself with a little more free  
time than I had when carrying anywhere from 3 to 6 classes a semester  
and also doing a couple of other part-time jobs, including editing a  
newsletter for the Connecticut Conference of the American Association  
of University Professors (I'll continue with that one). There's also  
been a power shift at the community theater where I've done most of  
my period directing (as one Associate Board member characterized it,  
"the rats are steering the ship"), and I expect to be taking a break  
from directing there. With this free time I think I will embark on  
something more historically authentic for myself. With no particular  
deadline, it should be a very enjoyable project, and my first real  
opportunity to apply the lessons I'm constantly learning from the  
wonderful people on this list.

Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


>
>
> In a message dated 05/06/2007 03:10:39 GMT Standard Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>> 2  months is an impressively short amount of time for such a   
>> project!
>>
>> I get the sense from messages I have read that most  folks on this  
>> list do
>> not make/study/write about historical clothing  for a living.  Is  
>> this
>> true?
>> If so, what do you all do  to fund your need to build historical  
>> clothing?
>>
>> I am an  attorney by day but I am fascinated with all types of  
>> historical
>>  clothing from about the 15th century through the 19th.  Someday I  
>> will
>> focus
>> on one time period but I haven't yet.
>>
>>  Jennifer
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?; 
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Status: RO

 
 
oh I know that feeling!!
 
Nige insisted I took last thursday evening off to go to the pictures -  first 
evening off in about a month  :o)

 
 
In a message dated 05/06/2007 15:03:40 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Until I  decided I'd had enough and started planning my retirement I 
was a full  time professional costume maker, and when I say full time, 
that often  included evenings and weekends. Therefore I have loads of 
personal  projects unfinished, because I do not like sewing for me and 
my family  when I have been sewing for others all  week.

Suzi


oh I know that feeling!!



   
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Status: RO

How modern are sueded or hammered silk charmeuse?

I need to get some silk for sleeve linings, and those are my options in 
the color I want.

many thanks,

Jen/Pixel
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 22:26:10 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I have never heard if this.  Where do you get it?  Does it keep its 
stiffness with washing (unlike buckram)?

Sylvia Rognstad
DIVINITY DESIGNS and EMERALDS
http://www.d-e-designs.com



On Jun 4, 2007, at 3:58 PM, garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:

> I use a cotton product called shapewell. If you need a sample I can 
> send some across.
>
> Cheers, Aylwen
> http://www.bordonia.org
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Subject: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
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Status: RO

The passport agency has not even processed applications from January and 
February.  My son is supposed to leave this Sunday for Ireland and 
applied for a renewed passport on April 24th with using expedited 
service.  It has not arrived and I had to call the state department task 
force for passports to see what was going on.  It's still there and they 
have tagged it to be done but they cannot guarantee it will be done and 
here by the 9th.  So, if you need a passport you need to apply at least 
6 months in advance if not more than that.

Sincerely,
Lady Margaret
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] was( What's your day job?) Bone effect
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Status: RO

This is how I made all the bone effects.

Take a a pair white of tights. Use one leg for the leg and make the 
other in to a glove.
The bones on the arm and leg are painted on with black paint. Everywhere 
there should be shadow you paint it with shades of black paint. To make 
it a little more nasty paint one layer of latex over it. (this will make 
the tights less stretchy and it will fit not fit as perfect as before 
but it makes it looks dead.)

For the bones on the dress..
Don't read this when you are a vegetarian!

You buy some yummy spare ribs put them in an oven at 130 degrees Celsius.
After about 45 minutes when the flesh almost falls from the bones you 
take them out.
Make some potato's and some vegetables of whatever you like to eat with 
your spare ribs.
Note: watch out! Do not to eat your fingers we don't need those bones!
After your very yummy dinner you search for three nicely clean bones.
You lay those three in a bowl of warm water and clean them after a wile 
with a brush.
To get them white you can put the in a bowl with some bleach but not too 
long!
Just two or three minutes. Clean them with water and let them dry.
Then you can glue them on. And for some more deadly effect you can paint 
some latex on.

Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
> Deredere,
>
> The BONE effects are AMAZING! How did you do that?
>
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> On Jun 5, 2007, at 11:08 AM, Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>
>> I am trying to make a living with selling hand made Fantasy, Ghotic,
>> Lolita, Japanese street wear inspired clothing on line and on fantasy
>> fairs here in the Netherlands.
>> I also make wedding dresses And other costumes.
>> The last order I did was 10 dance costumes for a piece called Cabaret
>> for a Jazz dance group.
>> It was hard work but also a lot of fun.
>> Oh I forget the 15 little skirts and tops for the little children's who
>> did a part from the musical Anny.
>>
>> I normally don't do historical costumes for others. They take too 
>> much work.
>> But I love to make them for myself. And of course fantasy costumes.
>> The last one I made was a fast and low budget Corpse Bride.
>> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Lijkje.jpg
>> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Lijkje2.jpg
>>
>> Since I started to make a living of it I don't make so much for myself
>> anymore.
>> Right now I need to invest a lot of money and time to make it work.
>>
>> Greetings,
>>       Deredere
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: khanson@kc.rr.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
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Status: RO

Right. I applied about 18 months ago for a passport, and paid for the 
expedited service. They got it to me in a week under three months, 
despite assuring me that the expedited service would get it to me in 
less than two weeks. I missed a free 2-month-long trip to Europe 
because of it. Yes, I'm still bitter about that one.

Talia

----- Original Message -----
From: Gail <ladysayher@adelphia.net>
Date: Tuesday, June 5, 2007 2:57 pm
Subject: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
To: h-costume@indra.com

> The passport agency has not even processed applications from 
> January and 
> February.  My son is supposed to leave this Sunday for Ireland and 
> applied for a renewed passport on April 24th with using expedited 
> service.  It has not arrived and I had to call the state 
> department task 
> force for passports to see what was going on.  It's still there 
> and they 
> have tagged it to be done but they cannot guarantee it will be 
> done and 
> here by the 9th.  So, if you need a passport you need to apply at 
> least 
> 6 months in advance if not more than that.
> 
> Sincerely,
> Lady Margaret
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] was( What's your day job?) Bone effect
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 16:11:08 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks very much for this information, Deredere~!
--Ruth Anne

On Jun 5, 2007, at 3:59 PM, Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> This is how I made all the bone effects.
>
> Take a a pair white of tights. Use one leg for the leg and make the  
> other in to a glove.
> The bones on the arm and leg are painted on with black paint.  
> Everywhere there should be shadow you paint it with shades of black  
> paint. To make it a little more nasty paint one layer of latex over  
> it. (this will make the tights less stretchy and it will fit not  
> fit as perfect as before but it makes it looks dead.)
>
> For the bones on the dress..
> Don't read this when you are a vegetarian!
>
> You buy some yummy spare ribs put them in an oven at 130 degrees  
> Celsius.
> After about 45 minutes when the flesh almost falls from the bones  
> you take them out.
> Make some potato's and some vegetables of whatever you like to eat  
> with your spare ribs.
> Note: watch out! Do not to eat your fingers we don't need those bones!
> After your very yummy dinner you search for three nicely clean bones.
> You lay those three in a bowl of warm water and clean them after a  
> wile with a brush.
> To get them white you can put the in a bowl with some bleach but  
> not too long!
> Just two or three minutes. Clean them with water and let them dry.
> Then you can glue them on. And for some more deadly effect you can  
> paint some latex on.
>
> Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
>> Deredere,
>>
>> The BONE effects are AMAZING! How did you do that?
>>
>> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>>
>> On Jun 5, 2007, at 11:08 AM, Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>>
>>> I am trying to make a living with selling hand made Fantasy, Ghotic,
>>> Lolita, Japanese street wear inspired clothing on line and on  
>>> fantasy
>>> fairs here in the Netherlands.
>>> I also make wedding dresses And other costumes.
>>> The last order I did was 10 dance costumes for a piece called  
>>> Cabaret
>>> for a Jazz dance group.
>>> It was hard work but also a lot of fun.
>>> Oh I forget the 15 little skirts and tops for the little  
>>> children's who
>>> did a part from the musical Anny.
>>>
>>> I normally don't do historical costumes for others. They take too  
>>> much work.
>>> But I love to make them for myself. And of course fantasy costumes.
>>> The last one I made was a fast and low budget Corpse Bride.
>>> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Lijkje.jpg
>>> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/Lijkje2.jpg
>>>
>>> Since I started to make a living of it I don't make so much for  
>>> myself
>>> anymore.
>>> Right now I need to invest a lot of money and time to make it work.
>>>
>>> Greetings,
>>>       Deredere
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2007 08:25:39 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Off topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

A. Thurman wrote:

> I'm a web developer, computer usabilty/accessibilty person by day,
> costumer/researcher by evening/weekend. I do enjoy my job but it's not
> a passion, and it pays for the fabric :P

Snap! Web Developer at a university.

> I am curious how those of you who do serious construction and research
> find the time for your hobbies. I'm finding that in my own life I have
> to strictly set aside time and push myself because after 40 hours in
> the office sometimes I don't want to do *anything* when I get home,
> and counting on "in my free time I'll do x" just doesn't cut it.


*shrug*
I do things when I get to them, I guess.  I don't really have any fixed 
idea of how much of my hobby activities I should do, and I don't have a 
high rate of output.  Sometimes I get home from work and get a lot done, 
and sometimes I don't.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
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Status: RO

Well, they're not all taking that long. My husband lost his, and when we 
still had not found it three weeks before our November '06 trip to 
London, we expedited a new one and got it within ten days. (Guess what 
we found as soon as we got back?) Although, his was a replacement and 
not a new one.

If you're in a real hurry I recommend: http://www.passportsandvisas.com/

We used them in 99 for our honeymoon passports when the passport agent 
at the post office told us it was taking longer than 12 weeks for normal 
applications. As that was cutting it too close to the wedding, we paid 
the exorbitant rates to have them hand-carried through.


Dawn



khanson@kc.rr.com wrote:

> Right. I applied about 18 months ago for a passport, and paid for the 
> expedited service. They got it to me in a week under three months, 
> despite assuring me that the expedited service would get it to me in 
> less than two weeks. I missed a free 2-month-long trip to Europe 
> because of it. Yes, I'm still bitter about that one.
> 
> Talia

> 
> 
>>The passport agency has not even processed applications from 
>>January and 
>>February.  My son is supposed to leave this Sunday for Ireland and 
>>applied for a renewed passport on April 24th with using expedited 
>>service. 

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Status: RO

We applied for our passports at the post office this year (2 for adults that had expired passports and a new one for a minor) in early February and received them in May.
Wendy

-----Original Message-----
>From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>Sent: Jun 5, 2007 4:45 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
>
>Well, they're not all taking that long. My husband lost his, and when we 
>still had not found it three weeks before our November '06 trip to 
>London, we expedited a new one and got it within ten days. (Guess what 
>we found as soon as we got back?) Although, his was a replacement and 
>not a new one.
>
>If you're in a real hurry I recommend: http://www.passportsandvisas.com/
>
>We used them in 99 for our honeymoon passports when the passport agent 
>at the post office told us it was taking longer than 12 weeks for normal 
>applications. As that was cutting it too close to the wedding, we paid 
>the exorbitant rates to have them hand-carried through.
>
>
>Dawn

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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: Historical Costume List <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Status: RO

I called a friend of mine who happens to own a travel company, and explaine=
d to her the details. She will do some checking around for group rates, min=
imum of 10 travellers for accomodation and airfare and anything else we may=
 need to know about. When she gets back to me, I'll let you know. She said =
because it's so far in advance, we are more likely to get ball park estimat=
es for now, but its a starting point.=0A=0AKathy=0A =0AErmine, a lion rampa=
nt tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, =
slipped and leaved vert=0A(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head=
 erased gules. =0AIt=92s never too late to be who you might have been.=0A-G=
eorge Eliot=0ATosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of =
knowledge. =0AWhere the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art=
.=0A-Leonardo da Vinci=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      Ask a question on any topic a=
nd get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you kn=
ow at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 14:32:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

That's kinda amusing to me Rebecca...  not only do we
both have similar current day jobs as mommies, but I
used to be a guildmistress myself, but my husband will
never let me become one again! (I got too stressed out
sometimes). But thank goodness they love our
costuming, yes?

Kimiko


--- Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote:

> and now
> my husband is the
> Guildemaster for our guilde, I think he's OK with
> that ;)
> 
>
*******************************************************************
> Rebecca Schmitt



       
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <28016560.1181076565168.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 16:32:22 -0500
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Status: RO

My husband went through an agency in Plano Texas that got it back to him in 
a week. Yes, he paid extra for it but it was back in a _w e e k_.

My point is that there are services out there that are expediters, they are 
independent of the US Postal Service. They can get it done faster, I do not 
know how or why but they do.

Chiara

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wendy Colbert" <rapierlady@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI


> We applied for our passports at the post office this year (2 for adults 
> that had expired passports and a new one for a minor) in early February 
> and received them in May.
> Wendy
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>>Sent: Jun 5, 2007 4:45 PM
>>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
>>
>>Well, they're not all taking that long. My husband lost his, and when we
>>still had not found it three weeks before our November '06 trip to
>>London, we expedited a new one and got it within ten days. (Guess what
>>we found as soon as we got back?) Although, his was a replacement and
>>not a new one.
>>
>>If you're in a real hurry I recommend: http://www.passportsandvisas.com/
>>
>>We used them in 99 for our honeymoon passports when the passport agent
>>at the post office told us it was taking longer than 12 weeks for normal
>>applications. As that was cutting it too close to the wedding, we paid
>>the exorbitant rates to have them hand-carried through.
>>
>>
>>Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
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Status: RO

I have heard that if you go to the Passport office itself, you can walk it
through. That was years ago, don't know if it works today. 
My son applied for his first passport on May 3 of this year. It arrived in
the mail 8 days later.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of khanson@kc.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 1:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI


Right. I applied about 18 months ago for a passport, and paid for the 
expedited service. They got it to me in a week under three months, 
despite assuring me that the expedited service would get it to me in 
less than two weeks. I missed a free 2-month-long trip to Europe 
because of it. Yes, I'm still bitter about that one.

Talia

----- Original Message -----
From: Gail <ladysayher@adelphia.net>
Date: Tuesday, June 5, 2007 2:57 pm
Subject: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
To: h-costume@indra.com

> The passport agency has not even processed applications from 
> January and 
> February.  My son is supposed to leave this Sunday for Ireland and 
> applied for a renewed passport on April 24th with using expedited 
> service.  It has not arrived and I had to call the state 
> department task 
> force for passports to see what was going on.  It's still there 
> and they 
> have tagged it to be done but they cannot guarantee it will be 
> done and 
> here by the 9th.  So, if you need a passport you need to apply at 
> least 
> 6 months in advance if not more than that.
> 
> Sincerely,
> Lady Margaret
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florence 2008
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 21:07:57 -0400
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That's great, thank you for checking! If anyone's starting a list, =
please add me to it-- luckily, it falls between exhibition installations =
at work so I can go!!

Astrida Schaeffer

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Kathy Page
Sent: Tue 6/5/2007 4:46 PM
To: Historical Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Florence 2008
=20
I called a friend of mine who happens to own a travel company, and =
explained to her the details. She will do some checking around for group =
rates, minimum of 10 travellers for accomodation and airfare and =
anything else we may need to know about. When she gets back to me, I'll =
let you know. She said because it's so far in advance, we are more =
likely to get ball park estimates for now, but its a starting point.

Kathy
=20
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a =
rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules.=20
It's never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach e=F3lais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.=20
Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art.
-Leonardo da Vinci





      Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go =
to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor - SJ to Vallejo carpool
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Status: RO

Is anyone going from the South Bay area?  Feel the urge to carpool?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

PS. to answer the "day job" question: I'm the Treasurer of a local
political campaign. Background is CS/Math & MBA.  The costumes are,
like vintage dance, my artistic outlet.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?; Was: robe a	la
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Status: RO

My background was theatrical costume (MA and BA in theatre. ) 25 years as a
fashion designer-- primarily swimwear (bathing suits), gowns, kids clothes
and mens pull-over jackets. Now I teach fashion: sewing, fashion history etc
in a college.
 For fun-- when I'm not writing, I make 16th C clothes for my husband and me
for the SCA.
Monica
(Baroness Catriona MacDuff OL, OP in the SCA)



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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

I loved this topic when it came around years ago... then, if I remember 
correctly, there were a lot of computer programmers on this list.  It is fun 
to see what everyone does.

Again,  I am taking a few minutes from grading papers and tests for my 
three-week fashion history class summer semester  that covers 1830-1970s. 
My best class description this is fashion history on speed.  I find myself 
talking so fast, I am reverting back to my Southern Mississippi accent by 
blending the end of a word into the beginning of the next word.  LOL, my 
students ask, "How is that word spelled?"  I am getting really good spelling 
fashion terms out to my students.  Grades go in next Tuesday and then my 
week long party starts for my 50th birthday!

I want to show you all some photos of my two students today.  We had a guest 
speaker who furnishes wardrobes for films in Virginia.  She dressed some of 
my students in costumes.  My students were thrilled to the point of being 
silly and giggly.  It is one thing to show them an image or costume.  I 
wanted them to know what it feels like to wear the costume.
http://www.costumegallery.com/VCU/summer/P1050840lg.jpg
http://www.costumegallery.com/VCU/summer/P1050842lg.jpg
These two ladies came back in class and grabbed their Jackie-O style 
sunglasses.  They went around the main area of the campus with their 
sunglasses on pretending to be movie stars.  They went to the area of the 
campus with the university's 5-foot tall initials, VCU, and people were 
taking their photographs.  What hams!!!  Two weeks ago they didn't know what 
a crinoline hoop or bustle dress was!

I went into professional costume 10 years ago in my senior year (decade  #3) 
of college.  Back then the IRS didn't not have a title for my category of 
business.  Now it is web publishing.  I do a little bit of everything but 
sit behind a sewing machine.  I own the Gallery websites, teach online 
through my business and as an adjunct professor, professional dressing, and 
research for various instutions and forms of communication sources.   This 
past year I have expanded into photographing large costume collections to go 
online.  I just go with the flow.

I never get away from my business since everyone wears clothing.  I cover 
all areas of fashion past, present, and future.  Even on vacation I can't 
get away. While crabbing on Virginia's Eastern Shore, I am watching what the 
fisherman are wearing and the bathing suits on the beach.  My only time away 
is floating down the James River on a tube.

Generally I work until 5 or 6 am.  I go to bed when England is at work.  I 
started these hours when a college student,  the last decade.  I can get a 
week of  9-5pm work accomplished in one day of midnight to 6 am.  Everyday 
for the first week of this summer class, I would walk in and state, "Do you 
know I hate mornings!"  My class is 9 am to noon.   A friend did her 
master's thesis on people's creativity level and sleep hours.  Her 
conclusion was that most creative people do their best work after midnight.

Off to eat dinner and back to grading papers.   Thanks for the fun!  LOL, I 
refuse to check my spelling or grammar in this message... I am saving it for 
my students' papers.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

_______________________________________________
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
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Status: RO

You can still do this in the Houston Texas office.  There's a phone
line you can call to get an appointment, but there's no guarantee
you'll get an appointment.  I've had one co-worker who went to Houston
and got his done in one day.  Another spent the money on a service and
couldn't get the passport for his newborn daughter.  With less than
two days to the flight home to Morocco they took the baby to stand in
the lines at the passport office.  He said it took a couple of hours,
but they got the passport.

another friend whose daughter travels regularly every summer said that
she was warned that if the passport is within six months of
expiration, you can't leave the country on it.

alex

On 6/5/07, Sharon Collier <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> I have heard that if you go to the Passport office itself, you can walk it
> through. That was years ago, don't know if it works today.
> My son applied for his first passport on May 3 of this year. It arrived in
> the mail 8 days later.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of khanson@kc.rr.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 1:07 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
>
>
> Right. I applied about 18 months ago for a passport, and paid for the
> expedited service. They got it to me in a week under three months,
> despite assuring me that the expedited service would get it to me in
> less than two weeks. I missed a free 2-month-long trip to Europe
> because of it. Yes, I'm still bitter about that one.
>
> Talia
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gail <ladysayher@adelphia.net>
> Date: Tuesday, June 5, 2007 2:57 pm
> Subject: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
> To: h-costume@indra.com
>
> > The passport agency has not even processed applications from
> > January and
> > February.  My son is supposed to leave this Sunday for Ireland and
> > applied for a renewed passport on April 24th with using expedited
> > service.  It has not arrived and I had to call the state
> > department task
> > force for passports to see what was going on.  It's still there
> > and they
> > have tagged it to be done but they cannot guarantee it will be
> > done and
> > here by the 9th.  So, if you need a passport you need to apply at
> > least
> > 6 months in advance if not more than that.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Lady Margaret
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
I can handle anything that life throws at me.
I may not be able to handle it well, or correctly, or gracefully, or
with finesse, or expediently
-- but I will handle it.
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
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Status: RO


On Jun 5, 2007, at 2:47 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

> I have heard that if you go to the Passport office itself, you can  
> walk it
> through. That was years ago, don't know if it works today.
> My son applied for his first passport on May 3 of this year. It  
> arrived in
> the mail 8 days later.

(WIth the understanding that this is all relevant only to U.S. list  
members ....)

This is true -- however when I was trying to get a passport in a  
hurry back in March, the earliest one could get the required advance  
appointment was a month in the future.  (I ended up going the  
expedited-by-mail route and received my passport within IIRC three  
weeks.  Alas, in the mean time, my company decided not to send me off  
on a business trip to Puerto Rico and England after all.)

There's a general take-home message:  if you think there's the  
slightest chance that you might have occasion to travel outside the  
country -- ever -- go ahead and apply for a passport now when a long  
delay won't ruin any plans.

Heather

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From: Chris Bertani <chrisber@idiom.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

On 04 Jun 2007, Jennifer Byrne wrote:
> I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list do
> not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living.  Is this true?
> If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build historical clothing?

I suppose this is as good a time as any to delurk...

I work for a biotech company in Silicon Valley.  Paying for my sewing
hobby comes out of our budget along with everything else.  Finding time
to sew is more difficult, especially with a new baby, but deadlines,
mostly SF conventions, do wonders, as does having a very patient wife.

I've been fascinated by history since I was a child, starting with the
English Regency and spreading outwards.  The need to build historical
clothing sprang from this, though I've only been sewing properly for a
few years now.

I too find Bjarne a great inspiration.

-- Chris Bertani
http://www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes/
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Subject: [h-cost] What's your day job?;
	Was: robe a la francaise grande panier.
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Status: RO

I make theater costumes for our local high school and community theater. 
True it would not support me if I had to live off the income but the small 
amount I do make lets me buy better fabrics to make gowns for sale in other 
places.

_________________________________________________________________
Get a preview of Live Earth, the hottest event this summer - only on MSN 
http://liveearth.msn.com?source=msntaglineliveearthhm

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Welcome Chris! Glad you decided to delurk and
introduce yourself, and provide an interesting website
of photos. Very nice outfits you are wearing. Are you
a member of GBACG by any chance?

Kimiko
www.kimiko1.com


--- Chris Bertani <chrisber@idiom.com> wrote:
> I suppose this is as good a time as any to delurk...
> 
> I work for a biotech company in Silicon Valley. 
> Paying for my sewing
> hobby comes out of our budget along with everything
> else.  Finding time
> to sew is more difficult, especially with a new
> baby, but deadlines,
> mostly SF conventions, do wonders, as does having a
> very patient wife.
> 
> I've been fascinated by history since I was a child,
> starting with the
> English Regency and spreading outwards.  The need to
> build historical
> clothing sprang from this, though I've only been
> sewing properly for a
> few years now.
> 
> I too find Bjarne a great inspiration.
> 
> -- Chris Bertani
> http://www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes/



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Luggage? GPS? Comic books? 
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] About Passports Just FYI
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Status: RO

Alexandria Doyle wrote:

> 
> another friend whose daughter travels regularly every summer said that
> she was warned that if the passport is within six months of
> expiration, you can't leave the country on it.

It's a little different than that, there are some countries that require 
your passport to be valid for 6 months past the date of your trip. You 
won't be denied travel out of the US, or back in, but you may not be 
allowed into other countries. I don't know off hand which ones they are.

It's always a good idea to know what's expected at the other end of your 
trip. Nobody wants to get stuck in a foreign country without a valid 
passport.



Dawn




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From: Jodi Nelson <faerieglenstudios@yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

An investigative reporter in Salt Lake City was asked by a viewer to check on her passport woes. He found out there are several passport  offices around the country. If you set an appointment with them , go in personally, you can get  your passport in a couple of weeks.  I'll have to  check back on the website  for the details if anyone wants  it.

Jodi 

       
---------------------------------
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. 
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From: Chris Bertani <chrisber@idiom.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

On 05 Jun 2007, Kimiko Small wrote:

> Welcome Chris! Glad you decided to delurk and
> introduce yourself, and provide an interesting website
> of photos. Very nice outfits you are wearing. Are you
> a member of GBACG by any chance?

I have been a memeber of GBACG in the past, and am still on the email
list, but I've let my membership lapse in favor of Silicon Web to
maintain ICG membership.

Your livejournal name looks familar; we must know people in common.

-- Chris 

> www.kimiko1.com
> 
> 
> --- Chris Bertani <chrisber@idiom.com> wrote:
> > I suppose this is as good a time as any to delurk...
> > 
> > I work for a biotech company in Silicon Valley. 
> > Paying for my sewing
> > hobby comes out of our budget along with everything
> > else.  Finding time
> > to sew is more difficult, especially with a new
> > baby, but deadlines,
> > mostly SF conventions, do wonders, as does having a
> > very patient wife.
> > 
> > I've been fascinated by history since I was a child,
> > starting with the
> > English Regency and spreading outwards.  The need to
> > build historical
> > clothing sprang from this, though I've only been
> > sewing properly for a
> > few years now.
> > 
> > I too find Bjarne a great inspiration.
> > 
> > -- Chris Bertani
> > http://www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes/
> 
> 
> 
>       ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Luggage? GPS? Comic books? 
> Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Status: RO

I'm a dinosaur computer programmer - assembler language on a giant 
mainframe.  Been doing that for 28 years.  Yes, there are still some 
things that mainframes do better and faster than anything 
else.  Hubby is a stockroom coordinator (aka Jack-of-all-trades) for 
a retail store.

We do primarily fantasy/science fiction costuming, mostly original 
designs.  A large number of them have a historical or ethnic design 
base, so stuff we learn here is valuable.  Stuff gets done in 
evenings and weekends, we work slowly, and many times there is a 
last-minute scramble to finish before an event.  We have no kids, but 
5 cats do demand their share of time.

Sandy (and Pierre)

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Status: RO

I am a policy wonk for a federal agency in DC.
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Status: RO

>Message: 13
>Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 20:55:43 -0400
>From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?; Was: robe a la
>francaise grande panier.
>To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <000101c7a70c$3ed633e0$367ee648@ByrneComputer>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>2 months is an impressively short amount of time for such a project!

>I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list do
>not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living.  Is this true?
>If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build historical clothing?


I am a mathematician. I work as a government statistician. That plus three
kiddies (I have a new little man, only 15 weeks old) take up most of
the time I used to have for costuming. This is a shame, because before
I had the job and the kids (they arrived more or less at the same time)
I was a student, and had the time but not the money for costuming. Now
I have money, but no time :-).

Mostly I do 14th, 15th and 16th century English clothing. I have grand
plans to delve into other eras, but I suspect they will have to wait until
the kids are older.

Claire 

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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<7.0.1.0.2.20070605082608.02691318@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2007 07:49:24 -0400
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Status: RO

Suzi:  I would love to see the costumes you talk about but I am not sure
where they are on this site.  Are they part of the Downloads: Demo?  I think
those are PowerPoint projects so I will have to get to a computer with that
software.  Thanks!

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 3:28 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?

At 01:59 05/06/2007, you wrote:

>For the Italian costuming enthusiasts:
>
>http://www.costume-textiles.com/index.htm
>
>--Robin

The promo on the site shows costumes I made, and Janet approved!! I 
would love to go, but hate to think what the cost will be.

Suzi

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
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Status: RO

At 12:49 06/06/2007, you wrote:
>Suzi:  I would love to see the costumes you talk about but I am not sure
>where they are on this site.  Are they part of the Downloads: Demo?  I think
>those are PowerPoint projects so I will have to get to a computer with that
>software.  Thanks!
>
>Jenn

Jenn

They are on the demo, which plays on my computer without any extra 
software. Right at the end there are some photos, one of which is the 
gentleman in a copy of the Sture suit, In the photo to its right, 
there is a lady in black, whose costume I also made. They were taken 
at the memorial held for Janet at the Globe Theatre, not long after her death.

This, if it shows, is the gentleman in a photo I took on the same occasion.

http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/images/sture_suit_1560.jpg

It is on the Gallery of my web site - www.suziclarke.co.uk  quite a 
way through.

Suzi

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  6 08:24:26 2007
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Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2007 08:19:25 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
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Status: RO

They are great costumes, Suzi. It is nice to see Ms. Arnold's work in "the
flesh" and used by costumers. Your website is quite impressive.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 8:05 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?


At 12:49 06/06/2007, you wrote:
>Suzi:  I would love to see the costumes you talk about but I am not sure
>where they are on this site.  Are they part of the Downloads: Demo?  I
think
>those are PowerPoint projects so I will have to get to a computer with that
>software.  Thanks!
>
>Jenn

Jenn

They are on the demo, which plays on my computer without any extra
software. Right at the end there are some photos, one of which is the
gentleman in a copy of the Sture suit, In the photo to its right,
there is a lady in black, whose costume I also made. They were taken
at the memorial held for Janet at the Globe Theatre, not long after her
death.

This, if it shows, is the gentleman in a photo I took on the same occasion.

http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/images/sture_suit_1560.jpg

It is on the Gallery of my web site - www.suziclarke.co.uk  quite a
way through.

Suzi

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Status: RO

Me too!

Jane Pease wrote:
> I am a policy wonk for a federal agency in DC.
> _______________________________________________
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>   
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Frau Anna Bleucher <bleucher@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

I'm a custom embroiderer focusing on replication of period designs 
and heraldry. I started the business because I wanted to be at home 
with my daughter and also contribute a little toward our hobbies. In 
a former life I was a technical writer and document management 
specialist. While I do all sorts of embroidery depending on what my 
customers request, my passion is recreating designs from surviving 
documentation and apparel.

Connie


Wyvern Productions
Painting masterpieces in thread.
http://www.wyvernproductions.com

Das Nachtjager Fahnlein
http://www.wyvernproductions.com/landsknecht/

"Things turn out best for those that make the best of the way things 
turn out."   - Art Linkletter


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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10706041958110.24380-100000@shell.nightowl.net><7.0.1.0.2.20070605082608.02691318@suziclarke.co.uk><001001c7a830$bac7c7a0$367ee648@ByrneComputer>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2007 09:48:57 -0400
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Status: RO

FYI  The first link does not seem to work.  Going to the second link &
clicking on 16th century gets you there just fine.

Anne


Jenn

They are on the demo, which plays on my computer without any extra 
software. Right at the end there are some photos, one of which is the 
gentleman in a copy of the Sture suit, In the photo to its right, 
there is a lady in black, whose costume I also made. They were taken 
at the memorial held for Janet at the Globe Theatre, not long after her
death.

This, if it shows, is the gentleman in a photo I took on the same occasion.

http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/images/sture_suit_1560.jpg

It is on the Gallery of my web site - www.suziclarke.co.uk  quite a 
way through.

Suzi


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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Off Topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO

I'm a translator (French to English), but I studied and worked as a
computer programmer before I had a change of heart. I still take care
of the computer problems at work, and do all application support
inside the (small) company.

I do less costuming now, because I've become interested in fishkeeping
lately. We're still stuck with our 10 gallon aquarium, but will
upgrade to a 30 gallon soon and hope to move to saltwater in a couple
of years.

Costumes? Well... I'm hoping that, after I move (in three weeks! first
time I won't be living with my parents), I can go back to working on
that. I'm interested in all eras (almost) and places (almost)!
Medieval, Elizabethan, Empire, 1920s to 1960s, a few other eras
sprinkled in between, Japanese and Chinese garb too...

Where do I find the time? Well... when I want to sew, I turn off the
computer and the TV. Then I start walking in circles in the house
looking for something to do, and fall back either to cleaning the
basement/sewing room or actually sewing :-) (Well, that is, when I
don't get sucked into one of the FIMO, knitting, origami, cooking,
translating, weaving, etc. projects!).
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Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2007 13:42:20 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florence in 2008?
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Status: RO

At 13:19 06/06/2007, you wrote:
>They are great costumes, Suzi. It is nice to see Ms. Arnold's work in "the
>flesh" and used by costumers. Your website is quite impressive.
>Monica


Thank you - I appreciate your kind words. I was lucky enough to have 
great tutors.

Suzi


>They are on the demo, which plays on my computer without any extra
>software. Right at the end there are some photos, one of which is the
>gentleman in a copy of the Sture suit, In the photo to its right,
>there is a lady in black, whose costume I also made. They were taken
>at the memorial held for Janet at the Globe Theatre, not long after her
>death.
>
>This, if it shows, is the gentleman in a photo I took on the same occasion.
>
>http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/images/sture_suit_1560.jpg
>
>It is on the Gallery of my web site - www.suziclarke.co.uk  quite a
>way through.
>
>Suzi
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<6.2.3.4.2.20070605233030.0329b380@pop.radiks.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Off Topic: What's your day job?
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2007 09:57:44 -0400
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Status: RO


> We have no kids, but 
>5 cats do demand their share of time.


Try 15 cats!!!!!

Anne  (retired fro Ma Bell but still works part time for Lillian Vernon)

No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Status: RO

I am a stay at home mom. I have a BA in Technical Theatre and a Limited
Service Teaching Credential for Calif. Comm. Colleges. I have worked in
community theatre since graduating from college in 1976. Sometimes, I =
even
got paid! I've done all aspects of theatre over the years-tech, acting,
directing, producing. While I was in a Shakespeare production in 2002, =
other
members of the cast were talking about Ren Faire. I said I'd always =
wanted
to participate, but didn't know how. They dragged me along that year and
I've been hooked ever since. For one thing, I get to act a lot more than
when I have a small (okay, TINY) role in a regular show. Plus, I get to
create my own costume.
 I've recently started Renaissance dancing lessons.The renaissance dance
lessons are FREE, in Alameda, CA, on Tuesday nights, if any of you would =
be
interested.
I  attend PEERS events, (costumed period dances).
In November-December, I am an actor in The Great Dickens Christmas Fair. =
I
play Mrs. Nickleby. I put in many hours at my son's school, which has a
parent participation requirement.=20
And I garden. I've just finished re-doing my front yard. It is now a
tropical jungle.=20
Sharon Collier
=20
=20

Young lovers seek perfection,
Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together
And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches

=20

                    - "How To Make An American Quilt"

=20
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Status: RO

I am a stay-at-home, homeschooling mom who is also a historical novelist. 
Since having been bitten by the theater bug while working at the Theater at 
Monmouth (aka the Shakespearian theater of Maine), I became interested in 
historical clothing and worked as a costumer for many seasons (pre-kids). 
Now, I am working on an Empire gown, circa 1795 - 1805, and hope to finish 
it properly before the end of the millennium. I have also made two other 
items from Janet Arnold's books: a Spencer and a circa 1940 evening gown.

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 12:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Day job


I am a stay at home mom. I have a BA in Technical Theatre and a Limited
Service Teaching Credential for Calif. Comm. Colleges. I have worked in
community theatre since graduating from college in 1976. Sometimes, I even
got paid! I've done all aspects of theatre over the years-tech, acting,
directing, producing. While I was in a Shakespeare production in 2002, other
members of the cast were talking about Ren Faire. I said I'd always wanted
to participate, but didn't know how. They dragged me along that year and
I've been hooked ever since. For one thing, I get to act a lot more than
when I have a small (okay, TINY) role in a regular show. Plus, I get to
create my own costume.
 I've recently started Renaissance dancing lessons.The renaissance dance
lessons are FREE, in Alameda, CA, on Tuesday nights, if any of you would be
interested.
I  attend PEERS events, (costumed period dances).
In November-December, I am an actor in The Great Dickens Christmas Fair. I
play Mrs. Nickleby. I put in many hours at my son's school, which has a
parent participation requirement.
And I garden. I've just finished re-doing my front yard. It is now a
tropical jungle.
Sharon Collier



Young lovers seek perfection,
Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together
And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches



                    - "How To Make An American Quilt"


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] DC area :)
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Status: RO

I'm not a policy wonk, but I AM in the DC burbs (NIH contractor) -
didn't realize that there were other local people here!

Astoundingly late notice, but there's a talk by Carole Collier Frick
tonight at the National Museum of Women in the Arts downtown:

http://www.nmwa.org/calendar/detail.asp?eventId=615

I will be there - will anyone else be?

Allison T.

On 6/6/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2007 08:47:50 -0400
> From: Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee <brennasca@erols.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your Day Job?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <4666ACF6.7000905@erols.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Me too!
>
> Jane Pease wrote:
> > I am a policy wonk for a federal agency in DC.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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Status: RO

If anyone is starting a list to coordinate activites, I would like to
be included. The odds of my being able to go are slim, but one never
knows.

Allison T.
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Alright, here it is.

Let's start planning!

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Traveling4Costumers

Chiara
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] DC area :)
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At 02:07 PM 6/6/2007, you wrote:

>I'm not a policy wonk, but I AM in the DC burbs (NIH contractor) -
>didn't realize that there were other local people here!


I'm not in DC, but not too horrendously far--I am in York, PA.

Dianne


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Off topic: What's your day job?
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Status: RO


On Tue, 5 Jun 2007, A. Thurman wrote:

> I am curious how those of you who do serious construction and research
> find the time for your hobbies.

But that assumes we *do* find the time!

Right now I'm eliminating large chunks of sleep and, to some extent,
meals. I don't know how long I can keep it up (it's been some months now),
but on the bright side, I've lost 22 pounds.

--Robin
(And Allison knows exactly how busy I've been because I promised her
something more than a year ago...)


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Status: RO


A friend recommends this:

Title: Needlework through History

Author : Catherine Amoroso Leslie

http://www.greenwood.com/catalog/GR3548.aspx


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT day job (cats)
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Good lord, and I thought we were getting carried away by taking in a local  
stray & bringing it up to 3!!!!!!!
 
:o)
 
 
 
In a message dated 06/06/2007 19:01:33 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Try 15  cats!!!!!

Anne  (retired fro Ma Bell but still works part time for  Lillian Vernon)


 



   
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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Off Topic: What's your day job?
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2007 06:18:48 -0400
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Status: RO

Audrey:

Je parle fran=E7ais mais seulement un peu (malheureusement).  I am the =
tech
support for our family and have given my IT people more than one =
headache
for poking around in the computer where I oughtn't.  Did the aquarium =
thing
up to a 45 gallon bowfront at work and 2 20 gallons at home - keeping =
fancy
goldfish mainly.  That was great fun but I have no tanks at present.  I =
love
to knit, have done origami in the past and now my harp is my current =
passion
but it runs neck and neck with historical clothing.   I'm in the thick =
of
making a likeness of a 16th century Saxon gown in the style of Lucas =
Cranach
for my daughter.  I tend to jump in with both feet into these projects!

In a play on an old phrase I call myself a 'Jenny of all trades, and a
mistress to none.'  You sound like that too - isn't it fun!

Jennifer   =20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 12:22 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Off Topic: What's your day job?

I'm a translator (French to English), but I studied and worked as a
computer programmer before I had a change of heart. I still take care
of the computer problems at work, and do all application support
inside the (small) company.

I do less costuming now, because I've become interested in fishkeeping
lately. We're still stuck with our 10 gallon aquarium, but will
upgrade to a 30 gallon soon and hope to move to saltwater in a couple
of years.

Costumes? Well... I'm hoping that, after I move (in three weeks! first
time I won't be living with my parents), I can go back to working on
that. I'm interested in all eras (almost) and places (almost)!
Medieval, Elizabethan, Empire, 1920s to 1960s, a few other eras
sprinkled in between, Japanese and Chinese garb too...

Where do I find the time? Well... when I want to sew, I turn off the
computer and the TV. Then I start walking in circles in the house
looking for something to do, and fall back either to cleaning the
basement/sewing room or actually sewing :-) (Well, that is, when I
don't get sucked into one of the FIMO, knitting, origami, cooking,
translating, weaving, etc. projects!).
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: OT day job (cats)
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Status: RO

3!!!!   Bwahahaha!!!  I don't even remember what 3 was like :)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 6:36 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT day job (cats)

 
Good lord, and I thought we were getting carried away by taking in a local  
stray & bringing it up to 3!!!!!!!
 
:o)
 
 
 
In a message dated 06/06/2007 19:01:33 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Try 15  cats!!!!!

Anne  (retired fro Ma Bell but still works part time for  Lillian Vernon)


 



   
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No virus found in this incoming message.
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Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007
2:03 PM
 

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From: Etiennette@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: OT day job (cats)
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2007 13:51:49 +0000
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Status: RO

hehe :)

You sound like my Mom a few years ago.  She lived in a small town in Montana.  Everyone knew that she liked cats, and they kept dropping cats off at her door step.  I think she was up to about 18 at one point.   Luckily folks donated cat food to her as well.  I think she also had 8 rabbits at the time as well.

When she moved out the coast, she managed to find homes for all of them and now only has one.  She says she misses them all, but is glad the work load is down, she is in her 60's.

Etiennette
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
> 3!!!!   Bwahahaha!!!  I don't even remember what 3 was like :)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 6:36 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT day job (cats)
> 
>  
> Good lord, and I thought we were getting carried away by taking in a local  
> stray & bringing it up to 3!!!!!!!
>  
> :o)
>  
>  
>  
> In a message dated 06/06/2007 19:01:33 GMT Standard Time,  
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
> 
> Try 15  cats!!!!!
> 
> Anne  (retired fro Ma Bell but still works part time for  Lillian Vernon)
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
>    
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
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> 2:03 PM
>  
> 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
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> 2:03 PM
>  
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2007 15:00:26 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT day job (cats)
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Status: RO

At 23:36 06/06/2007, you wrote:
>
>Good lord, and I thought we were getting carried away by taking in a local
>stray & bringing it up to 3!!!!!!!
>
>:o)
>
>  And every single one of them is beautiful - she's a meanie and 
> wouldn't let us bring a few home - she wouldn't miss a few, I'm sure!!

Suzi

>
>In a message dated 06/06/2007 19:01:33 GMT Standard Time,
>h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>Try 15  cats!!!!!
>
>Anne  (retired fro Ma Bell but still works part time for  Lillian Vernon)

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <c88.130f0726.339890dc@aol.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20070607145920.027145f8@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: OT day job (cats)
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Status: RO

But, but, but You wanted to take Taz and Mr. Spock!!! You were also making
eyes at Deanna!  Besides, I truly doubt that Shadow would have thrilled  :)

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:00 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT day job (cats)

At 23:36 06/06/2007, you wrote:
>
>Good lord, and I thought we were getting carried away by taking in a local
>stray & bringing it up to 3!!!!!!!
>
>:o)
>
>  And every single one of them is beautiful - she's a meanie and 
> wouldn't let us bring a few home - she wouldn't miss a few, I'm sure!!

Suzi

>
>In a message dated 06/06/2007 19:01:33 GMT Standard Time,
>h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>Try 15  cats!!!!!
>
>Anne  (retired fro Ma Bell but still works part time for  Lillian Vernon)

_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007
2:03 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007
2:03 PM
 

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Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2007 18:24:39 -0400
From: "Sharon Henderson" <henderson.sharon@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: DC :-)
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Status: RO

Brenna!!!  {{{glomps}}}

Wow, all sorts of folks here I didn't realize were around, but should
not be surprised...  :-)

My day job is being a business analyst and tech writer for a small
military consulting firm in the VA 'burbs; my night job is being a
priest in charge of a small congregation in No. VA... the rest of the
time I costume and try to sleep.  *g*

Maybe we should have a Suburban DC costuming day or something!  :-)

Meli ferch Iasper,
AKA Sharon Henderson

Jerry/Brenna wrote:

> Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2007 08:47:50 -0400
> From: Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee <brennasca@erols.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your Day Job?

> Me too!
>
> Jane Pease wrote:
> > I am a policy wonk for a federal agency in DC.
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Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2007 21:05:59 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: DC :-)
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 6/7/2007 8:27:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
henderson.sharon@gmail.com writes:

Wow, all  sorts of folks here I didn't realize were around, but should
not be  surprised...  :-)


Guess I should weigh in--I live and work inside the Beltway (I think you  
have to be in the DC area to understand that), in Riverdale, Maryland.  I'm  the 
historian, one of two full-time staff, at Riversdale, an early 19th century  
historic house museum.  So I work for local, not federal, government.  
 
Ann Wass



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From: Margo Anderson <lists@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] upcoming book
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2007 19:23:22 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

>
> Title: The Worldwide History of Dress: the Origins of Fashion from  
> the Paleolithic to the Present.

Wow!  Nothing like a narrow, specific focus. I look forward to seeing  
how they did this in 608 pages.

Margo
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book
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Status: RO

I'm looking forward to the 1000 color pics. Mine is on order at Amazon. I
would kill to get a GOOD fashion history text for my students. I hate the
one we are using.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] upcoming book


>
> Title: The Worldwide History of Dress: the Origins of Fashion from
> the Paleolithic to the Present.

Wow!  Nothing like a narrow, specific focus. I look forward to seeing
how they did this in 608 pages.

Margo
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Status: RO

I can't find it listed at Amazon.  Did you find it under another name?


Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- monicaspence@optonline.net wrote:

From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc:
Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2007 22:38:16 -0400

I'm looking forward to the 1000 color pics. Mine is on order at Amazon. I
would kill to get a GOOD fashion history text for my students. I hate the
one we are using.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] upcoming book


>
> Title: The Worldwide History of Dress: the Origins of Fashion from
> the Paleolithic to the Present.

Wow!  Nothing like a narrow, specific focus. I look forward to seeing
how they did this in 608 pages.

Margo
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Status: RO

Mayhap we should.  Who's up for it?

Sharon Henderson wrote:
> Brenna!!!  {{{glomps}}}
>
> Wow, all sorts of folks here I didn't realize were around, but should
> not be surprised...  :-)
>
> My day job is being a business analyst and tech writer for a small
> military consulting firm in the VA 'burbs; my night job is being a
> priest in charge of a small congregation in No. VA... the rest of the
> time I costume and try to sleep.  *g*
>
> Maybe we should have a Suburban DC costuming day or something!  :-)
>
> Meli ferch Iasper,
> AKA Sharon Henderson
>
> Jerry/Brenna wrote:
>
>> Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2007 08:47:50 -0400
>> From: Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee <brennasca@erols.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your Day Job?
>
>> Me too!
>>
>> Jane Pease wrote:
>> > I am a policy wonk for a federal agency in DC.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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Status: RO

Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee wrote:
> Mayhap we should.  Who's up for it?


	me! me! as long as a scooter can get in whereever.

	-Judy Mitchell (lurking and feeling grumpy after seeing the orthopedist 
today)
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Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2007 23:21:25 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book
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Status: RO


Try: The Worldwide History of Dress. When I ordered the book I just cut and pasted the title from here and it came up.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Lalah
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book


I can't find it listed at Amazon.  Did you find it under another name?


Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- monicaspence@optonline.net wrote:

From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc:
Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2007 22:38:16 -0400

I'm looking forward to the 1000 color pics. Mine is on order at Amazon. I
would kill to get a GOOD fashion history text for my students. I hate the
one we are using.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] upcoming book


>
> Title: The Worldwide History of Dress: the Origins of Fashion from
> the Paleolithic to the Present.

Wow!  Nothing like a narrow, specific focus. I look forward to seeing
how they did this in 608 pages.

Margo
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_____________________________________________________________
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Status: RO

Out of curiosity, what are you using now? And what are you teaching, stage
costume or historical?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 7:38 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book


I'm looking forward to the 1000 color pics. Mine is on order at Amazon. I
would kill to get a GOOD fashion history text for my students. I hate the
one we are using.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] upcoming book


>
> Title: The Worldwide History of Dress: the Origins of Fashion from
> the Paleolithic to the Present.

Wow!  Nothing like a narrow, specific focus. I look forward to seeing
how they did this in 608 pages.

Margo
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Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 06:36:07 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: DC :-)
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 6/7/2007 11:11:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
brennasca@erols.com writes:

>  Maybe we should have a Suburban DC costuming day or something!   :-)



I could probably host something at Riversdale, as long as our numbers  aren't 
too large.  But it would have to wait until fall.
 
Ann Wass



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book
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Status: RO

Hi Sharon--
"Survey of Historic Costume"  by Tortora and Eubank, 4th Ed. (ugh) I teach
Historic clothing.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 2:23 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book


Out of curiosity, what are you using now? And what are you teaching, stage
costume or historical?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 7:38 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book


I'm looking forward to the 1000 color pics. Mine is on order at Amazon. I
would kill to get a GOOD fashion history text for my students. I hate the
one we are using.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] upcoming book


>
> Title: The Worldwide History of Dress: the Origins of Fashion from
> the Paleolithic to the Present.

Wow!  Nothing like a narrow, specific focus. I look forward to seeing
how they did this in 608 pages.

Margo
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: DC :-)
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Status: RO

> Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee wrote:
>> Mayhap we should.  Who's up for it?
>
>
> 	me! me! as long as a scooter can get in whereever.
>
> 	-Judy Mitchell (lurking and feeling grumpy after seeing the 
> orthopedist today)

Me too! Since I work 2 buildings downhill from Jerry it should work out. 
Although I'm a scientist at headquarters, which makes me a hybrid policy 
person.

Joanna Dionne
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Subject: [h-cost] ? on library search and article databases (Althea Turner)
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Status: RO

I can't find that CIBA Review currently exists.  My sources don't show
what years it was pubbed, though my (admittedly erratic) memory seems to
be telling me it did exist.  However, CIBA Journal ran from 1957 - 1993.
It was indexed in Chemical Abstracts; in Textile Technology Index
(1973-1989); & in World Textile Abstracts.  Also indexed in the
International Management Information Business Digest.  Good Luck finding
a library that carries them, we certainly don't.  <still mourning the
loss of our Chem Abs subscription>  Former titles: Ciba-Geigy Journal
(Switzerland) (0366-5380); Ciba Journal (Switzerland) (0007-8395)

All this info is from a WONDERFUL source called Ulrichsweb.  If your
home library doesn't have it, or the print version called _Ulrich's
Periodicals Directory_, send me the name of the magazine or journal you
are interested in, and I'll look up the indexing for you.  But, hurry,
my electronic subscription will be running out soon, and it's MUCH
faster to do this kind of thing electronically than in the dead trees
version.

If you send your question to the email address below, I'll get the
question faster than if you send it to the list.

Your enabling periodicals pusher,

Mary Piero Carey

Periodicals Department
Stark County District Library
715 Market Ave. N.
Canton, Ohio  44702-1018   (330)452-0665 x 5750
mcarey@starklibrary.org

We don't have issues... we have subscriptions.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ? on library search and article databases (Althea Turner)
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 6/8/2007 7:42:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
mdcarey@compuserve.com writes:

I can't  find that CIBA Review currently exists.  My sources don't show
what  years it was pubbed, though my (admittedly erratic) memory seems to
be  telling me it did exist.


Our campus library seems to have it from the first issue, in 1937, to  
1957--it seems to have ended then.  I thought I had seen an index in the  journal 
itself--no help if you are trying to search on-line, but if you have  access to 
the bound volumes, you could look.
 
Ann Wass



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Status: RO

Hi folks...

I've finally gotten the brown kirtle pretty much done. Yay me! I tried
it on for a final fitting the other night to get the hem dealt with,
and I'll be, it fit. It actually fit very, very well. And it did what
I wanted it to do.

The problem, as you will see in the photo is the sleeves. It seems
that I have taken a) too long to sew this dress together and b) that
my weight training regime really is working. In short, my arms are too
large for the sleeves. I do have a couple of ideas of how to fix that,
but I  thought I would ask here, just in case someone else has a
better idea before I get started.

The armhole is fine, the problem is that I have increased the size of
my biceps by a full inch, and also increased the size of my forearm by
about 1/2".   And the dress was cut with skin tight arms, with the
buttons placed on the outer edge of the opening.

And one other note, I have learned that when you are experimenting,
for goodness sake don't hand-sew. Save the 100% hand-sewn love and
attention for things that are *not* experiments. You would think I
would know that by now, you would think I would know that by now.

There is a photo up, it can give you an idea of the problem, but not much more.
http://evilapprentice.livejournal.com/

Suggestions?
Thanks,
Mari
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From: " Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book
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Status: RO

Thanks.  I don't know why it didn't work the first time, but I guess I gave them too much information.  Cut and Paste worked just fine.
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- monicaspence@optonline.net wrote:

From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc:
Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2007 23:21:25 -0400


Try: The Worldwide History of Dress. When I ordered the book I just cut and pasted the title from here and it came up.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Lalah
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book


I can't find it listed at Amazon.  Did you find it under another name?


Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- monicaspence@optonline.net wrote:

From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc:
Subject: RE: [h-cost] upcoming book
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2007 22:38:16 -0400

I'm looking forward to the 1000 color pics. Mine is on order at Amazon. I
would kill to get a GOOD fashion history text for my students. I hate the
one we are using.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:23 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] upcoming book


>
> Title: The Worldwide History of Dress: the Origins of Fashion from
> the Paleolithic to the Present.

Wow!  Nothing like a narrow, specific focus. I look forward to seeing
how they did this in 608 pages.

Margo
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Status: RO

Marie Stewart wrote:

> 
> 
> The armhole is fine, the problem is that I have increased the size of
> my biceps by a full inch, and also increased the size of my forearm by
> about 1/2".   And the dress was cut with skin tight arms, with the
> buttons placed on the outer edge of the opening.

That fabric is delicious!

I had the same problem the one time I made a dress this style, and I 
sucessfully added very narrow gores under the arm where it needed it.


Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Suburban DC costuming day?
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Status: RO

I'm game :) Do you think it would be better to just meet for food or
something costume-neutral, or try and find a museum/exhibit/something
we might all be interested in?

Allison T.

On 6/8/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to

>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2007 23:11:03 -0400
> From: Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee <brennasca@erols.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: DC :-)
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <4668C8C7.8060606@erols.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Mayhap we should.  Who's up for it?
>
> Sharon Henderson wrote:
> > Brenna!!!  {{{glomps}}}
> >
> > Wow, all sorts of folks here I didn't realize were around, but should
> > not be surprised...  :-)
> >
> > My day job is being a business analyst and tech writer for a small
> > military consulting firm in the VA 'burbs; my night job is being a
> > priest in charge of a small congregation in No. VA... the rest of the
> > time I costume and try to sleep.  *g*
> >
> > Maybe we should have a Suburban DC costuming day or something!  :-)
> >
> > Meli ferch Iasper,
> > AKA Sharon Henderson
> >
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Status: RO

As promised here are the pictures of a very happy Sofie, She jumped up and 
down
Notice the big bunch of flowers, nice to have positive feedback from a 
satisfied costumer:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/terrasse.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2007 16:11:46 -0400
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the dress.
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Status: RO

Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>:

> As promised here are the pictures of a very happy Sofie, She jumped up
> and down
> Notice the big bunch of flowers, nice to have positive feedback from a
> satisfied costumer:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/terrasse.htm
>

My, my, my, my, my ....

And isn't that nice young man a handsome fellow!  :-D

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the dress.
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 16:13:02 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks for sharing, Bjarne.

  Glad to see that Dashing Gentleman with Sofie, as well!

You each look fabulous!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Jun 8, 2007, at 4:06 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> As promised here are the pictures of a very happy Sofie, She jumped up=20
> and down
> Notice the big bunch of flowers, nice to have positive feedback from a=20
> satisfied costumer:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/terrasse.htm
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Status: RO



Bjarne: Thank you so much for sharing this stunning ensemble. Now if you
could have all of your customers as pleased and appreciative of all of
your work as Sophie.

Cindy Abel
Omaha NE





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/=20


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Status: RO

This is pretty cool, and while it may be OT, we will all recognize some =
of the paintings!

less than 3 minutes  <about:blank>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DnUDIoN-_Hxs
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Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 16:07:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] asking for suggestions to fix sleeves
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I would suggest inserting a panel of trim or
coordinating fabric up the back of the arm.

Rebecca
--- Marie Stewart <maricelt@gmail.com> wrote:

>> The problem, as you will see in the photo is the
> sleeves. It seems
> that I have taken a) too long to sew this dress
> together and b) that
> my weight training regime really is working. In
> short, my arms are too
> large for the sleeves. I do have a couple of ideas
> of how to fix that,
> but I  thought I would ask here, just in case
> someone else has a
> better idea before I get started.


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sofie in the dress.
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Oh, Bjarne,
=20
How glorious!
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Fri 6/8/2007 4:06 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Sofie in the dress.



As promised here are the pictures of a very happy Sofie, She jumped up =
and
down
Notice the big bunch of flowers, nice to have positive feedback from a
satisfied costumer:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/terrasse.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 16:56:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lynn Roth <lynnroth@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Where would you get hair canvas.  I've never seen it before.  Lynn

Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com> wrote:  I second the hair canvas suggestion. I use it to stiffen all of my bodices
and sleeves (if they need it). It is lightweight, gives a natural-looking
stiffness, and breathes well.

Diana

P.S. I will be carrying it soon if you want to check back on my website in a
few weeks.

--
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Be the change you want to see in the world"
--Ghandi
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of michaela de bruce
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 1:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening

> Is buckram washable? If not, what do you recommend I use to add some
> stiffness to the collar?

Buckram; never get it wet! I just recently managed to reshape my
Stickelchen (headdress like Anne of Cleves wore) after it was deformed
from water from the hoses putting out our housefire. It has still
stretched but most of the shape is fine. But I also have a layer of
felt and silk over mine so fine ripples can't really be noticed.

I would recommend hair canvas. It's possibly called horse hair canvas
in places but it's not relaly horse hair.. at least not only... It's a
mottled grey colour and is reasonably easy to get. It's light weight
and washable. After washing it loses a little stiffness but it sound
slike it will still be quite ideal for a light linen.

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Bjarne,
Bravo
What a beautiful gown and a very lovely and lucky young lady.  You are 
charming in your suit as well.
Paula

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Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 22:32:52 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening Sources
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 6/8/2007 5:57:34 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
lynnroth@sbcglobal.net writes:

Where would you get  hair canvas.  I've never seen it before.  Lynn

Diana Habra  <dch@inreach.com> wrote:  I second the hair canvas suggestion. I 
 use it to stiffen all of my bodices
and sleeves (if they need it). It is  lightweight, gives a natural-looking
stiffness, and breathes  well.



Any place that sells tailoring supplies.  It usually goes by the brand  name 
of "Hymo".  Collar canvas is stiffer and you have to ask specifically  for 
that.  Both contain linen and horse hair.  If you get the cheap  "Hymo" it has 
polyester in it and won't shape well.  Also, stay away from  the fusible stuff 
which is not nearly as good and also contains polyester. 
 
Try Greenburg and Hammer in NYC
 
_www.greenberg-hammer.com_ (http://www.greenberg-hammer.com) 
 
or B. Black and Sons in LA Garment District
 
www.bblackandsons.com
 
 or Levine Brothers in Los Angeles.
 
_Levine Brothers Woolens and Tailor  Supplies_ 
(http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&safe=off&btnG=Search&um=1&q=levine+brothers&near=Los+Angeles
,+CA&fb=1&latlng=34160087,-118371764,10485584516962819214) 
4907 Lankershim Blvd, North Hollywood - 4907 Lankershim 
 
<NOBR>Chery





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Status: RO

either would be okay by me.  We have such a fine set of museums here, it 
would be a shame to miss them.  Anything comung up?

Jerry

A. Thurman wrote:
> I'm game :) Do you think it would be better to just meet for food or
> something costume-neutral, or try and find a museum/exhibit/something
> we might all be interested in?
>
> Allison T.
>
> On 6/8/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> 
> wrote:
>> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2007 23:11:03 -0400
>> From: Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee <brennasca@erols.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: DC :-)
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Message-ID: <4668C8C7.8060606@erols.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>>
>> Mayhap we should.  Who's up for it?
>>
>> Sharon Henderson wrote:
>> > Brenna!!!  {{{glomps}}}
>> >
>> > Wow, all sorts of folks here I didn't realize were around, but should
>> > not be surprised...  :-)
>> >
>> > My day job is being a business analyst and tech writer for a small
>> > military consulting firm in the VA 'burbs; my night job is being a
>> > priest in charge of a small congregation in No. VA... the rest of the
>> > time I costume and try to sleep.  *g*
>> >
>> > Maybe we should have a Suburban DC costuming day or something!  :-)
>> >
>> > Meli ferch Iasper,
>> > AKA Sharon Henderson
>> >
> _______________________________________________
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>
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From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
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Status: RO

At 04:06 PM 6/8/2007, you wrote:
>As promised here are the pictures of a very happy Sofie, She jumped 
>up and down
>Notice the big bunch of flowers, nice to have positive feedback from 
>a satisfied costumer:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/terrasse.htm
>
>Bjarne


Darn it all, Bjarne, the back of that dress is so pretty it makes ME 
want to make one, and I have nowhere to wear such a thing, and no 
time or money for another era! LOL!

It's absolutely gorgeous.

Dianne

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From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks folks for the suggestions.
I'm thinking along the same lines as Dawn, so I think I will try that
first.  I'm glad to hear from some one who has also conquered the same
problem.
Thanks again.
Mari



> >> The problem, as you will see in the photo is the
> > sleeves. It seems that I have taken a) too long to sew this dress
> > together and b) that  my weight training regime really is working. In
> > short, my arms are too large for the sleeves. I do have a couple of ideas
> > of how to fix that, but I  thought I would ask here, just in case
> > someone else has a  better idea before I get started.
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the dress.
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Status: RO

Thankyou soo much to all who replyed with feedback of Sofies dress. I am 
pleased you like her.
I didnt dress her up myself, she was a very shy client, but her mother took 
on her clothes after my instruktions. She could have fitted the bodice a 
little better, but ...........
Thanks a lot.
I  unsubscribe now, i am going to Italy day after tomorrow, early monday 
morning for hollidays.
Please dont talk of anything important while i am away
Thankyou!

Bjarne 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sofie in the dress.
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Have a wonderful, well-deserved holiday!

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 11:53 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the dress.

Thankyou soo much to all who replyed with feedback of Sofies dress. I am

pleased you like her.
I didnt dress her up myself, she was a very shy client, but her mother
took=20
on her clothes after my instruktions. She could have fitted the bodice a

little better, but ...........
Thanks a lot.
I  unsubscribe now, i am going to Italy day after tomorrow, early monday

morning for hollidays.
Please dont talk of anything important while i am away
Thankyou!

Bjarne=20


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Suburban DC costuming day?
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 6/8/2007 10:53:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
brennasca@erols.com writes:

either  would be okay by me.  We have such a fine set of museums here, it  
would be a shame to miss them.  Anything comung  up?


It is hard to meet and get to know a group of strangers at a museum exhibit  
or a restaurant.  
 
However, "And so to bed" is at the DAR right now.  
 
As I said before, I could put together an event at Riversdale.   Perhaps we 
could have a show and tell of some sort, as there is such a wide  variety of 
interests on this list.  We are a house museum and would of  course offer tours 
for anyone who had not been there.  Alas, we have no  costume collection!
 
If someone on the list wants to organize something, though, by all means,  
do.  I couldn't do anything at Riversdale before late fall or winter.
 
Ann Wass



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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] viking apron dress
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Status: RO

Hi,

a friend of mine has asked me to sew a viking apron dress for her.  But the thing that makes me wonder is that she wants it to be fitted, which would most certainly mean a fastening. Now that's the trouble: I've never heard of any viking fastening but of a brooch or something. Do you know something about that? Were all viking dresses so loose that they didn't need any fastening? If not, what would the fastening be?

Many thanks,

Zuzana

 
---------------------------------
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Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2007 16:17:58 -0400
From: Judy Mitchell <judymitch@theoldforest.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] viking apron dress
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Status: RO

Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> a friend of mine has asked me to sew a viking apron dress for her.  But the thing that makes me wonder is that she wants it to be fitted, which would most certainly mean a fastening. Now that's the trouble: I've never heard of any viking fastening but of a brooch or something. Do you know something about that? Were all viking dresses so loose that they didn't need any fastening? If not, what would the fastening be?

Hi,

	The underdress/smock and the dress are basically 2-4 gored dresses, 
that pull over your head. While they can be somewhat tight, they still 
have to go over the bust and not rip when you bend or move your arms. 
Some men's styles of sleevs were tight enough that it was a woman's job 
to sew the sleeves ends closed once the men were dressed, not sure if 
the women's were ever that tight. If you made a keyole neckline, there 
was usually a small brooch to hold it closed, although scoop necks were 
also known.

	The apron-dress is a layer on top of the dress. Yes, it does involve 2 
brooches that attach spaghetti-strap loops from the back to tiny loops 
on the front. The apron dress again goes over the head, but the top 
edges is about armpit level. Does it have to be a shapeless bag? nope.

	There are many styles of apron-dresses, but if you make it out of 
rectangular panels with gores inserted in between 
<http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/image/apdress.jpg>  you can do a bit 
of tailoring to still make it fit tightly at the upper body and flow 
nicley over the hips. Also, there is some evidence that Inga Hagg 
mentions in her Hedeby book, about long darts at the side, which would 
have run from the top edge to about the waste, and they would create 
more tailoring.

	I usually made my apron-dresses by measuring from bust point to bust 
point and making that my panel width. Figuring than how many panels it 
would take to go around me, and adding in gores in between. There was 
usually some bagginess at the top, but those side darts could take a lot 
of that out. As long as you can still get out of it! Others prefer make 
their panel width more dependant on fabric width and figure how many of 
those it would take to wrap around. I figure they were working on a 
warp-weighted loom and would weave whatever width they darn well wanted.

	Because of my particular shape, I prefered the additional in gores. 
Many people who are thinner prefer the gores calculated into the panels 
creating fewer seams (I can't get that out of my fabric).

	Hope this helps,
	-Judy Mitchell
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] viking apron dress
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2007 18:21:16 -0500
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Status: RO

It would be snug in the chest area. I have an apron dress that is snug in
the bust for a wee bit o' support. The weave of the fabric allows some give
so that you can pull it over the head.
This is similar to the pattern I made.
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/mjc/sca/aprond.html

extra info
http://www.silverdor.org/viking/vikingad.html

http://www.tjurslakter.nl/viking%20apron-dress.pdf

http://www.earlyperiod.com/articles/viking-apron.php

http://www.vikingagevessels.org/documents/C_%20Viking%20Womens%20Costume.pdf

http://members.aol.com/MtFreehold/Viking_handout_women.pdf

I had another site earmarked but can seem to find it.

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi,

a friend of mine has asked me to sew a viking apron dress for her.  But the
thing that makes me wonder is that she wants it to be fitted, which would
most certainly mean a fastening. Now that's the trouble: I've never heard of
any viking fastening but of a brooch or something. Do you know something
about that? Were all viking dresses so loose that they didn't need any
fastening? If not, what would the fastening be?

Many thanks,

Zuzana


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From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Suburban DC costuming day?
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Status: RO

In DC there are 3 things I'm currently aware of:

Red at the Textile Museum: http://www.textilemuseum.org/exhibitions/current.htm

Italian Renaissance and Baroque Women Painters at the National Museum
of Women in the arts (not costume focused, but lots of portraits with
costume detail):
http://www.nmwa.org/exhibition/detail.asp?exhibitid=151

Native American women's dresses at the new(ish) National Museum of the
American Indian:
http://www.nmai.si.edu/subpage.cfm?subpage=exhibitions&second=dc

If anyone is 1) interested in a hike to Baltimore and/or 2) also
interested in modern textile art, there's an exhibit of Japanese
textiles at the Baltimore Museum of Art (scroll down):
http://www.artbma.org/exhibitions/index.html

Allison T.

On 6/9/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
-
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2007 22:53:05 -0400
> From: Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee <brennasca@erols.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Suburban DC costuming day?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <466A1611.7070406@erols.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> either would be okay by me.  We have such a fine set of museums here, it
> would be a shame to miss them.  Anything comung up?
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Status: RO

I saw an advertisement on a bus for the American Indian exhibit.  And 
the Italian renaissance sound good too.

Jerry

A. Thurman wrote:
> In DC there are 3 things I'm currently aware of:
>
> Red at the Textile Museum: 
> http://www.textilemuseum.org/exhibitions/current.htm
>
> Italian Renaissance and Baroque Women Painters at the National Museum
> of Women in the arts (not costume focused, but lots of portraits with
> costume detail):
> http://www.nmwa.org/exhibition/detail.asp?exhibitid=151
>
> Native American women's dresses at the new(ish) National Museum of the
> American Indian:
> http://www.nmai.si.edu/subpage.cfm?subpage=exhibitions&second=dc
>
> If anyone is 1) interested in a hike to Baltimore and/or 2) also
> interested in modern textile art, there's an exhibit of Japanese
> textiles at the Baltimore Museum of Art (scroll down):
> http://www.artbma.org/exhibitions/index.html
>
> Allison T.
>
> On 6/9/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> 
> wrote:
> -
>>
>> Message: 11
>> Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2007 22:53:05 -0400
>> From: Jeraldine Rorstrom-Lee <brennasca@erols.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Suburban DC costuming day?
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Message-ID: <466A1611.7070406@erols.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>>
>> either would be okay by me.  We have such a fine set of museums here, it
>> would be a shame to miss them.  Anything comung up?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2007 00:47:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] viking apron dress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Wow, thanks for all the webpages!! And thanks for the info, too! I think I'll try to shape it a little but have loose enough to pull over the head:-)) 

Zuzana

       
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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] viking apron dress
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2007 09:11:22 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Just a heads up. If you follow the first "extra info" link to http:// 
www.vikinganswerlady.org/, you will get a rather nasty site that  
tries to put malware on your computer.  I'm on Mac, so it didn't  
manage to do bad things, but I had to hard close my browser to leave  
the site. If you know who links to that site, you might want them to  
update their links.
Althea

On Jun 9, 2007, at 4:21 PM, otsisto wrote:

> It would be snug in the chest area. I have an apron dress that is  
> snug in
> the bust for a wee bit o' support. The weave of the fabric allows  
> some give
> so that you can pull it over the head.
> This is similar to the pattern I made.
> http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/mjc/sca/aprond.html
>
> extra info
> http://www.silverdor.org/viking/vikingad.html
>
> http://www.tjurslakter.nl/viking%20apron-dress.pdf
>
> http://www.earlyperiod.com/articles/viking-apron.php
>
> http://www.vikingagevessels.org/documents/C_%20Viking%20Womens% 
> 20Costume.pdf
>
> http://members.aol.com/MtFreehold/Viking_handout_women.pdf
>
> I had another site earmarked but can seem to find it.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Hi,
>
> a friend of mine has asked me to sew a viking apron dress for her.   
> But the
> thing that makes me wonder is that she wants it to be fitted, which  
> would
> most certainly mean a fastening. Now that's the trouble: I've never  
> heard of
> any viking fastening but of a brooch or something. Do you know  
> something
> about that? Were all viking dresses so loose that they didn't need any
> fastening? If not, what would the fastening be?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Zuzana
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] viking apron dress
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Status: RO

Thank you. I have TVAL site earmarked so I never used it on Vigdis' site. I
have notified the web"minister" of the site of the problem.
Here is my earmark for TVAL
http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/index.shtml

De

-----Original Message-----
Just a heads up. If you follow the first "extra info" link to http://
www.vikinganswerlady.org/, you will get a rather nasty site that
tries to put malware on your computer.  I'm on Mac, so it didn't
manage to do bad things, but I had to hard close my browser to leave
the site. If you know who links to that site, you might want them to
update their links.
Althea


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Subject: [h-cost] re: current DC exhibits
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Status: RO

There's actually one more - the "Treasures of American History" exhibit 
at the Air and Space Museum has Jackie Kennedy's inaugural gown, Sandra 
Day O'Connor's judicial robes, a dress of Mary Todd Lincoln's (I can't 
remember off the top of my head if that was an inaugural gown, or 
another), a dress  belonging to Margaret Mead (specially made to 
accomodate her changing dress size every time that she went out on her 
expeditions), a pair of Marilyn Monroe's gloves (and a pair of Mohammad 
Ali's boxing gloves), Andrew Jackson's uniform, an outfit of Ray 
Charles' (gold sequins on black - I suspect they figured the brighter 
jackets that were on display a year or two ago wouldn't look right in 
with the other items on display in that area), George Washington's 
uniform (dress uniform, dating from *after* the American Revolution), a 
(buffalo?) skin coat belonging to Gen. Custer, a *bunch* of hats dating 
from the mid 1800s to present-day... a poofy shirt from "Seinfeld", Mr. 
Roger's sweater (one of... reminds me I need to drop the curator a note 
about that...)..

and currently a wedding kimono that belonged to a Japanese immigrant to 
Hawaii.

Hmm... oh, I forgot, the scarecrow costume from the "Wizard of Oz", 
Dorothy's red shoes, a *gorgeous* Oscar de la Renta (sp?) gown (can't 
imagine painting and attaching all those gold covered feathers!)...

I think that's it - -   I've got *most* of the collection memorized at 
this point, but I do tend to forget parts.  (*g* forgot one of the guns 
when I listed them to a visitor this morning - had to find him again to 
tell him it was *four* rather than three... and that pike and sword to 
round off the weapons on display).  I volunteer as a docent with the 
Museum of American History - currently only working in that exhibit once 
a month, while the museum's closed for renovation.

Yup - I'm in the DC area - ish - also, but closer to Baltimore.  I'd 
love to get together with folks if there's a get-together, but with two 
kids and other stuff going on, spare time that "works" with others is 
rare.  One reason I'm always happy to see those who stop by at MDRF when 
they do :-)


-Liz / Elisabeth

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Status: RO

If anyone is interested in buying a newly constructed luxury home near 
Auburn, CA, my husband's family's business is liquidating their real 
estate and that is one of the properties. Details available privately.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: jmdpease@att.net (Jane Pease)
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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2007 13:14:51 +0000
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Status: RO

In addition to the other exhibitions mentioned for a possible DC meet-up, the National Portrait Gallery has "Great Britons, " portraits from the last 500 years, including the Ditchley portrait of Elizabeth.  Since it was mounted a an adjunct to the Queen's recent visit, it may have some very interesting portraits to see.

Jane Pease
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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Things to do in DC
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2007 11:04:41 -0400
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Status: RO

I was in D.C. this weekend for a professional meeting and didn't get  
out of the hotel (frustrating!), but I did have a drink with a friend  
(and former dean) who is a docent at the National Portrait Gallery.  
He's very enthusiastic about the Great Britons collection, which he  
says both very interesting and high-quality. He particularly  
mentioned the Elizabeth and a Shakespeare.
If you visit the exhibit and your docent is Al Schmidt, tell him I  
said hi.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Jun 11, 2007, at 9:14 AM, Jane Pease wrote:

> In addition to the other exhibitions mentioned for a possible DC  
> meet-up, the National Portrait Gallery has "Great Britons, "  
> portraits from the last 500 years, including the Ditchley portrait  
> of Elizabeth.  Since it was mounted a an adjunct to the Queen's  
> recent visit, it may have some very interesting portraits to see.
>
> Jane Pease
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2007 17:50:07 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Town Crier
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Status: RO

At 17:28 11/06/2007, you wrote:
>I have a friend who wants me to make him a costume for an  American colonial
>Town Crier. He says he's seen an illustration with the  Crier in, 
>judging from
>what he describes, as an English Smock. Would this  be so? Of course I want
>him in a coat and waistcoat [even if the smock is  correct, I still 
>have to do
>breeches and a shirt]. He may just not want to fool  with a coat ["It's
>hot."]. I wondered if the Crier was some kind of city  official...like with a
>uniform or something to indicate his office. I suppose  that might 
>depend on the
>town.
>
>Any thoughts and/or directions on research would be greatly  appreciated.

If you Google Town Crier, (Images) you will find a number if pictures 
of Town Criers, all in pseudo 18th century gear. This is what I 
remember from my childhood in Stratford on Avon. See also "Beadle", 
who was a similar status official.

Suzi 

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Status: RO

I have a friend who wants me to make him a costume for an  American colonial 
Town Crier. He says he's seen an illustration with the  Crier in, judging from 
what he describes, as an English Smock. Would this  be so? Of course I want 
him in a coat and waistcoat [even if the smock is  correct, I still have to do 
breeches and a shirt]. He may just not want to fool  with a coat ["It's 
hot."]. I wondered if the Crier was some kind of city  official...like with a 
uniform or something to indicate his office. I suppose  that might depend on the 
town.
 
Any thoughts and/or directions on research would be greatly  appreciated.



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sofie in the dress.
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2007 13:42:44 -0700
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Status: RO

Beautiful!!!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 1:06 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Sofie in the dress.


As promised here are the pictures of a very happy Sofie, She jumped up and 
down
Notice the big bunch of flowers, nice to have positive feedback from a 
satisfied costumer:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/terrasse.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Status: RO

I will be in Washington DC with my husband for two and a half days in
late July.
The exhibitions so far described sound interesting, especially the=20
one on Red at the Textile Museum and the Italian Renaissance and Baroque
Women Painters

I hope they will still be on, and I would also be grateful for advice on
any really good fabric shops there,
though if I remember right this was discussed not long ago and there
wasn't much.

Can any one also recommend (off-list since it isn't topical) a good,
reasonably priced hotel which is fairly central to the Smithsonian
musuems=3F

I'm really looking forward to this - it will be the first time we have
been to Washington except for a stopover at the airport (which doesn't
count :-)

Annette Wilson
in wintery Canberra, Australia

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Status: RO

I have stayed at the Harrington. Not elegant, but clean and reasonable, in a
great location.

Kim

http://www.hotel-harrington.com/ 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wilson, Annette
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 7:39 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Things to do in DC [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]

I will be in Washington DC with my husband for two and a half days in late
July.
The exhibitions so far described sound interesting, especially the one on
Red at the Textile Museum and the Italian Renaissance and Baroque Women
Painters

I hope they will still be on, and I would also be grateful for advice on any
really good fabric shops there, though if I remember right this was
discussed not long ago and there wasn't much.

Can any one also recommend (off-list since it isn't topical) a good,
reasonably priced hotel which is fairly central to the Smithsonian musuems?

I'm really looking forward to this - it will be the first time we have been
to Washington except for a stopover at the airport (which doesn't count :-)

Annette Wilson
in wintery Canberra, Australia

------If you have received this transmission in error please notify us
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 6/11/2007 11:30:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
kbaird@cableone.net writes:

on  any
really good fabric shops there, 


In addition to G Street Fabrics (you can get to the Rockville store via  
Metro), this store is downtown.  I was wondering if it was still there, but  the 
website looks up to date:
 
Exquisite Fabrics  _http://www.exqfabrics.com/_ (http://www.exqfabrics.com/) 
 
Ann Wass



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BAY133-DAV17EA8670D4DDDCCF3716AED2250@phx.gbl>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Women in Art.  OT- a little
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2007 07:51:29 -0400
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Status: RO

How charming!  Thanks for pointing it out.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 4:57 PM
To: h-costume; GermanRenCostume; TheRenaissanceTailor; thefrazzledfrau
Subject: [h-cost] Women in Art. OT- a little

This is pretty cool, and while it may be OT, we will all recognize some of
the paintings!

less than 3 minutes  <about:blank>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUDIoN-_Hxs
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Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2007 07:15:45 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Things to do in DC 
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Status: RO

At 04:28 12/06/2007, you wrote:
>I have stayed at the Harrington. Not elegant, but clean and reasonable, in a
>great location.
>
>Kim
>
>http://www.hotel-harrington.com/

I second the Harrington. We stayed there last year on recommendation 
from this list, and it is within walking distance of everywhere we 
wanted to go on a short trip.

Suzi

>I will be in Washington DC with my husband for two and a half days in late
>July.
>The exhibitions so far described sound interesting, especially the one on
>Red at the Textile Museum and the Italian Renaissance and Baroque Women
>Painters
>
>I hope they will still be on, and I would also be grateful for advice on any
>really good fabric shops there, though if I remember right this was
>discussed not long ago and there wasn't much.
>
>Can any one also recommend (off-list since it isn't topical) a good,
>reasonably priced hotel which is fairly central to the Smithsonian musuems?
>
>I'm really looking forward to this - it will be the first time we have been
>to Washington except for a stopover at the airport (which doesn't count :-)
>
>Annette Wilson
>in wintery Canberra, Australia

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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Town Crier
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Status: RO

There is also a town crier competition, in Benicia, California, I
believe. You may want to google that competition to see what has been
in the contest previously.
LynnD

On 6/11/07, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
> At 17:28 11/06/2007, you wrote:
> >I have a friend who wants me to make him a costume for an  American colonial
> >Town Crier. He says he's seen an illustration with the  Crier in,
> >judging from
> >what he describes, as an English Smock. Would this  be so? Of course I want
> >him in a coat and waistcoat [even if the smock is  correct, I still
> >have to do
> >breeches and a shirt]. He may just not want to fool  with a coat ["It's
> >hot."]. I wondered if the Crier was some kind of city  official...like with a
> >uniform or something to indicate his office. I suppose  that might
> >depend on the
> >town.
> >
> >Any thoughts and/or directions on research would be greatly  appreciated.
>
> If you Google Town Crier, (Images) you will find a number if pictures
> of Town Criers, all in pseudo 18th century gear. This is what I
> remember from my childhood in Stratford on Avon. See also "Beadle",
> who was a similar status official.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

In deed, it is and is open Mon through Sat.

Brenna

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
>  
> In a message dated 6/11/2007 11:30:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
> kbaird@cableone.net writes:
>
> on  any
> really good fabric shops there, 
>
>
> In addition to G Street Fabrics (you can get to the Rockville store via  
> Metro), this store is downtown.  I was wondering if it was still there, but  the 
> website looks up to date:
>  
> Exquisite Fabrics  _http://www.exqfabrics.com/_ (http://www.exqfabrics.com/) 
>  
> Ann Wass
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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>
>   
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Subject: [h-cost] Edwardian Straight Front Theory
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Hi, first time poster. Firstly thank you for having a place where there is alot of knowledge and willingness to help.
   
  I recently started corsetry around three months ago. I'm a very technically minded person so have spent most of the time working out patterns for under and overbusts with great success...I can say I understand the shapes.
   
  But having recently bought the past patterns edwardian straight front corset I am completely dumbfounded as to what these lines are doing to creat this dramatic curve.
  I have drafted atleast 6 of my own patterns and sewn 3 mockups but I seem to be going further from the solution, I've had a look at the patterns here aswell.
   
  My question is this, I'm not asking for trade secrets but can someone tell me how each line of a straight front pattern affects the end result shape? I've noticed there are incredibly large gaps between pieces in the waist and bust sometimes adding upto 6-8 inches reduction.
  Also the s-curve line...should it be located dead on the side line? Straight or at an angle? Should the waistline be angled upwards towards the back? Should the top and bottom follow suit or stay straight?
   
  I mean I basically understand the principle of it, basically it's just like a normal corset with the waist reduced as normal. Then from the side you pull back the top and bottom lines until the front is straight and the back gets curved but looking at the patterns there must be more to it.
   
  If anyone who drafts there own patterns could give me some technical insight it would be much appreciated. You see I don't want to just copy patterns, I want to understand how there made giving me a greater insight into making my own.
  I have looked at every resource there is on the net and I can't find anything technical to help me and I'm sick of not understanding what I'm doing when drafting.

       
---------------------------------
 Yahoo! Answers - Get better answers from someone who knows. Tryit now.
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<snip>
>    
>   But having recently bought the past patterns edwardian straight front corset

I am completely dumbfounded as to what these lines are doing to creat 
this dramatic curve.
>   


I haven't made this pattern, though I have made Victorian corsets.

One thing to remember about the fashionable Edwardian S-curve silhouette 
is that it involves more than the corset.  First, fashionable women wore 
hip pads.

Second, the S-shape was enhanced considerably by a fashionable posture: 
  Lean forward from the waist and stick out your behind, BUT, also 
thrust your bosom out (also padded if necessary, or enhanced with a 
ruffled corset cover; the effect should be as if your bosom was placed 
rather low), AND, throw your head backward.

When feasible: Also, put one hand behind your back at waist level, with 
your elbow bent and the back of your hand pressing against the small of 
your back.  Use your other hand to hold a parasol, or to lean on the 
back of a chair or something.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Historic Costume Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Edwardian Straight Front Theory
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In a message dated 6/12/2007 11:39:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

But  having recently bought the past patterns edwardian straight front  corset



******************
 
 
I HATE that pattern! It has little to do with the envelope illustration.  
Find another pattern!



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Edwardian Straight Front Theory
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Status: RO

I just taught this lesson a week and a half ago, so it is fresh in my mine. 
I have done research as to what makes the S-shape silhouette.  I also teach 
this in my class and dress out forms to show the students how this look was 
created.  My grades or in (YIPPEE) so I have time to read the list again!

The S-shape gives an illusion of a very small waist.  It is an illusion! 
The silhouette is called pigeon-breast, but was first called the Marie 
Antoinette Dip or Parisian Dip.  The bodice and skirt waistline are worn 
lower in the front and higher in the back.  This difference from previous 
silhouettes is  that the back can be from 1-2" higher than a normal 
waistline.  .  I have online an article from Delineator magazine, Sept. 
1900,  titled "The Dressmaker: The Maier Antoinette Dip" by A.L. Gorman.   I 
also provide online some examples of fashion plates and some of Butterick's 
patterns for the dipped shirt.  The rear pad is not as large as the previous 
decade.  The bust can be made larger with bust improvers.  Alden O'Brien at 
DAR in Washington DC has a wonderful wire mesh bust improver. The bodice of 
the Parisian Dip creates a mono-bosom. The bodices for these dresses have an 
inner bodice that are usually boned similar to a corset.  If a woman is not 
well endowed, this look needs an improver or stuffing in-between the two 
bodices.  The outer bodice generally has a generous amount of fabric 
compared to the inner bodice.  Most of the bodices that I have worked with 
have a petersham band to hold the bodice in place.  From the photos I have 
observed, large women look really nice in this silhouette.  Small chested 
women do not create the silhouette well without enhancers.  The skirts from 
1899-the Edwardian period have really unique designs.  I admire the 
detailing and overlaid panels/yokes made onto/into them.  The skirts in 
period magazines are described by how many gores are in the skirt.  The 
skirt gores are generally in odd number, 3, 5, 7, etc.

The petticoats of this time followed the same waistline placement as the 
skirt.  I have several petticoats with the flat center front and layers of 
ruffles in the back.  One that comes to mind has five rows of ruffles on the 
train or sweep.  The top row (first) is the widest and starts near the 
placement of our present day side seams.  Each ruffle is about 1.5 " deep. 
I have all of this measured and in my notes for the petticoat's photograph 
on my computer.  The second row of ruffles  is shorter in length but the 
depth is the same for all ruffles.  Each row to #5 is shorter in length than 
the previous.  Row 5 is not very long.  The rows of ruffles are set upon the 
petticoat.   The center back seam for this petticoat has mirroring wedge 
shaped gores from about the knee down.  The skirt's sweep of the Parisian 
Dip skirt is very important to the silhouette.  Last semester I found 
another Delineator article  about the different types of sweeps/trains and 
their names for this time period.  I plan to get this article and one more 
on this subject online this summer.

The beginning of the Parisian Dip is smaller and more of a funnel shape, 
almost V-shaped at the centerfront waistline.  It almost comes in a point 
just below the normal waistline.  I have a lot of these bodices and no belt 
is worn exteriorly.  Most have a built in girdle at the bottom.  The midriff 
area in the lower front generally has several bones.  Some of the girdles 
have separate bones from the inner bodice.  As the decade progresses the 
lower front bodice becomes more rounded or bloused looking more like the 
pigeon's breast (the real bird.)  I need to look at my fashion magazines 
this summer and try to pin-point around when in 1899 the Parisian Dip makes 
its debut.

This style is also fashionable today for evening wear.  Look at Jessica 
Biel's Oscar dress, 
http://www.oscar.com/oscarnight/redcarpet/?pn=gallery&g=0&i=4  This 
silhouette has been all over the fashion mags since the Oscars.  The dip is 
becoming more pronounced every month generally with a dark colored belt.  I 
guess with Jennifer Lopez making having a booty fashionable, this silhouette 
returning to fashion's limelight makes sense.  It seems I recall my students 
from the spring semester pointed out three actresses wearing Parisian Dip 
dresses at the Oscars.  I showed an Oscar Red Carpet video to my students 
and they had to pin-point fashions inspired from previous decades.   Most of 
the students got the time frames incorrect on the Oscar project. But this 
was near the beginning of the semester. The last week of class each student 
is required to give me a current fashion magazine. Then as part of my final 
exam, I hand the magazine back to them.  I gave them 30 minutes to find 5 
fashions that are inspired from the time periods they have studied.  They 
had to write an argument about why they thought each fashion was inspired 
from a previous decade.  Last Friday's final exam, only two students got one 
time frame wrong.  All the other student got their answers correct.  This is 
a good way to show the students how much they have learned.  Try this with a 
fashion magazine!  It is fun!  It is a game with me to try to find something 
that has NOT been inspired from a previous time period.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: Anne <adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
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Status: RO

Here is a neat computer morphing film based on many portraits that 
H-Costumers will be familiar with. Pretty cool what you can do with a 
computer and 500 years worth of beautiful art!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUDIoN-_Hxs

or

http://tinyurl.com/23mle4

Enjoy!

Anne

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From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
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Thank you Anne.

>
> http://tinyurl.com/23mle4
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Anne
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At 18:00 13/06/2007, you wrote:
>Thank you Anne.
>
>>
>>http://tinyurl.com/23mle4
>>
>>Enjoy!
>>
>>Anne



Am I the only one that thinks this is quite horrible?

Suzi 

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Status: RO

Yes! I saw that a couple of days ago. Beautiful! And I love to hear the  Bach 
solo cello too!



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
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In a message dated 6/13/2007 1:05:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Am I the  only one that thinks this is quite horrible?



***************
 
Hahahaha! Yes! Why?



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Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2007 18:49:22 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
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Status: RO

At 18:40 13/06/2007, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 6/13/2007 1:05:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
>Am I the  only one that thinks this is quite horrible?
>
>
>
>***************
>
>Hahahaha! Yes! Why?

The metamorphosis between "faces" reminds me of nothing less than the 
"transformations" in werewolf movies. "An American Werewolf in 
London" in particular has the whole face stretching and morphing. 
Ugh! I accept that it is very clever, but goodness it gives me the 
creeps. Too many horror movies in my youth no doubt!

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Edwardian Straight Front Theory 
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Status: RO

I needed to make a straight-front corset to go with Janet Arnold's 1901
Ribbon Dress for my sister's wedding.  I did it minus patters and =
mocking up
on check fabric (to keep the grain though out).  Basically I worked from =
the
much earlier laughing moon pattern sheet (didn't have the pattern w/ me) =
and
"Corsets and Crinolines".  If you look at the partner pieces and =
drawing...
the first thing you really notices is that the straight front corsets =
have
real HIPS!  The hip area is not just an extension of smoothing the =
waist,
it's flaring out to embrace a "newly discovered" sexy part of the woman.
<G>

My pieces ended up staying fairly similar on top except for sucking in =
the
bust lines a bit in front, and releasing out the back. =20

In the bottom... that's where the magic happens.  I took in as much as I
could at the waist area and release in the hip area... release to the =
sides
and back in a fairly even manner.  It worked.  That part of the body is
fleshy and you can move it around w/ just a little containment and not
tight-lacing.

In my final... the waist area were really thin strips, the hip pieces =
are
giant.  By the time the pattern was done, I could see why some of the
commercial manufactures went to separate hip pieces, but I had enough
interlining I felt safe. If I remember correctly, the biggest back hip
pieces had a 1:4 ration.

Oh, while making it... I did a bit of temp boning and front and back to =
keep
those lines cleaner while testing the last couple of mock ups.

I topped this off with a ruffled corset cover to help fill out the top =
of
the "S".  My sister's hips didn't need the pad. (And to help keep the =
hip
line clean, I used waist bands about 2"- 4".  The underskirt was a =
typical
gathered layered skirt with a rope kick panel at the bottom and the =
outer
layer was exactly from Hunissette's circular ruff petticoat=20

These layers all add together to give that shape illusion... and w/o =
needing
to tight lace the corset.

-Cat-

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Edwardian Straight Front Theory
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Status: RO



-----Original Message-----
>From: Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@alleycatscratch.com>
>Sent: Jun 13, 2007 4:36 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: Edwardian Straight Front Theory 
>
>I needed to make a straight-front corset to go with Janet Arnold's 1901
>Ribbon Dress for my sister's wedding.  I did it minus patters and mocking up
>on check fabric (to keep the grain though out).  Basically I worked from the
>much earlier laughing moon pattern sheet (didn't have the pattern w/ me) and
>"Corsets and Crinolines".  If you look at the partner pieces and drawing...
>the first thing you really notices is that the straight front corsets have
>real HIPS!  The hip area is not just an extension of smoothing the waist,
>it's flaring out to embrace a "newly discovered" sexy part of the woman.
><G>
>
>My pieces ended up staying fairly similar on top except for sucking in the
>bust lines a bit in front, and releasing out the back.  
>
>In the bottom... that's where the magic happens.  I took in as much as I
>could at the waist area and release in the hip area... release to the sides
>and back in a fairly even manner.  It worked.  That part of the body is
>fleshy and you can move it around w/ just a little containment and not
>tight-lacing.
>
>In my final... the waist area were really thin strips, the hip pieces are
>giant.  By the time the pattern was done, I could see why some of the
>commercial manufactures went to separate hip pieces, but I had enough
>interlining I felt safe. If I remember correctly, the biggest back hip
>pieces had a 1:4 ration.
>
>Oh, while making it... I did a bit of temp boning and front and back to keep
>those lines cleaner while testing the last couple of mock ups.
>
>I topped this off with a ruffled corset cover to help fill out the top of
>the "S".  My sister's hips didn't need the pad. (And to help keep the hip
>line clean, I used waist bands about 2"- 4".  The underskirt was a typical
>gathered layered skirt with a rope kick panel at the bottom and the outer
>layer was exactly from Hunissette's circular ruff petticoat 
>
>These layers all add together to give that shape illusion... and w/o needing
>to tight lace the corset.
>
>-Cat-
>
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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
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Status: RO



>The metamorphosis between "faces" reminds me of nothing less than the 
>"transformations" in werewolf movies. "An American Werewolf in 
>London" in particular has the whole face stretching and morphing. 
>Ugh! I accept that it is very clever, but goodness it gives me the 
>creeps. Too many horror movies in my youth no doubt!

>Suzi

Ah, yes.  A truly misspent youth :)  

It was pretty strange but cleverly done.  The part that worried me was how
many faces I recognized !!

Anne

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From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
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No, I reacted the same way -- had to quit half-way through.  I found it very disturbing.
   
  KP
  

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
  
In a message dated 6/13/2007 1:05:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Am I the only one that thinks this is quite horrible?



***************

Hahahaha! Yes! Why?



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>Am I the only one that thinks this is quite horrible?
>
>Suzi
>
No, I couldn't watch it - it was too disturbing.

Janet


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I am looking for evidence of clothing made of silk in 9th-11th C Viking society. Any ideas where I should look?

Jodi

       
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From: "E House" <swissgirl@swissinfo.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>,
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References: <20070613015732.21083.qmail@web26611.mail.ukl.yahoo.com><466F66B7.80705@lavoltapress.com>
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Status: RO

The cut of the corset itself is really very impressive from an engineering 
standpoint.  I taught myself how to create patterns for them by looking at 
the originals, and _had_ to figure out the purpose of each piece and 
feature.

First, the difference in stance and silhouette is not just an artifact of 
the way the women held themselves--though that certainly has something to do 
with it.  Rather, it is engineered right into the corset itself.  Picture 
this: stand up, and ignoring your hips and bust, stick your navel as far 
forward as you can.  This causes several things to happen to the rest of 
your body: your back waist curve is emphasized as much as possible, the 
bottom of your ribcage goes up and forward, your shoulders automatically go 
back, and your hips angle a bit as though you were bending forward slightly. 
This is the origin of the straight-front pose, and this is exactly what the 
corset is engineered to create... by the simple expedient of forcing your 
navel into the leading position.

Now picture a cross-section of your waist.  Mentally divide it into a front 
quarter, a back quarter, a left side quarter, and a right side quarter. 
Whereas the earlier Victorian corsets compressed the waist almost all the 
way around, the straight-front corset is designed so that almost all of the 
waist compression happens in those two side quarters.  This creates an 
optical illusion; viewed from the front, the waist seems extremely small, 
because there's a much more noticeable corve inwards on the sides. And even 
though the waist is thicker when viewed from the side than it would be in a 
Victorian corset, the exaggerated  back curve fools the eye into seeing a 
smaller waist.

The cut of the corset is what causes all this to happen. Whereas a Victorian 
corset has basically vertical panels, the Edwardian is designed more like 
this:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/corsfronta.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/corsbacka.gif
with an upside-down triangle wrapping across the front with the top two 
points meeting and overlapping in the back, and a right-side-up triangle 
across the back with the bottom two points wrapping around to meet at the 
front. You can follow the path of the pressure and compression brought to 
bear by the back lacing by following the diagonal line formed where the two 
triangular sections meet.  Pressure above the waist at the back helps force 
the navel and lower ribcage forward ; along the sides, the pressure 
compresses the waist; at the front, it keeps the lower abdomen from 
billowing out. The rest of the corset exists to anchor this vital 
pressure/compression line.

Let's take these very typical mid-decade corsets as an example:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/cb1905.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/CBalaS2.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/Royal_Worchester_corsets.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/CBalaS1.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/ebay03373.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/ebay06440.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/CorsetPix.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/Thomsons_deep_hip.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/ad115.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/ebay01433.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/rwbt01.jpg
The "triangle effect" along with the diagonal pressure line it creates from 
top back to bottom front is immediately visible, and is echoed in the 
diagonal pattern pieces that follow this line.  The number of these pieces 
varies, and on some examples they're completely missing, but a seam is still 
visible along this line.  It is this diagonal seam that provides enough 
strength to handle the pressure being brought to bear; the more seams you 
see there, the more compression the corset is able to provide.

The rest of the corset is cut to accomodate that imoprtant diagonal line. 
Triangular gores, apart from being downright necessary once you have that 
diagonal line to maintain, allow the hip area to flare from the waist 
dramatically yet curvaceously.  The shape of the triangular gores at the 
bust need be tweaked only slightly to create any of several bust shapes.  In 
the earliest versions, additional bust gores were added to allow for a 
lifted and separated bust; in middle and later versions, these extra gores 
made room for larger busts on dowager (stout older lady) corsets.  However, 
throughout most of the period, the gores were actually used to remove 
support from the bust rather than add to it--after all, a low bust was The 
Look.  While earlier examples showed it was clearly possible to cut the bust 
of the corset for support, the most typical Edwardian corsets merely flared 
out a bit to provide space into which the bust could sag down.

Though the cut did much to create the overall effect of the corset, certain 
other elements existed to enforce it.  The boning, far from following the 
lines of the seams, was almost always vertical, for two main reasons: first, 
vertical placement keeps the bones from twisting as they follow the corset's 
curves, and second, vertical boning causes pressure to be distributed 
horizontally.  Wherever that all-important diagonal pressure line crosses 
vertical boning, the two pressure zones combine, to increase the area that 
the diagonal pressure line can affect.  In other words, instead of a line of 
pressure the width of a single seam, you now have a line of pressure several 
inches wide.  (Away from that diagonal pressure line, the boning mostly just 
exists to keep the garment smooth.)  Along the same lines as the horizontal 
pressure distribution of the boning, internal waist bands were also added to 
many corsets.  Stretching from the upper back waist to the lower abdomen, 
they were still rather diagonal, but much closer to the horizontal; they 
were along the same general line as the waist band of the garments actually 
being worn with the straight-front corset.

Whereas the earlier exaggerations in form created by the corset style were 
mostly exaggerated in illustration only:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/rwbt01.jpg corsetmakers soon learned how 
much could be done with this diagonal pressure line, and the later 
exaggerations were exaggerations in the actual corseted form:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/8994df8c.jpg .  When this exaggeration 
reached its peak near the end of the decade, the return to straighter lines 
was founded on the straighter lines of the corset itself: the corsets were 
once again cut on the old vertical-panel principle.
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/corset1111.jpg
Though diagonal lines still made a part of the pattern, they were no longer 
used to create a diagonal pressure line.

You may notice that I've gone this far without really discussing the actual 
straight-front part itself much.  This is because--though a vital part of 
the corset--it's actually a very SMALL part of the corset. Take a look at 
this ad:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/CBalaS3.jpg and you'll see, 
semi-intentionally illustrated, the portion of the front of the corset that 
is actually straight.  That narrow triangle with its top point between the 
bust, and the base over the abdomen, split in to by the busk?  (Looks like 
and occasionally actually is a flattened spoon busk, as a matter of fact.) 
Spread the base an inch or so wider, and THAT is the only area of the corset 
that is actually a straight front!  That's the part that should be flat and 
straight and in no way curvaceous in an Edwardian straight-front corset. 
Everything else curves.

-E House

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: youtube film
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Status: RO


> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Date: June 13, 2007 12:04:00 PM CDT
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
>
> <snipped>
>>
>>>
>>> http://tinyurl.com/23mle4
>>>
>>> Enjoy!
>>>
>>> Anne
>
>
>
> Am I the only one that thinks this is quite horrible?
>
> Suzi
>
Well, no.  I didn't enjoy it either.  I can appreciate the technique  
but IMO it's not pretty or informative.

Suzanne
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about Viking Fabrics
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2007 22:03:24 -0400
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Status: RO

On Wednesday 13 June 2007, Jodi Nelson wrote:
> I am looking for evidence of clothing made of silk in 9th-11th C Viking
> society. Any ideas where I should look?
>

The only evidence I know of of actual Viking garments *made* of silk (as 
opposed to being trimmed with silk) are some of the headwear found at the 
Dublin and Coppergate digs.  Elizabeth Wincott Heckett wrote about the Dublin 
finds in this book, which is available from Amazon Marketplace:

Viking Age Headcoverings From Dublin (Medieval Dublin Excavations) (Hardcover)
by Elizabeth Wincott Heckett. 
# Hardcover: 152 pages
# Publisher: Royal Irish Academy (December 2003)
# Language: English
# ISBN-10: 0954385551
# ISBN-13: 978-0954385552

Probably the Coppergate cap is written up in Penelope Walton Rogers's book on 
the textile finds at that site:

Textiles, Cordage and Raw Fibre from 16-22 Coppergate (The Archaeology of 
York)
# Publisher: Council for British Archaeology (1989)
# ISBN-10: 0906780799
# ISBN-13: 978-0906780794

I haven't been able to find this book (it's out of print) but ILL should turn 
up a copy.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: youtube film
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Status: RO

I thought it was pretty cool.  Reminded me of a mushroom trip I took 
once.

Sylrog

On Jun 13, 2007, at 5:19 PM, Suzanne wrote:

>
>> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>> Date: June 13, 2007 12:04:00 PM CDT
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
>>
>> <snipped>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://tinyurl.com/23mle4
>>>>
>>>> Enjoy!
>>>>
>>>> Anne
>>
>>
>>
>> Am I the only one that thinks this is quite horrible?
>>
>> Suzi
>>

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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2007 23:31:59 -0400
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Status: RO

I thought there was a certain beauty about it but I think the producer moved
to quickly.  With fewer paintings and slower segways I think it would have
been less disturbing.  

I thought the quiet peacefulness of many of the faces no matter the time was
rather charming.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: 2007-06-13 13:04
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective

At 18:00 13/06/2007, you wrote:
>Thank you Anne.
>
>>
>>http://tinyurl.com/23mle4
>>
>>Enjoy!
>>
>>Anne



Am I the only one that thinks this is quite horrible?

Suzi 

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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about Viking Fabrics
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2007 20:55:37 -0700
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On Jun 13, 2007, at 4:09 PM, Jodi Nelson wrote:

> I am looking for evidence of clothing made of silk in 9th-11th C  
> Viking society. Any ideas where I should look?

In addition to the headwear that Cathy mentioned, there are a couple  
of good resources for silk used to _trim_ Viking clothing.   
Specifically the publications on textiles from Birka and from the  
Oseburg find.  In both cases, we're talking primarily about narrow  
strips cut from imported decorative silk fabrics that have been  
applied as trim to some garment (although the nature of the garment  
isn't always identifiable).

Heather

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1850s bonnet -opinions anyone?
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Status: RO

A friend pointed me to "Just Two Tailors" 
http://www.just2tailors.com/?category=Hats for their low crown straw hats 
and while I was there I noticed their straw cottage bonnet. To me it looks 
relatively good but I'd like the opinion of more experienced milliners on 
whether it is accurate for the mid to late 1850s?
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/ 

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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: youtube film
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Status: RO

I liked it. Not only was it a test of painter and period, but styles and
techniques. But then I teach art history...
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 11:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: youtube film


I thought it was pretty cool.  Reminded me of a mushroom trip I took
once.

Sylrog

On Jun 13, 2007, at 5:19 PM, Suzanne wrote:

>
>> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>> Date: June 13, 2007 12:04:00 PM CDT
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
>>
>> <snipped>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://tinyurl.com/23mle4
>>>>
>>>> Enjoy!
>>>>
>>>> Anne
>>
>>
>>
>> Am I the only one that thinks this is quite horrible?
>>
>> Suzi
>>

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 1:31 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective


>I thought there was a certain beauty about it but I think the producer 
>moved
> to quickly.  With fewer paintings and slower segways I think it would have
> been less disturbing.
>
> I thought the quiet peacefulness of many of the faces no matter the time 
> was
> rather charming.
>
> Jenn
>
I thought the early Italian Renaissance portraits worked but once they 
started moving into 17th and 18th century portraits the changes were too 
great and it looked disturbing.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 07:01:35 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
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At 04:33 PM 6/13/2007, you wrote:
>It was pretty strange but cleverly done.  The part that worried me was how
>many faces I recognized !!
>
>Anne


I didn't whether to be pleased or worried by how many that I not only 
recognized the painting, but could identify the subject or painter or both...

Dianne


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Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 20:22:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: youtube film
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Wonderful!!!  Thanks so much for sharing.  That's a keeper :)
   
  Chris R.

monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:
  I liked it. Not only was it a test of painter and period, but styles and
techniques. But then I teach art history...
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 11:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: youtube film


I thought it was pretty cool. Reminded me of a mushroom trip I took
once.

Sylrog

On Jun 13, 2007, at 5:19 PM, Suzanne wrote:

>
>> From: Suzi Clarke 
>> Date: June 13, 2007 12:04:00 PM CDT
>> To: Historical Costume 
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
>>
>> 
>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://tinyurl.com/23mle4
>>>>
>>>> Enjoy!
>>>>
>>>> Anne
>>
>>
>>
>> Am I the only one that thinks this is quite horrible?
>>
>> Suzi
 
---------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2007 11:05:40 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective
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Status: RO

Anne Moeller <ladyanne@quik.com> wrote
>
>
>>The metamorphosis between "faces" reminds me of nothing less than the
>>"transformations" in werewolf movies. "An American Werewolf in
>>London" in particular has the whole face stretching and morphing.
>>Ugh! I accept that it is very clever, but goodness it gives me the
>>creeps. Too many horror movies in my youth no doubt!
>
>>Suzi
>
>Ah, yes.  A truly misspent youth :)
>
>It was pretty strange but cleverly done.  The part that worried me was how
>many faces I recognized !!
>
>Anne
>
I liked the early part, the way the expressions change so it looks like 
the woman is turning to greet somone or shyly looking away from the 
viewer. But some of the later faces don't fit together so well, and it 
does get a bit disturbing at the end with the abstract pieces!

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: youtube film
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From: "Schaeffer, Astrida" <astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu>
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Status: RO


My biggest issue was the jumping around in time.
Stylistically/fashion-wise, that kept bugging me!

Astrida


******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

=20
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Subject: [h-cost] NESAT 9
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Status: RO

Just to let you know, the editing of the last=20
papers for NESAT 9 are nearing completion.  I'll=20
pass on how to get it when I know more.

The NESAT 10 conference will be in Copenhagen on=20
14-17 May 2008. Deadline for submission of papers=20
is 1st July 2007.  http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/nesat/

Preliminary program
13 May, Tuesday 18-20: CTR/University of=20
Copenhagen - reception and registration
14 May, Wednesday  9-17: CTR/University of Copenhagen - sessions
15 May, Thursday  9-17: CTR/University of Copenhagen - sessions
16 May, Friday    9-14: CTR/University of Copenhagen - sessions
17 May, Saturday   9-15: Prinsens Pal=E6/National Museum of Denmark -=
 sessions

Other events
National Museum of Denmark - opening of the new=20
exhibition of the prehistoric section.
Lejre Experimental Centre - research visit


Beth

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Subject: [h-cost] book - Natural Dyes by Cardon
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Finally published! ... but the booksellers are still waiting.

Natural Dyes - sources, tradition, technology, science by Dominique 
Cardon ISBN: 190498200x

http://www.archetype.co.uk/ click on 'recently published'

I have had a copy on order from Blackwell for some time.. still 
waiting on a shipping notice.

Beth 

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Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2007 12:47:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] book - Natural Dyes by Cardon
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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Status: RO

> Finally published! ... but the booksellers are still waiting.
>
> Natural Dyes - sources, tradition, technology, science by Dominique
> Cardon ISBN: 190498200x
>
> http://www.archetype.co.uk/ click on 'recently published'

Looks like a cool book but $170??!!  Yikes!

Diana

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] book - Natural Dyes by Cardon
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Status: RO

I had it on order at a substantially better price.. let's see if they 
honor the price on my original order.  BTW other booksellers are 
still offering it at a pretty good price.

Beth

At 01:00 PM 6/16/2007, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2007 12:47:11 -0700 (PDT)
>From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
>
> > Finally published! ... but the booksellers are still waiting.
> >
> > Natural Dyes - sources, tradition, technology, science by Dominique
> > Cardon ISBN: 190498200x
> >
> > http://www.archetype.co.uk/ click on 'recently published'
>
>Looks like a cool book but $170??!!  Yikes!
>
>Diana

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: current DC exhibits
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Status: RO

Liz,

Are these below at the Air & Space Museum as you stated?  We are going to DC 
this week and I wanted to make sure to go to the correct location.


> There's actually one more - the "Treasures of American History" exhibit at 
> the Air and Space Museum has Jackie Kennedy's inaugural gown, Sandra Day 
> O'Connor's judicial robes, a dress of Mary Todd Lincoln's (I can't 
> remember off the top of my head if that was an inaugural gown, or 
> another), a dress  belonging to Margaret Mead (specially made to 
> accomodate her changing dress size every time that she went out on her 
> expeditions), a pair of Marilyn Monroe's gloves (and a pair of Mohammad 
> Ali's boxing gloves), Andrew Jackson's uniform, an outfit of Ray Charles' 
> (gold sequins on black - I suspect they figured the brighter jackets that 
> were on display a year or two ago wouldn't look right in with the other 
> items on display in that area), George Washington's uniform (dress 
> uniform, dating from *after* the American Revolution), a (buffalo?) skin 
> coat belonging to Gen. Custer, a *bunch* of hats dating from the mid 1800s 
> to present-day... a poofy shirt from "Seinfeld", Mr. Roger's sweater (one 
> of... reminds me I need to drop the curator a note about that...)..
>
> and currently a wedding kimono that belonged to a Japanese immigrant to 
> Hawaii.
>
> Hmm... oh, I forgot, the scarecrow costume from the "Wizard of Oz", 
> Dorothy's red shoes, a *gorgeous* Oscar de la Renta (sp?) gown (can't 
> imagine painting and attaching all those gold covered feathers!)...

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Subject: [h-cost] lovely find
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Status: RO

1879 "home robe"
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4260.htm

De

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 18 09:38:22 2007
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] book - Natural Dyes by Cardon
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 13:34:46 +0000
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Status: RO

Wow!  I'm more interested in the Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles.  Based on the description, it might provide more information regarding the weave and fibers of the textiles which, I think, might provide vital clues as to the how and why of fabric behavior on the human body.  For example, if one could look at the spin of the fiber and the weave of the fiber, it could explain why certain extant fabrics in costumes seem to be more stretchy and not wrinkle or more rigid, causing stress wrinkles.  

 
Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles
Rob Janaway and Paul Wyeth & (eds)
ISBN: 1873132794

Happy stitches.
Gia
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com> 

> > Finally published! ... but the booksellers are still waiting. 
> > 
> > Natural Dyes - sources, tradition, technology, science by Dominique 
> > Cardon ISBN: 190498200x 
> > 
> > http://www.archetype.co.uk/ click on 'recently published' 
> 
> Looks like a cool book but $170??!! Yikes! 
> 
> Diana 
> 
> -- 
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net 
> "Everything for the Costumer" 
> 
> "Become the change you want to see in the world." 
> --Ghandi 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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From: Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lovely find
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Status: RO

Now that is an excellent reminder that "old-e time-y" clothing was most definitely not drab and dark. 

Beautiful!

Sheridan P

> 
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>

> 1879 "home robe"
> http://www.antiquedress.com/item4260.htm
> 
> De


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Status: RO

I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an 
interesting question.
What would be your dream costume?
If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.

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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Doublets - front lacing
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Status: RO

Is there any evidence of front lacing of men's doublets or jerkins? I  
see examples on the internet and am curious.

Many thanks, Aylwen
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From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
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Status: RO

A Robe a la Francaise sewn and embroidered by Bjarne, complete with 
corset, pannier, stomacher, hat, cap and purse.

Sigh, just a dream.....
Michelle in Michigan
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Quoting Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>:

> A Robe a la Francaise sewn and embroidered by Bjarne, complete with
> corset, pannier, stomacher, hat, cap and purse.
>
>

or *anything* done by Bjarne .....

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

La Mode Bagatelle's Artistic Reform Tea Gown, View A, in mossy-green velvet (for the overdress) and ivory silk for the underdress. I did spring for the pattern; I just quail before it in terms of my limited skill, especially in light of the materials I would like to use. 

And of course brocade slippers to wear with it. 

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl> 

> I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an 
> interesting question. 
> What would be your dream costume? 
> If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise. 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 10:40:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Doublets - front lacing
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

As a rule they should button, not lace. There's one in
Janet Arnold that has both, but it's an arming
doublet, sort of a fencing jacket, and not typical of
an everyday garment.

MaggiRos

--- garden@netspeed.com.au wrote:

> Is there any evidence of front lacing of men's
> doublets or jerkins? I  
> see examples on the internet and am curious.
> 
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Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 14:33:21 -0500
From: "lauren inzer" <laureninzer@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] late 11th early 12th century
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Status: RO

can anyone direct me to good sources for information on late 11th century
early 12th century german clothing?  i'm working on a project for my
roommate, and need a place to start!

thanks,
arnora

-- 
One can never have too many flowers
~ Audrey Hepburn
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Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 22:21:39 +0200
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Hanna Zickermann <h.zickermann@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

I love the red dress from Bram Stoker=B4s Dracula.=20
And I am fascinated by those medieval "grand=20
assiette" sleeves. My dream is to be able to=20
flat-draft the pattern for every measurement=20
someday. But that=B4s just the skill and not the costume of my dreams...

Hanna

At 16:54 18.06.2007, you wrote:
>I was thinking of what my next costume would be=20
>and I came to an interesting question.
>What would be your dream costume?
>If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

The Holbein Anne of Cleves, down to the smallest detail.
And THEN anything by Bjarne.
And then somewhere to wear them.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Jun 18, 2007, at 4:21 PM, Hanna Zickermann wrote:

> I love the red dress from Bram Stoker=B4s Dracula. And I am =20
> fascinated by those medieval "grand assiette" sleeves. My dream is =20
> to be able to flat-draft the pattern for every measurement someday. =20=

> But that=B4s just the skill and not the costume of my dreams...
>
> Hanna
>
> At 16:54 18.06.2007, you wrote:
>> I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an =20
>> interesting question.
>> What would be your dream costume?
>> If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

At 21:41 18/06/2007, you wrote:
>The Holbein Anne of Cleves, down to the smallest detail.
>And THEN anything by Bjarne.
>And then somewhere to wear them.
>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
>On Jun 18, 2007, at 4:21 PM, Hanna Zickermann wrote:
>
>>I love the red dress from Bram Stoker=B4s Dracula. And I am
>>fascinated by those medieval "grand assiette" sleeves. My dream is
>>to be able to flat-draft the pattern for every measurement someday.
>>But that=B4s just the skill and not the costume of my dreams...
>>
>>Hanna
>>
>>At 16:54 18.06.2007, you wrote:
>>>I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an
>>>interesting question.
>>>What would be your dream costume?
>>>If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.

The crimson velvet dress/dressing gown from "Gone=20
with the Wind", the figure to wear it, and Clark=20
Gable or my dream man, to carry me up those stairs.

Suzi=20

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Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 22:20:35 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lovely find
References: <20070618140043.ZSVR25739.tomts25-srv.bellnexxia.net@smtp1.sympatico.ca>
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Status: RO

Just what I thought!  How wonderful to have the photo as well - but 
looking at the photo I would never have guessed the dress was bright 
red.

I seem to remember that when we only had black and white TV I was more 
used to recognising colours from their shading - watching snooker was 
not as pointless as it sounds.  I wonder if people were better at 
understanding the colours in Victorian photos when colour printing was 
less common?

Jean


Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote
>Now that is an excellent reminder that "old-e time-y" clothing was most 
>definitely not drab and dark.
>
>Beautiful!
>
>Sheridan P
>
>>
>> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
>
>> 1879 "home robe"
>> http://www.antiquedress.com/item4260.htm
>>
>> De
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Doublets - front lacing
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Status: RO

 
Depends what level of society you're talking.
 
am not aware of any among the upper classes off hand, but there's some for  
the lower classes.
 
points rather than laces though.
 
 
 
In a message dated 18/06/2007 19:01:45 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Message:  1
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 09:30:47 +1000
From:  garden@netspeed.com.au
Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Doublets - front  lacing
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Is there any  evidence of front lacing of men's doublets or jerkins? I  
see  examples on the internet and am curious.

Many thanks,  Aylwen







   
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Jean Waddie wrote:
> Just what I thought!  How wonderful to have the photo as well - but 
> looking at the photo I would never have guessed the dress was bright red.
>
> I seem to remember that when we only had black and white TV I was more 
> used to recognising colours from their shading - watching snooker was 
> not as pointless as it sounds.  I wonder if people were better at 
> understanding the colours in Victorian photos when colour printing was 
> less common?
There used to be a page showing the color registrations of different 
real-world colors depending on the old-fashioned B&W photo process used 
-- I found it via this list 5+ years ago.  However, the page is no 
longer there and I haven't been able to find it again.  There was a sort 
of color wheel in black and white with the real-world color listed, for 
each process.

Some of the old types registered yellow as a light color, and some 
registered it as a dark color, and some of the other colors likewise had 
varying representations.  It was very interesting.

cv
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References: <46769CB2.3070400@kabelfoon.nl><200706182021.l5IKLROt014014@net.indra.com><89DDCAB9-C101-47DF-AA35-D31CE298D570@mindspring.com>
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>The crimson velvet dress/dressing gown from "Gone 
>with the Wind", 

The dressing gown is gorgeous.

>the figure to wear it, 

Don't we all wish for that



>Clark Gable

Oh, yum!

>or my dream man,

Better be Keith

>to carry me up those stairs.

>Suzi 

Anne
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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 17:50:59 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lovely find
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In a message dated 6/18/2007 5:27:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk writes:

I wonder  if people were better at 
understanding the colours in Victorian photos  when colour printing was 
less common?



Remember that early photographic processes were more sensitive to blue  
shades, and less to red and yellow--so reds and even yellows will generally  
photograph as dark.  
 
I would love to know if the red is a synthetic or natural dye.
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: [h-cost] Anglo-Saxon in a nutshell?
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I will be attending an event with a theme of Saxons vs. Normans, later this
summer.  My husband and I have elected to side with the Saxons, but as this is
rather earlier than my usual periods, I'm not sure where to start.  How does
Saxon dress differ from Norman dress of roughly the same period?  Are there any
nifty websites that everybody who does 11th Century costuming knows about? I
don't need to be Excruciatingly Correct, but I do want to be identifiably Saxon.

Thank you for any pointers you may have,
Emma
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] late 11th early 12th century
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On Mon, 18 Jun 2007, otsisto wrote:

> I think this is a 1100s manuscript
> http://www.tempora-nostra.de/tempora-nostra/manesse.php?id=203
> click on the pictures for a closer look.

Great manuscript, right locale, wrong period. The illuminations were done
(by two artists) in 1300-25 and 1325-40.

--Robin



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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] late 11th early 12th century
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Status: RO

I think this is a 1100s manuscript
http://www.tempora-nostra.de/tempora-nostra/manesse.php?id=203
click on the pictures for a closer look.

De


-----Original Message-----
can anyone direct me to good sources for information on late 11th century
early 12th century german clothing?  i'm working on a project for my
roommate, and need a place to start!

thanks,
arnora




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Status: RO

This is probably the best overall site to give you a taste of the era.
http://www.regia.org/
In terms of fashion there are certain conventions that have come to be a=
ccepted as differentiating Saxon and Norman, but in period there had bee=
n enough cultural exchange in the decades before The Conquest, that Norm=
ans and Saxons  were probably dressed almost alike.
The convention states that Saxon male tunics are shorter and have tighte=
r sleeves than Norman tunics and that female Norman tunics are tighter f=
itting and have wider sleeves than Saxon tunics. Both these conventions =
are open to argument.
Karen
Seamstrix


-- 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:

I will be attending an event with a theme of Saxons vs. Normans, later t=
his
summer.  My husband and I have elected to side with the Saxons, but as t=
his is
rather earlier than my usual periods, I'm not sure where to start.  How =
does
Saxon dress differ from Norman dress of roughly the same period?  Are th=
ere any
nifty websites that everybody who does 11th Century costuming knows abou=
t? I
don't need to be Excruciatingly Correct, but I do want to be identifiabl=
y Saxon.

Thank you for any pointers you may have,
Emma
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Status: RO

People caught wearing baggy trousers that show underwear in Delcambre, 
Louisiana, USA, will soon face up to six months jail. The new law will make 
wearing saggy trousers an act of indecent exposure.

I think I am going to move to Louisiana,

-C.




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From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
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Status: RO

Well, okay, but you won't be able to build because all the contractors will 
have to move out.  The true meaning of "showing your Union card". :o)

Laurie


>From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
>Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 11:23:43 +1000
>
>People caught wearing baggy trousers that show underwear in Delcambre,
>Louisiana, USA, will soon face up to six months jail. The new law will make
>wearing saggy trousers an act of indecent exposure.
>
>I think I am going to move to Louisiana,
>
>-C.
>
>
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 6/18/2007 9:27:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:

People  caught wearing baggy trousers that show underwear in Delcambre, 
Louisiana,  USA, will soon face up to six months jail. The new law will make 
wearing  saggy trousers an act of indecent exposure.

I think I am going to move  to Louisiana,




***************
 
You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of  Puritanical 
foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's  boxers.[Wonder how race plays 
into it?] What next, banning fat people from  wearing short sleeves? Burkas for 
all women? How about a nice brown shirt and  some jack boots. Like LA towns 
don't have more important things to  legislate.... Pitiful.



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
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Status: RO

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> 
>You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of  Puritanical 
>foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's  boxers.[Wonder how race plays 
>into it?] What next, banning fat people from  wearing short sleeves? Burkas for 
>all women? How about a nice brown shirt and  some jack boots. Like LA towns 
>don't have more important things to  legislate.... Pitiful.
>


Yup.  I'm with you. 


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 23:46:57 -0400
From: "David S. Mallinak" <dragonmatchlock@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an 
> interesting question. What would be your dream costume?
> If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.

My next costume would be an early 18th century copy of (supposedly Royal Scots 
Archers uniform) tartan coat and breeches found in Glamis and Blair Atholl. 
Castles.  Imagine a 18th century tartan coat with slashes, lace, and trim

Your humble and obedient servant,
David S Mallinak

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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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----- Original Message ----
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 19 June, 2007 12:39:51 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)


AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> 
>You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of  Puritanical 
>foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's  boxers.[Wonder how race plays 
>into it?] What next, banning fat people from  wearing short sleeves? Burkas for 
>all women? How about a nice brown shirt and  some jack boots. Like LA towns 
>don't have more important things to  legislate.... Pitiful.
>


>>>Yup.  I'm with you. 


Hear, hear!!


Bella


      _________________________________________________________________________________              

Yahoo!7 Mail has just got even bigger and better with unlimited storage on all webmail accounts.
http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/unlimitedstorage.html


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
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Status: RO

What do they do to you in Lousiana if your slip is showing?  Or if you 
INTENTIONALLY wear a silk camisole as a blouse?

We should go back to the good old values:  Always wear nice underwear in 
case you get run over by a bus!

Fran


> ***************
>  
> You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of  Puritanical 
> foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's  boxers.[Wonder how race plays 
> into it?] What next, banning fat people from  wearing short sleeves? Burkas for 
> all women? How about a nice brown shirt and  some jack boots. Like LA towns 
> don't have more important things to  legislate.... Pitiful.
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 00:37:53 -0400
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Status: RO

On Monday 18 June 2007, David S. Mallinak wrote:
> Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> > I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an
> > interesting question. What would be your dream costume?
> > If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.

You mean, I have to be limited to just one?  :-)

Probably the costume I've been dreaming of for the past 5 years:  a complete 
Birka Viking costume, with a caftan, a diamond twill apron dress, a wool 
tunic trimmed with wool and silver broacaded tablet weaving, a finely pleated 
linen shift, leather turn shoes, and sewn (or nalbinded) socks.  Appropriate 
brooches, beads, etc would be a given.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Status: RO

One teacher I worked with absolutely forbade them in her classroom, as in
"You're in college now, dress like the big boys now!"

Do guys who wear their pants like this really think we ladies will be
impressed by their Mickey Mouse underwear?

We certainly aren't impressed by their physical prowess. Half the time
they can't even walk in those things, let alone run...and they look
REELY, REELY STOOPUD.

Arlys

On Mon, 18 Jun 2007 22:59:49 EDT AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
>  
> In a message dated 6/18/2007 9:27:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:
> 
> People  caught wearing baggy trousers that show underwear in 
> Delcambre, 
> Louisiana,  USA, will soon face up to six months jail. The new law 
> will make 
> wearing  saggy trousers an act of indecent exposure.
> 
> I think I am going to move  to Louisiana,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***************
>  
> You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of  
> Puritanical 
> foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's  boxers.[Wonder how 
> race plays 
> into it?] What next, banning fat people from  wearing short sleeves? 
> Burkas for 
> all women? How about a nice brown shirt and  some jack boots. Like 
> LA towns 
> don't have more important things to  legislate.... Pitiful.
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** See what's free at 
> http://www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 22:52:19 -0700
From: "Karolee Smiley" <felis.lover@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
In-Reply-To: <20070618.221926.3376.0.Cley@juno.com>
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Status: RO

Hey, if that is the only thing they have to worry about, they should be
really happy.  They have room in their jails for dress-code violations?

The main reason people started to dress like that was because you can hide
an amazing number of weapons that way, not because its "sexy".  Most of the
kids who dress that way are not hiding anything.  They are dressed that way
because its cool to look like a "bad boy".
What's new.

Think about it...
And what did you wear when you were young that horrified your parents?
And what did your parents wear that horrified your grandparents?
And so on...
Its the generation gap.   We always think the next generation is indecent.

As awful as it looks, fashion should not be illegal.  Now, if it based on
possible concealment of weapons, that could be a different story.

Although, I have always thought people should need a permit to wear
spandex.  :)

Karolee/Kaitlin


On 6/18/07, Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote:
>
> One teacher I worked with absolutely forbade them in her classroom, as in
> "You're in college now, dress like the big boys now!"
>
> Do guys who wear their pants like this really think we ladies will be
> impressed by their Mickey Mouse underwear?
>
> We certainly aren't impressed by their physical prowess. Half the time
> they can't even walk in those things, let alone run...and they look
> REELY, REELY STOOPUD.
>
> Arlys
>
> On Mon, 18 Jun 2007 22:59:49 EDT AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
> >
> > In a message dated 6/18/2007 9:27:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> > stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:
> >
> > People  caught wearing baggy trousers that show underwear in
> > Delcambre,
> > Louisiana,  USA, will soon face up to six months jail. The new law
> > will make
> > wearing  saggy trousers an act of indecent exposure.
> >
> > I think I am going to move  to Louisiana,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ***************
> >
> > You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of
> > Puritanical
> > foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's  boxers.[Wonder how
> > race plays
> > into it?] What next, banning fat people from  wearing short sleeves?
> > Burkas for
> > all women? How about a nice brown shirt and  some jack boots. Like
> > LA towns
> > don't have more important things to  legislate.... Pitiful.
> >
> >
> >
> > ************************************** See what's free at
> > http://www.aol.com.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Status: RO

Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an 
> interesting question.
> What would be your dream costume?
> If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.
>
Well, I think I'd like to have a full-on Victorian - that period between 
the two bustle phases. Dates, dates - who needs them? From the skin out, 
of course. A day dress. Striped, I think - if that'd be correct.

liz young

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Status: RO

Lately, I've had an overwhelming desire to make a 1660s-80s gown.  I would 
modernize it slightly and make it all fluffy and fancy, but pretty much all 
the changes I can think of making were actually done at some point during 
that period!

Since I no longer get free fabric, though, I must save up for the fluffy 
stuff. Wah.

-E House 

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From: "Silvara" <silvaragreenleaf@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 00:00:22 -0700
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Status: RO

so what about panty peek when a woman bends over in low rise jeans?
argh....

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 6/18/2007 8:03:36 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
>
>  
> In a message dated 6/18/2007 9:27:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:
>
> People  caught wearing baggy trousers that show underwear in Delcambre, 
> Louisiana,  USA, will soon face up to six months jail. The new law will
make 
> wearing  saggy trousers an act of indecent exposure.
>
> I think I am going to move  to Louisiana,
>
>
>
>
> ***************
>  
> You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of 
Puritanical 
> foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's  boxers.[Wonder how race
plays 
> into it?] What next, banning fat people from  wearing short sleeves?
Burkas for 
> all women? How about a nice brown shirt and  some jack boots. Like LA
towns 
> don't have more important things to  legislate.... Pitiful.
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 00:44:10 -0700
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Status: RO

I hear that in New York the cops LIKE the baggy pants style. Seems the
crooks don't pull up the pants as they are trying to flee the scene of a
crime and so are easily caught. And they say women are slaves to =
fashion!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 8:00 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)


=20
In a message dated 6/18/2007 9:27:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, =20
stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:

People  caught wearing baggy trousers that show underwear in Delcambre,=20
Louisiana,  USA, will soon face up to six months jail. The new law will =
make

wearing  saggy trousers an act of indecent exposure.

I think I am going to move  to Louisiana,




***************
=20
You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of  =
Puritanical=20
foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's  boxers.[Wonder how race
plays=20
into it?] What next, banning fat people from  wearing short sleeves? =
Burkas
for=20
all women? How about a nice brown shirt and  some jack boots. Like LA =
towns=20
don't have more important things to  legislate.... Pitiful.



************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

Without the limitation of time or money, it would be either Queen
Elizabeth's dress in the Pelican Portrait or the Phoenix dress with all the
proper detail.  Just can't imagine...

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Deredere Galbraith
Sent: June 18, 2007 10:55 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Your dream costume

I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an 
interesting question.
What would be your dream costume?
If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 6/19/2007 1:23:37 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cley@juno.com writes:

One  teacher I worked with absolutely forbade them in her classroom, as  in
"You're in college now, dress like the big boys now!"

Do guys who  wear their pants like this really think we ladies will be
impressed by  their Mickey Mouse underwear?

We certainly aren't impressed by their  physical prowess. Half the time
they can't even walk in those things, let  alone run...and they look
REELY, REELY  STOOPUD.




***************
 
Very true. All you say is true. It does look stupid on anyone over  16. And 
banning them in a classroom or at the local Country Club is  actually OK with 
me. But for the town to make it a CRIME!... with a fine  and all. Not funny.
 
This is about fashion, y'know....just not historical fashion [yet]. But we  
should discuss something ...well, less scary!
 
 



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

No restrictions at all?

I would love to make at least One gown with all underpinnings and accessories for every period, every country/culture beginning around the 10th century...

That's a big dream...
Gia

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: lauren.walker@comcast.net 

> La Mode Bagatelle's Artistic Reform Tea Gown, View A, in mossy-green velvet (for 
> the overdress) and ivory silk for the underdress. I did spring for the pattern; 
> I just quail before it in terms of my limited skill, especially in light of the 
> materials I would like to use. 
> 
> And of course brocade slippers to wear with it. 
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: Deredere Galbraith 
> 
> > I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an 
> > interesting question. 
> > What would be your dream costume? 
> > If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise. 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> _______________________________________________ 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
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Status: RO

> Very true. All you say is true. It does look stupid on anyone over  
> 16. And 
> banning them in a classroom or at the local Country Club is  
> actually OK with 
> me. But for the town to make it a CRIME!... with a fine  and all. 
> Not funny.

I agree. It screams of harkening back to sumptuary laws.

Arlys
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From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

Sorry if you get this message more than once.
It's been several hours since I send a message but it doesn't appear on 
the list.

Mmmm I think I found several dresses.

I love this pink one
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/J1.jpg
But it will cost many meters of fabric.

I also love this style of dress.
Especially the bodice.
I would like it a bit more modern I think.
In black with lots of embroidery, lace and some sparkling diamonds....
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/J2.jpg

Mmmm Yum.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/J3.jpg


I want a male 18th century white silk with gold embroidery  complete set.
And then wear it to modern party's.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
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Status: RO

Lavolta Press wrote:

> What do they do to you in Lousiana if your slip is showing?  Or if you 
> INTENTIONALLY wear a silk camisole as a blouse?

I would bet it is selectively enforced.

About 12 years ago Dallas TX enacted a law against wearing bandannas. 
Anyone caught wearing one is subject to arrest and imprisonment. I was 
in college at the time, and was teasing one of the girls in my class who 
was wearing one, saying she'd go to jail. She was surprised, and a 
little worried until I assured her that her skin was far to light 
coloured for anyone to bother her about it. The truth is, the law was 
being selectively used to pick up "suspected gang members" within the city.

I'm sure there's a number of similar laws across the country.



Dawn





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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

Ooooh, I was going to say that! Of course I have
absolutely no place to wear it, but I can dream...

MaggiRos



--- Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com> wrote:

> A Robe a la Francaise sewn and embroidered by
> Bjarne, complete with 
> corset, pannier, stomacher, hat, cap and purse.
> 
> Sigh, just a dream.....
> Michelle in Michigan
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From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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Status: RO

These images are a bit of a mix. (Check the sources at the bottom to 
help identify which are considered Saxon and which Norman.) But it may 
serve as a general overview or starting point.
http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/rhuddlan/images/

And of course, in terms of books, Gale Owen-Crocker's is a great resource:
http://www.amazon.com/Dress-Anglo-Saxon-England-Revised-Enlarged/dp/1843830817
(and available through interlibrary loan)


- Hope

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hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vermont
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Status: RO

for starters
A bit early about 10th c.
http://www.regia.org/
http://www.regia.org/listings.htm
11th c.
http://www.gelfling.dds.nl/anglo-saxon.html
http://www.moondragon.org/costumes/11cdress.html
http://members.lycos.co.uk/Wulfingas/11thdress.htm

book
http://www.amazon.com/Dress-Anglo-Saxon-England-Revised-Enlarged/dp/18438308
17

-----Original Message-----
I will be attending an event with a theme of Saxons vs. Normans, later this
summer.  My husband and I have elected to side with the Saxons, but as this
is
rather earlier than my usual periods, I'm not sure where to start.  How does
Saxon dress differ from Norman dress of roughly the same period?  Are there
any
nifty websites that everybody who does 11th Century costuming knows about? I
don't need to be Excruciatingly Correct, but I do want to be identifiably
Saxon.

Thank you for any pointers you may have,
Emma


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

At 05:40 PM 6/18/2007, you wrote:
> >Clark Gable
>
>Oh, yum! >>


Or Cary Grant

Or James Stewart

Or George Clooney, who reminds me more and more of Cary Grant as he ages...

But my dream costume would be either Elizabeth I's Pelican gown, or 
Jane Seymour's Holbein gown

Dianne 

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Status: RO

In no particular order:

The Infanta Isabella (Photo in 20,000 Years of Costume)
The pannier gown on the cover of Hollywood and History
The Bob Mackie Elizabeth I that Whoopi Goldberg wore at the Oscars 
several years ago.

Can you guess I like glitz?

Sandy

At 01:00 PM 6/18/2007, you wrote:

>Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 16:54:42 +0200
>From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
>Subject: [h-cost] Your dream costume
>
>What would be your dream costume?
>If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Status: RO

Karolee Smiley wrote...
> Think about it...
> And what did you wear when you were young that horrified your parents?
> And what did your parents wear that horrified your grandparents?
> And so on...


I recall my grandmother speaking to my older brother in the 1960s as he was 
dressed to go out for the night in his velvet jacket and fashion jeans, "I 
really love your jacket but why do you have those old dungarees on...?"


I, of course, never wore anything unusual in the 1970s:
High-waisted cuffed baggies (trousers tight at the top then flairing to an 
Oxford bag) with three buttons at the waist and, probably, testicular 
separation;
A body shirt;
A tight, red, blue and green V-neck ribbed pullover that had a wide band at 
the bottom;
8" platform shoes,

-C.


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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 07:27:08 -0300
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Status: RO

My dream costume is being worked on right now.  An embroidered jacket, 
slashed silk petticoats and a coat from the early 17th century.  We have 
been plotting for about six months now...the embroidery has begun and now I 
am in search for the perfect silk.

Yes, I am spoiled!

Kelly



An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign.


Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician


>Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>>I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an 
>>interesting question. What would be your dream costume?
>>If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.

_________________________________________________________________
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Status: RO

Mmmm I think I found several dresses.

I love this pink one
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/J1.jpg
But it will cost many meters of fabric.

I also love this style of dress.
Especially the bodice.
I would like it a bit more modern I think.
In black with lots of embroidery, lace and some sparkling diamonds....
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/J2.jpg

Mmmm Yum.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/tijdelijk/J3.jpg

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Status: RO

Oops I forgot one!

I would love to have a male 18th century white silk with gold embroidery
  complete set.
And than wear it to modern party's.



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Status: RO

Dawn wrote:
>
> I would bet it is selectively enforced.

I'm sure you are right -- and it's probably unConstitutional, even 
without selective enforcement.

cv
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Subject: [h-cost] Mushroom Pleating
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Status: RO

Does anyone know what mushroom pleating is, and how to do it? I'm trying to make a ~1810 chemisette, view A from page 50 & 51 of Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion 1_, and she just says 

"A white cambric chemisette with three mushroom pleated frills forming the collar. These frills are made of strips of cambric cut on the straight grain I 1/2" deep at the center front widening to 2 1/4" at the center back and 90" long. They are mushroom pleated onto 1/16" wide tapes and then stitched to the neck band which is a crossway piece 15 3/4" long."

Doing a websearch only turns up commercial pleating stuff, and I want to know how to do it by hand...

Thanks in advance!
     -sunny

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore
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>> Think about it...
>> And what did you wear when you were young that horrified=20
>your parents?

Hot pink velour hip-hugger bell-bottoms... That were from the thrift
shop and were waaay too short (but I loved them for some obscure reason
and so didn't care). And it was 7th grade in 1975, my first year freed
from Catholic school uniforms, so I was oblivious to fashion!=20

Astrida

******************
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
astrida.schaeffer@unh.edu
Fax: (603) 862-2191
******************

=20
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mushroom Pleating
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Status: RO

This must mean tiny knife pleats....think the underside of a mushroom  cap.
 
At home you might get the effect by taking the finished strip  and sewing in 
tiny full return pleats at the hem and the end to be sewn to  the chemisette, 
then pinning it taught to the ironing board so the pleats run  the full width, 
and then steaming them in and finally actually touching the hot  iron to the 
fabric to get a crisp pleat. Then take the sewing out of the  hem.
 
This is not unlike "primitive pleating" where you gather both ends of the  
fabric, wet it in boiling hot water, roll the gathered piece up and hang it with 
 a weight at the bottom to keep it taught while it dries. But this does not  
create crisp even pleats.... more like a one way crinkle. 



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mushroom Pleating
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Status: RO

I'm sorry....I meant to add that you might be able to get the tiny even  
pleats by doing something like a smocking technique...like tiny cartridge  
pleats... at both ends of the frill. Then letting it collapse flat in one  
direction... the same at both ends.
 
I'm making this up, y'know. I've never done  this.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore
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Status: RO

Ohhhhh... when I think of all the polyester shirts in Ice cream colors and  
stripes with long collars and wide cuffs I wore in prep-school....Yikes!  
['71-'75]
They all had little tiny round burn holes with melted edges in them  from pot 
seeds exploding in all those joints I and my long haired friends were  
smoking. My Mother used to ask "What IS causing these burn holes???" 
"Oh, like, I wore it in welding class, man."
 
Did anyone watch "Top Design" on Bravo....the Project Runway-like show for  
interior designers? No? Well it did suck!  Anyway, Jonathan Adler looked  like 
he had been dressed by Peter Max with mint green corduroy blazers, yellow  
shirts and ties that looked 5" wide. What was wrong with  him????



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

Oops I forgot one!

I would love to have a male 18th century white silk with gold embroidery 
  complete set.
And than wear it to modern party's.


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From: "margaret" <m.p.decker@att.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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>I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an 
> interesting question.
> What would be your dream costume?
> If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.


The red Bronzino and a slimmer me.
Margaret
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Status: RO

What about pants that show more (less?) than underwear? Are they going
after the (stereotyped) plumbers, too?

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of stilskin@netspace.net.au
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 9:24 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)

People caught wearing baggy trousers that show underwear in Delcambre,=20
Louisiana, USA, will soon face up to six months jail. The new law will
make=20
wearing saggy trousers an act of indecent exposure.

I think I am going to move to Louisiana,

-C.




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This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
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Status: RO

My daughter says thank goodness they ARE wearing underwear.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cynthia J Ley
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 10:17 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)


One teacher I worked with absolutely forbade them in her classroom, as in
"You're in college now, dress like the big boys now!"

Do guys who wear their pants like this really think we ladies will be
impressed by their Mickey Mouse underwear?

We certainly aren't impressed by their physical prowess. Half the time
they can't even walk in those things, let alone run...and they look
REELY, REELY STOOPUD.

Arlys

On Mon, 18 Jun 2007 22:59:49 EDT AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
>  
> In a message dated 6/18/2007 9:27:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:
> 
> People  caught wearing baggy trousers that show underwear in 
> Delcambre, 
> Louisiana,  USA, will soon face up to six months jail. The new law 
> will make 
> wearing  saggy trousers an act of indecent exposure.
> 
> I think I am going to move  to Louisiana,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***************
>  
> You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of  
> Puritanical 
> foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's  boxers.[Wonder how 
> race plays 
> into it?] What next, banning fat people from  wearing short sleeves? 
> Burkas for 
> all women? How about a nice brown shirt and  some jack boots. Like 
> LA towns 
> don't have more important things to  legislate.... Pitiful.
> 
> 
> 
> ************************************** See what's free at 
> http://www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
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Status: RO


On Jun 18, 2007, at 21:59, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>
> You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of   
> Puritanical
> foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's  boxers.[Wonder how  
> race plays
> into it?] What next, banning fat people from  wearing short  
> sleeves? Burkas for
> all women? How about a nice brown shirt and  some jack boots. Like  
> LA towns
> don't have more important things to  legislate.... Pitiful.
>
>

That's a great idea. We make and sell both the brown shirts and the  
jack boots in stitch by stitch and peg by peg repros. Mostly for  
museums, hero peices, and reenactors, but we do ship a lot of them to  
Australia. For your information, the correct educated term is  
'marching boots." Jack boots were for 17th century cavalry and are  
something else entirely. Here're the links:

http://www.lostbattalions.com/german33-45/ss/ssshirts/ 
sswovenbrownshirt.html
http://www.lostbattalions.com/german33-45/bootrepros/jackboots.html


Ed Walton
Lost Battalions Military Reproductions
http://www.lostbattalions.com
972-690-1945


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From: Ed Walton <recon36@airmail.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 14:48:36 -0500
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On Jun 19, 2007, at 8:38, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>
> This is about fashion, y'know....just not historical fashion [yet].  
> But we
> should discuss something ...well, less scary!
>

This IS historical fashion from about '52, which was the first time  
it came around. It was only around about 2 years that time. It's held  
on way too long this time, but new or original it ain't.


Ed Walton
Lost Battalions Military Reproductions
http://www.lostbattalions.com
972-690-1945
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

> The Bob Mackie Elizabeth I that Whoopi Goldberg wore at the Oscars
I'd never seen it.  Thanks for bringing it up.  Wow!   He's ever
inventive.  I'd love to have *anything* he'd make for me.
http://www.worldfilms.com/xlpic.cfm?pic=whoopi.jpg&folder=memorabilia
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] How clothing style can effect law (RE to OT "Baggy")
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Status: RO

How clothing style can effect law:

Well, I live several miles from Delcambre LA and a lot of us think this is just great.  The people the law targeted wore pants several inches below the hip line; some almost to their knees.  The pants would pull downward on whatever was worn underneath.  Believe me; this sometimes went well beyond a little skin showing or thong strap not to mention near-see-through white briefs.  Race?  Funny, I haven't come across anyone who has even thought anything of the kind.  Unless you mean pro-Jewish.  That's the only race we haven't caught with the pants-to-the-knees. 

Delcambre is a small town and several town citizens complained about this "style" of dress.  It was requested that this matter be brought up at a counsel meeting.  The people elected by the town citizens felt they should give this a bit of attention; after all, the town citizens were asking it be done.  SO, with just a little bit of time needed to be set aside, the new law was developed.  Yes, more important things were discussed and have been discussed since then...  such as the ever-going rebuilding efforts that have been the main focus of the entire town since the hurricane nearly wiped it out.  However, the town officials still choose to pay attention to all the needs and concerns brought to them by their citizens.  Now you know the rest of the story.

---------- Original Message -----------
> Message: 2 
> Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 00:00:22 -0700 
> From: "Silvara" <silvaragreenleaf@earthlink.net> 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?) 
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com> 
> Message-ID: <410-2200762197022328@earthlink.net> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII 
> 
> so what about panty peek when a woman bends over in low rise jeans? 
> argh.... 
> 
> Silvara 
> 
> > [Original Message] 
> > From: <AlbertCat@aol.com> 
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com> 
> > Date: 6/18/2007 8:03:36 PM 
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?) 
> > 
> >   
> > In a message dated 6/18/2007 9:27:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,   
> > stilskin@netspace.net.au writes: 
> > 
> > People  caught wearing baggy trousers that show underwear in Delcambre, 
> > Louisiana,  USA, will soon face up to six months jail. The new law will 
> make 
> > wearing  saggy trousers an act of indecent exposure. 
> > 
> > I think I am going to move  to Louisiana, 
> > *************** 
> > You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of 
> Puritanical 
> > foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's  boxers.[Wonder how race 
> plays 
> > into it?] What next, banning fat people from  wearing short sleeves? 
> Burkas for 
> > all women? How about a nice brown shirt and  some jack boots. Like LA 
> towns 
> > don't have more important things to  legislate.... Pitiful. 
> >

 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] How clothing style can effect law (RE to OT "Baggy")
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 15:26:24 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

Back in the '60's more than one town or city actually enacted laws on =
minimal skirt length when the miniskirt jumped the pond from Carnaby =
Street to stateside. For guys, the Beatles' haircut roused similar ire.

Many public schools are banning the droopy pants, along with anything =
gang and/or blatant advertising as well as culturally questionable--crop =
tops, anything alcohol, drug, sex related, even witty double-entendres. =
Extreme hair colors, such as neon blue or styles too. Basically anything =
considered a disruption to learning or "name brand" or style that might =
elicit envy up to forceable removeable from wearer. This new movement =
seems even more severe than the school dress codes I experienced =
concerning miniskirts, hot pants, slacks for girls, tennis shoes, =
etc--as all of the above were eventually permitted.

Cindy Abel=20

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On Behalf Of Sonja (LS-LAMP)
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 3:05 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] How clothing style can effect law (RE to OT "Baggy")

How=A0clothing style=A0can=A0effect law:

Well, I live several miles from Delcambre LA and a lot of us think this =
is just great.=A0 The people the=A0law targeted wore pants=A0several =
inches below the hip line; some almost to their knees.=A0 The pants =
would pull=A0downward on=A0whatever was worn underneath.=A0 Believe me; =
this sometimes went well beyond a little skin showing or thong strap not =
to mention near-see-through white briefs.=A0 Race?=A0 Funny, I haven't =
come across anyone who has even thought anything of the kind.=A0 Unless =
you mean pro-Jewish.=A0 That's the only race=A0we haven't caught with =
the pants-to-the-knees.=A0

Delcambre is a small town and=A0several town citizens complained about =
this "style" of dress.=A0 It was requested that this matter be brought =
up at a counsel meeting.=A0 The people elected by the town citizens felt =
they should give=A0this a=A0bit of attention; after all, the town =
citizens were asking it be done.=A0 SO,=A0with just a little bit of time =
needed to be set aside, the new law=A0was developed.=A0 Yes, more =
important things were discussed and have been discussed since then...=A0 =
such as the=A0ever-going rebuilding efforts that have been=A0the main =
focus of the=A0entire town since the hurricane nearly wiped=A0it out.=A0 =
However, the town officials=A0still choose to pay attention to all the =
needs and concerns=A0brought to them by their citizens.=A0 Now you know =
the rest of the story.

---------- Original Message -----------
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 00:00:22 -0700
> From: "Silvara" <silvaragreenleaf@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <410-2200762197022328@earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3DUS-ASCII
>=20
> so what about panty peek when a woman bends over in low rise jeans?=20
> argh....=20
>=20
> Silvara
>=20
> > [Original Message]
> > From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Date: 6/18/2007 8:03:36 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
> >=20
> > =A0=20
> > In a message dated 6/18/2007 9:27:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20
> > stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:
> >=20
> > People =A0caught wearing baggy trousers that show underwear in=20
> > Delcambre, Louisiana, =A0USA, will soon face up to six months jail.=20
> > The new law will
> make
> > wearing =A0saggy trousers an act of indecent exposure.=20
> >=20
> > I think I am going to move =A0to Louisiana,
> > ***************
> > You go right ahead and move there, Deary. I find this type of
> Puritanical
> > foolishness more obscene that seeing someone's =A0boxers.[Wonder how =

> > race
> plays
> > into it?] What next, banning fat people from =A0wearing short =
sleeves?=20
> Burkas for
> > all women? How about a nice brown shirt and =A0some jack boots. Like =

> > LA
> towns
> > don't have more important things to =A0legislate.... Pitiful.=20
> >

=20
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore
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Status: RO

> 8" platform shoes,
> 
> -C.

Oh my word! How on earth did you walk in them?

High heels are such a foreign concept to me. I've been singing my whole
life, and singers should never wear a heel over an inch high (throws off
your balance, which throws off your breathing). But then, being 5'9", I
never had to be concerned about being 'tall' either. ;)

Arlys
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anglo-Saxon in a nutshell?
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Status: RO

In terms of differentiation, use decoration and jewellery.  Saxons go 
for braid, embroidery, and bling.  Normans are restrained and plain, 
just a bit of contrasting facing on cuffs and necklines.

Not necessarily accurate, but good shorthand for that kind of event.

Jean


00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote
>
>I will be attending an event with a theme of Saxons vs. Normans, later this
>summer.  My husband and I have elected to side with the Saxons, but as this is
>rather earlier than my usual periods, I'm not sure where to start.  How does
>Saxon dress differ from Norman dress of roughly the same period?  Are there any
>nifty websites that everybody who does 11th Century costuming knows about? I
>don't need to be Excruciatingly Correct, but I do want to be 
>identifiably Saxon.
>
>Thank you for any pointers you may have,
>Emma
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 08:46:18 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How clothing style can effect law (RE to OT "Baggy")
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Status: RO

Sonja (LS-LAMP) wrote:

>The pants would pull downward on whatever was worn underneath.  Believe me; this sometimes went well beyond a little skin showing or thong strap not to mention near-see-through white briefs
>  
>

So?  Surely that is covered by existing indecent exposure laws.  

>Delcambre is a small town and several town citizens complained about this "style" of dress.  [...]  However, the town officials still choose to pay attention to all the needs and concerns brought to them by their citizens.  
>

The mere fact that "several citizens" don't like something doesn't mean 
that it can or should be prohibited by law-- I believe the U.S. 
Constitution agrees with me on this.  It's also _silly_. 


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 17:29:39 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore
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Status: RO

Well, at least, when WE wore low-slung jeans in the late '60s-early '70s,  we 
took great pains to be sure our blouses didn't pull out--remember the torture 
 of bodysuits?  
 
Ann Wass



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore
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Status: RO

>> 8" platform shoes,
>>
>> -C.
>
> Oh my word! How on earth did you walk in them?
>
> High heels are such a foreign concept to me. I've been singing my whole
> life, and singers should never wear a heel over an inch high (throws off
> your balance, which throws off your breathing). But then, being 5'9", I
> never had to be concerned about being 'tall' either. ;)
>
> Arlys

I spent a great deal of my live in musical theater, singing and dancing in 
3"+ heels.  You need to learn how to stand, walk and dance, but believe me, 
you can sing in them, you just need to know how.

I also did ballroom and latin dance professionally, with a dance partner who 
was 6'8".  (I'm 5'2").  My dance shoes had 5" heels, because otherwise we 
looked ridiculous.  Even now, after a catastrophic car accident, back 
injuries and arthritis, I can wear heels, just not for every day, or all 
day.

Melusine 

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Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 14:41:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

My dream costume has been this one, of Elizabeth de
Valois, Queen of Spain.
http://tlsun.com/society/pics/ElizabethValois.jpg

Now, I do plan on making this one someday, with full
embroidery and jewels, the whole shebang. I just need
to work on my skills some more.

My next big project, which will take me a year at
least to reseach and embroidery parts (where I hope to
continue to lose weight) will be to reproduce this one
in some similar manner.
http://www.myartprints.com/a/peake-robert/portrait-of-elizabeth-bux.html
I can't find the image in the museum online right now,
but I did get a postcard from them to work from.

Kimiko



 
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

Dopes anyone know for sure, is the main fabric of this
dress embroidered, or voided velvet or satin, or
brocade, or what?  Not the embroidered gardes, but the
ground fabric.

I LOVE that dress. It's just about the most truly
royal gown I can think of.

MaggiRos


--- Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:

> My dream costume has been this one, of Elizabeth de
> Valois, Queen of Spain.
> http://tlsun.com/society/pics/ElizabethValois.jpg
> 

Reading:
[lunchtime at work]  The Pirate Wars, Peter Earle
[bedside]  The Dresden Files, (all of them), Jim Butcher
[about to finish]  Strong Poison, Dorothy L. Sayers
[CD in the car]  The silver Chair, C.S. Lewis
Just finished: The Invention of Hugo Cabret, Brian Selznick


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)
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Status: RO

 
do lads still dress like that?  the baggy pants showing the underwear  I mean 
- it's sooooo 90s.   :o)
 
 
it's ridiculous but I can't help feeling that banning them is a bit  more 
ridiculous.  and making it an arrestable offence is just stupid.  
 
every generation tries to offend the generations that came before.   it's 
natural.  when I was a kid it was ripped jeans.  the more  backside hanging out 
the better!
 
there's a thing over here at the mo with ppl being arrested for  t-shirts 
with slogans on them (b***ocks to blair being the main  offender).   and detained 
under terrorism laws.  which does make  me think it's a distranction from 
stuff that's really  wrong.




   
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore 
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Status: RO

 
 
ripped jeans.
 
and really heavy make up.
 
and almost exclusively black.





   
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]
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Status: RO

Heh ... someone doctored this image pretty good there with her own
face instead of the real one.

Here is a better shot and a more accurate representation of the
painting.
http://thumb18.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/58/50/2365258500094285158cCopNf_th.jpg

:)

Chiara


On Tue, June 19, 2007 5:18 pm, MaggiRos wrote:
> Dopes anyone know for sure, is the main fabric of this
> dress embroidered, or voided velvet or satin, or
> brocade, or what?  Not the embroidered gardes, but the
> ground fabric.
>
> I LOVE that dress. It's just about the most truly
> royal gown I can think of.
>
> MaggiRos

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 18:49:50 -0500
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Status: RO

I have plans to make this dress and from what I can tell is that it is
embroidery. It is not velvet though a short haired velvet wouldn't be bad
for a rendition of the gown.

http://www.marileecody.com/isabel.jpg
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net/isabeldevalois.JPG

bigger picture
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10526_08a.jpg

close up
http://www.songsmyth.com/1560french/valoisforepartcloseup.jpg

I presently have some salmon coloured satin reserved for the gown. The
sleeves and forepart with be off white. So I am not being exact to the
portrait. For the partlet I am most definitely fudging with the jewels. I
found square plastic segmented trim that I separated and perma-markered the
jewel in the square, maroon.
Sadly, I health and schedule has made it impossible to work on it at this
time.

De

-----Original Message-----
Dopes anyone know for sure, is the main fabric of this dress embroidered, or
voided velvet or satin, or brocade, or what?  Not the embroidered gardes,
but the ground fabric.

I LOVE that dress. It's just about the most truly
royal gown I can think of.

MaggiRos


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Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 17:28:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thank you. I thought it looked funny, but a google
dredge didn't show up any other versions of the full
gown. Thankfully I have it in print to scan and detail
later.

And the image you showed seems to be a thumbnail, not
a full image.

Kimiko



--- Chiara Francesca <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Heh ... someone doctored this image pretty good
> there with her own
> face instead of the real one.
> 
> Here is a better shot and a more accurate
> representation of the
> painting.
>
http://thumb18.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/58/50/2365258500094285158cCopNf_th.jpg
> 
> :)
> 
> Chiara
> 
> 
> On Tue, June 19, 2007 5:18 pm, MaggiRos wrote:
> > Dopes anyone know for sure, is the main fabric of
> this
> > dress embroidered, or voided velvet or satin, or
> > brocade, or what?  Not the embroidered gardes, but
> the
> > ground fabric.
> >
> > I LOVE that dress. It's just about the most truly
> > royal gown I can think of.
> >
> > MaggiRos
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun 19 21:02:33 2007
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Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 21:00:32 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How clothing style can effect law (RE to OT "Baggy")
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 6/19/2007 4:05:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sonja@louisiana.edu writes:

 
Delcambre is a small town and several town citizens complained  about this 
"style" of dress
 
Now you know the rest of the story.


 
So if "several citizens" [I wonder how many] complained, say about  churches 
in town because they were atheists, I'm sure the town council would  create a 
law banning churches, right?
 
The rest of the story sounds just like the 1st part of the  story....stupid! 
What did you think I thought had happened? That it was just a  whim? It's 
still pitiful.









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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 21:06:15 -0400
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Status: RO

On Tuesday 19 June 2007, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net wrote:
> No restrictions at all?
>
> I would love to make at least One gown with all underpinnings and
> accessories for every period, every country/culture beginning around the
> 10th century...
>
> That's a big dream...

But one I can relate too.  In a sense I've been working on it for years.... 
though there are some periods and places I'd probably ignore.  ;-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

>I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an 
>interesting question.
> What would be your dream costume?
> If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.

Well, I tend to make my dream costumes.  My good friends and family bought 
the materials for my Laureling gown:  10 yards of shot silk, silver metal 
lace, 150 freshwater pearls = one 1635 Cavalier gown.

Right now I'd like to have time to finish the mermaid's costume that I'll 
actually be able to swim in.

As far as historic costumes, I'd like a full, from the skin out, embroidered 
silk robe francaise and all the accoutrements.  I'm perfectly capable of 
making and embroidering it, it's just finding the time with all of my 
customers' orders.

Melusine 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore
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Status: RO

> >> 8" platform shoes,
> > Oh my word! How on earth did you walk in them?

With a lot of ease, in fact.

Proportionally, they were the same as a normal shoe. The heel was about 8" 
high, the sole was 7 1/2". There was a curved cut-away under the toe to aid in 
stepping and they were made from polyurethane, a rubberish compound that was 
sturdy enough without the weight. Walk? Hell, I could run in them and the way 
I was dresed back then, I needed to be able to run!

These shoes were shoes, not a boot or ankle covering thing and I had no fear 
of them. Funilly enough, some years later when designing hooves that were 
almost as high for a costume, I built the things right up over the calf with 
strapping and buckling to prevent ankle injury...ah, how cowardice takes us 
with age...

-C.



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From: "Becky Rautine" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 23:19:58 -0400
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Status: RO

I think that the fabric for the front of the underskirt panel is low sheen 
satin (or duponi silk with some shimmery threads every so often laid into 
the weave but it could be just the variation of the silk when it is hand 
spun) with maybe a jacquard weave of a pattern. The few areas where the 
pattern sticks out more is an embellishment of looped threads that were 
sometimes made of fine metals like silver or gold. I don't know the term for 
that kind of embroidery technique but it is loops that stick out from the 
material, like the way people make the wool rugs with the punch tools. I 
don't think it is the voided velvet.
I too have wanted one like this. I think the sleeves would be the most 
challenging. I've seen others who posted how they did it but it still looks 
complicated. Sone use slits, while others make shaped spiral pieces that are 
attached at certain points.
I bought all the patterns I can find on this period. Lots of fabrics I may 
use and those dream dresses still await my needle to bring them life. Shame 
I moved away from the PA Renaissance Faire and the fun I had last year. I 
made dresses for myself and my daughter. It rained the weekend she was to be 
Princess Elizabeth (her name really is Elizabeth R) and her costume was 
heavy enough without adding wet to it. She still loved to wear it around the 
house to play dress-up. I worked a whole year on hers. IT was the pinkish 
dress worn by the 13 year old Princess Elizabeth. Appropiate for a young 
lady starting out in the dressing-up fun of Renaissance periods.
Sincerely,
Rebecca Rautine




From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]
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FILETIME=[D825C4C0:01C7B2BF]

Dopes anyone know for sure, is the main fabric of this
dress embroidered, or voided velvet or satin, or
brocade, or what?  Not the embroidered gardes, but the
ground fabric.

I LOVE that dress. It's just about the most truly
royal gown I can think of.

MaggiRos


--- Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:

 > My dream costume has been this one, of Elizabeth de
 > Valois, Queen of Spain.
 > http://tlsun.com/society/pics/ElizabethValois.jpg
 >

Reading:
[lunchtime at work]  The Pirate Wars, Peter Earle
[bedside]  The Dresden Files, (all of them), Jim Butcher
[about to finish]  Strong Poison, Dorothy L. Sayers
[CD in the car]  The silver Chair, C.S. Lewis
Just finished: The Invention of Hugo Cabret, Brian Selznick


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
      Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] volunteering
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Status: RO

I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a volunteer at 
a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, it's a farm house, 
but it looks like it could be fun. I've met some of the other ladies and 
they're nice.

Wish me luck. I don't know if they're going to interview me tomorrow or 
have me come back later, but I'm nervous I'll say something stupid and 
they won't want me. I got turned away from another volunteer job at a 
site once because I didn't have any experience 'interpreting'. I'm 
hoping this one goes better. They seem a lot more low-key.

Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the 'job'?



Dawn

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From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <137408.76411.qm@web32213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 23:28:27 -0500
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Status: RO

Sorry .. http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/557253511xAShgE?start=12

Try that link and scroll down to her picture then click on it for the larger 
images. :)

Chiara

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]


> Thank you. I thought it looked funny, but a google
> dredge didn't show up any other versions of the full
> gown. Thankfully I have it in print to scan and detail
> later.
>
> And the image you showed seems to be a thumbnail, not
> a full image.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
>
> --- Chiara Francesca <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Heh ... someone doctored this image pretty good
>> there with her own
>> face instead of the real one.
>>
>> Here is a better shot and a more accurate
>> representation of the
>> painting.
>>
> http://thumb18.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/58/50/2365258500094285158cCopNf_th.jpg
>>
>> :)
>>
>> Chiara
>>
>>
>> On Tue, June 19, 2007 5:18 pm, MaggiRos wrote:
>> > Dopes anyone know for sure, is the main fabric of
>> this
>> > dress embroidered, or voided velvet or satin, or
>> > brocade, or what?  Not the embroidered gardes, but
>> the
>> > ground fabric.
>> >
>> > I LOVE that dress. It's just about the most truly
>> > royal gown I can think of.
>> >
>> > MaggiRos
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated 
> for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
> http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 16:03:50 +1000
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Status: RO


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 12:54 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Your dream costume


>I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an
>interesting question.
> What would be your dream costume?
> If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.
>
you mean just one? um, well probably something Tudor but what I would really
kill for is the knowledge of how a proper c.1530-40 woman's gown was really
constructed, I like the Tudor Tailor but actually knowing for sure that
this is the right way would be my ultimate dream. My forays into 19th
century have shown me just how easy the research can be when you can prove
something simply by pointing to one of thousands of extant garments or even
buying one of your own off ebay or one of the other antique clothing 
websites, (if you have the money). There's no speculation or guessing or 
making assumptions you actually _know_ the way it was done.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad@adam.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore
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Status: RO

Aargh! I'm 5'3" and I can't wear more than 3" heels without
seriously killing my feet. Mind you I do have small feet. In 3"
heels I am pretty much walking on my toes.

As to past fashion mistakes I did wear leg warmers in the
80s. I had a constant running battle with my mother over
them. I wanted to wear them around my ankles like
the people in Fame. She wanted me to pull them up
over my knees (ie to keep my legs warm). Now that
is a disturbing look....

Claire


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 13:51:42 -0700
From: "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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>> 8" platform shoes,
>>
>> -C.
>
> Oh my word! How on earth did you walk in them?
>
> High heels are such a foreign concept to me. I've been singing my whole
> life, and singers should never wear a heel over an inch high (throws off
> your balance, which throws off your breathing). But then, being 5'9", I
> never had to be concerned about being 'tall' either. ;)
>
> Arlys

I spent a great deal of my live in musical theater, singing and dancing in
3"+ heels.  You need to learn how to stand, walk and dance, but believe me,
you can sing in them, you just need to know how.

I also did ballroom and latin dance professionally, with a dance partner who
was 6'8".  (I'm 5'2").  My dance shoes had 5" heels, because otherwise we
looked ridiculous.  Even now, after a catastrophic car accident, back
injuries and arthritis, I can wear heels, just not for every day, or all
day.

Melusine


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Subject: [h-cost] new book
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Status: RO

I received my copy of this from B&N yesterday:

Scott, Margaret. Medieval Dress & Fashion. London: British Library, 
2007. 208 p. : col. ill. ; 29 cm. hardcover.  ISBN: 9780712306751 
0712306757 OCLC: 76851681  List Price: $55.00 (but available at a 
good discount)

This is a survey of European dress and fashion (800-1600) through a 
study of manuscript illumination and contemporary records. Profusely 
illustrated. A pretty book.

An interesting tidbit is the derivation of "scarlet" as "shorn cloth" 
(ie. a fulled and shorn woolen cloth) on pg 19. While no footnotes 
for statements such as these, there is a nice bibliography organized 
by chapters in the back of the book.

Other books by Margaret Scott:

Scott, Margaret. Medieval Clothing and Costumes: Displaying Wealth 
and Class in Medieval Times. The library of the Middle Ages. New 
York: Rosen Pub. Group, 2004. ISBN: 082393991X 9780823939916 OCLC: 50919960

Scott, Margaret. A Visual History of Costume: The Fourteenth & 
Fifteenth Centuries. London: B.T. Batsford, 1986.  ISBN: 0713448571 
9780713448573 OCLC: 60029331  OCLC: 15806913

Scott, Margaret. Late Gothic Europe, 1400-1500. The history of dress 
series. London: Mills & Boon, 1980. ISBN: 0263064298 9780263064292 
0391021486 9780391021488 OCLC: 7696226

Beth  

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new book
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Status: RO


On Wed, 20 Jun 2007, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> Scott, Margaret. Medieval Dress & Fashion. ...
> 
> An interesting tidbit is the derivation of "scarlet" as "shorn cloth"  
> (ie. a fulled and shorn woolen cloth) on pg 19.

John Munro summarized the thinking on this point in the article he wrote
in this year's volume of MC&T. He gives a pretty good argument that
although this theory has been around for a century or so and is still
widely accepted, the hard evidence from the period doesn't support it --
many woolens were fulled and sheared, not just scarlets, and there was
nothing different or more expensive about the shearing process used for
scarlets. He has offered his own theory, first published in his landmark
article on "The Medieval Scarlet" in 1983 and reprinted elsewhere, that
links the name to the kermes dyestuff, which is indeed the differentiating
characteristic between these cloths and others (and accounts for a huge
proportion of the price difference). Scott certainly would have had no
trouble finding other sources that repeat the older theory, but it's a
shame she didn't pursue the matter by reading the more current (and
well-known) work by Munro.

--Robin


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Status: RO

Phoenix dress ??
Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Jennifer Byrne <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 6/19/2007 3:44:27 AM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Your dream costume
>
> Without the limitation of time or money, it would be either Queen
> Elizabeth's dress in the Pelican Portrait or the Phoenix dress with all
the
> proper detail.  Just can't imagine...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Deredere Galbraith
> Sent: June 18, 2007 10:55 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Your dream costume
>
> I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an 
> interesting question.
> What would be your dream costume?
> If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <137408.76411.qm@web32213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<0ce101c7b2f4$129ea660$040ba8c0@CHESLAPTOP>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:  Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 06:31:09 -0400
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Status: RO

What a nice collection of 16th century portraits in one spot - some of which
I have seen, but many not.  Thanks for posting the site!

Jennifer

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Chiara Francesca
Sent: June 20, 2007 12:28 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]

Sorry .. http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/557253511xAShgE?start=12

Try that link and scroll down to her picture then click on it for the larger

images. :)

Chiara

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]


> Thank you. I thought it looked funny, but a google
> dredge didn't show up any other versions of the full
> gown. Thankfully I have it in print to scan and detail
> later.
>
> And the image you showed seems to be a thumbnail, not
> a full image.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
>
> --- Chiara Francesca <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Heh ... someone doctored this image pretty good
>> there with her own
>> face instead of the real one.
>>
>> Here is a better shot and a more accurate
>> representation of the
>> painting.
>>
>
http://thumb18.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/58/50/2365258500094285158cCopNf_th.jp
g
>>
>> :)
>>
>> Chiara
>>
>>
>> On Tue, June 19, 2007 5:18 pm, MaggiRos wrote:
>> > Dopes anyone know for sure, is the main fabric of
>> this
>> > dress embroidered, or voided velvet or satin, or
>> > brocade, or what?  Not the embroidered gardes, but
>> the
>> > ground fabric.
>> >
>> > I LOVE that dress. It's just about the most truly
>> > royal gown I can think of.
>> >
>> > MaggiRos
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
________
> Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated 
> for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
> http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Status: RO


Victorian Millinery
sue@victorianmillinery.com
401 Fairview Ave.
Frederick,MD 21701
301-694-8950

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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 07:58:34 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]
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Status: RO

At 05:28 20/06/2007, you wrote:
>Sorry .. http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/557253511xAShgE?start=12
>
>Try that link and scroll down to her picture then click on it for 
>the larger images. :)
>
>Chiara

Oh, my, what a great site - all those pictures in one place. Thanks Chiara.

Suzi


>>Thank you. I thought it looked funny, but a google
>>dredge didn't show up any other versions of the full
>>gown. Thankfully I have it in print to scan and detail
>>later.
>>
>>And the image you showed seems to be a thumbnail, not
>>a full image.
>>
>>Kimiko
>>
>>
>>
>>--- Chiara Francesca <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>Heh ... someone doctored this image pretty good
>>>there with her own
>>>face instead of the real one.
>>>
>>>Here is a better shot and a more accurate
>>>representation of the
>>>painting.
>>http://thumb18.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/58/50/2365258500094285158cCopNf_th.jpg
>>>
>>>:)
>>>
>>>Chiara
>>>
>>>
>>>On Tue, June 19, 2007 5:18 pm, MaggiRos wrote:
>>> > Dopes anyone know for sure, is the main fabric of
>>>this
>>> > dress embroidered, or voided velvet or satin, or
>>> > brocade, or what?  Not the embroidered gardes, but
>>>the
>>> > ground fabric.
>>> >
>>> > I LOVE that dress. It's just about the most truly
>>> > royal gown I can think of.
>>> >
>>> > MaggiRos
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>h-costume mailing list
>>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>____________________________________________________________________________________
>>Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's 
>>updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
>>http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 07:19:21 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] volunteering
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Status: RO

At 08:54 PM 6/19/2007, you wrote:
>I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a 
>volunteer at a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, 
>it's a farm house, but it looks like it could be fun. I've met some 
>of the other ladies and they're nice.
>
>Wish me luck. I don't know if they're going to interview me tomorrow 
>or have me come back later, but I'm nervous I'll say something 
>stupid and they won't want me. I got turned away from another 
>volunteer job at a site once because I didn't have any experience 
>'interpreting'. I'm hoping this one goes better. They seem a lot more low-key.
>
>Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the 'job'?
>
>Dawn

Out here in Sacramento, I am a long-time docent at Sutter's Fort.  We 
have training classes for new docents, so you are not expected to 
know a great deal about the Fort when you begin.  The interview to be 
accepted as a docent trainee is to make certain that you know what 
function of a docent is (you need to like interacting with visitors) 
and to make certain you do not have unrealistic ideas of what you can 
do.  Most places are in need of volunteers, so I am surprised that 
any place turns down people without giving them a chance to learn how 
to interpret to the public.  Interpretation is something than one 
learns, primarily by doing (being a chatterbox is not a handicap ;-) ).


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Status: RO

And that was why it was an interesting tidbit...  since no mention 
was made of other theories. This was surprising with a person of 
these credentials.  It is a survey work, but it makes one wonder what 
other things she glosses over. I am not very far into it as yet...

Beth

>Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 07:57:57 -0500 (CDT)
>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>
>On Wed, 20 Jun 2007, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
>
> > Scott, Margaret. Medieval Dress & Fashion. ...
> >
> > An interesting tidbit is the derivation of "scarlet" as "shorn cloth"
> > (ie. a fulled and shorn woolen cloth) on pg 19.
>
>John Munro summarized the thinking on this point in the article he wrote
>in this year's volume of MC&T. He gives a pretty good argument that
>although this theory has been around for a century or so and is still
>widely accepted, the hard evidence from the period doesn't support it --
>many woolens were fulled and sheared, not just scarlets, and there was
>nothing different or more expensive about the shearing process used for
>scarlets. He has offered his own theory, first published in his landmark
>article on "The Medieval Scarlet" in 1983 and reprinted elsewhere, that
>links the name to the kermes dyestuff, which is indeed the differentiating
>characteristic between these cloths and others (and accounts for a huge
>proportion of the price difference). Scott certainly would have had no
>trouble finding other sources that repeat the older theory, but it's a
>shame she didn't pursue the matter by reading the more current (and
>well-known) work by Munro.
>
>--Robin

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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 12:54:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Here's what I think Chiara was trying to share,
although that is the face in the painting, not a
Photoshop. 

http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/1032412662015260226xztqVY?vhost=entertainment
or
http://tinyurl.com/2oq7fw

MaggiRos

--- Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Thank you. I thought it looked funny, but a google
> dredge didn't show up any other versions of the full
> gown. Thankfully I have it in print to scan and
> detail
> later.
> 
> And the image you showed seems to be a thumbnail,
> not
> a full image.
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
> 
> --- Chiara Francesca <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
> > Heh ... someone doctored this image pretty good
> > there with her own
> > face instead of the real one.
> > 
> > Here is a better shot and a more accurate
> > representation of the
> > painting.
> >
>
http://thumb18.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/58/50/2365258500094285158cCopNf_th.jpg
> > 
> > :)
> > 
> > Chiara
> > 
> > 
> > On Tue, June 19, 2007 5:18 pm, MaggiRos wrote:
> > > Dopes anyone know for sure, is the main fabric
> of
> > this
> > > dress embroidered, or voided velvet or satin, or
> > > brocade, or what?  Not the embroidered gardes,
> but
> > the
> > > ground fabric.
> > >
> > > I LOVE that dress. It's just about the most
> truly
> > > royal gown I can think of.
> > >
> > > MaggiRos
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > 
> 
> 
> 
>        
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here
> and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo!
> Games.
>
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
>  
> _______________________________________________
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> 


Reading:
[lunchtime at work]  The Pirate Wars, Peter Earle
[bedside]  The Dresden Files, (all of them), Jim Butcher
[about to finish]  Strong Poison, Dorothy L. Sayers
[CD in the car]  The silver Chair, C.S. Lewis
Just finished: The Invention of Hugo Cabret, Brian Selznick


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     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 12:50:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Pity it's such a teensy thumbnail. I can hardly see
it, even on my big monitor here at work.

MaggiRos

--- Chiara Francesca <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Heh ... someone doctored this image pretty good
> there with her own
> face instead of the real one.
> 
> Here is a better shot and a more accurate
> representation of the
> painting.
>
http://thumb18.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/58/50/2365258500094285158cCopNf_th.jpg
> 
> :)

Reading:
[lunchtime at work]  The Pirate Wars, Peter Earle
[bedside]  The Dresden Files, (all of them), Jim Butcher
[about to finish]  Strong Poison, Dorothy L. Sayers
[CD in the car]  The silver Chair, C.S. Lewis
Just finished: The Invention of Hugo Cabret, Brian Selznick


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 13:05:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Ah1 I guess there's more than one posted on Webshots.
:)

MaggiRos
--- Chiara Francesca <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Sorry ..
>
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/557253511xAShgE?start=12
> 
> Try that link and scroll down to her picture then
> click on it for the larger 
> images. :)
> 
> Chiara
> 

Reading:
[lunchtime at work]  The Pirate Wars, Peter Earle
[bedside]  The Dresden Files, (all of them), Jim Butcher
[about to finish]  Strong Poison, Dorothy L. Sayers
[CD in the car]  The silver Chair, C.S. Lewis
Just finished: The Invention of Hugo Cabret, Brian Selznick


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

>I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a volunteer at
>a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, it's a farm house,
>but it looks like it could be fun. I've met some of the other ladies and
>they're nice.
<snip>
>Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the 'job'?

Hey, Dawn
I just started showing up. Every month. (That's when the site did
living history: just once a month.) Pretty soon I was on the events
planning committee, the next year head of another committee, another
year later I was on the board, then president.
Unless it's Sturbridge or Billburg (er, Williamsburg) most sites dont
say "no, thank-you".

That said, we had our own problems, like the park ranger we had for a
few years who was an ex-LA cop.  She wanted to issue citations (like
traffic citations, not like merit badges) to volunteers who, in the
ranger's opinion, didnt measure up, usually in some trivial way. I
remember the fashion violation she tried to issue...
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

Wow, that really does look like goldwork, in the closeup of the skirt 
recently posted.  Having done a wee bit of that myself, the mind boggles at 
the amount of time it would take to do that much of it!  Though it would 
take even longer to embroider it in silks.

Even though I'm not particularly interested in this time period/style, I did 
have to fight off a strong temptation to make this dress a year or two ago, 
because there was a large hunk of fabric for sale on eBay that was almost 
exactly like what's seen here--except it was pale apple green/salmon instead 
of gold/salmon.  That was the only thing that stopped me from at least 
buying it and hoarding it until my taste in time periods changed yet again.

Still kind of wish I had... the thing was up for sale for months and months.

-E House

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Status: RO

What does interpreting mean?

  On Jun 20, 2007, at 8:19 AM, Joan Jurancich wrote:

> At 08:54 PM 6/19/2007, you wrote:
>> I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a volunteer 
>> at a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, it's a farm 
>> house, but it looks like it could be fun. I've met some of the other 
>> ladies and they're nice.
>>
>> Wish me luck. I don't know if they're going to interview me tomorrow 
>> or have me come back later, but I'm nervous I'll say something stupid 
>> and they won't want me. I got turned away from another volunteer job 
>> at a site once because I didn't have any experience 'interpreting'. 
>> I'm hoping this one goes better. They seem a lot more low-key.
>>
>> Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the 
>> 'job'?
>>
>> Dawn
>
> Out here in Sacramento, I am a long-time docent at Sutter's Fort.  We 
> have training classes for new docents, so you are not expected to know 
> a great deal about the Fort when you begin.  The interview to be 
> accepted as a docent trainee is to make certain that you know what 
> function of a docent is (you need to like interacting with visitors) 
> and to make certain you do not have unrealistic ideas of what you can 
> do.  Most places are in need of volunteers, so I am surprised that any 
> place turns down people without giving them a chance to learn how to 
> interpret to the public.  Interpretation is something than one learns, 
> primarily by doing (being a chatterbox is not a handicap ;-) ).
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 13:05:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Ah1 I guess there's more than one posted on Webshots.
:)

MaggiRos
--- Chiara Francesca <chiara.francesca@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Sorry ..
>
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/557253511xAShgE?start=12
> 
> Try that link and scroll down to her picture then
> click on it for the larger 
> images. :)
> 
> Chiara
> 

Reading:
[lunchtime at work]  The Pirate Wars, Peter Earle
[bedside]  The Dresden Files, (all of them), Jim Butcher
[about to finish]  Strong Poison, Dorothy L. Sayers
[CD in the car]  The silver Chair, C.S. Lewis
Just finished: The Invention of Hugo Cabret, Brian Selznick


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Your dream costume
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Status: RO

Ah - yes - wildly extravagant dress you can see here:

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/gallery/images/qe-phoenix.jpg

Fit for a Queen as they say.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Silvara
Sent: June 20, 2007 4:42 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Your dream costume

Phoenix dress ??
Silvara

> [Original Message]
> From: Jennifer Byrne <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 6/19/2007 3:44:27 AM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Your dream costume
>
> Without the limitation of time or money, it would be either Queen
> Elizabeth's dress in the Pelican Portrait or the Phoenix dress with all
the
> proper detail.  Just can't imagine...
>



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Status: RO

okay, thank you

Silvara


> [Original Message]
> From: Jennifer Byrne <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: 6/20/2007 6:43:03 PM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Your dream costume
>
> Ah - yes - wildly extravagant dress you can see here:
>
> http://www.elizabethancostume.net/gallery/images/qe-phoenix.jpg
>
> Fit for a Queen as they say.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Silvara
> Sent: June 20, 2007 4:42 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Your dream costume
>
> Phoenix dress ??
> Silvara
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Jennifer Byrne <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
> > To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Date: 6/19/2007 3:44:27 AM
> > Subject: RE: [h-cost] Your dream costume
> >
> > Without the limitation of time or money, it would be either Queen
> > Elizabeth's dress in the Pelican Portrait or the Phoenix dress with all
> the
> > proper detail.  Just can't imagine...
> >
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] volunteering
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Status: RO

"Interpreting" means, roughly, making the physical aspects of the 
historic site meaningful to visitors.  For example, at Sutter's Fort 
we have a reproduction of a farm wagon that was used in the 1840s to 
move to California from Missouri.  I like to tell people that it is 
the "1840's moving van".  That leads into discussions about what was 
carried, how many yoke of oxen were needed, how much it cost to 
provision yourself for the journey, how long it took, etc.  That 
discussion is an "interpretation" of the wagon.  You can do a similar 
type of thing with a building, with clothing, with cooking equipment, 
etc.  And it can be done in "third person", when you say that "they" 
did this; or in "first person", when you speak as the person doing a 
task, or owning a piece of equipment, e.g.  It takes more practice to 
do it in first person (and a lot of studying of all aspects of the 
period you are interpreting), but that is something I enjoy doing.

Joan Jurancich

At 08:36 AM 6/20/2007, you wrote:
>What does interpreting mean?
>
>  On Jun 20, 2007, at 8:19 AM, Joan Jurancich wrote:
>
>>At 08:54 PM 6/19/2007, you wrote:
>>>I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a 
>>>volunteer at a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, 
>>>it's a farm house, but it looks like it could be fun. I've met 
>>>some of the other ladies and they're nice.
>>>
>>>Wish me luck. I don't know if they're going to interview me 
>>>tomorrow or have me come back later, but I'm nervous I'll say 
>>>something stupid and they won't want me. I got turned away from 
>>>another volunteer job at a site once because I didn't have any 
>>>experience 'interpreting'. I'm hoping this one goes better. They 
>>>seem a lot more low-key.
>>>
>>>Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the 'job'?
>>>
>>>Dawn
>>
>>Out here in Sacramento, I am a long-time docent at Sutter's 
>>Fort.  We have training classes for new docents, so you are not 
>>expected to know a great deal about the Fort when you begin.  The 
>>interview to be accepted as a docent trainee is to make certain 
>>that you know what function of a docent is (you need to like 
>>interacting with visitors) and to make certain you do not have 
>>unrealistic ideas of what you can do.  Most places are in need of 
>>volunteers, so I am surprised that any place turns down people 
>>without giving them a chance to learn how to interpret to the 
>>public.  Interpretation is something than one learns, primarily by 
>>doing (being a chatterbox is not a handicap ;-) ).
>>
>>
>>Joan Jurancich
>>joanmj@surewest.net
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>
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From: Sheridan Alder <sadisticschoolmistress@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How clothing style can effect law (RE to OT "Baggy")
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I'm reminded of coming across a 1940's newspaper clipping that shorts were being banned in some small Ontario town (which shall remain nameless in its shame) in the archives of Fort Malden, Parks Canada, when I  was the resource centre specialist there.

Laugh, I thought I'd die. That edict didn't have much effect, did it?

I'm tired of the baggy pants look too, but recently I met an contemporary (50's) who was wearing alarmingly tight, pencil-leg jeans and had dyed his hair in a ponytail. Not a good look either.

Sheridan Alder



----- Original Message ----
From: "AlbertCat@aol.com" <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:00:32 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How clothing style can effect law (RE to OT "Baggy")


In a message dated 6/19/2007 4:05:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sonja@louisiana.edu writes:


Delcambre is a small town and several town citizens complained  about this 
"style" of dress

Now you know the rest of the story.



So if "several citizens" [I wonder how many] complained, say about  churches 
in town because they were atheists, I'm sure the town council would  create a 
law banning churches, right?

The rest of the story sounds just like the 1st part of the  story....stupid! 
What did you think I thought had happened? That it was just a  whim? It's 
still pitiful.









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From: Sheridan Alder <sadisticschoolmistress@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] volunteering
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Status: RO

Treat it like a real interview. Dress nicely, speak intelligently but politely. If you don't have time to do some background reading, express an interest in learning and being guided. If you tend to be shy, let them know you are interested in improving your communication skills speaking to the public (you'll be surprised - excellent and relevant experience for other jobs, not to mention job interviews!)

 I'm shocked by the stories I'm heard of the number of people that are interviewed for jobs at historic sites and don't even bother to skim the information pamphlets available in the entrance! Read that and memorize what you can, at least, even while you are waiting for your interview. That might show more horse sense than all the others being interviewed.

The trendy thing nowadays is asking applicants to provide an example of a time that you had to deal with a difficult situation, customer, etc. Try to think of something, even if it seems pitiful at the time - like, "when my sister tries to pick a fight with me, I just walk away and refuse to fight". A safe response might be, "I asked my supervisor for advice to deal with the situation".

Try to demonstrate good judgement and common sense and a willingness to follow the guidance of the staff. Don't contradict the permanent staff in front of visitors. Don't use your volunteer position as an opening to grind your own axe - mouth off to the public about your personally held political beliefs, etc. or old cliches about the past. At the same time, a volunteer shouldn't have to tolerate harassment from the public - like sexual harassment from male visitors, for example, or rascist rants. If it's a mediocre site, be prepared to accept and repeat their mouldy-oldy party line about the olden times. 

Ask a few questions yourself - how many hours they want to to volunteer, what kind of role do volunteers play - cleaning, interpreting, cash, shop, general dogsbody? Will you be in period costume or in their uniform? How many volunteers and how many staff they have? Do they have large events or school programs? Do they have a "Friends of " group? Who are they funded by - state or local government?

Our WWI group volunteer yearly at John McCrae House, the author of "In Flanders Fields". At first the site wasn't very interested - shy of reenactors.  Now we volunteer every year. I think it helped that no one in our group was an aggressive or wacko reenactor type - we just wanted to help out the site, show off our cool original artefacts and interpret a period / war that was somewhat neglected. We are all pretty moderate, helpful types and in return the staff and regular volunteers provide some great chili! I have a lot of respect for teachers after a day of volunteering - I'm exhausted after talking to visitors all day.

I'd do some background reading first. That's a lie - I'm a librarian so I'd do lots of reading! The local public library can probably supply information on the background of that particular site and the family that lived there, general background reading of historical events of that time period, etc. If you Google "Harriet Beecher Stowe", for example, I believe there is a full text version of the American Woman's Home (or whatever it was called) online. Know something about domestic arrangements, standards of living and farming. Modestly let them know you prepared for the interview?

If you aren't accepted this year, don't take it personally. They probably don't "hate" you. Maybe they can only accept a few people and one person was just an teensy, weensy bit better in the interview. People respect you when you keep trying. Apply again next year or somewhere else and prepare a little more next time.

I'm obviously middle-aged - I'm so full of advice!

Sheridan Alder




----- Original Message ----
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 11:54:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] volunteering


I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a volunteer at 
a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, it's a farm house, 
but it looks like it could be fun. I've met some of the other ladies and 
they're nice.

Wish me luck. I don't know if they're going to interview me tomorrow or 
have me come back later, but I'm nervous I'll say something stupid and 
they won't want me. I got turned away from another volunteer job at a 
site once because I didn't have any experience 'interpreting'. I'm 
hoping this one goes better. They seem a lot more low-key.

Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the 'job'?



Dawn

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Status: RO


On Jun 20, 2007, at 10:21 PM, Sheridan Alder wrote:

> The trendy thing nowadays is asking applicants to provide an example 
> of a time that you had to deal with a difficult situation, customer, 
> etc. Try to think of something, even if it seems pitiful at the time - 
> like, "when my sister tries to pick a fight with me, I just walk away 
> and refuse to fight". A safe response might be, "I asked my supervisor 
> for advice to deal with the situation".
>
>
I so hate it when I am asked that question in interviews.  Doesn't 
everyone unconsciously forget those difficult situations because they 
were so unpleasant?  I have wracked my brain for a good answer and have 
yet to remember one.

Sylrog



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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 22:40:11 -0700
From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore
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Status: RO

stilskin@netspace.net.au wrote:
>  Karolee Smiley wrote...
> > Think about it... And what did you wear when you were young that
> > horrified your parents? And what did your parents wear that
> > horrified your grandparents? And so on...
>
>

I lost Karolee's post,
but ....

Khaki parachute pants (stitched pleats at the waist, buttoned cuffs, 
baggy in between) with red top-stitching, a white cap-sleeved cropped 
top and (oh my god - should I admit this?) red leather 4" pumps, with my 
hair in a ponytail on the back of my head. Screaming bright lipstick and 
about a pound of eyeliner.
Do I remember when during the 80s? Not really!

liz young


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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] volunteering
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 23:22:53 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

On Jun 20, 2007, at 9:28 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

>
> On Jun 20, 2007, at 10:21 PM, Sheridan Alder wrote:
>
>> The trendy thing nowadays is asking applicants to provide an  
>> example of a time that you had to deal with a difficult situation,  
>> customer, etc. Try to think of something, even if it seems pitiful  
>> at the time - like, "when my sister tries to pick a fight with me,  
>> I just walk away and refuse to fight". A safe response might be,  
>> "I asked my supervisor for advice to deal with the situation".
>>
>>
> I so hate it when I am asked that question in interviews.  Doesn't  
> everyone unconsciously forget those difficult situations because  
> they were so unpleasant?  I have wracked my brain for a good answer  
> and have yet to remember one.

It may be "trendy", but it's part of a particular, more extensive,  
interviewing system called "Behavioral-Based Interviewing" -- I got  
trained in it last year so I understand it a bit more from the other  
side.  The idea is that anyone can give hypothetical answers to  
hypothetical questions ("How would you handle ...?") and it doesn't  
mean much in terms of what they'll actually do.  But if you ask them  
for a concrete example of how they _have_ handled such-and-such a  
situation, then you've got a better chance of having something to  
evaluate.  And the thing is, it's much more important that the  
answers be concrete and illustrative than that they be directly  
related to the job you're applying for.  (Job-related is best, of  
course, and it probably helps to preface a non-job-related answer  
with something that identifies it as such.)  Concrete means setting  
up a specific scenario or problem and illustrative means explaining  
what _you_ did in response and what the eventual outcome was.  "Safe"  
responses aren't what the interviewers are looking for -- if the  
interviewer asks how you've handled a difficult situation, they want  
to hire someone who doesn't run from difficult situations and who  
learns from past situations to improve future responses.

When I interviewed for my current job, I was coming off of a decade  
of grad school and applying for a job I had no specific formal  
training for.  My interview responses involved a lot of drawing from  
school experiences (confrontations, managing others, planning and  
executing projects), hobbies (more project planning, interpersonal  
skills) and so forth (my examples of "a time I worked on a really  
effective team" included family camping trips).

If you know you're going to be dealing with this style of interview  
(or think you might be), it can help to create a mental list of  
experiences to use as examples for a wide variety of scenarios.  When  
I've participated as an interviewer using this system, the most  
common pitfalls were answers that gave a scenario but no resolution,  
or that wandered off from the topic and never really got to the  
point.  Googling on "behavioral based interview" can track down much  
more helpful suggestions than my brief sketch here.

Heather
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Status: RO

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> On Jun 20, 2007, at 10:21 PM, Sheridan Alder wrote:
>> The trendy thing nowadays is asking applicants to provide an example 
>> of a time that you had to deal with a difficult situation, customer, 
>> etc. Try to think of something, even if it seems pitiful at the time 
>> - like, "when my sister tries to pick a fight with me, I just walk 
>> away and refuse to fight". A safe response might be, "I asked my 
>> supervisor for advice to deal with the situation".
>>
> I so hate it when I am asked that question in interviews.  Doesn't 
> everyone unconsciously forget those difficult situations because they 
> were so unpleasant?  I have wracked my brain for a good answer and 
> have yet to remember one.


I interview at work. I find it very valuable to see not how the 
interviewee responded to the problem in the example they give, but how 
they respond to the question in general.

andy

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] volunteering
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
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Status: RO

Hi Dawn,

If you want some information on 'interpreting', you can go to the
National Association for Interpretation (www.interpnet.com) for
publications, resources, conferences & training.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 11:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] volunteering

I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a volunteer at

a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, it's a farm house,

but it looks like it could be fun. I've met some of the other ladies and

they're nice.

Wish me luck. I don't know if they're going to interview me tomorrow or=20
have me come back later, but I'm nervous I'll say something stupid and=20
they won't want me. I got turned away from another volunteer job at a=20
site once because I didn't have any experience 'interpreting'. I'm=20
hoping this one goes better. They seem a lot more low-key.

Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the 'job'?



Dawn

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From: Sarah Nucci <sarah_nucci@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] volunteering
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Status: RO

I'm actually on staff to recruit, supervise, and train volunteers for a large museum.  For the most part, if you don't have a criminal record and are fairly normal (read, not looking at womens parts) then we accept you.  Frankly, if a museum needs volunteers they will find you a placement somewhere you will like.
   
  I second all the other advice - read up a bit on the site, treat it like a real interview, ask those questions - time commitments, dress code, training.  Be honest - the worst thing it to say what they want to hear (or you think they want to hear) and then no be happy - then you won't want to stay and no one benefits.  Overall treat it like a job - because the museum will depend on you like it's a real job - and have fun!  
   
  Good luck,
   
  Sarah

       
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Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2007 11:13:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Elizabeth of Valois [was Your dream costume]]
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

That's why stuff like that is only worn by a queen
with gold coming in from the Indies! It's a lot of
gold wire as well as a lot of work. It must have
weighed a ton, even in silk. Imagine in gold work!
Wow.

And of course, though someone else *might* have been
able to afford it, who would dare to wear it,
sumptuarily speaking. It does rather look like gold
embroidery, doesn't. Wow again.

Oh and that green/salmon? I'd have bought it. And it
would probably still be in the trunk... but I could
think about it. :-)

MaggiRos



--- E House <swissgirl@swissinfo.org> wrote:

> Wow, that really does look like goldwork, in the
> closeup of the skirt 
> recently posted.  Having done a wee bit of that
> myself, the mind boggles at 
> the amount of time it would take to do that much of
> it!  Though it would 
> take even longer to embroider it in silks.
> 
> Even though I'm not particularly interested in this
> time period/style, I did 
> have to fight off a strong temptation to make this
> dress a year or two ago, 
> because there was a large hunk of fabric for sale on
> eBay that was almost 
> exactly like what's seen here--except it was pale
> apple green/salmon instead 
> of gold/salmon.  That was the only thing that
> stopped me from at least 
> buying it and hoarding it until my taste in time
> periods changed yet again.
> 
> Still kind of wish I had... the thing was up for
> sale for months and months.
> 

Reading:
[lunchtime at work]  The Pirate Wars, Peter Earle
[bedside]  The Dresden Files, (all of them), Jim Butcher
[about to finish]  Strong Poison, Dorothy L. Sayers
[CD in the car]  The silver Chair, C.S. Lewis
Just finished: The Invention of Hugo Cabret, Brian Selznick


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] volunteering
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Status: RO


--- Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
wrote:


> 
> If you know you're going to be dealing with this
> style of interview  
> (or think you might be), it can help to create a
> mental list of  
> experiences to use as examples for a wide variety of
> scenarios.  

In fact, it's okay to write things down, and take your
notes with you into the interview. And take notes
while interviewing. When you do you summing up (why
I'm who you're looking for) you can hit key points and
why you match them.

That's for any interview, of course, not just
volunteering.

MaggiRos

Reading:
[lunchtime at work]  The Pirate Wars, Peter Earle
[bedside]  The Dresden Files, (all of them), Jim Butcher
[about to finish]  Strong Poison, Dorothy L. Sayers
[CD in the car]  The silver Chair, C.S. Lewis
Just finished: The Invention of Hugo Cabret, Brian Selznick


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: volunteering
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2007 13:23:26 +0000
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Status: RO

Fashion citation to volunteers?  That is downright funny!  I just about spewed my drink on the screen laughing...

The idea for merit awards is a much better idea..
Gia

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> 

> >I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a volunteer at 
> >a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, it's a farm house, 
> >but it looks like it could be fun. I've met some of the other ladies and 
> >they're nice. 
> 
> >Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the 'job'? 
> 
> Hey, Dawn 
> I just started showing up. Every month. (That's when the site did 
> living history: just once a month.) Pretty soon I was on the events 
> planning committee, the next year head of another committee, another 
> year later I was on the board, then president. 
> Unless it's Sturbridge or Billburg (er, Williamsburg) most sites dont 
> say "no, thank-you". 
> 
> That said, we had our own problems, like the park ranger we had for a 
> few years who was an ex-LA cop. She wanted to issue citations (like 
> traffic citations, not like merit badges) to volunteers who, in the 
> ranger's opinion, didnt measure up, usually in some trivial way. I 
> remember the fashion violation she tried to issue... 
> --cin 
> Cynthia Barnes 
> CinBarnes@gmail.com 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] volunteering
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

In this context, it's a method of connecting people (visitors to a site)
with the resource (the site) - the interpreter being the bridge.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 11:37 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] volunteering

What does interpreting mean?

  On Jun 20, 2007, at 8:19 AM, Joan Jurancich wrote:

> At 08:54 PM 6/19/2007, you wrote:
>> I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a volunteer

>> at a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, it's a farm=20
>> house, but it looks like it could be fun. I've met some of the other=20
>> ladies and they're nice.
>>
>> Wish me luck. I don't know if they're going to interview me tomorrow=20
>> or have me come back later, but I'm nervous I'll say something stupid

>> and they won't want me. I got turned away from another volunteer job=20
>> at a site once because I didn't have any experience 'interpreting'.=20
>> I'm hoping this one goes better. They seem a lot more low-key.
>>
>> Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the=20
>> 'job'?
>>
>> Dawn
>
> Out here in Sacramento, I am a long-time docent at Sutter's Fort.  We=20
> have training classes for new docents, so you are not expected to know

> a great deal about the Fort when you begin.  The interview to be=20
> accepted as a docent trainee is to make certain that you know what=20
> function of a docent is (you need to like interacting with visitors)=20
> and to make certain you do not have unrealistic ideas of what you can=20
> do.  Most places are in need of volunteers, so I am surprised that any

> place turns down people without giving them a chance to learn how to=20
> interpret to the public.  Interpretation is something than one learns,

> primarily by doing (being a chatterbox is not a handicap ;-) ).
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Fashion citation
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Status: RO

 Oh, how I have longed to issue citations or fines to docents wearing
zippers on Victorian clothing, or polyester doubleknits. . .but I restrain
myself.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 8:23 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: volunteering

Fashion citation to volunteers?  That is downright funny!  I just about
spewed my drink on the screen laughing...

The idea for merit awards is a much better idea..
Gia

-------------- Original message --------------
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> 

> >I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a volunteer 
> >at a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, it's a farm 
> >house, but it looks like it could be fun. I've met some of the other 
> >ladies and they're nice.
> 
> >Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the 'job'? 
> 
> Hey, Dawn
> I just started showing up. Every month. (That's when the site did 
> living history: just once a month.) Pretty soon I was on the events 
> planning committee, the next year head of another committee, another 
> year later I was on the board, then president.
> Unless it's Sturbridge or Billburg (er, Williamsburg) most sites dont 
> say "no, thank-you".
> 
> That said, we had our own problems, like the park ranger we had for a 
> few years who was an ex-LA cop. She wanted to issue citations (like 
> traffic citations, not like merit badges) to volunteers who, in the 
> ranger's opinion, didnt measure up, usually in some trivial way. I 
> remember the fashion violation she tried to issue...
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: "Chiara Francesca" <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

One more place:
http://www.io.com/~ches/h-costume/

Chiara


On Fri, June 22, 2007 4:16 pm, 00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:
>
> There are two sets of archives that I'm aware of:
> http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/
> for more recent posts, and
> http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/
> for older posts, though it doesn't seem to be working right now at
> this moment.
>
> Emma
>
>> New member tot he list and I want to know if it is possible to see
>> archives fo the previous posts and how I do that.  Thank you.
>>
>> Beverly
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
>
> http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
> http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2007 16:13:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hellooooo?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Oh, I've been on the computer as I can, but two small
kids and a whole lot of various types of aggravation
have made me less than amicable lately.

Kimiko


--- Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:

> What's going on in your part of the world to keep
> you off the computer?
> 
> LynnD



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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
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Status: RO

It's been 24 hours since I last heard from h-costume. Are you out there?

What's going on in your part of the world to keep you off the computer?

LynnD
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Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2007 14:07:43 -0700
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Status: RO

New member tot he list and I want to know if it is possible to see 
archives fo the previous posts and how I do that.  Thank you.

Beverly

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Status: RO

Lynn Downward wrote:
> It's been 24 hours since I last heard from h-costume. Are you out there?
> 
> What's going on in your part of the world to keep you off the computer?

I'm trying to get a renaissance gown finished for this weekend. In the 
middle of hand sewing a ton of trim on the multi-part sleeves. I think 
it's going to be a late night.

Last night I was at Joann's cleaning up on their big summer clearance 
sale. I scored an almost 3 yd length of sea green silk at 75% off. 
That's the third "remnant" in the same colour I've found this year, 
meaning I now have enough to do something serious like a gown, or line a 
coat.

Tonight I'm going to stock up on interfacing at half price, and a few 
other things.


Dawn

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Status: RO


There are two sets of archives that I'm aware of:
http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/
for more recent posts, and
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/
for older posts, though it doesn't seem to be working right now at this moment.

Emma

> New member tot he list and I want to know if it is possible to see 
> archives fo the previous posts and how I do that.  Thank you.
> 
> Beverly
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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Subject: [h-cost] re: volunteering
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Status: RO

>> That said, we had our own problems, like the park ranger we had for a
>> few years who was an ex-LA cop. She wanted to issue citations (like
>> traffic citations, not like merit badges) to volunteers who, in the
>> ranger's opinion, didnt measure up, usually in some trivial way. I
>> remember the fashion violation she tried to issue...

>Fashion citation to volunteers?  That is downright funny!  I just
about spewed my >drink on the screen laughing...

>The idea for merit awards is a much better idea..
>Gia

Looking back, I guess it is laughable. At the time I was the Volunteer
Association President caught between the senior park ranger (who could
tell us to get out) and the 100-ish volunteers. Those volunteers ought
to have been told "thank-you, your costume/interpretation/display has
improved so much" and not "that hat is a misdemeanor offense".
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jun 22 19:55:24 2007
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From: "Sharon Collier" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hellooooo?
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2007 14:07:58 -0700
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Status: RO

Hey, Lynn,
 We're doing bad movie night tonight. "Revenge of the Cheerleaders"
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 1:49 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hellooooo?


Lynn Downward wrote:
> It's been 24 hours since I last heard from h-costume. Are you out there?
> 
> What's going on in your part of the world to keep you off the computer?

I'm trying to get a renaissance gown finished for this weekend. In the 
middle of hand sewing a ton of trim on the multi-part sleeves. I think 
it's going to be a late night.

Last night I was at Joann's cleaning up on their big summer clearance 
sale. I scored an almost 3 yd length of sea green silk at 75% off. 
That's the third "remnant" in the same colour I've found this year, 
meaning I now have enough to do something serious like a gown, or line a 
coat.

Tonight I'm going to stock up on interfacing at half price, and a few 
other things.


Dawn

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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hellooooo?
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2007 18:16:15 -0400
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Status: RO

A) Work - the kind that pays the bills and 

B) the arrival of 10 yards of iridescent red silk velvet - Whoo Hoo!  Now
what do I do?!

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lynn Downward
Sent: June 22, 2007 4:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Hellooooo?

It's been 24 hours since I last heard from h-costume. Are you out there?

What's going on in your part of the world to keep you off the computer?

LynnD
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Big Four doll pattern?
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Status: RO


I am making a "sorta" Victorian wedding dress for my 
daughter-in-law-elect, and would love to make a soft, small doll in a 
copy of the dress. Can anyone recommend a "Big  Four" type pattern 
(easy and quick are the important words) that I can buy here in the 
U.K. I do not have the time or inclination to try and buy from the 
U.S., which is why I need a pattern available in the U.K. I do not 
need a pattern for the dress, as I am making it up as I go along - 
the real one I mean!

Or even an online pattern would be good. It is .........years since I 
made a Raggedy Anne doll, and that pattern is nowhere near suitable.

TIA

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Big Four doll pattern?
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Status: RO


 Suzi,

Vogue has a cute 18" soft doll pattern 8336 named Sarah.? I have not made this, so have no clue how it works up, but it looks interesting enough to try if I had the time.? Scoff.? Scoff.? 

Good luck with all.

~Kimberley


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sat, 23 Jun 2007 7:25 am
Subject: [h-cost] Big Four doll pattern?










I am making a "sorta" Victorian wedding dress for my 
daughter-in-law-elect, and would love to make a soft, small doll in a 
copy of the dress. Can anyone recommend a "Big  Four" type pattern 
(easy and quick are the important words) that I can buy here in the 
U.K. I do not have the time or inclination to try and buy from the 
U.S., which is why I need a pattern available in the U.K. I do not 
need a pattern for the dress, as I am making it up as I go along - 
the real one I mean!?
?

Or even an online pattern would be good. It is .........years since I 
made a Raggedy Anne doll, and that pattern is nowhere near suitable.?
?

TIA?
?

Suzi?
?

_______________________________________________?

h-costume mailing list?

h-costume@mail.indra.com?

http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume?



 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Big Four doll pattern?
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At 13:06 23/06/2007, you wrote:

>  Suzi,
>
>Vogue has a cute 18" soft doll pattern 8336 named Sarah.? I have not 
>made this, so have no clue how it works up, but it looks interesting 
>enough to try if I had the time.? Scoff.? Scoff.?
>
>Good luck with all.
>
>~Kimberley

Thanks - she's cute. I never thought to look on-line - duh!! McCalls 
do a "Sophie" which is quite pretty too. I'd still like to know if 
anyone has used either of the patterns though.

Suzi

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Status: RO


On Fri, 22 Jun 2007, Beverly Azizi wrote:

> New member tot he list and I want to know if it is possible to see
> archives fo the previous posts and how I do that.  Thank you.

Older archives are saved at Eric Praetzel's site, in chunks
by month, at http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/ .
There's a rudimentary and quirky search function that takes a little
getting used to. The main search function looks only at author and subject
lines; use the link to the "old" search function if you need more
detail. It often turns up far too many results, so try searching one
year's worth at a time if you're looking for a specific topic.

To find more recent individual posts, try
http://news.gmane.org/gmane.culture.studies.history.costume 
(since late June) or
http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/index.html#03702
(since about the same time). I haven't played around much with those sites
so don't know how good the search functions are.

--Robin



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Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Hellooooo?
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Status: RO

You gently wrap the velvet in a clean bed sheet, place it in a acid free box, ...

And send it to meeee!!!!! .......

hehehehehehe

Katheryne
who is trying to recover from the first week of (paid) work in over 2 years of unemployment.

----- Original Message -----
From: Jennifer Byrne 
>  
> B) the arrival of 10 yards of iridescent red silk velvet - Whoo 
> Hoo! Now what do I do?!
> 
> Jenn
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] volunteering
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Status: RO

THANK YOU!!!

THANK YOU!!!

I just got a job after coming off of 2 years of unemployment and have ALWAYS hated that question.

Now I can be better prepared for it if/when it comes up in another interview.

Katheryne
who hopes her next interview will be when she retires from this job that I JUST got!!

----- Original Message -----
> 
> It may be "trendy", but it's part of a particular, more 
> extensive, interviewing system called "Behavioral-Based Interviewing" -- I 
> got trained in it last year so I understand it a bit more from the 
> other side.
 
<snip>
 
> If you know you're going to be dealing with this style of 
> interview (or think you might be), it can help to create a mental list of 
> experiences to use as examples for a wide variety of scenarios. 
> When I've participated as an interviewer using this system, the most 
> common pitfalls were answers that gave a scenario but no 
> resolution, or that wandered off from the topic and never really got to the 
> point. Googling on "behavioral based interview" can track down 
> much more helpful suggestions than my brief sketch here.
> 
> Heather
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 21:43:30 +1000
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Subject: [h-cost] free treadle machine avaliable in the UK
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Status: RO

somebody on another list passed this message on from a sewing machine 
collector's email list http://www.ismacs.net/digest.html (sorry, I don't 
know where the original message might be archived) and knowing there are 
several UK based costumers on this list so I'm passing it on in case anyone 
is interested.

Subject: Digest of June 12  2007 -
From: D HOLDSWORTH <holdsworth355@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2007 19:03:26 +0100 (BST)
X-Message-Number: 3

Further to my post of 12th June - concerning my offer of my late mother's 
Jones Treadle sewing machine marked "Medium CS" - dated 1921. I regret that 
there has been no response at all from the U.K -( from where it will need to 
be collected free of charge.)

This causes me some concern as I shall need to dispose of it soon - and I do 
not want to see such a well kept, much cherished, machine scrapped!

I enclose details again - in case they may have been missed by a UK 
interested party on the previous occasion.

The machine was my mother's wedding present in 1921. It has the serial 
number 92129. It is in full working order and is in good condition as it has 
been a family heirloom.

Hoping that there is still a chance that the machine will find a good home?

Regards Don Holdsworth

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Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 07:19:17 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Hellooooo?
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Status: RO

At 05:34 PM 6/23/2007, you wrote:
>Katheryne
>who is trying to recover from the first week of (paid) work in over 
>2 years of unemployment.


You found a job! GREAT!! I'm so happy for you!

Dianne


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From: "E House" <swissgirl@swissinfo.org>
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X-ASG-Orig-Subj: V&A free high res downloads!
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Subject: [h-cost] V&A free high res downloads!
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Status: RO

If you register and log in at the V&A, you can now request high =
resolution images to be sent to you for acceptable (academic, etc) use.  =
I'd provide more details, but their website is being buggy!  I cannot =
seem to actually register. =20

To register, go to:
http://images.vam.ac.uk/indexplus/page/registration.html

For usage information on the high res images, go to:
http://images.vam.ac.uk/indexplus/page/T%26C+High+Resolution+Images.html

Ooooooohh boy am I ever going to make use if this if I can ever make use =
of it!

-E House
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun 24 20:01:33 2007
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From: "Jennifer Byrne" <tigg@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: RE: [h-cost] Hellooooo?
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 20:00:31 -0400
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Status: RO

Ha!  You'll have to wrestle my daughter for it!  I making Cranach's Mary
Magdalene for her to wear to our local Renn Faire.  (Thanks to Naergi for
posting such a great copy of this painting (here:
http://www.naergilien.info/Cranach/magdalenafull.jpg.)  It has been a huge
help to me.)  It was giving me a headache but then a light bulb went on and
all is well.....for the moment.

Many congrats your job, Katheryne!  Hang in there!

Jennifer

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of purplkat@optonline.net
Sent: June 23, 2007 5:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Hellooooo?

You gently wrap the velvet in a clean bed sheet, place it in a acid free
box, ...

And send it to meeee!!!!! .......

hehehehehehe

Katheryne
who is trying to recover from the first week of (paid) work in over 2 years
of unemployment.

----- Original Message -----
From: Jennifer Byrne 
>  
> B) the arrival of 10 yards of iridescent red silk velvet - Whoo 
> Hoo! Now what do I do?!
> 
> Jenn
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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor - headrail
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Status: RO

Has anyone else tried the headrail arrangement described in the "Tudor
Tailor" (p. 144)? I've got my yard of linen but can't make it quite
"go" - the back bunches up and I have no idea where the long ends of
the triangle can tuck under.

Am I working with too thick of a fabric (~5 oz. linen, dress rather
than handkerchief weight) or do I just need to keep working on it?

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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Status: RO

Jennifer Byrne wrote:
> Ha!  You'll have to wrestle my daughter for it!  I making Cranach's Mary
> Magdalene for her to wear to our local Renn Faire.  

I would love to see a picture of that when it is finished, be sure you 
post photos!


Dawn


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Status: RO

A. Thurman wrote:
> Has anyone else tried the headrail arrangement described in the "Tudor
> Tailor" (p. 144)? I've got my yard of linen but can't make it quite
> "go" - the back bunches up and I have no idea where the long ends of
> the triangle can tuck under.
> 

You have the square on your head with the fold pinned at your forehead...

The short end of the triangle at the back of your neck gets folded up 
under the part that drapes over the top of your head. At this point you 
have a trapezoid \___/ on your head.

The long ends on each side get crossed in the back and wrapped around to 
the front of your head where they tie. Tuck the ends under the part you 
wrapped around your head, at about your temples.



Dawn

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor - headrail
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Here are the photos someone posted from the workshop
in Vallejo, CA.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41633059@N00/sets/72157594583565881/show/
or 
http://tinyurl.com/253x2u

The head wrap is somewhere in the sequence.

MaggiRos

--- "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com> wrote:

> Has anyone else tried the headrail arrangement
> described in the "Tudor
> Tailor" (p. 144)? I've got my yard of linen but
> can't make it quite
> "go" - 

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Status: RO

Ah, you beat me to the punch. Those happen to be my
photos. It may get a little confusing, as the ladies
showed two different ways of wrapping with the yard
cloth. They also said, do whatever works for you, as
there is no one right way to do this.

Kimiko


--- MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Here are the photos someone posted from the workshop
> in Vallejo, CA.
>
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41633059@N00/sets/72157594583565881/show/
> or 
> http://tinyurl.com/253x2u
> 
> The head wrap is somewhere in the sequence.
> 
> MaggiRos



       
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <509070.12321.qm@web32202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor - headrail
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 06:44:16 -0700
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Status: RO

That is a tremendous set of photos!  Thanks so much....wish we had done =
the workshop in Phoenix....we just got the speech part....it was still =
great though!

Sg
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Kimiko Small<mailto:sstormwatch@yahoo.com>=20
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>=20
  Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 10:56 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor - headrail


  Ah, you beat me to the punch. Those happen to be my
  photos. It may get a little confusing, as the ladies
  showed two different ways of wrapping with the yard
  cloth. They also said, do whatever works for you, as
  there is no one right way to do this.

  Kimiko


  --- MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com<mailto:maggiros@yahoo.com>> wrote:

  > Here are the photos someone posted from the workshop
  > in Vallejo, CA.
  >
  =
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41633059@N00/sets/72157594583565881/show/<ht=
tp://www.flickr.com/photos/41633059@N00/sets/72157594583565881/show/>
  > or=20
  > http://tinyurl.com/253x2u<http://tinyurl.com/253x2u>
  >=20
  > The head wrap is somewhere in the sequence.
  >=20
  > MaggiRos



        =20
  =
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor - headrail
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Oh gosh, I'm sorry. I didn't mean to steal your
thunder, and I even knew it was your "gallery". I was
just so excited!

I guess the right way is whatever makes it stay on
your head! Remember, too, she said that half the
secret is in how you put up your hair to begin with. 

MaggiRos


--- Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Ah, you beat me to the punch. Those happen to be my
> photos. It may get a little confusing, as the ladies
> showed two different ways of wrapping with the yard
> cloth. They also said, do whatever works for you, as
> there is no one right way to do this.
> 

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Status: RO

I am working on my first attempts at civil war era and at 
corsetry.  I am using a pattern from one of the big 4 with some of my 
own engineering.  I mean bones and a busk and layers geesh.. but it 
is coming together.  Then I realized I can't finish it until I have a 
chemise to wear under it.  But I am starting to see the semblance of 
a garment so there is hope.  I have some blue and green plaid silk 
kind of a taffeta but not very stiff that I was going to use for the 
gown.  That should be ok for a civil war I think.  I don't really 
know too much about that era but I an going to costume college in 
August and wanted something in the theme.  I was amazed at how many 
patterns there are out there for that era at Joanne's I made a 
killing at their $1./pattern sale I think it was for simplicity.  I 
hope I finish on time!

Beverly Azizi

PS thank you for all the responses for my request for archives.

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Status: RO

How fortunate can you get?
I just got back from Rome.
Found a wonderfull silk supplier near Piazza Cavour who claims he has more 
than 600 collours to choose from.
Not nearly, but i had a book handled with  only taffetas, and found for my 
September event this one:
 http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/rom1.htm
Also maybe for a future projekt this one:

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/rom2.htm

By a gods gift i also found a rare rare excample of Moreau Le Jeaunnes 
prints, i am sure some of you know some f. eks.
Le rendevouz a Marly, Le dame au Pallais de la Reinne and so on.
All prints compleatly for 120 euros...............

Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 18:59:35 -0400
From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor Tailor - headrail
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Status: RO

Thank you very much for these! Lots of good ideas for ways I can
conceal my anachronistic hair!!

Allison T.

On 6/25/07, h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to

> Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2007 21:50:01 -0700 (PDT)
> From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor - headrail
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <20070625045001.4968.qmail@web32702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Here are the photos someone posted from the workshop
> in Vallejo, CA.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/41633059@N00/sets/72157594583565881/show/
> or
> http://tinyurl.com/253x2u
>
> The head wrap is somewhere in the sequence.
>
> MaggiRos
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Status: RO

Yummy!  Love your palate!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews

Subject: [h-cost] Fortuna

How fortunate can you get?
I just got back from Rome.
Found a wonderfull silk supplier near Piazza Cavour who claims he has more 
than 600 collours to choose from.
Not nearly, but i had a book handled with  only taffetas, and found for my 
September event this one:
 http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/rom1.htm

Bjarne


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Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 00:18:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor - headrail
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Oh, dear, no apology needed. The photos will
eventually end up on my personal web site, but I
wanted to upload them quickly to share with people.

And I agree on the hair arrangement. I just have to
learn how to french braid my now shorter hair.

Kimiko


--- MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Oh gosh, I'm sorry. I didn't mean to steal your
> thunder, and I even knew it was your "gallery". I
> was
> just so excited!
> 
> I guess the right way is whatever makes it stay on
> your head! Remember, too, she said that half the
> secret is in how you put up your hair to begin with.
> 
> 
> MaggiRos
> 



       
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hellooooo?
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Status: RO

I will!  Thanks for the reminder.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: June 24, 2007 11:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hellooooo?

Jennifer Byrne wrote:
> Ha!  You'll have to wrestle my daughter for it!  I making Cranach's Mary
> Magdalene for her to wear to our local Renn Faire.  

I would love to see a picture of that when it is finished, be sure you 
post photos!


Dawn


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun 26 11:41:21 2007
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Subject: [h-cost] St Louis corset party 
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Status: RO

Elena,

How are things out in St. Louis? Just as hot as KC, I bet.

I've finally got my corset pattern on order, hope to have it by the end 
of the week. We could be able to come out and visit you by the 2nd week 
in July. What do you think?



Dawn

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Status: RO


A friend asks:

"What do you call those sort of bloomers that men wore with hose in the
16th c in France. They are rounded in outline, striped, come to about mid
thigh."

Evidently he's looking for a French term, though if there's an obvious
English one I'll send him that as well.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
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Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:
> A friend asks:
> 
> "What do you call those sort of bloomers that men wore with hose in the
> 16th c in France. They are rounded in outline, striped, come to about mid
> thigh."
> 
> Evidently he's looking for a French term, though if there's an obvious
> English one I'll send him that as well.
> 

I believe the English term is "trunkhose", and those would be panes 
(thin panels) not stripes. They are sometimes called "pumpkin pants" in 
SCA and renfaire circles. The Swedish and German word is "pluderhose", 
but those tend to be knee-length.

I don't think I've ever heard a French term for them.


Dawn

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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

There's often called slops but the more generic term
is trunk hose. I don't know what they are in French.

MaggiRos
--- Robin Netherton <robin@netherton.net> wrote:

> 
> A friend asks:
> 
> "What do you call those sort of bloomers that men
> wore with hose in the
> 16th c in France. They are rounded in outline,
> striped, come to about mid
> thigh."
> 
> Evidently he's looking for a French term, though if
> there's an obvious
> English one I'll send him that as well.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _________

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Status: RO


Thank you, Dawn and MaggiRos! That's exactly what we needed.

--Robin


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 13:51:43 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

The "bloomers" were also called hose in England, though often with a  
modifier to denote the style:  trunk hose, round hose, Spanish hose,  
slop hose (sometimes just called slops).  The 16th century French- 
English dictionaries to which I have access call them chausses, and  
sometimes a modifier is added.

from Palsgrave (1530):
Vnes chausses, a payre of hosen.
Vnes brayes, a payre of sloppes or a payre of breches.  [brayes in  
Cotgrave are defined as underwear, so chausses is probably safer]
Payre of sloppe hoses braiettes a marinier
Schorte hose chausse courte
Payre of hole [sic] from the kne vp demy chausses

from Cotgrave (1611):
Chausse: A hose, a stocking, or netherstocke (Bas de Chausse) also, a  
breeke, or breech; (in which sence it is most commonly plurall) Haut  
de chausses.
Chausses a la bougrine.  Strait Venitians without codpeeces.
Chausses a la Garguesque.  Gregges, or Gallogaskins.
Chausses a la gigotte.  A fashion of very close Venitians; old  
fashioned Venitians.
Chausses a queue de merlus.  Round breeches with strait cannions;  
hauing in the seat a peece like a fishes tayle; and worn by old men,  
schollers, and such like niggarlie, or needie, persons.
Chausses a Tabourin.  Big, out-standing, or out-strouting, breeches;  
or the Swisse round rose, whose panes resemble the outside of a Taber.

 From the rather vague (and technically inaccurate--they're probably  
paned, not striped) description, it's not certain which of these he  
wants, though it's likely not either of the Venetian options.  The  
last one looks most likely, given the reference to panes.  Let me  
know if you need accent marks for any of these.

Cheers,
Melanie


On Jun 26, 2007, at 1:17 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> A friend asks:
>
> "What do you call those sort of bloomers that men wore with hose in  
> the
> 16th c in France. They are rounded in outline, striped, come to  
> about mid
> thigh."
>
> Evidently he's looking for a French term, though if there's an obvious
> English one I'll send him that as well.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 13:02:28 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
From: "Chiara Francesca" <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Did he mean these possibly?

http://lynnmcmasters.com/elizmanslopscloseup.html

Pansied slops.

Chiara


On Tue, June 26, 2007 12:17 pm, Robin Netherton wrote:
>
> A friend asks:
>
> "What do you call those sort of bloomers that men wore with hose in
> the
> 16th c in France. They are rounded in outline, striped, come to
> about mid
> thigh."
>
> Evidently he's looking for a French term, though if there's an
> obvious
> English one I'll send him that as well.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
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Status: RO

I've never heard of pansied slops.  I wonder where the name came  
from.  Aha--another online reference says it came from Winter and  
Savoy's book, which is almost completely untrustworthy.  I would  
treat this term with skepticism until a 16th-century reference can be  
found--does anyone have one?

Just curious,
Melanie


On Jun 26, 2007, at 2:02 PM, Chiara Francesca wrote:

> Did he mean these possibly?
>
> http://lynnmcmasters.com/elizmanslopscloseup.html
>
> Pansied slops.
>
> Chiara
>
>
> On Tue, June 26, 2007 12:17 pm, Robin Netherton wrote:
>>
>> A friend asks:
>>
>> "What do you call those sort of bloomers that men wore with hose in
>> the
>> 16th c in France. They are rounded in outline, striped, come to
>> about mid
>> thigh."
>>
>> Evidently he's looking for a French term, though if there's an
>> obvious
>> English one I'll send him that as well.
>>
>> --Robin
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

At 18:17 26/06/2007, you wrote:

>A friend asks:
>
>"What do you call those sort of bloomers that men wore with hose in the
>16th c in France. They are rounded in outline, striped, come to about mid
>thigh."
>
>Evidently he's looking for a French term, though if there's an obvious
>English one I'll send him that as well.

I believe the term is  "Les hauts-de chausses". Taken from 
Flammarion's "Le Costume part ll La Renaissance -le style Louis Xlll 
by Jacques Ruppert".

I cannot find an exact translation of the above phrase, but the 
accompanying picture makes it clear that these are trunk hose, as 
they are generally called in England. Longer versions, to the knee, 
are called h-d-c- "a lodiers". (Sorry no accents - don't know how!)

Suzi

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Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 13:35:17 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
From: "Chiara Francesca" <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Greetings Melanie,

I had never heard of them either, that is why I asked a french type
person and he sent me to that visual link. :)

But I love the definitions that you just posted a few minutes ago.
Neto!

Chiara


On Tue, June 26, 2007 1:23 pm, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> I've never heard of pansied slops.  I wonder where the name came
> from.  Aha--another online reference says it came from Winter and
> Savoy's book, which is almost completely untrustworthy.  I would
> treat this term with skepticism until a 16th-century reference can
> be
> found--does anyone have one?
>
> Just curious,
> Melanie
>

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Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 19:35:32 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
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Status: RO

At 19:23 26/06/2007, you wrote:
>I've never heard of pansied slops.  I wonder where the name came
>from.  Aha--another online reference says it came from Winter and
>Savoy's book, which is almost completely untrustworthy.  I would
>treat this term with skepticism until a 16th-century reference can be
>found--does anyone have one?
>
>Just curious,
>Melanie
>
>
>On Jun 26, 2007, at 2:02 PM, Chiara Francesca wrote:
>
>>Did he mean these possibly?
>>
>>http://lynnmcmasters.com/elizmanslopscloseup.html
>>
>>Pansied slops.
>>
>>ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

This could be a translation of "la panse" or pourpoint a panseron" 
which were derogatory terms for the clothes worn by the "feminine" 
gentlemen of the court of Henri lll - "les hommes effemines". 
(Although these seem to refer to the doublet, rather than the 
breeches or trunk hose.) (Ruppert again.)

Suzi 

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Status: RO


Melanie's amazing reply did the job for my friend. Thanks, all. (Though
feel free to discuss amongst yourselves if it pleases you. I've learned
that the simplest queries can lead to the longest threads.)

Back to editing manuscripts about Scandinavian archaeological textiles...

--Robin

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 14:42:13 -0400
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Status: RO


On Jun 26, 2007, at 2:35 PM, Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> This could be a translation of "la panse" or pourpoint a panseron"  
> which were derogatory terms for the clothes worn by the "feminine"  
> gentlemen of the court of Henri lll - "les hommes effemines".  
> (Although these seem to refer to the doublet, rather than the  
> breeches or trunk hose.) (Ruppert again.)

Interesting connection!  Speaking of Henri's mignons, I once had a  
digital copy of a painting of them.  IIRC, it was a bust-length  
painting of three guys in profile with their hair done up like  
women.  Does anyone know where I could find this again?  It was so  
wonderfully unusual, but somehow it disappeared.

Thanks,
Melanie

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Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 19:58:37 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
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Status: RO

At 19:42 26/06/2007, you wrote:

>On Jun 26, 2007, at 2:35 PM, Suzi Clarke wrote:
>>
>>This could be a translation of "la panse" or pourpoint a panseron"
>>which were derogatory terms for the clothes worn by the "feminine"
>>gentlemen of the court of Henri lll - "les hommes effemines".
>>(Although these seem to refer to the doublet, rather than the
>>breeches or trunk hose.) (Ruppert again.)
>
>Interesting connection!  Speaking of Henri's mignons, I once had a
>digital copy of a painting of them.  IIRC, it was a bust-length
>painting of three guys in profile with their hair done up like
>women.  Does anyone know where I could find this again?  It was so
>wonderfully unusual, but somehow it disappeared.


I have a copy of this in an American costume book, which I cannot get 
at right now - would it be "The Mirror of Fashion"? I will go look if you want.

Suzi

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Status: RO


Someone asked me about the editing on "Scandinavian archaeological
textiles" I'm in the middle of, and it occurred to me you all might like a
sneak peek of the tentative contents of Vol. 4 (2008) of Medieval Clothing
and Textiles.

Flax/linen production in medieval Russia
References to scarlet clothing in Norse sagas
The connection between Italian and Anglo-Saxon terms for "wimple"
Linguistic background of "coif/cuff"
Analysis of an extant 14th c. coif
A visual classification method for archaeological textiles
The "Greenland gown" and mainland European fashion
Women's turbans in 15th c. French illuminations
Henry VIII's quilts

So, the usual range of disciplines (art, literature, archaeology,
language, history, fashion study), periods (Anglo-Saxon to Tudor), and
places (Russia, Scandinavia, France, England, Italy). We've also noticed
that each volume seems to develop "clusters" in certain topics; this seems
to be the one for Scandinavia, archaeology, and headgear.

(Yes, the Greenland gown paper is mine, the long-promised publication
based on my lecture on this topic, which some of you have heard. Even now
I wish I could do more on it, but I just don't have time to read all the
books I want to read...)

Of course this all assumes I don't go mad. I'm in the midst of copyediting
footnotes in at least eight languages, written by people whose native
languages are (respectively) Italian, Finnish, Danish, Norwegian, and
Swedish as well as English. A little much for someone with only French,
though it's odd to realize I'm understanding more and more of the Danish
and Norwegian at first glance.

--Robin


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 15:11:17 -0400
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Status: RO

Excellent!  At your convenience, I would love a scan, or if you don't  
have a scanner, an author and a page number.  I can ILL it.

I'm so excited!  I've had an eye out for this for years but have  
never spotted it.

Thanks so much,
Melanie


On Jun 26, 2007, at 2:58 PM, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> At 19:42 26/06/2007, you wrote:
>>
>> Interesting connection!  Speaking of Henri's mignons, I once had a
>> digital copy of a painting of them.  IIRC, it was a bust-length
>> painting of three guys in profile with their hair done up like
>> women.  Does anyone know where I could find this again?  It was so
>> wonderfully unusual, but somehow it disappeared.
>
>
> I have a copy of this in an American costume book, which I cannot  
> get at right now - would it be "The Mirror of Fashion"? I will go  
> look if you want.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] MC&T4 (was: Scandinavian archaeological textiles)
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Status: RO

Whooo hoooo!   I already want a copy.
Mari


> Someone asked me about the editing on "Scandinavian archaeological
> textiles" I'm in the middle of, and it occurred to me you all might like a
> sneak peek of the tentative contents of Vol. 4 (2008) of Medieval Clothing
> and Textiles.
>
> Flax/linen production in medieval Russia
> References to scarlet clothing in Norse sagas
> The connection between Italian and Anglo-Saxon terms for "wimple"
> Linguistic background of "coif/cuff"
> Analysis of an extant 14th c. coif
> A visual classification method for archaeological textiles
> The "Greenland gown" and mainland European fashion
> Women's turbans in 15th c. French illuminations
> Henry VIII's quilts
>
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Round hose, yes. I knew I was forgetting something.

Trunk hose are all manner of hose covering the trunk
(as opposed to nether hose, which cover the lower
legs). But Round hose was the correct name for slops
in and of themselves. Round paned hose when they have
panes over them.

Thank you Melanie!

MaggiRos


--- Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:

> The "bloomers" were also called hose in England,
> though often with a  
> modifier to denote the style:  trunk hose, round
> hose, Spanish hose,  
> slop hose (sometimes just called slops).  The 16th
> century French- 
> English dictionaries to which I have access call
> them chausses, and  
> sometimes a modifier is added.
> 

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Schultz & Winter use "pansied" for some slops so brief
there doesn't seem to be any room for a crotch. Kinda
like this: 

http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/21629-large.jpg

More than that, I can't say.

MaggiRos
--- Chiara Francesca <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Greetings Melanie,
> 
> I had never heard of them either, that is why I
> asked a french type
> person and he sent me to that visual link. :)
> 
> But I love the definitions that you just posted a
> few minutes ago.
> Neto!
> 
> Chiara
> 
> 
> On Tue, June 26, 2007 1:23 pm, Melanie Schuessler
> wrote:
> > I've never heard of pansied slops.  I wonder where
> the name came
> > from.  Aha--another online reference says it came
> from Winter and
> > Savoy's book, which is almost completely
> untrustworthy.  I would
> > treat this term with skepticism until a
> 16th-century reference can
> > be
> > found--does anyone have one?
> >
> > Just curious,
> > Melanie
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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From: MaggiRos <maggiros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Elizabethan paper dolls Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

By the way, I stumbled over this charming site. It's
paper dolls for Taming of the Shrew as a Globe
production. That is, all the women's clothes go on a
boy's figure--of course.

http://www.gallimauphry.com/PD/shrew/shrew.html

and the main page is
http://www.gallimauphry.com/PD/gateway3.html


MaggiRos



~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 14:11:21 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] MC&T4 (was: Scandinavian archaeological textiles)
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Status: RO

Oh WOW, Robin!!! This looks so cool! :D

When will it be available?

May I pass this along to some of my local and kingdom lists?

WOO-HOO!! :-)

Arlys

On Tue, 26 Jun 2007 14:12:38 -0500 (CDT) Robin Netherton
<robin@netherton.net> writes:
> 
> Someone asked me about the editing on "Scandinavian archaeological
> textiles" I'm in the middle of, and it occurred to me you all might 
> like a
> sneak peek of the tentative contents of Vol. 4 (2008) of Medieval 
> Clothing
> and Textiles.
> 
> Flax/linen production in medieval Russia
> References to scarlet clothing in Norse sagas
> The connection between Italian and Anglo-Saxon terms for "wimple"
> Linguistic background of "coif/cuff"
> Analysis of an extant 14th c. coif
> A visual classification method for archaeological textiles
> The "Greenland gown" and mainland European fashion
> Women's turbans in 15th c. French illuminations
> Henry VIII's quilts
> 
> So, the usual range of disciplines (art, literature, archaeology,
> language, history, fashion study), periods (Anglo-Saxon to Tudor), 
> and
> places (Russia, Scandinavia, France, England, Italy). We've also 
> noticed
> that each volume seems to develop "clusters" in certain topics; this 
> seems
> to be the one for Scandinavia, archaeology, and headgear.
> 
> (Yes, the Greenland gown paper is mine, the long-promised 
> publication
> based on my lecture on this topic, which some of you have heard. 
> Even now
> I wish I could do more on it, but I just don't have time to read all 
> the
> books I want to read...)
> 
> Of course this all assumes I don't go mad. I'm in the midst of 
> copyediting
> footnotes in at least eight languages, written by people whose 
> native
> languages are (respectively) Italian, Finnish, Danish, Norwegian, 
> and
> Swedish as well as English. A little much for someone with only 
> French,
> though it's odd to realize I'm understanding more and more of the 
> Danish
> and Norwegian at first glance.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Elizabethan paper dolls Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
References: <917441.80911.qm@web32715.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

MaggiRos wrote:
> By the way, I stumbled over this charming site. It's
> paper dolls for Taming of the Shrew as a Globe
> production. That is, all the women's clothes go on a
> boy's figure--of course.
> 
> http://www.gallimauphry.com/PD/shrew/shrew.html

Those look familiar... yes, the same artist did a series of Italian 
Renaissance dolls a while ago:

http://www.gallimauphry.com/PD/venus/ren.html

Just lovely.



Dawn



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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need a term...
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 14:29:19 -0700
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Status: RO

My friend's husband's pansied slops are tight hose to the knee. The
"pansied" parts are very short, almost like an overskirt. (just like the
link in MaggiRos'message)There is an under "poufy" part, covered by the
embroidered strappy parts. They do Not have a crotch. That function is
carried out by the tight under hose. She's a very good, precise =
costumer, so
I will ask her where she got the info/reference for them.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] =
On
Behalf Of MaggiRos
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 12:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...


Schultz & Winter use "pansied" for some slops so brief
there doesn't seem to be any room for a crotch. Kinda
like this:=20

http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/21629-large.jpg

More than that, I can't say.

MaggiRos
--- Chiara Francesca <Chiara.Francesca@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Greetings Melanie,
>=20
> I had never heard of them either, that is why I
> asked a french type
> person and he sent me to that visual link. :)
>=20
> But I love the definitions that you just posted a
> few minutes ago.
> Neto!
>=20
> Chiara
>=20
>=20
> On Tue, June 26, 2007 1:23 pm, Melanie Schuessler
> wrote:
> > I've never heard of pansied slops.  I wonder where
> the name came
> > from.  Aha--another online reference says it came
> from Winter and
> > Savoy's book, which is almost completely
> untrustworthy.  I would
> > treat this term with skepticism until a
> 16th-century reference can
> > be
> > found--does anyone have one?
> >
> > Just curious,
> > Melanie
> >
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>=20


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
     Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Subject: [h-cost] Need a term...
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 26/06/2007 19:01:22 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

"What do  you call those sort of bloomers that men wore with hose in the
16th c in  France. They are rounded in outline, striped, come to about  mid
thigh."


probably already been answered, but could be one of two items.
 
plunderhosen (or pluderhosen) are the ones with trips, but they're longer -  
usually just above or below the knee.
 
trunkhosen are the short ones often seen with canions and hosen, but the  
apparent stripes that you see in picures are more likely to be depicting the  
massive amounts of pleating 
 
 



   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bernina Sewing machine "user manuals"
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Status: RO

julian wilson wrote:
> Gentles of The Lists,
>   would anyone like to point me in the direction of a good source [downloadable or otherwise] for Users manuals for the following Bernina machines - the 700, 730, & Bernina CMatic 801 Electronic?
>    

Not downloadable, but a resource for manuals nonetheless.

http://sewing.about.com/od/beginner1/ig/Sewing-Tools/Sewing-Machine-Manuals.htm



Dawn

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bernina Sewing machine "user manuals"
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 17:39:54 -0500
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Status: RO

This site claims to have manuals for many models, both print anPDF versions:

http://www.sewconsult.com/bernina_instruction_manuals.htm

Kim (no affiliation) 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of julian wilson
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 4:30 PM
To: aotc@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Bernina Sewing machine "user manuals"

Gentles of The Lists,
  would anyone like to point me in the direction of a good source
[downloadable or otherwise] for Users manuals for the following Bernina
machines - the 700, 730, & Bernina CMatic 801 Electronic?
   
  Our little Island-isolated groups of  living-history interpreters and SCA
members wanted to start making garb, - and I've bought in a number of sewing
machines from our local equivalent of Goodwill.  Before they go out "on
loan" to members, I want to make sure they all have user manuals. The
trouble is that none of them had user manuals when I bought them secondhand,
and though I've had them all serviced at my own expense by the local Sewing
Machine Engineer, he couldn't provide me with copies of the User manuals for
any of them.
   
  Help! Please?
   
  "Matthew Baker"
  dwelling in "old" Jersey.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 19:25:43 -0400
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Status: RO

You're welcome!  But I'm not sure I agree that slops and round hose  
are the same thing.  Certainly some of the definitions I sent suggest  
that variations had different names.  Palsgrave associates slops with  
sailors' hose while Cotgrave talks about the big round hose of the  
Swiss.  I'm sure it also depends on exactly when and where.

Melanie


On Jun 26, 2007, at 3:44 PM, MaggiRos wrote:

> Round hose, yes. I knew I was forgetting something.
>
> Trunk hose are all manner of hose covering the trunk
> (as opposed to nether hose, which cover the lower
> legs). But Round hose was the correct name for slops
> in and of themselves. Round paned hose when they have
> panes over them.
>
> Thank you Melanie!
>
> MaggiRos


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] MC&T4 (was: Scandinavian archaeological textiles)
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 19:41:26 -0400
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Status: RO

On Tuesday 26 June 2007, Robin Netherton wrote:
> Someone asked me about the editing on "Scandinavian archaeological
> textiles" I'm in the middle of, and it occurred to me you all might like a
> sneak peek of the tentative contents of Vol. 4 (2008) of Medieval Clothing
> and Textiles.
>
> Flax/linen production in medieval Russia
> References to scarlet clothing in Norse sagas
> The connection between Italian and Anglo-Saxon terms for "wimple"
> Linguistic background of "coif/cuff"
> Analysis of an extant 14th c. coif
> A visual classification method for archaeological textiles
> The "Greenland gown" and mainland European fashion
> Women's turbans in 15th c. French illuminations
> Henry VIII's quilts
>
> So, the usual range of disciplines (art, literature, archaeology,
> language, history, fashion study), periods (Anglo-Saxon to Tudor), and
> places (Russia, Scandinavia, France, England, Italy). We've also noticed
> that each volume seems to develop "clusters" in certain topics; this seems
> to be the one for Scandinavia, archaeology, and headgear.

Okay, IV I will definitely need to buy....

Thanks for the heads-up.

-- 
Cathy "still waffling about III..." Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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Status: RO


On Tue, 26 Jun 2007, Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> Oh WOW, Robin!!! This looks so cool! :D
> 
> When will it be available?
> 
> May I pass this along to some of my local and kingdom lists?

Glad you like it! Yes, might as well drum up some interest -- but remember
the list I just posted is for the volume slated for release in May 2008.
Some people may not yet have looked over our brand-new 2007 volume, so you
would do me a favor if you included info on that, too. It has papers on
these topics:

Anglo-Saxon household textiles
Anglo-Saxon clerical vestments
Saints in Opus Anglicanum embroidery on vestments
Color preferences in Flemish luxury woollens
Wool finishing
Symbolism of rich garments in a Spanish religious story
Fingerloop braiding
Medieval textile bookmarkers
Children's clothes in Tudor England

...that last one written by h-cost's very own Melanie Schuessler.

You'll find the contents of Volume 3 listed in more detail here:
	http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832917.HTM

And the entire series here:
	http://www.boydell.co.uk/MEDSES.HTM

Since you'll be posting to SCA lists, you might want to note that each of
these volumes includes some authors who are SCA members who have made the
leap to academic publishing, and that each volume includes at least one
article that reflects the use of reconstruction as a research tool.

--Robin


==========================================================
Robin Netherton 
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
robin@netherton.net
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1666
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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Status: RO

Gentles of The Lists,
  would anyone like to point me in the direction of a good source [downloadable or otherwise] for Users manuals for the following Bernina machines - the 700, 730, & Bernina CMatic 801 Electronic?
   
  Our little Island-isolated groups of  living-history interpreters and SCA members wanted to start making garb, - and I've bought in a number of sewing machines from our local equivalent of Goodwill.  Before they go out "on loan" to members, I want to make sure they all have user manuals. The trouble is that none of them had user manuals when I bought them secondhand, and though I've had them all serviced at my own expense by the local Sewing Machine Engineer, he couldn't provide me with copies of the User manuals for any of them.
   
  Help! Please?
   
  "Matthew Baker"
  dwelling in "old" Jersey.
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Subject: [h-cost] Accents, tildes, and symbols
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Status: RO

=20
In a message dated 6/26/2007 2:31:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, =20
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

(Sorry  no accents - don't know how!)

Suzi



*****************
=20
=20
FYI....
=20
I don't know how to do it on a Mac, but if you have Windows:
=20
Go to START
=20
Then to "All Programs"
=20
then to "Accessories"
=20
then to "System Tools"
=20
Find the "Character Map" and go to it.
=20
At the top of that window you will see a drop down list of fonts [The =20
default is usually Ariel] Find the font you want...though most have the  sam=
e=20
characters in the same place.
=20
Then there's a grid with all the characters of that font displayed. If you =20
click on the letter with an accent you want...or the symbol you want... it w=
ill=20
 show up on the grid larger. You may select it by clicking on the "select"=20
button  or by double clicking the character. Then you may copy it by using t=
he=20
"copy"  button and paste it in your text wherever you want.
=20
Also, if you click on the letter you want, at the bottom of the window =20
you'll see a written description of the letter and , on the far right lower=20=
 corner=20
the word "Keystroke" followed by "alt" and a number. If you hold down the =20
"alt" key on your keyboard, and type in the number over in the number pad on=
 the=20
 right side of the keyboard [as opposed to the numbers above the letters] th=
e=20
 letter you chose will appear. This will happen whether you have the=20
character  map up or not.
This all sounds complicated but in practice it's not.
For instance, I use bullets a lot so I know the number. Anytime I  press=20
"Alt" plus 0183 on the number pad, a bullet will appear in my text.  like th=
is: =20
=B7=B7=B7 [3 of them]
=20
Here's an "n" with a tilde for Spanish... "alt" plus the number  0241:  =20=
=F1
Here's the capital "N" with a tilde... "alt" +  0209:    =D1
=20
If you're just using a character in just one post, it's easier to just copy=20=
=20
it and paste it. But if you use it all the time, you might as well memorize=20
the  number, then you won't need to go to the Character Map.
=20
You can also drag the icon for the character map to your desktop from the =20
Programs menu. That way you don't have to go to Start and all that, there wi=
ll =20
be a shortcut to it on your desk top.
=20
=20
Now....who knows how to do it on a Mac?
=20
=20



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com=
.
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 00:35:40 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] 16th c. hat structure
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Status: RO

I  can't recall who, but I seem to remember someone asking what the =20
structure inside 16th-century hats was.  I came across a reference to =20=

a felt understructure today in the accounts of Robert Dudley =20
(Leicester) from 1559-61:

Item for making a chrymissin velvet cap for Sir Henry Sydney=92s son & =20=

a band of copper sylver & a fether & trymyng it with buttons  vijs. vjd.
Item for cuttyng out and makyng his hatt ymbrothered with sylver & =20
for felt lynyng and underturfs to ytt  vs.

(translation:
Item, for making a crimson velvet cap for Sir Henry Sydney=92s son and =20=

a band of copper silver and a feather and trimming it with buttons  7 =20=

shillings, 6 pence.
Item, for cutting out and making his hat embroidered with silver and =20
for felt lining and underturfs to it  5 shillings.)

The underturf was, I think, the fabric facing on the underside of the =20=

brim.  The wording of the entry could also mean that the underturf is =20=

the brim structure, made of felt the same as the lining.

Melanie Schuessler=
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Accents, tildes, and symbols
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Status: RO



FYI....

I don't know how to do it on a Mac, but if you have Windows:

Go to START

Then to "All Programs"

then to "Accessories"

then to "System Tools"

Find the "Character Map" and go to it.

<snip>
or even easier, open a word document click on the insert menu, click on 
symbol and select the accented letter you want click on insert and then copy 
that character into your email.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Status: RO


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melanie Schuessler" <melanie@faucet.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 4:23 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...


> I've never heard of pansied slops.  I wonder where the name came  from. 
> Aha--another online reference says it came from Winter and  Savoy's book, 
> which is almost completely untrustworthy.  I would  treat this term with 
> skepticism until a 16th-century reference can be  found--does anyone have 
> one?
>
> Just curious,
> Melanie
>
to me it looks like a typo for pained slops, where the typo first turned up 
would be interesting to track down.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bernina Sewing machine "user manuals"
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 22:06:05 -0700
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Status: RO

Hi,


If you'll contact me off list, I might be able to help re: manual for
Bernina 830.

Laurie
costumeraz@quest.net


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of julian wilson
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 2:30 PM
To: aotc@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Bernina Sewing machine "user manuals"

Gentles of The Lists,
  would anyone like to point me in the direction of a good source
[downloadable or otherwise] for Users manuals for the following Bernina
machines - the 700, 730, & Bernina CMatic 801 Electronic?
   
  Our little Island-isolated groups of  living-history interpreters and SCA
members wanted to start making garb, - and I've bought in a number of sewing
machines from our local equivalent of Goodwill.  Before they go out "on
loan" to members, I want to make sure they all have user manuals. The
trouble is that none of them had user manuals when I bought them secondhand,
and though I've had them all serviced at my own expense by the local Sewing
Machine Engineer, he couldn't provide me with copies of the User manuals for
any of them.
   
  Help! Please?
   
  "Matthew Baker"
  dwelling in "old" Jersey.
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Status: RO

I wonder if it's someone's derivation of 'paniered' slops. As in 'paned'.

Arlys

On Thu, 28 Jun 2007 02:54:28 +1000 "Elizabeth Walpole"
<ewalpole@tpg.com.au> writes:
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Melanie Schuessler" <melanie@faucet.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 4:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
> 
> 
> > I've never heard of pansied slops.  I wonder where the name came  
> from. 
> > Aha--another online reference says it came from Winter and  
> Savoy's book, 
> > which is almost completely untrustworthy.  I would  treat this 
> term with 
> > skepticism until a 16th-century reference can be  found--does 
> anyone have 
> > one?
> >
> > Just curious,
> > Melanie
> >
> to me it looks like a typo for pained slops, where the typo first 
> turned up 
> would be interesting to track down.
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
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Status: RO

> "What do  you call those sort of bloomers that men wore with hose in the
> 16th c in  France. They are rounded in outline, striped, come to about  mid
> thigh."

The puffy ones? Slops,

-C.


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Status: RO

International diacritics on a Mac are reasonably easy: hold down the Option
key, type the letter it affects (if you want the Spanish "upside-down
question mark" type the question mark, the upside-down exclamation point is
Option + 1... German ess-tset is option + s).  Some of them are a little
more involved: because the French accents get the option + e, Umlauts have
to be option + u + e (or i or a...)

There is a web page that lists them all by language (at least for the main
ones; more esoteric ones can probably be found elsewhere):

http://www.ccsf.edu/Departments/Language_Lab/accentsmac.htm

Cheers,
Sharon in Virginia
(Meli)

AlbertCat wrote:

> (Sorry  no accents - don't know how!)
>
> Suzi

*****************

FYI....

I don't know how to do it on a Mac
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
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Status: RO


The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to 
share.............
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Accents, tildes, and symbols
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 13:21:04 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

For Mac, if you're using Microsoft Word, you can either go to the =20
Insert Menu and choose "symbol," which will show you what is =20
available in the font you're working with, click what you want, and =20
then click "insert"--

OR you can learn a few of the Option combinations:
pressing Option and the ~` key together, for example, will hold a =20
place, then pressing the letter you want accented will print the =20
letter with an accent grave-- =E8.
Option and e, then the letter, will make an accent =E9gue--=E9.
Option and i, then a letter, gives the letter an accent circonflex--=F4.
Option and u, then the letter, will give you an umlauted letter =FC, =E4, =
=20
etc.
Option and c automatically gives a c with a cedilla, =E7.
Option and o gives you =F8.
Option and n produces a place, then typing n again gives you =F1.
And so on.
Experiment with your Option key if you've got a Mac, then learn the =20
combinations that give you the accidentals you want.

THEN the challenge is persuading your e-mail server to send what =20
you've typed. I don't know if these wonderful illustrations I've =20
typed in will reproduce in the message everybody receives. So if =20
you're reading this message and seeing formatting commands rather =20
than accents, umlauts, cedillas, tildas, etc., then you're =20
experiencing the miracle of incompatible programs!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Jun 26, 2007, at 11:53 PM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 6/26/2007 2:31:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
> (Sorry  no accents - don't know how!)
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
> *****************
>
>
> FYI....
>
> I don't know how to do it on a Mac, but if you have Windows:
>
> Go to START
>
> Then to "All Programs"
>
> then to "Accessories"
>
> then to "System Tools"
>
> Find the "Character Map" and go to it.
>
> At the top of that window you will see a drop down list of fonts [The
> default is usually Ariel] Find the font you want...though most have =20=

> the  same
> characters in the same place.
>
> Then there's a grid with all the characters of that font displayed. =20=

> If you
> click on the letter with an accent you want...or the symbol you =20
> want... it will
>  show up on the grid larger. You may select it by clicking on the =20
> "select"
> button  or by double clicking the character. Then you may copy it =20
> by using the
> "copy"  button and paste it in your text wherever you want.
>
> Also, if you click on the letter you want, at the bottom of the window
> you'll see a written description of the letter and , on the far =20
> right lower  corner
> the word "Keystroke" followed by "alt" and a number. If you hold =20
> down the
> "alt" key on your keyboard, and type in the number over in the =20
> number pad on the
>  right side of the keyboard [as opposed to the numbers above the =20
> letters] the
>  letter you chose will appear. This will happen whether you have the
> character  map up or not.
> This all sounds complicated but in practice it's not.
> For instance, I use bullets a lot so I know the number. Anytime I  =20
> press
> "Alt" plus 0183 on the number pad, a bullet will appear in my =20
> text.  like this:
> =B7=B7=B7 [3 of them]
>
> Here's an "n" with a tilde for Spanish... "alt" plus the number  =20
> 0241:   =F1
> Here's the capital "N" with a tilde... "alt" +  0209:    =D1
>
> If you're just using a character in just one post, it's easier to =20
> just copy
> it and paste it. But if you use it all the time, you might as well =20
> memorize
> the  number, then you won't need to go to the Character Map.
>
> You can also drag the icon for the character map to your desktop =20
> from the
> Programs menu. That way you don't have to go to Start and all that, =20=

> there will
> be a shortcut to it on your desk top.
>
>
> Now....who knows how to do it on a Mac?
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at http://=20
> www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 12:05:40 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: "Sharon L. Krossa" <skrossa-ml2@MedievalScotland.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Marks on the Mac Platform
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Status: RO

At 8:21 AM -0400 6/27/07, Sharon Henderson wrote:
>International diacritics on a Mac are reasonably easy: hold down the Option
>key, type the letter it affects (if you want the Spanish "upside-down
>question mark" type the question mark, the upside-down exclamation point is
>Option + 1... German ess-tset is option + s).  Some of them are a little
>more involved: because the French accents get the option + e, Umlauts have
>to be option + u + e (or i or a...)

That is, to type an "e" with an umlaut, type option+u, then type e; 
to type a "u" with an umlaut, type option+u, then type u; and so on. 
For typable accents/diacritics, the Mac works on the idea that you 
type the key combination to produce the diacritic, then type the 
letter the diacritic goes over/on. Acute accent is option+e (then the 
letter it goes over), grave accent is option+grave accent key (then 
the letter it goes over), umlaut is option+u (then the letter it goes 
over), circumflex is option+i  (then the letter it goes over), tilde 
is option+n (then the letter it goes over), and so on. Note that for 
these common diacritics, the key combined with option to produce the 
diacritic is that of a letter most/very commonly used/associated with 
that diacritic (thus, u for umlaut, n for tilde, e for acute accent, 
etc.), which makes it easier to remember.

>There is a web page that lists them all by language (at least for the main
>ones; more esoteric ones can probably be found elsewhere):
>
>http://www.ccsf.edu/Departments/Language_Lab/accentsmac.htm

There is also the option of using either the keyboard viewer or the 
character palette. The keyboard viewer shows what keys to type to 
produce letters (including special highlighting of keys used in the 
kind of additive diacritic combinations described above). So, in 
keyboard viewer, if you press option it shows you what letters would 
be produced by each key pressed while option is held down, with the 
some keys marked a different color to show that they are added to 
whatever it typed next.

The character palette lets you enter any character from any font 
(including all the weird and wonderful things available now via 
Unicode) and has a "favorites" feature to make it even easier to 
insert characters you use frequently (I have thorns, edhs, yoghs, and 
schwas in my favorites ;-).

In Mac OS 10.4.x at least (and probably earlier versions), the 
keyboard viewer and character palette are accessed via the Input Menu 
marked by the little flag towards the right hand side of the menu bar 
(for those using U.S. keyboard, the flag is a US flag, etc.). If you 
don't have the flag menu, or it doesn't have character palette as an 
option, then go to System Preferences, choose International, choose 
Input Menu, then make sure the check boxes are checked for "Show 
input menu in menu bar", "Character Palette" and "Keyboard viewer".

Sharon
-- 
Sharon Krossa, PhD  -  skrossa-ml2@MedievalScotland.org
Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language & more:
    Medieval Scotland - http://www.MedievalScotland.org/
     Shopping Online? Help support! - http://MedievalScotland.org/patron/
The most complete index of reliable web articles about pre-1600 names:
    The Medieval Names Archive - http://www.s-gabriel.org/names/
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Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 13:10:38 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
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Status: RO

At 09:10 AM 6/27/2007, you wrote:

>The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to share.............
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

Sofie looks lovely.  You've made another masterpiece!


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000501c7b8d5$a59775a0$0443a150@CPQ21932199711>
	<200706272012.l5RKCEOf079863@net.indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 22:29:26 +0200
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Status: RO

Oh gosh,
Thanks a lot Joan...........

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.


> At 09:10 AM 6/27/2007, you wrote:
>
>>The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to 
>>share.............
>>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> Sofie looks lovely.  You've made another masterpiece!
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: tigg@twcny.rr.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
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Status: RO

Oh, Bjarne, that is just exquisite!  You must be so proud and she must 
have been utterly delighted.  How very charming!  

----- Original Message -----
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Date: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 12:14 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
To: h-costume@indra.com

> 
> The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to 
> share.............
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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From: "Paula Praxis" <praxis_729@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 16:51:46 -0700
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Status: RO

Sooooo very beautiful!!  You are extremely talented and she is extremely 
lucky to have you as her costumer.
Paula


>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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>
>The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to 
>share.............
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm
>
>
>
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>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
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Status: RO

Wonderful! My daughter and I are drooling!
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:10 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.



The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to 
share.............
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Need a term...
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Status: RO

> On Tue, June 26, 2007 12:17 pm, Robin Netherton wrote:
> > "What do you call those sort of bloomers that men wore with hose in
> > the 16th c in France. They are rounded in outline, striped, come to
> > about mid thigh."
> >
> > Evidently he's looking for a French term, though if there's an
> > obvious  English one I'll send him that as well.

I love an excuse to dig thru moldy old french dictionaries. Caution,
some of these definitions are in older French and the meanings are not
necessarily what you might be used to.  Others have defiinitions given
in Latin.
While Thresor de la langue fran=E7aise (1606) is the oldest
French-French dictionary, there is an earlier one that gives Latin
definitions for French expressions.

chausse (Page 118)
Chausse, f. C'est l'habillement de la jambe d'un homme ou femme. --
from Thresor de la langue fran=E7aise (1606) Jean Nicot

Chausse, ou Bas de chausse, Tibiale, huius tibialis.
Haut de chausses, Femoralia et subligacula.
Chausses entretenans, Femoralia cum subligaculis.
  -- from Thresor de la langue fran=E7aise (1606) Jean Nicot


CHAUSSE. s. f. Partie du vestement qui couvre les cuisses, ou les
jambes & les pieds. On appelle Haut de chausses ou haut de chausse, &
simplement en pluriel chausses, ce qui sert =E0 couvrir les cuisses. Et,
Bas de chausses, & plus ordinairement Bas, Ce qui couvre les jambes.
Un haut de chausses d'escarlatte. mettre, attacher, destacher ses
chausses. mettre chausses bas. une chausse de drap. chausses de toile.
il a le pourpoint & les chausses de mesme. chausses pliss=E9es. chausses
=E0 la matelote, =E0 la Suisse. tirez-moy mes chausses. --Dictionnaire de
L'Acad=E9mie fran=E7aise, 1st Edition (1694)

>This could be a translation of "la panse" or pourpoint a panseron"
>which were derogatory terms for the clothes worn by the "feminine"
>gentlemen of the court of Henri lll - "les hommes effemines".
>(Although these seem to refer to the doublet, rather than the
>breeches or trunk hose.) (Ruppert again.)

>Suzi

Neither of these expressions, panse or panseron, turn up in old
dictionaries, Suzi. Where are they cited?
There's the old saying "Apres la panse vient la danse" which means
"after dinner (after the fat belly), the dancing begins". The English
proverbial equivalent is all things in due time.
If this does refer to a doublet, it would certainly seem to point to
one for a man who has dined well!  You'll see what I mean as you read
on.

POURPOINT. s. m. Partie d'un habit d'homme qui couvre le corps depuis
le cou jusques vers la ceinture. Colet de pourpoint. manches de
pourpoint. basque de pourpoint. pourpoint de satin. boutonner un
pourpoint. aller en pourpoint. se mettre en pourpoint. pourpoint
taillad=E9. -- Dictionnaire de L'Acad=E9mie fran=E7aise, 1st Edition (1694)

Pourpointerie. s. f. L'art de faire des pourpoints. Il est vieux.
--Dictionnaire de L'Acad=E9mie fran=E7aise, 1st Edition (1694)

On a lark, I turn panse into a verb:
Panser un malade, voyez Penser. --Nicot, Thresor de la langue fran=E7aise (=
1606)

(Note there are no references between 1606 & 1762)

PANSER quand il se dit d'un cheval, signifie aussi, L'=E9triller, le
brosser, le nettoyer, & lui donner g=E9n=E9ralement tout ce qui lui est
n=E9cessaire. Ce Palefrenier emploie la plus grande partie de la matin=E9e
=E0 panser ses chevaux. Un cheval bien pans=E9 de la main. Un cheval bien
=E9trill=E9 est =E0 demi pans=E9. --Dictionnaire de L'Acad=E9mie fran=E7ais=
e, 4th
Edition (1762)

PANSER On dit figur=E9ment & populairement, qu'Un homme est bien pans=E9,
pour dire, qu'Il a bien mang=E9 & bien bu. --Dictionnaire de L'Acad=E9mie
fran=E7aise, 4th Edition (1762)


Then amusingly, i looked up Mignon just in case there were catty
comments... sadly not catty enough to suit me.

Le grand Mignon du Roy, Pullus Iouis. B. ex Festo.  -- from Thresor de
la langue fran=E7aise (1606) Jean Nicot

Mignonnement vestu, Laute vestitus, vel eleganter. -- from Thresor de
la langue fran=E7aise (1606) Jean Nicot

>I cannot find an exact translation of the above phrase, but the
>accompanying picture makes it clear that these are trunk hose, as
>they are generally called in England. Longer versions, to the knee,
>are called h-d-c- "a lodiers". (Sorry no accents - don't know how!)

Could this actually refer to britches that are quilted? or perhaps big
as a bedspread?

Lodier, substantif. m. acut. Est une espece de couverture de licts,
qui est farcie de coton, layne ou bourre, entre deux layes de satin,
taffetas, toile ou autre telle estoffe contrepoinct=E9e en divers
ouvrages =E9s deux endroits, et trop plus tenve que matelas, Lodix,
Duquel mot Latin il est tir=E9, Stragula punctis transfixa. --Nicot,
Thresor de la langue fran=E7aise (1606)
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
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--- Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:

> POURPOINT. s. m. Partie d'un habit d'homme qui
> couvre le corps depuis le cou jusques vers la
> ceinture. 
> 
> Pourpointerie. s. f. L'art de faire des pourpoints.
> --Dictionnaire de L'Académie française, 1st Edition
> (1694)
> 
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes

An ancestor of mine was referred to as a pourpointière
and also a master tailor of the city of Paris,
currently residing in the city of Quebec (en français,
naturellment, mais je ne me souviens pas)--this would
be somewhere in the 1650-1680 time frame, I believe. 
The notories of Quebec never lost their records to a
fire, so they have many interesting documents
surviving to the present day, and some of them are
webbed.
My sister is the geneologist; I could ask her for the
address if anyone is interested in looking at various
Quebecois notorized documents.

Ann in CT


 
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 02:20:07 +0000
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Status: RO


I loved it so much I saved it as one of my screen saver images...I hope that's ok...in fact...I think I'll do more screen saver images using more of your exquisite gorgeous work for my computer..

Gia
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> 

> Oh gosh, 
> Thanks a lot Joan........... 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Joan Jurancich" 
> To: "Historical Costume" 
> Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:10 PM 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup. 
> 
> 
> > At 09:10 AM 6/27/2007, you wrote: 
> > 
> >>The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to 
> >>share............. 
> >>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >>Leif og Bjarne Drews 
> >>www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
> >> 
> >>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> > 
> > Sofie looks lovely. You've made another masterpiece! 
> > 
> > 
> > Joan Jurancich 
> > joanmj@surewest.net 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> > 
> 
> 
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
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What a lovely picture! Beautiful work, Bjarne!
Monica

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 02:03:01 -0400
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Status: RO

Bjarne,

Magnificent!  Thank you for sharing!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". =A0- "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Jun 27, 2007, at 11:01 PM, monica spence wrote:

>
> What a lovely picture! Beautiful work, Bjarne!
> Monica
>
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> >The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to 
>share.............
> >http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm

Bjarne, as always your work is breathtakingly beautiful.

You should be justifiably proud.

Richard in MI

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Status: RO

Bjarne, let me add my voice to the chorus of praise.
Whoever took the picture should also be commended--the colors are =20
lovely, the composition is elegant, and the sprig of purple flowers =20
in her hand to echo the flowers in the foreground is the perfect =20
touch. Please pass along my compliments. It is a wonderful photograph =20=

of a lovely young woman in a splendid gown!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Jun 28, 2007, at 2:27 PM, R Harper wrote:

>> >The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to =20
>> share.............
>> >http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm
>
> Bjarne, as always your work is breathtakingly beautiful.
>
> You should be justifiably proud.
>
> Richard in MI
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Make every IM count. Download Messenger and join the i=92m Initiative =20=

> now. It=92s free. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?=20
> source=3DTAGHM_June07
>
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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	<D3F1991F-9B10-4386-9427-22B0DF0C9A19@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 21:09:53 +0200
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Status: RO

Dear Ruth, and all
Manny manny thanks for the phraises. I am happy with this dress, also 
because i know it is going to be used frequently and admired by manny. Ill 
pass along your words to Sofie.

Thanks again

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ruth Anne Baumgartner" <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.


Bjarne, let me add my voice to the chorus of praise.
Whoever took the picture should also be commended--the colors are
lovely, the composition is elegant, and the sprig of purple flowers
in her hand to echo the flowers in the foreground is the perfect
touch. Please pass along my compliments. It is a wonderful photograph
of a lovely young woman in a splendid gown!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Jun 28, 2007, at 2:27 PM, R Harper wrote:

>> >The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to
>> share.............
>> >http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm
>
> Bjarne, as always your work is breathtakingly beautiful.
>
> You should be justifiably proud.
>
> Richard in MI
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Make every IM count. Download Messenger and join the i’m Initiative  now. 
> It’s free. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/? source=TAGHM_June07
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne, 
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Status: RO

Bjarne, do you know of any German, Danish or Dutch food called Trachten?
I have heard this word to mean "to try" or "try to"
but several who are trying to translate a 1500s Germanic recipe book thinks
that is is a food of some sort.
Thank you,
De


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Status: RO

I am working on a civil war era gown.  Not my area of specialty 
(actually I don't have an area of specialty)  Anyway, I am making a 
corset and the dress I am going to make calls for boning in the 
bodice.  Was it typical for dresses to be boned when the wearer was 
also wearing a corset?  Anyone know?

Beverly

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War Era gown
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Status: RO

At 01:37 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:
>I am working on a civil war era gown.  Not my area of specialty 
>(actually I don't have an area of specialty)  Anyway, I am making a 
>corset and the dress I am going to make calls for boning in the 
>bodice.  Was it typical for dresses to be boned when the wearer was 
>also wearing a corset?  Anyone know?
>
>Beverly

Yes.  The boning in the dress is to keep the shape of the dress, it 
is not to act as a corset.  Boning is often used to strengthen the 
closing edges, whether for lacing or buttoning.  It also is used to 
keep the pointed front (where present) down, instead of having it 
roll up and look silly.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War Era gown
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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 6/28/2007 4:55:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
joanmj@surewest.net writes:

Yes.  The boning in the dress is to keep the shape of the dress,  it 
is not to act as a corset.  Boning is often used to strengthen the  
closing edges, whether for lacing or buttoning.  It also is used to  
keep the pointed front (where present) down, instead of having it 
roll  up and look silly.



****************
 
Indeed... though by 1864 you don't see many day dresses with a point or  that 
close CB. Evening is another matter. Usually day dresses have a straight  
belt-like waist band and/or an actual belt is worn. But in these examples [and  
in the pointed ones too], bones will be slipped into the double darts on each  
side of CF, and also CB or on the lower half of the SB seams, since some day  
dresses have no back seam. Again, evening is another  matter.



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From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,
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> Tracht is clothing, and generally clothing of a specific place (now
> meaning folk dress)  Trachtenbucher of the 16thC were books of dress
> of different lands. What is the context, and what is it in a Ducth,
> German or Danish book? It may mean to dress the dish;). I've never
> know it to mean to try.

In Dutch it means "to try" now (according to babelfish anyway), so the
context is going to be very important.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
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From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
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Status: RO

> The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to
> share.............
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm

Exquisite Bjarne:) I was a little busy when you had posted the
different ways you were going to trim the gown and I'm pleased you
decided on what you did.

I really should get back to my own red silk gown;) I need to wear is a
week tomorrow!

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,
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Status: RO

My big Cassell's gives Tracht as clothing, garb, costume, fashion-- 
also a litter (as of puppies), a yield (as of honey). The verb  
trachten is used in some phrases where it means "try" or "endeavor"  
or "aspire." "Tracht" as clothing must be formed from the verb  
tragen, which means to carry or wear.
Nothing to do with food. But I'll consult my friend Hannah, who is  
German and a scholar (and a speaker of colloquial German)--she might  
have some ideas.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Jun 28, 2007, at 6:29 PM, michaela de bruce wrote:

>> Tracht is clothing, and generally clothing of a specific place (now
>> meaning folk dress)  Trachtenbucher of the 16thC were books of dress
>> of different lands. What is the context, and what is it in a Ducth,
>> German or Danish book? It may mean to dress the dish;). I've never
>> know it to mean to try.
>
> In Dutch it means "to try" now (according to babelfish anyway), so the
> context is going to be very important.
>
> Michaela
> http://glittersweet.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 11:06:14 +1200
From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Latest project, red and black "German" renaissance
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Status: RO

Hello all,

As mentioned in May I was asked to join the Order of the Laurel in the
SCA and have been working on (and stressing over) my gown for the
ceremony.
I have at least got images and progress to show, but won't have much
more until after as time is pressing (I wear it a week tomorrow) and
there probably won't be time for uploading and editing of images. It
feels a little weird posting about an unfinished project;) I am
writing up my documentation at the same time so I should have that
after the event too.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hermann_tom_Ring_001.jpg
Inspiration portrait.

http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/tag/midwinter
For a reverse chronological order of everything so far,

Photos of progress so far:
http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/728885.html#cutid1
Kranz (wreath), skirt laid flat and sleeves in pieces, testing fit of bodice

http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/736609.html
Fit of bodice with guards and the pearling of my Haube (caul) and how
much I had to undo...

I'm worried about the underskirt and ruffs not being done at this
stage, but everything else is under control. Except my ceremony. Which
I need to organise later today.

Michaela (SCA Willemyne van Nymegen)
http://glittersweet.com
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 11:58:50 +1200
From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Latest project, red and black
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Status: RO

Hello all,

(Sorry if this goes through twice, it appears as if my first mail is
stuck in my sent folder in gmail)

As mentioned in May I was asked to join the Order of the Laurel in the
SCA and have been working on (and stressing over) my gown for the
ceremony.
I have at least got images and progress to show, but won't have much
more until after as time is pressing (I wear it a week tomorrow) and
there probably won't be time for uploading and editing of images. It
feels a little weird posting about an unfinished project;) I am
writing up my documentation at the same time so I should have that
after the event too.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hermann_tom_Ring_001.jpg
Inspiration portrait.

http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/tag/midwinter
For a reverse chronological order of everything so far,

Photos of progress so far:
http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/728885.html#cutid1
Kranz (wreath), skirt laid flat and sleeves in pieces, testing fit of bodice

http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/736609.html
Fit of bodice with guards and the pearling of my Haube (caul) and how
much I had to undo...

I'm worried about the underskirt and ruffs not being done at this
stage, but everything else is under control. Except my ceremony. Which
I need to organise later today.

Michaela (SCA Willemyne van Nymegen)
http://glittersweet.com
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 28 20:10:14 2007
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Subject: [h-cost] the baggy trousers & pants thing
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Status: RO

I know from past discussions how many of you on the list hate the whole  
baggy trousers showing the wearer's pants fashion, so thought you might  
appreciate what I saw on my way to the p.o. today.....
 
there was this chav bloke (burberry print cap, ellesse top, the works...)  on 
a pushbike way too small for him, so his knees were all hunched up, as per  
norm.  
 
on show was not just the waistband of his pants, but all of his  pants!  his 
jeans had clearly caught on the seat of the bike as he got on,  and he'd not 
noticed.
 
bit disconcerting to be walking behind him, but couldn't help  laughing.  
sure he thought I was a nutter!



   
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Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 10:28:03 +1200
From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,
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Status: RO

> Bjarne, do you know of any German, Danish or Dutch food called Trachten?
> I have heard this word to mean "to try" or "try to"
> but several who are trying to translate a 1500s Germanic recipe book thinks
> that is is a food of some sort.

Tracht is clothing, and generally clothing of a specific place (now
meaning folk dress)  Trachtenbucher of the 16thC were books of dress
of different lands. What is the context, and what is it in a Ducth,
German or Danish book? It may mean to dress the dish;). I've never
know it to mean to try.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 21:43:59 -0500
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Status: RO

In reference to rumpolt.

-----Original Message-----
> In Dutch it means "to try" now (according to babelfish anyway), so the
> context is going to be very important.

If it's Rumpolt (which I use quite often in experimenting with
vegetable dishes) it's a noun anyway, not a verb.

http://clem.mscd.edu/~grasse/GK_Rumpolt1.htm
Further down it's taken to mean food of many nations.

The page on the farmer's banquet suggests it means tradition.
http://clem.mscd.edu/%7Egrasse/GK_Banquets1.htm

I think it may have to do with dressing the dish. I didn't see
anything under the fish section that suggested the dishes were from
different nations. But I did see a sauce and other flavourings. There
was one recipe that was in a "turkish manner" but that was the only
one I saw specified. But then the entire book is not translated there
so there may be more regional dishes than there appears. Either way
fits in with the usage of the term in clothing.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
_______________________________________________


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Status: RO

Warmest greetings and congratulations! :-D When is your elevation going
to be?

You'll look stunning. :-)

Arlys,
one of your soon-to-be Laurel cousins in An Tir

On Fri, 29 Jun 2007 11:58:50 +1200 "michaela de bruce"
<michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com> writes:
> Hello all,
> 
> (Sorry if this goes through twice, it appears as if my first mail is
> stuck in my sent folder in gmail)
> 
> As mentioned in May I was asked to join the Order of the Laurel in 
> the
> SCA and have been working on (and stressing over) my gown for the
> ceremony.
> I have at least got images and progress to show, but won't have much
> more until after as time is pressing (I wear it a week tomorrow) and
> there probably won't be time for uploading and editing of images. It
> feels a little weird posting about an unfinished project;) I am
> writing up my documentation at the same time so I should have that
> after the event too.
> 
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hermann_tom_Ring_001.jpg
> Inspiration portrait.
> 
> http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/tag/midwinter
> For a reverse chronological order of everything so far,
> 
> Photos of progress so far:
> http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/728885.html#cutid1
> Kranz (wreath), skirt laid flat and sleeves in pieces, testing fit 
> of bodice
> 
> http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/736609.html
> Fit of bodice with guards and the pearling of my Haube (caul) and 
> how
> much I had to undo...
> 
> I'm worried about the underskirt and ruffs not being done at this
> stage, but everything else is under control. Except my ceremony. 
> Which
> I need to organise later today.
> 
> Michaela (SCA Willemyne van Nymegen)
> http://glittersweet.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: "michaela de bruce" <michaela.de.bruce@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,
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Status: RO

> In Dutch it means "to try" now (according to babelfish anyway), so the
> context is going to be very important.

If it's Rumpolt (which I use quite often in experimenting with
vegetable dishes) it's a noun anyway, not a verb.

http://clem.mscd.edu/~grasse/GK_Rumpolt1.htm
Further down it's taken to mean food of many nations.

The page on the farmer's banquet suggests it means tradition.
http://clem.mscd.edu/%7Egrasse/GK_Banquets1.htm

I think it may have to do with dressing the dish. I didn't see
anything under the fish section that suggested the dishes were from
different nations. But I did see a sauce and other flavourings. There
was one recipe that was in a "turkish manner" but that was the only
one I saw specified. But then the entire book is not translated there
so there may be more regional dishes than there appears. Either way
fits in with the usage of the term in clothing.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
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Status: RO

If someone has Digest # 305, could you please forward it to me?  It 
seems to have gotten lost in the ether.... Thanks!

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,
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Status: RO

Hi,
I am not that keen in german, even i did have german language in school, but 
could the word "trachten" meen that you kind of  "trim" your food? makes it 
look deliscious?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ruth Anne Baumgartner" <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 12:57 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,


> My big Cassell's gives Tracht as clothing, garb, costume, fashion-- 
> also a litter (as of puppies), a yield (as of honey). The verb  trachten 
> is used in some phrases where it means "try" or "endeavor"  or "aspire." 
> "Tracht" as clothing must be formed from the verb  tragen, which means to 
> carry or wear.
> Nothing to do with food. But I'll consult my friend Hannah, who is  German 
> and a scholar (and a speaker of colloquial German)--she might  have some 
> ideas.
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> On Jun 28, 2007, at 6:29 PM, michaela de bruce wrote:
>
>>> Tracht is clothing, and generally clothing of a specific place (now
>>> meaning folk dress)  Trachtenbucher of the 16thC were books of dress
>>> of different lands. What is the context, and what is it in a Ducth,
>>> German or Danish book? It may mean to dress the dish;). I've never
>>> know it to mean to try.
>>
>> In Dutch it means "to try" now (according to babelfish anyway), so the
>> context is going to be very important.
>>
>> Michaela
>> http://glittersweet.com
>> _______________________________________________
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> _______________________________________________
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On Fri, 29 Jun 2007, michaela de bruce wrote:
> > In Dutch it means "to try" now (according to babelfish anyway), so the
> > context is going to be very important.
>
> If it's Rumpolt (which I use quite often in experimenting with
> vegetable dishes) it's a noun anyway, not a verb.

This may be way off, but in Norwegian we use the verb "traktere", and
one of its meanings is to serve food and/or drink. Usually (nowadays,
anyway) it implies some kind of extra effort made in the serving, that
the person doing the traktering is aiming to please. Another meaning is
simply to treat/handle. The etymology is from norse "traktera" from the
latin "tractare", as far as I'm able to make out (from the best online
Norwegian dictionary;
http://www.dokpro.uio.no/perl/ordboksoek/ordbok.cgi?), the same
etymology as the English word "treat".

Ingrid

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Status: RO

I think in Dutch it would come closest to trakteren.
It's called that when a kid gives something nice to eat to the other 
kids in his or her class at his or her birthday.

It is giving something to someone without that person asking for it.



Ingrid G. Storrø wrote:
> On Fri, 29 Jun 2007, michaela de bruce wrote:
>   
>>> In Dutch it means "to try" now (according to babelfish anyway), so the
>>> context is going to be very important.
>>>       
>> If it's Rumpolt (which I use quite often in experimenting with
>> vegetable dishes) it's a noun anyway, not a verb.
>>     
>
> This may be way off, but in Norwegian we use the verb "traktere", and
> one of its meanings is to serve food and/or drink. Usually (nowadays,
> anyway) it implies some kind of extra effort made in the serving, that
> the person doing the traktering is aiming to please. Another meaning is
> simply to treat/handle. The etymology is from norse "traktera" from the
> latin "tractare", as far as I'm able to make out (from the best online
> Norwegian dictionary;
> http://www.dokpro.uio.no/perl/ordboksoek/ordbok.cgi?), the same
> etymology as the English word "treat".
>
> Ingrid
>
>   

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Status: RO

If it is more like German trachten = clothing it may be in Dutch 
dressing this would mean  a liquid to do over a salad...
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 04:37:41 -0500
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Status: RO

The "try to" or "endeaver" is sounding like what it is. Because I am ever so
rusty with the German and only tidbits of Norwegian, I did not trust my
translation of the word.
The phrase:
"Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu machen"
Thank you all for the help! :)
De

-----Original Message-----
On Fri, 29 Jun 2007, michaela de bruce wrote:
> > In Dutch it means "to try" now (according to babelfish anyway), so the
> > context is going to be very important.
>
> If it's Rumpolt (which I use quite often in experimenting with
> vegetable dishes) it's a noun anyway, not a verb.

This may be way off, but in Norwegian we use the verb "traktere", and
one of its meanings is to serve food and/or drink. Usually (nowadays,
anyway) it implies some kind of extra effort made in the serving, that
the person doing the traktering is aiming to please. Another meaning is
simply to treat/handle. The etymology is from norse "traktera" from the
latin "tractare", as far as I'm able to make out (from the best online
Norwegian dictionary;
http://www.dokpro.uio.no/perl/ordboksoek/ordbok.cgi?), the same
etymology as the English word "treat".

Ingrid


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Status: RO

Mmmm
I am not so sure.
Is this the sentence it is from?

"Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu machen"

I wish my English would be better.

If I translate it to Dutch I get this
Van ossen zijn 83 spijzen en .... te maken.

If Trachten means to try the sentence would be different 
Van ossen kun je 83 spijzen trachten te maken.

It looks more like something you can eat.



otsisto wrote:
> The "try to" or "endeaver" is sounding like what it is. Because I am ever so
> rusty with the German and only tidbits of Norwegian, I did not trust my
> translation of the word.
> The phrase:
> "Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu machen"
> Thank you all for the help! :)
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On Fri, 29 Jun 2007, michaela de bruce wrote:
>   
>>> In Dutch it means "to try" now (according to babelfish anyway), so the
>>> context is going to be very important.
>>>       
>> If it's Rumpolt (which I use quite often in experimenting with
>> vegetable dishes) it's a noun anyway, not a verb.
>>     
>
> This may be way off, but in Norwegian we use the verb "traktere", and
> one of its meanings is to serve food and/or drink. Usually (nowadays,
> anyway) it implies some kind of extra effort made in the serving, that
> the person doing the traktering is aiming to please. Another meaning is
> simply to treat/handle. The etymology is from norse "traktera" from the
> latin "tractare", as far as I'm able to make out (from the best online
> Norwegian dictionary;
> http://www.dokpro.uio.no/perl/ordboksoek/ordbok.cgi?), the same
> etymology as the English word "treat".
>
> Ingrid
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>   

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Status: RO

Hi, 

"trachten" means something like to strive or try to do something, "nach Essen trachten" is being in want of food, "jemandem nach dem Leben trachten" means wanting to kill someone.

However, in this context, "Trachten" is servings. "Eine Tracht" is the load one can carry (tragen) at a time from the kitchen to the table.
"Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu machen"
means from an ox there are eightythree dishes and servings to be made."
Also, "Tracht" is traditional folk costume.

Hope this helps,

Hanna



-------- Original-Nachricht --------
Datum: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 12:18:16 +0200
Von: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
An: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Betreff: Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,

> Mmmm
> I am not so sure.
> Is this the sentence it is from?
> 
> "Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu machen"
> 
> I wish my English would be better.
> 
> If I translate it to Dutch I get this
> Van ossen zijn 83 spijzen en .... te maken.
> 
> If Trachten means to try the sentence would be different 
> Van ossen kun je 83 spijzen trachten te maken.
> 
> It looks more like something you can eat.
> 
> 
> 
> otsisto wrote:
> > The "try to" or "endeaver" is sounding like what it is. Because I am
> ever so
> > rusty with the German and only tidbits of Norwegian, I did not trust my
> > translation of the word.
> > The phrase:
> > "Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu machen"
> > Thank you all for the help! :)
> > De
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > On Fri, 29 Jun 2007, michaela de bruce wrote:
> >   
> >>> In Dutch it means "to try" now (according to babelfish anyway), so the
> >>> context is going to be very important.
> >>>       
> >> If it's Rumpolt (which I use quite often in experimenting with
> >> vegetable dishes) it's a noun anyway, not a verb.
> >>     
> >
> > This may be way off, but in Norwegian we use the verb "traktere", and
> > one of its meanings is to serve food and/or drink. Usually (nowadays,
> > anyway) it implies some kind of extra effort made in the serving, that
> > the person doing the traktering is aiming to please. Another meaning is
> > simply to treat/handle. The etymology is from norse "traktera" from the
> > latin "tractare", as far as I'm able to make out (from the best online
> > Norwegian dictionary;
> > http://www.dokpro.uio.no/perl/ordboksoek/ordbok.cgi?), the same
> > etymology as the English word "treat".
> >
> > Ingrid
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >   
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,
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On Fri, 29 Jun 2007, otsisto wrote:
> The "try to" or "endeaver" is sounding like what it is. Because I am ever=
 so
> rusty with the German and only tidbits of Norwegian, I did not trust my
> translation of the word.
> The phrase:
> "Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu machen"

=46rom this context the word Trachten should be a noun; the sentence
translates roughly as "Eighty-tree types of food and <trachten> can be
made from the ox". Unfortunately my German isn't good enough to even
guess at the meaning withing the context, unless it's an archaic form of
Getr=E4nk used to refer to the broths that are mentioned in some of the
recipies... But that's a very long shot, of course. :) It certainly
doesn't seem to be costume related like the modern use of Tracht, unless
they assume that the hides would be used in dress later.

Ingrid

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I've asked my native-German-speaking mother who also studied old German
in grad school if she has any insight. But German capitalizes nouns, so
I agree with everyone who's said so far that in this context, "Trachten"
is definitely a noun....


Astrida

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Gorgeous costume! Where did you find
those metal leaves? Thanks.

~ M.


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Status: RO


 >> The phrase:
>> "Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu
machen"


Well, my German mother thinks Trachten is still clothing in this
context, as that's the term for folk clothing. Specifically for this
case, the leather pants that comprise part of the gear. This could then
literally be a reference to the use of the meat --and hide-- of the ox.
Hard to tell without more of the original quote...


Astrida
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Racy hats!
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 13:04:44 -0400
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How wonderful!  I love the buoyant sense of fun and creativity!

Thanks for sharing,
Melanie Schuessler



On Jun 30, 2007, at 10:28 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> http://tinyurl.com/2r6r57
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Those hats are fun!

(Between all of us, though, I think a hat like those needs hair put up 
to look best.  But maybe I'm a throwback.)

cv

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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Racy hats!
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I couldn't access the pictures because I had pop-ups blocked. If anyone else
is having problems, temporarily unblock your blocker and you'll be able to
find the pictures. WOW. They were worth the search! What fun!

Thanks for showing us.
LynnD


On 6/30/07, Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1198779424.7999df@thibault.org>
wrote:
>
> Those hats are fun!
>
> (Between all of us, though, I think a hat like those needs hair put up
> to look best.  But maybe I'm a throwback.)
>
> cv
>
> --
> Vandeverre's Emporium: for a subset of your Victorian Second Life needs!
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Status: RO

Ha ha...what fun! 
 
But I must say, a lot of hats were not rakishly tilted to the left, but  worn 
on the left side of their faces! The ashtray hat would've looked better on  
her head instead of her ear! And Ivanna Trumps hat was much better looking than 
 that jacket she was wearing ...yuck!



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From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Racy hats!
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Status: RO

When I use that link I get to MSNBC's general page with about 20 different
stories but am not seeing hats or anything fashion-focussed. Can you be
specific?

LynnD


On 6/30/07, Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
>
> How wonderful!  I love the buoyant sense of fun and creativity!
>
> Thanks for sharing,
> Melanie Schuessler
>
>
>
> On Jun 30, 2007, at 10:28 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:
>
> > http://tinyurl.com/2r6r57
> > _______________________________________________
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Wow!  Having seen the hats that showed up the Ky. Derby, I must say the
Brits really know how to do hats for the races.......There was nothing at
the Derby to compare to Ascot!


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: June 30, 2007 10:28 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Racy hats!

http://tinyurl.com/2r6r57
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Subject: [h-cost] Luttrell Psalter Period Query
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On behalf of a costuming colleague, as I don't know much about this period

"I have a query about 14th century hose. Some of the illustrations in
 >the Psalter show men wearing hose without shoes or boots. Can you
 >direct me to any information about this practice - or am I just
 >misinterpreting the images?"

Can anyone help - I will pass on information.

Also, can anyone remind me how one joins please - my colleague would 
like to join us.

Suzi

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